# Nissan Sentra 2014 1.6 cvt issue.



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

I've Nissan Sentra 2014 1.6 cvt 170k kms [105k miles] driven. I've had an issue with cvt while accelerating from full stop, a jerking at around 20kmph which feels like clutch is disengaged for a second and then suddenly reengaged . When I took it to nissan they advised cvt fluid flush &change and luckily the issue was resolved. Now the issue I'm facing is with a slightly increased rpm. Originally at 120kmph the rpm was 2k but now it goes up to 3k to 3.5k at the same speed. Before the cruise was silent at 120kmph now there is noticeable engine noise inside the cabin. The car was always serviced with nissan but now they are recommending cvt replacement. Any advise will be highly appreciated.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

ajipta said:


> I've Nissan Sentra 2014 1.6 cvt 170k kms [105k miles] driven. I've had an issue with cvt while accelerating from full stop, a jerking at around 20kmph which feels like clutch is disengaged for a second and then suddenly reengaged . When I took it to nissan they advised cvt fluid flush &change and luckily the issue was resolved. Now the issue I'm facing is with a slightly increased rpm. Originally at 120kmph the rpm was 2k but now it goes up to 3k to 3.5k at the same speed. Before the cruise was silent at 120kmph now there is noticeable engine noise inside the cabin. The car was always serviced with nissan but now they are recommending cvt replacement. Any advise will be highly appreciated.


If it went 100K+ on the original fluid then the dealer is probably right, your tranny is shot. The CVT on the '14 Sentra is a dual-range type with a planetary gear set for low and high range, it sounds like yours is stuck in low causing the elevated RPM.


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> If it went 100K+ on the original fluid then the dealer is probably right, your tranny is shot. The CVT on the '14 Sentra is a dual-range type with a planetary gear set for low and high range, it sounds like yours is stuck in low causing the elevated RPM.


Thanks for the reply. But I can feel the planetary gear shift at around 30mph. Also all the transmission fluid was changed earlier @60k miles.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Ah, that's different. Then the extra RPM may be from a "limp" condition that's limiting performance. Do you happen to have a copy of the code sheet? Hard to tell exactly what's going on without a complete readout.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sounds like the steel belt is slipping on the pulley subset, if you ask me. This usually starts with an issue of the TCM/valve body. The usual fix is to replace the CVT.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

smj999smj said:


> Sounds like the steel belt is slipping on the pulley subset, if you ask me. This usually starts with an issue of the TCM/valve body. The usual fix is to replace the CVT.


It'll have a P1F70 in the TCM if the belt is running away, a '14 should have judder diagnostics. OP never got back to us with codes.


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Ah, that's different. Then the extra RPM may be from a "limp" condition that's limiting performance. Do you happen to have a copy of the code sheet? Hard to tell exactly what's going on without a complete readout.


Hi. Took it to a garage to read the codes but all clean. The mechanic suggests this could be mechanical. He checked all the fluids and topped up. suggest to drive until the CVT gives up and then replace. However after fluid topup situation improved a little. Now at 120kmph rpm stays at 3k. No loud roar of engine. Not going beyond 3k like earlier. Originally it was at 2k though.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

ajipta said:


> Hi. Took it to a garage to read the codes but all clean. The mechanic suggests this could be mechanical. He checked all the fluids and topped up. suggest to drive until the CVT gives up and then replace. However after fluid topup situation improved a little. Now at 120kmph rpm stays at 3k. No loud roar of engine. Not going beyond 3k like earlier. Originally it was at 2k though.


The only thing "mechanical" that could cause that is belt-slip, as Smj said. We can't get documentation on overseas models here in the 'States, so I suppose it's possible your TCM doesn't have diagnostics. If it's slipping that badly the fluid won't help for long.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

I have a 2014 Rouge, US build, all wheel drive. It has 270k KMs on it. After driving for 30 minutes, it jerks when you take off. I do not know if it has been flushed or not, but the scan code says it shudders. What do you guys think I should do? I called nissan, they said it is the CVT and needs a replace. Should I do a service to see if that goes away or is it a waste of money? I have found a tranny for 1K CAD and abut $700 labor from a mechanic friend to swab it. Thanks for any suggestions or comments.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

RostyKamal said:


> I have a 2014 Rouge, US build, all wheel drive. It has 270k KMs on it. After driving for 30 minutes, it jerks when you take off. I do not know if it has been flushed or not, but the scan code says it shudders. What do you guys think I should do? I called nissan, they said it is the CVT and needs a replace. Should I do a service to see if that goes away or is it a waste of money? I have found a tranny for 1K CAD and abut $700 labor from a mechanic friend to swab it. Thanks for any suggestions or comments.


A friend said it's the tranny belt that starches when it gets hot. A mechanic said it could be the valve body. So everyone says a different thing. They do not rebuild them here which is sad! They mostly replace. Where I come from originally, we repair them cheap in Iraq as labor is super cheap. 

I wonder if a flush would help or not?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If the code is a P1F71 then very often a fluid swap will help. If it's a P1F70 then probably not, that usually means belt damage. The belts don't "stretch" by the way, what happens is they start "skidding" on the pulleys. The pulleys are much harder material than the belt, so the belt starts to wear and ridge.

There's nothing wrong with a used tranny, but get the TCM from the same donor car along with it. You'll save yourself a whole lot of reprogramming and re-learning.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> If the code is a P1F71 then very often a fluid swap will help. If it's a P1F70 then probably not, that usually means belt damage. The belts don't "stretch" by the way, what happens is they start "skidding" on the pulleys. The pulleys are much harder material than the belt, so the belt starts to wear and ridge.
> 
> There's nothing wrong with a used tranny, but get the TCM from the same donor car along with it. You'll save yourself a whole lot of reprogramming and re-learning.


Thank you so much for your comment, I will do that and see how it goes! I wonder why is it better when I give a little more gas? It even dose not shudder sometimes with extra gas ?


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

ajipta said:


> I've Nissan Sentra 2014 1.6 cvt 170k kms [105k miles] driven. I've had an issue with cvt while accelerating from full stop, a jerking at around 20kmph which feels like clutch is disengaged for a second and then suddenly reengaged . When I took it to nissan they advised cvt fluid flush &change and luckily the issue was resolved. Now the issue I'm facing is with a slightly increased rpm. Originally at 120kmph the rpm was 2k but now it goes up to 3k to 3.5k at the same speed. Before the cruise was silent at 120kmph now there is noticeable engine noise inside the cabin. The car was always serviced with nissan but now they are recommending cvt replacement. Any advise will be highly appreciated.


Update 
I've found the app CVTZ50 from playstore which is cvt specific app and bought OBD2 adapter Vgate icar pro to read the CVT statistics. To my surprise, I've found that the CVT fluid deterioration date wasn't reset by the Authorized service center and it was @ 160000. Since I've driven only 7k Kms after the CVT fluid flush/ swap this number was too high for relatively new fluid. Therefore I've decided a bit of adventure and reset the CVT fluid deterioration date using the app. And Hey guys, the rpm back to normal. Test driven for 5km @ 120k. And rpm was steady @ 2k. Will drive for another week and will keep you updated.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

ajipta said:


> Update
> I've found the app CVTZ50 from playstore which is cvt specific app and bought OBD2 adapter Vgate icar pro to read the CVT statistics. To my surprise, I've found that the CVT fluid deterioration date wasn't reset by the Authorized service center and it was @ 160000. Since I've driven only 7k Kms after the CVT fluid flush/ swap this number was too high for relatively new fluid. Therefore I've decided a bit of adventure and reset the CVT fluid deterioration date using the app. And Hey guys, the rpm back to normal. Test driven for 5km @ 120k. And rpm was steady @ 2k. Will drive for another week and will keep you updated.


how can I rest mine too? Thanks


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

RostyKamal said:


> how can I rest mine too? Thanks


Hi, you should reset the deterioration date only after CVT fluid change. Assuming that you have Elm327 OBD2 interface based on PIC18F25K80 chip ,and CVTZ50 app installed on your phone, follow the below instructions to reset the deterioration date.

*Reading and resetting CVT Fluid Deterioration counter*
Press *Read/Clear CVTF Deterioration* button to read deterioration data.
Nissan recommends to change CVT fluid if deterioration exceeded 210000 points. Note that on majority of the vehicles the deterioration counter takes into account CVT operation only in high temperature conditions (the counter increases only when CVT temperature is above 90°C). There might be other reasons to replace CVT fluid – they shall be considered even if deterioration counter is significantly below the threshold.
After replacing CVT fluid, CVTF Deterioration data should be cleared. To perform deterioration data erasing, hold *Read/Clear CVTF Deterioration* button and confirm the operation by selecting *YES* in confirmation dialog.

copied from CVTz50 - CVT diagnostics with ELM327


----------



## Akhil Gupta (Sep 11, 2021)

I have a 2018 Rouge, US build, all wheel drive. It has 270k KMs on it. After driving for 30 minutes, it jerks when you take off. I do not know if it has been flushed or not, but the scan code says it shudders. What do you guys think I should do? I called nissan, they said it is the CVT and needs a replace. Should I do a service to see if that goes away or is it a waste of money? I have found a tranny for 1K CAD and abut $700 labor from a mechanic friend to swab it. Thanks for any suggestions or comments.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

That’s exactly what I am dealing with. The flush may help but I still have the jerks.
The hotter the day is, the worse mine gets.

I sometimes suspect fuel pump, crankshaft /camshaft sensors, vacuum leaking: but I have no codes.

it has the judder code p17f2
Went away with a drain and refill


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

P17F2 points to mechanical issue. See attached flow chart which suggests to replace the CVT. I would recommend to drive till it dies ,then repair or replace. Fresh fluid may improve the situation a bit but recommended to be done by experienced professionals.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

That’s exactly what I am dealing with. The flush may help but I still have the jerks.
The hotter the day is, the worse mine gets.

I sometimes suspect fuel pump, crankshaft /camshaft sensors, vacuum leaking: but I have no codes.

it has the judder code


ajipta said:


> P17F2 points to mechanical issue. See attached flow chart which suggests to replace the CVT. I would recommend to drive till it dies ,then repair or replace. Fresh fluid may improve the situation a bit but recommended to be done by experienced professionals.


is that for rouge too?
I think I’ve seen the chart and it doesn’t indicate rouge


----------



## ajipta (Feb 16, 2021)

RostyKamal said:


> That’s exactly what I am dealing with. The flush may help but I still have the jerks.
> The hotter the day is, the worse mine gets.
> 
> I sometimes suspect fuel pump, crankshaft /camshaft sensors, vacuum leaking: but I have no codes.
> ...


The screen shot was from a nissan sentra recall document . But the error codes applicable to all Jatco CVT used in nissan.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

ajipta said:


> The screen shot was from a nissan sentra recall document . But the error codes applicable to all Jatco CVT used in nissan.


@rogoman @VStar650CL 

you guys think is it the same code for all CVTs?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> you guys think is it the same code for all CVTs?


No, the Sentra and Versa have some significant differences when dealing with judder due to the dual-range planetary setup. Here's the work flow for a similar bulletin for '13~'17 Alties and '14~'16 Rogues. Notice that P17F2 isn't even mentioned, it almost never happens on the RE0F10 trannies.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

Do you think the jerk goes away by TC replacement? How about the noise that I have when on P or N? 
I am trying to fix it anyways


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> Do you think the jerk goes away by TC replacement? How about the noise that I have when on P or N?


That would be my best guess, and a bad sprag clutch in the TC could certainly make noise when unloaded (P or N). If you want to make certain, put a stethoscope on the tranny and see if the noise is loudest at the bellhousing. Like I said, no one I know has ever seen a P17F2 by itself on an RE0F10, so to some extent the advice I'm giving you is a judgment call. What you have is not an "ordinary" circumstance.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> That would be my best guess, and a bad sprag clutch in the TC could certainly make noise when unloaded (P or N). If you want to make certain, put a stethoscope on the tranny and see if the noise is loudest at the bellhousing. Like I said, no one I know has ever seen a P17F2 by itself on an RE0F10, so to some extent the advice I'm giving you is a judgment call. What you have is not an "ordinary" circumstance.


when that TC gonna kill the tranny?
Should I take it to road trips?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Unless the sprag clutch breaks outright, it shouldn't hurt anything. But like I keep saying, this is a unique situation that no one I know has seen before. So how long it might last in that condition is a total guess, yours is as good as mine.


----------



## H.L. Wilburn (Nov 23, 2021)

According to the complaint, the vehicle is one of the thousands of 2014 Sentra models that suffer from transmission problems and defects in the CVT. Nissan CVT issues are common among Nissan vehicles. Try to Autel Maxisys Elite scanner. This scanner might be helpful for you.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

hi guys, 
my nissan rouge is not jerking now at all, even if i drive long. did that have to do with the cooler filter or what? dose the weather matter? it's really cold here but the car temperature is the same in summer and winter, as it was jerking summer time when was hot. 
or could it be something else caused the that jerk not the tranny?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Engine temp and CVT temp will differ in cold weather even when fully warmed up. The only way to really track that is directly, using CVTz50 or some other software that can read the temperature from the TCM. But it wouldn't surprise me if the cold weather is improving your CVT's behavior. With CVT's, heat is still the enemy regardless of any other factors.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Engine temp and CVT temp will differ in cold weather even when fully warmed up. The only way to really track that is directly, using CVTz50 or some other software that can read the temperature from the TCM. But it wouldn't surprise me if the cold weather is improving your CVT's behavior. With CVT's, heat is still the enemy regardless of any other factors.


I had the spark plugs replaced today along with the oil change and air filter. The plugs were bad and one of them was not coming out, stack for some reason and they were DENSO on it. I got a good NGK (94702) one for it. 

My mechanic said that there is a leak on my right side axle shaft seal, he said it is not a major leak, it is only oily. 
Would that be ok to drive on? Why that seal makes that issue? what brand is good to order if i wanna replace it? Any other things should be replaced with it? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The shaft seal is basically the only thing keeping the CVT fluid from flowing out around the axle, so a major leak has to be fixed immediately. If it's just a drip or two then I wouldn't worry too much, CVT's are much more tolerant of low fluid than of being over-filled. I'd stick with the OE Nissan seal when you get it repaired. So long as the axle is in good shape there's nothing else that needs to be replaced with it, just topping the fluid up after repair. On the other hand, since the axle needs to come out, anything like cracked CV boots or a front brake job can be addressed conveniently while it's apart.

BTW, Denso provides plenty of OE plugs for various Nissan models, so there's nothing wrong with them. They do tend to have softer plating than NGK's so they don't last as long, but they also burn hotter because of it and are more resistant to fouling. So it's a trade-off. I use Densos in our two Altima QR25's because the plugs are easy to get at and changing them is no big deal, and I prefer the performance. If they were VQ 6-cyl's I'd definitely opt for NGK's and longer life, because the back bank plugs are such a PITA to change.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The shaft seal is basically the only thing keeping the CVT fluid from flowing out around the axle, so a major leak has to be fixed immediately. If it's just a drip or two then I wouldn't worry too much, CVT's are much more tolerant of low fluid than of being over-filled. I'd stick with the OE Nissan seal when you get it repaired. So long as the axle is in good shape there's nothing else that needs to be replaced with it, just topping the fluid up after repair. On the other hand, since the axle needs to come out, anything like cracked CV boots or a front brake job can be addressed conveniently while it's apart.
> 
> BTW, Denso provides plenty of OE plugs for various Nissan models, so there's nothing wrong with them. They do tend to have softer plating than NGK's so they don't last as long, but they also burn hotter because of it and are more resistant to fouling. So it's a trade-off. I use Densos in our two Altima QR25's because the plugs are easy to get at and changing them is no big deal, and I prefer the performance. If they were VQ 6-cyl's I'd definitely opt for NGK's and longer life, because the back bank plugs are such a PITA to change.


Thanks for your replies as always. 

I took to a mechanic again to see the leak and take 2nd opinion. Yes, it leaks and it's the seal, i called the dealer, they have it and it's cheap thankfully.

But, they found those issues: 
Ball joins, when you move the tires with hand, there is a gap. my mechanic said it's the ball joins. but when people replace them, they go with the whole lower control arm, is that true? What should i do here? they are expensive a bit. what aftermarket brand is good? 

The struts are broken he said, should i replace the whole assembly or what? Moog or Gabriel brands are good i see online? 

THe rack and pinion boots show broken, what should i do? can it be replaced? is the boots only or inside stuff? I do not know...
I just see the parts cost me 1K so i needed some opinions here. 

thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sounds like a lot of your rubber parts are degraded, which has to be your driving conditions, salt, acid rain, lots of dirt, etc. Once you get all this stuff straightened out, it's a good idea to spray WD40 on all your rubber stuff once or twice a year to wash off the crud and keep the rubber pliable.



RostyKamal said:


> Ball joins, when you move the tires with hand, there is a gap. my mechanic said it's the ball joins. but when people replace them, they go with the whole lower control arm, is that true? What should i do here? they are expensive a bit. what aftermarket brand is good?


Yes, you replace the whole arm. Bad ball joints are very dangerous, it's something you need to take care of immediately. There's nothing wrong with any reputable aftermarket brand.



RostyKamal said:


> The struts are broken he said, should i replace the whole assembly or what? Moog or Gabriel brands are good i see online?


Struts are easy to double-check yourself, and they usually last at least 100K. Don't know what your mileage is, but if you don't see mechanical damage and there isn't visible oil around the piston seal, the guy is giving you a hand job. Of course, if you're near or over 100K you might want to replace them anyway while the other work is being done. We don't deal much with aftermarket at the dealership, when we do it's usually KYB and we don't get complaints about those. I won't comment on what else is good, maybe some other folks can chime in with broader knowledge.



RostyKamal said:


> THe rack and pinion boots show broken, what should i do? can it be replaced? is the boots only or inside stuff? I do not know...


The rack boots are replaceable separately. Your power steering is in the steering column, so there are no worries about them being burst from a bad shaft seal. It's not a big job but you'll need a wheel alignment afterward, the outer tie-rod ends need to come off to replace the boots.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Sounds like a lot of your rubber parts are degraded, which has to be your driving conditions, salt, acid rain, lots of dirt, etc. Once you get all this stuff straightened out, it's a good idea to spray WD40 on all your rubber stuff once or twice a year to wash off the crud and keep the rubber pliable.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes, our weather is extremely cold and i have no garage. I am sure the cold made those issues to come, i never had those with nissans in wormer weathers. Canada's weather is sucks haha


I will replace the lower control arms then, i will take your advise, thanks.

The shocks seem to work fine but their boots are off and i see no leak though.

One more thing that concerns me: it is not long a go that I did a flush of the tranny fluid, but the leak shows a very dark color fluid, why had it gone that bad too soon? Is that a sign of having a bad clutch inside of the CVT? is it the aftermarket fluid that degraded that soon? Any ideas why? It is not being abused nor long ago changed, even less than 10K. 


I will update you here, i am getting tired honestly but every car is like that so no option but fixing


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> One more thing that concerns me: it is not long a go that I did a flush of the tranny fluid, but the leak shows a very dark color fluid, why had it gone that bad too soon? Is that a sign of having a bad clutch inside of the CVT? is it the aftermarket fluid that degraded that soon? Any ideas why? It is not being abused nor long ago changed, even less than 10K.


Once fluid gets outside the tranny, you can't really tell anything from the color. Leaked fluid mixes with road grit, axle grease, case oxidation, and all manner of other stuff.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Once fluid gets outside the tranny, you can't really tell anything from the color. Leaked fluid mixes with road grit, axle grease, case oxidation, and all manner of other stuff.



You are right but we have snow everywhere and no dust at all here now. I will check when replacing the seal


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Once fluid gets outside the tranny, you can't really tell anything from the color. Leaked fluid mixes with road grit, axle grease, case oxidation, and all manner of other stuff.



I want to share a thing with you; my nissan rouge has started acting funny this week as our temperature came to positive. We were in cold for the winter, so here i see that the CVT dose not like the hot weather. 

Now, could that be the volve body? the fluid is good, the magnets did not show any small parts when i changed the fluid. 

Why do I hear the buzzing noise? what noise level is normal and what is not? Why do I have to push gas more to go and the engine noise goes higher. I know that noise is not normal, there is something not coordinating between the two right.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> Why do I hear the buzzing noise? what noise level is normal and what is not? Why do I have to push gas more to go and the engine noise goes higher. I know that noise is not normal, there is something not coordinating between the two right.


We know from earlier that your Torque Converter has some sort of issue. The sprag clutches are a rotating assembly and they'll definitely get buzzy when they're failing, and usually louder as the fluid thins out with heat. I dunno what else to tell you, except that a simple fluid change wasn't likely to fix anything forever.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> We know from earlier that your Torque Converter has some sort of issue. The sprag clutches are a rotating assembly and they'll definitely get buzzy when they're failing, and usually louder as the fluid thins out with heat. I dunno what else to tell you, except that a simple fluid change wasn't likely to fix anything forever.



you are right and I am getting to the point that i should have changed the TC or the whole tranny. 

Another questions, what if it's the actual clutches not the TC? how you can tell that?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The only clutch in your rig besides the TC is the forward reverse clutch, and those never go bad (at least I've never seen one). Most CVT's don't have any other clutches, the belt and pulleys do all the work. Only the Sentra/Versa 2-speeds have extra clutches because of the planetary gears, but they're basically modern Power Glides (LOL). So we're back to what I said originally, you don't have judder or line pressure codes so the TC is causing your whole problem. Bad TC's are a rare failure mode, but they do happen.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The only clutch in your rig besides the TC is the forward reverse clutch, and those never go bad (at least I've never seen one). Most CVT's don't have any other clutches, the belt and pulleys do all the work. Only the Sentra/Versa 2-speeds have extra clutches because of the planetary gears, but they're basically modern Power Glides (LOL). So we're back to what I said originally, you don't have judder or line pressure codes so the TC is causing your whole problem. Bad TC's are a rare failure mode, but they do happen.



ok, i got the seal, ball joins, struts, and bar links. i will order a used transmission for 1K with 40K kms on it. 

any suggestions in the processes? would it need a reprogramming if replaced without having the TCM on? how much that would cost usually and can a regular shop do that? 

should I get the AMSOIL or OEM fluid? I know it takes around 5 LT when drain and refill so when putting the new one, that would be done on it. 

thanks again


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> any suggestions in the processes? would it need a reprogramming if replaced without having the TCM on? how much that would cost usually and can a regular shop do that?


Yes, if you can't get the donor TCM then the IP Char's will need to be read and loaded to the TCM. Whether a regular shop can do it depends on how good their shop scanner is.



RostyKamal said:


> should I get the AMSOIL or OEM fluid? I know it takes around 5 LT when drain and refill so when putting the new one, that would be done on it.


They usually take a bit under 4L on a D&F, but you'll want to have 5 on hand. My customers have had zero issues with AMSoil or Eneos, and of course both are way cheaper than NS-3. I have no qualms about recommending either one.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yes, if you can't get the donor TCM then the IP Char's will need to be read and loaded to the TCM. Whether a regular shop can do it depends on how good their shop scanner is.
> 
> 
> 
> They usually take a bit under 4L on a D&F, but you'll want to have 5 on hand. My customers have had zero issues with AMSoil or Eneos, and of course both are way cheaper than NS-3. I have no qualms about recommending either one.




one more thing, I called Nissan, they said that if i wanna check the tranny to make sure what is wrong, they charge about 180$

Now, i watched a video of a guy, he says all problems are from the fluid, get the OEM and change it, it will go away. 

what if mine has that problem? 

I am paranoid and have no peace of mind. I do not wanna spend $ without fixing it. replacing it also is a risk as what if it's the fluid that makes it bad. 

If it is the TC, why judder/shudder went away since I changed the fluid and filters? 

The only reason that I am frustrated about my car is it had 2 incidents were it did not take off quick when i put my feet on the pedal. 

The noise that comes from the left side of the hood which is the tranny side if buzzing/gezzzing noice, i do not know how to describe it honestly. 


a used Tranny with 42k kms on it is 1K CAD, plus the fluid 200 and labor. 

if i get only the TC, it's the same labor and fluid but i do not know if i would fix it or not? 

I need an advise or suggestion, i am lost and not trusting mechanics here in my city!


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> one more thing, I called Nissan, they said that if i wanna check the tranny to make sure what is wrong, they charge about 180$


You can't ask them to yank the pan and VB and inspect the belts for free. Sounds like they're charging you 1~1.5 hours and that's fair. But that's why you're _much_ better off getting the donor TCM along with the donor tranny. The codes in the TCM, if any, will tell you if the trans has problems just by hooking it up to your car and reading it. Popping the pan for inspection will still be a good idea, but you can avoid taking down the VB and using a borescope.



RostyKamal said:


> If it is the TC, why judder/shudder went away since I changed the fluid and filters?


The TC's job is to slip, allowing the engine to keep running at idle and letting it rev into the powerband when you accelerate. If it isn't slipping _properly_, you can get behavior that's a lot like judder.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You can't ask them to yank the pan and VB and inspect the belts for free. Sounds like they're charging you 1~1.5 hours and that's fair. But that's why you're _much_ better off getting the donor TCM along with the donor tranny. The codes in the TCM, if any, will tell you if the trans has problems just by hooking it up to your car and reading it. Popping the pan for inspection will still be a good idea, but you can avoid taking down the VB and using a borescope.
> 
> 
> 
> The TC's job is to slip, allowing the engine to keep running at idle and letting it rev into the powerband when you accelerate. If it isn't slipping _properly_, you can get behavior that's a lot like judder.



I will ask if they can check it before taking it off to see if has codes. 


what is VB by the way/ 

thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

VB = Valve Body. On CVT's it has to be removed in order to stick a borescope in for belt inspection.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You can't ask them to yank the pan and VB and inspect the belts for free. Sounds like they're charging you 1~1.5 hours and that's fair. But that's why you're _much_ better off getting the donor TCM along with the donor tranny. The codes in the TCM, if any, will tell you if the trans has problems just by hooking it up to your car and reading it. Popping the pan for inspection will still be a good idea, but you can avoid taking down the VB and using a borescope.
> 
> 
> 
> The TC's job is to slip, allowing the engine to keep running at idle and letting it rev into the powerband when you accelerate. If it isn't slipping _properly_, you can get behavior that's a lot like judder.




if you are sure that there are no codes, still need the TCM? I have found another rogue with 32K kms on it in BC for 1300 CAD. The seller sent me pics of the car, runs and drives good as he says, the cosmetic stuff made it a write off. so the tranny comes from a 2016 one. 

Is that something a must you do after the swab to reprogram the tranny? 
Should I just buy 5 litters of fluid to do fill it when swabbing or more? any other filters or gaskets to buy so I can be ready for my mechanic ? 

thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> Is that something a must you do after the swab to reprogram the tranny?


Yes, the TCM needs to be reflashed and then loaded with the IP Char data for the replacement tranny. That's the other reason getting the TCM is desirable, it lets you skip all that.



RostyKamal said:


> Should I just buy 5 litters of fluid to do fill it when swabbing or more? any other filters or gaskets to buy so I can be ready for my mechanic ?


Dropping the pan, they usually need about 4.5~5. More like 3.5~4 for a typical D&F. Nissan doesn't recommend changing either of the filters on a healthy trans, and I agree with that.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yes, the TCM needs to be reflashed and then loaded with the IP Char data for the replacement tranny. That's the other reason getting the TCM is desirable, it lets you skip all that.
> 
> after the swab, If i drive it to the dealer from my mechanic shop in order to do the reprogramming at the dealer, would that be bad or cause any issues?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> after the swab, If i drive it to the dealer from my mechanic shop in order to do the reprogramming at the dealer, would that be bad or cause any issues?


No, you really don't want to do that. If the IP Char for one of the solenoids is way off, you could definitely hurt something. Towing it is a better idea.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> No, you really don't want to do that. If the IP Char for one of the solenoids is way off, you could definitely hurt something. Towing it is a better idea.



I will do that for sure.

One more questions; what year to what year they are compatible? 2014 to what year can take the same transmission? 

thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

For AWD they're the same for all gen2 model years ('14~'20). For FWD there seems to have been an internal change for '18~'20 because the part number is different. That shouldn't make any difference if you're swapping the TCM, but might if you aren't.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> For AWD they're the same for all gen2 model years ('14~'20). For FWD there seems to have been an internal change for '18~'20 because the part number is different. That shouldn't make any difference if you're swapping the TCM, but might if you aren't.



Any differences between 2014 and 2019 or 2020 AWD? how come they are exactly the same and no improvements have been made to make it better? 
I am asking that because I can get a newer year CVT from a used one than 2014. Plus, someone said the newer the better, how true is it if they 2014-2020 are all the same? 



Thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

RostyKamal said:


> Any differences between 2014 and 2019 or 2020 AWD? how come they are exactly the same and no improvements have been made to make it better?


The AWD shows the same part number for all model years from '14~'20. Newer probably is better, but only because it's likely to have lower miles.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The AWD shows the same part number for all model years from '14~'20. Newer probably is better, but only because it's likely to have lower miles.



thanks for your feedback as always,

i also did a tune up, the car still consumes too much gas. When I get a trip report, it is more than double, why could that be? see the pics here 

I also want to have my own code scanner for the car, especially the CVT, CVTz50 dose not have ios app. any other you recommend that can tell about CVT?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That slippy Torque Converter is probably killing your mileage. If it can't lock up or isn't generating proper hydraulic resistance, the engine will always spin a little faster than it needs to. 

Can't help you with iOS, nobody in my circle who has a Nissan also uses an iPhone. I know there are some decent packages out there, but I'm not the right guy to tell you what they are. Maybe some other folks here can chime in.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

I am able to find a transmission for $1200 CAD coming with the TCM, most places sell it or do not wanna provide that with it. The tranny comes from a 2016 rogue with 42K kms on it.

I saw a video that someone recalibrates the cvt without going to the dealer, would that be possible for my rogue 2014 if I do not change the TCM? the TCM is about 150$ extra, the seller dose not wanna give it with the tranny as it is sold separate part. 

based on your suggestion, the TCM makes it easier as I will not have to go to the dealer to do the reprogramming or leaning.
Plz, pray that i can get that!


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

one questions: if the TCM comes with the used tranny, i do not need to reprogram but what about other parts and circuits of the car that need to reprogram with the tcm ? any issues with that? the TCM is new to the parts on the car except the transmission that comes with.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Unless the tranny is from a different model, the TCM should play nice with the other controllers even if the firmware is earlier or later. There are only a few TCM combinations from other models that won't work. In your case, Altima into Rogue is the only no-go I'm aware of.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Unless the tranny is from a different model, the TCM should play nice with the other controllers even if the firmware is earlier or later. There are only a few TCM combinations from other models that won't work. In your case, Altima into Rogue is the only no-go I'm aware of.


thanks, i will do that and update you on the outcomes. 

always appreciate your comments and suggestions.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Unless the tranny is from a different model, the TCM should play nice with the other controllers even if the firmware is earlier or later. There are only a few TCM combinations from other models that won't work. In your case, Altima into Rogue is the only no-go I'm aware of.



Hi there, 

my used tranny arrived today, i went to the dealer and got 5 quarters of NS3. I had a long discussion with the dealer guy, he was not helping much and did not want to disclose everything they do or have! 

when i asked him to see if i need to reprogram even if i have the TCM he said yes because there may be updates on the software. I told him that my forum folks say no it dose not need it. 

he also told me that they have machines and stuff to completely drain a tranny when flushing. so they do not do only a drain refill. he was saying that I should get 9 quarters of the fluid, but i said no i only add to the used tranny so i only got 5 of them. 

I also asked about the code i have (
P17F2), he left and talked to the services. he said that it could only need a reprogramming, but for that they have to do a check on the VB and then determine what further steps are. I said no, thanks  the $ i spend on your steps, i would get it replaced as it has too many miles on it. He even went through the car history, it got all the records and the Software update was done on it in 2016. so I do not think there is a problem on that. 

next monday, i will drop it at the mechanic to get it done. i will update you!


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

They have removed my tranny, now they say i need a rack and pinion on my car. Do they leak? what goes bad on them? any suggestions please? thanks


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

RostyKamal said:


> They have removed my tranny, now they say i need a rack and pinion on my car. Do they leak? what goes bad on them? any suggestions please? thanks


One thing at a time. Get your tranny situation fixed first. The rack has seals at each end that after so many years will eventually start developing leaks. If the fluid is not gushing out, you can replace the rack at some later point.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

rogoman said:


> One thing at a time. Get your tranny situation fixed first. The rack has seals at each end that after so many years will eventually start developing leaks. If the fluid is not gushing out, you can replace the rack at some later point.



Thanks for your suggestion, my mechanic called and requested me to get one tomorrow as the rack is off the car now for the tranny replacement. I have called a used part store and they have a used one for $200 CAD. 
My mechanic said it is better to replace it now as its in our hands. 

i know the power steering of my rogue is electric, that means it does not have a fluid, where that leak comes from that you and my mechanic talk bout? it's a two side thing with boots, no fluid like stuff on it as i see.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Your p/s is a motor on the steering column. The racks don't leak anything but grease, and that's a very rare failure. If it has bad accordion boots, those can be replaced without replacing the rack. I'd ask him to show you what's bad, he may have damaged it dropping the subframe.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Your p/s is a motor on the steering column. The racks don't leak anything but grease, and that's a very rare failure. If it has bad accordion boots, those can be replaced without replacing the rack. I'd ask him to show you what's bad, he may have damaged it dropping the subframe.



I got a used one for him just in case, he said the same, he will try to replace the boots if all goes well, then i will return the bought one. Thanks for your feedback, always accurate !


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Your p/s is a motor on the steering column. The racks don't leak anything but grease, and that's a very rare failure. If it has bad accordion boots, those can be replaced without replacing the rack. I'd ask him to show you what's bad, he may have damaged it dropping the subframe.



This car has many parts that need to be replaced, the trany mount which is hydraulic needs to be replaced. The rack and pinion was gone too, so he put the one used i got on it.


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

Yes, the car RPM is not going high crazy like it used to on the new used tranny, even the dash shows exact gas milage where it says Best and current. I replaced the rack and pinion, ball joins, a shaft seal on transfer case right side, links, struts, the transmission (bought with TCM so no shifting issues and do not need reprogram, thanks for the advise dear VStar650CL. We also found the transmission mount which is hydraulic to be leaking, the part is special so we left it for now, i have ordered one on Rockauto for 220$. the dealers nor stores did not have one. A friend of mine who knows will replace that for me. 

the rogue goes way better, feels smooth and the engine dose not scream like it used to. 

The car runs fine, do i need an alignment or not? 

I will update the group, thanks a bunch!


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If you replaced ball joints then an alignment is definitely in order. Glad to hear it's running better!


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

thanks a lot *VStar650CL *


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. Happy motoring!


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

I have a guzzling - bussing noise in my tranny bay on my rouge again, i wonder if that is a CVT noise and all are like that or my car has a problem here? 
what is normal and not normal when it comes to sounds and noises on a cvt? how quiet are they?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The stepper motors can make noise, but usually it isn't audible inside the car with windows closed. Windows open it's audible on most of them (although not very loud).


----------



## RostyKamal (Aug 4, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The stepper motors can make noise, but usually it isn't audible inside the car with windows closed. Windows open it's audible on most of them (although not very loud).



that is true, mine you hear when you open the window a bit. 

I had to replace the mount too, it was leaking hydraulic. 

thanks for all your knowledge


----------

