# 2002 Altima 2.5 Periodic Hard Start and rough Idle When warm/hot



## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

I just bought a 2002 Altima that needed a motor. 
I brought it home and tried to crank it, and nothing happened. I looked in the trunk and the starter was taken out. I Got a new starter and installed it and it started right up.
Ok so it runs, Great. In the trunk I also noticed an old Radiator (new one was installed on the car) and 2 gallons on water in coolant jugs.

Iv noticed that when it gets close to normal operating temperature, it gets tough to start. Ill have to crank it for 2-3 seconds at a time, and it will normally start on the 2,3, or 4th try. When it does start, it doesn't jump right up to idle. It kinda starts with a rough idle, and sounds like it wants to die, but will start to idle normally. Only it doesn't get completyly normally idleing, it will still roughly idle (jumping around from 400-800 rpms). 

When its cold, it starts right up and runs/idles great. It just starts acting up when it gets to normal op temp (hard start, and rough idle). When its in drive, it runs and drives great, just idles and feels like will stall at red lights and stop signs. (never has stalled... yet)

When I first started it, the Service engine light (check engine light) was on. I got it scanned at Autozone and it was The throttle position sensor (forgot code), so I got a used one at the junk yard, installed it, and did the relearn procedure successfully. I Then reset the SES light and it did not come back on, but it didn't fix the problem, it still hards starts hot and idles rough. 

I then replaced all 4 spark plugs with Denso Platinums. The old spark plugs looked good, One may have looked a little wet but not sure what it was. didn't fix the issue.

Next, I purchased a new coil pack and replaced each coil with the new one to see if one had failed, but after each swap with the new one, the engine ran the same. I did each coil individually, and it didn't fix it, so I returned the Spark plug coil.

My next Try was the Crank Sensor and the Cam sensor. I purchased one new from Autozone (both cam and crank sensor are the same part) w/ 1 year warrenty and replaced the cam sensor, started the car to test it and it was still not fixed. So I removed the new cam senor, put old one in, and replaced the crank sensor with new sensor. I tested it again, and it was not fixed, so I just left the new crank sensor on.

Next plan of attack was the Head gasket. Ok so iv been looking for the signs, but all show my head gasket is good.
*First test- Check oil for water mixed in, I looked at the dipstick and looked at the engine oil. It is still a good, oily density with a good, brown color. no signs of water in the oil.
*Second Test- Look for white, sweet smelling smoke from the exhaust pipe when first starting, or just in general while running. None! no thick white smoke with burnt coolant smell. It does smoke white upon starting, but I think it is just normal, being as its been chilly the last couple of days.
*Third test- Remove Rad. cap, start car, and look for Compression or spewing cooling from the top of the radiator without cap (because the head gasket could allow cylinder compression to escape throught the cooling system), and no pressure what so ever. Iv also been keeping an eye on my coolant levels to see if I'm loosing any, which I am, but in 2 weeks its moved from the max line in the overflow tank to just under the min line in the overflow tank.
*The last test was the cylinder compression tests. The test showed cylinder 1-145, 2-150, 3-150, and 4-162. They are all within 15% of each other, so I really do think the head gasket is good. 

I also took the PCV valve and inspected it, and the little piece on the inside is still moving, and air flows in both directions. I also looked at my Mass Airflow sensor, and it is very clean. 

I'm not sure what else to do here?
Does anyone have any idea what I should check next?
Im thinking that the used Throttle Position Sensor is not fully functional, but not bad enough to throw a code, but still bad enough for hard starts and rough idle.
Or I'm just thinking the Head gasket has a very minute Coolant leak into a cylinder, and the head gasket is still passing all the test because it is such a small leak, but still is using very little coolant.
Can this issue be due to the Altima recall on the pcm/crank sensor/cam sensor?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

any more codes? when my head gskt started to go, (overnight) it would start up with a rough idle, as the coolant burned off it would run good


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

No, No other codes. The check engine light is off and has been off for the last couple of days. I drive it maybe 30 miles a day.

When its cold it starts and runs great! Then, when it gets to normal operating temp, it starts the rough idle, feels like it will almost stall at stop signs and red lights. then, when I turn the car off, it gets tough to start, and continues the rough idle, like its misfiring. If I let it completely cool down, it starts and runs great.

I picked up some 'Blue Devil, Pour-n-go, Head Gasket Sealer', but I researched reviews, which were mostly all good (90%), but the other (10%) of the reviews said that it made their engine overheat, and completely gummed up and clogged their entire cooling system, so I'm scared to use it. I would rather drive like it is (because its not really that bad, more annoying), and replace the head gasket myself in a few days when I have enough time to do it, and have enough money to buy a quality, complete gasket kit, including the Head gasket. Anyone have any idea about Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer?

I'm almost convinced its the head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder, because I don't know what else to look for, change out, or test.

Oh, by the way, Iv got an appointment at the dealership tomorrow for the recall on the ECM Reprogram. Its free, so I figured Id give it a shot. Its the only Recall that hasn't been satisfied on my vehicle. I will post an update if it fixes my issue or not (doubt it will) tommorrow as soon as I have it done. Hopefully this can help others with the same issue I'm having.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

it almost sounds like the cam/crank sensors, mine died when it was hot, after it cooled, it started and got me home.. if was a head gskt, once you shut it off, the pressure in the cooling system would send coolant into the cylinder and it would have a rough start up, as the coolant burns off the idle and run-ability would improve, yours is just the opposite


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

SPEEDO said:


> it almost sounds like the cam/crank sensors,


Yea, that's what I was thinking. What I did was goto Autozone and but the Crank sensor. I noticed that the cam/crank sensor are the same part. So what I did was change out the cam sensor with the new one, and I started my Altima to test it. It didn't fix it, it still idles rough. and it idles rought constantly, the whole time, no matter how long its been running. Occasionally, it will idle good, but not for very long, maybe a minute or 2. 

Anyways, since it didn't fix it, I put the old cam sensor back in and swapped out the crank sensor with the new one, started it and tested it, and still, it didn't fix the issue. So I left the new crank sensor in on the crank sensor, but the cam sensor is still the old one that came with the car. Maybe its a combination of both of them together causing the issue? Maybe I should try changing the cam sensor too, that way both the cam/crank sensors are new.

I have an appointment today at the dealership for the recall on the ECM. They are going to reprogram the ECM for free since its under recall, so I figured id give that a shot, since iv got nothing to loose. All the other recalls on my Altima have already been satisfied. I will post my results of weather or not it will fix it (doubt it will)

Thanks for your input too by the way SPEEDO, I'm stumped if the ECM reprogram doesn't work.

Do you know anything about Blue Devil pour-n-go Head Gasket Sealer? I want to use it but I'm scared because about 10% of the reviews say it made their car overheat and clogged up their whole Cooling system. The other 90% said it worked great, fixing their issue.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

UPDATE: I just got back from the dealership for the ECM REPROGRAM, and it did not fix my Warm/Hot Hard start & Rough Idle Issue. They performed the ECM Reprogram as well as the throttle/idle Relearn, which either didn't fix my issue. 

I'm almost sure that I will need a new head Gasket. I am going to buy the Head Gasket soon and replace it, and I will update if it fixes my issue. I'm almost positive it will.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

here is a oem pt # for the cam/crank kit B3731-6N21A, should be about $50 for the pair. as for a gskt sealer, I wouldn't, that stuff may plug up the wrong holes, these engines now days have very tight tolerances


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ +1 and more.

Block sealer garbage = temporary solution that _*MIGHT*_ work...AT BEST...and might even last a little while in perfect conditions.
Or it'll plug everything up and turn your engine into future pop cans and manhole covers.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

True. Thanks guys. I'm not going to use the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer now. I just needed a little nudge away from it because I'm almost getting Desperate.

And thanks for the Cam/Crank sensor OEM part number. Do you think that they can Cause the issue together?
When I was at the dealer today they said $119 Each sensor (cam/crank), Haha, that's crazy. But the OEM Head gasket there is only $65, which I may go back and get really soon.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

yeah, the single sensor (pt# 23731-6N21A) is more expensive...get the kit


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> Iv noticed that when it gets close to normal operating temperature, it gets tough to start. Ill have to crank it for 2-3 seconds at a time, and it will normally start on the 2,3, or 4th try. When it does start, it doesn't jump right up to idle. It kinda starts with a rough idle, and sounds like it wants to die, but will start to idle normally. Only it doesn't get completyly normally idleing, it will still roughly idle (jumping around from 400-800 rpms).
> 
> When its cold, it starts right up and runs/idles great. It just starts acting up when it gets to normal op temp (hard start, and rough idle). When its in drive, it runs and drives great, just idles and feels like will stall at red lights and stop signs. (never has stalled... yet)
> 
> ...


The compression test on the cylinders seemed to be OK; however cyl #1 is a bit below spec so there possibly may be a problem there. You can do the test again by using the wet method, by putting in a teaspoon of motor oil into each cylinder to see if there is any difference.

If you suspect a blown head gasket, you can purchase a chemical test kit to measure for the presence of combustion gas that may be in the coolant. Another test is a coolant system pressure test using a portable pressurizer.

The rough idling, when fully warmed up, could be a general condition affecting all cylinders or just one cylinder:
* - One cylinder:
You did mention that one of the original plugs was a little wet; that cylinder could be the problem. After running with the engine warmed up, pull the plugs and see if there is anything abnormal with each plug. The fuel injector may not be firing correctly or it's dirty. 
* - All cylinders:
- Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in pressure gauge to the fuel rail input line. Spec: 51 psi
- Dirty injectors. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job. 
- Intake system major vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

Thanks for the input! Awesome write up! Good Stuff



rogoman said:


> The rough idling, when fully warmed up, could be a general condition affecting all cylinders or just one cylinder:
> * - One cylinder:
> You did mention that one of the original plugs was a little wet; that cylinder could be the problem. After running with the engine warmed up, pull the plugs and see if there is anything abnormal with each plug. The fuel injector may not be firing correctly or it's dirty.


I'm going to let my car warm up, and look at the plugs after its fully warmed. Ill post my Results.



rogoman said:


> * - All cylinders:
> - Incorrect fuel pressure. Tee-in pressure gauge to the fuel rail input line. Spec: 51 psi
> - Dirty injectors. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job.
> - Intake system major vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.
> ...


I'm going to have a get a pressure gauge and Vacuum gauge to do this, so I cant do this right away.

As far as the Coolant tests, and combustion in the coolant check, Those kits are kinda on the expensive side. Id rather use that money to just buy and Gasket Kit, and change out the Head Gasket. 

I'm on edge about weather or not to get the head resurfaced. I want to go ahead and just Replace the headgasket w/o Resurfacing the head. Do you guys think thatd be ok?

Oh, and one quick update:
When I was driving my Altima today, the check engine light came on. The codes where:
*P0420- P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
*P0128- Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)

I am thinking that these are both directly related to my Coolant Leaking head Gasket.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

rogoman said:


> - Dirty injectors. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job.
> .


I'm also Going to give this a shot, I just don't know if I want to wait 2 weeks, haha


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> I'm on edge about weather or not to get the head resurfaced. I want to go ahead and just Replace the headgasket w/o Resurfacing the head. Do you guys think thatd be ok?
> 
> Oh, and one quick update:
> When I was driving my Altima today, the check engine light came on. The codes where:
> ...


While the head is removed, it's easy enough to test it for warpage with an accurate straight edge. Installing a warped head is just inviting a head gasket blow-out.

If you have a bad temperature sensor, it could definitely be the source of your rough idling problem as it might be sending the ECU an incorrect value after engine warmup.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jeeze, and I'd say installing a head without getting it surfaced, whether it's warped or not, perfectly straight or not, is just plain dumb economics. The only case for installing a head without getting it resurfaced would be with a brand new head.
Last time I had a head resurfaced (~3 years ago), it cost an extra $50, dropped it off at noon, picked it up at about 5PM.
But apparently every one of the suggestions put forth on this particular thread have gone unheeded thus far...


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if the head is resurfaced you may have to make up that difference in the gskt, (depending on how much is taken off)


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

jdg said:


> Jeeze, and I'd say installing a head without getting it surfaced, whether it's warped or not, perfectly straight or not, is just plain dumb economics. The only case for installing a head without getting it resurfaced would be with a brand new head.
> Last time I had a head resurfaced (~3 years ago), it cost an extra $50, dropped it off at noon, picked it up at about 5PM.
> But apparently every one of the suggestions put forth on this particular thread have gone unheeded thus far...


Not much talk on head gaskets and resurfaces here. I figured if the head is straight, why fix something that's not broken. If it is the head gasket, then its a tiny leak, that wouldn't cause the heads to warp, At least I don't think.
If the head is straight how is it dumb economics to not get it resurfaced, lol, just wondering, but ok, I got the point, ill get the heads resurfaced. Theres no machines shops close to. Apparently your fortunate to drop it off a noon, and get back by 5.
For me, it will be send it off at the post office at noon, then get back next week at 5 pm, haha.



rogoman said:


> While the head is removed, it's easy enough to test it for warpage with an accurate straight edge. Installing a warped head is just inviting a head gasket blow-out.
> 
> If you have a bad temperature sensor, it could definitely be the source of your rough idling problem as it might be sending the ECU an incorrect value after engine warmup.


Thanks, I'm going to check the temperature sensor. Is there a way to test that sensor before buying a new one?


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

SPEEDO said:


> if the head is resurfaced you may have to make up that difference in the gskt, (depending on how much is taken off)


As in a thicker gasket?
Also, will it change the compression, because there will be a slightly smaller compression chamber after a resurface?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> Not much talk on head gaskets and resurfaces here. I figured if the head is straight, why fix something that's not broken. If it is the head gasket, then its a tiny leak, that wouldn't cause the heads to warp, At least I don't think.


If it's got any kind of miles on it, it's also going to be full of little 'micro-pits'. Dissimilar metal corrosion, otherwise known as galvanic corrosion.
It's on everything...iron block, iron head...iron block, aluminum head, aluminum block, aluminum head...everything.
As far as compression goes...you need a fairly tight combustion chamber for machining or head gasket thickness to make a difference.
Unless you've got some sort of performance engine in the first place where the piston to valve clearance is very close, AND the head is really warped and needs to have a lot of metal machined off it to get it straight, AND the replacement head gasket is a lot thinner than the original gasket...No...not going to make a difference that anybody anywhere anyhow would notice, or even likely be able to calculate.
And besides that, any decent machinist is going to know, or at least be able to look up, the maximum amount of metal he/she will be able to machine off the head. And it sounds like you've got a small leak at most, if you've got one at all. For all we know, it's going out the water pump weep hole and evaporating before you get to see it......which is why I suggested the combustion gas check. And while you're at it, you can buy florescent dye to add to the coolant and look for external leaks after a bit of driving. Put the stuff in the radiator, drive it for awhile, get your hands on a UV light (black light) and search the engine for a nice glow under the black light.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

jdg said:


> If it's got any kind of miles on it, it's also going to be full of little 'micro-pits'. Dissimilar metal corrosion, otherwise known as galvanic corrosion.
> It's on everything...iron block, iron head...iron block, aluminum head, aluminum block, aluminum head...everything.
> As far as compression goes...you need a fairly tight combustion chamber for machining or head gasket thickness to make a difference.
> Unless you've got some sort of performance engine in the first place where the piston to valve clearance is very close, AND the head is really warped and needs to have a lot of metal machined off it to get it straight, AND the replacement head gasket is a lot thinner than the original gasket...No...not going to make a difference that anybody anywhere anyhow would notice, or even likely be able to calculate.
> And besides that, any decent machinist is going to know, or at least be able to look up, the maximum amount of metal he/she will be able to machine off the head. And it sounds like you've got a small leak at most, if you've got one at all. For all we know, it's going out the water pump weep hole and evaporating before you get to see it......which is why I suggested the combustion gas check. And while you're at it, you can buy florescent dye to add to the coolant and look for external leaks after a bit of driving. Put the stuff in the radiator, drive it for awhile, get your hands on a UV light (black light) and search the engine for a nice glow under the black light.


True. So the resurface wont make much a difference, as far as combustion goes. And yea, its got 180,000 miles on it. No, not a race car, ,just a normal everyday driver car.

Dam, I was driving for a few hours today, and I stopped at a store. I got back in my car about 10-15 mins later, and my Altima wouldn't start for nothing. It took about 2 mins of on/off cranking to finally get it started. When it did start, it did have white smoke, a pretty good bit too. Dam, its so annoying when it doesn't want to start. Its runs good otherwise, starts good in the morning, or when the motors cold in general, but idles rough, and when its normal operating temperature, after its turned off, and I try to start it minimum 10 mins after its been off, its getting harder and harder to start.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> I'm going to check the temperature sensor. Is there a way to test that sensor before buying a new one?


This is out of an FSM for your Altima:

The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.
Engine coolant temperature: 14 °F, resistance ; 7.0 - 11.4 kΩ
Engine coolant temperature: 194 °F, resistance ; 0.236 - 0.260 kΩ


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> True. So the resurface wont make much a difference, as far as combustion goes.


No...it WILL make a difference. Maybe not today, maybe not this week, maybe not even this year or this month. But down the road, when that little micropit decides to open up a bit more...bam...instant blown head gasket and you're right back to where you started.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

rogoman said:


> This is out of an FSM for your Altima:
> 
> The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.
> Engine coolant temperature: 14 °F, resistance ; 7.0 - 11.4 kΩ
> Engine coolant temperature: 194 °F, resistance ; 0.236 - 0.260 kΩ


Awsome! thanks. I gotta find where my temp sensor is. I thought the Temp sensor was on the right side of the engine, in that upper housing that looks like where the thermostat is. The picture the guy showed me at advanced auto looked like a different plug, so i might be looking at the wrong sensor on the car.



jdg said:


> No...it WILL make a difference. Maybe not today, maybe not this week, maybe not even this year or this month. But down the road, when that little micropit decides to open up a bit more...bam...instant blown head gasket and you're right back to where you started.


Ok so ill get it resurfaced when i do it. Ill have to look up where a local Machine shop is around me, Myrtle Beach, SC. Hopefully not too far away.

I'm almost sure its the Head Gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder. Its been using up a lot of coolant. A few days ago, i topped it off, At the max line on the overflow, and filled to the neck on the rad top. I looked it today, and the overflow amount is below the MIN line, and the Rad lever is just barely about the fins on the inside.
Also, today it was tough to start twice. Both occassions after driving for about 1 hour or more, up to normal op temp, and stopping and turning off car. 10-15 mins later, wont start. Takes 1-2 mins on/off cranking to start.
*Both times there was a good amount of white puffs of smoke following 
*On the 1st and 2nd crank of each occassion, the motor was locked, HYDRO LOCK, then it would free up and normally crank with the starter goin.

So now i Need a Complete Head Gasket kit. The kit comes with The Head Gasket, Exhaust Gasket, 2 intake Gaskets, valve cover gasket, Valve seals, and numerous O-rings for sensors. The Ebay head gasket is Multi-layered steel (MLS)

Nissan Dealership- $150
Advanced Auto- $120
eBay- $50 (Comes with Head Bolts, A $79 Value)

Obviously The dealershio OEM Head Gasket is the best choice, but the Ebay Price is less then half, and it comes with Head bolts, which is $79 more else where. I think I'm going to sell the car as soon as its fixed, and get a truck. 

What you guys think OEM or eBay? I'm not sure if the OEM is a Multi-layered steel (MLS) head gasket

Oh also the kit doesn't come with a Timing Chain cover Gasket... Is this supposed to be done With RTV sealer?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Do NOT get the eBay head gasket kit, and especially do NOT get the eBay head bolts. These bolts are what's called 'torque to yield' where the clamping force produced by the very small stretch of bolt itself is dictated by the amount the bolt is turned after a specific torque is reached. They can only be tightened down ONE TIME, stretched once. When loosened, they don't "un-stretch". And if re-used, will NOT clamp down correctly and there's no way to know exactly how hard they are actually clamping down.
What's the big deal?
A used bolt can be cleaned and you and I would never be able to tell whether or not a bolt has been used or not.
Hence, no eBay head bolts.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

OK. So ill be safe with the my head bolts i have now. 
How about the head gasket? OEM (dealership) or Ebay? W/O head bolts on Ebay is only $35. Not a bad price


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Ya know what...Do what you want to do. I get the feeling you're going to do it anyway, and you'll sell the vehicle to some unknowing halfwit and hope they'll have to deal with your shoddy maintenance in the future.
Cheap, Quick, Easy. You can have 2 out of 3.
Cheap + Quick = won't be Easy
Cheap + Easy = won't be Quick
Quick + Easy = won't be Cheap
You CAN NOT have all 3 at the same time.
I'm out.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

JDG, I have to say I love your comments, and the reasoning behind them. You always offer good advice, though its obvious that some people have a hard time understanding it.
PleaseHelp -- what he is saying is that headbolts can only be torqued properly one time. After that they have been stretched and will not be able to be re-torqued properly. He is also questioning the quality of those on offer through Ebay, and raising the possibility that those being supplied may be old. Good luck with your repair job.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

ok lets forget about the bolts. I'm not worried about them. I understood what he meant. He was only referring to the Ebay Bolts, not the used ones on my car now. Hence 'ill be safe with the ones I have now'

Haha but ok, if my not wanting to get ripped off by a shop, and trying to save as much money as possible to get by these days, is shady maintenance, so be it. 

But I never really did get an answer. Ok let me ask this.
Does anyone know what kind of head gasket is in a stock 02 Altima? They Have MLS and Graphite Head gaskets available for sale. Which is better?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Please HelpMy Altima said:


> ok lets forget about the bolts. I'm not worried about them. I understood what he meant. He was only referring to the Ebay Bolts, not the used ones on my car now. Hence 'ill be safe with the ones I have now'
> 
> Haha but ok, if my not wanting to get ripped off by a shop, and trying to save as much money as possible to get by these days, is shady maintenance, so be it.
> 
> ...


Not so fast! Nissan installs torque-to-yield (TTY) head bolts in their late model engines so your old bolts have already been stretched; you can refer to an FSM for that info.

Your best bet is to get new head bolts and head gasket from a Nissan dealer. Refer to an FSM for the proper procedure to tighten the head bolts.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

ok. Ill just go ahead and Get the Head Gasket Kit and Bolts from the dealer.
Thanks for your help everybody, and I will be doing it within the next few days. I will let everybody know how it goes. Thanks again everybody.!


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

ok Guys. I got my whole top end apart I got everything done except taking the actual head off. I need to barrow the right size Allen Key from a friend to take the 10 head bolts out. 

I have a question.
When I actually take the head off, will I be able to see that the head gasket is leaking? Will there be a visible broken spot in the Head Gasket, or not necessarily?

Also, what are the bolts in the middle of the head, between the Cam shafts? there 4 or 5 of them I believe. I know the actual bolts that hold the head on are the out side 10, ,5 on each side, but I'm wondering what the ones in the middle are for?

Tommorrow, I'm going to take the head off and Ill let you guys know how it looks. 

Oh, also, while I was taking my Intake apart and off, I found this. Could this be what's causing my hard start/rough idle???


































These wont fully close because one lost a screw, and is tilted, cause them all to not fully close.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The missing screw certainly could have caused damage in that cylinder. Put lock-tite on all those screws. Once you remove the head, look for possible damage to the piston top and combustion chamber roof. That #1 cyl that had a compression reading of 145 psi could be the one that the screw entered causing possible damage. Prior to removing the head, a leak-down test should probably be run to pin-point the problem cyl; in particular possible damage caused by the lost screw.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

rogoman said:


> The missing screw certainly could have caused damage in that cylinder.


Is that the infamous "missing butterfly screw" problem I hear so much about?
Never seen one up close. Only imagined it what it would look like from the various diagrams.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jdg said:


> Is that the infamous "missing butterfly screw" problem I hear so much about?
> Never seen one up close. Only imagined it what it would look like from the various diagrams.


That's the one everybody speaks about. At this point there may be more problems then just a possible blown head gasket.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

I guess ill find out today if there are any more problems. it ran really good still, just had issues idling and hard start when warm. Maybe these issues were caused because this power valve wasn't closing all the way. 

Who knows how long that screws been missing, but if a long time, that screw has been in and out of the compression a long time ago, lol, and it may be in the cat now.

I seen another post where the car owner found 1 of 4 screws in the cat, and it was sculpted down to a bb sized piece of metal.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

probably bent the electrode on the spark plug also


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

Just got the head off. All looks good, but I really cant see much in the first cylinder because its a top dead center, and I don't want to move the crank shaft with the top part of the timing chain off. The Head gasket looks good aswell, but then again I'm not sure I would be able to see a leak if it was leaking. I'm about to post some pics.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

All spark plugs look good, by the way. There is metal shavings in the oil tho, It looks like sparkles in the oil.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

I think I found some of that missing screw from the power valve. This is the Little tiny filter that goes from the head to the timing chain Area. A lot of metal.


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## Please HelpMy Altima (Feb 22, 2016)

Finished my Head Gasket job. Started it up, and runs great. Drove it around and let it get to operating temp, and went into the store and tried to start it 10 mins later, and it starts right up, no hard start issue anymore. It starts up great now, everytime, Hot or cold, day or night, haha.

However, I'm still having an issue with the rough idle. It seems like a very small misfire every few seconds, and is more noticeable when in drive, stopped at a light or stop sign. I'm thinking that the screw I lost from the Intake went into a cylinder and scratched the cylinder wall and/or piston, Or it may just be the Crank&cam sensors.

Either way, I'm super happy Its not hard to start anymore, start like it should everytime, and no more loosing coolant. 

Maybe ill try to figure out the rough idle, but for now, its not bad at all, so I'm content for now.


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## yashvink22 (Mar 19, 2016)

*Nissan B14 Year 1998 Slow pick up*

Nissan B14 Year 1998 Slow pick up

Hello evryone... need ur help..I have a Nissan B14 1998 1295cc.. i feel that the pick up on 4th & 5 th gear is a bit slow and my car is consuming fuel...can you help me please..i just did a servicing..still same problem..thanks..

Please help


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

yashvink22 said:


> Nissan B14 Year 1998 Slow pick up
> 
> Hello evryone... need ur help..I have a Nissan B14 1998 1295cc.. i feel that the pick up on 4th & 5 th gear is a bit slow and my car is consuming fuel...can you help me please..i just did a servicing..still same problem..thanks..
> 
> Please help


A B14 is an Altima/Stanza?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

*High-jacking*



yashvink22 said:


> Nissan B14 Year 1998 Slow pick up
> 
> Hello evryone... need ur help..I have a Nissan B14 1998 1295cc.. i feel that the pick up on 4th & 5 th gear is a bit slow and my car is consuming fuel...can you help me please..i just did a servicing..still same problem..thanks..
> 
> Please help


Sure we'll help you but please start a new thread instead of high-jacking this one; you're talking about a different car entirely!


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## Tigg82 (Mar 29, 2016)

Hi, I have a 02 altima just purchased. The car is hard to crank it has been back and forth to the shop and they can't find anything wrong. This past Sunday it was towed back to the shop. It will crank but it idles high 1500-2000 rpm. I put it in drive and it shuts down. In idle the car would rev to 2000 then get stuck and do this jumping thing. The oil is normal. I'm loosing coolant very very slowly. And I took the radiator cap off and cranked it and the coolant never moved. What could this be???? Please help


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