# 99 Maxima wont' start



## shorttimer1 (Apr 24, 2005)

Twice in the last month my 99 Max would not start start. Both times left me stranded. And both times when I got ready to tow it to a dealer,(after 2 days of trying to start it), it would easily start like nothing happedned. The first dealer got no codes and did a 400 dollar tune up service it really didn't need. The 2nd dealer (with the check engine light on) got catalytic converter and O2 sensor codes.. Any outside chance that this 1000 expense will fix the errant starting problem? You never know what the comupter is telling the car to do. My 1983 Datsun Max had complete shutdown problems that forced me to replace the computer. Maybe I should have started with that any help greatly appreciated.


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

What is it doing by not starting?

Can you hear the engine trying to turn over...or is it clicking...or nothing at all when you turn the key?


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## shorttimer1 (Apr 24, 2005)

When you turned the key, the starter turns full speed but no ignition, not even one cylinder hits. Then after 2 days it starts normally. I just had the cat conv replaced today which cleared all the codes ok. (a universal for $$350 as opposed to the dealers $1100). Any thought this might clear the start problem.. I told my wife that she is still on standby. Thanks in advance for your response


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

Personally I have never heard of a bad cat or bad o2 sensor shutting the car down like it is.

Have you gone over the normal things when it doesn't start up? Like make sure you have spark/fuel?

Also, since it is a '99. You are using the key with the chip in it, right...no other keys? Just checking.

Lastly, are you getting any other error codes?


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## shorttimer1 (Apr 24, 2005)

As of this morn, 4/27, the car did not start again after what I changed above. The only thing in common on these no starts is that it rained a few hours before and it was damp out. I think because the car does eventually start up the key codes are still held. If I could get it to a repair station while it wasn't starting, I could figure out what it was missing like fuel, spark etc. I'm considering have the ECU rebuilt by an overnight rebuilder. Of course I'm not even sure where it is, so wish me luck and thanks for the help. I'll try a few more things then if that doesn't work i'll wait for a sunny day and trade it back to a nissan dealer for something newer..SHORTTIMER1


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## shorttimer1 (Apr 24, 2005)

This afternoon it started and I was able to get it to a shop that got codes for the camshaft position sensor and noc sensor. So those are changed out (400 bucks) and we'll see after tonights rain if we got a winner


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## Redline (Apr 29, 2005)

*too much money spent*



shorttimer1 said:


> This afternoon it started and I was able to get it to a shop that got codes for the camshaft position sensor and noc sensor. So those are changed out (400 bucks) and we'll see after tonights rain if we got a winner


Hello shorttimer, hopefully I can shed some light on your situation and help you track down and isolate your problem without spending thousands of dollars and not ever getting the problem fixed. First thing to know is all problems that can arise will not always create an error code for your cars computer to identify. Only problems inline with sensors usually will result in an error code. The problem you seem to be having is intermittant. Before we start looking at the most expensive fix you must start with the most simple fix. The #1 key to troubleshooting and not going broke in the process. Lets stick with the facts. At times the car will start, and at times it won't. Is this happening while the car is cold or warm from after just driving? Has it ever just shut off on you while driving? These are some questions that I would need to know in order to help with your situation. Is your car distributorless? If not I recomend you have the crankangle sensor checked for corrosion. If so have your coil or coilpacks checked. Also check your battery if you have not done so. Get it tested, though it may not be discharged, a bad cell can cause starting and charging problems. Where have you been getting gas from? Sometimes gas from the wrong pump station can cause your car to ill respond.


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## shorttimer1 (Apr 24, 2005)

*I believe I finally got it.*



Redline said:


> Hello shorttimer, hopefully I can shed some light on your situation and help you track down and isolate your problem without spending thousands of dollars and not ever getting the problem fixed. First thing to know is all problems that can arise will not always create an error code for your cars computer to identify. Only problems inline with sensors usually will result in an error code. The problem you seem to be having is intermittant. Before we start looking at the most expensive fix you must start with the most simple fix. The #1 key to troubleshooting and not going broke in the process. Lets stick with the facts. At times the car will start, and at times it won't. Is this happening while the car is cold or warm from after just driving? Has it ever just shut off on you while driving? These are some questions that I would need to know in order to help with your situation. Is your car distributorless? If not I recomend you have the crankangle sensor checked for corrosion. If so have your coil or coilpacks checked. Also check your battery if you have not done so. Get it tested, though it may not be discharged, a bad cell can cause starting and charging problems. Where have you been getting gas from? Sometimes gas from the wrong pump station can cause your car to ill respond.


Looks like the replacement of the camshaft position and knock sensors did the trick. Its been almost 2 weeks with alot of overnight rains and she is starting good. Knock on wood. I somewhat remember the 2nd dealer saying those sensors along with codes for the catalytic converter, but he wanted to replace the catalytic converter 1st ($1100) and "go from there". The universal catconv cost $300 (from Mieneke) and the sensors replaced cost $400 for a total of $700. The dealer would have been a thousand more. The young jr manager a Mieneke showed more on the ball then the service advisor at the dealer. Redines suggestions are good, but unless you know that and specifically ask for those things to be checked up front during your initial $90 analysis, the dealer will only look at whats coded. Just some food for thought. I sold off my auto repair stuff back when most cars went to electronic ignition in the late 70's, so I buy new cars and pray to stay away from shops.. Thanx to all for advice .. FES


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