# Need help today on a no-start '95 Sentra!!!



## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Hello to all, I am new here! This is a post for a plea for some help! We own a '95 Sentra with the 1.6, it is our daily driver, and is bone stock. I returned from a business trip to find my wife could not get the car to start. It cranks just fine, and has spark. I pulled the plugs, they appear to be somewhat dry. I have not checked fuel pressure, but it did have fuel when the key was turned on, and the line out of the filter was placed into a container. I do not have access to a scan tool, and am hoping someone here has some information to share. I am guessing the timing chain/tensioner is not an issue, as I can see the cam moving when cranking the motor with the oil fill cap off. What I am wondering, is if maybe there is a coolant temp sensor out of whack, maybe not delivering enough fuel volume when it is cold to start? Or, if there are any other known issues I need to check for? The car has been trouble-free until now, with only a small oil leak from the front seal, which will be dealt with when our weather gets a bit warmer! Fire away with any ideas, the best way is to email them to me. I now remember why I got out of the auto tech end of things in '98! I was an ASE Master Tech for 20 yrs, and got tired of broken knuckles! Again, thanks for any help in my quest to avoid the Nissan dealership on Monday morning.....


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

is the battery dead?


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

See above!! No, it is not, it cranks fine, has spark, and appears to have fuel through the filter.


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

just checking, you never know when you're in a rush 

well, is it throwing any lights yet? have you checked the alternator?


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Again, the battery, and thus I presume alternator, are fine. It ran fine for her, she went out to start it, and all of a sudden it just cranks and won't run. There have been no SES lamps on. A year ago it came on, I turned the screw on the ECU to flash the codes, and found it had a bad front O2 sensor, which I replaced. A few months ago it had an erratic idle, especially with the A/C on, and the SES came on. It was kind of weird, it showed an IAC code that was not listed in the '95 info, but was similar to the '96's. I took the IAC off, cleaned it up, put it back on, cleared the code, and it has been fine since.


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

so if you're sure it has fuel, wires, plugs and distributor have been checked... and it ran a while but won't start now, the battery is fine, I'd say it's the alternator.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Sorry James, it is NOT the alternator! The alternator can be taken off of a car, and if the battery is sufficiently charged, it WILL start. It would continue to run until the voltage in the battery drops below the point where the various electronics on the car cease to function. I will hope someone with some good tech knowledge reads this and has some ideas! Thanks James!


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

well if you're sure... the only other thing I'd say is to check the MAF sensor.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

I already unplugged it and tried to start it, and it makes no difference. I am assuming here that Nissan is like any other make of car, and it has a default setting in the ECU that should allow it to at least start, with no reading from the MAF?


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

yeah it will start with no MAF but I'm out of ideas. when you pulled the plugs did you smell a lot of fuel?

there are no known "issues" with these cars that I know of...


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## se7enty7 (Jun 18, 2002)

When an engine cranks but won't start (or even attempt to start) It's pretty much either
1) no fuel
2) no spark


/me remembers the days of carburation when you could just pour some gas into the carbs and see if it would start... 


I wish I never sold that 914/2.0 with quad webers, suspension and all...


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Nope, as I first mentioned it had fuel after the filter, although I have NOT checked fuel pressure, I only verifed that there was fuel after the filter when the key was turned to the on position. The plugs seemed dry. This is why I am seeking any advice on whether or not anyone has had issues with ECT sensors or anything like that. I am wondering if it may be getting fuel, but I have seen in some GM vehicles where the ECT shows a high reading, like 200+ degrees, the injector pulse is too little for the car to start? I have not ever had to do any Nissan work!


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

Like I said, it's not common for these cars to have strange malfunctions like that. It's gotta be something basic that you're overlooking.


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## LIUSPEED (May 29, 2002)

have u try the coolant temp sensor..

this sounds like what happened 2 me a long time ago and found out that it was my Coolant temp sensor


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Well, I feel I have more than covered any basics.....fuel past the filter (but unsure of injector pulse or not), spark is present, cam is moving when the engine is cranking, etc. My .02 is that it will end up an ECU or a sensor problem.


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## LIUSPEED (May 29, 2002)

have u tried the coolant temp sensor? cuz i had a similiar problem a while back and it was my coolant temp sensor.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Liuspeed, do you know what the sensor values are for the ECT sensors? I know that normally there is a spec in ohms that it reads in relationship to coolant temp. Also, can you advise on the location of the sensor, I am fairly certain I have ID'd it, but want to be sure! Finally someone understands what I am after! Thanks!


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## LIUSPEED (May 29, 2002)

i know that the Coolant Temp Sensor is somewhere nearby on the passenger side is what i recalled. im not 100 % sure about the others. try replacing that . what happened 2 me a long time ago was that i had fuel and everything and it would turn over but never ignite and start. checked everything and found out it was the coolant temp sensor that gone bad. so i replaced it and now everything is fine.

hope this helps


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

FYI:

Coolant Temp sensor sets off a light and trouble code 13. 

Testing the sensor:

68F= 2.3-2.7 kohm
194F=.24-.26 Kohm
230F=.14-.15 Kohm.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Thanks for the sensor values, they are what I need to test the ECT sensor! My thought is that I wonder if it would be possible for the sensor to fail, and hold a continuous 140-150 ohm reading, and thus the engine would not receive enough fuel for a cold start, yet not set a code and turn on the SES lamp since it was within limits the ECU sees normally? I have seen this on some GM ECT's in the past. I am headed out right now to test it. Jeezus, if I continue to have troubles and keep posting this fast, you may get to see me add a photo of one of the race cars I've had under my screen name.........LOL!


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

OK, just checked the two sensors that I believe are possibly the ECT. One is fairly large, and has a hex-shaped part a couple of inches long on it, and it screws into the rear of the head at the passenger's side, and sticks straight out towards the firewall. The other is just below it, and it screws into the intake manifold. The one at the head shows 9.9 ohms, and the other one has a 4.73 Kohm reading. Which is the ECT? If it is the intake, I would tend to believe the 4.73 Kohm reading as accurate, as it is cold out now. Is one for the temp gauge? I am inside again, and did not see if the gauge did anything with them unhooked and the key on. Or, am I way off in my hunt for the ECT?

PS I did a search on here and found that some Nissan motors only use one compression ring, and are sensitive to flooding. Is this true for the 1.6 we have? I wonder if it has flooded due to low cranking speed in the cold, and maybe I should just pull the plugs, and let it sit overnight and let any fuel in there evaporate? What is normal cranking compression on these? I can easily check that to see if gas wash has contributed to the no start.


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

well I don't know what you're looking at so I don't want to point you in the wrong direction. both those values seem off to be it. 

I don't think the sensor would be malfunctioning and not set off a code. I could be wrong and the light just hasn't lit yet because it usually takes the ecu a while to see it. 

I've never experienced a problem with flooding... I've heard of stories where injectors are leaking and causing flooding. (I was asking before about smelling fuel). 

Another thing to check is your fuel pressure regulator.


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## Guest (Mar 1, 2003)

have u checked the fuel injectors? ohm readings should be in the 10-14 ohm range.just my .02


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## roadhawg (Oct 11, 2002)

I know this is a little late, however the sensor in the intake is the cts for the ecu, had mine go out also
Very much doubt fuel injectors, the car will run on three injectors just fine and have seen them run on just two. Although there will be a noticable miss


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2003)

Well, I am not sure what is going on. I did a cranking compression check, it had 80-95, and now appeared to have some fuel in there, no doubt from all the cranking. I pulled the fuse for the pump, and the ECT reading seemed to be real, if at 68* it should be 2300+ ohms and at 15* it was 4700. I am wondering if it was due to the extreme cold, and a heavier viscosity oil. Maybe it slowed the cranking, and drew enough amperage to the starter that the igintion spark was weak, and it flooded enough to gas wash the rings? I ended up cranking the piss out of it with the plugs out, then dripped some engine assembly oil in each hole to help seal things up. Then, I got it to run, ran fine, no codes. Who knows? I did change the oil back to synthetic 5/30, and it has been fine the last day. Starts right up, runs like a charm. Go figure.....Anyhow, thanks for all the help guys! It is appreciated.


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## Sherb (Sep 8, 2002)

I've seen this issue with other cars where the oil was too thick and the weather was cold. And from the lack of oil changes. You can also tell by the slow cranking. Sorry that I didn't see your post until now since I would've suggested the oil if air, fuel, and ignition wasn't an issue.


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## Guest (Mar 6, 2003)

on my 99 sentra the engine coolant temp sensor flooded my engine you can replace for about $25


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## Guest (Mar 13, 2003)

Sorry I might have some newbie questions. I'm new to automotives. Just bought a sentra 97 last month. I can't start my car now, thought it might have the same problem with Transman's.

I was trying to install a keyless/remote starter. It was not easy for me. It was not completely finished then we had to go out. I started the car. Then I heard the remote starter brain is clicking. (I think it's normal since I tried to program it and didn't quit the program mode.) I decided to disconnect it temporary. Then I made a mistake. I stopped the car and disconnected the brain. (The car probably ran for less than half a minute before I stopped it.) Then I can't start the car! Tried several times before we decided to bring friend's car to jump start. (since I used the car battery a lot during the installation.) Then it can't be jump started. The second day I brought the battery to sears and exchanged for a brand new battery. Still no luck. 

The starter is cranking. One guy came to help. He said it sounds like the engine is trying to keep up with. 

The third day I tried to do some diagnosis. I pulled out the spark plugs. Used the compression gauge to measure each cyclinder. well, the first one looks pretty good. It's above 120. The others are just like transman's. They are between 60-80. Then I cranked a lot leaving the plugs out. I dropped a little engine oil before I put those plugs back. Then I tried to start. Still no luck. I tried to pull out the sensors. well, they are pretty tight.

Now come the newbie questions:
1. Is engine oil engine assembly oil? How much do I need to help seal the cyclinder?

2. How can I know the gas has been cranked out if the problem is the flooding?

3. Is there any special tool to pull those sensors out? (Please, I need detail instructions. Don't want to damage those.)

4. I was trying to take out the distributor cap. well, it's really difficult to free the bottom screw. I used a short screw driver since the space is confined there. Am I right to do like that?

Thanks in advance.


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

I'm not touching that with a ten foot pole....


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

I think you forgot to connect some wires. I'm not very good with the ignition switch, but here's my view. When he key is on the 'ON' position, it alows the fuel, ignition and electronic systems to work. Then when you push it into the start position, it will start the initial cranking. I think you messed up the wires that keep the car on. It will crank, but there is nothing to keep the engine going. You're probably not getting any spark or fuel or both. I would check the wires you were messing with when you installed that remote start system.


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## Guest (Mar 14, 2003)

Thanks for the reply. I have double-checked all the wires. Actually I didn't disconnect any one. All I did is cutting out the wires' plastic layer and attach my wire onto the copper core. After it's installed, I started the car and then I immediately stopped it to disconnect the remote starter. After that, I can't start it.


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## Guest (Apr 16, 2003)

Finally got it done. I ended up replacing my fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor. Also cleaned my spark plugs.

But I still have a question. I checked my timing since I took the distributor off. From the haynes manual, the mark start at -5 degree from the far left if you face the pulley. My timing remains at the third notch which should be 5 degree if I keep the distributor at the original position. And the idle speed is about 740. But it's not correct according to the specification. I tried to turn the distributor clockwise(if you face the distributor). The timing mark will go to around 8 only after I turned the distributor quite a lot (almost to the end of clockwise.), which doesn't seem right. And the idle speed goes to 800-810.

I didn't disconnect any other wire or hose except the throttle position sensor. Haynes manual recommend to disconnect the engine fan. But I have already seen doing that without disconnecting any other thing. Am I right or wrong? What is a engine fan? Also, I heard that GA16 is kindly retard to timing advance, which means ecu could retard the timing by up to 10 degree if it detects any knocking. Is it why the timing is not sensitive to turning the distributor?


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## MarcwithSentra (Nov 1, 2005)

*99 Sentra with same problem?*

It has been several months since you posted the response below, did the problem reoccur or do you think reseating the spark plugs alone fixed it?

A couple of days ago I had filled up the tank on my 99 Sentra (the car has worked fine for years), and the following morning it wouldn't start. The starter would crank and radio/lights/etc showed the battery was fine (though I did try a jump to be sure), I also removed the hose at the top of the fuel filter and saw plenty of gas spurt when I cranked, so I have fuel. I then checked the spark- it occurred about each second per wire and was orange (not blue) when the gap was less than 1/4"; I thought this might indicate a weak spark and bad distributor, so I replaced the disributor and the rotor/cap but the car still will not start. So I'm now looking at the ETS and compression as you did. You also mentioned that a flooded engine might somehow lead to amperage drawn away and a waeak spark...could this be my case? What compression should I deem good (I assume the 80-95 you had was too low)?



Transman said:


> Well, I am not sure what is going on. I did a cranking compression check, it had 80-95, and now appeared to have some fuel in there, no doubt from all the cranking. I pulled the fuse for the pump, and the ECT reading seemed to be real, if at 68* it should be 2300+ ohms and at 15* it was 4700. I am wondering if it was due to the extreme cold, and a heavier viscosity oil. Maybe it slowed the cranking, and drew enough amperage to the starter that the igintion spark was weak, and it flooded enough to gas wash the rings? I ended up cranking the piss out of it with the plugs out, then dripped some engine assembly oil in each hole to help seal things up. Then, I got it to run, ran fine, no codes. Who knows? I did change the oil back to synthetic 5/30, and it has been fine the last day. Starts right up, runs like a charm. Go figure.....Anyhow, thanks for all the help guys! It is appreciated.


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## zoso1 (Apr 23, 2005)

QUOTE]A couple of days ago I had filled up the tank on my 99 Sentra (the car has worked fine for years), and the following morning it wouldn't start. The starter would crank and radio/lights/etc showed the battery was fine (though I did try a jump to be sure), I also removed the hose at the top of the fuel filter and saw plenty of gas spurt when I cranked, so I have fuel. I then checked the spark- it occurred about each second per wire and was orange (not blue) when the gap was less than 1/4"; I thought this might indicate a weak spark and bad distributor, so I replaced the disributor and the rotor/cap but the car still will not start. QUOTE]

My '98 200SX gave me fits a few times when it flat out refused to start. It was about 3-4 years old then, GA16DE motor, symptoms similar to above. A few times I was able to get it to start after a couple of minutes of cranking, but one time I had to have it towed to a shop because it simply would not fire at all. They suspected a flaky sensor, but basically just poked around at the wires for awhile and it suddenly started. 

After searching through the forums I came across the postings talking about these engines being susceptible to flooding. The worst case seems to be starting the car for a few seconds and turning it off - this very often causes it to flood the next time you try to start it. I've been careful to avoid doing this and have not had a problem for several years.

If it does flood, just pull the plugs and let it sit overnight as Transman advised earlier in this thread.


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