# CV axle R&R how to



## crazy4honda (Feb 24, 2004)

Hi. I'm currently on vacation visiting my parents, and discovered that my passenger side cv joints need replacing. Unfortunately, I left my service manual back at home and this is where I need your help. If someone would be kind enough to post a "how to" or direct me to a thread that tells how to replace the passenger CV axle shaft assembly, I would greatly appreciate it. I tried the search function but found nothing. Bonus points if you include torque values :loser:


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## FFDRFT200 (Nov 11, 2005)

crazy4honda said:


> Hi. I'm currently on vacation visiting my parents, and discovered that my passenger side cv joints need replacing. Unfortunately, I left my service manual back at home and this is where I need your help. If someone would be kind enough to post a "how to" or direct me to a thread that tells how to replace the passenger CV axle shaft assembly, I would greatly appreciate it. I tried the search function but found nothing. Bonus points if you include torque values :loser:


search around, youl find more than adequate info if you search the right areas


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## crazy4honda (Feb 24, 2004)

I've searched everything. There is info on the older models, but nothing on the B14 platform. Mine is a '95 200sx SE


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## makaveli (Oct 5, 2005)

crazy4honda said:


> I've searched everything. There is info on the older models, but nothing on the B14 platform. Mine is a '95 200sx SE


get the b-14 service manual...... at the top op the forum...... its for a 96, but cv joints shouold be the same


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## Kennizmo (Oct 17, 2005)

Its easy, very easy.

Loosen your hub nut before you lift the car off the ground. Take the wheel off, take off your caliper and rotor. We had to pull the ball joint down off the knuckle... I think thats what we pulled, damnit I cant remember... well, you'll see right off the bat what your gonna have to loosen up so you can get the axle at a good angle so you can pull it out of the hub. 

Once you get it out of the hub, pry the other end out of the tranny with a flathead. Make sure you have something under the tranny if you dont want to make a mess because fluid is going to start pouring out of it as soon as you take the axle out. Its good practice to replace the seal too but I never did on mine because Im so damn lazy, and it isnt leaking at all.

Then just stick your new one in the tranny and make sure it locks in place, and get the other side back in the hub and put everything back together. I had all the torque specs but I lost the paper unfortunatly. Make sure you dont bend the backing plate when your screwing with everything, otherwsie its going to drag on your rotors. And if your replacing both axles, *DONT pull both of them out at the same time*.

Im telling you all this from memory, since I just had to do both of mine and then the drivers side axle AGAIN 2 weeks after that because the damn outer joint came apart on my brand new axle. Hopefully I didnt forget anything, but its all pretty straight forward.

edit: I just remebered, the torque spec for the hub nut was somewhere around 150- 200ft/lb.Its kind of fuzzy but I definatly remeber 200 something as the max. This was info off Mitchell On Demand, not the FSM. Hopefully that helps a little.


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## crazy4honda (Feb 24, 2004)

Thanks for the help, Kennizmo. Someone PM'ed me stating that since i'm doing the passenger side i'll have to worry about some type of support bearing for the axle shaft that the driver's side doesn't have. Is there anything I need to know about this before I get started?


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## Twiz (Aug 24, 2004)

Loosen the hub nut - 32mm DEEP socket, remove the brake caliper from the wheel assembly (use a wire to suspend the caliper from the spring), take out the two bolts connecting the strut to the wheel assembly and work the cv axle out of the wheel hub. Don't leave any seals or seal covers(metallic) on the old axle. Remove them and attach them onto your new axle. The old and new cv axle have to be identical... put them next to each other and compare. Torque the hub nut to 150.


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## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

my 97 passenger axle did not have a support bearing(carrier bearing)? You can get a new reman. cv axle for about 45 dallors from autozone. which is about 75-80 with core charges included. you get your core back when they get your used cv axle back.

the tie rod end has to be removed from the hub. mark it with tape or a paint pen so you don't offset your steering wheel. also mark the location of the strut to your hub so your alingment won't be off to much when reassembling everything. you can leave the ball joint connected to the hub but you'll need a helper to push down on your control arm to get the axle to clear your hub. plan for about a 3hr job if its your first time.


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## crazy4honda (Feb 24, 2004)

Thanks for all the detailed help guys. I'm heading to my dad's garage right now.


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## Kennizmo (Oct 17, 2005)

There is no support bearing, and dont remove the tie rod end. You just have to pull down real damn hard on the lower control arm (after you take off the nut holding the ball joint down) to make it possible to get the axle out.


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## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

the fsm says unbolt the tie rod end? its what i did after fighting with it for about a hour. and it was out in like 2-5 mins. after it was unbolted.i still had a helper stand on the control arm to give me the rome needed. besides you need the extra clearance so not to damage the wheel bearing seal or the threads on the cv axle. anyway good luck.


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## Kennizmo (Oct 17, 2005)

The fsm says that? 

Mitchell on Demand says specifically not to unbolt the tie rod end. I never did either and had no problems.

Oh well, doesn't really matter


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## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

cool. I guess i just didn't have enough ouph to move the control arm enough. alldata didn't say anything about it either, but the fsm does. weird huh?. true as long as it gets done. thats all that matters


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## Beltane70 (Jul 17, 2002)

This guide makes me wish that I had the proper tools to do this repair myself, as my '96 GXE is in need of a new CV axle assembly. Since it's been quite a while since I've needed this type of work to a car, I can't remember how much it costs to have the work done in a shop.


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