# altima 1995 wont start



## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

:newbie: 
Altima (SE, GXE, GX, I dont now the car is repaint)
2.4 L 4 Cyl. 206000Km
When I start, I hear the starter and the motor turning but it never start.
try to boost nothing better

I change gaz filter
Use test light check a lot of fuse all OK
I dont hear the 2 secondes prime gas pump
take out gaz pump relay. (the blue relay under the hood) I test it working
Got fire in coil and Sparkplug cable
I clean the distributor for oil leak, the rotor and cap.
After that I hear the Gaz pump and the car start.
the car start two time and next day dont want to start.
All electrical are fonctionnal (radio, blower, light, miror...)
I by the Haynes book but I dont now where to start now ?


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

With the Haynes book I found that I have a code 34 Knock Sensor.
I think I have a lot to learn


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

The Knock Sensor is a secondary sensor which indicates there is something else going on with your car. So bascially don't replace the knock sensor its working fine.
Sounds like your starter is giving you the problems.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

God!
I forget to say the car is cranking but wont start


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Still it might be the starter. I'd look there first


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## mird-OC (Nov 28, 2006)

I had what sounds like exactly the same problem with my Bluebird (Japanese Altima) one morning. I too noticed the fuel pump was not priming which I thought was very strange, and in addition to this, it's kind of hard to explain, but although it definitely seemed to be cranking, it just didn't quite sound/felt right... like something wasn't quite engaging properly (it was cranking too easily or something). With my reasonably limited mechanical experience (and already running late for work at this stage) I tried all manner of things to get it started. After a couple hours of tinkering with everything I could think of I had almost given up but on a whim I finally managed to get it started, although I still don't know exactly what caused the problem.

It was after I noticed the strange nature of the cranking I just tried repeated flicking the ignition from off to start briefly to see if I could get a more normal crank. After about 10 short bursts on the starter it cranked distinctively differently, much more like normal, and then with my foot on the thottle I kept the starter turning over for about 15 seconds until the engine finally fired up with a cough and a splutter. It was obviously running quite rich for whatever reason and I had to keep the revs up quite high to keep it from stalling, and I noticed a rather large cloud of smoke had belched from the exhaust. After a minute or so I slowly eased off the throttle and the engine smoothed out to a normal idle, and it was like nothing had ever happened.

A similar problem cropped up a few months later, but I've made a habit of listening for the fuel pump and making sure it primes completely before attempting to start and as it stands the problem hasn't occurred since.

So I don't know if this is of any use to you at all, but I thought it's worth a mention.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I got a code 34 Knock Sensor what this think doing ? could it stall my altima ?


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## Darktide (Jul 29, 2004)

nah, a knock sensor is just telling you that your motor is giving off too much vibration (knock). Its mainly there to let you know something is amiss.

Check your distributor, take the cap off, then remove the rotor and check the distributor thoroughly for any presence of oil. Its very common for the oil seals to let go and cover the sensor inside. It could be your problem. 

Other than that I'd do some common maintenance items 

Cap
Rotor
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Plugs (if you're over 70K miles)
Wires (if you're over 70k miles)

They're always a good idea. They might not help the "no start" condition but they could be worn down. Do the plugs especially if there is oil in the distributor. You'll have to replace the distributor if there is oil and the plugs will undoubtedly be fouled up.

Hope that helps

Darktide


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I have the distributor, I get off the rotor and the plastic cap under the rotor and there is no oil. Is it possible fuel pmp working intermittent ?
I recharge the battery car.
I found on the net there is sometime problem with relay harness blue and green.
I know my relay is okay butis it possible the connector under the hood is defect ?


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Do as Darktide said..
Remove the pastic cap on the distributor inside you'll see and encoder wheel and sensor. DON'T TOUCH IT. If there is oil present in that area you found the source of your problems.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I had to do this twice before, unplug wire, take distributor cap and rotor out, unclip the other plastic cap. I could see the wheel and sensor, I cleaned that place even if there was no oil.
Its done and there is no oil.:fluffy:


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## Sticky0825 (Dec 2, 2006)

This just happened to me..Where the enigine would turn and what ever and it happend to be the whole ignition distributor had to be replaced...the whole distributor cost about 250 to 350 dollars.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I'm gone a do that and see if it start.
Somebody teel that I have to do the timing after I change the distributor. Really ?
With -5 C° outside it will be very fun


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

drizzt said:


> I'm gone a do that and see if it start.
> Somebody teel that I have to do the timing after I change the distributor. Really ?
> With -5 C° outside it will be very fun



Hang on, before you replace the distributor, I'd absolutley make sure that the problem, because of the cost.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I discover someting new with my problem, I plug my test light directly to the gas pump conector and there electricity when i turn the key to ON position. Even if something else could stop the pump, I think I got my problem


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

I would say it is an issue with the fuel pump. If possible crimp off the fuel return (it comes out of the fuel pressure regulator) and try to start it. Or if you can get an inline fuel pressure tester to measure the pressure.

Troy


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

Hi everybody!

I install a new gas pump and car running well now, thanks for your help, I learn a lot of think it will be helpful in future.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

I buy the gas pump to the junk yard, it cost me 85$. its a Bosh pump and she is very quiet.


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## Predator_CITF (Jan 10, 2007)

Perhaps your engine is finally dieing? 206000km is a lot man.


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## drizzt (Nov 25, 2006)

Its my second, I only use it to go working. My girl friend use the good car toyota corolla 2003, its my second brand new corolla and ist a real good car.


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

drizzt said:


> I install a new gas pump and car running well now, thanks for your help, I learn a lot of think it will be helpful in future.


How did you make sure that fuel pump was fault? Thanks!
p.s. I also have car starting problem and like to make sure if pump needs to be replaced.
Without being sure, I have hesitation - it is costly replacement..


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The best way to test a fuel pump for proper operation is to perform a fuel pressure test. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the output of the fuel filter and the fuel rail.
The readings at idle for your car should approximately be as follows:

with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi
with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

rogoman said:


> The best way to test a fuel pump for proper operation is to perform a fuel pressure test. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the output of the fuel filter and the fuel rail.
> The readings at idle for your car should approximately be as follows:
> 
> with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi
> with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi


Thanks. But problem is, my car wont start. I am not sure that with no-start you can properly perform this test..
I appreciate Any suggestion and share of experience.


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

Zurab said:


> Thanks. But problem is, my car wont start. I am not sure that with no-start you can properly perform this test..
> I appreciate Any suggestion and share of experience.


p.s. to be clear, in ON position, I hear pump is pumping the fuel. I checked all fuses, relays. Some wirings. I have spark as well. In stalled new spark plug wires. Car do cranks, belt rotates --> so starter seems to be engaged. I am thinking that IACV can be stack? But until removing it [sort of hard removal], I'd like to exclude other possibilities (which are simpler to do in this cold wheather  )
Also, I already removed injector rail, cleaned injectors and reinstalled. 

any ideas appreciated


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

p.s.p.s. also, replaced old fuel filter with new one. 
Cleaned injectors, tested (they spray well) and reinstalled.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Zurab said:


> p.s. to be clear, in ON position, I hear pump is pumping the fuel. I checked all fuses, relays. Some wirings. I have spark as well. In stalled new spark plug wires. Car do cranks, belt rotates --> so starter seems to be engaged. I am thinking that IACV can be stack? But until removing it [sort of hard removal], I'd like to exclude other possibilities (which are simpler to do in this cold wheather  )
> Also, I already removed injector rail, cleaned injectors and reinstalled.
> 
> any ideas appreciated


The fuel injectors may not be getting pulsed by the ECU; you can test each injector with a "NOID light probe tester" to see if it's pulsing. The probe kit can be puchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com. Each injector has two wires; one is the signal wire and the other is a constant 12volts; test each injector for 12v with a multimeter.


Zurab said:


> Thanks. But problem is, my car wont start. I am not sure that with no-start you can properly perform this test..
> I appreciate Any suggestion and share of experience.


You *CAN* test the fuel pump with the fuel pressure gauge while the engine is not running. Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the output of the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the *RUN* position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a *static* reading.


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

rogoman, thanks for prompt reply.
I forgot to write, that I done tests with injectors. Before rail total re-installation, connected all 4 injectors to the power feed. During crank they all spray fuel (in 4 plastic bottles attached to injectors' 'noses'. So, I avoided to pour fuel around..).
Also I measured their resistance and reading was R=10 oms. So, injectors look fine.
I'll do pressure check between fuel pump and rail at ON position. Will post result here.
p.s. Can fuel pressure regulator (FPR) be tested too at ON position? Can fault FPR be the reason for the no start?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

With the engine shut off, if the fuel pressure gauge shows a good static pressure, that shows that the FPR is maintaining the pressure, meaning it's OK up to that point; further testing of the FPR should be performed once you're able to start the engine. If the fuel pressure is very low or zero, then the FPR or the fuel pump is bad.


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## Zurab (Feb 25, 2020)

Good day everybody,

Today I done some fuel pressure measurements. Installed pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel rail [just after the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)]. With key ON position, in first 5 seconds there was 40 psi [bit more than that]. But, after it dropped below 20 psi [even keeping ON position]. When I was cranking, right after that 5 seconds, then 40 psi was maintained (but no start).
But, without crank, pressure drops fast around 20 psi. Then, right after FPR I shut the return line hose [by ‘clamp’ type devise], and at ON position 50 psi pressure checked. And it maintained for a while even after going to the key OFF position.
With this steady pressure regime, I did crank but did not manage to start.
I replaced FPR (had another one), but got exactly same results.
Definitely, there is pressure leak somewhere after FPR. However, since with return hose shut the pressure maintained and there was no start, I am not certain to blame only the fuel pump. There should be other problem too.
Now, I am thinking to try this way of starting:




If car will start, then probably culprit is the fuel pump? But if still no start, then there should be other problem(s) too.

I also saw this video:




According to that logic and things I done, my injectors have no leak.
I also exclude FPR, because both can not be fault.
Any comments on these?

P.S. Since we had good sunny day today, I took the chance and cleaned throttle body. Also mass airflow sensor [although the latter is not major for car starting]. The did not help so far.


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