# swirl control valve question



## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

would a bad scv make my truck run poorly only 5 min. after starting it up? the truck is throwing some codes. I have disconnected the egr valve to rule out that possibility. The codes read: TID-31-CID-OC (failed) TID-34-CID-OC (failed) I believe these are egr codes, but please correct me if im wrong. Also codes: PO340 Cam position sensor, A Circut (bank 1 or single sensor). P1130 manufacture controlled fuel air meter. Im under the impression that the cam pos sensor is because whatever other problem is making the motor skip around... I disconnected what i believe is the swirl control valve but the problem still occurred. any advice would help


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

pisnnisn said:


> would a bad scv make my truck run poorly only 5 min. after starting it up? the truck is throwing some codes. I have disconnected the egr valve to rule out that possibility. The codes read: TID-31-CID-OC (failed) TID-34-CID-OC (failed) I believe these are egr codes, but please correct me if im wrong. Also codes: PO340 Cam position sensor, A Circut (bank 1 or single sensor). P1130 manufacture controlled fuel air meter. Im under the impression that the cam pos sensor is because whatever other problem is making the motor skip around... I disconnected what i believe is the swirl control valve but the problem still occurred. any advice would help


Wow! Bunches of problems. If you could clear all the codes, run the truck a few days and see what codes actually come back, that would help with the diagnosis, but ...if it won't run well enough to be driven a while then you have to start somewhere replacing parts. 

Cam Sensors are pretty high priority on most cars because the ECU uses that signal to time the fuel injection. It sure can cause some problems ...but that P1130 for the Fuel Air Meter is usually much greater priority for concern.

On a side note, just disconnecting the EGR Valve won't keep it from causing a drivability problem if its pintle is stuck open. That is like an intake vacuum leak and the fuel system can't compensate for that much possible loss. 

I don't know anything about an SCV, ...my background training isn't specific to Nissan so I've never heard of that valve, BUT ...I did some research and found these links mostly on other Nissan models.

P1130 swirl control valve code - Google Search

BTW, what year truck, and which engine are we working on?


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## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

97 hb ka24e . New Distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, crank pos sensor. I put a penny in the flange where the exhaust enters the egr thinking it would shut it down. Is that enough to rule the egr out. I had the vaccum hose disconnected and plugged with a screw but that didnt help the only thing that would help would be to finger the diaphram wile cranking. Im so fed up and lost with this thing I want to drive it off a clif. after i plugged the pipe going into the egr the truck ran good i drove it over 100 mi on a hot day (75 f.) and no prob. now a week later it wont go for more than 1 mi without crapping out. I guess ineed to start eliminating possibilities.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

pisnnisn said:


> 97 hb ka24e . New Distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, crank pos sensor. I put a penny in the flange where the exhaust enters the egr thinking it would shut it down. Is that enough to rule the egr out. I had the vaccum hose disconnected and plugged with a screw but that didnt help the only thing that would help would be to finger the diaphram wile cranking. Im so fed up and lost with this thing I want to drive it off a clif. after i plugged the pipe going into the egr the truck ran good i drove it over 100 mi on a hot day (75 f.) and no prob. now a week later it wont go for more than 1 mi without crapping out. I guess ineed to start eliminating possibilities.


Yeah, that should have the EGR disabled. Now, you need to pull the codes, and if it were me I would do a plug check just after bringing the engine up to operating temp and it starts running poorly. The spark plug color will give a good indicator as to whether the engine is running too rich or too lean.


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## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

do i need new plugs to do this test? can i disconnect the neg. battery terminal to reset the computer and then warm it up and plug it in or does it matter? it is strange how it has to do with temperature and hitting bumps at higher speeds. its like once it occurs it is a chain reaction with movement and vibration until i smooth the truck out. I have stripped back distributor harness cover and checked for breaks. I took the dist. back out and checked the coil pack connections one was a little corroded but i sanded it down and it didnt help.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

pisnnisn said:


> do i need new plugs to do this test? can i disconnect the neg. battery terminal to reset the computer and then warm it up and plug it in or does it matter? it is strange how it has to do with temperature and hitting bumps at higher speeds. its like once it occurs it is a chain reaction with movement and vibration until i smooth the truck out. I have stripped back distributor harness cover and checked for breaks. I took the dist. back out and checked the coil pack connections one was a little corroded but i sanded it down and it didnt help.


Well, the plugs need to be good and hopefully firing, not already fouled, so new one's might be in order depending on the conditions. Even looking at them all as they are right now might give some clues when paired up with how the truck is running at this time.

Disconnecting the battery on an OBDII compliant vehicle, 96 and on, usually will not clear the codes. You can try it and see if the Check Engine Light comes right back on but OBDII cars and trucks typically hold the ECU memory regardless of battery supply.

Electronics that run our vehicles are sometimes sensitive to heat, cold, and vibration once they start giving trouble. I'd check and clean all engine ground connections ...at the Engine Block, Intake Manifold, and Firewall ...especially the connections at the Battery Terminals.

Another nice test would be to swap the distributor out with another known good one, but just keep that in mind. Check all the Engine's electrical connections everywhere first. Get back here when you can with returning codes or pics of the plugs so we can help you determine what's going on.

-TRM


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## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

the truck runs good when the motor is cool (it can be hot out but the motor must be cool) but withing the first 5 minutes of idleing in the driveway it will start to skip on its own. when i drive the truck it will buck and fart over bumps too. when it is cool i can start it up and let it idle for 5 minutes if it doesnt start to skip on its own i can stand in front of the truck and use my arms to jossle it side to side... this will make it skip and cut out. Ive checked a bunch of connections while it is idleing and warm but I cant find one that consistantly makes it act up. Ive read the codes a bunch but those codes are there when it seems to run fine. Is there a possibility that it is something that the computer cant sense like crap in the tank, dirty intake manifold etc.? thanks


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Any strange noise or change in sound from the fuel pump when all this happens? 'Cause it's sounding like symptoms one would expect if there were a bunch of dirt, debris, and/or water in the fuel tank or maybe something wrong with the fuel pump pick-up. Without reading the entire thread again, have you already been into the tank looking for anything wrong there?


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## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

once it is warm and has crapped out a time or two it will crank over then the motor will rev to 1700 rpm like when it starts up normally but then it will drop right back to 0. I can pump the gas a little and it will sputter a little more but it wont make it run at all. once it starts to crap out... it is very stubborn until it has 2-3 hrs to cool off. I thought i was good because i do my own repairs and brake jobs and stuff but this is very agrivating.


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## pisnnisn (Dec 7, 2008)

I have not been in the tank yet. I have checkec fuel pressure and it is good when i turn the key to on position. It does drop slowly when turned back off but i think that is normal. what is the fuel pick up? when it runs like crap it doesn't smell like raw fuel, sothis makes me think that it is losing fuel.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Again, request for plug check!


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