# Motor Mounts



## Overlooked (Jul 10, 2002)

I just replaced my stock motor mounts with Energy Suspension. These are a big help in stiffness of the motor. The car is more resonsive on shifts. You can even tell the difference when you start the car. Good investment for $35.00


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

*i have those too....*

i installed mine too and it helps out, but i still have to dyno it...


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

How is this going to help out the HP??


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

when you dyno a fwd car, the engine and transaxle tends to rock fore and aft, this movement is wasted engine power that is supposed to go to the ground, not the rocking, with the motor mounts, the engine/transaxle assembly moves less, transfers the power to the chassis, therefore sending it to the wheels and then the ground, also it helps eliminate the risk of the transaxle housing hitting up against, what the hell was that, i forgot, crap, whatever it is and over due time will crack the transaxle, but the downside is that the ride is not a comfy, and when you slightly turn the steering wheel while idling, the vibration trasnfers to the steering column making a rattling/vibrating sound............but it takes off better now......with the factory 14 with kumhos 195/55 r14's of course......


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

in a way, it doesn't really add hp, it just sends it to where it should go.......heck, i like it..........


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

Yeah i know about what they do. I heard some people dont mind the extra noise and vibrations because they do get better take offs and they know that their engine isnt moving around as much.


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## Niss200SXGTR (May 31, 2002)

did YOU isntall them, or have a shop install them, i'd like the challenge of isntallign my own... but.. i dont have the resources to do it


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## Overlooked (Jul 10, 2002)

There is alittle more vibration but the power is to the floor now.

Kind of a bitch to install. You will need a big vise.


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## Green_Lantern (Jun 6, 2002)

Stupid question here: are the motor mounts only for the manual? Or are they for both the manual and autos(yeah, I know)??? Reason is I saw some motor mounts for other cars thats only for the manuals.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

motor mounts/inserts are a great bang for the buck upgrade...the give the car a much better feel.


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

i installed my mounts myself, give or take 45 to 1 hour, had to rush, shop was about to close but got them on perfect, and yes, my baby responds better from then on, but yeah many vibrations, almost threw up the first day...........too much....got used to it.....


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## Guest (Sep 19, 2002)

Is there anyway to reduce the noise???


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## MarkSR20 (Sep 17, 2002)

yeah, lay dynomat everywhere!!!! Thats about it on that one! Try JWT Solid mounts, then you will not think of noise with the ES mm inserts ever again!


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## V i V i D 200sx (Sep 17, 2002)

the reason the stock mounts are so soft is to reduce the noise. noise is just a bi-product of having the stiffer mounts. deal w/ it if you want the performance. haha... BTW have you ever felt how heavy dynamat is? and its expensive as hell, too! good thing i work @ best buy tho, a $40 2'x2' roll of xtreme dynamat is only about $12 for me. haha. but i wouldnt add any of that stuff to my ride, that one roll is like 5 lbs!


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

> but yeah many vibrations, almost threw up the first day


really? i have the front and rear mounts(inserts) in my 97 and its not that harsh....but then again the open downpipe makes everything resonate


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2002)

*Re: i have those too....*



azkicker0027 said:


> *i installed mine too and it helps out, but i still have to dyno it... *


Motor mounts won't help your HP. You'll *FEEL* like it helps but a dyno won't show that


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2002)

MarkSR20 said:


> *yeah, lay dynomat everywhere!!!! Thats about it on that one! Try JWT Solid mounts, then you will not think of noise with the ES mm inserts ever again! *


Heh... I don't think you ever sat/rode in my car with the original Place mounts, did you Mark? Those things were wicked. I have tons of stuff in the front end of my car really loose because of those stupid things!


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## Yosho (Aug 11, 2002)

javierb14 said:


> *
> 
> really? i have the front and rear mounts(inserts) in my 97 and its not that harsh....but then again the open downpipe makes everything resonate *



LOL... I just fixed that same problem after 6 months of living with it. No more Cesna noises for me. Yeah, after living with that, the ES inserts are nothing. I just installed all 4 engine mount inserts. Big difference. It really made me appreciate how sloppy the stock mounts were after nearly 100k on the car.

BTW, the downpipe breaks a lot on our cars... it's right at the 2 to 1 pipe weld area. I figure it's caused by the engine slopping around enough causing excess stress on the down pipe. The new mount inserts should fix this problem so that it doesn't happen again.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

true, the OEM downpipe uses a ball and socket joint to compensate for movement...i dont think they are as forgiving as the braided flex sections. oh ya, i dont have a broken OEM downpipe....just a open 2.5" downpipe off the turbo


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

*Re: Re: i have those too....*



02 ALMERA said:


> *
> 
> Motor mounts won't help your HP. You'll *FEEL* like it helps but a dyno won't show that *


Thats not entirely true. They wont give you more horsepower but they will allow you to put more horsepower to the wheels.


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## Guest (Sep 21, 2002)

*Re: Re: Re: i have those too....*



Teknokid said:


> *
> 
> Thats not entirely true. They wont give you more horsepower but they will allow you to put more horsepower to the wheels. *


I disagree. I have yet to see proof that motor mounts will yield more HP to the wheels. You're being fooled by SOTP


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## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

Well, he's sort of right.. but so are you. Law of Conservation of Energy means all the energy within the system is conserved. Energy that went in also goes out. On gear shifts, launches, or anything that torques the engine quickly causing the motor to rock, with sloppy motor mounts a small amount of mechanical energy creating a torque force (force in a circle) leaving the crank that should be going through the drive train to the wheels is actually being used as kinetic energy to rock the engine back and forth. With stiffer motor mounts less energy is wasted rocking the engine in the engine compartment and is instead all sent to the wheels. It's not creating more power, but more efficiently using all the power it already has. Hope this helps.


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## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

I think the issue here may be the difference between getting power to the wheels vs. power to the ground. These are two very different things.
The mounts would help it get to the ground due to reduced wheel hop and the hp wasted(felt) moving the motor and tranny. As for getting it to the wheels... Nahh


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

i found out about the mounts on sentra.net, importpartsplus, and scc, so think and read and write whatever ya'll want, but the inserts and dogbone do something more for the amount they ask, and IMO, it's a very, very good deal.........


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## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

No doubt azkicker0027 about bang for buck on the mounts.


Let us all think about this though.. When is the engine wasting its hp moving the motor??? Only during the first few moments of the "pull"(dyno or road), after that it more or less stabilizes. So yes you will feel/see it "off the line". There is no way it will increase hp to the wheels. I have never seen a motor mount variable in a power equation, has anyone else?

To me the advantages of stiffer mounts are these:
Less stress on other parts.
Less wheel hop.
Yes, more "pop".
Longer life.
Would help keep my damn GA from bouncing off my strut tower brace.


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

purge valve on the strut tower bar???
and also the mounts prohibit transaxle damage......


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## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

azkicker0027 said:


> *purge valve on the strut tower bar???
> and also the mounts prohibit transaxle damage...... *


Ding, ding, ding... We have a winner. LOL
I have relocated it lower now though, and well.. took a hammer to one of the braces under the hood(me so ghetto), but thats another story. Anyway, yeah thats one of my thoughts about the mounts(tranny damage).


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

do you know how much energy it takes to compress or displace those mounts enough to make a difference? for example, i know of a few big whp turbo supras that have the stock "rubber coupling" connecting the driveshaft to the rear diff. and these things are making 500+ftlb of torque at the wheels. 

the only reall way to test would be to dyno a car with the mounts and with out em. they do make driving the car more fun though


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## Yosho (Aug 11, 2002)

I can't see a mount changing peak horsepower, but I can see it changing the curve every so slightly, especially off idle in the lower rpms.


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## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

And the reason for that is what I said in my post.. but I'm sure you guys have learned by now not to read my posts because they're so lengthy and boring. I fall asleep writing them sometimes. Oh well.


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## jon_Gee (Aug 7, 2002)

Here's a n00b question for you... 

What does it really take to replace the mounts? I always assumed you'd need to lift the engine, but i saw Overlooked say something about a vise (although a big one, heh). 

Using my skills in logic and collegology, i am assuming this means you may be able to replace them by lifting the engine at each point with a vise, and then replacing that mount, as opposed to lifting the engine with heavier equipment.
How am i doing here?


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## Guest (Sep 22, 2002)

javierb14 said:


> *the only reall way to test would be to dyno a car with the mounts and with out em. they do make driving the car more fun though *


I'd *LOVE* to see this done sometime... who knows, maybe I'd be proven wrong (but I doubt it


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## Guest (Sep 22, 2002)

jon_Gee said:


> *Here's a n00b question for you...
> 
> What does it really take to replace the mounts? I always assumed you'd need to lift the engine, but i saw Overlooked say something about a vise (although a big one, heh).
> 
> ...


No, he meant that he used a vice to actually replace the rubber in the mount itself. That's another major PITA factor in replacing the mounts... not just getting the new mount into the jacket but also getting the old one out! 

To replace the mounts, you'll need (at the very least) a jack so you can support the engine at the corner of the mount that you are replacing. A hoist makes it easier so you can just support the whole engine while replacing them but how many people have hoists sitting around?


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## Yosho (Aug 11, 2002)

You need some basic hand tools (assorted metric sockets and wrenches), a large floor jack, lot's of patience, and some simple mechanical know how (not much).

It's basically a really easy upgrade... it just takes some grunt work to get it done. 

You don't really need a bench vise (although it's useful). You can just use the ghetto press method of jacking another car up and placing the bushing beneath it's tire... letting the car down and using the tire to press the new bushing in. It works great actually.


If you're serious about this, I'm sure we can walk you through it...


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

or.....
raise up car on lift.......
removed splashguards and fancy under engine covers.........
support oil pan with block of wood and screw jack.........
loosen longitudinal crossmember, 4 14's or 16's, (help)........
removed rear bolt on rear mount and front bolts, more than 1, on front........
remove front dogbone mount and get ready to press out old mounts and force the crap out of the new stiffer ones into the dogbone.......
slightly spread rear mount bracket to accomodate for rear mount inserts on both sides......
cram rear mount with inserts.......
align bolt holes by whatever means possible........
reinstall other removed components......
if i missed anything........feel free to add.....


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2002)

azkicker0027 said:


> *loosen longitudinal crossmember, 4 14's or 16's, (help)........
> *


How sad is this... I didn't really follow anything else you said (man, am I TIRED!!!) but I know they're 14MM bolts that you're talking about


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

like i mentioned, "or", as in "if you have access to a vehicle lift, that this would be the way to do energy suspension motor mounts in ga16" kinda thing......as in no jackstands, and can safely walk under vehicle........because yeah, i don't think even i can do this with the car supported by 2 2 1/4 ton jackstands.....


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## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

do manual transmission cars have 3 motor mounts? compared to a auto tranny car that have 4 right?


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

manual or automatic, it doesn't matter, they all have 4 motor mounts, 2 longitudinal and 2 transverse..........


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## Guest (Sep 29, 2002)

All I know is that I replaced my motor mounts on my Jeep with urethane one like the ES and when I am at a stop I can't even heat my self think from all the vibes. Cool for a dirt playing Jeep. Not for my daily driver/wannabe racer Nissan. Show me better autox times and i'll think about it.


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## jon_Gee (Aug 7, 2002)

does the $35.- motivational engineering mount set include all 4 mounts? i saw a list somewhere that said $35 for "left and right", and had separate "front and rear" set for $18.-

thought that was interesting. if i come arcoss the site again, ill post it.
otherwise, wheres a good site for ordering the mounts?


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## Yosho (Aug 11, 2002)

No, ES sells them in set's of 2. There is the front and back mounts in one set... and the left and right mounts in the other set.

Some people choose to run just the front and back mount inserts as they go a long way to fixing the engine slop without giving you a LOT more vibration in the cabin. If you decide to go with both sets (all 4 mounts) then you'll get more vibration... some people hate this and other's don't care. Using all 4 mounts is often listed as "Race Only". I have no problem with all 4 mounts in a daily driver... but that's just my personal taste. It doesn't bother me. On the other hand, I know a few people that freak out every time something rattles or sqeaks in their cars (even when no one else can hear it)... so it's really all about personal preference.

Check out www.suspension.com for prices... they were the lowest I could find and I've had 2 good orders from them. I know several other people that have used them as well and have had good experiences.


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## sentragtr20 (Jun 8, 2002)

Can you tell me the mounts went. I bought a set and was taken them to the press and realized that the big mount was too big to fit in the front/pass mount. I also have two smaller mounts. Where do these go??


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## Yosho (Aug 11, 2002)

I'll be happy to help you... 

What mounts did you buy? Just 2 or all 4?

As far as the Pass side mount. The new mount will fit, but it takes some work. You'll need to first remove the old mount and cut away the thin metal ring that's inside the mount. After you do that, you'll want to really lube up the new poly mount so you can press it in. I used kitchen sink dish soap. It did a good job and I was able to wash away the excess after the mount was finished.


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## sentragtr20 (Jun 8, 2002)

I think I bought the two pake. The big mount and two other about the size of the tranny mount.How do those go in. I see that the fit together but the middle of the mount will be hollow.


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