# IACV-FICD Soleniod Valve needed



## Guest (Jan 28, 2003)

I know I have made a post on this already, but too be honest I am real miffed that I own one of the rarest cars in the UK and found it impossible too track down another Nissan 200SX from a scrapyard. They also make this model in the states, accept it is a 2ltr engine compared too mine being a 1.8ltr. I am sure the throttle body on the senta is the same as mine and I bet they got loads of smashed up sentras in the USA. As I already said I am not willing too pay nissan £160 for a IACV-FICD Soleniod Valve which comprises of a special tentioned spring and a metal shuttle valve and thats it, it screws into the throttle body and has a blue plastic coated plug connector. I have heard the lamba sensor goes after 10000K is this true and would it effect my car on a cold start? only £25 too buy  As it has been mild weather of late its been starting first time, so it is related too a cold start problem, as in maybe the engine is not getting enough fuel too run and idle fast until the engine has warmed up. when it warmed up it runs very smooth and has loads of torque it really goes as in pulling you back in the seat. So come one guys help me out PLEASE.  I am knackered without this part, and one of you must know where too get one from a scrappy.

Just send me an e-mail too [email protected] ok


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## hpro123 (Apr 30, 2002)

Blade,

Idle issues and cold-warm conditions in the engine can be tough to troubleshoot so do not despair, lots of people have had similar problems. The following 2 links:

http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_iacv.html
http://www.se-r.net/engine/cold_idle_fix.html

may help you check and "repair" the gizmo yourself. Check other pages in se-r.net as well. You will find information regarding almost every condition you may encounter. 

So, leave a weekend free, get the necessary gaskets, tools or whatver and you will probably do it yourself with not much trouble.

As far as the lamda sensor is concerned, it does not work at all during cold starts. There is some period of time (I think 30"-1 minute) until it is warmed up by its internal heater and only then does the ECU start "listening" to it. If your engine has over 100K miles though, it is a good preemptive action to replace it (and keep the old one in case it is not shot).

Chris


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## Guest (Jan 29, 2003)

Thanks for your reply I removed the soleniod valve and applied 12 volts too the connector and it sucked the metal plunger back inside the soleniod like it was a magnet.(So we know this is ok) The major prob here is when my mate was looking at this part last year, he lost the spring from inside the solenoid unit its self. Now you can see why I don't want too pay Nissan £160 for a spring, they wont sell it seperate.  Is it possible too use a spring from a pen or am I up the creak without a paddle. I did a voltage check on the plug and no voltage was present so the soleniod valve is not operating as it has no power going too it. I gather the spring is there to allow the plunger too bob backwards and forwards. Is there voltage there all the time, or only in certain cases? I have started her up and no voltage is being delivered too this solenoid valve which in the UK its called "Idle air control valve-Fast Idle control device" IACV-FICD. I am damn sure there must be a break in the loom, cus if the ECU was faulty, everything would be problomatic. I think if I can sort a spring out and get power running too the solenoid valve my cold starts will be a thing of the past is it possible I am right?

I would post a clear pic so you can see what I am on about, but it wont let me paste a pic in here so give me your e-mail address and I will send it


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## hpro123 (Apr 30, 2002)

OK, post the pic and we'll take it from there.

Chris


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