# no idle



## Craigpre1 (May 27, 2005)

I am trying to fix my 78 510wgn, it won't idle. The car does every thing else smooth, just no idle. I checked the fuel lines and the vacume lines and nothing, next I am rebuilding the carb., has anyone else has the same problem.

The other question I have is about the smog pump that is on this car, what it is and how do I remove it from the system. The belt that runs that and the air conditioning has been removed.

Thanks


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## 510Mods (Feb 21, 2005)

It could be a vacuum leak. Spray carb cleaner around the base of it. If it revs up then its a leak. They usually go away above idle speed.

Or you have the normal problem with those stupid carbs. I have went through 4 carbs before I found one that works. They are not very good. If they are good, then they will last forever until you backfire or clog a filter. I just bought a Weber DGV 32/36 carb and adapter for my Datsun. They work perfect and last forever. I use them for all my cars. Weber makes the Edelbrock carb, which is rock solid. The kit with the adapter, carb, and linkage will run from $250-$400 depending on where you get them. Weber factory is backordered right now for 3 months on them. 

Now the smog pump, you can unbolt all that stuff off. The metal lines that go into the top of the exhaust, you can let them be for now until you can get an older manifold to replace it. But you can take the big tubing from the round piece on top near the carb, thats the check valve that only let air go into the manifold and not out. The only thing you will really need if you have it, is the vacuum line that goes to the distributor.


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## Craigpre1 (May 27, 2005)

I am going to rebuild the carb. this weekend, and remove the smog pump. Thank you for your help.


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## 510Mods (Feb 21, 2005)

I will warn ya. You may be wasting time on the rebuild, maybe not. Even a new one could be driven 100 miles then crap out on ya. There is some kind of gremlin that is in them carbs. I have 5 of them right now that need a rebuild, 2 are brand new. For trouble free operation, go with the Weber. You get some better power too, and an electric choke (manual also). The only thing is run-on, cause there is no cutt-off solenoid, so you have to clutch it sometimes to kill it after.


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## roadkingsrule (Jun 28, 2005)

*510 idle problem*



510Mods said:


> It could be a vacuum leak. Spray carb cleaner around the base of it. If it revs up then its a leak. They usually go away above idle speed.
> 
> Or you have the normal problem with those stupid carbs. I have went through 4 carbs before I found one that works. They are not very good. If they are good, then they will last forever until you backfire or clog a filter. I just bought a Weber DGV 32/36 carb and adapter for my Datsun. They work perfect and last forever. I use them for all my cars. Weber makes the Edelbrock carb, which is rock solid. The kit with the adapter, carb, and linkage will run from $250-$400 depending on where you get them. Weber factory is backordered right now for 3 months on them.
> 
> Now the smog pump, you can unbolt all that stuff off. The metal lines that go into the top of the exhaust, you can let them be for now until you can get an older manifold to replace it. But you can take the big tubing from the round piece on top near the carb, thats the check valve that only let air go into the manifold and not out. The only thing you will really need if you have it, is the vacuum line that goes to the distributor.


I am a former Datsun Factory Certified Mechanic and worked on a lot of these cars in the 70's. You may have a very common problem with your carb which also occurs in most all carbureted Datsuns made in the 70's.
You will notice a hexagonal shaped 2" long metal attachment which screws into the side of the carb on the passenger side. It has a single black wire with a bullet connector coming out of end of it which plugs into a black wire from the vehicle wiring harness. This is the "anti-dieseling" solenoid. It's purpose is to keep the engine from continuing to run after the ignition is turned off. When energized, it allows air/fuel to enter the idle circuit. when the ignition is switched off, it de-energizes and the spring-loaded plunger inside of the solenoid plugs the air/fuel port in the idle circuit cutting-off the flow of fuel to the carb.You can test the solenoid very easily. Turn your key to the ON position. Unplug the bullet connector between the solenoid and the vehicle wiring harness, and touch the connectors back together a few times. You should hear a light clicking soud every time you touch the connectors together. If you don't hear clicking, you may have a stuck plunger or a blown fuse and/or a wiring harness problem. You can remove the solenoid with a wrench and check the plunger to see if it is stuck in the solenoid. If so, clean the plunger and apply a light coating of oil to it and re-assemble to the carb and see if your problem is fixed. Otherwise, check the wire coming from the vehicle harness for +12 volts when the ignition is on. You will need a test light, available at most auto-part stores or Sears. If you don't have 12 volts on this wire, you probably just have a blown fuse. Otherwise, You could run a new wire from the fuse panel and connect it to a circuit that only has 12 volts when the ignition is on. (Connecting the solenoid to constant voltage will run your battewry down) Hope this helps!


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## 210raptor (Apr 13, 2005)

queston for roadkings
what if...say your anti dieseling wieres are broken off
what are the symptoms??


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## roadkingsrule (Jun 28, 2005)

*No Idle*

There is only one wire going to the solenoid, It gets it's ground through the negative battery cable which is attached to the engine block.
If the wire is broken or disconnected, the engine will run fine until you release the gas pedal, then it will die. It will not idle at all.


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## 210raptor (Apr 13, 2005)

my friend has a b210 and his has 2 wires
is that weird


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