# Sticky  Shogun, from stock to extreme +700hp



## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

*`Shogun´* & *+700hkr!*


It all started when I had my drivers licence. I built my own dragster, a *Cuda -70* with 1136 hp.

It was an awsome adventure to be in control of this extreme machine, knowing I built it myself and have success at the races. Eights on the strip, lovely time it was but rediculously expensive.

*Today I´m building an extreme street racer*. Handling and brutal power in a nice wraping.
Even if I am building most of it myself, it is costing a lot, but it is worth every single Krona, Euro and Dollar. Luckily there are many good suppliers around the world who produce quality parts at decent prices. I have made many good contacts during the years.

I bought the car in 1998, it was in a very good condition and more important, the engine was flawless and without errors and only a few Miles on it, just to pay.

The first mod I did was 17" rims, lowering springs and adjustable Koni dampers.
After that some styling. Got in contact with Erebuni and together we found a package and named it Shogun. They still use my car on their site.

The engine needed an upgrade. Started with exhaust system, chip tuning, open air filter and increased boost. The result was rather meager, some lousy 200 hp. Nothing to chear about. I got an intercooler, a larger turbo and a manifold. Increased fuel pressure and a modified chip. Together with some other changes, the engine produced some 300 hp... Still not satisfied.

*I sold most of it*. 

After a heavy research I started collecting high performance parts to make it 100%. Forged pistons, forged rods, new aftermarket control unit, injectors, turbo, manifold, large IC, water cooler, clutch, oil cooler, fuelpressure regulator, blow off valve, etc etc... Bosch Motorsports added high ohm 960cc injectors from their development department. It´s nice to have contacts.
Lots of things is needed to assemble a 600hp engine.

How will the gearbox manage all those horses and the hughe torque?

The original tranny dies between 300 and 400hp...

*I have to make my own*.
Said and done. I bought a Z32 tranny that without swetting manage more than 1000hp.
The bellhousing was cut off and the S13 flange part was TIG welded on. A special made prop shaft and a tranny bracket was made. Thats it! OK...a short shift on top of it.

*Potent engine, durable tranny...but...gripp?*
How to solve this?

Bought 18" Japaneese light weight drifting rims and really good rubber.
One of the better LSD:s on the market was bought from ATS in Japan and found its place in the rear axle.
Coilovers, adjustable link/rods made of chrome molly, ball joints, swaybars...there is a long list over all modified chassie parts and upgrades.

I mounted the brakes from a Skyline, both front and rear. The brake discs got some work and the wheel hubs was exchanged to 5-bolt version to prevent the wheels from escaping during acceleration.

The interior was modified with Sparco seats, 3" 6-point belts and some more, making it able to handle and keep full control over engina data and the car handling.

It is not an easy thing to create a monster kind of car but with time and effort it is possible, but not for free. For more information, have a look on my site. There are lots of pictures, both on parts and projects.

I look forward, summer to come
_*`Shogun´*_


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Laid my hands on a new damper. 

Took a while but finally ...



















Yesterday the parcel from Australia arrived. Very nice quality on the damper.

*New belts to use because of the undersize damper:*

_Alternator belt_ 
4PK0855, 4PK825 or equal

_AC belt _
4PK0845, 4PK815 or equal

_Power Steering belt_ 
4/3PK0835, 4/3PK800 or equal 

(check if you have 3 or 4 ribs)
"4pk845 Hicas" / "3pk845 Non-Hicas"
(4 rib belts for Hicas and 3 rib belts for Non-Hicas)


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some garage pictures and test assembly of the turbo.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Jonny Wilkinson said:


> Car  Girl  Garage
> 
> 
> Jammy bd !
> You must have done something very right in a previous life.


Yes, I agree...I do not know what but it must have been really good stuff


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Good feeling


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks to blue redtop at SXOC, the engine starts looking very shiny. You can tell he is very good at polishing aluminum. Thanks again blue redtop, I am 100% satisfied with your work. You will recieve some more work orders from me soon.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some minor things I did to improve the handling


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

New kid in town


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

TM_S13 said:


> hum.... looks nice...
> how about getting the car done now ?!? LOL
> what's missing?


A good vacation is missing :sxoc:


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Rollcage to be installed as soon as it is delivered from Apex Performance.
(FIA EDC/BDC/Pro Drift/Time Attack).


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Got a Seibon hood and I must say it is the best CF quality I have seen so far.

Judge for yourself.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some pictures from the garage


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

and some past summer ones


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Upgrading the brakes.
Front 350z track edition discs and Z32 calipers.
Rear Z32 discs and calipers.
Bolt on.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

This is how I rebuilt a Z32 gearbox to fit my car (200sx S13 with ca18det).

The good thing about it is that you can reuse the nice clutch you already invested in for your S13. I have a twin disc OS Giken clutch, bought for my S13 gearbox. Both gearboxes have the same dimensions on the ingoing splined shaft, release bearing, sleave etc. This makes it an absolute fit. The gear ratio is slightly higher. My car had before a top speed of 282km/h at 7800rpm. With the ratio of the Z32 gearbox and new tyres it will make aprox. 305km/h. Hope you like it.

Clutch: Same as S13 (clutch, bearing, release sleave, starter motor, flywheel)
Weight: A bit heavier because of internal dimensions
Length: A bit shorter (reuse the yoke from the Z32 and the rear part from theS13 and make a new, longer prop shaft)
Gear ratio: A bit higher (~5%)
Shift stick: Reuse the one from Z32 or buy a new short shift
Welding in cast aluminium: You need a TIG or go to a welding shop (sand blast the weld area to make it clean and easier to weld)

Z32 original gearbox from a Twin Turbo 1994



























Disassemble the clutch housing (Z32)









Parts to remove to disassemble the clutch housing. Not shown are the screws on the outside (remove), attaching the cluth housing to the gearbox.









Remove all screws around the cover and carefully lift it off









Remove both snap rings and the stopper ring









Be careful not to lose any important washers or shims









Important! First remove the screw, spring and ball before removing the complete interlock assembly, the ball might fall into the gearbox.









Before you disassemble the clutch housing of the S13 gearbox, you have to make a centering device. Use a plexi glass plate (10mm) and drill a 16mm hole in the centre, put the plate over the shaft (snug fit) and carefully drill 4 small holes exactly in the centre of the holes where the gearbox is attached to the motor. Remove the plate and carefully drill the holes just as big to get the screws in









Result









Remove the clutch housing from the ca18det S13 gearbox. It is more or less just to remove the screws on the outside of the clutch housing, remove the cover and one snap ring.









Remove the snap ring under the cover









Comparision between the both gearboxes. One is useless over 350-400Bhp, the other last well over 1000Bhp and more.









Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the S13 gearbox ca. 50mm, take it to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 45mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.









Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the Z32 gearbox ca. 40mm, throw away the flange and take the rest of the clutch housing to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 355mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.









Both parts after grinding, cleaning and reattaching the clutch housing on the Z32 gearbox









Put the S13 flange snug to the Z32 clutch housing and attach the centering plate with four screws









Side view









Top view. Important to align and rotate them like on the picture


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside


















Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)









The new short shift









A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)









A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)









A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)









Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)









Side view (borrowed picture)









Front view (borrowed picture) 









The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The new 46mm Tial Wastegate


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some stuff from







Hidden in the Attic


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some pictures from today. It is nice to assemble clean parts


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

After some 10 years the old front bumper came off . Still in very good shape and the paint work is as new. Look forward to put on the new Works9 bumper


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

ok point of thread is a whole bunch of pics a a built ca motor. and a shogun stylye front bumber. anyways motor looks good not a pic fan of the body.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Device to correct the speedometer. Needed because of the different speed signals and gear ratio in the Z32 gearbox. It also handle changed wheel/tyre sizes etc. The sensor signal to the speedometer is handled to show the correct speed on the speedo. It also show the max speed from the latest run by pressing a button.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Nice set of pictures. How about some detailed specs.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

rogoman said:


> Nice set of pictures. How about some detailed specs.


Thanxs!

Yes, you are right. It is about time so here we go:

* Blueprinted custom engine with everything exchanged for maximum HP and durability
* Custom made JE Forged Piston; High Heat Ceramic Coated crowns and Moly coated skirts, Heavy Duty Wrist Pins, Contact Reduction Grooves, Total-Seal Gapless Top rings and more
* Pauter Forged 4340 Con Rods
* Full flow ported head, polished valves and multi angle valve seats
* Tomei Procams with adjustable cam wheels
* Tomei valve springs to match the lift and duration
* Trust reinforced cam belt
* SRX700 custom design and built flow optimized turbo
* ARP head, main, rods, flywheel studs/bolts
* Custom made exhaust manifold and down pipe
* ACL Performance bearings - Calico coated (rods/main)
* OS Giken Twin Plate clutch and Z32 custom gearbox, short shift, custom made drive shaft from Spalding, designed for +10,000 rpm
* DTA Fast S60 Pro, fully programmable engine control system with launch control, traction control, ALS, multi maps etc
* 960 cc high Ohm 7-beam race-injectors from Bosch Motorsports development department
* Custom Rail from Nuke Performance
* MAP/MAT-sensors to measure pressure and temperature in the plenum
* 4" downpipe + 3" exhaust system
* ATS Deftforce 1.5-way LSD
* Custom made FMIC from Racecooling
* Q45 80mm TB, match ported
* Custom Plenum, flow adjusted with funnels and developed in flow bench, match ported
* HKS SSQV
* Custom made radiator from Racecooling
* 25-row oil cooler from Setrab
* Upgraded, new oil pump with higher oil pressure
* Double electric fans, controlled by the DTA-system
* Samco silicone hoses
* Light aluminium belt wheels
* Undersize Powerbond harmonic balancer
* Peak Performance engine and gearbox mounts with exchangeable bushings for street & strip
* Aluminium coolant tank
* Air panels to guide the cooling air
* Fuel pressure regulator and filter from Aeromotive
* Bosch fuel pumps
...and on…


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Today I picked up the new turbo from







. 
Without doubt they are skilled experts in the world of turbos. Dick has made an excellent job. There is nothing about this SX700S that is standard. Top Class Dick! 1000 cheers!


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## jlvb25 (Nov 20, 2009)

nice whip buddy whats it run gotta be quick... hook up or just burn em?


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

New aim in region of +700 hp and
1/4 mile in low tens


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Tomei MHG for big power output.
The listing show approximate CR vs thickness and bore.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some funny christmas candles of grade 8.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Slightly modified plans. Will go for dual Tial with a bit of my own touch


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

i feel like i just read an ad.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Asleep said:


> i feel like i just read an ad.


But the car is not for sale  lol


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Completed the gauge installation with a couple of useful meters from Autometer.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Don't feed the animal


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some additional chassis parts to lift handling one more step


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The digital climate control DCC with power on.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

shogun! said:


> If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside
> 
> 
> 
> ...


how does the transmission shift? i see no connection from the stick to the trans. or am i just missing something here?


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Asleep said:


> how does the transmission shift? i see no connection from the stick to the trans. or am i just missing something here?


With the gear stick  It is on one of the pictures. I use a Z32 short shift.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some Christmas gifts


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)

Remove the wheels










Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.










Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.










Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)










Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin










Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.










When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub










Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.










Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..










Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.










Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.










Remount the brake caliper










Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance 

This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.











I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier










Longer studs









Front









Rear


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Ooops!
A late New Years gift turned up aswell


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A small but important upgrade


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.

Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.

I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

ok.......................................................................big turbo


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

shogun! said:


> With the gear stick  It is on one of the pictures. I use a Z32 short shift.


im an idiot. i didnt see it at first, but now i see it plain as day.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Today all lower arms got the same satin black touch like the SPL ends. Very classy. I like!

The Kouki lights are on. Super fit. I also changed the pins in the new boot lock assembly so I only have to use one and same key to all locks.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Lots of action in the garage. 
The head is improved one step further. 
To eliminate fuel surge problems and fuel capacity at the track and during heavy acceleration, a surge tank is installed together with two Bosch 044 fuelpumps.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Included with the new Kouki lights, I got a new and longer boot lock-assembly. I do not want to have more than one key so I made a nice and easy modification. 

Here is how to do it. I made a small "how to" 
Enjoy.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

*What will happen when the fuel pump in the tank will suck air instead of fuel? *

This could happen when you are on the track or during heavy acceleration. The fuel is forced towards the side of the tank, away from the pump. Especially when the tank is not full.
The air will be pumped into the fuel line, onwards to the fuel rail and via the injectors into the engine.

Most of the time this will cause a noticeable decrease of power and it may also damage your engine.

*To stop air entering the fuel system, a surge tank / swirl pot is a very good solution.*

I have tested a couple of designs and found two really well working versions. Which one to use is mainly a question of available space. Some install it in the boot, others in the engine bay. I will put mine in the engine bay.

If it is installed in the boot, use Teflon hoses. They are more gas tight compared with ordinary steel braided hoses and will prevent the smell of fuel inside the car. They are also resistant against E85.

To connect the hoses to the surge tank / swirl pot, use AN-connections. Usual sizes like AN-6, AN-8 or AN-10.

The installation is fairly simple. Remember the high pressure pump need rather much power and should be connected over a fused relay. It is recommended to use the ordinary pump power feed as relay control signal. 

Boot installation 









Engine bay installation









Bosch inline pump (0580254044) 









Installation Diagram


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Got a Haltech solenoid to control the boost very accurately at each load point.










This is how it will be installed but with the exception that I will use two external Tial wastegate valves.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

This story has quite recently been published in a Swedish tuning magazine. The styling will of course look very much different with the Wide Body, new Front Bumper and more


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Another short story published in 2010. Winner Round 5.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A complete set of new Carbotech XP8

Front









Rear


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some of todays work:


New bushes on the steering rack.











SPL and Tein outer and inner tie rods and Driftworks lower arms.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Bought some 30pcs of Mikalor Supra Clamps in different sizes.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

If I can afford it (yes I want) I am possibly investing in a good set or tyres.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Picked up my new Tial waste gate valves from Svensk Turboservice yesterday. They came straight from the Tial assembly line in the USA.

Worth waiting for! They are the new, upprated version with integrated water cooling.
How small are they? I compared them with the earlier bolt on 38mm Tial WG and I can tell you. They are very small! Good! Since I do a twin installation and there isn't much space to talk about.

MV-S V2.0 
This revamp features water cooling ports, three bottom air ports and two top air ports. Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy at road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or when the engine bay doesn't get a lot of airflow. Air and Water ports are clearly marked so there is no confusion.

(mine are silver/aluminum coloured).


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Sometimes the difference between big and small is very obvious


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The new Driftworks adjustable suspension arm kit. Soon to be Satin Black


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

All new control arms are now painted satin black and the front suspension is mounted and finished


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Today I made a major investment.

I bought a spigot bushing for a massive £5 

Part no. is 32202-7f401

For those not familiar with the term, the spigot bushing is a bronze sleeve bearing in the tail end of the crankshaft which carries the nose of the gearbox input shaft to provide proper alignment of the clutch disk.

Soak it in oil for a day or two before you install it. The oil penetrate the tiny holes in the bushing.

The old one is removed with a rod just a tad smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing and some ordinary grease. Fill up the hole with grease, put the rod inside the opening and tap it with a hammer a few times. The rod will press against the grease and the grease will force the bushing out. May take some harder taps if the bushing is a bit grumpy.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Today I installed all rear lower arms and suspension arms I got from Driftworks.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Lots of pins to crimp on the cables for the DTA-ECU. Only remain some heat-shrink tubing and they are all done. The photos show the sensor cables. The Power cables I finished earlier.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The entire DTA-package turned out to be quite small but oh so powerful


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Good! There is room enough


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some tiny bits for the fuelsystem Teflon Stainless Braided Fuel Hose is nice.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The improved engine bay


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The Real Deal 
Two times Bosch 0580 254 044
Enough fuel/E85 for at least 1000BHP


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some carbon stuff to make driving less heavy...or is it just a bling thing?


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Very efficient long weekend.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Moved the power steering pump all the way down to give some more space for the turbo


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## zayres29 (May 28, 2010)

nice build i wish i could do something like this someday


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks mate!
I hope you will. It feels nice to create something lasting.

Have searched for a long time to find combined blinker and position lights to match the new front bumper and now I have them 



















From Creatix I got a very nice oil cooler for the power steering. Perfect for demanding driving on track and drifting.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Spoiled myself with a large and very nice tool cabinet


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks to Zef Engineering and their splendid new deal with Driftworks, the car got a massive dose of safety and an awsome upgrade with new CS2 coilovers. 

A major thanks to Zef Engineering and especially to you Thomas who made this possible!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Coilovers installed. The front ride height is adjusted with tyre/fender in line. It will stay at this height untill the the coils have settled whereafter I will adjust them to a lovely deep level.

At the rear, the rims are in level with the fender edge.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

I worked with the interior and the exterior today. Must say I like the nice quality of Works9, it makes work so easy


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

At such a nice price I couldn't resist a new pair of Carbon fiber F1-mirrors from Creatix.

Only 114 Grams each  not bad :thumbs:


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

It hurt to cut the brand new front bumper, but it had to be done to maximize the cooling. This picture show the opening just before I started working with the epoxy and fibre.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A picture to give you a hint about the size.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Ouch!
Don't know what happened, sort of got me some extra rims


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Pretty decent rubber for the new rims  

Semi-slick Federal 595RS-R 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Bought a large box of oil. 

(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars 

(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based

(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)

(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

*The original watercooled oilcooler*, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.









Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.









Here it has been dismounted.









A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.









In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).









Original stud dismounted.









In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.









It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number is 15213-V0711.









Stud, 15213-V0711, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).









Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.









Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.









Filter relocation kit.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting 

I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

I have ordered an oil filter stud from Nissan and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part number.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on. 

When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

*The original watercooled oilcooler*, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.









Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.









Here it has been dismounted.









A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.









In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).









Original stud dismounted.









In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.









It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.
The valve I will mount in the filter holder.









Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).









Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.









Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.









Filter relocation kit.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some OEM-parts I picked up today:

Holder for the license plate lights.









Fasteners and washers for the camshaft brackets (total 24pcs of each).









Over pressure valve and oil filter stud to remove the OEM oilcooler.









Fasteners, washers and nuts for the outgoing drive shafts on the diff flanges (total 12pcs of each).









Fasteners, washers and nuts for the prop shaft on the ingoing flange on the diff (total 12pcs of each).


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

ChargeSpeed supplied by BadAssParts. Test mounted prior to paintjob.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A bracket to relocate the license plate and a ignition key light


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A brief summary of what I'm working on regarding aerodynamics of the car:


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

ChargeSpeed front fenders from BadAssParts test mounted prior to the paint job.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

God Jul & Gott Nytt År
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
Joyeux Noël et bonne année 
Fröhliche Weihnachten und einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr
Gleðileg jól og farsælt komandi ár
Buon Natale e felice anno nuovo
旧年中大変お世話になりました
¡Feliz Navidad y próspero año nuevo!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some tiny bits in place


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

At last, a major problem has been solved.
Earlier I used Aeromotive fuel filters with 10 micron filter elements and they blocked up very fast due to the small filter housings. I had to install filter elements with a coarser mesh and I did not feel particularly well about it.

Thanks to Creatix I got hold of much larger and very hearty AEM filters that remove all particles down to 7 microns without being blocked. Very good!

They also flow through a proper amount of fuel. How about 2800 liters/h at 3.1 bar  I like!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The Touch screen for the computer is mounted in the centre console and the Digital Climate Control has also found its final place


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The new fixture for the Bosch Fuel Pumps


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Got me some new coils to delete spark blowout at higher boost.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Ongoing


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## stratxc (Jan 28, 2011)

this is such a beautiful build man! congrats to you! i wish i had the money to do something like this!! maybe one day. i mean i am only 19. just bought a 240 this past weekend =) first priority, 5spd swap!

what motor is that in ur car? i have read this entire thread. i probably skipped over it accidentally =P

but man keep up the amazing work! you are a real inspiration =)


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

stratxc said:


> this is such a beautiful build man! congrats to you! i wish i had the money to do something like this!! maybe one day. i mean i am only 19. just bought a 240 this past weekend =) first priority, 5spd swap!
> 
> what motor is that in ur car? i have read this entire thread. i probably skipped over it accidentally =P
> 
> but man keep up the amazing work! you are a real inspiration =)


Thanks bro 
It is the original ca18det that came with the car from the factory...slightly developed and changed by me


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## stratxc (Jan 28, 2011)

shogun! said:


> Thanks bro
> It is the original ca18det that came with the car from the factory...slightly developed and changed by me


slight? haha right =P
the reason i was asking i really like the valve cover on it. its not as plain as the KA24 like i have...


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The original version:












My version:


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## stratxc (Jan 28, 2011)

that is so awesome!!
if you dont mind me asking.
how much have you put into her so far?


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

stratxc said:


> that is so awesome!!
> if you dont mind me asking.
> how much have you put into her so far?


I do not know since I have bought and sold many parts over the years. A decent guess would give some 30-50,000 US$, car included. 
That amount got me a sort of "own made supercar" with very good performance and handling, easy matching 10 times more expensive Italian beasts 

...and a lot of fun doing it


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Tucked the harnesses both sides to avoid shortage and tyre rubbing when the ride height is adjusted fully down. I also temporarily put on the newly painted fenders. Top notch paint job Thanks to Thomas


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## jaysonbarn (Jan 4, 2011)

Hey I like your modification, and the efforts put by you in doing all those stuffs. I too like to have some of those modifications in my car but the problem is that I don't have equipments to do it in a right way.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

More incoming parts painted by Thomas


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Sometimes it is Christmas more than once in a year.

I mounted the newly painted parts and also assembled the two Bosch fuel pumps in their bracket. Then something happened...

I did something more... 




















But....?

What now...?

...


...


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The rear spoiler is removed and has been put up for sale.

The front bumper is at the paint shop. Yeah!
I also mounted the fuel pumps, fuel filters and some engine/FMIC tubes.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Todays visit at Creatix resulted in a couple of spare insert for the two AEM-fuelfilters and an oil filter relocation kit. Good size with the AN10-connections.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

I've finally got hold of a really good and durable aluminum jack that is sufficiently low and deep. Works great everywhere, both in the garage and to bring to the track events.

* Heavy Duty 1814kg (1.8 tons EU) (2 US Tons) Capacity
* Side Mounted Handles (easy positioning)
* Quick Lift Design - 5 Pumps to Top
* Wide Track Wheels & Castors
* Rubber Saddle Pad Protects Vehicle
* Foam Bumper Handle Pad Protects Hands & Vehicle Dual Return Springs
* Low Lift Height - 89mm
* High Lift Height - 498mm
* Overall Length - 673mm
* Chassis Width - 330mm
* Handle Length - 1350mm
* Weight 22kg

Arcan Jack


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Some more in transit


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A bunch of injectors from Injector Dynamics.
2200cc and high ohm. Perfect for E85


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Zef Engineering is an excellent supplier

This will help in the pursuit of weight saving


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

This has been awesome to follow over the years...great pics and storyline, thanks for keeping us updated.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Np mate. Thanks! 

The jack has been tested successfully. 
Mounted some of the braces from Ultra Racing. They are spot on.
50mm rear over fenders. At the time being lots of Camber to adjust. Original fenders shall be partly cut away and welded and then all body parts will be glued in their final places.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The front end of the car has appeared rather empty for a while but now I have picked up the front bumper at Thomas paintshop (well done Thomas). I will cut away som minor areas inside the opening to make a snug fit for the intercooler but would anyway like to show you some quick motivating pictures.


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

Any chance you've uploaded videos of your car in action? 

I'm sure a lot here would love to hear it and see it in action.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Jeff said:


> Any chance you've uploaded videos of your car in action?
> 
> I'm sure a lot here would love to hear it and see it in action.


Hi mate. I will post some videos when it's ready again. 
It may take some time since we are expecting (W32)


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

Awesome! Congrats


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Jeff said:


> Awesome! Congrats


Thanks mate. Only 7-8 more weeks to go


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

One is not enough... 16pcs


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Looks empty now that the wheels are sold. Well, the new ones will soon enough be mounted 

Meanwhile I search comfort from a really fat cat


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

To match the size of the fuel lines and the huge fuel flow, I decided to invest in a Turbosmart FPR-2000 with AN8 fittings.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Improved braking dynamics.
I sorted a 1" BMC from Tokico in Japan. It gives a perfect feel to the brakes.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

It is time to make the fuel and oil lines.

12 meters of stainless steel braided Teflon line for E85 with 40pcs AN8-couplings and 6 meters of stainless steel braided oil hose with about 10pcs AN10-couplings.


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## 180SX-X (Sep 21, 2003)

So is she up and running on E85 yet?!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Not at the moment mate.

It is possible to buy wings for money: D

... and finally I have managed to find what I long sought.


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

First tryout of the spoiler. It will fit very well as soon as the fenders have been glued to the body.


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## 180SX-X (Sep 21, 2003)

Nice Sleek look!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks mate.
---
Not necessary but I like them so... Volk Racing Formula


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A brief summary of what has happened on the car's exterior, from 1998 when I bought the car until the summer of 2011. Time flies when you have fun: D


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

The fender bars in place to strengthen the joint between A-pillar and front chassis.


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## jcgr (May 14, 2013)

Any chance we can get those pics up and running again?
I would love to see the build!


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

A few pictures. Not the latest but they'll give you an idea


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

It has seen the daylight


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Ongoing for future track days.

Remains hinged baffles, cleaning and painting 





































I have now decided to make the hinged trap doors similar to the pictures. The hinged trap doors will be adapted to the extended side wings. The function as in the youtube video.

Oil Pan, Trap Door - YouTube


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)




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## jcgr (May 14, 2013)

This is EPIC!
Thank you for sharing the photos!

The thing that amazes me the most is that you are using the stock block! Most people will do a swap of some sorts.

Seriously though, this is by far one of the best custom builds I've ever seen. I don't like some of your styling choices but hey, it's your ride after all!

I'm planning to build one in the next few years myself, but I was thinking of keeping it around 400 HP.

You have built a demon! Congratulations, I look forward to seeing it done someday and hopefully you'll share some sound bites of that engine in the future! 

PS: DAT TURBOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :OOOOOOOOOO


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## shogun! (Nov 3, 2009)

Adding some lost pictures


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