# My suspension mods!



## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Ffirst off ima start with everything i have as far as my suspension.

CUSCO=Rear Upper Control Arms,Rear Toe Links,Tension Rods.
Battle Version Rear Forward Links.
KTS Outter Tie-Rod Ends with tein inners.
PDM_RACING... Front Lower Control Arm with whiteline bushings already installed.
KYB AGX Adjustables front and back.
EIBACH sportline springs front and back.
4 EIBACH camber bolts for the front. part #5.81250K it adjust up to 1.75
Peak Performance Urethane Subframe Bushings

ok so i just have a couple questions that should be a no brainer for u guys because you prolly already have ur suspensions done, this is my first suspension job for me and i want to be a good one lol

1. i shouldnt have any problem adjusting my camber because i already have my rear uper control arms and my camber bolts?

2.here are some of the parts i think i wasted money on due to the fact of my suspension setup i have,what do u guys think? rear toe links and rear forward links.

3.i dont need to go to a race shop or a pro to get all this installed rite?
after installing my parts i can actually drive it to get my alighnment done?

4.when installing the adjutable parts the parts have to have the same amount of thread on both ends rite?

All Tips Or Suggestions Are Welcome......Rogo<<<<<^^^^^^ thanx a mill guys if u actually took ur time to read this.


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## Nismo240 (Jul 24, 2004)

1. you should be fine for the camber, since you have the RUCA and camber bolts.

2. in my opinion, i don't think its a waste of money. you never know when you might want or need to adjust something.

3. i'm not sure about this, but i would take it to a pro shop to get it aligned. you could never be too careful, and i wouldn't want somewhere cheap doing an alignment on something i just spent well over $1000 for parts.

4. i have no clue.


edit: nice setup by the way


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

NISMO said most of it.

1 - You may have a problem with setting the front camber according to how much you lower the car. Installing the front camber eccentric bolts should allow at least up to 1.75 degrees of camber adjustment like you mentioned. If you need more camber adjustment, camber plates will give you up to around 4.5 degrees of adjustment. My preference is camber plates which also allow caster adjustment.

4 - After installing the adjustable components, adjust them by eye-balling the position of the tires with the car fully sitting on the floor. Use a level against the tires to try to end up with a 'zero' camber setting just for the purpose to make the car driveable to the alignment shop.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

i don't understand it, you're going high dollar with adjustability, and just sticking with KYB and eibach? megan racing coil overs are around 800 dollars, and will give a lot better ride, and more adjustability. but, it's your car, you do what you want.


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## 240on430 (May 3, 2005)

Dustin said:


> i don't understand it, you're going high dollar with adjustability, and just sticking with KYB and eibach? megan racing coil overs are around 800 dollars, and will give a lot better ride, and more adjustability. but, it's your car, you do what you want.


i was thinking the same thing.


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## Nismo240 (Jul 24, 2004)

yeah, i would have gone with megan racign coilovers myself. the kyg's are probably about $420 and then the eibach's are about $220, so that comes out to around $640. it would have been well worth it to save up $200 and get the coilovers. but still not a bad shock/spring combo.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Nismo240 said:


> yeah, i would have gone with megan racign coilovers myself. the kyg's are probably about $420 and then the eibach's are about $220, so that comes out to around $640. it would have been well worth it to save up $200 and get the coilovers. but still not a bad shock/spring combo.


yea i know, when it came down to the decision i went with the shock/spring setup, because of the fact that i wouldnt know how to adjust the coilovers, and i heard somewhere that there are more ways of setting up a coilover system wrong then rite so i figured id start from the bottom and work my way up....thanx everybody for all the help anymre inputs are more then welcome:thumbup: rogo/nismo


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

Over all looks good. Allot of adjustment room. My only sugestion for you is make sure you have all the right tools to do it. It sucks when you have to run out and get something. And above all use a spring compressor. As for measuring the distance for your tie rods. Counting threads doesnt allways work. Measure the original tie rods and start the new ones at the same measurement. Then you can adjust from there. This will give your camber a good stating point. About you shocks/Struts I love my KYBAGX's you will be happy with them untill you find the need to make the car even stiffer. Good luck and take your time. Took me one a day and half to do mine with allot of the bolts being very stuborn and with my impact gun going on the fritz. Presoak your bolts


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Trippen said:


> Over all looks good. Allot of adjustment room. My only sugestion for you is make sure you have all the right tools to do it. It sucks when you have to run out and get something. And above all use a spring compressor. As for measuring the distance for your tie rods. Counting threads doesnt allways work. Measure the original tie rods and start the new ones at the same measurement. Then you can adjust from there. This will give your camber a good stating point. About you shocks/Struts I love my KYBAGX's you will be happy with them untill you find the need to make the car even stiffer. Good luck and take your time. Took me one a day and half to do mine with allot of the bolts being very stuborn and with my impact gun going on the fritz. Presoak your bolts


yea i went out to get a spring compressor yesterday from craftsman, thats the only store that had one.
ill prolly end up presoaking my bolts a day in advance.
where did u get ur torque specs from for the bolts?
the higer the number on the shocks the harder the ride quality rite?
thanx trippen?


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

the torque specs were on my sheets from the Shocks and struts. I cant remember off hand what they were. And yes the bigger the number the stiffer the ride. Start off in the middle until you get used to the back end stepping out quickly. Caught me by surprise the first day when i went through a light and it felt so tight i just layed into and the back end stepped out. Good when you expect it not so good when your not. But fun none the less


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Trippen said:


> the torque specs were on my sheets from the Shocks and struts. I cant remember off hand what they were. And yes the bigger the number the stiffer the ride. Start off in the middle until you get used to the back end stepping out quickly. Caught me by surprise the first day when i went through a light and it felt so tight i just layed into and the back end stepped out. Good when you expect it not so good when your not. But fun none the less


well guys today i replaced my tie rods with the tein inners and kts outers, the result was kinda weird, i put my steering wheel staright so the tires should be pointing straight to,but there not there pointing toward the center of the car also i stood in front of the car and the tires are leaning towrds the center to, i tried driving the car but it seems like it wants to steer its self so i didnt drive it.

the only thing i could think of would be the kts outer rods, any help is greatly appreciated thanx guys


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Check this link for info that may be your problem.
KTS Outter Tie-Rod Ends S13/S14

It talks about using S14 ends.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Check this link for info that may be your problem.
> KTS Outter Tie-Rod Ends S13/S14
> 
> It talks about using S14 ends.


yea i fixt it the next day... thanx


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

SIL-S15 said:


> yea i fixt it the next day... thanx


the eibach camber bolts replace the top spindle bolt only rite???


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

I think they replace the bottom bolt only. Read the instructions.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> I think they replace the bottom bolt only. Read the instructions.


got it i thought it didnt have instructions they were on the box thanx rogo

negative camber the wheels point inward and positive the wheels go outward rite?


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## jrivera (Aug 16, 2006)

got any pics?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> negative camber the wheels point inward and positive the wheels go outward rite?


Yes, you're right. If the top of the tire is leaning inwards toward the car, then the camber is negative.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Yes, you're right. If the top of the tire is leaning inwards toward the car, then the camber is negative.


thanx rog,well theres a annoying sound coming from the front suspension it sounds like tires chirpping every time im turning at a corner and mostly at low speeds and when i go over a speed bump to, any clue on what it could be???


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

probably the shocks making noise, hit the tube with some 3 n 1 oil and try to shake the car back and forth.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Dustin said:


> probably the shocks making noise, hit the tube with some 3 n 1 oil and try to shake the car back and forth.


there brand new why would they need that?
does anybody know the torque specs for the front tension rods and front lower control arm bolt cusco didnt provide any torque info?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> well theres a annoying sound coming from the front suspension it sounds like tires chirpping every time im turning at a corner and mostly at low speeds and when i go over a speed bump to, any clue on what it could be


Could be the tires rubbing the inner fender well.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> does anybody know the torque specs for the front tension rods and front lower control arm bolt cusco didnt provide any torque info?


Tension rod all bolts: 88 - 108 Nm
Lower control arm bushing bolt: 88 - 108 Nm


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Tension rod all bolts: 88 - 108 Nm
> Lower control arm bushing bolt: 88 - 108 Nm


im doing the rear now, do you know the specs for the rea upper control arms. the rear toe rods,and rear forward links thanx rogo


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

Some easy conversions for you all
1-Nm = 8.85075 inch lbs
1 Nm= .737561 foot lbs. 

Hey Rogoman are you British or do you have JDM tools or just reading the JDM specs???? I use JDM type tools for work and all my Torque wrenches( At Work) are in Nm also but I have yet to find or need the same tools in the states. Yes I work over seas allot. At my house all my Wrenches are in inch or foot lbs. Just wondering.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

Trippen said:


> Some easy conversions for you all
> 1-Nm = 8.85075 inch lbs
> 1 Nm= .737561 foot lbs.
> 
> Hey Rogoman are you British or do you have JDM tools or just reading the JDM specs???? I use JDM type tools for work and all my Torque wrenches( At Work) are in Nm also but I have yet to find or need the same tools in the states. Yes I work over seas allot. At my house all my Wrenches are in inch or foot lbs. Just wondering.


i dont know why cusco doesnt provide the specs and yea i use my torque wrench in foot lbs.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Trippen said:


> Hey Rogoman are you British or do you have JDM tools or just reading the JDM specs???? I use JDM type tools for work and all my Torque wrenches( At Work) are in Nm also but I have yet to find or need the same tools in the states. Yes I work over seas allot. At my house all my Wrenches are in inch or foot lbs. Just wondering.


Hi Tripp,
No, I'm not British; born in the U.S. and still reside here. I have both metric and SAE tools; my torque wrenches have both the metric and SAE adjustments on them. I've owned Detroit iron and JDM cars. Starting in the 1980's, Detroit started going metric, so I started to buy more metric tools. Many of my precision tools like mics are SAE only, so conversion is a pain at times.

All my FSM's have the torque specs in N-m, Kg-m, Ft-lb so when I post the torque specs, I list it in Nm but I try to also list it in Ft-lb but sometimes don't; my bad.

The U.S. should have gone all metric long time ago thus eliminating all this confusion.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> im doing the rear now, do you know the specs for the rea upper control arms. the rear toe rods,and rear forward links thanx rogo


OK SIL,
here they are:
Rear upper control arm: inner bolt: 61 - 65 Ft-lbs, outer bolt 57 - 72 Ft-lbs
Rear forward link: both bolts: 57 - 72 Ft-lbs
Rear toe rods: inner bolt: 51 - 65 Ft-lbs, outer bolt: 36 - 51 Ft-lbs


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> OK SIL,
> here they are:
> Rear upper control arm: inner bolt: 61 - 65 Ft-lbs, outer bolt 57 - 72 Ft-lbs
> Rear forward link: both bolts: 57 - 72 Ft-lbs
> Rear toe rods: inner bolt: 51 - 65 Ft-lbs, outer bolt: 36 - 51 Ft-lbs


i know this is what u mean but i always like to double check!
when u say inner thats towards the middle of the car and outter towards the rim?


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Tension rod all bolts: 88 - 108 Nm
> Lower control arm bushing bolt: 88 - 108 Nm


coul i please get the conversion for this please in ft.lbs


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> i know this is what u mean but i always like to double check!
> when u say inner thats towards the middle of the car and outter towards the rim?


Yes, inner is towards the middle of the car and the outer towards the rim!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

rogoman said:


> Tension rod all bolts: 88 - 108 Nm
> Lower control arm bushing bolt: 88 - 108 Nm


Sorry for not giving the specs also in Ft-lbs but here it is:
Tension rod all bolts: 65 - 80 Ft-lbs
Lower control arm bushing bolt: 65 - 80 Ft-lbs


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

If ANY WANTS A COOL LITTLE PROGRAM CALLED CONVERT.EXE...PM me with an email address. It converts everything Example Torque, Speed, Pressure etc etc. and even has a place to make a custom conversion. Most handy for all these conversions. 

And Rogoman its all good man...Specs are always handy to have... And your box sounds like my Boxes one roll-around of Metric and One of SAE.....And as I tell my Kids no cross contamination.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Sorry for not giving the specs also in Ft-lbs but here it is:
> Tension rod all bolts: 65 - 80 Ft-lbs
> Lower control arm bushing bolt: 65 - 80 Ft-lbs


after all is installed where would you guys think would be an acurate place to gt an alighnment done?

ma-motorsports.com said NTB


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

SIL-S15 said:


> after all is installed where would you guys think would be an acurate place to gt an alighnment done?
> 
> ma-motorsports.com said NTB


????

hi guys,
how tight are you supposed to tighten the bolt thats on the front lower control arm connected to the spindle cause the bushing isnt sittin up straight its like slanted on both the right/left control arms sides, i checkt the fsm and no torque spec for it.


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