# Carburetor to Fuel Injection conv?



## 85_720_4X4KK (Aug 15, 2010)

Could someone please give me a list of parts I would need, or a link to a site that explains how to do this? All I can find is FI to Carb, but I want to do it in reverse for the reliability of fuel injection... my carburetor is just leaking everywhere now =( I really just want to switch it to tbi or efi, and there are a LOT of z24i's in the junkyards around broadway and 19th ave. If anyone could point me in the direction i would be VERRRYYY grateful!!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Honestly, it would be a lot cheaper and easier to replace or rebuild the carb. You can get a rebuild kit for about $40. Autozone has a remanufactured Hitachi for about $465. If that's too much, you can get a Weber conversion for about $304 (AutoPartsGiant.com). 

The problem with fuel injection is that the 720 never came with it, meaning you would have to find an early Hardbody doner. You would need the EGI harness and ECM and an electric fuel pump that'll maintain 36 PSI to the injectors. You would need the TBI unit and the intake manifold, as well. The hard part would be the wiring and installation of the EGI harness and integrating it into your 720's harness. To me, it's just not worth it! Honestly, I really don't think it would be that much more reliable than a properly rebuilt or remanufactured carburator. Chances are that if it's leaking through the gaskets, the float is probably faulty or mis-adjusted.


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## 85_720_4X4KK (Aug 15, 2010)

smj999smj said:


> Chances are that if it's leaking through the gaskets, the float is probably faulty or mis-adjusted.


Perfect! I put the tiny brass pin on the wrong side of the float, and it is no longer pourings out gasoline from every crevice. It is just leaking slightly from the banjo fitting now. I believe i either over tightened it or the round screen thing that goes over the holes is no good, because screens are torn.. Dunno, but evertime that I try to crank it it backfires and catches on fire lol. I dont think my timing is off, but I read somewhere that when I put the oil pump and distributor back on it could be off. Dunno what to do with that but im gunna take the banjo fitting in tomorow to see what a tech has to say and get new copper rings. The vacuum lines are confusing as hell >.< The diagram sucks becuase i dont have a booster or an altitude control..


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you had the distributor out and it's backfiring now, you probably do have the timing off. Recommend you put the engine on top dead center #1 and check the location of the rotor to the #1 cylinder tower on the distributor cap (if this is an 8 spark plug ignition, make sure it's the #1 tower for the intake side).


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## 85_720_4X4KK (Aug 15, 2010)

I cant move the rotor =( I set it to TDC, was very hard to turn, but it is right at the timing mark on compression stroke. I took the dist. cap off, and that round piece wont budge


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If the rotor is off, the distributor and oil pump will have to be removed and the oil pump drive shaft correctly installed. When installing the oil pump & driving spindle into the front cover, the oil pump and driving spindle need to be installed by aligning the driving spindle face with oil pump hole. With engine at #1 TDC, the distributor can be installed so that the rotor points to #1 cylinder tower n the cap.


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