# Torque Specs Needed 1994 Altima GXE



## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

This is for a 94 Altima with an Auto trans.
Need the following torque specs:

1) Trans pan
2) trans filter bolts
3) oil pan

Thank you!!!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

1) Trans pan: 7 - 9 NM (5.1 - 6.5 FT LBS)
2) trans filter bolts: N/A
3) oil pan: 6.4 - 7.5 NM (4.7 - 5.5 FT LBS)

The FSM does not list the torque spec for the trans filter bolts, however I believe they're the same torque as the trans pan bolts.

From what I've read the "filter" is just a wire mesh and shouldn't need to be changed ever unless its damaged. If you drop the pan its right there for you. If you want you could clean it off. If you don't see any metal shavings I would say you're golden.

If you plan to replace the filter, you want to remove each filter bolt one by one, MAKING SURE to note exactly what hole the bolt came from, because the filter bolts are all different lengths, and they all need to be re-installed back into their correct hole they came out of.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Unless the pan gasket is leaking, I would recommend just doing a drain and fill. If you do replace the screen, torque the bolts to 72 inch/pounds. If you have enough debris in the ATF to clog the filter screen, then you don't need a service, but an overhaul. That's Nissan's thinking behind it. Avoid using Dexron III/Mercon ATF as a service replacement fluid. Go with Nissan-Matic Type "D" ATF or an aftermarket ATF that is "recommended for use in Dexron II application," like Valvoline Maxlife ATF or Castrol Multi-import ATF. Regular Dexron III/Mercon has a thicker viscosity than Dexron/Dexron II and has been found to have the potential to cause sticking inside the valve body.


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

I appreciate both of your responses. Thank you. 

Yes, the Haynes manual had me confused when it states, "oil pan-to-transaxle bolts 22-27 ft/lbs." That had me scratching my head. 

5-7 ft/lbs seems more like it. I'm also using a gasket, so I assume the 5-7 ft/lbs reflects this? I've seen some people use RTV/gasket maker and do away with the pan gasket all together. 'd rather replace the gasket, especially if the car came with one from Nissan.

My reasoning behind dropping the trans and oil pans are to replace the rusting OEM pans with Dorman replacements, but I'm thinking about going with OEM to see what if any difference there is in quality.

What are your thoughts on OEM vs. Dorman pans? 

That said, the trans seems top be functioning fine, so I may just do a drain and fill. and wait till the pan rusts worse. That would sure be a lot less work!

I really appreciate this website being here and the info shared! It's important for doing the job right. Do it once and forget about it. ;p


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

Just an update. I changed both the oil and the trans pans due to rust. Used the Dorman replacement pan, and they mated perfectly. I also changed the trans filter while I was in there. There weren't too many particles on the screen, but I am not sure what brand was used before by the shop. I upgraded to an OEM filter. 

I cleaned off the magnets in the pan before transferring them. Great advice to keep track of the bolts. I actually sketched out an outline of the trans filter and the bolts. As I removed the bolts I placed them into the cardboard box in the exact location, so I didn't get anything mixed up.

Everything is sealed up with gaskets and gasket maker. I torqued to the specs suggested in this thread, and there doesn't seem to be any problem. The cork oil pan gasket bulged out a but around one of the bolt holes. Might have been split there a bit. I torqued to 66 inch pounds. I'm sure the seal is good, though. 

Just waiting 24 hours for the gasket maker to cure before adding fluids and checking for leaks. 

Thanks everyone!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you ever take the pan off again, get a genuine Nissan gasket and don't use any sealants or adhesives on it. The quality is much better than a cork gasket.


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

I'm sold on buying OEM stuff from now on. I'll be sure to not use sealant on the OEM oil pan gasket next time. Does that go for the OEM trans pan gasket, too? Or should I still use sealant on the trans? I've emailed a dealership to see about the trans bolt part number. I'll be sure to replace those next time I do the trans pan. 

Update: I've filled the car with 4.5 qrts. of ATF and 4 qrts. of motor oil, and everything seems sealed. No leaks pissing out of the car thus far, so I think I'm in the clear. Going to take it for a longer drive tonight and recheck. Four quarts of trans fluid put the fluid level to the bottom line in the cold range on the dipstick. I added 1/2 qrt (or less) to get the fluid level centered between the cold fill lines. The trans was overfilled last time by the shop I took it to, so more fluid came out. 

On a bad note it looks like my rear main seal is leaking a bit. I-1 drops a week, so it doesn't affect the oil level. I got a quote from a local shop, and they are willing to do the job for $750. Any thoughts? Should I wait till the leak gets worse and the fluid loss actually registers on the dipstick? Or should I get it taken care of now? 

Thank for all your help and suggestions. 



smj999smj said:


> If you ever take the pan off again, get a genuine Nissan gasket and don't use any sealants or adhesives on it. The quality is much better than a cork gasket.


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

One more question:

I torqued the oil pan drain plug to 27 ft/lbs. I did the same to the trans bolt on the replacement pan. 

What is the torque spec on the transmission drain plug?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Trans drain plug torque: 22 - 29 ft-lbs.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The price to replace the rear crank seals sounds about right. If it's just a drip and not making a big mess, I wouldn't be real concerned over it. If it starts to be a mess, then I would have it done before it starts getting on the rubber parts such as the bushings and mounts.


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

Hi,
Thanks again for your advice. Right now the leak is just spotting the street occasionally. There is no oil level loss, yet. I can go 6 months and not have to top off the oil, etc. I guess I'll wait till it starts making more of a mess, or the leak starts affecting the oil level.

I had the front seal replaced due to an oil leak in 2008. I also had the distributor replaced with a Hitachi unit due to an oil leak. Had the upper oil pan resealed and the water pump replaced at the same time. The only problem with the car is the rear crank seal.

The Altima is a runner!

-Matt




smj999smj said:


> The price to replace the rear crank seals sounds about right. If it's just a drip and not making a big mess, I wouldn't be real concerned over it. If it starts to be a mess, then I would have it done before it starts getting on the rubber parts such as the bushings and mounts.


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

I'm back!
It's time for new front rotors and pads (brakes). I ended up getting Hawk HPS pads and Hawk slotted rotors. For some reason Peoria Nissan (Nissan Parts Warehouse) doesn't have front pads listed. Weird. I need the following torque specs:

Caliper retainer bracket bolts (I assume blue loc-tite is recommended)

Wheel lug nuts

Thanks guys!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Caliper retainer bracket: 72 - 97 N-m (53 - 72 Ft-lbs). Loc-tite is not necessary.
Wheel lug nuts: 98 - 118 N-m (72 - 87 Ft-lbs).


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## MattSF415 (Feb 1, 2015)

rogoman,

Thanks again for all your help. I'm glad I found this website. You're helping me keep our U13 alive! LOL


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