# No crank even with jump



## SleepyBeast (Dec 20, 2017)

I am having a problem, 1999 Maxima SE would crank real slow a couple times then quit cranking at all, I have put a good battery in, and tried jumping it and will only get a click which sounds like the solenoid activating but no crank.

I had to replace a battery connector because one broke off (the negative) and noticed that the cable inside the protective covering is corroded badly, I am guessing it might be a bad set of cables or the starter. I will be checking the cable in a while, but don't want to try taking the easy way out on this one, that already caused problems with another car. 

Any ideas what it might be if it isn't one of those two?


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## SleepyBeast (Dec 20, 2017)

Checking the cable there is maybe a .01 volt drop between batter and the starter. So I am thinking it is the starter and not the cable.

Only Nissan I worked on before was a 78 280ZX, so no idea if there is anything I may be overlooking here.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The fact that it is clicking/cranking real slow tells us that the signal is getting to the starter from the ignition switch. If the battery, cables and their connections are good, it is likely a bad starter motor. It's not too bad of a job as you get it from the top side of the transmission. Remove the air box and duct out of the way and you'll see it. IIRC, one mounting bolt head is a 14MM and the other a 17MM (which can sometimes be stubborn to break loose and may require a breaker bar). One harness connector to unplug and a 12MM nut at the solenoid and pull the starter out and up. It's best to stick with a genuine Nissan reman starter if you can afford it.


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## madmaxima4741 (May 20, 2017)

smj999smj said:


> The fact that it is clicking/cranking real slow tells us that the signal is getting to the starter from the ignition switch. If the battery, cables and their connections are good, it is likely a bad starter motor. It's not too bad of a job as you get it from the top side of the transmission. Remove the air box and duct out of the way and you'll see it. IIRC, one mounting bolt head is a 14MM and the other a 17MM (which can sometimes be stubborn to break loose and may require a breaker bar). One harness connector to unplug and a 12MM nut at the solenoid and pull the starter out and up. It's best to stick with a genuine Nissan reman starter if you can afford it.


Good advice.


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## SleepyBeast (Dec 20, 2017)

I may have been wrong about the battery cables, I tried jumping it with a screwdriver at the solenoid, usually that gives a huge spark and cranks the starter, even hooked up to another car, or using a portable jump starter it gets a tiny spark, barely any at all. So I am thinking it may be the cables, so will start replacing them while it is still apart (the intake is out and battery ready to be removed again)

Just an update and maybe if anyone has any ideas that differ from mine would be glad to hear them.


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## SleepyBeast (Dec 20, 2017)

Was the starter, now I am getting a couple codes that only came on once it started raining, was 4 earlier, after clearing it it was 4 pending, now i is down to 2 pending and current, both sets the same code. 

P1105 and P1130, Will check them again after the rain is gone and everything is dry. Just an update.


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## SleepyBeast (Dec 20, 2017)

Codes (other than the P0500 which wasn't mentioned) cleared up after putting the hoses on right. When I had got the car three hoses were chewed up, 2 all the way through and one part way so when replacing them got them mixed up.


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