# Alternator Upgrage



## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

I’ve searched the Forums, here and several other sites looking for an answer. I can’t find anything that helps much.

I have a 93 Hardbody 4x4 KC with the KA24E, and a Manual Transmission.

My alternator is going out, and needs to be replaced/rebuilt. I’ve decided to Replace it with one from a Nissan Quest.. I’ve seen several posts and threads about doing this. All the threads I’ve seen had to do with the 110 – 125 Amp on the 240’s and some D21’s. The Alternators they use are Mitsubishi 110-120amp from the 93 – 03 Nissan Quests. The one I’m looking to get is a from a 2004 Nissan quest. The Valeo 130amp.. I did look over Nissan Nut’s page and seen where he had done it to the VG30 and VG33 with almost no modifications. 

So my question is, will the Valeo work with the KA24E? Will the plug work, if not how much trouble to get it to work? I do know I’ll most likely have to drill out the mounting tabs which is okay with me. 

Thank you all very much in advance, because I’ve been looking for a few weeks trying to figure this out. I’d really like to be able to use this Alternator because I’m getting a great deal on it.. $63.00 shipped with a 1yr warranty. 


My reasons for going with this Alternator would be, a medium sized Audio System, HID headlight kit, AUX lighting, and Electric Fans, and because the alternator is so cheap.

On a side note, does anyone know the current draw from a stock D21 with all accessories on? IE the headlights/taillights, heater, ABS, fuel pump, ect…. Basically how many amps it needs to run with everything stock.


Thanks again and I hope a great day to all!!!


BTW this is my first post.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

look into a Chevy 1 wire swap.. easier and it works..


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

how do I go about that? is it reasonably priced? 

I'm just looking for something that's over stock by a good shot and that'll power everything I'd like to run, I will be getting an optima soon, and possibly two of them.. I do want to run a High torque winch eventually.

Thank you for the response and I hope to get more and more details.. Links and pix would be great!!!


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

they are easy to install.. and you can get a 120 amp shipped off ebay with lifetime warranty for around $70ish..

How to Install a 1-Wire GM Alternator | eHow.com

you won't need to make any brackets.. just get a longer bolt (you will know which one once you try to install it and it's too short.. I got the bolt at Tacoma Screw for under $2..


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

so as I understand it, the chevy 1 wire will constantly put out the 120 amp. right? So does it know when to shut off and start up? B/C won't it fry the battery otherwise? 

I like the idea, I'm just confused about it.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay I've found them. So they're also good for running Audio equipment, and AUX lighting? Do they not have a ground, or is the case the ground? 

120 should be plenty for what I'm needing to do and even the 200 is reasonable on the pricing. They do look similar bit the top mounting bracket is at 12 o'clock and the one on my HB is at around 1.5 - 2 O'clock position.

I really thank you, very much! It's hard to find some of this out.. I have been looking for D21 Chevy 1 Wire swaps, but they seem to be hard to find.. Oh and I did see on some of the Alternators they'll do it a 3 Wire if you ask them btw..

So thank you and I'll be looking forward to more input!!


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

AtomCzar said:


> so as I understand it, the chevy 1 wire will constantly put out the 120 amp. right? So does it know when to shut off and start up? B/C won't it fry the battery otherwise?
> 
> I like the idea, I'm just confused about it.



From What I was reading on the 200amp 1 wire "The output at idle is 85 amps. Maximum output of 200 Amp is achieved at 1200 engine rpm."

So it seems to run the same as a three wire and it does have an internal regulator that's " Self Excited ". I did read somewhere that you'd need to rev it a few times to get the regulator started.

For some reason I do see Biased views about both 3 wire and 1 wire setups. I just want the best for what I need it for.. I'll go either route, as long as it is fair priced and works.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

it is self grounded and mine is a single wire.. a charge which is recommended to be upsized to 4gauge, I have a voltage reader (cheap on ebay) so I always know how much juice is in there and I have not had to rev it to get it to charge, my friends have been running chevy 1 wire on their Mazda b2200's and have had no troubles, I will be trying to put one in a Isuzu pup in a couple of days.. a Friend swapped the pulley for a smaller one so it would turn the alternator faster therefore causing it to charge more amps at lower speeds.. it has worked so far but the way I see it.. our trucks come with a 70amp max wide open.. just turning the truck on gets you 85amps with a chevy.. I have a stereo system, tons of lights and air compressors and everything has worked great for me.. as far as the 3 v.s 1 wire debate.. to me a 1 wire with a $7 digital voltage meter was a good choice.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Okay! That sounds really easy, So what do I do about the old Alternator dongle? Do I cut it or just tie it back? Maybe I use it lol.. So from what I'm seeing and reading. To hook this up, I just mount it like the old Alternator and hook the 1 wire up to the Battery with at least a 4 guage wire? I've already got a Digital Voltage meter, it's built into my Batt Cap.

This seems to be the easiest most cost effective way, also I can get a 200AMP Alternator for under $200 which is great!

Thank you again


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

well the 140 amp recommends 4gauge .. I am not sure what size wire a 200 wire would ask for.. as for the dongle I put some electric grease on the tips and wrapped it and zip tied it to the other cables.. .. I have seen those Digital voltage meter in the battery terminal but if I were you I'd get another one you can put inside the cab.. how are you going to monitor voltage from inside the cab??? right! it's cheap!


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@ Modified_lifestyles

I mistyped lol! I've got a Capacitor in my cab, for my Amplifier. It has a digital Voltage meter on it, but I do want to get one for the dash, along with a Tachometer and a few other gauges. What year is your HB? do you have the 4x4?


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

Mine is a 95 and I'm afraid of heights! so it's bagged and bodydropped! no 4x4 for me!  I am in the process of putting in a chevy 1 wire on a 93 HB , the bolt you will have to replace with a longer one is the one that goes on the top which slided into the tensioner.

In order to line up the pulley with the pulleys on the engine a couple of washers will go on the bottom bolt.. what I did is slid the bottom bold through the engine bracket and added the washers on the end of the bolt sandwiched between the engine bracket and the alternator so it lines up correctly. and fyi all GM alternators are actually 3 wire.. there is a rubber plug they put to hide where the factory plug would go.. 

OneWireAlternator Regulator

I think on this one I'll be doing the 3 wire setup to see if there is an advantage over the single wire install..


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

I'll post the results tomorrow.. I"m tired!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Just found this thread. My 3 month old battery went out over the weekend and I suspect it's the alternator. The previous battery also had symptoms of being overcharged (leaking, lots of acid all over the top of the battery, etc). It went out in about 2-3 years (6 year battery). Interestingly enough, I'm on my 2nd alternator. The original went out at about 80K and 2nd one has now gone out at about 130K (likely earlier). I'd like to upgrade to a heavier duty model. I have a stock '96 4cyl 2WD Xcab that has been very reliable otherwise. Can I just drop in the Chevy alternator as stated above and use the 3 wire rubber plug? Will I have to modify the Nissan plug? Where can I buy the alternator? I'd like to pick up the alternator soon as I need the vehicle for commuting - eBay may be out of the question if the shipping takes too long.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@Saidiadude

From what I can tell if you get the 1 wire Alternator.. You don't need to use the 3 wire plug. Just run a 4gauge or bigger wire from the Alternator to Positive on the battery. That's the Charge line. Make sure you run a fuse a little bit bigger than the Alternator.. So if you get the 200 put a 220amp fuse inline closest to the battery. Also wouldn't hurt to go ahead and just do the big three either.. I'll be running a 0gauge for the Charge and the rest of the big 3.

On a side note, if you really want the 3 wire, the place can make it work for ya, I'll be ordering one tomorrow. I think it's 3-5 days on the shipping. I'm looking at a 220amp for $160.00 shipped. 

My starter went out today, which is kind of frustrating lol. I'll be getting one of those too.

I hope that helps ya!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks 4x4. I'm interested in the 120 amp. I'll likely keep the truck stock. The only mod to the electrical system I may consider is an upgrade to the lights (if its cheap enough).
Pardon the noob questions:
- What are the "big three"?
- Where exactly are you ordering the Alternator from?
- Which model? An eBay search for "1-Wire GM Alternator" pulls up lots of different models


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@saidiadude

The Big three is something that people refer to in car audio but it's still not a bad Idea to do if you're going to run a larger gauge for your charge line... they are as follows
#1. From alternator to battery positive ( charge line )
#2. From Battery negative to vehicle frame or body
#3. From Engine block to vehicle body or frame

The point of this is that with bigger lines you have less resistance, and it doesn't over heat as much.. But always remember the have a fuse inline on the charge cable. If you can afford it I'd recommend at least a 2 Gauge wire or bigger. Something that's cheap and works well would be Weld leads. Ya know like the ground cable.. It's a fairly large gauge wire and is high quality copper.. Those can support in excess of 600amps.. As for the fuse you want it to be about 80% of your lines capacity. That'll keep you from burning anything up.

I found this thread on a different forum and It explains everything quite well and goes into pretty good detail. How to upgrade the Big Three

As for the alternator I'm getting, I decided on the 120amp because I had to get a phone as well as a starter and alternator and was short on cash lol..

The one I picked is $76.00 shipped with a lifetime warranty. I like that he's in the states and has a very high positive feed back. He's got several of them and It should be here in about 3 days. At least that's what his shipping calculator says.

here's the link GM CHROME 1 ONE WIRE SBC CHEVY ALTERNATOR 120 AMP PE363 - eBay (item 330528767801 end time Mar-10-11 17:25:25 PST)

I really hope this helps ya out!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks 4X4. Your detailed writeup really helped this noob. Will I need to upgrade my battery? I.e. Will the GM alternator overcharge my stock battery? As I mentioned, I'm keeping the truck stock (no stereo upgrades, etc) so I'm wondering if the GM is overkill for my needs.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@saidiadude

No it won't over charge your battery, That's what the internal regulator's job is. It tells the Alternator when to send current out the charge line, and when to stop current. It also keeps the Voltage in check. I've read some where that an unregulated alternator can put out 50+ volts, and that will fry your battery.. Again that's what the regulator is for, to prevent over charging and over voltage. Too much current ( Amps ) will not be a problem, think about it this way, Take my batter for example ** It puts out 875 amps at temps above 32 Degrees F. and puts out 700 below. Now that may only be for a few seconds like 10 - 15 but it's still easier to see that More Amps won't hurt, it's the Voltage you need to worry about. as long as it's under 16 Volts you'll be fine.. Most 12 volt DC Alternators put out between 13.8 and 15.0 volts when regulated.

These are self excited regulators so when the voltage hits a certain point it'll start charging, same for when it stops. Some of them you have to rev a lil bit each time to get it going others, do it on their own.. On that point I think it's trial and error, but not too much of a hassle.. Most people rev a lil when the fire up anyways.

The only problem you may run into is a slight decrease in Horsepower and MPG. Bigger alternators require more power to turn. generally you'll need 1 HP for every 746watts of power. Now this is in a perfect situation without any drag or interference. But with a 120 Amp alternator you'll need almost 2HP to turn it at full output which is reached at around 2200 RPM.. Again though Alternators can only put out about 80% - 85% of their total Capacity Continuously.

Also remember this, When your vehicle is running, all the power you're using is coming from your Alternator.. When your alternator cannot provide enough power then your battery steps in. Which in turn will drain your battery, because your Alternator is maxed and cannot charge your battery.. Which is why people see their headlights dimming with an after market sound system. your Battery's main job is to start your car and to keep things like your computer, ABS, Stereo and Alarms Memory active.

So in saying this, Pick the Alternator that suits what you need ( the 120 is almost if not double what the stock is. ) Do your big 3 ( Doesn't hurt anything ,and will improve your electrical system, remember with Electricity Bigger is Always Better!! ) and replace your battery only if it's tested out bad. Also for your connections at the battery try to use the Cast lead ones.. They're; cheap, conduct better(even when corroded), and will last longer.

I Tried to make sure I didn't miss anything, but if you have anymore questions Feel free to ask I really don't mind answering


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks 4X4. It's folks like you that make this a great forum to turn to for help. I'll ask questions as I think of them. A few I can think of:
- if I get the 3 wire, do I use the existing plug?
- do I need to make the adjustments as per the link given earlier
- what's with the chrome on the aftermkt pieces?


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@saidiadude

From what I can tell you won't be able to use the plug, It's for a GM SB or BB wiring harness.. I've talked to a few people around here, and one in particular I trust on anything Automotive. He told me that 1 one is really the only way to go, it's no hassle and does a great job. 

I think if you want to run a three wire, you'll need to get a GM Dongle, and wire it to the old connections.. Just make sure you get the wires right or you'll be in a world of hurt... I'm not exactly sure on that, so don't quote me just yet! I'll do some looking around and see what I come up with.

I'm not exactly sure on the adjustments, Refresh me on that and I'll do what I can for ya. Like adjustments where and so on.

As for the chrome, I'm not really sure but I would prefer it without.. But Again it keeps clean easier and sets your truck from the rest lol! 

From all the research I've done, This 1 wire is a great buy, good quality and should last a long time.. If not It does come with a lifetime warranty. I'm ordering it tonight. I'll let ya know when it comes in!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

I was referring to this link by Modified_lifestyles. As far as I can tell, this mod is not needed for our trucks.

*Edit:* Looks like Modified has not checked in for a while. It would be great to hear about his experience installing the 3-wire.
*Edit 2:* OK, I bit. 4X4, I ordered the same one you did. It should arrive on Tue or so.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

Sorry guys, with car Show season around the corner we've been busy getting our trucks ready  and the Second Alternator was purchased from that same seller.. it took 6 business days instead of the 4 days the shipping calculator claimed 

Okay, I found the 3 wire system to be easy and actually does a better job "talking" to the Alternator so it does a better job keeping up. I ran a wire from the #2 Sensing connection all the way to the positive in the battery and I cut the "Dummy" wire in the factory plug and connected it to the Field #1 .. the link I posted says to just jump from the #2 sensing to where the charge cable (BAT) goes but if you think about it.. that makes your alternator read it's own out put and doesn't know what the actual voltage is in the battery is so just take a couple of extra minutes and it will make your truck very happy! I noticed the voltage drops less and recovers faster with the 3 wire setup,for example: truck running (Idle) with nothing else on. 14.6V.. with headlights on 14.58V, with the 1 wire that would drop to 14.48V and it would take a few seconds to jump back to 14.6V, the 3 wire is instant.. and when I rev the motor it jumps to 15.1 and quickly drops to 14.6 at idle. Now, I've been talking to my friends about this and some think the fact that the fan blades turn the opposite in our Nissan's will not cool the alternator enough if you are not moving for long periods.. I have not had any trouble but I did find there are bi-directional blades sold for $15 online which will work.. again, my first swap was done in September and I have had NO problems and I abuse the crap out of my alternator with the compressor constantly running as well as the stereo, During a show where the temperatures were in the high 90's the truck sat in the sun and I would turn it on to fill my air tank and never had any trouble..


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

@saidiadude

The lady I talked to last night told me It would be about 2 - 3 days to get here ( I'm In northern Oklahoma ) I think it's being shipped UPS, which is a heck of a lot better than some others out there. 

I'm really looking forward to the potential of this Alternator.. I know you're going to keep yours stock, but I know you charge your cell or have a GPS or something and this will help.. Along with anything else, Some people have Power inverters and a small one can draw a lot of amps. 

In all honesty I don't think the stock alternator is big enough for the truck, it seems to be a weak point with any electrical upgrades to the truck.. Headlights taillights or even a small after market CD player.. At least with my experience. Most newer cars come with at least a 100amp so a 120 is a great mid ranged upgrade. Brand new, no core, and a lifetime warranty. Compared to a stock that's remanufactured with the same warranty, requires a core and is twice the price.


Modified [email protected]

It's good to hear back from ya! I know how those car shows go, my Uncle did them all over the norther east coast. So take your time and win!

It's nice to see that the 3 wire setup does work with minimal modifications. I do have a few questions on that and with the alternator it's self.

With the 3 wire did you have you order a 3 wire setup or did you just pop out the rubber stopper plug in the 1 wire? What did you use for a dongle if you did? I seen you didn't jump the Sensors.. From what i'm reading you " Ran the charge line for a 1 Wire setup and then ran the #2 sensing wire to the battery. The only wire you cut on the Nissan Harness was for the Idiot light, and hooked it up the the Field #1." Let me know if I missed anything!!

Now with the pulley/belts. The pulley on the 1 wire alternator should be fine correct? It looks to be a V belt pulley. As for the belts did you have to get a longer belt or did you use the stock Alternator belt?? Mine runs from the Crank to the Waterpump then to the Alternator. My Alternator is on the Passenger side and looks to be easiest to get to from the Passenger Wheel well. I was wondering if there's any Difference.

I'll take pix and try to get some video of what I do when the alternator gets here, to Hopefully help anyone else out. Along with the removal and installation of a the starter!

Also will try to get everything ready for a Big 3 upgrade along with pix and prices for what I used.. I'm going to do it as cheap as I can, without losing quality!

Thanks again Modified lifestyles You're a tremendous help!! I'm also glad that this thread has helped you out too saidiadude, good luck and keep me updated as to how yours goes!


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

all "1 wire alternators" have the 2 wires under the rubber plug so I just pulled it out and used female spades connectors to connect the wires to the alternator, I did ran a new wire to the battery and used the dummy on the factory plug.. the same belt will work however inspect it and if all the belts need to be changed.. it's a perfect time for that since you're working under the hood anyway. You might have to move some stuff out of the way to install the new alternator, they are much bigger/heavier than the stock alternator, in my case the electric radiator fan, the radiator fluid bottle thing and a black bottle thing which has hoses going right by the radiator hoses (please excuse my "technical terms" I will learn their name and purpose once I need to replace them  ).. you don't have to remove the hoses at all, just enough to slide the alternator in place.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

here are the pix of what I've done so far Pictures by sccopple - Photobucket

And the videos Before I removed the Tire YouTube - sccopple's Channel If you look you can see my $180.00 +shipping Transmission! I got it from http://www.car-part.com It's a great place to get anything you need for a vehicle if you don't mind slightly used parts!
And after I removed the tire YouTube - sccopple's Channel

Sorry about the quality and what not, I'm kinda new to making videos lol. I only was able to get the wheel off, I'll be able to take the starter and alternator off tomorrow, I had to wait for my jack stands, my friend was borrowing them.

My daughter loves to help and is good about holding my tools lol!!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing the pics 4x4. I'll probably work on mine in about a week and probably using your writeup as a guide. Perhaps we can create a sticky on this forum. 

Modified, the black bottle is likely the Power-steering fluid reservoir. I have to change the hoses on mine :-(

A bit off topic but I'm thinking of a few other mods since I'll have the system dismanteled anyway:

Modified, did you remove the fan on the waterpump permanently? I'm thinking of switching to an electric only fan, especially with the new alternator. Might as well use some of the potential of the new alternator.

Either one of you switch to a halogen headlight light system? If so, what mods were needed and how much did it cost? Would something like this work: link

*Edit:* Just saw the pics 4x4. We must have been posting at about the same time. Great start! BTW the alternator looks like it's seen better days.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

The headlights are Halogen, what you're wanting to do is HID ( High intensity Discharge ) With the Xenon Bulbs. There are kits out there that will work with your factory setup, but they're illegal. To be Legal you have to change the fixture, and get the proper ballast and make sure they've got the correct curve and alignment. 

Just because they're illegal doesn't mean you can't use them, as long as you're in an area that doesn't do inspections ( like here  ) you'll be fine! Just make sure you do adjust the lights to where they don't blind the others.. Something I was looking in to are 83-86 Nissan Hardbody 4x6 H4651/H4656/H4666 Projector Headlights They're just under $200.00 and they're true HID and legal!

I know they say they're for the 80's model but if I remember right, the headlights are the same size.

I also Second the question about the Electric fan.. Heard somewhere I could use one of an Altima??

As for the alternator, you're not kidding lol. When a loads put on it the thing just howls!!


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Update***

I got the Alternator and Starter out, More videos and pictures up. 

Pics - Pictures by sccopple - Photobucket
Videos - YouTube - sccopple's Channel

The new Alternator is in transit, shipped fedex(  ) Should be here tomorrow, or Monday. Hopefully tomorrow. When it get's her I'll take pix/video of the installation and fabrication if any.

Modified_lifstyles Can you take a look at this vid YouTube - sccopple's Channel I'm not sure what that is and if it's important on the Alternator. Thanks!! If it doesn't take you the right video, click on Odd Piece.

Starter and solenoid tested out good. So it's either a relay or the Ignition switch.. thought maybe the Clutch switch but I tired the interlock and it didn't make a difference. So I'll replace that and go from there!!

More to come soon, stay tuned!!!!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

4x4, many years ago, I had an Isuzu Amigo that I switched over to an electric fan. There was a noticable increase in the acceleration, especially at the lower speeds. Fuel economy also increased by 1 or 2 mpg. I had purchased the fan kit (with thermostat included) from either Pepboys or Kragen for under $100. The eBay seller we bought our alternators from has a fan only for a reasonable price. The kit was an easy install but the fan's thermostat (looked like a thick needle) had to be inserted in parallel between the upper radiator hose and the metal radiator. The clamp went around the entire assembly. I was sure that the assembly would leak but it never did. I'm thinking of doing the same install for this truck.

BTW, thanks for the info on the HID. That upgrade will have to wait for a while as I'll get better bang for my buck with the electric fan install (and resulting mpg savings).

*Edit:* did you buy the 0 gauge wire and associated wire? If so, where did you purchase the stuff? I know that Home Depot used to have great prices for wire.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

My Alternator didn't have that odd looking thing and it looks a bit different.. so I have no idea what it is . .


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

My truck is body dropped so I had to get a shorter Radiator (Acura Integra) and an electric fan for clearance purposes.


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Modified, which fan did you use? What type of thermostat/sensor for the fan? I'm out of town this week so I can't look at the truck. I seem to recall that there's a coolant/temp sensor somewhere near the engine thermostat. It would be interesting to see what sort of output this sensor has - if we get lucky, it may work with a relay connected to an electric fan.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

We just finished fixing a Squeal on the Nissan.. I could never get that tensioner tight enough on the belt so at high speeds it would squeal.. so do get a smaller size belt.. I believe the stock nissan belt is something like 173460 so get the 173455, last digits are 55 for sure. just ask the for the next size smaller and they'll know.. if you get the 50 it's a BiAtCh so avoid it! trust me it's $5 but it will make things a lot quieter!


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

saidiadude said:


> which fan did you use? What type of thermostat/sensor for the fan? fan.


Home Zirgo

I am sure the one's from Ebay are okay for the price.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

The new Alternator is here, just showed up about 10 minutes ago. Didn't take all that long, with the weekend included it got here in 5 days. It is a bit bigger than the old one, Noticeably at that! The mounting holes are different also, but it shouldn't be a big problem. All I need now is the Charge line and the Belts, I should have those by tomorrow. We'll see how well it works!

Pics Pictures by sccopple - Photobucket

@modified_lifestyles 

Which wires are what I one stock harness, and which wires are what I on the Alternator? 

Thanks again!!


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

you already have the answers on your pictures! OEM black, Ground I repleced my charge wire so I think the OEM was a thick white wire before the upgrade.... on the OEM harness the Thicker one is your sensing and the smaller one your dummy light.. Dummy goes on #1, sensing on #2, charge wire on "BAT" and finally ground on the threaded hole opposite of the charge line.. no I ran a wire to bypass the oem sensing wire all the way to the battery since my batteries are in the bed.


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Did you replace the fusable link as well? Will the OEM one handle the new load or does it have to be upgraded as well?


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Hey Modified_lifstyles!

Do you have pictures of your install? or anything that could help with the brackets? Because things are no where near lining up! I've even tried installin it upside down. The fan blades of the Alternator catch on the top bracket, and the bottom isn't correct for what I need.. It's looking like I'll have to fab a bottom bracket, and possibly the top bracket as well  

I hope this is a localized problem, since You guys have the 2wd KA24E and I have the 4wd KA24E. Maybe the brackets are setup different! I'm hoping so lol, that way I could just get the 2wd brackets instead of making my own 

I'm really confused lol, any help would be awesome!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Mine arrived today but I won't be able to look at the truck till Saturday (out of town). Will let you know then if everything lines up. I have a copy of the manual (zip file). Send me your email address in a PM if you'd like a copy. I know that my '96 is covered but I dont recall which other years/models are covered.


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

.. hmmmm . .. mine is a 2wd and it does have to go upside down, the tentioner will pull the alternator far enough apart so the fan blades will clear that bracket! It's dark already but I'll shoot some video and pictures for you tomorrow.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

I've made some headway!! 

Got a Power #4 AWG and ground #6 AWG wire. This is "temporary". Will be upgrading to at least 1/0 AWG for the connections. The power wire cost a pack of smokes and a pint of whiskey. (around $12 for 6ft) Already had the ground wire, so it was free. Got some bolts and I'm going to see about getting it fit tomorrow.

I'm going to try upside down, and see how well it clears everything, Also I hope I got long enough bolts.

Instead of using female spades and some wire, I decided to use the GM plug for the Alternator, It's about $4 at the part store, will be there tomorrow.

I may run new wires depending on the shape of the stock ones to the battery and dummy light. Will be doing that with #10 AWG if needed.

Btw I called around for prices on wires. 1/0 AWG at a local music store was $6.50 ft and at the Local Welding suppy it was $4 ft. Equal Quality, and strand counts. also found this neat site that does all the way up to 4/0 AWG.. Wire & Cable For Solar and Battery Systems


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Go down to the local "electric company" or "electrical wiring guys", ya know, the guys that do the house and business wiring. If they're anything like the guys in my area, they'll have a scrap chunk of big fat stranded stuff laying around that isn't any good to them and they'll probably let you have it for dirt cheap.
Don't bother calling, just go down there, and try to bypass the person behind the desk up front, try to catch one of the guys heading out to a truck or something. And don't tell them you're trying to modify your truck. Tell them you need to run an extra power wire from your 'house battery' up to your 'engine battery' in your motorhome 'cause you smoked the last one trying to start the rig...or something like that.


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks for the link to the Nissan factory manuals jdgrotte. Another option for wiring is to check out Pepboys. They had about 3feet for $10ish. Battery terminal and loop connector were already attached. Red or black color 2gauge, longer lengths available. Quality seemed pretty good so I'll probably buy these. Weather has not been co-operating here so I haven't had a chance to work on the truck.


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Finally got a chance to pull the old alternator. I had to remove one of the radiator hoses to get the alternator out. The new one lines up perfectly but as Modified stated, it has to be mounted upside down (GM harness on side facing the engine). The fins on the fan barely clear the bracket by a couple of millimeters! I'll buy the GM harness tomorrow and 2 spade plugs to connect it to the Nissan harness. I'll also have to buy a longer top bolt+nut and a new bottom bolt (shorter+different threads).

More questions for you guys:
- If you left the old harness in place, how did you connect the new wire to the existing wire at the battery? If you REPLACED the old wire, how and where did you connect the rest of the wiring (fusible links, etc) to the new wire? I'll likely buy a pre-assembled 2 gauge wire kit at Pep Boys (battery terminal and loop already connected). I'm trying to figure out if there is an easy way to splice into this wire.

- 4x4, where did you get an inline fuse for the alternator positive? I don't see it in your pics. I may skip this step since my truck will be mostly stock other than the substitution of the electric fan.

- For stock setups, I assume there's no need to upgrade the power wire to the fuse box (along with the fusible link)?

- The stock harness seems to have 4 or 2 gauge wire at the negative battery terminal (to chassis and engine ground). I may upgrade just the alt-to-battery charge wire as it seems to be the weak point. Any reason to change the ground if the wire seems OK? The connector to the terminal needs to be changed which should be a minor issue.

BTW, it's a good idea to replace the PCV valve at this point. It's near the oil filter and easy to get to with the alternator out.

Something else to consider: some of my vacuum hoses seem to be cracked. I found an easy way to change them. Work through the entire engine and wrap masking tape around each vacuum hose as a marker. Once all of them are marked, go through the hoses one at a time and replace them. If you try to replace a few at a time, you'll forget which hose connected to which fitting (don't ask how I know - sigh). You know you've replaced all of them when there are no hoses left with tape on them


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

I got mine on It works quite well! I've seen 14.7 volts. 

It didn't clear the bracket no matter what I did to fix it.. So I switched the Pulleys, the one off my old alternator is on the new one. That way I could use the same belt. I did take the fan off, Which didn't make it run hot at all. I've tested that fairly well. It does get warm ( No more than the old one did ) but I am able to hold my hand on it. plus it's got plenty of air flow from the radiator fan and the missing splash guard in the wheel well.. Give it time and we'll see.. If needed I'll get a smaller fan, but that does seem a bit hard to find, so I'll go scavenge in some junk yards. If I can't I'll get some 12v DC PC fans.

For the mounting bolts you'll need a 8 1.25 mm on top( That's what I used, but anything with that Diameter should work well), go with about a 3.5 - 4 inch and for the bottom you'll need a 5/16 and go with a 5.5 in maybe 6in.. you will need some washers to line it up correctly.. Also make sure you use at least Grade 5 bolts, You can get those at any parts store. Don't use ones from Lowe's or anything made for wood, it can't hold up to the tension and they don't have the correct tensile strength.

I didn't run an Inline fuse, I was talking around and thinking.. a bit about it.. As long as you have a large ( i did #4 AWG for now Which was 1.62 a ft at Airgas) enough wire run you'll be fine. Plus a fuse will cause resistance, restricting flow. Just make sure you have any peripheral devices fused.

Any work you can afford while you're able to access it is probably a good Idea!! Don't forget to upgrade your grounds, and make sure you run a large enough wire to the Starter!!! I piggy backed mine from the Alternator.. So it goes from the battery to the Alternator then to the Starter.. It works well!

Granted now I can't start the truck but it's unrelated to the wiring i did. It has to do with either the starter or the ignition lol.. I'll get into that later on another post.

I do have pix and I'm posting them now if anyone cares to see what I've done! http://s1114.photobucket.com/albums/k525/sccopple/

Thanks for following Saidiadude and thanks for all the help modified_lifstyes!!!


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

It's still going great, Been checking the bolts every so often to see if they've loosened. The voltage never drops below 14.4 volts during normal use. All around it's been a fantastic hack. I'm for sure going to get a bigger one, and possibly see about one or two more where the air conditioner compressor would go. Maybe install clutches so they don't use too much horsepower, and use them to power bigger things. Maybe even as a welder, but that's for another time. 

So here are my findings to the best of my abilities. With limited income and expenditure to get this swap working correctly.

Total cost with all parts, shipping and labor included = $130.00 Does include big 3 upgrade.

the alternator alone with the necessary hardware, 3 foot of 4 gauge wire, 18 inches of 10 gauge wire and the correct connections will run about $90.00

A remanufactured Alternator from an auto parts store with a limited lifetime warranty averages around $160.00 + core it’s only 60 amps, and does do the job.

A brand new Alternator with the same warranty, double the amperage, and shiny chrome (Only thing I don’t like about it) is only $76.00 shipped no core.

On a difficulty scale of 1 – 10 I’ll give this a 3.5 to a 4.0 depending on your skill level.

Basic tools like socket, wrenches, screw drivers, and wire cutters/strippers. Is all you’ll need for this. 

Good luck and I hope this thread has helped and will help many more people!


Next are my findings with the Alternators performance over a few weeks.

With a full load on the electrical system, which include:
Parking and headlights, interior lights, aux lights, Heater at full blast, 1000 watt stereo system playing at maximum volume level without distortion (also louder than I would ever normally play it), phone charging and being used as a portable internet hot spot while streaming music for the stereo, inverter charging a laptop which is on the internet streaming video, and the vehicles ignition and computer systems.

All this for the most electrical draw I would ever need at one time in the worst case scenario.


Parked at Idle:
The lowest I’ve seen the voltage drop was to 13.6Volts with a heavy long bass note.

While driving: 
With the same variables it drops to 14.1 volts at the lowest point.


Without a load, besides the basic needs of the vehicle:

It stays at 14.6 volts to 14.7 volts whether driving or at idle.

In normal operation conditions:

Day time it stays around 14.5 volts – 14.6 volts
Night time it goes to 14.4 volts to 14.6 volts.

Any questions feel free to message me!!!


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Thanks for the update 4x4. I've been swamped at work recently, so have only been able to work on the truck on Saturdays. I also did some additional work on the vehicle since I had access to areas normally covered by the alternator. I changed the power steering hoses and flushed the PS system, replaced the vacuum hoses, flushed the cooling system, and changed the PCV valve.

Alternator: The good news is that mine is up and running as well (I'll post details in a few days). I bought a cheapie voltage checker that plugs into the lighter. It doesn't give me an exact number but the LEDs show the range of the voltage. So far, it's been running great but I did see it flicker into the high voltage area for a few minutes once. That may have been a fluke or due to the lower quality (or old) wires in the OEM lighter setup. I upgraded the 3 wires but left the starter alone as it was working fine. I had to remove the fan on the alternator also as the clearance was too small. More on this later.

Unfortunately, the check engine light came on. Scared me, as I thought I might have connected something wrong. Plugged in a code reader and it turns out that it's an issue with the Vacuum system. I had forgotten to change the vac hoses at the back of truck, so it may be one of these. A quick search on the forums shows that Evap Canister valve is easy to clean, so I've tried that first. If the check engine light stays off, I'll replace the hoses in a few weeks when I get some time. BTW, the codes were P0440, P0443 and P1130 - all related to the Evap Canister system. 

Next up: Valve cover gasket replacement and engine cleaning. I may change the front seal as well as I noticed a drop of oil hanging off the crankshaft pulley. Still very tempted to do the electric fan upgrade as well, especially now that the alternator has been upgraded. The truck will stay stock otherwise.

Looking forward to seeing the results of your test 4x4.


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## zack. (Nov 19, 2009)

Any updates or pics for us?


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

The Alternator is still working great. Mounting bolts and belts are all tight. Still a strong reading of 14.6~

I have run into an annoyance, but it’s mild. Just a squeal, I’m not sure if it’s a belt or the bearing.

Not saying it's crapped out, I think the bearing needs lubricated. I’m not sure how water tight it really is but I think some of the lubricant has been washed off. I don’t think it’s intended for off road use. I did buy it from a Street performance Ebay store.

So my results aren’t typical, if you use this Alternator under normal circumstances. Like on a street only truck, show truck, or mild off road use (muddy dirt roads, and snow). Basically if you’ve got a 2wd you’re golden.

It's odd though, it only squeals on start up, and only until it get's to 14.6V. Regardless of weather, or temperature.

To be safe and before I knock it, I'm going to change the belt and see the pulley again before I make a for sure decision. 

I was out testing the 4x4, well at least the Transfer Case and the Transmission. I got some work done in February, and haven't got to test until recently. Starting and charging problems, so I didn't want to get stranded.

I had just got the starter fixed (if you have ever run the battery down more than 3 times I’d recommend replacing the solenoid and contact brushes. It’s cheap, about $60 total half the cost of a rebuilt one. Which you had just done for half the price.) 

And done the Alternator Upgrade So I was ready to see what my new toy was capable of.

I know I've had the alternator submerged if not real close, in dirty nasty water. It was on accident, the hole was deeper than I expected. The alternator kept working, and is still charging. I haven’t been able to test the Amperage yet, but the voltage is still mid 14 volt. The battery stays close to 13 volts so I know it’s charging.

Even when sprayed with high pressure water to clean it, it still performs flawlessly.


I'm still not done testing this Alternator, Soon I'm going to see how big of an inverter it can run reliably, also how much lighting it can handle.


In my honest opinion, this is a worthwhile upgrade or mod. It’ll save you some cash, and give you more electrical power.

The truck is a " 1993 Nissan D21 KC 4x4 Base Model, It has a Manual Transmission and the KA24E Engine. It was manufactured in Tennessee. "


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## Modified lifestyles (Feb 12, 2011)

I Had that squeal also and it is the belt, just go to the store and ask for the next two sizes (Smaller) than the stock alternator belt and I can't remember which one it is on but there is no squeak at all, belts are only like $6 and you can return the one you don't use so just try it, my alternator is still working great, the truck is bagged and bodydropped so my wheel wells have been cut out and tons of water just sprays the engine bay/alternator and I do live in the great Northwest where it rains pretty much all the time and it is still working like a Champ.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Thank you again Modified_lifestyles, And thank you for recommending the Alternator!

I was thinking it was the belt more than anything, it only happens at startup and only for a few seconds. at a max of 10-15 seconds. It's not that annoying. I mean I put a lot of stress on it, for extended periods and It still performs great. So I'll replace it when I get the chance.

Since the Alternator is at maximum draw at start up. It takes a bit of electricity to get the alternator to start charging from a dead stop. There's a giant electromagnet in there so to break free it's going to take some power. I think I may have glossed the belt or got some grease on it. Which would cause the pulley to spin inside the belt, and make the belt squeal.

Now I did swap the pulleys to the original. The one that comes on the chrome Alternator is smaller and wider. I didn't want it spinning to fast in the higher RPM ranges. That and I like the way the pulley of the original Alternator fits the belt. Also I wanted to try and reuse my old belt lol. 

So I guess I'll be getting a new belt, but like I said before. It's a wonderful Alternator, and it's worth every penny I've spent on it!

I'm adding more detailed photos, and maybe a Step by step in pdf if anyone is interested. It will be in more detail with photos, if enough people ask for it I'll make it.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

4X4 said:


> Since the Alternator is at maximum draw at start up. It takes a bit of electricity to get the alternator to start charging from a dead stop. There's a giant electromagnet in there so to break free it's going to take some power. I think I may have glossed the belt or got some grease on it. Which would cause the pulley to spin inside the belt, and make the belt squeal.


Not exactly true, but you're practically on the right track.
If the alternator took a bunch of juice to get it to start making juice from a dead stop, you wouldn't be able to spin it with your hand while it's in your other hand. The rotor/stator coils don't actually get energized and doing their thing (i.e. becoming electromagnets) until it actually gets spinning.
The 'breaking free' you're thinking of is actually the initial load of alternator and regulator trying to replace the juice that just got used in starting the engine. Newer vehicles have the ECU controlling the alternator regulator and ramp up the alternator voltage output over a few seconds rather than trying to get it all immediately.
Reminds me a bit of 'back in the day' when a guy would have to take some emery cloth to the pulley grooves to roughen them up a bit to help get a bit of a grip on the belts to make them stop squealing...


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Checking in as well. Mine is running extremely as well. 4x4, I had a squeal on startup as well. I thought the belt was the problem but it turned out to be the lock washer on the pulley. You have to replace it if you ever remove or loosen the nut (I removed the fan, like you did). After I replaced the washer, I haven't had any problems and I'm currently using the original belt. BTW, the nut has to be removed/replaced with an impact wrench.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

Thanks Saidiadude

That makes sense, It's a cheap fix too! Yeah it's easiest to take them off with a Impact wrench, just make sure you're careful when putting it back on as to to not over tighten it. That could cause the spindle end to mushroom, and make it very difficult to remove again!

I'm still glad with the operation of the Alternator. I highly recommend doing the swap.


Jdg

lol I was pretty sure I was close, It's been awhile and I wanted to try and explain to the best of my knowledge. I wonder what would happen if you took an alternator that wasn't mounted and applied current to it. Would it spin on it's own, would it be difficult to spin? As in how much force is actually required to Generate the current. like how much horsepower and torque ect... 

Sorry I was babbling lol, It still amazes me that Generators create DC current that's converted to AC and Alternators create AC and are converted to DC... Maybe it's simple and I'm an idiot! I'd really like to know.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

4X4 said:


> Jdg
> 
> lol I was pretty sure I was close, It's been awhile and I wanted to try and explain to the best of my knowledge. I wonder what would happen if you took an alternator that wasn't mounted and applied current to it. Would it spin on it's own, would it be difficult to spin? As in how much force is actually required to Generate the current. like how much horsepower and torque ect...
> 
> Sorry I was babbling lol, It still amazes me that Generators create DC current that's converted to AC and Alternators create AC and are converted to DC... Maybe it's simple and I'm an idiot! I'd really like to know.


An alternator won't spin on it's own if you apply power to it, at least not without modifying it a bit (i.e. removing the diode packs, pulling the regulator, etc).

In theory, 746 watts = 1 HP. In practice, with frictional losses and such, it's roughly 1,000 watts = 1 HP. But when making power, the losses fight against you, so you'd need about 2 HP to make about 1,000 watts of power (12v @ 83 amps)....roughly that is.

And generators generally have permanent magnets in them as their main source of magnetism. You can spin a generator without any external power and make power.
Alternators have a coil of wire which needs power. In short, you gotta have juice, to make juice.


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## 4X4 (Nov 2, 2010)

I've read somewhere that in a perfect world you'll get 746 watts with one HP. Now in my figurings To find out the exact or at least closest amount of Horsepower, we need to figure out how many watts our Alternator can or will generate in a 100% favorable condition.

So we'll take The Voltage and the Amps. I know my Voltage plateaus at 14.6Volts, and for the Amperage I'll go with what It's rated which is 120Amps at 2200 RPM, and 80 at Idle. I need to get a hold of a better Multimeter and find out my exact Amperage. Though as for now the stock figures will suffice.

We take the Amps and multiply them by the Volts to get Watts.. so It's like this Amps x Volts = Watts..

Okay so we will do 120amp and 14.6 volts, so that's 120x14.6=1752 So my Alternator Theoretically puts out 1752 watts. Now this would be in a perfect setting and with no variables.

With that we'll find the needed horsepower it'll take to turn my alternator past 2200rpm to Generate 120Amps at 14.6Volts.

So we'll take the watts and divide by 746 to get the horsepower needed. 1752/746=2.35 So it's going to take close to 2.5HP to turn my alternator the get 120amps at 14.6 Volts... Again in a perfect world.

But I want to know how much torque, I'm sure If I searched around enough I could figure it out.. But my 130hp engine is now able to put out 127.5 usable, and that's not including loss on the way to the wheel and along with the powersteering pump among other things.

I have a feeling by the time the power hits the wheels it's close to 115 or less.

So With what you're saying it takes 746 watts to generate one HP, so wouldn't 1 hp create 746 watts in the same sense or would it be something different? I hate most of this electrical stuff, it gets confusing fast lol.

All in all I thank you very much JDG you've been quite helpful.... but what happened to your link the the Factory Manual?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Perfect world = 1 HP = 746 Watts
So, one HP of spinning should make 746 watts. But, again, frictional losses, magnetic eddy currents, coil resistance, blah blah blah, make that 746 watts drop a bit.

Conversely, an electric motor drawing 746watts of input should make 1 HP at the shaft. But, again, the same losses kill the motors output the same way they kill the electrical output above.

In general, when I'm think about this sort of thing, I go with a pretty good "fudge factor" of about 33% depending on which way I'm converting stuff...

One HP into a generator will give me a good 500 watts...losses kill the wattage.
500 watts into an electric motor will give me a good 1/2 HP....losses kill the HP.

So, in your particular case, 120 amps @ 14.6v would take about 3.5HP to produce, and that's HP measured at the engine, not at the wheels. Depending on the type of drivetrain an a hundred other variables, that 3.5HP used to drive the alternator might be something like 7 HP lost at the wheels.

Don't forget that HP is a function of RPM and Torque, which throws another wrench into the mix. You can have all the torque in the world, but if it isn't spinning anything, you've got ZERO HP. Same thing with RPM. You could have something spinning at a million rpm, but if you can stop that shaft with your fingers, there's no torque behind it and therefore, no usable HP.


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## saidiadude (Mar 31, 2008)

Update: My alternator started failing a little while ago. It died last month and I had to return it to SkipWhite. Pretty painless process, except for the $20 shipping to them AND the 2 weeks of down time (1 week to ship there, 1 week to ship back). They've sent the wrong alternator - 105Amp vs the 120Amp I originally had. Haven't had a chance to hook it up yet but a quick check shows that everything should line up correctly. I may need a new electrical connector though. Any idea as to the difference between the 105Amp and the 120Amp (other than the 15Amps output)? They seem to look and weigh about the same. A side note: the 120Amp had a pretty nice chrome finish but the 105Amp has a horrible bubbled chrome finish. This is coming from someone who doesn't normally care about the chrome finish. If the finish is that bad, I'm concerned about the rest of the quality control :-( The 105Amp also looked a bit oily/greasy whereas the 120 was spotless. If I return it, I have to wait at least another 2 weeks for a new one :-( 

GRRRRRR!!!!


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