# CVT Fail Safe advice please



## block215 (Jan 27, 2010)

I own a 2010 Altima with the cvt of course. About 15 months or so ago, before last summer, I got my tranny flushed but with what I believe to be Castrol CVT fluid and not the NS-2. Ever since then every time I have driven on the highway around 75+ mph during hot days the car of course will go into fail safe mode.

I then had a tranny cooler installed. Didn't work. The warm weather is back and the tranny runs perfectly fine except during those hot days when I assume the non-Nissan tranny fluid gets too hot.

My question is if I get another transmission flush, 230,000 miles btw, and get the NS-2 fluid put back into my transmission would the car go back to riding normal during hot days on the highway? Is this an option or am I totally screwed?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

In short, don't know; the clutch packs (forward and reverse clutches and plates) may be worn, in addition to the belt and pulleys (drive and driven), and there are springs and bearings as well; but, Nissan recommends (in fact, states so in the SM) that a proper flush should go through 30% more NS-2 qts than system capacity, to (try to) ensure all previous fluid is out. The flush is a straightforward process on these years; you can do it yourself: car hot/CVT at operating temp; turn car off; position catch basin (container) under CVT inlet hose from cooler - remove bottom splash shield to aid fluid collection process; remove inlet hose from cooler (the one that goes back to the CVT after cooling/heat exchange); start car and let CVT pump out just 2 qts into catch container while simultaneously beginning to refill those 2 qts through a clean funnel down the dipstick pipe - use NS-2; then turn car off AS SOON AS 2 qts flow out - use a pre-marked container so you know when 2 qts have come out; with car still off, finish replenishing those 2 qts with new NS-2; repeat 2 qts out (car running) and 2 qts in (car running then car off) until fluid comes out clean/new/fresh; clean and button up hose, replace splash shield, get new fluid up to operating temps, check level - adjust as necessary; done.

Have a helper who will start the car for you and who will stop the car as soon as you see the 2 qts drained out each time. 

The fluid will come out faster than you can refill - that is why the car will get turned off and the remainder of the 2 new qts will be added back down the CVT filler pipe through the funnel with the car then being turned off.

For a 2.5L, capacity is 8 3/4 qts; so, you should flush through ~11 qts. Have 11 new NS-2 qts on-hand and ready to be poured.

230k is great for these CVTs. Lots of folks never make it this far or even the first 100k.

Saw a recent report that said only 53% of new car buyers (across the US) purchased the same manufacturer. This is likely one reason why ...


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## block215 (Jan 27, 2010)

Wow, thanks for the tremendous reply. I appreciate it. I will definitely look into this asap!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Sounds its probably worth trying seeing it wont be that expensive compared to a new transmission, but I don't buy the notion that only Nissan packaged cvt fluid will work. Nissan does not make any of its own fluids. Castrol Transmax CVT fluid states that it can be used in place of NS1, 2 and 3. Why not take it up with Castrol if that is what is causing the problem. Is it possible that it was not filled to the proper level? Seems suspect to me to blame the fluid when it could well be part of the cvt or a sensor within it. Your car is not that old but it does have the equivalent of 370,000+ kms on it. You are way beyond what Nissan warranties them for. Maybe they simply aren't engineered to go at 75+ miles an hour in 90 F temps for extended periods. Does the same thing happen if you keep it at 70 or lower?


https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=...rpTGqdpRCf_FDR_yw&sig2=8lqn7JTc9qWjPPC3C0AeuQ


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## block215 (Jan 27, 2010)

hey guys, I have a question. After what you just said and seeing how everyone who does a flush uses 5 quarts, I think I remember buying about 7 or 8 when I had my guy do the flush with a machine. I'm thinking if I can just drain some of it, because I checked the dipstick and the fluid is overfilled, that maybe it'll run as normal.

How can I drain a couple quarts out of the tranny? I don't remember a drain plug where the oil is stores on this particular car. Can you drain it thru the tranny cooler or what?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

block215 said:


> I own a 2010 Altima with the cvt of course. About 15 months or so ago, before last summer, I got my tranny flushed but with what I believe to be Castrol CVT fluid and not the NS-2. Ever since then every time I have driven on the highway around 75+ mph during hot days the car of course will go into fail safe mode.
> 
> I then had a tranny cooler installed. Didn't work. The warm weather is back and the tranny runs perfectly fine except during those hot days when I assume the non-Nissan tranny fluid gets too hot.
> 
> My question is if I get another transmission flush, 230,000 miles btw, and get the NS-2 fluid put back into my transmission would the car go back to riding normal during hot days on the highway? Is this an option or am I totally screwed?


I'll assume a pressurized machine flush was done to your transmission. At this point you don't have much choice but to replace the Castrol oil with NS-2 with several drain/refills at short intervals to get as much of the old oil out. Transmission flushes are usually high priced gimmicks. Unless you're having some major transmission problems don't waste your money.

A flush is a pressurized fluid push through the transmission, and although a good machine can exchange around 98% of the old fluid for new, there is the possibility of damage. There is an internal liability once the transmission has some wear/aging on it. The internal seals may not handle that much force on them, and if they break, that vehicle won't be driving out of the shop, or if it does, look for big problems down the road. The unit will basically have to be rebuilt. I would recommend a fluid change only and this is what Nissan also recommends. With this service, you will not get all the fluid out of the transmission. There will be fluid trapped in the torque converter (4-6 quarts) and as much as 4 quarts trapped in other places like the cooler and cooler lines etc. You may only get 4-6 quarts of old fluid drain out.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

quadraria10 said:


> ... Is it possible that it was not filled to the proper level? ...


Block, Quad makes a great point ... and, considering you're saying the fluid level is too high, what is the fluid level when checked per the Owner's Manual process? When you saw it high, was car off or on ... was car at operating temp or cold ... was car level or slanted?


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## esh21167 (Aug 13, 2017)

I have a 2007 Altima with 240k miles. Bought it at 90k. Always whined a little. Usually driven 20-30 mile trips with occasional 100-150 mile trips.

Couple days ago we load the car for my daughter to go to college 7 hours away.After about 225 miles at 70 mph through West Virginia mountains this problem arose. Pulled over. Cvt fluid pushed out the breather tube puddling on the engine and basically burning from the block temp.Found a Nissan dealer 10 miles away. Drove there after a 20 minute wait.

Car drove fine while keeping it at 55. Fluid level is good though very slightly burnt odor. Service manager and tech said that it was barely noticeable and not concerned. No CEL. Dealer found no codes. They said when this happens it's like the beginning of the end but could probably limp it along.

So we risk it and drive another 250 miles at 55-60 mph to destination with no issues. Drivability is fine.

Will be getting it checked but I honestly don't think it's catastrophe time. Given the mileage and the fluid was never changed for over 100k maybe a 50% change would be a good idea.


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## Ricobob (Jun 25, 2017)

*You did not remove the Tranny Pan?*



Car guy said:


> In short, don't know; the clutch packs (forward and reverse clutches and plates) may be worn, in addition to the belt and pulleys (drive and driven), and there are springs and bearings as well; but, Nissan recommends (in fact, states so in the SM) that a proper flush should go through 30% more NS-2 qts than system capacity, to (try to) ensure all previous fluid is out. The flush is a straightforward process on these years; you can do it yourself: car hot/CVT at operating temp; turn car off; position catch basin (container) under CVT inlet hose from cooler - remove bottom splash shield to aid fluid collection process; remove inlet hose from cooler (the one that goes back to the CVT after cooling/heat exchange); start car and let CVT pump out just 2 qts into catch container while simultaneously beginning to refill those 2 qts through a clean funnel down the dipstick pipe - use NS-2; then turn car off AS SOON AS 2 qts flow out - use a pre-marked container so you know when 2 qts have come out; with car still off, finish replenishing those 2 qts with new NS-2; repeat 2 qts out (car running) and 2 qts in (car running then car off) until fluid comes out clean/new/fresh; clean and button up hose, replace splash shield, get new fluid up to operating temps, check level - adjust as necessary; done.
> 
> Have a helper who will start the car for you and who will stop the car as soon as you see the 2 qts drained out each time.
> 
> ...


  So... You never removed the pan to see if there was "gunk" build up in the pan? Why not? Seems a good thing to do in my humble opinion.

I realize the CVT's do not have friction plates (to the best of my recollection), but still what would it hurt to take the pan down and take a look see? If there was any metal in the pan doing a so-called flush as you have described would seem to just stir up the metal debris and they would be traveling thru the tranny?

Why not take the pan down pour out what fluid is in the pan (to be able to measure what is there - to replace the same quantity) then replace the inspected and "cleaned" pan with a new pan gasket, then replace what fluid was in the pan via the fill tube (dip stick charge) and then begin your flush process by removing the inlet hose from the radiator cooler, and do the 2 qts out and 2 qts in until it runs clean?

Please provide your feedback on my proceedure. Thanks! Richard:|

PS: BTW... The 2010 2.5S CVT capacity is 7-3/4 quarts (not 8.75)!


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