# Flip Flop Trunk b14 Sentra



## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

I found instructions online and was worried about the last step (If it doesn’t latch tightly you may have to take in and out the stock bottom bolts each time you want to fold down your trunk lid. (This may work better if your not going to fold it down all the time). ) Does anyone that has done this to a B14 have problems with the latch not latching tightly? I'd hate to do this and have to work on it each time I want to flop the trunk.

Thanks, I'll post instrctions as well in case anyone else wants to try it.





Materials Needed: 
• (2) 3-inch latches, regular size latches will work fine, heavy duty ones just make for more work 
• (2) triangular hinges like as pictured in the instructions 
• (Approx. 15) Tapered head screws (the ones that could be flushed into the hinges) 



1)With the trunk open mark the trunk lid at the top of the stock brackets by either scratching the paint or using a colored marker.

2)Lay towels along the side of your car, and with a friend remove the trunk lid by unbolting the stock 4 bolts (Hondas 10mm other cars may be different). Do not remove the stock brackets, only the trunk lid. Either cut or disassemble the zipties for the cables on the side of the hinge to fully remove the trunk.


3)With the lid off of the stock hinges, lay the new hinge on the lid for marking. The new hinge should be flat side down, with the circular part of the new hinge facing you, not the lid. Line up the top of the lower bracket to the marked line on the lid. Flatten the hinge on the lid and mark the lid for drilling. Using the screws that came with the brackets, attach hinge to the trunk lid by hand, not a drill. Repeat this step with the other side. Once both hinges are on, you are ready to reattach the trunk lid. 


4)With help, lift the trunk lid to stock brackets. With the lid flipped down like it will be when you’re finished, line up the new hinge on the stock hinge for marking. Mark the holes on the stock hinges to pre-drill your new holes. Put lid back on the floor, and drill out the holes. When the new holes are drilled, attach new hinges to the stock ones using the screws. As said before, screw in the screws by hand, not a drill. Once all screws are in place, the trunk lid should be in the flipped down position. The lid should rest on the car in a flattened position. If it is flipped down too much, you may need to bend the upper hinge down to allow the lid to rest against the car. 


5)Lift lid to the stock normal position and reattach stock bolts to hold lid up. Connect the first latch about 2 inches from the bottom of the trunk lid. Repeat for the other side. Be sure they are mounted on the inside of the stock brackets, and are flat and not angled up or down. 


6)Mark a spot on the stock brackets to drill to allow the latch to lock. Be sure the latch will lock tightly and there is no play. Repeat on the other side. 


7)If it doesn’t latch tightly you may have to take in and out the stock bottom bolts each time you want to fold down your trunk lid. (This may work better if your not going to fold it down all the time). 

LINKS TAKEN FROM:
http://www.bulletmotorsports.net/flipfloptrunk.htm
http://articles.domestictunerz.com/article.php?ID=159


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## Nostrodomas (Jun 15, 2002)

The only problems I ran into were, when closing the trunk, the bolts holding on the hinges to the trunk lid and the trunk rods, there were not flush with the hinge. You might want to get a countersink, to further sink the bolts into the hinge. Trying to find counter sinking bolts is almost near impossible. So when I closed the trunk, the back end of the trunk, near the rear window, wasnt flush with the rear quarter panel.
When I finally got that taken care of, I had another problem. The damn thing was so wobbley. Everytime I closed my truck, I had to do it with two hands, very carfully. If I didnt I ran the risk of contacting the sides of the trunk and cause chipping. So what I did was, ran some cross braces, in the shape of an X, to stableize the truck. Even after all of that it rattled so damn bad, I just said Fook it and took the damn thing off. Now I am very happy with my stock trunk.  So In other words, Its not worth all of the headaches and troubles. Well for me anyways. If you have any problems or questions, feel free to contact me. Ill help you out anyway I can.


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## SUN-E (May 3, 2004)

that's a good effort man. I think I might try something similar but maybe a little more stable. I'll give it a shot pretty soon and let ya know what happens.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

did you have the 3 inch latches holding it on so you could open it normal? I think that should be enough to stablize it.


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## Nostrodomas (Jun 15, 2002)

No I did not have the latches.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

I think I may try it with the latches and let you know if it is very stable. If so you'd have a quick and easy job to get it back on, just put the hinges back on where the holes are predrilled...wanna trade trunks


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## bryanmckinlay (Apr 7, 2005)

hey guys
im new to the bnoard first off , so .....HI!!! second off

i havnt tried this yet

but ive come up with the idea of using a hooked spring

by cutting out the casing in my GF's Ion, thats holds the trunk brackets/hinges in place
ive removed both bolts, on each side, then replace one on each side, with a full smooth bolt and nut ( by drilling equal sized holes on each side), then with that in place, the trunk was able to pivot into suicide mode.

now with that i ran into the same problem with it being un stable and just moving aroudn freely ( like stated above) so i installed hooked spring onto the bolts. With the hook on the favopuring side the trunk would be forced to stay in the side position when it is open, and can be loaded for the trunk to be closed. 

Now, since i have a remote trunk release, the trunk will pop up , and the springs on the bolt will unload them selfs, forcing the trunk into suicide postion with out unstabability!

hope that helps for some of you, now i have never attemted this on a nissan, cuz im new to nissan, so im not sure how they operate! but if its simialr this might just work for some of you!!!

~Bryan Mckinlay


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

I had it like that for 2 days. The part near the winshield sat up higher then the rear and it rattled like nothing else.


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## Skoodles (Jul 31, 2004)

this mod may seem cool for a little while but boy does it get annoying this is what i did with mine took it out cause my system rattled way too bad with it.
















i dont have pictures of the full fnished projcet but i weleded 2 bars between the swing arms and a latch in the middle it was cool but not for long then i realized i was turning ricer and it scarred me for life


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