# Ka24e wont start! - Help



## OnePhatCLK (Dec 17, 2005)

Ok, let me give you a little history first. I changed the timing chain on my car about 3 month ago due to chain rattle/big oil leak. After I changed it the leak went away, but there was rattle at start up. As time progressed the rattle became more prevalent. On Christmas Eve the car had a really loud rattle on my way to work. While getting off the freeway off ramp the car lost power. I tried jump starting it, but I was pretty confident the battery was ok. To add to this, the week prior I noticed that when the car was idle it would run fine for 5 seconds and then the rpm drop to almost stalling then back to normal. It kept doing that. 

Fast forward, I tore apart the car and noticed the timing guide was in pieces but the main culprit was the nub where the tensioner presses against broke off. I put everything back together and went to start the car. The car turned but didn’t start. 

Things I have done, 

•	New battery – tested with voltmeter at 12.47
•	Cleaned all ground points – tested the engine and starter ground points and all came back at 12.47 
•	Double checked timing – TDC on compression , cam gear pointing pretty much straight up and dizzy pointing at #1 spark plug
•	Code on ECU was 11 which mean crank postion sensor. I tested point A and point D per the manual and they seemed ok. 
•	Pulled starter and took to autozone – they ran it several times and it had zero issues.
•	Checked wires and distributer cap with voltmeter and they were ok. 
•	Fuel pump turns on and pulled fuel filter to see if there was gas and there was. That all the testing done for fuel
•	Tried doing compression but the car won’t turn anymore 
•	Tested Ignition coil and it was fine

So as mentioned the car turned in the beginning but now it doesn’t or barely turns once. It usually just makes a click when I turn on the ignition. Since the cark isn’t turning over I can’t check compression.
When I turn the crank by hand it’s now very hard to turn. I can only turn it with a breaker bar (I was able to turn it by hand prior to the new chain). When I turn the crank I can feel vibration as if the crank is struggling to turn. 

I did all of this when it was raining off and on so I’m not sure if moisture plays a role. 

Before I throw my truck off the bridge I want to see if I’m missing something


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## OnePhatCLK (Dec 17, 2005)

anyone?....


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

When you set the Dizzy did you line up the oil pump shaft??? You did not mention that....If the timing was messed up I guess you could have two cyl's coming to TDC at the same time with both valves closed and therefore making it difficult to turn....have you tried turning it over with the plugs out???

I think I would pull the valve cover, check the timing marks on the chain, re-align the dizzy with TDC and the oil pump shaft and take it from there.....


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## TWX (Jan 29, 2010)

If it's really, really hard to turn the engine by hand then you might have had something break free to interfere. You could also have something wrong in the leading edge of the transmission dragging on the crank.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

u are probably 180 degrees off on the timing and bent the valves by turning it wioth a breaker bar or you have not set the oil pump timing correctly or both...


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Guess we will never know the outcome or solution.........


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## OnePhatCLK (Dec 17, 2005)

We will...I just have been so damn busy! Ok, well I hooked the a remote starter to the starter to hopefully turn the motor over to check compression. When I did that the starter spun but the spindle didn't pop out and engage. I ended up pulling the starter again and had it tested. It tested fine and I saw the spindle pop out during the test. 

Now I did a voltage drop test and when I crank the engine over it drops down to 9 volts...now i'm finally on to something. It's possible that it's due to engine drag but I'm not to sure as of yet...any ideas while I continue working on this?


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