# Changed my Frontier Brakes, Rotors, Wheel Bearings and Races - Pics and step by step



## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Here's a little page I did with the step by step I used for doing this repair and pics. Have only taken two small drives so far but they feel good. If I go off a cliff or something then don't follow my instructions.

These are for information only and I take no responsibility for accuracy etc.

Thanks to all the Forum members who gave me advice and instructions.

Nissan Rotor and Brake Replacement


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

hawaiibrew said:


> Here's a little page I did with the step by step I used for doing this repair and pics. Have only taken two small drives so far but they feel good. If I go off a cliff or something then don't follow my instructions.
> 
> These are for information only and I take no responsibility for accuracy etc.
> 
> ...


Good Job and very nice write-up :thumbup:


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## Snafu (Dec 17, 2005)

hawaiibrew said:


> If I go off a cliff or something then don't follow my instructions.


Now how are we going to find this out  

Good stuff mate. Thanks for writing this up and posting :thumbup: 

Aloha


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## Q-Tip (Sep 10, 2005)

Most excellent pictures and write-up. :thumbup: This is a repair I have always shied away from in the past but in the future I'll probably try to tackle it myself.

Thanks!

-


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

Good job Man. You mentioned in your initial post about this that you enjoyed the learning experience and probably saved $$$. Well, learning is what it's all about and enjoying it is great.

As for the $$$, I can bet you saved quite a bit - - if your local shops (and dealers) charge normal shop rates. What I like to do is call a shop to see how much they would charge to do a particular repair that I intend to do myself. Knowing what the parts will cost you, you now know how much labour $$$ you saved - - it's usually substantial. This money you saved can be used to purchase more tools that will help with furture repairs - - that's how my collection got to be where it is today.

Now, having said this, you obviously have to enjoy doing this sort of thing, since your time is also worth $$$ right? But for me, it's relaxing to get my hands greasy after a day (or week) in the office, and even when things go wrong (which they do  ), I get a *HUGE * sense of accomplishment knowing I did it myself.

It also helps to have an understanding wife when it comes to purchasing more tools. Fortunately, I have one, and she understands the huge amount of $$$ I've saved us fixing our vehicles over the last 16 years. She's a keeper... :thumbup: 

Again, great job and thanks for sharing.


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## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Two weeks and everything seems good - brakes work excellent, very smooth braking. Wheels are gliding along.

Now I gotta do the same repair on the Chevy Cavalier


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

hawaiibrew said:


> Two weeks and everything seems good - brakes work excellent, very smooth braking. Wheels are gliding along.
> 
> Now I gotta do the same repair on the Chevy Cavalier


Excellent - - - thanks for the update. Sounds great.

Have fun with the Cavalier repairs.


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## Danmuzicman (Mar 15, 2006)

aw man the page isnt found and i am about to do my brakes? still got it somewhere?


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## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Sorry man - I took it down for some website repairs I'll repost it tonight and post the new link here for you tomorrow!


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## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Okay - had to move the site to a new location - this should now work for you. Hope the instructions are helpful!

REPLACING ROTORS AND PADS PICS AND STEPS


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## Danmuzicman (Mar 15, 2006)

awsome thank you so much, looks like alot of work but a friend and i can knock out the two rotors in a day. i plan to change out the rotors for slotted vented one, with some good pads, i do alot of stop and go driving.


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## bwweston (May 12, 2006)

I am assuming people have tried this for their 4WD 2000 Frontier model as well?


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## bwweston (May 12, 2006)

Just curious...has anybody tried this process on the 4WD frontier or xterra? Sometimes, when you need to do a 4WD brake job, it requires some press fitting with a hydraulic press.


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## dlj189 (May 15, 2006)

*Front wheels frequently soiled more than rear wheels*

As I view the pics at the start of this job I notice that the wheels are quite dirty. My own front wheels (00 Frontier V6 3.3L) are frequently dirty looking when compared to the rear wheels. I cannot recall if its always been this way or if this is a new thing. It kind of seems like a condition that has become apparant over the past year. This truck is not my primary vehicle so subtle signs of wear and malfunction frequently go unnoticed by me until I have opportunity to spend some time with the truck. I've had a week with it now as I contemplate a major repair and some 100k maintenance so I'm starting to notice oddities this week.

Do you think this soil difference between the front and rear wheels an indicator of worn parts in the front brake system that might need some attention soon? If anybody reading this has read my other post you can plainly see I need another thing to fix on my list right now like I need a hole in the head, but might as well pile it on and get it all out of the way if that's what this means. Thanks, Dee


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

Totally normal, the front does most of the braking so the difference is not something to worry about. Then again I have not seen how much you are talking about, but in general nothing to worry about.


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## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Actually - I noticed the same thing - that as my brakes got bad - my front wheels had more and more dust and dirt on them.

After I replaced the rotors, disc brakes, etc....... they stayed remarkably CLEAN!

So I think that YES excessive or consistent dust and grime on your wheels that appears quickly after every cleaning may be a sign that you need to have brakes or rotors replaced.

Only way to tell is to take the wheel off - which is pretty easy.


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## Q-Tip (Sep 10, 2005)

The black dust on the front wheels is usually the dust generated by the friction material on the brake pads. Different pad friction compounds generate different quantities of dust.

Generally, softer pads = more dust = quicker stops = shorter life, harder pads = less dust = longer stops = longer life. Race cars use super soft pads that don't last any time at all but they will STOP. (They give off LOTS of dust too) Street vehicles use a harder compound that lasts longer but doesn't grab as well.


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## Bolt (Aug 23, 2007)

Hi Hawaiibrew, 

Could you repost your link? I'm not able to get into the one on your message.

Thanks, 

Bolt


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## hawaiibrew (Sep 14, 2005)

Okay - hey guys - sorry the page was down for a long time I moved from Hawaii to WA!

HERE IS THE UPDATED PAGE AGAIN! If anyone ever needs the info again or the page goes down again - email me a [email protected]


HOW TO DO THE BRAKES AND ROTORS NISSAN FRONTIER CREW CAB 2000 2WD


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## ChuckFrontier06 (Jul 25, 2006)

_*Did you clean the slides and apply caliper grease to them and the pins? I would recommend opening the bleeder vale and attaching a clear hose to it when bottoming the piston. That way dirty brake fluid won't go back into the master sylinder. You should also replace the brake fluid if you are doing a brake job. It will allow your brake system to last longer by removing old brake fluid that has retained mositure over a period of time.*_


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## 02 4X4 (Jun 4, 2005)

*How bout 4X4*

I need 2 have my rotirs turned but since my truck is 4 wheel drive I am not sure how to remove the rotors


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