# Help with 79 280zx



## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Just bought 1979 280zx for 200 bucks. It runs but has one main problem. The battery has to be disconnected when its not running or it will drain. So every time for start up I have to connect it, run to the driver seat and start up. The guy I bought it from suggested it was ignition related. There is a big half off sell at my local junkyard this weekend and I could pick up the parts I need to fix this problem any suggestions guys? Its automatic if that helps any. Any other parts that would be good to swap in while im at it at the yard?


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

or could there be a bad fuse or drain some where else.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Im digging thru the engine today to see if I can find anything. Replacing old hoses and what not. Any suggestions on my battery drain would be nice.


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

nizmo559 said:


> Im digging thru the engine today to see if I can find anything. Replacing old hoses and what not. Any suggestions on my battery drain would be nice.


It could be that your on/off wire to the radio is hook up to the battery not the ignition?


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Spongerider said:


> It could be that your on/off wire to the radio is hook up to the battery not the ignition?


Interesting idea, i'll see if I can find that wire im not to into car electronics but i'll try to see if thats the case. Thanks


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

nizmo559 said:


> Interesting idea, i'll see if I can find that wire im not to into car electronics but i'll try to see if thats the case. Thanks


Okay I checked around tested some wires/fuses/ and connections.

I couldnt figure out which wire is the on off radio wire but I was also thinking it could be the Clock, Dome Light or other switch.

Fuses I found that diddnt work were the Defogger, Meter Gauge, and Calibrater. Do I need these?


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

Its probably your alternator. Go have it checked out. I think the diodes or something can stick on them and cause the batt to drain. I had this problem once. There is a little light by the voltmeter that will light up if the alt is not charging right, even though it may be pumping out 12+ volts. Other than that, it could be an acessory that was wired up wrong. Is there any aftermarket junk on the car? If it is draining it fast, I would guess it is the alternator though.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Yea I was looking at the Alternator it looks a little old could be that. It just looks like a bitch to get to. As far as aftermarket stuff im not sure there wasnt a radio when I installed, and im not sure if there was ever a alarm, I dont think there ever was. About that volt meter thing I diddnt even notice a light was there i'll double check that tomorrow im burned out tonight. Be back tomorrow.


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

Getting the alternator out is not that bad. you just need to take the power steering pump off (if you have power steering). You can take it off and lay it to the side and keep its hoses hooked up. This should allow just enough room to get the alternator out once you get the 3 bolts or so off that hold it onto the car. A new one is about 60-80 bucks and will only last about 5 years max. Rebuilt alternators totally suck, but that is pretty much all you can get.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Pulled the alt. and it looks ugly as hell. Im sure its a done deal but im gonna take it to kragens see what they say.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

okay installing the new alternator i discover a plug that wasnt used that fit perfect in the alternator spot. the wires previously used i have no idea where they are supposed to go, or if im even supposed to use them any ideas how to wire the alternator to stock specs so i dont burn it out


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

A Haynes manual should have all the schmatics for the car. It should be in there if you have one.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

nah Haynes is long gone. I just bought it off of some guy down the street from me. Well I think I know whats wrong with it now. The alternator is plugged together wrong for one. Secondly the key doesnt go in the off postition. So to stop the car I have to turn it all the way to the right to make it freeze up which I know isnt good for the car im sure. So any ideas why the key wouldnt be able to move postions. I took apart the column and diddnt see anything phsically wrong. Im gonna hit up the yard again tomorrow it was closed today by the time I got there.


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

Ok man, the alt hooks up pretty simple. There is a plug, it is a t type plug (two spade plugs arranged in a "T". The wires in the plug will be blue and white. There are two other white wires. One attaches to one of the studs on the alternator. It should be a big white one. The stud it will connect to is the only insulted stud (cause this is the positive connection from the batt (through the fusible links). Ok then there should be a smaller white wire that plugs into a condensor via a bullet connector. Finally there will be a sizeable black wire than can be put on any of the remaining studs as a ground. Being 25 yrs old, your car could have jacked up wiring, but you should be able to figure it out. good luck.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Cool its all wired up now. You know it was the stupid ignition, it wouldnt turn to the off postition. I bought it like that and, so I wasnt sure how exactly it was supposed to go. I had to open up the column and then take apart the ignition where the key goes. broke it a lil bit but it still works properly. Alternator is in figured I'd replace it anyways the old one was all oily and old looking. Maybe i'll post some pics of my new Z sometime this week. Ima start looking for a 280zxt engine and transmission. Das do you know the going rate on them?


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

Yeah, you should post some pics! A non-turbo engine should be pretty cheap. What I would do is get an engine out of an 81-83 car (it had a better head design, and block). Then I would go through that engine and re-build it as much as needed (oftentimes the bottem end doesn't need a rebuild). Then I would swap that into the car. This way the down-time of your car isn't as long. For lots more info, you need to visit zcar.com as that is the best forum out there for z's.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Okay I have been reading around site to site and have desided im going with a SBC 350. I dont know what year yet but most likely 79 or newer for smog issues. Seems like the best bang for the buck. I would like to go turbo but for the power and upgrade and reliablity the V8 just seems like a better deal. 300hp is no problem with a Chevy sbc. I already have a r200 rear end so this combo along with a 5 speed (t-5) should work nicely. Maybe even get my drift on a lil bit. Still collecting info nothing set in stone yet what ya think?


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

Well, sure lots of power can be made with a small block chevy. Alot of guys have done it. I have no experience with it though. Have you thought of an rb25det swap? Those motors can be had at a decent price. The swap is kind of involved. Not too many people have done an rb swap into the zx. Something to think about


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Yea I have thought about it. A little to involved for me. If I had the time and money I definately would have an RB as my first choice. SBC looks like the easiest for the power im looking for. Im working on just getting it to pass smog right now. Stupid EGR valve was non existent. I went to the yard and every 280zx out there had a egr that was impossible to pull off. So I orderd a new one at nissan $30, diddnt fit of course, they are ordering another version hopefully this will be the right one. I have read about plugging up the egr maybe i'll do that next.


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## morepower2 (Apr 19, 2002)

nizmo559 said:


> Just bought 1979 280zx for 200 bucks. It runs but has one main problem. The battery has to be disconnected when its not running or it will drain. So every time for start up I have to connect it, run to the driver seat and start up. The guy I bought it from suggested it was ignition related. There is a big half off sell at my local junkyard this weekend and I could pick up the parts I need to fix this problem any suggestions guys? Its automatic if that helps any. Any other parts that would be good to swap in while im at it at the yard?


Put a multimeter between the battery positve and the postive lead when its on mulivolts and measure the drain, then pull your fuses on at a time until the drain stops, thats the cuircit where there is a problem.

Mike


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

morepower2 said:


> Put a multimeter between the battery positve and the postive lead when its on mulivolts and measure the drain, then pull your fuses on at a time until the drain stops, thats the cuircit where there is a problem.
> 
> Mike


That won't work if the problem is in the ignition harness itself. If too many accessories , such as a high powered stereo , were powered off the ignition itself , there may be some fused (melted together) wires in there. One very simple way to test that is to leave the car off for a few hours , and feel around the ignition switch area. If it's warm , bingo.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Thanks for all the replies guys. Im looking to plug or replace the egr tube holes now. My dying out problem hasnt been fixed yet but once I get the car running and smogged i'll take it in for diagnostics. So many things to look for.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

nizmo559 said:


> Thanks for all the replies guys. Im looking to plug or replace the egr tube holes now. My dying out problem hasnt been fixed yet but once I get the car running and smogged i'll take it in for diagnostics. So many things to look for.


haha okay a couple months later. Ordered BSPT plug for egr hole on the manifold. If anybody needs to plug thier egr let me know I could hook ya up with the link. The plug came in I put some high temp thread sealer and it plugged perfectly. The car had been sitting at my moms for a couple months not started at all. I put the key and and it roared right up. I was really happy what a good engine. I just need a new battery and then registration should be underway really soon. The brakes had no fluid so I'm guessing it just drained or dried up I dunno I diddnt see any leaks. So yea driving around the block was pretty scary with just the ebrake. But all in all im happy with the car hopefully I could get the v8 350 van engine in soon.


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## Marc Z31 (Jul 25, 2004)

that Small block will throw a lot of weight into the front of the car. The same amount of power, If not more, can be had out of a turbo L28. Expect understeer, weird chevy problems, and 8 mpg with that V8. Keep it nissan. I've built both, and I prefer the nissan engines. Believe it or not, the bottom end of the L28 is stronger than the small block.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Marc Z31 said:


> that Small block will throw a lot of weight into the front of the car. The same amount of power, If not more, can be had out of a turbo L28. Expect understeer, weird chevy problems, and 8 mpg with that V8. Keep it nissan. I've built both, and I prefer the nissan engines. Believe it or not, the bottom end of the L28 is stronger than the small block.


Yea I see what your saying man. I been looking around for one in good condition. They arent easy to find. How did you go about getting your L28t. Did you just part one together or get lucky and find one fully in tact somewhere. Right now I have a automatic so I need to get the tranny and engine and other misc parts. I hear the L28 is a killer for a drift set up too which one be fun to dabble in.


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## Marc Z31 (Jul 25, 2004)

well, I don't have an L28T, I have a VG30ET. you can find one at a junkyard.
If I were you, I would just find one NA or turbo in running condition. Rebuild it with good parts (aftermarket pistons, stock rods, and a L28D crankshaft) The L28D is the diesel maxima engine, and it will stroke the engine to a 3.1L
Aftermarket pistons will permit a healthy shot of nitrous, and whatever compression you want. Get some heads ported, especially on the exhaust side, and get a good cam (nothing too radical, and it has to be a turbocharger cam). You will easily make 400+ at the wheels, unless you use the nitrous, then you can have a lot more.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

Marc Z31 said:


> well, I don't have an L28T, I have a VG30ET. you can find one at a junkyard.
> If I were you, I would just find one NA or turbo in running condition. Rebuild it with good parts (aftermarket pistons, stock rods, and a L28D crankshaft) The L28D is the diesel maxima engine, and it will stroke the engine to a 3.1L
> Aftermarket pistons will permit a healthy shot of nitrous, and whatever compression you want. Get some heads ported, especially on the exhaust side, and get a good cam (nothing too radical, and it has to be a turbocharger cam). You will easily make 400+ at the wheels, unless you use the nitrous, then you can have a lot more.



Damn that would be awsome. I need to get my mechanic skills up a little more before I could attempt that or get some more money in my pocked to pay somebody to do that. So how much trouble was it to get the vg in there? I havent heard of anybody doing that on any websites. They put out close to 200hp stock dont they?


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## das280zx (Jul 17, 2003)

he's talking about the l28, i think. just build up an l28, turbo or non-turbo


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

I'm going turbo or v8 I guess what ever I have the first opportunity for.


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