# Problem with the brakes!!



## darkfms2000 (Feb 18, 2005)

Guys, my brakes are very hard when you are pressing on the padel + that they dont response quickly.

some of my friends told me it might be a master cylinder problem and if so please advice me on how to check it.

by the way I did the followings:

1- Polished the rotors in a workshop.
2- Fixed new brake pads.
3- Installed a new cliper kit 2 months ago.
4- Investegated for leakage ( no leak, but something makes me courisis that when I press the brakes so hard it will smell like brake oil and the front wheels starts caring a lot of fractions and carbon)

I want your help.


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## ReVerm (Jan 13, 2003)

darkfms2000 said:


> 1- Polished the rotors in a workshop.


Wait wait. Did you resurface or actually _polish _ your rotors?


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## CHRIS/SR/SE (Dec 15, 2003)

No... You didn't polish the rotors... If you did get them resurfaced or buy new ones, that could be VERY dangerous... Polished?


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## darkfms2000 (Feb 18, 2005)

sorry bro but I mean (resurfaced)


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## MShorten (Jul 19, 2004)

darkfms2000 said:


> Guys, my brakes are very hard when you are pressing on the padel + that they dont response quickly.
> 
> by the way I did the followings:
> 
> ...


You didn't mention it, but did you bleed your brakes?

Regards,
Michael


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

> 2- Fixed new brake pads


-what do you meen you "FIXED" the pads?
-yes you need to bleed your brakes 100%

what type of car do you have? b14/b13? did you de the ad22vf?


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## Chris90FB240sx (Feb 25, 2005)

It could also be the Calipers... If you installed bigger set or bigger rotars you may need a booster for the Master Cylinder... Serveral things I guess it could be.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

Chris90FB240sx said:


> It could also be the Calipers... If you installed bigger set or bigger rotars you may need a booster for the Master Cylinder... Serveral things I guess it could be.


thats why i want to know what "caliper kit" he got. if he put the NX2000 calipers on and used the stock sentra rotors or the NX2000 non ABS rotors then that is the problem.
these are NX2000 rotors. 
these are the nx2000 calipers, if you have these (pay no mind to the red paint) you should have the above rotors. 

both the calipers and the rotors should weigh about 40-45 pounds if put in a box.


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## ReVerm (Jan 13, 2003)

1.6pete said:


> thats why i want to know what "caliper kit" he got. if he put the NX2000 calipers on and used the stock sentra rotors or the NX2000 non ABS rotors then that is the problem.
> these are NX2000 rotors.
> these are the nx2000 calipers, if you have these (pay no mind to the red paint) you should have the above rotors.


That would cause the pedal travel to go long and mushy, rather than hard and unresponsive (because the caliper piston would have to travel a greater distance to get to the rotors).

What kind of brake pads are installed on this car? You didn't by any chance sand the brake pads down, did you? : P


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

well he was quit vague with his discription and didnt say anything of long pedal travle, short, mushy, tight.......nothing, so i was pointing out the most obvious problem when installing "a caliper kit" <that led me to believe he did the nx2000 calipers and didnt use the nx rotors. :cheers:


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

1.6pete said:


> well he was quit vague with his discription and didnt say anything of long pedal travle, short, mushy, tight.......nothing, so i was pointing out the most obvious problem when installing "a caliper kit" <that led me to believe he did the nx2000 calipers and didnt use the nx rotors. :cheers:


He said the pedal was tight (hard)


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

hmm, missed that, i stand corrected


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## kiddsr20de (Jun 23, 2004)

darkfms2000 said:


> Guys, my brakes are very hard when you are pressing on the padel + that they dont response quickly.
> 
> Most, if not all, modern vehicles use a brake booster sometimes called a "master vac" which utilizes vacuum assistance to increase the pressure placed on the rotors by the pads. If there is a vacuum leak the booster can not work at full potential making it necessary to exert more physical pressure on the brake pedal in order to get a response from the braking system. This is just one possibility. In any case, your brakes are "your life" and should be in good working order. If you can't figure it out on your own, please have a professional fix it for you. Don't take a chance.


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## darkfms2000 (Feb 18, 2005)

guys, my car have a power brake and the brake master vaccum 
the problem is I did the bleeding and surfaced the rotors and installed a duplicated brake pads for the company Akeno. the car have the same problem actually the car is getting worse, now when I press the brakes it takes a side. B14


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## ReVerm (Jan 13, 2003)

darkfms2000 said:


> guys, my car have a power brake and the brake master vaccum
> the problem is I did the bleeding and surfaced the rotors and installed a duplicated brake pads for the company Akeno. the car have the same problem actually the car is getting worse, now when I press the brakes it takes a side. B14


Sounds like a broken MC or faulty brake booster all right. Second kiddsr20de's position.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Sounds like the brake booster or the attaced vacuum lines. Make sure the lines aren't leaking or pinched. If not, you prolly need a new brake booster.

I really doubt it's the MC, doesn't sound like a MC problem. There's no leaks either, that would cause the brake petal to feel soft or mushy, you'd also get a brakelight due to fluid loss.

Resurfacing rotors is only necessary when the surface of the rotor is inconsistant or rusted beyond normal surface rust.

Technically, there's really no reason to get new rotors unless you're upgrading or just lazy. If you have a bad boot or a leaky seal, you can always replace just the seal.


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## ReVerm (Jan 13, 2003)

Ninety-Nine SE-L said:


> I really doubt it's the MC, doesn't sound like a MC problem.


Sticky MC piston or a deformed MC piston wall will cause the piston to get stuck and cause a similar effect as well. This is a lot rarer than the brake booster situation, but it does happen.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

ReVerm said:


> Sounds like a broken MC or faulty brake booster all right. Second kiddsr20de's position.


I agree this is probably a faulty vaccum boster. 
Get it replaced now as you will not be able to apply enough force to brake quickly. While you are there replace the master cylinder too. This should fix the problem.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

try raising your idle and see if it helps. As a matter of fact, I just had to raise mine today. My idle was too low and the booster wasn't getting enough vacuum.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Ninety-Nine SE-L said:


> try raising your idle and see if it helps. As a matter of fact, I just had to raise mine today. My idle was too low and the booster wasn't getting enough vacuum.


????
Maybe at idle but when driving shuting the throttle at speed will generate lots of vaccum. Do you have a leak ??


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## Mekanik22 (Mar 14, 2005)

Before you run out an spend money on a brake booster, here are 3 tests to perform to confirm if it IS the brake booster.

1: With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any vaccum currently in the booster.
2: Start the engine while HOLDING the brake pedal with a MODERATE force. The pedal should fall away from your foot. If it doesn't, there is a vaccum leak. Check the vaccum check valve (you should be able to blow on it one way, but not the other) on the firewall. Check the vaccum lines from the booster to the intake manifold for cuts, holes, anything. Especially check that plastic T piece. Those love to get brittle and snap. Also a plugged air filter would cause this too.

TEST2
This test will ensure your booster is holding pressure in both halves.
1:Run the engine for 2 minutes then shut engine off
2:Wait another 2 minutes
3ump the pedal 2-3 times. There should be assist for 2-3 pedal pushes. If not, there is no assist and there is a leak somewhere. Check vaccum, check valve first, then replace the booster.

TEST3
This test will ensure no internal booster leaks
1:While engine is running, depress the brake pedal with MODERATE force. If you hear any hissing sounds or engine RPM change, the diaphragm in the booster is no good so you require a new one.

Perform these 3 drive way tests in that order before you go and spend money on a booster. They can be costly and there are a few things you have to take into consideration when replacing one (If doing it yourself)


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