# Rear Wiper issues



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Figured I would post a question for once. 

In the past week or so with with temps close to -20 celcius, my rear wiper has become very slow and hesitant. Having done a little research into the problem its cause seems to be related to dried 9 year old grease, and most likely some corrosion of the spindle mechanism that turns the wiper arm. Means I have to take off the wiper arm and then the rear wiper motor assembly, which I will have to open up and dismantle a fair bit to get at the spindle. Either that, or buy a whole new rear wiper motor assembly for $477 at the dealer, which obviously I do not want to do. I am curious if anybody has done this and would have some tips.

I found this thread about one on a 02 Pathfinder that should be pretty similar
2002 Rear Wiper Seized - How To Repair (w/pics) - 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders - NPORA Forums

and this video for a Murano
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZXp6C2XRQk

In the meanwhile I am trying a bit of penetrating oil, but I will have to wait for a bit warmer weather before trying to fix it.:laugh:


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Decided to tackle the job yesterday evening, as my rear wiper seized yesterday morning. Happy to report rear wiper is working as good as new. I had forgotten how fast it could work. Well worth a couple of hours of work, and having done it I am sure it could be done in less time.
Its quite similar to the repair done in the Murano I linked to above. 

The issue was the pivot shaft binding in the armature housing due to corrosion and fine grit working its way in. Solution is to pull the wiper motor assembly out after having the removed the wiper arm. Once out, you need to remove the four small screws of the cover/bracket plate. Once the inside is exposed, you need to remove the rectangular plate that sits on top of the winding wheel and connects it to the wiper spindle arm. Observe the position of everything, then remove the wheel with its bottom spring washer. The spindle shaft has a metal plate at the base (again with a spring washer) with a hole that the previously mentioned rectangular piece goes into. 
You then need to flip the thing over, spray the end that your wiper arm connects to with power blaster or whatever to clean it a bit. This will allow you to see the C clip and remove it, as well as the washer it holds in place ( you can see this in the Murano video). With these removed you will want to support the armature, and install a 12mm bolt on the end, get a hammer, and tap that spindle arm out. Once out you will need to remove crud and the small rubber O ring that sits in top ring of armature. I used very fine grit oiled sandpaper and metal file to remove the rust and pitting as best I could, then finished with metal polish. Gave the shaft a coat of white lithium grease, as well as adding some to other insides parts. Reassembled everything. Reinstalled the motor assembly, reattached the wiper arm, and voila a once again perfectly functioning rear wiper just in time for today's freezing rain! 
Hope this helps others, as I note nothing had been written about such a fix for the X trail. Getting this done at the dealer would have had them replace the entire wiper motor assembly ( Nissan part number 28710-8H300) at a total cost including tax of well over $600. The part alone would have been over 500 with tax included. Happy to report my cost was nothing, as I already had the grease and the powerblaster spray. The metal polish I used was Brasso which we had around the house.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R05H705U6dY

Just found this video on Youtube regarding the rear wiper repair for a Saturn View. This is almost identical to the rear wiper motor in the T30 X trail. Only difference is instead of the two circular metal gears ( one of which is at the base of the turning spindle), ours has just the spindle with a metal foot at its base and into which that top plate with pins on either end fits into. Its really clear in this video. Otherwise the set up is identical on the inside, and even the backing/mounting plate is identical in terms of the screws you have to undo to open it up.
Moreover, undoing the back door panel on the inside on ours is way easier than all of the dismantling required for the Saturn. All you need to do is pop the little hook (top left of the panel) center cap up and pull it out, and then with a flat blade screwdriver whose end you will cover in electrical tape to protect your paint, just work around the outside and pop out the hidden tabs that go around the rear trim panel circumference, and then tug it off. To put it back just line up the tabs with the holes and use your hand to go around the edge to push the panel in. Takes only a couple of minutes to expose the inside of your back hatch.

I have no idea why Nissan charges $477 Cdn for this wiper motor assembly, when you can get a replacement for the View for under 150, but that is par for the course of owning an X Trail in Canada. Funny thing I noticed two X Trails in Ottawa whose back wiper was stuck in the up position, so I know this can help people. Heck, I will happily do the repair for anybody in this area for the price of one for a Saturn View lol.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Mine works but rarely stops at the bottom, usually in the up or mid-way position...I can't see dismantling the whole thing!! Maybe if it decides to stop working, which with my luck, is bound to happen at some point!


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Probably much sooner than you expect, during your next cold spell. Anyhow, I have explained the easy solution...


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

Out of curiosity, I did this last night. It was easy and only took 45 minutes. The hard part was getting the small retaining clip off of the pivot shaft. My wiper motor was fine. There was no rust or corrosion on the shaft, just a bit of dirt on the o-ring. I added some fresh grease to the pivot shaft and reassembled. 

About a year ago, my rear wiper would stop in odd positions. When I would turn the ignition off and on the wiper would return to normal. I ended up replacing the driver side wire-harness in the rear hatch. I think there were some cracked wires causing issues with power to the wiper. The rear wiper has been working great ever since I replaced the rear harness.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Chadn
Good to hear from you. Glad you were able to tear into yours so quickly. I never had the issue with it stopping in odd positions. Only that it would operate quite slowly and had been getting worse over time. I could tell when it stopped while attempting a down sweep it was because of resistance of some type. When I had mine open I tried to move the base of the pivot arm, and there was no way it was moving with just my fingers pushing. I actually wedged in the blunt end of ratchet head screwdriver and had to tap quite hard with a hammer to get it to move. That clip was the hardest part. Must be a special tool for those, but with two picks I was able to get it off. Had to clean off fair bit of crud and rust to even see it and the washer underneath. Was surprised the O ring was intact and in good shape. Guess it took me so long because I had to take a bit more time to figure it out and then to remove corrosion and do some polishing lol.
Anyway thanks for the heads up about the wiring harness. Had read about it in an early thread, but it seemed like a one of so I figured it was pretty unlikely. Would have thought that would cause a short, rather than intermittent stopping in odd places. Hope all is well. Take care.


----------



## Andrei9000 (Jul 24, 2016)

Myne was sluggish the past week, I gave it some penetrating oil , worked till yesterday and I changed it today.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Just so people know my rear wiper has worked fine ever since. New issue though. Enthusiastic scraping yesterday with our ice storm saw my rear wiper nozzle decapitated. Stopped by the dealer this morn and a replacement is $48. More than I would like to spend but I cannot find one elsewhere. I can find listings in Russia and UAE for 10 to 14 US but with shipping and delays its not worth it.
Sadly its not the same part as to be found on either Pathfinders or XTerras. Will confirm the part number tomorrow, but I think its 28970 8H300. Its having to be shipped from Montreal.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well it pays to call another dealer. Hunt Club Nissan had one in stock and their price was $25 + hst. The updated part number is B8970-4M400. Picked it up and am about to install it.


----------



## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

quadraria10 said:


> Well it pays to call another dealer. Hunt Club Nissan had one in stock and their price was $25 + hst. The updated part number is B8970-4M400. Picked it up and am about to install it.


Don't wait too long, a nice cold weekend is coming up.

The second speed on my xtrail blower is out, so i ve put some music on and a coffee inside the exxy and transistor repair was done.
It s only temporary but i will shop for a new one.
Glad to have the garage to work in.

envoyé du throne en grimaçant kclmop


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the encouragement Otomodo. Did it 5 minutes after posting. Even wiped down both sides of the hole in the glass with rubbing alcohol prior to assembling it. Works fine anew. There is actually a valve in these that allows flow to go only in one direction. Just glad I didn't bust the rear glass. Must have come off yesterday with all the ice I took off the roof and rear. Quite the weather the past few weeks. Drove back from mtl on boxing day and that was a treat with freezing rain the whole way back. 
Good luck with your repair and of course-- Bonne Année.


----------



## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

I ve treated myself on new years eve by going to Val des monts at the worst of the snowstorm.

Bonne année à tous

envoyé du throne en grimaçant kclmop


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

That would have been fun... It was a ridiculous snow storm. Only had to drive to a party in Ottawa. Did your gas tank float level repair work?


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

I can't remember if I mentioned this before, but awhile back I was getting no washer fluid coming out the rear squirty thing and my guy found the hose had come off by the pump and was squirting on the ground, so he fixed it. But I did not try it for quite awhile as I assumed it was fine, and when I finally did, hardly anything came out, just a sad little dribble. I forgot to mention it last time I was in there but now it takes repeated attempts with the lever to get even a few drops out of there... Any ideas? Could it be plugged somewhere?


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly
Best wishes for the new year . I have no idea if yours is clogged. Easiest thing would be to stick a straight pin in the little nozzle hole and push it a bit up and down. See if that works.


----------



## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

quadraria10 said:


> That would have been fun... It was a ridiculous snow storm. Only had to drive to a party in Ottawa. Did your gas tank float level repair work?


My tank float lol.

I ran out of gas 3 meters before reaching the pump.
The gauge was stuck at the final quarter and going to the pharmacy, i had a warning in my driveway.
The xtrail didn't start at first crank or second, a third try was needed. I ran towards the gas station and at the last traffic lights(lucky me )it was rolling on fumes to die 3 meters before the pump.
I tried to push it but it was a bit uphill and it won't climb. I was putting it on park and heard a deep voice "hey man, need a push".

Glad to ear that.


As for the nozzle, i would blow some air into it(unplug the hose inside before).

envoyé du throne en grimaçant kclmop


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

She will need compressed air to do that. 
That is a drag about the fuel level sensor, but I am sure you will sort it out. Gotta like helpful souls willing to provide a needed push!


----------



## paulkurucz (Aug 12, 2018)

*Rear wiper stops in odd position - re-ignition required*



chadn said:


> ...About a year ago, my rear wiper would stop in odd positions. When I would turn the ignition off and on the wiper would return to normal. I ended up replacing the driver side wire-harness in the rear hatch. I think there were some cracked wires causing issues with power to the wiper. The rear wiper has been working great ever since I replaced the rear harness.


This sounds like what is happening to mine: The rear wiper turns on, moves rapidly and smoothly, and then stops mid-window typically on the first return wipe. Only when the ignition is turned off does it return to resting position. Sometimes it locks again on the way down and a multiple key turning is required to get the wiper all the way back down. 
@chadn or anyone: Can you detail what you did to replace the "driver side wire-harness in the rear hatch"? Or suggest other possible fixes?

Thanks!


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

paulkurucz said:


> This sounds like what is happening to mine: The rear wiper turns on, moves rapidly and smoothly, and then stops mid-window typically on the first return wipe. Only when the ignition is turned off does it return to resting position. Sometimes it locks again on the way down and a multiple key turning is required to get the wiper all the way back down.
> 
> @chadn or anyone: Can you detail what you did to replace the "driver side wire-harness in the rear hatch"? Or suggest other possible fixes?
> 
> Thanks!


There could be two possible causes: (1) broken or almost broken wires in the driver side wire harness or (2) seized up rear wiper motor. Both are pretty easy fixes. 

For the wire harness, you can either buy a new harness from Nissan or try and repair the old one. I would just replace it with a new harness. I think I paid about $130 for the new harness and it took me about half an hour to install. To install it, you need to remove the cover from the rear door and the upper trim panel in the back storage area of the x-trail. There is one connector in the rear storage area and then 3 or 4 connectors in the rear door. The only hard one is the connector for the rear brake light. That one was a pain. 

For the rear motor, water slowly makes it way into the bushing that the arm pivots on. As it corrodes, it slowly starts seizing. It's pretty easy to open up the rear motor, clean up the bushing surfaces and put fresh grease there. Saves having to buy a $400 wiper motor. You need to remove the wiper are first, then you can remove the motor from the rear door, then there is a little circlip you need to remove (be careful not to break or bend it too bad), then the motor arm should come right out.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well if you are looking to replace the wire harness and can wait a bit for delivery, I saw this which is the right part for the backdoor wire harness.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/240518h300.

Mine too has stopped in weird positions at times, but just turning off the rear wiper switch and turning it on again has always reset it. That is other than when it was all seized up the way Chadn just described. But prior to that the wiper slowed noticeably.
Good luck with it.


----------



## paulkurucz (Aug 12, 2018)

*Re: Rear wiper stops in odd position*



chadn said:


> There could be two possible causes: (1) broken or almost broken wires in the driver side wire harness or (2) seized up rear wiper motor. Both are pretty easy fixes.
> 
> For the wire harness, you can either buy a new harness from Nissan or try and repair the old one. I would just replace it with a new harness. I think I paid about $130 for the new harness and it took me about half an hour to install. To install it, you need to remove the cover from the rear door and the upper trim panel in the back storage area of the x-trail. There is one connector in the rear storage area and then 3 or 4 connectors in the rear door. The only hard one is the connector for the rear brake light. That one was a pain.
> 
> For the rear motor, water slowly makes it way into the bushing that the arm pivots on. As it corrodes, it slowly starts seizing. It's pretty easy to open up the rear motor, clean up the bushing surfaces and put fresh grease there. Saves having to buy a $400 wiper motor. You need to remove the wiper are first, then you can remove the motor from the rear door, then there is a little circlip you need to remove (be careful not to break or bend it too bad), then the motor arm should come right out.


 @chadn and @quadraria10 - you are both awesomely supportive! Thank you for sharing your experiences! I will dive into this and get 'er fixed based on your great feedback and suggestions.


----------



## paulkurucz (Aug 12, 2018)

*Re: Rear wiper stops in odd position*

I would just like to note that the solutions for lubricating the pivot shaft mechanism that both @quadraria10 and @chadn suggest and detail earlier worked for my X-Trail. I live on the "wet coast" and though I had no rust as we don't have winter as the rest of Canada has, the shaft and arm had dried out - the surfaces were binding up as there was not enough lubricant between them. So mine locked up intermittently. 

If you are newer at digging into repairs such as this, the job may seem daunting, but it is really a 1 hour job and with care, you can do it yourself. I will add a few smaller suggestions to the great instructions detailed earlier that may help folks newer to repairs:

1. Remove the back hatch plastic panel on the inside of the rear hatch door. There is a 2" round plastic hole cover and a smaller plastic cover with a loop to be removed first. Pry them off gently with a small screwdriver. Then gently slide a flat screwdriver or other thin metal object between the panel and metal part of the door at one spot. Don't be afraid of breaking anything, but still, be gentle but firm until you get one of the plastic connectors to pop out. Work your way around the panel until you have popped them all out. There are two more in the middle as well. Reach in a carefully to each and push the panel out at those points to pop the centre plastic connectors off. You should now have the panel off. 

2. Outside: Make sure the wiper is in the horizontal, "off" position. On the rear washer arm on the outside, pop the small round plastic cover off the arm at the base of the arm with a flat screwdriver. You will see a bolt there. Use a ratchet or adjustable wrench to get it off. If rusted, corroded, or dirty, be careful as you don't want to damage the bolt, arm or mechanism with too much force. But it must come off. Once the bolt is off, gently but firmly wiggle and pull the wiper arm straight off the spindle the bolt was connected to. You might need to carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or other lever put against the door itself if it doesn't come straight off with some wiggling and pulling. Do so carefully and as near the base of the arm as possible so that the force is pushing as straight out as possible. Be ready for it to come off suddenly. 

3. Follow the great instructions noted earlier. 

A couple of add-on comments to those instructions: 

I. The tiny little circlip (snap ring) at the base of the outside part of the arm, before it enters the larger mechanism, is a pain to get off. I used a few tiny and small screwdrivers to get it off without bending it or breaking it. This was by far the most challenging part of this job! In the end, it was a bit warped and not as tight as when I pulled it off, but it still worked. There are circlip tools, but they work with circlips that have tiny pry holes to connect to. The ones on the Nissan X-Trail do not have tiny holes, so don't buy a special tool. (Any suggestions from others on how to remove the circlip easily?)

II. When reassembling the motor and gear assembly, be sure to return the gear and pivot mechanism to the same position inside as when you opened it up. Also, re-assemble the outside arm mechanism in the same angle as you started. This will ensure that the wiper arm actually wipes in the same arc as it is intended to when you are finished putting it all back together! @Quadraria notes this in his instructions, but I wanted to make it a bit more explicit. 

That's it. Good luck!


----------



## Tooljunkie (Sep 24, 2018)

I performed this repair on my 05 to pass safety. Its an easy fix. Virtually identical to the murano as mentioned earlier. Dont let thus easy hob intimidate you, dig in and follow directions.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Glad to hear both you guys did the repair. Good stuff. Just a word to the wise I had to redo mine two years later, and it did the trick again. Second time I spent a bit more time with the metal polish and used bearing grease instead of lithium grease to lubricate the shaft.
When taking off that little c clip, its best to do it on a towel or something soft that can catch the spring if it flies off. I just used two little metal picks I have to pry it up a bit and work it off.


----------



## Tooljunkie (Sep 24, 2018)

I used silicone grease. Resistant to water wash out.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Good stuff. I was too cheap to go out and buy some. Just used what I had on hand. Previous time I did it over 2-3 years ago, I used lithium grease. This time I had good synthetic ball joint grease that I thought I would give a try, as the lithium grease appeared to have dried out. Been working fine for the past 10 months.


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

I learned a long time ago to not cheap out on grease. It's usually a lot of labor to take something apart and then a tiny amount of grease. This is what I use. It last forever. Even in bike pedals that aren't sealed very well and see a lot of water. 

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.synthetic-grease-141-oz-cartridge.1000735859.html


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Wow Food quality grease. Looks like good stuff, even impervious to salt water. I used this stuff
MotoMaster Wheel Bearing and Chassis Grease | Canadian Tire

Probably not as good as what you bought, but I think better than what I used before. Also works on my ball joints and tie rods that have lube fittings.
Actually I have a spare rear wiper motor that I picked up at Kenny U Pull last I was there, and took it apart and relubed it as well. So if and when my rear wiper fails again I will just swap it out. Mind you Nissan charges such a pretty penny for the motor that I should sell the spare I got. I have seen a number of X trails with the tell tale rear wiper stuck in the upright position


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

I have found that most lithium thickened greases will dry-out over time. They get hard and stop working. A fumed silica based grease (Viper Clear Grease or SuperLube Grease) lasts much, much longer. 

I prefer the Viper Clear Grease but it's harder to find in Canada. 
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB39342


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

You obviously know a lot more about grease than me. I am curious if you think dialectic grease would also be good to use or might it dry up as well over time?


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

Depends on the grease. The goal of dielectric grease is to protect an electrical connection not prevent wear on moving parts. I wouldn't use a dielectric grease on something like the washer arm pivot. 

Even though it's expensive, the SuperLube grease you can get at HomeDepot is also rated as a dielectric grease. It's as close as I have found to a universal product. I used to have multiple types of grease (wheel bearing, dielectric, white, silicon, marine, etc...). Now I only have the Viper Clear Grease and a special low viscosity grease for mountain bikes.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I may just pick some up next time I visit HD.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

So...We were told the rear wiper had issues. Not only is the fluid nozzle missing, but the wiper arm will not bend at the hinge so as to easily change the wiper blade. The wiper works, but the one on there no longer does a good job of clearing the glass. We can live with no fluid for awhile until we get parts, and hopefully it won't be too hard to fix. In the meantime, I sprayed WD40 on it, but no luck yet. Anyone else have this happen?


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly
You probably will need to replace the arm. I forget how much they cost at the dealer but I think its something like $60 for the part. The rear spray nozzle was $22 or so. A U pull yard would be the cheapest route. For the rear arm you may find a cheaper new alternative on Aliexpress or Ebay.
I had replaced mine a few years ago because rust on the hinge and spring got to the point that it would not hold pressure well against the rear hatch glass. I did the nozzle as well after my wife got a little too enthusiastic with the ice scrapper one freezing morning. Good luck with it.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

I got a new arm for our other one, from a used Nissan parts place in Lethbridge. They have them now; I looked in their inventory. Just odd that it froze at the hinge. Guess I'll add that to my shopping list!


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

sometimes you can get lucky and go get a used rear wiper arm off another used japanese vehicle at the auto wrecker. As long as the base of the wiper arm fits the pivoting rotating motor shaft on your xtrail. For example, you may find that a 2008-12 toyota rav 4, or a used mitsubishi outlander , toyota yaris, etc....not saying i know for a fact these will fit, but if you ask the autowrecker dude or take off your xtrail wiper and swap onto a japanese vehicle with a rear wiper on the back, it may fit and may be very cheap compared to the sometimes hard to find xtrails. Toyota matrix, honda Fit , nissan versa are more examples of cheaper economy hatchbacks with simple rear wiper designs that may be a universal fit.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Update: When I dropped off our new Exxie the other day, the mechanic saw us fiddling with the rear wiper while we were waiting, and in about five seconds, he had it unstuck, haha! Maybe that WD-40 helped a bit after all, but I guess he was able to apply enough force. So, now we have to find a rear washer fluid nozzle somewhere.... I have checked a lot of places online, and the shop owner also tried to find one, but no luck yet. I'll try the Nissan stealer in Lethbridge on Monday.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

in all my years as a Auto Glass technician, i've had some extremely stubborn front and rear vehicle wipers to remove. Sometimes no amount of spray lube or Auto glass tricks of the trade will remove a stubborn , seized wiper arm from its pivoting shaft. A few times things got destroyed in the process and replacement parts or some type of patch up job was required. I found that sometimes i got lucky by saturating the round turning pivot base with wd40/liquid wrench and letting it sit for 15 minutes to hours And the use of a good wiper arm removal tool was the only way. Last shop i worked at, i convinced the shop owner to get us a very good quality wiper removal tool that cost him about $125. There are cheaper ones at cnd tire, Lordco and sometimes Liquidation stores that have an automotive section. But the good ones costs more because they are made of high quality, work as intended and 99% of the time do the trick.





















Sometimes that splined shaft is too badly worn out and will not get enough grip to turn the wiper(s) . A smart technician will inspect that splined shaft and if it is determined to be in good condition, add the correct long lasting lube to it before reinstalling the wiper arm. Good idea to take a wire brush or rotary drill brush and remove as much surface rust before applying the lube!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

The wiper arm is working, and we replaced the old wiper blade but it still does not seem to make good contact with the glass so we are going to fiddle with that a bit. The main issue now is finding the squirty fluid nozzle thing so it can actually wash the window. 
Update: The Nissan dealer in Lethbridge will order one in for me. About $25.00 plus tax, so not super bad. Also, he said the rear should have a certain type of wiper on it and that may be the issue as far as poor glass contact.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

UPDATE: Forgot to tell you that I did get the part from Nissan, and it was installed, but by the time i got home, no water would come out, and so I went back. Turned out the fluid line had come off where it meets the hatch and was pouring on to the ground, so the guy did a patch job with electrical tape as it had apparently been messed with before. He said it may well come loose again, and yesterday it stopped squirting fluid, so I am off to the shop this afternoon to see if he can get it going again. This time though there is no fluid leaking on to the ground like last time. I tried poking the nozzle with a paper clip and let it run for over 30 seconds, and still nothing comes out! I suppose if it needs any parts, I will have to get it from Nissan as all I can find online are washer pump motors and wiper arms and blades. I also have to fiddle with the blade and try and get it to contact the glass better...will spray some WD40 on it to start. 

Further Update! So, just got back. The line was being pinched in the door! So, it may happen again but hopefully not for awhile. Can probably fix it myself if it does! And, my wiper blade is a bit better now, but it is pretty cheaply made so I will likely have to put a better quality one on there at some point.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Don't spray WD40 on your wiper rubber, best way to clean them is to wipe with rubbing alcohol. I tend to buy hybrid ones now and use them for a year and then replace them. Don't know if you have Reno Depot in your neck of the woods but they have Michelin Stealth wipers for 11.95 each in all sizes. I find them to work well in all seasons.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Don't spray WD40 on your wiper rubber, best way to clean them is to wipe with rubbing alcohol. I tend to buy hybrid ones now and use them for a year and then replace them. Don't know if you have Reno Depot in your neck of the woods but they have Michelin Stealth wipers for 11.95 each in all sizes. I find them to work well in all seasons.


No, I only sprayed it on the hinge area.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Don't spray WD40 on your wiper rubber, best way to clean them is to wipe with rubbing alcohol. I tend to buy hybrid ones now and use them for a year and then replace them. Don't know if you have Reno Depot in your neck of the woods but they have Michelin Stealth wipers for 11.95 each in all sizes. I find them to work well in all seasons.


What's funny is that the only Reno Depot other than in Quebec was in Calgary. Weird eh? It's permanently closed now. It probably became a Lowes.


----------



## normmc (3 mo ago)

2008 nissan quest replaced rear wiper motor and switch but wiper still not working


----------



## kaandemir (30 d ago)

I gave it some penetrating oil , worked till yesterday and I changed it today.









Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin​


----------

