# How to replace outer CV boot?



## stancho (Aug 26, 2006)

Hi, I need to replace my outer CV boot on the driver's side. Is that a difficult job? Do I need to disconnect the axle from the hub by removing the center wheel bolt? 

I tried to search around these forums but I could not find too much definitive information or a how-to guide.

I was planning on replacing my brake pads and rotors this weekend, so this may be a good time to do the CV boot as well. Any help is appreciated.

By the way, the car is a 2000 Altima.


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## DJMystery101 (Sep 4, 2006)

1 might be smarter to replace the whole half shaft. if the boot is ripped or torn it could have gottin shit inside the rollers on the end and thats never good. also u have to fill the boot with grease and thats a little messy where the whole shaft has it all connected and all you have to do is throw the shaft in its place.

which ever you do u'll have to realign the car.



if u do just the boots heres some info to help...



> How To Replace CV Boots:
> 
> (Applies to most Nissans except the Quest)
> 
> ...


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## stancho (Aug 26, 2006)

Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. It's sounds a little more complicated than I would've liked, but I think I'll give it a try this weekend, then I'll post a progress update.


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## DJMystery101 (Sep 4, 2006)

good luck. should be a fun little project.


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## stancho (Aug 26, 2006)

I replaced my front brake pads and rotors, which was not a hard job. However, I did not get to do the CV boot. The two bolts on the strut are badly rusted and have seized. I broke a breaker bar, an adapter and a ratchet and could not budge them. I'll try getting a 1/2" drive socket with a bigger breaker bar and try that and if it doesn't work I'm taking the car to a mechanic. It's been raining the last couple of days here and I've been driving through a lot of water, so I hope the bearing will hold up and I won't have to replace the whole axle.


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## stancho (Aug 26, 2006)

I guess this project was beyond my mechanical abilities. This weekend I was able to loosen the two strut bolts, took the axle out the wheel, and that was it. I could not separate the CV joint. I did not want to take the whole axle out of the transmission housing, even though then it would have probably been easier to separate the joint.

Boot in hand I went to an inexpensive mechanic I know, and he did the job for $60. I guess if I had replaced the whole axle myself it would've cost me the same. The boot itself was $12 and I believe axles are around $70.


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## DrumBum05 (Jan 18, 2006)

> Remove the center hub nut (BIG breaker bar and 32 or 36 mm socket.



Those are the only two sizes? No other possibility? I ask this because I know the rear axle is a 30...

btw, I have a 1995 B14 200SX, 1.6L, manual trans, no ABS.


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## stancho (Aug 26, 2006)

My Altima was a 36. Autozone (and probably other car part stores) have different size sockets as part of their loaner tool program. In this way, you don't have to buy a socket that doesn't fit.


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## DrumBum05 (Jan 18, 2006)

I was just planning on buying a 32, 33, 34, and a 36 and just return the ones I don't use lol I'm sure I'll use the correct one again


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## Gino45 (Oct 18, 2005)

My boot on my 98 Altima split open and I am thinking about replacing the drive shaft myself. Should the shaft just slide off once I've removed the center nut and strut bolts? Is there a seal on the transmission housing that should be replaced when I install the new shaft? Will the new shaft simply slide in place or will I have to hammer it in? Since I'll have the car jacked only a few inches (12) off the ground, I figure it may be difficult to get this job done properly, would I be better off getting a mechanic to fix this ?


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## desertaxguy (Nov 6, 2006)

I changed both my axles when the boots split. You need an air compressor to unscrew the axle nuts! One of my axle nuts was so tight the air compressor almost wouldnt undo it and I have a 7 horsepower big tank model that cooks the impact gun at appx 300 ft lbs. 
After you get all that undone, the rest is easy.
Oh, and dont forget to put your control arms back on correctly. I spent a couple of hours beating on mine and using a puller to try and force it back togather UPSIDE DOWN!
So, take your time.. if it doesnt go back together easily, its probably wrong!


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## Gino45 (Oct 18, 2005)

Thanks Desertaxguy, but I had a local shop install it for $60cdn. They charged me $90 for the part. At that price I figured I'll let them do it.


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## Ryan's Altima (Aug 29, 2006)

What types of things would you notice if your CV boot was bad?


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## Gino45 (Oct 18, 2005)

Ryan, a "bad" boot would be one that is about to split open or has already split open. If it's split you would most likely notice grease all over the inner wheel well. That how I knew my boot had spilt open. If it hasn't split open you could check for cracks within the seams/pleats. This would indicate that the rubber is drying out and could spilt later on. If the boots shows no signs of cracks, then I would consider it to be in good shape and wouldn't worry about it. FWIW, I never had a boot spilt before 120K miles on my cars.


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## Ryan's Altima (Aug 29, 2006)

Thanks Gino, I appreciate the response. I have a lot of creeking and cracking going on with my car right now. Like when I shift into drive and then after I shut off my car, I notice some loud creeking-ticking going on, "alot more than usual"


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## adelara (Aug 20, 2004)

so, it is said:
_Now, take your hub nut and thread it back onto the shaft and grab the end with your hand (place your hand between the nut and the face of the CV joint for better grip). Smack the lip of the cv joint, boot side, with the boot half still on it till it pops off. Remove the boot pieces from the axel and the joint._
Then I assume it is possible to separate the thing without removing the whole shaft from the vehicle... is that so ?
Thanks.


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## desertaxguy (Nov 6, 2006)

No, thats ridiculous to think it would work. There are pieces that hold it all together.
Like I said, it slides right into the transmission case, so don't be alarmed. Once you get the nut off you're home free! If you ever wanted an air compressor and the tools now is the time to get it. You'll be glad you did.! Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get one for less than $200 then you have your own Shop! My car has over 300,000 miles and I am never aggravated with shops any more. YOU CAN DO IT!

Thinking about all the problems actually took longer than the job! I was on my driveway (a hill) and it was getting dark.. I had to move the car to even put out the trash for the trashman.. Once you get the nut off the axle and the control arm end undone you are clear. I bought a rebuilt axle for $75 or so and its been fine. I did one at a time and you will have no trouble. Just take your time and do it right the first time!. 
I've done all the struts (front and back), both axles, all the motor mounts, complete control arms. Its fun and easy. The shop wanted almost $2,000 in my town for control arms alone. I did it for $120 in parts and less than an hour a side. You have to get a compressor if you want to work on heavy car stuff.


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## Shannon's Silver (Jan 12, 2015)

Hi. I have a 2001 Nissan Quest and I was planning on having my cv boots replaced in a few weeks. One bitterly cold morning I started my van and when I put it into gear it shut off and the battery light came on. I let it warm up a little bit longer and tried it again. It did seem to sputter and heisitate but it moved. New problem now is it shakes violently. A jerky jumpy type of shaking. Could this be my cv boot totally giving out or something else? 2 weeks ago I had all 3 of my belts replaced.


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