# GA turbo questions...



## DRYB0Y (Nov 9, 2003)

I'm serious about doing this, and I know I "shouldnt be serious about it if i'm not willing to shell out big bucks." anyway these questions are mainly aimed towards James and Wes and Javier...

I have been thinking about getting a manifold made at a local muffler shop... If I did that would it be easier for them to fabricate it using an existing header or would it be easier for them to do it from scratch? which manifold would be best, Ive seen log style, but they look like they flow like crap...

would it be easier to get a junkyard turbo/intercooler if I'm only looking for 4-6 lbs of boost? My theory is if I get the manifold and junkyard turbo/intercooler, then the hardest / most expensive part is done... I would only have to tap the oilpan and run the rest of the piping correct? I would eventually get and ECU, but the car will run (correct me if im wrong) without it, it just wont be at its top potential... basically I am *hoping* to have a little boost (4-6 psi) by February, is this really a goal you think I can aim for being a college student with around $1500. 

I am not into name brands nor am I into having "top of the line" stuff, I just want a little pep out of my car. I know it wont be cheap, and things will go wrong but I want to give this a try.

Thanks in advance -James


----------



## DRYB0Y (Nov 9, 2003)

another question, with a setup thats going for a low amount of boost, what would you upgrade (injectors, MAF, BOV etc) and what other turbo equipment would you want (AFC, FPR etc) sorry for the 2 long posts with so many questions.


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

for the manifold- if you really want to save all the money you can then I suggest you use the header and make a log style manifold. you will not have a problem with clearance that way. if you make a manifold then the equal length manifolds are more or less the best style of manifold. the log manifold are the best but lots of people use them and make a lot of power so I wouldn't be too concerned. 

for the turbo- you can get a good used t25 or t28 from the ppl on sr20forum.com just make sure its in good condition. 

if money is really a concern, don't run above 1-3 psi... which is hard to control because its so low, because I don't think the injectors are capable of handling any more. especially without an ecu. if you can at least get an AFC. other than that... I would suggest you get the JWT ecu... and upgrade the injectors as well... you can save money in the kit but it will cost you when your engine goes kaput!


----------



## TheVodKA (Sep 19, 2002)

Let the king of ghetto boost come up with something:
1. Manifold from JGS Tools 150 +welding w/ TD05 flange = 300
2. 1st gen eclipse turbo/bpv/smic Probably 100-150
3.Custom turbo back piping/exhaust w/ muffler =475 (thats lowest quote I've ever seen)
4. IC/BPV Piping =200
5. 370 cc injectors + fuel pump =200
6. JWT ECU 550 or SAFC if you're bold 220
7. Misc Fitting, oil lines, silicone couples =100-150
If you can weld and do all your own work, you can pull it in around 1500. I think it can be done cheaper, but this is the minimum I would go at


----------



## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

I agree with Vodka but I would do it a bit different. 

JGS tools manifold use a T2 flange. $150
Used BB T25 $200-$300
Used BB IC $50-$75
MISC piping to make IC piping $100 
Muffler shop DP $150 
370 CC injectors $150 
JWT ecu $550 
DSM BOV $75 give or take 
Couplers, clamps, oil and water lines $200
Various cheap sources

Roughly $1650 give or take $200

Exhaust helps a TON, don't forget that. 

This is with doing the welding yourself. The ONLY thing you MUST weld is the manifold, DP, and BOV flange, the rest of the ic piping can be cut and connected with couplers. 

I personally woul not go any less than this. Again this only works if you can find parts this cheap.


----------



## TheVodKA (Sep 19, 2002)

Couple of things on that:

Are you sure you shouldn't go with a full-turbo back, it seems like it would help a lot. Keep the EGTs and backpressure down while increasing power. Also, I dunno if you can use a stock fp. Maybe you can at low PSI, but I do believe that its a much better move to get an upgraded fp. Its only 80 bucks or so on ebay anyways, so its not too big of a cost.

P.S. I forgot about the emanage. Its a quite useful tuning tool if you have the time and resources, as you can address both fuel & timing issues (I dunno if you can address load though). Some 240sx board and sr20forum guys swear by it.


----------



## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

vodKA said:


> Couple of things on that:
> 
> Are you sure you shouldn't go with a full-turbo back, it seems like it would help a lot. Keep the EGTs and backpressure down while increasing power. Also, I dunno if you can use a stock fp. Maybe you can at low PSI, but I do believe that its a much better move to get an upgraded fp. Its only 80 bucks or so on ebay anyways, so its not too big of a cost.
> 
> P.S. I forgot about the emanage. Its a quite useful tuning tool if you have the time and resources, as you can address both fuel & timing issues (I dunno if you can address load though). Some 240sx board and sr20forum guys swear by it.


Well the downpipe comes off the turbo, and bolt's to the cat, the exhaust shoudl be cat back. I think that should be done. 

Stock fuel pump is fine. Mike young's car is using the stock fuel pump and stock regulator


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

thanks guys, I'm gonna start looking around for turbo parts and such, I'll let you know how everything turns out in the end. I already have a 2.5" cat back exhaust, which I know is too big for a stock GA, but for a GA +4 lbs of boost, I think that shouldnt be too small for such low boost levels... thanks again.


----------



## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Your exhaust should be fine, good luck man!


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

turbo manifold... 









I know it looks exotic, but the price is right... I'm gettin it!


----------



## TheVodKA (Sep 19, 2002)

Damn, those are some ugly ugly welds on that manifold


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

Probably the reason why the price is so good... hey, as long as it gets the job done, right?


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

you'll have to make a custom dp for that thing... i would just save money and do it right the first time... it may be more expensive up front but it will last longer and you won't have to spend big bucks making a custom dp for it...


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

... wouldnt making a custom DP be cheaper and easier then making a custom manifold?


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

DryBoy said:


> ... wouldnt making a custom DP be cheaper and easier then making a custom manifold?



i'm not suggesting either...


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

are you suggesting saving up and buying a hs turbo kit and doing things the RIGHT way?


----------



## Chuck (Nov 19, 2003)

well see, if i interpret correctly, i think dryboy is just looking for a little more pep, and if thats the case.. its not all TOO hard to make a DP, maybe 200$ including welding, and flanges... just find a very good reputable exhaust shop.. make sure they weld that thing 100% the smallest leak can turn into a hole the size of a quarter... Turbos make heat.. heat + pressure = tests metal quick...

Dryboy i applaud you for going custom turbo setup, and let me tell you that Jdawg is extremly reputable, been my friend for nearly a year, and i have been with him through thick and thin of his car...

it is true that buying a premade kit is cheaper, But, you are like me.. 4000$ is alot.. although its intercooled... its all on you man.. goodluck with whatever you choose


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

DryBoy said:


> are you suggesting saving up and buying a hs turbo kit and doing things the RIGHT way?


no you don't have to buy the kit... I'm not pro HS or partial to HS in anyway but that manifold just doesn't look very sturdy... see if you can just buy the HS manifold and dp... the rest is easy to make yourself, I did (meaning I didn't buy the kit either)


----------



## Chuck (Nov 19, 2003)

why doesnt it?... in my opinion.. it will work.. so long as it can be leak tested and not break.. it will flow, it actually looks like it has a 1.75" pipe on the 4>2>1... the 2nd pipes look rather large.. that could proove to have good torque. because its such a small length to travel.. then again. i think mike young is the true custom pioneer... we need to bring him into this, and hear his output, hell, i bet he probably even considered a manifold like this at one time?.. MIKE WHERE ARE U!


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

you know you can make a log style manifold, or get the Protech 1.8 manifold, and it wouldnt' cost that much...


----------



## Chuck (Nov 19, 2003)

hmm.. there was also a website that was posted a few posts down. i can look.. its like.. jgtools.com... or.. Gytools.com.. or something.. i know they custom tool stuff, they had a logstyle GA mani for 200..


----------



## Chuck (Nov 19, 2003)

whoops

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

this manifold is 100 bucks, the protech is in the range of 3 I believe... I'm not a rich man, I do with what I have. I realize there is a reason this is 100 and the protech is 300 but I'm not looking for 1000 hp, I'm looking to be able for my car to move a bit...


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

well that's what I'm trying to tell you, that 200 difference may seem big now but what if that cheap 100 manifold cracks? straight up falls apart, then you have a custom dp made for a manifold that no longer exists and you don't have the original measurments... but you get the production protech manifold and at least you have comfort that it is reliable and your dp can be made for a manifold that you can find again if it craps out on you. is that worth 200? I think so.


----------



## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*My input.*

Well the manifold is a pretty poor design and the turbo flange is not placed very well. It is about the same as a log if not possibly a little worse. I say worse because a log will certainly be more durable than that manifold, and I don't like how the pipe for cylinder's 2 and 3 actually point away from the direction they are traveling. Just being picky here, it will hold the turbo, it will work and your car will be faster. My advice is to cut the manifold flange to help absorb warpage and I would brace the turbo if possible to help take some of the load off the manifold. Also I cannot tell how thick the manifold flange, but it looks on the thin side. 

My only fear is that the manifold will totally break,crack after some good usage and you will want to replace it all together, then you will be stuck with re-fabbing a DP, IC piping, and the rest because you will not get that exact same manifold. 

Regardless, good luck.


----------



## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

yeah, I decided to not to get it.


----------

