# Advice on MAF



## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

Hey well, a mechanic told me my stock MAF is fucked.....so im gonna get a Z32 MAF.....my question is......will it affect anything else? will the ECU bitch? what good will it do to the KADE?

My KA has basic bolt ons I/E/H, Z32 fuel filter, etc....so if im about to change MAF i rather have a Z32 but i would like to have some input about it...since a friend of mine will be going to the junky i need to know if he also has to get the conector, so he would cut the wires......please give me a clear idea on this, since searching has only confused me even more....

Thanks


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

You need to remap the ecu


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## ittamaticstatic (Nov 5, 2003)

i was told it wouldn't matter direct swap and all. 
Is the calibration for the V6 to much for it. getting A high idle


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## BoostedSE (Jun 26, 2005)

you were told wrong, *unless you have an ECU retune for the z32 maf, or re-tune it yourself with a wideband and a SAFC2 it will not work.*

on top of that you wont see any bennefits from it and it won't get along well with your stock 270cc injectors. Think about it after other upgrades (turbo)


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## ittamaticstatic (Nov 5, 2003)

makes sence


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

BoostedSE said:


> you were told wrong, *unless you have an ECU retune for the z32 maf, or re-tune it yourself with a wideband and a SAFC2 it will not work.*
> 
> on top of that you wont see any bennefits from it and it won't get along well with your stock 270cc injectors. Think about it after other upgrades (turbo)



ok i will take your word for it.......so you think im better off with a stock MAF? from any 91-98 KA? or does it have to be from a 91-94?


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## BoostedSE (Jun 26, 2005)

i am honestly not sure since i own a 95, but i believe you have to use a 91-94. I know i had to find a 95+ for a direct fit for mine.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

BoostedSE said:


> i am honestly not sure since i own a 95, but i believe you have to use a 91-94. I know i had to find a 95+ for a direct fit for mine.



than im gonna try to get the 91-94.....also.....you think i might gain some performance? on low RPM it sounds wierd, plus doesnt have any balls......but when i gets to 4K its a whole different thing.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

if the one you have now is stuffed then yes it will make a difference to performance. Try cleaning yours first - it cant hurt.


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## 93_240_ka (Oct 26, 2005)

The z32 MAF is an upgrade for the ka usually for a turbo upgrade but can be used with n/a *the only thing you have to do * is reflash/remap your ECU *that is all *


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## BoostedSE (Jun 26, 2005)

suggestions on how to reflash because all that i know of is a $600ECU re-tune or a $300 safc2 both not worth the money for minimal gains on a NA car


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## 93_240_ka (Oct 26, 2005)

that is right unless you know someone who can do it for a good price but besides that it will benefit him if he ever wants to boost it


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

ive heard about being on a turbo with no prob, but didnt think for the NA it be more trouble, so im better off getting another one from a junky....or tell me how do you clean it? what do you use to clean ( flame me if you want i know its a stupid question, but i rather look stupid asking, than being stupid and fucking up later on)  

thanks guys


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

On the metal AFM's, remove the wire plug and undo the two scres in the top black plastic panel. Remove the panel - at the bottom of it is the hotwire (wire suspended between two posts). Spray it with degreaser or carb cleaner and use a soft bristled paintbrush to CAREFULLY wipe the gunk off the hotwire. Leave to dry for a bit and screw it all back together.

For plastic styled ones with the mesh cover and you cant unscrew them I find an aerosol style degreaser where it comes out in a pressurised stream is best.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

Joel said:


> On the metal AFM's, remove the wire plug and undo the two scres in the top black plastic panel. Remove the panel - at the bottom of it is the hotwire (wire suspended between two posts). Spray it with degreaser or carb cleaner and use a soft bristled paintbrush to CAREFULLY wipe the gunk off the hotwire. Leave to dry for a bit and screw it all back together.
> 
> For plastic styled ones with the mesh cover and you cant unscrew them I find an aerosol style degreaser where it comes out in a pressurised stream is best.



ok i will get to that, and if its the same will come back here and see if there is any other possible issue.......btw....what do you think if i just record how my engine iddles, and sounds when drving on low RPM, you think you can help me out a bit , i mean if you have time if not no prob.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

Im an SR man - not too informed on the KA


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

Joel said:


> Im an SR man - not too informed on the KA


And you should stay that way. lol :thumbup: 

Really truthfully, both the sr and the ka are the same engine. I mean, ones bigger, but powerwise, they're the same. It all depends on what you want, and what power you're willing to make. If you want a street car (and by street car I mean a car, that looks the same way it came from factory, a/c, powersteering, the works) Turbo your KA. Want something that's different, and wanting to sell your 240 to some kid when the new gay fast and furious comes out, get an sr.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

They are not the same when it comes to troubleshooting problems though - KA is simpler


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

Really? Hmm..Sorry bout that, posted it in the wrong thread too..


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## 93_240_ka (Oct 26, 2005)

its only harder if you don't have the manual to them either one is simple


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

93_240_ka said:


> its only harder if you don't have the manual to them either one is simple


ok looks like you know whats up with a KA.....since its simple!!!


what do you think it might be?...also there is a rattle noise coming near the intake manifold......when i rev it (from accel cable ofcourse) you can hear it kinda loud.....could it be the timing chain?


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Loki said:


> ok looks like you know whats up with a KA.....since its simple!!!
> 
> 
> what do you think it might be?...also there is a rattle noise coming near the intake manifold......when i rev it (from accel cable ofcourse) you can hear it kinda loud.....could it be the timing chain?


Is the sound coming from the Intake Manifold or from the head?
i had a bad rattling noise with my other motor, when i removed the valve cover the upper timing chain guide was just hanging out there rattling around so I took it out...


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

DaCheat said:


> Is the sound coming from the Intake Manifold or from the head?
> i had a bad rattling noise with my other motor, when i removed the valve cover the upper timing chain guide was just hanging out there rattling around so I took it out...



sounds right by the intake manifold, but the sound of the engine could fool me and maybe be the timing chain guide......

ALSO!!! just checked the MAF conectors and looks like they have conectivity (Sp) which means they are fine......now the mechanic told me since im now on Sea level, and with my injen intake, it makes my MAF go crazy...dont know if its true.........OPINIONS?


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

Loki said:


> sounds right by the intake manifold, but the sound of the engine could fool me and maybe be the timing chain guide......
> 
> ALSO!!! just checked the MAF conectors and looks like they have conectivity (Sp) which means they are fine......now the mechanic told me since im now on Sea level, and with my injen intake, it makes my MAF go crazy...dont know if its true.........OPINIONS?



still waiting for a response......not from the other idiot though


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## UP240SX (Aug 19, 2005)

I don't see how your altitude would effect the ECUs reading of the MAF. Where were you before you were at sea level? Denver would make a difference, but most places wouldn't. Atmospheric pressure and density are different everywhere, but the MAF should read it all the same way regardless. I have never heard of the ECU recalibrating the way it reads the MAF based on the local pressure and density.

You say you checked for connectivity, how clean were the connectors and the hot wire? Any type of corrosion or other crap on them would affect the resistivity of the circuit, which would then draw more or less current to keep the wire at the right temp. That would throw the ECU off. Just a thought.

Bazan


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

UP240SX said:


> I don't see how your altitude would effect the ECUs reading of the MAF. Where were you before you were at sea level? Denver would make a difference, but most places wouldn't. Atmospheric pressure and density are different everywhere, but the MAF should read it all the same way regardless. I have never heard of the ECU recalibrating the way it reads the MAF based on the local pressure and density.
> 
> You say you checked for connectivity, how clean were the connectors and the hot wire? Any type of corrosion or other crap on them would affect the resistivity of the circuit, which would then draw more or less current to keep the wire at the right temp. That would throw the ECU off. Just a thought.
> 
> Bazan



the car was in TRACY California, in the Central Valley (stockton, modesto,) so it is above sea level.....and here in Puerto Vallarta.....shit man...the beach is just 3 blocks from home.......and i was told i need to reset my ECU so it can correct any previous erros, or something like that....the MAF is clean, the wire looks fine.....so im looking for any vacume leak.......also the check engine is ON.......but when i cleaned it, the next day i put gas on the car and turned it on.......the check engine was gone from about 10am til about 11pm that same night.........the friking light is back


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## UP240SX (Aug 19, 2005)

Well, I just looked up the average elevation of Tracy, CA and it is 48 feet above sea level. Even if the ECU recalibrates the way it reads the MAF, 48 feet would not make a difference. The pressure/density at 48 feet altitude is very close to that of sea level, certainly within tolerances of any measuring device that Nissan would have used on a 240SX.

Reseting the ECU isn't a bad idea to rid it of any and all error codes that may have cropped up. I assume from your reply that the CEL wasn't on when you cleaned the MAF and checked it. You might try to read the code. I know there is a procedure for it posted on this forum somewhere. I'm sure you can find it if you search for it. I don't know the procedure for checking the code, but I'm sure that'll help you determine part of the problem.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Loki said:


> sounds right by the intake manifold, but the sound of the engine could fool me and maybe be the timing chain guide......
> 
> ALSO!!! just checked the MAF conectors and looks like they have conectivity (Sp) which means they are fine......now the mechanic told me since im now on Sea level, and with my injen intake, it makes my MAF go crazy...dont know if its true.........OPINIONS?


If you're getting a rattling sound, not a ticking sound, at idle or low RPMs, then it could be a timing chain problem. The DOHC motor can have up to 3 chain guides; if the motor has a top guide, it may have come off; if that's OK, then one of the other two guides may be worn. Another possibility is low oil pressure which would cause the chain tensioners not to fully work; an oil pressure check can quickly verify this.

The MAF can be easily checked for proper operation by doing a voltage check while the motor is operating; here's a procedure .

Some folks have had idle problems with an Injen intake; it may just be a matter of ECU relearning; disconnect the battery for 24 hours to fully reset the ECU; now it should relearn the new setup.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

rogoman said:


> If you're getting a rattling sound, not a ticking sound, at idle or low RPMs, then it could be a timing chain problem. The DOHC motor can have up to 3 chain guides; if the motor has a top guide, it may have come off; if that's OK, then one of the other two guides may be worn. Another possibility is low oil pressure which would cause the chain tensioners not to fully work; an oil pressure check can quickly verify this.
> 
> The MAF can be easily checked for proper operation by doing a voltage check while the motor is operating; here's a procedure .
> 
> Some folks have had idle problems with an Injen intake; it may just be a matter of ECU relearning; disconnect the battery for 24 hours to fully reset the ECU; now it should relearn the new setup.



dissconect the battery 24 hours? mmm it wont make a diff if its 24 hours or 20 minutes......alredy did that......the voltage check on the MAF as well, and as for the timing chain i think im gonna check on that as well...


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

UP240SX said:


> Well, I just looked up the average elevation of Tracy, CA and it is 48 feet above sea level. Even if the ECU recalibrates the way it reads the MAF, 48 feet would not make a difference. The pressure/density at 48 feet altitude is very close to that of sea level, certainly within tolerances of any measuring device that Nissan would have used on a 240SX.
> 
> Reseting the ECU isn't a bad idea to rid it of any and all error codes that may have cropped up. I assume from your reply that the CEL wasn't on when you cleaned the MAF and checked it. You might try to read the code. I know there is a procedure for it posted on this forum somewhere. I'm sure you can find it if you search for it. I don't know the procedure for checking the code, but I'm sure that'll help you determine part of the problem.



i cant belive its only about 48 feet.....since i remember that ugly ass down hill to LIVERMORE.....that shit was LONG.....where did you find this info? also tracy was dry heat area, here in PV its 100% humid dont know if that makes a difference.


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## BoostedSE (Jun 26, 2005)

its not the elevation


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

BoostedSE said:


> its not the elevation



than what could it be?


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## UP240SX (Aug 19, 2005)

I got the information of of TopoZone which uses United States Geological Survey Topographical maps. I didn't look at the map itself, but the average elevation at Tracy CA was 48 feet. That doesn't mean there aren't some huge hills, for instance up here in the UP where I live, we have ridgelines right behind my place that are 1000ft. but the average elevation here in houghton is 607ft.

The ECU may need to be disconnected from the battery for 24hrs due to a capacitor or backup battery. That way, when your battery dies, you won't lose all of the calibrations and such that the ECU has changed. It would probably take 24 hours to discharge the capacitor or backup battery, seeing as in most cases a battery would be replaced in that amount of time if it died.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

UP240SX said:


> I got the information of of TopoZone which uses United States Geological Survey Topographical maps. I didn't look at the map itself, but the average elevation at Tracy CA was 48 feet. That doesn't mean there aren't some huge hills, for instance up here in the UP where I live, we have ridgelines right behind my place that are 1000ft. but the average elevation here in houghton is 607ft.
> 
> The ECU may need to be disconnected from the battery for 24hrs due to a capacitor or backup battery. That way, when your battery dies, you won't lose all of the calibrations and such that the ECU has changed. It would probably take 24 hours to discharge the capacitor or backup battery, seeing as in most cases a battery would be replaced in that amount of time if it died.



im gonna try that 24hour thing....im also going to scan the ECU...i found the codes on 240sx.org (just in case some one needs em).


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