# KA24E Starts then dies



## ERT-Jeffrey (May 5, 2010)

Hello everyone,

KA24E starts without any hesitation but after starting it will run extremely ruff, like it will die any second. Now, the engine may run for thirty seconds in idle up to about three minutes. Also if I give the truck gas it dies faster.

Thinking it might be something to do with the distributor cap I took it off, inspected and reseated the cap. After starting the truck it idled perfectly, no issues. Went to take off and truck soon after died, maybe four feet. Restarted truck and was then able to go around the block. However while doing this it would at times want to die and surged. Needless to say I started it again, ruff then died.

I pulled one plug at a time and tested for spark and gap, all good. However, every plug did have a good oil coating and carbon deposits on them. I wouldn't say to bad, but I am not a mechanic.

Before all of this happened...I washed the engine with some good degrease so I could spot any new leaks or future issues better, plus I hate dirty engines. I have washed every engine I have ever owned, about ten, and never had this problem before. And yes I covered all of the electrical components, but maybe not good enough?

Where do I go? What do I do?

So far I am about to go and buy an American vehicle. Needless to say this is my first foreign vehicle and possibly last. Here I come 300HP 2500HD Silverado!


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if it was fine before you sprayed it ..then start it and let it idle for an hour or more..

let it get nice and warmed up ..maybe you just got water where it was not suppose to be and what ever chemical you used it lingering..

it never hurts to read the codes...


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## ERT-Jeffrey (May 5, 2010)

Well sadly I cant let it idle because it dies quickly, 30 seconds to three minutes. The codes require me to get to Autozone so they can be scanned...it don't drive. Kinda in a hard spot?

I am letting it site for 48 hours then try again...hope it works.


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## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

x2, sounds like it needs some drying time.

When I wash out mine, I take my shop vac with the hose connected to exhaust (blower mode) and use the concentrator tip to blow any excess water off from around the TB, coils, dist, and any standing water. It also works well getting water out of the grill, mirrors, bumpers and other cracks and crevices. No, I don't "blow dry" it, just force the water I can't reach with a chamois out in the open where I can then wipe it up.

FWIW: my Jeep Cherokee is pretty fussy about water in certain areas on the engine (go figure). In particular the TPS and IAC. These are on top of the intake manifold and well protected from any water splashing up from below. When I wash it off, I have to cover them carefully with baggies and avoid directly spraying the hose on a high setting.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

u do not need a machine to read the codes...

read the sticky and read the codes...


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I wouldn't run out and buy a Silverado just yet...

So this problem seems to be entirely based on the engine wash; right? You weren't experiencing any of this before you sprayed the engine?

Maybe you should spray a little WD-40 on the cap and wires (or some other water displacement fluid). Maybe pull the breather off, prop the hood open and let it sit in the afternoon sun for awhile.

Finally, what about a vacuum line? Maybe you knocked a vacuum line off. There are some real small ones that might let go if they got hit with a healthy stream of water. Specifically, I'm thinkin' lines that run under the breather, but above the throttle body. 

Good luck!


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## ERT-Jeffrey (May 5, 2010)

Okay everyone thanks for your replies. I checked the ECU and it was showing no codes..very helpful. After letting the car sit in Arizona with its hood open for about six hours then over night the truck returned to normal operation!

For the past few days me Brake and Anti-Lock lights have been on, just turned out to be low fluids. Fixed for under $3.00


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if your a bone head and you know it clap your hands...
if your a bone head and you know it clap your hands...

if you spray your engine down and flood it out you may be a bone head..

can you hear the music...lol.

this will probably get me a banned..


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## ERT-Jeffrey (May 5, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> if your a bone head and you know it clap your hands...
> if your a bone head and you know it clap your hands...
> 
> if you spray your engine down and flood it out you may be a bone head..
> ...


Uhm...okay.

So we know it has an issue somewhere with water getting where it should not be..so what areas are water sensitive so that I may correct any issues. This truck is being designed for an off road toy which will include water crossing and such...


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## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

Well, that's very hard to say. You need to check *all* electrical connectors. 

Bear in mind that hosing with high pressure from above is not the same as getting splashed from below. If you're planning skid plates, consider extending them a bit to also act as splash guards where appropriate.

Use dielectric grease in the connectors, dist cap, spark plug wires (both ends) and any other place where photons and H20 don't mix.

How deep a crossing are you planning? No matter how much you prepare, it's not a submarine.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

pardon me .. i was drinking..

the truck can go thru some water but never higher than the dizzy...

even starter height is probably too much..


remember the quote from riskey business..." who is the uboat commander..."


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Woohoo...I made a suggestion that helped somebody (prop the hood in the afternoon sun)! I feel so special.

Don't remember the Risky Business quote, but I do remember the U-571 quote, "Damn Krauts sure can build a boat!" (as they surpassed crush depth)


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## ERT-Jeffrey (May 5, 2010)

Thanks everyone for you responses to my thread. However, it is no longer an issue to determine where the 'leak' is as I am replacing the engine, transmission, transfer case and whatever else I feel like. If you have advice on doing to a VG60 swap please refer to my new thread.


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