# Need advice & help with 98 Sentra P1320



## 80202 (Feb 3, 2014)

1998 Sentra 1.6 123k miles. Not my car but helping someone else. Initial complaint was loss of power after it warmed up with hesitation and eventual stalling. It was not turning on Check Engine Light or storing any codes however. We have checked and replaced older parts like plug wires (plugs are good), cap and rotor, fuel filter. I checked the voltages as outlined in the FSM EC pages around 340-ish and have proper grounds and voltage where indicated. It finally threw a P1320 code, no others. Ran fine cold but when warmed up it started the hesitation on acceleration and even when just revving the engine not under load. Made it back home and now it will not start. It does turn over. My thought is the distributer/coil/transistor failed. I don't think a crank sensor would act this way but I have not actually checked it (cold and dirty floor). Any other thoughts or suggestions before I replace the distributor? Has anyone used the cheaper new units off the internet?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Cam position sensor, power transistor and coil are all built-in the distributor assy. and not replaceable separately, so, chances are pretty good that the problem is the distributor. However, it could be a circuit issue with the primary ignition system or a bad resistor. The only way to know 100% is to follow the diagnostic procedure per the service manual for DTC P1320. As far as replacement distributors, I prefer genuine Nissan reman units as they are far more reliable than aftermarket units, albeit a lot more expensive. If you can find a Hitachi reman on the aftermarket, I would go with that. Cardone Select offers a brand new distributor on the aftermarket for under $200, which might be a good option, but I'd still rather have the genuine Nissan part.


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## 80202 (Feb 3, 2014)

Thanks for the fast response. The resistor is one thing I have not really tested. This one is a small plastic gray rectangular piece about 2x.5 inches taped to the wiring harness leading to the power connector for the coil. I don't see where there is a disconnect plug for it but he manual indicates it should have one. I peeled open the harness and the leads just go into the bundle. The far end of the resistor has a tiny tab and a black insert but I don't think it was meant to come apart. I could cut the leads but there isn't a lot to work with to splice it back in. Any idea?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

There should be a 2-pin connector to it. The resistor spec is 2.2K Ohms @ 77 degrees F. Honestly, I don't see too many of these fail and circuit problems are even pretty scarce. You're probably looking at a bad distributor.


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## 80202 (Feb 3, 2014)

I replaced the distributor with a new cheapo and it runs perfect. This is just an around town car anyway. Thanks for the help.


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## SAM302 (Feb 21, 2014)

80202 said:


> 1998 Sentra 1.6 123k miles. Not my car but helping someone else. Initial complaint was loss of power after it warmed up with hesitation and eventual stalling. It was not turning on Check Engine Light or storing any codes however. We have checked and replaced older parts like plug wires (plugs are good), cap and rotor, fuel filter. I checked the voltages as outlined in the FSM EC pages around 340-ish and have proper grounds and voltage where indicated. It finally threw a P1320 code, no others. Ran fine cold but when warmed up it started the hesitation on acceleration and even when just revving the engine not under load. Made it back home and now it will not start. It does turn over. My thought is the distributer/coil/transistor failed. I don't think a crank sensor would act this way but I have not actually checked it (cold and dirty floor). Any other thoughts or suggestions before I replace the distributor? Has anyone used the cheaper new units off the internet?


Hi: Could be a few diff things. Here's a start...
If you haven"t already checked your coil, you'll need to. SURE TEST: Remove distrib cap w/wires. While holding the INSULATED END of a screw driver, place the opposite, metal end, close to the section of coil, that holds the very small contact spring. This is the section of the coil that transfers secondary coil current to the distrb cap & rotor... Cap connects to this section via carbon "button like" contact.

Crank engine... Bright blue/white spark should jump to screw driver. Orange spark is weak & not an acceptable spark- bad coil.

NOTE: Coil may have internal "hairline" wire break resulting to intermittent function... Will operate @ cold start temperature & NOT operate after engine reaches running/operation temperate. 

GOOD LUCK!
SAM302


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## SAM302 (Feb 21, 2014)

Hi: Could be a few diff things. Here's a start...
If you haven"t already checked your coil, you'll need to. SURE TEST: Remove distrib cap w/wires. While holding the INSULATED END of a screw driver, place the opposite, metal end, close to the section of coil, that holds the very small contact spring. This is the section of the coil that transfers secondary coil current to the distrb cap & rotor... Cap connects to this section via carbon "button like" contact.

Crank engine... Bright blue/white spark should jump to screw driver. Orange spark is weak & not an acceptable spark- bad coil.

NOTE: Coil may have internal "hairline" wire break resulting to intermittent function... Will operate @ cold start temperature & NOT operate after engine reaches running/operation temperate. 

GOOD LUCK!
SAM302


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