# A/C Compressor Interchange B12



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Alrighty back at it again on the 1987 sentra hatchback.. So, the previous owner either gutted the car for its AC for "power" lol.... Or it just never came with one. Either way I'm starting from scratch. 
Interior wise it looks like it should blow cold air if everything we're still intact under the hood that's AC related. Looked online because these cars aren't available at junk yards, and most places are wanting upwards of $300 or more new/reman and there's no guarantee it's the one I want, because I have no old parts to look to for reference. There is a 1989 Nissan Maxima (I believe) or a stanza at the junkyard, would that fit? Also 1 or 2 b13/b14's. If not what else would fit? I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, I just want ac. Record highs in this part of the country. Thanks


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SMJ might know better than I do, but I think in '87 they were still kitting out A/C as an accessory that could be added by the dealer. I know you can still find kits for D21's and some of the other oldies, so you might want to check that. It would probably cost more, but you'll have a brand new A/C system you can rely on.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Alrighty back at it again on the 1987 sentra hatchback.. So, the previous owner either gutted the car for its AC for "power" lol.... Or it just never came with one. Either way I'm starting from scratch.
> Interior wise it looks like it should blow cold air if everything we're still intact under the hood that's AC related. Looked online because these cars aren't available at junk yards, and most places are wanting upwards of $300 or more new/reman and there's no guarantee it's the one I want, because I have no old parts to look to for reference. There is a 1989 Nissan Maxima (I believe) or a stanza at the junkyard, would that fit? Also 1 or 2 b13/b14's. If not what else would fit? I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, I just want ac. Record highs in this part of the country. Thanks





VStar650CL said:


> SMJ might know better than I do, but I think in '87 they were still kitting out A/C as an accessory that could be added by the dealer. I know you can still find kits for D21's and some of the other oldies, so you might want to check that. It would probably cost more, but you'll have a brand new A/C system you can rely on.


Agreed. I am now confident that it never did come with one, because it is missing the AC compressor mounting bracket. 
Who's SMJ?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

@smj999smj, he's one of the moderators here. He's an old-timer master tech with an astonishing encyclopedic knowledge of 80'~90's stuff. I'm a master too, but I was out of the business for a long time and my knowledge base for Nissan stuff before about '05 is limited compared to his.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Sweet, @VStar650CL thank you. And you too, @smj999smj. It sure is a hot mother outside, but I'm broke till July 5th lol, so I'll wait patiently for any advice and tips that may accumulate 🙃
However, the mounting bracket I found for an E16s certainly appears to be one of a kind or in a dry spell, as I've only been able to find one. Shipping costs just as much as the product, and it's two and a half hours away delivery. (Total overall cost $30 bucks, 14 for part & 13 for shipping. )
Send it?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If the car never had air then you'll need a lot more than a compressor and bracket. You'll also need a belt, condenser, receiver/drier, evap assembly and all the plumbing. Contact these guys, they're one of the outfits that market D21 kits and they can probably help you out with a kit or at least a list of what's needed.









After Market AC Systems


The supplier has reached out to us concerning aftermarket systems. They are having issues with their Vaccum forming machine. So there is limited availability, but they are open for business. That said, we will offer quotes, but as far as ship times, there most likely will be delays. All or




www.ackits.com


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> If the car never had air then you'll need a lot more than a compressor and bracket. You'll also need a belt, condenser, receiver/drier, evap assembly and all the plumbing. Contact these guys, they're one of the outfits that market D21 kits and they can probably help you out with a kit or at least a list of what's needed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sweet thanks.
By the way I definitely know what I'm in for lol. 
It'll be worth it in the end


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Sweet thanks.
> By the way I definitely know what I'm in for lol.
> It'll be worth it in the end


No, with a kit you'll be surprised how easy it is. The old stuff was all set up with a long duct between the blower and heater to allow adding the evap as an accessory. Techs would install kits on new cars at the dealership as an after-hours side job and the dealership would sell them as factory air. If you were good, you could kick most of them out in under two hours. It's all nuts-and-bolts.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> No, with a kit you'll be surprised how easy it is. The old stuff was all set up with a long duct between the blower and heater to allow adding the evap as an accessory. Techs would install kits on new cars at the dealership as an after-hours side job and the dealership would sell them as factory air. If you were good, you could kick most of them out in under two hours. It's all nuts-and-bolts.


I contacted that company an unfortunately they no longer carry a kit for my vehicle. So everyone site wide knows❤
Alrighty then! Lol... @VStar650CL , any other ideas?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Alrighty then! Lol... @VStar650CL , any other ideas?


Nope, you're going to have a long row to hoe if there's no kit available. The one thing you'll need to find that's specific to your vehicle is the evap housing, everything else can probably be pirated from a later model or even fabbed if necessary. The evap housing will be dimensioned specifically to fit the hole under your dash, so you're pretty much stuck with locating one in a JY.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Nope, you're going to have a long row to hoe if there's no kit available. The one thing you'll need to find that's specific to your vehicle is the evap housing, everything else can probably be pirated from a later model or even fabbed if necessary. The evap housing will be dimensioned specifically to fit the hole under your dash, so you're pretty much stuck with locating one in a JY.


Hmm.... So, i have the mount coming in Friday (yes lol i overpaid for shipping). From there, maybe take the mount with me to the salvage yard and hunt for a compressor from another Sentra gen, see if it'll match? If not, probably mod it to fit?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yah, you can probably use any compressor from a cycling-clutch system that will fit in the hole. Actually, getting the engine box components and plumbing off something recent that can be modified to fit will probably save you grief, it'll already be set up for R134a and not R12. You can probably mix-and-match anything from B13~15 Sentras and gen1 Versas to construct what you need. The evaps don't really change anything between R12 and R134, so your big deal will still be finding an evap housing that fits in the hole. I dunno exactly when Nissan stopped kitting their A/C's, but anything that wasn't built for kitting isn't gonna work. I think you're pretty much stuck with finding a unit out of a B11, B12, or maybe B13 Sentra.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

VStar650CL said:


> I think you're pretty much stuck with finding a unit out of a B11, B12, or maybe B13 Sentra.


You know what, maybe I take that back. Here's the line drawing of the evap housing from the Nissan parts catalog. There isn't much to it, and to make a box, you could cut up the existing connector duct that you'd usually throw away after installing the kit. I'm thinking you can probably just find a plastic storage box that more or less fits the evap you want to use, modify it to fit where the connector duct did, then seal it up with insulating foam from Home Depot. It won't look pretty but it should work fine, all it really needs to do is force air through the evap.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Hmm.... So, i have the mount coming in Friday (yes lol i overpaid for shipping). From there, maybe take the mount with me to the salvage yard and hunt for a compressor from another Sentra gen, see if it'll match? If not, probably mod it to fit?





VStar650CL said:


> Nope, you're going to have a long row to hoe if there's no kit available. The one thing you'll need to find that's specific to your vehicle is the evap housing, everything else can probably be pirated from a later model or even fabbed if necessary. The evap housing will be dimensioned specifically to fit the hole under your dash, so you're pretty much stuck with locating one in a JY.





VStar650CL said:


> Yah, you can probably use any compressor from a cycling-clutch system that will fit in the hole. Actually, getting the engine box components and plumbing off something recent that can be modified to fit will probably save you grief, it'll already be set up for R134a and not R12. You can probably mix-and-match anything from B13~15 Sentras and gen1 Versas to construct what you need. The evaps don't really change anything between R12 and R134, so your big deal will still be finding an evap housing that fits in the hole. I dunno exactly when Nissan stopped kitting their A/C's, but anything that wasn't built for kitting isn't gonna work. I think you're pretty much stuck with finding a unit out of a B11, B12, or maybe B13 Sentra.


Oh, man... Geez, I've literally never done an A/C before on any car I've ever owned, I've just.... Done without A/C instead. Forgive me, what is an EVAP housing?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Oh, man... Geez, I've literally never done an A/C before on any car I've ever owned, I've just.... Done without A/C instead. Forgive me, what is an EVAP housing?


Okay, let's start with the basics for you. Any A/C system has five major components, and you should understand up front that an A/C doesn't actually produce cold, in physics terms it removes heat. Just like anything coming out of a spray can will freeze your finger, pressurizing a gas into a fluid heats it up, while releasing the pressure causes its temperature to drop. That physics principle (Pressure-Volume-Temperature, or PVT Laws) underlies all refrigeration. So the idea of the system is to pressurize the refrigerant gas (component 1, the compressor), which heats it up. Then it pumps through the condenser (component 2) located in front of the radiator, which dumps heat into the air. Then it goes through the receiver/drier (component 3), which lets any moisture settle out and be captured by silicone pellets. Then it hits either a fixed expansion orifice or (on most Nissans) a Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV, component 4) which meters the amount of refrigerant reaching the evap so it doesn't freeze up. It's basically a restriction just like the pinhole in a spray can tip. So when it reaches the evap (component 5), the liquid refrigerant turns into a gas on the other side of the metering restriction, just like escaping a spray can. The evap gets very cold and absorbs heat out of the incoming air, which is being forced through it by your blower motor. Leaving the evap, the refrigerant heads back to the compressor as a lukewarm gas and the cycle begins again.

The evap is of course always inside the car, which is why there are always two hoses going through the firewall, one that feeds the TXV and the other that returns refrigerant to the compressor. Since air has to be forced through it by the blower, all it really needs is a sealed box with an in duct and an out duct. That brings us back to my last post, that you might be able to simply construct something, which would let you steal the whole system out of any later model that will more-or-less fit in the right holes.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

I see.
Good thing I have a small grasp to what you're saying. I have noticed on the beep beep (Sentra) that there is a heater hose (coolant) going in but I am not sure if there is any AC hoses going in through the firewall. There is however a couple of blank plugs for evap in and evap out I would guess right next to the heater hoses.








I feel like it is not only safe to assume it's never had it but that those are the "ready to install" plugs for the A/C evap. Unless, of course, it is the hole closer to the blower motor by the upper passenger floorboard.








As pictured here, I used this other firewall opening (pass. flrbrd) to relocate my battery for funsies. The more I am looking at this picture, the more likely it is looking that the EVAP situation needs to be in this area, much to my dismay. Is that correct?


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

@VStar650CL here's a list of a couple yards in my area, as close to year range you said would be ideal. Not all are sentras though.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Those plastic blank-plugs are definitely for the evap lines. If you look at the drawing for how the lines on the core are arranged, you'll see they're staggered diagonally just like the holes in the firewall. The evap housing will need to fit right behind the blank holes on the other side. You're almost certainly going to need some cutting and drilling unless it turns out the B13 evap is identical (it might be, I'm not saying it isn't). But whatever evap you find, see if you can find the entire rest of the system out of one car and get the VIN off it so I can help you get the electrical stuff right. I wouldn't worry about fitting the hoses, any hydraulic shop can modify the hoses from the donor car or even make new ones.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Those plastic blank-plugs are definitely for the evap lines. If you look at the drawing for how the lines on the core are arranged, you'll see they're staggered diagonally just like the holes in the firewall. The evap housing will need to fit right behind the blank holes on the other side. You're almost certainly going to need some cutting and drilling unless it turns out the B13 evap is identical (it might be, I'm not saying it isn't). But whatever evap you find, see if you can find the entire rest of the system out of one car and get the VIN off it so I can help you get the electrical stuff right. I wouldn't worry about fitting the hoses, any hydraulic shop can modify the hoses from the donor car or even make new ones.


So the holes from in the engine bay on the firewall next to the coolant heater hoses are for the EVAP lines? Sweet. B13 is the donor of choice? If so, I have reason to believe my life will be that much easier.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yah, I don't know if the evaps will be identical to a B12, but if you can't find another B12, getting a system out of the next gen Sentra would seem to offer the least screwing around to adapt the hardware and controls.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Putting fsm for 88 b12 Sentra AC diagrams on here for the greater good❤


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sweet, that will definitely help. I'm sure it helps clarify my explanation of how it works, too. Good stuff.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

I'm definitely glad it helps. I'm sure I'm the only person in at least the United States right now trying to put an AC on a B12 Nissan, instead of taking it off.








Also fellow hot boiz, here's the mount!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> I'm sure I'm the only person in at least the United States right now trying to put an AC on a B12 Nissan, instead of taking it off.


C'mon, you're _upgrading_ it.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

This is the parts drawing for a '90 B13. The evap is shaped a little different but it's still a separate, "kittable" unit like the B12 with a TXV that's separate from the core. So I'd imagine it can be modified to fit in the B12 hole with stuff from Home Depot and a few custom hoses from a hydraulic shop.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> This is the parts drawing for a '90 B13. The evap is shaped a little different but it's still a separate, "kittable" unit like the B12 with a TXV that's separate from the core. So I'd imagine it can be modified to fit in the B12 hole with stuff from Home Depot and a few custom hoses from a hydraulic shop.
> 
> View attachment 7509


That's so cool, and useful!!! I'll be printing that off as soon as I'm at work tomorrow! 
But, uh... Is it just me, or is that the exact same housing, just turned at a different angle? It looks super similar!


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

@VStar650CL not the same but similar, you're right


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yep. Your non-A/C car will have a duct tube where the evap would be. You'll just need to cut that up and use it to mate the B13 openings to your B12, plus relocating the evap through-holes if the tubes don't match up. I think that should be it for the interior side of things.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Didn't know it was called a suitcase housing..🤷‍♂️


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yep. Your non-A/C car will have a duct tube where the evap would be. You'll just need to cut that up and use it to mate the B13 openings to your B12, plus relocating the evap through-holes if the tubes don't match up. I think that should be it for the interior side of things.


And 3m makes a tape for dryer vents that'll work for frankenstein-ing things together.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> And 3m makes a tape for dryer vents that'll work for frankenstein-ing things together.


Exactly. Home Depot will probably be your best friend for that part of the job. Some people also call the suitcase a peanut because of the ribbed plastic on the outside looking like a peanut shell.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Exactly. Home Depot will probably be your best friend for that part of the job. Some people also call the suitcase a peanut because of the ribbed plastic on the outside looking like a peanut shell.


I found the motherf**** holy f**** GRAIL








I've been looking at this Auto Yard for about 3 months now.... not necessarily for AC parts perse, but for parts in general for at least a chassis/model "match" for my car... nothing. A pulsar is pretty much a sentra that looks uglier and goes faster. Has the twin cam engine in it, every bit of AC parts I could ever need. Beat up racing seats. Maybe stock? @VStar650CL , unfortunately the junkyard is closed right now, but is there anything else you could think of ripping off this maybe in the next couple days?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> A pulsar is pretty much a sentra that looks uglier and goes faster.


Interestingly put...   



NuevaGallinas said:


> is there anything else you could think of ripping off this maybe in the next couple days?


Just gut _everything_ related to the A/C system (remember, we need to make the electrical and control system work too), and most importantly, get the VIN off it so we can positively identify the way it was strung and wired. Any connectors attached to things like the triple switch, cut 'em loose and take them along with whatever they're attached to. Nothing about this project will be rocket science, but it's the kind of mix-and-match exercise that will benefit greatly from having _all_ the possible hardware.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Interestingly put...
> 
> 
> 
> Just gut _everything_ related to the A/C system (remember, we need to make the electrical and control system work too), and most importantly, get the VIN off it so we can positively identify the way it was strung and wired. Any connectors attached to things like the triple switch, cut 'em loose and take them along with whatever they're attached to. Nothing about this project will be rocket science, but it's the kind of mix-and-match exercise that will benefit greatly from having _all_ the possible hardware.


I anticipated that, and this AC kit like you said was definitely a plug-and-play thing you could buy after the fact... I purchased anything electrical that was connected to that box. As I am sure you saw, I cut the two metal pipes that were connected to the condenser (whatever is in the suitcase).
All other electrical stuff I cut at the radio harness. Also, my car appears to be ready for any and all connections, and I have all plugs still attached. Some splicing required as expected here, as shown. The FSM will sure come in handy.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> I am sure you saw, I cut the two metal pipes that were connected to the condenser (whatever is in the suitcase).


That's the evap, the condenser will be up in front of the radiator. I hope you cut the evap lines on the engine box side, I can't tell from the pic. If you cut the fittings off then you may need to find another evap (not a disaster, though, most of the old evaps are still available). Did you get everything out of the engine box, too? If not you should go back and grab it, you'll need all of it. A complete system will be the easiest transplant, except for maybe the compressor if the mounting is radically different.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> That's the evap, the condenser will be up in front of the radiator. I hope you cut the evap lines on the engine box side, I can't tell from the pic. If you cut the fittings off then you may need to find another evap (not a disaster, though, most of the old evaps are still available). Did you get everything out of the engine box, too? If not you should go back and grab it, you'll need all of it. A complete system will be the easiest transplant, except for maybe the compressor if the mounting is radically different.


Unfortunately, I will need to buy a new evap. C'est la vie, $50 bucks. I only had a few minutes to spare before they start kicking people out of that junkyard. Literally everything else is in tact, wrapped in a complicated fashion (as is tradition lol) around a CA16 Engine (i think, DOHC for sure)
It kills me that I can't go tomorrow first thing in the morning, because I have to "work". Literally the only reason that I have to be at work is to check in two trucks that appear to show up whenever the fuck they feel like it. Nevertheless, driving around town in Ogden, Utah.... I know for sure I have the only running Sentra and or Pulsar. And AC systems, typically, aren't the first thing someone goes to grab on an antique car like that. As far as I know. 

Unless you're me. Lol


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Unfortunately, I will need to buy a new evap. C'est la vie, $50 bucks. I only had a few minutes to spare before they start kicking people out of that junkyard. Literally everything else is in tact, wrapped in a complicated fashion (as is tradition lol) around a CA16 Engine (i think, DOHC for sure)
> It kills me that I can't go tomorrow first thing in the morning, because I have to "work". Literally the only reason that I have to be at work is to check in two trucks that appear to show up whenever the fuck they feel like it. Nevertheless, driving around town in Ogden, Utah.... I know for sure I have the only running Sentra and or Pulsar. And AC systems, typically, aren't the first thing someone goes to grab on an antique car like that. As far as I know.
> 
> Unless you're me. Lol


As far as other non A/C parts are concerned, the center console looks interchangeable from Pulsar --> Sentra. @VStar650CL , know of any others? 
I'm clearly a dummy, because I can't find much on this topic. It's a decent car,


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> I'm clearly a dummy, because I can't find much on this topic. It's a decent car,


Nah, there's probably not much info on it because your earlier surmise was right, a lot more people probably rip the A/C out making their old Sentras into drifters and Sunday racers than try to install A/C. Plus there were probably kits still available for most of the car's life, and a kit is pretty self-explanatory.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Nah, there's probably not much info on it because your earlier surmise was right, a lot more people probably rip the A/C out making their old Sentras into drifters and Sunday racers than try to install A/C. Plus there were probably kits still available for most of the car's life, and a kit is pretty self-explanatory.


Yeah. I saw a thread on the N12 (?) Speedometer/ tach, so I know that's interchangeable. I emailed the junkyard last night before I went to bed, hopefully they are willing to give me the VIN number through email, but we shall see.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

JN1EN34S7HM004154


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sweet. I found the factory WD from Motor. If you want to post or PM me your email, I'll send you the PDF.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

NuevaGallinas said:


> As far as other non A/C parts are concerned, the center console looks interchangeable from Pulsar --> Sentra. @VStar650CL , know of any others?
> I'm clearly a dummy, because I can't find much on this topic. It's a decent car,


I have no input for you. I'm just following your progress. A very interesting and challenging project. When you successfully complete your project and get the system working, I can make this thread a "sticky" if you want.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

rogoman said:


> I have no input for you. I'm just following your progress. A very interesting and challenging project. When you successfully complete your project and get the system working, I can make this thread a "sticky" if you want.


I decided to offer my full help and support exactly because it's a challenge, and one that will teach readers a _lot_ of useful knowledge about HVAC systems by the time it's done. So positively, my thumb is up for an eventual sticky.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

By the way, for those looking on, some of you own or have owned cars just like the OP's, and I'm hardly the world's foremost expert on the old stuff. I do like stuff that works, and so will he. So if you see us doing something the hard way or just have a bright idea for getting around an obstacle, please put your two cents in! When eventually he gets to sit in a chill seat, everyone who contributed will have something to be proud of.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

rogoman said:


> I have no input for you. I'm just following your progress. A very interesting and challenging project. When you successfully complete your project and get the system working, I can make this thread a "sticky" if you want.


Absolutely.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Sweet. I found the factory WD from Motor. If you want to post or PM me your email, I'll send you the PDF.
> View attachment 7523


[email protected]
Also @VStar650CL , i think I may be in a bit of a bind.
I'm not sure if I mentioned, but the whole reason that car was in the junkyard at all would be fire damage or at least that's my best guess. I didn't notice till I got home, but the AC relay that kind of looks like a first gen Game Boy game... Is burned up pretty good, and the AC compressor connector appeared to have gotten caught in the serpentine belt, which may have been the Catalyst for the fire itself. I've purchased most everything required to take on such a growingly complicated task, I don't currently have it picture for the compressor because I haven't removed it yet, but I can post pictures of the component that I'm referring to.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Just sent you a PDF of the WD. That doesn't look like it started a fire, it's a power contact that developed resistance and heated the pins up enough to scorch the housing. We actually see a similar problem all the time with gen5 Altima window switches and gen1 Titan/Armada fuel pumps. In this case that's probably a blower motor power or ground pin, I'll have to look at the WD to identify it exactly. Vis the compressor, the fuse will usually blow and save those if the wire gets shorted. But if you don't see smoke-blackened parts in the engine box or under the dash, it was just a meltdown and not a fire. You'll need to do some interface re-wiring anyway, so I wouldn't worry too much about the blackened one, I can get you a mating set of 8-pin connector pigtails if you can't find something suitable in the JY.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

We'll be doing wiring last anyhow, so there's time to identify stuff that needs replacement or modification as we go. You'll want to manually test the compressor clutch first (just put 12V across it), but aside from that, the first task is get everything mechanically mounted; compressor, condenser, receiver/drier if it isn't on the condenser, evap, drive pulley if it needs one. Then comes a drive belt and plumbing, and last is electrical.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

For right now I'll need the VIN for your ride as well, so I can compare the two WD's and reconcile how we can rewire anything that differs.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Just sent you a PDF of the WD. That doesn't look like it started a fire, it's a power contact that developed resistance and heated the pins up enough to scorch the housing. We actually see a similar problem all the time with gen5 Altima window switches and gen1 Titan/Armada fuel pumps. In this case that's probably a blower motor power or ground pin, I'll have to look at the WD to identify it exactly. Vis the compressor, the fuse will usually blow and save those if the wire gets shorted. But if you don't see smoke-blackened parts in the engine box or under the dash, it was just a meltdown and not a fire. You'll need to do some interface re-wiring anyway, so I wouldn't worry too much about the blackened one, I can get you a mating set of 8-pin connector pigtails if you can't find something suitable in the JY.











I guess I forgot to take a picture of this. My initial thought was that the battery burned up because the relay box next to where the battery lives was definitely melted. Several components on that side I'm sure are toast, which happens to be where this Air Dryer lives. The bumper is still intact, which makes me think it wasn't a complete meltdown, but definitely not far away from it I would say. I think I already know the answer to this question, but I probably need a new air dryer and new pressure switch, right?


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> For right now I'll need the VIN for your ride as well, so I can compare the two WD's and reconcile how we can rewire anything that differs.


Jn1pb26s0hu003131


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Jn1pb26s0hu003131


JN1PB26S0HU003131
STUPID LOWER CASE🙄


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Okay, okay, STOP SHOUTING!  

If you look closely at the wires on the R/D, the protective sheath is what's burnt and not the insulation. So that circuit wasn't involved in the fire, and the damage is from the burned box next door. The switch is probably still good, but I'd replace it anyway. No point in risking a brand new hose exploding over an $18 part.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Okay, one more question. Is your ride FI or carbureted? It makes a difference to the A/C control system.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Never mind that last, I don't see differences in the docs. Just sent you revised WD's, I discovered Identifix was chopping the sides off the diagrams so I had to fiddle the output settings. The new copies show everything correctly. Will be going through it circuit by circuit, but it looks like the basic setup even uses the same wire colors. Only differences seem to be in the fusebox and the ISC/FICD solenoids, on your ride the computer drives them and on the computer-less Pulsar they drive straight off the A/C Switch. So most of the prewires should already be in your harness and already going to the right places.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Okay, one more question. Is your ride FI or carbureted? It makes a difference to the A/C control system.


Carb, manual 5spd (e16s)


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

The car I'm pulling from is fuel injected ca16 or 18 DOHC EFI. I really hope that doesn't matter anymore. Does it matter any at all? I hope not.... 😕


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

No, like I said, even the wire colors and hardware pinouts seem identical, so I don't think it will need much mix-and-match on the wiring. Right now I'm looking for an engine control diagram for yours, to see if it already has both FICD and ISC or whether one of those needs to be added with the A/C.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

This is looking really good from an electrical standpoint. NissanPartsDeal shows the FICD and ISC should both already be there, and the electrical hookups correspond wire-for-wire, even at the fusebox. Looks like your Pulsar was an _exactly_-right choice for the donor.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> This is looking really good from an electrical standpoint. NissanPartsDeal shows the FICD and ISC should both already be there, and the electrical hookups correspond wire-for-wire, even at the fusebox. Looks like your Pulsar was an _exactly_-right choice for the donor.


















I am DAMN SURE I got lucky 
How the feel does that even happen...?! 
And I got a raise yesterday too!?!!???


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Is there anything at all i should buy brand new, just because (drier, evap* definitely, etc?)
I think it's all OEM and Original****


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> And I got a raise yesterday too!?!!???


Congrats! 

That compressor connector seems salvageable, or at least the wire. Looks like it was just chafing on the pulley and not caught in the belt. That's good because those are steel conductors to resist heat, they can't be soldered and you can only repair them by crimping.



NuevaGallinas said:


> Is there anything at all i should buy brand new, just because (drier, evap* definitely, etc?)


We already know you'll need an evap, and you'll want to replace o-rings anyplace you find them in the plumbing. You'll also want new schrader cores in the service ports and some R12-to-R134a conversion fittings so you don't need to screw around finding and/or permitting R12. I'd blow some air through the condenser just to make sure there are no obvious leaks, but if there aren't any, use it as-is. When you get it all plumbed you'll want to get it vacuum-tested for leaks anyway, so if there are other problems they'll show up then.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Congrats!
> 
> That compressor connector seems salvageable, or at least the wire. Looks like it was just chafing on the pulley and not caught in the belt. That's good because those are steel conductors to resist heat, they can't be soldered and you can only repair them by crimping.
> 
> ...


And the OEM dryer.... Think it'll be okay, other than the roasted plug? 
Also...
On the pulsar, there was a pulley (tensioner...?) that has no accessory on it, mounted to the same bracket i bought (officially for no reason) on ebay. I grabbed it anyway... Was it necessary?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yah, all the parts diagrams show the pulley, so I presume it will be necessary for routing or tensioning the new drive belt.

The R/D wouldn't be hurt by any damage to the switch, but now that I'm thinking about it, the silica bag might well have been hurt by the heat. So if a new R/D isn't too expensive, replacing it is a good idea.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Not even kidding, i think it's less than 10 bucks








.....
And it is!


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sold!


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Oh, and they ripped me off on used, burnt up shit too. I'll take my money back, please and thank yooooooou! 
So, where to start.... Condenser cleaning and install. AC compressor & mounting bracket, cleaning and install. Don't have a belt or dryer yet, so that'll be later. I know for sure I'll have a whole lot of trouble with the belt, never ever had good luck with that lol. Will continue to post oodles of pictures. Like this of these sweet T-tops....
￼￼
(Wonder if this transplant is easy....?)


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> (Wonder if this transplant is easy....?)


Only with a whole pile of Sawzall blades.   

Yep, all the mechanical mountings need to come first.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

If I can pull off installing this AC without screwing anything else up, have money by the end of it, and if the donor is still there... I really really might do it. That would be too cool


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

So here we are. (Just ignore the speedometer that part will happen eventually). A/C suitcase from a 1987 Nissan NX or Pulsar. 4th of July weekend day two. _Readers discretion advised_
I swear. Get over it.
So the first thing I'm going to do on this bad boy is give it a good cleaning, this car is exactly as old as I am and it shows. Very dirty. I will be using Johnson and Johnson baby soap or shampoo or whatever it is diluted with a whole bunch of water. I have it left over from tinting windows and it's nice on the hands. If it's safe enough for babies safe enough for your car parts and for you. Anyways who gives a shit about that. 








Like I said, this thing is nasty so clean it. Remove any Electronics first, obviously.
So you will see that where I cut it out of frustration of not being able to remove it..... Don't do that. Obviously, the car is going to be taken apart so don't cut anything like I did. 50 bucks down the drain.








Obviously I'm going to have to wait for that part, as I did not order it in time due to my own financial shortcomings lol. Please note, junkyard charged me for the core even though it's damaged so they can have that back. Money spent so far 20 bucks plus or minus.























I am taking pictures of all these components with the part number is often as I possibly can throughout all this. Seeing as I found nothing online already done, I will be helping the next poor bastard that sweats too much when he drives a car that he loves.

More coming soon. Got to make breakfast.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

So the blower motor control module appears like it's seen better days, but I am going to not replace it, because it is $31 and all these parts are adding up rather quick. I am positive that my Google Motor Works so it might be I will replace it then.
27150-18E00 $31


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

This rubber piece of this a/c line is busted. Don't know if this is something that someone would replace, or if it is possible to repair. If I am replacing it, there's more money that I get back. Not that that's the goal of this whole thing but I dealt with those shiesty bastards for 3 days straight, and I can't wait to return a whole bunch of shit so I can get those t-tops 🤣🤣🤣


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Looks to be just the outer sheath that's cracked. That may still hold pressure if a replacement is pricey.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Looks to be just the outer sheath that's cracked. That may still hold pressure if a replacement is pricey.


Hey @VStar650CL , i know this is probably the wrong place for this, but i think im gonna install the instrument panel (tach) from the pulsar today. Do you have a wiring diagram from that? Going into my Sentra (no tach)


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That's likely to take some digging, but let me see what I can find.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Hopefully with those vin numbers it'll be easy. Or I can follow the maze of worms on the back, they appear to be labeled.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Top WD is the Pulsar, bottom is your Sentra. I'll email you copies of both, I'm posting them here for general consumption. Looks like the non-tach Sentra cluster (bottom in the Sentra WD) is missing the second connector and missing pins on the main connector, so you'll need to splice the Sentra harness wire-for-wire and function-by-function to the proper spots on the Pulsar connectors from the JY (hope you got those along with the cluster, or you'll be going back for them).


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Welllllll fuuuuuuuuuu*k


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Top WD is the Pulsar, bottom is your Sentra. I'll email you copies of both, I'm posting them here for general consumption. Looks like the non-tach Sentra cluster (bottom in the Sentra WD) is missing the second connector and missing pins on the main connector, so you'll need to splice the Sentra harness wire-for-wire and function-by-function to the proper spots on the Pulsar connectors from the JY (hope you got those along with the cluster, or you'll be going back for them).
> 
> View attachment 7545
> 
> ...


Yeah, different shape/size clusters. That's a no go. 😥


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

So......
Will post this weekend.... a little disappointed, not gonna lie. AC compressor clutch pulley and idler pulleys (both) are the wrong format (donor pulleys are serpentine, v pulleys on my e16s). Hunting down idler is easy, it's on rockauto.com ..... AC clutch assy for the 140s model comp is pretty much doa. Essentially, I'm pretty much in the same boat of being forced to overpay for an entire compressor, as AC clutch kits (v-belt drive or serpentine) are discontinued. Pretty bogus. Any help much appreciated ❤


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That totally bites, but I can't find anything available in the way of a clutch either. I think you're stuck buying a compressor.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> That totally bites, but I can't find anything available in the way of a clutch either. I think you're stuck buying a compressor.


Okay..... 
Ok.
So, maybe..... The main v-belt style pulley on the engine... Can it be replaced with a serpentine style front....?￼


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Hmmm. This might work.






1985 - 1988 Nissan Pulsar Sentra AC Compressor || TechChoice Parts


Remanufactured AC Compressor. 1985 - 1988 Nissan Pulsar Sentra: Nihon / Calsonic NVR140S - Single Groove Clutch.




www.techchoiceparts.com


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Hmmm. This might work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ugh, that kills me that it's that much... but yes, @VStar650CL that's exactly what I need. 
Maybe someone on here needs an A/C Compressor for a CA16DE (where it came from) ...?
Fuck, i can even run back to the scrap yard and get the mounting bracket for it if anyone wants it.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I put in a WTB in a few other places with a lot of old-timers, maybe somebody will have something in the back of their garage.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> I put in a WTB in a few other places with a lot of old-timers, maybe somebody will have something in the back of their garage.


That's super thoughtful, thank you! 
Also, I was able to source the idler pulley easily, but the mounting bolt for it... Not so much. Going to the JY in 30m, hopefully to source a speedometer cable from that 87 Pulsar CA16DE, maybe I can Source a mounting bolt (or even a pulley) from another random car that will work...? I wonder if automakers just stopped using the v-shaped belts at a certain point, or if they're still in use today? That way I know to look for any car before a certain year if I can narrow it down.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> I wonder if automakers just stopped using the v-shaped belts at a certain point, or if they're still in use today? That way I know to look for any car before a certain year if I can narrow it down.


You're most welcome. They don't use V-belts much anymore. From a design standpoint, serpentines are a lot less trouble than multiple pulleys with multiple tension mechanisms, plus they have more surface area for better grip on the pulley and don't "glaze" when they slip. Serps have all the advantages and very few drawbacks other than a tendency to "whip" wiring when they fail. Late 80's early '90's was right in the area where OE's started to switch over bigtime.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. They don't use V-belts much anymore. From a design standpoint, serpentines are a lot less trouble than multiple pulleys with multiple tension mechanisms, plus they have more surface area for better grip on the pulley and don't "glaze" when they slip. Serps have all the advantages and very few drawbacks other than a tendency to "whip" wiring when they fail. Late 80's early '90's was right in the area where OE's started to switch over bigtime.


Okay. Should I just change my crankshaft pulley to serp instead of v? If it's a possibility?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I suppose you could just swipe the whole shebang off the Pulsar engine if the hardware will all fit. I dunno if there were differences in the 16 block and crank vs the 16i.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> I suppose you could just swipe the whole shebang off the Pulsar engine if the hardware will all fit.


I kind of feel like going to be the cheapest option, with availability maybe even the only option. Truth be told, I didn't know that B12 stuff was that hard to find when I bought the beepbeep... I feel like I was in the same situation 7yrs ago, when I had a 79 B210, when I was on nissanforums.com and ratsun the 1st time lol... which is essentially a pre-sentra.... Sentra. Inline 4. I just pulled up, I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I know what the B210's were, I worked on plenty _way_ back when. I actually built one into a pocket racer for an old girlfriend, transplanted a 510 OHC into it instead of that 70 horse pushrodder and added a Garret turbo and a chopped independent rear. 'Bout the coolest Q-ship ever (provided you could keep the wheels on the ground, which wasn't easy when it came on the boost).

Anyway, we know the serpentine parts will be easier to find if anything breaks down. So yah, if the pulleys and any other necessary parts will transplant with little or no modification, I'd say that's the way to go.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Okay, I have an update. Can a crankshaft pulley off a ka24de fit a e16s....?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Okay, I have an update. Can a crankshaft pulley off a ka24de fit a e16s....?


That's not the kind of dimension anybody publishes, so unless one of the old-timers happens to know, I think it's gonna be a pull-and-measure.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You might check NissanPartsDeal with the two VINs and see if the front main seal is the same p/n for both engines. If so, there's a good chance the pulleys will swap.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You might check NissanPartsDeal with the two VINs and see if the front main seal is the same p/n for both engines. If so, there's a good chance the pulleys will swap.


Dude you're a genius thank you I'll look into that right away. It has the exact same AC compressor on it, but it's a really bad shape. I managed to find some sort of idler pulley (don't know if it'll work) from a Chevy Nova. I didn't really need it for the pulley itself more so the mounting bolt assembly. So either way I'm pretty close to having this figured out. I've definitely never pulled a crankshaft pulley off of a car though.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Dude you're a genius thank you I'll look into that right away. It has the exact same AC compressor on it, but it's a really bad shape. I managed to find some sort of idler pulley (don't know if it'll work) from a Chevy Nova. I didn't really need it for the pulley itself more so the mounting bolt assembly. So either way I'm pretty close to having this figured out. I've definitely never pulled a crankshaft pulley off of a car though.


Ca16 and KA24 seals do not fit an E16s. FFS.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It wouldn't work regardless of the seals. The KA engines have timing chains so it would go crank pulley, seal, timing gear. The E-series are timing belt engines, so it would go crank pulley, belt sprocket then seal. I also think the snout of the KA engine is a lot larger.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

smj999smj said:


> It wouldn't work regardless of the seals. The KA engines have timing chains so it would go crank pulley, seal, timing gear. The E-series are timing belt engines, so it would go crank pulley, belt sprocket then seal. I also think the snout of the KA engine is a lot larger.


Yeah, @smj999smj, on so many levels my A/C for cheap dreams are swiftly shitting the bed. The only thing standing in my way is the compressor. @VStar650CL helped me source a complete one for $150. Just blows that I have one (JY pull) with pulleys that are serpentine, and I need V-shaped.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Thanks for the input, Smj. You're way better with details on the old stuff than I am, the help is much appreciated. Do you happen to recall if the pulleys on those old kit compressors can be swapped once the clutch is pulled off? I never had many apart, I can't recall if they were screws or rivets. Maybe he can find a JY job with the right pulley off a different model and swap out the pulley?


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

VStar650CL said:


> Thanks for the input, Smj. You're way better with details on the old stuff than I am, the help is much appreciated. Do you happen to recall if the pulleys on those old kit compressors can be swapped once the clutch is pulled off? I never had many apart, I can't recall if they were screws or rivets. Maybe he can find a JY job with the right pulley off a different model and swap out the pulley?


"Were the compressors even the same?" is the question one would have to ask. If they were, they should be able to swap, but when you start dealing with parts from different years and different engines, I would tend to doubt that they were the same compressor model. I have a B11 E16S sitting in my driveway that I've been thinking of selling or junking. I believe I had an A/C system in crates, but I may have installed it on the engine. I'll have to take a look when I get a chance. 
NuevaGallinas: How far do you live from central Virginia (Zip code 23960)?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

smj999smj said:


> "Were the compressors even the same?" is the question one would have to ask. If they were, they should be able to swap, but when you start dealing with parts from different years and different engines, I would tend to doubt that they were the same compressor model. I have a B11 E16S sitting in my driveway that I've been thinking of selling or junking. I believe I had an A/C system in crates, but I may have installed it on the engine. I'll have to take a look when I get a chance. NuevaGallinas: How far do you live from central Virginia (Zip code 23960)?


He'd probably need to do fancy dancing with the plumbing anyway, so If you have a whole system crated, I'm sure that would be all but a Godsend.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

VStar650CL said:


> He'd probably need to do fancy dancing with the plumbing anyway, so If you have a whole system crated, I'm sure that would be all but a Godsend.


 Yeah, I have to sweep the pine needles off of it and shake the snakes out!


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

smj999smj said:


> Yeah, I have to sweep the pine needles off of it and shake the snakes out!


Anything that old which lacked pine needles would be plain un-American.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

smj999smj said:


> "Were the compressors even the same?" is the question one would have to ask. If they were, they should be able to swap, but when you start dealing with parts from different years and different engines, I would tend to doubt that they were the same compressor model. I have a B11 E16S sitting in my driveway that I've been thinking of selling or junking. I believe I had an A/C system in crates, but I may have installed it on the engine. I'll have to take a look when I get a chance.
> NuevaGallinas: How far do you live from central Virginia (Zip code 23960)?


Utah 84405.. hey can you contact me? I have a question about a post someone made for a compressor, a dude is trying to sell me one for 90 but it seems sketchy.... 6823198214


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Utah 84405.. hey can you contact me? I have a question about a post someone made for a compressor, a dude is trying to sell me one for 90 but it seems sketchy.... 6823198214


I'm usually sleeping during the days and working nights at a prison. You're better off just sending me a PM, or email me at [email protected].


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Okay friends at Nissanforums, @VStar650CL, @smj999smj.... I'm back.

No word from the f**** that got me for my money.... Paid money again to a reputable source and actually received my part. V style pulley for ac clutch still too big, had to alter compressor mounting bracket. Not too bad, by about 4-5mm (only needed 1-2mm grinded, but just for good measure i did a touch more)
Mount fits car. I guess where I'm at now I was trying to find a adapter fitting for r12 to 134a. Body kit from amazon. The low side fit pretty well, but the OEM high side was way too small of threading. Anyone happen to know what size that is? This is what I bought:








Again, low side fits and high side doesn't. Either fitting fits OEM low side (7/16), neither fits high(?)

What size do I need?


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Rockauto shows a Four Seasons # 59977 high-side, 1/4-inch, A/C service port retrofit adapter:





__





More Information for FOUR SEASONS 59977






www.rockauto.com


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Right. So I have a similar product from Amazon, one fit on the service port closest to the firewall low side, but the other fitting did not and it says that they're both the same size, or am I wrong?
The retrofit part i bought that actually screws on is the same size on both, see pic.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

This adapter kit is used to convert a manifold gauge set fittings to use R134 quick connect hoses; does your manifold gauge set use the quick connect hoses? Here's what you need for the charge ports on the AC system:




__





Heat & Air Conditioning Retro Fitting Retro Fitting Valve Parts | RockAuto


RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



www.rockauto.com


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

rogoman said:


> This adapter kit is used to convert a manifold gauge set fittings to use R134 quick connect hoses; does your manifold gauge set use the quick connect hoses? Here's what you need for the charge ports on the AC system:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Obviously my first time messing with A/C ever. 
@rogoman,








I also have this part, but where these 2 bolts are on the top, one of them had a high pressure cut off switch of some sort... Just unscrew one and put it on, or no?


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

It looked something like this btw:


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That's the receiver/drier, the pressure triple switch will go in the hole on top of it. One of the nipples should plumb to the condenser, the other to the high-side hose going to the firewall.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

The hole on top is actually a glass viewing window.. the two threaded guys i have figured out, but there's still the two bolts (north and south) and the old safety switch bolted into one of the two. I haven't tried to unscrew these, should I?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Forgot about those old sight-glasses lol. The triple switch definitely has to go someplace at the R/D, so if it has a tee then yes, plumb into that. Look at the diagram from HA-18 in the SM that you posted back on page 2. Your setup has to approximate that.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Yes I see.... 
You know what though, unfortunately, I never did remove fusible plug "a" (shown above, HA-18) from the old overpriced OEM drier.... So that blows. 
My attention to detail got tossed to the wayside along with that critical, potentially impossible to find plug.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

They make fusible plugs for boilers and we know the blowoff temperature from the diagram, so google around and try to find a boiler plug with the same temperature and thread size. If you can't match the thread, it would be okay to use a bushing or coupler in between.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Come to think of it, you could also substitute a traditional AC overpressure blowoff if you can find one that fits in a hole on the compressor side. It won't matter if the blowoff uses pressure or temperature, the function is the same, but a pressure blowoff needs to be located in a different place in between the compressor and condenser..


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Yeah in the generic image, 5 images up, that fancy retrofit kit has a new dual pressure switch, adapter for the high side that has the port for the switch on top, but doesn't appear to have its own fusible plug either.


----------



## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Come to think of it, you could also substitute a traditional AC overpressure blowoff if you can find one that fits in a hole on the compressor side. It won't matter if the blowoff uses pressure or temperature, the function is the same, but a pressure blowoff needs to be located in a different place in between the compressor and condenser..


So like.... Compressor side, going toward the condenser... You know, if you have a moment to spare, since I've been dying to do it anyways, I can install all those parts real quick and ask my question about where exactly if I don't end up answering it myself first of course lol.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> So like.... Compressor side, going toward the condenser


Correct. Modern systems almost never use fusible plugs, they have a pressure blowoff either in the compressor body or incorporated into the high-side hose between the compressor and condenser. But there are some with external blowoffs, maybe you can find one to fit someplace on the compressor side. I'd look for a boiler plug first, that won't require much (or maybe any) adaptation.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Also, while I am putting on all these parts I am going to document because why the hell not may help somebody. It's the right thing to do, lol.








Compressor mounting bracket, b12 Sentra e16s part number 11910-50A10








Here's another view (someone installed an engine warmer, if anyone is wondering wtf is that with the tag..?)








Bracket to mount (pic above) AC low side line, evap line (not yet installed) to condenser (below)
















This evap assembly, located in side of the car passenger side, is the housing itself that resembles a cat box part number 27270-60A01, the evaporator, the thermostat (pic below) some sort of doodad that controls the blower motor 27150-13E00 and a couple other elec components I'm supposed to hook up 36542-65820, Hitachi p/n AFI98-05 (6YL 595166). That'll be another time. Might i add, on








the mating edges of your cat box, there will be some flat type weather stripping of some sort, which you can buy on the Amazon for quite cheap that auto work quite well in this application. Seeing as I used some for my popout windows, I will include that pic as well. Very slim, very insulating.








SO.
Now on to the AC compressor. The notorious impossible to find AC compressor that has given me grief for about a month straight. Probably more now, maybe. Unnecessary grief because of some piece of shit that scammed me that is now blocked from our beautiful community. Remanufactured, part number 57441, oil 7 oz serial number 5155E0S. (Below)
_PSA*BE*AWARE*OF*SCAMMERS*_ 
_Timada126, suck a dick_








Now, let's again go back to the mount. Even with the old compressor, it did not fit only because of the pulley touching the frame of it. I thought it was the serpentine style pulley design, seeing as I yanked the previous one from a ca18e (?) pulsar. This problem also occurs with this V-Belt style AC clutch, but seeing as it was seriously one or two millimeters of discrepancy, I simply grinded it off a little bit (below, right middle side) aka the shiny part of mount, not the pulley.








Also included as an accidental money shot of the idler pulling lining up with the crankshaft pulley I guess is what you would call it? Either way, this part weighed about 20 lb acc. to UPS, so it's a touch difficult but you will want to go from underneath the car to install it. At this point I still have not jacked my car up I don't see it necessary but you do you.
Bear with me, I lost a bolt that secures the AC compressor to the mount.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

If you're kind of a skinny dude, all this dense lifting can be a little tiresome. When I did was I started from the bottom, that way it has its horizontal surface to rest on. I am skinny, but I ain't no bitch. Work smarter not harder folks. The bolts on the top use a 14 mm, bottom are 16-17mm. All four of our accessible from still laying on the ground underneath the car except for the top left Bolt you won't be able to seeI don't have a 16 mm socket so I wouldn't know. Again commenting on having to grind down that corner of the mount, it's not that this compressor doesn't belong in here, it's the pulley I'm sure. But you will find out that the holes where they bolt on can be almost worked by finger tightening it fits so well so I know for sure it goes on there.








Obviously now that you're close to having everything mounted and where you want it with the exception of the belt that I don't have on hand, then and only then do you remove the protective plate and rubber gasket on where the high and low side hoses will mount (if you are not ready for them don't take the plate off)
Stay clean like there's still no cure for covid. Wash your hands don't let metal greasy bits of bullshit from your hands transfer to anything internal on this project. Also, I am dry fitting everything except for the mount and compressor bolts, once I see everything fits pretty decent I will use blue Loctite, unless someone corrects me first LOL


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

I would also like to add that if you are planning to charge this thing yourself, keeping your hands and whatever clean is still a good idea. I'm going to get it done professionally because I've spent too much money and time to fuck it up because of something stupid. And if there is debris or extraneous bullshit in there I would like for them to take care of it.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Again with a 14 mm socket wrench you have been using periodically throughout this project, loosen the low side block off plate that is used for shipping I guess. If you're into it you can probably reuse this plate to make a EGR block off or whatever if you think that it'll fit.























Matter of fact, it looks like it will fit so well that I wish I had done AC first and then removed my EGR LOL.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

On the entire process you will be using a set of brand new o-rings you can get on RockAuto for super cheap








You can keep the bag later if you need to sell weed to someone in a hurry or whatever I don't know what else you would use a bag that small for. If you remove any o-ring from the previous original install from the donor car, immediately replace it with a new one so you don't forget about it and you know what size it is... I took them all off during cleaning like a dummy so I guess I'll have to roll with it.








Now, the good people at the remanufacturing place gave short bolts so you'll need to remember to keep the ones you got from the donor car.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> And if there is debris or extraneous bullshit in there I would like for them to take care of it.


Be careful with debris, evacuation won't remove it. Evac only purges water/moisture from the system. Tape everything off that's open, because "taking care of" debris means disassembly.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

The original bolt size for the compressor line mounting was 12 mm so that socket will instead be used. May I also add that getting it on there is a total bitch, be patient while installing bc these are aluminum lines. Super lightweight, super soft, super brittle. I know this is probably overkill on attention to detail documenting those but maybe someone out there doesn't know these things. 
So now I have to solve a problem involving these silly yet cool looking headers I installed on my car that came from a SR20DE (?) , 2002-2006 Sentra, if I'm not mistaken. 
***Skip if you don't care***Made a series of three adapter plates out of pretty thick stainless, with fluted ports that provide progression. Based on the holes of where the previous one mounted and also using the brand new gaskets that would mount it. 
















@smj999smj, wonder if at this point maybe I should alter/bend the compressor low side hose? May lean more towards alter just to allow it to clear, push it back to where that first bend begins perhaps?


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> The original bolt size for the compressor line mounting was 12 mm so that socket will instead be used. May I also add that getting it on there is a total bitch, be patient while installing bc these are aluminum lines. Super lightweight, super soft, super brittle. I know this is probably overkill on attention to detail documenting those but maybe someone out there doesn't know these things.
> So now I have to solve a problem involving these silly yet cool looking headers I installed on my car that came from a SR20DE (?) , 2002-2006 Sentra, if I'm not mistaken.
> ***Skip if you don't care***Made a series of three adapter plates out of pretty thick stainless, with fluted ports that provide progression. Based on the holes of where the previous one mounted and also using the brand new gaskets that would mount it.
> View attachment 7653
> ...


Also I can no longer continue, pending the aforementioned alteration I need to make. Part will not bolt on completely due to space restrictions.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Be careful with debris, evacuation won't remove it. Evac only purges water/moisture from the system. Tape everything off that's open, because "taking care of" debris means disassembly.


Off, weak.
See what I mean folks? Got to ask a professional ❤


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Correct. Modern systems almost never use fusible plugs, they have a pressure blowoff either in the compressor body or incorporated into the high-side hose between the compressor and condenser. But there are some with external blowoffs, maybe you can find one to fit someplace on the compressor side. I'd look for a boiler plug first, that won't require much (or maybe any) adaptation.











This tube portion, pictured on the left side?


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Devastating news. The AC tubing that screws onto the condenser side and connects to the compressor is either misplaced, or worse, drove off with it still in the engine bay sometime ago. Don't even know the last time I've seen it. So it goes here. Left of the wiper fluid reservoir and the other block off plate picture to the very bottom of the image.








I'm sure it'll show up. Either way, also in question is the receiver dryer, now hooked up.








If you did buy one at a junkyard and it was more than 6 bucks, return if they accept returns. Before doing that remove all connections from the receiver dryer. There is a fusible plug on it that I left on the old one on accident, and a dual pressure switch that i kept. P/N # 34280-65794








Seeing as this device, shown in the picture above, was part of what was involved in the engine fire that took place in the donor car, I'll probably replace this too but it's nice to have a reference for your OEM replacement. 
It's late july, things are starting to cool off here in the state of Utah, but not much it's still pretty hot. However with the recent findings of this and unfortunate developments in general, it's looking pretty bleak to have a working AC in time.
By the time I theoretically have this figured out, it'll probably be time to use the heater instead.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> This tube portion, pictured on the left side?


Can't tell from the pic, but it needs to be somewhere on the pressure (high-side) hose coming directly out of the compressor.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

Update: simply misplaced. My wife found it.








Now toss on your o-ring and try to throw that bitch on there. I "was" thinking that possibly the tubing from the 87 pulsar that had the ca16 on it could very well be different from that of a e16s.
*****
But no....
I just tried to mount the aforementioned prodigal son (high side AC tubing) and once again, the downpipe from the custom headers interfere with assembly. 
The wet dream of automotive air conditioning has become the ultimate letdown, yet again 

The "Oasis". The holy grail is disappearing like a fart in the wind 

The unfortunate folley that sometimes occurs with custom fabbing something from one car to fit into yours. Seeing as those headers went on months before I ever even thought of installing air conditioning. I can't say it's completely my fault, or a complete failure. After all, there aren't many b12 e16s with MF'n headers out there that Ive seen.

But how to fix it? There is a welding product out there that uses an oxyacetylene torch to heat the aluminum product and a welding stick simultaneously, apply this silver shit to it with your hot welding stick and voila! Repair complete. Not asimilar to soldering, almost. That being said, if I gave myself between one and two inches on both pieces of tubing that mate to the compressor, it will fit.
Option B: scavenge the JY. I don't know how unique those weird looking mounting blocks on the tubing are, sooo... .
I'm going to go with option A: alteration. 
Don't get paid for 5 days so.... This'll be on hold until then. Everyone experiences defeat, people only remember you by how you react to it. 

Peace out gear heads, wrench turners, grease monkeys, and desperate A/C-less B12 owners.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

NuevaGallinas said:


> Update: simply misplaced. My wife found it.
> View attachment 7659
> 
> Now toss on your o-ring and try to throw that bitch on there. I "was" thinking that possibly the tubing from the 87 pulsar that had the ca16 on it could very well be different from that of a e16s.
> ...


@VStar650CL this piece at the top of this manifesto is the one. Since I am highly likely to alter it to work around my custom headers anyways, the device that you were talking about will probably fit there, yes?


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

@smj999smj, is altering the low and high-side A/C tubing to fit recommended?
My headers are in the way of a direct fit... Only needs about 22mm 
(Will safely bend using right tools or trimming back and welding) 
Thanks in advance.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

NuevaGallinas said:


> @VStar650CL this piece at the top of this manifesto is the one. Since I am highly likely to alter it to work around my custom headers anyways, the device that you were talking about will probably fit there, yes?


Yep, that looks like the compressor outlet hose. If you want to put in a modification for a pressure blowoff, that's the place to put it.


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yep, that looks like the compressor outlet hose. If you want to put in a modification for a pressure blowoff, that's the place to put it.


Sick, thanks


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do!


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## NuevaGallinas (Mar 26, 2021)

[/QUOTE]


VStar650CL said:


> Yep, that looks like the compressor outlet hose. If you want to put in a modification for a pressure blowoff, that's the place to put it.


@VStar650CL , you think you could post a pic of the pressure blowoff mod you are referring to? I'm just a touch unsure...


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

No, like I said, most of them are built into the compressor. But they all work at about the same blowoff pressure, so anything you can find from just about any make or model could be adapted. You probably want to google something like "AC pressure relief valve". If you can't find anything I'll do some searching for you tomorrow, almost my bedtime right now.


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