# Best oil AND filter for my 03



## Xourque (Mar 28, 2007)

Hey guys!

As I have said before, I am completely new to my 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE. And as such, I have no idea what the best brand of oil (and type) and oil filter I should use.

In my 1998 GMC Jimmy, I was using Mobile 1 7500 (synthetic blend) and a K&N oil filter. That seemed to be an outstanding combination.

Since my Pathfinder has 45,000 miles on it and has had regular oil changes (conventional oil), I have been considering going FULLY synthetic. So I need your guys' opinion:

If I were to go fully synthetic, what oil brand should I go for? What oil filter should I get? I will assume that Mobile 1 synthetic and a K&N oil filter will do.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!


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## 2001pathy_SE (Apr 9, 2006)

Xourque said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> As I have said before, I am completely new to my 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE. And as such, I have no idea what the best brand of oil (and type) and oil filter I should use.
> 
> ...


i go with the new mobil 1 fully synthetic the one you're supposed to change after 15,000 miles, but i change it between 5-6000 miles. i use a k&n oil filter or mobil 1 or nissan. you'll be fine switching over to fully synthetic.


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## supraholic (Nov 21, 2005)

I would stick with nissan filter.. mobil-1 filter, or k&n filter is waste of money. Regular Puralator is almost as good as nissan.


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## 2001pathy_SE (Apr 9, 2006)

supraholic said:


> I would stick with nissan filter.. mobil-1 filter, or k&n filter is waste of money. Regular Puralator is almost as good as nissan.



why is regular puralator almost as good as nissan , but mobil 1 and k&n a waste of money?


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## supraholic (Nov 21, 2005)

2001pathy_SE said:


> why is regular puralator almost as good as nissan , but mobil 1 and k&n a waste of money?


one source..
Engine Oil Filter Study

Mobil 1 and K&N do not seem to give the added benefit for what they cost.. they are not bad filters. Champion labs make Mobil-1.. Champion labs make a lot of OEM filters too..


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## Xourque (Mar 28, 2007)

OK - then I am going to purchase a bunch of Mobile 1 synthetic and a K&N oil filter. I will update all of you what I think after 3,000 miles!


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## 2001pathy_SE (Apr 9, 2006)

Xourque said:


> OK - then I am going to purchase a bunch of Mobile 1 synthetic and a K&N oil filter. I will update all of you what I think after 3,000 miles!



dont change it after 3,000 miles. thats a waste of money. might as well throw your money out the window. just send it to me : )


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## Xourque (Mar 28, 2007)

2001pathy_SE said:


> dont change it after 3,000 miles. thats a waste of money. might as well throw your money out the window. just send it to me : )


Naw, what I meant was that after 3,000 miles I should have formed an opinion as to whether it was a beneficial change or not. I will NOT be changing it then.

:idhitit:


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## 2001pathy_SE (Apr 9, 2006)

Xourque said:


> Naw, what I meant was that after 3,000 miles I should have formed an opinion as to whether it was a beneficial change or not. I will NOT be changing it then.
> 
> :idhitit:



how do you think you will come to that conclusion? check the color of the oil?


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## Xourque (Mar 28, 2007)

2001pathy_SE said:


> how do you think you will come to that conclusion? check the color of the oil?


NO!! I plan on tasting it......


WHAT DO YOU THINK!!


Fuel economy
Performance
Oil Consumption


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## LittleStevie (Sep 27, 2006)

What is going to be your basis for forming an opinion? Laboratory analysis, I hope. Filter performance is not something you can just get a feel for by running your fingers through the oil.

In that case you'll need to make several runs with different filters and OCI's. I recommend Blackstone Labs, but you'll to pay extra for the particle count tests. We'd all appreciate you posting the results when you're through.


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## LittleStevie (Sep 27, 2006)

We were both writing posts at the same time, apparently. Unfortunately the filter has very little effect on the three indicators you mention. The filter is there for removing particulates, that's it. It has no effect on lubricity or viscosity.


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## LittleStevie (Sep 27, 2006)

By the way, to answer the original post, I'm sold on Mobil 1 full synthetic. I would not waste your money on a K&N. Although nice for high flow applications like racing, (I've heard) the K&N has lower collection efficiency and is not as good for particle filtration. That is, not as good as protecting the engine. I'll stick with genuine Nissan filters, at least until my warranty is up.


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## Xourque (Mar 28, 2007)

LittleStevie said:


> By the way, to answer the original post, I'm sold on Mobil 1 full synthetic. I would not waste your money on a K&N. Although nice for high flow applications like racing, (I've heard) the K&N has lower collection efficiency and is not as good for particle filtration. That is, not as good as protecting the engine. I'll stick with genuine Nissan filters, at least until my warranty is up.



Since I do not have the equipment or education to form an accurate analysis of the oil filter specifically, I will just go with one of the premium brand filters (K&N or Mobile 1).

But I definitely will be measuring fuel economy and engine performance! Right now I get 19mpg on the freeway (65mph with cruise control on, with minimal hills). We'll see if that changes over the next few months!

And then of course, I will be tasting it to see how good it is after a bit........ :banana:


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## NPath (Dec 12, 2004)

Xourque said:


> Since I do not have the equipment or education to form an accurate analysis of the oil filter specifically, I will just go with one of the premium brand filters (K&N or Mobile 1).


I would consider Napa oil (gold series?) or Purolator oil filters. I've gotten the 2 same opinions from an avid engine performance freak and auto parts/accessories supplier. Both also said to stay away from Fram and K&N, because they don't filter as well. 

I'd also suggest finding a big magnet and placing it on top of the oil filter.


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## dirtdog (Jun 20, 2006)

2001pathy_SE said:


> i go with the new mobil 1 fully synthetic the one you're supposed to change after 15,000 miles, but i change it between 5-6000 miles. i use a k&n oil filter or mobil 1 or nissan. you'll be fine switching over to fully synthetic.


At 30.00 per 5 quarts that is nuts IMO.

Use any name brand oil and you will be oil.


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## 2001pathy_SE (Apr 9, 2006)

dirtdog said:


> At 30.00 per 5 quarts that is nuts IMO.
> 
> Use any name brand oil and you will be oil.



not nuts at all. on top of that i go twice as long in between oil changes compared to the reg 3,000 miles. so i'm saving money with better protection.


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## LittleStevie (Sep 27, 2006)

dirtdog said:


> At 30.00 per 5 quarts that is nuts IMO.
> 
> Use any name brand oil and you will be oil.


Oil is not oil. The little extra $ for [true] synthetic oils is worth it. On the other hand, I am not sold on the Mobil "Extended Performance" line, as I see it as a marketing ploy. I go 6k miles on Mobil 1 10W-30. I ran my oil from 10k to 16k miles before sending my sample for analysis - wear metals were good, TBN was ~ 3, indicating the additive package was still in force.


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## dirtdog (Jun 20, 2006)

Both me and you know that a dino oil will go 5-6000 miles easy.

Heck the old dino oils would go 7500 with the manufacturers blessing.

When I change out my oil at 3000, I don't need an analysis to know it could go farther.

I do mine at 5-6000 with any conventional oil and have had Jeeps run 200,000 plus no problems

Have also ran a fleet of cars with bulk oil ( anything that was on sale) and all the vehicles when sold had mileage at or near 200,000 miles. The bodies were trashed though and when the junkyards that bought them ran compression tests on the engine they said every vehicle was like new as far as engine wear and compression tests.

Synthetic oils have all changed and are using regular oils as their base stock ... Mobil 1 Extended has more dino oils in it as a base stock to make it able to extend its change interval .

There are few truly full synthetic oils anymore ?

So if a person chooses to pay 3 times the amount of money for the "mystical" protection of a semi synthetic oil thats cool, just as some think high test gasoline is a better fuel ?


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## bryfry (May 19, 2007)

For what it's worth, I use Amsoil and WIX, Fram, Nissan, etc. filters. All top brand filters conform to OE specs so I'll use whatever. They never stay on the engine longer than 5k miles anyway, so it's not a huge issue. I change my oil every 10k miles. At 5k I change the filter and top off. I've been doing this for twenty years without a mechanical failure. I started off using Mobil 1, than switched to Amsoil a bit over ten years ago.

BTW, NAPA filters are basically a WIX (both first and second line). I've been selling Fram forever and never had a problem.

It's all relative to what you feel is right. You can get twenty people to give you twenty different answers, and all of them have a bit of validity to them.

As far as I'm concerned, _any_ synthetic is a wise choice. Same goes for synthetic transmission ATF, gear lube, and greases. I use all of them and have little to no mechanical probems.


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## LittleStevie (Sep 27, 2006)

There's no denying that synthetic oils are a better choice in terms of lubricity and resistance to thermal/oxidative breakdown. If you feel that conventional oils offer what you need, then go for it. I agree that conventional oils can go a lot further than oil manufacturers and automotive shops want you to think, but when you start pushing the limits the oil analysis is the only thing you have to say whether the oil is handling the extended interval in that particular engine with a particular driving profile.

I also agree, you do have to be careful not to get a Group III (which some can legally call a "synthetic", i.e. Castrol) vs. a true Group IV base stock.

BTW, the incremental cost for synthetic is not 3x, it's more like 1.5x-2x. When you think about it, that's about $8 an oil change, or $16 a year. In those figures, it's a no brainer to go synthetic when you're dealing with a $30,000 vehicle.


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