# Tips on new brake lines for B14



## netsatwork (Jan 2, 2003)

I'm going to be installing Goodrich SS brake lines, Powerslot rotors, and Hawk pads on the front and rear of my 99 Sentra SE-L this weekend. Anyone have any tips for me? I am mainly looking for any tips with the brake lines. Thanks.


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## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

Use line wrenches? The nuts are soft and very easy to strip...


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

aren't the ss lines on backorder???


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## netsatwork (Jan 2, 2003)

I don't think they are. I having a problem with my first set leaking at the main line and they are supposed to be sending me a new set in 3-4 days. 

By the way, the line wrench is a good idea. After doing the job, you definitely need a 10mm flare nut wrench. I bought it at Advance Auto Parts with the other brake tools. It's a pack of 3 wrenches for $9.99. A straight wrench will not get it without stripping.

I'm not sure what happened with this first set. I assume the longer lines were for the rear, but I am getting leaks at all four wheels. Supposedly the flare nut does not need to be too tight, but I am having no luck. Hopefully it is a bad set of lines and not my flare nuts that are bad. Any tips on replacing the nuts if they are bad?


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## netsatwork (Jan 2, 2003)

It turned out the brake lines I got from Goodridge were the wrong type. The inside of the SS line where it connects to the main line was concave instead of convex. I am supposed to be getting new lines from Goodridge. We'll see if they are correct. Be sure to check your old lines and new ones before you try replacing them.


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## kieranlavin (May 6, 2002)

netsatwork said:


> *I'm going to be installing Goodrich SS brake lines, Powerslot rotors, and Hawk pads on the front and rear of my 99 Sentra SE-L this weekend. Anyone have any tips for me? I am mainly looking for any tips with the brake lines. Thanks. *


Aside from what's already been posted about the line wrench, open your master cylinder and put saranwrap over it and then tighten the cap back on. This will (should) create a vacuum so that you can change the lines without too much fluid leaking out from your caliper. Even if none comes out, it's still a good idea to bleed the brakes afterward. Get the car up on all fours too... a lot easier than doing a corner or a side at a time! Also, if you're replacing your pads, make sure you have a c-clamp or channel locks to compress your piston in the caliper back to accomodate for the larger/thicker new pads


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## kieranlavin (May 6, 2002)

netsatwork said:


> *Any tips on replacing the nuts if they are bad? *


I stripped mine a while back and ordered a new set from the dealer. I don't think it was too expensive (for a dealer). The PITA though is keeping the vacuum while replacing them and then re-bleeding your system. Good luck


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

uh, doesn't the rear calipers, because of the parking brake, the pistons need to be turned without destroying the seal to settle it in, a screw-in type, not clamped with gigantic channel locks....or c-clamps......


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## kieranlavin (May 6, 2002)

azkicker0027 said:


> *uh, doesn't the rear calipers, because of the parking brake, the pistons need to be turned without destroying the seal to settle it in, a screw-in type, not clamped with gigantic channel locks....or c-clamps...... *


Correct... I should've specified. For the fronts, the channel locks work. For the rears, you'll need a special Nissan tool or (much easier!) a pair of needlenose pliers to twist the piston back in


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