# turbo 1.6



## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

hey guys was thinking doing a 1.6deT. was wondering what all i would have to get inorder to do this. i know there a kit you can buy off prostreetonline.com but the kit has nothing with injectors or anything and some ppl say you have to upgrade those and the fuel pump. what i was wondering was what all would i need to do this beside buying the kit. i know there alot of you out there with the 1.6 turbo so please tell me. thanks


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

the kit on it's own will run on stock injectors and pump, but you should upgrad to the walbro 255LPH pump, so that you're not stressing it.

the easiest thing so that you're running the system without stressing it out, is use SR20DE injectors (279cc) and an SR20DE ecu. blown b310 pioneered this, and it's now been used successfully with that kit on its own without any other tuning at base boost (6psi), and also by others using a bigger turbo and FMIC with the boost turned up. the sr20 injectors and ecu are capable of handling 12psi without any tuning, and 12psi on the GA16DE is a lot. beyondbiscuits2 described it as scary, but that was in his b12 sentra, so it's a little bit more of a thrill (lighter, more rattly car).

your exhaust should be up'd to a full 2" exhaust. maybe 2.25" if you plan on boosting higher.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

thanks but as i recall the ecu from the sr wont hook up to my harness..injectors will. also what about like exhaust i have a 2.5 full cat-back, but like down pipe and should i just buy a header and make a manifold.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

also like what all parts would i need ill start a list and yall can add whatever you think ill need.

1.intercooler/and piping
2.boost controller/ and gauge
3.turbo
4.manifold
5.fuel pump walbro 255
6.injectors sr20de(279cc)
7.wastegate
8.what else


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

you use the ECU and harness... if you use the search button, you can find blownb310's info. it's doable, and it's the easiest and most cost effective ecu/injector upgrade.

you can buy the turbo specialties manifold separately from one site if you want to go with a bigger turbo. a T25 will bolt up the the flange without an adapter. add a turbo timer to the list. super handy, so you don't have to worry about turning off your car without cooling off the turbo. if you use the search tool, there's tons of info on this stuff. look in the GA16DE subform, not the b14 forum. also try the b13 forum, there's a bit more there too.

there you can find the info on using sr20 ecu/harness/injectors, as most of the people who have done it have done in in swapped in GA16de's into b12's.


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

What kind of car are you putting it on. If its a 95-99 the sr20 ecu swap won't work. If you buy the kit you don't need anything extra other than exhaust. You don't NEED the fuel pump although it would help. I have run the kit on my daily driver for over a year now without the better pump. The stock ECU and maf with the t20 turbo is good for about 10lbs. (a little more depending on how ghetto you wanna go, potentiometers on the maf and other horrible ideas like that). If you have a decent amount of experience with turbos you can piece together a little better kit for only a little more money, but if it's your first real project or you are unsure of turbo setups the kit is a great starter.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

ya i know the kit is a great starter but to much money for my budget. i already have a intercooler and about to get either a t20 or a t25. i have a guy who will make my manifold. its going on a 97 nissan 200sx. i was thinking of going with the stock sr20de injectors and welbro fuel pump. what i was wondering tho was what all would i need to just get it running everyday and later add like a turbo timer and all that good stuff. make me a list please..lol... i have a bunch of friends with the sr swaps in 240sx's so they know about turbos. also would the ecu for the 1.6 let the injectors for a sr work and are the injectors for the sr20de interchangeable with the ones on a ga16


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

1. Injectors are not Interchangeable, if you use any kind of injector other than stock you would need an ecu retune or a piggyback controller (apex'i s-afc).

2. If you have a choice get the t-25, better turbo.


3. Turbo Timer: not a necessity, but you will need to let your car idle for a couple minutes after driving to prevent you oil from coking.

4. List:
to get started no more than 8lbs
Manifold
Turbo
Oil Lines
Water Lines
Intercooler
Piping
Exhaust (turbo back)
Blow off or recirculate valve

More than 8lbs
bigger injectors
bigger Maf
Retuned Ecu of some sort
Heavy Duty clutch
Turbo Timer
I think that's pretty much it.


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## sinning (Mar 28, 2008)

Im not too familiar with the turbos on the ga16de but make sure that your car can handle it ive seen people break their motors doing stupid things and 8psi is good dont go above that enjoy your project.


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

8psi is enough boost to make your 200 a very fun daily driver for sure.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

do u know where i can just buy a manifold. also what kind of flange does the t20 take.


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

you can buy the tsi manifold separate from the kit, but I'm not sure where from. The t-20 with the tsi kit uses a t-25 flange, but I'm not sure about others. If your piecing your kit together t-25 or even t-28 is the way to go. I am trying to become a dealer for tsi, so hopefully soon I can start selling manifolds and kits myself. If I do I'll let you know on manifold.


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

akexnads said:


> you can buy the tsi manifold separate from the kit, but I'm not sure where from. The t-20 with the tsi kit uses a t-25 flange, but I'm not sure about others. If your piecing your kit together t-25 or even t-28 is the way to go. I am trying to become a dealer for tsi, so hopefully soon I can start selling manifolds and kits myself. If I do I'll let you know on manifold.


i went looking for the site today and found it! the manifold fits the t20, t25 (and BB), t28, and t28RS without modification.

here it is. a direct link to the manifold.
GA16DE turbo manifold

that's the manifold i'll be using. and yeah, you can't use the SR20 ECU/Harness switch. pick up EManage on ebay. they're getting cheap as Greddy has gone bankrupt.

Here's a thought though. if you notice, the QG18DE and GA16DE manifold appear to be the same part. the TSI QG18DE kit comes with the choice of the T25 OR T25BB. does that mean we could opt for the QG18DE kit to get everything pre assembled with the bigger turbo??? cuz frig, that would save me time and possibly money.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

well today i bought my turbo. its a 14b off a 98 eclipse. getting a manifold made for 150.00. intercooler is mounted. piping is ordered. my question is this, where can i get cheap oil lines. and where do i tap in for the water lines on the 1.6 motor. also can i tap into the oil pan on the 1.6. and another question, which blow off would be good for this turbo, my buddy was telling me that because the blowoff on nissans are after the MAF that your car will act like its stauling out and youll boost lag with these cheap BOV after every shift. i was thinking of using the 1g talon BOV. ill keep everyone posted of my project.


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

Gundam:


One I believe if you contact them about the kit they will sell the ga16 kit with a t-25bb for a little more money. Also if you are going to use a e-manage than you have no need for a sr20 ecu. Word of warning I wouldn't go with the e-manage unless you are very familiar with your cars electrical system, it's not a plug and play install by a long shot.



Nismo:

Cheap has nothing to do with the blow off problem. Every blow off will do that. It's not that big of a problem, my car has one. The idle is a little funny, but not much else to worry about. Your other option is to relocate your maf after the bov, problem solved, check thesentrachannel on youtube, there is a short video about this.

Also the first gen bov is one of the best you can buy as far as holding pressure goes, but its not adjustable, and a stock eclipse is running about 14psi stock. So if you run less than that the bov probably won't open, which is as good as not having one. If you looking for a cheap one, I would check for a greddy type s or rs or something like that, they're cheap and adjustable. Megan racing also makes one pretty afordable.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

*pipe route*

also i was thinking on this motor does the intercooler piping route go something like this. intake to blowoff to one side of inter cooler, other side of inter cooler to side of turbo, center of turbo out to MAF and filter, and of coarse your exhaust down and out. let me know thanks


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

Yes, or you can put the maf before the intake after the bov (see previous post).


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

man thanks you have been a big help with my project just last week didnt think i was going to go turbo but now look i already have the front mount on turbo in my room and almost everthing else on order. manifold is the only thing im worried about but ill get that figured out


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

Beyond biscuits is selling an adapter that hooks to your stock manifold then a turbo, and he's selling a couple turbos off a jetta I think. You could look him up to buy.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

well i dont have a stock manifold i have a header right now. so im thinking of just getting one made. another question for you. where do i tap into for the water line on that turbo and do you know if the 14b is basically a t25?


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

I think a 14b is pretty close, but I think they are backwards. I know my friends 1g eclipse's intake and exhaust are opposite mine. Mine is intake drivers side exhaust passenger. His is other way around. 


Water is pretty easy, on the passenger side firewall there are two water lines, just find a tee to fit them and you in. I can post a picture if you want.


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

akexnads said:


> Gundam:
> 
> 
> One I believe if you contact them about the kit they will sell the ga16 kit with a t-25bb for a little more money. Also if you are going to use a e-manage than you have no need for a sr20 ecu. Word of warning I wouldn't go with the e-manage unless you are very familiar with your cars electrical system, it's not a plug and play install by a long shot.


i wasn't planning on using e-manage. i'd be using megasquirt if i was going to use a standalone, personally. i just brought it up because it's cheap right now. i will be using the sr20 ecu setup with mine.

i emailed them and i got the email back saying they can add the bigger turbo instead. which is GREAT news. makes my life easier.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

ya if you want to post pics it would help out alot.slo how long did it take you to put your kit on.. any tuning involded


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

turbo lines 3 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!



Here are a couple pictures, this is at the passenger side firewall. Total install took a while, but it was my first install and I ran into a few snags. I guess it took probably 2 1/2 days straight, I did it on and off. Now that I have done it, I could probably do tsi kit in 4 hours. And I did absolutely no tuning, I have the two secondary injectors, but the stock system can handle the 6psi so I have them off right now. Also I would suggest an oil pressure gauge, really helps you keep an eye on your car.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

ya that kinda helped. just ordered a oil adapter sandwich today and got my oil gauge. thinking of taking 4 days off work to do this install just incase i run into any problems


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

ok let me run through what i have so far. and you can add whatever you think i need. what i have so far is a new timing set, turbo, intercooler, oil gauge, and a oil adapter, and my turbo flanges. all that i need left i think is a boost controller, boost gauge, oil lines, turbo timer, BOV, and a manifold. is that it..lol


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

how much boost is your turbo capable of? cuz depending on what it's capable of, you could use a dual stage manual boost controller. here's a decently priced one: turboXS dual stage MBC

corksport, a top mazda performance company, supports them and sells their product, so they're good.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

well i know it can handle up to about 25 psi. im only running 8 psi but i was looking at this boost controller. tell me what you think. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/19-Manual-Boost-Controller-Turbo-HKS-Honda-Turbonetics_W0QQitemZ230300062009QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230300062009&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

I didn't get that one, but I did buy a 20 controller from ebay and it sucked. Personally I would just look for a used name brand one. Check the sr20forum or on ebay you can get a decent hallman boost controller for about 50.


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

yeah, stick with a GOOD boost controller. it's a part that you don't want to cheap out on. a cheap MBC will not keep it's settings, losing accuracy. if you can't find a good one used on ebay or the sr20forums, a brand new one is only $85.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

true well another question. which plugs should i run in this motor


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

NGK platinum or iridium plugs. NGK = #1.


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

Okay, time for me to jump on this topic, since I have experience with both Nissan and Mitsubishi turbos (my brother is a certified tech for Mitsubishi as well as a certified helicopter mechanic), so here we go.

1. Blow-thru vs draw-thru MAF. The reason cars (NA engines that have been turbo'd) bog and stall when shifting gears or decelerating is simple yet complex to explain. Nissans and other car manufacturers who turbo their cars from factory use recirculatory valves (recircs for short), which constantly circulates air through the MAF or MAP sensor for readings. Also, the engine's ECU is coded and tuned to compensate for gear shifting and deceleration. Cars that are normally NA and have been turbo'd, unless you have a tuned ECU, do NOT have this; i.e. stalling and bogging. The easiest way to fix this is one of two ways: 1. tuned ECU or 2. blow-thru MAF. In the latter, your MAF is always receiving signal and therefore still thinks it is a NA car. Voila, problem solved. Your BOV has nothing to do with fixing this problem, it is all ECU.

2. Mitsubishi turbos. The 14b is the stock turbo on manual 1st Gen Eclipses before they went to the T25 for 2nd Gen and onward. It is a little bit larger than a T25, and has a good range of boost. I believe the actual designation is a TD05, if that helps. There is a BIG problem with these turbos, though. First, they use a completely custom flange and will not bolt up to a Garrett T-series manifold (T2, T20, T25, T28). So, custom manifold, obviously. The other problem is oil pressure. Mitsubishi engines run a lower oil pressure on turbo applications than other Japanese imports, and the result is (unless you use an oil restrictor which most people forget), you over-oil the turbo and blow out the seals. Also, just a bit of knowledge, the reason the 14b turbo is reversed as compared to Nissan turbos is that the 1st Gen Eclipse 4G63T is mounted opposite to that of other Japanese imports, except Hondas. No clue why, though. You said you wanted to run 8 lbs of boost, right? I know the 14b has an internal wastegate, and it is set at 12 lbs, if I remember correctly. Which means you cannot run less than 12 lbs of boost, unless you convert to an external wastegate with an adjustable spring. That means you need to go ahead and be prepared for your engine to handle 12 lbs of boost, which means larger injectors, larger MAF, better fuel pump, etc. Remember, boost controllers only work one way: more boost.

3. TSI turbo kit. Both the GA16DE and QG18DE have the same exhaust flange, hence why the turbo manifold works for both engines. The QG18DE is basically a GA16DE with 200cc more displacement, and coil-packs. Obviously, there are more changes than that, but that is the major differences. I doubt the QG18DE turbo kit would be any different from the GA16DE other than perhaps a larger turbo? 200cc can make a big difference in terms of how soon a turbo spools under load.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

well i found out today its a 2g turbo so would anything you said be diffrent. someone told me if i use a good boost controller i could go lower. also what did you do about your oil return line did you weld it or tap it


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

2g as in 2nd Generation, or as in that is its designation? If it is the aforementioned, it will be a T25. For the latter, I have no idea. I believe the Mitsubishi T25 has a higher wastegate than the Nissan one... you might want to try and get a Nissan wastegate actuator (set at 8 lbs). As for the oil pan, I had mine welded, though most people just tap theirs. I just thought welding it would ensure no leaks whatsoever.


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## sonicgundam (Aug 15, 2007)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> 3. TSI turbo kit. Both the GA16DE and QG18DE have the same exhaust flange, hence why the turbo manifold works for both engines. The QG18DE is basically a GA16DE with 200cc more displacement, and coil-packs. Obviously, there are more changes than that, but that is the major differences. I doubt the QG18DE turbo kit would be any different from the GA16DE other than perhaps a larger turbo? 200cc can make a big difference in terms of how soon a turbo spools under load.


yeah, the qg18DE kit comes with a T25, your choice of the T25 or T25BB.

if you order it from TSI, you can just request a GA16DE kit with a T25 or T25BB. i emailed them with this question, and they answered positive.

here's the email back with the price for the extreme kit with the T25BB'



> Hi
> 
> Sorry we did send you the instructions but did not send the price.
> 
> ...


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

whats the best bov for about 8 psi


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

anyone with a good bov for cheat they want to get red of


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

Almost any bov will handle at least 6psi. But I believe a 2g eclipse turbo is set at 14psi, so like biscuits said be ready for that, or you might be able to change the actuator to something smaller. As for oil return line, I tapped mine and have had no problems so far, but welding is definitely worth considering.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

so your saying even if the turbos internal wastegate is set at 14psi theres not way of putting a boost contoller on it to turn it down to 8psi. what do i do other then get a extenal wastegate


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## akexnads (Oct 14, 2007)

you might be able to change the actuator for one set at lower boost


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

well im getting my manifold made but i was wondering were i can buy just the flanges that bolt to the motor


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

another question with running the 14b turbo what kind of timing should i do so i dont detonate. also for biscuit, would the 2gen 14b turbo bolt up to the manifold sold on this web site. Import Performance Parts - Nissan Turbo Exhaust Manifolds


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

For timing, I am not sure. As for the manifold; no. The TSI turbo manifold is set up for a T2 flange (T2, T20, T25, T28), and Mitsubishi uses a custom flange for their turbos. Here are some picture comparisons:

14b =








P.S. the 14b pictured is from an Evo, and the flange looks different from all the 14b turbos I have seen (they are very square as opposed to the rectangular T2).

T2 =









Now you can have an adapter plate made to convert between a T2 and the Mitsubishi flange.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

my flange looks like this that i bought. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__DSM-16G-14B-Turbo-Inlet-FLANGE-Stainless-steel-1G-2G_W0QQitemZ260302567913QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260302567913&_trkparms=72%3A543|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

is this flange the same as the the one on the manifold from that site


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

Yep, that is the classic 14b flange. You can buy the TSI manifold, and have the flange welded on, as long as the flange is steel. Make sure when you have it welded to take it to a shop who knows how to weld cast iron, so you don't crack or chip it. If there is one in your area, I suggest a foundry that deals with metalworking and metallurgy.


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## nismo_200sx (Jul 18, 2008)

thanks but i might but this one kit from STG1 and have my buddy build it with the flange that i have.


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## boostforfun (Jan 3, 2010)

Just to save you a little time, the spring pressure on a t25 off a 2g DSM is roughly 7psi. This means you need no boost controller if you havent spent the money already. I just ran across this forum while looking up 14b's on 1.6 engines, but I only deal in DSM's.

Hope this clears it up.

edit: wow... I missed that this was so old... my bad guys.


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## roachjuice (Oct 30, 2009)

sonicgundam said:


> yeah, stick with a GOOD boost controller. it's a part that you don't want to cheap out on. a cheap MBC will not keep it's settings, losing accuracy. if you can't find a good one used on ebay or the sr20forums, a brand new one is only $85.


lol at this comment. its a ball and spring. every mbc is a ball and spring setup. as long as its a stainless ball ur golden. just take it apart and clean it every time u do an oil change. i have a cheap ass ebay mbc on my glht omni and its doing great. hell u may not need a boost controller depending on the wastegate. if the wastegate is set for 8psi then no need to waste money on a boost controller. just hook it up directly to a vac/boost source and its set. on the bov issue. the 1g dsm bov will open at 8 psi.


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