# 1996 Nissan Sentra GXE Won't Start!



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hey Everyone,

First and foremost I would like to thank everyone for the help they provide everyone on this site. This site has helped me a lot in the past.

Here is the problem:

My car started having this starting problem on 2/14/08. I was leaving the store and I went to start the car (it's a manual transmission) and the car didn't do anything. I thought that I didn't have the clutch pushed in so I went and tried again and it started and I drove home. The next morning, Friday, I looked at the car and noticed a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals and cables. I drove to AutoZone and they removed it. Saturday I went to start the car and it was hesitating again so I decided Monday that I would have it taken to a local shop where they can diagnose the problem. I drove it to Good Year (as they have a service repair shop there) and they told me the reason why it is having trouble starting is because the belts are so old and cracked. I've known for 2 and a half years now that the belts needed to be replaced (you can see my previous post on Alternator belt) and I examined the belts and went ahead and paid to get them replaced.

At the time I didn't think that it made sense as to what they were telling me but I know they needed it so I went ahead with it. I live about 2 miles from the shop so I drove home and I pulled up to my house and shut off the engine. Before I got out of the car I decided to restart the car just for my own piece of mind. What do you know...it won't start at all. I immediately called the shop and after 2 hours of arguing with the manager, he agreed to have my car towed to his shop the following day. He said that it is either going to be the alternator or starter so I decided to go ahead and purchase a new starter (which made more sense to me as to what the problem would be) since I have a warranty on it, I can take my old one back and they would reimburse me for the faulty starter and the labor for the shop. They looked at the car for four hours, and he called and told me that it was not only the distributor but that it is also my catalytic converter, and that my car is not getting any spark. I had my car towed home the next day and I had my mom's boyfriend look at the Sentra and he said that the timing was advanced all the way to one side and that the car does have spark.

So to make a long story short (Sorry guys) when I start the car I turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump priming, the engine cranks but it never turns over. I do not smell any fuel. Also, when the car is cranking, the instrument cluster lights dim. Any ideas?

Thanks so much everyone for any advice you give. Sorry if I do not make it clear but feel free to ask me any questions.

This is an urgent matter, as I have lost my job due to transportation issues.

Melanie


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

UPDATE:

I looked at the car this morning, I degreased the engine and noticed oil on the distributor area. I cleaned it off (without removing any parts) and I let it dry and tried to start the engine and there's a loud high pitch sound that occurs while cranking the engine. The engine does sound better though.

So after that, I decided to check the spark plugs. To my surprise, I found one of my spark plugs missing (in the second cylinder...is that what it is?) Anyway, I found it inside of my car. I don't have the tool to put in the plug right now, but my question is will a missing spark plug cause the car not to start?


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Well it might start with one plug missing but would run very rough.
The question i have is who removed your plug ?
Replace the plug if it looks ok and has a gap.
If not at this point buying 4 new NGK's, ordinary plain plugs, not Platinium, for $8 seems reasonable.
You need to get someone you can trust to help you with this. 
I cant even tell if you really needed a starter.
Take off the distributer cap and look at the rotor, is it held down ok by the screw?
Is there water or Oil in there ?


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Thanks for replying!

Come to look at it again, I did find all 4 spark plugs, it's just that the one I thought was missing looks completely different than mine. I have AC Denso Iridium plugs in there right now. The shop I took it to removed the plugs.

But guess what happened....I adjusted the idle a little bit and my car turned over immediately! For some reason, adjusting the idle before didn't do anything but I think the oil on the distributor was shorting out the distributor. The car runs really rough, it has an intake and an exhaust on it but right now it sounds like a dirt bike. It needs a oil change badly. I'm going to replace all four spark plugs and install new spark plug wires. I'm also going to remove the cap and check out the rotor as well.

Let me know if any of this helps you. I really appreciate your input.

Thanks!


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Ok did it crank ok and not start before?
Or by turn over do you mean it started up. Not being picky but I came from England and although I have been in USA for a long time still have differences in phrases
These cars are susceptible to flooding, if you start up and then shut off or just move the car 25 feet, like into or out of the garage.
There is a procedure to start if this is the problem.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

To my knowledge turning over is when the car actually starts and the engine is running. Cranking is when the engine tries to start but can't. Before today it would just crank and crank but now it is starting. The idle is very bad and like I said, it does sound like a dirt bike. Hope this helps.

I don't think it was flooded because I drove the car home and shut off the engine. After that, I tried to start it again and nothing....this all happened on Februay 19th. After a week and a half of leaving the car alone, I was thinking today and just stared at it and thoughts came to mind and I finally got it started! But to answer your question...I don't think the engine was flooded because it was sitting almost a month. And I've read all the threads about the B14's and no start issues and followed the procedure to clear the ECU from flooding or whatever...

Thanks!


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

I think your mechanic was just full of nonsense.Next time take your car to a shop specialized on mechanics,but not a tire place---yes I know they have a shop,but they are specialized for GoodYear tires.No offense.
When he changed your belts,it was actually a good time to change the alternator too,because it is also a big suspect of non-starting problem,and that time it will save some of your labor cost.When you said everything went dim,I am really positive that is your alternator dying.Go and have it replace if it is urgent.The battery is not getting enough charge to start the car.

As for the corrosion,you can go to shucks.They sell some pads that you put underneath the battery cables to prevent corrosion.It's like $2 a pack.Very useful.

And after you do all the cap,rotor,oil tune up.Get a pack of new NGK spark plugs.Your car will run MUCH better.

Also the loud pitch sound you mention,I suspect it's your idler pulley going.Have it checked.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Agreed !!!
If the idle is very bad then clean the IAVC there are instructions on the forum here on this. Seems to be a fairly common problem, but mine has been ok and at 102K now.
You should check your ignition switch as well, sometimes a wont start or wont crank intermittent problem originates from the switch.
While its cranking and not starting you could try moving the wires and cables around under the hood in case you have something lose. 
These intermittent problems are the worst to find.
When its bad check for a spark.( i am thinking bad coil or distributor)
Thats all I can think of right now
Good Luck.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hey, sorry I didn't respond earlier, I was just too tired.

Yeah I know GoodYear doesn't specialize in car repairs but when I drove it home that day from the store when the problems first started, my car was making a really bad sound like something was rubbing whenever I would apply the brakes. Come to find out that it was a splash guard. But my point is I didn't want to drive it a far distance if it was faulty brakes (which it did not end up being). I removed the alternator, starter and battery and had all three tested and went to Auto Zone and they all ended up being good. The alternator and battery were replaced in February 2006 and the starter in March 2006.

My boyfriend is going to take me to the auto part store to buy new spark plugs and wires. Before I buy a new cap and rotor, I'm going to check out the ones on the car right now.

Where is the idler pulley and what does it do? I'll get all that done and hopefully it'll run better. Do you think the timing chain jumped? Someone told me that it sounds like it but I don't know, I think the car just needs a real good tune up. Not to sound like a complete idiot, but, what all do I need for a tune up?

I'll check the IACV too, where is that? You know what...I think that's one of the parts I replaced when I bought the car 3 years ago. I paid $1500 for it and it had 90,500 miles. Right now it's got 121,956 miles, right below 122K. I'm still winning the auction on ebay for the distributor (in working condition) for $10. So if it does end up being the distributor, I'm already one step ahead!


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

I think its unlikely to be a timing chain jumped. the chain makes a noise when the guides wear away or tensioner gives out
Just clean the IACV, thats all anyone here does to fix idle problems caused by this. i will look and see if I can find a good thread and post a link.
The screw on the distributer rotor can come undone, its a quick check, and the Oil seal gives out causing problems. Take a look.

i think you have just aabout done one.
New plugs, wires and rotor, maybe a fuel filter.


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

IACV cleaning instrustion...(Mods please sticky this thread.REALLY a common problem for GA16DE.)
http://www.nissanforums.com/b13-91-94-chassis/63315-iacvu-removal-cleaning-pictures.html
The idler pulley is for tightening up the belt.As I remember it's the pulley next to the water pump,looking toward the engine front.It's a common problem for squeaky belt.

I have no experience with timing chain jumped.But I have read people that they advance the timing all the way,but still have detonation.The car will run very badly.It's unlikely to happen.If it does,switch another used engine will be a cheaper fix...

I think I got what you meant.Yes it's normal everything went dim when the car is CRANKING...if the alternator check out good,I suspect it's either the ignition switch which IanH suggested,or the clutch switch.

Addition to tune up list: air filter, pcv valve,transmission oil---only use GL-4 or synthetic oil,you need to change the oil every 30,000 miles to avoid losing the 5th gear.

Before you put in another distributor,get a new o-ring for it to prevent oil leaking inside,and set the timing at 10 degree after.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hey,

So I start the car with no problem anymore and the instrument lights don't dim anymore. I removed the distributor cap today and checked the rotor and all screws are intact and tight. The next thing I'm going to do is check the Idle Air Control Valve.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

I can't find the idle air control valve!


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

try this see if it helps










BTW you can upload the Nissan FSM for free at

phatg20.net

Good Luck


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

I'm still confused, is that picture a front rear or side view? I even looked in my Haynes repair manual and I don't see the IACV.

Another thing, I have an aftermarket Tach and the tach is not showing the rpms, it just stays at zero. I'm trying to check the wiring (as it is behind the dash) but I can't figure out how to get back there (everything is behind the air conditioning and cd player).


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

BlackMagic said:


> I'm still confused, is that picture a front rear or side view? I even looked in my Haynes repair manual and I don't see the IACV.
> 
> Another thing, I have an aftermarket Tach and the tach is not showing the rpms, it just stays at zero. I'm trying to check the wiring (as it is behind the dash) but I can't figure out how to get back there (everything is behind the air conditioning and cd player).


Ok i printed the picture and went and looked under the hood.
Open the hood, move to drivers side by wheel, look over the strut towards intake manifold. about 12 inches high is where picture is taken from.
You will see the Air duct to the Air filter box and just above to the right is the IACV. its almost at the top of the assembly.
I have the cluster swap so am not the right person to help with after market Tach's but yes you are correct its a bugger to work back there.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

I don't know if this makes any difference but the car has an intake on it. Will I still be able to find it as easily? I'll be back at my house tomorrow to work on the car. The oil is seriously overdue for a change, would that cause it to run the way it is?


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

Yours is a B14 so I believe the IACV is at the driver's side.It's plugged into the intake manifold,right next to the intake pipe I would say.It's on the top,so it's very easy to locate.My IACV plug has a purple color.(or yours might be black color).It's a pretty big plug you won't miss it.

Old oil makes your car sluggish,and will build up slunge too.If you have always been using conventional oil,I suggest Castrol GTX 5W-30.It's cheap and it's a very good oil.Don't switch into synthetic oil unless you have used it before.Otherwise the oil will leak out everywhere.

Also for the oil filter get the nissan one,or get a WIX or Bosch filter.DO NOT use any Fram or Pennzoil filter.


----------



## t-bizzzle (Mar 24, 2008)

*Try hitting the gas when you start the car.*

I have a 1999 Sentra that I bought used with 60K miles on it. After about a week it wouldn't start one day. I was pissed but I tried it the next day and it started right up! Then it wouldn't start again, so I called the dealership.

The guy at the dealership knew exactly what was wrong. He told me to get it started I need to floor it and hold the starter on for about a minute until it starts. He was right! After about 40 seconds it started to get life and then it started a few second later. He then told me that every time I start the car I need to push the gas pedal in a little bit and I won't have a problem. He was right about that too. 5 year and 80K miles later it will start every time if I hit the gas a little bit. The only problem is once every 18 months or so I don't do it right and have to hold the starter on.

I have done more research on it and I found that this is supposedly only a problem at high altitude, which would make sense because I live in Denver. I also read it can be fixed via a modified Power Control Module. I called a dealer about that and they say that is not a repair Nissan does, but I may be able to get that done aftermarket. Does anybody have any idea what is involved in getting a modified PCM?


key words: sentra won't start trouble starting


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Well I got the starting problem fixed. I have a small valve cover leak and the oil got on the distributor making it unable to start. The problem I have now is that the car runs really badly and it sounds like it's clogged. I haven't been at home so I haven't been able to check out the car yet.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Okay guys, I'm at home right now and I'm working on the car. I got the IACV off (but I was unable to remove the wiring harness from it). I see a little bit of black build up, can I still spray in the carb cleaner with the harness attached? Is it okay to try to start the car without the IACV in?

Also, for the tach issue, I don't know what is wrong. I can't remove my dash to get back there to see where all the wires are and which go where. Help!


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Okay I cleaned out the IACV. It runs a little tiny bit better, but when I apply the gas, it still sounds like a dirtbike. I don't know what to try next. There was barely any carbon on the IACV.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

hello again, i wrote a reply earlier today and it didn't post, sorry.
The wire for the tach is probably joined to the ECU at the bottom of the center stack. there is a wire there that is used for the non-tach to tach cluster conversion, I very much doubt you have to pull the cluster out. Look for added wiring. Also under hood around the distributer. 

Someone who has added an after market tach please help.

I don't understand your description of the noise, is the exhaust pipe damaged ?


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

BlackMagic said:


> Well I got the starting problem fixed. I have a small valve cover leak and the oil got on the distributor making it unable to start. The problem I have now is that the car runs really badly and it sounds like it's clogged. I haven't been at home so I haven't been able to check out the car yet.


So you get a new valve cover gasket and it still runs bad?You mean it is kinda sluggish?I suggest a new fuel filter and pcv valve.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hey Guys, Thanks for the post!

IanH:

I tried all day to disconnect the dash paneling so I can look at the wiring but I couldn't pry the covers off of the top of the dash to remove the paneling. I followed all the directions in my Haynes manual and still no luck. I checked the wire that goes from te tach to the distributor and its plugged in, so I'm suspecting that the problem is on the inside of the car, behind the dash. Next time I am able to borrow a car to work on my car I will check what you suggest IF I can get behind the freakin' dash!

The only way that I can describe the noise is I start the car (which is no longer a problem) and the idle is very rough, and it sounds like there's something rattling, and if I push on the gas, the car gets a little bit louder but it sounds like a dirt bike when you rev it up. I looked at my exhaust pipe and it looks fine.

Also....I was thinking...before I brought the car into the shop, it was running fine. When I got it back (after it was broken down) I noticed they put in different spark plugs, and a different battery. Is it possible that the problem could be the gap on my spark plugs?? I've adjusted the distributor while the car has been running and it seems to run best when it is at the line (which was already drawn on the distributor). I don't have a spark plug socket, but I do have all of my spark plugs (which they removed), so I guess when I get to my car next time, I can just put my plugs in and see if it runs any better.

Joeli16:

I didn't get a new valve cover gasket, all I did was degrease the engine and noticed a lot of oil on my distributor. I cleaned it off and after everything was dry, to my surprise, my car started. I think I will replace the fuel filter as well, where is the pcv valve and what does it do? How do you know if it needs to be replaced?

Thanks as usual, guys.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

BlackMagic said:


> Hey Guys, Thanks for the post!
> 
> IanH:
> 
> ...



http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/118530-definitive-guide-how-adjust-timing.html
Good Luck...


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

I will not trust the plugs that those people put in.You should go to an auto shop and buy a pack of NGK G-power plugs.They are made with platinum so you don't have to gap them.Or you can get NGK V-power normal plugs and gap them at 0.043mm.

When you take the dash out,you have to remove the plastic trim in the front.There are four bolts holding the plastic trim.Two of them are at the top,right in front of the dash,one underneath the dimmer switch, and one next to the center console.You can find them easily.Before you take the trim out,you have to first unbolt the two top bolts of the center console.They locate under the center air vent.Because the center console is holding the plastic trim up so you can't get it out without unbolt the console.

After removing all the stuff,you will see there are four bolts for the dash.Unbolt them and you are done taking the dash out.

You need to get a new O-ring for the distributor now!I feel like the o-ring is toasted and can't seal up the distributor from the oil.When you take the distributor out,you will see there is an oil seal on the distributor at the place where it attaches to the engine.If you change that but there is still oil,replace the valve cover gasket.

I suggest you adjust the distributor back to the line.If you adjust too much without the timing light,you will have detonation.You will hear a pinging noise (kind of like a rattling noise).It is the piston moving side ways.It will destroy the piston in the long run.

The pcv valve locates at the top of the valve cover,close to the second plug wire,at the back side.You will see there is a hose going to the throttle body.You just need to take the hose off and unscrew the pcv valve out.It's like a 5-minute job.It ensures continual evacuation of gases.


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hey

So I got back to my house today and looked at the car. Where the second spark plug is, there was a rust color liquid on the wire and around the plug. I tried to dry it up, and then I let the engine idle. It still idles rough (I'm not sure if it is as rough as previously) and I pressed the accelerator and it still feels and sounds like there is no power. So I was letting the car warm up and I walked behind the car and saw that same rust color liquid coming out of the tailpipe. I took a picture.

Here's the link, let me know if it doesn't work. Thanks.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll48/MelanieLGage/color.jpg


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

Oh no that's not good.It looks like coolant leaked into the engine and mixed with oil.With your evidence of the rusty looking liquid in the exhaust,I think you have a blown head gasket.That's why you have all kinds of trouble of not starting and very rough idle.

Check your coolant and oil,if any one has the same milky looking fluid.I am positive your head gasket is blown...

It's very strange to have this liquid around the plug...I have read people had coolant leaked around the plug inside and nobody knew why.Before suspecting the head gasket,you should change the valve cover gasket and the gasket for the plugs.They are in one set and cost around $30 and shouldn't be hard to change.

You can also take your car to a shop to have a leak-down test to see if there is head gasket leakage.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

joeli16 said:


> Oh no that's not good.It looks like coolant leaked into the engine and mixed with oil.With your evidence of the rusty looking liquid in the exhaust,I think you have a blown head gasket.That's why you have all kinds of trouble of not starting and very rough idle.
> 
> Check your coolant and oil,if any one has the same milky looking fluid.I am positive your head gasket is blown...
> 
> ...


Excellent advice although I don't understand why the exhaust and liquid around plugs is rust colored when there isn't much iron in these engines these days. Could this just be condensation and rust from the exhaust.

So yes before jumping into a major tear down check the coolant, what color is it? Has someone added sealer ( usually brown !!) Does it have Oil sheen on top?
Is oil a nice brown or black ? No white froth or coolant drops?

If you have a compression tester test the compression, don't forget to hold the throttle open when cranking.


----------



## joeli16 (Nov 19, 2004)

IanH said:


> Excellent advice although I don't understand why the exhaust and liquid around plugs is rust colored when there isn't much iron in these engines these days. Could this just be condensation and rust from the exhaust.
> 
> So yes before jumping into a major tear down check the coolant, what color is it? Has someone added sealer ( usually brown !!) Does it have Oil sheen on top?
> Is oil a nice brown or black ? No white froth or coolant drops?
> ...


I am thinking that is the oil and coolant mixed together and forms this milky rusty looking fluid.When I was helping a guy out with an accord,his oil on the dipstick looked exactly like this.He also had trouble for starting and very very rough idle.Yes he got a blown head gasket.The fluid in the exhaust may be just too much coolant leaked into the engine.

If either the coolant or the oil look just like this,ready to have the head gasket changed...


----------



## BlackMagic (Feb 28, 2006)

Hi Guys, sorry its been so long. So my car is officially back on the road. After this long headache, the reason for the idle problem was due to melted spark plug wires. I had the idler pulley replaced and my air conditioning system replaced (due to a very annoying rattle that makes the car sound really bad) and its back on the road and running better than ever. Thanks!


----------



## sinning (Mar 28, 2008)

I just finished solving a problem with my ga16de 99 sentra it would crank but not start... well i found out that my gasoline was bad and i needed to change my distributor that fixed my problem instantly you need to change the fuel filter just incase and your spark plugs and my car is running great now i hope you had the same problem that would be your answer hopefully good luck


----------



## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

BlackMagic said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> I looked at the car this morning, I degreased the engine and noticed oil on the distributor area. I cleaned it off (without removing any parts) and I let it dry and tried to start the engine and there's a loud high pitch sound that occurs while cranking the engine. The engine does sound better though.
> 
> So after that, I decided to check the spark plugs. To my surprise, I found one of my spark plugs missing (in the second cylinder...is that what it is?) Anyway, I found it inside of my car. I don't have the tool to put in the plug right now, but my question is will a missing spark plug cause the car not to start?


Wow. This is retarded. Guess Goodyear has some splaing to do lucy.


----------

