# Rear Brake Pad (& disc) Replacements



## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

The other weekend my X-Trail made a horrible noise from the rear. I drove around the parking lot trying to figure out what it was. I jacked the vehicle up and took the rear tire off. I turned the wheel using the studs and the brake pads were grinding against the rotor. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership, where they told me I had to replace the rear pads and rotors.

I didn't have any warning and upon inspection of the old pads I seen the pad with the warning tab was barely warn. That is, only one pad on each side was worn out, while the other pad had a fair amount of life. The dealership in Saint John said they have had to replace four or five rear pads on the Xtrails and Altimas. I checked with my dealer in Fredericton and they are unaware of any problem.

I rotate my own tires and watch the front brake pads, as these typically wear out first. Have any of you replaced the rear pads first? I had 78 000 km when this repair was done. I know this is high mileage, but it is all highway and I use my transmission when I slow down. I have had seven nissans and this is the first one I replaced the brake pads on (normally trade at 140 000km), especially the rear pads.

I would appreciate any comments/insight on this matter..

Greg


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

I replaced my rear pads (after) the front ones and I have done that at around 48,000kms. The wear on them was very even on both sides.

Mine is Automatic, so I rely on the brakes a lot.

There must be something else that is causing this uneven wear and the first couple of things that come to mind are:

1. Handbrake locked (or driving with a handbrake on by accident)
2. Brake pistons are not retracting correctly therefore leaving the pad stuck to the surface. Check the brake fluid levels.
3. Retracting pins on the brake pads are broken.
4. No grease on the reverse side of the pads to help smooth their retracting motion.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

aussietrail said:


> ...
> 1. Handbrake locked (or driving with a handbrake on by accident)
> 2. Brake pistons are not retracting correctly therefore leaving the pad stuck to the surface. Check the brake fluid levels.
> 3. Retracting pins on the brake pads are broken.
> 4. No grease on the reverse side of the pads to help smooth their retracting motion.



My personal experience (see my next post) tells me to pick # 4
and to add two words: *"Canadian Winters"*

Btw, lets clarify something for our X-trailers:
the "pedal brake (ie all 4 disc & pads)" and the rear "hand brake" are two distinct brake systems:
The hand brake relies on a rear shoes & drum system located within the rear discs. So driving with your hand brake on, while it may wear out the shoes specific to this system, does not wear out the rear pads.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Oreo said:


> ... I turned the wheel using the studs and the brake pads were grinding against the rotor. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership, where they told me I had to replace the rear pads and rotors.
> 
> I didn't have any warning and upon inspection of the old pads I seen the pad with the warning tab was barely warn. ....
> 
> ...



WOWWW, same thing happened to me !
…well maybe not as bad since it was caught on time.

As I explained to anyone who cared to listen: for the moment I have regular inspections performed at the Dealer every 6000 km faithfully.
I went at 18000 km; inspection revealed everything in order (rear pads 85% good).
I then went for the 24000 km; when I am told the rear sliding pins mechanism was rusted and seized which caused rear pads to stick and wear out. (15% left on them) and would have to be replaced at my next visit (why I was not contacted for immediate pad replacement while they were working on them is any ones guess). 

Anyway last week I picked up a set of rear pads and replaced them myself.
Making sure the shims and sliding mechanism were properly lubricated.

At my next visit to the big “D” I intend to bring up this matter for $ compensation.
Since its just tooooooo easy to say “sorry, brake system is never covered under warranty”.

Also, imo, the fact that only one out of four rear pads has a “warning tab” is absurd and should be revised.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*Fantastic Brake Pad Life*



Oreo said:


> I rotate my own tires and watch the front brake pads, as these typically wear out first. Have any of you replaced the rear pads first? I had 78 000 km when this repair was done. I know this is high mileage, but it is all highway and I use my transmission when I slow down. I have had seven nissans and this is the first one I replaced the brake pads on (normally trade at 140 000km), especially the rear pads.
> 
> I would appreciate any comments/insight on this matter..
> 
> Greg


Greg:

I do hope that the info supplied by ValBoo & aussietrail has been helpful to you (and other members).

Am I reading your post correct when you say that this problem occurred @ 78 k on the rear shoes ?? 

For the "average" driver that would be close to 3 years of use, which I personally would consider pretty darn good...

Again, If I'm reading your post correct, it appears that you have driven other Nissan product as much as 140K without changing the pads ??? 

I've only one thing to say - - Glad your not on my rear bumper if I have to stop in a hurry - - 

I'd be quite happy to get the 78k from any set of "pads"


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## Xtrailguy (Mar 9, 2006)

I replaced my pads at about 48k for peace of mind.
I now have 75k on my 05.

I used to own a Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec-V. I managed to get 80k out of a set of pads on that car before I trade it.


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

All I can say is I have my vehicle serviced at the dealership on a regular basis (every 6000km). Over the years I have had 6 other nissan vehicles, all with high mileage. I have asked many times to check my brake pads and I have checked them myself. They have always checked out alright. I drive high mileage (entirely highway) and do not use my brakes often, as I gear down and start slowing down in advance when I know I am turning. In addition, I tend to travel large distances. I find it hard to believe my rear pads were worn out before the front. My front pads still have 50% left on them (according to the Saint John dealer who replaced my rear pads and rotor).

Greg


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## ERBell (Aug 7, 2005)

Check with the dealer on which wears out first (front or rear). I had an 02 Jetta TDI and my rear brakes wore out first at 110,000 Kms. The dealer said it was normal with the newer VWs. 

Since then I have had other friends with golfs and jettas that have had the same thing occur.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Greg,

you don't have to explain any further...
It is clear that something went wrong with your rear brake system and caused your rear pads to wear out prematurely.
It is infuriating especially when you rely on the dealer with regular inspection intervals.
...and as I said before I share this same experience with you.
I am planing to get compensation for this within a week & will let you know how it went.


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

Marc,
Any luck with getting compensation for your rear brake pads? Does your new pads have more than one warning tab?

Greg


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## ERBell (Aug 7, 2005)

Oreo said:


> The other weekend my X-Trail made a horrible noise from the rear. I drove around the parking lot trying to figure out what it was. I jacked the vehicle up and took the rear tire off. I turned the wheel using the studs and the brake pads were grinding against the rotor. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership, where they told me I had to replace the rear pads and rotors.
> 
> I didn't have any warning and upon inspection of the old pads I seen the pad with the warning tab was barely warn. That is, only one pad on each side was worn out, while the other pad had a fair amount of life. The dealership in Saint John said they have had to replace four or five rear pads on the Xtrails and Altimas. I checked with my dealer in Fredericton and they are unaware of any problem.
> 
> ...


If only one pad is wearing out that could mean that either a caliper piston is siezed or something is not greased properly. If that is the case the problem is hydraulic and should be covered under warranty at no cost to you. If it is not covered under warranty get it done somewhere else, or at least take it to another nissan dealer and get a second oppinion.


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## Proteejay (Sep 21, 2006)

*61000KM Rear Rotor & Pad replacement*



Oreo said:


> The other weekend my X-Trail made a horrible noise from the rear. I drove around the parking lot trying to figure out what it was. I jacked the vehicle up and took the rear tire off. I turned the wheel using the studs and the brake pads were grinding against the rotor. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership, where they told me I had to replace the rear pads and rotors.
> 
> Greg



Hi Oreo. Thought it would be a good idea if I posted my experience with the rear brake replacement on my 2005 X-Trail (manual XE). My experience is almost identical to Oreo's and ValBoo.

At 61000KM the rear brakes started to squeal slightly. Within a week, and with almost no warning, the rear brake pad was rubbing against the rotor. What I found strange was the rear brakes had to be replaced before the front. I am now in the process of replacing the rear brakes and rotors. The driver’s side rear rotor is gouged pretty good and I'm not sure if it's worth turning. 

I'll send an update when the work is finished but this rear brake failure seems to be a potential problem for X-Trails and I would warn all X-Trail owners to pay special attention to your brakes and rotors at regular intervals. A Nissan service manager has informed me that the design (or size) of the rear brakes on the X-Trail causes them to wear quickly. Premium aftermarket pads maybe the way to go.

60000km and I have to drop $600 to replace brakes and rotors. That's a little too soon. Not even sure if I'll write Nissan because I'm really not interested in the 'not covered under warranty' speech and all that.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Greg (& Proteejay)

No. I did not pursue the compensation since I have not gone back to that particular dealer since.
& no, the new set of pads I got only have one warning tab.




I was lucky enough that my rear rotors were intact.

There is definitely something to worry about here, perhaps not the brake pad design itself but the sliding mechanism for sure. It is simply too sensitive to jamming.

Obviously there has been more than a few cases of this happening in harsh environments (ie Canada=winter= salt & sand grime on roads).

You cannot rely on a simple visual inspection of your brake components as given by the regular intervals because one day the rear pads will be fine and the next time the slides will have jammed and your pads will be worn and grinding away on your rotors; only one of the 4 rear pads has the warning tab so you cannot rely on that...

Never mind dealer inspection: I have decided to take another approach on this one:
Every time I switch winter/summer tires & wheels I will undo the rear calipers and check the slides and re-grease the slide mechanism. Full stop. I did this in the spring (& at the same time replaced my rear pads). I will be checking again this fall (in a one & a half month or so) and so on.


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## sanj101ca (Aug 4, 2006)

What aftermarket pads/rotors do your guy's recommend?

Thanks,
Sanjay


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

ValBoo said:


> Greg (& Proteejay)
> 
> No. I did not pursue the compensation since I have not gone back to that particular dealer since.
> & no, the new set of pads I got only have one warning tab.
> ...


I will admit I am no longer doing a visual inspection, and intend to check my pads individually on my next wheel rotation as illustrated by Marc. I am also considering picking up an extra set of pads and replace them on a set schedule. This work will not be a big deal as I rotate every 10,000 and use dedicated winter tires. Thus the wheels are off a fair amount.

Marc/Stephen, Do you guys in Montreal meet weekly? I am up there on business a few times a year and may take in one of your meetings if it coincides.

Greg


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Hey Greg, 
what a nice idea... that would be great.

Stephen and I meet once in a while, but I think we are definatly due for a lunch at "Mikes"; what do you say Stephen?
Greg, if you are planning to come to Mtl then let us know (private message).


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## RJH (Oct 13, 2006)

My pins seized - causing all 4 pads to tilt and wear the top half only - of every pad. 

05 - X-trail - 72,000K

The only way to complain - is as a group.

My (sold) pathfinder - had no such problems - 145,000K


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## Xtrailguy (Mar 9, 2006)

I replaced the pads on my XT today as routine maintenance. Luckily my rotors looked good, but my pads were getting pretty bad (especially the rears).

FYI for those of you in Canada, I got my brake pads (front and rear) from a UAP/Napa store. $161 + tax for both pair.


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## xsurfer1 (Aug 30, 2004)

*Brake Problem*

Hi everyone. I'm having no luck with the dealership on these problems, so I'm hoping someone here might be able to help.

I own a 2005 X-Trail with 33000 KMs. A couple of months ago, it started making a strange sound coming from the front end while I drive on the highway. It doesn't last very long. Nissan couldn't determine the problem because it is sporadic. I'm not sure if it's related to the break problem which I'll describe now.

I had to replace the rear brake pads at 31,000 KMs. The mechanic told me one of the pads was significantly more worn than the other one. I have never had to replace brake pads this soon and normally the front ones wear before the rear ones.

The car now has 33,000 KMs. Last week I noticed that the front driver's side rim gets hot after driving the car on the highway. If it's driven in the city, the same rim gets warm. All other rims remain cold. The driver's side rotor is discolored (redish) and the others are fine. I took it to Nissan again and was told I need new rotors and brake pads. The technician said the calipers are fine. I have never had to replace rotors (or even break pads) this soon. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this pre-mature, uneven ware? Will replacing the rotors and brake pads fix the problem with the driver's side rotor heating?

Thanks in advance for any ideas.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

It sounds like something is "seized" causing the brake pad to remain engaged when it should not....that would lead to premature wear and overheating of your rotor.....and if your rotor overheats it will probably warp as well...

Suggestion:- take it to one of those places that does a "free" brake inspection - - I'll bet they will identify the "cause" of the problem...

Please let us know the outcome - 33K for new rotors and pads is not encouraging at all.

Good luck with it....


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

It sounds like one of your brake pistons is locking up and not retracting to its place when you press the pedal. This in turn causes the brake pads to stay in touch with the surface of the disc, hence the heat.

You might have air in your brake system and may require a brake fluid flush before fitting the new pads and discs, otherwise the problem will happen again.

The dealer should check the operation of the brake pistons before replacing anything and if it is indeed the cause of this problem, this is a warranty job.


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## xsurfer1 (Aug 30, 2004)

I took the car into another NISSAN dealership today (401 & Dixie Nissan in Toronto). At least this time they checked everything. The technician showed me what the problem was. One of the front rear break pad was sticking to the rotor because of rust and dirt build-up. This caused the rotor to heat up. Both the rotor and break bad wore out quickly as a result. He strongly suggested having the breaks frequently cleaned and checked.

He loosened and cleaned the break pad because I coudn't get the work done today. When I drove home, I noticed there was no more noise coming from the front end and when I arrived home, I checked the wheel rim and it was cold to the touch like the other ones were. Hopefully, this has resolved the mystery of the noise coming from the front end, although I'm not too happy about replacing the rotors and break pads after such a short time.

Thanks to all who have responded to my original post.


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## Rockford (Jan 28, 2005)

The dianosees (what's plural for "diagnosis"??) here and at 401/Dixie sound spot-on to me. Just make sure it was in fact rust & dirt build up and not a problem with the caliper piston itself. If indeed dirt, going to the local self-serve wash and spending a couple
bucks a week if only to blast away at (and in) the wheels should be suffcient to keep 'em clean.
I don't think (not sure, mind) that replacement of both front rotors would be necessary in this case. Granted, you may have to buy them in sets of two, but your existing passenger rotor should be ok. You might want to hang onto it and its pads..maybe even Ebay them for a few bucks. 
I had a similar problem with my CRX this summer. Same wheel as you. I was on the highway and it was so bad that in stop and go traffic, the car was actually braking itself to a stop and would lurch to a stop with zero input from me. Kinda felt like I left the e-brake on by mistake. That and the smoke coming from the wheel tipped me off. Thankfully, my rotor was ok. My pads were toast and the brake fluid had boilled, though. Rusted (sticking) caliper pistons were to blame in my case so they were replaced. On a '91 car I guess I can't complain. An '05 is a different story.
My X-Trail is going in for its 24,000km service on Saturday and a front and rear brake service is on the agenda.


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## xsurfer1 (Aug 30, 2004)

I'm very impressed with everyone's knowledge here. Too bad the first Nissan techician I took the x-trail to wasn't as knowledgable! I took the car in this morning to a mechanic near by (Nissan was more expensive, surprise!). Only 1 break pad and rotor was warn but I was told that all should be replace. The Nissan technician at 401 & Dixie showed me the pistons were working fine.
This mechanic I took the car too is not bad although I'm still in search of someone who is a bit better at diagnosing problems. I'm open to any recommendations for a good, honest, and reasonable mechanic in the Toronto area.


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## Rockford (Jan 28, 2005)

I go to Simone Performance Imports in Newmarket. Not exactly Toronto area, but close.
They specialize in Nissans.
Simone Performance Imports Auto Repair and Racing


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## raid235 (Jan 2, 2007)

I had to have my breaks serviced much sooner than normal as well for my experience. It was grinding on the read passenger disc break that alerted me to the problem and the knowledge that it was too late. The Nissan dealer told me both rear discs were scored and that both front pads had worn unevenly (one side was at min spec and the other end of the front pad was over twice the thickness)

2 new rear rotors and machined front and 4 sets of new pads at 65,000 km. I usually dont have to service my brakes until well over 100,000 km and its the front not the rear. Still havent service my rear brakes on my altima which has 265,00 km

I think it will be evident that brakes are an issue on this car. seizing, uneven wear and rapid wear. Not acceptable for the market segment of this vehicle. Maybe you need to service the pads on a mercedes every 20,000 k, but people who buy a midsized gas efficient A to B SUV arent into high maintenance vehicles. Im sure not

I am pretty shocked and disappointed in this regard in Nissan as I thought I was safe from this sort of thing in choosing a reputable Japanese manufacturer and based on my prior history with the pathfinder as far as SUV's go and the Altima fordurability and reliability and low maintenance costs in the 1st 180,000 km


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

One of the chief causes of caliper sticking or brake binding is corrosion in the brake caliper pistons. Brake fluid has a natural tendency to absorb water. Moisture gets past the rubber seals in the caliper pistons (due to heating, cooling cycles).

That's why it's important to bleed the brake/clutch system and replace (not just replenish) the fluid every 18-24 months tops. 

I have seen cars with less than 10,000 km with factory-filled brake fluid - that had corrosion in the calipers, so new cars are not always exempt.

Simply bleeding the system to rid it of air bubbles is insufficient. 

If you don't have another set of hands (or feet) to help you bleed the brakes, you can always build a home-made brake bleeder system using a pressurised insecticide spray container, some high pressure hose and a modified brake fluid reservoir cap, to do this as a one-man job. (Make sure it's clean before you fill it with brake fluid. And use googles.)

Seems to work as well as the expensive commercial brake bleeder kits. So far.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

*NOTE: Last 9 posts were merged to an existing thread.*


The rear brake problem has been discussed before; hence the merging mentioned above.

This is definitely a problem point for north america.
The conclusion was the slide pin mechanism getting dirt/rust etc. which then leads to the pads getting pressed on the disc and prematurely wearing out.

The solution, unfortunately, is more frequent brake clean out.

It has been my experience (and others) that a simple inspection at the dealer will not alert them to the problem. Components have to be dismantled.


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

LEONGSTER said:


> Brake fluid has a natural tendency to absorb water.


Pity more cars don't use LHM fluid which is a mineral oil similar to automatic transmission fluid and so never absorbs water. It's used in Citroens, Rolls Royce, BMW and few others.

I've got a 17 year old neglected Citroen which last had the LHM changed about 7 years ago and the brake pedal is still a solid as a rock and both front and rear pads are original. (I've had it from new.) Only brake service it's ever needed was to copper-grease the pins that go through the pads.


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## miataguy (Jan 13, 2007)

Oreo said:


> The other weekend my X-Trail made a horrible noise from the rear. I drove around the parking lot trying to figure out what it was. I jacked the vehicle up and took the rear tire off. I turned the wheel using the studs and the brake pads were grinding against the rotor. I had the vehicle towed to the dealership, where they told me I had to replace the rear pads and rotors.
> 
> I didn't have any warning and upon inspection of the old pads I seen the pad with the warning tab was barely warn. That is, only one pad on each side was worn out, while the other pad had a fair amount of life. The dealership in Saint John said they have had to replace four or five rear pads on the Xtrails and Altimas. I checked with my dealer in Fredericton and they are unaware of any problem.
> 
> ...


Hi Greg:

I had exactly the same experience with a 2003 Altima 2.5S. I got the heavy duty grinding noise with about 20K Kms in the middle of my second winter with the car. Dealer told me I needed a $1200 dollar complete brake job. I found that to be astounding, (previously had Maxi and Pathfinders for 3 years and never touched the brakes), so bought new pads and a jack, took the car home and pulled the rear wheels. I found that both the rear caliper slider pins were rusted into position thus causing all the wear on one pad only.
It was cold in the unheated garage where I was working so I cleaned up the slider pins, dropped in the new pads and drove the car for another 20K before replacing all rotors and pads. I think that when they are assembled at the factory the slider pins are not lubricated which may be fine for non corrosive driving but here in Canada and the NE USA stuck/frozen calipers may be an issue. On another point the Altima and maybe the XT seem to use up rear pads faster than one might think. My suggestion is to apply the high temp disc brake lube to all slider pins at least every other fall.
cheers


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## raid235 (Jan 2, 2007)

Thanks for passing on the experience as this explains my issues and that Im not alone in this. I usually replace pads myself but didnt this time due to timing the cold weather etc, but with your advice I think I wil chack and due the lub you mention as I already have the special lube. I have found as long as the rotors werent damaged Ive never had to have them machined when replacing pads and never encountered issues for not doing this that the dealers always warn of.

Just wish I had caught the issue ahead of time and then been able to plan to do it myself and also save on the rotors.
I know for next time


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

I ran a visual check on my XTY's rear pads (35,000km + ). The outer ones were down to around 5mm. Unusually poor lifespan, given my braking habits...

Changing to a high performance pad may not always lead to longer brake life - the harder compound may take off more of your rotors and you'd simply end up spending more money on machining them or worse replacing them.

Can the weight-distribution of the XTY, combined with pads that are under-designed, be causing them to wear so quickly?


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

LEONGSTER said:


> .........
> 
> Can the weight-distribution of the XTY, combined with pads that are under-designed, be causing them to wear so quickly?


Weight distribution? I don't think so.
Pads under designed? I don't think so either.

As for the specific rear brake problem sprouting up on many X-Trails for North America I think, reviewing ALL the previous posts, that we have the problem nailed. (ie lack of lubrication of slider mechanism)


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

raid235 said:


> ...........2 new rear rotors and machined front and 4 sets of new pads at 65,000 km. I usually dont have to service my brakes until well over 100,000 km and its the front not the rear. ..........


Nice to see others run similar distances before doing routine maintenence. My rear pads and rotors went last spring (as described in my original post) when I had 80 000 km. I now have 136 000 km and will be checking my pads when I rotate my tires. I am hoping they are fine. If not I will likely go to NAPA as they have a great warranty on their pads.

Greg


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

miataguy said:


> Hi Greg:
> 
> I had exactly the same experience with a 2003 Altima 2.5S. I got the heavy duty grinding noise with about 20K Kms in the middle of my second winter with the car. Dealer told me I needed a $1200 dollar complete brake job. I found that to be astounding, (previously had Maxi and Pathfinders for 3 years and never touched the brakes), so bought new pads and a jack, took the car home and pulled the rear wheels. I found that both the rear caliper slider pins were rusted into position thus causing all the wear on one pad only.
> It was cold in the unheated garage where I was working so I cleaned up the slider pins, dropped in the new pads and drove the car for another 20K before replacing all rotors and pads. I think that when they are assembled at the factory the slider pins are not lubricated which may be fine for non corrosive driving but here in Canada and the NE USA stuck/frozen calipers may be an issue. On another point the Altima and maybe the XT seem to use up rear pads faster than one might think. My suggestion is to apply the high temp disc brake lube to all slider pins at least every other fall.
> cheers


Thanks for the advise. Will be doing this on the weekend.

Greg


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## integral (Jan 17, 2007)

Interested to read about brake pads - might solve my problem.
I was very happy with my Xtrail until my last service @ 28,000km. Afterwards I was getting vibration thru the rear end and vibration thru the steering under braking.
The dealer replaced the front pads and arranged an alignment and balancing.

Afterwards the vibration disappeared under braking, but there was still vibration thru the body. One of the Dunlops was out of round and replaced, but still no better. Thinking that it was bad tires, I replaced them with Bridgestone Duellers. They are much better, but I still get some vibration. 

Had the Bridgestone dealer check the balance again - afterwards everything was perfect. But next day went back to getting some vibration. Could this be the brake pads affecting the tires?

I am going back to the dealer today.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

You may have a warped disc. Also, brake pads need to be gently bedded in first 500km or so.


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## Rolly58 (Mar 26, 2007)

*XT brakes*

Presently sitting in Fayetteville N.C., waiting for brake parts to be shipped from dealer in Canada; 23,000km and the rear brakes are gone - pads and rotors - dealer says my problem - will not cover costs


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## Pianoman (Jul 14, 2005)

*Rear Brakes*

Valboo,

I too have had the same problem with my 2005 x-trail. I would also like to inspect and re-grease the slice mechanism when I rotate my tires, but have not been able to find instructions on how to do this on the web. Do you know where I could find this information? Your help would be appreciated.

Regards,

Hubert





ValBoo said:


> Greg (& Proteejay)
> 
> No. I did not pursue the compensation since I have not gone back to that particular dealer since.
> & no, the new set of pads I got only have one warning tab.
> ...


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## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

OK, just because it is Easter... , I could meanwhile try and describe how they've done mine (but you do this at own risk!): 

Take off road wheel.
Remove lower (or one) sliding pin bolt.
Swing caliper upwards and around upper sliding pin till it clears the rotor/disk.
Then push caliper towards vehicle so that top sliding pin slides out to free caliper.
Carefully suspend caliper (hang with wire not to stretch brake hose).
Remove lower sliding pin from structure which is attached to suspension (carefully pop it loose from sliding pin rubber boot).
Wipe both pins clean with a rag and apply new grease to it (not too much!).
Reassemble in reverse order as already described.
Fasten & torque sliding pin bolt to 37 Nm (manual actually recommends 43 for rear wheel units...).

Notes: Do not depress brake pedal while busy with this (piston will pop out...)
The sliding pin bolts are those on the inside and in line with the two small pin rubber boots.

Regards


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## Pianoman (Jul 14, 2005)

GFB,

Happy Easter and thanks for the info, I'll give it a shot.

Regards,


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## Rolly58 (Mar 26, 2007)

Back in Magog after 1000$ worth of repairs in Fayetteville, NC. The dealer in Sherbrooke had to air mail the parts because the X-Trail is not sold in the US and has different parts from all other Nissan vehicles. Had to delay our return home to wait for the parts and the labor. Ended spending and extra 2 nights at my own expense obviously. Have made a claim to Nissan Canada to have all related expenses repaid.

Wish me luck!!


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Rolly58 said:


> ...Have made a claim to Nissan Canada to have all related expenses repaid...


Who ever you made your claim with, you should give them the link to this complete thread so that they can read about it...


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## qdwater (Feb 14, 2005)

I got the same problems on my 2005 X-Trail rear brake, it's only 31,000Km, and make noise sound when I apply the break. I'm going to see dealer to see what's wrong.


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

Just an update. I have 156 000 km and rotated my tires again. This time I took the time to inspect and grease the brake pad slides. My rear pads are just like new....fairly thick pad left with little wear. Thus, my 80 000km wear had to be a mechanical problem, as I have twice the amount with hardly any wear.

Greg


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## Xtrailguy (Mar 9, 2006)

I had a look at mine last weekend. I took the pads out, cleaned up the slides, re-greased and put it back together. The rear pads still looked like new after the winter drive.
I think the key to the rear pad life on these vehicles is proper cleaning/maintenance. It is not a big job. I notice the slides which the pads move on are stainless. I rubbed them with a bit of fine sandpaper, and the cleaned up like new (nice and shiny). 
This weekend I plan to have a look at the front pads and do the same.


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## REAM1 (May 25, 2006)

I have never in my entire life ever replace brake pads to any of my vehicles. I would like to know has anyone replaced there pads on their X Trails?

If so, how easy is it?

Can someone give me the instructions?

REAM1


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## BNB (Aug 21, 2007)

*X-Trail - Rotors*

My 2005 X-Trail with <60,000KM is on its third set of rotors - front and rear (over $1,500). I am told this is highly unusual and frankly I have never owned a vehicle that has gone through rotors and pads like this. The dealer tells me it is uncommon but Nissan (1-800- number) has told me nothing can be done. 

I would like to know if anyone else has had any similar problems with X-Trails and brakes.

Thanks, BNB


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

This seems to be a common issue in Canada, probably due to corrosion causing the pads to bind.


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## Xtrailguy (Mar 9, 2006)

BNB said:


> My 2005 X-Trail with <60,000KM is on its third set of rotors - front and rear (over $1,500). I am told this is highly unusual and frankly I have never owned a vehicle that has gone through rotors and pads like this. The dealer tells me it is uncommon but Nissan (1-800- number) has told me nothing can be done.
> 
> I would like to know if anyone else has had any similar problems with X-Trails and brakes.
> 
> Thanks, BNB


I'm still on my original rotors, and my 2nd set of pads. I think maintenance is the key with the brake system on the XT. I disassemble and clean the sliders on my pads a couple times a year.


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## Cottage Life (Dec 5, 2005)

*Brake Service ??*

I just had my X-trail serviced, and the dealer is trying to tell me that my front brakes are pretty dry causing them to wear prematurely? They suggest a brake service valued at $100 to lubricate the brakes as they would wear.
I only have 48000 km. now I know a little about cars, whats the scoop? This seems like a cash grab to me. My Honda went 125000 km before touching any of the brakes.
Is this just another X-trail Gremlin rearing it's ugly head ? Please, can anybody share their experience in this matter.


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## uk_owner (Jul 3, 2006)

Could be the brake pad sliders need copper slipping?

One brake pad is pressed against the disc by direct pressure from the caliper piston but the other one is pulled against the disc by the pulling action of the caliper as it presses against the first pad.
The brake pads need to have a special high temperature grease added to where the caliper and pads move on their supports, if this is dry it can cause the pads to stick and continually rub against the disc causing premature pad wear.

The pads and caliper slides should be greased when pads are replaced, but I doubt that it was done from the factory (for some reason, it is something that never gets added when the components are put together).
If it's true that your pads are sticking, you may get a squeaking or rubbing noise when moving slowly.

It is hard to tell how long your brake pads will last, depends on driving style and type of driving you do (round town uses more brakes than motorway) and what gearbox you have fitted (auto's require more brake use than a manual) but I would have thought that your pads may not need replacing until you have done about 90,000 km or more?

I hope this helps


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Valboo,

Too many threads are being created for "Brakes" and the information is being repeated in almost all of them. Would you be able to merge them all in one thread?

For those of you posting questions about brake services, please use the forum search to locate existing topics about this, chances are your questions would already be answered there


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## BNB (Aug 21, 2007)

I am in NL as well and have had the regular 'brake check-up' at the dealer. For some reason I can't seem to get over 20000Km on a set of rotors/pads. Like I said even the dealer is puzzled. Sounds like whatever you are doing is working for you.


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## TjC (Jun 11, 2005)

im in cananda i have 51000 kms on my car and im stilll oem brakes and rotors??

weird


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## Ice512 (Oct 16, 2006)

*Brake pad gone already ?!?!?!?!*

Did the 24k check up today, and it says on the report that theres only 30% on the brake pads left, both front and rear.
wtf ?!?!?!? ive only driven the car one year with 24K on it..is it supposed to be this short lasting ??!?!?!?!?  

and one more thing, they say the brake pad is "worped" (cant even find that word in wikipedia) and thats what's causing the vibration when braking...they charged me $190 to do the job. They said they had to remove rust ad re-polish the discs....did i get ripped off ????


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

Ice512 said:


> they say the brake pad is "worped"


Probably mean "warped", i.e. distorted or, more accurately, twisted. Do they mean the pad or the rotor/disc? That's 24K Km? Don't know about the Xt but I usually get 100K+ out of front pads (with a manual box). Wouldn't be too happy with needing brake repairs at 24K on any car.

Not sure what they did or mean by "polishing" the discs. If they meant skimming sounds too cheap by prices here. We pay around $200 an hour labour alone, often with a 1 hour minimum. Car mechanics overtake barristers' hourly rate | Special_reports | Guardian Unlimited Money Average rate at franchised dealers around London is $232 an hour. http://whatcar.com/news-article.aspx?NA=221600


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Ice512 said:


> Did the 24k check up today, and it says on the report that theres only 30% on the brake pads left, both front and rear.
> wtf ?!?!?!? ive only driven the car one year with 24K on it..is it supposed to be this short lasting ??!?!?!?!?
> 
> and one more thing, they say the brake pad is "worped" (cant even find that word in wikipedia) and thats what's causing the vibration when braking...they charged me $190 to do the job. They said they had to remove rust ad re-polish the discs....did i get ripped off ????


The word is Warped Discs (not pads) and it is explained HERE along with the possible causes. One of them is driving style or faulty pistons which may lead to the pads being stuck to the surface of the discs causing them to warp.

They have machined your discs and this will be the last time this can be done, after that, you'll be up for a new set of discs. $190 to have all 4 discs machined sounds OK, but I'd be more worried about what has caused the discs to get damaged so quick.


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

Personally, I wouldn't be happy having warped discs skimmed and certainly not at that mileage. If they don't know the cause, with less metal they're more likely to warp again than they were before. If it was one, two or all four discs it might give a clue. If the car was under warranty and done only 25K I'd want the discs and calipers replaced or me and Nissan would have a row.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

*Torque settings - x-t 2.0 petrol - brakes*

just replacing pads front and rear and disks at front. Cant seem to find the Torque settings on the e-manual.

can someone let me know what the torque settings are for the caliper bolts (to replace pads) and the main caliper to hub bolts (to replace front disks). (any others I might need to).


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Front brake
Sliding pin bolts = 37.3 N.m (3.8 Kg.m or 28 ft.lb)
Torque member to bracket bolts =176.5 N.m (18 Kg.m or 130 ft.lb)


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

ValBoo said:


> Front brake
> Sliding pin bolts = 37.3 N.m (3.8 Kg.m or 28 ft.lb)
> Torque member to bracket bolts =176.5 N.m (18 Kg.m or 130 ft.lb)


thanks Valboo - is that the same for the rear?


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

and removing the disks - is it a question of just welting it with a big hammer - or is there a more subtle aproach?


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

The Mad Hat Man said:


> and removing the disks - is it a question of just welting it with a big hammer - or is there a more subtle aproach?


yep... welting it with a small hammer 


For the Rear brake
Sliding pin bolts = 43.2 N.m (4.4 Kg.m or 32 ft.lb)
Torque member to bracket bolts =86.3 N.m (8.8 Kg.m or 64 ft.lb)


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

Rite - am ready this morning with No1 Universal removal tool!


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## downunder (Nov 6, 2007)

*Nissan is a Dud Car*

I have a pathfinder 2005 and am not happy with it at all i have had to replace my rear brake discs and i am just on 40000km, as per my service at essendon they reckon that is normal wear, but when i asked em how come front ones havent gone b4 the rear ones their excuse is that the rear ones are a lighter material for a AUD$50.000 , you think you would get more stiff S&*T is what they basically said





*
...
...
DownUnder: please go and read you Private Mesages. Signed: ValBoo.
...
...*


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

one of the reasons why I have just changed to EBC 6000 compounds all round. Maybe I did quite well to get 40K miles out of the front discs then.


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## Rockford (Jan 28, 2005)

Well, you can add me to the list. I had my 48,000km service done the other day and was told I'll need new rotors and pads for the rear at 54,000kms. What a joke. I've never replaced rear brakes in ANY vehicle I've owned before but this thing needs them at 50k?
Has anything been done about contacting Nissan (Canada) as a group? At the very least a TSB should be issued.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Alot of people are not happy with the rear brakes on the X-Trail...


And alot of people were/are not happy about the brakes on the Infinity G35...

So much so that G35 owners lauched a class action lawsuit (Google it you'll find)...
.........NISSAN G 35 BRAKE CLASS ACTION

guess what ? ...we share the same disc part number for the rear!!!

I wonder if there is a link?

see below post from another thread:
http://www.nissanforums.com/x-trail/119655-x-trail-braking-system-thread-3.html



ValBoo said:


> Mad-Hat & Jalal,
> 
> I have had a look at the Rossini posted earlier in this thread; the pricing seems exorbitant unless this product is really good...
> 
> ...


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

peculiarly enuf - i had to replace FRONT discs (rotors) not rear - the rears look pretty good still after 40000 miles.

that will kill it!:givebeer:

EBC stuff every time


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## Xtrailguy (Mar 9, 2006)

Finally replacing my rotors at 135,000km. Not bad I guess.


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## Ripasso (Aug 15, 2005)

HI Guys,

I just had the 48 K service today. My brakes are down to 60% in the front and 50% in the rear. I am surprised that the rear are down more than the front. I had them serviced at 24 k and they were fine. Is this average for 48K ? ..............................
Thanks,

Michael


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

Ripasso said:


> I am surprised that the rear are down more than the front.


Would tend to agree. I've never known a car that wears the rear brakes more than the front and can't remember the last time I had to change rear pads. (I suppose they couldn't have meant the fronts had worn 60% rather than that there was 60% left?)

Worth making sure that each pad is wearing evenly or there may be something binding - which could then make damage to the discs more likely.


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Hi Marc, surprisingly enough, none of the Australian xtrail members of my forum (including myself) sufferred from the same issue with the rear pads. Mine lasted over 50,000kms and longer than the front ones. It could well be due to weather conditions in Canada...I'm not sure.


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## TjC (Jun 11, 2005)

well i just hit 56 xxxkms on the X and the front brakes are squeeling like a pig

im waiting on the pad to arrive in store so that i can go install them

jsut a question with the front brakes, when i apply the brake they squeel but when i release the brake it still squeels until i hit 50kms/hr
is this normal?


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

shims or steel/steel contact. It is possible that your pads arent releasing properly from the discs and are stuck against them.


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## TjC (Jun 11, 2005)

just finished replacing the pads yeah the pads where worn and the contacts where hitting

its all good now lol


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## Richd54 (Nov 24, 2007)

Just replaced both rear discs and pads after 18000 miles - one pad sticking and causing wear and scoring on one pad and disc - others were OK. Nissan refused to repair under warranty - NOT IMPRESSED! as I know local Toyota dealer does this free of charge on Rav4s. I won't be buying another Nissan which is a pity as I like the car (X-Trail T-Spec 2.2 diesel).
Richard Davis, Isle of Man U.K.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

so?
I hope yu greased them well?

thats the benefit of doing that sorta work yoself - yu can be sure the job is done proper like.


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

The Mad Hat Man said:


> thats the benefit of doing that sorta work yoself - yu can be sure the job is done proper like.


And save a fortune in the process which you can use on modifcations and accessories


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

yup - as i think i mentioned before...
quote from Nissan front disks and pads plus rear pads - £600.
new EBC disks and pads - <£200.

moral - £400 saved fur about 4 hours work, better quality parts and the knowledge the jobs bin dun proper like


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

One thing that deffo needs doing - the "U" shaped spring clips at the top and bottom of the brake pads need removing, cleaning thoroughly and greasing before re-assembly so that the pads can slide easily to and from the disk - if the pads dont slide easily then the pad backing may need filing to allow this. If the pads cannot slide easily, that will damage you disks in no time.:idhitit:


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## shabalia (Dec 27, 2005)

Thanks for all the info...and scaring me into getting my brakes serviced! I asked them to do the sliders etc. They said there wasn't much wear (I would have liked a %) There is a noticeable difference, smoother braking. He said I should get that service done annually... :fluffy:


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## kxk (Jan 8, 2008)

*x-Trail rear brake failure*

My wife had a failure where the rear brake mechanism siezed and ground the pad down into the rotor at 45,000 KM. She drives well and isn't a brake rider. We had an inspection not too long before this but didn't buy the brake service they suggested. I wasn't impressed. I suggested there is an issue with this vehicles brakes. The dealer said too bad you should have bought the brake service. No warranty. 

I have loss of confidence in the dealer. I guess with Commissioned service reps they run the risk of bad customer satisfaction.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

It would appear that a 6000mile strip and re-grease of the pads and pivot points is called for.


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

There has been a few of us experiencing the brake issue. When I first posted this issue, many thought I was mad not changing my brakes at or before 80000km. I drive mainly on the highway and use my transmission to slow down most of the time. When I had to replace the rear rotors and pads, the dealer (asked two separate dealers) would not cover this under warranty. I didn't debate this as it would be hard to prove. 

I now have 191000km and my rear brakes are still in good shape. Just had my vehicle inspected and asked them to check the pads. The rear still had 50% or more and the front should be good until spring or summer. The front are original pads. Since my first incident I have been removing the pads and cleaning/greasing the slides every time I rotate my tires. Will continue this for now on.

Greg


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## GGG-Man (Jan 31, 2008)

*Front Disc and Pad replacement- plus new Coopers ATR's*

Nissan Brake pads out factory do not have the early warning indicators on them...

87,000kms, Today I had my Front Discs replaced due to worn discs. To my suprise the pads would have lasted longer than the Discs itself. Discs worned below regulation thickness of 26mm, plus had a horobile lip around the Disc. 

Suggest getting the Disc replace with no nissan Discs, as the wear seen should have not happened, which we should question the steel used on originals.

Australian Brake System supplied me with an altenative DISCs which are made for 4x4 vechiles to handle the Extreme Heat from braking when in 4x4 lock mode. (Since no lower get first gear ratio is to high, so constant breaking is required.) Plus I used the Bendict Heavy duty brake pads... 

The Braking difference on the Vechile on the Road was amazingly different. I think you should consider upgrading the Original Discs and Pads from the originals if you are going to be using the vechile off road. Nissan need to move away from releasing the vechile as just a 90% on road vechile.

Total cost was around $450 which included installation. 

Plus, Cooper Tyres 215 R15/75R look really good and give the vechile an extra 20mm lift from standard R15/70R.


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## Manuelgamex (Jan 12, 2007)

Not shure if its being said but...

Yesterday I took the slider pins out of rear calipers & noticed a few things:


*No trace of rust for my Xty but... there's no snow here.

*There are 2 versions of rear calipers, one of them got a large rubber dust cover, the other got a small one, no idea why 2 different kinds, but...

*The one I got is the short one (guess it's the same @ Canada), and it's the worst slider pin rubber cover design I've ever seeing... it isn't tight enough to keep water & of course salt outside.

*There's 2 solutions: 1. Full caliper change (maybe from a totaled Series I) 2. Continuosly cleaning/greasing (more feasible solution).


Wish this could help for our solution.


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## pgames38 (May 12, 2005)

*Rear rotors replaced at 78 000 km*

I just had both rear rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2006 XT SE at 78 000 km ($570, taxes in, Canadian). Unfortunately, the rotors became warped by were not covered under warranty. Anyone else have this misfortune?


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## evjm (Jan 11, 2006)

I had my pads ,front and rear, replaced and front rotors at 70 000km. So I wouldn't say you did too bad. It cost me just over $400 with a wheel alignment. I have a friend with an Envoy, he had to have all his pads and rotors replaced around 50 000km!


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## Mirage17738 (Jun 14, 2005)

I declined to let the dealership replace my brake pads as it seemed too much of a cost. Did them myself using EBC pads, super easy to do and took about 20 mins per corner. There is no specific listing for X-trails, just use the EBC part no's posted before and all good!


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## Claude-XTRAIL (Aug 23, 2007)

Hello!

With 90 000km I have to change my rear brake pads and disks. Thank for the information in this post, I feel confident to do the job my self. As suggest, I will also change my front brake pads to an EBC upgrade.

I live in the Monteal area in Canada and did not found any EBC brake pads (Internet and a few calls). Where should I get them? Is the internet order the best way to go? And for the disks, is the OEM model ok or would you suggest EBC disks?

Thank you,

Claude


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

Here is the place to get yo EBC Brakes n stuff - I went with the EBC disks as well - better quality and cheaper than Nissan OEM products. when yu take the shims off the old pads - make sure you remember (take photos) which way round they go. the EBC 6000 pads are the SUV range - they are designed to reduce dust and brake fade (so they say).


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Hi Claude, 
I agree with "MadHat", I also dealt with EBC direct (online) and they were fantastic... even across the ocean service was fast. :thumbup:

But if you need some alternatives... see my other post (#42 Link) for PBR and Hawk pad part numbers.


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## vickenp (Mar 28, 2007)

*2006 xtrail rear breaks replacement*

Hi guys had our xtrail in for reg servicing at 60k and all went normal but they said the rear breaks (pads/disk) need replacing.

I live in the montreal area.

its a bonavista 4wheel drive.

Think its too early? how much did u pay?

I didn't do it, but would rather take it to my local mechanic and have them do it and save some green

any comments?


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## pulsar86 (Aug 13, 2009)

Unless the rotors are badly warped or grooved they shouldn't need replacing at that milage. There is no way that they would be worn to minimum thickness. I would definately get a second opinion before spending anything. I have never even had to replace a disc rotor on any of my cars due to wear and my current Pulsar has 247000km on it.


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

vickenp said:


> Hi guys had our xtrail in for reg servicing at 60k and all went normal but they said the rear breaks (pads/disk) need replacing.
> 
> I live in the montreal area.
> 
> ...



Hi Vick,
Under canadian weather I would say it is normal... refer to some past posts in this thread.

I would definitely look for after market.
have a look in this thread: http://www.nissanforums.com/x-trail/119655-x-trail-braking-system-thread-3.html

I got my rear discs (EBC, USR 7121) from this place called First Force Performance in Mississauga, Ontario. ($200 CAD inclusive of taxes & shipping).


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## ERBell (Aug 7, 2005)

It's probably better to educate yourself and buy your own brake parts. Most auto manufacturers use cheap brake parts in order to keep prices down. Finding a good pad like the ones mentioned above and rotors Made in North America help too


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## vickenp (Mar 28, 2007)

well got them finally done - NOT at Nissan

2 rear pads and rotors, installed - done $300

can't recall if the pads or rotors were nissan parts, but the other parts (most likely the pads) were jobber

BTW 2 weeks ago a rock slammed the rad and it leaked everything out - Nissan did the rad replacement etc and the bill hit $925 - The rad was next to empty at the dealership

found out the rad itself is a good $700 - confirmed from my local garage buddies

Anyways insurance covered most of this!


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## gpieon (Jun 10, 2008)

Grinding sounds the other day, sure enough drivers side rear, outside pad, metal to metal. 69K on the X. Inside pad was 50%, wear indicator not touching yet. Looks like sliders were pretty messed up. The previous owner had the front done, but not the rear (not a fan of that thinking, but at least have the rears popped and re-greased when the front is done.)

To my point, I am doing a complete rebuild front and rear, getting the calipers treated, new rotors and stainless flex lines. Front flare nut is a PITA. I used heat (propane torch) tons of PB blaster and it won't budge. I am using a flare nut wrench, but the facets are showing signs of wear and I don't want to go farther. It is the front left and I am debating whether I should just order a new line.

Anybody have ideas for dealing with these rusted b*&*&$ches?

p.s. Forget the gym, become a mechanic. After removing six rusted brake bolts holding the torque arms in place (impact socket + 20" breaker bar + LOTS of heat) I am in the best shape of my life, but in pain. When fasteners are in places like this, people should load up on the grease or anti-seize. I use anti-seize or grease on all my mountain bike fasteners. I have never had a problem removing them afterwards.

Cheers all.


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## dchuchu (Oct 14, 2009)

Hi guys,Im an original owner of 2005 X-Trail,After I hit the 60,000 kms.I heard a squeking sound on my brake after I drove it for 10 km or more.I had my mechanic ( not the dealer mechanic) checked and he replaced all 4 pads,he said that my calipers are seized.Cost me 200 bucks for the pads plus 130 for the labor.After few weeks,I can hear these noise at the back(something like grrrrg,grrrrg).I can only starting to hear that noise after driving for about 15 minutes,not on the first 10 minutes of driving.any idea?thanks


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Check the wheel bearing!


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

dchuchu said:


> Hi guys,Im an original owner of 2005 X-Trail,After I hit the 60,000 kms.I heard a squeking sound on my brake after I drove it for 10 km or more.I had my mechanic ( not the dealer mechanic) checked and he replaced all 4 pads,he said that my calipers are seized.Cost me 200 bucks for the pads plus 130 for the labor.After few weeks,I can hear these noise at the back(something like grrrrg,grrrrg).I can only starting to hear that noise after driving for about 15 minutes,not on the first 10 minutes of driving.any idea?thanks



Yes, I have an excellent idea. My wife's X-Trail is having very similar symptoms. It was at the shop (a good independent shop) on Saturday. The mechanic had it on the hoist as his assistant had it running and drove the wheels in AWD. The right side was fine, but on the left side, there was a definite wobble of the brake assembly. The mechanic thinks the rear rotor is warped.

Now, ours has 108k, and is on its second set of rears. The first were replaced by a dealership at ~70k, iirc (because the calipers seized). So, no, we're not pleased to get less than 40k this time around.

I'm looking at options. My mechanic is looking for an AC Delco part. I'm looking for the EBC part. Either way, I'm not going back to OEM.


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## dchuchu (Oct 14, 2009)

Thanks,my mechanic test drove it but he did'nt hear the sound,probably he just drove it for few minutes,he visual checked it but he did'nt see anything wrong.So in the future I'll just drop by at his shop once I hear that sound.


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

In our case, it gets worse once the brakes have been warmed up.


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

I'm managed to find what looks to be a pretty good Canadian source for EBC brake parts:

Performance Auto Parts | FirstForce Performance

I'll warn you - it's not the prettiest site. If you don't have the part numbers handy, they offer a spreadsheet file to find yours, except it must be a US list, because the X-Trail isn't on it. No matter - they seem to be able to get the parts. In the case of the X-Trail rear brakes, I was looking for the USR7172 (slotted) discs (from the G35), and the Greenstuff DP61666 pads (for SUVs). They had the rotors in stock, and they say the pads will be 7-10 days. I'll be picking them up from Mississauga.

The prices are better than I can do from the UK "EBC Direct" store, especially by avoiding shipping two boxes across the pond.

What they don't seem to carry (by their website) are the front discs (D1162). They can get the matching front Greenstuff (DP61247) pads.

Much thanks to Valboo (http://www.nissanforums.com/x-trail/119655-x-trail-braking-system-thread.html#post1231651) for posting his earlier experiences.

As people have been suggesting, I'll be getting my brakes serviced twice each year. The rear sliders and pins, it appears, have a nasty habit of sticking on this vehicle.


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## gpieon (Jun 10, 2008)

*Bleeding Brakes*

I followed the shop manual and bled/flushed as directed using a vacuum pump. Order: RR then LF followed by LR then RF. The pedal feels nice and firm.

There is no mention of the ABS unit. I have done as much I can with my brake rebuild and am I am about to test drive and would like to know if any of the more experienced X-Trail owners, would advise on having a shop do a complete flush. I am concerned about any air that may be in the ABS valves.


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## gpieon (Jun 10, 2008)

Wives come in handy sometimes  Even though i used a vacuum bleeder, I still had some air in the system. I used the wifey and did the buddy sytem bleed. Having pressure in the lines made a difference. Still concerned there may be air in the ABS unit though.


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## White XTrail (Jul 1, 2004)

*Major Brake Overhaul at 112,543 kms*

No very happy  after dropping $1,000 for a brake job today on my 2005 XTrail with 112,543 kms.
Was experiencing some major vibrations when braking coming downhill from the ski hill so took the vehicle in. Three of the four rotors had to be replaced so ending up doing all of them. There were lots of heat striations on the old rotor surfaces, they were warped and they could not resurface them. On the rear, one of the calipers was seized so the brake pad on one side was worn out while the other one was fine. The brake pads were sticky so they were not freely sliding.
Not impressed particularly since I had the front brakes first resurfaced at 74,727 and the front brakes resurfaced at 82,991 kms.
It seems to me that the resurfacing should have lasted more than 30,000kms.
Had the Nissan dealer, same one which did the previous work, do the work. Wondering if that was a smart idea  Also wondering if I should have tried to use some other non-original Nissan parts.
Wondering if others have seen similar issues 
Not happy in Victoria, BC.


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

The first two years of the car,i ve never touched the brakes. The past three years,on every tire changing season(winter begining),i check all the rotors and pads.

Two years ago i ve changed the rear pads, rotors were ok. While the car was up,sort of,checked front rotors and pads too. I think this makes me save a lot on this repairs. 
Don t know if you do some mecanic work on something,but brakes work is extremely easy to do. Some caliper grease and wd-40 help a lot(and a hammer too).
Thanks to you i can show to my wife the money i save doing the job myself,and upgrade my motorcycle for this summer. :givebeer:


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

I fully endorse Otomodo's approach and do the same myself.

It usually is the first topic discussed with new local X-trail enthusiasts;
The brakes, particularly the rear, have to be looked after seasonally.


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## tbk (Dec 29, 2008)

I took it a step further, I taught my wife how to do it. Now I can save money and ride my motorcycle. (it is that easy though)


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

tbk said:


> I took it a step further, I taught my wife how to do it. Now I can save money and ride my motorcycle. (it is that easy though)



Lol! She stays in the kitchen,i ll do the dirty work and ride the motorcycle.


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## tbk (Dec 29, 2008)

My wife thinks cooking and cleaning are two small towns in China.


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## wrtan (May 9, 2010)

Just wondering if anyone have tried this. It cost only fraction of the OEM price but not sure of the quality as I am in Vancouver. Anyone from GTA area have installed or checked this one yet ? thanks for the feedback.
05 06 Nissan X-Trail OE Brake rotors Pads F+R on eBay.ca (item 160400335787 end time 01-Jul-10 02:41:59 EDT)


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## GX-Trailer (May 31, 2015)

Fellow Xyers,

Here in Rio, Brazil, 1ve just had a good cheap (i.e. non-Nissan) brake specialist change the brake fluid on my t30 GX 2.5 petrol, 2007/8 that had done 82,000 km. I had FRASLE pads put in the front, but, due to difficulty in finding them, the rear pads had to be made from the existing ones, that is, if I didn't want to pay a fortune to a Nissan dealer or wait to get them via the local equivalent of e-Bay. I bet few of my fellow members would even consider this solution.

They also offered to change the discs (don't like to call them rotors - that's for helicopters !), but my theory as an unqualified, but reasonably deft, mechanic (ever since that Meccano set !), is that, if they are not worn too thin, once the new pads have bedded in, the scored grooves actually increase the area of contact and so improve braking power. I'd be very interested to hear any mechanical engineer's reaction to this. 

By the way, can anyone tell me what ECB pads are. 

Cheers,
BRIAN


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hey Brian
Isn't ECB a brake part company. Easy to Google.

Finding rear pads for the X trail is easier than the front as they were used in more models. 905 usually appears in the part number.
Here is a list from Rockauto of models using same rear pads. I know you can get those for Sentra there, and probably for the Renaults. I kind of like the fact we share brake pads with a 370Z, not to mention all the infiniti models. 
INFINITI	EX35	(2008 - 2012)
INFINITI	EX37	2013
INFINITI	FX35	(2003 - 2012)
INFINITI	FX37	2013
INFINITI	FX45	(2003 - 2008)
INFINITI	G25	(2011 - 2012)
INFINITI	G35	(2003 - 2008)
INFINITI	G37	(2008 - 2013)
INFINITI	JX35	2013
INFINITI	M35	(2006 - 2010)
INFINITI	M35H	(2012 - 2013)
INFINITI	M37	(2011 - 2013)
INFINITI	M45	(2006 - 2010)
INFINITI	M56	(2011 - 2013)
INFINITI	Q40	2015
INFINITI	Q50	(2014 - 2015)
INFINITI	Q60	(2014 - 2015)
INFINITI	QX50	(2014 - 2015)
INFINITI	QX60	(2014 - 2015)
INFINITI	QX70	(2014 - 2015)
NISSAN	350Z	(2003 - 2009)
NISSAN	370Z	(2009 - 2015)
NISSAN	ALTIMA	(2002 - 2015)
NISSAN	JUKE	(2011 - 2015)
NISSAN	LEAF	(2011 - 2015)
NISSAN	MAXIMA	(2004 - 2015)
NISSAN	MURANO	(2003 - 2015)
NISSAN	PATHFINDER	(2013 - 2015)
NISSAN	QUEST	(2004 - 2015)
NISSAN	ROGUE	(2008 - 2015)
NISSAN	SENTRA	(2007 - 2015)
NISSAN	X-TRAIL	(2002 - 2013)
RENAULT	KOLEOS	(2009 - 2015)
RENAULT	SAFRANE	(2011 - 2014)
SUZUKI	GRAND VITARA	(2009 - 2013)
Please refer to catalog for application details.


Contrary to popular opinion, minimum rotor thickness does not mean they are too thin to stop the car, its the thickness at which point the caliper piston can pop out if the pads are worn to the backing plate. And your theory does make certain sense as the grooves would increase the overall contact area, same way folds work in an air cabin filter! lol.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Of course until the new pads take on the grooves of the rotors, you would have less contact area rather than more. The pads would only be touching the high points and not the valleys. So you would need to be careful until they are fully bedded in.


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## GX-Trailer (May 31, 2015)

Hi QUADRARIA10,

"Like" !!! Many thanks again. As you can see, I'm gradually getting my beast fully serviced. I didn't know about the helpful Rockauto when I had my brakes done, but I'll refer to it for everything from now on. It "rocks"! Although I'm a light braker, I reckon my valleys have been filled by now.

As it's a holiday today, I still haven't received the 2nd cabin filter so that I can choose which is the snugger fit. The 1st doesn't have adhesive foam strips, but it has flaps attached to the lower edge of each side (i was all set to send you a photo, but, like the Ausie Forum, you have to have it on a website first, and I don't. I could, however, email it to you, presuming, of course, it'd be of interest). 

Speaking of photos, I'm very curious to see some images of your X. My address is [email protected] . I could send some of mine (just waiting for good lighting conditions), and, if you like, some of the amazing Gaz69 jeep I had in Ethiopia until it ended up in the hands of Eritrean guerrillas (I was taken hostage in the Danakil Desert and held for 5 months, back in 1976).

Cheers,
BRIAN


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## GX-Trailer (May 31, 2015)

I see what you mean about the 370Z. I'd like to cannibalize its rear pads and, of course, that "gruntful" V6, but, having had a sit-on-the-floor sports car, I wouldn't like to end up with its ground clearance. 
BRI


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## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

Brian, regarding your "grooved disc" discussion - I agree you are likely to have more braking torque..., until the pad material has heated up..., and you will also have quicker pad wear. The micro ridges/mountains/tips of pad material will quickly heat up from the inclined sides, then loose structural strength and get ripped off (thereafter starting all over again...). 

Apart from the reason mentioned by quadraria10, a too thin disc will also heat up quicker, sooner loosing braking efficiency. 

Regards


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