# GC camber plates



## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

I bought some ground control coilovers with kyb shocks and struts. I also got the camber plates when I lower the car everything drops and no longer makes contact with the camber plate causing a bunch of noise. Is this normal, am I missing parts? The coilovers are almost all the way up to avoid this problem, if anyone coul help it would be appreciated.


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## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

What length are your springs? 7"? 
You may need longer ones or to add tender springs if you are going to keep the springs seated.
When the GCs are lowered, what is the car resting on, the strut shafts?
People have used 8", 9", or even 10" ERS springs, but usually to keep the springs seated on rebound, not compression.
Just remember the lowering limit is in the strut, not the spring length.
Maybe you should check out the motivational shortened setup if drivable lowering is the goal.


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

My springs are 7". So I need longer springs.Im thinking 9 in front 8 in the back. The ride quality is not bad where its at. It just the front when it rebounds makes noises and the rear cant go any further than it is, without the same problem as the front. Thanks for the help.


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## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

The longer springs will keep them seated on rebound.
Just don't lower it so much that you bottom out.
You can put a zip tie around your strut shaft at the bottom. Then drive around, later if the zip tie is jammed up in the bump stops, you know you are too low.

Have Fun


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

I called ground control they told me to zip tie the top hat to the spring. The strut will not let it extend that far unless you are rallying. The only reason to get bigger springs is if the spring is all the way up and the car is not high enough. Does anyone know about this


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## SHigSpeed (Apr 30, 2002)

Longer springs will NOT keep the springs seated in rebound. The length of the spring does not change the amount of initial "squish" the spring sees when the car is let down on them. All you'll end up doing is moving the lower perch down the strut the extra length of the new spring. What it WILL get you though is more available travel prior to coilbind. 

The helper springs may work, but try the zipties first...

-Scott


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