# engine cranks but doesn't start



## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

i just bought a 92 240sx twin cam from my friend and i tried starting it and it cranks but it doesn't want to start so i checked if there's sparks and fuel and found out that d fuel pump is broken so i replaced it to a new one and still won't start .i checked the sparkplug wires ,coil and igniter and im geting sparks but when i tookout the spark plugs i dont smell gas on them it looks like the injectors are not opening .do you guys think that it has to do with the maff sensor?

BTW im geting 11and 13 engine code


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Code 11 - crankshaft position sensor
Code 13 - coolant temperature sensor

The crankshaft position sensor controls the ignition firing and the fuel injector firing. It's the cause of your starting problem. Check it's harness connector.


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

where can i find the crankshaft position sensor?is it in the distributor?cause i changed it already


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## DriftX (Mar 29, 2007)

If your getting air, fuel, spark and timing it should run. Something is bad in your distributor and the computer is not referencing it.


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

i noticed that every time i spray starting fluid it doesn't fire up it looks like that the secondary butterlfy is not opening.maybe im not geting air or something


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jdmwong said:


> where can i find the crankshaft position sensor?is it in the distributor?cause i changed it already


The sensor is in the distributor. Check the harness connector pins for any oxidation on them. Why did you change out the distributor?


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

*240*



rogoman said:


> The sensor is in the distributor. Check the harness connector pins for any oxidation on them. Why did you change out the distributor?


i change the distributor cause when i opened it it's coroded inside. but when i chaged it to the new one the other day it looks like the injectors are firing up and the sparks are good and im not geting 11engine code anymore but im still geting 13 and still wont start. btw when i took out the plugs to check if theres gas spraying inside. the gas smells funny.do you guys think that the reason why it wont start is because of the gas?


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## DriftX (Mar 29, 2007)

well it should run on bad gas, just very crappy.


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## DriftX (Mar 29, 2007)

rogoman said:


> The sensor is in the distributor. *Check the harness connector pins for any oxidation on them*. Why did you change out the distributor?


good idea


lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.

I'm going through the same thing. No starting, will roll over but no spark. Coil is good and dizzy is brand new. Got an ignitor comming tommarrow, going to see if that fixes it. If not the only other thing it could be in the crank angle sensor not being referenced.


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

DriftX said:


> good idea
> 
> 
> lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.
> ...


i already check the wiring and im geting sparks and fuel its flooded already but still won't start


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

where's the choke plate located at?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

There is no choke mechanism in electronic fuel injection systems. The ECU provides fuel enrichment during cold starts; this is governed by the coolant temperature sensor.

In your case, the ECU is posting a fault code of 13 which means a problem with the temperature sensor. Generally a bad temperature sensor will cause the ECU to provide an overly rich mixture.

If you got spark and fuel, then the ignition timing may be wrong since you changed out the distributor.


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

rogoman said:


> There is no choke mechanism in electronic fuel injection systems. The ECU provides fuel enrichment during cold starts; this is governed by the coolant temperature sensor.
> 
> In your case, the ECU is posting a fault code of 13 which means a problem with the temperature sensor. Generally a bad temperature sensor will cause the ECU to provide an overly rich mixture.
> 
> If you got spark and fuel, then the ignition timing may be wrong since you changed out the distributor.



im gonna change the coolant temp sensor tomorow. but how do you know if it's in the right ignition timing because when i change the distributor i lined up the marks and the rotor is pointing on #1 cylinder and i re checked the timing chain as well


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## b-inky (Feb 13, 2007)

DriftX said:


> good idea
> 
> 
> lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.
> ...



funny im getting the same thing, turns over but no spark. only i havent changed out my distributor yet.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jdmwong said:


> im gonna change the coolant temp sensor tomorow. but how do you know if it's in the right ignition timing because when i change the distributor i lined up the marks and the rotor is pointing on #1 cylinder and i re checked the timing chain as well


It pays to recheck the ignition timing since the car is unable to start up. 

Here's how to check the timing:

First you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the COMPRESSION STROKE in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug and disconnect the ignition coil wire. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you hand or thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise by hand until it's pointing to ZERO. Now determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block, meshing the gears so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.

Before starting the motor, set up a timing light so that you can set the timing to spec. Disconnect the TPS harness connector. It's located on the passenger's side of the engine just above the throttle assembly. Start engine and set timing to 20 degrees BTDC.


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

so to find the TDC the pointer has to be pointing on the first line to the left of the pulley cause i always point it on the second line to the left. can you please post of a picture of the pulley or something that shows the TDC mark of the pulley. im kinda new to the 240 motor thats why.thanks


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## b-inky (Feb 13, 2007)

jdmwong said:


> so to find the TDC the pointer has to be pointing on the first line to the left of the pulley cause i always point it on the second line to the left. can you please post of a picture of the pulley or something that shows the TDC mark of the pulley. im kinda new to the 240 motor thats why.thanks



the tdc pointer has to be pointing to the second mark on the pulley. i dont have a picture of it. but looking at the marks from left to right it is the second most one. hope this helps


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Here's a picture:


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

i re timed it today and it strated. but the only thing is i have to advanced the distributor all the way just to make it start but if i move it to retard it doesn't want to start. do you guys think that the timing is off?and what emission can i take out from the engine?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

You'll have to pull the distributor out just enough to go one tooth clock-wise or counter clock-wise so that you can get a full range of adjustment.

If you remove all possible emission control devices, the net HP increase will be ZERO and the motor may not run properly according to what you pull off. However you may fail state emissions testing according to what state your car is registered.

Hey, let's keep our planet green by NOT removing emission devices!


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## jdmwong (Apr 5, 2007)

rogoman said:


> You'll have to pull the distributor out just enough to go one tooth clock-wise or counter clock-wise so that you can get a full range of adjustment.
> 
> If you remove all possible emission control devices, the net HP increase will be ZERO and the motor may not run properly according to what you pull off. However you may fail state emissions testing according to what state your car is registered.
> 
> ...


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## DriftX (Mar 29, 2007)

That's an easy fix. Timing isn't that hard as people make it. Now when you find chewed up wires and bad grounds with poped relays and resistors like I did on mine, it gets to be a pain in the ass.


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## alyse05 (Sep 29, 2014)

DriftX said:


> That's an easy fix. Timing isn't that hard as people make it. Now when you find chewed up wires and bad grounds with poped relays and resistors like I did on mine, it gets to be a pain in the ass.


hey i have that same problem with my 240 where i have chewed up parts and one of my ground wires is bad but i also have a different harness for the motor do you think that could be the case as well? it is a pain in the ass im new to the 240 too the car had an engine swap to a twin cam but kept the same harness for the single cam motor. do you mind helping me out?


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