# Looking to buy 05 or 06 Pathfinder. Issues?



## Jedgell (May 18, 2012)

I've been looking to buy a 2005 or 2006 Pathfinder. Thereare a couple I'm interested in, both with 70k miles. My question is what are the real common problems with these? All i read about is how bad and unreliable they are. Just about all the reviews on Edmunds are negative. I find this hard to believe. The transmission issue i can live with, by doing the bypass, its all the other things I'm more worried about. Thanks in advance!


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## dostrowsky (Mar 23, 2012)

We just purchased a 2006 and from my research, the issues seemed to be Fuel Sending unit, Radiator, Timing chain tensioner. I can also tell you, after taking posession we found that the AC lines for the rear AC were corroded and this was a $1500 touch to replace. Luckily I only had to pay $400 for the parts. I don't think this is a Nissan exclusive problem, I beleive every vehicle with rear AC has issues with the aluminum lines corroding. The Pathfinder, unfortunately requires the body to be lifted from the frame to replace the lineset.

All in all we love it so far! Owned for about 4 months.


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## Chriscross (Jun 8, 2012)

we have just purchased a 2005 pathy and are wrapped with it
fuel economy isnt great but what do you expect from a v6 with 150k on the clock
the aircon was stuck on high (cannot remember name of part) but it cost us $400 and was easy to install ourselves - just under dash

we have just noticed too that the passenger floor is getting wet 
our mechanic reckons that 9/10 its the windscreen but we have just had that replaced and he checked and its not that

its also nothing to do with AC as you would be swimming in the front seat

so ill check the windscreen drain this weekend

nice and sturdy nissan!!!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I worked as a Nissan tech for 16 years (former Master Tech) until 10/2003. I purchased a 2006 LE last year with 84K miles on it and now it's at 98K mi. My opinion is that it was a great design that was poorly executed in manufacturing. It's a good looking vehicle with a full frame. The VQ40DE at 270HP is a strong running engine and the 5spd. AT shifts well and gives decent gas mileage on the highway if you go easy on the gas and use cruise control whenever possible. On a long, highway trip, you can expect 19-21 MPG with a 4WD model and regular gas; Nissan recommends premium fuel for maximum performance, but I've noticed no change in gas mileage using it and minimal gain in performance. There are two different transfer cases; you have the standard transfer case and the "Auto mode" transfer case, which comes in the LE. The nice thing about the Auto mode is that you can leave it in "Auto" and it will engage the 4WD during hard takeoffs or when slipping is detected by the wheel sensors and wil return it back to 2WD during normal conditions. It uses a wet clutch and can deliver partial or full application of the front wheels as needed. The Bose audio system sounds great, but can be a pain to upgrade as its speakers are 1-ohm, compared to 4 ohm impedance of most aftermarket speakers. This means if you want to upgrade your system, plan on replacing everything: audio deck, amp(s) and speakers. The LE features woodgrain (plastic) compared to the silver of other models, and the heated leather seats are a big improvement over the cloth seats. The ride of the vehicle is good, but can get unsettled over bumpy roads. The rear suspension is well known for bottoming out, especially when loaded heavy or towing. This can be fixed, however. First thing to do is to replace the rear shocks with a monotube design. Bilstein HD shock absorbers are the most popular, but Monroe Reflex and KYB Gas-a-just should also perform well. Next, many people will swear by Airlift 1000 air bags in the rear. A set of two can be purchased for around $85 from Amazon.com. The airbags fit inside the rear coil springs and have lines that go to one or two shraeder valves; most go with seperate valves for each of the airbags. 10-15 psi is usually good for everyday driving, but can be increased for a firmer ride or for towing to keep the rear from "sagging." It also reduces a lot of the "body roll" when going around curves. The vehicle has good ground clearance and is very capable off-road. Also, if you want the powerful 5.6L V8, you'll have to get a 2008 or later R51. In 2008, they extended the nose approx. 3" to accomodate the V8. 

Then, there are the problems! Fuel sending units have failed and most are covered under a recall. The Calsonic made radiators have had problems with the trans cooler tube in the bottom tank cracking, which can cause coolant to enter the trans line and ruin the transmission. Nissan extended the warranty to 8 yrs./80000 miles, but many of these occur after the 80000 mile mark. There are several class action lawsuits in the works and consumer groups petitioning the NHTSA for a recall. Most have done the "bypass" procedure. My only issue with that is that the radiator cooler not only cools the trans fluid, but it also warms it as needed. ATF should be kept around 175 degrees F. My decision was to get an aftermarket radiator and replace the OEM unit (you can get aftermarket rads for as low as $92 on Ebay, or, if you want to get "serious," Griffen is making all aluminum radiators for around $500...which is only a little more than a genuine Nissan radiator replacement). When I did it, I also replaced the 4 foam seals that attach to the radiator and its side brackets (Note: replacing the radiator was a PITA!). The next "big" problem is the plastic "shoes" of the upper timing chain tensioners which wear through prematurely and cause a "whining" noise as the chain starts grinding the steel plunger of the tensioner. The secondary chains have been made 'smoother,' I've been told and the tensioner 'shoes' updated, although IMO, they are still pretty 'cheesy.' I've heard Borg-Warner is making the new tensioner shoes, which doesn't really make me feel better considering their aftermarket part line is pretty much 'service grade' from what I've experienced. So, the fix is to replace the two upper timing chains and install new upper tensioner shoes, along with necessary seals and gaskets. It's a $1200-1500 repair at a shop. Another issue is belt squeek due to failing tensioners. There was a TSB on this; fix is a new, updated tensioner and a new serpentine belt. There have been some problems with the AC and coolant lines to the rear cooling unit rotting out. Nissan dealers usually replace the entire rear line set, which requires lifting the body off of the frame. Some have capped off the rear lines. Line repair kits, like Dorman Products 800-600 kit, can repair sections of the lines. Some have used heater hose to fix coolant lines. There's a shop in Canada that replaces the aluminum lines with heavy duty hose and fittings. There have been problems with poor grounding causing numerous problems and code settings. There's a TSB on this instructing to clean a number of grounds. Some are easy to get to (most in the engine compartment aren't hard to get to) and some are a real pain, as they are behind the dash. I had this issue with mine; you'll get a CAN comm code and any number of other various codes for various systems. Mine had the CAN comm code and TPMS lamp "on," a 4WD system code and speed sensor codes and hard shifts. Also, my freeze frame data did not match that stated on the TSB, but cleaning the grounds has appeared to fix the problem (it's been 5 months without an issue). Also, be aware that any time you disconnect the battery you may have to reset the steering wheel position sensor and relearn the idle air volume, which requires a capable scantool. There have been a number of P0420/430 trouble codes due to catalytic converter failure; they run about $600 each + labor. The conventional EGR system has been replaced with an EGR system that used the variable valve timing to partially open the exhaust valve on the intake stroke to suck inert exhaust gas back into the engine, rather than introduce it to the intake manifold via an EGR valve. The problem lies if the catalyst media (or "substrate") inside the converter starts to break down, ala the 2002-2004 Altima and Sentra QR25DE engines. When this happens, the tiny bits of catalyst media can get sucked into the combustion chamber and score the walls of the cylinder, creating an oil-burning motor and potentially ruining the upstream catalytic converters, as well. There have been vibration issues, some caused by failing U-joints and some caused by failing engine motor mounts (TSB's on both of these issues). As these vehicles get older, wind noise can be an issue as the weather seal around the door get compressed; fix is new door seals at approx. $100 each. There have been some transfer case leak issues (TSB on this concern, as well). The latches on the center console have been known to break as well as the rear console cup holder (yup...both have TSB's). ECM relays were a problem, but they've been recall and the new relays are cheap. There have been noise issues due to the front stabilizer bar mount bushings, which have been upgraded. There have been a number of steering columns that have had to be replaced when the bearings came apart and jammed the column; play in the steering wheel is a sign of this. Some people that have had alignments performed have found that the control arm bushings had seized to the bolts, causing them to have to replace the rear control arm(s). There has been recalls on the front control arms and front crash sensor for the airbag system. There have been problems with the driver's power seat motor and the passenger seat recliner on some Pathys. There has also been some problems with water from the AC evaporator drain leaking inside; fix is to add a hose to the drain (TSB on this, as well). There have also been reported problems with the Navi system in some vehicles. 

One of the advantages of purchasing an early R51 now is that hopefully the previous owner had a majority of the major problems repaired already. That was the case in my purchase and why Carfax is a good thing! I really like my Pathfinder, but can understand why people are so disgusted with their vehicle. Imagine spending $30000-40000 on a new vehicle and having a number of the 'common' problems I've listed? Unless my dealer was A1-top notch in regards to addressing the concerns, I'd never buy another Nissan again! I can see myself being perfectly content in a Toyota FJ Cruiser!  My advice is to carefully check out any 2005-2010 Pathfinder you look at! Have an independant mechanic look it over carefully, especially the trans fluid and operation, rear AC and coolant lines and signs of timing chain noise! Get a Carfax and any service documentation available. It can be a vehicle you'll love or a vehicle you'll end up hating!


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## DaveEDM (Oct 8, 2012)

Thanks smj999smj for the info. 

I bought a 2012 Pathfinder S four months ago. Frankly speaking, if I was aware of there were so many quality issues with the Pathy R51, it would has been taken off my list. No issue with my 2012 Pathy so far, but I really curious if Nissan has addressed most of the above problems for the 2012 model year, especially the coolant leaking into transmission, and the secondary timing chain whining noise problems.

Thanks in advance.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The best year to buy, IMO, is the last year of a model run because all or most of the "bugs" have been corrected by then. The radiators affect 05-10 models, so you should be fine. You should also have the updated secondary timing chains, as well. Only issue I have heard on the 2012 models is on the 2WD versions; they just released a recall due to potential front hub failure. 4WD versions are not affected.


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## Kalbo121 (Jan 23, 2016)

I have an 06 pathfinder. We bought it used back in 2009. Since then, we have had problems with it.

1) internal leak in the radiator causing coolant to mix with the transmission fluid. Luckily, we had the problem before the extended warranty went out. The dealer replaced both radiator and tranny.

2) the plastic shoe on the upper timing chain tensioner wore off causing the engine to whine. That occurred at 80,800 miles and so Nissan won't cover it under warranty anymore. The dealer wanted $2,300.00 to fix it. I paid $120.00 for the tensioner shoe and new upper timing chains and did the work myself.

3) there was a recall on the ECM so the dealer replaced it.

4) the fuel pump became defective because of a design flaw so I had to take down the fuel tank to replace it. It keeps reading empty even though I just filled up the tank.

5) at present, our pathfinder stalled on us while driving in the city on 3 different occasions. It's been hard to start it since then. I borrowed an OBD II code reader and got P0420 and P0430 from it. I'm looking at replacing the two upstream O2 sensors and probably the two downstream also and maybe the two front Catalytic Converters. They're not cheap.

One thing positive about the vehicle, the body is sturdy compared to other Japanese vehicles which crumple easily.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Keep in mind something that will cause the engine to not run right or stall can cause catalyst codes to trigger, even though there is nothing wrong with the converters. I would take a look at why it's stalling before spending money to replace the front converters. Also, rear oxygen sensors are only monitoring sensors and have nothing to do with engine performance or fuel management; they will not cause stalling issues.


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## curvecrazy (Feb 17, 2012)

smj999smj said:


> Then, there are the problems! Fuel sending units have failed and most are covered under a recall. The Calsonic made radiators have had problems with the trans cooler tube in the bottom tank cracking, which can cause coolant to enter the trans line and ruin the transmission. Nissan extended the warranty to 8 yrs./80000 miles, but many of these occur after the 80000 mile mark. There are several class action lawsuits in the works and consumer groups petitioning the NHTSA for a recall. Most have done the "bypass" procedure. My only issue with that is that the radiator cooler not only cools the trans fluid, but it also warms it as needed. ATF should be kept around 175 degrees F. My decision was to get an aftermarket radiator and replace the OEM unit (you can get aftermarket rads for as low as $92 on Ebay, or, if you want to get "serious," Griffen is making all aluminum radiators for around $500...which is only a little more than a genuine Nissan radiator replacement). When I did it, I also replaced the 4 foam seals that attach to the radiator and its side brackets (Note: replacing the radiator was a PITA!). The next "big" problem is the plastic "shoes" of the upper timing chain tensioners which wear through prematurely and cause a "whining" noise as the chain starts grinding the steel plunger of the tensioner. The secondary chains have been made 'smoother,' I've been told and the tensioner 'shoes' updated, although IMO, they are still pretty 'cheesy.' I've heard Borg-Warner is making the new tensioner shoes, which doesn't really make me feel better considering their aftermarket part line is pretty much 'service grade' from what I've experienced. So, the fix is to replace the two upper timing chains and install new upper tensioner shoes, along with necessary seals and gaskets. It's a $1200-1500 repair at a shop. Another issue is belt squeek due to failing tensioners. There was a TSB on this; fix is a new, updated tensioner and a new serpentine belt. There have been some problems with the AC and coolant lines to the rear cooling unit rotting out. Nissan dealers usually replace the entire rear line set, which requires lifting the body off of the frame. Some have capped off the rear lines. Line repair kits, like Dorman Products 800-600 kit, can repair sections of the lines. Some have used heater hose to fix coolant lines. There's a shop in Canada that replaces the aluminum lines with heavy duty hose and fittings. There have been problems with poor grounding causing numerous problems and code settings. There's a TSB on this instructing to clean a number of grounds. Some are easy to get to (most in the engine compartment aren't hard to get to) and some are a real pain, as they are behind the dash. I had this issue with mine; you'll get a CAN comm code and any number of other various codes for various systems. Mine had the CAN comm code and TPMS lamp "on," a 4WD system code and speed sensor codes and hard shifts. Also, my freeze frame data did not match that stated on the TSB, but cleaning the grounds has appeared to fix the problem (it's been 5 months without an issue). Also, be aware that any time you disconnect the battery you may have to reset the steering wheel position sensor and relearn the idle air volume, which requires a capable scantool. There have been a number of P0420/430 trouble codes due to catalytic converter failure; they run about $600 each + labor. The conventional EGR system has been replaced with an EGR system that used the variable valve timing to partially open the exhaust valve on the intake stroke to suck inert exhaust gas back into the engine, rather than introduce it to the intake manifold via an EGR valve. The problem lies if the catalyst media (or "substrate") inside the converter starts to break down, ala the 2002-2004 Altima and Sentra QR25DE engines. When this happens, the tiny bits of catalyst media can get sucked into the combustion chamber and score the walls of the cylinder, creating an oil-burning motor and potentially ruining the upstream catalytic converters, as well. There have been vibration issues, some caused by failing U-joints and some caused by failing engine motor mounts (TSB's on both of these issues). As these vehicles get older, wind noise can be an issue as the weather seal around the door get compressed; fix is new door seals at approx. $100 each. There have been some transfer case leak issues (TSB on this concern, as well). The latches on the center console have been known to break as well as the rear console cup holder (yup...both have TSB's). ECM relays were a problem, but they've been recall and the new relays are cheap. There have been noise issues due to the front stabilizer bar mount bushings, which have been upgraded. There have been a number of steering columns that have had to be replaced when the bearings came apart and jammed the column; play in the steering wheel is a sign of this. Some people that have had alignments performed have found that the control arm bushings had seized to the bolts, causing them to have to replace the rear control arm(s). There has been recalls on the front control arms and front crash sensor for the airbag system. There have been problems with the driver's power seat motor and the passenger seat recliner on some Pathys. There has also been some problems with water from the AC evaporator drain leaking inside; fix is to add a hose to the drain (TSB on this, as well). There have also been reported problems with the Navi system in some vehicles. !


I just wanted to say that this is an excellent summary of trouble areas on 2005-2010 pathfinders. 

A few questions.

How likely is it to have issues with the catalytic converter catalyst and oil burning on a 2005 pathfinder? 
The front stabilizer bar mount bushings there's a mention here of recall... On my 2005 I'm getting pretty pronounced clunking from the front end which I was assuming was the front struts being worn out. Is it possible it's the bushings and is this actually a recall?
I had the problem with the fuel sender and the aluminum AC lines corroding. Fuel sender under warranty. In my case the AC lines occurred very early in the vehicle life and the dealer refused to take care of it under warranty quoting $1200. I had a local radiator/AC shop delete the rear portion of the AC. I also bypassed the original radiator transmission oil warmer/cooler and then replaced the radiator when that went. Yes, absolutely a PITA replacing the radiator I couldn't agree more I was cursing up a storm furious. WTcompleteF*** is this BS? All they had to do was have a set in bracket for the rad to go down into instead I was literally fighting trying to get the new rad in properly. This is one of the reasons I'm not keen on doing timing chain tensioners because not wanting fool with that again!!! My O2 sensor got lax on the left bank which caused the enrichening of the fuel to 30% or so on that side damaging the converter in the process. I cleaned all my engine compartment grounds but was unaware of grounds behind the dash so that's good info there. 

I heard recently that rear axles go on Xterras and wondering if that applies to pathfinder LE's too....


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Catalytic converters on R51 Pathfinders usually become inefficient when the fail, causing the P0420/P0430 codes to trigger. There have been a couple of cases where the converters have broken apart inside and caused scoring of the cylinder walls and an oil-burning engine, but they are not common (they are more common on VQ35DE-powered, R50 Pathfinders).

The front stabilizer mount bushings were not recalled, but addressed by a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). TSB's are used to inform Nissan Techs of common problems Nissan is seeing, notification of updated parts or certain software updates and procedures. They do not constitute extended warranty coverage or recall status. The TSB for the stabilizer bushings was NTB10-072a. You can download it at NissanHelp.com:

Nissanhelp.com Forums

The bushings for R51 Pathfinders with the V6 are P/N: 54613-ZL10A. They are not expensive from Nissan and the difference is where they placed the split in the bushing; it is no longer on the flat side that mounts against the crossmember but in the corner and running diagonally. Looking at the pics of the bushings at Rockauto.com, it looks like Beck~Arnley #1017997 and MAS #BSK70100 have the updated design.. In fact, it looks like the Beck~Arnley is using the actual Nissan part going by the Nissan part number on the side of the bushing. They aren't hard to replace, either. I believe the bolts on the brackets were 17 MM and you'll want to coat the inside of the bushing where it contacts the sway bar with some white lithium grease.

If you do need struts and are looking for a good, stock, direct-replacement, then I highly recommend KYB Strut-plus #SR4203 , which currently has a $40 Visa pre-paid card rebate when you purchase 2 by 09/30/2017. KYB is the OE supplier of the struts on these vehicles. They carry a limited lifetime warranty and I think they run about $265/pair with shipping.

The rear A/C line issue is caused when sand gets under the rubber insulators and wear through the pipe's finish, causing it to corrode and leak. If the area is accessible, the pipe can actually be repaired using an aluminum pipe repair kit. Initially, Nissan was replacing the entire line set, but then they got repair kits force-shipped to them to do the repairs. Most GM dealers have this kit, as well, and well-equipped, independent shops.

If you replaced the radiator, you can reconnect the trans cooler lines. The contamination issues haven't been a problem with aftermarket radiators or the updated Nissan units. The radiator does not need to be removed to do the timing chains, only the shrouds and fans. However, I would suggest cutting a piece of cardboard to install on the back side of the radiator core while doing the job protect it against accidental impact while doing the job. 

The rear axle seal issues with the Frontiers and Titans do no apply to the R51 Pathfinders. The Pathfinders have an independent rear suspension with CV half-shafts, which is different than the Frontier's straight-axle.

Hope this answer all your questions!


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