# Sentra CV Joint



## Backyard Mech (Aug 3, 2005)

Hello All, Iamb new to this board. I have a 1992 Sentra E model.
I need to do the CV joints and trans ax on my car.
I have never tackled this job yet, but I think that it's inside my range.
Can anyone give me any pointers. I'm basically going by the repair manual and my instincts.


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

Try the Sentra section for pointers on a job.... this is more a "tools talk" area where we brag about our stuff.


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## I'm tired of my usernamee (Feb 16, 2004)

tip #1 Loosen the axle nut with the wheel still on the ground, but dont remove it. You'll need a very long extension.

tip#2 if the circlips are stuck in the tranny, Im almost positive that if that happens you'll be taking a trip to the shop to have the axles pressed out. 

good luck, its a PITA.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

never had the lock ring pop off a axle, then again its not like ive done a million buuut for sentra axles its really easy, like said before crack the axle nut loose first then jack the car up , take the strut bolts off that hold the hub assembely together. make sure to unclip the brake line from the bracket. pull the outer cv joint out with some twisting and tugging, then pop it out of the tranny with a pry bar of some sort even though sometimes a good tug is all it takes, then can be a pain. o yea and drain your tranny fluid unlessu want it to drip out why u have the axles out. the drain plug is a bolt thast flush to the tranny case and has no head on it but rather a notch that fits a half inch drive wratch, good luck


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## 92&93sentra (Apr 29, 2005)

I went through this recently, and it was a major pain. The biggest problem I had was with the replacement drive axle I bought at the local parts store. The splines on the re-built unit were damaged and they would not slide into the mating splines in the transmission. I many hours thinking that I was doing something wrong, when the real problem was the replacement part. I eventually returned the rebuilt replacement drive axles and bought new ones. The new ones slide in nicely. Also, I tore the ball joint boot when disconnecting the ball joint from the lower control arm. To replace the boot you need to buy an entire lower control arm assembly. (After finishing the job I was not even sure I really needed to disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm.)


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

no u dont, with the right tugging and manuvering the axel end comes out especially when u disconnect the shock from the hub assembely, sorry u had to go through all that trouble but now u know


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## Astrin (Apr 4, 2005)

Cardone Select is a good option. They're new shafts and cost less than most remanufactured shafts. They seem to be a bit higher quality than the stock ones as well. Best thing is that there's no core costs.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

Slacky said:


> no u dont, with the right tugging and manuvering the axel end comes out especially when u disconnect the shock from the hub assembely, sorry u had to go through all that trouble but now u know


works awesome this way...makes for a really quick removal and install. ive always had better luck with OEM nissan axles than remans.


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## B13boy (Dec 16, 2004)

Aftermarket Axles are usually cheap for a reason. I have had several sets of "lifetime warranty" axles in another car of mine. All the money I saved on the axles has gone out the door with having to change the axles multiple times because they click. Pay $99 now spend countless hours wasting time replacing them for the "lifetime" of the vehicle. Figure your stock ones lasted this long, almost 15yrs. The factory ones are new and so they are expensive. The factory part numbers are [RH 39100-60Y10][LH 39101-60Y10] they retail for $445.71 each but are $356.57 each via nissanparts2u.com, still expensive but about $90 cheaper each!


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