# 97 HB Alternator/Battery Electrical Issues?



## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

I everyone! Thanks to everyone that posts. I've learned a lot here.

Here's my truck:
1997 Nissan Pickup Kingcab
4 Cyl 2.4L.

I wasn't sure how to title this. Anyways, here's the story:

Driving one night and got the classic dead alternator symptoms (Break and Battery Lights and everything acting crazy). I purchased a new Alternator from Advanced Auto and put it in. A couple days later My truck started to lose power or die when driving. I found that my negative battery cable was loose so I purchased some shims to tighten it up. This helped for a little while till it would run for only a minute then my truck would die. (Also added a new belt)

I purchased a new battery. That didn't help. I took out the Alternator and had them test it in the store. The test showed it was good. So I put it back in and had it towed to the mechanic (It wouldn't even run half a mile on the battery). I was thinking it was a wiring issue so I took it to the mechanic. They told me it was the alternator. I had them use the warranty on the Alternator and I paid them labor. 

That worked great for about 3 weeks. Then my truck died again. I took it back to the mechanic for a diagnostic. They told me again that it was the Alternator. They told me there was nothing causing them to go bad, they are just crappy refurbs in the auto store.

So I replaced this alternator myself. Charged the battery by driving around some and to turn in the core. My truck died in the parking lot of the store. I checked the neg battery cable and it was loose. I got a new connector to the battery and jumpstarted the truck. Drove around for a while then tested the battery. The truck wouldn't start. After jumping it again I let it run for a good 2 hours before trying. It started up fine. I went around town to a few places to see if it would hold up. Worked fine till I was headed home on the interstate. 

My dash dimmed slightly, possibly my headlights, and cigarette plug stopped working. I tested something by turning on the heat and that killed the radio. If I turned off the heat that radio would turn back on. After getting home I turned off the truck and tried to restart. It wouldn't turn on.

I can still turn on the headlights, and other standard battery related things. 

So my next step is to see if my battery is shot. It's pretty new so I doubt it's the problem. 

Sorry for the super long story. I just wanted to be as detailed as I could and maybe something from the past stuff might be a clue. 

Here's a short breakdown of what has been done:

1. new alternator (replaced by me)
2. new battery
3. new belt (me)
4. added battery post shims
5. new alternator (replaced by mechanic.)
6. new alternator (replaced by me)
7. new negative battery connector thing.

*Current problem*

My battery doesn't seem to charge. But if not why would it have started a few times before?

Could it be the battery if (While truck is running) I turn on the heat and the radio dies and the dash lights are dim? Shouldn't these things work fine if the truck is running regardless of battery condition?


If anyone has any ideas that would be fantastic. This is driving me crazy! If this is the 3rd bad alternator in a row?! I'm going to just have to pay the insane amount for the mechanic to do it unless someone out there has any good ideas.

Thanks!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Trozdol said:


> If anyone has any ideas that would be fantastic. This is driving me crazy! If this is the 3rd bad alternator in a row?!


If the alternator have been from Advance Auto? Yes...

Get yourself a voltmeter for chrissakes and learn how to use it! You'll save literally hours and hours of time by using it. Even one of those cheap ones that plugs into the cigarette lighter. Anything. They don't call them "idiot lights" for no reason ya know...


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## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

Thanks for the reply!

So with a voltmeter I'd be checking to make sure enough power is being put out by the alternator? Is that how it would work in the cigarette plug, etc?

I also had my battery tested today and it came back good. 

Any recommendations on where to get a alternator that'll actually work?

Sorry if that's a stupid question all this is pretty new to me. 

Thanks!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Your aren't checking the power coming out of the alternator. You're checking to make sure the alternator is maintaining system voltage at a level high enough to prevent the battery from draining. And I say cigarette lighter socket because it's easy to get to. Otherwise, tap the positive lead of the meter to one of the fuses somewhere and the negative lead to a good ground, such as maybe the brake pedal arm itself, or maybe the shift lever.
So...with that being said...
Tooling down the road...better be minimum of 13+ volts.
At a stoplight idling, probably around the high 12's.
Engine off, key off, etc. should start around 13v dropping down over time a bit, steadying out around high 12's. Turn on the headlights, blower motors, step on the brake pedal, etc. and it'll probably drop to about 10 or so.
Alternators...well, as long as those ones you've been getting have lifetime warranties and they're not too hard to change out, I'd go with it, but that's just me and I don't mind silly work like that. Otherwise, get genuine Nissan parts.
And while you're at it, get a Haynes manual or Chilton's manual or something. *ALL* of your questions so far could've been easily answered with a simple read.


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## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

Thanks! I picked up a multimeter last night and just tested it on the battery while idling. Got 12.3v. I'll try it out on the fuses like you said. This is making so much more sense now. 

In the meantime I've been letting my truck run for a while before I go anywhere or leave it parked for a extended amount of time. Seems like this alternator just puts out enough to charge the battery and maintain with minimal extra things running. 

When I get back into town I'll have the auto place order a higher end alternator so theoretically I shouldn't have anymore problems. 

I like working on my truck it's just this one problem is getting old. 

I'll post my what readings I get when I can get to it.

Thanks a ton!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Yep, 12.3v idling is just *barely* enough. Sure isn't going to charge the battery, but at the same time, won't draw enough to kill it very quickly.
Next time you get out there, rev up the engine a tad, say 2,000 rpm or so and check again. Then load it down (headlights on bright, door open, blower on full speed, windshield wipers on, stepping on the brake pedal, whatever else you got to load it down EXCEPT a the radio), with the engine rev'd and check again.


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## beauxx (Dec 17, 2011)

I have a 98 frontier, Its doing the exact same thing....3 alts, new batt....12.7 volts, crank truckvolts go to 13.5...put it under a load...12.8-13... drive it & it dies.... What is wrong, Its making me mad.....HELP


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## LSDisk0 (Dec 8, 2011)

I had this problem with my last truck. I cleaned the terminals checked the batteries ground, checked all other grounds and it worked fine.


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## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

*UPDATE:*

OK so I checked my power with everything running. I got between 8.5 and 9.5v.

I figured that was a good sign so I tried yet another alternator this time I got the most expensive one I could. 

Same exact readings as the last one. There's something between the alt and the battery that's stealing about 7v. I've checked the wiring as best I could. Nothing noticeably wrong. I also tried I new ground wire just in case the one I had was bad. Nothing. I have nooo clue what to do now.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

The HB isn't my specialty, I don't know how it's wired.
8.5-9.5v is NOT a good sign by any stretch.
It sounds like the alternator isn't being 'energized' or turned on, not that something is 'stealing 7volts'.
I'd start by double checking ALL of the fuses in the fuse box, relay box, etc. Specifically for something that might sound like 'excitation' or 'ALT field'.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Check the white 10 gauge wire from the fusible link at the battery to the back of the alternator. If the fusible link is not blown, check the wire for excessive resistance or signs of burning up. Also, turn the key "on" (engine not running" and make sure the charging system warning lamp is illuminated. If the bulb is burnt out, the alternator will not charge.


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## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

> 8.5-9.5v is NOT a good sign by any stretch.


Bad choice in words...I thought it was a good sign that I needed a new alternator. 

I have checked all the fuses. I haven't checked the relays because everyone told me they shouldn't be causing this problem. I can try and check those.

I have no idea if this is related but I've been having the occasional problem with it idling at a high RPM for no apparent reason. It doesn't happen in a predictable way, I just figured the throttle was sticking. When it happens I can restart or get them partially down by using a low gear at a really low speed.

Thanks for the advice, Jdg



> Check the white 10 gauge wire from the fusible link at the battery to the back of the alternator. If the fusible link is not blown, check the wire for excessive resistance or signs of burning up. Also, turn the key "on" (engine not running" and make sure the charging system warning lamp is illuminated. If the bulb is burnt out, the alternator will not charge.


My truck broke down last night on the road. Had to have my girlfriend follow me and jump/charge it every 5 miles to her house. Now I'm using her car today. I'll try and check that out. 

I looked at the wire going to the + - connector thing that just clicks in. I didn't see any obvious problems. It could be in the larger group of wires all crammed together by the battery I guess. Do you know about where I could find a fusible link? I thought that was a option but I could never find them. The Haynes book on my truck doesn't even say where they are.

Thanks!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Trozdol said:


> Bad choice in words...I thought it was a good sign that I needed a new alternator.


That makes much more sense 



> I haven't checked the relays because everyone told me they shouldn't be causing this problem. I can try and check those.


nah...go with smj's thoughts. He's a helluva lot more up on these than I am.



> Do you know about where I could find a fusible link? I thought that was a option but I could never find them. The Haynes book on my truck doesn't even say where they are.


A fusible link usually pretty much looks like a regular chunk of wire, except it's in-line with the regular wire, might be spliced or soldered in there. You can buy fusible link wire at pretty much any auto parts store in a roll...even though you only need like 6 inches worth out of the 25ft roll you just bought


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## Trozdol (Dec 15, 2011)

Ok so I've been away from my computer for a while. Sorry for the late post. 

I've found the problem and for those of you who have the same issue...I'm sorry. The fix for me was to take it in to Nissan and they took a look. They told me the engine wire harness stuff needed to be replaced and it was a whopping 1300 bucks, mostly in labor and I don't blame them. It looks like it'd be a pain to do. 

The dealership mechanic told me the wires were only allowing 1.5v to go through which wasn't what was needed and that it needed replacing. That's all I really know. I could see they replaced that whole mess of wires going to the alternator and the batter along with the grounds. My truck runs great now. It sounds so much better, the headlights are brighter and I can go faster in it than I could before (Not that I want to go fast with it's MPG). 

Now I just need to get all the other little things figured out and fixed :/ 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

$1,300? I think you got railed.
But that's the way dealerships operate...
Probably one slightly bad wire and/or one bad ground connection.


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