# Sound Deadening (4 Doors)



## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Ok well I bit the bullet and spent $150 on b-quiet extreme. Yes I did searching and googling blah blah but never found my answer.

Is dampening the rear doors necessary? I understand that for the front it is for the speakers, but what about the rear? I thought that one layer on the outside skin would be alright... or should I use as much as the front doors?

and one more question, for the rear deck. I removed the rear speakers (going for SQ). Should I cover the holes for with dampening or not cover them so the trunk is ported as some people suggest.

Thanks again guys!


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## wickedsr20 (Aug 8, 2002)

jlee1469 said:


> Ok well I bit the bullet and spent $150 on b-quiet extreme. Yes I did searching and googling blah blah but never found my answer.
> 
> Is dampening the rear doors necessary? I understand that for the front it is for the speakers, but what about the rear? I thought that one layer on the outside skin would be alright... or should I use as much as the front doors?
> 
> and one more question, for the rear deck. I removed the rear speakers (going for SQ). Should I cover the holes for with dampening or not cover them so the trunk is ported as some people suggest.


1. Is it necessary to do the rear doors? For sound purposes not really, but I would do them just because the more road noise you can keep out of the car, the more enjoyable the car will be with the stereo on or off. Really helps the car ride like a more expensive car. I'd definitely do all four doors. I'm doing the whole interior and the trunk of the 200sx real soon with the same material.
Looking forward to that.

2. I would not cover the rear speaker holes themselves, but would cover the rest of the rear deck with the B-Quiet. Easy and free way to get the bass into the interior. As far as the damping goes, if you dampen the trunk well enough, you will not notice the rear speaker holes not being covered with the stereo off and cruising. 

Good luck with the install and post up some progress pics.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

wickedsr20 said:


> 1. Is it necessary to do the rear doors? For sound purposes not really, but I would do them just because the more road noise you can keep out of the car, the more enjoyable the car will be with the stereo on or off. Really helps the car ride like a more expensive car. I'd definitely do all four doors. I'm doing the whole interior and the trunk of the 200sx real soon with the same material.
> Looking forward to that.
> 
> 2. I would not cover the rear speaker holes themselves, but would cover the rest of the rear deck with the B-Quiet. Easy and free way to get the bass into the interior. As far as the damping goes, if you dampen the trunk well enough, you will not notice the rear speaker holes not being covered with the stereo off and cruising.
> ...


ditto

10 char


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Thanks guys, i'll definitely post up pics of the progress!

Any tips on applying the stuff. I'll make sure I pick up a good roller (save myself the bloody hands!)

wickedsr20, google for a coupon code. I think I used ls1.com but yeah saved myself 10% ($14)


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Just FYI,
Majority of the car noise, such as tire etc. comes from the floor. The best place for soundproofing against wind and hum is under the carpet. You'll get more silence there from any of the doors.

Seth


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Hmm... good excuse to get new carpet as well  thanks!


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Well the past two days I got my doors done...

and man what a tedious pain in the ass putting this stuff on is! Probably the most time consuming thing I've ever done on my car. Glad I didnt strip the whole interior or I'd be without a car for at least a week.

Still need to do trunk, floor, under rear seat, deck, and roof 

Only got one cut so far for not using a roller in a hard to reach space. But it feels that a few layers of skin was removed cause the stuff is REALLY sticky which is good for the doors of course... not me tho!

Results? Haven't noticed much yet... when I tap on the door from the outside it produces a real solid, nonresonating sound unlike tapping an undeadened door which sounds hollow. I look foward to seeing how it sounds on the highway when I'm done


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

You'll love it. Tapping doesn't do it justice, the highway will show you the fruits of your labor.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Also, you did seal up all of those holes in the front doors right? You don't want to have any holes in that door except for the hole the speaker will be sitting in, if you do that you should notice a very large difference in your speakers' performance.


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## wickedsr20 (Aug 8, 2002)

jlee1469 said:


> Ok well I bit the bullet and spent $150 on b-quiet extreme.


One question for you. How many square feet did you get for $150?


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

Il guess by what I was looking at 150 sq ft. It runs $100 for 100 sq ft on ebay + shipping


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

wow sr20demon, I really do notice a huge difference on the mids! Also the road noise has gone down considerably as well! The hype is all true and sound deadening is something everyone with a daily driver should do.

HOWEVER... something is really wrong. My driver's lock does not respond to the power switch. I made sure the sticky stuff did not touch the rods as I can freely move the lock manually... really weird! I noticed that from time to time it does work and sometimes doesnt... any solutions? Oh, and all the other doors operate fine so something is wrong with the drivers side only.

Same thing goes with my passenger window. Moving the switch down brings the window down but it doesnt come back up. This started happening the night I did the deadening. Right after I reinstalled the door panel I check the window and it worked fine before... but not anymore! Does directly applying the deadening to the motor affect its operation??

Thanks for the help guys... the electrical problems got me stumped! I could only think it was a coincidence that maybe I got bad switches after replugging em.

I bought my sound deadening from b-quiet.com . If you check out NPM project 200sx they used the same stuff, but I got the cheaper version. I used almost a whole roll on doors alone (one layer overlapping in outer skin and inner skin)

*EDIT: sorry i didnt answer your question wicked, I got 2 rolls 50 sq ft (100 sq ft total)


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Hm, well the door lock not working is probably from the rod getting stuck. One good thing to do is wrap the rod in plastic (not too tight, just loosely wrapped around) and then lay the deadening on top of that, so the deadening sticks to the plastic but the rod can still slide back and forth freely. About the window I have no idea, maybe it's just coincidence that your window motor went out the same time you did your deadening....my driver's side window does the same thing, but it started getting steadily worse and worse before finally stopping, it didn't just go out overnight. It also started about 15 months after i did the deadening.


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Thanks for the quick response sr20demon... WELL the window went up earlier... very slowly though. Is that a sign that the motor is about to go?

I do remember spraying water and Simple Green on it while i was degreasing the whole door... hope its not from that =x

My lock worked as well electronically... I was sure the deadening wasn't stuck on the rod cause it does easily move manually. Yah I think its all just coincidence.

Once again for the people who are contemplating this project... DO IT! Its worth it and i'm a believer


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