# rattling doors are annoying



## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

Long story short, I put kenwood 6.5" speakers in my doors, and now my door rattles when the little things push a little low-mid/high-bass. Even a little, because they're not supposed to push much bass anyway. It's not the speaker, because I made sure rubber was put between it and the door in the right places.. it's somewhere inside the door, and it's so annoying, because I sat with it for maybe an hour trying to figure out where the rattling is coming from. Anyone have that problem? What was rattling? If not, did anyone just say fuck it, and dynamatted the doors to absorb some sound and vibration?

Also need adapters to fit 6.5" speakers into holes drilled for 6.75" speakers. I jerry-rigged the door holes so they would fit. Can I get those at crutchfield, or just make them myself?


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## G_Funk013 (Jul 9, 2002)

I dont get rattling as much, but I do get this buzzing sound. My rattling happens when I put my driver side window down about half way. I can find what it is yet. I think it is a plastic piece shaking in the door.


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## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

Probably so.. I'll keep looking around.


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## G_Funk013 (Jul 9, 2002)

Today, My door was buzzing and rattling like crazy. I really have to open up the door to find check it out. If I find anything, Ill tell you.


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## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

What about making a 6.5" speaker fit 6.75" holes? What did you do for that?


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## samo (Apr 30, 2002)

Back when I had door speakers, I used a thin sheet of Lexan to make an adaptor from 6.75" to 6.5". A piece of thin wood would work well too.


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

well.. I have some Kenwood 6.5's and even though I run a B13 it does rattle. What I did, was cut a ring of cardboard out to put in-between the speaker and door frame. I used two layers to dampen the vibrations and no more rattles!


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

oh yeh, in order for the screws to fit, I also cut out some sheet metal, a ring the exact same size as the cardboard.
Then I drilled holes to firmly connect the speaker and sheet metal togather. Then, I used the existing "6.5 holes in the door frame, and put the screws through the sheet metal and old holes. The sheet metal (and cardboard) should hold the screw firmly in place. I also used a nut to hold the screw even stronger.

Here's my old little tutorial... 


> I laid out a sheet of "sheet metal" and traced the outside size of the existing stock speaker, and marked the screw holes for the existing stock speaker. Then I traced my new kenwood speaker inside of the sheet metal. It basically ended up having a Circle within a Square. Then I cut the metal out, while following the marker-line I used to trace it. Now, You have to cut the very center out, so the speaker can fit in its new template. You should basically now have a ring about 1 inch' to 1' 1/2 (inch and a half) "border" Then I drilled the holes, the Four Holes from the stock speakers, using the stock screws, and then I drilled 3 holes for my new kenwood screws. [Note:The stock and aftermarket screws were different sizes]. In order to prevent the sheet metal from vibrating like crazy against both the speaker, and metal frame of the car, I cut out some cradboard the exact shape of the new metal frame I have.
> I applied them too both sides, and attached them with 3m Spray Glue Then I screwed on my new (KenWood) Speaker to the metal ring/frame and then I screwed in my frame, with the speaker attached to the car.


Read ME

Took me about 25 minutes.. or you can get an adapter


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## UnderDog (Jul 14, 2002)

That was my original plan, but I don't have any metal cutting tools to use to make the rings with. I tried to save time and went to Lowe's and asked if they had sheet metal rings and the guy kind of laughed and said I had to go to a sheet metal place to do that.

What kind of tool do I need to cut the metal with? I know my friends would probably have it, and I can go borrow it if I know what to get.


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

I actually got some thin sheet metal, and I used some metal Sheers... that were in my dad's garage.
They are basicallly a pair of scissors whihc have kinda weird curved blades. But the Sheet metal I have came in a roll, but you can also buy sheets.
They're not too hard to cut, but I works and takes about 1 hr for everything to be done.. from picking the materials up, and cutting it and etc.


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## altimate94 (Nov 28, 2002)

what about a dynamat (or alternative) door kit......?


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

yes you can get it.. but its really expensive.... and you have to take the entire door off, and apply the extremely sticky mat, and cut and trim.. etc. 
Dynamat and FatMat are excellent for sound deadening from the outside, and kills rattleing from the inside and outside. 
It basically "holds" in the sound waves in the car, and then they cant escape. So everything sounds better and louder...bassier etc.


Hope everything works out.. keep us updated


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## CLocK NX (Jan 8, 2003)

i took out all the plastic coverings in my door and that solved all of the rattling...


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## cmotek24 (Jun 15, 2002)

When I checked my doors, I noticed that the window guide was rattling. If you check inside the door, the track that the front of the window runs on has a hole in it. When I looked at it, it seemed like the end should have been attached to the door, because there is also a hole the same size on the door (next to the window crank). But there was no sign that a screw of a bolt was ever there (no scratches, or anything). So I got a 1/4" bolt and attached the end of the window guide to the door. That stopped some rattling. Also made the window go up much more smoothly. Hope it helps.

Ppeace
CMo


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## 91SR20DE (Nov 25, 2002)

hehehe..PrOxLaMuS said bassier, hehehehe *in Beavis voice*


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## nissan 0wnz you (Nov 8, 2002)

I was just about to post a question on that.
My driver's side door rattles like HELL when my music is up, even a little... first I put Dynamat in, that helped it a lot, then it started rattling again... one of the bars in there is loose, the one on the lock.. I put another piece of sponge in between and that helped for a while.... and I went to put ANOTHER piece in a while ago (b/c the first one fell out) and broke like half of those stupid plastic screws... I'm missing like 2 plastic ones and the metal one that goes near the lock... that's the part that's rattling the most right now.... hopefully after I go up to the dealership and get some more it'll stop..


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## G_Funk013 (Jul 9, 2002)

Sorry to bring up such an old thread but. This problem has started to annoy me now.

The thing is when I roll down my passenger window, I can hear the rattling going on. But when I hold onto the door, where the lock and window controls are, the sound goes away. I havent opened the door in a while to find the problem, but what do you think might be the cause of this? For some reason, I think its the window rail, but dont know how to fix it.


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## nang3 (Nov 11, 2003)

yeh just pull the door apart and dynamat the shit out of it.. making sure the window can still open and close as per normal of course.... should make it sound a little more controlled as well as removing most of the annoying rattling


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## G_Funk013 (Jul 9, 2002)

I already know about the dynamat solution, but im looking for a quick fix. Im running kinda low on the cash flow and dont really have any free time to do anything right now.


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## nang3 (Nov 11, 2003)

do you mean when you roll your window all the way down it rattles, or as soon as you open it just a bit... if its when its all the way down maybe the back of the magnet is touching the glass or the window guide or something... hard to tell really without being able to see it..


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