# serious body work



## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

ok guys im needing to know the best way to mold the inner tailights to the trunk lid on my 97 200sx..i want something thats not gonna crack within a couple weeks..whats the best way to get a clean smooth look that will last


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## samo (Apr 30, 2002)

Ideally, you want to be working with fiberglass and maybe even sheet metal. You're going to need major skills with fiberglass, bondo, and kitty hair at the very least.


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## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

lets say i just filled the cracks in with fiberglasss jelly,,and sanded everything perfectly even and smooth would it hold up? or would it crack


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

It will crack even with fiberglass through out the years. Your best bet is to go get yourself some sandable seam sealer. Stuff is strong as hell and it sandable. If you dont know what seam sealer is used for, your car comes with it stock from the factory. It seals the seams of all the welds for the body of your car. After having it sanded with the seam sealer then you apply a nice coat of mud or bondo. Dont do it too think or you will also have a cracking issue.


BTW take my suggestion on this part. Go buy yourself another deck/trunk lid and center piece before attempting this. Other wise when you fu*k it up, you will wish you never started this project.


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## 1CLNB14 (Apr 30, 2002)

Listen to Chris on this one...I think he has a bit of history with it. 

Buy a back up to work on.


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

1CLNB14 said:


> Listen to Chris on this one...I think he has a bit of history with it.
> 
> Buy a back up to work on.




Haha smartass! :givebeer:


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## lshadoff (Nov 26, 2002)

If you want an education in this, watch American Chopper and American HotRod on cable. You'll see how pros work metal.

Lew


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## 1CLNB14 (Apr 30, 2002)

SlowestRice said:


> Haha smartass! :givebeer:




:cheers:


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

lshadoff said:


> If you want an education in this, watch American Chopper and American HotRod on cable. You'll see how pros work metal.
> 
> Lew



Or you could just take your car to an actuall body shop like what I work for and see professionals do this every day 12 hours a day.


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## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

screw the body shop i asked them and they thought i was a dumbass,and they couldnt even put a body kit on they were trying to put it over my stock bumper cover..i live in a ******* town with a population of 2100 people,,i have done most of the work to my car,,and i dont think this could be too hard i just needed to know the best materials that will hold up...anyone know where to buy a nice bucket of seam sealer..i know what ure talking about that shit thats spread all over the floor when u got the carpet out..


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

kamikazekev said:


> screw the body shop i asked them and they thought i was a dumbass,and they couldnt even put a body kit on they were trying to put it over my stock bumper cover..i live in a ******* town with a population of 2100 people,,i have done most of the work to my car,,and i dont think this could be too hard i just needed to know the best materials that will hold up...anyone know where to buy a nice bucket of seam sealer..i know what ure talking about that shit thats spread all over the floor when u got the carpet out..




Seam sealer doesnt come out of a bucket. It comes out of a tube. It also doesnt spread all over the floor. It is used only on the seams of the cars. The shit under your carpet is called sound deadner which is completly the wrgon stuff.


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## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

i know what it is i wasnt talking about the sounds mat stuff..its the putty lookin stuff thats where 2 pieces of sheet metal meet and it is all over the floorboard..especially the humps...and sorry i didnt know what kind of container it came in,,,lol but anyways ill give it a shot


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

I didn't mean for it to come across like I was calling you an idiot. I do appoligize if thats how is came across. I am more than willing to give advise since I to have gone through this type of stuff listening to a friend who said he knew what he was talking about. I learned the hard way. Never listen to friends. 


Now the sound deadning type stuff is good but isnt nessisary(sp). It actually comes in a big sheet about 4x4 feet and is cut to shape. Thats mainly just for the bottom of the car to keep out road noise. The seam sealer comes out of a tube like I have said and you brush it on with a small 1 time use brush. Now this stuff is also good for molding stuff. Like if you do fiberglass fender flares to give your car a wide body effect. You mold the fiberglass to the metal with the seam sealer. If you mold the fiberglass its self it will crack away. With the seam sealer it will last a hell of alot longer simply cause that is what the stuff is ment for. Its made to hold up especially on seams. Now they have sandable and non sandable.


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## ScorchN200SX (Aug 13, 2002)

You guys are forgetting the most important part.... Prep it first...
Grind the paint off to bare metal on the trunk where you are going to be working. Sand down the egdes of the plastic peices sides front and back with 60 Grit. If you just start seam sealling it or kitty hair it will not really bite into the 2 materials and split really quick. I learned this my first time around shaving my tails. I would suggedt Kitty hair, first then royal gold Mudd, AKA: Bondo, Then glaze it.


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## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

im thinkin the seam sealer that i have found on my car isnt sandable,,its kinda mushy when i apply the muscle lol....but my plans are,,,apply the sandable seam sealer around each innner tailight,,sand it all smooth and even,then apply about 2 layers of bondo or fiberglass jelly and sand then primer...does advanced or any parts store carry the seam sealer or do i need to go to a body shop?


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

Mike is right. Preping is the most important issue. I was just suggesting a type of product to use. Also a good product is Duraglass. The shit is strong as hell.




This is what I would do. Buy a seprate trunk/deck lid. Sorry for the confusing names, I work in a shop and things are called names I have never heard of before in my life. Ok so a deck/trunk lid with the tail light sections. Buy all the nessisary(sp) tools and materials needed for repair. After you have everything, then you start the process. Grind all the metal in the tail light section only with 60 or 80 grit. The best tool for this would be a 90* angle grinder. Be sure that when hooked up to a air compressor you have a water seperator attached to it. If not the water will spray out on the metal and cause some rusting problems later on. After you have the metal grinded completly in the sections take the tails and grind the insides and outer edges only with the same grit. Once all the grinding is done take the seam sealer and apply to the metal and inner of the tails. Be sure to do one side at a time to assure the sealer doesnt dry to fast. Brush sealer all over the sections and then apply to each other. Once together apply in the edges as well to fill in the gaps. Let it sit for a day or so. Once your ready fill in the rest of the gaps with duraglass. Allow to dry which takes only a few minutes. Sand smoothly with 150 grit to get the shape you need. once the shape is formed skim the surface with mudd like the royal gold that Mike was talking about which is great stuff. Allow to dry and block smooth. Once everything is sanded smooth, da the entire outer surface of the trunk lid with 150 grit and prep for primer.


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## kamikazekev (Apr 28, 2003)

thanks for all the info i got a good idea on everything..so where can i buy these fine materials??the seam sealer and duraglass


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## SlowestRice (Sep 14, 2002)

kamikazekev said:


> thanks for all the info i got a good idea on everything..so where can i buy these fine materials??the seam sealer and duraglass




Places like wesco auto paint supply.


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