# need adviceih



## nis97san (Apr 6, 2012)

my hardbody has 241xxx miles but it has a rattle when i crank it up and idle ive been told it was the timing chain its still the original one for the motor should i change it ?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

what year?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It it's a KA24E, definitely! I would change the whole timing set with that many miles. But, you should also make sure your oil pressure is good, first. If you change the timing chain set, make sure to clean out the oil channel behind the chain tensioner. Remove the oil filter and tensioner and spray carb cleaner and compressed air though the whole on the block behind the tensioner until you hear it blow clear through the oil filter adapter.


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## nis97san (Apr 6, 2012)

how much dies it cost how muchtime involved ?
its a 1997


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Welcome to the forum.

Most shops will quote you 8-10 hours labour plus parts. Timing chain kits vary in cost (dealers being the most, but perhaps the best). Check e-bay for an idea of pricing. I'm gonna' say at least a coupla' hundred bucks for parts. Some folks say a good quality oil filter will reduce the drainback of oil associated with the tensioner (I'm not a firm believer that any filter is a solution to this problem)

If you are mechanically inclined and have some tools (or know someone who fits that description) there's a good write up on this site that outlines the procedure.

I agree that with that many miles, your timing assembly is ready for a change. Ironically, it's probably been rattling for thousands of miles (on start ups). After all, that's pretty much part and parcel for the 2.4 KA24.

Good luck, man!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Go to Rockauto.com. They have a Cloyes timing set that includes the two gears, two guides, tensioner and chain with a lifetime warranty for $80+shipping. Try to stick with name-brand kits like Cloyes or TRW's Sealed Power as some of the off brand chains have been a bit sketchy and of poor quality.


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## tsnow678 (Feb 22, 2011)

I just did the timing chain set on my sons 95 HB. Its not that bad. You can do it in an evening if you have any mechanical inclination. You will need to remove quite a lot of stuff to make it easier. The valve cover, fan clutch, belts, ps pump, crank pulley, water outlet, pcv baffle, radiator, fan shroud, upper pulley and brackets, oil pump, oil pump/distributor shaft, and distributor and front cover will all have to be removed. You will need to find TDC on number one and try not to disturb it during the process. The keyways on the cam and crank will both point straight up on TDC but make sure your on the compression stroke! Remove the tensioner, guides, gears, and chain at this point. There should be two dark links on the new chain that will align with two dimples on the gears. Make sure the keyways are straight up and the dimples line up with the links and then reverse everything taken off. You will need to be careful reinstalling the timing cover as the head gasket is wedged between the head and cover(royal pain in the ass). Make sure to replace the oil port seals behind the cover also. I use the Ultra Gray sealant but the preference is yours. You will be glad to know you changed the timing set the first time you fire it up and there is no noises!!! You can pull the valve cover off and look down at the guides to see if they are damaged prior to their removal. I would bet money the left side guide is gone other than a metal backing. Its amazing how well these engines run with the timing chain in so bad of condition! Stout engine, piss poor guide design.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey there tsnow. Did your lifters tap for a bit until the air was bled out (on first start after the timing job)?

How was reinstalling the oil pump? Was it a bit of a PITA?


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## tsnow678 (Feb 22, 2011)

Grug said:


> Hey there tsnow. Did your lifters tap for a bit until the air was bled out (on first start after the timing job)?
> 
> How was reinstalling the oil pump? Was it a bit of a PITA?


I filled the oil pump up with some gear oil to aid in the priming. The only pain with the oil pump was aligning the shaft so the distributor would seat in the proper location. The manual said to align the dot on the shaft with the hole on the pump but it was still off a little. I did learn not to silicone the oil pump gasket as the oil pump may need to be removed more than once to get the timing exactly right and still have room for adjustment at the distibutor. The lifters did tick for about 2 seconds as did the tensioner on the guide. After that it ran smooth with out a hiccup. The oil pump would be a breeze if you can remove it and not let the shaft come out. Mine is still off about a tooth but I got the timing around 18 BTDC (distibutor bottomed out) and it is running great so I left it.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Cool. I've heard that sometimes the lifters will be noisy for 10-20 minutes on first start up. Those must have been times when the oil pump wasn't primed.

Did you have any leaks when you were done? Oil pan maybe?


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## tsnow678 (Feb 22, 2011)

Grug said:


> Cool. I've heard that sometimes the lifters will be noisy for 10-20 minutes on first start up. Those must have been times when the oil pump wasn't primed.
> 
> Did you have any leaks when you were done? Oil pan maybe?


No leaks! I used the oil pump gasket dry on both sides. The oil pan does not require a gasket but I used one anyways. Take great care to clean the oil pan and where there is a bolt hole make sure to flatten it out. I lay the oil pan rail on a 4x6 piece of wood and set a pointed body hammer in the hole and strike it lightly with another hammer to reverse the damage of over tightened bolts. This will allow the bolt to spread the load over a greater area rather than in and around the bolt hole itself. I use 3M Super weatherstrip adhesive to glue the oil pan gasket to the oil pan and then a layer of Ultra Gray sealant on the mating surface. One good thing about the hard bodies is you can remove the crossmember directly under the pan to ease in removal and replacement. If your going to change the timing chain, guides, and such it is a good idea to remove the oil pan for two reasons. 1) the broken guides will be in the sump area of the pan and 2) the front cover becomes more difficult trying to reinstall with the oil pan in place. Like I said earlier, you do not have to have a gasket on the oil pan but make sure you have both surfaces clean and use plenty of sealant. I wish they made an oil pan gasket with the steel inserts so over tightening would be prevented.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Good to hear you have no leaks.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'd be able to remove the oil pan on mine as it's a 4WD. The only way to get the pan off would be to remove the front differential...not really something I want to do.

I could live with a small drip if it meant not dropping the differential.


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## tsnow678 (Feb 22, 2011)

Grug said:


> Good to hear you have no leaks.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't think I'd be able to remove the oil pan on mine as it's a 4WD. The only way to get the pan off would be to remove the front differential...not really something I want to do.
> 
> I could live with a small drip if it meant not dropping the differential.


Yeah the 4wd does make it a little more difficult. I did a Pathfinder one time and it was rather involved. Its not too bad once you get into it. It looks intimidating but wasn't really that bad.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Hey guys!
I've still got mine slated to do, but just after I got my parts my job situation changed and I just haven't had time to break the truck down and try to take pictures of the whole process for this forum. That will slow the process down a bit also.

I've taken my truck out of work duty and now it sits most of the time, but when I do need it it's running and sounding very well still, with the exception of the small start up rattle. My fear is that putting it off too long will cause damage to the timing cover inside from the chain hitting it. I'm sure I'm not the only one here that's seen that happen, and then you have to spend another couple of hundred bucks. Arg!!!

-Roger


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