# 97 Altima Stalls when idle



## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

Hello board. For the past two months, my 97 altima has been stalling when the car is idle. As long as I am driving it runs fine. However, when I am sitting at idle is when the problem occurs. The ECM shows no fault codes. On the advice of four different mechanics, including a nissan dealer mechanic, I have done the following things; Full tune up, new alternator, new knock sensor, swapped both distributor and ecm with used distributor and ecm, cleaned throttle body several times, but still same result. All of the mechanics have said that there is good spark and fuel flow.I checked the original distrbutor and there was no oil inside. I haven't checked the replacement distributor yet. The car can stall atleast once a day, or once every other day. Sometimes it stalls multiple times a day. When it does stall, 40% of the time it starts right back up. But for the most part, I have to wait 15 - 25 minutes before it starts again. The engine cranks, but I just have to wait awhile before it starts. I heard someone suggest dealing with the idle air control valva.

Any suggestions ?


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

Full tune up which means?
Do you have the FSM? 

Definitely look into the IACV. 

But, it should be able to start with a little help from the gas pedal. You might have other problems. 

Tired components that might not trigger idiot light:
clogged air/fuel filter
o2
MAF
plugs/wires/cap/rotor 
coolant temp sensor
EGR along with ALL emissions controls
TPS
bad injector(s)
oil in distributor


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

check the TPS and the IACV, its one or the other most likely.


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## Praetorian_1975 (Jul 14, 2004)

I had a similar problem with my 93 Altima. It turned out to be a knock sensor?? When the mechanic took it out and replaced it, it fixed the problem.


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

2000SE said:


> Full tune up which means?
> Do you have the FSM?
> 
> Definitely look into the IACV.
> ...


Tune up means japanese plugs, wires, air/fuel filter, distributor cap. 

A little help from the gas pedal does not help the car start. 

For these other things you have mentioned, it there someplace I can go to read about symptoms that indicate when these components are going bad ?


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

used97altima said:


> For these other things you have mentioned, it there someplace I can go to read about symptoms that indicate when these components are going bad ?


yes there is...just click ur daddy>>> :hal:  :thumbup:


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

^^^
you can also check the glossary, and the troubleshooting page.


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

Well, I'm down to throwing parts at it. Does anyone have any suggestions where to start ?


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

used97altima said:


> Well, I'm down to throwing parts at it. Does anyone have any suggestions where to start ?


If you are sure the distributor is fine and no oil is present, then I suggest you clean out the throttle body,which is pretty straight forward and then clean out the Idale air control valve, which is tough to get at.


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

LONDONDERRY said:


> If you are sure the distributor is fine and no oil is present, then I suggest you clean out the throttle body,which is pretty straight forward and then clean out the Idale air control valve, which is tough to get at.


How does the IACV work ? Does it provide air for ignition when the car is idling ? Usually when the car stalls, it is clean with no warning. Sometimes it does give warning, but when I press on the gas pedal it doesn't stop the stall. If it is a problem with air, why doesn't the stall stop when I press the gas pedal. Doesn't the pedal open the throttle to allow more air ? Or does the IACV overide throttle air flow over in idle conditions ?

I have cleaned out the throttle body twice in the past few weeks. Do you think that I need to spray into the throttle body as far as possible ? Do you think that I need to add an extension to the straw to spray further into it ? Do you think I need to do several cleanings ? 

Considering everything that I have done so far and all the advice i have received, the idle air control valve seems to be the next thing to investigate. Any suggestions as to how to get it out ? I'm no seasoned mechanic, but then again I am no novice. It does appear to be a pain to get to it. Would it best be something done by a garage ? Should I get a used Valve to replace it with ?


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

used97altima said:


> How does the IACV work ? Does it provide air for ignition when the car is idling ? Usually when the car stalls, it is clean with no warning. Sometimes it does give warning, but when I press on the gas pedal it doesn't stop the stall. If it is a problem with air, why doesn't the stall stop when I press the gas pedal. Doesn't the pedal open the throttle to allow more air ? Or does the IACV overide throttle air flow over in idle conditions ?
> If you do a search on this site there is probably a explainqation on how the IACV works
> 
> I have cleaned out the throttle body twice in the past few weeks. Do you think that I need to spray into the throttle body as far as possible ? Do you think that I need to add an extension to the straw to spray further into it ? Do you think I need to do several cleanings ?
> ...


Before you dump parts and cash into the car do the simple things first. Buy the Haynes manual, if you haven't and it will tell you how to trouble shoot the IACV. 
Have you looked inside the distrbutor yet?


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

LONDONDERRY said:


> Before you dump parts and cash into the car do the simple things first. Buy the Haynes manual, if you haven't and it will tell you how to trouble shoot the IACV.
> Have you looked inside the distrbutor yet?


Why buy a manual when you have one that I supplied above. click on hal>>> :hal: <<<(not this one but the one above)


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

DRUNKHORSE said:


> Why buy a manual when you have one that I supplied above. click on hal>>> :hal: <<<(not this one but the one above)


Hun, what are you talking about?


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

LONDONDERRY said:


> Hun, what are you talking about?


If you scroll up and check my very first post I said the following...


Myself said:


> yes there is...just click ur daddy>>> :hal: :thumbup:


all you have to do is click on "hal" a.k.a. this guy>>> :hal: <<< and you will get what is basically a haynes/ chiltons manual. I know it says "Product and How-To Information" but if you look to the left you will see "*Repair Info*" click on that then click on "*Repair Guides*" and follow the simple steps like make/year/model  and then you will finally get the actual repair guides a.k.a. manual. Therefore he doesnt need to buy a manual when he has one for free online from *Autozone*.


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

The auto zone repair manual simply says to unscrew the mounting bolts to take off IACV. It doesn't say how to get around the obstacles (Hoses, etc.), and it doesn't offer a suggestion about the small amount of space to work in. I only see one mounting bolt. I am sure there is atleast one more, but I simply can't see how to get a tool in there to get any of them off. Any suggestions, anyone ? Can it be done from the top of the engine ? Do I need to try to approach from underneath?


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

used97altima said:


> The auto zone repair manual simply says to unscrew the mounting bolts to take off IACV. *It doesn't say how to get around the obstacles (Hoses, etc.)*, and it doesn't offer a suggestion about the small amount of space to work in. I only see one mounting bolt. I am sure there is atleast one more, but I simply can't see how to get a tool in there to get any of them off. Any suggestions, anyone ? Can it be done from the top of the engine ? Do I need to try to approach from underneath?


 Really?!?!?
Looky what I found...








The IACV-Auxiliary Air Control (1), IACV-FICD valve (2) and IACV-air regulator (3) are located at the end of the cylinder head

The IACV-air regulator is located at the end of the cylinder head. 

1-Disconnect the electrical harness from the valve, as required. 

2-*Remove the air hoses, as required*. 

3-Remove the mounting bolts. 

4-Remove the air regulator from the intake manifold.(or whatever you want to clean/replace).

work on your interweb skills bro


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## jovanni (Mar 29, 2005)

nice skills,i looked everywhere for that pic u found,do u have to subscribe to have access to that picture?


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

jovanni said:


> nice skills,i looked everywhere for that pic u found,do u have to subscribe to have access to that picture?


LOL, sorry about the picture. I deleted it from my hosting website and I for got that you wouldnt beable to see it here, atleast I didnt erase from "my pictures" yet. *No* you dont have to subscribe. When you get to the site just click "Repair Info" then click "Repair Guides" and then enter the year/model/make of the car you want info on and thats it. Here is a link  to what you'll get once you enter all of the info. Oh and the picture works now


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

used97altima said:


> The auto zone repair manual simply says to unscrew the mounting bolts to take off IACV. It doesn't say how to get around the obstacles (Hoses, etc.), and it doesn't offer a suggestion about the small amount of space to work in. I only see one mounting bolt. I am sure there is atleast one more, but I simply can't see how to get a tool in there to get any of them off. Any suggestions, anyone ? Can it be done from the top of the engine ? Do I need to try to approach from underneath?


Dude, if you are going to remove the entire assembly (IAC & FICD) by taking out the 4 bolts MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A NEW GASKET FIRST. The gasket that's in there will tear when you take it off. They cost about a buck but usually the dealer has to order them - the idiots don't stock this part. And don't use RTV.

You can avoid this just take off the IAC-AAC valve itself (the 2 phillips screws) you don't need a gasket and that's where the clog will be anyway. You might need one of those telescoping mirrors to see the screws but it should be reachable from up top (if you have long arms)


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

DRUNKHORSE said:


> Really?!?!?
> Looky what I found...
> 
> 
> ...


There is a much larger hose that is in the way, unattached to the IACV, before you can get to the two smaller hoses. That is a shot of the IACV without obstruction. But thank you. From your response and the others I think that I may have a chance at getting to the root of the problem.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

Try checking the MAF by unplugging it, when it stalls to see if it starts back up.

Troy


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

gfriedman said:


> Dude, if you are going to remove the entire assembly (IAC & FICD) by taking out the 4 bolts MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A NEW GASKET FIRST. The gasket that's in there will tear when you take it off. They cost about a buck but usually the dealer has to order them - the idiots don't stock this part. And don't use RTV.
> 
> You can avoid this just take off the IAC-AAC valve itself (the 2 phillips screws) you don't need a gasket and that's where the clog will be anyway. You might need one of those telescoping mirrors to see the screws but it should be reachable from up top (if you have long arms)


 I took off the IAC-AAC today. There was nothing in it but a spring. No carbon. No clog that I could see. I put it back on and the car stalled again within 15 minutes, which is usual.


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

KA24Tech said:


> Try checking the MAF by unplugging it, when it stalls to see if it starts back up.
> 
> Troy


I tried unplugging MAF after the stall and car did not start back up. However, I unplugged the TPS and the car started back up and has been running now for about 1/2 hour and hasn't stalled yet. Hmmmmm. Should have stalled out by now.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

That is what it is supposed to do when you unplug the MAF so it working normally. 
With the TPS disconnected check the timing. Also, check the voltage at the TPS after plugging it back in. It may just need adjustment.

Troy


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

KA24Tech said:


> That is what it is supposed to do when you unplug the MAF so it working normally.
> With the TPS disconnected check the timing. Also, check the voltage at the TPS after plugging it back in. It may just need adjustment.
> 
> Troy


Since I uplugged the TPS and plugged it back in, the car has not stalled. I let it run at idle for an hour, then drove it around for 30 minutes, no stall. Typically, it has been stalling within 15 minutes of starting. Today, I let it run for about two hours idling. No stall. Could unplugging the TPS have " reset " something ? How do I check timing ? I have no idea.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

used97altima said:


> How do I check timing ? I have no idea.


http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=107553


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## used97altima (Nov 16, 2005)

It's been 4 days since I disconnected and reconnected the TPS and the car has been running fine, no stalls. Hmmmm. Let's see, I took off the IACV AAC and sprayed the spring with a little carb cleaner. After I put it back on and started the car, it stalled within 15-20 min. Then, a few hours later, I sprayed the throttle body and scrubbed it with a brush. 15-20 minutes later, it stalled again. While stalled, I disconnected MAF, to no avail. Then, I disconnected the TPS. The car started back up, and I let it sit in park at idle for two hours. No stall. So, I reconnected TPS and let it run again for 1 hour. No stall. This was Sunday. Since then, I have been everywhere with the car, in stop and go conditions, no stall. For the past two months, I literallly could not go for more than a day or two without a stall while idling. For the past 4 days, it has been running like it is built to run. It's beginning to seem that either there was a bad connection in the electrical harness attached to the TPS or the TPS is faulty and hasn't shown itself again yet. For what its worth. . .


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## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

*IACV changeout*



gfriedman said:


> Dude, if you are going to remove the entire assembly (IAC & FICD) by taking out the 4 bolts MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A NEW GASKET FIRST. The gasket that's in there will tear when you take it off. They cost about a buck but usually the dealer has to order them - the idiots don't stock this part. And don't use RTV.
> 
> If you want to remove the whole assembly you can reach it pretty easily if you loosen the PS belt and remove the top bolt in the PS pump. Then by pushing down you can access both the oil separator (where PCV is) and the IAC-AAC valve. You will be unable to remove all the bolts from the oil separator unless you push the PS pump out of the way. The valve and oil separator require gaskets but I make my own easily by placing the surface I need a gasket for on my copier and then cut out the image of the surface to trace onto the black gasket material. With just a sharp razor knife I can make just about any type of gasket I need. I have made gaskets on the 2.4 engine for both the oil separator and the IAC-AAC valves which when installed did not leak. It took about ten miuntes total.


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