# Problems changing CV boot...



## tunder1 (Sep 28, 2004)

Found another problem on the 92 Sentra SE. I replaced the boot with one of the "quick" boots and it has let go again. My original plan was to replace the old one with the one piece, and according to the Haynes manual, there was only a circlip holding the CV joint to the axle. Well, this wasn't true on the 92! The clip is internal and can not be accessed, but requires shop removal. Then I read that there is a special tool similar to a ball joint remover (apparently around $30) that can be used when you remove the driveshaft, to basically knock the CV joint off the axle and just use a new circlip. But I believe that I also read that this method should only be used if the CV joint is being changed due to possible damage during the removal. Which brings up a couple of questions. Has anyone ever used this method to change the boot only?, what are the risks of damage?, or is it just easier to replace the driveshaft complete with the new boots??


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

easier to just replace the driveshaft with a new one.


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## PeaNutB13 (Apr 14, 2004)

Heck the Axle costs 59.99 @ advance auto parts + twenty minutes of your time = Done have a BEER!


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## HATEnFATE (Dec 24, 2002)

Most of the time, cv boots can just be a waste of time. If your axle only costs you 60-70 dollars and the tool you need is around 30 plus the boot kits and the grease, I'd just buy the axle since it's coming out either way. The quick boots are only good for a little while anyway and I sure wouldn't trust them on my beasty.....

Replace the axle and save yourself the problems and time down the road.


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## PeaNutB13 (Apr 14, 2004)

and in a pintch Duct tape works.


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## tunder1 (Sep 28, 2004)

Okay, sounds like the best idea is to change the whole driveshaft... thanks for the feedback!


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## 95 SentraB13 (Jun 14, 2002)

I changed my passenger side CV boot around early June. The old one was tore in half from at least last fall. It all came apart relatively easy, despite the mess of grease. I cleaned and inspected the joint and could see no wear/score marks. I paid $15 CDN, taxes in, for a boot-kit which includes the CV boot, clamps and grease. So far I haven't experienced any problems.

Pertaining to the circlip, the FSM mentioned that also and I was confused for a while and I couldn't get the outer joint off just by pulling. A slight tap with a rubber hammer and it popped off the shaft.

As for the tools required, a lot of places loan them out. You'll need a 32mm deep socket and CV boot clamp pliers. If you want to avoid the mess and repacking the new boot, then yes, buy a new axle.


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## tunder1 (Sep 28, 2004)

95 SentraB13 said:


> I changed my passenger side CV boot around early June. The old one was tore in half from at least last fall. It all came apart relatively easy, despite the mess of grease. I cleaned and inspected the joint and could see no wear/score marks. I paid $15 CDN, taxes in, for a boot-kit which includes the CV boot, clamps and grease. So far I haven't experienced any problems.
> 
> Pertaining to the circlip, the FSM mentioned that also and I was confused for a while and I couldn't get the outer joint off just by pulling. A slight tap with a rubber hammer and it popped off the shaft.
> 
> As for the tools required, a lot of places loan them out. You'll need a 32mm deep socket and CV boot clamp pliers. If you want to avoid the mess and repacking the new boot, then yes, buy a new axle.


Thanks for the support SentraB13 - I knew that there was a brave soul out there somewhere! My only other question is... when you put the cv joint back together, did you require a new clip, and was this process difficult?


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## 95 SentraB13 (Jun 14, 2002)

The exploded diagram in the FSM only shows a circular clip for the drivers side axle between the boot and joint assembly. It doesn't state that it needs to be removed or replaced, only greased. For the passenger side the clip is shown between the drive shaft and boot and it is marked to be replaced, I never though. Re-reading the sections related to ZF90(driver side joint) and BF86(passenger side joint), it only says:

- Before separating joint assembly, put matching marks on drive shaft and joint assembly.
- Separate joint assembly with a suitable too.
*Be careful not to damage threads on drive shaft.*
- Remove boot Bands.


The process wasn't all that difficult, more so confusing once I was ready to take the joint assembly off. Never having done so before I wasn't sure if I should hit it with a hammer, use a joint puller or if there was a c-clip left in place which I couldn't see. Trying to remove the wheel bearing lock nut proved most challenging until I found a suitable leverage tool to slip over the ratchet [ camper van spare tire bracket piping  ].
I took my time; consulted the board a few times; thoroughly washed the joint out with Varsol, water and dried it before reassembly. Cleaning up the old grease and repacking the joint was the most bothersome.

Spending $15 CDN for a boot kit was more affordable since the axle wasn't making any noise vs. $110($130 CDN taxes in) for a new one. Most places I called were quoting $110-$160 for reman. outer joint axles; $110 for new is a good price.


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