# switching to synthetic



## nissan_froniter2000 (Nov 16, 2005)

i have 36,000 and i want to change from regular oil to synthetic. will have any problems with doing so


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## 05 NISMO 4X4 (Jun 4, 2005)

nissan_froniter2000 said:


> i have 36,000 and i want to change from regular oil to synthetic. will have any problems with doing so


 The only real problem I had was shelling out the extra bucks for the cost of the synthetic! As far as your engine goes,it will love you for it! :cheers:


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## AGR (Oct 16, 2005)

*MOBIL 1* 

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

05 NISMO 4X4 said:


> The only real problem I had was shelling out the extra bucks for the cost of the synthetic! As far as your engine goes,it will love you for it! :cheers:


Do it yourself conventional oil change: 
[ $2.00/qt x 3.5 qt + $6.00 (*Nissan filter from Internet*) ] / 3750 miles = $0.00347/mi

Do it yourself synthetic oil change: 
[ $4.40/qt x 3.5 qt + $12.00 (K&N Filter) ] / *5000* miles = $0.00548/mi

Do it yourself conventional oil change: 
[ $2.00/qt x 3.5 qt + $15.00 (*Nissan filter from dealer*) ] / 3750 miles = $0.00587/mi

Do it yourself synthetic oil change: 
[ $4.40/qt x 3.5 qt + $12.00 (K&N Filter) ] / 3750 miles = $0.00731/mi

Dealership conventional oil change:
$29.95 / 3750 miles = $0.00799/mi

OK, did I do this right. Do those numbers look in the ballpark? If so, at the ~10,000 or so miles per year I'm doing, I'll spend $55 for synthetic changes with a good filter versus about the same for conventional oil with a Nissan filter from the dealer and versus $35 for conventional oil with a Nissan filter off the Web.

I decided 5000 miles between oil changes with synthetic is fine for my mostly highway driving with very little towing/hauling.

I think it's worth the extra $20/year.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

nissan_froniter2000 said:


> i have 36,000 and i want to change from regular oil to synthetic. will have any problems with doing so


How long have you owned the truck?
Do you know it's oil change history?

If you don't have any leaks or problems now, I wouldn't think you'd have any by switching to synthetic. If it's been treated well, it's still a young engine.


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

buy some redline. it's worth the money. the moly content alone makes it worth it...

and you wont leak. that has not been a problem with synthetics for well over 15 years now.


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## 05 NISMO 4X4 (Jun 4, 2005)

I had a 94 Ford Ranger I had bought used that had over 36K miles on it and I switched to Mobil 1. I would go 4-5K miles easy between oil changes, and probably could have gone longer, the oil always looked cleaner coming out of the truck than most dino oils do going in! I never experienced any problems with leaks after switching either! I think that's more of a problem if you have an older worn engine that already has slight leaks with the dino oil, then the synthetics tend to flow from those existing leaks a bit quicker. Also, if you steam clean your engine and remove the old gunk that has formed around these leaks, the synthetic will really show because you've effectively taken away the patch that had been formed by the gunk! Based on the mileage of your truck, you should be fine!


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## FastCrewCab (Nov 3, 2005)

I think we need a "Sticky" on synthetic oils. I don't really mind that the topic keeps coming up but maybe finding it all in a "Sticky" is better.

Any opinions? Also, how do we get a "Sticky" posted?


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## MrFancypants (Nov 18, 2005)

Mobil 1 recently released a new 5W40 sythetic oil aimed at the performance truck community. I'll be trying it after Im done my break-in period.

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Truck_SUV_5W-40.aspx

I used to be a huge fan of Royal Purple oil, but the cost just started getting silly. $8/quart just isn't worth it.

Now Im pretty much a Mobil 1 addict (filters and oil). I run Mobil 15W50 in my 300 whp turbocharged Infiniti G20, and it still looks like new under the valve cover after 90K miles.

Also I'd recommend everyone to check out Blackstone Labs (www.blackstone-labs.com) and get their oil analyzed. All the additives you read on the bottle mean nothing until you consistently track their effects on your engine.


- Greg -


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## wensk (Oct 30, 2005)

FWIW...I called the dealer I bought from to make a Saturday appointment....none available till 12/17. I called another dealer which is closer and was able to get a 10:30 a.m. appointment for this Saturday. I have @1200 miles and want to do a first oil change.

Both dealers said they use a synthethic blend. Dealer #1 says its kendall...Dealer #2 couldn't tell me over the phone.

I'm going to stick with 5-7K changes and let the stealer put their blend in.

And...if I like the service I get Saturday, I might just never go back to the other one.


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## mainerunr (Jul 30, 2005)

Ick. the dealer won't see my truck unless it needs some warranty work (rear passenger leaf squaks still and passenger seat rattles...someday I'll get around to making an appointment).

I've got 7350 miles and will be just under 7500 by sunday when the first batch of M1 will go in. Still need to stop at Napa and pick up a filter, bought the oil tuesday and the crush washer last time I went by the (not so local) dealer.

Wife's Accord has a whopping 1700 miles on it so in another 2 months I'll need to find the filter and find someplace that sells 5w20 M1.


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## donahue57 (Nov 29, 2005)

I did my 1st oil change at 500 miles. I put in Mobile 1 5w30 and a M1 filter. 2nd was at 1000 miles, same stuff. From there out I'll do the same every 3000 religiously.At 10,000 I plan to change all the gear lube in the m/t, trnsf. case, and diffs to M1 as well.


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## mainerunr (Jul 30, 2005)

Yeah, I need to learn how to do the tranny, diffs and xfer case....probably put synthetic in those too. My mechanic thinks its a waste of money but I just tell him it's my money....and with 2 new vehicles I'm hoping I wont need to call him anytime soon.


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

mainerunr said:


> Yeah, I need to learn how to do the tranny, diffs and xfer case....probably put synthetic in those too. My mechanic thinks its a waste of money but I just tell him it's my money....and with 2 new vehicles I'm hoping I wont need to call him anytime soon.


its easy, and you can re-use the washers despite what the manual says....

the rear diff will need some ultra-gray rtv for seal...

pm me for the torques when you wanna do it...

and use redline oil


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## 05 NISMO 4X4 (Jun 4, 2005)

mainerunr said:


> My mechanic thinks its a waste of money but I just tell him it's my money....and with 2 new vehicles I'm hoping I wont need to call him anytime soon.


Which is exactly why *he* thinks it's a waste of your money! He wants to see you more often! :cheers:


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

05 NISMO 4X4 said:


> Which is exactly why *he* thinks it's a waste of your money! He wants to see you more often! :cheers:


Just to throw some fuel (oil?) on the fire, is the synthetic really worth it? I can see the benefits in specific applications like high oil temperatures or continuous heavy loads.  I run Mobil 1 in my '66 Corvair because of the air cooled engine's high oil temperatures. I also run it in my '95 Winstar because it gets about 6ooo miles a year with about 90% of that on a cross country trip once a year. The Windstar gets an annual oil change. I run 5W-30 Valvoline dino oil in my 2001 Frontier 2.4 liter. It gets an oil (and filter) change about every 4000 miles of mixed driving. I believe that the oil type is less critical in this application than regular removal of the oil contaminants (e.g. acids). I'll agree that the synthetics might make the engine last longer but what is the significance of getting 250,000 miles versus 200,000 miles? As a data point, I sold my '79 Olds Custom Cruiser (350) engine at 335,000 miles. Oil consumption was a quart every 1000 miles at continuous high speed (less consumption around town). The engine always used dino oil with cahnges every 4000 miles. The valve covers had a light brown varnish but no sludge buildup (the heads never were removed from this engine).


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"Just to throw some fuel (oil?) on the fire, is the synthetic really worth it? I can see the benefits in specific applications like high oil temperatures or continuous heavy loads. I run Mobil 1 in my '66 Corvair because of the air cooled engine's high oil temperatures."_

This is good reasoning and a good practice. There are a lot of misconceptions in circulation about what 'synthetic' really means and how this relates to protecting an engine.

_"I also run it in my '95 Winstar because it gets about 6ooo miles a year with about 90% of that on a cross country trip once a year. The Windstar gets an annual oil change."_

Not a terrible idea either. Most synthetics such as Mobil 1 have a better additive package and a higher TBN ... their ability to fight off corrosion. This, along with their resistance to oxidation, makes them suitable for extended drain intervals. 

_"I run 5W-30 Valvoline dino oil in my 2001 Frontier 2.4 liter. It gets an oil (and filter) change about every 4000 miles of mixed driving. I believe that the oil type is less critical in this application than regular removal of the oil contaminants (e.g. acids)."_

I agree with the practice ... but don't care for the brand Valvoline as testing shows it to have one of the skimpiest additive packages in the industry.

_I'll agree that the synthetics might make the engine last longer but what is the significance of getting 250,000 miles versus 200,000 miles?"_

As long as the drain interval is kept reasonable (say, under 4,000 miles) I believe wear rates between mineral oils and synthetics are about the same. Synthetics give you more protection at temperature extremes and when the drain interval gets pushed farther ... but that's it.

_"As a data point, I sold my '79 Olds Custom Cruiser (350) engine at 335,000 miles. Oil consumption was a quart every 1000 miles at continuous high speed (less consumption around town). The engine always used dino oil with changes every 4000 miles. The valve covers had a light brown varnish but no sludge buildup (the heads never were removed from this engine)."_

I believe it and it goes to my point above. For many applications, 'conventional' oils are just fine ... and the newer Group II and II+ mineral oils are much better than the Group I oils of several years ago.

There is a great deal of discussion about oils on this forum. Search using the word "Chevron" or other brand names (spell them correctly!).


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## FrontierJourney (Nov 21, 2005)

*Ready for 1st oil change at 3,300 - Mobil1 Questions*

Just picked up 6 quarts of the new Mobil1 SUV/Truck performance syn oil. Ready to change but I also bought a Mobil1 synthetic oil filter, model M1-110, which O'Reilly told me fit my truck. Since they did not have an updated cross reference, is there one on the web? Can anyone confirm the correct Mobil1 synthetic oil filter model number for the 05/06 Frontier 4.0 V6 (VQ40)?

Thanks!

EDIT: found it - it is the M1-110:
http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=107732&highlight=M1-110

Gotta get used to searching a little harder!!!

Gonna go do this now - - -


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

FrontierJourney said:


> Just picked up 6 quarts of the new Mobil1 SUV/Truck performance syn oil. Ready to change but I also bought a Mobil1 synthetic oil filter, model M1-110, which O'Reilly told me fit my truck. Since they did not have an updated cross reference, is there one on the web? Can anyone confirm the correct Mobil1 synthetic oil filter model number for the 05/06 Frontier 4.0 V6 (VQ40)?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


Hmmmm.... I just used their synthetic in mine; I didn't know they had a *Truck & SUV* oil.


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## FrontierJourney (Nov 21, 2005)

*Newer I think...*

I think it's a newer product, since trucks generally have a much tougher engine load than passenger cars (even high-end ones). Seems better for performance and heavy-duty trucks (heck, it's probably the same formula with minor tweaks). Anyone have more detail information beyond the Mobil1 website on this product?




jerryp58 said:


> Hmmmm.... I just used their synthetic in mine; I didn't know they had a *Truck & SUV* oil.


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## John Kr (Nov 7, 2005)

I use always Mobil 1 to my cars. I use 5W-50 to my Navara and 0W-40 to my Volvo. Mobil 1 is extreme good oil. 

One time Mobil 1 – always Mobil 1.


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## Denny06 (Dec 20, 2005)

IMO, Amsoil is the best out there. It's 8 bucks a qt but it only requires once a year or 15K service intervals. Had that running in my Supercharged Tacoma. It worked so well that my valve ticking went away. Given we're not running high compression or forced induction, regular dino juice works fine. The most important factor of an oil change is the the oil but the filter.


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## MrFancypants (Nov 18, 2005)

FrontierJourney said:


> Ready to change but I also bought a Mobil1 synthetic oil filter, model M1-110, which O'Reilly told me fit my truck.


Next time youre at Walmart, swing by their automotive section and look at their SuperTech filters. Other than the box and label on the filter, notice how that sucker looks identical to the Mobil 1 filter you spent 5 times as much on? Yeah it pissed me off too 

Also, Ive read first-hand reports of Amsoil being rebadged Mobil 1. That was 10 years ago and may not necessarily be the case today, but it's still food for thought!



- Greg -


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

MrFancypants said:


> Next time youre at Walmart, swing by their automotive section and look at their SuperTech filters. Other than the box and label on the filter, notice how that sucker looks identical to the Mobil 1 filter you spent 5 times as much on? Yeah it pissed me off too
> 
> Also, Ive read first-hand reports of Amsoil being rebadged Mobil 1. That was 10 years ago and may not necessarily be the case today, but it's still food for thought!
> 
> ...


supertechs have switched manufacturers and thats no long true 


I only use redline synthetic (mmmmm moly & Group V polyol esters)


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

Several years ago, I would have taken Amsoil over Mobil 1 ... both are PAO-based synthetics.

The newest additive package of Mobil 1 is better than Amsoil's super dose of ZDDP.

Don't believe Amsoil's nonsense about going a year or 15,000 miles between oil changes. Change your freakin' oil.  

Champion Labs (no relation to Champion sparkplugs) in New Jersey makes (made?) both Mobil 1 and Supertech (and Bosch, Lee, STP, etc ...) but not to the same standards.

However, I don't like the Mobil 1 filter ... the high-density media can be restrictive in some applications.

And $10 for a filter? Fuggedabahdit! 

I like OEM Nissan filters for $4+ each ... and Wix, Baldwin or Hastings as cream-of-the-crop aftermarket brands. Purolators are one of the best filters for the money going ... even their cheaper filter.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

When you did your calculations...did you take into account that you can safely go 7k before an oil change with good sythetics vs 3k with conventional? I'm to lazy to do the math...but just a thought...

There are some that boast 10k between changes...I've heard of people just changing the filter inbetween...

I believe a guy on a frontier forum was doing his own research...sending in oil samples every 1k while using synthetics...I'll find it and post it if I can...good stuff.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html#wix
I'd do more research on this one. 



http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html#samples
There are more websites out there that have supportive evidence that goes along with this article. Popular Mechanics even did a bit on it a LOOOONNNGGG time ago. I am going to try and find it. I don't care what anyone says. Mobile One Full Syn will last at least 10,000 miles and longer. I used to change mine in my previous car every 20,000, but after reading this site linked above, I go 15,000 miles now on my Frontier with 3,000 filter intervals.

heres the one from the same guys for amsoil.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html


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## pyronn (Sep 26, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> I like OEM Nissan filters for $4+ each ... and Wix, Baldwin or Hastings as cream-of-the-crop aftermarket brands. Purolators are one of the best filters for the money going ... even their cheaper filter.


I am switching to M1 as well and it has been a long (long) time since doing oil myself. I thought Fram was the filter of choice? Have they lost their reputation?


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## Denny06 (Dec 20, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> Several years ago, I would have taken Amsoil over Mobil 1 ... both are PAO-based synthetics.
> 
> The newest additive package of Mobil 1 is better than Amsoil's super dose of ZDDP.
> 
> ...



There's plenty of research out their giving Amsoil the advantage over mobil 1. Amsoil pioneered the synthetic market 20 years ago so I trust them. At first I was skeptical so I tested my oil using their test kit. After 12000 miles and boosting 8 psi on my old tacoma my oil was still clean. For my nissan, I plan to use regular dino juice with Nissan Filters. Don't trust those discount auto store filters. They leave too much crap in the engine.


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

Fram is horrible, cardboard endcaps 

Use the nissan filter, the 15208-9E000 ONLY, it has a silicone anti drain back valve and is constructed very well. the other filter is a fram knockoff.

Amsoil is a good oil but I don't like the properties of a PAO based synthetic, nor do I like ZDDP. And Amsoil tends to thicken towards the end of it's "extended drain interval"

Redline is not that much more expensive, and you get a Polyol Ester Group V based synthetic with gobs of Moly


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## donahue57 (Nov 29, 2005)

It's safe to say that if you ask 10 people about oil/filters you will get 10 answers. 9 out of 10 of those people will have actual fact based or experience based opinions. My choice is always Mobile1 for my Frontier, and my Ninja ZX9R, thewifes Murano gets pennzoil or valvoline dino oil since it's leased. However my 94 Talon turbo AWD (autocross car) only gets Royal Purple. As far as filters The Frontier gets the M1, the Talon gets the same (lol..it's actually the same exact filter#), the murano gets a fram, and the Ninja gets a K&N since I have to special order the M1. In my opinion the K&N and the M1 filters are almost equal. As far as change intervals. The Frontier is 3000, the Talon is 1000, the Murano is 3000 and the Ninja is 1000.


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

no matter what, do not use fram. period. they are horrible, their anti drain back valves fail, they go into bypass very quickly, and their paper filter is capped with CARDBOARD!

Any oil enthusiast site will tell you fram is crap. any filter cutting site will post pics of fram crap. 

Everyone may say amsoil! no, Mobil 1! no, Redline... and many will argue wix/mobil/purolator/bosch/OEM filters, but you will always get a unifed NO to fram filters.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*avenger*: _"No matter what, do not use fram. period. they are horrible, their anti drain back valves fail, they go into bypass very quickly, and their paper filter is capped with CARDBOARD! Any oil enthusiast site will tell you Fram is crap. Any filter cutting site will post pics of Fram crap. "_

I agree ... with the following fine tuning: You _want_ filters to go quickly into bypass. The rub on Fram is that their weak valve _stays_ in bypass mode too long ... or even all the time, even when the oil warms up and should start passing through the filter media. :thumbdwn: 

_"There's plenty of research out their giving Amsoil the advantage over mobil 1. Amsoil pioneered the synthetic market 20 years ago so I trust them."_

Amsoil will tell you they're the best ... and they are good, but they overplay their hand. SHOW ME 3rd party testing in the past 2-3 years that shows (definitvely) that Amsoil is better than similarly-formulated Mobil 1. I'm a BITOGian and I've yet to see any such evidence.

And if you want to go 7,000 or more miles on the same oil, you best be in a warm climate _and_ be putting hundreds of miles on your vehicle every week. Cold weather and/or short trips necessitate more frequent oil changes. 

*Avenger*, I used to be a believer in Red Line oil ... but for street-driven vehicles, I'm convinced their polyolester chemistry is chemically aggressive to the point where it offsets the extra protection these high quality fluids (theoretically) offer.

Go to BITOG and look through the UOAs for Red Line samples. They universally show higher metals ... especially the softer lead and copper. The best results I've seen is when someone adds just one quart of Red Line to a sump of some other oil.

In fact, I am using such a blend right now ... 1 quart Red Line 5W-30 and 3.5 quarts Schaeffer 5W-30 synthetic (PAO) blend.

_"my 94 Talon turbo AWD (autocross car) only gets Royal Purple."_

Keep your eye on this stuff ... it thins out quickly!  But if you dump it at 1,000 miles, you should be safe.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

Does anyone know anything about the Mobil 1 Extended Performance with gauranteed protection for 15,000 miles. I read about it on their website and of course anything they say will be biased. I already respect them and use their products, but wanted to get feedback on the new stuff(Or I think it is new, because I have only seen it twice in stores over the last month). I looked on BITOG and did not see anything on it. (I might have overlooked though. The guy is doing great things and has a lot of great info, but I could care less for the layout of his website.<--Looked at it for the first time today) I have already been convinced and a dedicated user of M1's full syn(even though it appears some of you lean away from it) and was trying to figure out why it is any different not considering what they already stated on the M1 website. I'll search again for some answers but was hoping someone here knows something about it.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

They guarantee against any oil-induced engine failures if the oil is changed every 15,000 miles. 

I've gone 10,000 miles on my wife's mini-van between oil changes with Mobil1 Ext. Performance, and the oil looked almost new when I drained it from the vehicle.

If you want to use the Mobil1 Ext. Performance, I suggest buying it from Wal-Mart in the 5-qt. containers... you'll save at least $6-$10 every time you change your oil vs. buying it in 1-qt bottles from an auto parts store.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

avenger said:


> Any oil enthusiast site will tell you fram is crap.


That's not completely true. The more expensive Fram X2 is actually a pretty high-quality filter, and it's tested well in independent testing. It does not have cardboard filter media like the rest of the Fram filters. However, Fram doesn't list it on their Web site, so it looks like they quit making it.

However, I do agree that all cardboard Fram filters are a piece of junk.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

msubullyfan said:


> They guarantee against any oil-induced engine failures if the oil is changed every 15,000 miles.
> 
> I've gone 10,000 miles on my wife's mini-van between oil changes with Mobil1 Ext. Performance, and the oil looked almost new when I drained it from the vehicle.
> 
> If you want to use the Mobil1 Ext. Performance, I suggest buying it from Wal-Mart in the 5-qt. containers... you'll save at least $6-$10 every time you change your oil vs. buying it in 1-qt bottles from an auto parts store.


I hear that. I only buy m1 by the large containers because of the price.


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## MrFancypants (Nov 18, 2005)

mitchell35758 said:


> Does anyone know anything about the Mobil 1 Extended Performance with gauranteed protection for 15,000 miles.


Ive used it. It kind of smells like ATF. Probably tastes different too 

It clearly has a lot more additives than regular Mobil 1. Since it costs pretty much the same as regular Mobil 1, I ran the Extended Performance but on the same oil change interval (to get the benefits of the extra additives).


- Greg -


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## Denny06 (Dec 20, 2005)

_Amsoil will tell you they're the best ... and they are good, but they overplay their hand. SHOW ME 3rd party testing in the past 2-3 years that shows (definitvely) that Amsoil is better than similarly-formulated Mobil 1. I'm a BITOGian and I've yet to see any such evidence.

And if you want to go 7,000 or more miles on the same oil, you best be in a warm climate and be putting hundreds of miles on your vehicle every week. Cold weather and/or short trips necessitate more frequent oil changes. _ 

I was persuaded years ago by my Amsoil Dealer. He has a 1990 F-150 and changes his oil every 30K miles. He's running about 318,000 miles on it. No need for independent testing. Use the Amsoil or any other oil and order a test kit. You'll see the results with your own eyes. Look, I'm not trying to sell Amsoil to people. After running three cars with forced induction I stand by them. Others will have their own bias towards products they've used which is cool. If anyone wants good advice to oil can check out this site: http://www.motoroilbible.com/. Very useful info.


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## donahue57 (Nov 29, 2005)

I have to agree with deny06 on the motoroil bible, great info. I have used and had great results with Amsoil. However the Talon because of the poor lifter design would get lifter tick for whatever reason, the brand that caused the least is Royal Purple so I stuck with it without any problems. Also due to the fact that I change my oil at 1000-3000, depending on which vehicle it is, the added cost of amsoil isn't really worth it.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*Denny06*:_"I was persuaded years ago by my Amsoil Dealer. He has a 1990 F-150 and changes his oil every 30K miles. He's running about 318,000 miles on it."_

You can't trust dealer to be 100% honest about their own product ... and Amsoil dealers are notorious for wild stories about the miraculous properties of their products. I don't doubt that a truck's engine can have over 300,000 miles on it ... but changing the oil every 30,000 miles? _Maybe_ if he lives in a highly arid climate and does thousands of highway miles every month.

If it wasn't for good guys like *Pablo* on BITOG, I'd still believe that Amsoil was more a cult than a brand of oil.

Oh, and that Motor Oil Bible site? That's an Amsoil dealer. Read the whole thing carefully. It's got some good info on oil principles ... but it's mostly a deceptive attempt to get people to buy his book _and_ switch to Amsoil. 

This is also his site:

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/

Sneaky stuff like this really turns me off and convinces me they are up to no good.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

I'm pretty sure that in the test I was referring to amsoil, mobile 1, and redline were the best...however I'm fairly certain mobile 1 still lasted longer than amsoil as far as length of time before breakdown...I should have the link to that site either later tonight or tomorrow...my buddies dad is the one who gave me the link and my buddy is gonna get it from his dad agian...he drives a frontier (it wasn't on nissanforums btw) so that's how he found it. This guy would put in the filter recommended with the oil and send in samples every 1k...he's done...3 of 'em? I dunno...kinda slow cause he's doing it on his daily driver.

pretty much if you get one of those you're good. I mean I'm fairly certain that mobile 1 was the better but still...they're all great synthetics and you can go easily 10k with no probs. 

Again if my buddies dad will give me that link I'll put it up...I've formatted since I last had it...and I'm at work so I don't have time to visit the links already posted.

But yeah...those three are like the top 3 and you're good with any of 'em


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

SonsofWisdom said:


> I'm pretty sure that in the test I was referring to amsoil, mobile 1, and redline were the best...however I'm fairly certain mobile 1 still lasted longer than amsoil as far as length of time before breakdown...I should have the link to that site either later tonight or tomorrow...my buddies dad is the one who gave me the link and my buddy is gonna get it from his dad agian...he drives a frontier (it wasn't on nissanforums btw) so that's how he found it. This guy would put in the filter recommended with the oil and send in samples every 1k...he's done...3 of 'em? I dunno...kinda slow cause he's doing it on his daily driver.
> 
> pretty much if you get one of those you're good. I mean I'm fairly certain that mobile 1 was the better but still...they're all great synthetics and you can go easily 10k with no probs.
> 
> ...


I re-read your post before this one and realized it was not the same guy you where talking about. Sorry, and I don't know how to delete this post.


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## MTBPATH (Sep 14, 2005)

so is it better to go with the Mobil 1 SUV/Truck oil 5w-40?
versus maybe the Mobil 1 Extended Performance line?
just wondering. I need to know where to begin on my next oil change?
thanks.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"So is it better to go with the Mobil 1 SUV/Truck oil 5w-40?
versus maybe the Mobil 1 Extended Performance line?"_

I'm not sure. I thought the Truck & SUV was just one of their existing formulas repackaged ... maybe Delvac 1?

None are bad, of course.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

MTBPATH said:


> so is it better to go with the Mobil 1 SUV/Truck oil 5w-40?
> versus maybe the Mobil 1 Extended Performance line?
> just wondering. I need to know where to begin on my next oil change?
> thanks.


Unless you know a specific reason why you need to change oil weights (i.e., you know you have seals leaking, etc.), always use the factory-specified oil weight. If you have a lot of miles on your engine, going to a slightly heavier oil will help reduce seal leakage. However, I wouldn't go to a heavier oil unless I had evidence that leakage was a problem. 

Also, keep the difference between the numbers on oil weight as narrow as possible (although, this isn't nearly as important with synthetics as it is with mineral oils).

If you're going to go to the 15k oil change intervals, then use the extended performance. Otherwise, using the normal Mobil1 will work just fine, and you'll save about $7 per oil change.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

*YEAUP...go with factory*



msubullyfan said:


> Unless you know a specific reason why you need to change oil weights ....



yeah on viscosity very true...the dealer I work for has the hyundai guys in our shop...they use 10w-30 and toyota uses 5w-30...apparently if they use 5w-30 they've noticed knocking probs or something...

If you have seal probs...leaking due to synthetic...that means you have a problem with seals and they are on their way out anyway so just replace the seals...problem solved...as to weights it's really more geared for your climate...but YES best to use the recommended visc. you shouldn't have a problem going from 5w-30 to say 10w-30...and thicker oils like 40 and 50 are gonna cause fuel economy probs and won't flow quit as easily...ESPECIALLY in cold climates.

But really...for synthetic or conventional...5w-30 to 10w-30 is gonna work for any engine...at least well designed engines.

BUT still best to go with what is recommended by factory as far as weight goes.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"BUT still best to go with what is recommended by factory as far as weight goes."_

Absolutely! Unless you have a _really good_ reason from straying from the factory recommendatuions, don't. 

Thicker oils are not usually needed these days.

I've even some some guys use 5W-20 in vehicles asking for 5W-30, 10W-30, etc ... with good results. 

The newer additive packages featuring advanced boron, molybdenum and calcium based anti-wear compounds show very low wear rates (backed up by UOA) in engines.


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## MrFancypants (Nov 18, 2005)

5W30 is recommended for all driving conditions. If you check the FSM, youll see you can use other weights depending on ambient temperature. If it never gets below freezing, Nissan recommends 10W30. You can even run up to 20W50, again depending on ambient temperature. Youre totally fine running 5W40, especially if you live in a warmer climate.


- Greg -


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

Along the line with what *MrFancyPants* is saying, you can vary the weight in spec'd in your manual (after all, they don't know where you live).

However, do it _reasonably_. You can count on most oils to shear down out of grade after about 1,500-2,000 in a typical sump. A 5W-30 becomes a 5W-20. A 10W-40 becomes a 10W-30, etc ... This levels out at this time then begins to thicken as the oil oxidizes and picks up particulates.

10W-30 used to be more shear resistant than 5W-30 although I'm not sure if that's true. I've seen some 10W-30s shear down quickly ... even synthetics (Royal Purple).

However, most gas/diesel oils (5W-40, 15W-40, etc ...) are formulated to resist shearing as their drain intervals can be surprisingly long.

Anyway, bumping up one weight level is pretty safe ... if unnecessary in all but the warmest climates.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

I thought I'd bump this old thread up with a link to a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) and discussion about it.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003466

The oil, Chevron 5W-30, did really well here at limiting wear in a _supercharged_ Nissan Titan V-8. The supercharger arrangement seems to be making the engine rich, and the test shows some fuel dilution along with TBN depletion, but wear is very, very low. 

I've often said that a good mineral oil (one with a good additive package) will protect just as well as a synthetic during modest drain intervals.

This is a compelling piece of supporting evidence.


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## gixxerflier (Mar 14, 2006)

Bror,
Do you think a syn like Mobil 1 would give better fuel economy?
They are actually thinner, right?


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

Maybe, but I doubt it.

Mobil 1 starts out a bit thin (say a 5W-25 instead of the published 5W-30) but most mass-market oils like Chevron, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc ... thin out (shear down) to a 5W-20 somewhere in that first 3,000 miles.

So, for most of the oil use interval, the weight of the two in a given application should be pretty close.

Several years ago, Mobil 1 might have had the edge in thinness, but probably not now.


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## shayner (Mar 14, 2006)

is there a "right" time to switch to a synthetic?


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

any time you want. i use synthetic in everything i own. 2 jeeps a ford and a gmc now with my first oil change due on my frontier im switching to mobil 1.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

I don't think there's any particular time you need to switch.

I prefer to break-in an engine on mineral oils ... but only becasue they are cheaper and I feel it best to change the oil often ... synthetic is a waste in this application.

It's common for people with really high-mileage engines to fear switching to a PAO-based synthetic oil. This used to be a very real problem, but with better blending and better seals in engines (industry wide) it's not so much the risk it once was.

Still, if you have an old beater, it might be best to continue using a mineral oil rather than tempt fate by trying a PAO-type synthetic and have it sneak past a failing seal.


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## dmroberson (Jun 24, 2004)

Personally, I've already switched to synthetic in my vehicles. Only cause I put a lot of mileage on my cars. I did the same thing mentioned, broke in the car on mineral oils, then changed to synthetic, and haven't looked back. A bit more costly to get changed, but I change every 7k now.


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## mitsuorder (Aug 4, 2006)

Anyone try the German Castrol 0W 30? I just added it to my handed down '02 2.4L SE. To my knowledge the vehicle has ran on dyno Pennzoil for the past 118k miles.


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## insp09 (Jan 26, 2006)

You should change the oil more frequently when there is fuel dilution. That happens more often in winter and in cold climates when it takes longer for the engine to warm up.

Use synthetic during summer and change every 6 months, unless the oil smells like gas.

Use synthetic, or regular oil to save money, during winter and change every 2 or 3 months.


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