# Slight sound deadening, did I waste my time?



## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

I already had a little bit of this stuff because I bought it for my licence plate. It was the only rattle that I had. So I had a nice piece left over. I was able to do the plate in one piece since there is nothing to go around, its rectangle, and the contours are really easy to follow.

I was wanting to get a little feel for some real sound deadening, to see if I wanted to do more of it. I did just a coupple of inches around my speaker and housing, since you can buy kits just for that little bit I figured maybe it would help out some.

I havn't had a chance to go out and drive it yet to see if it makes any real difference, however that little bit was a PITA and I'm not sure if I'm gonna go do anymore. I'm sure around the middle of the panel will be easier since I won't have to go around a circle, just fill in a little crevis and go around a bolt here and there.


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## TheMadCheshire (Dec 30, 2004)

Well, part of the reason they do sell those overly priced 2 packs just for the speakers is that they actually do work. Now its not gonna be like something that'll make it so you can whisper in your car at 60+ mph. But either way, some is better than none. I'm sure you'll notice something. if nothing else, the speaker won't rattle against the door anymore(was really annoying on my car). I did my door(just the inner skin) and noticed a huge difference. the midrange sounded so much better. I then did the outter door skin and it blocks so much road noise. Next on the list is the whole trunk and then floor. Just keep in mind, when you do anything, don't cover up bolts or wires otherwise you'll be kicking yourself later when you need to undo/redo some wiring or something.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

yeah, I watched out for the bolts.

and I don't have to worry about my speaker rattling agaisnt my door anyways.

I think I'm gonna go back in and do the whole bottom 1/4 of the door, maybe the front 1/2.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

I can't imagine that would make any kind of audible difference. It might reduce some resonance problems and get rid of some rattling that you might have, past that it won't do much of anything. The problem with doors is the cancellation caused by those HUGE holes in the speaker's baffle. The main point of deadening is to seal up the holes, if you don't seal up the holes then you might notice a little less rattling but that's about it.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> I can't imagine that would make any kind of audible difference. It might reduce some resonance problems and get rid of some rattling that you might have, past that it won't do much of anything. The problem with doors is the cancellation caused by those HUGE holes in the speaker's baffle. The main point of deadening is to seal up the holes, if you don't seal up the holes then you might notice a little less rattling but that's about it.


I was really hoping to get a respose from you.

Like I said, I've never heard any rattle before, so I guess I'll go back in sometime and finish up most if not all of the door.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

good luck, it's a pita

at least you've got some of it done already


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> good luck, it's a pita
> 
> at least you've got some of it done already



yeah, at least I've got the hardest shape to cut around done.


also, do you reccomd putting some cardboard or something like that overtop of the larger holes so I don't have to worry about the glue sticking to the window while its down?


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

xbrandonx said:


> yeah, at least I've got the hardest shape to cut around done.
> 
> 
> also, do you reccomd putting some cardboard or something like that overtop of the larger holes so I don't have to worry about the glue sticking to the window while its down?


Actually I had my doors skinned and have done several other install's. 

What I do is cut one piece to cover the entire door. I place it over the door and figure out where the holes are. I then flip the piece over so the removable paper is exposed and draw out where the holes are. I then score the holes with a razor blade (only cuting through the paper), when you peel it off to stick on the door the holes will still be covered by the paper and you will not have a bunch of crap sticking too it. 

Workes perfect. I have done this with several different brands of damping material.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

The window doesn't come that close to the opening, so you shouldn't worry about that. You could put a piece of cardboard or sheet metal over the opening if you wanted, it would increase the strength and should help isolate the front and rear waves so they don't interfere. I didn't use anything, but if you were willing to take the time it would be a pretty good idea. Just remember, if you have to get to your window motor for any reason, the more crap you have in the way of that hole the harder it will be (especially if you have a piece of sheet metal blocking you).


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> The window doesn't come that close to the opening, so you shouldn't worry about that. You could put a piece of cardboard or sheet metal over the opening if you wanted, it would increase the strength and should help isolate the front and rear waves so they don't interfere. I didn't use anything, but if you were willing to take the time it would be a pretty good idea. Just remember, if you have to get to your window motor for any reason, the more crap you have in the way of that hole the harder it will be (especially if you have a piece of sheet metal blocking you).


Thats why I said cardboard, it will cut just as easy as the sound deadner will cut


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