# 1984 Nissan Sentra...Need Help!



## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey there friends, I'm looking at buying a Nissan Sentra 1984, 4 speed, diesel. I'm buying it from a friend, but she was wanting me to check to see how much someone would buy one for. I'm not sure if this is the place I should post this, but I was looking for some help.

Since the car is older, it's been setting for a few years now. The clutch is frozen to the pressure plate (if you all know how to fix that I'd greatly appreciate it). As well the color is fading and I think there is some rust damage to the car. Other than that the car has 104,000 miles on it and has only had one other owner. It's been kept in good condition, except for these few years she hasn't driven it. If you all could help me and give me a good price for the car I would appreciate it. 

Also if someone know's how to fix the clutch being seized to the pressure plate I would again appreciate it. Thanks again everyone.

Taylor


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Wow! Haven't seen a B11 Sentra diesel is a long time! They weren't real fast, but they did get excellant fuel mileage. Probably the best thing to do with the clutch is to replace it with a new clutch assy. As far as value, I can't think it'd be much, especially if there's rust issues. I can't picture one being worth over $1000. You could try New Cars, Used Cars, Blue Book Values & Car Prices - Kelley Blue Book to look up an approximate value.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey thanks smj. I appreciate the help. On the clutch issue, I was looking at some websites that were saying you could probably unseize the clutch by sitting in neutral with the car on for fifteen minutes. Then pushing the gas numerous times quickly. This will heat up the clutch and pressure plate to release. I don't know if that would work.

Do you know how hard it is to replace the clutch assembly on one of these? Since this car is so old as well, KBB doesn't go back that far to give a price value of the vehicle. 

I have a 93 Buick Century in fair condition. KBB says it's worth is only 750. So I'm assuming the 84 Nissan wouldn't be any higher than that. I could be wrong though. Thanks again SMJ.

Taylor


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Also guys, I was wondering what would be some good things to check out to see if their in good condition. Since the car has been setting for 2 to 3 years. What would be some of the things that you would think that would likely be dry-rotted, rusted, etc. I would appreciate it. 

An uncle of mine was discouraging me from buying the car, since it has been setting for a few years. He said it would be a money guzzler, more money put into rather than gotten from it. I don't know if he is right. I might have to replace the clutch assembly. Then possibly engine gaskets. What do you all think would be some other likely things needed to replace? Do you think I ought to buy it? 

I'd probably buy it for 5 or 6 hundred.

Thanks.


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

I wouldn't suggest trying anything drastic to unstick the clutch, you don't want to break anything. Just look into getting a new clutch kit, it probably needs one anyway. You really don't want to do any damage to the engine or transmission as they are VERY HARD to ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to find.

Something you have to take into account in regards to the car, it is a diesel model. There were very few of those sold in the United States, so value is going to be much higher than for the standard petrol version. First thing, get the car running and test drive it. The brakes are more than likely seized, but that can be a simple fix (i.e. a hammer). Check for body roll (bad struts / springs), and any random clunking or bad vibration (ball-joints, cv axles, wheel bearings). If several of these things seem bad, walk away unless the price compensates.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yeah, it might be worth as much on scrap value as it is on selling value, but it is a rare model and if you find someone who really wants one for whatever reasons, you never know! Mileage is pretty low for an 84 model. The mention of rust is always a concern. As far as the clutch, of course try what you can to get it to unseized. If not, the clutch job is similar to any other clutch job on older Nissan front wheel drives. ALLDATA lists time at 5.2 hours. R&R goes as follows:

Disconnect battery cables, then remove battery and battery support bracket from vehicle. 
Remove radiator reservoir tank, then drain transmission fluid. 
Raise and support vehicle and remove driveshafts. When disconnecting driveshafts, use care not to damage oil seals. After disconnecting the driveshafts, insert a suitable bar so that the side gears will not rotate and fall into the differential case. 
Remove wheel house protector, then disconnect control and support rods from transmission. 
On Pulsar and Sentra models, remove engine gusset securing bolt and engine mounting. 
On Stanza models, remove exhaust pipe attaching bolt and nuts, then the engine gusset attaching bolts and transmission protector. 
Disconnect clutch control cable from withdrawal lever. 
Disconnect speedometer cable from rear extension housing. 
Disconnect back-up lamp and neutral switch electrical connectors at transmission case. 
Using a suitable jack, support engine with a wooden block placed between oil pan and jack. 
Support transmission with a suitable jack. 
On Stanza models, remove starter motor. 
Remove engine mount attaching bolts. 
Remove engine-to-transmission attaching bolts, then separate engine from transmission and lower transmission assembly from vehicle. 
Reverse procedure to install.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

That's the problem Beyond. It won't move since the clutch is frozen to the pressure plate. I'd have to buy it first then replace the clutch kit to see if it's in working condition.

Do you all think there would be engine troubles since the car has sat for a while? In honesty, how much would you all pay for a car that is in it's current condition? Blue book doesn't give a value. But I would say it can't be worth very much can it? I could be wrong, but then again...

Thanks guys.

Taylor


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yes, it could very well turn into a money pit. The big dollar item on these was the injection pump. If they fail, a new one lists for over $2600! Some of the things to look at include any rubber items, such as fuel hoses, engine mounts, tires, belts. This engine had two timing belts, one for the engine and the other for the injection pump; both of these should be replaced. Clutch master and brake master cylinder seals and brake caliper piston and wheel cylinder seals also typically don't fare well to sitting for long periods of time. As far as being worth more than a gas engine Sentra, I'm not too sure about that. Being "rare" doesn't necessarily make them worth more. Just like diesel Maximas and 720 pickups aren't necessarily worth more than there gas counterparts. Without knowing more about your situation, it's hard to give you advice on the purchase. If you're looking for a good, practical car and you're on a limited budget, I would suggest you find something a little newer, especially if you are going to be paying someone to do the work on the car. For what you may pay to get this car on the road, you may be able to locate a B13 Sentra that will be more practical and cheaper to repair in the long run, besides being a much more comfortable car to drive. If you have a good car and a little money to put into restoring a somewhat interesting Sentra (in the US, anyways. I'm sure they were quite common in other countries), then it might be worth considering. If the body is solid and doesn't need major body repair, I'd probably look to spend $400 on it.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Gotcha SMJ. Man I appreciate your help. Thanks a whole lot bro. If I decide to buy it then I will no doubt be back on here looking for help replacing different parts and looking for more info. Thanks again SMJ.

Taylor


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