# Control arm brace



## Guest (Dec 25, 2002)

Can anyone tell me where to find a lower control arm brace like the Nu-tech piece I've tried stillen and only found them for a B14 sentra 200SX do they have them for a B13 sentra ????????????? :jump:


----------



## PhattyB13 (Apr 30, 2002)

I think there was someone a while back that had made a custom bar for us.. that was just like the N-Tech bar.. although i cant remember who it was...does anyone remember who this guy was??


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

Shigspeed:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/shigspee...order=&.view=t&.done=http://photos.yahoo.com/


----------



## Guest (Dec 28, 2002)

Thanks Do you know if he still makes them or has any ??
The only thing I would possibly do different is to make
the center piece bigger and use U-bolts.



not to diss anyones ideas though it's great the way 
it is.


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

Contact (PM) SHigSpeed . He's a moderator on these boards.

The old N-Tech design with the larger center piece and u-bolts has a small design flaw. It hangs too low. I have these on my cars right now and just a few hours ago I raked a raised portion of asphalt with the bolt ends. Definately not the best feeling in the world.

The SHigSpeed design is supposed to improve on the original design.


----------



## PhattyB13 (Apr 30, 2002)

how much was that bad boy.. and was it a noticable difference??


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

Forgot how much they were. Couldn't have been too bad for me to buy them and I was lucky as it was one of the last N-Tech batches. I don't auto-x or road race enough to give you a full summary of any improvements but it does seem to firm up the front end. Just have to watch out for little animals that you normally would be able to drive over.


----------



## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Get out your handy-dandy Dremel rotary tool and cut the U-bolt ends. Worked for my bent ones. Now the bar just glides over the dead cattle instead of hooking the rotting carcass with the u-bolts.


----------



## gottabfast (Sep 22, 2002)

ha ha ha...that's sick dude...there should be a salt shaker on the other end to preserve the meat after you slice it?


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

> _Originally posted by BiH_
> *Get out your handy-dandy Dremel rotary tool and cut the U-bolt ends.*


Already did that. Granted I don't hit too many critters now, just on rare occasions.


----------



## cranium (Oct 8, 2002)

question (i don't know if it will work)

why couldn't you just weld an spot on the cross member to attach the brace. i'm just thinking that the clamps he uses would "flex a little"


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

The reason for the design was for ease of installation. The minute you tell someone that they will have to cut or weld to install a part, you loose a majority of your customers (unless it's a CAI).

As for the flexing, I do hear occasional popping from what I think is the movement of the u-bolts on the cross-member (not during turns). At least I hope that's what it is.


----------



## cranium (Oct 8, 2002)

i was asking not so much for resale but for my personal use


----------



## Hawaii_SE-R (Apr 30, 2002)

Well, I don't see why you can't spot weld the N-Tech brace onto the cross-member rather than using the u-bolts. That would be your call. I bolted mine on in the event that I didn't like the clearance problems. The jury is still out on that decision.


----------



## cranium (Oct 8, 2002)

i only brought it up because of the preceived clearance problems, thats all. it may work, it may not (cause of the flexpipe) we'll see.


----------



## SHigSpeed (Apr 30, 2002)

Here's the scoop on the design features of the lower control arm brace... The reason why the center section is relatively thin compared to the N-Tech is for ground clearance issues. It's only 1/2" thick compared to nearly 1" on the N-Tech. Also, since the bar is loaded in tension and compression only, it doesn't matter, especially since it's at a supported end. The band clamps are much simpler to install than the u-bolts, and the side clearance to a header is way better than the bolts. The bolts tend to interfere with some headers' flexpipes. Also, the purpose of the clamps is to prevent the brace from flexing away from the crossmember and they are plenty strong enough to handle that job. Also, no dremeling, and no "arrestor hook" issues with roadkill! :^)

Heck, since I build these things to order for the most part, if you have an idea of welding something to the crossmember instead of the clamps, I'd be happy to fab something custom. I just think the clamps work great...

Later,

-SHig


----------



## PhattyB13 (Apr 30, 2002)

how much you selling these for Shig.... also does anyone have a pics of them?


----------



## SHigSpeed (Apr 30, 2002)

PhattyB13 said:


> *how much you selling these for Shig.... also does anyone have a pics of them? *


See http://photos.yahoo.com/shigspeed for pics.

They're $175 shipped.

Let me know if you have questions.

-Scott


----------



## cranium (Oct 8, 2002)

my idea of welding something to the cross member will not work as i origanally thought. the flexpipe is in the way. the alternitive is to angle the brace to the rear of the car and attach by (but not nessasarily(sp?) on) the crossmembers rear bolts.


----------



## SHigSpeed (Apr 30, 2002)

cranium said:


> *my idea of welding something to the cross member will not work as i origanally thought. the flexpipe is in the way. the alternitive is to angle the brace to the rear of the car and attach by (but not nessasarily(sp?) on) the crossmembers rear bolts. *


Well, here are some issues. The way that the brace enhances performance is by fixing the forward mounting position of the control arm. Because of the way it was designed (ease of assembling the car - allowing the engine to be installed on the line without anything in the way) the front mounts hang out in nowhere with very little rigidity. The brace keeps these points from either squeezing together or spreading apart from cornering, accelerational, or braking forces. To accomplish this, the brace must be very rigid in compression and tension. Ideally, you'd put a straight shot of tube between the two points for maximum rigidity per amount of material. If you start angling the brace back, you lose your straight shot and therefore need more metal to get the same rigidity. More metal is more weight. Also, if you did go back to the rear bolts of the crossmember, you'd have to somehow negotiate around the header secondary and the transmission.

I have put a LOT of though into the design (granted the starting point was the N-Tech bar) and I think I have made a significant improvement as far as reducing compromises is concerned (ground clearance, hardware vulnerability, rigidity, header clearance, ease of installation). Of course I'm always open to suggestions on how to further improve the design.

Just thought I'd clear that up! :^)

-Scott


----------



## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

I'm trying to convince JP314 to make some after he finishes the RSTB's he's making for the B13. What are you charging for your control arm braces Shighspeed? I might be interested in purchasing one. I might end up making my own once I get some warm weather to have a closer look. I like the idea of it being a tube instead of a thick bar or iron like the N-tec brace is. Although I shudder to think what kind of damage could be done if something were to catch the tube, it could really fuck up things. Unlike that thick bar, that wouldn't budge.


----------

