# Sticky  Step by step instructions -Upper Timing Chain Tensioner



## RBapt (Nov 24, 2007)

I just completed replacing the upper tensioner on a 1995 Sentra GLE (1.6). I figured I would post instructions and pics to help people in the future. I have to say thanks to 'Kyu-ju-kue', 'tieggonzalez', and 'off_da_meter' for helping me get started and prviding advice on this one. My car has 233K on it and is still running strong, however it sounded like a tank. I though the entire timing chain would need to be replaced, but through the advice of people on this forum, I checked the upper timing chain tensioner. IT WAS TOTALLY SHOT. Cost of the tensioner was $55 from Advance, and total time spent was about 2 hrs. Hopefully I can leave the pics for these instructions on my server, however if someone wants to make them permanent here or add to them, feel free.

Let's get started:

*Step 1*: Remove the valve cover and move the Coolant Reservoir and Relay box out of the way. The reservoir (1) should just lift out. To remove the relay box (2), there are two screws that hold it in place. You may need to unplug a relay or two to get to the screws:









Shown are where the two screws are that hold the relay box. Now is a good time to remove the reservoir bracket (A). It'll give you room later.









*Step 2*: I moved the power steering reservoir out of the way (Screws 1,2,3). Next you will need to remove the engine mount bracket that attaches to the head. (Screws 4,5,6)









*Step3*: Support the Engine with a jack. (I placed mine under the oil pan). Remove the engine mount (Screws 1,2,3,4)









*Step4*: Remove the upper timing chain cover. There are a couple of nuts and 5 bolts.









YOU WILL GET DIRTY!!! (SHAMELESS PLUG......GO JACKETS!)









*Step5*: Now your upper chain cover should be removed. Inspect the tensioner and chain. 









Here is the tensioner. Go ahead and remove it if it looks bad (Screws 1,2)









Mine was totally shot. There was no plastic left on the tensioner and the chain was eating into the metal (the cause of all the engine noise). Old and new tensioner shown.








Another view...see how it ate the metal (!?)









*Step 6*: Install new tensioner using the old bolts. Be sure to release the pin if your new tensioner came with one!









*Step 7*: Re-assembly is reverse of dissassembly. At the advice of some folks on this message board, I used RTV Gold to seal the upper tensioner cover. I just ran a bead similar to the factory bead that was on there. I had to monkey with the engine a bit to get the mount bolt back in. Nothing major, but if the hole doesn't line up perfectly, just push and tug on the engine and adjust the jack to get it to line up.

Hopefully this will help someone else. All in all, this took 2 hours of work. 
Robert


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## mcr_nismo (Jan 15, 2008)

thank you so much man! i had similar noises and as soon as i popped the valve cover off i checked the tensioner and it was just like yours, maybe even a little more worn down! i have mechanical background from shop class but i lack experience and i might have gotten someone else to do this for me if it wasn't for your picture instructions! thank u.


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## RBapt (Nov 24, 2007)

Hi mcr_nismo,
I'm glad it helped!
Robert


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Yeha!! I just bought a Sentra and the seller told me that I did not want it because it need a lot of work on the timing chain! Man O man I hope like heck that this is all I need!! Thanks a bunch! Nothing like an idiot proof pictorial! I'll let you know how I make out!! Do you have the part number?? Thanks


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## noiseordinance (May 30, 2008)

Hi there. I have a Nissan Sentra 97 base model with 120k miles. It was only owned by my mom and taken care of quite well. After it was given to me about a year ago, I noticed it had a light knocking/rattling sound coming from within the engine. I took it to a mechanic in town this morning thinking it might need a lifter adjustment (I'm not too mechanically savvy, as you can tell by my own diagnosis). The mechanic instead said that it sounds like my timing chain may be shot and that I should buy a new car, or pay the $1300 to fix it (which isn't worth it since the car needs other work as well).

Based on the mileage of my car, and the fact that it's been taken care of pretty well, would you guys recommend this procedure? I have a socket set and all the basic tools, and I'm pretty handy when it comes to doing things, but I've only done basic service on cars. However, I'm thinking maybe I should try the procedure before throwing the car out. Afterall, I'm a poor college kid and could do without incurring more debt. 

What do you guys think? Any advice would be excellent.


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Step by step right here! This Gentlemen was good enough to show us what more than likely is your problem,the tensioner. I just picked up a 96 with 190k and it run's like a top after I just tuned it up! My tensioner will be here in the A.M and then I will install it. Hopefully it isn't the whole timing set?? But with 120k I would say it's more than likley a given that it's the simple tensioner. New car???? Get cracken and replace it no one has any dough for a new car these day's we are all saving up for our winter oil!!! Lol!!


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## noiseordinance (May 30, 2008)

So if I understand correctly, there are no gaskets are sealants needed for this procedure? Thanks so much for replying by the way. 

I just want to make sure I grab all the right parts from the store, besides the upper timing belt tensioner.


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

I just did mine and sure enough it was the cause of the noise! As far as gaskets go I would recamend getting a new valve cover gasket because the original more than likley will have some shrinkage. I replaced mine and so far it seems to have cured my oil issues. To bad the damage is already done previouse owner had never done anything about the oil and I have a huge mess under the hood now!!


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## noiseordinance (May 30, 2008)

Just wanted to let you all know, this fixed my problem as well. I'm a novice with mechanics, but this fixed a problem that a mechanic told me would cost $1300 to fix, and took me only one hour with a car jack, a socket set, screwdriver, gasket sealant and optional valve gasket replacement. No more noise.


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Cool! You see just because you are not a mechanic does not mean that you can't be one if you want to be one or if you need to become one out of necessity!!! Was there a lot of plastic missing from the foot? I was thinking that what ever is missing from this piece could very well be sitting in the oil pan waiting to get sucked up into the screen........Just a thought......


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## noiseordinance (May 30, 2008)

I don't really know much about how an engine functions, but the way I envision the wear on the tensioner is a very slow wear, as opposed to the entire chunk of plastic coming off at once. I imagine most of the tiny, tiny fragments of plastic-dust end up being caught in oil filters throughout the 120k miles driven so far. That's just a guess though. One thing that's amazing is how long the plastic even lasts on these tensioners. Quite brilliant.


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## gatorblue92 (Jun 4, 2008)

nice write-up... anyone know if the procedure is the same on the B13 Sentra with the same motor?


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## jbonjon (Jun 2, 2008)

This is one cool dude! Up for the man! I'm having the same problem with my B12 and after i read this i called up a friend so that we can check it out. I have a strong gut feeling that it is the culprit of the sound on my engine. Hope other Nismo's out there would be kind enough to share their knowledge to help other save a lot of dough! Salute to all Nismoneers out there! Gud Jeb!


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## jbonjon (Jun 2, 2008)

more tech tips pleease!..I'm a real dork when it comes to cars and i've been pulling my hair to know other things just to make my Baby in top condition. I've been there, done that but i always ends up fixing a new problem everytime i go under the hood!

thanks a lot!!


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## carlo_2222 (Jan 14, 2008)

*upper chain tensioner*

will it be the same in my engine? my car is 2001 nissan sentra 1600 QG16DE engine,manual trans, similar block in your photo. when i rev the chain rattles and a bit loss of power when pulling at the same time rattling. 

Heres the photo of my engine..


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## Pachuco76 (Jun 26, 2008)

Hello guys!!! I'm new to the forum and I see there's plenty of information!!! I just got a 98 Sentra GXE with almost 99000 and notice a small rattle coming from that side since day one. It reminds me of those old VW beatle, but not as loud. I've never done anything like this before, but the hell with it, I'll give it a try this saturday.Quick questions: Whats the best way to clean the tensioner cover before aplying the silicone?, Do I have to apply any silicone to the valve cover gasket? When tightening the bolts for the VCG do I have to follow any order? Same with the tensioner cover? How tight (I'm afraid of squeezing all of the silicone out).
Thanks,


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## mcr_nismo (Jan 15, 2008)

you can use permatex grey rtv silicone, its the same kind of silicone nissan uses, you can use a scraper with a razor blade it works fine, just try to avoid gouging the mating surface, and yes use some on the valve cover, and if you need more info go to phatg20.net and go to downloads and get yourself a copy of the fsm (factory service manual) from there for your sentra.


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## nadrealista (Feb 15, 2007)

*what happen to the pictures?*

great write up btw


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## bearzbear (Aug 17, 2008)

The nice pictures that would be so very helpful to see seem to have gone AWOL!

Bummer.


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

RBapt said:


> I just completed replacing the upper tensioner on a 1995 Sentra GLE (1.6). I figured I would post instructions and pics to help people in the future. I have to say thanks to 'Kyu-ju-kue', 'tieggonzalez', and 'off_da_meter' for helping me get started and prviding advice on this one. My car has 233K on it and is still running strong, however it sounded like a tank. I though the entire timing chain would need to be replaced, but through the advice of people on this forum, I checked the upper timing chain tensioner. IT WAS TOTALLY SHOT. Cost of the tensioner was $55 from Advance, and total time spent was about 2 hrs. Hopefully I can leave the pics for these instructions on my server, however if someone wants to make them permanent here or add to them, feel free.
> 
> Let's get started:
> 
> ...


Can we get the pictures back?

Jason


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## Revansbane (Aug 25, 2008)

Would you happen to still have the pictures to this step by step instructions?? They seem to not show when I open the document. Thanks


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## Revansbane (Aug 25, 2008)

I was reading the original post on taking the timing chain cover off. Says its just a few nuts and bolts. When I look into my Haynes book if you want to take the timing chain cover off you have to drain all fluids from the car and the crankshaft pully has to be removed. 
If this is true wont I need to line up the heads by taking a wrench and turning the crankshaft to close the valves before it comes off?? And would I need a pully tool to take the crankshaft pully off??
Or do I even need to go this far or do all this????
I assume as well both belts would need to be taken off. Just seems like the is alot in the way in order to take the timing chain cover off according to the book.


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## bearzbear (Aug 17, 2008)

*Try 8 hours...!!*

I just did mine.

Haven't had time to put the pix together for a post.

Took me 8 hours start to finish.
Not a bad job, but on my '94 Sentra, there was a small tiny, minor, slight problem to be overcome.

Everything went fine up to the point where the chain has to be removed. That took about 2 hours of real time that included taking _out_ the tools and jack... removing the stuff that is in the way. The second session was removing the valve cover, and then the front top cover. 

Btw, the factory manual is totally worthless for information on this... ignore it.

Well the kicker comes in that you _must remove_ the two top sprockets to get the chain off. Taking the tensioner out doesn't give you enough slack to lift the chain off (ain't no bicycle!). That's not too bad, because Nissan was smart enough to put some flats on the cam that you can put an open end wrench on. They will come in handy when you need to put the chain in the proper place during the install.

Well, the sprockets come off ok (breaker bar), and then the chain just hangs there... but... ummm... it won't come off!!

Why (pix to follow, if I get to it)? Well, in some automotive engineer's _infinite wisdom_ they put a very nice rib in the casting running directly UNDER the lower apex of the lower sprocket!! Pure genius! So, there is NO WAY that the chain can go below the sprocket and slide off!

Great.

I tried taking the bolt out of the lower sprocket, although I was very worried about then tension of the lower chain pulling it down and making it impossible to get it back on again. BUT, that did not provide enough clearance either!

I figured, well, they would never design something that could not be taken out... so I took the dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut the top timing chain so that I could manoever the thing "properly" and get it to slide off, making more clearance for the next step (below)... but no, that didn't buy me anything either. 

What I ended up doing is grabbing my trusty "Dremel" type tool, with the flex extension, a small milling tool in the end, and _*removing the g-d---n rib!!*_ so that there was bloody clearance so that the chain could slip out!!

If your block is like this one, be sure to make a provision to keep the aluminum chips from getting down into the lower engine section.

I used a sock to stuff it, and a vacuum cleaner with a 1/2"OD hose taped to the suction end to suck chipz... worked fine. 

So... after spending a few hours dorking with trying to get the chain off by legit means, I finally was able to merely slip the thing off...

If you subtract the 3-4 hours of dorking the stupid thing to try to get it off by "normal" means then my total time was more like 3-5 hours (depending on what you count).

No way is it a two hour job, unless you have some special magic tricks, at least on this car...

But anyhow the stupid thing runs ok now... now if I can figure out why it stalls on de-acceleration coming to a stop...

_-_-bearzbear

PS. disregard Mr. Haynes - no fluids to remove, unless you plan to take the bloody head off the engine!!


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## Revansbane (Aug 25, 2008)

ok am in the process of taking the lower tensioner out. Guy said at work its just a couple of bolts and that you may have to remove a belt. I finally found the bloody thing and guess what.....

The freaken thermostat housing sits right over it. So now I suppose I am gonna have to remove the housing or the lower tensioner will never come out.

Anyone have to do this before?? Am still gonna change the upper one as well and looked around....it doesnt seem all that bad to do. Looks easier than the lower one, but people are telling me its my lower one thats bad.....

any thoughts


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## CNJ98Sentra (Mar 3, 2009)

Wow this is a great write up.... I am going to have to do this soon... I am starting to get that metal can rattling fomr my engine bay..... so my question is this does anyone have a part # to the tensioner?? I went to order it and the guy behind the counter looked at me like I had 3 heads....:wtf:


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## 98_200SX_GA (Apr 7, 2009)

Does anyone know if this is the exact same procedure for a 98 200SX 1.6?

Thanks


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## p0wer1 (May 23, 2009)

no pics?? anyone have pics for this task? thanks!


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## dwayne505 (Jul 28, 2009)

*Great post!*

I just replaced the upper tensioner on my '98 GXE, thanks to those that posted here! :woowoo: I discovered that my tensioner was worn pretty good. Most of the plastic was gone and the chain was getting close to the metal underneath the plastic. I have 138K miles on the car. I could sort of hear some noise before replacing this. I imagine that once the chain wears through the plastic and begins to rub the metal it would be noticeably louder. 

Does anyone know how much the lower tensioner wears? Just curious how long I can expect the lower chain tensioner to last.


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## dwayne505 (Jul 28, 2009)

*Pics of my upper timing chain tensioner with 138K miles on it.*

You can see how much wear the plastic has suffered. Wow what a big difference with the new tensioner installed. The car is much smoother and quieter now!


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

can someone bring the pictures back? i have 140k on my GA16 and i'm noticing this diesel-like rattle at idle and this might be the chain, tensioner, and/or guides. 
and to make matters worse, i just replaced the distributor about a week ago due to a crank-no-start condition. No spark on that as well. 

Thanks.


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## tr59210 (Mar 2, 2008)

Would anybody be kind enough to re-post the installation pictures?? thanks


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

the engine brace i had setup to support the engine. a floor jack from the bottom would also suffice.








a closer look at the general area where the tensioner is at when the valve cover is removed.
















comparison between the new unit(left) and old(right), with the worn plastic guide.


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## dfresh (Jun 19, 2004)

how do you know when the tensioner needs replacing. I can hear the valves tick but most high mileage cars will do that. I have 157k miles on it now. It prob was never replaced. also does anyone have the p/n? someone re-host the pictures.


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## madhatter256 (Feb 2, 2010)

It can be hard to tell. One way to check is to take off your valve cover and just take a look with a flash light and you'll see it.

I saw mine has been worn out to the bare metal and I need to replace it soon. It's got 234k miles.

Seeing that you have 157k miles, it would good to just check and see.

thanks for posting the pictures azkicker


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## Krackerjack9 (Apr 18, 2010)

Hi just bought a 97 Sentra 5 speed pretty decent condtion for 800.00 , has 148k on it interior is excleeeeeeeeeent, engine compartment looks all orginal, except of a cooling fan. Going to replace plugs and wires, I checking the linkage between the spark wires and throtel cable and got a mild shock,, hehe
Anyway driving the car for about a week now 58 miles round trip and im getting about 36mpg. Speed about 60mph only 3 stop signs and 2 traffic lights.
Im I would say better than average at changing things out but never tackled a timing chain tensioner. I only have the basic membership so I dont think I can add photos so would anyone like to post them for me? And possibly give me a shout out if they see something that look wrong. I bought the car mainly for fuel milage, did the math and the car should pay for itself in about year or less so to me its a good move. Have a 92 S10 blazer and 01 S10 blazer.


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## Krackerjack9 (Apr 18, 2010)

*Got the tensioner out*

Well I debated on messing with this, but then took the plunge
The valve cover is simple to take off
Next went ahead and removed the power steering oil reserve, sort of pain but no big deal
Next I took off the brace 3 bolts piece of cake
Then the engine mount.. sort of tough but just take your time.
Put a floor jack and a 2x4 about 10 inches long under the oil pan and just put some presure on it to hold the engine in place
Next was the cover a just a few bolts and and off it came
Then 2 bolts to the tensioner and a little wiggling and it was out.
Took about a hour or so
Got the new one ordered so should be here in 3 or so days
took photos of all the steeps and close ups of parts.
Anyone needs some shoot me a email. 
My tensioner looked like it might have gone a few more miles it was just starting to rub on the metal. Im glad I am going to get this replaced.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Looked @ pointer on timing cover but @ TDC crank pulley timing marks no where near the fwd side of the pulley....1996 sentra w 1.6 dohc l4.....I'm i looking in the wrong spot?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

finally replace my upper timing chain tensioner ( with a big help from my brother). And what a big difference. No more noise. I would have posted the pic of my worn ouit part, but I cant seem to find the button to do so. 
Just a note, I know I read it in this forum somewhere, someone replaced his spark plug seals, I believe are not replaceable. I cant figure out what I ordered. It came with the valve cover gasket. Anyone planning to replace the spark plug seals, dont. The seals are lodged between the valve cover and an inner cover for the baffle. There is no way to remove the inner cover unless you want to break it.
Well, this is what I have on my car. It could be that there are several kinds of valve cover. for the ga16de


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## madhatter256 (Feb 2, 2010)

Although the noise is about the same because my original tensioner was not down to the metal, it is giving more tension to my timing chain. From that I'm noticing my car is more responsive and 'tighter'.

If you know someone with air tools (air-ratchet), and more tools than you, then I suggest you use them. Those motor mount bolts are a pain to get off. You also need to remove the cooling tank reservoir and it's bracket that holds it to take that long motor mount bolt out completely.


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## rafman (Jun 19, 2003)

I just replaced mine at 275,000kms and the worn upper timing chain tensioner pic from azkicker0027 looks exactly like mine. It was also worn down to the metal. Luckily, not a lot of wear on the timing chain.

Also, here's a note to save you some time: I didn't remove the engine mount though as you can actually get to the bolt above the engine mount with patience and then slide the cover off with a little jiggling.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't forget to pull the pin off the new upper timing chain tensioner. =)


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## hnkmaster (Oct 10, 2010)

This is the way I did it on my car, I already posted the following in another post but here it is:


No valve head removal required!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In my experience all you have to remove is the following: damper pulley, water pump, motor mount, valve cover, valve left side cover, oil pan, oil pump filter, maniform and power steering pump. 

Then the oil pump will come out easily. be careful, there is a bolt holding the pump in place, it pretty hidden, its on the left top side of the oil pump, in my experience I broke the oil pump in that corner, lucky me it was only that part and no compression escape from there. I try to glue it back with epoxy but didnt stay in place so I remove the broken peace and put epoxy in the top left side of the cover, It didnt really need it but just to be safe I put some there.

In my opinion the chain could had lasted atleast 200 thousand miles easily, all that is required to change in these engine are the top and lower tensors!!!! and you problem should be solve.

AMEN!!!!!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Another post about the upper (and lower and everything else) timing chain tensioner replacement...
I bought a complete kit off eBay awhile back. The only other things I had to buy were the valve cover and oil pan gaskets.
Car is a '98 200SX-SE GA16DE w/ M/T, 167K miles. It's been rattling for about the last 10K miles. About time I started swapping parts.
Didn't need to remove the intake manifold like the Haynes manual said.
(I'm sure I've forgotten a dozen parts here and there in this description, so don't think of this as a 'be all end all' when replacing pieces/parts)
Removed:
-(sprayed down the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray)
-valve cover
-upper/right motor mount and brace (propped the motor up at the front of the A/C pump bracket)
-unbolted the power steering line bracket (front/right strut tower, makes getting to the p/s pump bolts a lot easier)
-(sprayed down the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray)
-removed the drivebelts (alternator bolts are a bit of pain but not impossible)
-loosened up the p/s pump brackets and removed a couple of bolts that went into the timing chain cover
-water pump out (no need to remove the thermostat housing but if you're already in there, why not replace the thermostat anyways?)
-did I mention I sprayed the exhaust bolts below the cat with penetrating spray? I did this off and on for a few days while still driving it thinking they'd be a pig to take off
-dropped the exhaust from the downpipe coming from the cat, just kinda pushed it out of the way, no need to totally disconnect it
-removed the front and rear engine-transmission braces
-pulled the oil pan (gotta remove those braces to get to the last two/four bolts holding it on
-crank pulley pulled off (no need for crazy pullers, just wiggled it, tapped it with a rubber mallet, came right off)
-upper timing chain cover off (make double/triple sure you get ALL of the bolts out of there!!!)
-removed the intake and exhaust gears (be careful or you'll end up breaking the ridge at the end of the cam like I did! Don't whack on it! Use steady pressure to break the bolt loose and use a 2nd wrench on the cam to hold it in place)






-some light prying with a long screwdriver, some wiggling back and forth, and the timing chain cover came right off.

I think I got lucky though. The bottom of the head gasket looks like it's in really good shape, nice and smooth, and I should be able to get a good seal at the top of the timing chain cover with a minimum of gasket goop spread out up there.

After 167K miles, the upper timing chain tensioner looked just like the one in the picture above, metal showing, bits and pieces missing, etc. The lower chain tensioners had minimal wear and looked like they could go another couple hundred thousand miles more. The chains were in great shape...but...
While I was looking in there, the idler sprocket had 3 teeth on it that were chipped which is why I tore into the whole thing rather than just replacing the upper tensioner.
I didn't need to disconnect the oil pump pickup tube from the timing chain cover.
I'm also debating on whether or not to replace the oil pump since I've got it out. The water pump is getting replaced even though it worked just fine before the teardown. Cheap insurance in my mind.
Don't forget to drain the radiator (pop the bleeder screw next to the thermostat after you get started!) and the oil.


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## Custom3 (Nov 30, 2010)

I did this job last week. I used this thread to guide me but most of it was wrong. I dont know how different our B14 are by years but this is how I did it on my 96 Sentra GXE.

No need to remove power steering reserve or relay box. Some people said you dont have to remove the motor mount? WTF? Although it is true you dont have to remove it but you do have to remove the 3 bolts. First I removed the one bolt on the motor mount that is next to the bolt that removes the plate to reveal the chain. Although I did have the plate lose and at one point it even looked like it was going to come out without removing the motor mount, it didnt. Only remove the 3 bolts holding the mount to the engine and wiggle the mount to the side. That will give you enough room to get the plate off. And again no need to remove the power steering reserve or relay box! Took me 2 hours to do and that was taking my time. I can probably do it again in a hour. 

PS... although probably not necessary I wet the new chain tensioner with engine oil. Added some inside the small hole just to get things lubed in there. Some people claimed that their new tensioner was getting stuck and it probably was cause it need to be lubed like I did. Didnt want to take a chance and just did. Takes 2 minutes to do.

I rate this job a 3/10. Easy to do..any questions feel free to ask me!


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## snobum (Apr 4, 2011)

So looking through this thread it appears that there are two methods to doing this. Some people take just the top off like the valve cover and top timinng chain cover and this last post with video seems to say they take all the pulleys, water pump, oil pan, etc off. Do you really need to take all that stuff off to do the top?


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## madhatter256 (Feb 2, 2010)

You only need to do that if you need to replace the whole timing chain and lower tensioners.

That's only if you have a serious problem already.

Replacing the upper timing chain helps in prolonging the life of the chain by having it run nice and tight and not loose and rub against metal. It doesn't require all of that, but I would check the water pump if you can just as a precautionary measure.


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## snobum (Apr 4, 2011)

madhatter256 said:


> You only need to do that if you need to replace the whole timing chain and lower tensioners.
> 
> That's only if you have a serious problem already.
> 
> Replacing the upper timing chain helps in prolonging the life of the chain by having it run nice and tight and not loose and rub against metal. It doesn't require all of that, but I would check the water pump if you can just as a precautionary measure.


Thanks! One last thing.....Do you need to torque the screws on the valve cover and top timing cover? I didn't see where anyone did.


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## skeeter123 (Apr 30, 2010)

I'm sure if you check the FSM there are torque specs, but I did mine about a month ago and just used my judgement on how much to torque....

The replacement valve cover gasket I got had circular metal inserts around each screw-hole, which are intended to keep you from squashing the gasket too much.... and I use a generous amount of liquid-gasket, especially in the corners.

Also, as a previous poster mentioned, my gasket came with 4 spark-plug hole seals, which go into the valve cover somehow; but its all old plastic and I was sure I'd break it if I tried to get the old ones out. Anyone know how to replace these without destroying an old/brittle valve cover?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

x2 on the above. Don't reef on the valve cover screws. They only need to go on tight enough not to leak. My screws/gasket didn't have the little metal inserts so I had to be careful-er.

Spark plug seals...mine didn't come out either and I wasn't about to try to break something to get them out. The new plug seals are going on the shelf for future use in case one starts leaking or something then I'll chance breaking the valve cover.


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## snobum (Apr 4, 2011)

Took the valve cover off and the tensioner is worn quite a bit. I will replace regardless. One last question....Do I need to take off the two sprockets/gears or can I remove and replace the tensioner without touching those two gears?


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## skeeter123 (Apr 30, 2010)

You can just remove/replace the upper tensioner without taking off any sprockets/gears or the timing chain. Before you put the new one on, pour some oil in it/on it, in the slot where it mates up against the engine (pull the pin out, work the tensioner in/out to exercise it, then put pin back in to mount it. Don't forget to take the pin out after you've mounted it to the engine!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

snobum said:


> Took the valve cover off and the tensioner is worn quite a bit. I will replace regardless. One last question....Do I need to take off the two sprockets/gears or can I remove and replace the tensioner without touching those two gears?


Once you get the side cover off the engine (not the timing chain cover, the upper cover that has about 10-12 little bolts), you'll see just how easy it really is. Just like the post above says, unbolt the old, bolt in the new...piece of cake.


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## dmccartyfan (Feb 13, 2011)

Great thread by all. I have a 96 XE. My question is, I've tried to locate the upper timing chain tensioner on parts websites, and I find that it is only listed for GXE models, not the XE. Does my XE really not have a tensioner or is this a part directory oversight?

Thanks!
Tom


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

if the engine is a GA16DE, then its the same. The timing part is the same across b13 and b14 ga16de's. Except for the intake cam sprocket (sigh)


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## dmccartyfan (Feb 13, 2011)

Jopet said:


> if the engine is a GA16DE, then its the same. The timing part is the same across b13 and b14 ga16de's. Except for the intake cam sprocket (sigh)


Thanks Jopet!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

About the only difference is, depending on when you engine was actually built, you may or may NOT have the upper chain guide on the very top, where the chain runs across the top of the intake and exhaust sprockets.
I'm not sure if it's a TSB, or a suggestion or what, but I've read in a number of places that the upper chain guide is removed as part of 'normal service'. Neither of my engines had it ('97 GA16DE in a Sentra, '98 GA16DE in a 200SX-SE). The timing chain tensioner kits came with new ones, I didn't put them in.


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## snobum (Apr 4, 2011)

Got it done about a week or so ago and it really quieted the engine down! Old tensioner was shot. Thanks to all that helped!


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## dmccartyfan (Feb 13, 2011)

thanks for all the replies. i'll be taking care of this asap!

Tom


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## dmccartyfan (Feb 13, 2011)

Just a tip: make sure you don't accidentally unclip your fuel injector when disconnecting the PCV hose!!! i must have, cuz the car ran like CRAP after i got it all back together  after staring at it for a bit and wondering what the he!! i could have touched to cause it to run like it was missing a cylinder, i started pulling spark plug wires to check for spark. they all had spark but the #1 cylinder's RPM didn't change when i pulled it. next i found the connector for the #1 fuel injector had pulled off slightly. i snapped it back down, and all is well. kinda crazy, but that kinda thing happens. the PCV hose runs right next to the connector so i must have bumped it. i'm surprised that just a bump would cause it to unclip so maybe it's been damaged by a previous wrench-monkey. anyways, the whole thing started when i wanted to inspect the tensioner just to see if i needed to replace it, so i removed just the valve cover. all that, and i couldn't tell if it was worn out or not, so i guess i'll just order one and do it right.

anyway, i hope ya'll got a laugh and a headshake at my expense


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

It happens.
You can tell if the tensioner is worn out by removing the valve cover, but you really gotta look carefully and use a good bright flashlight to shine it back in there, maybe use a long skinny screwdriver to kinda try to jimmy the chain out of the way a bit and see what's what.
If you've got a fair amount of miles on the engine, say over 150K, and the tensioner has never been changed (as far as you know anyways), ya, it's likely time to get it done.


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## dmccartyfan (Feb 13, 2011)

I couldn't get a good enough look at it... You're right about the flashlight though, I couldn't find one bright enough lol


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## EvilPotato (Sep 6, 2005)

mine started rattling about 5k miles ago, just got it done today as part of my 250k miles maintenance and surprisingly, my tensioner doesn't look as bad as some pics i've seen with less miles. took me 40-45 minutes using impact tools for loosening bolts. i'd say 3 out of 10 in difficulty. those pesky drum brakes took a lot longer and gave me more trouble


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

https://www.google.com/search?q=spi...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

What do ya got to say about this?


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## ervinjon (Feb 12, 2012)

Hi, I'm absolutely sorry if i'm bumping a really old thread, but this one has very helpful pics. I'm trying to replace my upper tensioner, and I'm stuck. I can't get the timing chain cover off. I've taken off all the screws around it, but there's this rod(?) connected to the timing guide, and the cover that I'm not really sure how to remove. 

Here's some pics. I'm referring to that rod in between the 2 sprockets? How do I take that off? Just twist it with a wrench?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Never seen that before. This is the Philippine version of the engine. 92 sentra. Are you sure it's a GA16DE?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I pretty sure it's the last bolt needed to take off before the timing chain cover will come off.


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## ervinjon (Feb 12, 2012)

Yep, it's a GA16DE. this might be one of those little differences. That threw me off too - never seen it before in the fews pics available here. Not even in the posted youtube vids. Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can do with it with a wrench.


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## ervinjon (Feb 12, 2012)

jdg said:


> I pretty sure it's the last bolt needed to take off before the timing chain cover will come off.


Update: Thanks to jdg! You're right, it's a 12mm bolt that holds up the timing chain cover. The cover was lifting off from the block as I was loosening that bolt. 

Got another problem though, the noise was louder after I've replaced the tensioner. I went back, and it seems the chain is now hitting the 2nd chain guide (not the upper guide between the sprockets). It's the chain guide-tension on the right (opposite the upper tensioner's side). That's labelled 13085+A. 










I'm not sure if I need to replace it (the replacement is also full metal, dont see any plastic part at all) or just have to adjust some screws just so it doesn't hit the guide that much?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I just did timing chain job on my GA16DE. I dont remember that part. I also replaced the upper tensioner about 2 years ago. Info on the chain, after the timing job or upper tensioner, I found that the chains should be tight no matter what position the sprockets are. 
When I replaced my upper tensioner, there was a bit of a slack on the upper chain at a certain position of the sprockets. I was not able to observe that the intermediate sprocket was worn out and was the reason for the slack. I also had a few teeth missing on my upper sprockets. 
Check all the sprockets to see if they're good. I was lucky when my chain slipped. If they are worn out, this is the best time to fix them, before they slip. Good news is that you dont have the VTC intake sprocket.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I get the feeling you didn't remove the "lock pin" after installing the new upper tensioner.
Either that or you don't have any oil pressure going to the tensioner itself, i.e. plugged up the oil feed hole with gasket goop or something.
I'm pretty sure the '95-later GA16DE didn't have that front tensioner block in it.
And if I remember right, that "upper chain tensioner" was "removed" by TSB on 95-98, and absent on the '99 models anyway.


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## ervinjon (Feb 12, 2012)

Yep, made sure I took off the pin. Hmm, is it possible i got a crappy tensioner replacement? I just checked and I can still push down the tensioner's plastic part using the wooden handle of a hammer. Am I supposed to be able to do that? Or is that a sign that it hasn't gotten completely filled with oil so I just have to run the car again until the noise dies down? When I removed the old tensioner, sure as hell I can't push it down that easily, but I can do it to the new one. I'll check the chains as well tomorrow. 

I run it for 15 mins during the weekend, and I just couldn't take the racket anymore. Was pretty nervous, expecting something to blow so I decided to just stop it.

I really didn't check if the oil feed hole was plugged up or not (me being a total noob) I just figured it was safest to touch the least number of parts there when I replaced the tensioner.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Bad tensioner replacement? Highly doubt it, but anything's possible...(I'd bet my second to last $ on NO)
The old tensioner probably still has some oil in it. The new tensioner is likely still dry.
Since you had the timing cover off, you also had the oil pump off.
Are you sure you got the oil pump flats lined up correctly? (likely you did otherwise T/C cover wouldn't have went on easily)
How about those 2 little o-rings that go between the T/C cover and the block? Did those get installed correctly?
Did the oil light go out when you fired the engine?
And when I swapped my upper tensioner out, it must've filled up right away 'cause there wasn't any noise after a couple seconds.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

*1995 200sx - GA16DE Upper Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement*

Hey all. I'm new to the forum (at least, as a member). I've been reading different threads for about two years. HUGE help on dealing with small issues with my 200.

Anyway. I read every thread I could find on the whole upper timing chain noise thing that seems to plague these engines (GA16DE). Finally decided that my noise was the upper tensioner so I pulled the trigger and replaced it yesterday. Everything is back in and now the noise is LOUDER! Sounds like crap. I looked at the chain and sprockets during replacement and they looked great (this engine only has 115,000 on it....I was hoping and assumed that this would be the case). And, yes, I pulled the pin on the tensioner.

I ran it for about 15 minutes last night and the noise stayed constant. I drove it (very gingerly!) around the neighborhood a few times and it seems to go away at higher rpms. Don't know if that's a clue.

My neighbor, a bit of a gearhead, says the chain likely needs to be replaced (yeah, I really don't see me replacing the chain as I'd have to dig into both the upper and lower.....not sure I have the tools or ability). He also said he's seen situations where synthetic oil can cause noise like this. I've been using synthetic for the last three changes. My first "fix" is going to be to change the oil back to a standard 10-30 oil and see if that changes anything. If not, I'm kind of stuck here. Seems like every thread I read had the noise go away after changing the tensioner. I haven't found even one that said the noise got louder!

Any advice?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

No oil getting in the tensioner. When I replaced my upper tensioner there was a slack on the top chain between the sprockets at certain position of the cams, which I learned should not even when the engine is not running. I found that out when I replace my sprockets and chains, the chains should be tight. 
If your oil is old, best to change it. Remove you valve cover and you should be able to poke the tensioner and you should be able to push it down a bit and hear a squishing sound. Another thing, check you sprockets. You might have tooth/teeth missing like mine. My intermediate sprocket was also worn out that cause the slack in my chain. 

read this thread, I believe I also have pics of my old sprockets:

http://www.nissanforums.com/b14-95-99-chassis/167288-engine-stalled-w-o-significant-signs.html


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

So, when you say "tight", I'm assuming you think the chains need to be replaced because of the 1/8" play I mentioned? Kind of my gut feeling too. Unfortunately, I don't think I'm capable. I pushed my limits getting the friggin' tensioner in!

Considering putting it on Craigslist as, with the super low mileage on this thing, it'd be a great project car for someone with more expertise than me. I figure I could sell it for about the price I was quoted for the chain job ($1,000).

Any other ideas out there?

It just doesn't seem right that my chain would be worn out at 115,000. Unless the previous owner didn't change oil or something (I always change oil at or near every 3,000).

I love this car guys. Not that it's a status symbol or anything. It's just reliable (used to be, anyway!), economical (bought for $800 in 2007, I've put about $650 in it in sensor replacements, wiper linkage, distributor, TPS, and now this tensioner but I figure that's well worth it.....that's an average of about $25 per month not counting general maintenance stuff), and no fear of getting broken into/stolen! I'd love to keep it but am hoping for ideas that might avoid the chain thing.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

Or, are you saying that the chain CAN have a bit of slack like I mentioned and that my issue is no oil is getting in the tensioner? I can read your post both ways.

Any insight would be appreciated.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I doubt its the chains. Because with mine, even with the mess that the sprockets did, the chains were in great condition. 

The least is that the oil is not getting in the tensioner. There is a tread that had someone, not getting any oil pressure in his tensioner. push on it, it should push back.

Worst, well, timing chain assembly. Check the sprockets to see any worn out tooth or teeth. It may be just part of the assembly but if it is, the only way to replace anything to the lower timing is to remove the lower front cover. And the thread I included above will give you good help.

This is the pics of my worn sprockets:

Pictures by superpanda5 - Photobucket


BTW, a work lower tensioner may create the same rattle noise. Pretty rare though.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Zunilab said:


> Or, are you saying that the chain CAN have a bit of slack like I mentioned and that my issue is no oil is getting in the tensioner? I can read your post both ways.
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated.


I had a slack on my chains when I first replaced the tensioner. Did not completely silenced the rattle. 

Then after the timing chain assembly job, everything new, there was no slack at all and the engine was not started yet. I was turning the engine by hand a few times to check my timing. 

I'm sure there will be someone objecting that pressure is needed to get tension. I can understand how that works. But with my repair, the chain was tight with out starting the engine. Actually there was no oil in it either. My car runs great ever since, feels 100,000 miles younger 

more simple thought - defective tensioner


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I surely wouldn't try the 10W-30 oil either. Tolerances are tight. 30 weight oil won't flow well cold.
Lower chain @ 100K miles, not likely.
Quieter at higher revs? Might be centrifugal force throwing the chain outwards so it basically tightens itself up and doesn't have time to slap around.All other things being equal, I'm with Jopet on the 'defective tensioner' thought.
The only way you're gonna find out is to get back in there and recheck stuff.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

Thanks! As much as I don't relish doing that again.....seems like the right thing to do. At least check the tensioner. Hope I still have the receipt just in case.

Another thought. I didn't see this in any post or anything (or in the hayes directions) but, did you lube the tensioner prior to installation? I didn't. Just took out the old one, slapped in the new one, pulled the pin, and closed everything up.

Probably take a few days to get time to do it. I'll post back once I check it.

Now. Anybody have any ideas as to why my chain might be bad at a whopping 115,000 miles when I'm reading that everybody else seems to go 150,000 to 180,000 before they get the "joy" of dealing with this? Can it be caused by low and/or bad oil? That's what my neighbor said would do this with so little mileage. We (the neighbor and I) had this car just hummin' about a year ago. Running so quiet and smooth. Getting upper 30's for mileage. My daughter borrowed it for a few months, ran the oil down to nearly no registration on the dipstick (for that matter, the oil hadn't been changed the whole time she had it......over 9,000 miles in three months!!!). The car was making the early chain rattle noises by the time it came back to me...... I assumed it was the valves but, as it got louder, became apparent it was the chain.

I'm prayin' it's the tensioner......

Thanks again guys.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

Last noob post (I hope). I really do appreciate the insight.

Is it possible to over tighten the upper chain tensioner? I didn't see any spec's in the manual. I tightened it pretty decent as I realize it's under pressure. Maybe that could be the problem (i.e. too tight, oil can't get into the piston?). Ever heard of that?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I lubed the tensioner on the seating area and for measure I dump oil on top of it before installing the valve cover. 
I'm not sure about over tightening. I guess you'll strip the bolts before you over tighten it.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Over tighten? Not likely. If you did, you'd be looking for more new parts 
When I put mine in, I soaked it in oil, and "pumped it up" a few times, kinda hoping it would suck some oil into the passages. Whether it helped or not? I dunno. Made me feel a tad better at any rate.
Chain tensioner bad at 115K?
Bad oil, not changing the oil, is about the only thing I can think of. That's not to say that a tensioner _couldn't_ go bad at 115K. It's just that it seems like the average is in the 150K+ range and to get an average, you gotta have lows and highs. You're the lucky one that just happened to be at the low end of the range.


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## ervinjon (Feb 12, 2012)

Hi, hope this helps. I've got a similar scenario when I just replaced the upper tensioner (check post#70 here). At first I thought I had a funky upper tensioner replacement, or it's not getting any oil at all. Found out my chains were hitting the 2 upper guides. Removed the upper guides and the noise was still there intermittently. Decided to have the whole timing assembly opened. There I found out that my lower tensioner guide was worn out (worse than my upper tensioner). The upper tensioner and the lower tensioner guide (curved part) has plastic parts that were worn out. To save myself the time and labor cost, had the lower guide, the lower tensioner, the chains, cam sprockets, idler gear, and crankshaft sprocket replaced at that time. Mind you the mechanic told me aside from the lower guide, lower tensioner, and upper tensioner - the rest were still ok to reuse. After that, engine was running smoothly and quietly, and I still used the same brand of 20W50 engine oil.

sorry for the long assed reply, but my guess is it's the lower guide + lower tensioner that you need to check out too.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

*Mizumo Auto GA16DE Timing Chain Assembly*

So. To add to my post from a few weeks back. I've figured out (after getting back into the upper chain) that the tensioner seems fine. My next step is to replace the entire timing chain assembly. Called Nissan. They want over $500 for the kit. As much as I'd like the genuine "Nissan" part thing, I have to admit, I bought my 1995 200sx for $800 and spending $500 on this just isn't going to happen.

I get on line and find all kinds of deals on chain sets. The one that has caught my eye is a Mizumo Auto full chain kit that includes a new water and oil pump. Has all the gaskets, etc. Listed for $183.38 (w/ free shipping). Anyone used this set? Heard about it. The parts numbers translate over to Cloyes and Napa (the same set at Napa is over $300). I'm thinking I should get it.

Also thinking of replacing the coolant hoses as long as I'm in there (draining it). Just replaced the belts about 10,000 ago so they should be fine. Anything else I should consider replacing while I've got this thing torn up?

Any thoughts?


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Hmmm... tried to check the part you are ordering. I can't seem to find one on the internet for a ga16de. it lists 2.0 (SR20DE). Anyway, if you're sure its for the 1600 and you're ok with the price do for it. I spent less than $200 for all my parts and fluids. Well, my intake sprocket came from the junk yard 

Good idea to replace the thermostat, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket (if it has not been replaced recently), everything else should be included in the kit.

Before jumping into the project, check all parts, ESPECIALLY: sprockets and chains - count the teeth and links 10x  Jdg had a bad experience with his car


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

91-99 Nissan Sentra 200SX NX1600 1.6 GA16DE DOHC Water Oil Pump Timing Chain Kit | eBay

Plug the above link in (if you're interested). Honestly, the only thing that scares me about this set is how cheap it is. I called the seller. They say they get it directly from the manufacturer (in Taiwan). Well, I'd love Japanese parts but I couldn't hack the $600 or so it would cost. I don't drive much anyway.....

Good advice on the thermostat and oil pan gasket (I planned on doing the gasket as it's the only place I'm leaking oil....finally get to plug it up).


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I guess those parts are ok. I didn't replace my oil pump. Water pump and thermostat along with the timing kit. the only thing I see is that the intake cam sprocket you are looking to buy is not the right one. Unless you 1995 sentra is not cvt. 
You might be able to use the old part. Just make sure its in good shape. Mine had a few teeth missing. Had to recondition a junkyard part since this sprocket is about $450


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jopet said:


> Before jumping into the project, check all parts, ESPECIALLY: sprockets and chains - count the teeth and links 10x  Jdg had a bad experience with his car


That's an understatement! 

The timing kit linked above, I wouldn't have a problem with buying that one if I had to do another GA16DE.
The only thing I'll say about it is that the top upper chain guide (the one on the very top of the chain and sits horizontally on the engine, not the upper chain tensioner that sits at an angle at the back of the chain) was deleted on the late-98/99 engines due to the extra noise it makes after the upper chain tensioner gets a little bit of wear on it.
My early '98 had the top upper chain guide installed from the factory and I removed it when I had my mess awhile back. As far as I can tell, the 95-99 engines are identical at the timing chain end except for that top upper guide being deleted on the later models.
I don't see any problem with either leaving that upper chain guide in or taking it out, just that from what I've read, like I said, after getting a bit of wear on the tensioner, that upper chain will start to make noise again sooner as the upper chain tensioner wears in and the chain kinda starts 'slapping' that upper chain guide a bit.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

*Update....Midway through my chain replacement!*

Don't know if anyone cares to know but just wanted to repost to those of you who helped me through the upper chain tensioner replacement.

Finally almost done with the teardown to do both chains. Have the oil pan off, most of the "garbage" off the front of the engine, likely remove the power steering pump and then the oil pump (cover) on Friday or Saturday. Do the rebuild on Sunday/Monday.

As a nice side note, I noticed my passenger side drive axle was shot so I get to replace that too! ($49 rebuild one from Cut Rate). I got the seal as well as it was only $11.

Question. The Hayes manual says that there's two copper sealing rings on the power steering pump that need to be replaced after you remove the pump. Anyone familiar with those? The parts store wasn't. I suppose I'll see them when I take it off.....

***I noticed that a bunch of guys were able to replace the upper guide and eliminate their "noise" (I wasn't.....mine made more noise). FYI. When I spoke with a Nissan mechanic a few weeks back he stated that if the top one is wasted it's about 90% sure that the lower ones are wasted too. Just a thought.***

I'll let you know how the rebuild goes.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Zunilab said:


> FYI. When I spoke with a Nissan mechanic a few weeks back he stated that if the top one is wasted it's about 90% sure that the lower ones are wasted too. Just a thought.***
> 
> I'll let you know how the rebuild goes.


nope, not true. at least for me. My sprockets were very worn down, the top and intermediate one that was connected to the top. Everything at the bottom was ok. I replaced them too because the parts are available in the kit and there was no extra effort at that point. The plastic guides were about half worn, the lower tensioner was ok.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

btw, I didn't need to remove the power steering pump. just a bracket that was bolted to the front cover


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

x2 on the above.
Haven't heard or seen a lot of people that have had to mess with the lower tensioner, much less remove the P/S pump, just loosen is up to get the belts off, and as said, get the bracket out of the way.


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

*Done Changing Chains on my 1995 Nissan 200sx (GA16DE)!!!!*

Thanks for all the encouragement, help, direction to find that Nissan Technical Bulletin, and "life experience" stories I got off this website. It helped me work up the guts to tackle this job (with help from my neighbor). It only took me 3 months and seven days to amass the parts I needed (complete chain kit....see previous post, new water pump, new thermostat, gasket sets for everything, new coolant, an engine hoist [borrowed!], an air compressor and air tools (borrowed), and a few six packs).

Frankly, the job is a royal pain in the butt. Really. I don't wish it on anyone. If you follow the technical bulletin and Hayes (I did) they have you remove the power steering pump bracket, the alternator and a/c compressor (and bracket), the power steering resovoir, and the middle engine support (the long one under the oil pan). You really don't need to remove all those (though it does make installation much easier!). Live and learn. I'd suggest just looking at all the stuff, study where the front cover is, and make your best call on what you need to remove.

An important point (on my job anyway). The VCT WAS NOT included in the parts set I bought. I thought the sprocket that came with the set could be retrofit onto it (it can't). I called around for prices and, when I found out how much the VCT was (jesus, it's like $400!!!), I just reinstalled the old one. Everything else (sprockets, chains, guides, etc.) is new in that baby. I was a little nervous when I was going to start it yesterday (old VCT and all) but the engine sounds and runs show room new as near as I can tell (a little over 30 miles on it since the job)! I even got rid of a tad bit of hesitation the car had on starting from a stop (still haven't tracked down the little "shudder" I have on initial startup though). Any posts on that problem out there? Fuel pump, maybe?

For the record, my lower chain, guide, and sprocket looked great as a previous poster assumed they would. I thought they'd be shot. I could have just left the lower portion but, I figured I got all the way down there so why not replace? Only the top half showed any wear (chain and tensioner, anyway). One of the sprockets (the "idler" sprocket) showed a bit of wear but the other two (VCT and exhaust sprockets) looked great. The old chain was a bit more loose than the new one.

All in all. Worth the money (a bit over $200) and time to do it myself rather than pay the shop over $1,000.

Side note. This is the first time I've taken off an oil drain pan. Why in the hell are they built to hold that much oil even after they're emptied!?! Must have been half a quart left in the dang thing! Pretty black oil too. Hate to think that stays in the engine even though I change oil every 3,000..... Oh, there were also some plastic chunks from my upper tensioner too! Felt good to see those go away!

Thanks again all!


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## reeser81 (Jan 12, 2014)

Great thread with pics!!!
Did you have to replace entire timing chain set-up or did you just go with replacing the tensioner?
How many miles did it have before the fix and have you had any problems with it since?
Current miles?
Thanks for your help, man!!!


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## Zunilab (Apr 11, 2012)

*Timing Chain*

I had to replace the entire timing chain setup.......

My daughter ran the poor little thing dry of oil and all but fried the chains (no valve damage though!). Been running great since (now has about 145,000 miles on it). It had 115,000 miles on it when I had to do it. Shouldn't need it until about 200,000 if you keep the oil changed.

Well, after seeing the lower part of the set I probably didn't NEED to replace it for a while but I figured we dug all the way down there so I better replace it. It's a lot of work.

I hope to never have to do it again!


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## andrew12 (Jan 9, 2014)

Really helps, thanks for sharing it. And looking forward for more tips...


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## joslinw (Feb 9, 2015)

Great post. Changed the upper timing chain tensioner in about an hour. It was completely worn down to the metal. Now she runs very quiet and smooth.
Thanks to you all

Guest


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## KrautBurner (Mar 2, 2015)

maroonsentra said:


> Can we get the pictures back?
> 
> Jason





dwayne505 said:


> You can see how much wear the plastic has suffered. Wow what a big difference with the new tensioner installed. The car is much smoother and quieter now!





azkicker0027 said:


> can someone bring the pictures back? i have 140k on my GA16 and i'm noticing this diesel-like rattle at idle and this might be the chain, tensioner, and/or guides.
> and to make matters worse, i just replaced the distributor about a week ago due to a crank-no-start condition. No spark on that as well.
> 
> Thanks.




I too would like to see the pics
this may be coming soon on my 200SX SE:crying:


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## Dave1985 (Mar 24, 2017)

if you write up with the pic,it will be better one.


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## nissancaner (Oct 12, 2018)

more tech tips pleease!..I'm a real dork when it comes to cars and i've been pulling my hair to know other things just to make my Baby in top condition. I've been there, done that but i always ends up fixing a new problem everytime i go under the hood!

thanks a lot!!


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## stylemotorbikes (Aug 29, 2019)

Thank your sharing so much.


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## Cleverlever (Jan 30, 2020)

I don't see any pictures


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## Max Verstappen (Mar 12, 2020)

I just completed replacing the upper tensioner on a 1995 Sentra GLE (1.6). I figured I would post instructions and pics to help people in the future. I have to say thanks to 'Kyu-ju-kue', 'tieggonzalez', and 'off_da_meter' for helping me get started and prviding advice on this one. My car has 233K on it and is still running strong, however it sounded like a tank. I though the entire timing chain would need to be replaced, but through the advice of people on this forum, I checked the upper timing chain tensioner. IT WAS TOTALLY SHOT. Cost of the tensioner was $55 from Advance, and total time spent was about 2 hrs. Hopefully I can leave the pics for these instructions on my server, however if someone wants to make them permanent here or add to them, feel free.


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## johnson233 (Mar 12, 2020)

Wonderful post! Can I follow these steps to replace my perodua's ?


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## Max Verstappen (Mar 12, 2020)

Thank your sharing so much.


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