# My truck won't start, any advice?



## Ovaries_of_Steel (Sep 14, 2009)

I really hope this is the right area to post this thread. I own a 1993 Nissan hard body pick up. She's a 5 speed and I've had her for about 4 years now. I've never had any problems with her before this: One day, I let my boy friend take my truck to work because his toyota was giving him problems and over heating. Well, when he came home, he told me that the truck wouldn't turn on and that he and a friend had to push start it. 

I tried starting it myself and this is what happened: I got this low humming sound, it made no effort to rev and roll over. The lights/radio and everything battery powered works. I think it's my starter, since it seems like my battery and alternator are fine. (I tried jumping it- nothing happened.) But I can push start it...

I'm very concerned, I love my truck like I would my own child. </3 Can anyone help me?


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## stenbots (Mar 21, 2008)

hi my brother had the same problem in july. its the starter. a new one was 220 plus labour. thank goodness for standard trans, eh? try that with an automatic


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## Ovaries_of_Steel (Sep 14, 2009)

Yikes. 220? Woo...Well, shucks, I have someone that can install it for me. I could probably pull a used one out of a truck in the junkyard. Or is that a bad idea?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

depending on the year.. there is a blue (double plug) relay on the right side (behind the batt.) that may be the culprit.. or you can pull the starter and have it checked out before you spend $$ on a new one

sorry I missed the year... yeah check the relay first! (about $20) I carry a spare, it saved my a$$ from being stranded


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## snoopdogie187 (Feb 12, 2007)

I posted where I think the location of the starter might be on your orginal post, but I will post it here also

I think it will be under your oil filter, on the passanger side. I think the engines were simular enough that this would be in the same to close spot. I checked on the 4X4 92 pathfinder we have, and it looks like a pain to get to. I do hope its a little different for you, but just check there. 

always get the starter checked before spending the money on a new one.
and wow 220 is a lot. but you said with labor, and I always do something like this myself. 

last I checked a starter was probably around $100 - 150 

Yep, I just checked napa autoparts (an autopart place in this area, usually with slightly higher prices/better rep) and they have starters for $110 - 150 or so. Just bring the old starter with you if you are getting a new one, there might be a core charge (and I'm seeing 40 - 60 for just the core)

As far as a used one, if money is tight, you can give that a try, assming you do save a lot of money off of a new one, but you will never know how long it will last you, and if its ready to go. Basically if you are willing to take the gamble, go for it. Starters do usually last awhile, but check the visual condition of it.

And hopefully it is just the relay in the end.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

inhibitor switch which is activated by the clutch pedal...bypass it to eliminate it as the culprit!


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## ivis05 (Sep 22, 2009)

i have same problem two months ago is the starter and then the battery take the truck to autozone and ask them to check the battery before anything else


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## Derrelly (Nov 29, 2008)

*Check Starter*

I have an 86.5 and 88 4x4 i have had the same problem with both trucks first thing you should do is have somebody try to start your truck while you put your ear by the starter witch is located under oil filter on passanger side you might have to take the rubber wheel well cover out, it just snaps out. If you hear the starter solenoid clicking you need a new starter. I had my starters checked at schucks on both trucks and they claimed they were good and always turned over, i payed $90.00 for a new one and now it starts like a champ like i stated above I had both starters checked and they were both found to be working properly by schucks so i would just buy a new one and put it in take the old one in and get a $30.00 core charge back actual cost was about $60.00 I would not suggest buying second hand because you will probably be replacing it againe soon. If your Starter does not click it is probably a ground wire, corrosion, fusable link, blue double relay by battery on passanger inside fender wall this can be jumped with 2 wires to check or the switch on your clutch peddal.
let me know if this helps.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

blue double relay by battery on passanger inside fender wall this can be jumped with 2 wires to check or the switch on your clutch peddal.
let me know if this helps.
This is your starter relay and inhibitor switch


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

we hardly get any feed back ..

once they fix the truck they forget all about us..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey Zanegrey, I need your help again buddy (or anyone else who is willing ta help,and I'll be sure ta tell y’all about the results if I end up fixing the problem! haha)!! My starter in my '91 D21 just recently went out too, but like snoopdogie187, replacing the starter looks like a real P.I.T.A, if I'm looking at the right part that is. I'm like 99% sure it's the solenoid that's gone bad, but I'd like to check if that relay is to blame first before I do anything more. How can I do this, and worst case scenario, what's the easiest way to remove the whole starter assembly?? Thanks.


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## inkedgiff (Mar 28, 2010)

I've got the same thing going on with mine, and it works when I jump it. I saw the starter is listed at autozone for 69 for the 5sp. guess it looks like I'll need to find some time to get underneath the truck. how do I test the realy behind the battery to bipass the clutch switch?


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

It doesn't always work, but often if the relay is bad and you tap on it with screwdriver handle while someone else is trying to start the vehicle it will work. If it does you know it's a bad relay.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well...if it is the starter...replacing it is very doable (at least it is in the 2WD). 

Not too far from my place is a starter / alternator shop that rebuilds starters for cheaper than the reconditioned ones at auto supply shops. They also offer a two year warranty. I'd do that before I'd do the boneyard move. In fact, I'm havin' a very hard time finding any parts at boneyards for my '97 4WD Hardbody. Most have long since gone to that big crusher in the sky.

The ignition switch went in my old '93 2WD Hardbody...initially thought it was the battery.

And hey Zane...come here and give us a hug.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Inkedgiff, if your truck starts when you jump it, then I don't think the issue is the starter, I'd say it's the battery/relay. Even when I tried jumping my truck, I'd only get a click sound. The dash lights would slightly dim, and the voltmeter said I was at 12.6,so that's how I eliminated that possibility.I just have to narrow the other two choices down to the culprit. 

NissanPartsDept. I'll have ta try that. lol It's too easy ta not even give it a shot, but do you know of any other methods?

Grug. Intact HB's are hard ta find around here too. My plans were ta take it to a starter/alternator shop that rebuilds 'em, but I gotta get it out first! haha
My babies 2wd, and I know it's doable, I just don't know how I should approach it. I have the torsion bar right there, plus I can't even see the second bolt or where the terminals are. I just need some direction to make this chore a lil' easier.


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

You should feel the relay click when depressing the clutch and turning the key to start. At that time the relay sends power to the small wire going to the starter solenoid (I don't recall the color on this year but I believe its either black and yellow of white and red). If you have power to this wire under these conditions and the starter does not turn it is the starter or battery, not the relay.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Well I did as you said this morning and heard the relay click when I went ta start her, so I guess that's not the issue. Now what do I do?? I know the starter will have ta come out either way,but I'm still lost on how ta do this. Any help would be much appreciated...


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## inkedgiff (Mar 28, 2010)

I got mine to work, the alt was bad, so it's back in the land of the living. Thanks for the help.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the starter is not all that hard to do..

in the whole starter system is the bat ,relay ,clutch inhibitor switch and the key switch..

and ofcoarse the wire and cables that interlink them..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

**

This past weekend, I assumed all along that the issue was the solenoid, so I rolled up my sleeves and got down and dirty to take it out. Then once the whole starter was out, I went ahead and replaced both the starter and solenoid with a new unit; however, even after all that work, my truck still wont start!! I know I can scratch off the battery, solenoid, and starter as the culprit now, but what about all this other stuff you talk about Zanegrey (clutch inhibitor switch and the key switch)? How do I scratch those off the list? Thanks.


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## RobXEV6 (Nov 3, 2009)

The clutch inhibitor switch is at the bottom of the clutch pedal's travel. If you have a test lead with alligator clips, you can temporarily bypass it for testing. Or bypass it completely like in this pic:










The little pink tube is one of those double-crimp connectors. The switch above it with the plunger is the clutch inhibit switch.

If you search on ignition switch, you can find my post on how to clean and test the switch. You might be able to loosen it (under the steering shroud, on the left) and rotate it slightly one way or the other and get it working until you have more time to clean it. I discovered this when messing with mine. Good luck.

-Rob


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks for the explanation Rob. I went ahead and cleaned all that first, tried ta turn her over, and still nothing. Long story short I found the problem to be that stupid relay. I was looking at the relays under the hood(where I was hearing the clicking); however, the faulty relay was actually inside the truck right above the fuse box. Sure enough, I took that thing out and the truck started right up. I have ta buy a new one cuz now my gauge cluster isn't working anymore,but at least she's running again. Thanks for the help guys...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

nice job......and thanks for the update..


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

91HB... I am curious, which relay did you pull to make it start?

I'm just trying to understand why removing a relay would effect it.

In 30 years with Nissan I have never seen this.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks Zanegrey. Honestly NissanPartsDept, the actual purpose of that relay is still a mystery to me. Simply put, when the relay was in, the truck wouldn't start; however, as soon as I took the relay out, she'd fire right up. Why that relay effected my gauge cluster is unknown as well. On my truck, if you were to look above the interior fuse box, you'll see two blue relays. The one of the far right is the one I pulled. The diagnostic book that I use say's its the ignition relay (uses primarily for security reasons), which makes sense to me, but when I went ta Autozone to get the new one, the replacement picture looked nothing like the original. After some searching, we finally found a match, but it was labeled under the fuel injector/blower relay. I guess they use the same relay (even though one has nothing to do with the other). It's the same exact relay I pulled as the originally except its made in China. Once I got home, I plugged the new relay in, and everything works like normal. The truck fired right up like before, and the gauge cluster is working again. So if you can make sense of any of this, then please explain, but really I'm just happy I got my baby going again...


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well 91HB, I'm glad you got your ride started. I hate dealing with electrical problems...especially in vehicles. Always seems to be a ghost in the machine scenario.

But look on the bright side, you won't have any problems with your starter for the next little while. And the next time a newbie asks a question regarding starting issues, you'll be able to pass along your experience.

Live long and prosper!


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Haha Thanks Grug. Yeah she's good for another 200,000 miles now right?! lol It was a $81 lesson that I hadda learn the hard way, but I have no problem passing on my newly aquired knowledge of how to change the starter to anyone that needs it...lol.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey man, I don't think you learned an $81.00 lesson 'the hard way' at all. You got a new starter, the knowledge on how to change it out for next time, a whole lot of new electrical knowledge regarding your truck and you didn't have to pay some flunkie to do work on your truck 'cause you did it yourself.

I think at the end of the day you came out way ahead.

Cheers!


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

That's true when you put it that way Grug, especially when most places around my area easily charge $90+ an hour just for tha labor...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

u mean i could get paid for fixing guys trucks??


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

haha Yes sir, and a matter of fact, my celebrating didn't last too long, so I may need that free mechanic advice that you give again... . Ya see, with my truck being so old, when you replace anything with a new part, the truck doesn't know how ta react, so it breaks something else. Well, unfortunately, it happened this time too. So I gotta another question for you guys!! lol My babies idling real rough now. There was always some fluctuation with her idle, but now she's going too low and almost stalling herself. So this morning I went ta see a friend of mine that works at AAMCO, and on the DL, he tried ta solve the problem for me, but he couldn't really pinpoint the issue without "further diagnosis". Luckily I didn't have ta pay that $90 an hour labor fee, but what he said is that the computer is messing with the idle. He said he could get the idle back to normal using the idler screw, but then the computer would kick in and knock it back down. John, my buddy, says ta try swapping out the fuel filter first, and then checking the fuel pressure. He say's if that isn't the problem, then perhaps its time for a new computer. What are you're guys takes on this new problem?? Thanks in advance...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if you did n e thing but read the codes ...shame on you...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Yeah I thought of that. I was afraid that since my check engine light doesn't work, that they wouldn't read it for me, but I'll stop by Autozone and see if they can for me once I leave work cuz it won't hurt ta ask. There's prolly gonna be like 8-9 pages of codes that'll pop up, but I'll let you know what the results are when I get home...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

u do not need n e body to read the codes.. do it urself..

read the sticky and read the codes...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So during my lunch break, I went outside ta see what you were talking about Zane. I found the ECU, but I have no idea how to gain access to the unit without taking the whole bench seat out. I've tried moving the seat all the way up, and I've tried moving the seat all the way back. The rest of Pathy's instructions are easy to follow. Do you know of an easy way of doing this? Thanks.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

un bolt the passenger side or the bench seat ..
i use a claw hammer to prop up that side of the bench seat..


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

then wit the key in the on position but the engine not running flip the ecm switch on .

the ecm will blink 1 time then 2 times then 3 times then four times and lastly 5 times and then will repeat..

as soon as it blinks three times turn the ecm switch off and record the codes.

this is mode three and is for stored trouble codes..

then look up codes...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So I tried it as soon as I got home. If I'm reading it correctly, I got 4 Red blinks and 1 Green blink. According ta 88Pathy's thread, my issue is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor???? Does this sound possible??


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

that is the sensor mounted on the bottom of the intake cover..

check it out..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So I checked it out, and honestly it's looking a lil' dirty, but do you think that the Intake Air Temperature Sensor can affect the idle like that?! What if I take a brake cleaner soaked Q-tip and just clean it up some?? I'll try it tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for your patience Zane, I don't mean ta ask so many questions...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

people swear that seafoam is a good injector cleanor..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> people swear that seafoam is a good injector cleanor..


Sorry about the delay, I've had a busy week.I think Sewafoam works good too. I've been using it before every oil change ever since my truck went over 200,000 miles...

Here's an update on my HB. Again, I finally fixed the starter issue, so that's cool. As far as the idle issues go, upon driving to the parts store, I blew a tire. :/ I got the truck home and hadda ride my bicycle to the store instead, but I was able ta get the new sensor installed, but I have no idea if it fixed the problem or not. I went through the gears while the truck was on jack stands and the idle sounded fine. I just hope it'll stay like that when I put the tires back on her. I'll let you know the outcome when I'm finished.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

how far was the store..?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Not too far. It's about a 6 mile round trip...it was just another headache that I didn't need at the time.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey! Long time no talk to everyone! So guess what?! I got some new tires for my truck the other day, went ta go start her up ta take her on a trip and nothing happened. :wtf: Sure enough, she still wont start with that relay in. All I get is that stupid click sound. If I take the relay out she starts. What am I missing here?? I went ahead and checked the ECU code again Zane and it was flashing the same code as earlier: 41 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor). Any ideas?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So I think my progress is starting ta go backwards. Now the trucks not starting at all. It doesn't even matter if the relay's in or not anymore, I'm still only getting that clicking sound! Please, is there any advice you can give me?? This riding my bicycle everywhere is really starting to get annoying...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Ight ya'll. So after checking/removing the inline fuses,all the relays, the starter motor, the starter solenoid, the battery, both battery terminals, all the grounds, and the ignition switch, I finally found the real problem. Turns out the power wire was corroded at the terminals. So I replaced the whole wire and she starts just fine now...ain't that something? What an experience.


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## RobXEV6 (Nov 3, 2009)

Was it the subharness that goes from the battery to the starter?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

If you mean the 4 gauge lookin' wire that connects to the positive side of the cable and then disappears into the engine bay, then yes, it was that one.


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## jogz04 (Mar 17, 2010)

pull a wire and ground it with screwdriver while some one turns key....any spark? if none look at dist cap and rotor may have original.... 2nd thing to look at is coil and ignighter...


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## RobXEV6 (Nov 3, 2009)

91HB said:


> If you mean the 4 gauge lookin' wire that connects to the positive side of the cable and then disappears into the engine bay, then yes, it was that one.


Yeah, that's it. I ended up replacing that too, but because the starter end had lost its casing. Something like $125 or $150 at the dealer.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

jogz04 said:


> pull a wire and ground it with screwdriver while some one turns key....any spark? if none look at dist cap and rotor may have original.... 2nd thing to look at is coil and ignighter...


Oh I know for a fact now that the problem was that wire. Once I hooked the battery back up, I took a multimeter down ta where the power wire connected ta the starter, and it was like at a 6-7 volt read out. Now, since I replaced the wire,it's back up in the 12's...



RobXEV6 said:


> Yeah, that's it. I ended up replacing that too, but because the starter end had lost its casing. Something like $125 or $150 at the dealer.


Whoa! You paid $150 for that wire?? It was only $12 for me at Discount Auto Parts (a local parts store in my area). It prolly would of been even cheaper if I went ta Low's or Home Depot and just bought some wire there. That's why I cant stand buying some parts from dealerships. Sometimes you luck out with a good deal, but 9/10 times, you're gonna get screwed. :/


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Go to the Dual relay on the passenger side and bypass it with a jumper wire, it's the starter relay/inhibitor switch, I said this back on page 1.......


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## autocarplaza (May 13, 2010)

this problem come ```` I ended up replacing that


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i am so confused....


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