# Big 3 upgrade



## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

has anyone did a big 3 upgrade (upgrading factory battery to ground,engine to ground and alt to battery) on a B14 before? i got a good idea on how to do it but i woul like detailed instuctions and i still don't understand what size fuse you should use on the alt to bat wire (max output of alt which would be like 80amp or max ampacity of wire which for 1/0 whould be like 250-300 i think)


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

well...its really simple. Just lay out wiring following the stock stuff (except alt to batt) and cut it. Get some ring terminals and replace it. For the alt to batt. Just attach a second wire to the alt's + terminal and run that straight to the batt's + terminal. I would use a fuse about 150 amps if your running 1/0 because there is no way your alternator is going to be trying to shove 250 amps out.

I noticed a huge difference with just the alt to batt wire. The alternator used to "whistle" (kind of like a supercharger sound), but it went away with the addition of that wire.


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

Punkrocka436 said:


> well...its really simple. Just lay out wiring following the stock stuff (except alt to batt) and cut it. Get some ring terminals and replace it. For the alt to batt. Just attach a second wire to the alt's + terminal and run that straight to the batt's + terminal. I would use a fuse about 150 amps if your running 1/0 because there is no way your alternator is going to be trying to shove 250 amps out.
> 
> I noticed a huge difference with just the alt to batt wire. The alternator used to "whistle" (kind of like a supercharger sound), but it went away with the addition of that wire.



dont replace the factory wiring whatever you do. you can add to it, definately (since current takes the path of least resistance)...but dont replace them. you never know if something might fuck up in your engine, and for some strange reason you have to take it to the dealer. if they start seeing added stuff under the hood, even extra wires to make the electrical system more efficient, then they'll tell you that you that the damage is your fault, and void your warranty.


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

i know that its better to add to than replace factory wiring but my car is like 9 years old so the warranty has long expired anyway(so i can do whatever i want with it muhhhaha!!) i am correct in saying that the fuse should be closest to the bat than the alt? and would 4 gauge be effective with a 1000 watt class d amp (60 amp fuse on it) and with a future 100x2 amp (30 amp i think) since i can get it for .19 cents a foot(someone at the hardware store mislabled the 4 gauge and the guy sold it to me for that price) and it'll be cheaper to buy the inline fuse holder for it than 1/0. what size fuse should i use for the 4 gauge then?


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

*i am correct in saying that the fuse should be closest to the bat than the alt?*
yes

*and would 4 gauge be effective with a 1000 watt class d amp (60 amp fuse on it) and with a future 100x2 amp (30 amp i think)*
yes

*what size fuse should i use for the 4 gauge then?*
80-100amp would be fine, and stay away from AGU fuses. I know they're cheap, but they're cheap because they are very rarely of good quality. Get a good maxi or anl fuse holder instead, but keep in mind anl is HUGE


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