# Girl problems



## Stormtrooper7 (Sep 7, 2013)

I have a 2002 Nissan Altima, I bought it in April of this year with 121,+ miles, turns out it had blown heads, and upon further inspection it had a cracked block, I had the engine replaced, and it ran well up till a week ago, It stalled constantly, I did some research and ended up replacing the cam and crankshaft sensor, (im a chick and that crankshaft sensor was a B****) but it's still running rough very rough, I took it to a shop and found out the guy who installed the new engine had knocked out the front catalytic converter, Now its my understanding this thing has 3 cat's, Now before I drop some money I wanna make sure that this could be causing the extended crank time, unstable idle, bucking, hesitation, stumble, chugging, going on while in drive.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The only thing gutting the converters will do is cause P0420/P0430 catalyst efficiency codes. Have you checked the ECM for trouble codes?


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## Stormtrooper7 (Sep 7, 2013)

All im getting is crankshaft sensor codes, even though I just replaced it.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Did you erase the codes and have they reset or are they the old codes? If they are new codes, then you still have a problem. You may have received a bad "new" sensor (not uncommon if it was not a genuine Nissan part) or you may have a shorted or open wire in the circuit. Just because you get a code for a specific part, does not necessarily mean the part is bad. For every code, there is a diagnostic procedure in the factory service manual that needs to be followed to correctly isolate the exact source of the problem. There are a number of places where the factory service manual can be downloaded. A quick Google-search should turn one up.


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## Stormtrooper7 (Sep 7, 2013)

I reset all codes and am throwing no check engine light at this time, but still stalling and running rough. I did notice the clip that goes into the sensor is broken, well the green part anyway, and now slides out without much force. it ran fine after crankshaft sensor replacement for like 30mins then stalled while doing about 45mph and then started chugging and bucking and has been like that ever since.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

First thing you want to do is repair the harness connector for the crank sensor; the connector can come apart during driving which will cause even more problems.

Since you're not getting any fault codes, the stalling and rough running can be caused by several things:

- A major vacuum leak in the intake system. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

- Low fuel pump pressure. To test the fuel pressure, Tee-in a tempoarary fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel tube. The readings at idle should be around 51 psi. 

- Dirty air filter.

- A weak cylinder(s) caused by faulty fuel injector(s) or weak ignition coil(s).


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## 87nis300zxt3t4 (Dec 2, 2014)

Even though it's new it could be faulty I bought one for my 2005 altima and it was faulty maybe because wit was generic but I bought one from nissan and it was a little more pricy but it worked


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