# changing rotors



## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

went to a mechanic today and he suggested that i fix the pads and rotors on the front brakes...he said it would cost 230 taxed and installed....he said he is getting glass pads too.. is this a good deal or what?? my rotors are warped tho..


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## Sanyo (Dec 19, 2003)

Whats the car? I know for my front brake pads they where like 13 back shoes where like 13 front rotors where 20 a peice and the rear drums wore like 20-30 each.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

is it possible for me to change myt own pads and rotors???


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

Liquider said:


> is it possible for me to change my own pads and rotors???


With the right tools and some know-how, yes.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

is there a right up or which tools i need and how to do it please>?


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

http://www.floridasr20s.com/brakes.html

That is a basic write-up. Although it involves a brake upgrade, the idea is pretty much the same, and its not really as detailed as it could be. Skip step 3 and 4.


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## Sanyo (Dec 19, 2003)

Theres alotta special tools you can buy to make it easier and faster, like caliper spreaders, but pft why spend extra, screwdrivers and pliers do the job fine Best way to do it is take both wheels off, while leaving one side intact. The front are easy to do, just pull the pads out after take the caliper off, but the new shoes in, push the brake pad bad enough to fit over the rotor and bolt them back on. The rear (if drums) are a pain in the ass. More parts to fuck up, same thing to one wheel at a time, keeping the other wheel together to make it easier to put it back together. The tools you NEED are umm a wrench or whatever to get the wheels off, a jack (two recommended), miscellaneous socket sizes (a normal generic set should have all the sizes you need). I think those are the bare minimums, other tools will help but aren't necessary. From start to stop on the front I could probably do them in a half hour or maybe a bit more (including jacking it up and taking the wheels off). Also, seeing as it's winter, and the bolts nissan used like to freeze up, careful with the caliper bolts, they like to break. I used a 5 foot poll for leverage, worked well on 3 of the bolts but snapped the other one off;/ Good luck dude, not to hard, but if you're uneasy about it, get a friend whose somewhat mechanically inclined to show you the first time, after thats it's simple :thumbup:


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

THANKS MAN!!! that helped alot, im going to attempt to do it this weekend...hopefully i wont jack anything up..


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## cybrsoldr (Jan 4, 2004)

Sanyo said:


> the bolts nissan used like to freeze up, careful with the caliper bolts, they like to break.


Yes, be very careful with the caliper bolts (if you have rear calipers). I snapped one of mine and the local autoparts stores do not carry replacements and are a dealer item. Another tip for you is to use anti-seize when reassembling everything. Put some on the wheel studs and on the threads of things so they are easier to take off next time you work on it. I have seen too many people snap off wheel studs because the nut was rusted or seized on the stud. A great penetrating lubricant to free rusted/seized items is PB Blaster.


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## Sanyo (Dec 19, 2003)

The bolts are a dealer only item, but the place I bought it from charged me only like $1.50 for the bolt, nice and shiny and new. The only problem is not all delaers carry them, I had to go to a dealer a few towns over to get it.


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## sno (Oct 4, 2002)

$1.50 a bolt? damn, i musta gotten ripped off. i was charged upwards of $7 per caliper bolt when i was doing my ad22vf upgrade (i was missing a couple bolts).


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## Sanyo (Dec 19, 2003)

Yea you got screwed there dude. The guy had a bag of the bolts, got the recipt somewhere but it was something like $1.50, under $2 with tax, so it was somewhere in like 1-2 bucks, I forget but 7? DAMN


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## 1badnx (Sep 21, 2003)

OH man $7 is nothing. I snapped a the upper caliper slide bolt in the front driver side. Went to my local dealer after calling everywhere else and not finding it and they didn't have em in stock had to order it from japan. cost me $12 and change my friend. The parts guy told me it had something to do with the car not bein built here but he was kinda incoherent, don't know exactly what he was tryin to tell me.


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

donno about rotors, but I changed all 4 brake pad on my se-r it wasn't that difficult. MAKE SURE YOU GREESE the pad and make sure it sits correctly, also watch out on how you break it in, you don't wanna be hitting green fade and crash your car.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

my rotors are really bad now they are making a loud screeching noise from the inside of the car, its really aggravatikng


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## 1badnx (Sep 21, 2003)

the only way that is the rotors screeching if they are hitting the dust shroud that sits around them. sounds more like you pads are gone and you're metal to metal. u need to repair this quick, or u will definately need rotors, no question.


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## slowrhymes (Jan 24, 2004)

On the link harris posted for floridasr20 brakes it said in order to use the 
NX2000 brakes on the 200sx with stock wheels you had to grind the corner 
of the caliper has anybody tried to use the bigger brakes with stock wheels and found any other problems?


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## sno (Oct 4, 2002)

my stock 93 se wheels don't fit over the ad22vf calipers on my car. i believe stock se-r wheels will clear them tho.


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

sno said:


> my stock 93 se wheels don't fit over the ad22vf calipers on my car. i believe stock se-r wheels will clear them tho.


Not without grinding the calipers down they won't, especially when you're talking about the B13 SE-R wheels.


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## slowrhymes (Jan 24, 2004)

harris
are you saying that they will fit they wheels on a stock se if i grind down the caliper for sure? also my parts store doesn't carry either the loaded caliper on the regular in stock does the regular caliper not come with the mounting bracket? i really want different pads but i may just get the loaded and wait. thanks


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

All I am saying is that if I had to grind down the AD22VF caliper to fit under my SE-R wheel, you would likely need to do the same as well.

It is better to get the loaded caliper set, as it will include everything you need. Rotors are sold seperately though. So yea, wait if you have to in order to get a loaded caliper set.


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## slowrhymes (Jan 24, 2004)

also when i sourced rotors i showed twodifferent sizes a 250 mm and 257 mm both are listed as abs opptional but the smaller says without abs or abs op the larger says with abs or abs op wtd? other tthan 7mm


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

I had a similar issue, and what I did was I asked for both size rotors to be shipped over. On one the caliper was very loose and on the other it was a perfect fit. I just can't remember which rotor I picked. I want to say 257mm, but I am just not sure. You could do one thing though. Go to http://www.brakeco.com and order NX2000 rotors through them. If you have an issue with not being able to source rotors through them, let me know. I might be able to find you OEM rotors, although it might be a little pricey.


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

one word about grinding Calipers... it's a REALLY STUPID IDEA...

Honestly, if someone is serious enough to up grade their brakes, they really should go ahead to buy some 15" rims, 200sx se-r rims are cheap and readily available.


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

atomicbomberman said:


> one word about grinding Calipers... it's a REALLY STUPID IDEA...


Go on sr20forum and make a thread asking how many B13 SE-R folks have done exactly what I have. There is NOTHING wrong with grinding down the calipers a little.

Please enlighten me as to why you oppose this. I have yet to hear of any problems that may have occured due to someone grinding down their calipers.


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## Red_Barchetta_1994 (Oct 13, 2003)

*Hey*

Front brakes are fucking easy man!11,just do this: Jack up the car(i do it by the engine/tranny crossmember in front),MAKE SURE YOU PUT JACKSTANDS UNDERNEATH!!,Start with your Right side first.Do it ONE AT A TIME.Take off your wheels,then take odd two bolts holding caliper to the bracket,pull it out.Take a coat hanger wire and attach the caliper to the strut with it,so it does not dangle or fall off.Next,tale off two bolts holding the bracket,lay aside.MAKE SURE TO USE LOTS OF LUBRICATION TO LOOSEN BOLTS EASIER.Take off your caliper,and go have it machined(it should not cost all that much,and most any auto parts store does it),or if your caliper is worn out of specs or warped,get new rotors.While you're getting rotors,get pads ,and stick-on silencers or you can remove Nissan ones,and apply some grease in between them,but that will be kinda messsy though.Then get real big pliers and push the piston back into caliper,or you can buy a real inexpensive pusher tool,and it will make it so much easier.Install New rotor(or a remachined used one),take two of your wheel nuts and tighten the with your hand such that it will hold the rotor in place.Reinstall the caliper bracket and tighten bolts.Install new pads with silencers,put the caliper back on,tighten caliper bolts.
NOW GO DO THE OTHER SIDE SAME WAY.

After you're done make sure you just pump the pedal a few times before test drive and you're set.Well that should be it,hope i didn't miss anything.

Good luck


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

Red_Barchetta_1994 said:


> Front brakes are fucking easy man!11,just do this: Jack up the car(i do it by the engine/tranny crossmember in front),MAKE SURE YOU PUT JACKSTANDS UNDERNEATH!!,Start with your Right side first.Do it ONE AT A TIME.Take off your wheels,then take odd two bolts holding caliper to the bracket,pull it out.Take a coat hanger wire and attach the caliper to the strut with it,so it does not dangle or fall off.Next,tale off two bolts holding the bracket,lay aside.MAKE SURE TO USE LOTS OF LUBRICATION TO LOOSEN BOLTS EASIER.Take off your caliper,and go have it machined(it should not cost all that much,and most any auto parts store does it),or if your caliper is worn out of specs or warped,get new rotors.While you're getting rotors,get pads ,and stick-on silencers or you can remove Nissan ones,and apply some grease in between them,but that will be kinda messsy though.Then get real big pliers and push the piston back into caliper,or you can buy a real inexpensive pusher tool,and it will make it so much easier.Install New rotor(or a remachined used one),take two of your wheel nuts and tighten the with your hand such that it will hold the rotor in place.Reinstall the caliper bracket and tighten bolts.Install new pads with silencers,put the caliper back on,tighten caliper bolts.
> NOW GO DO THE OTHER SIDE SAME WAY.
> 
> After you're done make sure you just pump the pedal a few times before test drive and you're set.Well that should be it,hope i didn't miss anything.
> ...


if you actually disconnected the caliper you'll need to bleed the brakes!


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## Red_Barchetta_1994 (Oct 13, 2003)

*Sorry*



Gsolo said:


> if you actually disconnected the caliper you'll need to bleed the brakes!


My mistake i meant ROTOR(Machined),and yes you are correct about that.But if you do not disconnect the caliper,you don't have to bleed the brakes as long as you follow the above sequence.


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## Red_Barchetta_1994 (Oct 13, 2003)

*oh*



Red_Barchetta_1994 said:


> My mistake i meant ROTOR(Machined),and yes you are correct about that.But if you do not disconnect the caliper,you don't have to bleed the brakes as long as you follow the above sequence.


Also i noticed in your signature you have a 1970 Chevy.Tell more about that pleaser.


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

Red_Barchetta_1994 said:


> Also i noticed in your signature you have a 1970 Chevy.Tell more about that pleaser.


1970 Chevrolet Bel Air. It's a full size car...about 18foot long. 350V8 w/2bbl carb, 2.5" single exhuast w/cherry bomb. 3.36 rear end. what else do you want to know? oh its a 4 door sedan. somewhere on the forums i have a picture of it but dont know where.


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## Bonesmugglar (Jan 14, 2004)

I just did an oem brake job on my se-r. Cost me 150 bux for 2 new rotors, ceramic pads, brake stop squeal and brake cleaner.... the pads were 50 bux


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## Red_Barchetta_1994 (Oct 13, 2003)

*sweet*



Gsolo said:


> 1970 Chevrolet Bel Air. It's a full size car...about 18foot long. 350V8 w/2bbl carb, 2.5" single exhuast w/cherry bomb. 3.36 rear end. what else do you want to know? oh its a 4 door sedan. somewhere on the forums i have a picture of it but dont know where.


I used to have a 1970 Chevy 3/4 ton truck,350 4bbl,th350 tranny,big ass Eaton 8 lug rear(Like 4:56 gear ratio),dual exhaust with h-pipe and 2-chamber flowmasters.That thing Hauled ass!!! But sold it for two reasons:1)GAS HOG OMG!!I could acually see the needle on the gas gauge move down to empty.2)Weight fee was like 300 bucks every six months and i couldn't afford it.So i sold the truck and bought a Sentra...


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

Red_Barchetta_1994 said:


> I used to have a 1970 Chevy 3/4 ton truck,350 4bbl,th350 tranny,big ass Eaton 8 lug rear(Like 4:56 gear ratio),dual exhaust with h-pipe and 2-chamber flowmasters.That thing Hauled ass!!! But sold it for two reasons:1)GAS HOG OMG!!I could acually see the needle on the gas gauge move down to empty.2)Weight fee was like 300 bucks every six months and i couldn't afford it.So i sold the truck and bought a Sentra...


my 4000lbs doesn't bother me...my average of 15mpg does


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