# 1989 Nissan Sentra Starting / Stalling Issue



## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

My girlfriend has an 89 Nissan Sentra. It has always had a rough idle since she purchased it, but has been running fine. Anyway, a few nights ago, it died while driving up a hill, and from there after it would need to crank for a couple of seconds before finally starting up. 

I cleaned the carburetor, checked the spark plugs, and also changed the fuel filter. It worked fine for a day. It idled better and started up fine.

However, this morning, it took a while for it to crank again and then a few blocks down the road, it died. We weren't able to get it to start up again. I left it with my uncle since I had to go to work, but he has called me and told me that he tested the fuel pump and it appears to be working fine.

What should I check next? I'm thinking electrical, but I know you guys can probably help me. Thanks!


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

Is it a manual or automatic? You said it did it while going up hill, when else?


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## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

it's an automatic. The second time it stalled was this morning, but it was on flat ground. The only common link I can think of is that it was cold at the times the car died.


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## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

any quick ideas?


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

Check for vacuum leaks, from there it may be sensor related. Check the computer under the seat for any possible codes.


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## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

I don't have a scanner to read the codes, but I think I may have found the problem. Does anyone what part the blue arrow is pointing at? 



What I found was that there is current coming from the wire right before this part (the green arrow), but at the other end of the part, there is no current (at the red X). Is it likely that this is what the cause of the problem is?


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## TOOQIKK (Jul 11, 2009)

check on autozone they have wiring diagrams....sorry not much help as i have no experience with the auto powered cars only manuals and am still learning about this finicky old cars we have...lol but seriously autozone has some good free info on their site! check it out!


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## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks! I did find the part on autozone's website - it is the Ignition Control Module. It's a little over 100 bucks, so I hope this is the only issue. Does anyone know if it is normal to not have a current coming out of this module?


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## TOOQIKK (Jul 11, 2009)

thats what i thought it might be but wasnt sure ...i know alot about b13s and sr20s still learning about b12s and n13slol

might try the junk yard first ....little cheaper than 100 bones...


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

Yeah, it's the second version they made of the module after the Hitachi one. You can test the resistance on one, a Haynes manual says how. Also, at the four pin harness female end, make sure you have 12v coming in. I can't remember which, but one of the top two pins on the harness is the 12v line, but turning the ignition to the on position and checking the pins individually won't take long anyway.


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

Looks line the mounting and harness is the same as an 87, I have a few extra modules and coils if you want them, just do a more thorough test and I'll sell them off for cheap if they prove bad. All my spare parts test good.


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## ryan24 (Mar 18, 2010)

fairlanephantom said:


> Looks line the mounting and harness is the same as an 87, I have a few extra modules and coils if you want them, just do a more thorough test and I'll sell them off for cheap if they prove bad. All my spare parts test good.


You have a PM :thumbup:


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## MYKEY6987 (Mar 31, 2010)

I have an 1989 Sentra ; it was doing the same exact thing ; I changed the oxygen sensor , plugs , because they are probably fouled due carbon back up, fuel filter , just because and she runs just as smooth as silk now . do you know if you have a ga16i engine? If you do your sensor is located directly in front of the engine, also DON'T THROW ADAPTER AWAY IT COMES OFF THE SENSOR AND SCREWS ON TO THE NEW ONE


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## JunkieJack (Mar 29, 2012)

Hey Ryan 24, I was wondering if you go this issued resolved cause I am getting the same issue with my car today. Please get back to me as soon as possible!

Another thing, when your girlfriend was driving the car did she notice that the BRAKE, CHARGE and the light above the window washer image was ON?!?!?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

JunkieJack said:


> Hey Ryan 24, I was wondering if you go this issued resolved cause I am getting the same issue with my car today. Please get back to me as soon as possible!
> 
> Another thing, when your girlfriend was driving the car did she notice that the BRAKE, CHARGE and the light above the window washer image was ON?!?!?


If you had looked, you would've noticed that "Ryan24" last logged on back in March of 2010.


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## MYKEY6987 (Mar 31, 2010)

*STRARTING AND STALLING*



jdg said:


> If you had looked, you would've noticed that "Ryan24" last logged on back in March of 2010.


Was able to fix the problem; right under the breather there is a connector that pretty much controls all of the sensors if you will  it had lots of build up so that a good connection was impossible , once cleaned she ran like a little spitfire once more


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## kidoelement (Mar 14, 2012)

Hey ppl.. Just got my first b12!!!! A friend of my dads gave it to me because he couldnt drive manual lol. Its had its problems but one by one i have been taking care of them my self. But there is one problem im having difficulties with. The same as "ryan24" had . Whenever it wants it turns on like a champ but all of a sudden it stalls or idles really bad, and sometimes it gives me a hard time trying to turn it on. Also when im driving it seems to choke and looses power. When i get to a stop it wants to turn off so i have to keep the pedal in to keep it alive. I have changes fuel filter, distributor, and cleaned parts off of the tb. i have checked the ecu and i get code 34, and 45. Plz if any knowledgeable ppl here can help i would gladly appreciate it

(p.s) The car was parked for over a year without use. Idk if that would help


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## MYKEY6987 (Mar 31, 2010)

kidoelement said:


> Hey ppl.. Just got my first b12!!!! A friend of my dads gave it to me because he couldnt drive manual lol. Its had its problems but one by one i have been taking care of them my self. But there is one problem im having difficulties with. The same as "ryan24" had . Whenever it wants it turns on like a champ but all of a sudden it stalls or idles really bad, and sometimes it gives me a hard time trying to turn it on. Also when im driving it seems to choke and looses power. When i get to a stop it wants to turn off so i have to keep the pedal in to keep it alive. I have changes fuel filter, distributor, and cleaned parts off of the tb. i have checked the ecu and i get code 34, and 45. Plz if any knowledgeable ppl here can help i would gladly appreciate it
> 
> (p.s) The car was parked for over a year without use. Idk if that would help


Try to locate the connector I'm talking about under the breather to see if it's all green inside , if so get it cleaned out and see if that helps it should fix most of the ruff idle as well as the hard to strart issues . It,s not a piece you can buy that I know of because it comes with the whole harness


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## kidoelement (Mar 14, 2012)

On the tp?


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## kidoelement (Mar 14, 2012)

I ment tb on my previous post :newbie:


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## MYKEY6987 (Mar 31, 2010)

when you take the breather off,under the right side of the carb you should see a connector that has 4 or 5 wires(can't remember exactly) . when I say right side I mean passenger side of carb. It's not easy to see or get to , but when you find it clean it well and that should do it


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## AaronCTexas (May 15, 2014)

I had almost exactly the same symptoms and went through troubleshooting experience/steps on my 1989 Nissan Sentra 1.6L w/ manual transmission before I saw this forum post on 5/14/2014. I had replaced various vacuum lines, the BVT valve, the throttle position sensor, the O2 sensor, and the distributor assembly (essentially to replace the crank angle sensor embedded within the distributor assembly). I had even pulled the catalytic convertor off thinking that maybe it was clogged. The throttle position sensor was probably not faulty, some of the vacuum lines were old and cracky, and the distributor assembly was worn and oily on the inside (I really thought that would do it), but when I buttoned everything back up, the car still sputtered and stalled out. Thank goodness I saw the suggestion here to check the electrical connector on the top passenger side of the throttle body assembly. Of the several pins in that connector, they were all green with copper corrosion. Once I cleaned the pins up on both the cable side and the sensor assembly side at the throttle body and plugged the connector back in, the car started up and ran just great, smooooth. You guys are lifesavers. Be careful with these wire harness connectors at the throttle body, because they have a retention clip wire that wraps around them, and if you don't remove that properly, you can crack the housing of the wore harness. Pesky design to say the least. Use a tiny screwdriver blade to get under the wire clip to lift it up and away, starting from one of the short sides of the harness. That's how I did it anyways.


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