# '92 Sentra SE intermittent starting problem



## Telnetter (Jan 28, 2004)

Hello all,
I'm brand new here so I hope this is the right place to ask my question. It's not so simple so I apologize for being long on this. (I also asked this question on another board when I got referred to here).

I have a '92 Sentra SE 1.6 5spd which is being an absolute headache & so far it's only during the cold season that this problem exists (this being the 2nd winter). Sometimes it can be 30-40deg out & the car will crank & crank but never kick over, yet it can be 5deg out & it starts right up, although this is not always the case. Once after parking at a friends house on a 10deg day it was only 8hrs later I went to leave & for over an hour I cranked it (not continuously) but it would just not fire up (& had AAA tow it home the next day when it STILL wouldn't start after another 1/2hr attempt)), yet coming home after being away for 9 days with the car sitting frozen in the frigid cold driveway with <0deg temps it kicked right over. Sometimes it'll be fine for 3 days straight but then leave it parked for anywhere from 4-16 hours throughout the day & it will just refuse to start, but leave it parked for a very short time, such as <1hr, it'll kick over almost (notice I said 'almost') every time. It's very unpredictable because when this happens, external conditions (outside temp, length of time parked, etc) are not always the same & it's driving me insane. On the times it DOES start, it'll drive to San Francisco w/o the slightest problem (I live in NJ), but it's completely random & undeterminable as to when this occurs which is making it hard to decipher. I've even tried cycling the fuel pump with the key as much as 8 or 10 times before attempting to crank but that doesn't make a difference. I even left it at a shop for 3 days but was told they couldn't diagnose it. You can 'feel' it wants very badly to start but just won't kick over. It starts on the day it feels like & that's it. 
Notes - 
1 - The fuel pump is OK. I hear it cycle properly for 4-5 seconds everytime I turn the key to 'on', before actually cranking.
2 - Every time w/o exception on unsuccessful start attempts, I always smell the fuel as it cranks. And since it drives fine when it DOES start, I know I don't have a fuel delivery problem.
3 - The car has 120K miles & the problem only started last winter. It was fine all summer until 5 or 6 weeks ago. Other than this it's always been very dependable. 
4 - Car has fresh plugs, air filter, & battery.
5 - I use the same gas every time.
6 - It's completely stock & never been tampered with (I'm the orig owner).
Thanks very much for the time on this. I hope I can repay the favor by helping someone else when needed.
Charlie
(Telnetter)


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## Blitztech (Jul 4, 2002)

the problem you're most likely having is an electrical connection problem or temperature resistance device. Have you checked all the connections to the water temperature sender and intake air temperature sensor? Next time it won't start, pull the battery cable off and wait 5 minutes for it to reset the ECU. Then reconnect and attempt to start it again. If the resistance measurements are correct from the temperature sensors, then you probably have a bad ECU.
P.S. Check your ground cable and the ground for the computer. 

most likely it's the computer, but make absolutely positive first


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

*Same problem here.*

I'm having the same issue, so I won't repeat all that's been said. I live in Bronx, NY and all symptoms sound identical. When I turn the key, the motor DOES NOT TURN OVER at all. And then sometimes it starts right up. I also suspect it's an electrical connection issue, but not sure. It also could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself. Occasionally when having problems starting, I continue to try and hear a slight (very slight) noise, almost like a short circuit sound.... but definitely NOT one. It's like the connection is trying to be made and is barely turning the starter. When it gets to that point, I know it's about to start. The battery is fine, the clutch switch is fine too.

Any help would.... uh.... help. LOL

Thanks in advance.


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## [email protected] (Sep 28, 2004)

*[email protected]*



2rixie said:


> I'm having the same issue, so I won't repeat all that's been said. I live in Bronx, NY and all symptoms sound identical. When I turn the key, the motor DOES NOT TURN OVER at all. And then sometimes it starts right up. I also suspect it's an electrical connection issue, but not sure. It also could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself. Occasionally when having problems starting, I continue to try and hear a slight (very slight) noise, almost like a short circuit sound.... but definitely NOT one. It's like the connection is trying to be made and is barely turning the starter. When it gets to that point, I know it's about to start. The battery is fine, the clutch switch is fine too.
> 
> Any help would.... uh.... help. LOL
> 
> Thanks in advance.


i have the same problem, i own a 92 sentra xe, it could be your fuel injectors or a bad e.s.u.


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## kibitok (Jan 16, 2004)

*Starter Motor Issue?*

2rixie,
You may have a starter motor problem. Mine would crank intermittently; other times brilliantly, other times like it had a heavy load or not at all at times. (needed a push start). 

I replaced the copper bushings and carbon brushes in the starter motor, they were completely worn thro', and it has worked brilliantly for the past 2 years now.


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## VASR20 (Oct 15, 2004)

From my experience I'd say it's a bad starter, and maybe check your coolant temp sensor too. On my old 91 SE it flooded out really bad; I actually had to pull the fuel pump fuse temporarily to get it started. Unplugged the coolant temp sensor and plugged it back it, fixed the problem for good.
Brian


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## Catman (May 21, 2004)

> 2 - Every time w/o exception on unsuccessful start attempts, I always smell the fuel as it cranks. And since it drives fine when it DOES start, I know I don't have a fuel delivery problem.


Don't know why you would be smelling fuel? Is there a fuel leak somewhere? My first thought was a clogged fuel filter. I had similar symptoms of hard starting intermittently about 85,000 miles ago. It ran fine when started, even with a clogged fuel filter. Change it every 30,000 miles now.

I am going to pick-up my car tomorrow. Needed plug wires for second time. Seems wires start shorting out about 80,000 or 90,000 miles in my situation. May be something to look at. 

You mentioned:



> 4 - Car has fresh plugs, air filter, & battery


What about cap, rotor, pcv, O2 sensor ? If they are original, then time to replace.

If you have not done a complete ^ tune-up in a while, may be worth trying.


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## Catman (May 21, 2004)

Oh, I forgot to say welcome! Good luck! :thumbup:


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

kibitok said:


> 2rixie,
> You may have a starter motor problem. Mine would crank intermittently; other times brilliantly, other times like it had a heavy load or not at all at times. (needed a push start).
> 
> I replaced the copper bushings and carbon brushes in the starter motor, they were completely worn thro', and it has worked brilliantly for the past 2 years now.


Thanks for the insight. Without a garage or warm weather to work, I think I'm gonna have to just have the starter replaced.

Thanks again


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

2rixie said:


> Thanks for the insight. Without a garage or warm weather to work, I think I'm gonna have to just have the starter replaced.
> 
> Thanks again


I've found that when it's not starting properly, I can wiggle and jiggle the key in the ignition and eventually get it to turn over and start. Ignition issue maybe.....?


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

If it's cranking and not starting, I highly doubt it's the starter, unless it's cranking really slowly during the times that it won't start. I'd say it could be an intermittent problem with your ignition switch, ignition relays, or some component of the ignition itself, like the coil, plug wires, or injectors, so long as you're hearing the fuel pump prime before the times that it won't start. It's not your inhibitor/interlock relay if the starter turns at all, so there's no need to suspect that. Get ahold of a multimeter and check some things next time it won't start. Use a screwdriver to remove the steering column cover and check for 12V always at the white wire, 12v at the white/blue wire only during ACC and ON key positions, 12v at the black/red wire only during ON and START positions and 12v at the black/white and black/yellow wires only during the START position. Doing this you can confirm that your ignition switch is not the problem. Now, this doesn't mean there isn't a problem at the ends of these wires. I also doubt that any sensors on the engine would cause the car not to start. Most of those sensors don't come into play until the engine is started and warmed up. If the starter is cranking, you've got fuel pumping and putting the gas at full throttle has no effect on it starting, then it could be an injector, ignition (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs), stuck EGR valve, ECU power or ground, or the ECU itself.


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## Catman (May 21, 2004)

2rixie said:


> I've found that when it's not starting properly, I can wiggle and jiggle the key in the ignition and eventually get it to turn over and start. Ignition issue maybe.....?


I was having problems turning my key. Problem solved by getting a new key cut using the key code for my my vehicle. Is your key worn out? Also, I make sure I have a light key chain. Heard a key chain with a lot of weight/keys can mess up the ignition.


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

Tool and Catman (dunna-nunna nunna-nunna.... CAT MANNNNNN)  

Thank you both. Both sound like very real possibilities. The key chain is not the issue. You know the little ID tag you get with a new car with the vehicle make model etc. from the dealership that's usually attached to the key? THAT'S all I had on there! LOL But it IS an original key, so......?

The testing of the wires in the steering column is what I thought I would do but had no idea where to start. Your post helped a ton. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks again. (Tune in next time when..... same Cat time.... same Cat channel) :cheers:

Oh yeah.... Tool, when it's not working, it's not even turning over. It's definitely something electrical/connection that's the issue. I was thinking of replacing the starter because I feared it might be something (electrical) internal to the starter.


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## Catman (May 21, 2004)

I guess that would mean I drive the Cat mobile!  

Are all your connections to the battery and starter good/tight/free of corrosion? Maybe be good to check before replacing a starter.

Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da...Catman! :thumbup:


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

Catman said:


> I guess that would mean I drive the Cat mobile!
> 
> Are all your connections to the battery and starter good/tight/free of corrosion? Maybe be good to check before replacing a starter.
> 
> Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da Da...Catman! :thumbup:


ROFL

It really "feels like" it's in the ignition. Without the car itself moving, only me wiggling the key inside the ignition, will make it start. And again, it's intermittent. I can (when it's acting up) reproduce the results every time. I no longer park on a hill in fear that I won't be able to start her and have to turn her into a clutch-popper! LOL

I'll troubleshoot it further with the wire checks and let you guys know what i find.

Robin wouldn't last an entire show with you. As soon as he said "Holy Anything", you'd eat him !!


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## SeR.NisSUN (Sep 29, 2004)

all imma say is ___________S________E_______-_______R baby


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## Black Max (Oct 26, 2004)

Ok guys, maybe I can help out on both sides of this.

For the one that will crank, but not start...My mother had similar problem with her 94 B13 when she first got it a couple years ago. Car would start fine if it was started every day. If she let it sit more than 2 days, it took forever to start. After a couple of weeks of hopeless diagnosis, I found it was ignition related. I had a 94 B13 also and I suspected ignition problem so I decided to try some parts changing. The problem was the electronic ignition module in the distributor. Couldn't find one aftermarket and dealer wanted over $300 because they said it was only available with complete distributor. Ended up going to a boneyard and getting the whole thing for $30. The only problem is that there are about 3 different styles of this module and they are not interchangable.

Now for the one that won't crank...Just had this problem with my 96 Maxima. Kept thinking it was neutral interlock switch that is mounted on clutch pedal. Ended up bypassing it but still had problem. Problem ended up being ignition switch that mounts to end of key cylinder. Don't know if Sentra's are set up the same way but would think so. The shaft coming out of key cylinder is metal, and the ignition switch is plastic. The plastic had cracked where the keyway went into it. This caused it to crank and start as normal some of the time, and other times, you would have to play with it before it would crank. The keyway is shaped like a T with the key cylinder part being metal and male. The ignition switch part is female and made of plastic. If you can picture this in your head, think of a T with a circle around it. That is the way the ignition switch is made. It was cracked from one of the corners of the T over to the outside of the circle. This caused it to still work sometimes by turning key harder. The crack caused extra play in the key when it was turned to the start position. If this is your problem, it will take less than an hour to fix, and about $35 for the switch from your local aftermarket parts house.

Good luck and keep us posted.


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## Fernan Abracosa (Oct 7, 2004)

Hey Telnetter,

Although you check the fuel pump and it's working but sometimes when the dirt inside the gas tank is suck and it can’t get any gas. Try to get it out of the gas tank and check the fuel pump filter. It's better to remove the gas tank and clean it. The dirt inside can be the culprit. Also clean all the fuel lines by blowing high-pressure air.

Hope this will help...


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## 2rixie (Oct 16, 2004)

Black Max said:


> Now for the one that won't crank...Just had this problem with my 96 Maxima. Kept thinking it was neutral interlock switch that is mounted on clutch pedal. Ended up bypassing it but still had problem. Problem ended up being ignition switch that mounts to end of key cylinder. Don't know if Sentra's are set up the same way but would think so. The shaft coming out of key cylinder is metal, and the ignition switch is plastic. The plastic had cracked where the keyway went into it. This caused it to crank and start as normal some of the time, and other times, you would have to play with it before it would crank. The keyway is shaped like a T with the key cylinder part being metal and male. The ignition switch part is female and made of plastic. If you can picture this in your head, think of a T with a circle around it. That is the way the ignition switch is made. It was cracked from one of the corners of the T over to the outside of the circle. This caused it to still work sometimes by turning key harder. The crack caused extra play in the key when it was turned to the start position. If this is your problem, it will take less than an hour to fix, and about $35 for the switch from your local aftermarket parts house.
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted.


Sweet !! Picturing this sounds EXACTLY like what's probably wrong! I can even wiggle it a little better with the key inserted one way over the other (flipped over). What part do I need? Did you DIY? Tools?

Thanks a ton. Nice post.


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## sentratuarusguy (Nov 2, 2004)

Telnetter said:


> Hello all,
> I'm brand new here so I hope this is the right place to ask my question. It's not so simple so I apologize for being long on this. (I also asked this question on another board when I got referred to here).
> 
> I have a '92 Sentra SE 1.6 5spd which is being an absolute headache & so far it's only during the cold season that this problem exists (this being the 2nd winter). Sometimes it can be 30-40deg out & the car will crank & crank but never kick over, yet it can be 5deg out & it starts right up, although this is not always the case. Once after parking at a friends house on a 10deg day it was only 8hrs later I went to leave & for over an hour I cranked it (not continuously) but it would just not fire up (& had AAA tow it home the next day when it STILL wouldn't start after another 1/2hr attempt)), yet coming home after being away for 9 days with the car sitting frozen in the frigid cold driveway with <0deg temps it kicked right over. Sometimes it'll be fine for 3 days straight but then leave it parked for anywhere from 4-16 hours throughout the day & it will just refuse to start, but leave it parked for a very short time, such as <1hr, it'll kick over almost (notice I said 'almost') every time. It's very unpredictable because when this happens, external conditions (outside temp, length of time parked, etc) are not always the same & it's driving me insane. On the times it DOES start, it'll drive to San Francisco w/o the slightest problem (I live in NJ), but it's completely random & undeterminable as to when this occurs which is making it hard to decipher. I've even tried cycling the fuel pump with the key as much as 8 or 10 times before attempting to crank but that doesn't make a difference. I even left it at a shop for 3 days but was told they couldn't diagnose it. You can 'feel' it wants very badly to start but just won't kick over. It starts on the day it feels like & that's it.
> ...


it sounds like your problem is that you are flooding it and it wont start because of that. My 93 did that. try pulling out the fuel pump fuse and cranking it over with the throtle wide open it should start then die soon after . reinstall the fuse and it should start right up good to go.


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