# tips for cheap sound deadening



## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

Any body have tips on cheaper alternatives to DynaMat? I'm planning on installing a pretty solid stereo system which I salvaged from my previous car. Its not anything monsterous, but I want to maximize the efficiency. 

[speakers Boston Acousticsx4,Pacific Gold amp,a simple int. amped Bazooka, with an Eclipse unit]

I'm planning to replace the nasty carpet too, so this would be the time to do it. It would be great to find a way to save money and get friggin creative at the same time. Besides, I'm going to need a new tranny soon, grrrr.

Some suggestions I have heard/read:
undercoating of course
several thin coats of latex paint with sand mixed in
gutter repair tape (the thick tarry stuff w/ aluminum backing)
fiberglass insulation squished between the door panel and the door metal

The only one I've actually seen is the last one. I wasn't too impressed, but I didn't have a chance to do a before and after....
Thanx


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## n0ph0bia (Jul 20, 2005)

93greysleeper said:


> Any body have tips on cheaper alternatives to DynaMat? I'm planning on installing a pretty solid stereo system which I salvaged from my previous car. Its not anything monsterous, but I want to maximize the efficiency.
> 
> [speakers Boston Acousticsx4,Pacific Gold amp,a simple int. amped Bazooka, with an Eclipse unit]
> 
> ...


 Here are a few thoughts:
The roofing stuff Peal & Seel works great as long as you do a good prep job (just did this to my buddies car a month ago). The best stuff out there for the money has got to be RAAMat. That stuff sticks great and is cheap (compared to Dynamat). You'll also have good luck using a layer of closed cell foam on top of that. http://www.raamaudio.com/. I used Cascade matting and spray on my car and that did a great job. Far more spendy then the RAAMat though.


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

*Cascade*



n0ph0bia said:


> Here are a few thoughts:
> The roofing stuff Peal & Seel works great as long as you do a good prep job (just did this to my buddies car a month ago). The best stuff out there for the money has got to be RAAMat. That stuff sticks great and is cheap (compared to Dynamat). You'll also have good luck using a layer of closed cell foam on top of that. http://www.raamaudio.com/. I used Cascade matting and spray on my car and that did a great job. Far more spendy then the RAAMat though.


They sell alot on eBay, I'm especially interested in the spray. So you're impressed with it? Its supposed to be better and cheaper than DynoMat spray. It also seems like a better idea than lumpy undercoating...

-----------------------

"Its not where you've been, its where you're going."


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## n0ph0bia (Jul 20, 2005)

93greysleeper said:


> They sell alot on eBay, I'm especially interested in the spray. So you're impressed with it? Its supposed to be better and cheaper than DynoMat spray. It also seems like a better idea than lumpy undercoating...
> 
> -----------------------
> 
> "Its not where you've been, its where you're going."


 Yeah. They make good stuff, let me be specific my experience with Raamat is with their matting not the spray stuff. I have only used Cascade and eDead spray on deadner. The spray stuff is way cool, it goes on very well with a spray gun, plus its lighter than the mat. I wish I could comment on the Dynamat spray, I have never used it, I've never been willing to pay the price they ask. A good friend of mine has also used and thinks highly of the second skin spray deadener and stealth kote.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

im doing this soon and the raamat looks nice and cheap! i have a huge empty space below my rear 1/4 window with nothing in it so im going to stuff it with house insulation just to help with HVAC and what not........hopefully it will also give the panle a nice solid sound if you knock on it.

i have a cheap trick fo rattles. go to home depot and get some expanding foam in a can and use it in small areas you want to add strength to. i used it under my trunk lid (between the lid and the braces) and now the lid gives a solid "thunk" if you tap it and not a hallow "dink."


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## wildmanee (Nov 21, 2004)

Pete, friggin awesome idea with the expanding foam. I have never thought of that before. Gonna have to fix some door rattles soon haha :thumbup:


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

wildmane said:


> Pete, friggin awesome idea with the expanding foam. I have never thought of that before. Gonna have to fix some door rattles soon haha :thumbup:


if you use it on doors you wont be able to use your windows. only use it in areas were there are no moving parts/drain holes/electricals you may need to remove.


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## TheMadCheshire (Dec 30, 2004)

yeah, i've read of people doing that and had to go back and scrape all the foam out of their doors. I guess if you never use your windows you could do it.  Btw, the Peel and Seal stuff worked great for my trunk rattles, it was like 20 bucks, but i got my trunk done, my back quarters and my doors for one roll! But it wasn't called Peel and Seal. Same stuff though. heh.


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

OK, I think I'm going with a combination of the peel n seal and pink panther insulation. You're right about the peel n seal, they must have another brand name. So, I'll have to find an all-knowing Lowes clerk who won't get confused at my request. "For the last time sir, we don't sell car stuff here" 

Also, the trans. just stb, so I'm off to Cottman's, yay...


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

Pete is right about the expanding foam. I used it with great success in the past, but remember---IT IS A BITCH TO TAKE OFF!!! Also, know that it WILL expand to 3x its applied size. In the first 15 minutes it will expand alot, but over the next 2 days, it will continue to grow and stick to whatever it touches. That said, it is good stuff for filling pillars and stuff. 

I have used fiberglass insulation in the past to pack body panels in a van with good results. I did apply dynamat exteme to the floor, wheel wells and firewall and used stinger liquid roadkill as best I could in the body panels 1st. Then I went through with about a 1/4 of a bail of r14 (the insulating value has no bearing on sound absorbtion) and packed all the open space I could find. When using insulation, the key is to pack it tight enough to stay put, but not so tight that it gets compressed. You want it to stay airy and open. The end result was an amazing difference! What was previously a noisy, 23 year old car became something you could whisper in at 65mph. When the windows were up, all you could hear was the wind noise rushing over the windshield... no engine, no exhaust, no tires, nothing.


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

*thanks cap'n shrap I appreciate it*

Leaving the fiberglass insulation loose does makes more sense. In the door panels, would you recommend layering the fiberglass so that its tight enough not to slide down? 

btw for anyone concerned, I found PeelnSeal on Lowes web site, see thread.


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

*PeelnSeal at Lowes*



93greysleeper said:


> OK, I think I'm going with a combination of the peel n seal and pink panther insulation. You're right about the peel n seal, they must have another brand name. So, I'll have to find an all-knowing Lowes clerk who won't get confused at my request. "For the last time sir, we don't sell car stuff here"
> 
> Also, the trans. just stb, so I'm off to Cottman's, yay...



Just found PeelnSeal at Lowes.com. Its super cheap! In the "flashing and accessories" section- 
Peel™ & Seal 6"x25' Roll Self-Stick Aluminum Faced
Item # 154017
Model # PS625
$12.47

Life is good!


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

^ dosent that stuff smell.


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

pete? said:


> ^ dosent that stuff smell.


yes and will get worse as it ages...

Pink insulation?

It's a car, not a mobil home....


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

*reasons*



myoung said:


> yes and will get worse as it ages...
> 
> Pink insulation?
> 
> It's a car, not a mobil home....



a) I want sound deadening, and this is the time to do it, with body panels off and carpet ready to be changed

b) it should be cheap, because I am a po' middle aged nursing student and this car will be my transportation for the next 3 years or so. When I can afford a new Maxima, I'll go with the gold plated dynamat or whatever.

c) being a New Englander, I love finding a cheaper way to do something, and come out with the same results!

Look at it this way, I can be a test case. If my car starts to smell like asphalt and/or I get itchy from the fiberglass, I will say so. :loser: PEACE


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

first, dont be a jerk off and call mike a loser...........you pail in compairison to mike.............i should know.....im baring his child.

second, i HIGHLY doubt you wil get close to the same results as you would with B-quiet or second skin. you can get 50 sqf of b-quiet for $60-70 ish. cheap almost never = good...i should know, im a cheap sob, i fixed my power steering for $2 instead of $109.....it works great and leaks like a siv. to ever positive there is a negative. if it deadens well it will smell like ASSSSSSSSSSSSS if it smells like flowers it dont do shit for sound. <talking about the cheap stuff of course.


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## 93greysleeper (Apr 29, 2005)

*no no, u misunderstood*



pete? said:


> first, dont be a jerk off and call mike a loser...........you pail in compairison to mike.............i should know.....im baring his child.
> 
> second, i HIGHLY doubt you wil get close to the same results as you would with B-quiet or second skin. you can get 50 sqf of b-quiet for $60-70 ish. cheap almost never = good...i should know, im a cheap sob, i fixed my power steering for $2 instead of $109.....it works great and leaks like a siv. to ever positive there is a negative. if it deadens well it will smell like ASSSSSSSSSSSSS if it smells like flowers it dont do shit for sound. <talking about the cheap stuff of course.


I was calling myself a loser, not anyone else, just my sense of humor. sorry for the misunderstanding. I appreciate the education. I already bought the materials for the doors, but I am considering your advice and going with the superior stuff for under the carpet. thx I will be more careful in the future


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## TheMadCheshire (Dec 30, 2004)

back on track..
Mine smelt for a bit, but then it didn't. Maybe i just don't notice? I really don't think it does anymore though. As for The future maxima, I wouldn't recommend dynomat. I hear rammat and second skin are both good alternatives to dynomat, yet work better and are cheaper.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

93greysleeper said:


> Leaving the fiberglass insulation loose does makes more sense. In the door panels, would you recommend layering the fiberglass so that its tight enough not to slide down?
> 
> btw for anyone concerned, I found PeelnSeal on Lowes web site, see thread.


I am unsure how the fiberglass would work with your windows rolling down, so be sure to check clearance first if you put it in your doors. To answer your question, yes you want to pack it tight enough so it stays put, or possibly use a spray adhesive like 3m #77 to hold it in place. The thing is that you can easily squeeze it to add more, and more and more... so avoid doing that. Just use enough to get the job done and call it a day.


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## pimpride (Mar 28, 2005)

Don't forget the B-Stock prices on Second Skin products! What does B-Stock mean anyways?

Anyways, the reason I brought back this thread is because I will be doing the expanding foam sealant on my trunk lid and wanted to know how much to put in the crevices. Is this stuff strong enough to expand vertically and pry my trunk appart from the bracing?


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

pimpride said:


> Don't forget the B-Stock prices on Second Skin products! What does B-Stock mean anyways?


dosent exist.



pimpride said:


> Anyways, the reason I brought back this thread is because I will be doing the expanding foam sealant on my trunk lid and wanted to know how much to put in the crevices. Is this stuff strong enough to expand vertically and pry my trunk appart from the bracing?


do not get big gap filler. just get the normal small gap filler.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

Initially, fill it about 1/3 of the way. Give it 2-3 days to cure, cuz it will keep growing. I doubt it will push things apart, unless it has no way to escape. Usually it will just ooze out, make a mess and harden. Proceed with caution.


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## pimpride (Mar 28, 2005)

Okay well I will take this stuff back then . 

The B-Stock does exist, click B-Stock on the side menu bar of their website and see the MAJOR difference in prices of their products .

Actually here is the link for regular products-
http://secondskinaudio.com/products/

and here is the specials (B-Stock)-
http://secondskinaudio.com/products/specials.php


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

Here is a good thread about deadeners of all types. http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=111989. It is amazing how the ss guy never forces his product just states what could happen


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

pimpride said:


> The B-Stock does exist, click B-Stock on the side menu bar of their website and see the MAJOR difference in prices of their products .
> 
> Actually here is the link for regular products-
> http://secondskinaudio.com/products/
> ...


i know that, im just saying the 40% discount no longer exists :thumbup:


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## pimpride (Mar 28, 2005)

Did you see my post before I edited it then lol? I said something about the 40% discount then qucikly changed it to the B-Stock after reading through their website lol.


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