# 2000 auto transmission slipping



## mmiller2002 (Sep 29, 2006)

When its been cold, I've noticed that the transmission slips for a second or two whe accelerating. Is there a screen in the transmission that can be cleaned that could help this?

I'm taking it to the shop for a timing belt replacement anyway and may combine services if i think it would help.

It has about 115K miles on it.

Thanks,
Mike


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

mmiller2002 said:


> When its been cold, I've noticed that the transmission slips for a second or two whe accelerating. Is there a screen in the transmission that can be cleaned that could help this?
> 
> I'm taking it to the shop for a timing belt replacement anyway and may combine services if i think it would help.
> 
> ...


Is the fluid level correct? What color is the fluid? It should be bright pinkish/red. If the fluid is brown it indicates that the fluid is burned. Other fluid colors (e.g. silver) indicate contamination. I'd replace the fluid if it has not been done in the last 2 years or 30,000 miles. It's possible that a valve is sticking until the transmisssion warms up. Fresh fluid has a detergent effect.

You can easily drain the fluid (there is a drain plug) and pull the pan. The screen/filter will be accessible after you pull the pan. There will be deposits on the bottom of the pan. A layer of fine "silt" is normal. Slivers of metal or pieces of clutch materials are not.

Note that draining the pan only removes about a third of the transmission fluid (it does not drain the converter). If you want a more complete change I'd repeat the drain process (pan removal not required) after a week or two of driving.

Steve


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## mmiller2002 (Sep 29, 2006)

azrocketman said:


> Is the fluid level correct? What color is the fluid? It should be bright pinkish/red. If the fluid is brown it indicates that the fluid is burned. Other fluid colors (e.g. silver) indicate contamination. I'd replace the fluid if it has not been done in the last 2 years or 30,000 miles. It's possible that a valve is sticking until the transmisssion warms up. Fresh fluid has a detergent effect.
> 
> You can easily drain the fluid (there is a drain plug) and pull the pan. The screen/filter will be accessible after you pull the pan. There will be deposits on the bottom of the pan. A layer of fine "silt" is normal. Slivers of metal or pieces of clutch materials are not.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I think that I'll try the drain/fill/drain/fill... approach and see if it gets better.

Genuine Nissan fluid only? Or is a major aftermarket brand good enough?

Thanks


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

Per smj999smj: "As far as Nissan Type "D" ATF, for those who want to know, it is the original formula Dexron ATF, prior to its reformulations: Dexron/Mercon II, III, IV. While the later Dexron formulas are compatable with the Type "D," Nissan recommends using the Type "D" as it, according to them, prevents the valves in the valve body from sticking better than the later Dexron formulas. Nissan has the original Dexron formula, their Type "D," specifically made for their Nissan/Infiniti transmissions. Nissan has several other type ATF's for specific applications (Type "J", Type "K"), such as the 350Z AT and the Murano's CVT trans"

If you want to be 100% sure use the Nissan Type "D" fluid. Otherwise I'd use a major manufacturer Dexron Fluid (Hint: See if the dealer is using original Nissan ATF or is he using major manufacturer Dexron when he services transmissions.)

Steve


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## Oldnissanguy (Jan 6, 2005)

Hey guys, not trying to hijack the thread, but what about synthetics?


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

I like synthetics for applications where extreme conditions, e.g. heat, are present., I do not see a cost versus performance benefit for normal use.

Steve


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan uses a steel screen rather than the typical filter used in some vehicles and is considered as a non-serviceable item...Nissan's thinking is that if there is enough debris to clog the screen, then likely there is a mechanical failure inside the trans that requires rebuilding. Dropping the pan for inspection is not a bad idea, however. There will always be some metal shavings in the pan, especially on the magnet (which is why it's there). Look for tiny bits of brass or excessive metal shavings that might indicate a hard part failing. Excessive clutch material means a clutch pack is failing. Proper testing would also involve stall and line pressure testes as well as data monitoring the TCM and checking for stored trouble codes for both the engine and trans (most cases, this would illuminate the CEL lamp, however). Proper throttle position switch adjustment per the manufacturer's procedure is also critical for proper shifting (also make sure the throttle plate is not heavily varnished and keeping the throttle plate from closing fully, causing an eventual relearn of the closed throttle position switch). A sticking valve or faulty valve body or sticking shift solenoid pack could also cause issues.


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## mmiller2002 (Sep 29, 2006)

Can anyone tell me the capacity of the transmission. i want to buy enough fluid to do a couple drain/fill cycles.

How much will drain out of the pan drain plug each time?

Thanks


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