# OIL ON SPARK PLUG



## baba (Jul 12, 2006)

I WAS CHANGING THE SPARK PLUG ON MY '97 540i AND ONE OF THE SPARK PLUGS HAS ENGINE OIL ON IT. CAN SOMEONE TELLS ME WHAT CAUSES THIS AND IF THIS IS A MAJOR PROBLEM. 
WHAT CAN I DO TO ELIMINATE THIS OIL FROM REACHING THE PLUG.
I NEED HELP, HELP AND HELP. THANKS


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

Well I am no BMW guy but I would guess the seal needs to be replaced.

I would assume on a BMW that it would cost an arm and a leg to replace too...lol


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## sweet3rdgen (Jun 9, 2006)

Oil on the plug is one of four things:
1) bad valve seal
2) blown head gasket
3) cracked head
4) bad piston ring


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

or if it's on the outside of the plug (more common), it could simply be a leaking valve cover gasket. DOHC engines are prone to doing that.


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

sweet3rdgen said:


> Oil on the plug is one of four things:
> 1) bad valve seal
> 2) blown head gasket
> 3) cracked head
> 4) bad piston ring


What about if you crank the engine and it spins with no compression after overheating? 
Oh BTW Hello everyone, this is my first post. Ima :newbie:


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

compression is ZERO?

burned hole in piston, severely blown head gasket, broken timing belt, or bent valve.


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

Well, after it overheated, I tried to put water in and 
it was pouring out of the thermostat area, then I tried to 
crank it and the engine would spin (Crank shaft), so I pulled
the plugs and all 3 on the backside were wet (oil).   So far I figured 
I would try to tear down myself only gotten as far as UIM and fuel rail.


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

A good used VQ30de should set you back <$500. Not too shabby if you ask me.


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

Jeff said:


> A good used VQ30de should set you back <$500. Not too shabby if you ask me.


Yeah, I was thinking how hard is it to pull a head. :balls: :jawdrop: then I started looking in to a total swap :thumbup: If anyone disagrees with this logic please give input.


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## Jeff (Oct 17, 2002)

I definitely wouldn't disagree...I think it would be best, then you can sell parts off of the current engine and most likely make the money back you spent getting the used engine.

Seriously.


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## sweet3rdgen (Jun 9, 2006)

The only downside to a used engine over a rebuild is that it is a used engine. It is worn and may have problems. A rebuild may be more expensive in the short view but may end up being the better choice in the long run. Plus you can build it better than stock.

If can get a used engine with, low miles, a guarantee, and proven history of maintenance, go for it.


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

Jeff said:


> I definitely wouldn't disagree...I think it would be best, then you can sell parts off of the current engine and most likely make the money back you spent getting the used engine.
> 
> Seriously.



Ahh revenue! Fleabay and paypunk issues, hmmm definitely enticing.  

Sweet3, I hear ya but I have 160+ on mine, I think retirement might be a better option,
no telling what would give out next. But alas, I am fairly new on the whole rebuild vs retire
issue, and other than you guys I have no one to give me decent scoop. The only mech I 
trusted, his shop burned down a year ago, and I lost track of him.


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## sweet3rdgen (Jun 9, 2006)

I am just trying to give you options to think about. I am not against a swap, but you should always be prepared for possible problems. Usually swaps go well.

I have done both, swaps and rebuilds, and prefer rebuilds due to the fact that I can build it to what I intend. Both have their good and bad points. A simple swap still leaves me having to do some work to bring up the performance, but the cost is less. rebuilds cost more but yield better results. Both can bring surprises, and unforeseen expenses.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it all works out.


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

Makes sense, guess I will pray about it and post the results.


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

given the history of your engine, I highly recommend against a rebuild of that engine. onc ethey're overheated that bad, you wind up spending a huge amount of money on repairs that wouldn't happen if you started with a decent engine to begin with.

If you want to revive it, I recommend buying another used high mileage engine that's still running, then send it to the shop for a rebuild. it should be a simple matter of pulling the heads, honing the block, and installing new rings and bearings. that will be cheaper overall than spending thousands on new pistons, de-warping the heads, milling the block, boring it out, etc etc etc.


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## g20George (Jul 27, 2006)

whats up every one Im new this forum thank you for having me. I have a 02 spec-v and a 1993.5 infiniti g20 as a daily driver. And I have the same question as baba I found oil on my sprark when I was changing them on my g20. before I change them the car was hesitent After I change them the car runs a little better not as hesitent and dosent smoke. Just wonder if some one can give some info on this. Thank you


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## dcarl320 (Jul 24, 2006)

Matt93SE said:


> given the history of your engine, I highly recommend against a rebuild of that engine. onc ethey're overheated that bad, you wind up spending a huge amount of money on repairs that wouldn't happen if you started with a decent engine to begin with.



Yeah, I'm with you... Anyone know of a good tuner mech in the Raleigh Area?? Im running short on space to do the swap, I may have to farm it out. My homeowners association is real picky about how much of my hobbies can be seen in my garage. And heaven forbid if I must leave something incomplete in the driveway. :loser:


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