# Tech questions on a 1986 300zx, (I wanna make it go FAST!!! hahah')



## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

I am looking at buying a 1986 300ZX nonturbo. Looks like it needs a little TLC, but no serious probs. Hoping none, if so I will be a Z owner, and a frequent vistor here. So... here are my questions.

1)Anyone know how to make air/fuel ratio adjustments with the ECU? Can it be done with the pesky O2 sensors? Can you flash program these? Or do you know where to get an ECU that can be adjusted. 

2)Getting error codes from the ECU, does it require having an OBD reader (error code reader). Or is there a way to get them to flash somewhere on the dash or something. 

3)Know of any online stores that have alot of performance parts for these old Z's. And I mean more than just K&N filtes. 

4)What year models of this car are identical to it. Is it 85-87, 84-86??? 

Thanks in advance


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

*Little more info.*

I will go ahead and post a little more to narrow the answers. I know (and have done before) about adjustable fuel regulators. But when adjusting your fuel levels, the O2 sensor will cause the computer to think you are running rich and will try and correct its self. Anyone know of any "dummy" O2 sensors, or another way past them? That is the rigged way. As for adjustable fuel maps and so fourth, all I have found was an ECU by HKS, which is way expensive at $1200. Thats more than I am willing to spend... Anyone know of any more products for fuel management?


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

I'm gonna be a jerk and suggest that you do a search for the info you need. This has been talked about before, very recently in fact.  

As far as a non-turbo goes, there isn't much you can do to make it seriously fast......


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

I already did, and these where the questions I couldnt find answers too. 

And looks like I will be owning this 86 nonturbo. And turning it into a turbo though.


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

MrFurious said:


> Anyone know how to make air/fuel ratio adjustments with the ECU?


There is an adjustment screw on the AFM. It's hidden behind a plug. You have to drill out the plug.


MrFurious said:


> Can it be done with the pesky O2 sensors?


Nope.


MrFurious said:


> Can you flash program these?


Yes. If you socket the ECU and have a programmer, you can do anything.


MrFurious said:


> Or do you know where to get an ECU that can be adjusted.


Jim Wolf Technology is the biggest name in Z31 ECUs. You may find some on e-bay. Stay away from the idiot on e-bay selling from Phoenix. He has a couple stolen programs and sells them as his own. He doesn't actually have any clue what he's doing.


MrFurious said:


> Getting error codes from the ECU, does it require having an OBD reader (error code reader).


You remove the passenger side kick panel, remove the ECU from it's location, and turn a screw to get the lights to flash.


MrFurious said:


> Or is there a way to get them to flash somewhere on the dash or something.


Easiest to just read them off the ECU. I've seen someone with a 200SX that made the LEDs remotely mounted on his dash. But more trouble than it's worth IMO.


MrFurious said:


> Know of any online stores that have alot of performance parts for these old Z's. And I mean more than just K&N filtes.


http://www.jimwolftechnology.com
http://www.amzperformance.com
http://www.zcarparts.com
just to name a few.


MrFurious said:


> What year models of this car are identical to it. Is it 85-87, 84-86???


How identical do you want to be? The z31 style 300ZX ran from 1984-1989. There were some minor and some major changes over the years.
http://www.az-zbum.com/faqs.shtml#buy3


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

AZ-ZBum said:


> How identical do you want to be? The z31 style 300ZX ran from 1984-1989. There were some minor and some major changes over the years.


I was wondering what years turbo kits & ECU would be able to be put on my car. 

and... Do yo know how to bypass, or do something with the O2 sensors so it wont think that the air/fuel ratio is off?

and thanks for the help


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

any year Z31 turbos are swapable, thanks! Just dunno about the ECUs... 
Thanks for the links too. They are helpfull. I guess I need to be a little more specific on my O2 sensor problem though. Seems to never be addressed anywhere I read on the net. 
My plan was to get an adjustable fuel regulator to get a little more fuel. (aftermarket ECUs are pricey) But when you do this your O2 sensor will notice the increase in fuel and will try and correct it by adjusting the injectors. Thus making the car run worse. I had this problem with another car. And new bikes have the same problem, but I know what bike toys to get to fix this. Just never can find the car products too.


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

what is wrong with your 02 sensor?

im betting you have the wrong p/n

auto stores dont know the diffrence, and there are a lot of diffrent part numbers for z31's


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Nothing wrong with it. Thats what its there for.


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

MrFurious said:


> Thanks for the links too. They are helpfull. I guess I need to be a little more specific on my O2 sensor problem though. Seems to never be addressed anywhere I read on the net.


??????????????


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

"My plan was to get an adjustable fuel regulator to get a little more fuel. But when you do this your O2 sensor will notice the increase in fuel and will try and correct it by adjusting the injectors. Thus making the car run worse."

^Thats my O2 sensor problem


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

oh,
the o2 sensor should not be a big killer on your reasoning, just get a good adjustable pressure regulator, and get a new o2 sensor.

however the stock fpr is fine untill about 275 rwhp, (from my personal exp) it is a rising rate from the factory, and rises 1psi per psi of boost. 

so at 10psi you are adding 10psi of fuel pressure.

the only reason you need an adjustable would be for obviously adjustability, and then for reliability. 

your other option is to crush your stock fpr and test it with a guage with the car running. and you can always get another regulator online and start over. i cant find an online writeup for crushing, but ill just type it here.

1.buy and install a fuel pressure guage underhood, after the fuel filter, before the fuel rail.

2. buy a nut that will slide over the vaccum nipple on the regulator, but is about 14mm in diameter.

3. with the car running at idle, slightly tap the nut with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver, going in circles. watch the fuel pressure while you do this! very important.

i suggest doing incremements of 2psi with trips around the block and timing adjustments in the middle.


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Yeah, I saw that. Where you could crush it to hinder the return. And I have a guage I could mount. But... I will spend a little extra cash for peace of mind. And when the car gets to knowing that it is running rich through the O2 sensor, it wont cause problems? I will see... I hope you are correct. 
I am still aways away from doing the turbo. But am trying to get all of my stuff in order. Dont want any major unfortunate suprises after I get it in. But looks like its been done quite a few times, so hoping all goes well. 
Do you know how much pressure you can get out of the stock turbo? And how much pressure the stock motor can take? With adjustable regulator and adjustable BOV, how much can one of these motor take?


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

if you keep it tuned, utilizing timing, fuel pressure, and plug gap the 02 should not prematurely foul out under sub 300rwhp 

the stock motor is very tough, 500rwhp has been done many times over, look up 
poster's jason84na2t (from that other z31 website whose link i am not allowed to post)for example, over 400rwhp with just fuel, turbo, intercooler.

the stock turbine from 84-87 makes useable boost to about 18psi if you have a good intercooler. however that is really pushing it.

my personal dyno results from my 85t was in the 290rwhp range, at 18psi, with an intercooler, exhaust, and a clipped and ported turbo. no engine or fuel mods.
that motor did not last very long to say the least.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Aceman85Turbo said:


> my personal dyno results from my 85t was in the 290rwhp range, at 18psi, with an intercooler, exhaust, and a clipped and ported turbo. no engine or fuel mods.
> that motor did not last very long to say the least.


Mine was in the 13s with about 300 on the crank (guesstimate), at 16 psi, no I/C, but also no exhaust (DP only) and with a fully stock turbo. Also the stock open diff. Drove it like that for 2 years straight. Knowing now what I do then, I/C and at least a better fuel pump would have been on the top of my list. 

Seized passenger side cam took it completely out of action, it ran til then with a partial rebuild including new headgaskets. Dunno why the cam seized, might be something to watch out for on other VG30s..


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Thanks alot for the imput so far. I will post some pics of it in a few days, with some progress pics in the future and stuff. Its lookin' rough now. 

I am hoping to get atleast 300hp out of it, and be able to daily drive it. I was thinking about increasing injector size with a fuel pump. Thats the reason for the "how much can it take" question. But I will prolly' stay with stock, for awhile atleast. Lookin' at some hoodscoops and venting to help keep the turbo charger cooler. I/C can be pricey, but may have to see if I can get one in my budget. I dont race, so no nead to go too far. I just like my stuff fast.


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

MrFurious said:


> Thanks alot for the imput so far. I will post some pics of it in a few days, with some progress pics in the future and stuff. Its lookin' rough now.
> 
> I am hoping to get atleast 300hp out of it, and be able to daily drive it. I was thinking about increasing injector size with a fuel pump. Thats the reason for the "how much can it take" question. But I will prolly' stay with stock, for awhile atleast. Lookin' at some hoodscoops and venting to help keep the turbo charger cooler. I/C can be pricey, but may have to see if I can get one in my budget. I dont race, so no nead to go too far. I just like my stuff fast.


Then you're not going to be able to do it reliably.

Cheap, fast, reliable. pick two cause they don't play well together.


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

i would order NGK plug wires on ebay, last i checked they were $20~

use spark plugs NGK # bcpr6e-11 and gap them at about .40

use only a nissan oem cap and rotor, all the american made ones are crap.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

MrFurious said:


> Mine has 175k on it. But the guy says the motor was rebuilt at 100k. He has been honest about everything, so I think it was. And looks clean for its age. So only 75k has been put on it sence then. Even though it is sputtering and missing, I expect it to still be strong. Doesnt smoke, or make noise.


You must stop and do the timing belt maintenance now as you're past due if the vehicle has 75k since the last rebuild or maintenance was performed. Stop spending money on anything else until the following is completed:

Buy only Nissan parts for the following:

Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner
Timing Belt Tensioner Stud
Timing Belt Tensioner Washer
Timing Belt Tensioner Lock-Washer
Timing Belt Tensioner Nut
Camshaft Oil Seals [x2]
Crankshaft Oil Seal [x1]
Rear Crankshaft Sprocket Plate
Distributer Cap
Rotor
Waterpump [This you may substitute with generic autostore brand, but not recommended.]

I have a parts list that I compiled of various Nissan parts used in maintaining and rebuilding a VG30ET fitting Non-W series engines here: http://tboz.no-ip.com:10000/text/Nissan Parts.htm

Use http://www.nissanparts.cc to purchase your Nissan brand parts at an affordable cost. Expect $150-200 for this maintenance. You will be good to go for another 60,000 miles. $200 per 60k is nothing to complain about, in fact, it's something to brag about, if anything. However, if you pay a mechanic to perform this maintenance for you, expect to pay anywhere from $600 to $1200.


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

THE BIG ONE said:


> You must stop and do the timing belt maintenance now as you're past due if the vehicle has 75k since the last rebuild or maintenance was performed. Stop spending money on anything else until the following is completed:
> 
> Buy only Nissan parts for the following:
> 
> ...


Very good post. Check your Rep points. :thumbup:


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Anyone ever had any luck with one of these? Looks like it should work. Works like the one I have on my bike. 

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?id=202&pageNum=1

APEXi S-AFC II 

~CONCEPT:
Piggyback Fuel Computer with 12 correction points in 200 RPM increments.
~CHARACTERISTICS:
Modifies air-flow meter signal (pressure signal in some vehicles) to optimize fuel-air ratio

This is more of what I have been looking for.


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Greddy makes one (part# 16401301), but no on-board display. Got to plug it in to a computer. But its only $120 vs $330. 

These should work, the 86 Z uses an AFM sensor.


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## Aceman85Turbo (Feb 22, 2004)

do not get an safc, look into a real engine management setup, something along the lines of haltech/microtech.

or do as i plan to and re program the stock computer using a romulator. the only weak side to this is it still uses stock eletronics.


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

But the Romulator wont work on my ECU. Can you put an 88-89 ECU on an 86?

Really, the APEXi looks ideal for what I am doing. Plus it has on-board controls.


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

I mean that is the best I can get for under a grand.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

Both the Greddy E-manage and Apex'i S-AFC will work on a Z31 providing you change the TPS to an automatic Z TPS - The automatics had an extra pigtail providing a variable potometer. However, you could do just as aceman said, and socket the ecu and reprogram it. I'm going true standalone [Haltech E11v2], not piggy back. Also, you should not concern yourself with these things until you do as I said above. Timing belt maintenance is your number one priority. kthxbai


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## dales86t (Nov 1, 2005)

there seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding with a few posts in this thread, so for the record and to save disputes, let me clarify them.

In most vehicles they have CHTS's as you know. But most countrys and people call them coolant temp sensors as thats what they really are, cylinder head temp sensor is just the commonly used name for them. I live in australia and needed a new CHTS (what i refer to them as) but could not find the part. i then asked for the same thing, just using the word coolant sensor, immediately i had the part i was after. both or you are right depending on where you live, and also for the record, my engine was stock and blew a head gasket at 150,000 kms, it gave me the chance to rebuild the whole engine, and upon rebuilding the engine, i can vouche for the bottom ends stregnth as the rods and crank looked the business, though i will never trust a stock piston for high HP (had several bad experiences in the past)

To the main question asked, SAFC from apex-i are a good tool for someone after a little bit of tunability under a smaller budget not looking for horsepower in high numbers. The idea of a SAFC is to trick the ecu into using different air fuel mixtures by intercepting the current standard information. They also allow you to use a larger than stock injector, but only allowing an additional 25% of your current injectors flow rate, example 200 cc stock injectors, with a SAFC you can run 250cc injectors. if you wish to add more boost, but don't wish to install a new ecu, than the SAFC is the way to keep the detonation bug away. Sometimes useful sometimes not, but at half the price of a standalone system, why bother?


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

dales86t said:


> there seems to be a bit of a misunderstanding with a few posts in this thread, so for the record and to save disputes, let me clarify them.
> 
> In most vehicles they have CHTS's as you know. But most countrys and people call them coolant temp sensors as thats what they really are, cylinder head temp sensor is just the commonly used name for them. I live in australia and needed a new CHTS (what i refer to them as) but could not find the part.


You are absolutely wrong. Cylinder Head Temperature Sensors and Coolant Temperature sensors are completely different. Some vehicles use the coolant temp sensor and have no CHTS. The Z31 has a CHTS in which the E.C.C.S. uses. A replacement coolant sensor is not what you'd want. The coolant sensor is located in the lower intake manifold, passenger side. The cylinder head temperature sensor is located towards the front of the driver's side head. 

Just because you asked for the wrong part, and someone in Australia was ignorant/stupid enough to give you the correct part, doesn't mean this is accurate or true. Generally, if you go into Nissan in the US, and ask for a coolant temp sensor, they'll give you a coolant temp sensor. The CHTS in no way has coolant flowing over it.
kthx

Oh... clearification for Zen:


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

dales86t said:


> To the main question asked, SAFC from apex-i are a good tool for someone after a little bit of tunability under a smaller budget not looking for horsepower in high numbers. The idea of a SAFC is to trick the ecu into using different air fuel mixtures by intercepting the current standard information. They also allow you to use a larger than stock injector, but only allowing an additional 25% of your current injectors flow rate, example 200 cc stock injectors, with a SAFC you can run 250cc injectors. if you wish to add more boost, but don't wish to install a new ecu, than the SAFC is the way to keep the detonation bug away.


They say it can go up to 50% fuel increase. I was looking at the SAFC-II though. But if you go one up in injector size, and put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it. Thats more than I will probably ever need. I probably wont even get a FPR actually. The SAFC-II i'm thinkin' will give me plenty. I hoping so.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

MrFurious said:


> They say it can go up to 50% fuel increase. I was looking at the SAFC-II though. But if you go one up in injector size, and put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it. Thats more than I will probably ever need. I probably wont even get a FPR actually. The SAFC-II i'm thinkin' will give me plenty. I hoping so.


You need to worry more about maitaining your vehicle, then after you do that, buy a piggyback, or socket the ECU, or go standalone. The big problem with piggybacks like the S-AFC and the E-manage is timing. Granted you can adjust it on the e-manage to a certain degree, you have no idea what timing you're running at. It's adjustable only in duty cycle increments, like the fuel map. You can get an 88+ ECU, socket it, and begin programming eeproms that are more exact. You can also program more detailed fuel and ignition maps based on airflow, and program new AFMs including the Cobra MAF, Lightning MAF, Z32 MAF, etc etc. Both piggy back systems adjust fuel maps from throttle vs rpm. To do this on a Z31 it's not difficult, however with a piggyback system, you're still limited to the amount of airflow the AFM can read (except the E-manage which can use the E-01's map sensor joined by a USB cable between the two computers [E-01 and E-Manage], but by that time, you've spent the same as a standalone system). The stock AFM will max around 320 hp. 


Get a throttle position sensor from an automatic Z31 NA or T. The standard transmission TPS are simply an on/off switch, which offer not variable POT. The automatic TPS has a pigtail harness featuring access to a variable POT. 
Cut the pigtail end from the EFI harness side of an auto TPS variable connector also (for ease of splicing into).
Buy a 5v Voltage regulator from radioshack (also buy a heatsink) That will run you about $2 [ http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...99&cp=&kw=voltage+regulator&parentPage=search ]








Wire via custom or OEM relay, ignition, etc 12v source to the voltage regulator. Wire the +5 output from the voltage regulator to the TPS via pigtail. Variable output of the TPS will the run to the piggyback
Viola, you have variable TPS signal from a car that has no stock variable TPS ecu signal... all for less than $10.


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

THE BIG ONE said:


> You need to take care of basic maintenance first, learn how things work, and then move to modification. Try thinking more first.


Very true!


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

I plan on doing maintenance. I know how to do maintenance. Just bought a load of replacement parts, and maintenance stuff. 

Anyone know some more steps, besides flushing the system with synthetic + filter, that may need to be taken when converting to synthetic? Does this car use 10w-30?

When changing TPS, you got to do all of that. ugh'. So I need the sensor and the connector socket off of the harness. And when I wire it to an acc line, I am basicly just providing power to it. And no doing any more wiring to the APEX-i or Greddy unit. It will use the stock wires to the ECU.?.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

MrFurious said:


> I plan on doing maintenance. I know how to do maintenance. Just bought a load of replacement parts, and maintenance stuff.
> 
> Anyone know some more steps, besides flushing the system with synthetic + filter, that may need to be taken when converting to synthetic? Does this car use 10w-30?
> 
> When changing TPS, you got to do all of that. ugh'. So I need the sensor and the connector socket off of the harness. And when I wire it to an acc line, I am basicly just providing power to it. And no doing any more wiring to the APEX-i or Greddy unit. It will use the stock wires to the ECU.?.


Yeah, the rest is just cutting/splicing wiring up to the Apexi or Greddy unit as they tell you to in the manual. Getting that sensor and supplying power to it is the only outside fabrication you need to do to make those units work. 5volt power to be exact, requiring that regulator and a heatsink. Click back a page or two to the timing belt post I've made. If you did not buy all of those components, buy them now before anything else.

That is all.


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

I'm about to Ban half a dozen people in this Z31 section if this bickering doesn't stop.. 

Members, Mods..doesn't matter..

Are we clear?



Do not delete this.. It is the TOPIC.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

myoung said:


> I'm about to Ban half a dozen people in this Z31 section if this bickering doesn't stop..
> 
> Members, Mods..doesn't matter..
> 
> ...


Fair enough.


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## ICP Sux0rZ! (Jan 10, 2005)

*salutes mike* Sir yes sir!



:thumbup:


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

Here's what inevitably will happen if you do not do as I said, and not buy those parts that I told you to buy. 


















Don't be an idiot and ignore my warning, or you can, and end up having to get a new block, new heads, and build it all over again.

[05:25PM] domdogg123: owned
[05:25PM] domdogg123: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/staylor3/LH-top-cyl2.jpg
[05:25PM] domdogg123: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/staylor3/bottom-lh-head.jpg
[07:06PM] THE_BIG_ONE: owned is right.


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

FYI: Because TBO didn't make it clear enough. That's the result of a snapped timing belt.


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

wuh'?... that from a snapped timing belt/chain? How can you burn up a motor after the timing belt snaps? The car wont even run without it. Maby if the guy was doin' like 150mph and left it in gear untill it stopped. 

And I didnt buy a timing chain. Nor do I plan to if the car runs fine after I am done. No chatter came from the timing chain area so I think there are plenty of miles left on it. I may replace it eventually. But not going to be one of the first things I do. After I do some mods to the motor I may get a beefy'r chain.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

MrFurious said:


> wuh'?... that from a snapped timing belt/chain? How can you burn up a motor after the timing belt snaps? The car wont even run without it. Maby if the guy was doin' like 150mph and left it in gear untill it stopped.


Jesus christ. You just proved my point. You have no business modifying a car when you can't even perform routine maintenance or understand what/why it works. 



MrFurious said:


> And I didnt buy a timing chain. Nor do I plan to if the car runs fine after I am done. No chatter came from the timing chain area so I think there are plenty of miles left on it. I may replace it eventually. But not going to be one of the first things I do. After I do some mods to the motor I may get a beefy'r chain.


You're fucking disgusting. It's ignorance like this that makes me want to puke. You must make that priority one. I thought I explained this thoroughly with the last few posts. And here you are making ignorant stupid statements like "burning an engine up by leaving it in gear". The transmission has nothing to do with this. You can be in neutral at idle and break your engine. You can be cruising at 1800 rpm @ 45 mph and ruin your engine. Your mods mean nothing when the timing belt breaks. We have no chain, it's a timing belt. We have what's known as an interferance engine. Should the belt break, your engine is done. End of story. There's very few people who have had a belt break and not ruin their engine. The valves will come in contact with the pistons. Usually this destruction results in damage to the heads themselves, as seen in the pictures, and the block. Also, you can't just replace the belt and think everything is fine. If the tensioner bearings seize, the belt snap, or skip teeth. If the tensioner stud breaks off, the same thing can happen. I told you to replace the tensioner, tensioner stud/nut/washers, belt, and oil seals for a reason. Not to waste my time or anyone elses. That's one of the most critical maintenance procedures on your vehicle, and you have no goddamn clue, nor do you care, and you're asking me how to install a fucking piggyback system. You're going to tell me that you're not going to buy the parts? That's fine, go fuck yourself.

Now you've proved I wasted my time typing up a list of timing belt parts you need to do immediately. I tried to be "civil" with you; however, you're a complete fucking idiot, just like the majority of the board. I give up. You have no business modifying a car that you can't even maintain. Seriously, wake up. "After my mods I may someday buy a timing belt." You're over 15k miles past due, I didn't tell you to do it for the hell of it or as a "suggestion". I used the words must, and "DO" for a reason. 

You're a fucking waste of life.

I'm done here. Fuck this stupidity.

Goodbye.


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## OK85ZX (Jul 18, 2004)

I like cheese


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

Can you believe this guy? Wish a decent conversation could be had with him. I lived in Indian Harbor Bch (basicly Melbourne) for a while. And just got back from there a little while ago. I thought we would be friends. :wtf: :kiss:


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## MrFurious (Oct 30, 2005)

and I thought there would be enough clearence in the cumbustion chamber so that the pistons could never come in contact with the valves, no matter what.


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

MrFurious said:


> and I thought there would be enough clearence in the cumbustion chamber so that the pistons could never come in contact with the valves, no matter what.


The engine is interferance, I said that. If it were non-interferance, I would not have harped about doing this immediately above anything else. IE: ABOVE ANY OTHER THING YOU BUY. Why would I do that? Explain to me why I would possibly push changing those components if it didn't matter? Also, I posted pictures of damage, you still didn't understand. I mean, I'm done here on this board, and I'm done with you. I tried helping you, but they're right, it's not possible. You people are lost and clueless. You have no desire to learn, nor do you listen to what's said. You can't even open the factory service manuals that are hosted for free on my website or z31.com or car-fiche.com and read about the vehicle. You can't buy a $12 shit haynes manual from your autoparts store. I made over 5 posts about the timing belt maintenance, and you still don't comprehend. There's nothing more left to do. You're lost. At some point your belt will break, and you'll come back crying, like every other moron who does the same shit, about how your engine is destroyed and you need a "new one". You will never learn, nor do you want to. That is ignorance defined. 

kthx bai bai..


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## dales86t (Nov 1, 2005)

with the apexi unit, well, no 50 percent oversided injectors are a tad too large for a stock ecu, at 25% with the apexi "tricking" the ecus readings it'd be running bad enough. 

HOW ever, your after a daily driver correct? Well an advantage to getting the full works out of a standalone ecu, you can gain much much more ecconomy too, which is what you'd be after with a daily driver correct? So take your mind off the SAFC unit for the meantime, and put the money back in your pocket, save a little more, and reap the benifits, also if you plan to run more modifications on your car down the track, this part is out of the way and saves you having to do it later.

BTW: nice engine pics TBO, was that your engine? must say, its pretty annoying when your valves collide with your pistons


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## THE BIG ONE (Oct 30, 2005)

dales86t said:


> BTW: nice engine pics TBO, was that your engine? must say, its pretty annoying when your valves collide with your pistons


The broken heads and pistons? No. I'm not a fucktard. I've never had a timing belt break on any of my cars. That was some one from the board who did the same thing as this tard.

The engine on the stand in front of the gray car is my engine.
bbq


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

MrFurious said:


> Can you believe this guy? Wish a decent conversation could be had with him. I lived in Indian Harbor Bch (basicly Melbourne) for a while. And just got back from there a little while ago. I thought we would be friends. :wtf: :kiss:


BIG ONE... BANNED,,, he was given half a dozen chances to be a postive member.. maybe once he does a little growing up he can come back and have adult conversations..

He certainly lived up to being a BIG ONE..


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## ICP Sux0rZ! (Jan 10, 2005)

acabtp said:


> watch... here comes the spite ban


yep and you deserve it to


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## acabtp (Oct 31, 2005)

ICP Sux0rZ! said:


> yep and you deserve it to


'too'... as in 'also'


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## ICP Sux0rZ! (Jan 10, 2005)

acabtp said:


> 'too'... as in 'also'


oh jesus f---ing christ its the internet not everyone takes their time to spell check or look at what they type


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## OK85ZX (Jul 18, 2004)

ICP Sux0rZ! said:


> yep and you deserve it to



I swear you are the biggest leg humper I've ever seen... and you're humping other guys legs... get off the mods cock already


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## ICP Sux0rZ! (Jan 10, 2005)

OK85ZX said:


> I swear you are the biggest leg humper I've ever seen... and you're humping other guys legs... get off the mods cock already


its not my fault i agree with the rules set forth by the mods, or that i show others respect when trying to help them

you all do deserve whatever punishment they give you, you are all assholes


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

OK85ZX said:


> I swear you are the biggest leg humper I've ever seen... and you're humping other guys legs... get off the mods cock already



Guess "last warning" is hard to understand...

Bye....


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

acabtp said:


> you're an f'n **** dude. he did give that guy all the info he needed. the guy continued to be an idiot, and had it coming. quit being such a vagina.


You're so well spoken..


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

85NA2T said:


> ### **** @@@@@@, but ~~~~ **** &&&&&&&&& too... if you give &&&&&&&& too much, they'll @@@@ everywhere... you had me at ~~~~ @@@@ !!!!!!!...
> 
> 
> Get off the mods ****.
> ...


You're a real good example of that board (z31.com).

So lets recap if you are the norm of that board. Your action remind me of.....The Honda/Acura boards. 

*Way to set the bar and recruit members!* :thumbup: 

Personal note, 
It's sad when fellow Z guys can't agree and act civilized on any boards.


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