# Replacing Front Brakes on 99 Nissan Sentra?



## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Has anyone done a how-to write up on replacing the front brakes on a 99 Sentra? 

I have never done a brake job myself before, but I want to learn. I am going to pick up one of those manuals that show you how to do everything, and have a buddy help me who knows what he is doing. 

For rotors, should I get the basic ones from the auto store, or should I pay a little more and get some drilled/slotted ones? My car is a DD so would I even need those?


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## xomiax (Jul 13, 2006)

I just did mine today so you are in luck!
1. Remove Hubcap, use a screwdriver or the prybar from your jack set. Make sure not to break any brackets on the hubcap.
2. Unscrew the lugnuts, I usually do opposites, So say top, bottom, left, then right.
3. Unscrew the two nuts holding the calipers, I think they are size 14, maybe 16 or so.
4. Grab some wire or cord and string the caliper assembly up to the coil so it does not hang down. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE HOSE AS IT COULD DAMAGE IT!
5. You will see the pads then, they should pop right out of each side. Pull them out and check their wear and make sure its even, or else you might have other problems.
6. On the back of the wheel assembly there are two screws holding in the pad assembly, unscrew them and pull it off.
7. Now you can replace your rotor. Pull off the old one and if it is stuck give it a tap with a hammer.
8. Put your new rotor in the place of the old.
9. Put the pad assembly back on by installing the two bolts back on. 
10. Grease up the brackets that hold the pads in, this will keep your car from screeching. Use brake grease from autozone, its only $1.19.
11. Put the new pads in, the rough side on each faces the rotor.
12. Now look at the caliper, on it you will see a cylinder, this is what pushes your brakes against the rotor. Untie the caliper from the coil and set it on top of the wheel assembly.
13. Take the cap off of your brake fluid resivoir, its in the back right of the engine compartment near the fuel filter.
14. Grab some huge pliers or one of those clamps that closes by screwing it, and push the cylinder back into the caliper. Make sure it is all the way in.
15. Put your caliper back on the pads and screw in the two bolts holding it in place, make sure the rubber washers are lined up before you start screwing.
16. Put your wheel back on, tighten the lug nuts.
17. Do steps 1-16 on the other side.
18. So you have your new pads and rotors in, but you are not done yet. Turn your car on.
19. Make sure your hood is open enough so that you can still see the brake fluid reservoir and press the brake at the same time.
20. Make sure your brake fluid is full.
21. While watching the fluid, tap the brake lightly, the level should drop when you do this.
22. When it drops below full, top it off.
23. Repeat steps 21 and 22 until the level stops dropping.
24. Screw the brake fluid reservoir back on. Now you are done!
Happy stopping!
Xomiax


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Do you think someone with little experience working on cars could do this themsleves? How many hours should it take? 

Can you give me a list of tools I would need? I didn't bring anything with me when I moved.

I have done a lot of work on my old truck, but that was a old 78 Chevy, a little different, never worked with disc brakes.


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## xomiax (Jul 13, 2006)

Things needed:
1. Metric socket set
2. A big C clamp or massive pliers
3. Your jack from your trunk
4. A jackstand
5. New pads and rotors
6. Brake grease
7. Cord or a bungee
8. Brake fluid
9. A crescent (adjustable) wrench

Yeah if you have an experience around cars you can do it, just make sure you follow the steps. If you mess up the last part and let your brake fluid get too low, you'll have to bleed them.
I am a novice mechanic and it took me about 30 mins a side.
Its a good thing to know how to do because you save alot of money doing it yourself.
Good luck.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

What work have you done?
If you have replaced Drum brake shoes then IMHO you can do the 
discs.
Download the Factory Service Manual, FSM, for your car.
If you can take your old pads in when you buy new ones and make sure they Match up in the store.
Minium Brake pad lining thicknes is usualy spec'd at 2 mm (some cars are 1mm) vs about 10mm new.
If you are just replacing the pads you can rotate the caliper by removing one 12 mm bolt, and remove the pads, and rotate it back with new pads in place after pushing back the piston.
Make sure the caliper slides bake and forth.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

from the B14 FSM


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)




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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Note the sliding pins numbered 1 in the Drawing
If replacing the caliper or rotor note the Main attachment bolt to the Spindle assy is not shown, number 13 attaches to the torque plate and this does not need to be removed.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)




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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

I am going to attempt this next week, thanks guys.

Should I spend the extra money and get drilled/slotted rotors? It's a DD not sure if I really need them.


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

PhxJosh said:


> I am going to attempt this next week, thanks guys.
> 
> Should I spend the extra money and get drilled/slotted rotors? It's a DD not sure if I really need them.


It really depends on where you get your parts. I switched to slotted rotors since they were cheaper than OE units. Then again, there are OE replacement units (not from Nissan) that are cheaper as well. 
For a daily driver, i'd stick with the stock setup, unless you aggressively drive the car or you plan to do some weekend racing.
Do note that slotted rotors will wear out the pads a bit sooner due to the edges from each slit.
You don't really need drilled ones if you're not planning on doing any time attacks or anything of that nature.
Make sure you do the brake bedding procedure after installation of new rotors and pads. Don't just go out and stomp on them for the first few miles.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

azkicker0027 said:


> It really depends on where you get your parts. I switched to slotted rotors since they were cheaper than OE units. Then again, there are OE replacement units (not from Nissan) that are cheaper as well.
> For a daily driver, i'd stick with the stock setup, unless you aggressively drive the car or you plan to do some weekend racing.
> Do note that slotted rotors will wear out the pads a bit sooner due to the edges from each slit.
> You don't really need drilled ones if you're not planning on doing any time attacks or anything of that nature.
> Make sure you do the brake bedding procedure after installation of new rotors and pads. Don't just go out and stomp on them for the first few miles.


I looked online how to wear in the brakes, so I will do that right away. Are basic semi-matalic pads from autozone alright? $18.


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## dabarrelman (Jul 10, 2008)

Anyone have pics of the whole procedure?
I bought the pads and rotors and I'm planning to do it sometime this weekend.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

I got a buddy to help me out, he has done rotors a few times before, he says he'll just help me with it for some beer. 

I am getting the parts tomorrow, any rec's for parts, or should I just go with the cheapest ones from autozone?


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

http://www.nissanforums.com/b14-95-99-chassis/149877-diy-98-sentra-front-brake-pads.html

A step-by-step guide with pictures I just found.


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## nemesismachine (Jan 6, 2009)

xomiax, why are you bleeding brakes for a pad change? Thats unnecessary. As long as nothing is punctured, you are wasting your time. The brakes are a sealed system, and do not need to be bled unless you change the caliper.


To those that are nervous about it, front brakes take about 15 minutes to change once the car is in the air (or on a jack or jackstands, for that matter). 2 bolts come off, the caliper slides off, the rotor comes off, then do it all in reverse with new parts. You dont need a friend with beer to do it, or ask a million questions about it. A 15mm wrench, a jack, and a 4 way are all the tools you should need.


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