# CV Axle install procedure



## hatssold (Apr 2, 2012)

Hey guys, fella with the '97 Nissan 200sx Se-R again.


I had some questions about installing the new axle in...

1) After an search inquiry, my results suggested that in the transaxle hole where the half-shaft goes in, there is a groove where the c-clip fits in. Is this true?

2) How can I tell the axle is seated properly? Will the axle make a clicking sound when seated in? 

3) What is the most preferred method of removing components when actually trying to get to the axle? Do you separate the steering knuckle from the control arm by removing the lower ball joint? Detach tie rod ball joint? Remove the 2 strut bolts?


If this 2nd installation goes well, I'll do a write-up for it 




Many thanks, guys. I do apologize to the more senior members if you already answered these questions elsewhere.


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## dreamteam (Jul 29, 2005)

Hey Hatss, You've got a lot of viewers, no answerers.
I took a look at your pics, seems like things are not lining up correctly.
Whenever you buy parts, be sure to compare the old ones before you leave them for core.
Now, as far as the axle install, I strongly recommend you get a manual. (service book)
That said, here is what works for me.
Jack and block the front end.
Remove the front wheels.
Loosen the axle nut.
Remove the brake calipers.
Disconnect the tie rod end.
Rotate the steering knuckle and slide the axle out of the hub.
Be sure you remove the axle nut first.
If the axle does not move freely, slightly tap it with a hammer.
If it still does not move, use a block of wood to cushion the blow.
Now that you have the hub end of the axle out, use a pry bar or suitable tool to remove the axle from the transmission. DO NOT pull on the axle, this will separate the CV joint.
At this point you are going to loose some tranny fluid. Be sure to replace it.
When installing the new axle, take a look at the spring clip on the tranny end.
The open end of this spring clip should be facing the ground.(pointing down) It wouldn't hurt to put some oil on this end before installing.
Try to keep the axle level and push it straight in to the tranny.
You should feel and hear it snap in.
IF it does not go in, tap on the end of the axle with a hammer. Keep the axle straight.
If it still does not seat, remove it and check the clip and/or splines for damage.
You may also try slightly turning the axle while installing.
With the axle now seated in the tranny, rotate the steering knuckle until you can line up the drive splines. Slide the axle through the hub, install the nut, protector and cotter key.
Reconnect the tie rod and brakes.
( Yes, you will need to remove the bottom strut bolts and brake rotors for this procedure.
be sure to reconnect them. If I left anything out, let me know.)


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

*i'd only add a few things to this*



> Remove the brake calipers.


*i've done this at least 4 times, and I've never had to remove the brake calipers.*



> Rotate the steering knuckle and slide the axle out of the hub.


*I was never able to get the axle out of the hub at this point. There's not enough hub movement to allow you to back the axle out. I've always had to remove the lower control arm, which has always been the worst part of the entire process. you'll need a picklefork (available for rent at autozone) to get the control arm off, and a lot of patience, and possibly a 2nd jack to get the control arm back on.*



> Now that you have the hub end of the axle out, use a pry bar or suitable tool to remove the axle from the transmission. DO NOT pull on the axle, this will separate the CV joint.


*I would add here that there is a circular spring clip just larger than the axle shaft that holds it in. you need the prybar to put enough tension on the axle to make that spring collapse enough to slide it out. If you don't know what i'm talking about, you will when you see it. I just thought I'd mention this so you knew why you were prying it--it's not just stuck in there; it's being held in.*



> Reconnect the tie rod and brakes.
> ( Yes, you will need to remove the bottom strut bolts and brake rotors for this procedure.
> be sure to reconnect them. If I left anything out, let me know.)


*Removing the bottom strut bolts is another way of doing it so that you don't have to remove the lower control arm. I've never tried it myself, and it's not the method used in the FSM or the Haynes manual, but I guess it works. I've just heard you need a tool to collapse the springs so you don't hurt yourself when you take it off,and you might need a realignment afterward. not sure about the spring collapser, but a realignment seems definitely imminent. take my perspective for what you paid for it *


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> Removing the bottom strut bolts is another way of doing it so that you don't have to remove the lower control arm. I've never tried it myself, and it's not the method used in the FSM or the Haynes manual, but I guess it works. I've just heard you need a tool to collapse the springs so you don't hurt yourself when you take it off,and you might need a realignment afterward. not sure about the spring collapser, but a realignment seems definitely imminent.


The bottom strut bolt method works ok, at least for me it did. Didn't need to compress the springs. Still a bit of a tight fit and all, but as long as you don't have a 'camber kit' installed (offset bolts), I don't see any reason to get an alignment afterward since you aren't changing anything alignment related (unless you bend something!). Couldn't hurt...but...ya know how that goes...


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## que4dog (Jan 29, 2013)

I planning on starting this project this week. Just need some clarification. If I remove the lower strut bolts, I do not have to remove the lower control arm or the tie rod end?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

It's a crap shoot as to whether or not you'll have enough play to get the axle out or not.
If the axle comes out and the new one goes in, then no, don't have to take them out.
If it doesn't, then you'll have to pull one or the other or both.


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## que4dog (Jan 29, 2013)

jdg said:


> It's a crap shoot as to whether or not you'll have enough play to get the axle out or not.
> If the axle comes out and the new one goes in, then no, don't have to take them out.
> If it doesn't, then you'll have to pull one or the other or both.


Thanks for the quick response. I'm in the process of ordering the driver & passenger complete axle shafts for a 1996 Sentra Auto. Do I order Shaft for ABS or Non-ABS?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

que4dog said:


> Thanks for the quick response. I'm in the process of ordering the driver & passenger complete axle shafts for a 1996 Sentra Auto. Do I order Shaft for ABS or Non-ABS?


The difference between the two is that the "ABS" axle will have the tone gear (aka reluctance gear") for the ABS system pressed on the outboard CV joint. The question is, do you have anti-lock brake or not? That will dictate which axle you need.


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## que4dog (Jan 29, 2013)

smj999smj said:


> The difference between the two is that the "ABS" axle will have the tone gear (aka reluctance gear") for the ABS system pressed on the outboard CV joint. The question is, do you have anti-lock brake or not? That will dictate which axle you need.


I attached pictures of the Axles. Am I correct that they are NON-ABS?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Those are non-ABS axles.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

How's everyone doing? Just did my passenger side axle. Now my steering wheel is crooked. To drive straight, I need to turn it about 2 inches to the right. 

I followed the procedure in the manual - unscrew the axle nut, unbolt the struts, hammer the axle to loosen it, take off the brake line clip then pull off the knuckle. I did not support the knuckle with anything while prying and installing the new axle. As I understand it, stock struts do not have camber alignment. Or does it?

Outer tie rod replace, inner tie rod driver's side replace when I got 4 new tires almost 2 years ago, alignment was done as well.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I usually don't disconnect the strut nor the tie rod from the knuckle; rather, I disconnect the ball joint from the bottom of the steering knuckle, turn the wheel, and pull the strut/knuckle assy. outward while pulling the outer joint shaft out of the knuckle. This usually keeps alignment issues from happening. It's hard to say exactly what happened in your case, but it does sound like the toe was affected. It the outer tie rod was loosened and turned, it would make sense that the steering wheel would be off. My only suggestion would be to double-check your work and if you find nothing wrong, have a wheel alignment performed.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I'll check. I did not loosen the tie rod end. But i did not check if it was tight too. 
I was afraid someone will suggest alignment. I have something against 4 wheel alignment job when there is only 2 wheels that can be aligned in our cars.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Jopet said:


> I'll check. I did not loosen the tie rod end. But i did not check if it was tight too.
> I was afraid someone will suggest alignment. I have something against 4 wheel alignment job when there is only 2 wheels that can be aligned in our cars.


Actually, the rear wheels can be adjusted with aftermarket shims that install behind the rear spindles. Most modern alignment machines cover this process during the alignment. Problem is most alignment techs don't want to do it because it's extra work or customers won't have it done because it's extra cost applied to the alignment. This image will show what these shims look like:

http://media.corrado-club.ca/mods/images/alignment/alignment004.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...US8x07d3iZr9pWUGzuCEzbbr0jrnvgqcIwaAn7f8P8HAQ

Even in cases where the rear suspension cannot be adjusted, it is still better to get a four-wheel alignment because the alignment machine will take into consideration of the thrust angle during the alignment.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

turns out, the top bolt of the strut can move around. I guess the struts were replaced before with ones that camber could be adjusted. 
Oh well, time to go to an alignment shop. TY for the help!!


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