# Issues with a 1997 Nissan Altima hesitating and stalling



## 24kmami (Oct 2, 2005)

I am new to the forum so please bare with me. I drive a 1997 Nissan Altima and it has 60K original miles on it. The car has not had any major work done just maintenance like oil changes every 3,000 miles (I am not the original owner) and tune ups.

The other day I was stopped at a red light and the car's rpms kept fluctuating drastically from 0-1,000 and it seems like the car wanted to cut out but didn't. The problem seemed to have went away but I took it to my mechanic anyway. He asked did the check engine light come on and I said no. He drove the car and off course it ran like an angel. (This was Friday) Well Friday night it finally went all the way and stalled. When it stalled it didn't start up right away but if I wait about 1-3 minutes it starts up like nothing is wrong. Yesterday I took it to Midas and they said until the car breaks down there is nothing we can do. (GREAT!!! considering I have a 3 year old) Well sure enough 2 blocks down the car broke down. I got it towed right to Midas and the stupid car started up with no issue. (what is up with this) The assistant mgr said sorry can't help you and I really don't want to even begin to work on the car. He said take it to the dealer. The car only seems to have an issue when it is warm. No one can seem to help me. Everyone assumes it is an ignition to a fuel problem but when I called Nissan they said it could be as simple as a fuel filter. Can anyone help me as I am a single mom and can't afford to pay these mechanics 1000 in labor alone. I would appreciate it.


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## Kencapel (Nov 5, 2004)

24kmami said:


> I am new to the forum so please bare with me. I drive a 1997 Nissan Altima and it has 60K original miles on it. The car has not had any major work done just maintenance like oil changes every 3,000 miles (I am not the original owner) and tune ups.
> 
> The other day I was stopped at a red light and the car's rpms kept fluctuating drastically from 0-1,000 and it seems like the car wanted to cut out but didn't. The problem seemed to have went away but I took it to my mechanic anyway. He asked did the check engine light come on and I said no. He drove the car and off course it ran like an angel. (This was Friday) Well Friday night it finally went all the way and stalled. When it stalled it didn't start up right away but if I wait about 1-3 minutes it starts up like nothing is wrong. Yesterday I took it to Midas and they said until the car breaks down there is nothing we can do. (GREAT!!! considering I have a 3 year old) Well sure enough 2 blocks down the car broke down. I got it towed right to Midas and the stupid car started up with no issue. (what is up with this) The assistant mgr said sorry can't help you and I really don't want to even begin to work on the car. He said take it to the dealer. The car only seems to have an issue when it is warm. No one can seem to help me. Everyone assumes it is an ignition to a fuel problem but when I called Nissan they said it could be as simple as a fuel filter. Can anyone help me as I am a single mom and can't afford to pay these mechanics 1000 in labor alone. I would appreciate it.



you too?...yea I just posted the same reply because mine is doing the same thing yours is....here go to this link http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=106240


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

24kmami said:


> I am new to the forum so please bare with me. I drive a 1997 Nissan Altima and it has 60K original miles on it. The car has not had any major work done just maintenance like oil changes every 3,000 miles (I am not the original owner) and tune ups.
> 
> The other day I was stopped at a red light and the car's rpms kept fluctuating drastically from 0-1,000 and it seems like the car wanted to cut out but didn't. The problem seemed to have went away but I took it to my mechanic anyway. He asked did the check engine light come on and I said no. He drove the car and off course it ran like an angel. (This was Friday) Well Friday night it finally went all the way and stalled. When it stalled it didn't start up right away but if I wait about 1-3 minutes it starts up like nothing is wrong. Yesterday I took it to Midas and they said until the car breaks down there is nothing we can do. (GREAT!!! considering I have a 3 year old) Well sure enough 2 blocks down the car broke down. I got it towed right to Midas and the stupid car started up with no issue. (what is up with this) The assistant mgr said sorry can't help you and I really don't want to even begin to work on the car. He said take it to the dealer. The car only seems to have an issue when it is warm. No one can seem to help me. Everyone assumes it is an ignition to a fuel problem but when I called Nissan they said it could be as simple as a fuel filter. Can anyone help me as I am a single mom and can't afford to pay these mechanics 1000 in labor alone. I would appreciate it.



Yup it sounds like your distributor is bad. If you can take the rotor off and thge distributor cap off you might see it coated with oil. If this is the case you need to get a new distributor, deal part only. Plus don't tray to save a couple of buck and go with either a after market or rebuilt. Too kany times they fail out after 2-3 weeks. Total cost is $500-700 depending where you take it.


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## 94altimase (Sep 3, 2005)

ITS YOUR FUEL INJETOR SEALS! ! !  I had that same problems and i changed out my o-rings cause one of them was leaking and problem solved it idled perfect and when i came to stop lights it didn't seem like it was gonna shut off anymore. i spent about 10.00 from nissan for all of the seals the lower and upper seals.


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## thatsmybaby (Oct 4, 2005)

Hi All -

This is my first post (just joined this morning). I've searched the forum quite a bit trying to find answer to my problem. It's somewhat similar to the one above, however, it does differ a little bit.

Yesterday, my car started hestitating as I was going up a minor incline. I got on a level street and she calmed down a bit. Went up another minor incline and she started bucking violently and altogether cut off. Once she cut off, the power steering was done (I could barely turn the wheel), the brakes were extremely tight (felt like they were stuck) and the car basically just died. However, the radio, blinkers, wipers and automatic windows worked just fine. At the time, I had between 1/4 and half a tank of gas...plenty (at least I thought so). Called AAA, had it towed. Here's where it gets interesting.

When the folks at the garage saw it (the next morning), they said that the gas gauge was on 'E'. I know for a fact that it wasn't (between the time it died and was towed). They told me that they had to put gas in the car in order to do a test run. The guy went on to say that my fuel indicator (whatever that thing is called) that's located in my gas tank, might be bad. Meaning, I might have less gas than what's reported by the gas gauge. I wasn't and still am not buying that one. So, they tell me that they can't reproduce the problem. They thought it was the altenator, but it didn't appear to that (never got a reason why).

I get the car back today and low and behold, as I'm going up another incline, she starts bucking just like before, nearly cuts off until I get to level ground. Get to the same part of town where she cut off before and she cut off again. This time I waited about 15 seconds, started her right up and was on my way. I tried to listen to see if I heard the fuel pump and I couldn't tell if I heard it or not since my died right in the middle of a busy intersection. :-( 

*Can someone PLEASE tell me what's wrong with my car?!?!?!? * I've had her since she was 11k miles old (had her 9 years) and now she's just shy of 120k. It's a 1995 Nissan Altima....that's my baby.  

From what I gather, they did not check the fuel filter or drop the tank to check the fuel pump. From my understanding, they ran up/down a *level * interstate and let her sit there a while to see if she got "too hot" (not sure why they did this). I filled up the tank and will be personally taking it back downd (local garage) the in the morning and will sit and watch what they do. *Is there anything you can recommend that I tell them to check. *


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## jserrano (Oct 27, 2004)

-thatsmybaby. It definitely sounds like a fuel pump issue to me. If the fuel filter, fuel pump strainer, or the fuel pump itself were weak, then you would barely be passing fuel through the system. The problem would be more pronounced while trying to "push" (pump) fuel upwards on an incline.

One quick test they can do is,

1. Connect a fuel pressure gauge inline to the fuel rail.
2. Check the static fuel pressure with and without the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose connected. Compare to specs.
3. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
4. Work the fuel pressure gauge around the hood so you can see it while you...
5. Drive the car around and monitor the fuel pressure. Place extra attention to the point of failure during the incline. 

If the pressure drops below 34 psi then you have an issue with the fuel system.


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## thatsmybaby (Oct 4, 2005)

JSerrano - thanks so much for the reply. I spent the better part of my morning today jerking and hesitating about town. I went to Auto Zone to see if they can pull codes (check engine light came on) and they can't pull codes for a 1995 model car (just 1996 and above). While there, I did have them check the altenator (just in case) and it was fine at 13.85. I also purchased a new fuel filter so that I could have it put on while at the garage. Went to the garage, he put on the fuel filter and for about 30 seconds, she purred like a kitten...the 31st second, she started jerking and sputtering as usual. The only difference this time was that she didn't completely loose power. As I was sputtering back to the garage the CEL (check engine light) came on and stayed on. Got to the garage, the ran the code and said it was the mass airflow sensor. At this point it could be purple elves in my engine and I wouldn't know the difference. Do you know if the mass airflow sensor could be causing this? One more quick question...if the fuel pump is causing the problem, how is that I am able to start the car after she cuts off. I wait about 10-15 seconds and she runs just fine. Any ideas?


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## jserrano (Oct 27, 2004)

The fuel pump could be reaching the end of it's life. At that point, it could work fine for a while then go bad again. That is why a fuel pressure tester and dynamically testing the car will help you see if that is the case.

The MAF can definitely give you the same symptoms. MAF are known to go intermittent. Mainly because of cold solder joints, loose terminals, or hot wire contamination. Mechanics would sometimes tap on the housing while monitoring the car's computer and check for a reading change. You could do something like connect a voltmeter to the MAF and check the static reading. Tap on the MAF housing and see if it changes. Slowly raise the throttle and check that the MAF voltage always  increases linearly. Any voltage dips or failure to rise while throttling up puts the MAF as suspect.


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## 24kmami (Oct 2, 2005)

OK - Well my car has been towed to the shop four times this week because the car would not do it when the mechanic had it until today! The car finally stalled and they said it is your MAF sensor. I drove it home - it seems to drive better but I am still having anxiety. I will drive it this weekend and see how it works - pls keep your fingers crossed mine sure the hell are. Keep you all posted..... Thx for your help!


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## thatsmybaby (Oct 4, 2005)

Just wanted to give a quick update on what's been happening with the car. Got the MAF (mass airflow sensor) replaced and she runs like a dream. I've been still been a little anxious when she goes up inclines or when I accelerate (usually that's when she would cut off) but she does just fine. Actually, it seems as if she runs a lot smoother now than before. So, to sum it all up, I got a new MAF and that solved the problem for me. Thanks for all of the suggestions.


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## Cooperman (May 18, 2005)

thatsmybaby - I had similar issues a few months back and eventually found it was the MAF too! Glad you sorted it out! I replaced my MAF with one I found at a parts yard for $120 and my car's been running great now for 2-3 months.


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## weekendsailor (Oct 28, 2005)

*distributor seals can cause problems with oil leakage*

Here's what just happened to me and my '97 Altima.

The car was running fine on a Saturday afternoon in
town. At a light it suddenly started 'jumping' (engine),
the tach was bouncing all over the place. I got the car
off the street within 3 or 4 minutes (had been trying
to get nearer home) and then it died.

The 'verdict' ....

The distributor in my Altima's 4-cylinder engine is
horizontal. The high-tension 'boots' on the wires on
the distributor cap have molded-in 90 degree bends
(that's what you see coming out of the rubber cover)
but the distributor itself is horizontal.

Problem ... with a horizontal mount gravity doesn't
help to keep oil (from within the engine) from leaking
into the distributor housing.

After some serious pain-in-the-pocketbook here's
what I learned from the folks at the Goodyear store
(they seem honest and their prices are not quite as
astronomical as at the dealer's).

- seals in the distributor had gone bad after 9 years
(I have a very early '97 year model Altima) and
engine oil had gotten into the distributor housing.
That required a new distributor.

- it isn't clear if it was a direct result or not but the
high Voltage coil was also suspect. Instead of
about 30 kVolts it was putting out about 20 kV.
Another new part.

- changed out the plug wires (had never been done)

- replaced the Bosch 'Platinum' plugs that I'd put
in at about 45,000 miles with NGK 'standard'
plugs. The Goodyear guys say it took them a
long time to learn it but they now believe it's
best to stay with the Japanese plugs for Japanese
designed cars. They don't know what but they
say there appears sometime different in the
Bosch platinum plugs that has caused a lot of
problems. In my case .... 2 of the 4 Bosch plugs
looked half-way OK ... the other 2 looked terrible
as though there was oil leakage (I change the
oil & filter fanatically and have never seen any
sign of oil burning).

Some hundred dollars later and my Altima is
back on the road .... seems to be running fine.

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LONDONDERRY said:


> Yup it sounds like your distributor is bad. If you can take the rotor off and thge distributor cap off you might see it coated with oil. If this is the case you need to get a new distributor, deal part only. Plus don't tray to save a couple of buck and go with either a after market or rebuilt. Too kany times they fail out after 2-3 weeks. Total cost is $500-700 depending where you take it.


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