# 1997 Pathfinder abs light/battery drain



## ctm2692 (Apr 19, 2011)

Over the past month my Pathfinder's ABS light has been coming on randomly accompanied with a noticeable buzzing sound. Twice now I have gone to start it and it won't even turn over or make any noise. This seems to only happen when the ABS light/noise is occurring. I checked all accessories and lights both times and nothing has been on. I have also checked all fuses related to my anti-lock brake system and none of them are blown. Any suggestions?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

If you've got a problem with the battery draining, I would think a GOOD fuse would be something that would NOT cause the battery to drain.
Try pulling the fuses for the ABS overnight (or however long it takes for your battery to go dead) and see if that actually PREVENTS the battery from draining.
Stranger things have happened...


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It would be a good idea to have the ABS system checked for codes; one would need a scantool capable of communicating with the ABS system to do this, so you will likely need to have a Nissan dealer or an independant shop with the equipment to do this retrieve the codes. The "buzzing" noise is likely the ABS actuator assy. In order to check for draw (assuming you don't have access to an ampmeter w/ a 2 amp shunt or a parasitic draw tester), you can use a test light. Shut all electric and accessories "off" and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Install the test light between the neg. cable and the neg. battery post. If there's a draw, the light should illuminate. Fuses can be removed until the test light goes out to pinpoint the circuit that is creating the draw (remember to press in the driver's door switch or unplug it when testing for draw with the driver's door opened). Once you isolate the circuit, you will need a wiring diagram to see what "loads" are on that circuit to help isolate the componant that is creating the draw on the battery.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

interested to know how you made out with this ?


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## NOSOSIMPLE (Dec 2, 2020)

jdg said:


> If you've got a problem with the battery draining, I would think a GOOD fuse would be something that would NOT cause the battery to drain.
> Try pulling the fuses for the ABS overnight (or however long it takes for your battery to go dead) and see if that actually PREVENTS the battery from draining.
> Stranger things have happened...


Not so simple I also have Nissan pathfinder with exact same situation. Car driving fine and ABS light some on, mine has also Seatbelt light blinking, no battery or no check engine light Comes on. This happens usually while stationarry but also whlie driving. Next my car begins to idle roughly and next it looses power. Resulting in the engine dying and will not restart. 
i have replaced the battery 2xs, i have replaced the alternator, i have replaced the battery hardness, the fuses, i have replaced the head unit (car Stereo) and after driving the car it has continued to drain battery, i get battery recharged and less then a week, even though i disconnect the battery over nigh it usually will run for about a full days drive and then the battery is drained. Battery is brand new purchased in late October this issue started in early September, I’m at a point ready to give up, I have been hearing from others i know with newer model nissans having power issues. and Nissan dealers not being able to diagnose problem. Or at least they have not shared with me a fix yet. If anyone has a more first hand or advice that would work. That would be helpful.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

NOSOSIMPLE said:


> Not so simple I also have Nissan pathfinder with exact same situation. Car driving fine and ABS light some on, mine has also Seatbelt light blinking, no battery or no check engine light Comes on. This happens usually while stationarry but also whlie driving. Next my car begins to idle roughly and next it looses power. Resulting in the engine dying and will not restart.
> i have replaced the battery 2xs, i have replaced the alternator, i have replaced the battery hardness, the fuses, i have replaced the head unit (car Stereo) and after driving the car it has continued to drain battery, i get battery recharged and less then a week, even though i disconnect the battery over nigh it usually will run for about a full days drive and then the battery is drained. Battery is brand new purchased in late October this issue started in early September, I’m at a point ready to give up, I have been hearing from others i know with newer model nissans having power issues. and Nissan dealers not being able to diagnose problem. Or at least they have not shared with me a fix yet. If anyone has a more first hand or advice that would work. That would be helpful.


Turn the key "on" (engine not running) and make sure the charging system warning light illuminates. If the bulb doesn't light up, you need to address this; it may just be the bulb is burnt out. This is sometimes referred to as the "third circuit" of the alternator. If there is an issue in this circuit, then the alternator may not charge. If the warning light does come on, then start the engine and install a voltmeter to the positive and negative battery posts. Charging system voltage should be 13.2-15.5 volts, both at idle and at 3000 RPM and with loads (headlights, heater fan, etc.) "on" and loads "off." If the charging system voltage is above 15.5 volts, the regulator is faulty in the alternator, causing it to overcharge. If the voltage is below 13.2 volts, the charging system is not properly charging. It "could" be the new alternator, especially if it's a low quality, aftermarket part. I usually stick with genuine Nissan alternators, Hitachi or Denso. Another area to check is the white, 10-gauge wire that runs between the fusible link for the alternator and the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. Sometimes these wires build up resistance inside and burn up or get really stiff, prevent fully battery voltage from getting to the alternator. Of course, make sure the alternator belt is sufficiently tight, battery cable connections are clean and tight and the case of the alternator is grounded (attach a 12v test light to the positive battery cable or post and touch the other end to the alternator case, which should cause it to light up).
If you need any more help, go to the starter and charging system section of the factory service manual for your vehicle (available at NICO Club's site) and there is a diagnostic procedure for you to follow to check your charging system.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

NOSOSIMPLE said:


> Not so simple I also have Nissan pathfinder with exact same situation. Car driving fine and ABS light some on, mine has also Seatbelt light blinking, no battery or no check engine light Comes on. This happens usually while stationarry but also whlie driving. Next my car begins to idle roughly and next it looses power. Resulting in the engine dying and will not restart.
> i have replaced the battery 2xs, i have replaced the alternator, i have replaced the battery hardness, the fuses, i have replaced the head unit (car Stereo) and after driving the car it has continued to drain battery, i get battery recharged and less then a week, even though i disconnect the battery over nigh it usually will run for about a full days drive and then the battery is drained. Battery is brand new purchased in late October this issue started in early September, I’m at a point ready to give up, I have been hearing from others i know with newer model nissans having power issues. and Nissan dealers not being able to diagnose problem. Or at least they have not shared with me a fix yet. If anyone has a more first hand or advice that would work. That would be helpful.


It may be worthwhile to inspect the charging system again. The replacement alternator hopefully was either a new Nissan OEM unit or a re-man OEM unit; aftermarket alternators many times don't charge correctly, don't last long or are DOA. A properly working charging system puts out about *13.2 to 15.0 volts,* but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post (+), or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this should be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. With the negative cable (-) disconnected from the battery, measure the resistance between the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator and the battery positive (+) post; the resistance should not be greater then 0.2 Ohms. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit.

Assuming the charging system voltage is ok and the battery is good, the next thing to do would be to have a parasitic draw test performed. If you have a multimeter, set it to the 10 amp position; disconnect the negative (-) battery connector and connect the multimeter leads between the battery post and the removed connector. *Important - nothing should be turned on inside the car such as lights, radio, etc and all doors need to stay closed.* There should not be more than a *50 milliamp* draw on the system with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position. *After the test, disconnect the multimeter from the battery before opening any doors *or else you can burn your meter out*.* If there is a higher parasitic draw, you need to do some testing to find out where the draw is coming from. Remove fuses one at a time until the draw goes away or falls into acceptable range.

The later-model cars have adopted what Nissan calls “power generation voltage variable controls.” This system monitors battery current and varies voltage to the regulator, reducing the load on the engine and resulting in better gas mileage. By varying the voltage to the alternator, engine load due to power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased. The battery current sensor is installed on the battery cable at the negative terminal. The battery current sensor detects the charging/discharging current of the battery and sends a voltage signal to the ECM according to the current value detected; you might want to check out this component if it's suspected to be a problem.

Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECM. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!


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