# Help the new guy



## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

Hello ppl been reading for a while but just decided to join
I have a question for all of the true nissan heads, or any who knows cars, about my B13 91 se-r . I have what I think is a problem when driving under load with being able to redline. At about 5800rpm in 1st and 2nd my car sounds like it kind of gets stopped up and struggles to go any higher on the tach. I also noticed that at this point acceleration slows substantially. Is this not really a problem or should I be able to get close to redline in 1st and 2nd. 
I haven't had the car for long, but it has 155k highway miles and all that I have done to the car is polished the MAF and TB, new timing chain/tensioner, and rebuilt 5th gear( basically stock). I have a few more questions but I'll post those later. Thanks in advance.:cheers:


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## HATEnFATE (Dec 24, 2002)

How does it run any other time??
Any problems? Air filter? spark plugs, wires, etc.....?
Most SR20DE's will "pull" all the way to 8,000 rpm (even though they redline at 7,500) I don't recommend goin past it. 
There could be a lot of answers. Might need more info.


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

When it is cold it sort of stalls and stumbles also when starting from a complete stop the RPMs will go to about 500 then it will start to pull. I've plugged the EGR and I recently changed the spark plugs/wires with stock gap and Accel wires. I have a fairly new fuel filter and air filter, but I'm not sure where my timing is set or about my injectors


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

Check your timing, my '93 XE had similar symptoms when I first got it and it turned out the timing was off. 



> Most SR20DE's will "pull" all the way to 8,000 rpm (even though they redline at 7,500) I don't recommend goin past it.


Unless you have a JWT ECU, fuel cutoff is at 7600. I know this for a fact because I've hit my rev limiter a few times and it was dead on at 7600.


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

Thanks I'll probably do that this weekend. Should it be set to 15* for normal driving or whats the best advance if I need one?


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

Try 17-19 degrees and see how you like it.


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## LexKyB13 (May 1, 2002)

you said you plugged your egr....the pipe coming off the header or the two ufo looking things? this might be throwing the computer off and making it retard timing.


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## deception se-r (Jul 24, 2002)

ive hit the rev limiter twice and its at 8k. the first time i wanted to see if it would rev 1k over the redline like other cars id driven, just for the sake of knowing. 

if your car wont make it to redline maybe your maf plug is loose (happend to me this weekend) or there might be something wrong with your maf. i had rev problems 3 times, once from driving with my cai in the rain(got moisture in my maf), again from my temp sensor comming loose(that was more of a low rpm problem), and the one mentioned earlier.


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

LexKyB13 I plugged the hose going from the BPT to the EGR. 

Oh yeah, nice to meet somebody on the board kind of close to Nashville


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## HATEnFATE (Dec 24, 2002)

I went to 8,000 and my car is stock with the exception of the exaust. maybe your cutoff is different because you have the lowport in your 93. I'm still running my stock 91 highport. ecu's ARE different between the two.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Jay, the SE-R tach is known to be a liar. I showed 8,200 rpm when I touched the fuel cut-off on the stock ECU. Fuel cut is same from '91 thru '94.


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

Mine's a highport, they didn't switch to lowport until the 93.5 production run. Like Bruce said, regardless what year your B13 is, or what your tach is reading ,B13 SE-R's have a fuel cutoff at 7500 RPM's (I was wrong, I said 7600). I verified it here: http://www.se-r.net/about/sentra_se-r/specs.html


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## jp314 (Jun 18, 2002)

Have you checked the distributor cap & rotor? Mine was acting like that one time - the contacts were corroded on the cap and the rotor contact was worn pretty bad.

I recently bought a Techtom MDM-100N. It verifies that the tach is off quite a bit in the high rpm range. When I shifted at about 7500 (per the tach), the peak recall on the MDM was about 7250 or so, can't remember exactly.

There is also a difference in speed from what the ECU thinks to what the speedometer shows. It's pretty close up to about 65, then around 70-75 the speedo reads a few mph high. I haven't tested it at higher speeds.


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## 1fastser (Sep 30, 2002)

B13speed said:


> *and I recently changed the spark plugs/wires with stock gap and Accel wires.*


What plugs did you use?

...and lose those wires and put your stock ones back on...they're much better.

Jody


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

right now I'm running stock NGK plugs(non platinum) and I've recently changed the rotor but the distributor looks like the original. Do you recommend a stock distributor or an aftermarket.


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## 1fastser (Sep 30, 2002)

stock distributor...I'd put in some OE platinum's just for piece of mind...only had problems when I used different plugs. Changing the cap and rotor never hurts.

Check your plug wires...if it's arcing on something it would stutter/hesitate and rob power. Just a thought.

Jody


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

Okay, just changed the distributor cap and rotor. I bought factory parts and just got them on about two hours ago, but it is still hard to redline in 1st and 2nd. Now what?


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

Maybe check out your TPS voltage and MAF ground. Have you checked your exhuast for blockage? Did you check your timing?


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## Guest (Apr 5, 2003)

How exactly do you go about changing your timing?


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

On your car, you warm the car up so that the temp gauge reads about the middle, and it's idling under 1K rpm. Run at 2K rpm's for ~2 minutes. Race engine to 2K to 3K 2 or 3 times. Turn off ignition and pull TPS harness off. Start car again and race engine 2K to 3K 2 or 3 times. Check ignition with a timing light by connecting the inductor to the #1 spark plug wire and hooking the light up to your battery terminals. Loosen the two distributor bolts just enough so that you can turn the distributor with your hand. Your crank pulley has 6 indicator marks. They are as follows, looking at the pulley from left to right (firewall end to radiator end). 0* 5* 10* 13* 15* 20* before top dead center. There's a white mark between 13 and 15 degrees. the * indicates degrees. Once you have the timing where you want it, 15*+/- 2* BTDC is stock. Once you have it adjusted, check to make sure the idle speed is at 750 rpm +/- 50 RPM. If it's not idling where it should be, race the engine to 2k to 3K 2 or 3 times and adjust the idle by turning the adjustment screw on the Idle Air Control. Then turn the car off and plug the TPS connector back in and start the engine. Race the eingine to 2K to 3K 2 or 3 times and check the idle to see if it's at 850RPM +/- 50 RPM. Good luck with it, I've been fighting with my idle and timing for almost a year now.


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

Thanks for all you guys help, but I just discovered that I have an exhaust leak due to a broken header bolt. Could this be causing my problems


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

I doubt it, my flex pipe is shot and I have a huge exhaust leak and my car still pulls like mad to redline.


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## B13speed (Mar 26, 2003)

What does an exhaust leak cause your car to do then because my car is running like crap. When I start from a complete stop I have to almost press the peddle to the floor to get going and if I'm on the interstate my car will barely accelerate. It feel like something is pulling me back whenever I press on the gas


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