# New engine won't turn over..........



## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

I've just finished rebuilding the engine, and transmission on my 05 SE-R 3.5l automatic. The car was running when I bought it. The waterpump was going out, and making a terrible noise, but it would run, and drive. The waterpump finally locked up, and shut the engine down, which is when I started the rebuild.

The engine was out for about two months. The engine will physically turn over as I jumped the terminals on the starter to bump the engine over to install the torque convertor bolts. 

The problem is electrical to be sure. All dash lights work, all headlights work, and I did make sure the shifter switch [which wasn't tampered with during the tranny rebuild] rod was in the right position. I also tried to turn the engine over in neutral, but still nothing.

I pulled the IPDM fuse box out to examine it. The black/white stripe trigger wire isn't getting volts. I pulled the connection from the IPDM that had both the black/red battery wire, and the black/white starter trigger wire, and jumped a wire between the two, and now it will crank all day, but the engine won't start. 

I did check the starter relay with another on the board, but no change. Also, I rechecked every connection, and looks like everything is accounted for. 

I also checked all of the fuses on both the inside, and outside fuse boxes, and all was well there. 

Here is the picture of the jumper wire, and connector.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Make sure all the engine ground connections are secure. Make sure the PNP switch on the tranny has the two wires connected; you can also try connecting those two wires together thus by-passing the PNP as a test. 

Once you get the engine to turn over, if fails to start, you'll have to determine if there's an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

Ok, I'll check the trans wires, and bypass the pnp.

Also, I did add a 4 gauge ground from tranny to frame. [and, plan to add a few more]

One very smart thing I did do was to add a few gallons of fuel as it was dead on empty. [you wouldn't believe how many hours have been wasted checking other things besides the fuel level on many top builds].

I can hear the fuel pump, and smell gas so for what it worth, something is going on fuel wise.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

Any idea where the blue wire, and the white wire are going from the connection in the pic above?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

I think it goes to the BCM; not sure though.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

rogoman said:


> I think it goes to the BCM; not sure though.


Yes, you are right they do go into the bcm, or ipdm [I've seen it called both], but I was wondering where did they come from?

Here is the only thing I can find, and it "looks" like they are coming/going to the ECU?????

Note disregard the yellow highlighted wire in the dia as its used to explain something else. 

The starter relay is the left, forth from the bottom.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

With the key on, I plugged in my Innova 3150 scanner, and got a U1000, and P1726. 

For the U1000 code I got this, which basically says that, "When ECM is not transmitting or receiving CAN communication signal of OBD (emission related diagnosis) for 2 seconds or more." 

The P1726 indicates the throttle body.

Still, I can't see why these codes would keep the engine from turning over. I can see how they could/would keep the engine from running, or running smoothly.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

I'm leaning to a bad IPDM/BDM. Any way to check this thing?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Your best bet is to get a copy of an FSM and go through the diagnostics. Most of the testing relies on the use of the Consult-II; I don't think you can rent one; maybe a friendly Nissan mechanic can bring one to help you. Another option is to get another IPDM from a junk yard to try.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

rogoman said:


> Your best bet is to get a copy of an FSM and go through the diagnostics. Most of the testing relies on the use of the Consult-II; I don't think you can rent one; maybe a friendly Nissan mechanic can bring one to help you. Another option is to get another IPDM from a junk yard to try.


I think I'm going to go with an IPDM from ebay, and the junkyards here want retail for their stuff.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

PS: is there a way to test the IPDM?


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

If I were to buy a used IPDM BCM would it have to be recoded, or can I just install it, and go? My car is an 05.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

An IPDM and a BCM are two different things. I believe you can just swap the IPDM, but not the case for the BCM, which stores the key coding. The IPDM has its own central processor. The factory service manual will tell you how to retrieve trouble codes from it and diagnose it, but you will need a capable scan tool.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks again. 

I need a favor from one of you guys. 

If you can take the connection off of the IPDM that I showed in the picture. Put a jumper wire to connect the black wire with the red stripe to the black wire with the white stripe [pretty easy to do as the other two wires are blue, and white]. 

Now see if the car will start with that connector disconnected [and the two wires jumped together].
This will have to be done on a V6 car. I can't see jumping those wires will hurt anything, either the engine will start, or it won't. At least this way I will kinda know which direction to take. 

Here is the picture again. 



Again, I would really appreciate it.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Well, I don't own an L31, so I can't help you there.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks anyway. 

You just reminded me though that if anyone does have the time to do this, it would have to be on an 02-06 Altima 3.5l, V6. 

See, if someone can give this a try, and just connect the two wires as I did in the diagram, and their engine starts, then I'll know its something else, like maybe a bad sensor, etc. 

But, if someone tries this, and the engine will just crank, and not run, [like mine] then I will just give in, and buy a new IPDM.


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## M-train (Mar 4, 2014)

Well, I found part of the problem, the engine has no compression. 

The valve machine I used to face the valves don't chuck down far enough for these pin sized valve stems on the VQ engine so I made a sleeve. I don't think the sleeve kept the valves straight enough so I will have to pull them out for a redo.

I just got finished with checking cam lash again, and it was well within limits. 

Also, I was very careful with the valve timing, took pictures, and after looking at the pics I don't see the timing being off.

OUT comes the engine. Oh well. thanks to everyone who tried to help.


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