# 1995 HB High idle 4x4 2.4



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

So month or so ago I purchased a throttle body from ebay, installed, then got a insturment cluster on ebay. The truck had a high idle when I first installed the throttle body after some adjustments tach was showing 750rpm. I installed the cluster I got from ebay. I put it all back together cause I was like, hey what could go wrong doing this, Right? Lol 😆 

Well the tach was showing idle at 1200-1500. I thought maybe it was because I didnt pull the needle and reinsert with power. So I took it back apart to see if it correct the problem. It didnt. I bought a photo tach rpm meter, to make sure the cluster was good. Photometer shows the same high rpm.

So after trying to get the idle down I have had no luck at all. 
TB is clean.
Idle screw is only opened 1/2 a turn from being closed off.
Have a 
New iacv, 
New ac cutoff thing under iacv
New throttle cable, adjusted 
. swapped out mass airflow from old TB
Adjusted Fic
Timing is right on the money 10
Tps adjustment 
Vacuum gauge (habor freight) showing 60 in the green for normal engine. 

Has the base set Idle screw been messed with?


----------



## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

My guess would be a vacuum leak when you installed the throttle body. A lot of people use smoke machines to find vacuum leaks. Those are easy to find with it being Halloween season. You can also find leaks by making small squirts around suspected areas with Starter Fluid*. I would say to focus on all areas that you just worked on first. Most of your vacuum hoses are old, so you could have moved a hose that has dry-rot and caused a crack.

*Be careful if you use Starter Fluid. It is more volatile than gasoline, so use short bursts and let it dry completely before testing another area.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

I bought new gaskets. I only used one for the Throttle body but realized I didn't get one for the space. 

So I bought both, Gaskets and reinstalled.


----------



## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

So, since you had the vacuum leak, you installed new gaskets and the problem is gone?

Or, you installed new gaskets back when you put the throttle body on the truck, and now the truck has a problem?


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

I am sorry. Vacuum is 20 to 21hg
Yes I still have problem of high idle after changing both gaskets.


----------



## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Try the Starter Fluid trick. 

Make short burst squirts around the parts you replaced, letting the liquid evaporate between squirts.

It is very flammable, and it evaporates quickly. Don't squirt a lot at one time.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

bad temperture sensor...


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Azazel said:


> I am sorry. Vacuum is 20 to 21hg
> Yes I still have problem of high idle after changing both gaskets.


A high idle speed after the engine is fully warmed up, many times is caused by a bad FIC. If you purchased a *used* throttle body, then there's a good chance the FIC is the problem; it's worth putting a new FIC in.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

I notice when I twist fic screw down the screw is kicking outward. I sprayed wd 40 on fic. Helped a little, but fic screw still gets tilted.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The FIC should never be adjusted. It's normally preset in the factory. Your best bet is to buy a new one and be done with it.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You may have a bad wax element in the throttle body or insufficient coolant flow around the hot wax element in the throttle body. As the coolant heats up the wax, it causes the plunger to retract inside of it, which lowers the fast idle.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

OK so I have now replaced the FIC element , temp sensor/sender units. And all the vacuum hose. Still high Idle.

Now the temp Guage is staying at 1/4 mark on cold side even after driving.

Should I feel suction off any vacuum hose I pull loose? Because I dont.
As of now I only have vacuum on these lines in red(didn't finish all the color but suction flows through those lines and vacuum tank.) Pics of my hoses are here. 
Hardbody Vacuum


http://imgur.com/a/rOExn0s

















My vacuum gallery looks like this image here but still different.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Azazel said:


> OK so I have now replaced the FIC element , temp sensor/sender units. And all the vacuum hose. Still high Idle.
> 
> Now the temp Guage is staying at 1/4 mark on cold side even after driving.
> 
> ...


You're vacuum gallery as shown in the lower picture should have full vacuum; one of those hoses should have a connection to the intake manifold to get a full vacuum.

If the temp gauge is not showing proper temperature, the thermostat may be bad.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

Do you know which hose I have wrong? I have tried connecting these hoses by 3 different diagram. I colored all the vac lines in these diagrams to try to make it easier to follow but I am only getting flow in the lines I pictured with red in first diagram.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Azazel said:


> Do you know which hose I have wrong? I have tried connecting these hoses by 3 different diagram. I colored all the vac lines in these diagrams to try to make it easier to follow but I am only getting flow in the lines I pictured with red in first diagram.


I'm sitting in front of a PC monitor, not standing in front of your vehicle which makes it almost impossible to say which hose is right or wrong. You have 3 different diagrams all showing different aspects of the vacuum system; one diagram shows only part numbers. It seems the best place to start is the vacuum tank which should have a direct connection to the intake manifold; if you measure the vacuum here, it should be full vacuum. Then go from there following the hoses. Use a vacuum gauge for measuring.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

Sorry, I thought the pictures I took of the hose from my truck and label would be just as good as standing in front of the truck.



http://imgur.com/a/rOExn0s


Thanks for your input.


----------



## Azazel (May 3, 2009)

Where is the nipple on the gallery that has the main vacuum on? 


No clue how to get my vacuum working right again. The diagram doesn't show where the vacuum tank with the check valve is really connecting to. Same with the bottom connection coming from the swirl control valve. Shows the loop from bottom of swirl control then has lines going to gallery just below the nipple for line going to air breather. 

I have tried connecting it different ways get nothing to other vacuum lines. Test drive came home and had code 41,32,13,12


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Azazel said:


> Where is the nipple on the gallery that has the main vacuum on?
> 
> 
> No clue how to get my vacuum working right again. The diagram doesn't show where the vacuum tank with the check valve is really connecting to. Same with the bottom connection coming from the swirl control valve. Shows the loop from bottom of swirl control then has lines going to gallery just below the nipple for line going to air breather.
> ...


Found a vacuum chart on a 1996 FSM. Take a look at the base of the throttle body on the driver's side; there should be two ports for full manifold vacuum; the picture shows it also. One goes to the EVAP canister purge valve; the other goes to the MAP/BARO switch.


----------

