# Transmission Issue



## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

The other day when backing out of the driveway the car angered and died when I stopped. I restarted and shifted into drive and again it died. Like there was no slip between the engine and transmission. Got it to go and discover that it wouldn't shift into first, only second and third. Then today I left home and it won't shift into third. Raining here today so I haven't checked the transmission fluid. Now I have fault code P0744.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It would be nice if you state the model,year,engine and transmission of your vehicle. We do not have super X-ray vision; we're sitting in front of our monitors, maybe on the other side of the world. So we have no way of knowing what your vehicle is.

A P0744 code indicates the following as taken from the FSM:

This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into fourth gear position or the torque converter
clutch does not lock up as instructed by the TCM. This is not caused by electrical malfunction (circuits AT
open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve
operation, malfunctioning oil pump or torque converter clutch, etc.

The first thing to check is the ATF level making sure it's at the full mark. The color should be pinkish. If it's brown and has a burnt smell, then there is an internal problem with the A/T. 

Here are some other possible items to check:
- Line pressure solenoid valve
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
- Hydraulic control circuit


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

*Vehicle information*

My bad. I know better than posting without vehicle information. 98 Altima Automatic. Is there more than one option for the AT? This case is new to me and I am still learning. Hopefully fluid and filter today.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

A 4-speed AT was the only automatic option available.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

They don't really have a filter. Jatco transmissions use a screen, so drain and fill is the typical service. If there is enough debris in the screen to restrict or block flow, you wouldn't engage in any gear AND you need a trans overhaul, not a service. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to drop the pan and inspect the magnet to see if there is a high concentration of metal on it, specifically metal "bits" or needle bearings. If there is, again, you need an overhaul. By your description, it sounded like at first the torque converter locked up. It's likely the best case scenario is that it needs a valve body...and worst case, a replacement transmission. Valve bodies are expensive and it may be more practical to consider a used, replacement transmission rather than fix the current one, if that's the issue. It was a pretty common transmission for a number of years, so it shouldn't be too hard to locate one. Make sure you get at least a 30-day warranty. Of course, you could always have a reputable transmission shop take a look at it.


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

Thanks for the insight about the screen. Unfortunately I had already removed it. The nut for the long bolt was on the bottom but wouldn't spin back on, so I ended up dropping the valve body to get to the head to hold it. 
I didn't find any large debris in the magnets. Just some very fines.
Back together and running. No real changes. Only gears that work are 1, 2 and reverse. In drive when I slow down the engine provides no braking, but if I am in 2nd manually it does.
Is there a chance that disassembling and cleaning the valve body will solve the issue?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You can try it, but they are easy to mess up if you take them apart if you've never done one before. But at this point, what have you got to lose?


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

I am going to get a transmission but plan to replace output seals. When I called the parts store they asked if it had a limited slip differential. Was this an option for this vehicle and how can I tell which I have? My car it's the 98 Altima GXE Automatic


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

As far as I know, the first generation (U13, 1993–1997) cars had a limited slip differential option in the SE model; the A/T model was an "RE4F04V" transaxle. The 1998 and up generations don't show a limited slip option. I hope this answers your question.


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

That does answer my question. Thank you so much for your help. I'm trying to learn more about this vehicle andi have always gotten good information from the forums.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The trans code should be on a sticker on the driver's door jamb, such as that rogoman mentions. Transaxles that end in the letter "A" are open carrier diffs and those that end in "V" are viscous, or limited-slip, transaxles. The limited-slips have a different, "stepped" shaft on the driver's side, inner CV joint whereas the shaft on the inner CV joint on the driver's side of non-LSD transaxles is the same size diameter from the joint to the end of the shaft.


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

Doing the swap to a used transmission. What is the best choice for transmission fluid?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Do not use Dexron III/Mercon ATF. The factory fill is NissanMatic Type "D" ATF, which is the original Dexron formula and Dexron/Dexron II have a thinner viscosity than Dexron III, which can cause sticking in the valve body when used as a full service replacement. Most synthetic ATF's work fine for Dexron/Dexron II applications. My personal choice is Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF which I get at Walmart for $18/gallon jug. That's a lot cheaper than the $6 or $7 per quart that you'll pay for NissanMatic "D."


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## Iceman62 (Nov 17, 2018)

Thank you. I noticed the owner's manual called for the Nissan D-Matic but listed Dex 3 as a substitute. I will look into the Valvoline Max life full synthetic.


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