# 93 SE 4wd front hub removal



## my93Pathfinder (Dec 27, 2005)

Hey all,

I went to change the front brake pads and rotors on my 93 SE 4X4 a few weeks ago but had to abort because I could not figure out how to remove the auto-locking hubs to get the rotors off. Do you need an engineering masters degree to do this? I remove the six bolts that I thought were the only bolts holding it to the spindle but it would not budge. Any ideas or should I just take it to a shop?


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## dvdswanson (Nov 6, 2005)

it may have been a while since they were last removed. a little persuation (sp?) should take care of it. once you take the 6 screws out it should come right off.


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## my93Pathfinder (Dec 27, 2005)

I did 'tap' on them a little bit with a small sledge, after I removed the six bolts but didn't want to hammer so hard that I broke something (after all, I had to drive it back home). I think I may leave it to a shop (if they break something, they can replace it, haha).


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## dvdswanson (Nov 6, 2005)

That works as well.


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

my93Pathfinder said:


> ....I think I may leave it to a shop............


I'd like to encourage you to do this yourself. It's not that tough, but it may require some specialty tools (or at least some improvisation).

I am not sure which "6 bolts" you are refering to, the ones holding the rotor to the hub assembly, or the 6 allan head bolts on the cap of the auto-locking 4wd hubs. But, to get the rotor and hub assembly off, you have to remove the auto-locking hub assembly - - that means the allan screws. 

Here's what you do...

- Remove the 6 allan screws and remove the cap.
- Remove the spring and flat washers inside that slide off of the spindle (take note of the order and position/orientation of these to put them back in the same order.
- Now remove the lock washer holding the wheel bearing and hub in place. This is similar to the large lock "nut" that you may have seen on other vehicles. The lock washer is threaded onto the spindle. Before removing this washer, you must locate and remove the small screw(s) that keep the washer from spinning.
- Once the lock washer is removed, the hub and rotor assembly will slide off the spindle - bringing the outer wheel bearing with it.
- Once this is off, you can now unbolt the rotor from the hub.

Reinstallation of the hub assembly is the reverse of the above. Just make sure that you fully grease (re-pack) the bearings before reassembly. You also want to make sure you seat and pre-load the outer bearing properly with the lock washer, before replacing the screws in the lock washer.

Now, depending on your comfort level with mechanical things (I don't know you, so forgive me - I don't intend to offend) this may seems a little overwhelming at first, but with the right tools and a little time, it's totally do-able. The only "specialty" tools required would be for torquing (pre-loading)the lock washer, but these can often be borrowed, free-of-charge, from a parts store.

Might I also suggest you pick up a Haynes repair manual (I actually have a Chilton, but I understand it is not as good as Haynes), which should describe the above process pretty well.

Anyway, if you decide to do this yourself, have fun with it. And let us know how it turned out...


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## my93Pathfinder (Dec 27, 2005)

Zilverado,

Funny you should mention the manuals because I stopped by two parts stores and neither had one in stock (at least in English anyway). 
I know the six allen bolts you speak of. I removed them and removed the cap and saw the intricacies of the spring and washer assy and thought I'd better hold off. I think I would have been ok if I had had a manual. Thanks for the information!


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

my93Pathfinder said:


> ...I removed them and removed the cap and saw the intricacies of the spring and washer assy and thought I'd better hold off. I think I would have been ok if I had had a manual. Thanks for the information!


Hey, you're welcome - - that's what's so great about these forums!!! :thumbup: 

As I said earlier, it's really not as scary as it seems in there. If you take your time and "learn as you go", you'll be fine. But yes, I would say you should look for a manual. It'll pay for itself the first time you use it (and save BIG $$$$ doing the work yourself).


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