# 1998 Frontier 2.4 4x4 KA24DE Cranks But Wont Start



## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

Hello guys,

About a year ago I bought a 98 frontier 2.4 4x4 manual transmission KA24DE with 270,000 miles from a auction site. The vehicle was labeled as "repossessed" and "runs and drives" so when it arrived home I was shocked what condition the truck was in. 

The clutch was not holding so I barely backed it up from the front of my home into my garage. The engine seemed to run fine and it started on the first key after charging the battery. I did not have the time to change the clutch when I bought it so the truck was untouched in my garage for about a year. 

About two weeks ago I ordered all the parts, dropped the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and release bearing. I put fluids in the transfer and transmission, changed the oil and topped off the coolant. 
The truck had about 2 gallons of old gas in it and instead of draining it, I added 5 gallons of premium on top of it. I charged the battery and tried to start it. It would crank but would not start. 

I am getting 12.6 volts from the battery and it does not drop below 12v during crank (I have tried jump starting it also). I tried 2 starters without any improvement. I am getting 12.6 volts at the starter also. I tried some starting fluid without any improvement. I have changed all 4 spark plugs. The old ones were wet with fuel. I have tested the spark plugs and wires and I am getting spark in all 4. I hear the fuel pump priming, I hear the clutch relay clicking. The last few times I have tried cranking it, I have heard a small pop and I get smoke coming from the throttle body. I am not sure if this is because of the starter fluid. I don't see how the timing chain would of broke sitting there?

I am not sure if its a flywheel/crank positioning sensor issue? from what I read, the sensor is used for diagnostics only? A ground issue?

I would like to try to get it started. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

> I did not have the time to change the clutch when I bought it so the truck was untouched in my garage for about a year.
> 
> About two weeks ago I ordered all the parts, dropped the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and release bearing. I put fluids in the transfer and transmission, changed the oil and topped off the coolant.
> The truck had about 2 gallons of old gas in it and instead of draining it, I added 5 gallons of premium on top of it.


George,

With only about 2 gallon's of gas in the Tank, sitting for about a year; I think there is a good chance of Water in the injector fuel line's. Condensation will transfer water into the Gas Tank quiet a bit, over time in an almost empty tank.

In my experience with small aircraft, we alway's try to fill the Gas Tank's up, before parking each day to prevent water in the tank as much as possible.

HTH & Good Luck


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

Thank you for the reply.
I pulled the fuel line from the injectors and primed the pump a few times and the pump itself is working fine. There is definitely a intake backfire with small amount of smoke coming out through the air filter.
I guess the next thing to do is empty the fuel tank, clean/test the injectors and try it again with new fuel.


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

GeorgeLee said:


> Thank you for the reply.
> I pulled the fuel line from the injectors and primed the pump a few times and the pump itself is working fine. There is definitely a intake backfire with small amount of smoke coming out through the air filter.
> I guess the next thing to do is empty the fuel tank, clean/test the injectors and try it again with new fuel.


George,

Sound's like a good plan.

Make sure that you get all the water out of the injector line's,, as well as any water that may still be in the Cylinder's; Cause if one of the cylinder's fire,, with water being in one of the other cylinder's, it can be too much pressure for that cylinder and damage can result.

I probably would add a little fuel additive like Chevron's Fuel injector Cleaner and Water Remover to the New Gas as well.

HTH & Good Luck


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

Well it looks like I have found the problem.....
While I was checking the distributor, I set #1 cylinder on TDC and took a look at the cam lobes through the oil cap. Looks like the lobes are pointing down while cylinder #1 is at TDC instead of pointing outward... So I am assuming the chain jumped or broke? I guess the person who had it drove it to 270000 miles without changing anything. I don't see how me changing the clutch and flywheel would of made the chain jump. Maybe while using my impact gun on the flywheel?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

GeorgeLee said:


> Well it looks like I have found the problem.....
> While I was checking the distributor, I set #1 cylinder on TDC and took a look at the cam lobes through the oil cap. Looks like the lobes are pointing down while cylinder #1 is at TDC instead of pointing outward... So I am assuming the chain jumped or broke? I guess the person who had it drove it to 270000 miles without changing anything. I don't see how me changing the clutch and flywheel would of made the chain jump. Maybe while using my impact gun on the flywheel?


You might want to do an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes may be set. Also check the fuel pressure with a tee'd connection at the output of the fuel filter; without starting the engine by just turning the ignition switch to the "run" position. You should see a static reading of around 40 psi.
When you're setting #1 cyl to TDC, make sure it's on the compression stroke; TDC can also be 180 degrees out. Here a picture of the cam lobes at TDC on the compression stroke:


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

rogoman said:


> You might want to do an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes may be set. Also check the fuel pressure with a tee'd connection at the output of the fuel filter; without starting the engine by just turning the ignition switch to the "run" position. You should see a static reading of around 40 psi.
> When you're setting #1 cyl to TDC, make sure it's on the compression stroke; TDC can also be 180 degrees out. Here a picture of the cam lobes at TDC on the compression stroke:



Thank you for the information. 
I have hooked up a scanner already and its not throwing any codes out. I will try to hook up a gauge and check the fuel pressure. I will make sure its on compression stroke tomorrow and take a better look without the cover on. 
thanks


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

rogoman said:


> You might want to do an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes may be set. Also check the fuel pressure with a tee'd connection at the output of the fuel filter; without starting the engine by just turning the ignition switch to the "run" position. You should see a static reading of around 40 psi.
> When you're setting #1 cyl to TDC, make sure it's on the compression stroke; TDC can also be 180 degrees out. Here a picture of the cam lobes at TDC on the compression stroke:


I have a single timing chain. So I turned the crank and set it to the second mark from the left on the crank pulley. Cylinder #1 is all the way up. The right cam lobe is pointing up but not straight up, and the left one is pointing down but not straight down. Is this normal? The chain does not seem tight.

http://imageshack.com/a/img907/8642/MQ9bqS.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img905/4907/ZlZxoc.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img903/7082/OlptDk.jpg


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

GeorgeLee said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> About a year ago I bought a 98 frontier 2.4 4x4 manual transmission KA24DE with 270,000 miles from a auction site. The vehicle was labeled as "repossessed" and "runs and drives" so when it arrived home I was shocked what condition the truck was in.





GeorgeLee said:


> I have a single timing chain. So I turned the crank and set it to the second mark from the left on the crank pulley. Cylinder #1 is all the way up. The right cam lobe is pointing up but not straight up, and the left one is pointing down but not straight down. Is this normal? The chain does not seem tight.
> 
> http://imageshack.com/a/img907/8642/MQ9bqS.jpg
> http://imageshack.com/a/img905/4907/ZlZxoc.jpg
> http://imageshack.com/a/img903/7082/OlptDk.jpg


Your engine is a KA24DE so it has two timing chains in the assembly. If the engine is truly set to TDC on the compression stroke, the cam timing is incorrect according to your picture; to set cyl #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, have someone tap the starter while you have your hand over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC compression stroke; here's a picture of what the cam lobes should look like for #1 cyl:


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

George,

Here is a place to download the service manual, in case you don't have one:

http://www.********.com/archives/nissan-frontier-factory-service-manuals.html

Do you remember when last the Engine was running,, if there was a continous rattleing sound from the engine? For my '93 with the ka24e engine that was an indication that the timeing chain was too loose and needed serviceing. The '93 that I had only had 3 valve's per cylinder,, but Your's is 4 valve's per cylinder, right? I never needed to service the Timeing chain on the '93,, and the Valve's were self adjusting,, so I never needed to do that either.

I would read the service manual,, and check the timeing mark's for when the #1 Cylinder is at TDC on the Compression Stroke, before makeing any adjustment's.

I know how to get to TDC on my little Diesel Engined Tractor,, but on these 3 and 4 Valve's per cylinder on these engine's I would need to do some serious studying to make sure how to find TDC on the compression stroke for #1 Cylinder.

HTH

PS: Oop's look's like the address is blocked,, so just google Nissan Service Manual,, and you should be able to get there. I don't much like that place,, but the service manual's are no charge,, so can't complain about Free.


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

http://www.********.com/nissan-service-manuals


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

rogoman said:


> Your engine is a KA24DE so it has two timing chains in the assembly. If the engine is truly set to TDC on the compression stroke, the cam timing is incorrect according to your picture; to set cyl #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, first disconnect the ignition coil wire, have someone tap the starter while you have your hand over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC compression stroke; here's a picture of what the cam lobes should look like for #1 cyl:


I have tried that and I feel no compression under #1 when I put my hand over it. Before removing the valve cover I have also tried removing the spark plug and putting the wire back in but it never jumped out. 

Turning the crank by hand multiple times I have noticed that the only time both the lobes point outward is when cylinder #1 is all the way down. But at the same time, the markings on the crank pulley are nowhere in sight. Turning the Crank multiple times I can see the timing chain and the cams jerk or skip. Its not a smooth motion. Sometimes the chain is tight sometimes its loose? 

I remember now that after I put the transmission back on and I tried to start the engine I could feel the engine turning all the way in my seat. After trying to crank it a multiple times I heard a intake backfire and ever since then I could see the engine turning while I crank it but I could not feel it in my seat like I did before. It was weak. No compression? At the time I thought I burned the starter and I replaced it without any result. But now I am assuming that the tensioner broke while I was cranking it?




























BRubble said:


> George,
> Do you remember when last the Engine was running,, if there was a continous rattleing sound from the engine?


I did not pay any attention at the time I got the vehicle. I only ran the engine a few minutes but I dont remember. I do have a FSM. Thank you.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

From your description, it sounds like the timing chain jumped several teeth and in the process bent several valves. Run a compress test on all cylinders and you'll probably find that several cylinders have no compression.


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## GeorgeLee (Dec 21, 2015)

rogoman said:


> From your description, it sounds like the timing chain jumped several teeth and in the process bent several valves. Run a compress test on all cylinders and you'll probably find that several cylinders have no compression.


I don't have a pressure gauge on hand but I will pick one up this weekend. However I can tell there's no pressure from any of the cylinders when I use my hand. I can see the tensioner sticking and snapping as I turn the crank and giving the chain slack. Im sure the valves are gone.


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