# For B12 owners eyes 1st!!!



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Hey guys,

Before I put these in the buy and sell, I wanted to give you guys 1st crack at them. They are drop zone lowering springs! These are the springs that I had on the car when I raced the S2000, the WRX and the turbocharged IS300. I have not a clue as to what their rates are and I would suggest checking Drop Zone's site. They're in my trunk taking up space and they gotta go....All offers will be considered, but you are responsible for shipping costs. Going once????????????


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## hybrid DET (Apr 15, 2002)

lol, good looking out... We'll leave this here for a few days and then maybe move it to the classifieds.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Cool!! Thanks..............


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Hmmm lets see.... I have 15, mmmm. 45..... 95.....355. Eh, I don't think $3.55 will be enough Oh well, maybe some other time


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

I'm not asking for a car payment? Crack-head price...make your offers.


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I was just joking. I don't even have enough cash for 2 gallons of gas.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Food for thought!!! When broke and need gas, Piss in tank! LMAO I got jokes...............


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## rice rocket (soon) (Oct 28, 2002)

if you need fuel make some ethanol in your basement i suggest a well ventilated basement


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

damnit, if only the Canadian dollar was worth more, i mgiht be able to afford them... 

-Nick


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

CAD$$ sucks big time ... last time i went to Vermont $$ was worth way more and still was 0.81cents to a dollars.... there was a time that it was 1.04 for the buck (20years ago)... i wich i could afford your setup buddy !!


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

As long as I'm around and you have the urge and a few $$$ left to splurge with, I can always hook you up! I know how things are with money for the average working man or student! And for the little rich kids, my services are still available for you as well. To you guys that want to go fast on a budget, get a ca18de swap! You can kick some SE-R butt as well as the civics and the likes.


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

could you star a thread on this swap ???.... wath implied with this engine and wath is needed and such.... would be great to have the information on hand (link for all other)... And so if you need to "not be around" anymore well get all the How-to


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

If there aren't already pages on how to do some typical motor swaps, someone could make some. But don't look at me, I'm yet to set up my own webpage Damn shitty computer. The last time I ran out of gas at home, I saw 5 gallons of methanol at a friend house and couldn't resist.


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## Guest (Feb 16, 2003)

How hard is the ca18de swap, I'm considering the ga16de swap just because of it's simplicity compared to other swaps it would seem, plus you get more horsepower, torque and usefullness with it....not that I wouldn't rather have an sr20de!!!
If their is any info. out their on the this swap though let's get the word out.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Blownb310 is the ACE on swapping a GA16DE! Swapping a CA18DE is no worse than swaping for a GA16DE in the fact that there's going to be major changes in the wiring as well as the engine bay. Which is better? No brainer....(the CA18DE). The 113hp CA16DE is better than the GA16DE and this has been proven over and over and over again though no one really uses this motor and you can have the CA18DE. As far as putting together a swap forum, that's a little hard to do. I've shelled out massive information to all that was interested in doing the swap and it would have been wise to save those emails. I hate repetition and it's very time consuming. This is not like a GA16DE swap to SR20 swap, this is a much more complex conversion that will require some knowledge of nissan color codes. The other thing to do is to have me create the harnesses which takes forever and I really hate doing them. If someone really wanted to do this, I recommend at least spending the money on the harnesses or having someone competent enough to help with this. The mechanicas of this swap is pretty much text book and it is a bolt-in procedure. Sorry guys, but time is money and my cars need my time, so if you're really interested, it won't be free from my end. So I say, try and do it yourselves and I'll help as much as I can from afar. And even the cluster creation is difficult and takes great attention to detail. I hope this is straight-forward and to the point about swapping a GA16DE, CA16DE or CA18DE in to B12 sentra. Ask Blown and Hybrid, you don't just sit down and write and editorial on swaps. And I don't mind answering the ???s, but you have to think that I got a bunch of emails asking the same question and I try my best to explain as best as possible and some people are easily deterred when they here the cost! Welcome to speed forum 101! It ain't cheap and time waits for no one


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

How hard can a wiring harness be? Just break the cars electrical system down into sections, make those up and combine them for the completed harness, then again I think industrial motor controls are nothing more than connect the the dots. Anyway, a full harness shouldn't be that much.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

> How hard can a wiring harness be? Just break the cars electrical system down into sections, make those up and combine them for the completed harness, then again I think industrial motor controls are nothing more than connect the the dots. Anyway, a full harness shouldn't be that much.


 Very well put! It has to be broken down into different areas, however, easier said than done! The CA18 is more complex than the SR, all GA's and most definitely E16's & E15's. But the concept still remains the same. And if any of you ever saw a CA18DE in a pulsar, you would kinda get the picture that is a piece of work. It pumped out 125hp in 1988 which was a marvel back then and has even proven to be a marvel to date, but if you want to put into a b12 sentra, you are going to need the donor, some experience with wiring and crap load of patience as well as fate. One wrong hook-up and good-bye ECU. I have extras if needed


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

One thing that really helps is labeling the wires. If you do that correctly, you really can't screw anything up. I have a shitload of experience with wiring, so I won't have much of a problem. I'm not a patient person, but with something I love to do, I have all the time in the world.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Then this will be a piece of cake for you! That's how I got to where I'm at "trial and error" and then the love of solving a mystery knowing the outcome will be a sweet bliss of satisfaction.


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Yeah, about 300bhp of bliss Can't wait until I can start the swap.


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Boost to add to the complexity of the swap, you will also require the tranny of the Pulsar SE since it uses hydraulics not cable type clutch. One turnoff of the CA motor is the coilpacks that it uses. Quite expensive to replace.


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

you can use the one from the ca16de engine too wich boost_boy recommend for the gear ratio !! (cable instead of hydro??)


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

I got rid of that whole factory system and installed an SDS standalone. Best investment I ever made! The coil packs are expensive and if anybody needs some fresh ones, I got about 12 of them!


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Hey boost what is the SDS system? Could it be use for NA CA18, since yours is turbo? Anyhow those coilpacks, you can probably sell it to the guys at Nissan EXAClub Forum. I heard those coilpacks can get as high as $100 a piece, new I guess.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

The SDS (simple digital system) www.sdsefi.com is a standalone engine management system and yes, it can be used on your CA18DE. I'll ask the guys at the EXA club are they interested. Thanks, Merv...........


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Hey Boost_Boy, So this SDS works very well with the CA18DE/T. It is very similar to Electromotive's TEC system. One complains of many Pulsar SE owners are these coilpacks (a lot also complain about the CAS and power transistors) which quite expensive to replace. Also, you mentioned that the CA18DET is better mated with a tranny from 87 CA16DE instead of the CA18DE from 88-89? I guess you are talking about gear ratios and final drive ratio differences of the two. Correct me if Iam wrong, all CA series motor uses hydraulic clutch. So if you transplant a CA motor, you will need the tranny too? Thanks Boost!!!


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I know you use SDS for standalone, but do you know how good AEM's EMS is? What other standalone systems are there out there?


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

> Also, you mentioned that the CA18DET is better mated with a tranny from 87 CA16DE instead of the CA18DE from 88-89?


 The CA18DET mated to the CA16DE is a wicked combo, but not reliable, for the tranny can not take the extra power for long. All CA18's trannies are hydraulic which IMO is the best. They have a longer final drive with the Jap Spec version having an even longer final drive. Remeber, the bluebird is a stanza/maxima in japan which is ultimately a heavier car, so the tranny must be geared accordingly to the car's power output as opposed to the car's weight as well. So a 300+whp CA18DET in a FWD kn13 pulsar or B12 sentra= somebody's fixing to get smoked "Nasty-Style" .


> So if you transplant a CA motor, you will need the tranny too?


 Yes! Use the CA16's tranny for the ultimate street beater (CA18DE or DET) and use the CA18's tranny for the ultimate highway runner. I used to munch up those SI's with my CA18DE set-up. They would hang around till about 120mph and the seperation begins.


> I know you use SDS for standalone, but do you know how good AEM's EMS is? What other standalone systems are there out there?


 I don't know much about AEM's system, but I hear mixed reviews about it! Most people down here that's making good power uses a Haltec. Other systems include Motec (big bucks), DTA (just like a haltec), microtec (just like an SDS), Electromotive TEC-II, Wolf 3D and SDS just to name a few. I chose the SDS because I was an entry level tuner and I needed a system that I can understand and learn without compromising the health and life of my motor. I got this system down pretty good now and it works for. I own 3 SDS systems and they cost around $1300 each (fully equipped). It has GM coils that will replace the coilpacks on the CA18 via spark plug wires.


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I've heard a lot about Haltec. Mainly from DSM forums boards because that is what the majority of standalones on DSM's are. It seems to work quite well for them. I think AEM's is more Honda oriented.


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

With the Haltec you will need a laptop! And if you're not familiar with tuning, you're going to spend some big bucks on getting it tuned professionally. The SDS is more of a real time piece of gear that you can tune on the fly. You drive your car everyday and only you can determine if something doesn't feel right at a certain rpm. It has an in-car programmer that displays, engine temp, rpms, map pressure, battery voltage, injector duty cycle just to name some of it's features. It's worth it and I do mean every dollar's worth! If you live in california or neighboring states and don't like screwing with standalones, JWT is the way to go. I couldn't afford to keep sending my ecu back everytime I did a major mod, so I boxed that stuff up and maybe someday someone might have a use for it. I spent a crap load of money having two ecu's done and I see the prices haven't gone down either. SO if anyone's interested in my JWT ECU set up for the pulsar/sentra, it won't be crack-head priced .


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

There is a guy around here who uses standalone on his 450hp FD3S RX-7. He can turn them and I he will only charge $250 for the first time, and $150 each additional. I think he uses AEM's. BTW, how much does it run to have the ECU tuned?


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## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Starting baseline session is usually around $350-$500 easily...Fine tuning sessions are usually around $100-$200 not to include dyno time.


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