# Sound deadening areas



## akk51 (Aug 21, 2002)

ah sound deadening...i really need help on where the major trouble spots are in B14's for when bass hits hard. i hear a lot of rattling from the sides of the rear bumper but i have no idea how to sound deaden an area like that. also, lately i've been hearing rattling coming from the top of the back seat and a little bit under the car. what are usually the spots that cause this? and how do you put fatmat in these areas effectively? if anyone has pictures or has completely elimnated rattling i would love to hear how to do it best. thanks a lot


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## Token Moron (Mar 28, 2003)

for under the car, i went to home depot and bought like 4 cans of expanding foam spray, lifted the car and went bananas, it used to rattle like all hell, not anymore.....the parts that rattle in my car are the rear center piece, a lil bit on the rear cabin speaker panel, and the license plate, keep in mind i have like 4 layers of fatmat on my trunk lid alone......most of the rattle stopped, the spoiler also rattles too tho. the license plate irritates me because i took a piece of fatmat and applied it to the rear of the plate itself, and and on the outside of the car, and for the frame around the plate, i applied double sided foam tape, and it still rattles. the spoiler is gonna rattle no matter what i do to it....


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## schauhan (Apr 29, 2004)

Wouldn't the easiest way to stop the licence plate rattle be to drill two holes on the lower side of licence plate put the nuts and bolts and tighten them up.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

schauhan said:


> Wouldn't the easiest way to stop the licence plate rattle be to drill two holes on the lower side of licence plate put the nuts and bolts and tighten them up.


On most vehicles the lower mounting points are already there. What worked best for me in the past is to try and isolate the metal-metal contact between the car and the license plate. If you go to your local hardware store, you can get rubber grommets to place on the screw between the plate and the car, which helps keep them from rubbing. No more rattling.

Most sound deadener is alike, although Dynamat Extreme seems to be top dog, you can easily get acceptable results by paying much less. I used RaamMat 60 because it had a good reputation and it was cheap. The important part when installing it is make sure your surface is clean of all grease/grime. What I did was used soapy water to do a large cleaning, then let it dry, and came back with some acetone to get all the grease/grime off. If you do not make your surface free of contaminants, then the deadener will not stick on well and your hard work will be for nothing. Another good cleaner is plain rubbing isopropyl alcohol. I wouldnt use any other cleaner, because you dont know if they themselves will leave a film. If you are going to install it in the winter time, wait for a nice sunny day, as this installs better when its warm and flexible, or you can use a hair dryer to get it warmed up. Try to use semi-smaller pieces, as it is easier to work with, like an 8"x8" piece or something like that, and overlap your edges on the next piece. For the hard to reach places you can get stuff like Edead, which is sprayable deadener, it comes in a regular aerosol rattle can.

If you really want some cheap stuff, look around at local roofing supply stores for a product called "Peel N Seal" which is about the same dang stuff as everything else, and costs rediculously cheaper.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Azgrower said:


> For the hard to reach places you can get stuff like Edead, which is sprayable deadener, it comes in a regular aerosol rattle can.


actually it comes in a paint can, you have to use a paint brush or a special paint sprayer to get it in the car, just like if it was actual paint. Beware though, after you're done it will look like a smurf exploded in your car.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> actually it comes in a paint can, you have to use a paint brush or a special paint sprayer to get it in the car, just like if it was actual paint. Beware though, after you're done it will look like a smurf exploded in your car.


I do believe they sell the rattle can too.

Edit...never mind I was thinking of a different product...I stand corrected.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edeadv3.htm


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## schauhan (Apr 29, 2004)

Azgrower said:


> On most vehicles the lower mounting points are already there. What worked best for me in the past is to try and isolate the metal-metal contact between the car and the license plate. If you go to your local hardware store, you can get rubber grommets to place on the screw between the plate and the car, which helps keep them from rubbing. No more rattling.


My theory is that if there is no possibility of movement between the two metal parts then there will be no rattle. Rattle requires at least some space for movement. I have not yet tried but I firmly believe that there will be no rattle if the license plate screws are properly tightened at all four points. No claims though untill I try myself.

No doubt rubber grommet will help plenty if the plate screws start to get loose.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

You could either use a lock washer or the lock nuts to prevent the bolts from coming loose. But from my experiences, no matter how tight you get it on there, dirt gets behind the plate and causes major paint damage to your bumper. (at least in the front of the cars).


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## rhynorock (Aug 7, 2004)

Like what was mentioned earlier in this thread, canned expanding insulation is the niftiest idea you could use. You can get the stuff just about anywhere (they have this stuff at wal mart for cryin out loud) and its cheap as hell. And if it leaks out of something to where its exposed to people's view, just take a razor blade and slice it off. A pal of mine drilled little holes in the body panels of his CRX before he painted em and just filled the whole car with spray insulation, then Bondoed the holes. Now you can barely hear the car at full blast from the outside. Saved him a lotta headache with noise ordinances as well heheh.


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## schauhan (Apr 29, 2004)

rhynorock said:


> Like what was mentioned earlier in this thread, canned expanding insulation is the niftiest idea you could use. You can get the stuff just about anywhere (they have this stuff at wal mart for cryin out loud) and its cheap as hell. And if it leaks out of something to where its exposed to people's view, just take a razor blade and slice it off. A pal of mine drilled little holes in the body panels of his CRX before he painted em and just filled the whole car with spray insulation, then Bondoed the holes. Now you can barely hear the car at full blast from the outside. Saved him a lotta headache with noise ordinances as well heheh.



That sounds like the finest idea so far for keeping the outside noise out. :cheers:


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

What happens is you ever want to get into your panel and run some speaker wire? Or what about power windows, wont the foam fawk up the window guide? I see that in the truck area it would be a benefit. Not trying to be an ass, just want information


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## schauhan (Apr 29, 2004)

Azgrower said:


> What happens is you ever want to get into your panel and run some speaker wire? Or what about power windows, wont the foam fawk up the window guide? I see that in the truck area it would be a benefit. Not trying to be an ass, just want information



This is very logical question. I believe here one just need to use the judgement. Because there are plenty of places within the car body which are hollow and you can insert the foam easily to create the sound barrier. In case you need to run the wires there then just run a metal wire through and through which will be able to route an electrical wire easily, or simply take off this foamy thing since this is so soft, it will come out fast, run the wires and then add the foam again. 

Even in window there might be some space between the glass and the outter skin, which could possibly be filled with this sprayon foam, but not very sure.


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

Azgrower said:


> What happens is you ever want to get into your panel and run some speaker wire? Or what about power windows, wont the foam fawk up the window guide? I see that in the truck area it would be a benefit. Not trying to be an ass, just want information


that DOES happen.

actually, it was either here, or on b15sentra.net that someone tried it, and subsequently spent 10 or so hours getting it all out. it fucks up the window guide regardless.
trust me. go with the tried and true methods. use dynamat / b-quiet /etc

it works MUCH better.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

Speaking of expandable foam, check out how this guy used it for his door panel modifications:
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/7886/9


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

Azgrower said:


> Speaking of expandable foam, check out how this guy used it for his door panel modifications:
> http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/7886/9



thats actually quite brilliant....it never occurred to me to grab a dremel and shape foam with it. that'd certainly be a hell of a lot easier. damn. that gives me an idea for my subs....that'd be a LOT of foam though  lol


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## Russia (Jul 24, 2003)

The part that rattled the most for me that I had to soundeaden the fuck out of was the....


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