# Hi! Newbie here. Sentra problems(01 SE)



## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

This isnt the best way to introduce myself but it got me to sign up to this wonderful forum. My 2001 Sentra SE is sick 

One morning while driving i noticed almost no power/acceleration, It would hesitate as the rpms climbed. More like jitter as the rpms climbed. Its fine in neutral, both idling and reving. There was always a check engine light on, Had issues getting rid of it. 

After a painful drive home, I borrowed my friends scanner, Got 4 codes. p0171(system to lean) p0325(knock sensor malfunction) po733(3rd gear ratio) p0134(o2 circuit no activity). I cleared the codes. The p0325(knock sensor code came right back).

Next morning i had to painfuly drive it to work. Down the block. After getting home i ran the scanner again to see if anything new showed up, At this point my light was still off. Scanner read no codes at all. I was told to check the cat by putting my hand on the exaust to see if there was flowing exaust and that the exaust wasnt to hot, Seemed fine, Was able to keep my hand there without burning it. That is where im at.

On a side note the problem seemed to get better as it warmed up, Didnt go away but was able to get through the gears easier after warming up, Any advice would be apreciated. Thanks for reading!!!


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

I also have snapshots of the Lived Data if that helps. THANKS.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I would start with obtaining a copy of Nissan TSB #NTB02-01, which is for 01-02 Sentras with the SR20DE and stored codes P0134 and/or P0171. If the TSB applies, you'll need to replace the oxygen sensor with Nissan P/N 22690-4M820 and reprogram the ECM with an updated program (which will likely mean a trip to your Nissan dealer). Google search for the TSB and if you can't find it, you should be able to locate one in .pdf form in the "knowledge base" at NissanHelp.com (which you may have to register, first, to access). If after that the driveability concerns still exist, I would continue with further diagnosis. The P0733 could be due to a bad shift solenoid "A," bad clutch pack or hydraulic circuit issue. Leave the P0325 code for last, because it will set if the engine is not running correctly.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

smj999smj said:


> I would start with obtaining a copy of Nissan TSB #NTB02-01, which is for 01-02 Sentras with the SR20DE and stored codes P0134 and/or P0171. If the TSB applies, you'll need to replace the oxygen sensor with Nissan P/N 22690-4M820 and reprogram the ECM with an updated program (which will likely mean a trip to your Nissan dealer). Google search for the TSB and if you can't find it, you should be able to locate one in .pdf form in the "knowledge base" at NissanHelp.com (which you may have to register, first, to access). If after that the driveability concerns still exist, I would continue with further diagnosis. The P0733 could be due to a bad shift solenoid "A," bad clutch pack or hydraulic circuit issue. Leave the P0325 code for last, because it will set if the engine is not running correctly.


Thanks for the reply and info, I did a quick google on that tsb. came across a carmd.com site and such where you could enter the tsb but nothing was available on there site, I will check out the knowledge base when i get a chance. The p0733 is an old friend of mine, I have tried in the past to get rid of it but always seems to come back. I havent had a chance to disconnect the o2 and see how it runs, I should be able to do that this afternoon, Thanks again for the info!!


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

UPDATE: I disconnected the o2 on the Manifold, Getting same problem, maybe even a little bit worse then before. Did not trigger a light. Next step is disconnect the exaust slightly to see if the cats are bad.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Disconnecting the O2 sensor and getting the same problem doesn't mean your vehicle does not require the fix as stated in the TSB. When an O2 sensor circuit is "open," it puts the ECM into O2 sensor "fail safe," which causes the ECM to internally bypass the O2 sensor circuit and us a reference voltage of 0.33v. So, if the O2 sensor was broken internally, disconnecting it would not have likely caused any change in performance and the only way to check this is by viewing the sensor datastream on a scantool. The TSB may or may not correct your problem, but it still may apply and should be performed, if it does.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

smj999smj said:


> Disconnecting the O2 sensor and getting the same problem doesn't mean your vehicle does not require the fix as stated in the TSB. When an O2 sensor circuit is "open," it puts the ECM into O2 sensor "fail safe," which causes the ECM to internally bypass the O2 sensor circuit and us a reference voltage of 0.33v. So, if the O2 sensor was broken internally, disconnecting it would not have likely caused any change in performance and the only way to check this is by viewing the sensor datastream on a scantool. The TSB may or may not correct your problem, but it still may apply and should be performed, if it does.


Hi. Thanks again for replying and adding info. I understand there may be a TSB but i feel that after 120 miles and im just now getting these symptoms that the TSB may not be a priority. I have some live data of to O2S B1 S1, It varys from .290 .510 .380 .210 .440 O2S B1 S2 stays constant at .290. There may be other numbers that i didnt capture but these all happened at idle. Thanks again.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Light finally came back on. Got three codes. A p0135(02 code) and 2 about the gear ratio. Im gonna replace the 02. But i was told that a bad 02 doesnt cause these type of problems.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Update: replaced the upper 02. Stalled first drive after. Has never done that prior. After restart car seemed to get alot better not 100% but alot better. Still slugish. This morning from a cold start acted as if no part was replaced and went back to old symptoms. Should i try the maf next?


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Update: i test the cats. They are ok. I tested every fuses. They are ok. P0135 and p0134 came back. I now have a p0100 but im thinking that showed up yesterday when i unplugged the maf. Car now stutters likes its gonna stall on cold start but corrects itself after. Car completely undrivable and wouldnt pass 2k wjen it was drivable. Heres a link to some live data https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPlr...e_gdata_player


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

I forgot to mention the belt squeeks as well when car is started at cold, then goes away after a minute.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

Car completely undrivable and wouldnt pass 2k wjen it was drivable. 

sounds like it is in fail safe (as mentioned above)


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

SPEEDO said:


> Car completely undrivable and wouldnt pass 2k wjen it was drivable.
> 
> sounds like it is in fail safe (as mentioned above)


I agree. Im also thinking may have electrical issues since the p0134 code came stating that bank1 s1 not detected, Theres a brand new OEM 02 in it.


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## Lavernesmith (Jun 12, 2013)

Welcome to the forum and have a great time out here...


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Lavernesmith said:


> Welcome to the forum and have a great time out here...


Thanks for the welcome!!!


After viewing more live data noticed the upper 02 voltage drops to zero when you rev. Probably explains the p0134 code . Heres a vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnrbDkxJ8zE&feature=youtube_gdata_player .


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Also i check the fuel preasure, All seems good.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

Just an update, Havent had a chance to look at the car the past couple days. Due too work and the 4th and now packing to move. I have been driving the short distance i needed to go. Doing a snails pace, As long as i fethered the gas very gently i could get it places but that was obviously a bad idea. Now the car stalls when you try to drive it. Ugh.


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## permaspooked (May 30, 2013)

I was able to tinker a bit today. I started by removing the 02 to apease my friend who swears its the cat. Turns out not the cat clogging up. I also cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and added techron to the gas to see if that helps at all. It revs fine in park again. 

But still bogs down and misfires in drive. I removed the plug wires creating an ark between the wire and plugs for any iregularity. None spotted. I do wanna add that the ect shows it at 200 degrees farenheit. there seems to be a white powdery looking substance on the ducting between the maf and the throttlebody. Noticed while i was cleaning the MAF. I also believe it may have the wrong battery in it. It might have the battery for a 1.8 in it but dont know if this changes anything.


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