# Seat interchange question.



## Sailor_Beavis (Aug 28, 2002)

I'm interested in upgrading the seats in my 1997 Sentra GXE. I like the stock seats, but they just don't have enough lumbar support for long trips. And I don't want to spend $500 for racing buckets; this is only going to be a lightly modded car (CAI, exhaust, and some creature comforts).

This is my first import car; I primarily deal with Fords and Chevrolets. I am used to being able to take seats from one car, say a junked Thunderbird Turbo-Coupe or Mustang, and swap them into say, a Tempo or Escort. While those cars share different chassis mounting points for the seat tracks, the tracks themselves are interchangeable.

So here's my question: from what Nissan vehicle can I pull a more luxurious set of seats, preferably one with power lumbar, and successfully bolt onto my Sentra's seat tracks? Will an Infiniti G20 work?


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

for the most part, all nissan/infinity front seats are interchangable. And yes, the G20 seat swap is not only doable, but it's pretty popular. Another popular option is to find some B13 SE-R seats if they are in good condition.


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## Sailor_Beavis (Aug 28, 2002)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *for the most part, all nissan/infinity front seats are interchangable. And yes, the G20 seat swap is not only doable, but it's pretty popular. Another popular option is to find some B13 SE-R seats if they are in good condition. *


Nice. I asked about the G20 because I've read it shares a chassis and other parts with the Sentra. But it's better to know that I can pull a set of seats from an Altima or a B13 SE-R, since both are more plentiful and would be much less expensive than a set of G20 leather buckets... 

I've enjoyed having the Nissan thus far - it has a lot of spunk for such a small car - but I have issues with it, like its handling (13" wheels suck, alloys or not) and comfort. I took a two-day trip in this car; my back was killing me and my feet kept falling asleep even with the cruise on 90% of the time. 

I may put this on hold though, in favor of a cone filter and some STBs. Not sure yet, but I'll be sure to take pictures for everyone to see when I get it done.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

yeah, but just think, even with the stock springs and stock 13s, it still handles better than a civic . Let me tell you something, so far, I added some Eibach prokit springs and some 16" wheels (205-40-16 kuhmos) and it handles better than most cars I've ever driven and most of my friends agree. I'm adding some STB's (F & R) either today or tomorrow and I epect it to handle awesome from that too. I'm thinking of putting in some new seats in the future (probably B13 SE-R) b/c these stock seats don't hold me worth sh*t.


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## V i V i D 200sx (Sep 17, 2002)

what " drop did you get for the eibachs? prokit is 1.5" right? also, did you notice if you bottom out a lot more, like sport compact car says? this is the only reason i am considering getting tien coilovers. (i hope they make an application for the b14, i havent checked yet.)


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

yeah, they're 1.5". They do bottom out, but I don't feel it too bad. I plan on getting some AGX dampers and some bumpstops later on. Coilovers would be the wiser choice especially ground control. Anyway, I installed my Bomz STBs tonight and I likee. I got both the front and the back and I can definately feel a difference in my turning. I wasn't sure what I was to expect from the STBs but I can definately feel that when I turn the wheel, the car's chassis is more responsive to my command. I like my current setup in the fact that I can make a sharp turn and I don't feel the Gs from the turn like I used to, the car stays more level and in control.


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## nitestridar (Jun 29, 2002)

*off topic*

 

how hard was the rear install?


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## jon_Gee (Aug 7, 2002)

id like to hear how that rear STB was to install as well..just ordered my bomz, ups says they should be here on the 1st, whee! no longer stock! (sorta...). i dont even know whats going to happen to the sub box, which is bumgie corded against my rear seat-to-trunk opening (i tore out the seats over the summer). should be fun for an afternoon or so.

jong

1997 GA16DE, you really think the ground control coilovers are the way to go? ive known too many people with coilover problems....besides, why would you want to raise and lower your car (asides from trying to rice out and hit the pavement when youre not racing)? it seems that as long as you go with the tokico's, youre usually good to go without bottoming out problems. what's your take on this?


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

*Re: off topic*



selrider99 said:


> *
> 
> how hard was the rear install? *


It was fairly easy, in words, it seems like a long process, but the install is straight foreward and it took me about 10 minutes for each bar. With Bomz, you first remove the two "rings" or "hands" from the bar. (I like to fold the seats down and work from inside the car since there's a much better reach) unclip the carpet from around the trunk/back seat opening and pull back the carpet to expose the upper shock assembly. Remove the 2 outside nuts from around the mount and place the ring (currently unattached from the bar) onto the bolts accordingly. Place the nuts back onto the bolts with the ring between the upper mount and the nut and tighten securely. Do the same to the opposite side. once the rings are tight on both of the mounts. With just the rings attached, take the carpet and fold it back into place to hide the rings. With your hand, feel through the carpet to see where the ring is and with a sharp knife cut out a square in the carpet for where the bar will be inserted. With the carpet back in place, take the bar and rebolt it to one of the rings leaving the attachment bolt loose. Bring the bar to the other side. You'll probably notice that the bar doesn't line up with the other ring. Twist the bar around and adjust the screws on the end of the bars to resize the length so it fits snug. Once the holes line up place in the other attachment bolt. tighten the attachment bolts on both sides (a large allan key might help with the Bomz bars). then tighten the adjustment nuts on the bars so there are no moving parts and everything is tight.

Phew. Lotsa words but very simple.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

jon_Gee said:


> *id like to hear how that rear STB was to install as well..just ordered my bomz, ups says they should be here on the 1st, whee! no longer stock! (sorta...). i dont even know whats going to happen to the sub box, which is bumgie corded against my rear seat-to-trunk opening (i tore out the seats over the summer). should be fun for an afternoon or so.*


I really like the Bomz bar now that I have them (front and rear) they fit nicely and the front doesn't bang against my engine or hood. The rear bar doesn't take too much room. I would of course remove the box before starting, errr. Who knows, now you can attach the bungee cords to the new bar now (LOL).


> *1997 GA16DE, you really think the ground control coilovers are the way to go? ive known too many people with coilover problems....besides, why would you want to raise and lower your car (asides from trying to rice out and hit the pavement when youre not racing)? it seems that as long as you go with the tokico's, youre usually good to go without bottoming out problems. what's your take on this? *


well, it's not just about raising and lowering it constantly that makes coilovers desireable. It's the performance benefit too. Sure it's great that if you go to some show, you can lower it to make it look more impressive. But if you're into getting performance outta your suspension, GC coilovers have several major advantages. first of all when you get them, you can set the height exactly as you want it without the set height of regular springs. Also coilovers are much stiffer and you can also specify the spring rates when you order so there's no bottoming out and the ride is more performance-like. The GC coilovers aren't too bad in price. The only problems I've heard of people having with them is that they squeek for the break-in period. NPM has an issue on how to prevent the squeeking.

Boy, we really took this thread off topic.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

oh also, about the tokico thing. I'm not too fimiliar with their brand of dampers. If you still want to go with prokits, I suggest a good damper like KYB AGXs. I'm still running stock struts/shocks b/c I'm too poor to get them right now. I will tell you if you get springs, the prokits are top quality IMO. They only lower 1.5 which doesn't seem like much (especially in the front) but they are pretty good performancewise and they feel nice to me. Just don't get the sportlines or something like that, they are almost a joke. BTW, when you get struts, get the B13 front struts to put on your b14, they give you more travel and they make the front end match up with the back end in height (since my back end looks alot lower than my front).


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## jon_Gee (Aug 7, 2002)

*further off topic..*

i was actually considering bungee'n my sub to the bar, since i could actually have it face towards the rear that way, which is better according to audiophiles. i jsut need that damn spare tire cover, which i left back home in davenport. right now, theres that huge well for the tire, filled with a small toolkit, LeBra, amp ground cable, jumper cables, and assorted rags. hope i dont get a flat.

thanks for the breakdown on the coilovers, imo, it was very helpful, although i need some money now. when you said b13 struts, was that referring to aftermarket struts?


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## jon_Gee (Aug 7, 2002)

1997 GA16DE, nm about that last question (i.e., b13 struts....) i just read the eibach springs thread  now there's a great way to kill 2 hours while i should be doing homework.


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## V i V i D 200sx (Sep 17, 2002)

my box has velcro on each of the corners, actually 3 of them fell off, so it only has one now....(when it was sitting in the garage) and it sticks pretty good like that. that way you dont have the tacky bungee anymore


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