# How many of you use Mobil 1 Synthetic in your Frontiers?



## AGR (Oct 16, 2005)

I used it in my '03 MazdaSpeed (traded); and, I use it in my wife's Protege ES.

I owned the MazdaSpeed for 2yrs., 10mon. Upon trading it, it struck me how much I spent every 5,000 miles on oil.  Now; many people will agree that a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, is simply the best thing you can put in your engine. Even at Wal-mart, it is now about $5.00 per quart.

I guess what I am now thiinking is, unless I keep the vehicle past the warranty period, and even longer, I'm not so sure I really need to spend the money on an expensive synthetic oil such as Mobil 1.

Now; my wife intends on keeping her Protege for many years. She's not like me! Ha! So; I will probably continue to buy Mobil 1 for that car. It takes 3.7 qts. So; the total cost of the oil change is about $42.00. I buy the oil at Wal-Mart, the filter at the Mazda dealer, and I have a local privately owned shop do the work for $15.00. It works out well.

So; what is everyone doing with their Frontiers? Synthetic oil, or not? In my previous 2 Nissan trucks, I think I used Castrol GTX.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

Lots of good threads on this forum about motor oil.

Do a search using the word "synthetic" and/or various brand names such as "Mobil 1," "Castrol," "Pennzoil," etc ... 

To simply answer your question, I think Mobil 1 is a waste unless you go with drains of 5,000-7,500 miles. Many of todays conventional oils protect just as well for durations of 3,000 - 4,000 miles.


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## AGR (Oct 16, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> Lots of good threads on this forum about motor oil.
> 
> Do a search using the word "synthetic" and/or various brand names such as "Mobil 1," "Castrol," "Pennzoil," etc ...
> 
> To simply answer your question, I think Mobil 1 is a waste unless you go with drains of 5,000-7,500 miles. Many of todays conventional oils protect just as well for durations of 3,000 - 4,000 miles.



Yeah! I know all about searches. I was making some new conversation about it.  It's fun that way.

For me; changing oil every 3,000 miles ain't happenin'.  I drive about 350 miles weekly. I like it every 5,000. :thumbup: 

Sentra SE-R Spec V, huh? I drove one before I bought my 'Speed. Nice car. I was boosted to 200hp in the 'Speed. It rocked.


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## Triffid (Aug 25, 2005)

AGR said:


> I used it in my '03 MazdaSpeed (traded); and, I use it in my wife's Protege ES.
> 
> I owned the MazdaSpeed for 2yrs., 10mon. Upon trading it, it struck me how much I spent every 5,000 miles on oil.  Now; many people will agree that a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, is simply the best thing you can put in your engine. Even at Wal-mart, it is now about $5.00 per quart.
> 
> ...


I'm using Mobil 1 in our new Pathfinder... Seems to work good.........Triffid


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## abmobil (Nov 22, 2004)

Ive used Mobil1 in my 04 frontier since 11k. now has 25k.
I used it in my 97 hardbody all of its 150k life until it got totaled and it never leaked or burned a drop and that was with fairly hard use.
I also run it in my dads 01 supercharged crew which now has 105k and it also dosent burn or leak any.
M1 is a very good oil however im sure I would have seen similar results with conventional oil since I do keep it changed.
I change the M1 every 4k just because I like to and its cheap insurance but it could easily under my conditions go probably twice that.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

AGR said:


> I used it in my '03 MazdaSpeed (traded); and, I use it in my wife's Protege ES.
> 
> I owned the MazdaSpeed for 2yrs., 10mon. Upon trading it, it struck me how much I spent every 5,000 miles on oil.  Now; many people will agree that a synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, is simply the best thing you can put in your engine. Even at Wal-mart, it is now about $5.00 per quart.
> 
> ...


I just put Amsoil synthetics in my gearbox and diff. Today I picked up Mobile1 5w-30 synthetic for my next oil change (10k). From everything I've ever heard or read, it won't do anything for extending the life of my engine (assuming I changed my conventional oil at 3-4k). Supposedly I could drop some very small amount of time at the track (yeah, I go there a lot with my 4-cyl Frontier) and possibly improve MPG by a very small amount, but I doubt it'll be enough to notice. Personally, I just kind of like the idea of the synthetics. Oh, they are supposed to keep everything a little cooler (reduced friction I guess) than conventional. BTW, I bought the 5-quart container for $21.00 so I got it for $4.20/qt. Also, have you checked out the 5k and 7.5k oils (I think they're conventional) that Mobile1 has out there?


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## abmobil (Nov 22, 2004)

Synthetics are extremely shear stable compared to conventionals meaning they will maintain there grade better and longer especially under tough conditions.
These trucks will last period as long as the oil is changed but all 4 cyl nissan trucks and 05 and up v6 trucks have timing chains that like to shear oil.
These motors can be tough on oil which is another reason to use synthetics.

Jerry, how is the amsoil working out so far in the tranny?
Is the shift quality at least as good as the stock fluid was?


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## NismoFrontin' (Oct 4, 2005)

I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic since I bought my truck. Outperforms pretty much every oil on the market. Use it in the engine, tranny, and diff. Although, if you're changing it every 5,000 miles, you're just wasting your money. Synthetics are made to last anywhere from 5 to 10,000 miles depending on different conditions. I generally change mine every 6 months as a rule of thumb, even though Mobil recommends every year. Tends to get dark after about 6 months.


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## TurboedMSP (Feb 14, 2005)

AGR, I too used to have a 03 MSP and have seen you on the msprotege forums. I have a 2005 pathfinder now and love it but miss my speed too.

Good luck,

Aaron :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

I use it in my 04 Frontier. The stuff works great and if you change your oil every 3,000 miles, it is just as cheap as the other stuff(ALMOST). I run it in my truck for about 12,000-sometimes 15,000 miles. I change my oil filter every 3,000 miles. Here is a website that did a test on Mobile one full syn and its life expectancy. I encourage you to check it out. http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

Maybe you all know this already, and I am just lacking. I talked to my service manager the other day and he told me to quit using Fram oil filters. I was complaining of excess engine noise and thought this guy thinks he can trick me into buying sometimes expensive Nissan parts. Well, I decided to give it a shot, just to say that I tried, and to my surprise, it really did cut back on the engine noise. I have know idea why, and I don't think it was all in my head because my wife and a few of my friends said that they noticed a difference too. Whether or not it being true as a all the time thing I don't know. Maybe this was just a coincidence.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

mitchell35758 said:


> Maybe you all know this already, and I am just lacking. I talked to my service manager the other day and he told me to quit using Fram oil filters. I was complaining of excess engine noise and thought this guy thinks he can trick me into buying sometimes expensive Nissan parts. Well, I decided to give it a shot, just to say that I tried, and to my surprise, it really did cut back on the engine noise. I have know idea why, and I don't think it was all in my head because my wife and a few of my friends said that they noticed a difference too. Whether or not it being true as a all the time thing I don't know. Maybe this was just a coincidence.


Was the noise excessive at start up, or all of the time? Nissan filters (K&N for Nissan has it and I'm hoping the the Mobile1 filter for Nissans has it) have an anti-drainback feature that the Fram may not have. The anit-drainback feature is supposed to keep the filters from starting "dry" and starving other areas during start up. BTW, if you do a search on this, and probably any other automotive forum, you'll find threads and links to Web pages that really slam Fram as a bad filter.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

abmobil said:


> Jerry, how is the amsoil working out so far in the tranny?
> Is the shift quality at least as good as the stock fluid was?


Well, I've had no problems/issues with the Amsoil in the trans or diff. I wish I had a temp gauge for at least the transmission though 'cause I'm hoping the synthetic is going to make its life more comfortable.

There's a very good chance it's just in my head, but I think it may shift just a bit smoother. Before this truck, it had been a long time since I had a manual transmission, but I've never been impressed with the shift on this thing (it always seemed a bit bumpy and clunky); especially on startup. And on startup is where I think the "improvement' may be. All very subjective though.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

I have used Mobil1 in all my vehicles since the year 2000. at 5k drain intervals, the oil looks almost brand new when changing the oil. 

Note to AGR and TurboedMSP: I recognize both of you from msprotege.com. I had an '03.5 Protegé5 until July. Traded it in after the 4th instance of getting a VICS screw sucked into the intake.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

Last year I finally had to junk my old 86 Saab 900 16V turbo. The engine was fine, but every bit of wiring in the whole damned car was shot. We even got the ECU to smoke, TWICE, before it died. The motor had 316,000 miles and it was always run hard (a little extra boost, and some leaded airplane gas goes a looong way). We always ran Mobile 1. We changed the filter and topped it off every 5,000 mi. and changed the oil every 20,000 mi. 

At 185,000 miles the transmission was completely dead, and if anyone knows Saabs, the Tranny is actually the motors oil pan (Freakin' Swedes), so we went ahead and checked out the motor, thinking of a rebuild. What we found absolutely amazed us. The car was run for the first 30k of its life on regular oil for the break in period. Beyond that, the cylinder bores all measured NEW. The bearings and crank had ZERO wear, and the cams where absolutely perfect. This is according to several Sterret micrometers and good old Plastiguage. 

I'm sold. 

The only problem is that if there is any sort of oil leak with regular oil, then Mobile 1 will just pour out of it. It's not that Mobile 1 is thinner, it just whets mush better than traditional oil (it's part of what makes it such an excellent lubricant). 

I also like the fact that temps don't have nearly as much effect on it's viscosity. That is to say: it stays thick when it gets hot, and stays thin when it gets cold. Great for running hard in the desert, or for just starting the car in the arctic.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

jerryp58 said:


> Was the noise excessive at start up, or all of the time? Nissan filters (K&N for Nissan has it and I'm hoping the the Mobile1 filter for Nissans has it) have an anti-drainback feature that the Fram may not have. The anit-drainback feature is supposed to keep the filters from starting "dry" and starving other areas during start up. BTW, if you do a search on this, and probably any other automotive forum, you'll find threads and links to Web pages that really slam Fram as a bad filter.


It did seem excessive at start up, but it did seem to run smoother also all the time after I made the change from the Fram filter. Thanks for giving me a search topic to look at. I haven't yet checked it out, but will do so soon. I have always thought highly of Fram and always bought Fram over anyone else, especially STP, which I assume took the place of Deustch(however it is spelled) at autozone. I use to be real loyal to that company before they sorta phased out or into STP(whatever happen to them). 

Probably a topic for another thread, but just curious, does anyone know what happen to the above named company? I don't even know if I came close to spelling it correctly. 

Thanks


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## inyourface1650 (Oct 6, 2005)

You guys might find this interesting.
My 2005 Frontier is a NTCNA Fleet Vehicle.
NTCNA= Nissan Technical Center North America. 
My particular truck is based out of the Nissan Test Track (ATC) in Stanfield, AZ. Anyway, for years my (free) Jiffy lube experiance was always at 3,000 Miles. 
However, recently, NTCNA decided that AZ was no longer Hazardous Duty, and that the oil only needs to be changed every 7500. 
From what I understand, typically its 7500, but because certain conditions are hard on oil (AZ-120F in summer) they have the other oil change option at 3750 Miles. Now the OIl companies just rounded down to 3000.
Thats how I understand it anyway. 

I pulled some oil from my 05 fronty with ~5k miles on it, and it looks nearly as good as it did new. So maybe they were right....
I mean these are the guys that build and test the vehicles.

My $.02


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## Meta (Sep 28, 2005)

I plan to switch to Mobil1-Trisynthetic (5W-30) after break-in. I've used it in all my vehicles for years and like knowing it's in there (even if it's overkill). I'd really almost prefer the oil change interval was 3K miles. It's just much easier to remember than 3,750 (beyond the first oil change). I guess I can just use the Trip B counter for oil change intervals. I have the extended warranty so I don't want any contention of service intervals because I decided to wait for an easier number like 4K or 5K miles.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

Meta said:


> I plan to switch to Mobil1-Trisynthetic (5W-30) after break-in. I've used it in all my vehicles for years and like knowing it's in there (even if it's overkill). I'd really almost prefer the oil change interval was 3K miles. It's just much easier to remember than 3,750 (beyond the first oil change). I guess I can just use the Trip B counter for oil change intervals. I have the extended warranty so I don't want any contention of service intervals because I decided to wait for an easier number like 4K or 5K miles.


Go with 3333 miles. It's really easy; change oil every time you have 3333, 6666, or 9999 for your last four digits.

I'm not really worried about 5k intervals. The maintenance book shows 3750 for severe duty and 7500 for light duty. I take it pretty easy on my truck (no off road or heavy, frequent towing), so I think I can qualify for somewhere in between.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

I'm tellin you, a filter at 5k, and an oil change at 20k, the saab only died due to electrical issues. Now I never did have to satisfy a dealers warranty, I've always just kept 'em longer than the dealer seems to like. I sure am fond of having to change that oil only once a year. Cheap too! 20k is a little scary if your not used to it, but I've seen the results. I've beat the hell out of numerous motors for long periods and I've never worn one out. I did blow one up (I was kind of trying too), but I've never worn one out. 

I do agree, however, that if you change at 3k with anything, even the cheapest sludge you can find, that you are not likely to wear out a motor. I just love my annual oil changes. Mabe I'm lazy, Don't ask my wife.


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## Meta (Sep 28, 2005)

jerryp58 said:


> Go with 3333 miles. It's really easy; change oil every time you have 3333, 6666, or 9999 for your last four digits.
> 
> I'm not really worried about 5k intervals. The maintenance book shows 3750 for severe duty and 7500 for light duty. I take it pretty easy on my truck (no off road or heavy, frequent towing), so I think I can qualify for somewhere in between.


That's a pretty good idea. Thanks. :thumbup: 



johnnyhammers said:


> I'm tellin you, a filter at 5k, and an oil change at 20k, the saab only died due to electrical issues. Now I never did have to satisfy a dealers warranty, I've always just kept 'em longer than the dealer seems to like. I sure am fond of having to change that oil only once a year. Cheap too! 20k is a little scary if your not used to it, but I've seen the results. I've beat the hell out of numerous motors for long periods and I've never worn one out. I did blow one up (I was kind of trying too), but I've never worn one out.
> 
> I do agree, however, that if you change at 3k with anything, even the cheapest sludge you can find, that you are not likely to wear out a motor. I just love my annual oil changes. Mabe I'm lazy, Don't ask my wife.


 :jawdrop: Wow!
I'm pretty sure 20K oil change intervals would void my warranty. BTW, how do you change the filter at 5K without changing the oil until 20K?


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

One wonderful thing about the saabs is that theyy dont (or didn't) use any oil. They didn't burn it, they didn't leak it; the stuff just didn't go away. But other cars did use some; the 98 Buick for example, used about 1 full quart over the 5k interval. As for the filter change, the filter usually inly spills out about 1/3-1/2 quart and a little more for draining the whole top end of the motor, but keep in mind that the top end drains back into the oil pan when the engine stops, so there's really very little oil left. Next time you change oil in your truck try pulling the filter 1st just to see how much comes out. If you really wanted to waste some time you could check your oil level, remove, drain, and reinstall the old filter, run the truck for a minute, then recheck your oul level to see just how much you loose. It will probably be a little different with each vehicle, but the filter just doesn't hold that much oil. 
This is why I say at 5k you change filter and add a quart or just top it off. 

Another little testimony: The 86 Fiat (Bertone) X1/9 I mentioned was wrecked in a spectacular fashion by a girl whom I allowed to drive it. She flipped the car after sliding side long into an embankment at about 30 mph. The aluminum oil pan was broken wide open. We sat for what felt like ten minutes, but was probably only two, hanging upside down by our seat belts. The girl had just frozen up; she just didn't turn the car when the road turned. the whole point is that she was still looking strait ahaid with her hands on the wheel and her foot on the gas. THE ENGINE WAS STILL RUNNING, and ran for a total of about 5 minutes with no oil. I'm really surprized that it didn't run out of gas being upide down and all. So the car was a wreck and was now just a good educational tool, for tearing apart and learning hard lessons. whenI dissasymbled the motor, just like the saab at 185k this motor was in excelent shape for being run for 5 minutes with no oil. it only had about 90k on it so it should have been OK but with no oil I was sure it was shot. now I just wish I had put the motor back together. But hey, when your'e 17, you don't make the best descisions, like letting a chick learn to drive stick with my poor little Fiat. She was cute as hell, but in hind sight, The car was sweeter and cuter than she was, and way more pleasurable.


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## Meta (Sep 28, 2005)

johnnyhammers said:


> One wonderful thing about the saabs is that theyy dont (or didn't) use any oil. They didn't burn it, they didn't leak it; the stuff just didn't go away. But other cars did use some; the 98 Buick for example, used about 1 full quart over the 5k interval. As for the filter change, the filter usually inly spills out about 1/3-1/2 quart and a little more for draining the whole top end of the motor, but keep in mind that the top end drains back into the oil pan when the engine stops, so there's really very little oil left. Next time you change oil in your truck try pulling the filter 1st just to see how much comes out. If you really wanted to waste some time you could check your oil level, remove, drain, and reinstall the old filter, run the truck for a minute, then recheck your oul level to see just how much you loose. It will probably be a little different with each vehicle, but the filter just doesn't hold that much oil.
> This is why I say at 5k you change filter and add a quart or just top it off.
> 
> Another little testimony: The 86 Fiat (Bertone) X1/9 I mentioned was wrecked in a spectacular fashion by a girl whom I allowed to drive it. She flipped the car after sliding side long into an embankment at about 30 mph. The aluminum oil pan was broken wide open. We sat for what felt like ten minutes, but was probably only two, hanging upside down by our seat belts. The girl had just frozen up; she just didn't turn the car when the road turned. the whole point is that she was still looking strait ahaid with her hands on the wheel and her foot on the gas. THE ENGINE WAS STILL RUNNING, and ran for a total of about 5 minutes with no oil. I'm really surprized that it didn't run out of gas being upide down and all. So the car was a wreck and was now just a good educational tool, for tearing apart and learning hard lessons. whenI dissasymbled the motor, just like the saab at 185k this motor was in excelent shape for being run for 5 minutes with no oil. it only had about 90k on it so it should have been OK but with no oil I was sure it was shot. now I just wish I had put the motor back together. But hey, when your'e 17, you don't make the best descisions, like letting a chick learn to drive stick with my poor little Fiat. She was cute as hell, but in hind sight, The car was sweeter and cuter than she was, and way more pleasurable.


Maybe much of the oil remained because the car was upside down (when running)? Glad nobody was seriously hurt and you're here to post about it. I don't know that this Nissan engine is going to be as gentle on the oil as the SAAB engine. I think I'll stick to my normal 3K (or maybe 3333) oil/filter changes. May not be necessary but it's not that expensive or difficult and I live in the "better safe then sorry camp". My sister-in-law has had Saab's for years and loves them (though she's had a bit more trouble with them post GM).


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## 05 NISMO 4X4 (Jun 4, 2005)

I've used Mobile 1 in my trucks for the past 7 years with no complaints. I've never even considered changing an oil filter without doing a complete oil change! I may have to try it next time. I know the M1 can safely go 10,000 miles, and if I chage the filter every 3,000 miles and the oil every 6,000, I'm still well within the light duty maintenance guidelines and will save a good bit on oil. The filter is definately the cheapest part of the oil change, and that's where all the gunk should end up. I started using the NAPA Filters which are made by Wix. I hear good things about them so I thought I'd give them a try...


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

Biggest injury was a little cut on my big toe. the oil got all over the exhaust and burst into flames, so I ran to fill a bottle from a nearby stream and cut my toe on a stick. I know "water on an oil fire" but it cooled things down just enough to stop burning. 

Thank God for seatbelts. 

Another thing about Mobil 1 I like is that it doesn't burn or carbonize in you engine until a much higher temp. this cuts way down on carbon bits floating through the oil and makes for less carbon buildup on some parts. 

Does any body remember the old M1 oil in the frying pan T.V. ads from the late 80's/early 90's? 
Classic!


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## OBYWAN (Dec 6, 2004)

*synthetic oil*

I've been driving for many years (don't ask) and for all of my vehicles, I've always stuck with the manufactures recomendations as listed in the owners manuals. I've never had any problems with any of my vehicles related to oil or filters. This was including domestic as well as imported (and I've had plenty). Don't get me wrong. I'm sure the synthetics are all right, but why spend the extra money if you don't have to?

:cheers:


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

OBYWAN said:


> I've been driving for many years (don't ask) and for all of my vehicles, I've always stuck with the manufactures recomendations as listed in the owners manuals. I've never had any problems with any of my vehicles related to oil or filters. This was including domestic as well as imported (and I've had plenty). Don't get me wrong. I'm sure the synthetics are all right, but why spend the extra money if you don't have to?
> 
> :cheers:


I can agree with you, but in the long run, it could be cheaper using sythetic. I posted a link to a site were some guy was testing sythetic oil every thousand miles or so using some company to analyze the oil. They said the oil lasted (don't remember for sure now) between 12,000-16,000 miles before it was in need of replacement. Of course with regular oil filter changes, you will have to top it off with fresh syn oil. Point in saying that is when you pay 21 dollars for a big bottle at walmart, you still have some left over for the top offs. 

Assuming that you let the syn go for 12,000 miles, if you buy regular oil at 1.50 and change the oil every 3000 miles (also assuming just 4 quarts), you will have spent 24 dollars. Thats more than mobile one full syn. (5qt bottle)

And if you let the MB1 full syn go for 15,000 miles, you end up paying 30 dollars using regular oil. So, really, MB1 full syn is cheaper if you utilize it to its fullest.

My dad has used full syn in all of his vehicles that he has owned for at least the last 10 years and let it go for about 15,000 miles at a time, never one single engine problem relating to oil and engine wear etc. 
I have used it since I was 16 and I got my first car, never any problems either. 

Here is the link again:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html


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## truckfan (Jan 3, 2005)

I used Castrol GTX in my '86.5 hardbody and changed it at 7500 mile intervals. No problems. What finally killed the vehicle wasn't the engine (heater fan caught on fire and burned the insides to charcoal). 

When I got my frontier, I started using Mobil 1 just because I was already using it in my F350 and it made oil buying / storage easier. Also I am not religious about changing oil anymore. It gets changed somewhere between 5000 and 9000 miles on both trucks. Since the interval varies so much, I figured the most stable lubricant would be a good investment. 

The F350 gets used hard (but infrequently) so I tend to change it's oil more toward the low number. The Nissan is lightly used but it is a daily driver so it tends to accumulate more miles before an oil change. Changing the oil on the Frontier is a PITA too compared to the F350 so there is another reason to put off changes. 

I even use Mobil 1 in my lawnmower. It gets started only every couple of weeks, goes immediately from cold to full power and is run for only a few minutes at a time. I change the oil every 3 or 4 years. Now that's a case of oil abuse if there ever was one IMHO! 

-tf


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## AGR (Oct 16, 2005)

Thanks for all the replies, everyone!  

I will continue on the tradition; and use Mobil 1 in my new truck, as well. :thumbup:


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## Fulltilt1 (May 14, 2004)

I use Rotella T synthetic 5W40 in my 02 CCLB V6, it gets over 100 in the summer. I've had great service, no runs drips or leaks in 57K+ miles. I started using it at 10K and change it about every 5K. I like that it comes in gallon bottles, enough for an oil change and a little for top off. However I haven't needed any for top off, so I just put it in a common jug and use it to change when I get enough.


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## Worren (Sep 18, 2005)

My last truck was a Ford that I started with regular oil. When it had about 9 grand on the clock I switched to Synthetic. Ran a mileage test: 11 city/18 hwy. After 3 more oil changes I noticed it seemed to be a tad more responsive so I ran another mileage test. This time I got 13/22. No way I thought so I waited until I put fresh synthetic in and did another test.
Once again 13/22. That isn't much to brag about but this was a big 351 V-8. I guess the proof came when I turned 250 grand and decided to trade for a Frontier. No oil leaks and looking through the oil filler hole revealed a nice golden color.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

I am not surprised at all to find people's mileage improves with Mobil 1. In each grade, Mobil 1 is thinner than most other oils. People also say they feel the engine has more power. Both statements are completely understandable given the reduced hydrodynamic drag inside the motor.

Same thing with Royal Purple ... which thins out rapidly (I believe) by design. 

Also, given the greater detergent ability of the oil, and some synthetic's ability to actively clean old deposits and sludge, I believe neglected engines can be helped/improved by switching to a good synthetic oil.

This principle is well illustrated by the current crop of over-exposed Castrol GTX TV ads showing sludge affecting the way an engine runs ... but unlike Castrol GTX, most real synthetics _actually_ do more than regular oils in preventing and even cleaning prior neglect.

However synthetics aren't 'magic' as some people tend to think they are ... and many of the mass-market brands are really highly-refined mineral oil and not true synthetics.

For intervals of about 4,000 and fewer miles, many conventional oils will perform just as well as Mobil 1 ... as long as the temps are moderate.

Mobil 1 is a true synthetic and is pretty good stuff ... in its current formulation. Amsoil and Red Line are also really good (and 'authentic') synthetic oils ... as are the 5W-40 gas-diesel oils put out by Shell and others.

However, I'm content to stick with Schaeffer's 5W-30 synthetic blend for $3 per quart.


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