# Common problems USED X-TRAIL



## anjp (Jul 3, 2016)

Hi folks,
New to the forums today. I'm in Ontario, Canada and am likely buying my buddy's old 2006 X-Trail 4x4 2.5L Bona Vista ed.
It's got quite a few km - 260,000 - but it will be reasonable.
I'm looking it over today to ensure I know what I'm getting into. I know it needs a rear wheel bearing and resonator/muffler exhaust work to pass safety. 

*My question*: is there anything else I should pay special attention to? Anything that commonly goes on these models? Esp at this stage on the odometer.

Thanks! I hope this works out for me; if so, you will see me on here quite a bit.

-AP


----------



## rcross (Jul 5, 2016)

Hello, I'm going to look at one tomorrow, a 2005 SE and was doing some research and came across the link below. I live in Montreal. Worth checking into!


Transport Canada orders Nissan Canada to inform vehicle owners of a safety defect - New ministerial


----------



## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Read pretty much all the threads in this forum and you ll find all the answers to your questions.

Envoyé de mon LG-D852 en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Like Otomodo said, you will get a good idea of what can go wrong or is needed to keep your X trail in good shape if you check out a number of threads in this forum. With a new to you X trail if you dont know the history of the fluids you may want to change them. Your major concerns should be the engine and transmission. Make sure they are operating well. My Bonavista has 170,000 kms, and I have written in other threads all I have done maintenance wise, and its great. Drives like a new car. Better than the new Rogue. Has only failed to start one morning in 6 years of ownership, and in its defence it was below -30 and the battery was 8 years old. Started two hours later with a charge on the battery mind you. Only other hick up was a recent code for a failed crankshaft sensor which caused me to stall one time for 5 minutes, before it would start up again. Replaced it and camshaft sensor and the responsiveness of the engine got even better.
Having those changed if they never have been would be a good move. Same deal for oxygen sensors and spark plugs. Transfer case and rear differential gear oil should be changed. Check that the coolant is good.
Any suspension work you do will only improve it. You will enjoy all the features on the Bonavista editions, and if you install a sat nav w bluetooth and a back up camera it makes for a pretty nice package! They are a serious deal used. Better than the CRVs, Ravs, Foresters of their vintage and less expensive in the used market because they were an orphaned model here.


----------



## rcross (Jul 5, 2016)

Thanks so much for the response to anjp's request for info! I went to look at an 2005 SE this morning that was a trade in at a dealer. The car had small areas of rust common to the model. The oil was clean and topped up. However, as soon as we got into the car it was obvious that a smoker had owned the car. We took it for a test drive because my friend (who is buying) wanted to see how it handled. She was impressed with the Xtrail but the smell was terrible. The sales rep said they could drop an "anti-smoke" bomb in the car and the odour would be gone. It's one that requires the AC running , windows up and it is a can of smoke that fills the car for an hour or so. I checked it out after and it's only a masking device. Nothing gets the smoke out not to mention the carcinogens associated with third hand smoke like that. As well, it as a FWD model only. My friend wants AWD or 4WD. I asked for the VIN so I could run the carproof/fax on it. The sales rep ran it for us. Came back with 2 major accidents of over $11000 in damages with filed police reports. It is a ridiculously low mileage car <70K) but the carproof showed some "errors" in the servicing kms. Car suddenly lost 40,000 kms when a new owner registered it. I have an OBD2 Blue Driver app and dongle but we didn't bother. 

That said, I was impressed with the vehicle. I love the way the dash is centred to make it easier to place the steering wheel on either side depending on the country they were being shipped to! 

I've always preferred to buy a car from the current owner. After a visit to the dealership I know why! Good luck anjp with your search! Let us know how it goes.

Cheers!


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

here is a beaut for you rcross
2005 Nissan X-trail VUS | autos et camions | Ouest de l'île | Kijiji

2005 Nissan X-trail VUS | autos et camions | Laval / Rive-Nord | Kijiji

Nissan x-trail 2005 | autos et camions | Laval / Rive-Nord | Kijiji

Any of one of those 3 can probably be had for around 3,000. Avoid accidented cars. Get a great deal from a private buyer and invest some of the savings into the car. I would prefer one with appropriate mileage for its age, and that was regularly driven and maintained, rather than one with suspiciously low mileage that has sat for long periods of its life. Its a timing chain not belt so make sure the engine sounds and runs good and you are away to the races. well maybe not but perhaps some trails. Good luck.


----------



## rcross (Jul 5, 2016)

Thanks Quadraria10! 2 of those popped on just today!

That fuel reservoir filler pipe recall is a bit scary! The SE we looked at today hadn't had the recall addressed. 

I agree with buying from an owner. I also agree that a car that sits is not always a car without problems. Thanks for the kijiji links

Cheers!


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi RCross
Glad to help. Regarding the fuel filler neck that was recalled, I don't see it as a big issue. Firstly its only certain vin numbers not every one sold in Canada. Mine was never recalled as an example. Two, with the vin its easy to check with Nissan Canada if its included and if its been done already. Three, the problem if memory serves was linked to a bad coating over a weld that could lead to pitting and a leak, but the bad batch was identified and by now I would think almost all have been changed.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Last thought for you. Keep in mind that the Bonavista editions are basically the equivalent of a 2007 model and in addition to the extra features you get a younger vehicle.
For example here is an example of one I would be prepared to pay a higher price for. New control arms, brakes and replaced audio system add to the value package. It is in Ottawa mind you.
2006 Nissan X-trail Bona Vista SUV, Crossover | used cars & trucks | Ottawa | Kijiji


----------



## anjp (Jul 3, 2016)

Thanks everyone. 
It was from a buddy so I'm not worried about him cheating me or needing to ship around for a good price. 
Just wondering what typically fails in these vehicles. I am fairly comfortable doing most of my own maintenance and will get started soon. 

Oh, picked it up yesterday and need to do a few things for the safety. Looks like it will need a new Rear wheel bearing...

It's also throwing a P0420 code. I know that's commonly associated with cat converter or o2 sensors. In this case there is a big leak between the resonator and muffler at the connecting flange. Could that contribute to the P0420 code or is it strictly cat/O2 up front?

Cheers


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I dont think that leak would cause that code. If I may suggest, have that flange cut out and a pipe over welded in to connect the two exhaust sections. Replacing them would be quite pricey as opposed to paying someone 40 or 50 to do the weld, which is what I had done 3 years ago. Also make sure all your muffler hangers are in place, or have them weld new ones in. Other than a few welds, my entire exhaust system is original and quiet. Its actually rather impressive. 

Rear bearings and front bearings are wear items that typically need replacing every 100,000 to 150,000 kms. Rear brakes also wear faster than some other vehicles, but that is because the rear brakes are actually involved in stopping, thanks to the electronic brake force distribution system.

Maintenance will vary by owner. I personally think that a lot of cat problems are caused by a failure to replace spark plugs earlier, as well as bad 02 sensors. I changed to irridium plugs at 100,000 kms, as opposed to staying with the original platinum tipped for 160,000. My plugs now have 70,000 kms and are 4 years old. Running fine but I will probably change them next month before they start to degrade further. Can tire has a sale on 2 pack NGK irridium IX plugs this week, so I figure 34 + tax for 4 plugs is good insurance to keep things running optimally.

Also I think the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are due for replacement. These you can buy as a kit from the dealer for 50 to 60 cdn and contains the two sensors. The one in your x unless it was changed is an original design that was replaced down the road by a new style one.

Last word Rock Auto has by far the best selection of parts for the x trail, and most if not all issues you are likely to face have been covered here.


----------



## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

anjp said:


> It's also throwing a P0420 code. I know that's commonly associated with cat converter or o2 sensors. In this case there is a big leak between the resonator and muffler at the connecting flange. Could that contribute to the P0420 code or is it strictly cat/O2 up front?


Mine was throwing the P0420 code a bunch before I got the fuel filler neck recall done. Then it was good for about 2 years. And now it has been throwing the P0420 code again. Just got a new gas cap and the code hasn't come back in 2,000 kms. 

It could also be a failed O2 sensor. A scan tool can show you the voltages of the 2 sensors. If one is flat-lined that means it's failed.


----------



## anjp (Jul 3, 2016)

Thanks. I reset the CIL and have since driven 200+kms without it coming back. 
I intend to get a pipe welded over the flange and hopefully that will be all the exhaust work required for safety + etest. 

I will also look into those cam/crank shaft sensors. Thanks!


----------



## anjp (Jul 3, 2016)

chadn said:


> It could also be a failed O2 sensor. A scan tool can show you the voltages of the 2 sensors. If one is flat-lined that means it's failed.


Are you taking about the OBD code reader? I've never used mine for anything else than checking p codes. It's a pretty cheap one but will see if it has the option.


----------



## TeddyBoy#31 (Jul 12, 2016)

Does a 2003 T30 X-Trail have a removable protection panel under Auto Trans sump?


----------



## anjp (Jul 3, 2016)

Rear wheel bearing was a @!#$&! but all done now. Got a mechanic to cut and weld connecting pipe between the resonator and muffler and that leaky flange is all gone. 
Passed the e-test and safety today without issue. 
Service Ontario tomorrow to transfer the ownership. I'm happy it all worked out for me and pretty inexpensive too!


----------



## Mumar (Jun 4, 2020)

Hi, I'm Mumar, My Nissan trail 2005 LE I got a problem regarding idle is up and down. I got a reading of P0507, I tried first in the YouTube how to reset the throttle or the re-learn procedure but I get no luck. My mechanic replaced the throttle body is a brand new but it gets worse he said he can't calibrate and he can't get any reading in his scanner. I need pls. Tnx


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

ummm...lol....it has warmed up outside and i think a few Xtrail owners forgot to tell him about the dreaded Freeze Out. Heck, i live in Vancouver and we have normally mild rainy winters, but a few times it went below zero overnight/got some snow....and my doors would not unlock/open. And when i finally did get the damn door(s) open...it would not latch shut. So just beware, Xtrail a great little suv ( bought my '06 in 2015....runs perfect.) but come winter, if you live somewhere in Canada that gets regular cold, freezing snowy winters.....keep a flamethrower handy.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Mumar said:


> Hi, I'm Mumar, My Nissan trail 2005 LE I got a problem regarding idle is up and down. I got a reading of P0507, I tried first in the YouTube how to reset the throttle or the re-learn procedure but I get no luck. My mechanic replaced the throttle body is a brand new but it gets worse he said he can't calibrate and he can't get any reading in his scanner. I need pls. Tnx


*The relearn procedure must be precise. * 
Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the onboard computer. Do not perform the relearn if the service engine soon light is on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.

First, bring the engine to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C. Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedure.

Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released. Turn the ignition switch on without starting the engine for at least 2 seconds. Turn the ignition switch off for at least 10 seconds. Again, turn the ignition on for at least 2 seconds. Turn the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. This action will inform the computer on the new release position of the accelerator pedal and the closed position. Now that this is done, we can move on to the next step. Please make sure to follow these next instructions *precisely* as every action is performed within a few seconds. Turn the ignition switch on and wait 3 seconds. Immediately after the 3 seconds, the accelerator pedal must be pressed and released 5 times within 5 seconds. Wait 7 seconds and fully press the accelerator pedal and hold for approximately 20 seconds until the check engine light stops blinking and stays on. Within 3 seconds after the check engine light stays constantly on, release the accelerator pedal. Now start the engine and let it idle. After 20 seconds, rev up the engine a couple of times to ensure idle speed is within specifications. If the relearn was unsuccessful, turn the key to the off position wait 60 seconds and restart the process.

If the CEL does not go off, try this procedure:
1. Turn key OFF and wait at least 10 seconds
2. Turn key ON (no ignition), wait 3 seconds, then press & release accelerator pedal 5x hard and quickly.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press and hold the accelerator.
4. After about 12 seconds, the CEL will go off then start blinking. As soon as it starts blinking, release the accelerator.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press and hold the accelerator.
6. Wait 10 seconds, then release the accelerator.
7. Turn the key to off, then immediately start the engine. The CEL should now be off.


----------



## Mumar (Jun 4, 2020)

rogoman said:


> *The relearn procedure must be precise. *
> Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the onboard computer. Do not perform the relearn if the service engine soon light is on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.
> 
> First, bring the engine to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C. Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedure.
> ...


Tnk you do much for t


rogoman said:


> *The relearn procedure must be precise. *
> Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the onboard computer. Do not perform the relearn if the service engine soon light is on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.
> 
> First, bring the engine to normal operating temperature, 160-203°F or 70-95°C. Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedure.
> ...


Tnk you so much for your help. I will try again the re-learn procedure. Tnx again!


----------



## Anatoli (Jul 9, 2020)

anjp said:


> Hi folks,
> New to the forums today. I'm in Ontario, Canada and am likely buying my buddy's old 2006 X-Trail 4x4 2.5L Bona Vista ed.
> It's got quite a few kms - 260,000 - but it will be a good price.
> I'm looking it over today just to make sure I know what I'm getting in to. I know it needs a rear wheel bearing and resonator/muffler exhaust work to pass safety.
> ...


may I ask you how the xtrail is working so far...? I’m going to have a used one with 250 km on it. I have seen complaints regarding winter use and Wheel bearings frequent replacement. As I am living in Canada I’m worried about that....


----------



## bldrnnr11 (Jul 18, 2020)

I am experiencing noise from the right side of my vehicle and can't figure out what it is.
I noticed it was getting louder than normal noise when driving above 65km/hr.
Took it to the mechanic and told him that I think it is a wheel bearing. He took it for a test drive and did some other checks and told me that it isn't a bearing and that it is just road noise. Hard to believe because the road noise is distinct in sound, this sounds like a jet engine humming while at a constant speed. It gets louder (higher frequency) when driven faster.

Anyone have any ideas further about this issue? do you think it is a wheel bearing after all?

This noise only started to occur just recently as well which is why I know for fact it is not road noise and is something more mechanical. Please help me out here!


----------



## kwhite4515 (Nov 8, 2021)

anjp said:


> Thanks everyone.
> It was from a buddy so I'm not worried about him cheating me or needing to ship around for a good price.
> Just wondering what typically fails in these vehicles. I am fairly comfortable doing most of my own maintenance and will get started soon.
> 
> ...


No the problem is actually with the converter it's common that a leak below the converter and it's just a donut to replace. But the inefficiency code of the converter is very common with them if you erase the code and it comes back within a very short period of time then the converter should definitely be replaced if it comes back almost immediately it usually because there's a hole in the converter in which case watch the oil level is when the converters fail it causes the car to start burning a lot of oil.
Replacing the converter before this can save that problem from happening. I'm on my second x trail my first one had $260,000 km the one I'm currently driving has 212000 and have never had a mechanical failure.
 failure.
The camshaft and crankshaft sensors have been updated many years ago and replacing with the new ones is a good plan and it's not very expensive.
The plugs should be replaced at 160,000 km and the oxygen sensor should only be replaced when they throw a code for them.
code.


----------



## kwhite4515 (Nov 8, 2021)

tonyvancity said:


> ummm...lol....it has warmed up outside and i think a few Xtrail owners forgot to tell him about the dreaded Freeze Out. Heck, i live in Vancouver and we have normally mild rainy winters, but a few times it went below zero overnight/got some snow....and my doors would not unlock/open. And when i finally did get the damn door(s) open...it would not latch shut. So just beware, Xtrail a great little suv ( bought my '06 in 2015....runs perfect.) but come winter, if you live somewhere in Canada that gets regular cold, freezing snowy winters.....keep a flamethrower handy.


Go through the tail gate!
Drive with heat on high.
It will free up. The hatch stays down by its weight.
BTW silicone sorry all the door rubber seals before winter on any car to avoid the wet to cold freezing


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

kwhite4515 said:


> Go through the tail gate!
> Drive with heat on high.
> It will free up. The hatch stays down by its weight.
> BTW silicone sorry all the door rubber seals before winter on any car to avoid the wet to cold freezing


Tailgate option not so great. I tend to have the cargo area half filled with some boxes , emergency roadside stuff, small toolbox, the cargo cover, etc. So i could, just a big pain in the butt to remove /put it all back in. 

I've driven with the heat on high for 15 minutes, the doors would not latch shut. One winter i had the heat on high for over 30 minutes and eventually i was able to open my driver's door so i could get out.
Silicone on the door seal is fruitless as it is the door lock/latch mechanism that freezes overnight. IF you manage to get the door somehow to open, it will not latch shut.
trust me, this has been discussed on this forum often. When it happens to you, you will know exactly the pain in the butt it can be.
oh, another issue is frost all over the inside of the front windshield. Turns out i had an overhead water leak coming from the roof mounted antenna . So i fixed that leak and the frost issue went away.
But sometimes i will find a lot of inside windshield condensation.. bone dry interior, vehicle parked for a few days to over a week. No water stains, no water puddles/drops to be found. 
Only vehicle out of about 12 or so that has frozen door lock issues or condensation. No biggie anymore, my xtrail is an '06....about to be 16 years old! Served it's purpose, in due time i get rid of it and get another used japanese suv...like a rav4 or Outlander...less issues.


----------



## alejoc (Dec 18, 2019)

I've had mine for about 13 years, and I can tell you that I have had to replace/have repaired the following items (2008 T30 QR25 4x2 auto, 178000km, oil changes every 5000km):
Both fuel level gauge senders
Shock absorbers every 50000km or so
Rear seat reclining handles
Thermostats and temperature sender to the ECU
Plastic covers for front seat rails
Valve cover gasket
Rear wheel bolt (my mistake, did not adjust it well)
Window weatherstrips in all 4 doors
Wheel bearings (all 4 wheels)
Stabilizer bar bushings
Blower motor (have not changed it yet but it's already droning and grinding)


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

alejoc said:


> I've had mine for about 13 years, and I can tell you that I have had to replace/have repaired the following items (2008 T30 QR25 4x2 auto, 178000km, oil changes every 5000km):
> Both fuel level gauge senders
> Shock absorbers every 50000km or so
> Rear seat reclining handles
> ...


wow. I guess not too bad if you look at all that year a 13 year span.
I bought my 06 Xtrail here in Canada in 2015. I think i have currently 225,000 klms on the odometer. 
It's been a pretty good used japanese suv with majority of stuff replaced due to normal wear and tear. A battery, i replaced the two oxygen sensors because they had lots of mileage on them and i figured they should be replaced. I was correct, after i installed i did notice a smoother, nicer running engine and my mpg seemed a bit better. 
I replaced both cam and crankshaft sensors. Did it myself, parts were cheap, my xtrail ran much better, more responsive. Other then that, the usual oil and transmission fluids, the rear differential fluid, air/oil filters, cabin filters. 
I had a rusty exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter to the muffler replaced due to extreme rust. 
Last year i attempted to install my own car stereo unit and i fried something , vehicle refused to start. $300 later the mechanic fixed it and all was well. 
Other then that, my xtrail has been pretty good and not a money pit. That might change soon. The truck will be 16 years old soon! mind you, 225,000 klms is still relatively low mileage. 
Next used japanese suv will probably be a 2013 toyota rav4 with AWD. Something simple to maintain, reliable, cheap to service, good mpg, 2.5L with 176 horses/ 0-60 mph in 9 seconds. Good enough for me. 2013 Toyota RAV4 Buyer's Guide: Reviews, Specs, Comparisons


----------



## alejoc (Dec 18, 2019)

tonyvancity said:


> wow. I guess not too bad if you look at all that year a 13 year span.
> I bought my 06 Xtrail here in Canada in 2015. I think i have currently 225,000 klms on the odometer.
> It's been a pretty good used japanese suv with majority of stuff replaced due to normal wear and tear. A battery, i replaced the two oxygen sensors because they had lots of mileage on them and i figured they should be replaced. I was correct, after i installed i did notice a smoother, nicer running engine and my mpg seemed a bit better.
> I replaced both cam and crankshaft sensors. Did it myself, parts were cheap, my xtrail ran much better, more responsive. Other then that, the usual oil and transmission fluids, the rear differential fluid, air/oil filters, cabin filters.
> ...


Yeah, not a bad run, but the weather here is mild, between 9 and 30°C, so we don't have that many rust problems if the steel is good, as in the Exy's case.


----------



## whataboutauto (8 mo ago)

anjp said:


> Hi folks,
> New to the forums today. I'm in Ontario, Canada and am likely buying my buddy's old 2006 X-Trail 4x4 2.5L Bona Vista ed.
> It's got quite a few kms - 260,000 - but it will be a good price.
> I'm looking it over today just to make sure I know what I'm getting in to. I know it needs a rear wheel bearing and resonator/muffler exhaust work to pass safety.
> ...


----------



## RobVG (8 mo ago)

Never mind, didn't notice the post was 6 years old...


It's a really good car.
Ours has 160+K. 2005

We replaced the starter. Replacing it also solved the shift lock problem. The old starter was drawing 3 times the amps it should have and may have caused the lock problem.

Replaced the radiator yesterday. Leaking from a small crack under the filler neck. It's a rebuild and front end damage and a missing top mount may have contributed to the failure. Radiators for the X-trail are expensive. You might want to price them yourself.

Put a new rear diff in it last year. It was caused by abusive driving in deep snow up a steep logging road. Our fault, but I will say we made it up the hill while some 4x4 trucks couldn't.
Pass side window motor quit last year.

At 150k, with these you may expect replacing starters, alternators etc. After these outlays, and if you maintain it, you should enjoy many more miles of trouble free economical driving.


----------



## snickered (Aug 31, 2021)

Hello! I have a used 2006 Nissan Xtrail Xtreme and live on Van Isle. 
Gas gauge doesn't work (only goes from full to half and once engine warms up it goes all the way to full. Unless it's really cold out and the the gauge works normal 🙄🙄🙄). So for filling gas we usually fill up at 400 km used on the trip meter. Usually put in about 46 L when fill at this mileage.

About 3 weeks ago, we were at 290 km and ran out of gas. We had used auto 4x4 mode a bit for ice/snow. So I chalked it up to that. Filled the tank and carried on. My daughter was driving and ran out of gas but at 230km. This was weird since we hadn't used 4x4 mode at all this tank. Filled it up.

In the past week we have used 4x4 mode almost exclusively (hello west coast storm!) and since we got to 200km today I made sure we filled up. Only put in 30 L. Which is what normal amount would have used without 4x4 mode?!

does anyone have any ideas what would cause random insane use of fuel? Trip meter was faithfully reset. No gas theft has occurred.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

snickered said:


> Hello! I have a used 2006 Nissan Xtrail Xtreme and live on Van Isle.
> Gas gauge doesn't work (only goes from full to half and once engine warms up it goes all the way to full. Unless it's really cold out and the the gauge works normal 🙄🙄🙄). So for filling gas we usually fill up at 400 km used on the trip meter. Usually put in about 46 L when fill at this mileage.
> 
> About 3 weeks ago, we were at 290 km and ran out of gas. We had used auto 4x4 mode a bit for ice/snow. So I chalked it up to that. Filled the tank and carried on. My daughter was driving and ran out of gas but at 230km. This was weird since we hadn't used 4x4 mode at all this tank. Filled it up.
> ...


230-290 kms per tank is pretty horrible. Is the vehicle fully up to date with maintenance such as engine oil, spark plugs, fresh tranny fluid, engine filter/cabin filter? Ever clean the throttle body and map sensor? 
For a 2006 Xtrail ( i have the same vehicle) have the oxygen sensors ever been changed? crankshaft and camshaft sensors? New PCV valve? I've done all this on my 2.5L Xtrail since i bought it used in 2015 and my engine runs nice and smooth, gets good mpg for a soon to be 17 year old vehicle. 
In 2016 i drove from Vancouver to Summerland (Okanagan) 402 klms distance. Still had under 1/4 tank, maybe get 550 of hwy driving. 
Check thru this list and see if it helps you. Excessive Fuel Consumption: Causes And Cures


----------



## snickered (Aug 31, 2021)

Have done some of those.

new spark plugs, and oil and tranny fluid and air filter.

will check out the Rest. Thanks!!


----------



## kaandemir (30 d ago)

anjp said:


> Hi folks,
> New to the forums today. I'm in Ontario, Canada and am likely buying my buddy's old 2006 X-Trail 4x4 2.5L Bona Vista ed. Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin
> It's got quite a few km - 260,000 - but it will be reasonable.
> I'm looking it over today to ensure I know what I'm getting into. I know it needs a rear wheel bearing and resonator/muffler exhaust work to pass safety.
> ...


That fuel reservoir filler pipe recall is a bit scary! The SE we looked at today hadn't had the recall addressed.


----------

