# things to get???



## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i am going to due a turbo swap some day and i want to know what other things or parts i can get for my car now before i get it. i know i can get JWT ECU upgrade the suspension and brakes. Im not sure if i should get a cat-back yet and i know headers is out of the question. but what if i get a (FORD COBRA) MAF on my SR20 right know? And one more thing i dont plan on getting more than 350whp so should i get a bolt on turbo from Fmax or HS cause i hear that the bottom end is good up to that hp. If i had the right amount to get what i want i would get a bluebird block T3 turbo and spearco intercooler with all proper injectors, fuel rails and computers. Any info will be great........thanks in advance


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## Guest (Nov 19, 2002)

stick with the DE block it is a little stronger.. i am told that teh DET block is sleved like honda blocks  also.... the stock bottom end will hold 400 hp however inorder to acheve that you must port the head do the valve spring retainers valve springs and cams in otherwords upper half it would also be a good idea to upgrade the ignition... you could do that before you put in the turbo look into an MSD 6A and also some nology hot wires for plug wires and you will have to get the Nology dist cap... whyle you are doing that... might as well throw in the hoss fuel pump find a used or new 300zx TT pump as far as the MAF i dont know i also posed a thread on it.... hope i can help


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## Guest (Nov 19, 2002)

> stick with the DE block it is a little stronger.. i am told that teh DET block is sleved like honda blocks


What the... where the hell did you hear that? No, the DET is a stronger motor overall, it has lower compression and a TON of extra turbo-friendly goodies like piston coolers, sodium filled valves, and it has mechanical lifters and it's built better to take more horsepower without changing anything.



> the stock bottom end will hold 400 hp however inorder to acheve that you must port the head do the valve spring retainers valve springs and cams in otherwords upper half


Oh man... put down the bananas before somebody gets hurt. You are WAY off. While the bottom end will hold 400 HP, you do NOT need to port the head, install better retainers (there are retainers in there already you know...) or do valve springs or cams. Where in the hell are you getting this "information"?

There are a decent number of SE-Rs with *completely* stock SR20DE engines (the ones they came with from the factory) that are making OVER 400 wheel HP. Of course the MAF and injectors need to be upgraded to handle the airflow and fuel, but internally they're completely stock and in fact have never even been opened up at all.

So basically, put down the crack pipe.



> it would also be a good idea to upgrade the ignition... you could do that before you put in the turbo look into an MSD 6A and also some nology hot wires for plug wires and you will have to get the Nology dist cap...


You don't have to upgrade the ignition until you go over 250 wheel HP. And Nology wires don't work as well as factory Nissan stock wires. Same goes for plugs, use the stock platinums, just get them a heat range or two colder. Many, many people have done some good hard testing with aftermarket wires and plugs, and *none of them* are as good as the stock wires and plugs. 



> might as well throw in the hoss fuel pump find a used or new 300zx TT pump as far as the MAF i dont know i also posed a thread on it....


You really don't need a new fuel pump until you go over 300 wheel HP. And here's how the MAF works: Your stock one should be fine till maybe 240 or 250 wheel HP. Then you can get a better one... the Ford Cobra MAF is a popular choice and should be fine for as much HP as you want. Injectors will also be a problem, you'll need at least 370cc injectors, and even those are only good to maybe 250 HP. If you want more HP than that you'll need to get the 50 lb. injectors.


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## Guest (Nov 19, 2002)

like i said these were things i were told...i personaly didnt really know... all i do know is that the det has oil squirters and also that it has 8:5:1 compression sorry for misleading info


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i think i'll get the det block just cause it make a more reliable turbo and also in a way it's cheaper. I now that all i have to do when i get the swap done i have to send off the JWT ECU and have it reprogramed for the larger ijectors and added hp. im still not sure about the cat back cause i heard that some guy that did the stromong group buy started talking about the swap and guys where asking why he did that it wont work. but i know without an exhaust system the turbo will not perform the way you want it too.


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2002)

Okay, here's the advantages and disadvantages of SR20DET vs. SR20DE:

Cost: You can get an SR20DE for a few hundred bucks, plus if you have an SE-R you already have one sitting in your engine bay. A DET will cost you will over $1500.

Turbo-friendliness: All right, to be perfectly clear about this: The SR20DE and the SR20DET are the exact same engine. There are differences, and they're mostly confined to pistons (different compression ratio), piston coolers, lifters and a bunch of other little things - but the blocks are the same and the heads are mostly the same. That being said, the lower compression and the other goodies in the DET do make it friendlier for turbos, and of course they come with the turbo and the turbo manifold included, as well as the oil return lines.

However - the DE can take a turbo system just as well as a DET can. The main tangible differences will be that the DET will be able to take more boost on pump gas without detonating. Reliability shouldn't be an issue with either SR20 variation. If you want more than 250 HP, you will still have to upgrade the turbo, injectors, MAF and ECU even on a DET.

So what you need to do is this: Define specifically what you want from a turbo system. Define how much power you want, how much boost you want to run on pump gas, how much on race gas, what the car will mostly be used for, and how much money you have to spend on the project. Define all the little parameters *BEFORE* you decide which engine and/or turbo kit you want to build.

There is no right answer to this question, there are only different outcomes. You need to decide beforehand how you want the car to behave, and once you do that you can decide the best way to go about making it happen. Sometimes the DET is the best way to go and sometimes it's not. It totally depends on what you want out of it.

For example, if you want more than 300 HP, a DET is probably not the way to go, because of price. In addition to the $1500-$2000 DET you'll have to get the ECU, injectors, MAF, front mount intercooler and piping and the full exhaust system AND you'll have to buy a bigger turbo as well. Or, you can buy a DE for $250 or $300, get some low compression forged pistons for $600 (I think), the MAF, injectors, intercooler and piping and exhaust system and ECU, and the turbo. See, the list is almost the same either way, but the DET is 8 times more expensive to start with.

But if you're planning on staying under 260 HP, a DET might be the way to go because you'll only need injectors and ECU pretty much.

So - decide what your goals are, and then decide the best way to implement them.

Forgot to add - you'll want a full 3" exhaust system no matter which way you go - including downpipe if possible. Turbo systems like it best if there's no exhaust at all but of course that's very loud and super illegal.


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