# fixing Reverse light



## Al xe 1999 (Aug 4, 2011)

The reverse light doesn't light up when I put it in reverse. I have a GA16DE Automatic Trans. The car runs fine. The bulbs light up when tested externally and the ground connection is good. According to the Haynes manual, the 10A fuse is good and gets juice when I turn the key to the ON position. (though the car's sticker labels the fuse as METER in position 12)

I'm having trouble finding the connectors on the transmission. According to the Haynes manual, there is a 2 pin connector and an 8 pin connector. I can't find these anywhere.

The shifter cable goes into the transmission in the front corner under the battery. Around the corner, facing the left tire (driver's side), there are 2 connectors. One is a 2 pin and the other is a 3 or 4 pin. I think the bigger one is for the overdrive override function.

Above the transmission, on a bracket, there is a 4 pin connector next to an 8 pin connector. But they have green tape wraps which I think is for the ECU functions. According to the wire colors, it seems to have something to do with the MAF sensor, IACC/ACC valve, data link connector and such. (though the wiring diagrams go up to 1998, so it might have been changed for the 1999 model) The 4 pin module have something to do with the overdrive override and torque converter functions.

My question is from the trunk, where does that green/white wire that goes to the reverse lights eventually hook up to??? And where is that elusive 8 pin connector for the reverse lights?

One side note: My ecu did have a mini-stroke and I had to short an inhibitor connection controlled by a solenoid to get the starter motor to function. According to the Haynes manual, the reverse lights aren't controlled by the ecu. Is this right?


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## Al xe 1999 (Aug 4, 2011)

Further info on the wire colors of the 8 and 4 pin connectors as found in my car:

On the 8 pin connector, 6 are in use. Two of the center pins on the side of the tab and four on the side away from the tab. The two on the tab side are: Yellow with silver bands around the circumference of the insulation, and Green with White stripe with silver bands around the circumference. (It is not the same as the Green with white stripe that goes to the reverse lights, which have no silver bands.) There are many yellow wires used in this car so it can be anything, and the green/white one might be a data link connector.

Also, when I test the pins for continuity, if I reverse the positive probe with the negative probe, I get different results for which pins are shorted. I think there are voltages in the pins that are messing with my voltmeter.

On the row of four pins on the 8 pin connector, the colors are: Purple/White stripe, Red with silver band, Orange/Yellow stripe, Pink/Blue stripe with silver band. I think the purple with white stripe is for the IACC/ACC valve and the red is for the MAF sensor.

4 Pin connector: row closer to the tab: Black and Green/Orange stripe. The black I assume is ground and the green/orange is a Park/Neutral inhibitor switch.
row farther away from tab: Orange/Black stripe and Pink/Black stripe. The orange/black is for the OD switch and the pink/black is for the torque converter/OD cancel.

Note that I figured the functions of the wires by looking for the colors of the wires on the Haynes wiring diagrams. There are so many wires that I might have made a mistake.


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## Al xe 1999 (Aug 4, 2011)

Further info on the wire colors of the 8 and 4 pin connectors as found in my car: These two are on a bracket that bolt onto the side of the chassis and not onto the transmission or engine block. They are easily accessed from the top, behind the battery and are in plain view.

There seem to be other odd single or double pin connectors hiding below the intake, but I can't see a 2 pin connector next to an 8 pin connector like the pictures in the Haynes manual. I can't pass the safety inspection until I fix this, so I really appreciate your help. Thanks!


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## Al xe 1999 (Aug 4, 2011)

It turns out the 4 pin connector on the transmission is the switch. Apparently the made in America and made in Mexico models are different and Haynes didn't mention it. The black plastic arm that looks like a tuning fork broke. Apparently 12 years of heat cycles and some battery acid will turn plastic into a soft, clay-like material. The switch still works (opens and closes two circuits) (I got the reverse lights to come on by physically connecting the green/white wire to the yellow wire, so I know the wiring is good too) The dealership wanted about $120 for a new switch. Nah-huh.

I'm in the process of fabricating a new arm made out of metal. The 1/4 inch bolt I used to screw the arm on just barely clears the pivot arm, so I need to grind the head down further. Also, I didn't make the groove deep enough and it jams after reverse, so I need to lengthen the slot a little. I left some plastic around the axle so I could drill a set screw to keep my fabricated arm from twisting away from it's alignment. And I saved $120! Once I lengthen the groove, the switch should work like new!


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