# 1985 300zx: what should i do first!



## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

just bought a 1985 300zx for 1900, pretty good deal considering he said it ran good and everything was in alright condition.
i test drove it and it sounded good, theres a little exhaust leak. but nothing major.
i took it to a nissan dealer to get it looked intoand apparently there is a new front rack, tranny leak, and a power steering leak.
i decided to keep it and do what i choose to it.
it's an N\T with the stock VG30E in it 
it has a cracked passenger side strut so it bounces like a trampoline when going above 70 and bumps etc.
been driving it for a month now.
im thinking of driving the engine into the ground. and getting a RB20Det sometime soon.
was going to get rid of those struts and buy some new KYB GR-2 struts. 
im guessing the seals on the engine were bad. nissan told me it looked like the front main and rear seal were leaking. it's been sitting in the garage for 15 years the guy told me and only family owned. barely to no rust and its in pretty damn good condition.
i have a local Z shop and told me i can replace my dash for 650 since apparently the car was dipped in water. the amp in the dash was scum green.
any suggestions to a new classic car driver \ Z owner?


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

First. Fix the struts. Driving with a car's suspension like that is dangerous and deplorable. You can easily lose control of the car and kill yourself, or worse yet, someone else.

Second. Timing belt. Do it. And while you're there, do all the seals (crank and both cams) on the front of the engine with the water pump, regular belts, all coolant hoses, and thermostat.

Third. The rear main seal requires separation of the transmission. If you let it go too long, the oil will get on the flywheel and your clutch will start to slip.

The last item on the list, the dash, is one of the last things you should worry about.

But honestly, what order did your mechanic say to do these in?


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

i doubt it was dipped in water... its possible that through years of sitting condensation had collected on metal parts like the amp and allowed some growth...

if the car had been dipped in water... chances are there would have been alot more problems with it than some green scum on an amp


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I would also suggest a new tensioner pulley to go with the timing belt. It's best to stick with genuine Nissan parts whenever possible, or at least a Nissan OEM supplier (Like KYB, NGK, Bando, Toshiba, to name a few). If you're waiting to "drive the engine into the ground," you could be waiting a long time as those VG30's were very reliable and didn't die easy. Definately take care of the broken strut first!


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## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

yeah i had bought new Gas-A-Just struts\shocks for all around..
just been a tad chilly to put em on if it doesnt get warmer i might go to a shop.
i need to get the leaks taken care of as i do not know if they are still leaking i am going to go get a check-up at nissan to see if they're fresh. i appreciate for the concerns all.


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## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

AZ-ZBum said:


> First. Fix the struts. Driving with a car's suspension like that is dangerous and deplorable. You can easily lose control of the car and kill yourself, or worse yet, someone else.
> 
> Second. Timing belt. Do it. And while you're there, do all the seals (crank and both cams) on the front of the engine with the water pump, regular belts, all coolant hoses, and thermostat.
> 
> ...



Okay well what's the easiest way to achieve all of these items at once? Will a general mechanic be capable of replacing all belts, seals.
The rear seal would cost a bit of money wouldn't it?


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## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

also im thinking about turbo'ing it soon. is a AMZ stage 1 turbo ideal for a 85 NA?


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

300zackx said:


> Okay well what's the easiest way to achieve all of these items at once? Will a general mechanic be capable of replacing all belts, seals.
> The rear seal would cost a bit of money wouldn't it?


If you are unable to do the work on your car yourself, drop the car and about $2000 off with your mechanic. Springs and shocks will run you about $400 for the cheapest ones. Add another $200 for labor. The full timing belt job will run you about $800 in parts and labor.

And there are always misc costs when they work on these cars.


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## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

AZ-ZBum said:


> If you are unable to do the work on your car yourself, drop the car and about $2000 off with your mechanic. Springs and shocks will run you about $400 for the cheapest ones. Add another $200 for labor. The full timing belt job will run you about $800 in parts and labor.
> 
> And there are always misc costs when they work on these cars.


I have already installed some KYB Gas-a-just shocks and some GR2 struts. they were liek elss then 200 dollars for all.
It runs great now. But i just want to get everything in it up to date. I bought some bosch plat. plugs. new pads. getting new discs. looking for a hotsy. lol.
changed some filters have a fuel filters to put in.
the timing belt job does that include other normal belts?


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

Why do people insist on putting German spark plugs in a Japanese car? You should take the Bosch ones back and buy some NGK or Nippon-Denso ones. They are much better spark plugs for a Nissan than anything Bosch makes, and cheaper! Not trying to crack on you or anything, but it is a well-known fact in the automotive world you buy NGK for Japanese imports. When I worked in the automotive retail world, I always suggested NGKs for any Japanese make. I'm surprise your retail associate didn't do the same, unless you went to Autozone. They are absolutely hopeless when it comes to imports! I would check your drive belts before you just go and buy some new ones. If they are dry-rotted or cracked, change them. Otherwise, just keep them when you do your timing belt.

When I first bought my '85 2+2, the first thing I did was change the spark plugs. You know what I found? Motorcraft. Yes... Ford spark plugs in a Nissan. Some people just don't have any sense. I put in new NGKs, and the Fairlady transformed. Gone was the sputter and misses, and on came the power. And no... I am not getting paid by NGK for my endorsement.


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> And no... I am not getting paid by NGK for my endorsement.


lies i seen the kick backs


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## 300zackx (Dec 28, 2010)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> Why do people insist on putting German spark plugs in a Japanese car? You should take the Bosch ones back and buy some NGK or Nippon-Denso ones. They are much better spark plugs for a Nissan than anything Bosch makes, and cheaper! Not trying to crack on you or anything, but it is a well-known fact in the automotive world you buy NGK for Japanese imports. When I worked in the automotive retail world, I always suggested NGKs for any Japanese make. I'm surprise your retail associate didn't do the same, unless you went to Autozone. They are absolutely hopeless when it comes to imports! I would check your drive belts before you just go and buy some new ones. If they are dry-rotted or cracked, change them. Otherwise, just keep them when you do your timing belt.
> 
> When I first bought my '85 2+2, the first thing I did was change the spark plugs. You know what I found? Motorcraft. Yes... Ford spark plugs in a Nissan. Some people just don't have any sense. I put in new NGKs, and the Fairlady transformed. Gone was the sputter and misses, and on came the power. And no... I am not getting paid by NGK for my endorsement.


Well i guess i know what plugs im getting next time. haha ive got a few months of just upkeep on my car when it gets warmer before i start anything majorly mechanical.
I'm considering putting in either a VG30DET or a RB25DET. 
wouldnt mind even a 350 SB just depends on the money at the time.
i really just need to get simple things like brake pads\rotors. new amp for the dash. remove the few rust spots that are coming thorugh the bad paint job the guy put on it before i bought it.
Best way to go turbo ? buy a turbo kit? like a AMZ Performance or just installing a VG30det and install it? the Z32s TT's arent boltable are they?


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