# 2010 Rogue front sway bar



## aiag1917 (Oct 25, 2012)

I've been told by my Firestone shop that I need a new swaybar end pin link kit installed. About $400.00 for parts and labor. Does anybody have a diagram or photo of what the sway bar end pins look like, and if they can be changed at home, I have all the tools, and jack, jack stands, etc.

Firestone also wanted to change my rear shocks for about $350, parts and labor, but I was able to handle that job for about $80.00 so if the sway bar end pin kits is about the same, I can save a lot of cash!
Thanks, 
aiag1917


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

??? All four are bad at the same time? Very unlikely. Anyway each link on the Rock Auto catalog is somewhere between 10 and 30 each depending upon quality. If you have changed a shock, I would think you can do one or all of these links, and save even more cash!!!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Here is a link to a pic of a front one 
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1970598&cc=1444883&jnid=449&jpid=5

and here is a link to a rear one
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1970264&cc=1444883&jnid=449&jpid=11


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Rear shocks, sway bar and links...on a 2010 Rogue? Either you are driving your Rogue pretty tough or you Firestone shop is trying to fleece you! I would get a second opinion from a reputable, independent shop or dealer to see if Firestone is being honest with you. As far as the job of replacing end links or even the sway bar, if it actually is needed, it is a fairly simple job and, as mentioned, if you can replace rear shocks, you can handle the bar and links. Rockauto is a great source for parts; I would go with Moog if they have them, but Mevotech is also very good.


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## aiag1917 (Oct 25, 2012)

Thanks, the shocks were leaking, and there is a clunking sound up front, so I think their being up front with me. I did get the front links, are they suppose to be differnt lengths?
and the connecting bolts are bigger on one that the other, does that sound right or should I take them back to napa to see if they sold me the right ones?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I know the front links are straight and the rear links are sorta "S" shaped and left side is different from right side. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the front links are the same length as each other and the rear links are the same length as each other. You could always compare them to what's on your vehicle. I could see the links failing, but what's wrong with the sway bar, itself? About the only time they go bad is in an accident.


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## aiag1917 (Oct 25, 2012)

Sway bar is ok, rear shocks were leaking and the sway bar end links, at least one was bad or failing. Napa looked at them, and sure enough one was the wrong one. Correct one on the way from Boulder. The new ones have a way of putting a wrench on them to hold the shaft from turning as you put on the nut, but not sure about the stock ones until I get to take one off. 
Thanks for all the help, and pictures.
Aiag1917


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## INX2C (May 31, 2003)

aiag1917 said:


> Sway bar is ok, rear shocks were leaking and the sway bar end links, at least one was bad or failing. Napa looked at them, and sure enough one was the wrong one. Correct one on the way from Boulder. The new ones have a way of putting a wrench on them to hold the shaft from turning as you put on the nut, but not sure about the stock ones until I get to take one off.
> Thanks for all the help, and pictures.
> Aiag1917


Another technique to hold the shaft and remove the nut is a vise grips. Get the narrow visegrips - like a needlenose--and clamp it on. You should be able to twist off the nut. I always use an air impact wrench to remove these. Could be a daunting task with hand wrenches, but doable, I'm sure.
Also, having two small floor jacks is helpful. One for the frame, to get the wheel off. And one to raise or lower the spindle to relieve tension on the link for removal/replacement.
Sway bar links are usually a good eBay item to get em cheap. My kids have a couple old Corollas and those stupid links start rattling after 10k miles. Geeeze. Easy to change, though.


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