# Symptoms of a failing oil pump??



## csixer (May 18, 2012)

I have another post floating around about lifter noise on warm up that goes away when at operating temp. I just did the timing chain and all parts about 3k miles ago with nissan oem parts. Im gettting the timing chain rattle on start up again. Im running a nissan factory filter also. Got down there with a bore scope and all my giudes are still in good shape. The noise stops as soon as oil pressure comes up and the light goes out but rattles for a few seconds when it sits for awile. I was wondering could my oil pump be failing? It takes longer in the morning than i think it should to get oil pressure going. Note: im running 5w 30 oil. And its gotten much worse simce its dropping into the high 20's at night. Any thoughts would be great thank u


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## csixer (May 18, 2012)

Update. I pulled coil wire off and cranked engine. It tol a good 10 secs of cranking to get the oil light to shut off. Its like the oil pump is losing its prime. And its 60 degrees out now. I dont want to spend $80 on a pump for it not to fix it though. But what else could cause this delay of oil pressure? I also replaced the oil filter a day or so ago and no help. Is there a chance i didnt get it primed correctly when i did the timing chain? U would think once it started the first timen3k miles ago it would have primed itself and stayed primed.... Can a wrong prime procedure cause the pump to have to prime every start up?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Normally the oil light, (idiot light), should never come even with a cold engine that's in good condition. The problem may be worn rod/main bearings, dirty oil pickup screen, cracked pickup tube or a worn oil pump. Most of the time it's the oil pump which may be worn and not producing the proper oil pressure/volume.

You can check the pressure very easily by installing a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge. You would remove the oil sensor which is located next to the oil filter and install the mechanical oil pressure gauge in it's place; you may need to get an 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter to hook up the gauge.

With the engine fully warmed up, the pressure should be as follows:
idle - at least 11 psi
3000 RPM - 60 to 70 psi

If the oil pump needs to be replaced, it's easy to do so on a KA24E as it bolts on externally.

Your existing oil pump does not need to be re-primed unless you take it apart for inspection/cleaning. Priming a new pump is very easy to do; immerse the pump into a can of motor and turn the drive spindle by hand until oil comes out of the output side.


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## csixer (May 18, 2012)

Well its only got 158k and its in mint condition. I bought it 6 years ago and i take emphatical care of my vehicles. Oils never went over 3k and ive used full syn oil amd nissan filters its hole life with me. Doesnt leak or burn one drop of oil. No smoke at start up. Im finding it real hard to swallow i have mains and rod problemS. I had the oil pump off when i did the timing chain. I primed it before input it in. But yes it takes a few seconds to get oil moving. So maybe the pump is weak? It just started this in the last 1k miles. If i put a mechanical gauge on there that still wont tell me why its taking so long to prime and pump oil. Cause once the light goes out tye noise stops and all is well. I do thank you for the input. I may just try a pump and see what happens


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## csixer (May 18, 2012)

Can the pump itself be losing prime? An having to prime itself everytime i start it?


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## simms (Sep 20, 2019)

Having the same problem. Did you ever solve this problem? Thanks


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

csixer said:


> Can the pump itself be losing prime? An having to prime itself everytime i start it?


The only time that something like this can happen is if the oil pump is sucking air before it gets enough oil to build up the pressure. There are several possible reasons:

Gasket on the suction tube is damaged or bolts are loose.
Suction tube cracked due to vibrations, usually at the flange.
The suction tube flange is not perfectly flat.


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