# 1995 Sentra no power when accelerating



## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

I have a 95 nissan Sentra GXE. Its accelerating very slowly and has no power. When its in neutral I can rev the engine just fine. Its a 5 speed with 217k miles. I have recently replaced the plugs, wires, distributor, cap & rotor, fuel & air filters, fresh oil change. Today I took the intake and throttle body off and cleaned them along with all the vacuum lines, then ran a can of sea foam through it. No change and its not throwing any codes. Any ideas?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Check/adjust the timing.


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## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

How do I check the timing to be sure its correct? I know the chain has never been replaced or adjusted. I had the valve cover off a few days ago and the chain had a little bit of play in it, is that normal?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

What ever you do, do NOT use the SEARCH button at the top of the page...


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## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

I did...and didn't come up with a clear answer


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Really?
You couldn't search

How to adjust timing ga16de

and come up with a good answer?
Really?
REALLY?


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## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

No need to be a smart ass about it, I'll go elsewhere and find info where people are little more friendly.

Most of the posts in the search tell how to replace the chain and/or tensioners and just to adjust the timing after installation but are not very specific on how to adjust it correctly.

And my question wasn't how to adjust the timing, how to determine if my timing is correct as it is, is what I was looking for. I'm not even sure if the timing is my problem or not.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Not sure what a "little bit of play" is to you. Since the tensioner is oil fed, there might be a little play in the chain with the engine not running. A common problem with the GA engines with high miles is the pad on the upper tensioner falls apart and the upper chain jumps timing. In worst case scenarios, it will strip the idle gear teeth and can cause bent valves. You might want to do a compression test. As far as the ignition timing adjustment, the hold down bolt is usually close to (or just slightly off center) the middle of the adjustment slot. If it's adjusted close to the end of the slot, it's usually a sign that the timing chain has jumped and somebody adjusted the timing or somebody has it improperly adjusted. Engine warmed up, shut the engine off and unplug the TPS. Start the engine, rev it a few times and let it idle, adjust the timing and base idle to specs, shut the engine off. Re-connnect the TPS and start the engine.


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## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

smj999smj said:


> Not sure what a "little bit of play" is to you. Since the tensioner is oil fed, there might be a little play in the chain with the engine not running. A common problem with the GA engines with high miles is the pad on the upper tensioner falls apart and the upper chain jumps timing. In worst case scenarios, it will strip the idle gear teeth and can cause bent valves. You might want to do a compression test. As far as the ignition timing adjustment, the hold down bolt is usually close to (or just slightly off center) the middle of the adjustment slot. If it's adjusted close to the end of the slot, it's usually a sign that the timing chain has jumped and somebody adjusted the timing or somebody has it improperly adjusted. Engine warmed up, shut the engine off and unplug the TPS. Start the engine, rev it a few times and let it idle, adjust the timing and base idle to specs, shut the engine off. Re-connnect the TPS and start the engine.


There isn't very much play in the chain, but theres enough for me to move it a little. I'm about to pull the valve cover off and take a look at the tensioner and pad. I'm hoping it didn't bend the valves.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

If you've got 217K miles on it, and the upper tensioner has never been changed, there probably isn't much left of it, and it's due.
And I'd say generally when it goes bad, the engine starts sounding a bit like a sewing machine, eventually graduating to sounding like a diesel when there ain't much meat left on the tensioner.

If the engine is running, you didn't bend the valves. Case closed.

Ya know what's even easier than pull the valve cover to check the tensioner, which is almost surely worn out given the general reputation for this particular item to do so along with the front crank seal to leak after ~100k miles?

Getting a timing light and checking/adjusting the timing.


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## bilz94 (Jun 7, 2011)

I adjusted the timing this morning and it runs fine now, so I didn't bend the valves. The chain does make a lot of noise like you described, its been like that for a while now. I'll replace that tensioner next week when I have time.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yes, I would recommend replacing the upper chain tensioner, too. They seem to fail on B14's more so on the earlier B13s, from what I've seen and for whatever reason. Seems after 120,000 miles, they are working on borrowed time. At 200+, you got your money's worth out of it!


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## tomraedisk (Nov 17, 2012)

yeah check that thing asap cause mine just failed on me. In the middle of taking my head off to replace the values. My engine only had 165 on and the tensioner was done and the vtc sprocket was eaten up along with the idler pulley.


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## Infantryman (May 15, 2013)

Wasn't clear if you fixed your acceleration issue, but If you have the timing chains correctly installed always check your base timing by acceleration or retarding your distributer. I think you have up to 10 degrees to play with. A sign that you have retarded your base timing is that your exhaust manifold will become cherry red.


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## bremmike12 (Jun 19, 2013)

For lack of power under load and no codes, I would check the catalytic convertor. Very possible it is not allowing enough flow and causing too much back pressure.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

bremmike12 said:


> For lack of power under load and no codes, I would check the catalytic convertor. Very possible it is not allowing enough flow and causing too much back pressure.


OR, you could do some reading and figure out that the O/P fixed the problem...and it had nothing to do with the cat (this time)...


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## Gridmen (Jun 12, 2013)

A clogged cat will give you a code !








https://www.facebook.com/gridmenautonews


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

No.
A clogged cat will NOT give you a code,
A clogged cat can cause other problems which themselves may indicate a failure and cause the ECU to set a code, but there is no "Clogged Catalytic Converter" code.
That's the problem with amateur wanna-be troubleshooters.
They take everything at face value and are completely unable to absorb the whole picture.


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## Gridmen (Jun 12, 2013)

Dude, maybe you love drama but you just said what i said
read the whole tread before replying
1. The guy said that he was having trouble with the car but no code
2.somebody suggest a clogged cat
3. I wrote a clogged cat give you a code

Now if somebody ask why it give you a code I will come with the same explanation you did 

But yeah you can say a clogged cat give you a code


P.S. Im a Nissan mechanic , Im just a rookie in writing in forums


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Gridmen said:


> P.S. Im a Nissan mechanic , Im just a rookie in writing in forums


Do you want a cookie?


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## bremmike12 (Jun 19, 2013)

*jdg*

It is apparent to all that you enjoy being a douche and that's cool but a car will still run with a bent valve. May not run great but will still run. Might want to check your complete knowledge bank. I did however misread that he adjusted the timing and it was better.


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## rogergr20 (Jan 26, 2013)

hello friend checks the ground and the power of the ecu have a 95 Sentra and just had these symptoms and proved to be a poor ground like power. apparently are 5-pin power they should have the battery voltage and should not be resistance in the wires of ground which apparently are 8 pins

P.S. Czech the ground sensor this should be 0-003 millivolts if the readings do not match the mentioned wiring and replace your problem was resolved

discullpa my English I'm Mexican


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