# 95 HB Bucks and sputters



## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

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Posted this before, really didn't get anything out of it. so here we go again.

So, I have a 95xe HB, 2.4l, 5 speed with 204 and some odd thousand miles, that sputters under acceleration up to about 2500 rpm, the occasional hiccup at cruising speeds, and more of a bucking under a load and up hill (severity depends on temp outside and of motor). Also, once warm, sputters at idle.

Things I have done.
New air/oil/fuel filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, vacuum lines, PCV, and checked for CODES. Got a 55, no fault.

Anyway, I have done everything that I know to do and can't figure it out. I have see a couple of threads with similar problems, they started swapping parts to fix problem. Really don't want to do that unless necessary.

Thinking about changing the T chain and sprockets. I know that it has been done once before, not sure when. Also, got to put a clutch kit in. And i don't think my CEL works, never seen it come on, ever.

:balls:


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## tomit (Jul 2, 2004)

Your truck idles fine and maintains steady speed on the road without any problem?

Tom


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

No tomit, it does not. However, it has never gone dead at idle, but it does have a sputter. At cruising speed it runs fine but loses a lot of power uphill or under load. When accelerating from 1st through 3rd it sputters and sometimes seems like it bogs but picks up at higher rpms.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Several things to check:
- Sticking EGR valve.
- Check the fuel pressure.
- Check the crankshaft position sensor inside the distributor and the harness connector. See if the sensor has a lot of oil on it.
- Check for a vacuum leak by using a vacuum gauge.
- Check the MAF and it's harness connector. The MAF hot wire might need cleaning.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Can you totally kill it if you keep accelerating through the bogging, etc.? Or does it just slow way down and always recover. I think that's an important question in the troubleshooting process. Sounds like you might not be getting a spark at some of those higher rpms based on what you've said so far.


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

No it never goes dead, and it seems to run fine at higher rpms. It's at lower rpms that it bogs and then picks up. The past morning or two the temp has been in the 30s and it seems to run fine, hardly any sputter or bog.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

That the issues come more when it's warm makes me curious. You said you replaced the coil? I'm guessing you have both--you replaced the primary ignition coil, right?


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

I am only aware of the one on the driver side inner fender.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Did you check rogo's ideas? And all those parts you said are new, are they OEM? Or at least actually 'new'? 

Boy, I'd consider paying a shop mechanic to diagnose/troubleshoot before replacing timing chain and sprockets.


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

Haven't had a chance to check them yet, will get what I can done this weekend. Yes, everything that I stated in the original thread were new parts/oem.


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

Ok, the only things that I have been able to check so far, put new O2 sensor on, and checked the fuel pressure with homemade gauge, read 25psi @ idle. The book says it should be at around 33psi. Next, I think I am going to break out the multi-meter and start checking electrical parts. 

Would the pressure being at 25 make that much diff? When you hit the throttle it spikes but then falls back to just above 25psi. 

On the electrical side, can anyone help me out on what to look for, where to poke and prod? I have a general understanding of electrical and wiring, but that's it, OH, and I know if it bites, it hurts.


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## dzbuster (Sep 25, 2013)

did you ever find the problem? I have the same problem, fixed several to get to this point. anyway seem to keep seeing something about resplicing in harness the injector wires.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

chipster427 said:


> checked the fuel pressure with homemade gauge, read 25psi @ idle. The book says it should be at around 33psi. Next, I think I am going to break out the multi-meter and start checking electrical parts.
> 
> Would the pressure being at 25 make that much diff? When you hit the throttle it spikes but then falls back to just above 25psi.


According to the FSM, the fuel pressure at idle should be 34 psi. The fuel pressure sitting at 25 psi is marginal which possibly could be causing the sputtering. The low pressure problem could be caused by a bad FPR or fuel pump.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

A while back when I was having some issues with my truck I found some great wire splice fix DIY/diagrams on this site. Do some searching and I'll bet you'll find some helpful posts.


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## chipster427 (Jan 10, 2012)

Well, here's the thing about the wiring, would it not act up at different times while running, not at the exact same time, every time? I don't know, my brain won't accept a weak solder only interrupting at the same exact time every time. And I get the whole electrical parts and wiring work different at different volts, amps, amp hours, omhs, and whatnots. But just cant get the ole nogg'n to rap around it.


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## Crf450r420 (Jun 27, 2010)

sounds like the issue I had on my V6. pulled the reluctor from the distributor and cleaned it. Issue went away for a while. Cleaned it again and went away, but for less time. Put an new distributor in it no issue since.


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