# No brakes + Sticky Gas Pedal = Good Times



## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey everyone. So I'm once again coming here for assistance. I've had two issues going on with my truck for quite some time now, but since they're so small I never really took the time ta take a look at them until now. 

The first problem is that the gas pedal sticks. Now it doesn't stick to the floor,thankfully, instead it sticks the opposite way to where I'll have ta mash on the gas to break it loose. I've sprayed all the cables with WD40 and even cleaned the throttle bodies butterfly flap, but nothing seems ta work. It seems like a simple design. What am I missing?

The second problem is with the brakes. When I go to apply the brakes, the idle seems ta get rough and almost stall the truck out the harder I brake. I found a thread on here describing a similar problem with a Maxima, but it didn't help me too much. I did the brake booster test, and it passed, so that tells me I either have a vacuum leak somewhere, or that valve I know nothing about needs fixin'. Can anyone help me with these two problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

it is time to replace the gas cable ..

there can sometimes be a ounch point at the cable entrance down by the pedal..

what is the brake booster test..

it is probably the mc leaking into the mc and causing fluid to enter the vacumn system..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> it is time to replace the gas cable...there can sometimes be a ounch point at the cable entrance down by the pedal.


What's a ounch point? 



zanegrey said:


> what is the brake booster test?


I read about it in that thread I was talking about earlier. I guess if you pump the brake pedal several times and then turn the vehicle on, the pedal will release closer to the floor then when you originally pumped it, thus confirming that you brake booster is in working order. Not sure how valid the test is, but my pedal did exactly that.So I'm assuming the issue has to be with the valve or hoses.




zanegrey said:


> it is probably the mc leaking into the mc and causing fluid to enter the vacumn system..


What's the MC fluid? And how can I check ta see if this is what's happening?

Thanks for the help again Zane, I really appreciate it...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i need spell check..

that is pinch point..

and mc= master cylinder ..

mc fluid is brake fluid..

loosen the mc from the booster and look behind it to see if it is leaking..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Oh okay. haha Well I looked and the cable has no pinch point from the firewall bushing to the top of the gas pedal. It's straight. I followed the cable back to the TB and it too seems to have no binding points.

I also loosened the MC from the booster and saw no visable signs of a leak. I checked the hose going from the booster (which I assume is the vacuum line), and it didn't have any noticable cracks or aging to it. I just can't seem ta find anything wrong. :/


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

for the time being put a return spring on the gas pedal cable by the tbi..

remove the check valve by the mc booster and blow thru it one way then the other..

it must be bad or the booster is bad..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So as I was putting the return spring onto the throttle cable I noticed something. When I manually lift the throttle "thing", the cable gets stuck for a second and then goes through the line. Like when you push a piece of paper together and the middle makes like a hill shape kinda thing like this -^-. But again,there's no such resistance at the pedal? Could it be getting stuck in the cables protective caseing??

And I went ahead and blew through the CV. The air was able to escape, and then when I sucked air in,I got nothing. So again, that tells me the CV is good. So if the CV is good, all the hoses are good, and the Booster is good, that leaves the MC right?! But it's not leaking?!?! What else could cause this problem?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

replace the cable or put an extra spring on it..

u may not be able to suck it hard enough to show a problem..

if air is escaping when u hit the pedal it has to be the booster or check vlave..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Will do. I'll replace it soon and see if that makes a difference...

Well since the CV is the least expensive item to replace (I'm still shocked that that lil piece costs $21), but anyway's, I'll replace that first and once again see if that makes a difference.

Thanks for the help Zane. I'll get at it here in a few days and I'll be sure to tell you what the results were once I'm finished....


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Still workin on it... :/


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the cable might be fraying inside the housing, causing your hesitation


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

91HB said:


> The first problem is that the gas pedal sticks. Now it doesn't stick to the floor,thankfully, instead it sticks the opposite way to where I'll have ta mash on the gas to break it loose. I've sprayed all the cables with WD40 and even cleaned the throttle bodies butterfly flap, but nothing seems ta work. It seems like a simple design. What am I missing?


Disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle body, now press gently on the gas pedal with your hand to feel if there's any binding. It's also possible that the throttle plate is sticking in the throttle body when in a closed position. Many throttle bodies have a small set screw that you can adjust to crack the throttle plate open just a little bit.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks for the input guys. I'll try all three suggestions as soon as I get the time. Work and schools keeping me busy right now,but I should have some time on Saturday to toy with it. I'll keep you updated.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So here's an update. Nothings changed. haha The reason progress has been lacking is because I also purchased a new water pump, which just came in today, so I'll be tearing into everything this Wednesday...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey. So my baby has a new water pump, and the radiator's good as new. I found the kink in the gas/throttle cable and replaced it with a new one; however, I still haven't fixed the idle/brake problem. Apparently none of the autoparts stores around my area have that size check valve, so I'm gonna have to either buy it online, or go through the dealership, so that's still a work in progress. Thanks again for the help though guys.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if you can't find one lmk.. i have them..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks Zanegrey, but I was able to find one the next day at the dealership, and I'm sorry for the late response. Either way it wouldn't have mattered whether I got the Check Valve from you or the dealership, because that isn't the culprit. I installed the new C.V today and the truck still stalls when I apply the brakes. I'm noticing a hissing noise coming from the rubber firewall bushing that gets connected to the back of the brake pedal assembly. Does this mean I got a leak somewhere in the back of the brake booster?? I felt around that rubber piece, but felt no air or anything…


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

did you put the cv on backwards ?

try diconnecting and plugging the cv and then apply brakes to see if it still stalls..

the cv should prevent the loss of vacumn when applying the brakes..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> did you put the cv on backwards ?..


I'm 99.9% sure that I have it the right way. I have the black side going to the left, and the white side going to the right, and the arrow on the white side is also pointing to the left towards the black side.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Okay,now I'm 100% sure because on the black side there's the word engine with an arrow pointing to the left.So the way I have it is correct...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

And I just tried plugging the C.V so I could apply the brakes, but the truck wont even stay running long enough for me to do so. Any suggestions??


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

there is only one connection between the brakes and engine and that is vacumn .. the cv is designed to stop the vacumn loss when the brakes are applied..

if you are hitting the brakes and the vacumn loss lets the engine die then the cv is not working ..

plug the cv first then start the engine..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Well that's what I did at first. I plugged the C.V, and then tried starting the truck,but it'd stall out. I then unplugged the C.V and let the idle return to normal. I then took the hose off one side(black) and plugged it to where the engine once again started ta stall...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

it idles normally with the brake booster hose connected ..

it will not idle with the brake booster hose plugged but disconnected..
and it dies when the brake booster hose is connected and you hit the brakes..

check the pcv lines for blow back at the valve cover ..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> it idles normally with the brake booster hose connected ..


Correct.



zanegrey said:


> it will not idle with the brake booster hose plugged but disconnected..


It will not idle with the brake booster hose plugged or disconnected.



zanegrey said:


> and it dies when the brake booster hose is connected and you hit the brakes..


Not as bad as it does when the C.V is plugged or disconnected, but the idle does drop significantly when I apply the brakes, not enough ta physically stall it however.



zanegrey said:


> check the pcv lines for blow back at the valve cover ..


How do I do that? That hose doesnt go to the valve cover?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the ka24e 's valve cover has the pcv out let on the back corner passenger side..

check it for oil leakage ..

i am thinking the pcv is clogged.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So for clearifactaion sake,imma be looking at the back passenger side of the valve cover? And once I find it,and there is oil, how would I clean it? I can't look right now becuse it's too dark, but I'll be sure ta check tomorrow morning before I go to work.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

pcv = positive crankcase vebtilation.

the hose (not plug ) comes out the back of the valve cover and goes up into the breather.

the pcv filter is down on the block underneath the intake manifold..

it is kind of a bitch to get at.. i cannot think of a reason why the engine would die when the brake lines is plugged so i am thinking the the pressure difference between the crank and the valves are different and causing it to stall..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> pcv = positive crankcase vebtilation.
> the hose (not plug ) comes out the back of the valve cover and goes up into the breather...


Oh yeah, I know which hose you're talking about...so I gotta follow it from the breather to the the pcv filter down on the block underneath the intake manifold? Then what? Do I just take it out,examine it, and clean it up?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

check the filter and or replace it..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So I examined the filter,which was really a PITA ta get at like ya said it would be, but there wasn't much oil at all. It was a lil dirty, but it was far from clogged.I cleaned it,but saw no difference. Have any other suggestions??


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i know it is tough to get to ..

can you do a compression check..?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

No, I don't have the right equipment,and my local auto parts store charges alot ta rent that tool...is there a way to check if the booster is functioning properly?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

put your finger over the vacumn outlet tube and pump the brakes.. it should push your finger off..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

You talkin' bout the hose that goes from the booster to the C.V right? How can I plug that hose with my finger? Once I disconnect the hose from the C.V, the truck dies?!


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

do not start the truck..

just unplug the big vacumn line and put your finger over it and have some one else pump the brakes..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

So nothing happened. I hadda neighbor pump the brakes for me, and I felt nothing come from the end of that hose. I did hear a hissing noise coming from the master cylinder though, but there's no leaks or anything that I can see.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

does it push air out it if when you pump it ?

put your finger just about over the hole to see if it is pushing air..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

No. There's no air coming out of it at all, which tells me that the hissing noise is the problem. The air must be escaping from there instead of going through the vacuum hose like it should, but I cant find where the leak is.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

they usually leak from the plunger side..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Plunger side? Am I looking at the master cylinder still? I see where the lines get screwed into the driver side of the cylinder, but I don't see anything on the other side that looks like a plunger. Is it this black rubber looking piece below the fluid container? BTW,thanks for being so patent with me Zane. I'm learning as I go...


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the back side of the booster as it goes into the firewall and into the cab of the truck .. the brake pedal side..

it has a rubber boot that must be punctured..

do you hear a whooshing noise as you push on the brake pedal..?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> do you hear a whooshing noise as you push on the brake pedal..?


Yes sir. When I apply the brakes, I hear a swoosh sound coming from that rubber boot, but I couldn't feel any air at that time when I felt around it: however, I thought I also heard that same noise comin' from the engine bay where the master cylinder is too! Could I just be hearing that boot leaking inside the cab?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Booster check valve is simple to test. Remove it and blow thru it. You should be able to blow thru it one way, but not the other. If it only works one way, the check valve is good and no need to waste $21.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Yeah, I learned that the C.V was good the hard way. :/ I thought for sure that the C.V was the culprit, so I ordered one from the dealership, and now of course, since the original packaging was opened, the dealership won't give me a refund. It's all good though. Zane and I are getting closer to figuring out what the problem is. Thanks though smj999smj.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

yes from the inside..

i have those boosters for sale as well..


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

I'll take a better look at it tomorrow then. How much do those go for, just in case that is the problem?


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Thanks for your response Zane. So as I said I would, I took a look at that booster. That thing was more of a pain ta get to then that PCV filter was, but I manged ta take a look at it, and I saw no holes or signs of wear on it. So I went ahead and installed it back into the truck. I'm currently going through all the vacuum hoses replacing those that hint of any stress, and I also got a O2 Sensor for free that I will install soon (since I've been told that it too could be the culprit as well). I'll keep you informed with any results...


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey guys, I'm back again. The braking issue went away for a few months,but it's came back hard this time.Now I have no brakes at all.I know where the leak is this time though,so I just got a quick question for y'all. The leak is where the master cylinder and brake booster meet, so do I need to replace the MC,booster,both,or is there something small like an O-ring that just needs to be replaced?? Thanks.


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## I Need Meds (Feb 11, 2011)

The mc just pushes fluid its the booster you should be looking at.


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