# buying used X-trail



## er1 (Apr 1, 2007)

Hello all,


We are considering buying a used ex-gov/fleet X-trail at an auction, and have several questions.

1) We are considering a 04/05 vehicle with 50-60000 kms. Will it be likely to have any mechanical problems at this age, and how long si it likely to last for?

2) the auction vehicles are sold "as is", with no warrantee. What are the little quirks and problems of the Xtrail that we should inspect carefully and consider before buying?


thanks all!


----------



## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

The X-trail's engine mechanicals and electronics are somewhat beyond the scope of most home mechanics. This means you'd need a workshop with special Nissan diagnostic and tuning equipment for something as simple as idle-speed adjust, or timing advance which have to be set with a special computer.

It's a car with brilliant power and drivetrain engineering, hidden under an otherwise normal skin. Nissan used the original X-trail as a 'mule' to test a lot of new technology which has since found its way into a lot of the newer Nissans.

If you're familiar with the processs of checking out a used car from inside out, top to bottom, then an eagle-eyed and very hands-on examination of the example you're thinking of bidding on may turn up a gem (or a lemon). You'd need to be able to start the engine, pop the hood, check the plugs and oil, stick your fingers in the exhaust pipe, among other things...

If you're merely into kicking tyres and slamming doors only, then I'd stay clear of an auction XY.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

In Australia, buying cars that are ex-goverment has been a good practise for a very simple reason. goverment fleet cars don't get trashed as often as private ones, but more importantly, they get regularly serviced and usually sold before the end of the factory warranty.

This particular exy has been drive a LOT, as it is only a 2005 model with 60,000kms on the clock. This seems to suggest that its been used in long runs, which is OK, but you can find ex-goverment cars with much less Kms than this.

It comes down to it's price at the end and it's condition.

The 2005 is a Series II in Australia and it didn't have much problems in terms of recalls. Just make sure that the service book is included with the car and which MUST show all servicing and recall information.

If it has 50,000kms on the clock, you still have the option to buy the Nissan extended warranty for it, so make sure you ask the auction AND Nissan if this would be possible for you to do as the second or third owner.

As Eddie stated above, the xtrail is a VERY reliable vehicle. I had mine for 4.5 years now with no major issues at all (touch wood) 

Being an ex-goverment car, I wouldn't think it would have been bashed around off-road, but you never know. Pop your head under the car and check the under-carriage for any possible signs of damage there.

Never buy a ex-rental car from an auction. That is for sure!


----------



## er1 (Apr 1, 2007)

heck i don't even know what kicking the tyres can tell u about a car's condition lol



well...i am just buying from pickles...


those cars are ex-gov right?


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

OK mate, you seem to be an Aussie since you mentioned Pickles LOL 

Yes, Pickles does offer ex-goverment xtrails but I didn't come across a newish model like that with so many Km's on the clock before. You may want to check the Aussie X-Trail Forum for further tips on buying second hand since you're local.


----------



## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

Check it out thoroughly as Leongster explained. But make sure to also listen for any strange noises and then I tend to belief that a vehicle in well looked after condition (clean, no damage to trim, etc.) already tells me something. Also check-out "small" things like each and every electric window.

What I have learned the hard way is that when evaluating a vehicle, try do so under different conditions: first start of the day, when driven hot, and restart after an hour. Also drive over different types of road surfaces. Take your time. Granted - all this might not be possible with an auction vehicle.

Cheers


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

With these sort of auctions in Australia, you're only allowed to crank-up the engine. No test drive, so it is the draw of luck most of the times.


----------



## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

You could learn a lot about the petrol XT's engine condition just cranking it up. 

There's a simple pre-check list before you do that:

Step 1: 

Engine off and preferbly cool to the touch. With a powerful flashlight, check the engine compartment for any sign of water leaks, oil stains, leaking hoses or loose wires. 

Check the drivebelt for scuffing, flaying or if it's got a "polished" look to it - the last characteristic suggests the drivebelt's been used past its service life.

Check the engine oil, atf fluid,and radiator fluid. Use a clean rag! 

Check for colors that aren't as they should be. Oil should be honey or amber colored at most. ATF fluid should be pinkish. Radiator fluid should be green with no trace of rust.

Step 2: 

If it's a healthy engine with a still working battery:

The engine should crank over a couple times at most and start up almost immediately. When cold, it'll rev without you touching the accelerator to around 1800rpm before settling into a fast idle (about 1200 rpm). Normal idle is between 750 to 850 rpm, once the engine is warmed up.

During this time there should be no timing chain rattle, and the valvetrain should be tapping ever so lightly before going very faint as the engine is warmed up. There should be no knocking, or slapping noises. The XT has an unusually silent running engine - thanks to its very rigid block design. (Even if it is not the smoothest idling 4-pot around.)

If all this checks out and the engine idles evenly without bogging, misfiring or 'pinging', shut off the engine and go around to the rear of the car.

Step Three: 

Have someone start the car without touching the accelerator (still cold) while you observe the tailpipe. 

Initial puff of black smoke (or better yet , no smoke) that disappears right away: the engine is probably fine. 

Continuous black smoke - the engine is running overly rich and a failing cat is on the cards. 

Continuous white smoke - this suggests a cylinder head gasket leak. 

Blue smoke - it's burning oil and you'd best skip this baby.

If the exhaust / start-up test checks out, move to 

Step Four:

Have someone rev the engine WITHOUT flooring the pedal. No smoke of any sort should be seen at all.

Then have him or her FLOOR the throttle momentarily. There should be a puff of black smoke - which should quickly disappear.

Shut the engine off and check the tailpipe with a piece of tissue.

The exhaust should be bone dry with only the slightest trace of dry black soot when you've wiped it with a clean white rag (The XT's exhaust runs very clean usually.) Some water may be present - this is normal. 

If oil is present, avoid at all cost.

___________________


This is just for the engine. 

You still won't know the condition of the cat converter, suspension bushes, CV joints, steering rack and most importantly - the gearbox. 

These require a road-test.


----------



## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

Very good & useful post, Leongster!

I do not know a lot about it (read: no experience), but another problem with checking out an used vehicle could be the buyer using additives to temporally disguise oil usage, coolant leaks or even gearbox problems. Or, what do you guys say? Probably unlikely in this case given an ex-gov vehicle?


----------

