# p0400 code EGR malfunction hard start



## sgarip14 (Oct 19, 2010)

hey guys im having this issue with my 96 maxima i have a p0400 code also i have a hard start problem i need to crank it about 6 or 7 turns before it starts now im not a nissan guy im a honda guy and ive never had a issue with EGR making a hard start can you nissan guys help me out :waving:


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Classification:
EC97-026

Reference:
NTB97-057

Date:
September 15, 1997

1995-97 MAXIMA INTERMITTENT NO START

This bulletin supersedes NTB96-103/EC96-012 dated October 23, 1996. Please discard NTB96-103/EC96-O12.

APPLIED VEHICLE:
1995-97 Maxima (A32)

APPLIED VINS:
Vehicles built before JN1CA21D8VT833870, JN1CA21D1VT215614 and JN1CA21D5VM510709

APPLIED DATE:
Vehicles built before December 10, 1996

SERVICE INFORMATION

This is not considered a product campaign; normal warranty conditions apply. Please refer to your current Flat Rate Schedule (FRT).

If a 1995-97 Maxima has difficulty starting after 2 to 4 hours cooling from operating temperature, or after an overnight cold soak at elevations above approximately 5,000 feet and ambient temperatures below approximately 40°F, the cause may be an over-rich fuel mixture during cranking. The engine will start after a long cranking period.

SERVICE PROCEDURE







1. If you can verify the incident with the conditions listed above, follow the diagnostic flowchart (cold engine, normal cranking speed).

2. Make sure the base idle is correct (see the flowchart).

3. Replace the engine control module (ECM) only if no other trouble is found. Use the chart for the correct part number.


Service Procedure "A"

If the vehicle cranks at normal speed but does not start when warm or hot, check the fuel injectors for leakage using the following procedure:

1. Release the fuel pressure.

2. Disconnect the fuel hoses between the fuel filter and the fuel tube.

3. Install a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and fuel tube.

4. Clamp the fuel return line after the fuel pressure regulator. Be careful not to damage the hose.

5. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. You may need to cycle the key on/off several times to build up pressure in the line. Wait five seconds after turning the key off before repeating the cycle.

6. Clamp the inlet fuel hose just before the fuel pressure regulator.

7. Note the reading on the fuel pressure gauge.

8. If the pressure drops to almost zero within 1 minute, remove the fuel tubes with the injectors installed and repeat the test to isolate a leaking fuel injector.


WARNING : Be sure workshop has a CO2 fire extinguisher. Keep open flames and sparks away from work area.

CAUTION : Before removing fuel line parts, carry out the following procedures:

^ Put drained fuel in an explosion-proof container and put the lid on securely.

^ Refer to "Changing Fuel Filter" in the MA section of the service manual.

^ Disconnect the battery ground cable.

^ Do not kink or twist tubes when they are being installed.

^ Do not tighten hose clamps excessively to avoid damaging hoses.

^ After installing tubes, run the engine and check for fuel leaks at connections.

9. Replace any leaking injectors and reassemble.








Service Procedure "B"

Service Procedure "C"

If the vehicle cranks fast as if it has no compression when cold, perform a cylinder leakage or compression test to verify compression loss. Compression test results of 160 psi or less may indicate carbon deposits on the valve seats. If a cylinder leakage test is performed, the front O2 sensor may be removed to listen for leakage past the exhaust valves of # 2, # 4, and # 6 to confirm this condition.

If you can confirm this condition, install C/M starter P/N
23300-31U01R. This starter has 10 teeth on the pinion gear to crank the engine faster, restoring the sealing at the valve seats more quickly. If the no start incident cannot be duplicated, but the customer describes that the engine cranks fast as if there is no compression cold, install the C/M starter. This C/M starter was applied to production on December 8, 1995. Check the "Base Idle Speed" using CONSULT (Work Support, IACV-AAC Valve Adjust) and adjust to specification if necessary.

Information for Customer

A no start condition is sometimes preceded by a driving cycle of very short duration (less than one minute). The no start incident may occur on the next starting attempt. Should this pattern be observed, the vehicle can be started by holding the throttle wide open and cranking until the engine starts. Never crank for more than 10 seconds, or the starter may be damaged by overheating. During cold weather, Nissan suggests the following procedure to make starting the vehicle easier when this incident occurs. This method is an expansion of the procedure outlined in the owner's manual and should be used to remedy a "no start" condition when ambient temperature is low.

1. Depress the accelerator pedal approximately 1/3 of the way to the floor.

2. Hold the accelerator pedal in this position while cranking the engine.

3. Once the engine has started, release the accelerator pedal. (Do not race the engine while warming it up).

4. If the engine does not start within 10 seconds, wait at least 10 seconds before cranking the engine, again repeating steps 1 through 3.


Once a vehicle is started, in cold weather conditions, the engine should be run for a minimum of two to three minutes before shutting it off. Starting and stopping the engine over a short period of time may make the vehicle more difficult to restart. This type of usage may also adversely affect a vehicle's fuel economy.

Another factor which may affect a vehicle's "startability" is the viscosity or thickness of the oil that is used. An API SG quality, SAE 5W-30 is the preferred engine oil, all year-round for most models. In colder weather, oil that is rated as 5W-30 will not thicken as much as a 10W-30 rated oil; this makes it easier to start the engine and maintain a stable idle during warm up.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Many of the P0400 codes are set due to sticking EGRC solenoid valves, but check the vacuum hoses and wiring to it first. The design of the 3.0L's intake makes it a nice place for rodents to habitate, so check the vacuum hoses and wiring to the valve and engine coolant temp sensor, first. Use a vacuum gauge to test the EGR diaphragm. Carbon buidup issues are less common, but I've encountered a few.

There were a number of starting issues with the early A32 Maximas. Cranking speed was a major issue with the early starters, which has a 23300-31U00 part number. Some aftermarket remans. that didn't update the -31U00 cores could have similar issues. Proper adjustment of the TPS and base idle are critical. Varnish buildup inside the throttle body and AAC valve can create starting issues, as well.


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## sgarip14 (Oct 19, 2010)

thanks a lot ill take her apart and check everything i just didnt want to go thru the hasle and it end up not being the egr doing the starting problem but like u said it takes a while to start after i let it sit for 2 or 3 hours but is i turn off for 5 mins it will start right up i actuallly had to but a new starter because of the cranking issue i burned my OEM on out


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## sgarip14 (Oct 19, 2010)

so guys i ended up fixing the issue with the EGR it was the solinoid...Still have the same issue... So i talk to one of my buddies that plays with nissan he told me to change the Crankshaft sensor that is a big issue and it will not throw a Code if its going bad so today ill do that ill let you guys know...


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## white_chocolate (Oct 14, 2004)

I've got the same issue with my 96 max..I have read around on other threads and read a post someone had made saying to add a couple of more ground wires due to a grounding issue the maximas was suppose 2 have had..After doing that it made a little bit of a difference but not as much as i thought it may have due to the results others were posting..

Also changed POS and REM (basically front and rear) crank position sensors and that didn't change anything..Checked vaccuum lines and diaphram on the EGR and everything appeared to be in working order..Just thought I would let everyone know what I have done to try and solve the problem but haven't recieved the results I was looking for..The car will start after a few turns of the key, sometimes when you drive it and shut it off it will start first time you turn the key, other times it takes a few turns of the key before it will start..


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## sgarip14 (Oct 19, 2010)

Your completely right i have change the camshaft sensor and crank and i had i little better result it will start fast when the car is hot but when its cold it take a while.... i was looking at the throttle body and seen there is some valve where the coolant flows and noticed it was stuck so im think it might be the issue, like i said im a honda guy and ive had a issue with a honda and it was that same valve and after i cleaned it it work great so im going to try again ill keep you guys posted


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