# 97 sentra jerks



## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Hi:
I didn't use my 97 sentra for a couple of weeks and now when it warms up, the car jerks. Any idea what the problem can be? I have changed already the fuel pump and distributor cap. The car has 110.000 miles. Thanks


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

txiki said:


> Hi:
> I didn't use my 97 sentra for a couple of weeks and now when it warms up, the car jerks. Any idea what the problem can be? I have changed already the fuel pump and distributor cap. The car has 110.000 miles. Thanks


How about checking the rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, any and all electrical connections leading to and from your engine and ECU, wiring in the dash, battery connections, TPS readings, MAF readings, knock sensor readings, O2 sensor reading (upstream, not downstream), CTS values both cold and hot, transmission fluid, or if it's a manual, clutch wear, jerks while acclerating, jerks while idling, jerks at a steady speed in town, down the highway, and any number of other things I didn't mention.

In other words...not a whole lot of information to work with here.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Thank you for the answer, I'm not a mechanic and I do not know how to check most of those items. 
It jerks when accelerating then is OK. It is standard.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Thank you for the answer, I'm not a mechanic and I do not know how to check most of those items.
> It jerks when accelerating then is OK. It is standard.


Try these in this order Txiki.

Change fuel filter and then check jerkiness

If still there, then replace rotor, sparkplugs

If still jerky, then try ignition wires - good luck


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

Check fuel pump too. Although if its the pump and not the wiring, it will prob go out very soon and then you get to push your car


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Faja:I will try in that other and let you know,
also, how can I check the fuel pump?
Thanks Faja and zacward for the help.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Faja:I will try in that other and let you know,
> also, how can I check the fuel pump?
> Thanks Faja and zacward for the help.


When you turn the key in the ACC position, you should hear a slight humming sound for a couple seconds then it will stop. You said you changed the fuel pump and distributor so I didn't comment on those. If your car is starting with no problems chances are your fuel pump is OK.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

The car starts with not problem.
I will replace the rotor, wires and spark plugs and I will let you know.
Thanks Faja.


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

You may have put your distributor in upside down.


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## mattdc_07 (Aug 3, 2008)

zacward said:


> You may have put your distributor in upside down.


:wtf:
Upside down??


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

Backwards? Where it starts on the exhaust stroke, not the intake stroke. In other words, not very descriptive but where you would take it out, try cranking or turning the crank (getting out of TDC) and then put it back in without knowing that youre doing everything wrong.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

It is installed the right way.
I have changed the rotor and after the car gets warm it start to jerk again.
PS:I was wrong I have changed the fuel filter not the pump, sorry.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> It is installed the right way.
> I have changed the rotor and after the car gets warm it start to jerk again.


It is also possible that one of your 02 sensors might be going bad as these have to warm up first also before functioning properly. It might be advisable to take it to a mechanic and have him test them for you.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Faja said:


> It is also possible that one of your 02 sensors might be going bad as these have to warm up first also before functioning properly. It might be advisable to take it to a mechanic and have him test them for you.


I will do that too. BTW, is there more than one O2 sensor? If so, where are the located? And if it is faulty, would the engine light come on?Thank you Faja.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> I will do that too. BTW, is there more than one O2 sensor? If so, where are the located? And if it is faulty, would the engine light come on?Thank you Faja.


Yes, technically there are more but the one that is in question here is the one near or on the exhaust manifold (I don't know the specifics of your car so I'm generalizing). It might not send a CEL if it's just faulty but could send wrong information to the ECU which could cause the wrong mixture of A/F that might cause the jerkiness. Remember that these are just educated guesses as I am not an expert nor a mechanic!!!


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Faja said:


> Yes, technically there are more but the one that is in question here is the one near or on the exhaust manifold (I don't know the specifics of your car so I'm generalizing). It might not send a CEL if it's just faulty but could send wrong information to the ECU which could cause the wrong mixture of A/F that might cause the jerkiness. Remember that these are just educated guesses as I am not an expert nor a mechanic!!!


Sorry but I was busy with work.
How do you remove the o2 sensor? Also, if the sensor is the problem, would the check engine light come on?
Thanks


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Sorry but I was busy with work.
> How do you remove the o2 sensor? Also, if the sensor is the problem, would the check engine light come on?
> Thanks


It should have a wiring harness that you disconnect and then use either a special 02 socket or wrench to unscrew the sensor. Lots of information on it @ Google. Let me know if you have luck


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Faja said:


> It should have a wiring harness that you disconnect and then use either a special 02 socket or wrench to unscrew the sensor. Lots of information on it @ Google. Let me know if you have luck


I didn't know what type of socket to use,I will buy one and I will try to remove it. Thanks again.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Sorry guys that I didn't respond earlier.
An update, I have replaced so far the distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and spark plugs, still the same. I didn't do the O2 sensor since I don't have any check engine light. What should be my next step?
Thanks


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Sorry guys that I didn't respond earlier.
> An update, I have replaced so far the distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and spark plugs, still the same. I didn't do the O2 sensor since I don't have any check engine light. What should be my next step?
> Thanks


Hello txiki, I would suggest cleaning the throttle body.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Sorry but I'm not a mechanic, how do you clean the throttle body do I need to take it apart? Thanks


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Sorry but I'm not a mechanic, how do you clean the throttle body? Thanks


Here's an article on how to do it.

WikiAnswers - How do you clean a throttle body


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Thanks again, I will give it a try. I forgot to mention that the jerks, starts after the car is running for 20 minutes.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I think crank sensor is going to crap, but that _should_ kick out a code (doesn't always though).
Another good one might be to swap out the ignition module inside the distributor. Misfiring after about 20 minutes would give the module enough time to heat up (i.e. overheat) and start messing up. Used to happen back in the ol' days of GM HEI...car would run fine day to day to/from work, but get 'er out on the highway and it would run like crap after 1/2 hour or so, swap out the HEI module, problem solved, I'm thinking same theory would apply here.
Also the coil could be on the way out...


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## nismoskyz (Oct 1, 2009)

hmm

im having similar issues as you txiki, although my jerking seems to be more apparent in higher gears when i'm on the freeway... 

i've also done NGK spark plugs & wires, dist cap & rotor, fuel filter, and cleaned the throttle body...

no CEL either...

I'll let try and keep the thread updated if I'm able to get it fixed...


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

txiki & nismoskyz: are you having performance issues? Like, what's your mpg's? I think you need to describe the problem in more detailed. I just went through a lot in my car and you seem to be going about it the wrong way. My major issue was my cat and through the course of me and my bro fixing my car I think we might have broken a couple of sensors that had me buying them. If your car just jerks and no problems with the mpg's I believe you should check you motor mounts. if not then have your cat checked out. 
Note on the ignition module: for the B14 ga16de- there is no module available anywhere. you have to buy the complete distributor. I opt for a new one since I dont plan in selling the car in the near future


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## AP100684 (Apr 1, 2009)

Hey guys,
wanted to add that I am experiencing a similar problem as well with my 96 sentra 5 speed. very violent jerking / choking while accelerating after 10 mins or so of driving. runs perfectly fine at idle and for the first 10 minutes when cold. i started noticing it a week or so ago and it was only minor jerking/choking in the high rpm's of the low gears. now it occurs everywhere but the very lowest rpm's of 1st and 2nd (rendering it nearly impossible to drive outside of the first 10 minutes).

i figured since it runs like a champ for the first 10 minutes i should discount the basic stuff like plugs and wires. but who knows? i've scanned and it produced no codes. dist cap + rotor are new. as is the pcv valve. cleaned the throttle body and sprayed the existing maf with maf cleaner which didn't make a difference. i have a new (used) maf on the way. checked for vacuum leaks to no avail. in recent history we have replaced the fuel pump and intermediate pipe of exhaust. added k&n air filter for god knows what reason.. not sure if any of that would make a difference. have also done various other things but i don't have my log in front of me to name them.

what else should i check? fuel filter? someone mentioned an ignition module? that seems like a possibility.. but how would i check? im really counting on this new maf to be the answer but i feel that in reality it is only a 5% chance of solving the issue.

would really appreciate any suggestions


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

AP100684 said:


> runs perfectly fine at idle and for the first 10 minutes when cold. i started noticing it a week or so ago and it was only minor jerking/choking in the high rpm's of the low gears. now it occurs everywhere but the very lowest rpm's of 1st and 2nd (rendering it nearly impossible to drive outside of the first 10 minutes).


Like after the coil warms up, or the ignitor module warms up at the same time.



> i figured since it runs like a champ for the first 10 minutes i should discount the basic stuff like plugs and wires.


Good thoughts...



> i have a new (used) maf on the way.


Doubt if the MAF would cause that exact problem that harshly.
If a MAF dies, the ECU has the MAP/IAT/RPM as a backup. The engine won't run quite as good, won't get quite as good fuel mileage, but it'll still run pretty good. The ECU will throw a code for a bad MAF...usually. Unless the computer thinks the MAF is good, and everything else is whacked...which can happen too, for instance if you've got a big ol' air leak after the MAF but before the throttle body.

I think the easiest way to check the coil and ignitor module is to swap them out with known good ones, but by then, you've already got them swapped out, why swap them back. Just keep the old ones for spares...

How sloppy is your timing chain?
Take off the dist cap. Rotate the engine by hand one way until the rotor starts to turn, then rotate the engine by hand the other way, noting how far you have to rotate the engine before the dist rotor starts to turn. That'll tell you how sloppy your timing chain is. Take note and post your results.

When it's running like crap, does it run like crap only under a good load, or does it feel smoother if you 'coast' (i.e. get up to about 50mph or so, and ease off the gas pedal, not totally off, but not enough gas to maintain speed).


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## nismoskyz (Oct 1, 2009)

Sorry for the late response here...

I can't figure out exactly when it's hesitating, it just seems to be on and off, mostly on the freeway though. It seems like it happens more when on an incline. Although, sometimes it wont hesitate at all.

I havent measured the mpg, but the fuel gauge seems to be dropping a little quicker than usual. Especially with a load though, going uphill on a freeway yesterday, I was getting hesitation in 5th, so downshifted to 4th, up at 4000RPM around 60MPH, still struggled to make it up the hill. Sometimes I increase throttle to 75%-100% just to get it to stop bogging, then it sort of "catches on" and picks up without bogging.

Yet, this morning, I got some hesitation early on, on the freeway, and later on, no hesitation at all.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

I didn't have time to work in the car, but what nismoskyz is describing is my problem, very poor miles per gallon, slow going uphill and jerking after 15 20 minutes. I'm lost.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Update, I have cleaned the throttle body and the car runs a little better, it jerks much less( 3rd gear) but not much power.


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

Finally I brought the car to the mechanic. The problem was the exhaust, it was restricted or something like that. They replace the catalytic converter and after 327 dollars the car is running great again. Thanks for the help.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

txiki said:


> Finally I brought the car to the mechanic. The problem was the exhaust, it was restricted or something like that. They replace the catalytic converter and after 327 dollars the car is running great again. Thanks for the help.


Glad you finally got it sorted out. If your car is running great now, then it was worth the effort and I'm sure you've learnt a lot in the meantime. Good luck in the future.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

that's what Im talking about! Good job. driving is a great experience when your car is in the right conditioin. The $$ was just about right. My replacement was about the same but I had to have flanges welded since my old cat was welded to the pipe. If it was not, I would have installed it myself. It actually hell working below a car when you dont have a lift


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## nismoskyz (Oct 1, 2009)

wow, glad you got it fixed!

ouch, $300, at least the issue is resolved

that's a little steep for me though, i might have to bear with the issue for a while :/ 

thanks for sharing your solution


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

txiki said:


> Finally I brought the car to the mechanic. The problem was the exhaust, it was restricted or something like that. They replace the catalytic converter and after 327 dollars the car is running great again. Thanks for the help.


A vacuum gauge on the manifold would've indicated a clogged cat, as well as a pressure gauge temporarily plumbed into the O2 sensor hole. And either one would've shown the problem easily within a minute of starting the engine. Any _GOOD_ mechanic should know that. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad for you that the problem is fixed, I just fail to see how it would take 10 minutes for the problem to rear it's ugly head. I get the whole 'backed up gasses tripped the O2 sensor towards the lean side causing the ECU to pump more and more fuel until it was blubbering rich and stumbling' thing. Again, it's the 10 minutes. I would figure the engine would start running like crap within 1 or 2 minutes, not 10...


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## txiki (Nov 10, 2006)

They took out the O2 sensor and the car start to run much better. After it is fixed looks very easy, but I'm not a mechanic.
I did learn a lot from this problem.
Thank you very much for the help.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Well, that'll work too. At least it's fixed...

Ya know, I just noticed something about the title of this thread...
'97 Sentra Jerks...
--conversation the day after a big car show---
"So, how many of them were at the car show?"
"There was 97 of them, all of them with Sentra's."
"Yep, that's what I thought. 97 Sentra Jerks."


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

jdgrotte said:


> Well, that'll work too. At least it's fixed...
> 
> Ya know, I just noticed something about the title of this thread...
> '97 Sentra Jerks...
> ...


I saw that too but didn't comment on it. As soon as I have the funds Im getting sr20det and run everyone off the road!!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jopet said:


> I saw that too but didn't comment on it.


Dangling modifiers...is that what they that...when you can take a phrase and turn it around completely and make it into something else



> As soon as I have the funds Im getting sr20det and run everyone off the road!!


Hell are there any of those left these days?


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## AP100684 (Apr 1, 2009)

just wanted to post that a distributor swap resolved my jerking issues (ty junkyarddog dot com for the $87 replacement). this was unexpected because both the cap and rotor were less than a month old.
the inside of the cap was carbon-caked and the rotor itself was loose.. which was very odd.. since the screw holding it was still tightly in place (thanks to the thread-lock glue we used when installing it). somehow the hole in the rotor which the screw passes through had widened into an oval allowing it to slip around. weird huh?

after taking the dist. apart we saw the inside was carbon-caked as well. any ideas how this might have happened?


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## AP100684 (Apr 1, 2009)

recap:
tried..
changing plugs and wires
installing a new MAF
running BG44K fuel system cleaner
inspecting fuel injectors
inspecting cat converter

and finally..
installing a new (used) distributor, which ultimately solved it.

at least it was a learning process... and a reminder of the validity of Occam's razor.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

So, are you thinking it was the rotor dancing around on the shaft in there, or the electronics of the distributor itself causing the problem?


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## nismoskyz (Oct 1, 2009)

i dont think most people realize what a blessing it is to have a motor that delivers a smooth power output throughout its powerband

it can be pretty frustrating driving a car that bogs, sucks all the fun out of driving...

finally got my issue resolved though, thank God... 
turned out that the valve cover was not seated properly after a change of the valve cover gasket and so

the little rectangular seal under the valve cover was not seated properly and so

oil was sucked in through the pcv valve in large amounts producing huge clouds of smoke, along with, of course, the horrible bogging i was experiencing.

since the valve cover gasket was replaced along with the small rectangular seal under the valve cover, the car has been finally driving well once again.

thanks for all the suggestions and input!


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## nismoskyz (Oct 1, 2009)

(ignore).

above spam reported...


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## SentraThis96 (Nov 14, 2009)

*Similar problem resolved*

I had a similar problem after I replaced my neutral safety switch, had my battery out for about an hour. Put the battery back in, started it up just fine and when i would hit a certain rpm in each gear engine jerked as if it was starving for air. Checked all my engine control fuses which were fine. I had to reset the ECM which i did by disconnecting the battery for an hour (I have read it only needs to be disconnected for 45 minutes but left it out for 15 mins more just to be safe) started it up, let it idle for about 20 minutes without hitting the brake (have also read depressing the brake pedal may send funky signal to ECM while its trying to recalibrate) after the car had been idling for about 20 minutes i took it out for a test run and red lined without any problems. :waving:


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

I had to replace a distributor recently. Was $400 total for the mechanic to fix it. I know the work can be done at home, but I have no tools and no garage. Oh well...

Car acceleration was erratic and surgy. Would be sluggish then suddenly roar to life. Then one day, I heard a clunk and the distributor died.

Also had the EGR backflow valve have to get replaced recently too. My cheap commuter car is costing me moolah.


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## jwin200sxlove (Feb 3, 2009)

i dont mean to bring this old thread back up but my car is doing the same (97 2oosx se-r) my mechanic told me it could be the knock sensor and it could be retarding the timing which is causing my car to read a misfire in cylinder one... i change all plugs new spark plugs all injectors are working fine and i have a new O2 sensor.... what do you guys think? i doubt that the knock sensor has/had ever been replaced on my 200sx the people i bought it from never changed the freakn fuel filter... i did the day i got it ...im tired of it doing this crap to me because i know that the car has way more power than im getting... at 110mph it stalled on me ..wtf? my ga16de 200sx did 120mph without a problem i really need help please... ive been reading all night to see what was up about the knock sensor and no one has yet to confirm my mechanics belief what do you guys think? 
thanks


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## SentraThis96 (Nov 14, 2009)

Is your service engine soon light on? If so I would definitely pull codes. Have you replaced your knock sensor? A bad KS could definitely cause this. Also could be bad EGR Valve/poor EGR circulation. Another thing that could be happening is a clogged cat (catalytic converter), if your exhaust gases can't get out it will cause SEVERELY poor engine performance. If you haven't upgraded your exhaust this could definitely be the problem as well. A clogged cat can cause shaky idle RPM's, very poor acceleration and poor overall performance. If you have pulled codes and replaced your KS which is what your mechanic told you it is and you are still having problems I would make sure your timing is right and then check that cat, I suggest changing to a high flow cat if you wanted to optimize your performance. Some people say gutting the cat or just straight piping your exhaust gives you more horsepower, although this is sometimes true on some engine like the SR20 engines you need that back pressure otherwise you'll have poor compression because your exhaust valves aren't opening and closing like they should. Another thing you can try is checking your fuel pump? Jerking may mean that your not getting enough fuel to the fuel rail and could definitely cause a cylinder misfire.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

jwin- 
I dont know how to got a ga16de to 120mph but that's not impossible. I got to drive a 2 yo b13 before in my homeland at about the same speed but we have higher octane gas there and cars there dont have emission devices. (ie egr, cat)

on your SR20, does get to 110mph with no problem then stops accelerating? If yes read this:

http://www.nissanforums.com/b14-95-99-chassis/92720-about-speed-limiter.html


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## lukesSX (Feb 17, 2010)

Did you get a code? If so, then was it when you were doing 110mph or during normal driving?


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## SentraThis96 (Nov 14, 2009)

Jopet said:


> jwin-
> I dont know how to got a ga16de to 120mph but that's not impossible. I got to drive a 2 yo b13 before in my homeland at about the same speed but we have higher octane gas there and cars there dont have emission devices. (ie egr, cat)
> 
> on your SR20, does get to 110mph with no problem then stops accelerating? If yes read this:
> ...


It sounds more like a performance problem and I'm pretty sure the speed limiter isn't at 110, i know on GA's the speed limiter is at like 125.


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## AP100684 (Apr 1, 2009)

don't know how much it will apply to your situation, but my problem was (and still is) a chronic rotor button rejection. somehow that dang thing would wiggle loose causing the car to jerk and studder then finally die on the side of a highway. didnt matter how many times we replaced the button and cap- it would always happen. i can swap that thing out in about 5 minutes now. anyways, we ended up boring the hole to a larger, wide thread, and using a stronger bolt with red thread lock have it secured pretty firmly. been ok for 10k but im not getting my hopes up haha.
good luck.. its a pita


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