# How to convert to an MPFI E16 THE WHOLE STORY!!



## SuperHatch (Dec 3, 2002)

Ok, you all want to know how to do it right? Here it is. First you need the intake manifold from a 83 E15T Pulsar Turbo, it'll bolt right up, best bet is to look on www.car-parts.com and make sure you get the upper and lower assembly. Next you need a throttle body from a 91 GA16De with the Throttle Posit. Sens. on it.. then you need a fuel pump from a 91 Ford E350 5.8L v8 external... and a fuel pressure regulator for a 84 BMW 318i which will mount after the fuel rail. You will also need a computer and MAF for a 91-92 Sentra GA16DE (this is what I used) I also reccommend a new coolant temp sensor for a 91 GA16DE and a new O2 sensor from the same year as well... grab a METAL FUEL FILTER, with a one way in, one way out.. (NOT PLASTIC FILTER, IT CANNOT HANDLE THE PRESSURE) and about 3 feet of 5/16 fuel injection line plus the carbon canister from a 91 GA16de...once you have all these parts you should be good to go.. the fuel pump will mount where the old fuel filter went on the B11 ( i'm not sure where you should mount it on a B12) the filter will mount just below it.. convert all the lines over to EFI.. remove the old intake manifold and remove your fender (driver side fender for B11 owners) cause you are going to be cutting out a lot of wires that go to the computer.. take out the drivers seat (passengers on a B12) and trace all those wires to the engine compart ment and cut them, along with the relays.) Reconnect your battery every now and then and turn on your turn signals, high beams and blah blah to make sure you didn't cut what you shouldn't have, cause then I can't help you... HEED THAT WARNING MY FRIENDS... after you got all that crap outta there, bolt up the new intake making sure you plug those two little coolant lines on the bottom of the EFI intake manifold cause they will leak (I just ran a coolant hose from one side to the other). Buy a fuel pump block off plate for a small block chevy and some RTV silicone (I used RTV Blue) get plenty of washers too, (cause you gotta build it up to bolt it down, now bolt it down) Make sure you also have the fuel injector connectors for a mid 80's volvo (they were the most accessable.. leave about 4 inchs of wire to work with... then get yourself the wiring that goes from the computer all the way to the engine compartment, now listen to me very carefully when I say this.. The computer sits behind the dash console (under the radio) on a 91-94 GA16DE and the wires that go to the computer go right through the fire wall and connect to the engines VITAL components. Now you're going to say "What about the connectors that go off to the other part of the car from the computer" Well TRACE THOSE WIRES TO THE COMPUTER CONNECTION (for the diagnostic equip.) AND THAT'S ALL YOU NEED.. oh save that little green relay that connects to the side of the computer on under the dash, it's the Fuel injector clicker relay... also get a fuel pump relay for a 91 GA16DE and then wire it.. here's how it wires up.. I THINK 1,2 or 3,4 (It's one of those two, play around till it works) are a constant power, I.E. (from your ingition switch or a battery) then 3 or 4 (again, play around) is a signal from the computer and then the last one is the power to the fuel pump... now, where to mount the computer?!?! Here's a good spot on your B11.. on the right shock tower, mount it inward, it will be well kept from your friend driving your car and crashing it so it won't ruin the little bugger... and then run your wires along the back of the fire wall (not under your radiator, cause those will break when your friend crashes your car and then you won't be able to get them out and then it would go to crap).. luckily I thought this all out and you get to reap the benefits.. anyways you have 3, I said three!! power wires coming out of computer, red with a yellow dash (NOT A STRIPE, IT"S JUST A DASH THAT ALL OF THE WIRES HAVE, I'm yelling cause I don't want to hear how Joe Blow melted his comp or something) let me restate this... you have a red wire and a purple wire both with a dash ( a yellow dash if I remember correctly) red I believe is the ignition and then the purple is when it's on at accsessories.. one of those two.. then you have a white wire which goes right to the battery, it's known as a fuseable link... I'd wire the computer directly to the battery for now so that you know it will work at first... the timing is going to be an issue for you people cause It was for me.. let me give you my dilema.. I installed everything and had a vacuum leak, no power and it would cut out after it warmed up... first.. we pluged the leak, then we realized that the coolant temp sensor was telling the computer that it was cold and to flood the motor... so you NEED TO INSTALL THAT, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT, install it where the old one went, I used the sleeve from the old coolant temp sensor that is right under the distributor... and an 11MM Helicoil.. (I'm not going to explain that, you're just going to have to learn how one of those works...) Next you'll learn that our distributors rotate counter clockwise and that the 91's rotate clockwise.. this createsa brief problem.. you simply wire it so that the computer thinks it's going the opposite direction there are 4 wires on your E16 dist. along with 4 wires from the GA16De dist. Harness. Wire it like this.. SO PAY ATTENTION!... BLACK WIRE TO BLACK WIRE, it's a ground... RED-BLUE WIRE (88 and below) TO YELLOW WIRE (on the GA16DE harness, this detects when the dist. has moved 1degree...) the RED/BLACK WIRE on 88 and below Dist. to the BLUE WIRE on the GA16 Harness and finally the last one to the remaining wire.. (that's a no brainer).. NOW LISTEN TO THIS TOO.. when I started my car, it ran, but it was very weak.. we couldn't figure it out till my know it all girlfriend said "Hmmm, maybe it's the timing you sack of ***$#" and I said "You shut your fat gah!!" But that's a different story... But she was RIGHT... It was the timing.. you know on the E16's there's that little stud that prevents you from advancing the timing further? Well you get to remove that, and turn it way beyond what it's supposed to be, that's how you gain the power and now "The circle is complete"... You don't need that idle air control valve or fast idle control valve.. but you will need to bolt up the throttle body for the GA16de plenum to the E15t Plenum, it will work.. trust me, it bolts right up, plus it's larger.... now plug all the little harnesses in.. OH YOU'LL NEED A COIL FROM A 1991 GA16DE, to mount in there.. cause the computer plugs right into it.... READ THIS CAREFULLY CAUSE I"M GETTING TIRED AND PROPER GRAMMAR IS NO LONGER AN OPTION WHEN I GOTTA WAKE UP AT 6 TO GO TO SCHOOL SO READ THIS AND PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE WORDS WILL CHANGE.. OK... The INJECTOR CONNECTORS from the 80's Volvo that you got will NEED TO BE SPLICED into the HARNESS ON the 91GA16DE.. These new connectors (from the 80's Volvo) will REPLACE the injector connectors for the 91GA16de, it doesn't matter which way you splice them in there, they WILL WORK EITHER WAY YOU SPLICE THEM IN, but I did it WHITE TO WHITE and green to the other wire... (those were the color of my 80's volvo connectors, white/green) mount the knock sensor in the back of the motor (there's a threaded hole for it on the E16 below the intake, do this first)... make sure you have that MAF, o2, coolant temp, TPS and FUEL INJECTOR connectors on there cuase otherwise it won't work properly.. for those of you with intank fuel pumps for the TBI E16, I don't know if your pump will be sufficient for the job... I know that I left the stock sending unit in my tank and just changed the lines over to EFI and evyerhtintg was hunky dorey...so you can suck my fat noodle cause I did the ONLY E16 SWAP AND THAT LITTLE CRITTER HAULED ASS AND IT WAS THE BEST THING I COULD HAVE EVER DONE!!!!!!!!!!That thing was soooo beast.. I just wish my friend didnt' kill it.. gosh dang it... I rarely curse which is why I my forums are pretty clean... but man I couldn't believe we pulled it off.. it was so beast..but that's that... and I'm tired and this thing is as long as a mother brother so you all can read it, beat off while reading it, I don't care... I got a 1986 Nissan Sentra B11 Wagon with NO OPTIONS that as soon as I get it through VA emissions test and pass it, BOOM, in goes the EFI harness.. I just don't want them to say anything cause it's a changed over fuel system that even though is more efficient, doesn't comply with their records, but I'll worry about that when I get it down the road.. oh and can you believe this, this wagon I bought for 500 bucks had no muffler, the front seats were painted and I drove 150 miles for a pile of crap.. I drove to PA for it.. but hey, it's a RUST FREE CALIFORNIA CAR so I got me an 86 that will last me cum bucket load of a long time, he he he.... Oh, if anyone wants to buy the old motor out of my old E16 I'm selling it.. it has 105 K on it, and I owned it for 14 K of it, I bought the car (the crashed one) from this old guy and he drove it like an old person would... so if you want a good reliable motor talk to me.. but I'm going nap nap now..please respond to my poll... hope this crap isn't crap, but useful crap... PS,longest POST EVER, I MEAN, EVER!!! MUAHAHAHHA!! How 'bout no! You crazy dutch bast**8


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2003)

Thanks for the awesome information. I may be putting a GA16DE into my B12, and this information will be just as useful for that swap.  Where'd you get the 8mm wires? Did you notice a performance difference when you first put in the MSD 6AL? Do you still run that 6AL with this computer?


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## SuperHatch (Dec 3, 2002)

I ordered the MSD 8 cylinder universal wiring set and just custom spliced the lengths of the spark plug wires, the MSD 6AL box hooked up to the EFI injection was incredible.. I'm acting like I was talking with the President here.. but you'd would have had to of driven this thing to see the performance gain.. the 6AL was nice because I could put in the lil' rev limiters and control myself from over-revving the little critter.. I usually used a 3000 rpm limiter cause sometimes I would like to just jam that guy up to 5 or so.. and I felt bad for doing it... but anyways, if I were you, I'd do the conversion first before I put in the 6AL box... but if you don't do the conversion it's a nice little thing to have.. if you're on the highway and doin' like 75 with the AC goin' and tuggin' a car full of people, that's when you really notice the difference... that's when I did at least....... ^_^ hope this helps...


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## Guest (Jan 31, 2003)

Sounds nice. I'll have to get myself one. Your rev limits sound a bit insane. I rev mine up to 5 all the time, sometimes to 6 grand. heh.. My tachometer is all the rev limitter I need.


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## B11sleeper (Oct 15, 2003)

sounds very complete!
if i were going to do a MPFI e16 that would be most helpful, and if you're making a turbo e16 then mpfi is mandatory!


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

hmmm....now do i want an MPFI E16...or just throw a CA20E in? I'm not trying to say there is anythign wrong with doing this conversion, it would be cool and beasty...but I see an engine swap being better. I suppose though that if you're doing racing and they require orignalish engine you could do that...but it wouldn't beat those VWs out there on the track


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

and what about using one of those haltech units for the mpfi conversion instead?? To me that would seem easier to tune good and easier to wire up probably too. just my .02


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## RockyB (May 3, 2002)

Gsolo said:


> and what about using one of those haltech units for the mpfi conversion instead?? To me that would seem easier to tune good and easier to wire up probably too. just my .02


You can use Haltech, SDS, or the multitude of standalone systems, but it all come down to money. To do it superhatch's way is less costly, but no real tuning advantage. I can't see myself spending about $3000 for a standalone. I rather just get myself a newer car.
Rocky


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## Gsolo (Sep 11, 2003)

RockyB said:


> You can use Haltech, SDS, or the multitude of standalone systems, but it all come down to money. To do it superhatch's way is less costly, but no real tuning advantage. I can't see myself spending about $3000 for a standalone. I rather just get myself a newer car.
> Rocky


i heard that the haltech was $700...but i actually haven't looked into it that much myself so its kinda heresay


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## RockyB (May 3, 2002)

That is just a figure I guessed at. I've seen some systems that are cheaper then others running from $700-$3000. Plus you have to consider the added sensor you have to add to get the system functioning properly.
Rocky


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## Nismo87R (Mar 25, 2003)

so what ur saying superhatch is that u made the e16 fuel injected with the ga16de computter wire harness and afm if u did that then why cant you use the ga16de harness and computter to work with the e15t swap its pretty much the same thing its all ready fuel injected all you have to do is make it run right damm i think i just figure out how to make my friends e15t in his sentra run


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## B11sleeper (Oct 15, 2003)

I'm gonna re-format all that text after i get it figured out. would be way easier to read 

i have to dig into this part and see what else i have to do.


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## SuperHatch (Dec 3, 2002)

Nismo87R said:


> so what ur saying superhatch is that u made the e16 fuel injected with the ga16de computter wire harness and afm if u did that then why cant you use the ga16de harness and computter to work with the e15t swap its pretty much the same thing its all ready fuel injected all you have to do is make it run right damm i think i just figure out how to make my friends e15t in his sentra run



Yes I did make the E16 EFI with the GA16DE harness and AFM. You can't plug the GA16dE harness into the E15T one because there are totally different harness plugs, specs and the computers are totally different. Besides even if you COULD get it to work properly, the computer would still be pumping out too much fuel because it thinks that it has a turbo attached, and the timing curve, etc. etc. would be programmed for a turbo. The GA16DE is the closest thing that you're going to be able to find to the E16. All you need are the parts that I listed... If you have the time to read the long ass forum I left.. hah!


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## B11sleeper (Oct 15, 2003)

my e15t dizzy has like black, red, green, yellow wires, I think... I haven't made much progress yet beyond getting the ground hooked up. Is there some sort of protocol for the color codes? Should i assume red hooks to something on the ga16 harness that feeds +12 and the yellow and green go to data + and - sorts of things on the harness? This is kinda hung me up since i haven't dared actually put power to the ECU yet.

was your e16 was a tbi model before? because my e16 dizzy is the old style, it's electronic, but i think it's hall effect, so it doesn't send crank angle to the ECU.

any info would be helpful.


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## BII (May 13, 2004)

I hate to bump old threads but I came upon this:

200sx efi swap

I'm wondering a couple things:

Could other years besides 1980 work? I'm guessing yes, but I need to now what years (I'm assuming this a CA16/18 EFI).

Would the 1987+ distributor (the one with the Crank Angle Sensor) work? I'm guessing yes.

Finally, the California models (from the scanned pages) look to have to Spark Plugs per cylinder. Can the EFI system still be used and hook up the E16 dizzy to the Cali EFI? I guess yes.

Anyways, this seems to be another alternative to the GA16DE's EFI swap.


Another question: E16S do not have a return line to the gas tank (as don't many other cars like the 510). How do you hook up a fuel pump when missing this return line? Do you use an overflow tank like the radiator?

I'm running the weber, and its nice, but I want to eventually turbocharge and run N2O (finally turn it to a beast). I have the E15T MPFI manifold, whihc I figured would be the hard part.


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