# 1983 Pulsar NX



## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

So I picked up a Pulsar NX for $450. Considering its price, im surprised it drove. It has the gutless N/A engine (E16?) With a worn out old carb on top and a tank full of stale gas. The title was signed and notarized in 2009 and the miles have not changed since. Thinking about it, I'm surprised it even ran. I drained the tank, installed a new fuel filter, put some new gas in and fired it up. It runs better now, but still terribly. It shudders and shakes when you press the gas and hardly accelerates. 
I'm sure it's a carb issue from sitting so long, the car only has 112K on the odometer. I went to pull the carb, but was taken aback at the rats nest of vacuum lines and didn't want to put it back together wrong. The lines could also be part of the running issue, in thinking the best decision will be a new Weber 32/36 carb and possibly a rebuild kit to replace leaky seals and squeeze fresh life into the motor. 
I'm wondering if it would just be worth it to swap another engine in, but that seems like a lot of work still for not much of an improvement.
My next thought is to do a motorcycle conversion. Find a cheap, large motorcycle that runs, but has been crashed or something. I'm thinking a Honda Magna 1100 for the V4 shift drive engine. Take the motor and mounts off of that and find a small truck or rwd car to pull an axle from, hopefully I can find one that will fit with little issue. 
Anybody have any thoughts or ideas? My budget is usually relatively tight, I'm pretty likely to spend quite a few weekends in the junkyard looking for good, cheap parts.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Can you get the carb kit (even aftermarket, if not OEM)? If so, it would be fairly straightforward (and least cost) (though time-consuming) to remove the carb and separate it into its chambers and thoroughly clean out all the passages from each chamber, and then re-install the new parts (gaskets, seals, filter, et al).

The hoses are standard size vacuum diameters.

Note one or more may have an embedded (step-down) (metal) (cylindrical) orifice in them; so when replacing those, note the direction of the orifice and carefully remove it and re-insert it the same distance into the new hose as the one being replaced.

Know what you mean about the vacuum hoses. There are 53 on our E16S. I labelled each one (with white bic pen) and took pics as well. No issues then. 

You mentioned the tank and f.f., but did you purge the fuel lines as well? What about the fuel pump itself? What about the fuel hose from the f.f. to the pump and the hose from the pump to the carb and the return hose from the carb to the (metal line back to the) tank? 

It also wouldn't take too line to replace all the vacuum hoses, as just that single-focused job.

There also may be a small black plastic 1-way check-valve at the back of the car just to the side of the tank that could be clogged. Easy to replace, and would be worth replacing its input and output hose.


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## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

That's good advice there.
I bought some new vacuum lines and Chilton manual with the vacuum diagrams and felt a lot better about pulling the carb. The bowl was filthy, I cleaned that out and all of the jets and it was a touch better. 

While working on it, I also found lines that ran from the exhaust manifold into the air can (as if the intake heating element wasn't bad enough). I pulled one and it had straight exhaust coming from it, kind of sounded like a tractor. WHY THE HELL WOULD THEY INTENTIONALLY HOOK THE EXHAUST UP TO THE AIR INTAKE? I took that line off and looped it back into itself, that cleaned up the idle more than anything else. While I was at it, I also pulled the crankcase vent from the air can. Whoever thought of running that into the air intake was obviously smoking something strong. I'm buying the Weber carb when I get paid, I want nothing to do with this EPA bullshit that's on there currently and I've heard nothing but happiness from people who have done the same.

I haven't purged the fuel lines, it couldn't hurt though. Should I just pull them from each end and blow compressed air through them?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Actually, the system works pretty well and is fairly trouble free if one knows how to work on it. Exhaust gas is routed back into the engine on most cars for the last 40 years or so to improve emissions, but also to help control combustion temperatures. The exhaust pipe goes up to a reed valve, which is part of the IAV, and you really shouldn't run the engine with the pipe disconnected and not plugged. The Hitachi 2 bbl. is a good carburetor, but can be tricky to work on for those with no patience nor much experience working on them. I would recommend replacing the fuel pump; you can get a new one from Rockauto.com for under $15 (carb rebuild kit costs about the same). Stick with genuine NGK or genuine Nissan when it comes to ignition components (plugs, wires, cap & rotor). 1983 should be pre-VCM system, meaning it should have a regular choke on the carb and a distributor with a vacuum advance; if so, make sure the vacuum advance is still good...if you should stick with the E16s engine. I would also replace the timing belt. The E16 was never a powerhouse; in its day, it was sufficient for moving the car and it got very good gas mileage (I recall some customers at the Nissan dealer claiming 35 MPG, which was pretty good back then, especially when you look at what US domestics were doing. Other than the lack of power, the only bad thing about the E-series engines is that you would run into the occasional head gasket failure, which wasn't bad to replace, and the occasional ignition module failure.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Hondadavidson said:


> ... the intake heating element ... I pulled one and it had straight exhaust coming from it ... I took that line off and looped it back into itself, that cleaned up the idle more than anything else. ... I also pulled the crankcase vent from the air can.
> 
> I haven't purged the fuel lines, it couldn't hurt though. Should I just pull them from each end and blow compressed air through them?


Did you ohm-test the mixture heater? Is the heater relay clicking on (at cold start)?

Sounds like the (exhaust recirc) reed valve is stuck open (with carbon build-up on it) (since you by-passed it and things improved). Not hard to access and clean. Can't recall if there is a rubber grommet around that opening or not. If so, protect it during (reed valve) access. Do you remember, SMJ, on a grommet?

On the pulled crankcase vent, did you check and q-tip-clean-out the VC port and that hose and the connector on the air cleaner? And was there a small white filter in the air cleaner for that that needs replacing (for flow and for carb/jet protection)?

On the fuel lines, yeah, that would be good to compress-air them out ... and to replace the hoses, at least in the engine bay.

Is there an EGR valve on that year on the side of the IM, and if so, if you lift it up with your index and middle fingers - car off/not running - does the valve lift up and immediately re-settle down when you release your fingers? If so, probably no undesired exhaust throughput that way. If no, or if in doubt, then I'd remove it, try to clean it but probably would just replace it. Also, is there a BPT valve just upstream on your car to the side of the carb, with a hose-and-small-pipe-run from it to the EGR? If so, replace that (vacuum-pulling) hose to the EGR as well and thoroughly clean-out that small bendy hose, and replace that BPT valve. They have a small circular filter around their top (hat) periphery that gets restricted.

You've made much progress. All good stuff. You're obviously gonna get there!

Also, concur with SMJ's info. He worked on Nissans for many years.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I think when he mentions the "intake heating system," he is not referring to the electric heater grid under the carb, but the IAV system. The intake heater is electrical and has nothing to do with the exhaust system. As far as the rubber grommet around the reed valve, I believe there is a rubber seal, but can't be 100% sure as it's been a long time since I had one apart. I do actually have a B11 Sentra with an E16s engine sitting in my driveway, but I'm scared what might jump out if I open the hood! Probably wasps!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

SMJ, didn't realize the B11s had the E16S (thought that was only the B12s, before the Ga16i replaced it late in the B12s, '89/'90). If so, then there are (at least) 2 E16S survivors in VA. Nice. Open the hood on ours everyday . Current mileage 274991. Drive it everyday.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

E-series were around for a while in the US. They replaced the A-series engine in the Datsun 310. There were a few N12 Pulsars that had an E15 turbo engine in addition to the naturally aspirated E-motor. All of the B11 Sentras had the E-series. The early KN13 Pulsar NX's (not the NX SE's, which had the CA engines) had the E16i as well as the AWD Sentras and Sport Coupes, until they were replaced by the GA16i engine. The B12 sedans started out with the E16s, but moved to the E16i in 1988 and then that was replaced by the GA16i for the 89-90 model years. The worst thing that happened to these engines was the replacement of the choke with the VCM system, which added a ton of vacuum hoses, an actuator, a filter, a couple of of thermo switches and the vacuum control module, itself. When it worked, it was okay. But, when it didn't, people were more prone to messing it up more rather than fixing it and Nissan did a poor job of explaining it in the service manual. They did a better job in an article in Nissan's Tech Talk magazine, a publication sent to the dealer tech's, but finding that article is almost impossible to find these days.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

I've been looking (all over) for 2 to 3 of the new OEM (NOS) VCM air filters - the round yellow'ish-colored metal can-shape filter (3 to 4" diameter) with the 2 same-size hose ports that sits next to the blue starter relay - for quite some time. 

You happen to have any or know where they might be sitting on a shelf in a bin, waiting for a happy home? 

They had the 360' pleated filters inside.

I think the Pulsar used the small more-cylindrical black plastic air filter in that same location, but with just 1 of the ports (the other port came from the factory/supplier/warehouse with a rubber vacuum cap glued on). It was the same air filter as the ISCA air filter, but that had both ports used in that location. 

How could we go about tracking down the Tech Talk article? Do you remember what year it was published?

Was it a monthly or quarterly?

It's neat knowing there are 2 surviving E16S here (in VA).

There's also a surviving GA16i in VA.

P.S. Over the years, replaced every part of the VCM system, except the ISCA itself. And, each time, after doing so, found the part replaced didn't need replacing; they all still had been soldering on. Well engineered. I'd love to meet those engineers and show them their success all these years later.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I don't know where any NOS VCM parts are. I haven't worked for Nissan since 2003, but I do know the part you are referring to. If I'm not mistaken...and I could be...those filters initially came as an update kit listed as a service file in the parts catalog. Usually those filters weren't the problem. There is a tiny screen in the VCM, itself, that used to get clogged and keep the system from working unless you tapped the VCM with a hammer or carefully took it apart and cleaned the screen. I've seen two other B11's down my way, so there are a few laying around.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Oh, as far as the Tech Talk article, I don't remember. I believe it came out in the early '90's and I don't remember how often it came out; they would just send a bunch of them to the dealers and they got passed out to the techs. It wasn't very big and I did save that copy, but I'm not sure where it's at or if I can still find it.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<update kit listed as a service file >

Was the update kit - initially - for the Pulsars or for the Sentras? Any idea how I can have the local dealer's parts folks find THAT service file?

<I did save that copy, but I'm not sure where it's at or if I can still find it>

Great, if you happen to find it, please let me know.

<There is a tiny screen in the VCM, itself, that used to get clogged and keep the system from working unless you tapped the VCM with a hammer or carefully took it apart and cleaned the screen. >

Looking down on the VCM (made by Atsugi), there is a small 1 1/4" (horizontal-sitting/parallel to the ground) square (part of the VCM) (under the solenoid) that is to the right of the large 3-4" diameter perpendicular-sitting round valve (part of the VCM) (round part sits facing the wheel well).

Was the screen inside the square? There are 4 small phillips screws in each top corner of the square, and the square has a small rectangular black rubber grommet that seals it.

Never knew about the screen - always figured the rubber grommet was the potential 'future' failure part of it.

I cut open a junkyard metal VCM air filter and it looked robust, as though no dirt would ever get through it (multiple layers).

Are you saying the screen would get clogged from air passing through the metal filter ... or air from the vacuum line?

How do you clean the screen? 

Does it just remove out/lift out?

Carb-cleaner to clean it?

And, SMJ, why are there 2 air hoses (both 5/16") from the metal air filter to the VCM - one above solenoid cylinder (above square) and one below the square (part)? It's not at all clear studying the valve, how/why the air filter would send filtered air into both of those hoses. (There are 2 vacuum hoses to the VCM.)


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The service file would have been for both, likely, as there wasn't any difference between the engines between the B11 and N12, with the exception of the E15 turbo. I would imagine the parts have long been obsolete and no longer available. You would have to find a Nissan wholesale parts catalog from that era and the service files were listed in a section in the back (references to the service file were made by the part affected by the service file in the main section of the catalog, itself). 
You would take the VCM apart to get to the filter (it was really just a tiny screen and you could wipe it clean or use brake cleaner, if you wished). As far as the "how to" or operation of the VCM, I don't remember off the top of my head. And while I do have one sitting in the yard, it's been probably five or six years since I've had the hood open on it and it's probably been over 15 years since I worked on a VCM system. I've forgotten much more than I remember about it. I just remember having them come in with no fast idle, walking over to it with a hammer and tapping on the VCM and then it would work again!


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## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

So I've done some work on the Pulsar recently. While changing out the plugs, I saw the middle two were black, so I checked the firing order to find that it was wired wrong. Fixing that took care of a LOT. It still didn't feel completely alive yet, the stock carb was the culprit.
My Weber 32/36 came in today, I opted for the manual choke for a little more control over things. I had some difficulty with the install since the carb studs couldn't be removed, I even broke one trying. I ended up getting crafty by red threadlocking nuts on thr studs after installing the bottom spacer and grinding everything flat. Hope that never needs to come off in the future. 
The rest of the install went smooth, the carb looks great and performs even better; I'll post pictures soon. This really woke the car up, it hauls now. If anybody has considered a Weber swap, just do it.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

SMJ, thanks for the service file info and VCM screen info.

Honda, 2 and 3 swapped huh? 1-3-4-2, right? Good deal on the weber carb work. The stock carbs on the E16S B12s have 2 bolts accessible from the top - easy access - but 2 underneath. Always dislike that part of the carb jobs. Hard to access them (from above, with no lift). Slows the job.

Glad you found your solutions. Will keep look-out for the pics.


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## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

It was a pain to get in there, but a combination wrench did the trick. I didn't take the top off of the carb, so it was pretty tight all around.
Here are some before and after pictures, I couldn't get them o display right so I put them in an album: 

A little rough, but not too bad - Album on Imgur

The car is going to get a new suspension soon too, I've heard there's a van with the same diameter springs so I might look into those as well. Try out a lifted ride for a bit just for kicks (or for the winter) and eventually cut the springs down closer to stock height for a stiffer ride.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Honda, way cool! Great stuff!

What was the weber part #? Where were you able to source it? What did it run?

What is the small black/red plastic vacuum delay valve connected to on its black end? Is that a "T" coupler (on the black end) going back to the IM?

I don't see the vacuum delay's barometric pressure sensor that it normally connects to. Is the BPS on the car? 

Can you add a pic on your album that shows the pass's front corner area where the VCM AND its AIR FILTER used to sit? Or please attach a picture of the VCM's original air filter? The air filter might have been next to the blue starter relay in the front pass's corner. Or perhaps under air housing. 

Was that air filter a small cylindrical black plastic filter with 2 (small diameter) ports on it (possibly with one plugged off)? Or was it a metal round-shaped gold-ish colored can with 2 5/16" ports on it?

Are there now 2 PCV valves on the car? The original on the firewall-side of the IM (fed by the top right of the VC) and the new shiney one (on the top left of the VC)? Is the shiney one a PCV valve or just a (PCV) air filter?

On the base of the carb, not quite following you. Was there a mixture heater on the bottom of the (original) carb? And, did it stay on with the new carb? I don't see wires to it? Did the new carb have a mixture heater?

What did you have to do ECU-wise? Did the new weber's electrical wire connectors "just plug in" to the original car's harness?

Anything special you have to do to get the throttle cable connected to new carb? Or was it just different bending and basic adjustment with the same lock nuts?

I see the AIV solenoid has been plugged and you have the AIV pipe looped back.

As you keep restoring the car, keep us posted ... and pics. Love it!


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## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

The part number is K602 / K657 according to the listing. I got it from Ebay, it was just under $300.

Weber 32 36 DGV Manual Choke Conversion Kit Fits Datsun 510 610 620 Pickup | eBay

The red/black VDV you mentioned is for the vacuum advance and does indeed have a T coupler after the black end. That splits the connection between the carb vacuum port and the thermal vacuum valve. It's set up properly according to the service manual, I tried removing it and got some backfiring when I got on the gas.

I pulled a lot out of the engine bay while removing the old carb. I think this is the BPS, the manual calls it an altitude compensator and all three lines went to the carb.

http://imgur.com/VoklETn

It sat on the front passenger side corner of the engine bay, right on top of the wheelwell where the VCM and its air filter *should* have been according to your description, but the manual doesn't show anything like that for my year of car. Flipping through the service manual does show it on the 1984 model though, a lot of changes were made after the launch year. Not sure what the next filter you were talking about is with the two small diameter ports. The only thing I can think of that's even close is the vacuum switching valve, it has a port for the auto trans that's factory capped on my manual version and the other goes to the line for the EGR valve. That may be what you were referring to.

As far as the PCV system goes, the car has two tubes. The one on the left of the valve cover should go into the air filter. I pulled it off the stock one and put a breather filter on it. The second one on the right side of the cover loops back around to the intake manifold. I pulled the line off of the manifold side and capped the port. I also capped the EGR line and stuffed the vacuum hose over it so it would look correct when I take it in for emissions. The less half-burnt crud going back into my engine, the better. I'm not too concerned about leftover vapors fouling my oil, I've done this on all my Shadow and Magna bikes (username make sense now?), my old GMC truck, and all of my jeeps that I've gone through. Plus, I'm running Honda motorcycle oil which recommends changing every 30 days anyways. It's just what I had around the house, but the motor seems to like it.

My mixture heater is still there, I needed an extra spacer when installing the carb. I don't like the idea of HEATING your intake. I've heard about intake heaters and laughed when I saw someone pulling a coolant heated manifold off an old Jeep. I'm more of a cold air intake kind of guy, these intake heaters sound all kinds of wrong to me. I disconnected the power from my intake heater and thought of dremeling it out to match the bore of the Weber spacers, but left it in there for the cold winter days that are coming.

The car was carbureted from the start, I think there was a computer of some sort though. There was a big round electrical connector for the Hitachi carb, I'm sure that's what it goes to. The weber has no electrical connections, so that cord is just dangling now, the car doesn't seem to care and it doesn't even look like I HAVE a check engine light. The throttle cable was simple, just had to sandwich it between two washers and tighten down a nut. There was a spot to stick the cable through in the bolt for the throttle hookup, but it was too small for the fat cable on the car.

Last, but not least, I don't know where or what the AIV solenoid is, the air induction pipes run straight from the manifold to the loop I made. I'm familiar with the lines though, there was a cracked reed valve in the stock filter can and exhaust was pumping into my intake making the car run like garbage. Looping it fixed that problem real quick. 

Here are some more pictures of the new setup, you can see what I've done a little better:

http://imgur.com/a/S2SZd

The car runs like a raped ape now. Still far from the fastest thing I've driven, but at least it's not the SLOWEST car I've been in anymore and the engine has a nice note to it.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Honda, [and HAD deduced the rest of your username : - ) ] ... 

Great close-up views of the new carb configuration! Love those pics! Love the work!

Didn't realize Datsun originally had plastic AB valves. Interesting.

Neat seeing the BPT valve upstream of the EGR valve also.

I see the carbon canister is a double-valve (on top), like they had on the E16S. There is a small circular air filter on the bottom INSIDE of the canister, that gets dirty. Air enters it from the driver's wheel well, through a plastic tube (and hose, of course). On our E16S, there is a black plastic cap (on the bottom) that is SEALED on and has to be carefully removed (so as not to break), providing easy access to the (yellow) filter.

I spotted the connector for the mixture heater (on the back there). Got it now.

Was the black side of the VDV on the IM vacuum PULL side before you did the new carb? I see the thin red side goes to the distributor vacuum advance. Reason for the question is: on our E16S, the VDV goes in between the IM and the altitude BPS. Over the years, on several E16Ss, have seen the VDV on Nissans both ways: larger black side on IM PULL side and sometimes thin red side on IM PULL side.

Maybe I was mistaken on the AIV solenoid. That's where it sits on our E16S. Guess the one in your pic was the combined EGR/carbon canister solenoid.

Know what you mean about carbon'd reed valve in the air cleaner.

Interesting on the top right VC blow-by capped at the IM now. I don't see a PCV valve (in the IM port), per se. Hmm, maybe there never was one?? 

Neat seeing just the 1 TVV. Ours has 2, side-by-side there.

Thanks for the info (link) on the weber.

Dang, wish I could work on it with ya. Looks like continuing satisfaction as it keeps getting brought back.

Incidentally, saw a beautiful '82 240Z at a VA car show today. You'd have appreciated it.


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## Hondadavidson (Sep 4, 2016)

I tried swapping the VDV around when I was troubleshooting, but putting the red side towards the carb and vacuum made the car backfire every time I hit the gas. I've seen the VDV's in all kinds of places in the service manual, it covers both the Pulsar & Sentra from 1982-1996 so there's a lot of information. Lots of models had multiple VDVs for various reasons through the years.
I also ended up attaching the carbon can dist vac port to my EGR port, the distributor didn't seem to like having it hooked up to the same vacuum rail after changing the carb out. I don't use the EGR because it hits the cars power right where it hurts, but I've nothing against a carbon can since it doesn't affect performance.

I had also gotten a new muffler since my old one had holes rusted through it in various places and sounded like it was full of crap when I shook it. Also, the day after I fixed the firing order the cat converter got red hot and the console started smoking. This was an isolated incident and the car ran a lot better afterwards. After cutting the muffler off, I cut it open to find it full of bits and pieces of catalytic converter. Surprise! I put a Thrush glasspack on in its place (at only $23, they've become my favorite) and tweaked the carb to compensate for the change. It sounds a lot better now, not too loud or blatty like a resonator would have done. Now the exhaust note is balanced with the engine, it even makes satisfying spits and pops when I engine brake. Next big repair is going to be a suspension overhaul, I think it's all original and it's quite bad.

It's definitely quite satisfying with how it's coming along, the car has a lot of character too.

Another problem I have is my headlights. They'll pop up, but I have to wind them back down. I replaced the entire switch on the steering column, but that didn't fix it (fixed a lot of other things though). The manuals aren't very clear on the wiring for the headlight motor operation either. I've noticed a switch to the left of my dash with an up/down arrow in front of what looks like a light, but it does nothing. I'll try to replace that first, but if it doesn't help I'll be lost and maybe wire up some fog lights in the middle to give it a Lancia Stratos look. 

Nissanpartsdeal.com carries a lot of NOS parts, I bought new hood louvers from them and I wouldn't be able to find a lot of the parts I need elsewhere. They seem to have most of the important stuff available too, even a new dash pad to replace my worn out, suncracked one, OEM radio units, body parts...the whole nine yards. Figured I'd throw it out there, I stumbled upon the site one day while searching a part number and it looks like a gold mine for restoring almost any Nissan.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Again, great info. Vicarious satisfaction. Enjoyment.

Never fully understood what the VDVs did. There is (small) hole straight through them (from the red port to the black port). I even remember disconnecting the altitude BPS entirely (so its VDV would have had no effect as seen by the ECU), and didn't notice any difference. But, then again, was driving at 75-100' above sea level. 

Interesting on the "attaching the carbon can dist vac port to my EGR port." So, the BPT is now disconnected. Always wondered how significant and when exactly - how often - it controlled (offset) the EGR valve.

Yes, like that web site. They are great for finding things. But, just thought they were another dealership, but more forward thinking. The places around here would never "invest" in a site like that. Too constrained in cost control thought for the owners.

There are several parts I really want to obtain but have struck out. Queried that web site again. But, I think I did previously. We'll see what they say today.

You won't have an emissions-qualifying issue with the cat out now?

Hey, any time you want to post here on your work, there will be at least a couple of us who will thoroughly enjoy reading/seeing/following along.

Oh, and the sweet 240Z that was restored was a '72. Not '82.


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