# P0335 replaced sensor doesn't run



## Stolenheartdealer (Sep 7, 2020)

2.5 2005 altima 200k miles, previous owner said he's had it in a shop, they said to replace the sensor which he did, it didn't fix it and I towed the car to get it. After getting it and some time passes, he says it "threw a rod" more on that later. I replaced the sensor again and checked everything the Nissan service manual says to, power, ground and signal. Sensor is good and I can see the wheel on the crank but to be honest I haven't watched it while rotating the crank a whole rotation. I clipped it all the way into the plug and it's fully seated in the engine. The car cranks but doesn't usually start, I can clear the code and it will come back after a couple cranks. It DID start one afternoon after checking a new sensor but it idled rough and did not respond to the input, I was able to put it into reverse and the car moved under power, I did not have space to go forward and it did not respond to throttle. After this one afternoon I never got it to start another time. Since then I've checked compression, 130psi 145psi 160psi and 165psi looking at the engine from left (passenger) to right. So I don't know how an engine that has compression throws a rod... I've taken the plugs and coilpacks out, spark on all cylinders, I've pulled the rail and have a uniform spray on all injectors.

I don't get it, I'm fixing this thing for a friend who is excited to see someone (me) swap an engine but I'm really really hesitant because I don't see a problem from the engine that would cause this not to run at LEAST run poorly. I haven't checked fuel quality but I've seen throttle body adaptions cause hard to start and rough idle scenarios on Audi/VW and they don't throw a code to tell you they need it. I'm not certain the CPS is the culprit but I'm also even less certain the engine is a problem. I think this could be an electrical problem I just can't see with my inexperience with nissan and having only a basic OBD scanner which I have using the basic features of my VCDS volkswagen computer scanner.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable OBD-II scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com. Post the *actual codes* here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: Owner's Manuals. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.

The immobilizer system may be preventing a startup.

At this point you'll have to determine if there's a fuel delivery, ignition, or a mechanical problem:

* Testing fuel delivery:
An easy way to test the fuel delivery is to remove the MAF from the throttle valve body. Now spray starting fluid into the throttle body while trying to start the engine. If it starts up for a few seconds and then dies, then there's a problem with the fuel injection system.

The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector; the probe kit can be purchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com. If one or more injectors are not firing, the problem could be bad timing sensors, a bad ECU or missing 12V.

Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*; wait for about 15 seconds, then turn the ignition key to the OFF position. The fuel pressure reading should be around 51 psi which would be a static reading. If the reading is very low or zero, the fuel pump may have failed or the fuel pressure regulator is defective.

* Testing ignition:
Pull several coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine. If no spark, the coil pack could be bad, missing 12V, or a bad ECU.

* The cam timing may be incorrect:
Check the chain guide to see if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.


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## Stolenheartdealer (Sep 7, 2020)

No offense but, is this an automated response or copy paste or something? The title of the post is an error code and I go over in detail checking fuel, spark, talking about going through the Nissan service manual following it's advice for troubleshooting this exact code with no change in result. Security isn't an issue as it's idled once and there are no flashing lights on the dash indicating an issue with the key as every gm/audi/vw I've ever worked on has...

All that aside I'm looking at checking the head gasket, there's water or coolant in the oil. Timing appears fine, no broken guides. I'll have to set timing again once I remove the head to check the gasket.

What does a bad key read look like on a Nissan? I didn't have throttle response but I was able to idle the car and the car did move under it's own power. If this is what an immobilizer looks like on a Nissan it would seem fairly ineffective to me that it doesn't cut fuel or spark and instead limits acceleration... but like I say, I'm a Nissan Noob here.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Stolenheartdealer said:


> No offense but, is this an automated response or copy paste or something? The title of the post is an error code and I go over in detail checking fuel, spark, talking about going through the Nissan service manual following it's advice for troubleshooting this exact code with no change in result. Security isn't an issue as it's idled once and there are no flashing lights on the dash indicating an issue with the key as every gm/audi/vw I've ever worked on has...
> 
> All that aside I'm looking at checking the head gasket, there's water or coolant in the oil. Timing appears fine, no broken guides. I'll have to set timing again once I remove the head to check the gasket.
> 
> What does a bad key read look like on a Nissan? I didn't have throttle response but I was able to idle the car and the car did move under it's own power. If this is what an immobilizer looks like on a Nissan it would seem fairly ineffective to me that it doesn't cut fuel or spark and instead limits acceleration... but like I say, I'm a Nissan Noob here.


No I'm not offended. Over, let's say a year, we get hundreds of posts similar to yours. I joined NissanForms.com in 2004 and have replied over 7,000 times during those years to try to help members with their problems. We try to do the best we can to help someone considering there are many Nissan models, many year spans, and many vehicle options; sometime you hit the nail on the head and sometime you don't in reaching a solution. I decided long time ago to "can" certain diagnostic procedures instead of typing test procedures *everytime* to answer to someone's problem. So my reply to you is not an "AI"; my apologies for even mentioning the immobilizer system.

The P0553 code in your title relates to a problem with the power steering pressure sensor not to your engine problem. The compression readings you got show one cylinder being very low; you might consider rerunning the compression test again by adding a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder and spin the engine several revolutions before the test.

A common problem with random engine shutdowns or unable to start the engine is a marginal camshaft position sensor or a marginal crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. You can take your vehicle to a dealer/repair shop and they'll tell you there is nothing wrong after they go through with diagnostic tests because at that time the vehicle was running OK. You could end up spending $200 or much more depending on how much time/parts are used.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.


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## Stolenheartdealer (Sep 7, 2020)

Thanks and my apologies, the error code was p0335, I should know better than to trust my memory.

I've updated the title.

I'll try replacing both sensors, this was just the advice I was looking for. I've looked around before posting but all I ever found was people who got this code, replaced the CPS and their issue was resolved.


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## Plogo (Nov 13, 2011)

rogoman said:


> One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable OBD-II scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com. Post the *actual codes* here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: Owner's Manuals. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.
> 
> The immobilizer system may be preventing a startup.
> 
> ...


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## Plogo (Nov 13, 2011)

Might I also suggest a check of the ignition leads? Are they in the correct sequence?


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## Stolenheartdealer (Sep 7, 2020)

Maybe something I'll do when the gasket and sensors are replaced. Is this somehow common? How does a thing like that happen!? How do I even check? I guess trace the signal wire to it's respective ECU output?


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