# 2017 Murano electrical problem



## Joncleve (11 mo ago)

Hi, I have a 2017 Murano that has an electrical issue with the power windows, locks and windows. It started intermittently but now they don't work at all with the interior switches. The locks still work from the FOB and auto lock settings, but no windows or seat power, on both the driver and passenger side. My local dealership wants $159.95 an hour to diagnose.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks 

Jon


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Those three systems all get power from the BCM through a 40A fusible link "L" in the under-hood fusebox. If the link is good then you have either a wiring issue or a problem inside the BCM.


----------



## Joncleve (11 mo ago)

Great information. How do I check the fusible link?

Thanks


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

There's no good way to check them electrically without pulling them out, but they have clear plastic windows to inspect visually. Here's the layout:


----------



## Joncleve (11 mo ago)

Thank you very much for all the information.

Jon


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. Post back and let us know how it goes.


----------



## Joncleve (11 mo ago)

Well I found the fusible link in the fusebox, all three links were intact. I removed it to check for corrosion, debris etc. Nothing found so I put it back everything started working. I drove it for a bit and then shut it off. I started up again in a few hours, not working again. I popped it out then right back in, everything working. I can only assume that maybe it's a cold joint, or temp sensitive? I drove over to the local Nissan dealership and bought a new one figuring I wouldn't be worse off. Working so far but scratching my head.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The BCM is up behind the dash cluster and a little hard to get at, but it has a 30A solid-state circuit breaker built in for the windows, locks and seats. It sounds like that's what's misbehaving; when you yank the fusible link you're removing the load from it and allowing it to reset. When PTC silicon breakers go bad they do start to carry less than their rated current before blowing, but that's with a caveat that they rarely go bad. I'd say it's more likely you have a short in the driver's seat or driver's door wiring or a motor or actuator that's drawing way too much current, possibly from being jammed. Is there some switch you use each time the problem occurs? If not I'd look for a wiring issue, either under the driver's seat or in the umbilical for the driver's door. You should also check your driver's side carpet to see if anything is wet, a water leak at the left corner of the firewall will dump water on the big SMJ connector that carries power from the Main Harness to the Body Harness.


----------

