# New to the Forum HB Owner



## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I picked up my '90 HB Reg 4-cyl 5-spd with 53k miles in March while selling cars here in Plattsburgh, NY. I bought it for fuel economy (29 on the highway) and hell, it was $600. There is relatively few things that can go wrong with it. No A/C, no Airbags, no Auto-tranny, no ABS, no Power Steering. Here is what I do have to work on, in order of priority:

1a. Flush Coolant. It looks like diarrhea in there. It is probably the original stuff. Driving up the 5 miles straight of mountains to get to my mother-in-laws makes the temp gauge go over half-way when it is normall at 1/4th.
1b. Brakes need to be replaced, like yesterday.
2. E-brake cable has slack so the light stays on after releasing it.
3. Replace the particle board aftermarket radio mount with the plastic kit. As this truck originially didn't have a radio either.
4. Replace or repair the driver's side door which has a rust through hole the size of a baseball.

I just got a new job as a prison guard and will be driving 400 or so miles per week for training. I want to get all but 3 & 4 done before I leave on the 12th. Additionally, when on the highway, how safe is 70 mph? It seems like that little engine wants nothing to do with that speed. I keep it around 55-60 mph. 

Anyway, hello everyone.


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

While viewing the forum I have noticed something else that isn't necessarily 'normal' http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/145047-hb-knocks-when-first-started.html

This one too: http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/132853-clunk-sharp-turn.html


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

do not flush radiator with tap water as this will oxidize the inside and cause it to clog..

tune ups are the best place to start.

it sounds like you need to replace the thermostat .

the brakes are very easy start with the front first as they wear out 2 or 3 times faster than rear.

the e brake has a spring down under neath the truck by the adjuster .

check for spring and only adjust after brake job..

the rattle on start up is a tel tale sign of the timing chain guides are broke or damaged
replace the timing chain quickly or you chance hurting the engine beyond repair..

at lot of time the clunk is the cross member underneath the engine ..tighten it first

depending on your location a whole door can be bought used for a bout 100.oo dollars


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

What would I accomplish by replacing a thermostat? Being a novice, I, of course first thought the one for heat, not the one you are talking about.

I found a door for $150, the problem is that is is 45 minutes and a $25 ferry ride away.

Thanks for the info! I can always use the help.

:newbie:


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the thermostat change will stop the truck from getting hotter as you go up the hill.
chances are it is old and not opening properly..
it is an easy fix.


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Haynes Manual, Thermostat and Gasket, Front Pads, Timing Chain guides (both loose and tight sides) so far only up to $100. I remember someone mentioning that you need a special tool for the brakes, AutoZone rents those correct?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

there is no special tool for the brakes that i recall.


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I am going to give it all a shot tomorrow morning, bright and early. A friend is helping me, thankfully, and we are using all of his tools . I am still wondering what people have found to be a comfortable cruising speed on the highway with their HB 4-cyl.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i have the z24 engine in my truck so it has a little different power range.,
also i am 66 yo so i always drive 5 miles inder posted limits..

the ka engine has a little more hp than the z trucks and a lighter frame to give it a little more use of the extra power..

70mph is perfectly safe given your truck is sound..

if you do the timing chain ..note that the oil pump timing is a part of the proceedure that alot of guys overlook and not do right.

so do that part twice ..as a practice to get it right..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I only was able to get less than one gallon of antifreeze in after changing the thermostat. I got it hot, and let it cool again still no more room in there. I thought maybe I didn't get it all out initially but the temperature gauge sure said a different story. 

I broke a sway bar in the front, that is what the clunking was. I started to take the right front lug nuts off only to find that all of them are cross threaded after snapping one clean off. I am going to take it to the dealership I work and and see if someone will hook me up fixing the studs/nuts, sway bar and brakes. Also, if they can get more coolant in there.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you mean the stealership..

well if they get to expensive for you pm me ,i have the sway bar.
also lugnuts can be bought at autozone and are relatively ez to get out an back in..

good luck and keep us in formed ..

thanks


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

So after PB Welding the hell out of the nuts for the past 24 hours, I was able to get them off. I got the brakes apart and now I cannot put them back together. I have the pads, shims, and retainer off. I cannot figure out how to get them all back with the retainer on the top and bottom, and the pads in between. The Haynes manual is good if you sort of have a clue. I don't so I am rather frustrated at this point. It looks like I am going to hold tight and hope a buddy of mine can help tomorrow, if not, it looks like it will be going to the shop on Monday, with the driver's side brake missing.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the front or rear brakes??


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Front disc, driver's side is what I am currently working on.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

did you push the cylinder back into the caliper as far it can go ???


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I haven't even got that far, I can't figure out how to put the retainers in around the pads and shims. It seems like they need to be in there first, and then put the pads in.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the chome kinda h pattern peices that go at the top and bottom of the calipers..
are these the things you are taling about.

if so take the other side wheel off and look at those.


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Those are exactly what I am talking about. I guess I need to clarify my use of the word "how". I know where they are supposed to go, I just can't for the life of me get them in there. I can place those, then attempt to put the pads in to no avail, they wont fit. Or if I put the pads in first, there is no chance in hell I'm squeezing those little metal things in there.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

take a wire brush to where they seat and clean off some of the rust and dirt..

they do go in first but sometimes you have to elbow grease them..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I never thought about that. I am in Northern, NY where rust is a factor. Where can I post a picture of this rig for posterity. It will be an hour or so before the wife is back from grocery shopping. Once she's back, I'll get out there and see if I can't manage to get it together. How do I make sure the caliper is all the way in (once I get there).


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i pry it back using a srewdriver before i remove the pads.
but you can use a c clamp if you have one.
if not ..reinstall the caliper with the old pads and use a large flat head screw driver to pry it back to its closed position..

you also need to check and clean the caliper slides ..
these are the part of the caliper that the retaining bolts go thru and have little rubber boots.

they should easily slide back and forth ..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

They still slide rather easily and are well greased up. I accidentally slid the whole piece out and I took great care replacing the boot that was on it.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

waiting to hear (read ) a progress report..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Ha ha! It's AMAZING what a wire brush and a rubber mallet can accomplish. All parts are accounted for, in the right spot. I DID manage to get the caliper boot to come off... repeatedly. I have it back on there however, it now has a slight twist to it, hopefully that doesn't ruin anything. So, one side down, one to go. 

While I was in this side, I was hoping to fix something else. The knocking when I turn and hit a bump or dip, part of the suspension is broken. The Haynes manual says nothing about this particular part. If I can interpret this stuff correctly, it is the vertical piece that holds the stabilizer bar to the lower link.

I am having difficulty getting the part off either, the nut on the bottom is still there, but like the rest of the truck it is rusted round everywhere else. Additionally, the top part is no longer there so I can't grip that.

P.S. Good morning everyone!


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I decided to give the other side a shot and you know what, I can't get the caliper off. I pulled the bottom bolt and I need to pry against something but I don't know what is safe to pry against!


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Okay, I officially am done on this job. I got everything put back together and the passenger side brake is locked up. I am going to see if one of the guys in the shop at the dealership I work at want to fix it for me on the side.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

is it locked up after you put new pads on??

or becoz the slides do not slide .
or becoz the caliper has not been pushed back to it's beginning position..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

After I put new pads on. I pushed the caliper all the way back using the tool you rent at Autozone.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

why do you think the brakes are locked up??


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I think with all of the rust and corrosion, everything doesn't fit as initially intended. It was nearly impossible to get the caliper back on and took another several minutes to get it aligned right. Even then it took several good whacks with the rubber mallet.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

did you test drive it ..some times that will break it free.

and wearing down the pads a little will free up some space..


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

also were the slides working correctly on the passenger side ??


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I drove it roughly 5 miles, it smelled awful. By the end there was complete brake fade on the passenger's side (given the vehicle lurching to the left when I hit the brakes hard).


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the smell will go away shortly.

were the slides working correctly on the passenger side ??


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

If the slide is the part that the caliper slides along, then yes.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

there are 2 slides.the retaining bolt goes thru them ..
they are working correctly??
if so do you think it is the caliper piston that is not working corrrectly??


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

The retaining bolt on the bottom was terrible to get in. Everything was fine prior to me getting in there and messing with it. Just worn brakes as far as I could tell.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

there has to be a reason why the brkes are not functioning properly.

the piston is the part that pushes the inside pad against the disc..

is it pushing out as you apply the brakes??


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you can remove the caliper again and very carefully push the brke pedal once ..
you will see that the caliper piston advances out ..
you must do this very slowly and carefully so you do not pop the piston completely out ..

if you have a c-clamp you can use it to control the piston travel.

you can measure the depth of the piston and then use that number to let the piston advance half way using the c-clamp as a stop or failsafe..

then you can steel wool the sides of the piston walls to clean them of dirt or debreis..

note you must have a stop or fail safe or the piston will pop out. which you do not want 
to happen.


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I am going to give that a shot after work tomorrow. I wouldn't be so willing to give up and pay someone but I am leaving next Sunday for 8 weeks.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if you take it to a shop then they will just sell you a new caliper and try to sell you a new rotor for starters..

if just a new caliper prollie close to 300 us .
but if rotors and calipers for both sides which is what they will try to sell you ..
just about a grand..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I have one of the guys in the shop out back taking a look at it tonight afterhours. I am picking up a second set of pads and a set of rotors just incase he needs them. Totaling $70. The calipers would be around $150 at Autozone for the cheap ones and $250 for the expensive ones. I already looked just in case. Hopefully it will be all right tomorrow. I figure at $75 normal rate for our shop, or $60 per hour at the local shops, let's go with the same tech on his own time at his own rate.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the rotors will prollie be in spec .and your pads a new so they will be fine as well.

if you were going to buy anything it should be a caliper for the passenger side..
and that would be ..just in case.. you could not get the old one working properly..


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

I'd be happy if it wasn't a spent caliper. We'll see tonight hopefully.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

check this out...

1995 NISSAN PARTS TRUCK, good 4 cyl., $600 Genesee Country Automotive, Batavia, NY 716-560-3264


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

Batavia is just a hair over 6 hours away, unfortunately. Montreal, Quebec, Vermont, and New Hampshire are closer to my relative location.

The tech called me last night at 8:30. He swapped the swap bar and freed the caliper. However, my front? ebrake cable is broken and I need to pick that up at some point today. 

This isn't all bad as I've been driving my wifes car which has a/c, it's going to be in the 90's today.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

so ... you are back on the road...?


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

We're running great. One of the slides for the caliper locked up. He took it out lubed it up and make sure it was working. The ebrake cable snapped as he pulled it to put it in the lift. I never use it and it is the original one. I was debating just letting it go until I get the truck inspected again in March but I decided to just order a cable and have the same guy install it. I paid him $45 for labor to the caliper work and installing a front sway bar. 

The ebrake cable is $80, direct from Nissan through the parts department at the shop I used to work at. There was no close junk yards that had anything. The closest yard that had anything possible would cost me $40 just to get there and back.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

so the caliper was not froze??
the slides are kinda of tricky and a lot of guys just overlook them.

it is best to buy new cable ..

park the truck in reverse while you are w/o the e brake.

i always park it in reverse any way ..

it might have been a good test for you .

something to think about b4 you do a timing chain job...


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## alexhenryj (Jul 2, 2008)

As long as I know I have someone to clean up my mess, I'm alright . The timing chain might be fun but I might end up having it flat bedded away. I should make sure my AAA is up to date, ha ha.

I took the truck on a 150 mile jaunt through upstate Vermont while I was test driving random vehicles in Burlington. It did fine going up and down the mountains at highway speed. I think I'll be in good shape to get to Albany and back (165 miles one way). Thanks for all the help.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

if it is rattling when you start the engine and then quits ..
it is time to put on a new t-chain and guides ..
if you keep driving it like that have your money ready to buy a new engine..

which i sell by btw...


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