# Official "common problem" thread



## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

Here is going to be the official list of common problems, these are the ones I know about:

-rear wheel bearings
-blown headgaskets
-5th gear pop-out
-non functioning gas/temp gauge
-Constant need to replace CV boots
-Headlight mounts
-RUST!!!
-Blown pistonrings
-Anything having to do with the Hitachi carb
-random pinging/misfiring/hesitation

Any more???


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## Guest (Dec 13, 2002)

broken muffler
bad piston rings

Luckily mine doesn't have ANY rust. Nice thing about living on the west coast, no damn salt on the roads. We're much more modern, we use chemicals.


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## LittlebittaContact (Oct 12, 2002)

Common Problem: Getting Left at Green Lights


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## 7RIPP3R (Sep 27, 2002)

LittlebittaContact said:


> *Common Problem: Getting Left at Green Lights  *


 LOL true.....


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

LittlebittaContact said:


> *Common Problem: Getting Left at Green Lights  *


 ***** I'll bet Hybrid/DET doesn't have THAT problem!


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Well you've got them covered pretty well, Ricebox. How about worn out driver's door hinge pins and bushings, stock radios are always shot, GA16i timing chains, GA16i front crank seals........hey wait a minute! That's enough. We don't want to make our cars look bad here! 
P.S. Ricebox, tell us about your rear wheel bearings. I have never seen any go bad. Has anyone else?


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## Guest (Dec 14, 2002)

My mother killed her rear wheel bearings in her B11 a long long time ago. But she drove 20 miles with the parking brake on. ;>


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

hahahhah thats bad !! ... radios are a sure shot !!... i used to have the duo cassette and am/fm... but the cassette forget this crap... it was eating them !!.. im now on my 3rd car with the pioneer sys that i got then... never stock again !!...

P.s door bushing !!... 2 cars... 3 door repaired... plus i have 1 driver sider mint door complete in storage (was going on my other one but scrped the car...)

I got the 2 front one replace (one the complete spindle bought used the other one new bearing) last month ... ah there went my extra money again


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## Guest (Dec 14, 2002)

Ok.. Let's see if we can drum up some more solutions to these common problems. The gas/temp gauge. How do you fix that?


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## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

blownb310 said:


> *P.S. Ricebox, tell us about your rear wheel bearings. I have never seen any go bad. Has anyone else? *


Someone else mentioned the rear wheel bearings, and I decided to add it. I had to replace mine but it was because I gave my car an alignment job using a curb while sliding sideways at 25 km/h. 

I had the crappy radio problem too, but it was fixed a month later with a really sweet christmas present from my dad. Pioneer HU, and 4 Kenwood speakers!!! 
 <--- me listening to the tunes!


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## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

UnaClocker said:


> *Ok.. Let's see if we can drum up some more solutions to these common problems. The gas/temp gauge. How do you fix that? *


Do a search. It's been discussed ad naseum


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## dschrier (May 6, 2002)

I've had the cv boots tear 4 times in the 5 years I've owned my 90 b12, but one time was pepboys fault due to putting the wrong size boots on. I have a pinging problem caused by who knows. I even get pinging with 93 octane if it is really hot out. Anyone else have this mysterious pinging problem that has fixed it? I also had my timing chain guard break resulting in my timing chain cutting through my engine. That's all the major problems so far, and that's not too bad for a 13 yr old car.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

> _I have a pinging problem caused by who knows. I even get pinging with 93 octane if it is really hot out. Anyone else have this mysterious pinging problem that has fixed it? [/B]_


_ ***** I have repaired a few GA16i's with that problem. It always went back to the worn/stretched timing chain, which had retarded the cam timing. Ignition timing adjustments will not help if the cam timing is off. But you mentioned that you replaced the timing chain and guides already? Did you replace just the broken guides and the tensioner, or did you reolace all associated components? 
OK, say you had all that replaced, and that's not it. Does your B12 use any oil? If so, how much between 3,000 mile oil changes? Any oil getting into the cobustion chambers will cause detonation too.
Lastly, an inoperative EGR valve will cause pinging as well. Take your pick! _


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## dschrier (May 6, 2002)

Well I have no idea what got fixed when the timing chain fiasco happened. My dad pretty much took care of the repairs on that, and we had a garage do it. I would assume you would check the timing when you replace the chain? I don't really know all the mechanics behind this stuff so I claim ignorance here. After 3000 miles I am only about half way down from full to low on the oil dipstick which is about only half a quart correct? I think that's normal for a car with 150,000 miles, at least my grandfather saw nothing wrong with that. I do have a small leak which drips from the bottom of my distributor, would the oil there cause pinging? I have tried the EGR diagnosis where you push in the diaphram when the car is idling, and if the car chokes and starts to die it means your EGR valve theoretically is in good/fair condition, and my car did choke and almost die when I pushed in the diaphram. I have just used 93 octane in my car for the 4 yrs I have it just so I don't pin, but I have heard this is bad cause it can cause carbon build up in a car that doesn't require high octane fuel. Would a plugged pcv valve cause deposits to build up in the cylinders resulting in pinging? I read something along the lines of this a while back.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

dschrier said:


> *Would a plugged pcv valve cause deposits to build up in the cylinders resulting in pinging? I read something along the lines of this a while back. *


 ***** No, not really. It would cause some serious crancase pressure though, and lots of oil leaks. A 1/2 qt. of oil between oil changed is normal for a car with 150K on it. The EGR valve is functioning if you open it manually, that's good. But does it recieve the vacuum signal to open during driving though? Better let your dad or grandfather check it out. Good luck.


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## dschrier (May 6, 2002)

How would I determine if it recieves the vacuum signal to open during driving though? And what would be the problem if it wasn't getting this signal?


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## rice rocket (soon) (Oct 28, 2002)

for the nonfunctioning temp/ fuel gauge you just need to replace the voltage regulator it's a little silverbox behind the guage cluster with three leads coming off of it a black, blue, and yellow when yoou replace the voltage regulator. just make sure that you don't mess up the speedo cable like i did i never found that little black spring that popped out of the speedo cable.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

dschrier said:


> *How would I determine if it recieves the vacuum signal to open during driving though? And what would be the problem if it wasn't getting this signal? *


 ***** With the car fully warmed up, bring the engine up to about 2,000-2,500 rpms, and hold it there. Then reach under the bottom of the EGR valve to see if it's opening or not. It should be, as it only works during part throttle. Alot of people remove and block off the EGR valve, thinking it hurts performance. It doesn't, because it does not open at WOT. If it's not working, it could be a cracked vacuum hose to it [most probable], or a bad BPT [back pressure transducer], that thing right next to the EGR valve, with the foam rubber sticking out of it.


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## LittlebittaContact (Oct 12, 2002)

my rear bearings made alot of noise a couple times, but it was after me and my friend had the car going like 107 or 109, it was fine at speed, but when we slowed down the whole back of the car was shaking like it was going to fall off, it only did it between 20-50MPH


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## dschrier (May 6, 2002)

My front right bearings went bad so I just had those replaced, $200. The weird thing is is that my car made that howling noise for about a year, but I always thought it was my tires howling being off aligned. The wheel didn't even move up or down or side to side which is what I was told is a sign of a bad bearing.


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

blownb310 said:


> *P.S. Ricebox, tell us about your rear wheel bearings. I have never seen any go bad. Has anyone else? *


Yeha mine are about to fall apart. Everytime a turn all i hear is the grinding/clicking sound from the back (joints are going too). Theyll need to be replaced soon. 
ANyone got tips for replaceing these easily?

-Nick


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## AVERAGE (Aug 9, 2002)

okay guys , give it to me straight ...do balljoints have to be pressed in or do they just bolt up on the b12?(nowhammynowhammynowhammy......)


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

AVERAGE said:


> *okay guys , give it to me straight ...do balljoints have to be pressed in or do they just bolt up on the b12*


 ***** B11, bolt-in. B12, press-in. The only replacement ball joints you will find for the B12's are aftmkt. Nissan will only sell you the whole lower control arm. BTW, if your front lower control arm bushings are worn out too, you might as well buy the Nissan control arms, because they come with new ball joints and bushings already installed.  Most B12's with over [about] 150,000 miles have front lower arm bushings that are worn out. I know, because all of the B12's I've had, needed them. Symtoms are that the car darts left or right, when jumping on or off the gas. The car will also pitch and wallow, on long curved highway on/off ramps. It will also disallow the car from holding correct alignment settings, and tire wear will be terrible.


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## dschrier (May 6, 2002)

My car likes to "wander" about and I have 150,000 miles exactly. I doubt they have ever been replaced. It seems to be worse when using the breaks, but my breaks and rotors are new so I doubt it is warped rotors.


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

blownb310 said:


> Symtoms are that the car darts left or right, when jumping on or off the gas. The car will also pitch and wallow, on long curved highway on/off ramps. It will also disallow the car from holding correct alignment settings, and tire wear will be terrible. [/B]


sounds like those ill need to replace those too..  

-Nick


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## nickthegenius (May 29, 2002)

So far with my car:

- blower motor
- ball joints
- universal joint that is right before the steering box

Those have been replaced. Next on the list is to replace the weak rear springs on my car.

Nick


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## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

nickthegenius said:


> *So far with my car:
> 
> - blower motor
> - ball joints
> ...


None of those are common problems though. Come back when your gas gauge doesn't work, or your headlight adjustments break


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

RiceBox said:


> *None of those are common problems though. Come back when your gas gauge doesn't work, or your headlight adjustments break  *


i dunno about that... at one point in time or another ive had all of those things fixed...

-Nick


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## Guest (Dec 24, 2002)

While we are discussing common problems. The 5th gear problem. What's the fix? My arm gets real tired on the commute to work every day. ;> If it's a simple fix maybe I can do it myself. If not, I can at least plan ahead for it.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

*Fixing 5th gear popout*



UnaClocker said:


> *While we are discussing common problems. The 5th gear problem. What's the fix? My arm gets real tired on the commute to work every day. ;> If it's a simple fix maybe I can do it myself. If not, I can at least plan ahead for it.  *


 ***** I posted a pretty complete report on how to repair those somewhere. Believe it or not, I just spent over an hour searching for it. Couldn't remember if it was on Nissanforums, b15sentra.net, or SML [Sentra Mailing list]. Tried them all, found nothing. Drats! OK, here it is again: You need to replace 5th input shaft gear and coupling sleeve. Granted, it will be expensive to have done, or to do it with new parts. So here's the "cheapskate" way around it. First off, you DON'T need to remove the trans. I drain the trans, take out the driver's side axle, trans mount, and remove the trans side cover. I remove the 5th gear shift fork [the outermost one]. You simply remove the snap ring, that retains the 5th input gear, and then pull off [literally by hand] the said 5th input shaft gear and coupling sleeve. These are the two parts that need replacing. Now, you can go to the junkyard, and remove the very same parts [the same way], and replace them in your trans. That's it. As long as the trans you got the parts from was good [no popout], then you will have fixed your car cheaply. I have actually gone to junkyards, and have seen B12's with the side cover off of the trans, and 5th gear missing!   So, I am not the only one who knows about this.


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## Guest (Dec 24, 2002)

And I suppose the B11 transmission I have under my computer desk doesn't have compatible gears? heh, damn my luck.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

UnaClocker said:


> *And I suppose the B11 transmission I have under my computer desk doesn't have compatible gears? heh, damn my luck.  *


 ***** Nope, they won't work. Funny though, B11 trans' don't pop out of 5th. Never did.


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

blownb310 said:


> "Funny though, B11 trans' don't pop out of 5th. Never did.  [/B]


Well, I've got one that started popping every once in a while at around 120k. Now I drive in 5th with one hand on the wheel, the other on the shifter. somehow I manage to juggle a coffee mug and a cigarette as well during rush hour traffic.

My new center console is about 70% done  Sweet Jesus I'm going to have a functional cup holder soon.

Snagged a high-mount brake light from an '87 pulsar yesterday. It's already installed....I like it


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

Myetball said:


> *
> I'm going to have a functional cup holder soon.
> *


POST A WRITE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Nick


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

Well, it all started with my frustration over the lack of adequate aftermarket cupholders. None of them really worked and the aftermarket consoles were crap as well. I have to jam my stainless steel coffee mug so far up in my crotch to keep it from spilling that I walk funny when I get to work.

Anyway, one day I got the idea to make a console with a cup holder. I acquired an in-dash pop out cup holder from a junkyard, don't remember what kind of car it came from. To make the console, I started with cardboard and a razor. After much trial and error, I had fashioned just the right shapes for the two sides of the console so they would fit under the dash. I laid these out on some 1/4" plywood, traced and cut. Then fit them in the car and marked where I would mount cross braces so they would meet the hump in the middle. I used 1x2x7 stock, 8ft sections cost .98 at home depot, for the cross braces. I also marked where the ashtray would slide out so I didn't cause any interferance there.

The actual cup holder is mounted between two pieces of 1x2 on each side. I drilled two holes in each of the lower mounts and installed screws from the bottom. When the screws are tightened, the cup holder is held securely in place.

For the face, I traced out the cup holder face and used a jigsaw to cut it out. Some sanding and filing was needed but it it now a nice fit. The face is actually angled. The top section with the cup holder is only 3 inches high and almost vertical, the lower section is over 8 inches high and has about a 10 degree angle.

I picked up some nice black carpet at the junkyard and used that to cover the sides. I also used a portion of a computer power supply, the rear section that is drilled for a vent, to mount next to the gas pedal as a kick plate. It's an older ps so its heavy guage and chromed. For the face plates, I scavanged the black leather off an old portfolio I had laying around. So now I have a spring loaded pop-out cup holder and don't have to burn my nuts in the morning anymore. There is plenty of room on the console to mount other stuff like toggle switches or guages. That will all come later.

I also took out the center plastic doohicky that goes around the shift lever and made a new one. It is flush with the console, covered in black carpet, and is a little taller so my shift lever doesn't look like it's 8 feet long anymore.

I'm working on a web page and will get picks up when I can....so much time, so little to do....wait, stop, reverse that.....


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## Guest (Dec 29, 2002)

welp the only problem i have is a MAJOR oil leak or burning oil or something.... if i drive my car everyday i go through at least a quart a week.... my car has 184k and other than that it runs great, ice cold a/c... etc... and no problems with cv's, i even have hydraulics and have no problems with cv's


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

Myetball said:


> *I'm working on a web page and will get picks up when I can....so much time, so little to do....wait, stop, reverse that..... *


sounds like quite the project. Keep us updated and lets see those pics!  

-Nick


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## Guest (Feb 17, 2003)

I found a very handy and easy way to put in two cup holders and make it look fairly stock for those interested.
Go to Wal-mart, K-mart or even Target and look for the "spillmaster" two cup holder....this has adjustable positions for each holder so it holds a variety of cup and mug sizes and measures 4" wide by 11" long and does not have cassette or cd storage but it does have a small pocket in the center for a pack of tissues or two golf balls....?!!
In the B12 series I have a square hole between the seats that will hold one can of soda....useless.
What I did was use the spillmaster and I positioned it length wise between the seats where the forward facing cup position would not interfere with the hand brake usage, then marked on the side of the spillmaster where the front and rear of the square hole in the console sat under it.
You will then use some scrap pieces of 3/4" plywood and cut three square blocks at 2 1/2 by 2 1/2, one at 3 3/8" by 2 3/4" and finally one at 2 3/4" by 4 1/8" cutting a 45 degree angle in the 2 3/4" width so that it's 4 1/8" on top and 3 3/8" on bottom, which matches with the fourth piece you cut.
This angle will match up with the angle on the square hole in the console.
Position these blocks from smallest to biggest on top of each other, with the three small blocks positioned in the middle of the fourth block (medium size one) and the largest on top with it's 3 3/8" side facing down to match the top side of the fourth board.
Then clamp them, drill two pilot holes at 1/8 in dia. through the stack, one on the right, one on the left and screw a #10 2" long wood screw into each hole.
Switch sides to the top and drill two more holes to fasten the top blocks into the stack but drill the holes one in front and one in back making sure the holes are positioned far enough back to pass into the other stack of three and not just pass through the top blocks outer edge by accident.
Once you have built your stack fasten the cupholder onto the stack of blocks by drilling two small pilot holes and using one inch long #10 panhead screws for maximum flange width and holding power. The other screws should be countersinking as to fit flush with the top and bottom of the blocks.
Then fasten the cupholder to the block stack through the two provided holes in the middle pocket with the one inch screws.
And Voila' you now have a nice, overall stock looking cupholder that holds two cups of varying sizes and they will not spill on hard braking or cornering.
P.S. big ass cups in the front position do have a little tendency to get in the way O' the shifting arm, so keep 'em to the back holder position.
This really isn't as much work as it sounds and it's worth it...you can even get them in grey to match!!


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

sentrastud said:


> *sounds like quite the project. Keep us updated and lets see those pics!  QUOTE]
> 
> Well, a blown head gasket put the console completion on hold. Had to have some welding done on head. Also fixed leaking oil pan and bad water pump. Should have it all back together and on the road tommorow. Would have been done tonight but the exhaust manifold gasket in the head set was the wrong one, pick up right one (hopefully) in the morning. Console completion to follow.*


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

yeah, enigne stuff put my interior projects on hold. Ive got to find the source of this damn diesel sound...

-Nick


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

sentrastud said:


> *yeah, enigne stuff put my interior projects on hold. Ive got to find the source of this damn diesel sound...
> 
> -Nick *


Sounds like detenation. Check for bad ignoition timing, bad plugs of wires. If that doesn't work, run premium gas. Whenever i ran the cheap shit, it sounded like I had a CD17 deisel motor Heres another problem B12 owners can relate to, being hit by SUV's or old farts. As for the CV'c, I had a problem with them, new set every year. Then again taking hard corners didn't help much either


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## sentrastud (May 3, 2002)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> *Sounds like detenation. Check for bad ignoition timing, bad plugs of wires. If that doesn't work, run premium gas. Whenever i ran the cheap shit, it sounded like I had a CD17 deisel motor Heres another problem B12 owners can relate to, being hit by SUV's or old farts. As for the CV'c, I had a problem with them, new set every year. Then again taking hard corners didn't help much either *


detonation is what i was thinkin too. I was listening to it idle today and Im thinking theres a missfire in the works too. (oh joy). Looks my spring overhaul will have to get fastracked a bit. 
Theres not a chance I could run premium gas. The cheap stuff hit 76.9/L with premium being 86.9/L. 
Ill check the ECU this weekend or whenever I get the chance. The little cover is stuck on and a screw is stripped so its gonna be fun to get at that...  

-Nick


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

can you convert that into $/gal. Right now premium here is about $1.80/gal, not too bad, considering this past summer I was paying $2.15/gal. I can't seem to figure out why it is so high here in Ohio, I guess not too many people buy premium. I occasionally slurged an payed $4.50/gal for 110octane race gas. Man was that some good shit That's how I passes a vehical inspection with no exhaust system.


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