# I've Searched, I need QUICK help on CV axle removal on a ga16i



## lbrowne (Sep 29, 2004)

EDIT: car is a 91 Nissan Sentra with a ga16i auto tranny. I believe this same car was sold in the US until 89.

I'm getting the replacement cv axle tomorrow at NAPA.

Replacing passenger side. Tire is off, axle nut is off, where to go next. I need a quick step by step so I can finish this tonight.

Let go the tie rod end? or let go the ball joint? no paragraphs please...just quick step by steps 

Thanks!!

lbrowne


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## Nismo1997 (Dec 26, 2003)

lbrowne said:


> EDIT: car is a 91 Nissan Sentra with a ga16i auto tranny. I believe this same car was sold in the US until 89.
> 
> I'm getting the replacement cv axle tomorrow at NAPA.
> 
> ...


Take the nut off the lower ball joint


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## lbrowne (Sep 29, 2004)

and? i can't get it to pop down

I've tried prying it down, smacking the knuckle (not the ball joint itself)

I left the nut just on top of the ball joint, so when it popped it won't fall out all the way, then place a jack underneath completely depressed so i can easily jack it back up...

how do i get that ball joint to pop down?


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## lbrowne (Sep 29, 2004)

i give up on tryin to remove this f'n thing.

i had a draw bar wedged between the base of the cv axle and the lower strut, pryed it up with a hydraulic jack...and the damn thing wouldn't pop out.


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## MyClunkyAss12er (May 16, 2003)

lbrowne said:


> i give up on tryin to remove this f'n thing.
> 
> i had a draw bar wedged between the base of the cv axle and the lower strut, pryed it up with a hydraulic jack...and the damn thing wouldn't pop out.


u dont have to sepertate the lower ball joint and knuckle at all to get the cv joint out. just unbolt the knuckle from the shock then pull it bak while shifting the cv joint ot an angle. with alittle tugging and fiddleing it will pop out. use same technique for replacement.


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

i use the suspension bolt/knuckle technique too ... very easy


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## lbrowne (Sep 29, 2004)

thanks guys...first thing tomorrow 

so unbolt those 2 bottom bolts of the shock? (its one above the other...)


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

yep


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

yea those axels pop right out, and just to let ya know the ball joint is a tapered fit u have to heat it with a torch and tap it just right with a ball peen hammer and it will drop right out or use a thissle fork and mes up the ball joint, just so ya know when u have to change your ball joints


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## dmkim01 (Aug 31, 2005)

*I still can't even loosen the axle nut*

I bought a breaker bar but the axle nut wont budge. I turn it counter- clock wise right? I jam the lug nut bolts with a pipe, but the pipe and the lug nut bolts just start bending. When I pull the breaker bar, the front hubs also just start steering to one side. How do people remove this nut without a air tool?

Should the steering wheel be locked? Will that help or damage the mechanism? What are you guys using to jam the lug nut bolts from turning? Didn't your lug nut bolts bend? Even if it does, just bend them back? 

I loved this car. I would love to fix it myself. Or else, I will have to junk it. It doesn't make finalcial sense to take it to the dealer. ($500)

Thanks.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

on my 90 I placed a large (3' long) screwdriver/prybar between 2 studs and the ground ( angled towards the front of the car to loosen) and used a socket on a breaker bar to take the nut off, mechanic had just tightened the nut with an impact gun and the nut still came right off. If the studs bend DON'T bend them back replace them, where are you located by the way?


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## 4pt9fiero (Jul 5, 2005)

Put the wheel back on and let it back down on the ground, set the brake, put it in gear and then try to remove the nut. Yes you turn it counter clockwise. I have a 24" breaker bar and have been successful with this method many times in the past.

After you get it loose, then jack it back up, remove the tire, then undo the outer tie rod end. Many people say to remove the bolts from the strut to remove the axle - be ready to get a new alignment if you do that. My preference is to either split the ball joint - if you do it like that you shouldn't need an alignment. If you can't get the ball joint loose undo the control arm - only 3 bolts and your alignment shouldn't be too bad when you put it back together.

When you put the new axle in make sure you are careful putting it in the tranny - it is relative easy to mess up the axle seal.

Jeff


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

my mechanic seperated the knuckel at the lower ball joint ( was replacing them anyway), with the balljoint seperated he had plenty of room to get the axle out


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## greenbean699 (Jan 18, 2004)

Being that hes already bent the lug bolts, then he should just go ahead and take the whole wheel cylinder off and then he will have to have it pressed apart to change the lug bolts. 
Its a pita just to change the lug bolts. Its the only design i dont like on these cars.
As for the axle nuts goes..i got a electric impact gun and it does a great job.


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## mwolvin (May 21, 2004)

WOW! I've never had that kind of trouble with an axle nut. I've always used a 1/2" ratchet after making sure that either the cotter pin was removed or the sleeve of the nut was straightened (whichever securing style was used.) Oh yea-- I've got a 2 foot 1/2" extension that I use to brace the wheel studs. Just make sure it's flat against the rotor so it won't bend your studs. A jack handle works well too. . .


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## Geofiveo (Jun 14, 2006)

*Use the Brakes!*

My manual says that you should use the brakes to hold the rotor and hub in place to brake torque on the nut.


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