# 2014 Versa S engine change



## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Well, after 140k I am testing at

Cyl 1: 130 lbs compression
Cyl 2: 140 lbs compression
Cyl 3: 30 lbs compression
Cyl 4: 30 lbs compression

I am going to do a wet test and leak down because I am curious, but I just scored a 31k mile motor on ebay for $150. Its only a few hours away so going to pick it up next week. 

I had some problems with both the low end and top end when I bought the car. Nissan replaced the motor twice. At 50k miles the clutch went out. I put a stage 1 action clutch in and it's going strong. 

I am honestly going to check the clutch and see if I need one. Its $415 for the kit and I honestly doubt it has much wear. I kind of want the bragging rights of doing a complete swap for $150 plus some diesel and time to go get it. Hopefully it comes with the fixins and I will probably use the accessories it comes with, strip my motor down and throw them all in a box for safekeeping. Strip the block down to see what happened, because I am curious. And scrap the head and block for the aluminum. 

Is there a thread on here for a swap? I think I am going out the top and leaving the tranny in. I may ask a favor to use a shop/lift and drop the subframe. But I bet I can swap this in a day or two at home. 

I will try and shoot some pictures and post. Not much info out there on this. 

Open to all suggestions.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Do you think this is a blown head gasket ?
I am suspicious because 3 and 4 are so low and simular! 
good luck with your swap.
Since you already put a clutch in, just separate the engins and trans, disconnect the engine and auxiliaries and lift out.
I always took head off to reduce weight and size, but that was in simpler times.
good luck.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Thank you for the tips!
I second guessed my decision and panicked thinking that too. I wet tested it and the compression shot up, so I’m thinking it’s rings. But my buddy said for $150 it’s less than the machine work to have the head done. Maybe one I pick the motor up I should just pull my head before taking it all the way out. Then again, I have 140k miles and a fresh motor and it’s an easy change. What would anyone else do? Feel free to jump in. Ha.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

well I agree with your buddy, my prices are undoubtedly out of date but that engine is a bargain. If rings are gone you will need new pistons. The ring groove tolerance will be out.
Are you burning oil?
If compression rings are shot blow-by will cause oil consumption by blowing oil out the PVC valve and burning it.
So Yes buy the engine. I still feel its possible its the head gasket.
swapping the Engine isnt as simple as when I last did it. If you can take off head and it is the gasket, bores look ok, no holes around edge of pistons, then I think go ahead swap head, water and oil pump if its front mounted type and go.

Good luck, please keep us informed of your progress.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

That’s a good point about using the new head if it is just the gasket. 

Yeah I have been burning a ton of oil. I’ve read about newer engines burning more because they try so hard to reduce friction, but I had a feeling something was off and checked compression while doing plugs 

I can remember when I noticed it seemed to loose some power. Just one day it felt slow. It was maybe 7k miles ago

Last motor I did was a 71 Mercedes diesel, but those are mounted straight in. I saw a guy pull just the motor out of a versa but I am doubting the clearance to separate the tranny. I think I might bring them out together.

I have done a clutch in this car and I dropped the transmission out the drivers side wheel well.

But it is true I could probably have the head done pretty cheaply.

Tough calls. And Yes I will post the job and take some pictures. Going Monday to pick up the motor.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Well if you are losing that much oil it's probably the pistons and rings!

The only other time I lost a lot of oil was down the intake gasket on a V8.
I think you will need that Engine !

Good luck...


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

IanH said:


> Well if you are losing that much oil it's probably the pistons and rings!
> 
> The only other time I lost a lot of oil was down the intake gasket on a V8.
> I think you will need that Engine !
> ...


Thank you. Hitting the road tomorrow. I sold my engine stand at a garage sale awhile back and kicked myself now. Went to harbor freight today and they were sold out. They did have the next size up on sale for $12 more. Off to a good start.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok we made a quick road trip and picked it up. I am surprised by how light it is. I have never had an aluminum block. Two strong guys could probably lift it. My dad and I aren't two strong guys so we rented a picker for an hour. 

The spark plugs look original and what I would expect for 25k miles. 

It has the original blue coolant in it. 

The dickstip looks nice and clean. 

I picked up tranny fluid for the manual, coolant, a thermostat, and I had sparkplugs and oil. I am $412 into it so far. I need a serpentine belt. I am debating on the water pump. It is $80. I pulled mine out and it looks flawless, which probably means nothing. 

I am also looking for a pilot bearing. I am going to reuse the clutch but am reluctant to pull my old pilot bearing and reuse it. It is a stage 1 from Action Clutch. I will measure the thickness when I get it out and make sure there are no cracks.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok, I am partway there. Basically, on the lower backside of the motor, there are two bell housing bolts facing the opposite direction. A ton of heat guards. A crank position sensor. And a little gremlin that stops you from getting to them. The proper procedure is to drop the subframe, but I don't have a lift. After this experience, I want one. 

I have most of the bolts out, I thought. I supported the bottom of the motor on the pulley side with the stock jack and unbolted the motor mount. I hooked up the engine hoist and then could support it with that. I moved the jack to the transmission and was going to try and wiggle the engine out. But I missed some bolts. So I had to reattach the engine mount so I could jack it up again.

I am going to try getting some heat shields out of the way, but if I fail to separate them I am going to hate life. So I think I may just drain the tranny and pull the axles. And pull them both out.

Learning how difficult it is to replace the alternator, I may get a new one and do it while the engine is out.

I unbolted it and zip tied it up near the radiator. You have to bend some coolant lines take the bumper off to get it out. 

I also learned the doner motor that was matched with an auto trans has a different flange for where the heater core hooks up. My manual car has one less pipe. So I have to switch those and get a gasket. The Nissan part number for that gasket is 11062-1KT0A. Any parts store should be able to cross-reference that number. I will post a picture of the flange.

So if you are reading this and about to do it, get a new water pump, alternator, tensioner pulley, and belt and replace all those. Get new coolant hoses (7 total) and spark plugs. And don't try to get here in again. I unbolted the AC pump and am trying to leave it in and not crack the lines. Fingers crossed.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Dont forget the pilot bearing only spins and has wear when you have your foot on the pedal. It's probably fine even with stage one clutch for a long time. Did you actually get one that's different from stock with the stage one ?
The water pump is just a wear on the seals and bearing issue, can you use the one one the donor engine ? How many miles on you old water pump?


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok here is the weird part. The manual doesn't have a pilot bushing. The automatic donor does but its pressed in on the end. The pilot is ID 19.5 and the interior hole on the crank and tranny output shaft is 20.5.

While assembling, we gave them too much force while the tranny wasn't fitting, and cracked part of the lower oil pan that connects to the bell housing. So I have it back on the stand and am swapping the lower pans. The oil pump is driven off the timing chain and built into the lower pan, so I have to get into the timing chain. I mine as well check the crank bearings at this point. 

My old water pump had 140k miles. My donor has 30k but it probably sat a lot and dried out. Its so hard to get to the front of that motor, I just got the alternator rebuilt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and heater hoses. 

Big project but when done hopefully I won't have to touch the damn thing again for 150k miles. Pictures of the auto donor with the pilot bushing below. Once I burn out on computer work I am going to go pull it out.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Well that's interesting, the auto uses a pilot bearing to stabilize one side of the torque converter that presumably rotates at transmission Input speed. ? ?
I think you are doing an excellent job, but I was brought up in post war Britain and would reuse more than you, but as I said you are doing an excellent job.
Bearing looks thicker than 0.5 mm so I think the ID is smaller.
Good luck, keep it coming !


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

IanH said:


> Well that's interesting, the auto uses a pilot bearing to stabilize one side of the torque converter that presumably rotates at transmission Input speed. ? ?
> I think you are doing an excellent job, but I was brought up in post war Britain and would reuse more than you, but as I said you are doing an excellent job.
> Bearing looks thicker than 0.5 mm so I think the ID is smaller.
> Good luck, keep it coming !


Yeah I know my generation is so wasteful. For me its time and convenience. I am X dollars per hour and the time to replace an alternator later isn't worth it. I will throw some extra parts in the trunk. And will make a post somewhere to give away the parts for someone in need. 

So I got a bite on this pilot bearing with my little slide hammer but its not coming out. My big one needs new teeth. Writing this I realize maybe I need to invest in a new tool. I am wondering about heating it with the torch. Or I could weld a nut to it that would give me a great grip to grab onto and hit with the big slide hammer. I am removing the lower pan so I might replace the main seal. Heating the crank seems sketchy.

Putting the word out and seeing what the committees think. No rush now. I live in a tiny little town and bike everywhere.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

maybe a new post on the pilot bearing ?
I dont like using a torch around seals. 

otherwise I dont know about welding on to the pilot bearing, someone else might have more insight.
Have a good Thanksgiving!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

lucas602 said:


> Yeah I know my generation is so wasteful. For me its time and convenience. I am X dollars per hour and the time to replace an alternator later isn't worth it. I will throw some extra parts in the trunk. And will make a post somewhere to give away the parts for someone in need.
> 
> So I got a bite on this pilot bearing with my little slide hammer but its not coming out. My big one needs new teeth. Writing this I realize maybe I need to invest in a new tool. I am wondering about heating it with the torch. Or I could weld a nut to it that would give me a great grip to grab onto and hit with the big slide hammer. I am removing the lower pan so I might replace the main seal. Heating the crank seems sketchy.
> 
> ...


Pilot bearings can be pita to remove. Slide hammers don't always work and can mess up a pilot bearing if you ever want to re-use it. Here's a tool that I use; works every time:









Sunex 3916 Sunex Tools Pilot Bearing Pullers | Summit Racing


Free Shipping - Sunex Tools Pilot Bearing Pullers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Pilot Bearing Tools at Summit Racing.




www.summitracing.com


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

IanH said:


> maybe a new post on the pilot bearing ?
> I dont like using a torch around seals.
> 
> otherwise I dont know about welding on to the pilot bearing, someone else might have more insight.
> Have a good Thanksgiving!


Make a new thread on the pilot bearing? I can do that. 

Here is what my buddy suggested. 









Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece


Amazing deals on this Slide Hammer And Puller Set 5Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com





He said "teeth and tiny things suck"

I wonder if that summit tool could do it. It may be next on my list. There is a mache shop two blocks away, and I can lift this motor right into the truck, but I kind of want to win at this point.

So I finally have a solid grip on the bearing (bushing) with that tool. The dinky slide hammer won't do it, so I just went and got some nuts to make ad adapter to my 5 lb hammer. 

I got one nut that fits the bearing tool and one that fits the 5 lb hammer and I am going to weld them together. I will take some pics on my phone and report back. Once I get it I will make a separate thread for them to pin it. lol.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Man, when you get a win like that it's a wave of happiness with a queazy stomach at the same time. So the trick is the harbor freight inner bearing puller with the autozone slide hammer. Take both into ace and find two nuts that fit and weld them together.

Personally I have a $70 flux welder from harbor freight under my work bench for making tools. It does a crappy job, but it works, and its $70. The downside its 20% duty cycle. So you can weld for 2 min then let it cool for 10 min with its fans on. I wrote on mine with white-out for whoever borrows it.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

The summit tool says minimum opening is 1.0 inches, I think that's Too big, you said about 20 mm from memory.
The harbor freight set looks good, has good reviews.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok after the quick smash and grab job of throwing a motor in didn't work, I took my time.

I had the alternator rebuilt locally (much better than reman from store and 50% of the price)

I replaced the main seals, valve cover gasket, and all the o-rings on the sensors.

I painted the lower pan and timing cover as they were from my old motor and beat up.

I used copper spray on all gasket surfaces and hose connections (to avoid sticking) and gasket sealer where applicable.

I filled it with oil and have been turning it over by hand every day. On an older motor, I normally pour brake fluid and Marvel Mystery Oil down the spark plug holes to free up the rings. This one sounds ok. Once the tranny and starter were on I cranked it awhile with the spark plugs out to get the oil moved around. 

I debated on the throwout bearing. I have a stage 1 clutch from action clutch and it's 98% life left after 90k miles, lol. But I bet I will be rebuilding part of this tranny before the throwout bearing goes. Honestly, the tranny comes out in about an hour and it weighs 40 lbs. Maybe it was a mistake to not replace the throwout. 

This job is meant to be done on a lift and you drop the subframe. The crank position sensor is on the backside of the motor, covered by multiple heat shields, which makes it a bear to mate the engine and tranny in the car. I bolted them together and am going to put them in from the top. I took my old crank sensor, and the female part of the harness from the donor motor, and made an extension. This way I am not feeling around blind with 8mm bolts trying to install the heatshields after plugging in the sensor. 

Pictures give the whole idea, but I cut the sensor off with a Dremel, drilled holes against the pins, and soldered it together. I poured liquid tape all over it and gave it a blessing. It tested well with the meter, but there's a chance I may scrap this idea if the car won't run.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok the crank sensor extension was a bad idea. lol

Shes all in and plugged up. Found a few things unplugged and got most the lights off. 

Now chasing down a random misfire. I noticed I may have swapped the cam sensors, but that shouldnt do it. I have a permanent code for p1148 which is the o2 sensor in the manifold. I have since connected it and am trying to clear the permanent code to no avail.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

lucas602 said:


> Ok the crank sensor extension was a bad idea. lol
> 
> Shes all in and plugged up. Found a few things unplugged and got most the lights off.
> 
> Now chasing down a random misfire. I noticed I may have swapped the cam sensors, but that shouldnt do it. I have a permanent code for p1148 which is the o2 sensor in the manifold. I have since connected it and am trying to clear the permanent code to no avail.


Can you swap a spare ?


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Yeah I have a box with an extra of everything. Huge bonus to the junkyard motor. I just don't have a place to start. I don't have any codes for sensors unfortunately. 

I sprayed some starting fluid around looking for leaks. I just flushed it and am going to see if the water still looks oily after running. Then take the intake back off and check every plug and wire. Then compression I guess.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

lucas602 said:


> Yeah I have a box with an extra of everything. Huge bonus to the junkyard motor. I just don't have a place to start. I don't have any codes for sensors unfortunately.
> 
> I sprayed some starting fluid around looking for leaks. I just flushed it and am going to see if the water still looks oily after running. Then take the intake back off and check every plug and wire. Then compression I guess.


I also checked your code, and yes replace the O2 sensor. I have had heater fail and another with reading go out . Yours sounds like what mine did with bad heater


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

lucas602 said:


> Ok the crank sensor extension was a bad idea. lol
> 
> Shes all in and plugged up. Found a few things unplugged and got most the lights off.
> 
> Now chasing down a random misfire. I noticed I may have swapped the cam sensors, but that shouldnt do it. I have a permanent code for p1148 which is the o2 sensor in the manifold. I have since connected it and am trying to clear the permanent code to no avail.


Permanent DTC's will be erasable after a "B" driving pattern for 2 trips. Here's the "B" requirements from the manual:

DRIVING PATTERN B
Driving pattern B means a trip satisfying the following conditions.
• Engine speed reaches 400 rpm or more.
• Engine coolant temperature reaches 70°C (158°F) or more.
• Vehicle speed of 70 – 120 km/h (44 – 75 MPH) is maintained for 60 seconds or more under the control of closed loop.
• Vehicle speed of 30 – 60 km/h (19 – 37 MPH) is maintained for 10 seconds or more under the control of closed loop.
• Under the closed loop control condition, the following state reaches 12 seconds or more in total: Vehicle speed of 4 km/h (2 MPH) or less with idling condition.
• The state of driving at 10 km/h (7 MPH) or more reaches 10 minutes or more in total. 
• A lapse of 22 minutes or more after engine start.
NOTE:
• Drive the vehicle at a constant velocity.
• When the same malfunction is detected regardless of driving conditions, reset the counter of driving pattern B.
• When the above conditions are satisfied without detecting the same malfunction, reset the counter of driving pattern B.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

rogoman said:


> Permanent DTC's will be erasable after a "B" driving pattern for 2 trips. Here's the "B" requirements from the manual:
> 
> DRIVING PATTERN B
> Driving pattern B means a trip satisfying the following conditions.
> ...


OK so that is what those are. I finally unplugged the o2 sensor to see what happened and realized they were sticking in there. 

Saved for my when I really need that. Thank you. 

I had a book on my computer at one point. I realized recently I am doing this whole thing without one.

I found an injector unplugged. It cleaned up some. I am going to take a better look at the harness connector there. I remember thinking it was fun plugging all those in. Apparently I didn't fully click them in.

I am out of practive. I haven't done much since I bought this car 5 years ago. My mechanic just moved. SMH


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

lucas602 said:


> OK so that is what those are. I finally unplugged the o2 sensor to see what happened and realized they were sticking in there.
> 
> Saved for my when I really need that. Thank you.
> 
> ...


I had plug not quite clicked in, running rough.
Buggered cat, hope yours is ok


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Ok well final post or news for this one. Its done. Back up to 39.5 mpg. 

I kept getting a random misfire at the end. Also an air fuel mixture code P117A. I had a leaky injector on #2 and a coil pack out of spec. I took it by my buddies shop for the last round of dianosis. Well worth it. Pretty much how it usually goes for me. 

Back on here trying to remember how to bleed the clutch. My girlfriend is tired of pumping. 

Thank you all for the tips and support. My versa is ready to go for another 200k miles. 

Last thoughts if you are thinking about doing this, its fun, its light and easy work on a little car. There is less info out there than I was used to. Some aftermarket hoses don't quite fit. Its kind of a throw away car so expect a lot of unusual looks when you tell people what you are doing. I spent about $1200 on a junkyard motor and replacing EVERYTHING so I will be trouble free. 

I will post some pics of the motor and tear down after.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

lucas602 said:


> Ok well final post or news for this one. Its done. Back up to 39.5 mpg.
> 
> I kept getting a random misfire at the end. Also an air fuel mixture code P117A. I had a leaky injector on #2 and a coil pack out of spec. I took it by my buddies shop for the last round of dianosis. Well worth it. Pretty much how it usually goes for me.
> 
> ...


Sorry for the quote, it happens even when I hit reply on phone.
Anyway I am impressed. I have done what I have to and left rest. My early cars were 1954 and 1964 English and nothing his lasted very long !
You say 1200 for motor, do you have a total for motor and all associated parts ?
Once I came to the usa I had 71 and 74 V8 I worked on, rings, pistons cam chaines, valve guides and seals etc. (Dont mention the Honda CVCC)
Good luck !


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

IanH said:


> Sorry for the quote, it happens even when I hit reply on phone.
> Anyway I am impressed. I have done what I have to and left rest. My early cars were 1954 and 1964 English and nothing his lasted very long !
> You say 1200 for motor, do you have a total for motor and all associated parts ?
> Once I came to the usa I had 71 and 74 V8 I worked on, rings, pistons cam chaines, valve guides and seals etc. (Dont mention the Honda CVCC)
> Good luck !


I have the opposite problem, I struggle to quote. 

Yeah I have patched a lot of things back together as well. But being my daily driver I just want it trouble-free. 

So I spent 1200 total. The motor was $150. Honestly the most expensive was all the hoses, and I am still missing one. Once I get it I am going to do a good flush and change it. 

My mechanic buddy told me after all this, that sometimes a stretched timing chain can cause low compression in these things. But, the parts were more than $150. And I also burnt tons of oil and blow by was the worst I have ever seen. I can't wait to take it apart and check out the rings. The chain does have a little slack. 

If these motors are available in 5 more years I may do it again. ALthough I don't drive like I used to


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Update. 3000 miles in and going strong. Axle seal leaked. Throw out bearing is whining so might change that out. Wish I would have but my brain wasn't working right. It has a kevlar disc with 90% life but it does have 80k miles on it. Sure nice having all 4 cylinders. Thanks guys


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Pleased it's working out !


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Another update! New engine burns zero oil. Its getting 37 mpg, a few lower. There is a local place the cleans injectors, and tests. May try that.
The throw out bearing ended up being the input shaft bearing. I got all internal bearings and seals for around $200 from nissan. I had to split the transmission case. But its ran another 3000 miles and still going good. Thanks again for the help.


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## lucas602 (Nov 9, 2020)

Hello! We've been running her all over the place with not much problems. SF to LA a ton. Scootin right along. I got a 420 code and mpg went down a little to 35. I have some new o2 sensors to put in. 

The throw out bearing is making some noise. In SF now and the clutch didnt have full pressure. I had to pump some to get full disengage. Will check the fluid in the morning. But scratching my head what I could have done wrong. Wondering if there is some kind of spring to hold it back when not being used that I lost. I don't know really until I get it home and take the transmission back out.


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