# B14 200SX suspension installation instructions



## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

OK, originally this was going to just be a quick write-up, but over time I just
had to add more and more information to remove any ambiguities. Next thing
I knew it was rather large. Oh well, hope this helps someone out there... (maybe make it a sticky??)



*NOTES:*
a) This is not necessarily the best or the only way to do this, but it is the
way I did it. 
b) In order to save myself some time I am going to assume that the reader
has a general knowledge of automotive procedures, tools, and parts.
c) These instructions can be used as a general guide to install almost any
general spring & shock combination on this platform, but the specific parts
used in this example are as follows:

* 1. Eibach Pro Kit springs
2. KYB AGX gas shocks
3. Motivational Engineering rear strut mounts
4. Koni bump stops
*



SUGGESTED TOOLS (assuming no air tools available):
------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Strut-spring compressor (not a coil-spring compressor!)
2. Rachet & socket set
3. One large and one small rubber hammer
4. Pliers
5. WD-40
6. Anti-seize compound
7. Flat-head screwdriver
8. Wrenches
9. Torque wrench
10. Hydraulic jack and stands




SUGGESTED PROCEDURE:
------------------------------------------------------------------------


*FRONT:*
--------------

1) While the strut assembly is still in the vehicle loosen the top strut nut a
little bit, but DO NOT remove it completely at this time.
2) Remove the 3 strut assembly bolts at the hood ledge and remove the 2
at the steering knuckle.
3) Disconnect the brake line holder bracket.
4) Remove strut assembly from wheel-well.
5) Compress stock spring with the strut-spring compressor and remove the
top strut nut.
6) Completely disassemble the strut assembly.
7) Compress the new spring and slide it around the new piston rod.
8) Install the upper spring seat and the strut mount insulator with the arrows
facing toward the outside of the vehicle (pointing outward towards the
strut-to-knuckle attachment points at the bottom).
9) Screw the piston rod locking nut on a few threads.
10) Uncompress the spring, making sure every other component stays
aligned.
11) Now... you can choose to either completely tighten the piston rod locking
nut while the strut assembly is out of the car, or after it is installed. For me,
it was easier to tighten it down all the way after it was installed, but MAKE
SURE YOU DO IT, otherwise you will get a nasty clanking noise coming from
the front strut assemblies, and potentially break something. Also, you may
need to hold the piston rod with a pair of pliers to tighten the nut down all
the way.

Pieced together, the new FRONT assembly should be in the following order
from TOP to BOTTOM...

*
1. STOCK piston rod lock nut
2. STOCK strut mount insulator
3. STOCK strut mount insulator bracket
4. STOCK thrust bearing
5. STOCK upper spring seat
6. STOCK upper spring rubber seat
7. Koni bump stop (tapered end facing down)
*


*Compressed Eibach spring using a strut-spring compressor...*











*This is what the new front strut assembly should look like compared to stock...*










*Front strut assembly close-up...*











*This is what the new front strut assembly should look like when it is installed...*











*This is what the top of the strut assembly should look like after it is fully installed...*








------------------------------------------------------------------------------




*REAR: (very much like the front...)*
------------------------------------

1) Get to the top of the rear strut assembly by un-snapping part of the rear
carpeting from the area where the trunk opens to the back seat.
2) While the strut assembly is still in the vehicle loosen the piston rod lock
nut a little bit, but DO NOT remove it completely at this time.
3) Remove the 2 strut assembly bolts from where the strut assembly
connects the body and remove the 1 at the torsion beam.
4) Remove strut assembly from wheel-well.
5) Compress the stock spring with the strut-spring compressor and remove
the piston rod lock nut.
6) Completely disassemble the strut assembly.
7) Add the bottom rubber seals from the stock spring to the bottom of the
new spring.
8) Compress the new spring and slide it around the new piston rod.
9) Install the appropriate bushings and washers as shown in the order below.
10) Screw the piston rod locking nut on a few threads.
11) Uncompress the spring, making sure every other component stays
aligned.
12) Again... you can now choose to either completely tighten the piston rod
locking nut while the strut assembly is out of the car, or after it is installed.
(see step 11 above)

Pieced together, the new REAR assembly should be in the following order from
TOP to BOTTOM...

*
1. STOCK piston rod lock nut
2. STOCK gold washer
3. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing up)
4. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing down)
5. Motiv. rear strut mount
6. STOCK upper spring rubber seat
7. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing up)
8. Motiv. hardened metal washer
9. Koni bump stop (tapered end facing down)
*


*Pieced together, this is what the new rear strut assembly should look like...*











*Rear strut assembly close-up...*










*This is what the new rear strut assembly should look like when it is installed...*








-----------------------------------------------------------------------



Now you're gonna need a full alignment! And if you don't know of any
reputable shops in your area that will align a modified vehicle you might just
want to search www.tirerack.com under "recommended installers."
Make sure to check off 'Shocks/struts', 'Springs', and 'Performance
suspension products'.


Hope I didn't forget anything... :fluffy:


----------



## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

hope you like that its a real sticky now.. guys this is an excellent setup for a suspension, maybe people can vouche for this one


----------



## Nuskool (Jan 5, 2004)

Good Write up


----------



## NotAnotherHonda (Aug 7, 2003)

i have that same setup you have..minus the rear motivationals....i hope it goes as smoothly as you make it seem


----------



## Uni (May 25, 2004)

I want before and after pictures of the car now please..

MUST..... UP.....LOAD.. PIX OF.... CCCCCCCCAAAAAAARRRRRR!


----------



## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

LOL... oh man you crack me up dude... well iiiii want a turbo right NOW but we can't always get what we want right NOW.. hahah.

so why do you need pics of the car anyway? i don't really like postin pics cause it's still a work-in-progress and i'd rather people not judge and post comments based on the way it is now. maybe after i do a little bit more with it.

besides... there are many other before/after pics of our car with this setup on other places in this forum and on the net.


----------



## Uni (May 25, 2004)

Yea for whoever is going to upgrade/install a suspension follow this write-up. I just finished instalilng my Motivational Engineerings standards struts setup.. it was all easy.

YOU MUST GET A SPRING COMPRESSOR.

Thanks MCHENDHSD


----------



## Nismo1997 (Dec 26, 2003)

i just ordered the Kyb agx struts..do they come with the top plate n above? that set up..i installed coil overs n i didnt need those parts n now i cant find em..im looking to buy a stock suspenion for those parts..will b13 parts work on my b14?


----------



## Uni (May 25, 2004)

Nismo1997 said:


> i just ordered the Kyb agx struts..do they come with the top plate n above? that set up..i installed coil overs n i didnt need those parts n now i cant find em..im looking to buy a stock suspenion for those parts..will b13 parts work on my b14?


This belongs in the Classifieds section.. but look up LIUSPEED, i believe he has that available.

Thank you


----------



## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

*!!! WARNING !!!*

Just so you guys know.... there's actually a problem with the Motivational rear strut mounts. They are flat on the bottom! Why is this a problem? Well... when I went to get my car inspected for safety this past May, the technician said that it wouldn't pass because my rear struts were falling out! This was very surprising.

What was actually happening is that the top of the spring was sliding off to the side from the top of the strut mount. I assume that because of all of the forces pushing on the spring assembly that it was just too much for the strut mounts to handle, even with the spring pushing against it so hard!

So what i had to do is disassemble the whole thing and put back in the stock rear strut mounts. Good thing I kept those babies!! DON'T SAY YOU WEREN'T WARNED ABOUT THE MOTIVATIONAL REAR STRUT MOUNTS.

(If anyone who knows more about this problem, whether you're from Motivational Engineering or not, please contact me by either posting a reply or sending me a PM. Thanks.)


----------



## Uni (May 25, 2004)

MCHNHED said:


> Just so you guys know.... there's actually a problem with the Motivational rear strut mounts. They are flat on the bottom! Why is this a problem? Well... when I went to get my car inspected for safety this past May, the technician said that it wouldn't pass because my rear struts were falling out! This was very surprising.
> 
> What was actually happening is that the top of the spring was sliding off to the side from the top of the strut mount. I assume that because of all of the forces pushing on the spring assembly that it was just too much for the strut mounts to handle, even with the spring pushing against it so hard!
> 
> ...


This is blasphemy.. i hope you're ready for the storm!


----------



## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

OH I'M READY lol... (i wouldn't have posted that if i seriously didn't think it was a problem...)


----------



## MillerTime1.6 (Feb 2, 2004)

I'm not gonna go so far as to say that the moti rear mounts are shit, but I have an issue with them as well. I have the gc/agx combo, and the rears were improperly installed by a professional shop. The nut that holds the whole assembly together wasn't bolted down tight enough, and I stupidly used the stock rubber piece instead of the moti rubbers. Well, after months of me being a retard and not doing anything about it, the agx's have rubbed against the moti upper mounts and now the hole has gotten larger. Now, my springs are basically not even doing their job- they clank very loud even at slow speeds. I was surprised to see that the mounts had worn to the point where the hole got larger. I'll have a fun time ripping them out and re installing. I'll post pics later on.


----------



## MillerTime1.6 (Feb 2, 2004)

It was so loose, we could take the top nut off with a hand wrench. You can see how the shock rubbed right through the moti upper mount. Anyone else had anything similar happen?


----------

