# Clutch master cylinder trouble



## Arkangel (May 3, 2005)

A couple of SE-R owners down her in Florida have complained that the clutch pedal will sometimes stay on the floor. It does not stick but it is just when you touch it, it sinks to the floor. You can still engage the clutch fro a while that that gets difficult. One guy down her got a dealership to replace it with an upgrade. 

Is this a common problem with the SE-R , if so this may be more of a recall item and a concern. ?


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## 3.5altman (Jan 5, 2006)

yes this is a common problem with all 3.5 altys from 02+


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## cbatt (Jan 17, 2006)

*Clutch pedal drop*

Same thing happened to me. I have a 2005 V6 Altima.

It came back and I added fluid. Do you know what causes the problem? Should I be concerned of it happening again?

Thanks


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## stretch_tim007 (Mar 25, 2005)

Hey I am a lil late, but I was told by a tech at my Dealership of choice that its a "slave cylinder" problem that cant really be overcome. If it happens, or when it happenes, I am betting that you are in traffic, just pull over and turn off the car for a few minutes. Dont mess with the clutch at all... then turn it on and the pressure should be back to normal. Adding more fluid wont really do a thing. Just gotta live with it.


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## 2005SE-R (Sep 12, 2006)

Yes it can be overcome. Make them replace it like I did. It should be covered under warrenty. If they give you the line about having to duplicate the problem in order to fix it, tell them that 25 Altima SER's have reported the problem and they should have that in their knowledge bank. Or you can do what I did, call them everytime it happened and make them listen to me jamming it into gear as I drive. You'll have to put on your fight gloves, but they should replace it if it happens. It's a safety hazzard.


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## 2005SE-R (Sep 12, 2006)

Also they should replace the master and slave. So far it's working. Let me know if you need any more support. I battled the dealer for a week an half on this.


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## ram023 (Nov 2, 2007)

*Clutch replaced 3 times*

Own a 2005 Ser clutch sinking to floor. Dealer unable to duplicate from 100 miles-22,000. 
Tried to pusue Lemon law, Nissan disagrees no problem.
At 22,000 finally sticks to floor. Dealer replaces clutch pedal assembly, 24,000 stuck again, dealer replaces clutch, throw out and pressure plate, 28,000 sticks to floor again,in gear, dealer replaces slave cylinder, 32,000 sticks again, dealer relaces clutch master cylinder finally at 38,000 problem supposedly resolved. 58,000 down shifting from 5th to 4th exiting highway and clutch explodes and pedal onces again stuck to floor. Nissan wants to charge 1500 to fix, extended warranty will not cover replacement.
Currently waiting on Nissan to determine what action if any they are going to take.
I am ready to turn the car into a rolling Lemon billboard if Nissan does not make it right.
anyone no of a active class action suit addressing this issue, please advise.
Thanks in Texas


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## sseat44 (Mar 27, 2009)

*Here os what happened to my clutch*

My wife took my Altima S-Er to Jiffy lube. They added power steering fluid to my clutch fluid to "top it off". The clutch stuck to the floor. We had to bleed the system twice. It still works, but occasionally I have to pump the pedal, and give it some time to come back all the way. After this happens, the only real way to fix it is to replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system. I have learned not to hold in the clutch for long periods, i.e. traffic lights. I take it out of gear.


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## haleymcclellan (Apr 7, 2009)

*Sinking Clutch Issue*

I have had this problem sporadically ever since I owned the car (11/04). The pressure would build back up by the time I got to the dealer and they would do nothing since there were no symptoms of a problem. 
Now the car has 74K and the other day I was driving and the pedal sunk again, but this time it was so bad and the pressure never built back up and I could not get it into gear. At least prior I could engage... 

I called Nissan and told them the problem, that symptoms now exist, would it be covered under warranty since I notified them of the problem at 17,500 miles....uh nope.

So, now I'm going to fix it myself. Has anyone replaced the clutch slave cylinder? About how long does it take?

Thanks for the help.
Haley


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## yo man (Feb 25, 2008)

ok guys , i have that problem for 70000 km or more , i know what it is but to lazy to fix it , i even have part ready , all of you have to closely check yours clutch pedal assembly ,ak moving it site to site,and i bet you ,you gonna find that one of welding spots give up and pedal its rocking site to site. main give up on left side.i hope i help you all


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## NissanSATX (Dec 4, 2009)

I have a 2005 Altima SE-R which I purchased used in 2007. At the time I purchased the SE-R it had 25,000 miles on it. A few months after I got the SE-R I noticed that any time I would turn on the Air Conditioning, my clutch pedal would sink to the floor and using my foot, I could flap it up and down like if it was just hanging there. I didn't realize it was my Air Conditioning that may have been triggering it for quite a while. Then one day when it did do that, I turned off my Air Conditioning and started kicking the pedal. Still no response. Because my pedal was ingaged, I could still shift but really harshfully and had to jam it into the next gears. But I had noticed that once out on the open road, it popped back up with full pressure. I had also noticed as well, if I was going from a higher rate of speed and quickly slowing and trying to down shift , it would also trigger it to lose its hydraulics. Yes, if you are stuck in traffic for a extended time, the pedal starts to become floppy. It is losing it's hydraulics. If you are ever in a situation where you are stuck in traffic, do not hold down the pedal. Constantly keep going from 1st or 2nd gear to neutral. I did call Nissan on this problem and they did say it was the Master and the Slave cylinder both. Both would need to be replaced to "fix" the problem. They said it would be about $400. As of now, I have yet to do it. When it is a hot day, as it typically is here in Texas, I notice it becomes more sensitive. Also, if you do decide to pull over and shut down and start up your car again, while the car is off, make sure you pull the pedal back up in a normal position that way it can fill itself back up. It won't build itself back up if it is against the floor. My quick solution for this problem has been when it starts losing its hydraulics, even though it sounds bad, but pop the clutch hard. Make your SE-R jerk. Pop the gas and clutch at the same time and it works surprisingly well and quick. You don't have to shut off your car and pump the pedal, you don't have turn the air conditioning off, etc etc. Just pop it. While it occassionally happens, it has not detered me away from loving this car. Yes, its annoying and yes you would rather be driving a vehicle where you aren't constantly thinking about your hydraulics going out in your clutch pedal, or CRAP There is Traffic!! But over all its been a great car. With every great thing comes its problems.


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## veggi3s (Dec 31, 2009)

I just purchased a used 06 Nissan Altima SER 6 speed with 28k. I drove it today for the first time and realized that it has a sinking clutch problem too. Is there any way to get this fixed or you just have to let the pressure build back up. I'm afraid to bring it to a nissan dealership, pay a bunch of money, and still have problems like this reoccurring. I'm a student and this sucks a$$!!!!!


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## rmeske (Feb 12, 2010)

*Altima SER Clutch issues*

I have had clutch problems on my Altima since I purchased the vehicle. I have experienced two different types of problems.

1. When using the clutch in heavy traffic the clutch will eventually lose pressure and stick down.

2. In cold weather if I do not let the car warm up for a few minutes, the clutch will not fully disengage.

It took a long time in convincing the dealer there was a problem the first time and they finally replaced the Master cylinder and eventually had to replace the rest of the clutch because of the wear on it. I continued to have problems and they eventually replaced the transmission.

I am now having the Master cylinder and slave cylinder replaced again. Fortunately this has all been under warranty.

I suggest you report the problem to NHTSA and perhaps we can force a recall and everyone can get their problem fixed finally. Office of Defects Investigation (ODI), File A Safety Complaint


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## tapuai (Mar 2, 2010)

*Clutch pedal problem*

Own a 2005 Altima 6cyl and have been having this problem since 2007, been taking it to Palmdale Nissan dealer and all they say is they can't duplicate the problem and therefore, there's no problem. Last time this happened was around Oct. 2009, I was on freeway when the clutch pedal got stuck to the floor, almost got into an accident. Had to tow car home & took it back to dealer the next day, they gave me same story.

Called Nissan headquater and they referred a regional rep to come out & take a look at it. He inspected it and said same thing, 'can't duplicate problem' & don't know exactly what's wrong, but recommended to change both slave cylinder and master cylinder. I haven't change either one since he's not sure of the main cause & if this will fix the problem. Also they won't cover this under my extended warranty since it started while I was still covered under my extended warranty. 

This is a safety issue and Nissan should do a recall on this. Or are they waiting on lawsuits from accidents due to this on going problem with their cars?


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## Arkangel (May 3, 2005)

If any one can assist me with this. Post the manufacturer of the master and slave clutch parts. The reason why I ask for this the common problem are these parts and what ever part Nissan is using is the defective part. I have had mine changed and still suffering from the same problem. I have found a possible aftermarket part but i need to know who makes the part for Nissan so i can try somthing. If it works i will post the news.


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## byrvin84 (Mar 9, 2010)

Yes this is common issue.I bought a 2008 Sentra ,everyday something else has messed up.I am facing some trouble with my car day by day like :

1- alarm would not go off even after it was started
2- window went off track
3- convertible top inside started coming down
4- reverse went out
5- whole transmission went out except 1st gear
6- starter went out.


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## Russer (Jun 30, 2007)

Arkangel said:


> If any one can assist me with this. Post the manufacturer of the master and slave clutch parts. The reason why I ask for this the common problem are these parts and what ever part Nissan is using is the defective part. I have had mine changed and still suffering from the same problem. I have found a possible aftermarket part but i need to know who makes the part for Nissan so i can try somthing. If it works i will post the news.


It is not the master nor the slave.... it is the clutch fluid boiling and causing air pockets... Nissan Headquarters is now ignoring us, and we are very scared of what has happened already... it is a safety issue.... We have bled the clutch fluid 4 times within a month and it is still doing it. 

Duplicate problem: engine HAS to be warmed up, AC off, red line in first and then 2nd gears, by the 3rd gear you might have a 1/2 way drop.... you are heating up the clutch line going to the piston on the tranny... I have a cell phone video of my clutch hitting the floor... Nissan Headquarters ignored. 

Next step is trying Amsoil DOT 3 brake fluid, it has a higher boiling point will report end results later.


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## 06-altima-ser (Jun 22, 2010)

I'm having the same problem right now, my clutch was replaced about 1 year ago and now the clutch pedal sticks to the floor and i have to use my foot to bring it back up, pump it and it works. I've put a complaint to the @ Safercar.gov and see where it goes. This is a safety issue for us. I read most of the posts on this, and nissan is being lame :lame: not wanting to fix it under warranty or a least acknowledge that there is a problem.


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## 06-altima-ser (Jun 22, 2010)

rmeske said:


> I have had clutch problems on my Altima since I purchased the vehicle. I have experienced two different types of problems.
> 
> 1. When using the clutch in heavy traffic the clutch will eventually lose pressure and stick down.
> 
> ...


I did reported my issue with ODI about 5 mins ago...we'll see what happens guys.


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## Tony Two-Tone (Feb 18, 2010)

This is definitely a common problem and something that needs to be addressed. Unfortunately, it seems to be hit or miss when it comes to getting the dealer to replace it.


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## 06-altima-ser (Jun 22, 2010)

*Clutch Pedal*

Hi guys,

I read a post by someone here a few days ago but can't find it...anyways, it was about the clutch pedal moving left to right and was really loose. I went to Kragen and bought a socket tool clipart with a long extension and tightened up a screw that holds the pedal, it is behing the wheel high up on top of the cluth pedal. The screw was just loose and it took me 3 mins.

You'll have to lay down on the floor of the inside of the car (in front of the driver seat) and look up with the flash light, you'll see the screw head up there attached to the pedal. Problem fixed :idhitit:


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## Russer (Jun 30, 2007)

As of today (Aug 06, 2010) I am trying Valvoline synthetic DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid which has a minimum wet boiling point of 311 degrees F, whereas the Prestone synthetic DOT 3 break fluid minimum wet boiling point is 284 degrees F....

So far so good.... we were flushing and bleeding the clutch at least once a week ($$$) so we will see if this helps... will post later an update


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## dpiedra (Aug 17, 2010)

Just wondering .... Those of you that are replacing the master cylinder, how often were you experiencing the issue with the clutch pedal? I have not had the problem more than perhaps once every 6 months or so. Just wondering if a faulty master cylinder would lead to more frequent issues with this? If the problem is only a result of the fluid being DOT 3, perhaps the condition only occurs on those occasions when it heats up (i.e. slow moving traffic) which is how mine ends up in that situation. 

Certainly the idea to not sit on the clutch in traffic sounds like a good one.


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## tapuai (Mar 2, 2010)

In May 2010, I drained out the DOT3 brake fluid & put in Prestone DOT4 & had no problem until 8/24/10, the clutch starting to loose again so I turned off the A/C & drove 5 more miles but had to jam it from gear to gear. It's very unsafe to drive long distance with A/C on on a hot day.


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## ghostryder12 (Jan 5, 2011)

This happened in my '06, 6 speed manual. Only happened in the summer heat of central California. I found out by research that the factory fluid used is DOT3 and cannot withstand the heat produced by the motor and the placement of the cylinders near the exhaust manifold. I replaced the fluid with DOT4 fluid and it helped until the heat got worse in stop and go traffic. I'm going to replace DOT5.1 fluid, recommended by a buddy racer. It's synthetic and has a much higher boiling temp.


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## sseat44 (Mar 27, 2009)

I replaced my slave cylinder with an aftermarket (Advance Auto $29.99) one in August. It was an easy job. Removing the battery helped. The old slave cylinder was gummy. I bled the system and refilled it with Prestone fully synthetic DOT 3 brake fluid. I have driven about 15k miles since then, and have not had any more problems.---My fingers are crossed.


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## tapuai (Mar 2, 2010)

I replaced DOT3 to DOT4 in June 2010 & was running ok until it go so hot & clutch started to get loose again, had to force gear in order to get home. It only happened once this past summer & also had to drive without A/C the whole summer, was afraid of getting stuck on the road. I'll have to try changing it to DOT5 this coming summer & see if it works....


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## ghostryder12 (Jan 5, 2011)

tapuai said:


> I replaced DOT3 to DOT4 in June 2010 & was running ok until it go so hot & clutch started to get loose again, had to force gear in order to get home. It only happened once this past summer & also had to drive without A/C the whole summer, was afraid of getting stuck on the road. I'll have to try changing it to DOT5 this coming summer & see if it works....


Another thing I'm going to do is get some heat shielding to wrap around the cylinders to protect them from the exhaust manifold heat.


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## mb24120 (Feb 21, 2011)

*SE-R*

Currently having the same problem. I just bought a 2006 about a year ago. The car was running idle for about 20 minutes. When i got back into the car the clutch didn't have the normal pressure. After about 30 min of driving the clutch was on the floor luckily I made it home. 

I took it to the dealer ship and they are saying there is air in the line. I don't believe this will correct the problem. I will report back on any future problems.


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## gatorgirl91 (Mar 14, 2011)

*Having similiar issues*

I am having the same clutch issues with my 2005 Nissan Altima. I took the advice of a rmeske and reported it to http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/. 

Thanks!


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## quikcobra (Sep 8, 2008)

It was happening to me in my 05 SER just about everyday here in Florida. It got so annoying I swapped the fluid, Bleed the slave a bit different, Kinda backwards with synthetic dot 4. Has'nt happened again... Below is a link of kinda how I did it if it helps...


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## sfbut (Mar 24, 2011)

Hey guys,

Great info. With me issue started (05 SER, 80,000) and I was able to pump the clutch back up as it only happened a couple of times. It got more frequent last summer so i replaced the master C. No problems to yesterday when it went to the floor and stuck and did it every time I held the clutch for a long period. Replaced the slave today and problem is still there!!! @ buddies both techs response; 1- replace the pressure plate, 2- that its a leak in the system. I don't know where to turn, fluid, Master again, pressure plates?????


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## sfbut (Mar 24, 2011)

*Additional*

Dealership claims its a bleeding issue and they find using a power bleeder works.....So, take it as you will. Hmm, design issue........:thumbdwn:


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## tapuai (Mar 2, 2010)

I've changed the brake fluid from dot 3 to 4 about a year ago & am having the clutch problem again, happened 3 times so far. I'm willing to try dot 5.1 but not able to find it at auto stores, does anyone knows where I can get a can of dot 5.1 brake fluid?


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## joeyrinaldi (Jun 9, 2011)

New owner here,

2002 altima 3.5. Had this issue happen once a day for 5 straight days. Replace slave cylinder (was leaking). Problem has not happened since but is still in the back of my mind. 

Is there any detrimental effect to replacing dot 3 fluid with 4 or 5?


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## nielsorj (Mar 17, 2009)

All these problems sound exactly like when your 'brakes get hot' and won't work. 

You are driving and it's pretty warm outside and you notice that you get a spongy feeling from your brakes. If you stop for a while, maybe 30 minutes to an hour, the brakes seem to be OK. What is happening is that the water, that has been absorbed within the brake fluid, begins to boil. When it boils, you no longer have a liquid hydraulic system, you have a gas hydraulic system, and those just don't work for your brakes. The boiled water, a vapor, compresses easily and your brakes don't apply. Sound right? 

Now think of your hydraulic clutch system. It uses brake fluid, which attracts water, just like your braking system. Your car get's hot, you're in traffic, no air moving thru the radiator to keep everything cool, and clutch doesn't work (the water in the brake fluid has vaporized) for a while, then it starts working again. The answer is that the clutch system needs to be flushed and refilled with NEW brake fluid, not that old can that's been in the garage for a few years, because it's absorbed water from the atmosphere. 

DOT 3 will work just fine. NO need to spend lots of money for other DOT 4,5 6, 999 etc. Just get it ALL OUT and replace it with all NEW fluid. Follow the procedure from the post #31. Much cheaper than taking it to a mechanic, or worse, yet, a STEALER.

Also, as part of your normal lubrication maintenance, why not just use a turkey baster and suck out all the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder every time you do an oil change. Then refill with new clean fluid. Wouldn't take 2 minutes. Won't get all the old fluid out, but you will at least get some new fluid in there on a regular basis. And it will prolong (not prevent) the day when you do a complete brake and clutch flush!


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## smokeyR (Jul 31, 2012)

after extensive research, it all comes down to heat. Component location is the reason. The slave sits in one of the hottest parts of the engine - right on top of the trans. Also, the line going to it also gets major heat soak, which in turn brings the fluid to its boiling point. Replacing the fluid with a synthetic DOT 3-4 with a higher boiling point solves the problem. You can also use DOT 5.1

Sent from my PC36100 using AutoGuide.Com Free App


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## ctfolmar (Aug 30, 2013)

In the last year I have had the master cylinder and 4 slave cylinders replaced. The slave cylinder is leaking again. I am wondering if it could be due a worn clutch disk allowing the slave cylinder piston to overextend? Reading this, could the heat be killing the seals on the slave cylinder? I was planning on replacing the entire clutch assembly and slave cylinder (again) But if the clutch assembly isn't the problem, I would prefer to avoid that expense and effort. Have any of you experienced this consistent slave cylinder problem. Does anybody have any ideas on a solution that will last more than 2 months? I really need some help, thanks in advance.


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## ctfolmar (Aug 30, 2013)

*05 Altima SE R clutch Slave Cylinder Hose*

I found my problem. it wasn't my slave cylinder after all. The hydraulic line feeding it had a pin hole. Nobody carries a replacement hose for it that I could find. However, with some judicious searching by the young man at my local Carquest, we found a replacement. A standard hydraulic brake line. It has been on the car for over a week now with no sign of a leak. I don't know what Nissan might charge for it (apparently a dealer item) but i paid under $16.00. the Carquest part number is SP 10657 if you ever need one. It comes from a 2004-11 Chevy Aveo 1.6l


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## Russer (Jun 30, 2007)

*May have figured out the clutch problem*

Look at where the clutch "normally" sits, even with the brake pedal. Looked at my 1990 long bed pickup and saw that its clutch was higher (meaning towards the steering wheel) so got under the steering wheel took clutch pedal out totally cleaned it up and found that all clutches have a normal self bleeding mechanism on it. With the pedal even with the brake pedal it was not able to self bleed.... move the clutch up towards the steering wheel and it has (so far) solved our problem completely. Where the clutch was being sucked down to the floorboards on a daily basis, in the last 3 weeks it has NOT and engages beautifully. NOT ONE TIME IN 3 WEEKS!!! Have your mechanics (or your selves) move the clutch pedal UP.0


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## ctfolmar (Aug 30, 2013)

ctfolmar said:


> I found my problem. it wasn't my slave cylinder after all. The hydraulic line feeding it had a pin hole. Nobody carries a replacement hose for it that I could find. However, with some judicious searching by the young man at my local Carquest, we found a replacement. A standard hydraulic brake line. It has been on the car for over a week now with no sign of a leak. I don't know what Nissan might charge for it (apparently a dealer item) but i paid under $16.00. the Carquest part number is SP 10657 if you ever need one. It comes from a 2004-11 Chevy Aveo 1.6l


Still on the car. No problems.

However, I did have to have the clutch assembly replaced. Turns out the throwout bearing was bad. Apparently it was creating so much pressure on the hydraulic system that the seal in the master cylinder would blow out after a couple of months. As soon as I got it back, I noticed greatly reduced clutch pedal effort. It was so much different, that at first I thought the mechanic had screwed up somehow.

I had the assembly replaced in May and it has worked like a champ since then.


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## tprowell10 (May 15, 2015)

*05 SE-R 6sp*

I read recently that someone put dot 4 clutch fluid into their reservoir, since dot 4 can withstand a higher tempurature, after they drained it of course. and they said it worked. Its a lot cheaper than paying out of pocket at a dealership to remove and replace the whole system. just a thought. Im about to do that to mine when I get a free weekend. but thankfully I have yet to experience it this year. I noticed mine only happens whenever its hot out or when I drive for a long period of time shifting.


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## Ser build (May 23, 2015)

I've had the same problems as everyone else the one thing that we have noticed is that it only does it when it's either really hot out for one or two when you have been driving and it gets really hot. So we bleed the lines and fixed the problems but what I shaping is the fluid in the line is evaporating in the line bc it boils bc it is close to the exhaust so by heat wrapping the line with exhaust heat wrapp pretty much took care of the issue . Hopefully helps everyone else out as well.


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## rmak (Mar 20, 2016)

Russer said:


> Look at where the clutch "normally" sits, even with the brake pedal. Looked at my 1990 long bed pickup and saw that its clutch was higher (meaning towards the steering wheel) so got under the steering wheel took clutch pedal out totally cleaned it up and found that all clutches have a normal self bleeding mechanism on it. With the pedal even with the brake pedal it was not able to self bleed.... move the clutch up towards the steering wheel and it has (so far) solved our problem completely. Where the clutch was being sucked down to the floorboards on a daily basis, in the last 3 weeks it has NOT and engages beautifully. NOT ONE TIME IN 3 WEEKS!!! Have your mechanics (or your selves) move the clutch pedal UP.0


Hi, I am wondering if this has completely fixed your problem. I have the same problem and so unpredictable when it will happen....The first couple times it happened right when I took my car through an automatic car wash. I thought it was something to do with that but the other day it happened out of no where. I can look at doing this (no clue how to as not a mechanic) and wondering if it is the final fix. Also does moving it have anything to with it not being as close to the heat as previously reported by several people.


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