# 2014 Altima starting issue



## jordanj24 (Oct 5, 2017)

Hey guys I am looking for a little help. I have a 2014 Altima with about 68k on it and I got in the other day, pushed the button to start and it was kind of slow to start and I realized it had reset the trip meter. Then this morning it turned over, but did not start the first time, luckily it did the second push, it again the trip had reset. When the trip resets it is also resetting the display stuff (color of body, wiper settings etc.) but not the radio presets.
Hoping it is an easy fix and maybe you guys could give me some ideas. I am no mechanic at all, so I would only guess maybe a low battery issue, but not sure if that makes sense with the radio not resetting. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The first thing to check is the battery post connectors for cleanliness and tightness. Make sure to also check the battery negative (-) cable where it bolts to the engine block. Check all the other ground points in the engine compartment to make sure they are clean and tight. If all that checks out OK, then the charging system may not be functioning properly.

A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual (FSM) should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch key to the "ON" position and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECU. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECU memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Or, you might just have a bad battery. They typically last around 3-4 years, so it would be a good idea to have it tested.


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## RJ64 (Jul 23, 2017)

I had my battery go bad when the car was 5 months old. Not a fun day on Christmas eve, but the dealer was open and had me done in 25 mins. The funny part is that the company that bought out the company I work for, makes the batteries. Huh.


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## jordanj24 (Oct 5, 2017)

Checked it and there is TONS of corrosion (which is weird because I just had the oil changed and they did the "inspection") so much so that I can not get the cable off and I have to by a new terminal and of course the parts store doesn't have one. supposed to have it today. Ill let you know if it fixes the issue. Thanks so much for your help!


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## Dean malenko (10 mo ago)

jordanj24 said:


> Checked it and there is TONS of corrosion (which is weird because I just had the oil changed and they did the "inspection") so much so that I can not get the cable off and I have to by a new terminal and of course the parts store doesn't have one. supposed to have it today. Ill let you know if it fixes the issue. Thanks so much for your help!


hey I’m having the same issue I was wondering what was the problem because I don’t have any corrosion on the battery at all but it does the whole reset thing tho ?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Dean malenko said:


> hey I’m having the same issue I was wondering what was the problem because I don’t have any corrosion on the battery at all but it does the whole reset thing tho ?


Read post #2 and #3


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## Dean malenko (10 mo ago)

Has anyone found out the exact problem because I’m stumped


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Dean malenko said:


> Has anyone found out the exact problem because I’m stumped


If you're having issues with any other systems like the door locks, see if maybe fuse #13 in the cabin fusebox is blown. That's the battery backup supply for the cluster. Also, check the 12mm nuts that hold the hot and ground cables to the lugs on the battery. It's common for them to work loose and bounce around, causing problems even though nothing is corroded.


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