# 97 Altima stops running on the road once a while, but NOT always



## smokefly (Jun 21, 2006)

97 Altima with about 65K miles

The problem started about two months ago. The engine just stopped running on the road. Engine check soon light, battery light and oil pressure light were on. RPM went to zero. It happened pretty often at red traffic lights and stop signs. The other thing is it doesn’t act up all the time. I sent my car to a mechanics but he couldn’t find the problem. I went to a Nissan dealer and wasted 83 bucks but they couldn’t help either. The dealer guy said it could be something wrong with the distributor but not sure. I went back to the garage and replaced the distributor with a used one. But right after that the problem came out again and I wasted another 100 bucks. Now I am really frustrated. So is the garage. He drove my car for three days but never had the problem at all. But I don't want to take a chance to have any accident on the road. I don't know what I should do. His only suggestion is to keep driving and send it back when it’s worse.
Any kind of help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.

picture of the dashboard is uploaded here:
http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc006251lq.jpg


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

smokefly said:


> 97 Altima with about 65K miles
> 
> The problem started about two months ago. The engine just stopped running on the road. Engine check soon light, battery light and oil pressure light were on. RPM went to zero. It happened pretty often at red traffic lights and stop signs. The other thing is it doesn’t act up all the time. I sent my car to a mechanics but he couldn’t find the problem. I went to a Nissan dealer and wasted 83 bucks but they couldn’t help either. The dealer guy said it could be something wrong with the distributor but not sure. I went back to the garage and replaced the distributor with a used one. But right after that the problem came out again and I wasted another 100 bucks. Now I am really frustrated. So is the garage. He drove my car for three days but never had the problem at all. But I don't want to take a chance to have any accident on the road. I don't know what I should do. His only suggestion is to keep driving and send it back when it’s worse.
> Any kind of help is greatly appreciated.
> ...



Your problem is exactly what I went through 2 years ago. Basically your rebuilt distributor is bad and you need to replace it with a new one. Whta do you expect for a $100.00 This happens all too offen with rebuilt electonic/ electrical components. The dealer is correct and the mechanic is stumped, as was mine. Shop around at a dealer for a new distributor, the cost is about $500.00. Or the other option is to replace it with another rebuilt and see if you get luckly. As a side note I went through 3 rebuilt dist. before I coughed up the cash for a new one.

Frank


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## smokefly (Jun 21, 2006)

Thanks a lot for all the information. At that time nobody was sure whether it is really the problem of distributor or not. That's why I tried a use distributor. I couldn't afford playing around with $500 when the problem was really located. 
Now the mechanic is giving me up. If you story is exactly what I am having now, I will go back and ask him to replace it with a new one.

Meanwhile I have some other things to report. The mechanic was saying my 97 altima should give a code if there is anything wrong with the distributor. Since he didn't get any code, he thought the distributor itself should be good. Nissan dealer didn't get any code either. Did your car have any code when it happened two years ago? Is it possible to have a bad distributor without any code?
The other thing is about the smell of gasoline. I picked up my car right after I posted my question here yesterday. I had the problem again last night. When I started the car, I could feel the engine shaking badly. Those lights on dashboard didn't come out yet. Seems to me that the car was trying to get started but couldn't. There was also a very heavy smell of gas around my car, inside and out. I shut it off and started it over again. Then it became okay. But it stalled again at a traffic light and I had to restart my car there. Does this gas smell give any hint? 
It also reminds me that couple weeks ago my friend following me saw black smoke coming out from the exhaust when my car was shacking on the road. I don't know how often this happens. My friend is not following me all the time 

Finally if like you said I should replace the distributor, you suggestion is I should buy it directly from the dealer, right? I was planing to send it to the garage and ask them order a new one and do it all. After reading your post, I think I should order a genuine one myself and take it with me to the mechanic.


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Off hand I can't remember but I'll have to assume the engine light / code was present when I was experiencing distributor problems. It might be possible to have a bad distributor without a code. 

You have a gas leak somewhere, do you see a puddle somewhere in the driveway? Next, check the fuel filter, and the hoses running to and from it. Check the evaporative emissions control it might be bad. Next, check the charcol canister to see if its damaged and then pull the back seat out and see if your fuel pump is leaking. I would purchase the Haynes manual, if you haven't all ready, to help you trouble shoot these problem.

You can still use the local mechanic to fix your car, just tell them to purchase the distributor at a dealer. Make sure they don't mark up the price though.

I'd look at the gas leak first, because its possible though not likely, it might be the root problem to your troubles.

Cheers
Frank


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## smokefly (Jun 21, 2006)

Some updates:
I was short of money to buy a BRAND NEW distributor. Meanwhile I was still driving it once or twice a week locally. Yesterday the engine service light came on all the time. I sent the car back to the garage this morning. This time the mechanic got some codes with his handheld scanner. 

1. MAF error or UXX error. Don't remember exactly. But this matches what the other mechanic's said. I mentioned in some other thread that another mechanic checked the MAF sensor and the voltage is not stable. He suspected it could be the problem, but he was not quite sure.
2. Idle control system malfunction.
3. Cylinder 1 ... (don't remember what it said). Actually when I sent my car to the garage the first time, I saw some engine oil outside of the spark plug on cylinder 1. I asked the mechanic if that's the problem. He said no. He thought it was from the cap. Now it seems like there was a leakage somewhere in the gasket and the oil went directly to the spark plug hole. I should've taken a picture and post it here.

I left my car there and the mechanic is gonna order some parts and probably fix my car next Monday. I will report back. We'll see.
If you guys have some suggestions or ideas, that'll be great.


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## shayak_b (Aug 9, 2006)

smokefly said:


> Some updates:
> I was short of money to buy a BRAND NEW distributor. Meanwhile I was still driving it once or twice a week locally. Yesterday the engine service light came on all the time. I sent the car back to the garage this morning. This time the mechanic got some codes with his handheld scanner.
> 
> 1. MAF error or UXX error. Don't remember exactly. But this matches what the other mechanic's said. I mentioned in some other thread that another mechanic checked the MAF sensor and the voltage is not stable. He suspected it could be the problem, but he was not quite sure.
> ...


Did you ever get around to solving this problem? I have the exact same symptoms on my car. I tried replacing the MAF. That didn't solve my problem, and neither did replacing the distributor. If you did in fact get around to solving this problem, any insight would be very helpful. The stalling, smell of gas, black smoke, I'm experiencing all of it right now!!


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

shayak_b said:


> Did you ever get around to solving this problem? I have the exact same symptoms on my car. I tried replacing the MAF. That didn't solve my problem, and neither did replacing the distributor. If you did in fact get around to solving this problem, any insight would be very helpful. The stalling, smell of gas, black smoke, I'm experiencing all of it right now!!



Your cat is clogged up and might need to be replaced. Have a mechanic look at that and the oxygen sensors. On a side note, post your question seperatly, repeating the same question on three posts might turn off some people from answering your questions


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## smokefly (Jun 21, 2006)

I took my car back last Friday and it's been running well so far. 
My mechanic put in factory plugwire and plugs, a used airflow meter and a valve gasket with tube seals. Since I had problem with cylinder #1, he also did oil and filter change at the same time. Total is $196.25 for parts and $207 for labor. BTW, I also asked him to put my original distributor back and took the used one off.
My mechanic couldn't figure out what the problem is until he got those codes. When I sent my car in before, he couldn't get any codes and couldn't do anything. I kept driving locally until the engine light stayed on all the time. I don't know if you have done it or not, but you may need to have your car scanned and see if there are any error codes.
G/L



shayak_b said:


> Did you ever get around to solving this problem? I have the exact same symptoms on my car. I tried replacing the MAF. That didn't solve my problem, and neither did replacing the distributor. If you did in fact get around to solving this problem, any insight would be very helpful. The stalling, smell of gas, black smoke, I'm experiencing all of it right now!!


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## shayak_b (Aug 9, 2006)

LONDONDERRY said:


> Your cat is clogged up and might need to be replaced. Have a mechanic look at that and the oxygen sensors. On a side note, post your question seperatly, repeating the same question on three posts might turn off some people from answering your questions


Thanks for the advice. I started a new thread, where you can now post. I am planning to check the oxygen sensors with a voltmeter myself this weekend. The engine starts playing up only after it has warmed up for a couple of minutes.... this seems to point to the O2 sensor. I have no idea what a clogged cat does, but I will read up on it


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## shayak_b (Aug 9, 2006)

smokefly said:


> I took my car back last Friday and it's been running well so far.
> My mechanic put in factory plugwire and plugs, a used airflow meter and a valve gasket with tube seals. Since I had problem with cylinder #1, he also did oil and filter change at the same time. Total is $196.25 for parts and $207 for labor. BTW, I also asked him to put my original distributor back and took the used one off.
> My mechanic couldn't figure out what the problem is until he got those codes. When I sent my car in before, he couldn't get any codes and couldn't do anything. I kept driving locally until the engine light stayed on all the time. I don't know if you have done it or not, but you may need to have your car scanned and see if there are any error codes.
> G/L


That's the most frustrating part. There are no error codes. It's making life really difficult. I've already tried the new airflow sensor, and replaced my valve cover gasket 3 months back. Also, my plugs and plugwires are fairly new (less than a year old), and I recently re-gapped the plugs. I guess I could try driving it till the service engine light comes on for good. Thanks a lot for your help.


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