# caliper mounting arm?



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

When doing the nx2k brake upgrade do you need the torque arm{mounting arm} as well? Question being how will the larger rotor clear the oem ga16 front caliper arm? Every thing I've read and the few I've spoke with never mentioned it. Is that because its not needed?


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

I just read a thread in the b14 section about the brake upgrade two people said that the mounting arm is need.Anyone says different? Help please...
Thanx in advanced


----------



## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

That's wrong.... it's not needed

if it's not in this article...you don't need it


http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august01/brake.shtml


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

In the article, it is stated


> 9.Take one of your new calipers, remove the torque member, place it into position on the new rotor.


Is this the original torque member on the SE caliper?
The torque member that came with the new caliper?

Confused...


----------



## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

peter96 said:


> *In the article, it is stated
> 
> 
> Is this the original torque member on the SE caliper?
> ...


okay good point... the new one... That should be pretty evident...once you see them next to each other.... no way the old one would work on the NX size caliper...

The AD22VF calipers bolt right on... you don't have to change anything except the caliper, rotors and of course pads...


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

I've heard that some of the rebuilt calipers available at part stores don't come complete, they are just '1/2 a caliper'.

I think that is what SXSENIS was asking about.

myoung, you are right.  
It is an easy and worthwhile upgrade with no modifications needed. Just swap parts.


----------



## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

You must ask for *loaded* calipers to get the torque arms. You will find that getting them separately will require a trip to a junk yard and then you'll end up with the calipers anyway.

The only alteration to make the NX brakes fit a Sentra is removal of the splash shield.


----------



## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

bahearn said:


> *You must ask for loaded calipers to get the torque arms. You will find that getting them separately will require a trip to a junk yard and then you'll end up with the calipers anyway.
> 
> The only alteration to make the NX brakes fit a Sentra is removal of the splash shield. *


the splash shield can be easily removed....


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

*loaded*

That is what i meant. So the turque member is sometimes not included and I would need to specify LOADED calipers. You know I didnt even bother to ask that, but I will. I found at autozone for 49.99 + tax. I'll call back around though to be sure. Ive priced them at 370 to do it all{rotors pads calipers}. I'll have to do a little cross town driving but I think it will be worth it.Thank you all.
I got it all clear now.


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

370 seems high.
Can you break that down?


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

*brakin it down*

50x2=100 calipers{50x2 core}autozone{have to order}
70x2=140 rotors-pepboys{have to order}
60=brake pads{vhx with new hardware}summit{mail order}

total 400 minus the core return
300 if my friend at autozone doesnt charge me the core
{I helped him cut holes for his side markers about a month ago}
the calipers are ryspestos{?},and include the torque member

I think the 370 was with power slot rotors, but I'm not sure they would be anybetter for my driving needs.


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

*vgx not vhx*

VGX not vhx{its that hill billy in me}


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

Oops again summit dont carry the proper pads so I geuss I'll call nissan..shouldn't be much diffence in price though, and if I member right they offer them with a hardware kit as well. so I geuss I'm still in the ball park.


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

That's a good price for the calipers, especially if you don't have a core charge.

Are the powerslots, slotted? That's fine if you want slotted rotors for the look. Just be aware you won't get any extra performance out of them over non slotted rotors. OEM rotors can be had for 55. Off brand rotors are as low as 27.

The Nissan pads are good. And they were only around 35.

Most prices are from a year ago through Courtesy, may have changed, YMMV.

Don't forget about brake fluid. Now is a good time to put something better in. Motul is good stuff.
Have you thought about SS brake lines? You can always add them later.

Compared to all the preparation, putting them on will be easy.


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

slotted for looks. I've read they dont help if any at all. the pads are like 40 here + tax. I think I'm going to shop around on the rotors some more. Your prices are more appealing. the power slots I found for 100 but I cant rember where I saw them for 70 at. The rotors from pepboys was just a solid disc, and if I can get slotted for the same price I'll go for it..Now brake fluid I have some syntec dot3/4 with a boiling point of 502 degrees.Ive been using for a couple years but isn't motul good for like 620 or close to that. Is it any thicker{stiffer peddal feel}About how much is it.
I found wilwood brake fluid thats good to 570 degrees and is about 7.00 a pint, but its only regular dot 3{thin}.I've got about 2 or 3 pints left from my last brake change of the syntec. I'l most likly just use that until I get some ss lines then switch brands.


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

The $27 rotors were from a thread on 
http://www.sr20deforum.com/
They were made in China.
A search for brake rotor china should turn it up.

Motul is about $10 a bottle. Get it if you do track events.
The Syntec should work fine otherwise.


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

Great, thanks again I'll check it out.sr20 forum hu...I really dont do preformance driving unless you count 3 to 4 trips to the drag strip a year or spending around 6 hrs. a day on the road between two jobs{tends to get the brakes pretty hot}.motul is far priced for what it offers compared to syntec.Its only 3 bucks more bottle it'll probly last longer too..Any way I'd better get back to work. Ive got two job renderings to finish befor I leave or I'll catch hell today.Thanks I'll probly buy the rotos first then do the calipers with nexted month bonus just in case I have to pay the core but steve said if they are busy and his boss isn't over his shoulder he'll just hand them over.


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

> compared to syntec.Its only 3 bucks more bottle it'll probly last longer too..


Motul 600 is a performance fluid. You need to change it more often than regular fluid. Part of what makes it so good on the track also attracts moisture. Motul also has a 5.1 fluid that is better for long term use.

For your around town driving, I'd just use the syntec up. Just be sure to use unopened bottles. Any left over in an open bottle will probably be no good by now.


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

Oh. If thats the case your right. Syntec helped when I first started using it, but I guess I've gotten use to it. I might swap brake fluid like every 30k or when I install new pads. I found rotors at nopi for 35 bucks, and the pad price I had was for the se-r brakes not the ad22vf calipers they are 58 bucks and the hard ware is 35. My local dealership said that they have never had to get those before and that the nx with abs is very rare in this area.


----------



## peter96 (May 4, 2002)

Good price for the rotors.
Depending on the calipers, you may not need the hardware order.
The pads you probably could get cheaper from either Courtesy(www.courtesyparts.com) or Mossy(www.mossyperformance.com), even with shipping.
Just say you are a se-r list member.

Of course, if your dealer has treated you well, there is something to be said for loyalty.
Maybe you could ask your dealership if they would price match?

You're almost ready for the install.
Some tips, put some saranwrap across the brake fluid reservoir top and put the cap back on. This will help keep all your fluid from draining out when the brake lines are off.
Use a new crush washer for the brake lines.
Use a good quality flare head wrench on the bleeder valve, you don't want to round it off.
Don't over tighten anything, use torque specs if you can.


----------



## SXSENIS (Jun 9, 2002)

I got a torque wrench and a nine piece brake tool set. I'm all set there. How does saranwrap keep the fluid from coming out?By creating a vaccum? Sounds like a cool trick if it works. I'll have to tell my boss that one. He'll probly laugh and say its some west virgina brake job trick or something. I dont know what I'm going to do with good brakes.I probly give myself seat belt burn.HaHaHa. Oh before I go I've been looking thourgh the se-r archives and I see alot of suff that would help me too. Thanks for directing me their.


----------

