# Positive Battery Terminal connections



## wogie (May 28, 2012)

I've managed to get 309K out of my 94 Sentra XL 1.6L 5-spd before making a bonehead mistake. I reversed the jumper cables trying to start it. :lame:

As soon as I realized it I removed the cables. There was a little smoking and it stopped. I hooked them up correctly and the engine started.

I removed the cables to put them away in the garage. When I went back to the car the engine had died. I noticed some smoking and a burnt component, a short brown wire with connectors on each end leading from the + terminal of the battery to a thicker white wire.

I looked at all the fusible links inside the panel mounted on the left inner fender. All are OK. 

Is this short brown wire another type of fusible link and if so where can I find a replacement?

I've searched the forum for an hour and the internet for a couple hours with no luck.

I'm hoping someone can help me get this car going again.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

I'd assume its another fusible link. Hit a bone yard and see if you can find one.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I show a listing for a fusible link wire P/N 24022-42L00 used on 91-94 Sentra 1.6L. You can see a pic of it at Courtesy Nissan's site. It runs $18.60:

LINK-FUSIB :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com


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## wogie (May 28, 2012)

*thanks*

Based on the diagram, I think thats it! I ordered one tonight. I'm hoping that's all I need. I'll post after getting it and try to start it again. I think this is the only thing I need to try to start it with another car's jump.

This is only the first step, I have a left rear brake line that sprung a leak and the front boots don't look good. I'm going to see what the cost is to get these replaced. I'm pretty handy but have not done work like that.

With the price of gasoline and my commute distance this may save me a lot of money if I can get this old car running again.

Thanks very much for the part number.


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## wogie (May 28, 2012)

*update - running again*

II got the fursible link - thanks 999smj999 for the part number. They were on backorder and came this week but could not for on the old car until this morning. The link was nothing to install. I bought a new charger (my 40-yr-old Schumacher is nowhere to be found - maybe I tossed it) and charged up the battery after filling some distilled water, and Viola! she started up. Topped off the leaky power steering and drove around the neighborhood.

Now at 309,221 miles and need to get the original problem fixed - the left rear brake line is ruptured - glad to have a 5-speed to slow down. 

I guess it is now decision time - how much to replace all the brake lines or is this a DIY project? I also probably have to replace the boots/axle, or so I am told.

And the A/C is not working but that's not a big deal.

Cheers!


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

Brake lines are cheap and easy. Do you know how to use a flare tool? If you can, just cut and flare. If not, measure the factory lines and see what you can get. Some creative bending may be needed to compensate for excess line as the parts stores generally carry premade lines in 6" intervals. Remember to get 3/16 line with metric fittings. The standard fittings will thread in, but strip out when tightened down.

A shop will want a lot of labor hours. Count on 3-500 for a full brake line job. 

Axles are pretty easy for most FWD cars. Undo the ball joint (sometimes the strut is easier) and pop the axle out. I suggest an air hammer or a puller for removing the axle from the wheel bearing. Sometimes they rust in place and need some persuasion to move. The axle nut is generally in the 30mm size range and you will need a torque wrench to apply the correct preload on the wheel bearing.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Do you really need to replace "all" of the brake lines? That's a lot of bending and double flaring!


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## doctor s (Jun 16, 2012)

New outer CV boots are about 8 bucks a piece. I've replaced both of mine and was able to clean everything up really nice it's a pretty easy job.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

With 309000 miles on it, there's got to be considerable wear on those CV joint cages and bearings. Makes a lot more sense, IMO, to replace with reman. axle shafts than replace just the boots.


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## wogie (May 28, 2012)

Update: I'm going to replace those axles and thats in progress. The barke lines too. I will enter a different topic if needed but wanted to close out open items from this one.

Today I'm working on my 2006 Pathfinder but that's a different forum once I find it.


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