# 1994 4cyl. Starter Circuit Tracing a No Start



## slman (Jul 23, 2018)

First while difficult starting...hearing that 'clicking' noise and eventually catching for a start. Now, no start at all. 
So, I replaced the blue starter relay. NO HELP
Cleaned and buffed ground wires NO HELP

Disconnected the black/ yellow wire to the solenoid down deep by the starter, and tested the 'hot' when keyed black/ yellow (greenish yellow) while wife is turning NO POWER

Went back up to the 'blue' starter relay, pulled the relay out,--- and tested with a light, all connectors in the plug, while wife is turning key. No juice with the test light.

So, the volt signal to make the solenoid do it's job, is now in complete failure. 
Any other ideas upstream before I buy a $70 plus ignition switch? 

Yes, I already by-passed the clutch pedal safety switch with a jumper.


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## slman (Jul 23, 2018)

Some news while working on it before my night shift.

Made a heavy 12 gauge wire jumper...(just held on by wife on the Pos. terminal of the battery) and me down in the wheel well (take front passenger wheel off, and plastic splash guard---and vola---starter at your ease to get to.
Touched the wire to the solenoid lead, and the starter engaged and spun like a champ. 
So, tested the relay wire plugs one more time, and work to date.---Power not getting to the starter relay PERIOD, for it to send it's volts down to the starter.
Onward tomorrow.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

One of your Fusible Links could be burned out.

Fusible links - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums

If those are OK, I'd suspect the Ignition Switch.


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## slman (Jul 23, 2018)

Replaced the ign. switch. Some carbon arcing from poor contact. So far almost too good to be true. Tried a dispersed 24 times to start it, and the system batted 1000. 
Found it by putting volt meter on solenoid small black wire. Disconnect,---have helper turn key, and note...my voltage read intermittently...Keep in mind, this is after the blue relay. So, tracing--- the wiring system back...the next check in line was the ign. switch.
Took the plastic steering wheel covers off, tested the ign. switch, and sure enough...wild and intermittent volt readings (and for kicks used a stab light too) Off cam the ign. switch, and pried it apart, and there was the carbon arcing, and worn contacts. 
Make sure you TAKE the old OEM switch and wire with you to the auto parts house, they are sloppy overseas with their solder job, and some of the new switches are soldered 90 degrees off.!!! 
They will NOT fit with the blinker (?) plastic rectangular housing if the wires don't come straight down! 

Repeat...take the old one with you.

Guys, sorry for the ignorant questions at times. Like testing in reverse Ken recommended---Pos lead on tester on battery neg. pole---neg lead of dvom to other end which is connect to block....
Dooooh...I thought you meant with both connected. Of course no reading.

So figured it out.....disconnect the neg pole and THEN put your volt meter in line.

By the way Ken---I got a reading (with the key off )---of 11.38 volts. Batt. was 12.50.
Hmmm, the truck starts fine now,....but where is that 1.12 volts being drained to puzzles me. It's hot right now, but will take the block connection and fender well connect off and buff them before calling it a day. Emoji ( a good day)




First pic shows the ease of getting it there with splash guard removed. I made that pliable guard out of swimming pool repair material. Original was destroyed by oil change people thru the years.


rocky

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