# Cylinder Head Removal



## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Hey again y'all! So I got a simple question for ya. My 2.4L HB has been actin a lil funny lately,and I'm no mechanic, but I'm pretty sure I have a burnt valve. She's misfiring,and the fourth cylinder isn't active any longer; i.e. I can take the spark plug wire off,and the truck will still run like it has been for the past two weeks. I haven't done a compression test,but I assume that's fine. Anyway's, I'm looking to take my head to my local NAPA to get looked at,and then "re-done",but before I dive into her,I'd like to know if there's anything I should look out for? Will I need to mess with the timing chain,or will that stay undisturbed? Do I need to drain the oil before hand? Do I need any specail tools? Etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I think you're getting way ahead of yourself! KA24E's rarely burn valves. Confirming a dead cylinder by removing the ignition cable off of the spark plug does confirm a misfire, but you'll need to do more than that to justify removing the cylinder head. Perhaps the fuel injector isn't working or the spark plug is fouled? Perhaps the timing chain jumped a tooth? A cylinder leakdown test would confirm a valve, head gasket or even a piston ring issue. To answer your other question, if you do remove the head, the timing chain will need to be "jammed" so that the slack won't be take up by the tensioner when the cam gear is removed from the end of the cam (make sure you mark the chain to the gear before disassembly). If that happens, the front cover will need to be removed. If the chain has high miles on it, I would recommend replacing the chain, guides and tensioner with the head removal.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Also prior to removing the head, set #1 cylinder to TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. The keyway for the cam sprocket should be at the 12 o'clock position.The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position. 

At this point do not turn the engine until everything is reassembled. So many shade-tree mechanics screw up the cam timing, ending up with the engine unable to start up or bent valves.


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

And dont forget about the Oil Pump shaft ...it has to be aligned up with the marks in the proper position....or it will not run.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Wow,this is sounding like a lot of work! Thanks for everyones input. 
smj999smj,how do I perform one of those cylinder leadown tests? I figured I'll start there to see what I'm getting myself into...


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Well, first you'll need a cylinder leakdown tester, an air line and an air compressor.

Here's a link to a tester available from Sears:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM6098608907P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

First thing you'll want to do is a compression test on all the cylinders to determine the general condition of the engine. If the #4 cylinder shows very low compression, then it can be attributed to a possible broken ring, bent/burnt valves or blown head gasket. At this point a leak-down test can be performed to determine the failing component. If the compression is OK, then the problem is fuel delivery or ignition.


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Very well. I will look into both of the tests and post my results on here once I get them. Thanks for the help so far fella's...


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Actually it is not a difficult job....just take your time....take pictures of things as you take them apart, get a manual....and keep things origanized.....one step at a time....check and double check.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

smj999smj said:


> I think you're getting way ahead of yourself! KA24E's rarely burn valves. Confirming a dead cylinder by removing the ignition cable off of the spark plug does confirm a misfire, but you'll need to do more than that to justify removing the cylinder head. Perhaps the fuel injector isn't working or the spark plug is fouled? Perhaps the timing chain jumped a tooth? A cylinder leakdown test would confirm a valve, head gasket or even a piston ring issue. To answer your other question, if you do remove the head, the timing chain will need to be "jammed" so that the slack won't be take up by the tensioner when the cam gear is removed from the end of the cam (make sure you mark the chain to the gear before disassembly). If that happens, the front cover will need to be removed. If the chain has high miles on it, I would recommend replacing the chain, guides and tensioner with the head removal.


Oh, I way agree with smj here!
You gotta slow down with this project, and as everybody alluded to, do a full diagnosis before jumping to conclusions and breaking the motor open. This whole thing could be as simple as a bad plug wire, or corroded injector connector... I mean, there are a lot of simple to fix things that could cause your truck's symptoms.

Also, not to be to critical because I know you are doing the best you can, but don't assume anything! Test it! Know what you are testing is good or bad before you go move on, so slow down and start with the engine basics. Study this thing hard and learn some mad skilz from all the highly experienced doods here. 

-R


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## 91HB (Aug 21, 2008)

Just an update. I'm having trouble finding spare time to work on her,but I have been doing a lil research when I can,and I've started checking the small things. Put new plugs and wires in her today (she needed them anyways),new cap and rotor,pcv valve,fuel filter,air filter,and I'm in the process of hunting down that cylinder head leakdown tester...I'll update you soon, once the leakdown test is conducted.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

91HB said:


> Just an update. I'm having trouble finding spare time to work on her,but I have been doing a lil research when I can,and I've started checking the small things. Put new plugs and wires in her today (she needed them anyways),new cap and rotor,pcv valve,fuel filter,air filter,and I'm in the process of hunting down that cylinder head leakdown tester...I'll update you soon, once the leakdown test is conducted.


Now that sounds more like a plan! Doing all that tune up stuff to catch up on maintenance is a great way to rule thing out, and/or hopefully even catch a problem.

I don't know which auto parts stores are close to you, but most AutoZone stores will rent you a leak down tester for a few bucks a day.

-R


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Just for info.....The Auto parts stores do not actually "rent" tools....The way their "rental program" works is : You purchase the tool you need, such as a leak down tester at store price, use it then return it......That is how they do it.....so, when you go into Autozone (for example)...be prepared to pay the full price for the tool.....

Just telling you this so you have no surprises when they want full price for a couple of days rental......


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

jblakeslee said:


> Just for info.....The Auto parts stores do not actually "rent" tools....The way their "rental program" works is : You purchase the tool you need, such as a leak down tester at store price, use it then return it......That is how they do it.....so, when you go into Autozone (for example)...be prepared to pay the full price for the tool.....
> 
> Just telling you this so you have no surprises when they want full price for a couple of days rental......


That makes complete sense. That way they aren't out anything if you keep it or break it. Honestly, I didn't know that because our shop has bought so much from them in the past they let us borrow tools if we need something we don't already have.

-R


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