# HOW TO: Install Hotshot Header (QR25DE Engine)



## thetimster (May 6, 2005)

I finally got my Hotshots Headers today and it couldn't have come at a better time! I had the afternoon off and I got right to it. I've been trying to see if Marc (ValBoo) would make his Headers thread a Sticky. But I think it'd be too much effort to have the pictures all redone just for it. Since I was going to do it, I decided to take some pictures along the way. (Sorry, my pictures are all taken with a phone cam. My digital camera still isn't working.)

I gained a lot of information from the following sites. It's a good idea to go through these first since I will likely miss out on some details. It always helps to get as much information as possible.

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/may02/specvmay02.php
http://nissanperformancemag.com/june04/specv/
http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=89388

As always, the first step is to remove the negative terminal of your battery.

Next is to remove the connections to your alternator since this will have to be removed to get access to the stock exhaust. The wires and harness need to be removed, then the belt will also need to be freed. The latter can be done by removing the passenger side tire, fender guard and releasing the belt tensioner with a 14 wrench.




Once the alternator is free of wires and the belt, the alternator can be removed by removing 2 screws that hold it to the engine.


The alternator was difficult to wiggle out. And once it was free from attachments, I couldn't take it out of its immediate vicinity without first removing the gold brace that attached it to the engine. The alternator bolts and the bolts for the gold brace needed 14 wrenches.

Next the heatshields needed to be removed. Mine came in 2 separate pieces. One for the top and one for the bottom. The screws are easy to identify. This picture only shows 2 screws on the upper heatshield. The bottom one had three. All were size 10 screws.

Top heatshield

Bottom heatshield


Once the heatshields are off, the stock exhaust can be seen. The QR25DE engines in the US (and the one that Marc has) has two O2 sensors. I guess our emission regulations aren't as strict. Because I lucked out with my X-trail having only 1 O2 sensor. I could be sure I had one only after the heatshields came off. That saves me the trouble of having to move the second O2 sensor after the second catalytic converter further down the exhaust. I also would've had to weld a sensor bung (supplied by Hotshots) down there and extend the wire of the second O2 sensor to do that. The stock exhaust is easily removed by taking out 5 screws on the top and 2 spring-loaded screws in the bottom. Remember to remove the O2 sensor from its harness!


(Just an aside... See the motor mount inserts that gave me so much trouble during their installation! Grr!)


Once the screws are off, the stock exhaust comes out through the top easily. Here's a comparison of the stock and the Hotshots headers.


Putting the Hotshots headers in place was easy. The screws fit right in. The headers came with a gasket but the stock one looked good so I reused it. After the bolts are tightened, everything has to be done in reverse... reinstall the alternator, hook up the wires and belt, put back the tire, put back the negative battery terminal... and you're ready to go!


Offhand, examining the finished product I had one immediate concern... the alternator actually touched the primary.  (Sorry for the blurry picture. This is all I had.) I think I'll just observe this for now and see what happens. There isn't any vibration during idle. I don't know what happens when its moving.


Also, during reinstallation of one of the bolts on the alternator brace, it was inadvertently inserted at a bit of an angle so now it doesn't go in all the way. :balls: It appears stable for now, but I will eventually place some washers in there to tighten it up.  

And one last concern... after starting up the engine, I kneeled down to feel where the primary connects to the secondary exhaust, I seem to feel some air coming out. And when the engine is revved, there seems to be a hissing sound down there at around 3500RPM and up.  I don't think this is normal. And I think I'll need to take it to a muffler shop to have them fit something in there to wedge it in a bit more. (Any ideas anyone?)

Test driving it a bit after installation, I felt some boost in the higher revs but.. it isn't as significant as I thought it'd be. I'm hoping this is due to partly to the ECU needing time to adjust to it. I also don't know if the air leak where the primary exhaust connects to the secondary would contribute to lesser power (though I think in theory it shouldn't cause any HP decrease). I think I'll post a follow-up in a few weeks (will be away from the forum till mid to late August... going on a trip to see my sister get married!) to see if there is any significant change and whether getting help from the exhaust people made a difference.

At any rate, if any of you have any help or input on the few concerns that I have, please feel free to chime in. Fell free to also make comments or give feedback. As always, they are always welcome and appreciated... good or bad! Well, catch you all later! :givebeer:


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

*Cool*

Excellent write-up there Tim, well done! :thumbup: 

The header certainly looks very nice, but as you mentioned, having it sitting so close to the alternator is a worry.

I would also suspect that the hissing sound could be caused by not using the gasket that came with the Hotshots header, but I could be wrong. Were they the same size/shape?

All in all, I think you've done really well and this mod would have to go into my "hard to do" list  but then again, now that I have an instruction to follow, I can get very tempted to do it, if I only had the time LOL


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## thetimster (May 6, 2005)

*Just a quick reply...*

... yes the gasket that came with the headers is the same size and shape. Though the one that came with the gasket was softer... felt like maybe asbestos (since I assume it should be heat resistant). The one with the stock exhaust seemed sturdier. The other posts reused the old stock exhaust as well.

I am thinking of putting washers onto the alternator brace when I come back. That way the alternator will be moved away from the headers. All I need is a millimeter or two.

Hissing seems to come from below rather than above. I'm thinking if I can get a downpipe custom made, I can get the hissing sound solved. Will definitely keep this thread posted. 

Thanks for your comments Jalal. Appreciated as always. I gotta run!


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## thetimster (May 6, 2005)

*Amateur job!!!*

Well, the DIY bug bit me in the *ss. I found out where the hissing sound is coming from. The gasket in the bottom got installed in a crooked way. The top part wasn't in properly and it was leaking. I finally got it fixed today at a muffler shop. Now the X feels more lively. The additional power is now quite palpable. I guess a leaky exhaust robs power too. Kinda intuitive in a way.

Well, since I was there I decided to consult the people there as to how I can improve the exhaust further. I have the headers now (now properly installed!) and a Tanabe muffler. Air flow seems much faster because the air coming out the tailpipe is louder. (A correct assumption I think.) Now I want to release it even more. the only remaining stock exhaust is the downpipe, cat and stock resonator. The guy there seemed informed enough. He asked the requisite questions. And after finding out I have a 2.5L engine, he quickly suggested a 2.5in stainless steel downpipe (vouched for by Terranismo and others) with one resonator (20in long by 5in in diameter) connecting the headers directly to the muffler... thereby removing the remaining cat. From my readings and browsing all the posts on this topic, it certainly sounds reasonable to me. But my experience is limited... as you can see from the amateurish install of the headers. ValBoo, Stephen, Jalal? Any input about the recommendations? And just out of curiosity, how much would this mod roughly cost in your neck of the woods? He is quoting around the equivalent of $300... which includes everything from raw materials, fabricating and installing the exhaust and a 5-year warranty.

Thanks guys!


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Tim,

Good that you found where that hissing sound came from...
You will still hear a slight "whizzzzing" sound around 4000 rpm.

Good if you feel you can run cat'less; I wouldn't feel right but that is just me (I also would have to deal with a check engine light on my model, and the repercussions if I get pulled over and car inspected)

The 2.5" downpipe replacement will be excellent. The stock downpipe is not very good since it is almost flat in some areas (at least on my model).

Original stock components, in order of appearance: Downpipe, Catalytic Converter, Resonator:









As for the resonator, If you do not want it any louder than it already is, get as long a resonator as you can (longer than 20"). I took my time reading a lot of posts on the B15 cars with QR25DE engines, most got muffler set ups with 20" resonator and it is loud... but some like it that way ... I don't and since Magnaflow did not make a resonator longer than 18" (in stainless), that was the reason why I installed two 18" resonators one after the other. I don't regret it .

Each of my 18" stainless resonator from Magnaflow was $ 115 US. Labor at the garage here is about $ 60 CDN per hour.

Good luck,


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

uh oh!

just realized all this talk about exhaust has taken us way off-topic from your original posting sorry!


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## thetimster (May 6, 2005)

No need to apologize ValBoo! My bad going there. You're right... it isn't about headers anymore. But I think it is still somewhat related. It seems to be a natural progression after changing the headers, don't you think? And your input is highly appreciated. I see the parts in the pics you posted under my car now... and yes I guess it is subpar to what the guy in the muffler shop is suggesting. 

Hmmm... as to running catless... environment concerns, ValBoo?

Will see if the shop has a longer resonator.. or whether they can fabricate one. Thanks again!

EDIT: And oh yeah... there is still a bit of hissing at 3500RPM and above. But now its all in the back, not underneath the front portion of the car anymore. 

And I think I found the solution to my other problem.. the alternator being too close to the number 1 primary. Here it is... 
http://nissanperformancemag.com/june04/specv/images/alternator_bracket.jpg


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