# 87 300ZX rear hatch is noisy/loose



## slicked25 (Mar 4, 2005)

Every time I hit a bump the rear hatch goes clank. I'll get out slam and go on. It's not perfect but it's a lot worse than if I didn't. 

Do I need new gas struts for the hatch or is it the latch assembly?

I have found out more info. today on this site than the last 4 months. Even though I probably can't fix it least I'll know the solution.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Likely the latch assembly might be a bit loose. I've never had to mess with mine, but I think the rubber stops are adjustable, just like the hood stops are. You might want to try that approach first.


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## andre (Apr 30, 2002)

while on this topic, my hood wont close right. It goes all the way down, but doesn't latch. Could it also be an adjustment issue? I dont remember ever hearing a latch release when I pull it from the inside, but with a little strenth I can just pull it open from the outside. It closes flush, but I wouldn't want it to fly up on the highway. Its not being driven right now though, so its not that serious.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

slicked25 said:


> Every time I hit a bump the rear hatch goes clank. I'll get out slam and go on. It's not perfect but it's a lot worse than if I didn't.
> 
> Do I need new gas struts for the hatch or is it the latch assembly?
> 
> I have found out more info. today on this site than the last 4 months. Even though I probably can't fix it least I'll know the solution.


Look at the bumpstops like Zen said or you might have to lower the locking assembly just a little bit.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

andre said:


> while on this topic, my hood wont close right. It goes all the way down, but doesn't latch. Could it also be an adjustment issue? I dont remember ever hearing a latch release when I pull it from the inside, but with a little strenth I can just pull it open from the outside. It closes flush, but I wouldn't want it to fly up on the highway. Its not being driven right now though, so its not that serious.


If you can pull it open from the outside, that's not good. You might want to bump the latch on the body up a touch, not more than 1/32 of an inch. You should be able to distinctly hear the latch open from inside, or latch from the outside when you close the hood.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

♣Zen31ZR♣ said:


> If you can pull it open from the outside, that's not good. You might want to bump the latch on the body up a touch, not more than 1/32 of an inch. You should be able to distinctly hear the latch open from inside, or latch from the outside when you close the hood.


My latch opens. It won't shut, I'm pretty sure it's shot.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

♣AsleepZ♣ said:


> My latch opens. It won't shut, I'm pretty sure it's shot.


Try soaking it with a bit of WD-40. Generally latches require a little bit of grease every few years to stay working properly and not wear too much. It may just be stiff, the spring on the latch hook can't pull it closed, possibly.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

♣Zen31ZR♣ said:


> Try soaking it with a bit of WD-40. Generally latches require a little bit of grease every few years to stay working properly and not wear too much. It may just be stiff, the spring on the latch hook can't pull it closed, possibly.



Even if I lock it down manually with a screwdriver with the hatch up, I can easily pop it back to the open position.


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## andre (Apr 30, 2002)

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that when I go to work on the z again.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

♣AsleepZ♣ said:


> Even if I lock it down manually with a screwdriver with the hatch up, I can easily pop it back to the open position.


Replacement time, then. There's a lock cam inside there that's probably worn out. It should go one way, but not the other unless the cable pulls a lock pin out of the way. That's how it worked on most of my other cars, anyway. Junkyard is a good place to start.....


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## slicked25 (Mar 4, 2005)

♣AsleepZ♣ said:


> Look at the bumpstops like Zen said or you might have to lower the locking assembly just a little bit.



Thanks man, that made all the difference. The bump stops was the answer to the problem. Not only is it just tight and no noise when hitting bumps but the hatch latch now works from the lever instead of using the key.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

Since there are no Z's around here that are junk I can get a new locking assembly from Nissan for 57 bucks shipped.


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## andre (Apr 30, 2002)

glad i read this....the trunk on my sentra doesn't open with the release inside...and it doesn't close flush on the left side. Guess I'll try to mess with the bumpstops to see if I can get it down.


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## slicked25 (Mar 4, 2005)

♣AsleepZ♣ said:


> Since there are no Z's around here that are junk I can get a new locking assembly from Nissan for 57 bucks shipped.



I thought I fixed my entire hatch problem with the bumper stops. I fixed the noise from the metal to metal but when I press the latch lever walk back open it and close it and the light stays on. Sometimes the latch want even lock. I adjusted the 3 screws leading to the latch assembly. I raised them, lowered, side to side, and finally raising them as high as I could get them.

I used WD 40 all over it and everything looks ok I guess but there's a short in the system somewhere. This all started when I broke my fuel door by pulling on the manual wire to open it. You think Nissan would have recalled this part. 

Do you think the cable assembly will do the trick. It's only $54.11 for the 2seater or buy a latch assembly for $48.13? I bought a Nissan black book on ebay for $5 but never order a part from this book. I can buy a new bumper for $209.00. The one I've got is big time rusted.


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