# Another LSD Conversion Question



## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

What does the 6 bolt or 5 bolt output flanges have to do with a LSD conversion? What does the gear ratio have to do with it too? If I was dropping one of these on an Auto 4 lug 240 without ABS, are there any extra costs or supplies or flanges I might need? Can I use my original Axels? Does anybody have part numbers, my dealership has fools working there so I like to know the part#.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

kellen_wynn said:


> What does the 6 bolt or 5 bolt output flanges have to do with a LSD conversion? What does the gear ratio have to do with it too? If I was dropping one of these on an Auto 4 lug 240 without ABS, are there any extra costs or supplies or flanges I might need? Can I use my original Axels? Does anybody have part numbers, my dealership has fools working there so I like to know the part#.


Okay. Let's start from the beginning.
Swapping a VLSD into your 240SX can be done a number of different ways. There are basically 2 types of R200 VLSD rearends. One has 5 bolt output shafts, and one has 6 bolt output shafts. The 240SX R200 open diff that you're swapping out to install the VLSD has 6 bolt output shafts. 
Here you are faced with 2 options: buy a 5-bolt output shaft R200 VLSD (bad choice), or buy a 6-bolt output shaft VLSD (good choice.) I bought the 6-bolt output shaft VLSD, and it lined up with the driveshaft and the output shafts perfectly. If you buy a 5-bolt output shaft VLSD, you need the 5-bolt output shafts, which will cost you another $200. 
On *BOTH* R200 VLSD's, you need to remove the back cover due to the ABS sensor, and install the smaller back cover from your 240SX open differential. This is the only adjustment that you need to make.
My advice is to do exactly what I did: buy a 6-bolt output shaft R200 VLSD, swap the back covers, change the fluid, drop it in place, and reconnect the driveshaft.

If you need pictures, you shall have pictures.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

This was the most help I have recieved on the subject! Thanks! Pictures would be great! The reason I asked the question because this guy had two S13/S14 VLSD's for sale; one 5 bolt, and the other 6 bolt output shafts both w/o axels. So your saying with a 6 bolt all I need to do is remove my open diff. Take off the back plate put it on the VLSD and just bolt it up to my car. I dont need to buy any other parts besides oil or do I need axels too? Is gear ratio any concern for me?


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

kellen_wynn said:


> This was the most help I have recieved on the subject! Thanks! Pictures would be great! The reason I asked the question because this guy had two S13/S14 VLSD's for sale; one 5 bolt, and the other 6 bolt output shafts both w/o axels. So your saying with a 6 bolt all I need to do is remove my open diff. Take off the back plate put it on the VLSD and just bolt it up to my car. I dont need to buy any other parts besides oil or do I need axels too? Is gear ratio any concern for me?


You don't need to buy the output shafts (axles) if you have buy a 6 bolt output flange VLSD. It will line right up. 
The final drive ratio is wider with the VLSD. This translates, to some extent, to slower acceleration and higher topspeed capability. It widens all the gears. I cannot tell you the driving impression difference, because I swapped VLSD in at the same time as an S14 engine, so I can't tell you how it affected acceleration. Needless to say, with the VLSD, you knock a very significant ammount of time off of your 0-60. 
A guy in my town has an S13 with SR20, and I thought it was mostly stock because he still had open diff. He just ran 11.99 in the quarter with an OPEN DIFF. This past week he swapped in a KAAZ 2-way LSD and some other goodies. Yikes...


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Follow up question, how much is the VLSD? Mine came from a 1995 Infiniti J30, and costed $270 for the unit and $35 to ship to my house. Synthetic LSD fluid was $9 from a local oil manufacturer (my city is home to AMSOIL). I still think that VLSD is the best mod you can do to the 240SX short of engine swaps and turbo. With a manual 240SX, the three best things you can do to revolutionize the feel of driving your car are a racing clutch (Stage I, don't go all out unless you have huge power), short throw, and VLSD. You can do all those for under $500. 
You don't need to do everything from my setup (S14 KA swap, T04E turbo, Supra injetors, Z32 pump, SAFC-II, Z32 MAF) to fall in love with your car again. 
If you really want to go crazy, I'd do the Sumi brakes and the manual conversion.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I dont need the whole differental housing do I? Can I just snatch the VLSD a place it in my open diff?


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## S14240SR (Aug 20, 2004)

bridrive55 said:


> Okay. Let's start from the beginning.
> Swapping a VLSD into your 240SX can be done a number of different ways. There are basically 2 types of R200 VLSD rearends. One has 5 bolt output shafts, and one has 6 bolt output shafts. The 240SX R200 open diff that you're swapping out to install the VLSD has 6 bolt output shafts.
> Here you are faced with 2 options: buy a 5-bolt output shaft R200 VLSD (bad choice), or buy a 6-bolt output shaft VLSD (good choice.) I bought the 6-bolt output shaft VLSD, and it lined up with the driveshaft and the output shafts perfectly. If you buy a 5-bolt output shaft VLSD, you need the 5-bolt output shafts, which will cost you another $200.
> On *BOTH* R200 VLSD's, you need to remove the back cover due to the ABS sensor, and install the smaller back cover from your 240SX open differential. This is the only adjustment that you need to make.
> ...


If im not mistaken,all s14 240sx's that came with ABS(as an option), also automatically came with the lsd?

What is the diff ratio for the j30 lsd?

pics would be nice!


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

The back cover on the S14 Diff house is two bolts, a S13 needs four. So all you need to do is swap the back covers. But my question was: Can you just swap out the internals?


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

kellen_wynn said:


> The back cover on the S14 Diff house is two bolts, a S13 needs four. So all you need to do is swap the back covers. But my question was: Can you just swap out the internals?


Lol, that would be a huge pain in the ass. You would need to replace everything BUT the housing and completely reassemble the differential. It will take hours and not save you money. Just get an R200 VLSD and swap the back covers so that it bolts up. This is the time-tested cheapest and easiest option. Think about it: for $300, you can drop in a mod that will make your car .8 seconds faster in the 1/4, driftable, and fully monstrous in the launch. It's the best mod that you can do for the money, and one of the most drastic improvements to driving impression that money can buy. Good luck...


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

You the man Brid! I'll be dropping in my S14 6 bolt VLSD next weekend or whenever I'm not working the whole week. Then we'll see if its all its cracked up to be. I paid $200 for it which was more than I thought it was worth(prove me wrong, VLSD). Thanks again! :cheers:


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

kellen_wynn said:


> You the man Brid! I'll be dropping in my S14 6 bolt VLSD next weekend or whenever I'm not working the whole week. Then we'll see if its all its cracked up to be. I paid $200 for it which was more than I thought it was worth(prove me wrong, VLSD). Thanks again! :cheers:


You won't be disappointed! Just don't push too much past 300whp.


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## nismoslut (Oct 14, 2004)

bridrive55 said:


> You won't be disappointed! Just don't push too much past 300whp.


why not , jw im doing this as we speak


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

nismoslut said:


> why not , jw im doing this as we speak


I have right around 300hp too, and the VLSD can't take much abuse at this power. It varies from diff to diff, but VLSD's are not known for longevity on high power setups. Drifting is murder on VLSD's, and a lot of 300+hp drifters use helical diffs, or some cheapo's use Phantom Grips. I hate the Phantom Grip, so when I blow my VLSD (which will probably be pretty soon, I'm upgrading to 1000cc injectors this summer) I'm probably going to get a real 2-way helical LSD.


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## Nismo14-180 (Mar 31, 2004)

Would a S15 LSD fit up. I got 1 laying around, just waiting to get money for custom axles.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Finally the Diff has arrived. But, I have some questions before I get started. 

To start I'm going to go to nissan and get a new gasket. And some fluid!

1) The diff was shipped with the back plate off, should I spray out the diff before I install it? I've notice some hard chunks of grime in the housing. 2) I was told this was a VLSD off an S14 yet I see no evidence of the orange sticker. I have a pic. Is it the real deal? 3) The diff came with no output shaft hubs. Can I just take the ones off my Open diff? 

Any recomendations and tips would be helpfull. Which fluids? Who should I take it to if I run into problems? etc.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Here are some pics


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Okay, that's not good. You're going to need to install some output flanges, so get ready to rip apart your open diff to take the flanges out and make the ole switcheroo. The backplate isn't a problem, as you're going to need your 240 backplate anyways. The fluid might also not be a problem. I would flush it out with some gasoline, this will remove the excess residue and gunk. Hook it up with a new gasket, dial in the back cover, and fill it up with differential oil. Any LSD fluid(I just use the hypoid-type fluid) will work.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Can I clean it with break Cleaner or Carb cleaner?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

*URGENT!!!*

I'm getting conflicting information about the side flanges on the differental housing. My boy Brid, your my BOY BRID, says I can take the side flanges from my Open Diff and use them in my VLSD. But another person said the open diff flanges wont lock up with the LSD and will act like a open diff. And I need to find VLSD side flanges.

Is this true or am I safe to use the open diff flanges?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

........................................bump


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## Kouki S14 (Dec 24, 2004)

Unfortunately this is not a helpful reply.
It looks as though you got screwed on this deal. Sorry.
Please post the name of your supplier so we dont use them in the future.
Good luck with your swap, hope everything works out.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Now I'm pissed but I guess it's my fault.

Does anyone know the part # I need?

Its a damn shame none of this stuff came up until "I" decided to do the swap. Nobody mentions this in their install pages. I researched this swap before I bought it and never saw it, maybe because people call it an output shaft when the FSM calls it a side flange. 

Here are some part # but I'm not to sure if this is what I need: LEFT SIDE
382204F01 $285.61,
3822051F01 $181.60
382205201 (HICAS)??
for the right side just change the last digit to 0
Hopefully the ones I need are $181

Thanks for the help.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I think the part # is 3822051F01

STUB SHAFT, 240SX, Right Side, w/o 4WS - MODEL R200V 91-93 
I think the 4WS is the HICAS because part # 3822052F01 is w/ 4WS

http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...1992&catalogid=1&graphicID=E603110&callout=12

Does this look right?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Has anyone heard of just buying one VLSD half shaft and useing the other from an open diff?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

This matter is still unresolved. Any help is appreciated.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

You can use open diff output shafts, just get the 6 bolt output flanges (stub shaft, as you call them) to match. Sorry I didn't see this thread for so long! I can get you the shafts if you need them, buddy.


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## ncal180 (May 17, 2004)

*the days of our lsd's*

i first bought my s13 with a half complete sr20 swap. i fixed a shoddy wiring job and put a cone filter in to fix a maf issue. then i dropped in the lsd that was never installed. it was a 5 bolt type and being lazy, pulled the stub shafts and used the ones from the original open diff. I didn't notice it until i got comfortable with the ride characteristics, but then while taking a sharpish left turn and powering through the turn I got inner wheel spin. THAT'S NOT RIGHT. I ended up buying new axle nuts and replacing the axles with the 5 bolt ones that came with my purchase. That and switching back to 5 bolt stubs.

Later on i got a deal on a bare s15 lsd with stubs. I pulled the diff and disassenbled it, yanked the vlsd and put the ring gear, bearings and spacers on the s15 lsd. A little white grease on the ring gear and free spinning the input shaft showed that the new lsd was in properly. I used the s15 stub shafts but had to switch back to the 6 bolt axles. FYI the s15 lsd has larger 31mm shaft versus the stock (29mm) and vlsd diffs (including J30, Z32 but I'm guessing here based on the write ups on these being swapped directly into the 240sx).

I hope this helps.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

ncal180 said:


> i first bought my s13 with a half complete sr20 swap. i fixed a shoddy wiring job and put a cone filter in to fix a maf issue. then i dropped in the lsd that was never installed. it was a 5 bolt type and being lazy, pulled the stub shafts and used the ones from the original open diff. I didn't notice it until i got comfortable with the ride characteristics, but then while taking a sharpish left turn and powering through the turn I got inner wheel spin. THAT'S NOT RIGHT. I ended up buying new axle nuts and replacing the axles with the 5 bolt ones that came with my purchase. That and switching back to 5 bolt stubs.
> 
> Later on i got a deal on a bare s15 lsd with stubs. I pulled the diff and disassenbled it, yanked the vlsd and put the ring gear, bearings and spacers on the s15 lsd. A little white grease on the ring gear and free spinning the input shaft showed that the new lsd was in properly. I used the s15 stub shafts but had to switch back to the 6 bolt axles. FYI the s15 lsd has larger 31mm shaft versus the stock (29mm) and vlsd diffs (including J30, Z32 but I'm guessing here based on the write ups on these being swapped directly into the 240sx).
> 
> I hope this helps.


The VLSD's can produce inner wheel spin, especially when exiting the turns. Your diff might have been old too. VLSD's are not known for their longevity. Basically the VLSD is a good short-life diff for quick launches, but I would recommend upgrading to helical or hypoid for harder use or bigger power.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

If the open diff half shafts work, why are there different part# ?

Aren't the lengths different? I keep getting conflicting info on putting a open diff half-shafts on a S14 VLSD. This thing is just sitting in my garage taking up space asking, "When the fuck are you going to install me?", I dont know what to tell it. I could always install it anyways and put the correct half-shafts on later.


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## Nismo14-180 (Mar 31, 2004)

Trial and error. Just do it! Noone should be deprived of enjoying thier 240!


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## StillSlow (Sep 1, 2005)

bridrive55 said:


> Follow up question, how much is the VLSD? Mine came from a 1995 Infiniti J30, and costed $270 for the unit and $35 to ship to my house. Synthetic LSD fluid was $9 from a local oil manufacturer (my city is home to AMSOIL). I still think that VLSD is the best mod you can do to the 240SX short of engine swaps and turbo. With a manual 240SX, the three best things you can do to revolutionize the feel of driving your car are a racing clutch (Stage I, don't go all out unless you have huge power), short throw, and VLSD. You can do all those for under $500.
> You don't need to do everything from my setup (S14 KA swap, T04E turbo, Supra injetors, Z32 pump, SAFC-II, Z32 MAF) to fall in love with your car again.
> If you really want to go crazy, I'd do the Sumi brakes and the manual conversion.



Under five hundred? What clutch and where i want that deal. the clutch im looking at is 350 act. and the dif is 325. so if you have a site or something please post it. thanx man


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I finally found somebody who will sell me their output shafts off his VLSD. The guy is replaceing his with a S15 helical LSD and shafts, so I luck out. Thank God!!!


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## Nismo14-180 (Mar 31, 2004)

Cool stuff. Hope it is running again soon.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Nismo14-180 said:


> Cool stuff. Hope it is running again soon.


The car never stopped running. I dont know who thought it wasn't on the road? It was just the fact I had this extra diff taking up space in my garage. Just like my OEM seat and the T25. I also got the S14 diff bushings and bolts, so it should be an easy install now.


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## Nismo14-180 (Mar 31, 2004)

Ohhhhhhhh, I obviously didnt know, I thought you were driving something different while you installed the new diff. My bad.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

*VLSD *JUST* Installed*

Alright I finally installed this SOB. I have yet to really test it out but just from driving around town I noticed this strange noise. The noise starts as I slow down for a stop. I know the diff has been sitting in my garage for a while so it may just need some of the new fluid to lubricate the gears first. But this seems loud and I'm embarrased.
Noise can also be a sign of a bad diff, which I'll be very pissed if that is the case!
I'll give it some time and see how it is.

Any suggestion on how to test if it is not working?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I drove it around some more and to no avail. Its a very loud whining/whistle noise that seems to be coming from the rear passenger side. Nobody stares at me when I come to a stop so I dont know if they can hear it. I'm sure its made louder because of the sound traviling through the drive shaft. I reused the S14 bushing to make it fit on my rear end if that matters any. No drivablity issues, yet!
I wish I could record the sound. Its like, as I slow down(w/ or w/o brakes):

Letting the engine slow the car WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR (brakes applied now) RRRRRRMMMMMMMM ends as car stops.

I know it has something to do with the rear end because It wasn't like that before I had it installed.

What should I do?  I waited all this time to get it installed and now I'm getting this weired noise. If its normal, fine I'll deal with it but it seems too loud for normal.

I might drive it some more and then change the fluid to see if their is any evidence of problems.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Need help on this noise


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

does it come from the rear end or the gearbox?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Joel said:


> does it come from the rear end or the gearbox?


Well before I had the new diff installed it didn't make a noise, now it does. This is very loud when coming to a stop. I could understand that kind of noise if I was running a clutch but Vlsd to? This seems to be more pronouced while going straight, like coming to a stoplight. Less noise, if any at all, at low speeds or turning.

This is a Automatic by the way.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Should I make a new post because of this problem?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I think what I will do when I get home is replace the fluid. Because through searching and asking around it is a good place to start. I also noticed something strange when they filled my fluids. They used a big container with a pump that said Penzoil, I couldn't see anything else, The color of the fluid was a translucent greenish/yellowish color. It smelt like regular gear oil though. I asked the guy (didn't speak much english), "Is that the oil you use for differentials"? He said "Si", so I guess its ok but from my understanding gear oil is similar to tranny oil (reddish in color). Either way, I think the loud humming whine is due to the fact that as I slow to a stop the oils is running to the back leaving my gears dry. I think I'll pick up some 80W-90 and maybe some additive like redline to thicken it up.

Pray for me my children.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

VLSD's make terrible noises when they are low on fluid. A common problem when using used VLSD's is the front oil seal (driveshaft collar mating.) My VLSD also had a bad oil seal, and it leaked most of the differential oil and made awful noises. Check your fluid level with the car supported and level. All three mating oil seals should technically be replaced when you swap in the differential, but as I always said, I'm poor... If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Don't worry about adding redline. 80w90 is the perfect hydrocarbon viscosity when cold and hot. A synthetic 80w90 would be better than organic hydrocarbons, but if your lubricant vendor doesn't speak English, I don't know how much luck you'll have with that.
Well, good luck... It'll probably be a while until I'm online again.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Recent events have lead me to believe that the stub shafts were installed on the wrong side. Is this true?

I witnessed them install the short shaft on the passenger side and they also broke the metal ring at the tip.

This will soon be.................. THE MOST EXPENSIVE VLSD SWAP IN HISTORY!!!!!! :banhump:

Once I get a sucessful install, I will compile the wealth of information and experiences involving this swap. This way, anybody interested in the swap will have things to consider before they start throwing money around. They can ask the right questions and ensure a hassle free install.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

kellen_wynn said:


> Recent events have lead me to believe that the stub shafts were installed on the wrong side. Is this true?
> 
> I witnessed them install the short shaft on the passenger side and they also broke the metal ring at the tip.
> 
> ...



I'm on your side. I also swapped in a VLSD that was in shitty shape. It had a blown front seal. Also came with no collar. Waste of $300.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I think the internals were removed and when put back, the backlash was not set. I'm exhausted with this project. I'm just going to cut my losses, sell the damn thing, and put the money towards another unit. And yes, I know the money I spent equates to a CLSD but I only need a VLSD. The car is only sporty on ocassion.

Special thanks to Bridrive55


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Here is something new. 
When I reinstalled my open diff I noticed my (passenger) R.rear tire still did not spin freely. It would spin and then get stuck on something. I would then have to push harder to get it to spin up until a certain point then it would stick again. The L.Rear spun fine. I can still hear a much lower noise even with my old diff on. Could this mean the problem may be something else? Like a wheel bearing or something? The noise could be something rubbing at high speed.


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## Nismo14-180 (Mar 31, 2004)

Ive seen that problem on a ex-coworkers Mustang GT. He swapped to a shorter gear pinoin, but he put the bearings in backwards so the diff was whining and working inpropery. the left and right bearings were on opposite sides, they had different clearances. he swapped em around and the problem went away. Maybe thats your problem?


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

I finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally, finally successfully installed a working VLSD! Rejoice my children!

After almost a year of bullshit, 2 other LSDs, and whole lot of headache....... it is done. I bought another VLSD from a eBay JDM dealer. 6-bolt ABS VLSD from a S13. This time the only thing that gave me shit was the bolts for the driveshaft. The were seized on so I had to use a dremel to saw them off. They then popped right off. Everything bolted right up and my drive shaft just needed to be pushed back a little. 

For anyone who is not an idiot or unlucky like me, this is worth the effort. It feels as if someone is pushing your car from behind, especially making turns, like "hugging" the road. I did a little "drifting" and it seems to give you more control. I did a little 360ish in my apartment culdasac with much ease and complete control, with my open diff I would have had to reduce speed or I would have ended up in somebodies living room.

For anyone considering a LSD or had one failed VLSD install. Stop right there! Do not spend anymore money on getting a VLSD. For the money I spent on getting a VLSD, I could have had a 2-way CLSD. But a CLSD doesn't meet my needs or vehicle goals.

In short, information and preparedness are paramount. Having the right tools and asking the right questions makes life easier. 

So here are some things to consider: (Some of this is non-specific)

Was the unit making any noises? 
Was it ever disassembled? 
Any leaks? 
Does it come with all the extras (bolt, shafts, etc..)? 
Where did it come from (Make model Year mileage)? 
Is it a direct fit? 
Do I need special tools or what specific tools do I need?
What do I need if something goes wrong?
Can I do this alone (I do everything by myself so it takes twice the time)?
-Look up all the info on the install you can get-

Let me know if I missed anything. Thank god its finally over with.

Special shout out Bridrive55.


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## kellen_wynn (Jul 25, 2004)

Gear ratio or FD ratio is another question you should ask.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

CONGRATS! I'm so glad you finally got it in! I was worried that you had given up. There are always problems with used parts. My diff still has a leaky front seal. 
Agree with the info 100%. Enjoy your diff, you've earned it!


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## Whitie_bear (Jul 10, 2007)

OK I AM DAMN CONFUSED....i have a r200 diff with a KAAZ 1.5 way center, the issue i have is it comes with 5 bolt flanges (output shafts, halfshafts, axle stubs whatever you want to call em)....I currently have a WELDED open diff on my 180sx with 6 bolt flanges

NOW WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS THIS!!!!

can i take my 6 bolt flanged halfshafts/axlestubs/output shafts out of my welded open diff, and stick them in my KAAZ LSD? (i would have to remove the 5 bolt outputs from my kaaz of course)

so long story short, will 6 bolt halfshafts/axlestubs/output shafts fit into a differential that is using 5 bolt output shafts .... i.e. can i dissasemble the two lsd's and swap their half shafts

or are the half shafts different diameters/spline patterns and totally not interchangable?

i have access to my two sets of halfshafts, one six and one 5 bolt.....i however have 6 bolt axles to mate up to my 6 bolt halfshafts....so if i have to use the halfshafts that come with the lsd then i guess ill have to get some 5 bolt axles off a j30 or something?


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## Whitie_bear (Jul 10, 2007)

also, does anyone know if i get a 93 j30 axle set for the rear....if it matters if the j30 axle came out of a automatic trans?

do manual and automatic differ in axle sizes?


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## Whitie_bear (Jul 10, 2007)

any one cmon now

bump


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## Whitie_bear (Jul 10, 2007)

well i guess i have two r200's the one i was going to install and the old one....the old one i thought was a open diff stock r180, but its a r200 housing with a old nismo lsd, when i say old i mean burnt out 

one with 5 bolt flanges (the new diff) and one with 6 bolt flanges old diff with nismo center

so i pulled out the half shafts from the diff, and on the nismo (old one) the left side was longer then the right...with the new one they were both the same length

luckily my shafts fit into the other centers, but im going to have to machine my 6 bolt flanged half shafts so there the same length as the 5 bolts

oh and im reusing my old r200 diff case because its a abs model and the new diff case i got is a non abs, so i would need a longer driveshaft to swap to it

has anyone ever modded or machined their halfshafts to fit?


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## robt809 (Jan 22, 2010)

wow this is a very old thread
just want to add to it


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## robt809 (Jan 22, 2010)

i have a new cusco 2way lsd for my s15 
my s15 has ABS,
the cusco diff has no ABS,
when we fitted the diff the drive shaft was short by around 3/4" about 20mm or so
i wonder if we changed the diff cover would that fill in the gap????
anyone please help us out thanks


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