# 1997 pathfinder timing belt help??



## GreenDragon (Apr 11, 2011)

Could anyone advise me as to what to look for in determining if I need to change the timing belt. I have owned and cared for this truck for 6 months. Spent lots on it so far and have no idea if/when the belt was done. I know it's catastrophic if it breaks but...
It has 276000 on it and runs great. Any advice, input...anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Anson.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If the engine is a VG30E, the timing belt needs to be replaced every 105,000 MI. If you have no record of when it was replaced previously, replace it now.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

97 would be a VG33E, but the same. It's a 105,000 miles timing belt; if the mileage isn't met, I would recommend replacing it every 6 years. Timing belts often don't give any warnings before they fail. The VG33E is supposed to be a non-interferance engine, but still, why chance breaking down? If the history is not known and with that kind of mileage, I would replace it and the tensioner pulley. I'd also consider the replacement of the front crank and cam seals, water pump and drive belts, or at least give a careful inspection of those componants, keeping in mind they will have to last another 105,000 miles/6 years.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

smj999smj said:


> 97 would be a VG33E, but the same. It's a 105,000 miles timing belt; if the mileage isn't met, I would recommend replacing it every 6 years. Timing belts often don't give any warnings before they fail. The VG33E is supposed to be a non-interferance engine, but still, why chance breaking down? If the history is not known and with that kind of mileage, I would replace it and the tensioner pulley. I'd also consider the replacement of the front crank and cam seals, water pump and drive belts, or at least give a careful inspection of those componants, keeping in mind they will have to last another 105,000 miles/6 years.


AFAIK the VG33E is definitely an interference engine.


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## GreenDragon (Apr 11, 2011)

Thank you so much for the input!! I have spent lots of $ on this truck so far taking care of it and extra goodies and would hate for all this to be destroyed by an extremely expensive and preventable reason. It's been stressful for me waiting for the next paycheck thinking at any moment it could break and destroy it and my bank account! I am going to get it done with the water pump when I get paid but thanks for allowing me some breathing room. Joining this forum was the smartest thing I've done for a while...Anson (It is a VG33E by the way)


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

GreenDragon said:


> Thank you so much for the input!! I have spent lots of $ on this truck so far taking care of it and extra goodies and would hate for all this to be destroyed by an extremely expensive and preventable reason. It's been stressful for me waiting for the next paycheck thinking at any moment it could break and destroy it and my bank account! I am going to get it done with the water pump when I get paid but thanks for allowing me some breathing room. Joining this forum was the smartest thing I've done for a while...Anson (It is a VG33E by the way)


Don't fret...just get it done when you can. I just checked ...and did mine the first time after 103K miles...which took me 9 years to accumulate.


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## blaklazer (May 23, 2008)

The 33 is not a interference. If it was i would have had to have rebuilt two heads after my t-belt was off by three teeth last time i did the water pump. Oh, and when you do the t-stat only use loctite ultra grey. It's the only sealer that works! (the t-stat has no rubber gasket). Other than that have fun. Took me 6-8 hours the first time. Got it down to two on the second go around.


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## GreenDragon (Apr 11, 2011)

Thanks so much to everyone for their help! I had it done today (pump and belt) for $600. I trust your opinions on this more than anyone else and cannot believe that out of everyone I asked (lots!!) the answer was almost 50/50. Even Nissan Canada said it WAS an interference engine. Well it's done now and will sleep better tonight. Thanks again for everyones help.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

It might be one of those "non-interference"-interference engines like the Dodge 2.0/2.4. The valves normally WON'T hit a piston if the timing belt breaks, but if belt actually does break in the perfect position, intake and exhaust valves will hit each other, not the pistons hitting the valves.
Either way, I call that interference...


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

blaklazer said:


> The 33 is not a interference. If it was i would have had to have rebuilt two heads after my t-belt was off by three teeth last time i did the water pump. Oh, and when you do the t-stat only use loctite ultra grey. It's the only sealer that works! (the t-stat has no rubber gasket). Other than that have fun. Took me 6-8 hours the first time. Got it down to two on the second go around.


I myself do not know whether the VG33E is or is not an interference engine. Do you have any definitive references to support your statement that it is?? The reason I ask...is that if one googles the question...there are many references to the VG33E being an interference engine and some references that it is not...and a number of debates about the point..but the former outnumber the latter by a fairly wide margin. I'm mostly just wanting to know for my own intellectual curiousity. Thanks.


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## GreenDragon (Apr 11, 2011)

That's really funny, it's for that exact reason I decided to do it now rather than later. I weighed the amount of google "yes" VS "no" and came to my decision. Unfortunately I guess the only way to really know is to hear from someone who has broken a timing belt. Either way, my bank account doesn't like me much but I'm sure my truck does! Anson


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

3.3L 2003 engine interferance? (broken Tbelt) - NPORA Forums


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I guess the bottom line is, interferance or not, why take chances? Even if it's not interferance, we all know that when it breaks, it's probably going to do it at the worst possible moment!


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## blackpathy (Aug 10, 2013)

I'm replacing my water pump and timing belt now. I have everything taken apart and all of the bolts are out of the pump, yet I haven't removed the old timing belt yet. I have both of my marks lined up perfectly on each camshaft pulley and I feel like the new one should just go into place perfectly, but I don't know if I should just do it and "see if it works" until I get some more advice. I'm no newbie to engines, though my 97 has overhead cams and I'm not interested in doing this job over. The timing belt was changed around 60k ago and I know it's not due yet, but I already have to take it off so why not swap it? So anyway, if my marks on the cams are lined up perfectly, should I just loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off and install the new one and call it good? Thanks for any advice!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

With 60,000 miles on it, I would also replace the timing belt while replacing the water pump. The new timing belt will have marks on it which will line up with the timing marks on the cam sprockets and crank sprocket, as well as an arrow which should point to the front of the vehicle when installed. If it's a genuine Nissan belt, one line will be dashed that lines up with the right bank crank sprocket (which will be on the left if you are looking at the engine from the front). The solid lines will match with the remaining cam and crank sprockets. Loosen the tensioner nut (14MM), use a 5MM allen wrench to turn the tensioner and create slack in the belt, and tighten the nut to hold the tensioner in place. R&R the timing belt and loosen the tensioner nut, which will cause the spring to take up the slack. Turn the right bank cam sprocket about one or two teeth counter-clockwise, which will allow the tensioner to take up the remaining slack. Tighten the nut. Turn the right bank cam sprocket a couple of teeth clockwise. Place your thumb and forefinger on the belt between the two cam sprockets and twist. If the belt is properly tensioned, you will be able to twist the belt 90 degrees. Adjust it too tight, it the engine will make a whining noise.


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## blackpathy (Aug 10, 2013)

smj999smj said:


> With 60,000 miles on it, I would also replace the timing belt while replacing the water pump. The new timing belt will have marks on it which will line up with the timing marks on the cam sprockets and crank sprocket, as well as an arrow which should point to the front of the vehicle when installed. If it's a genuine Nissan belt, one line will be dashed that lines up with the right bank crank sprocket (which will be on the left if you are looking at the engine from the front). The solid lines will match with the remaining cam and crank sprockets. Loosen the tensioner nut (14MM), use a 5MM allen wrench to turn the tensioner and create slack in the belt, and tighten the nut to hold the tensioner in place. R&R the timing belt and loosen the tensioner nut, which will cause the spring to take up the slack. Turn the right bank cam sprocket about one or two teeth counter-clockwise, which will allow the tensioner to take up the remaining slack. Tighten the nut. Turn the right bank cam sprocket a couple of teeth clockwise. Place your thumb and forefinger on the belt between the two cam sprockets and twist. If the belt is properly tensioned, you will be able to twist the belt 90 degrees. Adjust it too tight, it the engine will make a whining noise.


Thanks a lot for your reply! I appreciate it. I have it all assembled and notice a squealing sound being made by the crank pulley plate. I removed the crank pulley plate and reinstalled the crank pulley to see if I had a bad pulley and there is no noise without the thin plate in place. Is this plate important? Could I go without it? I have inspected the plate and it isn't bent, worn or warped. The crank pulley also looks perfect. And while running the crank pulley doesn't wobble at all.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

blackpathy said:


> Thanks a lot for your reply! I appreciate it. I have it all assembled and notice a squealing sound being made by the crank pulley plate. I removed the crank pulley plate and reinstalled the crank pulley to see if I had a bad pulley and there is no noise without the thin plate in place. Is this plate important? Could I go without it? I have inspected the plate and it isn't bent, worn or warped. The crank pulley also looks perfect. And while running the crank pulley doesn't wobble at all.


The plate acts as a dust shield. Without the plate dirt would be introduced into the timing belt enclosure; this would shorten the belt life. You may have installed the plate backwards; the lip edge should be facing out.


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## blackpathy (Aug 10, 2013)

Okay I'm going to give it a look! I inspected it before install and you can see the wear from the splines on one side of the plate. So that is the side that I installed inward. But I'm going to remove it again and see if there is a lip on it. I don't remember seeing one.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's more than just a dust plate; it's a guide plate used to keep the timing belt on the crank sprocket.


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