# Oil Pan Removal 4WD



## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Originally posted this to the 4X4 group, but didn't get a reply. Guess I messed up and should've posted it here. Ooops.

Been thinking about tackling the whole timing chain fix, but am a little leary of the oil pan removal. Am I correct in hearing that the front differential has to be removed? Also read somewhere that the engine and transmission have to be separated? Is that right? ('97 XE, 4WD, 4 cylinder, manual). 

Any suggestions or opinions?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you should post this up on Nissan4wheelers.Com - Nissan 4x4 Enthusiasts


it is a very cool site and there are a lot more 4x4 enthusiast over there..


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## NPath (Dec 12, 2004)

Grug said:


> Originally posted this to the 4X4 group, but didn't get a reply. Guess I messed up and should've posted it here. Ooops.
> 
> Been thinking about tackling the whole timing chain fix, but am a little leary of the oil pan removal. Am I correct in hearing that the front differential has to be removed? Also read somewhere that the engine and transmission have to be separated? Is that right? ('97 XE, 4WD, 4 cylinder, manual).
> 
> Any suggestions or opinions?


How bout jacking the front end up and placing both stands on both sides of the FRAME? 

To do a timing chain replacement, I can't see why you'd have to disconnect the tranny from the engine. All I can see is taking apart most of the front end
along with the radiator and quite possibly, the grill, for added work space.

BTW, what's wrong with the timing chain? They're suppose to last the life of the engine.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, when I say change the chain I guess I meant the whole timing chain assembly (in my case the guides and tensioner). 

And, I will try to post this question to the forum you suggested Zane.

I'm trying to collect as much information as possible before I consider attempting this project myself. All the local mechanics I contacted quoted me between 9-12 hours labor (including Nissan). At $80.00 an hour for their services...I think I might try it myself!


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

better at batin than math but that looks like 1000 dollars to me...ouch...


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Probably easily a thousand bucks time you factor in parts, labor, oil, antifreeze, gaskets and gasket sealant, taxes...yada, yada, yada!

So, you can see why I'm thinking about setting aside a week next summer and tackling the job myself.

Hey Zane...why don't you take a trip to the lovely coastal province of Nova Scotia next summer and drop in for a few days to give me a hand. Lottsa' good free Canadian beer on hand! : )


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

down in mexico they tried to sell the cheverlet version of a toyota..

they called it the nova...but in mex nova means no go..

they just couldn't get the mexicans to buy a car called no go...

zane grey no go scotia ..


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hmmm, can't understand why a fella' wouldn't buy a car called a 'no go'. A buddy of mine used to drive a Skoda (Czechoslovakian car I think). Now that was a no go!

Oh well...just means more beer for me. : )


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

To answer your question no the front axle does not have to be removed. I did just to check the oil pan and ended up removing timing guides from the bottom of the pan. If your guides are still in place you can remove the front bolts holding the oil pan to the front cover and gently remove front cover. Be careful because the head gasket is on top of the front cover.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey there, White Toy. So you did end up removing the front differential, but it was to check the pan...not to service the timing chain.

So what about unbolting the engine mounts and jacking up the engine to allow the pan to slide off? Did you have to do that? My Haynes manual says the engine mounts have to be unbolted and to wedge in a piece of wood or something after the engine has been lifted slightly.

My problem is I don't have a hoist. I just have jack stands and jacks. 

Finally, for me this is gonna' be a driveway job. Think it's do-able in the driveway? Just curious.


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

I don't have a garage to work in either. I use plywood on top of gravel. Didn't one time and felt like an 80 year old for 3 days and bruises everywhere. I used an engine hoist to lift the engine. The engine must be lifted to get diff out or all front suspension removed which is a major pain. you might could use the jack and wood but i don't know if you would have enough room to wiggle front diff out. So you decided to remove oil pan? Surely someone close by will loan you a lift. You could always run by harbor freight or northern tool to get a lift for cheap if funds are available.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I'm pretty sure I've got to change the guides / tensioner. While I'm at it, I figured I'd check the oil pan / gasket for leaks as there seems to be a tiny bit of oil weeping down the pan and dripping off the oil change bolt. Hard to tell exactly where it's coming from, but I don't think it's the oil pressure switch. It's a small enough leak that a fella' could simply live with it...but it bugs me.

Am considering tackling the whole tensioner project myself, but this oil pan removal (to allow for removal of the timing cover) seems to be a major project itself!

So just how heavy is the differential unit once it's finally unbolted and clear? Is it gonna' squash me?


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

The front diff is prob at least 100 lbs. It will hurt if it drops down on you. I put a floor jack under it and was going to just lower it down but i had to lower the back half almost verticle for it to come out of the front. I also removed the passenger side torsion bar to make it easier. I have an oil leak now from the rear main seal but waiting on the clutch to go to fix it. Wash everything off and keep a close eye on the engine to see where the leak is coming from.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

When you say a lift or engine hoist, are you referring to a big four wheel heavy steel beast with chain jacks (that kinda' set up)? I suppose I might be able to rent one, but not sure how I'd get it home...my truck will be laid up. : )

How about this? I jack the engine up slightly where the engine and tranny are mated (after unbolting the engine mounts of course). Suppose this would work and give me the clearance I need?


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

Yes im talking about the 4 wheeled lift with a chain that connects to slingers on engine. You can try using a jack it should work but i always use a hoist just cause i have more room under the vehicle to work. Follow the Haynes manual you have and should be good. Do you have another jack for the front diff?


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Yes, I do have two jacks and would invest in another (considering the cash I'd save in labour to have this whole thing done). The local hardware chain has a loan a tool program too so I might even be able to get a lend of a few of their items. I know they have pullers and large sockets. Once borrowed a flaring tool to make brake lines.

The tensioner / guides job I think is within my means, but this front differential removal and then raising the motor to get the pan off has me a little worried. Gonna' do some more research and try to figure whether or not it's something I should tackle.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey there, Whitetoy. Dowloaded a factory service manual for my '97 4WD XE and it doesn't say anything about removing the differential to get the oil pan off. It says to remove the stabilizer bar, lift the engine and pull the oil pan out from the front. Could it be possible that it's that easy?? Wowsers...I sure hope it's right!

What year is your truck? Maybe something changed in '97?


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

My truck is a 92. The part of the pan toward the rear where your drain plug is hangs down so much I don't see how you could do it but i maybe wrong. The pan hugs the front diff. You also have to think about the room you will need when you seal the pan and bolt it back on without smearing the sealer. Our oil pan design is the same.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Yeah, that manual has to be wrong. I took a quick peek underneath the truck today and there's no way simply removing the stabilizer bar and lifting the engine is gonna' get it done. The part of the pan that hangs like a saddlebag is behind the differential (like you said). If it was in front of the differential then maybe. What a fella' needs to do is invent a two piece oil pan for the 4WD. The lower part of the saddlebag could unbolt and then you could slide the upper part out. 

Oh well, knew it was too good to be true.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

why again are you removing the oil pan..

i have yet to see and oil pan leak on one of these trucks.

it is usually the valve cover or some other source that leaks..

if it is just a timing chain , the oil pan does not need to be removed..


if the oil pan is definately leaking maybe it is easier to just pull the engine..

that is just a thought ..


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I figured if the guides have gone to pieces then I might have their leftovers floatin' around in the bottom of the sump. I remember a post awhile back where a fella' found a bunch of wreckage in his oil pan and it turned out to be the remains of his guides (he even included pictures if I remember correctly). 

I can't say exactly where the oil leak is coming from...yet. Was kinda' hoping it was the sender (which it may yet turn out to be).

The thought of pulling the engine kinda' scares me. Sounds like it might be beyond my mechanical abilities (I also don't think I have access to the proper gear or work space).


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

as you do the timing chain you can see in the front of the oil pan coz the t-cover is removed..

you will know right away if the guides are damged..

and they do not float...


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## white toy (Feb 5, 2009)

A few words of wisdom from my short time, compared to others, about working on vehicles and equipment in general. Always start with the simple basic thing that could be the problem because the problem usually is simple we just make it hard.


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## NPath (Dec 12, 2004)

Grug said:


> Yeah, that manual has to be wrong. I took a quick peek underneath the truck today and there's no way simply removing the stabilizer bar and lifting the engine is gonna' get it done. The part of the pan that hangs like a saddlebag is behind the differential (like you said). If it was in front of the differential then maybe. What a fella' needs to do is invent a two piece oil pan for the 4WD. The lower part of the saddlebag could unbolt and then you could slide the upper part out.
> 
> Oh well, knew it was too good to be true.


Why can't you lift the truck up and place the front frame on stands with the front suspension hanging? 

Is the design really that flawed? Lemme guess, they designed it a way so it'd make life difficult for the backyard mechanic and make you consider the dealership?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

he says in a previous post he could ..he is just trying to get the info up front..


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