# manuel with spec v



## no1d (Apr 12, 2003)

i just got a 03 spec v and before this car i've only had a little experience with stick... but everything is going pretty smooth, stalled a few times of course, but now my shifting is getting really smooth , just wondering what things/tips i should do or not do when shifting/driving... and also.. when im driving at like 60-80 in 3rd or 4th when it comes time to stop at a light or a stop sign, i well usually throw it into neutral, so that i dont have to hold the clutch in or downshift a whole bunch of times, then when im about 30-40km i'll shift outta neutral into 2nd if i wanna still keep going or just come to complete stop, my question is, is doing this bad in anyway? should i just downshift from 4th to 3rd then 2nd/1st? or is the neutral method just fine? anything else i should look out for? thanks guys


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## theimportscene (Jan 29, 2003)

if you downshift, you really eat up ur clutch.... i never have done it... it makes your brakes last longer cuz you use engine braking...
what i do everytime i do slow down and take off around 30/40 or whatever is i blip the throttle so the rpms are around 2K-3K..... smoothes out the shit.... if you pull it off, you wont spill that mcdonalds coffee on your lap... 
also, when sitting at a light, and if im not the first person at the light, i leave it in neutral and foot off the clutch, keeps your clutch cable and throwout bearing lasting a lil bit longer.... kinda makes up for the clutch drops your buddies might do on your car....
these are what i believe tips that'll make your clutch last long... the rest is upto you....


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

if you know how to downshift it doesn't eat up your clutch. I've got almost 30k on stock clutch, downshifted since day one, and even mods, and the clutch grabs like new.

and, just throwing it in neutral is bad.....if you get in a situation when you really need to stop, you need that engine braking to help you out, because in neutral it takes a lot more brake force to stop...........not cool



there is wayyy too much misinforming going on in this forum, people need to know what they're talking about before they post stuff.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

theimportscene said:


> *if you downshift, you really eat up ur clutch.... i never have done it... it makes your brakes last longer cuz you use engine braking...
> what i do everytime i do slow down and take off around 30/40 or whatever is i blip the throttle so the rpms are around 2K-3K..... smoothes out the shit.... if you pull it off, you wont spill that mcdonalds coffee on your lap...
> also, when sitting at a light, and if im not the first person at the light, i leave it in neutral and foot off the clutch, keeps your clutch cable and throwout bearing lasting a lil bit longer.... kinda makes up for the clutch drops your buddies might do on your car....
> these are what i believe tips that'll make your clutch last long... the rest is upto you.... *


^ thats what I do ^


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

chimmike said:


> *if you know how to downshift it doesn't eat up your clutch. I've got almost 30k on stock clutch, downshifted since day one, and even mods, and the clutch grabs like new.
> 
> and, just throwing it in neutral is bad.....if you get in a situation when you really need to stop, you need that engine braking to help you out, because in neutral it takes a lot more brake force to stop...........not cool
> 
> ...


You're right, if you know how to downshift then it doesn't eat up your clutch any more than normal, but it does put unnecessary wear on your synchro's.

If you really need to stop, then how is having the engine braking as well going to help you stop faster? The stock brakes can lock up the tires pretty easily, once you hit that point the engine braking becomes obsolete, and if you don't hit the clutch then your car will stall as well. On a car with weak brakes I could understand, but the sentras (especially the se/se-r) have strong brakes, they don't need any help from the engine to slow down the car. I remember the first time I hit the brakes in my car, I almost sent myself and my dad through the windshield, it took a couple days to get used to the very sensitive and powerful brakes it has stock.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

it's not so much that the brakes are strong, its just that if you throw it in neutral and you have to stop immediately, your brakes are gonna lock, and you're gonna skid, and not stop in time.

I've done comparisons between downshifting stop distances and neutral stop distances. It was really hard not to lock up the brakes and stop immediately.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

How would it be any harder to lock up the tires with the car in gear?


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

Hey dude, downshifting really helps especially with engines with higher rpms. But you can do it in this one too. Say, you are coming down a freeway ramp and of course traffic bunches up. If you know your gear limits, you can throw it in the appropriate gear and stop quicker and save your brakes. Just, hope that the person in back of you is paying attention. Isn't that one of the many advantages of using a manual shift? I heard that that cleans something in your engine too, when you downshift. Anybody have any facts to back that up?


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## BlackSpec02 (Apr 12, 2003)

I shift to neutral.... always have... never had a problem.. i even did this on my old nissan pick up, it's a 1987 and STILL HAS THE ORIGINIAL CLUTCH.... and im the original owner, so i know


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

How many miles do you have on that '87 ? Doesn't the clutch wear out at around 70k miles?


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Aggdaddy said:


> *How many miles do you have on that '87 ? Doesn't the clutch wear out at around 70k miles? *


depends on if you downshift or not 

j/k, it really depends on how you drive, if you are only on the highway ever then the clutch will last hundreds of thousands of miles. If you "live your life a 1/4 mile at a time" it might go out after 25k miles.


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

So if I could learn how to shift without using the clutch, would that allow my clutch to last longer too?
I have tried it a few times, but it felt kinda funny shifting like that, and I never quite got the "knack" of it.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Aggdaddy said:


> *So if I could learn how to shift without using the clutch, would that allow my clutch to last longer too?
> I have tried it a few times, but it felt kinda funny shifting like that, and I never quite got the "knack" of it. *


yes, but your tranmission and synchro's would never forgive you


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

Aggdaddy said:


> *So if I could learn how to shift without using the clutch, would that allow my clutch to last longer too?
> I have tried it a few times, but it felt kinda funny shifting like that, and I never quite got the "knack" of it. *


how much money do you have saved up for a new tranny?

There's a reason you have a clutch, and it is so that you can SHIFT WITH IT.


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

Well, my father drives a semi, and has been shifting like that for years. I thought that you could do the same with regulars cars. I also saw in the Road and Track mag in the back where they give you a listing of new sports cars and specs, that they do their testing of speed runs by drop clutch starts and lift throttle shifts. That's what a professional driver does right? They use the clutch for first and just lift the throttle for the next shifts. 
Any pro racer or drivers here have any knowledge on that?


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## UpChuck (Jul 20, 2002)

I had a 93 Sentra XE that I was given when I was 15 (97) that had about 95K miles. When I got rid of the car it had 169K miles with the origional clutch. 
*My dad bought the car in 94 as a daily driver. Neither one of us replaced the clutch. So unless it was replaced within the first year, it was origional.* 
While I didnt "live my life a 1/4 mile at a time", i wasnt exactly easy on the car either. (after all it was my first car) But I always downshifted, never had any problems at all. Actually other than regular mantinence, the alternator was the only thing I had to replace/fix. Well, I forgot about the clutch cable. That broke too. I dont like shifting without a clutch. Luckily the dealership is only 10 miles from my house. And its all pretty much highway.


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## 88 Pulsar SE (Mar 25, 2003)

Aggdaddy said:


> *Well, my father drives a semi, and has been shifting like that for years. I thought that you could do the same with regulars cars. I also saw in the Road and Track mag in the back where they give you a listing of new sports cars and specs, that they do their testing of speed runs by drop clutch starts and lift throttle shifts. That's what a professional driver does right? They use the clutch for first and just lift the throttle for the next shifts.
> Any pro racer or drivers here have any knowledge on that? *


 The semi trans is much different than the ones in cars. Road and track and professional racers don't care much about abuse or durability, they are looking for the best times period. Trust me on this one, your trans will not take much of that kind of abuse........But if you get the new straight-cut gearset the someone (I forgot who) on the boards has installed you can do the no clutch shifts, because the gears were made to take it. Anyway use the clutch however you like! Cause it it your car.
Peace


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

88 Pulsar SE said:


> *The semi trans is much different than the ones in cars. Road and track and professional racers don't care much about abuse or durability, they are looking for the best times period. Trust me on this one, your trans will not take much of that kind of abuse........But if you get the new straight-cut gearset the someone (I forgot who) on the boards has installed you can do the no clutch shifts, because the gears were made to take it. Anyway use the clutch however you like! Cause it it your car.
> Peace *


Nahh, that's cool. I just needed to know the difference between the two methods of shifting. I'm just curious like that. Thanks for all the info guys.

Rock on, Rock hard and speed the f**k up!


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## FletchSpecV (Nov 26, 2002)

Aggdaddy said:


> *Well, my father drives a semi, and has been shifting like that for years. I thought that you could do the same with regulars cars. I also saw in the Road and Track mag in the back where they give you a listing of new sports cars and specs, that they do their testing of speed runs by drop clutch starts and lift throttle shifts. That's what a professional driver does right? They use the clutch for first and just lift the throttle for the next shifts.
> Any pro racer or drivers here have any knowledge on that? *


I believe that if you have a close throw shift kit you can power shift like that, without the clutch but almost all normal, factory cars that I'm aware of have the clutch for a reason. I'd use it. As for shifting into neutral when approaching a light, I do it all the time and gently depress the brakes. If you aren't flying to the light then you shouldn't have trouble stopping. I do downshift to slow myself down for turns sometimes. That way you are already in the right gear to pull out of the turn without having to shift again. You just need to learn where your RPM's will be in each gear at a given speed and you can figure out which one to shift into to slow you down for a turn.


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## BlackSpec02 (Apr 12, 2003)

My old 87 pickup has about 133k on it... selling it very soon... dont need it anymore. Its been a great truck. (in reply to the question asked about a million posts ago on this thread)


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## Guest (Apr 17, 2003)

*It's All in the Feeling*

Since day one, I've used engine/pedal braking. It's more of a feeling you get after doing it enough times. I had a '98 Sentra GXE for 4 years before my Spec-V, and always did that; never had to replace the clutch.

If you know your car well enough, you will create a balance of using the clutch and pedal for braking, though I use clutch braking more on highways when the higher speeds and asshole drivers create more potential short-distance braking problems.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

If you know how to _double clutch downshift_ you will save your clutch _and_ your synchros. 

Anyway, what oil do you run in your 6-speed transmissions? My manual calls for 75W85 ... which I don’t believe even exists. 

I’m planning on running a mixture of Red Line MTL (70W80) and Red Line MT-90 (75W90) in mine. My 6-speed shifts like crap (graunch!) on cold mornings and I am probably going to get rid of the factory oil around Thanksgiving time (before winter sets in again).

I started a thread to discuss this special application here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=000278

But I have no 100% solution ... yet.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Bror Jace said:


> *I’m planning on running a mixture of Red Line MTL (70W80) and Red Line MT-90 (75W90) in mine.*


That's what a lot of people with spec-v's do, and they claim that it works great. The weird thing is that in some of the spec-v manuals it calls for 75W90 while in others it calls for 75W85. No one's really sure why, but if yours calls for the 85 then I would go for the mixture. I'm personally just going with RedLine MT-90 in my SE, but that's because mine calls for 75W90


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## Guest (Apr 27, 2003)

The transmission was not designed to do the braking... use the brakes, they were designed for that...



no1d said:


> *i just got a 03 spec v and before this car i've only had a little experience with stick... but everything is going pretty smooth, stalled a few times of course, but now my shifting is getting really smooth , just wondering what things/tips i should do or not do when shifting/driving... and also.. when im driving at like 60-80 in 3rd or 4th when it comes time to stop at a light or a stop sign, i well usually throw it into neutral, so that i dont have to hold the clutch in or downshift a whole bunch of times, then when im about 30-40km i'll shift outta neutral into 2nd if i wanna still keep going or just come to complete stop, my question is, is doing this bad in anyway? should i just downshift from 4th to 3rd then 2nd/1st? or is the neutral method just fine? anything else i should look out for? thanks guys *


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## muphasta (Aug 12, 2002)

my chevy s-10 clutch lasted over 144k miles.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

*Re: Re: manuel with spec v*



bgriffey said:


> *The transmission was not designed to do the braking... use the brakes, they were designed for that... *


the tranny doesn't do any braking. The engine does.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

In order to keep your revs up around a race track, you'll need tio be able to double-clutch going into a turn. Difficult to do properly. I started in '87 or '88. I got good with it several years later (wan't trying too hard to be competitive).

The clutch in my '90 Integra last past 190,000 miles.

The clutch in my '95 Civic lasted over 132,000 miles.

Both cars shifted really well (no serious synchro wear.  last I knew.

Both cars had most of the miles put on by me ... and I used Red Line MTL in both. So, for my 6-speed, I think I'll use Red Line MTL & MT90 ... a mixture 'cause I want better cold-weather shifting than I have right now.


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## cademetz (Apr 29, 2003)

We could also all learn to double clutch... and doing it right means little to no wear on synchros, gears or the clutch... but what do I know... I'm only a 22 year old who's been double clutching for 6 years. ;-)


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## 88 Pulsar SE (Mar 25, 2003)

In a racing situation you need to heel, toe it (Heel on brake and toe on gas).


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2003)

so downshifting isnt good for your car unless you know how to do it properly? i mean, ive im coming to a red light, and im in lower rpms, ill just throw it into the next lowest gear, and it will be a pretty smooth transition(say, from 5th to 4th)
what is the proper way to downshift, if im doing it wrong(first time driving my own car with stick)

i throw my car in neutral a lot too...so im guessing i shouldnt do that anymore after what you guys said...


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## cademetz (Apr 29, 2003)

Okay, I'm going to get somewhat techincal here, please correct me if I make any mistakes.

Your normal manual transmission has two types of gears, road gears and engine gears. Road gears are attached to a shaft and output to the diff, while the engine gears are along a seperate shaft which connects to the clutch/flywheel. 

When in gear, with the clutch pedal is not pushed down, gears on each shaft are connected, thus driving the car forward. When in gear, but clutch IS pushed down, the gears are still connected, but the engine shaft spins seperate from the engine since the clutch is not mated to the flywheel. When in neutral, and clutch pushed down, the two shafts of gears are apart from each other, the road shaft still spinning with respect to the road speed, while the engine shaft is not mated to the engine and spins freely. When in neutral, but clutch is NOT pushed in, the road gears spin with respect to the road speed, and the engine shaft moves with respect to the engine. So, there are the four senarios for manual tranny.

Moving on...

when downshifting, any lower gear requires a higher RPM of the engine to maintain the same speed. For example, my SE-R does 2500 RPMs in 4th gear at 40MPH. In 2nd gear at 40MPH it does 4750 RPMs. 

Now, there are three ways to downshift. First, and most common, you push the clutch down, shift from 4th to 2nd (using my senario) and then let the clutch out. Now, since no gas is given, the engine is still at roughly 2500 RPMS. When you let the clutch out, the clutch is spinning at a speed relative to the road speed. However, the engine needs to be at 4750. So, as you begin to let the clutch out and the clutch mates with the flywheel, the engine is forced to rev up because of the greater momentum of the car. However, because this doesn't happen instaneously, the clutch will in effect slip slightly as the engine comes up to speed. This is not good for the clutch/PP/flywheel, but is not devastating. Also, when you shifted, the road gear and engine gear were not rotating at the same speed, however, the engine gear now also needs to spin faster and thus the snychros handle this, allowing for smooth shifts. Snychros were designed to do this, and wear is not a huge issue.

Second senario. You clutch in, shift into the lower gear, and rev the engine to the appropiate RPM then clutch out. This in effect brings the engine to the same rotational speed as the clutch, allowing them to come together without slippage. This reduces wear on the clutch, and on the gear side, nothing really changed.

Third senario. Double clutching. You clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out. This means the road gear and engine gear are not interacting, and the road gear spins relative to the car's speed and the engine gear spins relative to the engine. Now, you bring the engine upto the appropiate RPM. This brings the clutch AND engine gear to the same rotational speed as the road gear. You then clutch in and shift into the lower gear, the snychros have to do little to no work, reducing wear and you've reduced the wear on the clutch face. If done PERFECTLY, you can shift into the lower gear WITHOUT using the clutch.... but it's hard to do.

So, is downshifting with the first method going to destroy your tranny? Most likely not, but will wear it out more quickly, and harsh downshifts will potentially ruin it. Senario two is better, but not best and will increase the life of the clutch, but not snychros. Senario three is "best" but not necessary. 

I learned how to double clutch while I was also learning how to drive at age 16 (taught myself). Thus with 6 years of practice (and driving the same engine / tranny (91, 92 SE-R, 92NX, 96 SE-R)), I naturally double clutch without thinking about. I 'dog' my car HARD (but take care of her) and I've had my current car for nearly 50K miles (car itself has near 100K total, oringal clutch) and I honestly beleive if I didn't double clutch I may have had to replace my clutch long ago.

So, there is my 2 cents.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

cademetz - thank you, I think most people don't understand the differences between the different types of downshifts and you put into words what I could not. Everything you said is what I wanted to say, I'm just not very good with explaining it, hehe. I have driven a car with a blown 2nd gear synchro, and let me tell you that it can happen and it is NOT FUN. That's why I double clutch in my sentra now, so I never have to go through that again.


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2003)

so double clutching is basically putting the car in neutral first, and then downshifting to a lower gear?


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

push in clutch, go to neutral, release clutch, rev up, push in clutch, shift into lower gear, release clutch


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## BlackSpec02 (Apr 12, 2003)

Double clutching seems somewhat hard. and if you dont do it really fast it will take you a lot more time to get into gear than just shifting... I would like to learn how to double clutch, but I don't want to do it on my spec. Too afraid of hurting it, which I know I would because it would take me forever to get the hang of it... 

It would be sweet to goto a racing school and learn how to double clutch, heel/toe, left foot brake.... etc.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

BlackSpec02 said:


> *Double clutching seems somewhat hard. and if you dont do it really fast it will take you a lot more time to get into gear than just shifting... I would like to learn how to double clutch, but I don't want to do it on my spec. Too afraid of hurting it, which I know I would because it would take me forever to get the hang of it...
> 
> It would be sweet to goto a racing school and learn how to double clutch, heel/toe, left foot brake.... etc. *


aw c'mon, you're only 2 months younger than me, it's really easy when you get the hang of it. I don't even really think about it anymore, double clutching and heel/toe are both things you can teach yourself, they just take practice. You don't really mess up the car if you do them wrong, it just isn't smooth. I'm still learning how to heel/toe in the sentra, the pedals just aren't set up well for it, especially when you have a size 14 foot, hehe. Double clutching is really easy to learn, it just takes some practice before you get fast at it.


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2003)

ok
i think i got the idea of it
the thing is, how do you know how high to rev the engine for the switch to 4th from 5th? the way i understand it, lets say im driving in 5th, at 3000 rpm...i put it in neutral, rev it do 3000 rpm, and then drop it in 4th?

im not really smart when it comes to cars and stuff, so im out of your guy's leagues right now
just tryin to learn right now


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2003)

usually when i downshift, i just throw it in the lower gear..lets say im in 5th and i want to downshift..i let off the gas to get to lower rpms, then switch to 4th...no reving or anything


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## cademetz (Apr 29, 2003)

The best way to learn what RPM's you need is kinda like learning to convert from Metric to Standard temps. A trick is to learn several equivalents, and then guesstimate from there. 

For example, onmy 200SX SE-R, 40MPH in 4th Gear is 2500 RPMs, in second gear, the engine does 4750 RPMS. So, 45 in 2nd Gear has to be more than 4750, though I can't think of a number... I know it by hear more now than I do by numbers. FOr a 200SX SE-R, here are stats I know:

2nd Gear:
20MPH - ~2200 RPMS
40MPH - ~4750 RPMS
55MPH - ~6250 RPMS

3rd Gear - 
30MPH - ~2500 RPMS
40MPH - ~3200 RPMS
50MPH - ~4000 RPMS
60MPH - ~5000 RPMS

4th Gear
THIS IS COOL, for the 200SX, the Tach and the Speedo are synched... bring the tach to the same "angle" as the speedo.

So, you have a rough map of points, and you kinda base RPM's off that. MOST OF THIS is just from 6 six years of experience on the same engine/tranny. Like I said, I've gotten to know it by sound more than sight, and can double clutch without paying attention to the tach or speedo.


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## Guest (Apr 29, 2003)

excuse me, but im still a little confused




> the way i understand it, lets say im driving in 5th, at 3000 rpm...i put it in neutral, rev it do 3000 rpm, and then drop it in 4th?


thats what your supposed to do right? its just a matter of figuring at how high to rev it to match the speed you are going...


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Yeah, it just takes practice to learn what to rev to. But keep this in mind, it is always better to rev too high than too low, it's much easier on the clutch to slow the engine down 1k rpm rapidly than it is to speed the engine up 1k rpm rapidly. Basically you can learn the redlines of your car, then go off of there. For me it's like this

1st - 30
2nd - 50
3rd - 80
4th - 115
5th - ?

so if I'm going 70 and I drop to 3rd, I need to rev just about to the redline, then by the time I get it in gear and get the clutch out it has fallen right where it needs to be. Just takes practice is all


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## Aggdaddy (Feb 6, 2003)

Hey, does double clutching improve quarter mile times? Or is it just for saving your drive-train?


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

you don't use it for upshifting, so it does nothing for a 1/4 mile time...unless for some reason you downshift in the middle of your 1/4???


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## BlackSpec02 (Apr 12, 2003)

OK, im definitely going to try this out.... we'll see what happens. I thought you were supposed to use it both on the upshift and down shift... to make your RPM's higher on the upshift to go faster or something.... maybe i've just seen F&F too many times... damn that movie. I've heard it doesn't help much on the upshift with newer engines though, I guess the technology has gotten good enough to not need it or something, but the downshift business makes tons of sense, I suppose I will try this out!


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## Guest (Apr 30, 2003)

*Re: Re: Re: manuel with spec v*

Nonsense... the transmission is connected to the engine at that time and takes stress (as well as the engine) in a "braking" scenario. 



chimmike said:


> *the tranny doesn't do any braking. The engine does. *


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## cademetz (Apr 29, 2003)

BlackSpec02 said:


> *I thought you were supposed to use it both on the upshift and down shift...*


Well, you CAN use it on a upshift..., but it will only effectively reduce wear on the synchros. When you upshift the engine naturally loses RPMS (assuming you lift off the throttle between shifts). So, the RPM's naturally fall for upshifts, and comes to a speed equal to the clutch on its own.

Word of advice though... just like "rev-matching" with downshift/double clutch, try to clutch out on an upshift when the engine has reached the proper RPM.. and like a good downshift double clutch, it will be a smooth upshift transition, and your passengers will be much appreciated.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"Hey, does double clutching improve quarter mile times? Or is it just for saving your drive-train?"_

I think that was one of the goofs in the Fast and The Furious. he talks about double-clutching in a drag race. 

Yes, *cademetz* is correct. the idea is to do this slowly and smoothly at first ... then you increase the speed of the shift and the speeds in general. This is how you become a truly "elite" driver. :thumbup:

You need to crawl before you can walk.


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## Duckgirl8424 (Mar 6, 2004)

i personally always downshift when im ready to slow down, my car has just about 87,000 miles on it and its still on the original clutch, although its high on miles for a 98 is still runs like its new


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## caveman (Dec 20, 2003)

Here is my .02

Your tranny has synchros, so you don't have to double clutch it. This isn't some 50s pick up truck. Push the clutch in and change gears. It's that simple. Tranny and synchros faulire comes down to abuse and how quickly you try and change gears.

I've had two cars with high miles and they were both on the original tranny untouched. One even had the original clutch and lasted almost 300K miles. I downshifted to help slow the car down, and I shift without double clutching it. I've never broken anything doing this, nor have I worn out synchros early. 

If anything, I would be worried about wearing out the TOB early with all that clutch action from double clutching it. That puts twice the work on the TOB. Sure the TOB is a cheap part, but you still have to drop the tranny to change it.

It is not needed. Go ahead and do it if you must, but your tranny has synchros for a reason.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

Duckgirl8424 said:


> i personally always downshift when im ready to slow down, my car has just about 87,000 miles on it and its still on the original clutch, although its high on miles for a 98 is still runs like its new



and you brought this thread back from the dead why? you don't even have a B15.


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