# Bad Tranmisson Mount - Rough Shifting?



## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

I was told my tranny mount is bad, I got under and looked at it and it looks cracked, which would explain my rough shifting, right? 

Shifting out of park, and then from 1-2 and 2-1 is rough (auto tranny) and I was thinking it just needed a flush, but I am thinking if I fix the mount it should solve my problem? 

Also, can anyone tell me the part number? I can't seem to find it online. 

1999 B14 Sentra GXE 1.6L


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

want an OEM one? try Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

not set on OEM? try autozone.com I know autozone has engine mounts. it wouldn't make sense not to have a transmission mount too.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> want an OEM one? try Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com
> 
> not set on OEM? try autozone.com I know autozone has engine mounts. it wouldn't make sense not to have a transmission mount too.



Any write ups on how to do this myself?


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

the motor mount is basically right below the battery. If you look underneath the car, the transmission is bolted to the engine on one side, and supported by the mount on the other side. Granted, i have a manual, and haven't seen for sure where it is on an auto, but i can't imagine it'd be anywhere drastically different.

Take a jack (probably not the scissors-type jack you use to change a tire), and lift up the engine a little by the oilpan (careful! if you don't put a block of wood or something between the jack and the oil pan to disperse the weight you can bend the oil pan, causing oil starvation for the engine!). The transmission will lift up with the engine. That will take weight off of the side where it's held up by the transmission mount.

The mount itself is bolted to the chassis with 3 bolts. There's one bolt holding the transmission to the mount. The hardest part is just aligning bolts together once you pull the old mount out and put the new one in.

good luck. let us know if you need anything else.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> the motor mount is basically right below the battery. If you look underneath the car, the transmission is bolted to the engine on one side, and supported by the mount on the other side. Granted, i have a manual, and haven't seen for sure where it is on an auto, but i can't imagine it'd be anywhere drastically different.
> 
> Take a jack (probably not the scissors-type jack you use to change a tire), and lift up the engine a little by the oilpan (careful! if you don't put a block of wood or something between the jack and the oil pan to disperse the weight you can bend the oil pan, causing oil starvation for the engine!). The transmission will lift up with the engine. That will take weight off of the side where it's held up by the transmission mount.
> 
> ...


Sounds easy enough, do I need to loose anything else before lifting up the engine? How much do I lift it up, or how do I know it's up high enough? 

I also need to do my other mounts, I know where they are, so should I lift it up, and do 1 at a time or what?


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

you shouldn't need to loosen anything else. you just need to lift it up enough to take the weight off the transmission mount. If you don't lift enough, the weight of the transmission will be pushing down on the bolts you're trying to get out. if you lift too much, then you'll just be pulling up on the bolts. You'll have to find the middle ground yourself. it's not that hard. If you want to change them all, do them one at a time. mounts isn't worth the hell it'd be to pull the whole engine out. The one in back behind the engine is the worst one. It's actually the only one i haven't done.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> you shouldn't need to loosen anything else. you just need to lift it up enough to take the weight off the transmission mount. If you don't lift enough, the weight of the transmission will be pushing down on the bolts you're trying to get out. if you lift too much, then you'll just be pulling up on the bolts. You'll have to find the middle ground yourself. it's not that hard. If you want to change them all, do them one at a time. mounts isn't worth the hell it'd be to pull the whole engine out. The one in back behind the engine is the worst one. It's actually the only one i haven't done.


Luckily the broken ones are easy to access, my rear mount seems fine. 

Wheres the best place to get the mounts? I have no idea what specific part I need.


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

you can find them at autozone.com. that's where i got mine from. any automotive store should be able to get you some.

I got tired of my drivetrain being so sloppy when i shifted, so i upgraded to polyurethane mounts. Each mount costs from 35 to 70 dollars each, if i remember correctly. If you want the drivetrain to be more rigid and not have to worry about your rubber mounts getting soft again, you can avoid buying new mounts (steel brackets with rubber inside) by just getting stiffer polyurethane mount inserts. You have to cut the rubber inserts out of your current ones and shove the polyurethane ones in instead. check out my forum thread http://www.nissanforums.com/b14-95-99-chassis/148076-bad-motor-mounts.html if you want to read up on how to do it.
the +: your car will respond like it's got 5 more hp.
another +: the set of all 4 mount inserts is $60 as opposed to $60 apiece for each mount.
the -: a lot more vibrations are being fed into the chassis from the engine because the mounts aren't soggy rubber anymore, so your car will be little noisier. Depends on what's worth it to you though. I personally love my polyurethane mount inserts. I got mine from summitracing.com

let us know what you decide do to and we can help you along.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> you can find them at autozone.com. that's where i got mine from. any automotive store should be able to get you some.
> 
> I got tired of my drivetrain being so sloppy when i shifted, so i upgraded to polyurethane mounts. Each mount costs from 35 to 70 dollars each, if i remember correctly. If you want the drivetrain to be more rigid and not have to worry about your rubber mounts getting soft again, you can avoid buying new mounts (steel brackets with rubber inside) by just getting stiffer polyurethane mount inserts. You have to cut the rubber inserts out of your current ones and shove the polyurethane ones in instead. check out my forum thread http://www.nissanforums.com/b14-95-99-chassis/148076-bad-motor-mounts.html if you want to read up on how to do it.
> the +: your car will respond like it's got 5 more hp.
> ...


Thanks for the advice, but I am looking for the smoothest ride possible so I should probably just repalce the mounts. 

I am going to get the mounts this week...hopefully.


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