# Ignition Switch is dead, can I hotwire it?



## DMRadford (Apr 15, 2015)

First things first: Yes its my car, I own it outright. What I'm asking is for legitimate reasons and within legal bounds since I'm the owner of the vehicle.

So I've got a 93 NX2000, ~196500 miles on it, it died on me about a month ago a couple miles from my apartment and so it's just parked on the side of the road waiting to be fixed or sold. I just went by it last night to get some stuff out of it and the police have it marked for impound. So, I need to get this thing running or at least moved ASAP.

History / knowledge: When it died, it would turn over all day long, just not actually start. So naturally I thought the fuel pump had gone out. Replaced the fuel pump, still no start. Talked to my mechanic and he said to check for spark and check to see if the fuel pump is getting power. Did that, I'm not getting spark and no power is going to the fuel pump. Mechanic suggested checking my relays. Checked them, all are good (even the hidden one above the computer behind the radio). So, now to the best of my knowledge we're down to 2 possible issues: 1) Dead computer or 2) Dead ignition switch. Yes, I know the ignition switch is at least PARTIALLY working since it will turn over. However, if just a couple of the contact points in the switch have gotten too corroded, it can cause these symptoms. Ignition switch is about $180 and only available online, computer is roundabouts the same situation.

All this to say, I have to try to work around these to move this car within the next couple days or it's off to impound.

Point: Can this car be hotwired? How can I do that? I know it won't work if the computer is dead, but I'm running tight on time and options so I've got to try something. I don't care if I have to destroy the ignition switch stuff, the dash is already mostly pulled apart trying to get at all the relays anyway.

Help?

-David Radford


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## DMRadford (Apr 15, 2015)

Alright. So I was able to find an ignition switch at the local O'Reilly and sadly that wasn't the issue. So, it's looking like the problem is most likely the ECU. Is there anything else it could be? I don't want to shell out $350 if there's a chance it could be something else that I'm just missing.

-David


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The cam position sensor that's located in the distributor may be bad; possible oil contamination from a worn-out oil seal; look inside the distributor for tell-tail signs of oil. The sensor is responsible for telling the ECU to trigger the coil to create an ignition spark for a given cylinder.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

As for moving it, you could just get a tow truck to move it or rent a U-haul pickup truck with a tow dolly. 
As far as the ECM, do the red and green LEDs light up on it with the key "on?" Also, have you checked your fusible links and fuses? A lot of things can cause your issue. This is why manufacturers make factory service manuals, so one can follow diagnostic steps specific to their problem to properly and properly isolate the cause, rather than guess and throw parts at it, which can get expensive. You might be able to find a downloadable manual for free at Nico Forum's website or in the "knowledge base" at NissanHelp.com. You would be looking for the "EC" chapter, for engine control. Did you try checking for trouble codes? You can find the procedure at this link:
Nissan OBD Trouble Codes ?


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