# '99 I30 (Maxima) idle hiccup



## twodb (Jan 15, 2006)

Hi folks! New to this forum with my first question: My '99 w/48,000 miles will occasionaly hiccup when stopped at a stop light. In other words, when idling in gear. Not noticed during regular driving or acceleration just when at a light. I've never noticed it while idling in park, just when in gear (load). It doesn't do it all the time, not even every time I stop, just every once in a while after the engine has warmed up. The engine doesn't stall, it just skips a beat, then goes back to being normal. To give you a time frame, during the length of one stop light, it might hiccup 2 or 3 times, at the most. The RPMs fall off a couple hundred RPM, then go back to rock solid. Any ideas? Thanks for a GREAT forum!!!

David


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## mcf1000x2003 (Dec 8, 2005)

I have the same issue with my 98 GLE when I stop it will drop to 300rpm and back to 500 but not all the time.I think it I may need to clean my throttle body and of course get new plugs.


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

im not sure what it is, but im guessing its definately a sensor. 
I would check the following:
-AICV
-TPS
-EGR
-MAF

then again, I look at the year of your car and I start to suspect the ignition coils. I would check them too and the plugs. If everything turns out fine then you probable have a vacuum leak, fuel system issue.


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## twodb (Jan 15, 2006)

DRUNKHORSE said:


> im not sure what it is, but im guessing its definately a sensor.
> I would check the following:
> -AICV
> -TPS
> ...


I think I'll start by cleaning my TB and changing my fuel filter (I was going to do them anyway). Then it'll be about time to change the plugs in another 10k anyway, so I'll do them also. Hopefully, that'll take care of it. Is there an easy way to check the coils while I have everything undone? Thanks for your suggestions!

David


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

twodb said:


> I think I'll start by cleaning my TB and changing my fuel filter (I was going to do them anyway). Then it'll be about time to change the plugs in another 10k anyway, so I'll do them also. Hopefully, that'll take care of it. Is there an easy way to check the coils while I have everything undone? Thanks for your suggestions!
> 
> David


Im gonna be doing some work tomorrow, so Ill post some pictures of how to check them with an ohmmeter. it takes less than 5 mins to check them. Another way is, while the car is on, disconnect the electrical connector from each one(do one by one). Everytime you disconnect one the engine will idle poorly(very poorly) and you will notice this right when you disconnect each one. If you disconnect one and no difference happens then do further tests on the wiring fo that one, and if all checks out fine then thats most likely the culprit. It probably wont be it do, because if it was a coil you wouldve noticed the engine power/torque/feel right when the coil went dead.


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## twodb (Jan 15, 2006)

DRUNKHORSE said:


> .... It probably wont be it do, because if it was a coil you wouldve noticed the engine power/torque/feel right when the coil went dead.


You're probably right, as the car pulls strongly and drives normally, otherwise. It only misfires on rare occasion while at a stop light. Is this a beginning symptom of the dredded old/new style coil pack failure problem that I've read in other numerous posts? Is there any way to tell the new from the old?


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## alexnds (Oct 1, 2005)

*engine hiccups*



twodb said:


> Hi folks! New to this forum with my first question: My '99 w/48,000 miles will occasionaly hiccup when stopped at a stop light. In other words, when idling in gear. Not noticed during regular driving or acceleration just when at a light. I've never noticed it while idling in park, just when in gear (load). It doesn't do it all the time, not even every time I stop, just every once in a while after the engine has warmed up. The engine doesn't stall, it just skips a beat, then goes back to being normal. To give you a time frame, during the length of one stop light, it might hiccup 2 or 3 times, at the most. The RPMs fall off a couple hundred RPM, then go back to rock solid. Any ideas? Thanks for a GREAT forum!!!
> 
> David


David, first do a tuneup. Check spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor and PCV valve. You either have some carbon buildup on throttle body someplace, or the idle air control motor is getting a bit confused somehow. 

Then, check out this procedure:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/518

It shows you how to clean out your throttle body, great overall site.


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

alexnds said:


> David, *first do a tuneup*. Check spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor and PCV valve. You either have some carbon buildup on throttle body someplace, or the idle air control motor is getting a bit confused somehow.
> 
> Then, check out this procedure:
> 
> ...


first, I was just wondering why you suggests tune-ups so much? tune-ups arent always the best way to go especially on these cars because they are expensive.
second, 95+ doesn't use plug wires, or a distributor, that's why the ignition coils are there, to replace them.

As for the pcv valve suggestion, thats not a bad idea, but if it were the pcv valve it probaly would do it more often rather then on rare occasions like David said.


Also sorry I wasnt able to take the pictures today, I am trying to find a new place to nest and I got busy with that.
The day looks good tomorrow, so im thinking tomorrow ill be taking the pics. 



twodb said:


> Is this a beginning symptom of the dredded old/new style coil pack failure problem that I've read in other numerous posts?


this, Im not sure about. The symptom doesnt happen always, thats why its hard to figure out whats the culprit. This problem can also come from emissions control systems. This includes:

-M.A.P. SENSOR 
-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR 
-IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE 
-Evaporative Emission Controls 
-EGR VALVE 

the list goes on, and im getting tired, so heres the *page* of everything involved.

*What you need to do is really pay attention to when this happens.* I know it only happens on rare occasions, but when it does happen check the temperature of the car, the weather, what rpm its at, does this happen if you slip it into 1/2 gear, just anything that might work in conjuction to the misfire.


twodb said:


> Is there any way to tell the new from the old?


The Mitsubishi's are better than the Hanshin's. The Hanshins from late 90s were the usual culprits...with 99s being the worst off. The coils weren't sealed effectively causing debris/ corrosion that fouls the metal contacts inside.


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## mcf1000x2003 (Dec 8, 2005)

My car usually does it when Im coming to a stop like at a light or something instead of the idle stopping at the normal 500 rpms it drops down to 300 then pops back up.I've also had some problems before where i would start the car and it would jump to 1000rpms and dropped down and died out.


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## DRUNKHORSE (Mar 6, 2005)

I approached this with a clear mind now, and I decided to read up on other thread similar to this and so I dont think I need to take any pictures. Most likely the problem is that you need to maybe clean the *IACV*. here's the threads I read. thread 1 thread 2 *<<<this one tell you how to clean it and the tools you need*. and thread 3. Reading those 3 threads I came to the conclusion that it might be the IACV. In your situation it doesnt happen much because most likely its not that dirty that why it only does it on rare occasions.


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## twodb (Jan 15, 2006)

I want to thank everyone for all their help! I found it was the dreaded ignition coils. I got 6 new coils for $488.88 (incl. tax) from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas and installed them myself, saving around $600 additional dollars that Infiniti was going to charge ((about $1100 total!). I REALLY took my time and only took about an hour or so. Someone who has already changed their plugs and knows the lay of the land could probably do it in less than half that time. I was most concerned about the difficulty of the rear coils, but once I got in there, they are no bigger problem than the front (which is little to none). The worst one is the drivers side rear, but all you have do is to unbolt the thottle linkage bracket (no need to undo the throttle) and move it out of the way. No big deal. My BIGGEST reccomendation is to buy one of those magnets on the end of an antenna thingys (1 or 2 dollars). It is invaluble for making sure you don't have an accident and drop one of the screws that hold the coils on. It also helps when replacing the screws on the rear coils. This should in no way scare anyone about the job, just a helpful hint. Do the job, save a LOT of money, and feel your Max/I30 idle smoother (or at least as smooth) as new. Again, thanks to all! GREAT forum!

David


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## BeZerK2112 (Aug 28, 2006)

I just got on and read your forum. I knew what it was right from the get go. I had the same problem about 4 months ago. Sorry I was a day late. Could have saved you a lot of grief.


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## jmillet (Jan 1, 2007)

*Rough idle equals coil pack*

Have experienced a rough idle on my 1999 Maxima for several years but never threw a check engine light until recently. Pulled the fault codes and got P1320 Ignition Primary Signal. A resistance check on the coil packs revealed no problem. Cleared the check engine light and the rough idle persisted. Could find no one who could do a load test on the coil packs to determine which one(s) were failing. Finally decided to bite the bullet and replace all six coil packs. Purchased Standard Motor Products coils from RockAuto Parts for $388 including shipping. The coils are manufactured by Hanshin and are Nissan logo-ed with part numbers 22448-31U01 and 22448-31U06 exactly the same as the original ones I pulled out.
Slapped in the fresh coils and now the car purrs like a kitten.

Jim
1999 Maxima SE Limited


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