# 97 HB fuel line



## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

I've lurked the forums here quite a bit and this is my first post. I'm a proud owner of a '97 HB with 250k on the odometer. I purchased the truck with 210k on the odometer last year. Paid $800 figuring it would be a good truck to get around town and do some light work with it. It has since become my daily driver. I was pulling 24-25 mpg and suddenly I noticed the strong odor/smell of gas in the cab when I was at a stop. I drive it for another day figuring it was something other than the truck (so far I've only had to replace the water pump). The gas smell lingers on and now my mpg is WAY down. I got underneath the truck and noticed a very small drip, wiped and smell test tells me its gas. After searching the forums I'm pretty sure the rubber hose that attached the line to the top of the tank has dry rotted and that is where I'm going to start my troubleshooting. Now here is my problems and my questions. 
My wife and I have moved to a new town and we are just getting set up in our new place. I have no friends that live closer than three hours. I work two jobs and I only have a very small window that I can service this problem. My plan is to pull the bed, replace the offending line, swap the fuel pumps, throw the bed back on. At most I've got 6 hours I can devote to this. All of this has to be done in my gravel driveway, and I can get one other person to help me. I do not have access nor money to get special equipment and tools. I think I can do this job on my own. I've replaced fuel pumps before but I've never pulled a bed off a truck. Everything I've read tells me pulling the bed is the easiest way to get to the problem and I hate dropping tanks. As far as I understand I need to pull six bolts from the bed, undo the wiring harness at the back of the truck, pull three or four screws off the filler neck, and gently lift the bed.
Are there any special tools I will need? What size is the rubber line so I can have it ready when I do the swap? Do I need to have anything other than a basic set of mechanics tools available? 
Please throw me any advice that you think will help.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I've always just dropped the fuel tank, but I have seen people use the method you describe. If it's the pressure line, you'll need 5/16" fuel injection (not regular fuel hose) hose. If it's the return line, I believe it's 1/4" fuel injection hose. The problem with either method will be how rusted the bolts are. Soak them good with plenty of rust penetrant, like P-blaster. Basic hand tools in metric sizes should be okay, but you should have a breaker bar ready if you don't have access to an impact gun. A can of spray carb cleaner can be used on the rubber hoses to help soften them up for removal. IMO, replacing the fuel pump is not worth replacing unless you are using a genuine Nissan part, as I've seen plenty of problems with aftermarket fuel pump failure. Make sure you get a new "O" seal for the fuel sender if it doesn't come with the pump.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

250K...she's just gettin' broke in! Welcome to the Forum!

I had a fuel line rot on my old '93. It was up close to the tank. I took it to my mechanic and he said the easiest and fastest way was to remove the bed. He did and the repair was, IMO, very cheap.

Laying on your back on a gravel driveway with gas dripping on your face and clothes is not where you wanna' be (I have done that...spliced a fuel line). I spliced a short piece of rubber hose in one of the main lines (think it was a return) and it held for years.

Like smj999smj said, I think that rusty bolts will be your worst enemy (including the ones that hold the filler neck). I'm also in agreement to not change the part if it's not busted. You can't beat OEM parts.

I'm thinkin' unless you could come up with some type of lifting device (H shaped 2X4's wedged under the bed rail and then lifted) then you're gonna' want the help of three other people and they don't all have to be hulking males.


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## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

Got the bed off. For sure the best way to do it. Getting to the tank was going to be a real pain and pulling the bed wasn't too bad. Pulled three screws off the filler neck, broke six 14mm bolts loose (anyone in the future make sure you have a deep well and at least a six and two inch extension as well as a 14mm box end wrench),pulled the lights off the bumper and undid the junction box at the back passenger side frame and pulled it off. Had that job done in less than twenty minutes and barely had to crawl under the truck for that. Now here is my new problem. The area in the picture that is circled is broke so I'm going to have to get a new one. I honestly don't know what the name of it is. What else am I going to need to get to finish the job and can I get it all at autozone or advance? I know I'm going to need a new tank seal but what else.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

I believe that whole metal unit will have to be pulled and replaced. I think a well cleaned unit from a boneyard would do the trick.

To be honest, I've never been into the fuel tank so hopefully other members will have better advice for you.

Good job in getting the bed off! How many people did it take to lift it off?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

That's the fuel sending unit; it's a dealer item that MSRP's for $88 or you can get it as an assy. with the fuel pump, but it's a couple of hundred dollars more.


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## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

Took me and my father-in-law to take it off and we are not big men. Together we weigh about 375 lbs. It took a little shaking but it really wasn't too hard. It looks like if I go to advance auto or autozone I'm looking at between $300-$400 for a fuel hanging assembly. Please tell me that I'm wrong. I'm going to have to go to a bone yard for sure.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The "fuel hanger assy." is the sending unit with the fuel pump. It all depends if you want to replace just the sending unit or get the sending unit w/ the fuel pump. You can get the genuine Nissan parts cheaper than that from online sources, such as Nissanpartszone.com or 1stAAANissanParts.com. The sender/pump assy. goes for $250-$288 online, depending on whether you have a "low fuel" warning lamp or not. The sender, alone, goes for around $65. Avoid aftermarket fuel pumps.


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## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm having trouble figuring which part number to order. I went to the closest dealership and they're telling me if they order the fuel sending unit it will only be the electrical assembly inside the tank. So I've looked at the drawings from the websites you gave me but the exploded view of the assembly is confusing me (all I've got right now is my phone to get online)


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The fuel sender should be Nissan P/N: 25060-3S510. It's part code is "25060Y." MSRP is $88.42. Available for $63.66 at 1stAAANissanParts.com.

Fuel pump assy. (sender w/ pump) is P/N: 17040-8B000. It's parts code is "17040." MSRP is $339.36 and available at 1stAAANissanParts.com for $248.41.

The sender "O" seal is P/N 17342-01A00. I believe it comes with the fuel pump assy. but not with the sender, but you should check on that.


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## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

Well I ordered the parts and going by the code 25060Y I got the interior assembly for the fuel sender. So it looks like I'm going to have to order the whole damn thing. Anyone know where I can find one for dirt cheap? Can I just pull the unit and maybe braze where the leak is? SMJ999SMJ thanks for trying. I appreciate it. Looks like th seal is a spot on match tho.


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## scuzzo (Nov 30, 2011)

Sorry for being so late on this update. Finally got fed up with trying to find the part and just took it to a shop and had them braze the bends of the metal lines. Trucks running great and the tank has stayed dry with no gas odor. It may just hold up for a few months or maybe a few years, who knows. But for the last month or so it's been working a treat.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you an take a smaller rubber hose and put it in the tube that has the hole and then apply some jb weld .. let it dry and then remove the rubber whole..
they have a special gas application jb weld...


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