# 91 Nissan Max SE Hesitation problems...help!



## chiri (Aug 10, 2006)

I have a 91 Nissan Maxima SE, automatic. It misses and stutters off of idle... but when taking off it then runs perfect, once you get a lil speed. I've ran fuel injector cleaner thru the car three times every time I went to fill up, and replaced the spark plugs and wires. There was a lil oil on the outside of 2 old plugs but none in the interior of it. The car still stutters when I tested it out after changing the plugs/wires, reversing from my spot in the driveway and giving it a little bit of gas to pull forward again. Sometimes the problem goes away but for the most part it is there. Any suggestions? Links to pics etc would help alot also. Thanks.


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## CBPMIKE (Feb 2, 2005)

Check the Oxygen sensor - disconnect it from the harness and see if it runs better to determine if this is a problem


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## blackonblack (Jul 7, 2006)

Change the MAF... That's my panacea for all 89 - 94 Maxima rough idle/shut off problems.


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## internetautomart (Mar 8, 2004)

Hardly.
WAY more injectors fail than MAFs
his symptoms are those of a bad injector or 2 or 3.


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## blackonblack (Jul 7, 2006)

I remember doing all that stuff... Starting with the cheapest solution (oil change, air filter, spark plugs,) to some of the most tedious and time consuming (alternator, distributor & rotor cap, to belts). And it all was solved with a simple $40 MAF off a junk yard. 

The fuel injectors and the plugs did have significant amounts of motor oil around their ring. But that is only normal for third gens in need of replacing the overall "engine gasket" (sorry I don't know the name of the red area where motor oil is added). That's the reason for most oil leaks for 3rd gen. Believe it or not, it takes a whole lot for motor oil to leak into a spark plug or an injector. Is not impossible, but it is very dificult.


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## alexnds (Oct 1, 2005)

*car stutters*



chiri said:


> I have a 91 Nissan Maxima SE, automatic. It misses and stutters off of idle... but when taking off it then runs perfect, once you get a lil speed. I've ran fuel injector cleaner thru the car three times every time I went to fill up, and replaced the spark plugs and wires. There was a lil oil on the outside of 2 old plugs but none in the interior of it. The car still stutters when I tested it out after changing the plugs/wires, reversing from my spot in the driveway and giving it a little bit of gas to pull forward again. Sometimes the problem goes away but for the most part it is there. Any suggestions? Links to pics etc would help alot also. Thanks.


It hard to say exactly what the problem is, but your problem is idle related sounds like. Could be any number of possible things, so these are suggestions only. Check for vaccuum leaks. Check for a bad MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor), or Idle Air control motor. The best thing to do is take it to a shop and have them put in a computer and see if it shows any codes. That way, you have some sense of what it might be. My suggestion is to clean throttle body first. Check for vacuum leaks. If you rule all this out, it might be bad injectors, as others have suggested. Try it in logical step by step fashion.

Here are some helpful links that I researched, that you may find useful to your situation:

http://forums. ******** .com/zerothread?id=126534
Engine Codes from 3rd Gen ECU

motorvate.ca v2.0 - *THE* DIY Maxima Website
How to Clean Throttle Body, Part1:

motorvate.ca v2.0 - *THE* DIY Maxima Website
How to Clean Throttle Body, Part2

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...23d801f5181.jsp
How to Change Fuel Pressure Regulator

Buy some used injectors and have them cleaned/rebuilt:
Fuel Injector Cleaning and Flow Testing
or:
Accurate Injector Service - Fuel Injector Cleaning - Fuel Injector Balancing

How to Remove Fuel Injectors
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...23d801f5140.jsp

>How to replace your injectors
AUTOS & BOATS : Fuel Systems : Fuel System Service and Fuel-Injector Replacement : DIY Network

Let us know how it turns out


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## richieb (Jun 18, 2006)

Well, having toyed with the idea of it "Not being Injectors"(or denying it on lots of work basis!!), I succumbed to the Idea, and $150(for 6) later, all slight misfires/stumbling, odd irratic idling... IT NOW is ok. I reakon, for my 2 cents, first, check injectors, and cleanig dont really help that much. 
Check resistances of them, check continuity back to ECCS as well. I think, knowing my Max, I'd go there, age does eventually get them Injectors. and yours is the same age!!
I know there are many reasons, but I wieghed up age etc here, and experience too!
P>S> Anyone know why they are permanently connected to positive, or can I connect them to other side of the ECCS relay, and take power off them when car is out of use, cos it might well be the cause of the "Green" connector disease... moisture etc!!


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## internetautomart (Mar 8, 2004)

it's electrically safer to switch the ground than the positive with an ECU. ALL manufacturers do it that way


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## richieb (Jun 18, 2006)

Ah, ok, I looked at the wire map, and wondered.
Good Enuff.

Thanks.


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## chiri (Aug 10, 2006)

Thank you for all of your suggestions. I am going to start trying to figure out what the heck will fix the probs.


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## jonesalexr (Aug 6, 2006)

chiri said:


> Thank you for all of your suggestions. I am going to start trying to figure out what the heck will fix the probs.


My car idles like shit and ive checked all of the above. It also accelererated like shit too until yesterday when i changed the fuel filter. I think it might be one, two, or three of the injectors. Ill have to check. but as far as the peppyness, change your fuel filter. My car is pretty quick now.


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## PeaceWarrior (Oct 24, 2006)

Hey all, ive been having the same problem, and Im curious - Whats an MAF? I have a book but it doesnt mention MAFs


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## Edog1382 (Aug 9, 2006)

MAF is a Mass Air Flow sensor. On my 97 altima its a small sensor that attaches to the air filter housing. After replacing the stock intake with a aftermarket cone, my MAF just hangs there... up until today it ran fine (6 months with it) But today... my car started running like shit. Keeps stalling. Thats why I ended up on this page tonight. Im trying to find out why my car keeps on stalling. I know i need a new cat and o2 sensor. So I'll start by replacing that.


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## internetautomart (Mar 8, 2004)

PeaceWarrior said:


> Hey all, ive been having the same problem, and Im curious - Whats an MAF? I have a book but it doesnt mention MAFs


Then you need a better book.
the maf is attached to the air filter box.
if you unplug it and the car runs fine to 2k then it may be your problem (car won't go past ~2k)


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## Edog1382 (Aug 9, 2006)

oh shit... i was thinking of the tempature sensor... Sorry... It was a late night!


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## PeaceWarrior (Oct 24, 2006)

internetautomart said:


> Then you need a better book.
> the maf is attached to the air filter box.
> if you unplug it and the car runs fine to 2k then it may be your problem (car won't go past ~2k)


so the car will stall past 2k if the maf sensor is bad? so i just unhook it and rev the engine in neutral? I saw that box on the intake. Man I hope there isnt a bunch of stuff like that missing from my book. 

Thanks for your help!


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## internetautomart (Mar 8, 2004)

it has a cutoff so it won't rev past 2k, it won't die, but it won't rev any higher


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