# 2003 X Trail random engine knock



## Teamin (Jul 31, 2016)

First post 

I have tried to locate a thread on the forum regarding an engine knock ( which sounds like the one I have. So if someone can help please shout. 
The knock is random, dosen't matter if the engine is warm or cold. 
When I put more tension ( push the bottom belt up with a bar ) the knocking stops.

I am thinking not only do the belts need changed ( they are old ) but the tensioner bearing may need replacing. I have tried the screw driver and listening technique, but I just can't pin point it.

Any advice would be much appreciated.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

*I have a knocking sound, too!*

Well, I see no one replied to this poor guy's query last July!! I wonder how he made out?
I thought I would just add my issue to his thread as his was the only one I could find about a random engine knocking sound... about a week and a half ago, I heard a new, worrisome sound from my engine. When you have as many kms as me, everything worries you!! I only notice it when iding as it seems to be covered by other engine sounds while driving. Just a light knocking/tapping sound from the area of that black cover that says 2.5 CSV on it. Are those pistons under there? It is random, and almost plasticky sounding. I have not called to make an appointment yet but wonder if anyone here has any ideas... To remind you, I am using some oil, and had had the oil changed about a week prior to this. I had gone to town earlier that day and noticed nothing unusual until taking it out again a few hours later... Thanks in advance!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly
I assume the first poster correctly diagnosed his own problem. Hard to tell with yours, but my guess is it could well be related to the timing chain tension guide. I would guess its never been changed. Nor has mine for that matter but you do have twice the kms on yours. Do a bit of research and googling. Its the QR25DE engine also found in Altimas, and Sentras. Probably best to have it looked at by your mechanic. Good luck with it.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Well, thanks, Quad! As usual! But after watching several videos of timing belt noises, this is totally different. I'll give old Grant a call Monday morning! After double checking my service history, just to see what is in there again.... Stay tuned!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

That is good news then. If you are not hearing that timing chain rattle. The first poster was getting noise from the serpentine belt area. The engine cover basically covers the engine, so what you are hearing is probably piston or combustion related. Seeing the mechanic sooner rather later is probably the best thing to do. I hope its nothing too serious or too expensive. Bonne chance!


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

So, Quad, it looks like your first suggestion may be right, but I will have to book another appointment a bit later so he has time to take it apart and look in there. After quite a bit of him listening with his stethoscope thingy and me revving the engine for him, he thinks it is coming from the timing chain area. He then showed me a blown apart view of the engine on his computer, and explained how it all worked, and what it may be. He said because it is not very loud and so random yet, he feels it does not present an immediate risk, and if I want to pursue it to come back and leave the car overnight as after he puts the cover back on, the silicone has to cure. For some reason, there is no gasket there. He is hoping it won't take more than a couple hours labour, and no parts would be needed unless one of those chain guards is cracked. He also has a scope with a camera he can poke in there. So, I will get that done later in March, I think. Anyway, if it does not get worse before then, I will post with the outcome!

Fish Creek Nissan in Calgary sent me an offer for a free 100 point inspection, valid till the end of April. I may take it in before having Grant do that work, to see if they notice anything.... :nerd:

Thanks again, Quad!!


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

molly said:


> Fish Creek Nissan in Calgary sent me an offer for a free 100 point inspection, valid till the end of April. I may take it in before having Grant do that work, to see if they notice anything.... :


I my opinion, your mechanic will give you a better inspection.
Dealer wants your $ nothing more(nothing is free).

I bought a 07 civic coupe in 2011 from a honda dealer(certified honda) and a 25 billions points inspection was made, guess what, no coolant in the expansion tank, air cabin filter dirty, air filter was not new.

St-Eustache nissan here works at 65$\h in nissans over 120000km and in the end they were 200$ more for a rear bearing change.



envoyé du throne en grimaçant kclmop


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I am with Otomodo on the ''free'' dealer inspection. It will be purely visual and they won't even remove the wheels. Your independent guy Grant has won me over with his willingness to explain things to you, and from all your reports he has done good work for you. Half the battle is finding someone you can trust. Not so sure about not replacing any parts, because it seems to me that you will probably want to change the timing chain tensioner and most likely the upper guide as well. Not sure how easy the right and left guides are to access, but if the chain is not stretched too badly you may want to consider them as well. With delivery you would be looking at about $100 in parts from RockAuto.
Its a bit of a drag but as our engines get older with higher mileages it is to expected. I may look into it as preventative maintenance.
Just found this bit from partsgeek
''Sometimes your Nissan Altima timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced. The timing chain tensioner seems to need replacing more frequently than the timing chain itself. You may hear slapping, squealing, rattling, grinding or knocking noises indicating that your chain or tensioner should be checked. These noises may result from problems with the timing chain or the timing chain tensioner. If your Nissan Altima has an upper guide, that could also be the problem. If this is the case, you can remove the upper guide and dispose of it. This is easily done by taking off the valve cover and pulling out the upper guide. While you have the valve cover off, you may want to replace the valve cover gasket as well as the spark plug tube seals to enhance your vehicle's performance. If you are having problems with your timing chain or timing chain tensioner, the cost of repairing or replacing these parts can increase the longer you wait to address these issues. Full engine failure is possible with a faulty timing chain tensioner because it will throw your timing off and cause the chain to have friction with the metal of the engine, possibly breaking the piston rings or other components.''


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks, Quad. I didn't realize you had replied till now as I didn't get a notification (again...)!! I suppose you are right about the dealer offered inspection... So the Altima engine is the same as the X-Trail? Grant said there was no gasket, but silicone, which is why I will have to leave it overnight. I guess I had better get it attended to later in March! :|


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly 
Hope the winter has been treating you kindly. Hopefully your Xie will too and it wont be anything that hugely expensive. With luck its just the tensioner and guides and not the chain itself that is too badly stretched. As for the engine, yup its the same as in the 2.5 altimas and sentras though its programmed differently. Let us know what the mechanic finds.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Here is an update... He wanted me to bring it in the night before so he could start it cold. He did all sorts of listening decided it really was not coming from the timing chain area after all. He wrote on his invoice: "Isolate to accessory drive belt area. Noise disappears when belt is removed. Tried to isolate noise with mechanic's stethoscope. Knock noise is more prevalent at the alternator." He told me the drive belt still looked good, and everything seems to be running alright despite that sound, which has not gotten any worse, really. He advised against replacing belts or alternator at this stage, and just to keep driving it. All he charged me was a half hour labour, and didn't even add on the time he spent the first time I brought it in, which I thought I would be billed for. 

Anyway, I will just drive it! Coming up on 360K.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Molly, I can't help you diagnose a knock that I can't hear, but I am pretty impressed overall with your mechanic! I think you should do whatever he says and forget the dealer's "free" inspection.

I just had my fuel filler neck recall done at a dealer and got the "free" 29 point inspection. Apparently, they think all my brake pads, rotors and calipers (all 4) need to be changed. And changed right now because the car is unsafe!

Unfortunately, for them, I had just taken my winter tires off the week before and have done my semi-annual inspection. All my rotors are fine (checked thickness and run-out with a micrometer) Rear pads are only down 40%, front pads are due for a change. Front right caliper has a small leak and needs a change or re-build, but the other 3 are in top-notch shape. They wanted $1600! I had all the parts necessary sitting at home for less than $100!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Great to hear Molly. I hope you reach 400+. 
And MikeHJ thanks for reminding everyone to take a dealer service advisor's advice with a grain of salt and to always inform yourself and seek a second opinion for any pricey repair. Sadly I am sure the fear tactic sells lots of repairs. Out of curiosity did they give you an estimate with a breakdown of the charges?


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Great to hear Molly. I hope you reach 400+.
> And MikeHJ thanks for reminding everyone to take a dealer service advisor's advice with a grain of salt and to always inform yourself and seek a second opinion for any pricey repair. Sadly I am sure the fear tactic sells lots of repairs. Out of curiosity did they give you an estimate with a breakdown of the charges?


Yeah, and the estimate was .....odd.

Front Calipers $160 each
Rear Calipers $130 each
Front rotors $146 each
Rear rotors $136 each
Front Pads $145 (Ceramic)
Rear Pads $136
Labor $200

The prices for the rotors and pads are typical dealer prices (ie ridiculously high), but the prices for the calipers are the same as rebuilt, aftermarket calipers. And the labour cost is too low for all 4 corners.

By way of contrast, Monster Brakes (Ebay) is $136 for all 4 rotors and 4 ceramic pad sets. I've used them before on other cars and never had a problem (no warping, etc.) Part Source (Cdn Tire) and Benson Auto both sell rebuilt AC Delco front calipers for $159.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the info. Actually surprised how low the price is for the Nissan Calipers, but then I realize those cannot be new and they must be keeping the core fee. I replaced my rear right one two years ago with a rebuilt from a local auto parts store and it was identical to the Nissan one I took off including part number on it. After the core refund I think it worked out to something like 80 bucks taxes included. Front ones are more expensive.
I will probably replace my front rotors and pads this weekend and the rears the next one as the replacements for the back haven't arrived yet from RockAuto.

I bet Nissan was going to give you their value advantage line which is their lower priced aftermarket stuff. Never heard of Monster Brakes. The price you are quoting is even cheaper than Prime Choice. And their stuff is pretty cheap in the worst sense.
If you have the link please post it. I can't find them on ebay.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Never heard of Monster Brakes. The price you are quoting is even cheaper than Prime Choice. And their stuff is pretty cheap in the worst sense.
> If you have the link please post it. I can't find them on ebay.


F R Rotor C Pad 2005 2006 Fits Fit Nissan XTrail | eBay

They're cheap and chinese, no doubt. And the first time I bought them, I felt that I was really taking a chance.

But I've bought them for 4 different cars. The first 2 cars I just got them to pass the safety, fully meaning to swap them out for something better at the first sign of trouble. But then one thing led to another and I never quite got around to it. Next thing I knew, it had been 2 years without an issue. I've had expensive rotors warp and I've had cheap rotors warp. The pads seem just the same as any inexpensive brand name pad I've ever bought. I don't tow, don't live in the mountains and generally am pretty easy on brakes, so your experience may differ. I won't take a chance on drilled and slotted cheapo's because they may actually crack, but I figured that. for the price, if the solid ones take a year to warp, then I still come out ahead.

I know they're cheap and chinese, but most of the "value" product lines sold by Napa, Part Source, etc. are as well. Hell, most of the "Made in the USA" rotors are chinese rotors that are drilled and slotted in the USA (just enough work to qualify as american built)


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Wow that even includes shipping. Good to know for someone looking to redo their brakes on a budget. Someone should start a parts thread, and we could all update it with these kind of finds.


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