# Electronic Rust Protection GADGETS



## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

I guess it's the time of year - - I notice these electronic rust control gadgets being advertised more these days.

Was wondering if any of our members have installed one of these devices and have any comments on their effectiveness / value.

Alternatively, anyone come up with any "reviews" of the products that they could share (or link). I've searched the net and can only seem to find "product" related info - - no independent reviews.

I did a search on this forum (and the AU forum) but did not come up with much either.

These gadgets are not inexpensive by any means - - but it is a one-off investment and if they are any good (given our climate) they might be worthy of consideration...

Comments welcome.


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## evjm (Jan 11, 2006)

I was looking for some unbiased reviews as well, but haven't found any yet. I did find an opinion against them, but it was from a Krown dealer, so take that with a grain of salt


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Canada's Far East said:


> I did a search on this forum (and the AU forum) but did not come up with much either.


You haven't looked hard enough on the AU forum Roger 

Search phrase "rust proofing" brings-up THIS thread on the AU forum with a link to a business detailing what it is.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Canada's Far East said:


> I guess it's the time of year - - I notice these electronic rust control gadgets being advertised more these days.
> 
> Was wondering if any of our members have installed one of these devices and have any comments on their effectiveness / value.
> 
> ...


Sounds like cathodic protection.

I had a similar device fixed to my '81 Mazda 323 many years ago. It used two pads wired to a black box which were attached to a bare metal portion of the car.

The device seemed to accelerate corrosion of the aluminium rivets I had on the car. It supposedly works better in a high moisture environment.

It's used in ships, and works in a way that causes sacrifical zinc-alloy anodes that are attached to the hull to corrode first.

I eventually detached it and experimented on a plate of mild steel sprayed with a saline solution - rust formed, so I guess the system didn't work as claimed, at least not without some sort of sacrifical metal attached to the surface being treated.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*Manufacturer's (or dealer's) Claims*



aussietrail said:


> You haven't looked hard enough on the AU forum Roger
> 
> Search phrase "rust proofing" brings-up THIS thread on the AU forum with a link to a business detailing what it is.


Thanks, Jalal.

Actually, I did find that thread and the link. The link provides info from the manufacturer's / dealer's / sellers perspective....I was hoping for more first hand consumer experience or a link to some independent reviews (which I can't seem to find).

One of our members (down under) who had the system installed had some favorable comments. I didn't post the question there 'cause I was hoping to hear from our Canadian members on this forum re any experience with the use of such a device in our Canadian winters / climate.

For any others who may be interested in this subject, I found any number of sites which advertise electronic rust prevention / control types of devices. Here are a few samples:

CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System - Corrosion Control

CAT Electronic Rust Prevention System - Stop Auto Rust with Electronic Rust Protection.

RustStop Electronic rust protection and rust prevention.

Couplertec Electronic Rust Protection System and Service. The best automotive rust protection system available.

Counteract New Zealand Electronic Rust Protection System and Service. The best automotive rust protection system available.

Electronic Rust Proofing / Rust Protection is better than chemical Rust Proofing

Again, while these are informative, they are from the sellers perspective and you know that they're all going to say that theirs is " the greatest invention since sliced bread".

Our Canadian Tire stores here have a unit on sale this week end - it's the "CounterAct" system which uses a process called "capactive coupling". The SUV unit is regular $349 and is on sale for $249.

From the above links it appears that they can be had in the US for less and in Au they seem to cost quite a bit more.....

I guess the question really is - are any of them any good ? do they really work ? which one is best ??

I'm a tad skeptical about a product that has not had any sort of independent review...

Cheers


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Dan's Data letters #153

Look up the section on "Rust Bug Killer"


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## giantpanda77 (Aug 5, 2006)

thanks Leongster, for the indepth comment, guess you dont need rust proof in SG, ha....nice country that i once lived for 6 years.

yeh, i actually have the same question, if it is worth to try the Electronic Rust Protection, seems traditional oil spray is still the way to go

Canadian Tire


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

LEONGSTER said:


> Dan's Data letters #153
> 
> Look up the section on "Rust Bug Killer"


Thanks LEONGSTER - this could be helpful - but I can't find it  

Could you kindly be a tad more specific on where it (rust bug killer) is located.....Thanks


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Canada's Far East said:


> Thanks LEONGSTER - this could be helpful - but I can't find it
> 
> Could you kindly be a tad more specific on where it (rust bug killer) is located.....Thanks


Roger, it's the last subject on the page entitled : "RUST BUG KILLER". Just in case, here it is:


"Rust bug killer"

I want your opinion on electronic rust prevention - specifically, the RustStop RS2000.

According to this page, it overcomes the weaknesses of electronic rustproofing by using more than one method.

I'm sceptical, but I don't want to get all messy with underseal on my rust-prone car. If this is a simple way out, I'm all for it.

Shuhel

Answer:
I'm sure the RustStop works perfectly, provided you remember to dig a big hole and bury your car in it after installing the device.

You could also drive the car into a lake. Or the ocean. That might screw up the electrics, though. The RS2000 will probably only keep working (battery charge permitting) if the car's buried.

The reason why this thing won't work on a car that's above ground is that there's no circuit between the sacrificial/impressed current anode and almost all of the rustable parts of the car. The conductive tape that you stick the anode(s) in place with means they'll protect the metal right under them just fine, but, y'know, paint'll do that too.

Passive galvanic cathodic protection (your standard "sacrificial anode" system, like when they bolt chunks of magnesium to ships below the waterline) and active impressed current cathodic protection (as used for underground pipelines and other Big Things where there's a long and lousy current path between the anodes and the metal they're protecting) both rely on the fact that the things they're protecting are lumps of metal surrounded by an electrolyte - water or earth.

Iron and steel rust essentially by forming tiny electrochemical cells anywhere that water and oxygen can get to the metal. Zero humidity air: No rust. Iron in a big box full of humid nitrogen: No rust. Iron submerged in salty water that's got no dissolved oxygen in it (which can almost be the case, deep in the ocean): No rust.

The particular curse of iron is that its rust is flaky, so more metal is continuously exposed to the air. Aluminium is much more reactive than iron and corrodes much faster, but its oxide forms a hard thin layer over the rest of the metal and protects it - if something doesn't cut the oxide layer, almost all of the metal survives indefinitely.

To protect flaky-rusting metal like iron, you attach a more reactive metal to it, applying current if necessary to boost the electrochemical path from the iron through the surrounding electrolyte to the sacrificial anode, which corrodes away instead of the iron.

You can demonstrate this effect yourself at home, quite easily; in a bucket of salty water, immerse one "tin" can (which'll actually be made out of steel these days; "tinfoil" was originally tin as well, before aluminium became cheap) and one otherwise identical can with a chunk of magnesium attached to it. Lightweight metal pencil sharpeners are cheap, and for some reason are made from a magnesium alloy, as everybody who had a cool science teacher in high school should already know.

Any way of attaching the magnesium that gives it metal-to-metal contact to the can will do - not glue, but just tying it on with some steel wire would do.

Can A will rust. Can B should remain pristine, while the sharpener slowly disappears. If you leave it long enough, the magnesium will vanish entirely, and then Can B will rust.

Try the same stunt with the two cans just sitting outdoors exposed to the elements, though, and the piece of Can B right under the sharpener will stay unrusted, while the rest of it rusts as normal, because there's no surrounding electrolyte. Rain will form a current path from the magnesium to the steel for a short distance around the sharpener, but most of the can will be unprotected most of the time, and applying a voltage to it won't help.

Modern steel-bodied cars have high quality galvanised panels as a matter of course anyway, which has largely eliminated the rapid-and-serious rust problems that people used to know and hate. They'll still rust eventually, of course, but if you don't scratch the finish and/or expose it to lots of particularly inclement weather, I wouldn't be surprised if a 2005 Toyota Corolla remained cancer-free 20 years from now. Maybe even longer.

A 1985 Alfa Romeo will, of course, probably fit in a matchbox today.

The only really foolproof rust prevention system, of course, is to use one or another "stainless" metal. We may see more stainless steel used in cars in the future, but seeing as it's historically been more expensive than aluminium - which, in turn, is far more expensive than carbon steel - I wouldn't hold my breath for it to show up in many affordable vehicles, if I were you.

There've been a few cathodic protection gizmos for cars in the past, none of which have worked, but the RustStop people insist their product isn't like all those other Scams Engineered By The Barely Literate.

RustStop is stated on various pages to be "the only system to successfully combine both Impressed Current and Sacrificial Anode technologies"... except that impressed current is just a way of making sacrificial anodes work better, so, uh, every impressed current system, uh, combines the "technologies".

They also say that the RS2000 has been "independently tested by an unrelated company" and shown to work, but they won't say who that "unrelated company" was, or where the results can be found. They mention the "tests" over and over, but keep unaccountably forgetting to fill in those blanks.

Instead, they offer testimonials.

No, wait - those are some other equally reliable testimonials. The RustStop ones are here.

And, in a side point, the ruststoponline.com domain is registered by my fellow Australian, Paul Barrs. As get-rich-quick artists go, he does not appear to be a particularly notorious one. But he's still a get-rich-quick artist. Make of this what you will.

While you're making of it what you will, you might also like to make what you will of the RustStop site's numerous irrelevant-link pages, presumably intended to make it look all hip to search engines.

A concept related to impressed current cathodic protection, by the way, is electrolytic rust removal. It really works, and amazingly well; you can use it to do tricks like cleaning up ancient tools so well that you can read the maker's name stamped on them.

To do it, you need an alkaline bath. Some sodium bicarbonate or carbonate in water will do; professional shops use sodium hydroxide, but bicarb or washing soda won't turn your hands to soap nearly as quickly. I've found a large cat litter tray makes a great cheap bath for various hand-tool-sized objects.

You also need a DC power supply. A car battery charger or surplus PC PSU should be just dandy; some sources recommend quite weedy power supplies, because they are weak and have no honour. If you're de-rusting something really big and want the job done inside a week, you'll need a lot of current capacity and enough voltage to push that current through the solution, so something scary like a DC arc welder could be called for.

The last piece of the recipe is a piece of iron you really don't care about. For small jobs, another "tin" can will do. Any plain iron or steel is suitable, but, as a reader reminded me, you should not use stainless steel for this sacrificial electrode unless you feel you need more chromates in your diet.

Connect the object to be cleaned to the negative terminal of your power supply, the sacrificial iron to the positive terminal (don't dip a positive-terminal alligator clip into the bath unless you want it to get eaten), submerge both pieces of metal in the bath without letting them touch, and turn on the juice.

The result will be bubbles, the rapid destruction of the sacrificial iron with lots of 'orrible red gunk accumulating in the bath, and the mystic disappearance of the rust on the object to be cleaned. Just running some water over the cleaned object should remove the loose gunk sitting on it afterwards.

This process verges on the magical the first time you see it, but all it does is remove iron oxide while preserving iron. Actually, technically, it eats a tiny amount of good metal where rust used to be, converting it into a super-thin layer of black oxide. Shiny steel won't be changed.

This process won't, however, regenerate the maker's name on some amorphous blob of oxide that someone dropped in your garden in 1952. The makers of some RustStop-ish gadgets apparently make regenerative claims (or their testimonials do, anyway...). The continuing health of the Bondo Corporation would appear to contradict them.

But since, to borrow a quack medicine favourite, healthy tissue is not harmed, this is by definition the world's least destructive de-rusting technique.

Electrolytic de-rusting does leave a very, very rustable fresh surface, though; anywhere that used to be rusty will now be black and ready to rust again, so as soon as you pull the item out of the bicarb bath, you should give it a coat of oil.

For in-situ de-rusting of bits of cars, houses, battleships and so on, the best quick solution is phosphoric acid products - phosphoric acid is the active ingredient in various "rust converter" paints. The very thought of "naval jelly", however, induces involuntary twitches in many of the world's military personnel for very good reason. If you're going to have to use much of the stuff, serious thought should be given to just selling the car or ship to a suitably gullible person or nation. "


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

giantpanda77 said:


> thanks Leongster, for the indepth comment, guess you dont need rust proof in SG, ha....nice country that i once lived for 6 years.
> 
> yeh, i actually have the same question, if it is worth to try the Electronic Rust Protection, seems traditional oil spray is still the way to go
> 
> Canadian Tire


Hi Giantpanda! 

Actually we DO need rust protection in SGP - I used to live up North and now am living in the East Coast - the air in both places is SALTY - due to the winds and proximity to the sea. You should see the amount of rust that forms over a just few days on unsealed metal - SCARY! Even WD 40 doesn't work for long...

I have tried just about every known method of rust-proofing from DIY galvanising to Electronic Cathodic Protection.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

LEONGSTER said:


> Roger, it's the last subject on the page entitled : "RUST BUG KILLER". Just in case, here it is:
> 
> 
> Answer:
> ...


LEONGSTER:

Thanks ever so much for this - appreciate your effort and am sure it will be of value to other members who may be considering this option for rust prevention.

This is the first good review that I've seen on this type of system - it's is both informative and helpful.

The specific system under review was the RustStop RS2000 which uses "sacrificial" anodes. I've seen some other systems that use these as well and apparently the anodes need to be replaced from time to time as they become corroded.

One of the systems that I've looked at is the CounterAct electronic rust protection, which is sold in several Countries. In Canada it's being marketed by our Canadian Tire stores.

You mentioned in an earlier reply *"Sounds like cathodic protection"* - this one seems to work on a process called "capactive coupling" - here's what they say about that :

"The CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System uses a unique patented process called "capactive coupling" to create a negative surface charge on metal, delivering a protective charge that serves to provide rust protection to the entire vehicle body and into hidden areas where rust starts. This negative surface charge and its corresponding electrostatic field create a reduction in the rate at which the corrosion process may occur. CounterAct technology *should not be confused with conventional rustproofing methods such as 'impressed current cathodic' protection*, which is commonly used in underground or underwater environments, but not in the open air. The revolutionary CounterAct electronic rust protection system sets itself apart from these more traditional methods *because it was specially designed to operate in a free open air environment*, providing effective rust proofing solutions for today's driver".

The *bold print *is my editing.

Clearly, this is the manufactures sales pitch. 

Having read the article you posted, this system seems to operate in a different way - no "sacrificial" anodes for example.

Most of the available systems are somewhat expensive and not all are available in Canada, which adds to their cost with shipping, possible duty and taxes. I'm considering this particular system because it's available "locally", more reasonably priced (even on sale at the moment) and "may" afford some extra level of protection.

I don't think any of these systems will totally "prevent" rust (especially in our climate) but my hope is that they would at least slow down the process somewhat.

Too bad there are not more independent reviews to help one make an informed decision.

Again, many thanks for your help.

Cheers = Roger


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## giantpanda77 (Aug 5, 2006)

hi LEONGSTER, woo..that surprises me, i thought SG would be different from Canada, where excessive salt used to de-ice the road during winter.


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## ejm (Nov 14, 2004)

Hi Everyone

Check This web site-
CAP Final Coat - Car Care Products, Undercoating,Electronic Rust Inhibitor
Two local Nissan Dealers use their products which include an electronic rust control module and a reverse parking sensor system. Guelph Nissan no longer uses their spray- on rust inhibitor. They only use the module. 
When I bought my X-trail almost two and a half years ago I was not aware of the module and had my truck sprayed so I can't provide any info on their effectiveness.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Roger, you're most welcomed.

Giantpanda - I concur, the salty slush you get on Canadian roads is probably as bad as it gets, and I should not be complaining about the air we get here.

EJM's link went to an interesting site - it explained how the system works in lay terms and looks like it was written by someone that actually understands the science behind it.

The idea of negatively charging the bodywork to prevent it rusting is interesting. I plan to try a simple (read 'cheap') experiment to see if this actually works.

1) I'll attach two unipolar magnets to a plate of bare mild steel, in such a way that they repel one another with the steel "sandwiched" in between.

2) I'll place the north pole face of each magnet in contact with the metal. (North pole supposedly creates a negative charge). Then I'll either spray this plate with a saline solution or dunk part of it in some salt water and wait a few days.

If it works, there should be no or little corrosion compared to another plate I'll use as the 'control'set, which is simply sprayed with saline or dunked.

When you all stop laughing maybe give it a try yourselves and let's see if it works!


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## giantpanda77 (Aug 5, 2006)

right, but when dealer recommend this to me, price tag is around $2000 , compared to a few hundred dollars for something similar from canadiantire



ejm said:


> Hi Everyone
> 
> Check This web site-
> CAP Final Coat - Car Care Products, Undercoating,Electronic Rust Inhibitor
> ...


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## ejm (Nov 14, 2004)

ejm said:


> Hi Everyone
> 
> Check This web site-
> CAP Final Coat - Car Care Products, Undercoating,Electronic Rust Inhibitor
> ...


I want to clarify that although Guelph Nissan used to use Final Coat products they don't use Final Coat's rust module. They use one called Auto Saver


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## bmovie (Jun 14, 2006)

I was in an Acura dealership, and was ready to buy an MDX to go along with my X-Trail. They sell this electronic device and fully endorse it. The guy told me (he was an engeneer) that they use similar device on ships and have been using them in Toronto on our salt trucks. I asked him about the Canadian Tire unit and he said it's the same thing they sell. The only difference is if it breaks Acura (under your warranty) will replace the unit, where the Canadian Tire one, you only get the manufacturer's warranty.
The way he explained how it works, sold me. I was going to Canadian Tire to get one to put in my X-Trail.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

bmovie said:


> I was in an Acura dealership, and was ready to buy an MDX to go along with my X-Trail. They sell this electronic device and fully endorse it. The guy told me (he was an engeneer) that they use similar device on ships and have been using them in Toronto on our salt trucks. I asked him about the Canadian Tire unit and he said it's the same thing they sell. The only difference is if it breaks Acura (under your warranty) will replace the unit, where the Canadian Tire one, you only get the manufacturer's warranty.
> The way he explained how it works, sold me. *I was going to Canadian Tire to get one to put in my X-Trail. *


Here's a tip re the installation - - 

the instruction booklet tells the installer to place the *green ground wire * a *minimum of 35 inches (90 cms) from the coupler pad -* - if you don't point out the importance of this to them, they may just put it in a "convenient" location, which may be too close for the unit to operate properly.

You need this separation so that the protective charge does not immediately return to ground. If the ground is placed too close to the coupler the charge WILL drain to ground instead of passing over the surface and providing the protection that you're paying to get.

How / why do I know this ??

I'm contemplating the purchase of one of these CounterAct units and have been in touch directly with the Manufacturer who has provided the above info....

Additionally, you should try to have the couplers placed as close as possible to both the front and rear of the vehicle to provide optimal protection for the entire vehicle...

Hope this helps.

Cheers = Roger


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## Ice512 (Oct 16, 2006)

Honestly, why spend $300 for rustproofing when you can get it done for $150..?? Same effects, double the cost. Does the word "gadgets" really worth that extra $150 ? Besides, who here really drives their car till it dies ?


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## bmovie (Jun 14, 2006)

Ice512 said:


> Honestly, why spend $300 for rustproofing when you can get it done for $150..?? Same effects, double the cost. Does the word "gadgets" really worth that extra $150 ? Besides, who here really drives their car till it dies ?



I drive drive my cars until they die....I have had a 15 year old CRX and now still have a 15 year old 91 honda civic and my 06 x-trail.

the civic is too small for my family and thinking of getting something bigger than the xtrail.

when you spend tens of thousands of dollars why not take care of it? Are we that much a throw away society?


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

Awhile back while looking for a used second vehicle, I came across one that turned out to be from Ontario. 

The vehicle was rusty and while looking in the engine bay I noticed a module mounted on the fire wall. It was one of these electronic anti-rust devices , and judging from the amount of rust on the vehicle I thought to myself ... another product that over promises and under delivers.


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## Lukasz (Oct 14, 2004)

Take a look at this website: Dan's Data letters #153
It was posted earlier in this thread bye Leongster. Based on what this guy says, the device works pretty much only when it is in direct contact with lectrolyte - water or earth (As the guys says.) 
Cheers
Lukasz


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

This morning I browsed three books on corrosion prevention. I didn't jot down details, but this is worth mentioning:

With either "Anodic" or "Cathodic" systems, a simple malfunction can actually ACCELERATE corrosion.

I'd carefully consider other options before parting cold cash for what is essentially a system meant for protecting underground pipes, ships and storgage tanks containing corrosive substances.

(They may be used on heavy equipment -but I suspect these vehicles carry corrosive loads.)

On the X-trail, the most likely places to rust are 

1) The point where front fender meets lower chassis at the leading edge of the front door (traps a lot of dirt and leaves).
2) The front subframe's lower leading and trailing edges.
3) The tailpipe, especially if there's a stainless tip installed (mild steel, being the less noble metal, is the first to go)
4) Bottom of doors, where there are drain holes that salt can get into.

Having said that, here's an interesting link to the wunnerful world of corrosion engineering. Don't think it helps much with cars though:

Corrosioneering journal


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## x-trail extreme (Jul 24, 2006)

Does anyone else have this in their x-trail? Platinum Shield Protection (Corrosion module).
I have it installed in mine and i'm curious to know if it comes stock in Canadian 2006 X-trail models. I didn't ask for one to be installed.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*Option ??*



x-trail extreme said:


> Does anyone else have this in their x-trail? Platinum Shield Protection (Corrosion module).
> I have it installed in mine and I'm curious to know if it comes stock in Canadian 2006 X-trail models. I didn't ask for one to be installed.


Further down in this thread a member noted that the dealer was asking some $2k for the rust protection system......ergo, doubt that it's a give away  nice thought though.

My dealer puts a number of accessories on the X-T that they put in the showroom. When a customer wants a model like that and they don't have one in stock, they will oft times sell the one from the showroom.

A "savvy" consumer will quickly say "I don't want those extras (especially to the ones that they can't easily remove) and I'm not going to pay for them". And, "I don't want to wait for you to order me one - so I guess I'll have to go back to Honda or Toyota".....

Guess what usually happens - a bunch of "freebie" accessories.

Don't know if this was the case for you or not.

Another possibility - sometimes the "demos" are equipped differently....

In any event, 99.9% sure it's not a standard feature and if you got it as a "freebie" then it won't cost anything for you to see if these things actually work.

Cheers = Roger


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*Give it a try.*



bmovie said:


> I drive drive my cars until they die....I have had a 15 year old CRX and now still have a 15 year old 91 honda civic and my 06 x-trail.
> 
> the civic is too small for my family and thinking of getting something bigger than the xtrail.
> 
> when you spend tens of thousands of dollars why not take care of it? Are we that much a throw away society?


Hey guys:

Thanks for all the feed-back / input on the subject of "Electronic" rust protection.

There appear to be 2 schools of thought on their effectiveness. And, the web searches I have done have returned a similar scenario.

As I'm of the same mind-set as bmovie above re the investment in this vehicle (I do plan on keeping this one) I decided to have a go at it. I got this one from Canadian Tire - on sale for $249 :



Here's one of the Contact Pads - the other one is in the rear opposite corner of the vehicle:



This thing has a 5 year warranty. With installation it ran around $325, so the cost per year is something like $65 over the warranty period.

Will it work ? Is it any good ? Are "a fool and his money soon parted" ? - - remains to be seen - - only time will tell.

If anyone would like any more or specific info on the CounterAct system, here's the link to their web site.

CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System - Corrosion Control

Again, thanks to all for the input.

Cheers = Roger


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

That engine bay's clean enough to eat off!

Would you believe I found my old RustStoper 2000 today? I can attest to one thing - after 20 years in a damp old cupboard the thing didn't have one spot of corrosion on it ;-)

It's only got three wires going into the black box, and two graphite-looking pads inside a plastic case each (the die-electric tape was taken off years ago).

Hee hee, maybe I can 'upgrade' mine to the latest model once I figure out where the two extra wires in yours go.

(just kidding)


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

LEONGSTER said:


> That engine bay's clean enough to eat off!
> 
> Would you believe I found my old RustStoper 2000 today? I can attest to one thing - after 20 years in a damp old cupboard the thing didn't have one spot of corrosion on it ;-)
> 
> ...


With only 4K on the engine, the bay should be clean  

See, there you go - these things work for at least 20 years  

5 wires:
Red to battery positive.
Black to battery negative.
Green to ground on vehicle.
Blue is front coupler
White is rear coupler.

From what I've read of some of your posts, you just might try to Jerry-rig something out of it :crazy: 

Have fun - life is short  

Cheers = Roger


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Canada's Far East said:


> With only 4K on the engine, the bay should be clean
> 
> See, there you go - these things work for at least 20 years
> 
> ...


You know what Rog, I may just do that. Thanks for the wiring guide - appreciate it.

Effectively you've saved me a few bucks. Good for a few beers next time you're in town!


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## bmovie (Jun 14, 2006)

Canada's Far East said:


> This thing has a 5 year warranty. With installation it ran around $325, so the cost per year is something like $65 over the warranty period.
> 
> Cheers = Roger



Thanks for the pictures....I was wondering if it voids nissans warranty. I am leasing my vehicle and plan to purchase it. A friend of mine got one of these for his BMW and they told him it would void his warranty. Just curious. I plan to get one of these things.

thanks again for the pictures


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

bmovie said:


> Thanks for the pictures....I was wondering if it voids nissans warranty. I am leasing my vehicle and plan to purchase it. A friend of mine got one of these for his BMW and they told him it would void his warranty. Just curious. I plan to get one of these things.
> 
> thanks again for the pictures


Thoughts of voiding the warrant never entered my mind - can't see why it would.

Since I installed it, I've been back to the dealer and their only question was "how come you didn't buy our rust protection" ? - other than that, no comment.

I'm due for 6K service in Dec. - I'll make it a point to ask specifically...

Cheers = Roger


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## counteract (Jan 26, 2007)

I bought the counteract unit from Canadian Tire just one month ago since it was on special. I installed it on a 6 year old pickup truck which has very minimal rust (I usually wash the salt off as soon as the temperature warms up so I wouldn't expect much rust). Time will tell if the rust gets any worse using this device. If it works as described the rusting should slow down 80%. 

Anyway, here's some info on a problem I found . The unit has a light that flashes 2 times per second. On my unit I noticed the light stopped flashing after the first week except when the truck was running. As it turns out the unit turns itself off when the battery voltage goes below 12volts. This is apparently a feature to leave your battery with 25% capacity. However, all batteries are not created equal and as temperature decreases the same voltage can actually mean a 50% or higher capacity. So, when the temperature is low as it is in the winter and with my battery which is not brand new, the unit is always off when the temperature is below approx 0 deg C. So it is currently providing very little protection when my truck needs it the most. At least the temperature is -20C nowdays so the salt is not rusting much. Options, buy a new $200 battery, or install a small secondary battery to power the antirust circuit or put a trickle charger on the battery. Sigh. I would rather not have the voltage cutoff, maybe a switch or jumper to give the consumer the choice. I provided my feedback to CounterAct.

Good luck.


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## giantpanda77 (Aug 5, 2006)

thanks counteract for sharing, want to see your feedback review later.


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## Tiff (Dec 17, 2007)

I found this forum while debating with myself on which rust protection method to go with: The Anti Corrosion Module that my Nissan Dealer is selling for $600 or a Spray Protection from a third party for $200. I think I'm going to go with the spray and then buy the module from Canadian Tire next time it goes on sale.

I have to say this forum has been helpful. I believe I have a little more faith in the module, however I don't believe I'm going to buy it from the dealer, because it sounds like I'm paying a heafty price for it there.

Regardless I'm excited to be driving my first car within the next 7-10 days (a Nissan Versa).

Has anyone on this forum, ever had the 3-M taping treatment done? My commute to work is a 100k round trip on the highway and I really don't want unsightly chips on the hood and mirrors of my new car.


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## Owen K. (Feb 22, 2007)

I have the 3M clear tape/bra applied on my hood. It looks awesome, You can barely notice it there. I liked it better than the hood deflector. It looks cleaner and in the long run you'll be glad you got it. I'm getting it applied for my headlights and bumper as well.


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## B00GEYMAN (Feb 17, 2008)

Last fall I purchased a new 2008 Kia Rondo for my wife and was convinced by the salesman to buy the dealers "package" that included fabric protection, paint sealant and their new electronic rust control module. I checked around and didn't like the answers I found on the "new" electronic gadget so I took the car to my local Krown dealer and had it oil sprayed too. Hopefully with both rust control measures it may slow down the inevitable premature rusting here in Ontario. At least I know Krown works provided it's done at least annually as my 10 year old Windstar proves. The only catch is the oil spray is only as good as the guy that's doing the spraying. I chose a Krown dealer with over 20 years experience. As far as the gadget goes, maybe it works and maybe it doesn't but I don't want to trust a $25,000 car to maybe's.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*UPDATE (or not)*

Hey folks:

Had a PM from a fellow member inquiring about the CounterAct Unit and it's effectiveness.....he suggested that others might be interested in my reply - so, I'm posting a copy here:

*Secondly, appreciate your suggestion to share my experience - not only with you - but our fellow members....I'll do just that after I give you first dibs on the experience...

And, for the BIG question :- does it work ? ? ?

I really don't know for sure !! BUT, I think/believe that it does or will.

My X-T is 26 months old with approx. 42.5 Ks on the clock and there is no sign of rust anywhere after 2 winters in Newfoundland where we get a lot of moisture (salt) in the air and precepitation...

I also had the "Rust Check" type of application (Krown) applied in Sept. 06 & again in Sept. 07.....

I decided not to have it done this year.....it does make somewhat of a mess. That being said, this winter may give a better indication of the effectiveness (or not) of the CounterAct unit.

If I had to do it over, I would invest in it again. They go on sale at Canadian Tire for $200 and that's a small price to pay, even for "potential" preventative maintenance on a $30K machine.*

Now that I look back at one of the original posts, my cost figures may be a tad off...

Cheers to all = Roger








Canada's Far East said:


> Hey guys:
> 
> Thanks for all the feed-back / input on the subject of "Electronic" rust protection.
> 
> ...


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## MonLand (Nov 25, 2009)

*Any update?*

So.... After a year of use and no other spraying, that's the verdict? Rust or no rust?


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## tbk (Dec 29, 2008)

You will not be able to determine the effectiveness of these units on the x-trail in the current time frame. Standard automotive exposed steel sheeting is subject to a G90 zinc coating. This will allow for an estimated 5 years of protection in a saline environment, (bad designs, or manufacturing defects like the 2005 wheel well not withstanding,). The exy has plastic front body panels, and a decent non-water trapping design else where. Perforation rust usually results from condensation building up on the inside (non painted, faraday trapped) portions of your car and essentially dissolving the the zinc layer over time. By spraying the car you create a boundry between the zinc and the water. So Far East has added at least two years to time which he would see rust forming on the exy. So you will not see anything for quite some time. My exy never had any rust proofing done, (I bought in 2009 its a 2006) and in southern ontario, we love our salt. It doesn't show any signs of rust at all, neither do any of the other exy's around here. Honestly, the oil rust proofing is the cheapest, most effective way of protecting your body panels. Cathodic protection (electronic modules) can work, but it has many ways of failing.


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

Among the many potential ways for electronic rustproofing to fail, is driving your car above water. That's the big mistake people with electronic rust protection make, I find.


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*SPOT (not rust) ON*



tbk said:


> You will not be able to determine the effectiveness of these units on the x-trail in the current time frame. Standard automotive exposed steel sheeting is subject to a G90 zinc coating. This will allow for an estimated 5 years of protection in a saline environment, (bad designs, or manufacturing defects like the 2005 wheel well not withstanding,). The exy has plastic front body panels, and a decent non-water trapping design else where. Perforation rust usually results from condensation building up on the inside (non painted, faraday trapped) portions of your car and essentially dissolving the the zinc layer over time. By spraying the car you create a boundry between the zinc and the water. So Far East has added at least two years to time which he would see rust forming on the exy. So you will not see anything for quite some time. My exy never had any rust proofing done, (I bought in 2009 its a 2006) and in southern ontario, we love our salt. It doesn't show any signs of rust at all, neither do any of the other exy's around here. Honestly, the oil rust proofing is the cheapest, most effective way of protecting your body panels. Cathodic protection (electronic modules) can work, but it has many ways of failing.


I think tbk has got it figured pretty good.....

Given that it would take some significant time to do an appropriate evaluation of this product, I'd be more inclined (currently) to the Krown (oil spray) type of solution to any potential rust issues - - there's no question that they have a great track record in the industry.

I've seen lots of "treated" vehicles from both Ontario & Newfoundland, which are both somewhat famous (a dubious distinction) for rust issues due to "salt" and "moisture" and they have stood up very well.

That being said, they are still "messy" and your mechanic will bitch a lot if / when he has to do any electrical system work.

While I no longer have the X-T, I know the current owner and he says it's standing up quite well and there are no rust issues whatsoever.

Keeping in touch from time to time and with cheers = Roger


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## mike_smith (Sep 18, 2010)

*Electronic Rust Protection System*

Hey Canada's Far East,

The sites you mentioned in your post are great but I think Roe Marketing website featuring the CAT SYSTEM Rust Prevention is the best amongst all.

They not only inform about how the rust process works but also explain about how the electronic rust protection works to stop it, along with the benefits of the system and the testimonials of the clients.

I guess I know where I'll put my money


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## kench (Nov 12, 2010)

*Battery drained by electronic rust proofing module*

Does anyone else have problems with their battery going dead after a few days? We have had the battery replaced, check by the dealership and even so had to jump start the XTrail 4 or 5 time. The most telling was 10 days after a full check out and charging by the deal the battery was too low to turn over the engine. Normally the cars goes back and forth for a few miles worth every day and even that has caused problems on cold days. Running for a few months now, not starting the car a for a couple of weeks but with the module disconnected and no problems with the battery. Dealership doesn't know what to do.


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## Jednet (Apr 30, 2016)

*Electronic rust control WORKS!*

Sorry guys, had to post in this thread, as I am an owner of a 2000 VW Passat, which originated in Honolulu, spent 6 years on Maui with me, and is now in CT!

The box next to the battery is labled BODYGARD, and you can google it.

My car is 16 years old, and there is not one sign of corrosion whatsoever, it is showroom 'new' in that sense.

These DO work, however, I am sure there may be 'knock-offs' that might not do the trick. Anyways, in my case, indeed it took 16 years of 'working' to see the amazing benefit of zero rust.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Plenty of REAL science out there that'll tell you that these "Electronic Rust Control" things can't and don't work. Works about as well as electric superchargers.
I've got a '98 200SX that's spent all it's life in Minnesota and North Dakota. Plenty of salt in Minnesota. Not as much in North Dakota, but enough. No rust here. AND no 'electronic rust' boxes.
You think maybe regular car washes might have something to do with it? Hmmm... Maybe???

A sample size of one does NOT mean "These DO work".
A sample size of one means that you don't have any rust on your car. Period.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Are dealers still trying to sell this scam to people? As Jdg points out these have been thoroughly discredited and the so called scientific basis is simply not applicable to the real world situation of a car. Your VW lasted due to galvinization and good paint. Some wax and regular washes helped along the way. I am really curious what lead you here to proclaim your "truth"?


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## HarveyS (Feb 25, 2020)

Canada's Far East said:


> I guess it's the time of year - - I notice these electronic rust control gadgets being advertised more these days.
> 
> Was wondering if any of our members have installed one of these devices and have any comments on their effectiveness / value.
> 
> ...


I purchased a 2009 Nissan Sentra. I purchased the Sym-Tech electronic rust proof system with the car. In 2018, I had ZERO rust on the car. Unfortunately my module was stolen leaving me without protection. Now in 2020, my car is full of rust. These devices work!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Nope, but belief trumps science these days.


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