# Save the se-r



## Ghost.45693 (Oct 21, 2020)

So I recently picked up an 05 se-r from a friend and it definately needed some love as far as maintenance. I did plugs, coils, valve covers and gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, pcv, oil cooler gasket, oil pan, air filter and oil change. I think that’s it but anyway everything went til I started it back up and it was smoking like a bitch. As it warmed up it slowed but won’t stop. I’ve changed back to old pcv thinking maybe new one was defective and no help. Any ideas? Valve covers are brand new but I saw a post somewhere about someone getting faulty valve cover causing smoke and I’m hoping that’s not the case as the old ones plug seals were absolutely shot which was one of the main issues I wanted to fix. Any help would be appreciated


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Is the smoke white vapor or is it blue or is it black?
White smoke - Usually means a blown head gasket, but could be a cracked head or block.
Blue smoke - Burning oil due to worn rings.
Black smoke - Very rich mixture.

An easy way to test for oil burning is to first fully warm up the motor. Stand behind the car. Have someone rev the motor to 4,000 RPM and hold at that RPM for about 15 seconds. If you see a lot of blue smoke come out of the tailpipe, the motor is burning excessive oil.


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## Ghost.45693 (Oct 21, 2020)

It’s not coolant it’s definately oil. It’s not super blue it almost looks like coolant smoke but it’s def oil. Anyways it didn’t burn oil really before the tune up besides from leaking valve cover gaskets and plug seals. Now all the sudden it’s constant smoke. I’m pretty sure it’s getting in thru the pcv or intake, I’m almost positive that it’s a faulty valve cover


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## Ghost.45693 (Oct 21, 2020)

So figured it out finally after the car sitting fir months and months and months. There was a little rubber/foam piece used for packing in the inside of the valve cover over the pvc valve. I found that put it all back together to find a completelty dead battery and the car was throwing no comm codes. Put brand new battery in and car cranks fine and shows rpm signal on tach and scan tool. Getting codes fir p1111 and p1136 so I removed the manifold again then scanned it again after disconnecting the vvt solenoid on bank one and testing for power and ground at connector and it’s good. Could this solenoid be causing the no start or is there a crank cam relearn or something I’m missing? I’m an Audi guy and have 2 stage 2 jackal v8 s4s and a stage 2 jhm b7 a4 and work on them all myself and have worked on cars my whole life but not familiar with this situation and nissans. By the way I started another thread consenting the new situation, sry about that. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

At this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:

* Testing fuel delivery:
An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel rail and connect it to a long length of spare hose with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.

If the engine is unable to start, Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. The fuel pressure reading should be around 51 psi which would be a static reading.

The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.

* Testing ignition:
Pull one or more coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.

* The cam timing may be incorrect:
Check for a broken chain guide. See if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak:
Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.


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