# 93 altima AT not starting



## frankoii (Nov 21, 2004)

Has anyone had this same problem? I was driving my car one day, driving somewhat aggressively, when i got to a red light and had to stop. I drive my car with the O/D off because we all know it feels more sporty that way! So then, I tapped the breaks and then i stepped harder. All of a sudden i heard the engine make a sort of winding down noise (revs dropping) it sounded kinda sluggish. Then it turned off on me. Breaks felt like i was stepping on a brick rather than a pedal and that was that. After i got pushed by some kind person, neutral and the whole deal. I tried to turn on the car and it did for about 2 seconds then did winding down noise it had done before. I did this about 4-5 times until it wouldnt even idle at all.
My father and i are amateur mechanics and we tried some logical things such as the spark test, no spark. we tested the ignition coil resistance, all cool. Distributor cap is new, rotor is new. The rotor spins fine. Starter's working. Gas pump's cool too. In cabin electronics working fine, radio, alarm, lights the whole shebang it just wont start.
My father thinks it might be a power "transistor",i cant remember exact name but its mounted between the air filter box and the wide black tube for the intake, where they meet. but then it could be the spark plug cables. 
if anyone has had these problems please post replys about your experiences. I appreciate it.


----------



## ultimatuc (May 1, 2004)

so it cranks, but no start/ spark?

if its not cranking, I'd check the park/ neutral safety switch.

get yourself a Haynes manual.


----------



## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

The problem sounds like a bad cam angle sensor in the distributor but it could also a bad power transistor to check that use an ohm meter
(ABC) looking at it with the connector lock on top, + on A, - on B = no continuity, - on A, + on B = continuity. 
Also check the ECU for codes as that can give you a little more diagnostic help.

Troy


----------



## frankoii (Nov 21, 2004)

*It was the distributor!*

Distributor camshaft sensor was full of oil and therefore stopped working.
Thank you all for your helpful hints. I went out and bought and bought a distributor, KA24TECH i had already checked the resistance on the power trans but that wasnt the problem as i initially thought, my father and i installed it and sure enough it started up and was reving in no time. Back to life. But we forgot to oil the distributor on the side that goes into the head and now find myself with a broken camshaft due to an incorrectly seated distributor.
Please oil your distributors before putting them on. And take your time doing any type of mechanical work becuase as was our situation we were in a hurry and made a rookie mistake. Now im left waiting for a garage mechanic that is dragging as due to his overwhelming car load. The good news is that now the mechanic is going to replace all of the old gaskets that are found on the currently leaking motor. Speaking of which if someone can direct me towards a place where i can get some good gaskets, a turbonetics 8psi turbo might come in the future, i would appreciate it. Oh yeah almost forgot my engine cover or top whatever you want to call it is going to be painted metallic red a la SR20DT, kew! i might take before and after pics
Q: Anyone know where i can get some camshafts(hollow or some sort performance enhancing because the motor is going to be torn apart anyway)? also if anyone can offer any information about how to go about doing a self install i would appreciate it.
-_-' sorry about the novel like writing but i like writing.


----------



## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

Sorry to hear about the problems, but I hope things work out for the better. The cams from Jim Wolf Technology are extremely good new performance cams also Colt Cams has a good performance regrind. The gaskets are up to you, but I used mostly Nissan factory gaskets with the head gasket as the only exception with a metal gasket from Cometic. If you are rebuilding it you may consider upgrading the pistons and the rods too. If you need any advice I may be able to be of assistance.

Troy


----------



## frankoii (Nov 21, 2004)

*Problem solved*

thanks for all the info everybody! The mechanic finally got around to it and replaced the broken cam and car is running great. New valve cover gasket seems to have solved the leak problem. Also, got my power coated "red top" valve cover, it looks sweet! :thumbup:


----------



## smi7ie (Jan 3, 2005)

*Help*

I have a 93 Altima that was rear ended the other day and now it wont start, it has irratic spark, and when it does start if it does it, you cannot give it any gas or it dies out, and it was fine before getting rear ended


----------



## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

It sounds like a problem with the Mass Air Flow meter. The MAF is located next to the air box and has a wide plug. Try starting it and then unplugging the MAF, if the idle smooths out then that is definitely the problem.
Also I recommend posting a new thread instead of continuing an old one, just because a response may come sooner.

Troy


----------



## smi7ie (Jan 3, 2005)

KA24Tech said:


> It sounds like a problem with the Mass Air Flow meter. The MAF is located next to the air box and has a wide plug. Try starting it and then unplugging the MAF, if the idle smooths out then that is definitely the problem.
> Also I recommend posting a new thread instead of continuing an old one, just because a response may come sooner.
> 
> Troy




Thank you for atleast taking the time to reply, I found out what it was today, like the first post here it was the distrubitor full of oil. Thanks again.


----------

