# Exposed/Broken Ball Joint - Advice?



## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

I was doing my front brakes today and while the car was lifted up I noticed a exposed ball joint, it looks as if the ball joint broke and seperated. When I lowered the car back down the ball joint went back into place, but I think I finally solved the "popping" noise I hear going over bumps. 

I am not very saavy when it comes to cars, so I don't really know what to do. Is this something I can fix myself? 

The ball joint is the lower one, closer to the rear of the car.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I can't tell you what you can or cannot fix, but I can tell you that a bad or broken ball joint makes the vehicle unsafe to drive. Nissan doesn't sell the lower ball joint seperately; it is only available as part of the control arm assy. US and Mexico models use differant part numbers for the control arms (US models have a "1" as the first digit of the VIN and Mexican models start with a "3"). On the aftermarket, both control arms and replacement ball joints are available. The ball joints must be pressed into the control arm, if that is the route you choose. In either case I would recommend a wheel alignment afterwards. You should be able to get R&R instructions at the free repair guide section at AutoZone Auto Parts Stores | Get In The Zone! | AutoZone.com. You will need to register to use them.


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

Nahhhh, but a balljoint from a parts store. A snap ring holds it into the control arm. Just need jack, jackstands, snap ring pliers, and a big ass hammer.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I would rather press in the new joint than risk damaging it with the "big hammer" method, but to each his own!


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## jpm3071 (Jun 13, 2008)

I just went through this problem. The ONLY way to replace the ball joint is if you have a press. If you don't you're better off buying new control arms and putting them in as I did. You will need a ball joint splitter (looks like a 2 prong fork) to separate the control arm from hub. I recommend replacing the sway bar links as mine were split in half when I went through repairs. If you really want to do the best job, you can go to Nissan and get a kit with all the replacement bolts and nuts as well. Be sure to replace both sides since they both go through roughly the same amount of wear and tear. While everything is apart this is also a good time to inspect the axle boots and make sore they're in good condition. Hope this helps!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

x2 on replacing the control arms as a whole.
It's a LOT less work, although with the right tools (splitter, air hammer, etc) it's not so bad.
And not terribly much more expensive...and brand new bushings and joints all the way around.


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## STEALTHY SENTRA (Sep 1, 2009)

zacward said:


> Nahhhh, but a balljoint from a parts store. A snap ring holds it into the control arm. Just need jack, jackstands, snap ring pliers, and a big ass hammer.


This worked for me once i realized the oem balljoint was locked in place by the snap-ring. *smj999smj*is dead right when he mentions it is unsafe to drive. I wound not drive that car if the balljoint separates whle jacking up the car!


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

How dangerous is it? I can't afford to fix my car until after the holidays, gotta love living paycheck to paycheck.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

is this the part I need? Control Arm - Lower | 1999 Nissan/Datsun Sentra 4 Cylinders A 1.6L SFI DOHC | AutoZone.com


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

It's not dangerous at all...if you've got a deathwish...
Take a good hard look at the ball joint. If that falls out, the spindle/hub/wheel assembly parts company with the control arm assembly.
It might not look like it'll fall out, but consider what kinds of forces are put on the thing when you hit a good sized pothole or some rough railroad tracks or something of that magnitude.

That linked part is the part you need. I'd check eBay though. I wanna say I got a pair for the front of my '97 for less than $100.
Don't change just one...change them both. Then get an alignment.

In your first post, you said "The ball joint is the lower one, closer to the rear of the car"
There's only one ball joint on the lower control arm. You're not talking about the bushings are you?


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

I don't see on the control arm where the ball joint is at though? Looks like it's just the arm, not the joint.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

The ball joint is at the end of the control arm near the spindle.
The control arm bushings are the part that bolts up the underbody of the car, nearer to the rear of the car.
You sure you're talking about the correct part?
CONTROL ARM JOINT BUSHING NISSAN SENTRA 95-99 FRONT 2: eBay Motors (item 320590724924 end time Nov-13-10 17:23:44 PST)


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Get one of these too...
HAYNES - NISSAN SENTRA & 200SX REPAIR MANUAL / 1995-'99: eBay Motors (item 290499002340 end time Nov-18-10 08:01:34 PST)
So far, all of the questions you've asked (ball joints, control arms, belts, etc), are easily answered in here. I've got the same book right here next to me.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

Thanks for the link, that is a really good price on those control arms, I am going to buy those next week. 

So how hard are these to replace, I know how to do basic stuff, is this something I can do myself? 

I am going to buy a haynes manual this week too. I am just strapped for cash right now.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

It's just a bunch of unbolting stuff and bolting it back up, no worse than changing something like an alternator or something.
About the only PITA will be where the ball joint goes into the spindle, but it sounds like yours is ready to fall out anyways, so I wouldn't doubt if a couple whacks with a hammer might make it pop right out. Shouldn't take much longer than a couple hours and I'd make sure you've got some 1/2" ratchets and/or breaker bars, air tools (i.e. impact wrenches) make the job a piece of cake. Those control arm bolts are tight, and probably a bit rusty, but they WILL come out with a bit of arm-power.


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## PhxJosh (Jun 27, 2009)

jdgrotte said:


> It's just a bunch of unbolting stuff and bolting it back up, no worse than changing something like an alternator or something.
> About the only PITA will be where the ball joint goes into the spindle, but it sounds like yours is ready to fall out anyways, so I wouldn't doubt if a couple whacks with a hammer might make it pop right out. Shouldn't take much longer than a couple hours and I'd make sure you've got some 1/2" ratchets and/or breaker bars, air tools (i.e. impact wrenches) make the job a piece of cake. Those control arm bolts are tight, and probably a bit rusty, but they WILL come out with a bit of arm-power.



I don't have any air tools, my apartment won't let me run a compressor, can it be done without air tools?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

PhxJosh said:


> I don't have any air tools, my apartment won't let me run a compressor, can it be done without air tools?


Refer to the LAST sentence of post #15 of this thread.


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