# Xtrail 2.2 dCi (european) looses power



## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Hi, I have a '54 plate X-trail 2.2 dCi. Today I had a loss of power problem

Taking an exit off a slow (40mph) dual carriageway turned gradual bend/mild-med hill and suffered loss of power. Virtually as if accel input made no difference. No stuttering/smoke/smells/noises/lights, just slow down. By top of hill (400m?) I'd "hit" 10 or so in first. No sign of stalling just no power. Car would slow if accel released, and mild power back to ~10mph if accelerated. No difference flooring it.

Stopped after reaching a bus stop ~500-700m further on, made a phone call & restarted <5 mins later. car was fine. Drove 5 mins, parked (shopping). Left ~25 mins later. car fine.

After ~3 km similar thing happened, not turning, mild hill, normal accel then suddenly similar symptoms. Turned off into a supermarket. Stopped, called breakdown.

breakdown guy checked ECU errors, revved, inspected. No issues found/no smoke (no idea?) after a few calls/discussion figured out either we carried on or he could transport car home. suggested noting issues, going to dealer. Only minor point he noted was some pulsing between 730 - 980 or so rpm on a regular basis when car first started from cold for around 5 mins -- but we always get that in this car.

He then followed us for ~8 km to check all was well. Did a variety of hard accel, mild, hills. No issues/smoke etc.

About 4 km later had same issue again. This time when I hit the go-slow I went to turn around but stalled. On *immediate* restart full power returned.

Continued journey for ~40km driving gently. no issues. Stopped for ~5 hours. Then drove ~80 km home, very gently (up to 2.5k rpm), no issues. Did some brisker accel later on, but only briefly as dark/cold! NO problems.

In Jan 2009 the fuel filter was replaced after a similar issue, although from memory that time the effect was less severe, limiting us to around 40 mph. Also I think last time recover took longer, whilst this time an immediate restart seemed to fix.

Intercooler was changed ~1.5 years ago, turbo was professionally inspected then, and again 6 months ago & no sign of leaks etc. Battery was swapped around 3 months ago after some sluggish starting in cold weather (resolved).

Car has done ~55k miles

Ideas?
* Fuel filter?
* Fuel pump?
* Sensor/ecu issue?
* turbo?

ANd specifically any observations/driving tests to help narrow down the issue to give the dealer any help in identifying the cause.


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Drove about 120+ miles to airport/back on the motorway (gently). problem occurred once 2 miles from home on return journey. Quick reset and back to normal.

I've checked with a code reader and no error codes are found. The device is showing "EGR: Not ready" but I don't know what's normal for this code reader on that car, or whether status only goes ready once running.

So symptoms in summary remain
* toggling between 800-1000 rpm when cold for a couple minutes
* rpm cap of 2000 rpm (*and* very limited power, not JUST a cap) occasionally
* no rough running
* no black/blue smoke
* no noise

Only actions so far
* Injection / fuel additive

Next steps
* Switch to shell fuel 
* ? Fuel filter worth replacing
* EGR valve check/clean?

My main question is why the ECU is clearly putting the car into limp-home yet not logging an error. Bad sw, or perhaps my reader can't read it (nor could the breakdown mechanic)


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Remove and check the condition of each spark plug and see if you can find any oil residue on any of them or a closed gap in any of the spark plugs. We'll take it from there after you inspect them and report back.

BTW, what year is a '54 plate? Is it a 2004 model?


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

It's a 2H 2004 model.


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## Vans19 (Mar 14, 2010)

I am pretty much sure you wont find any spark plugs on the dci :fluffy:


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## Vans19 (Mar 14, 2010)

BTW try this to replicate the fault:

1. Start your xtrail from cold, let it warm up and start driving it.
2. Pull over and let the engine idle for a minute or 2
3. Try to go again and check if you are on limp mode (that condition that you describe as power loss)

Let me know your findings 
-Hans.


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Vans19 said:


> I am pretty much sure you wont find any spark plugs on the dci :fluffy:


Oops, thought it was a petrol exy. Ignore my comment above


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## redgpx (Jun 7, 2010)

Vans19 said:


> BTW try this to replicate the fault:
> 
> 1. Start your xtrail from cold, let it warm up and start driving it.
> 2. Pull over and let the engine idle for a minute or 2
> ...


This is exactly the problem we have. I've replace fuel filter, air filter, MAF.Run only on V power diesel but still happens. Any help would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Don


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## redgpx (Jun 7, 2010)

redgpx said:


> This is exactly the problem we have. I've replace fuel filter, air filter, MAF.Run only on V power diesel but still happens. Any help would be really appreciated.
> Thanks
> Don


Don't know how to edit post but I've also cleaned the EGR valve.


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## -Jayne (Jun 11, 2010)

I too have this problem, I have a 2005 2.2 sve dci model. The dealer has reconfigured the fuel pump but 2 months on I have the same problem; they have said the fuel pump will need to be sent to Nissan for diagnosis but have no idea of cost.

Has anyone found a solution to this problem yet


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## Cupra_power (Dec 15, 2008)

I had similar symptoms to this on a petrol engine VW golf though, it turned out to be the fuel filter, but the tricky bit was, there was the main filter, but there was also a secondary filter further back in the fuel system in the fuel pump. I replaced the main fuel filter which made the issue better but did not resolve it, only cleaning the small metal gauze filter in the pump solved the problem.

Another issue that had similar symptoms was a fuel pump on it way out, the electric pump would overheat and then lose pressure, on a petrol this will run lean, lose power and run hot but only after a while and the time varied depending on the temp and type of driving. A diesel would show as a serious loss of power. Not sure if the X trial has an electric or mechanical pump though.

Hope this helps.


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

I've not tried that test (apologies) but to add another observation.

When cold the rpm hunts - pulses 900->1000 every couple of seconds. Gradually settles down over first couple/minutes

Problem continues to occur about once every 1-2 weeks


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## speedo6 (Oct 21, 2009)

From the hunt symptoms you describe I would change the EGR valve. It is common problem on Nissan and Toyota diesels and relatively easy to change.


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Is there a chance the EGR valve causing hunting could also cause the stalling?

I've also seen references to
* block off the egr valve with a metal tin lid
* oil the egr spring in case it's getting stuck
* disconnecting the egr valve (is this feasible?)
* A reference to a nissan TSB in Nissan X-Trail (2001 - 2007 ) | Car Reviews | Honest John suggesting a SW issue that needs an ECU update - but maybe this is 2006 engines only (we have a 54 plate)

WOrth trying either of these for a week or two in an attempt to verify if the EGR vale is at fault?

I'm slightly worried that blocking the valve could cause heat buildup in the turbo under load?

I've not noticed any hesitation at higher RPMs (until the "catastrophic" failure occurs -- )


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

Reading around I'm thinking it could be worth
- removing the egr valve (just 4 screws right? Presumably a vacuum tube too? I have no diagram/pics)
- Cleaning it. Presumably with some carb cleaner or similar & careful scraping of any solid carbon -- but mostly letting cleaner dissolve depositrs
- reassembling (with no new gasket)

This could be a cheaper alternative to replacement and worth a go?

if so any specific instructions/pictures/fluids for cleaning recommended?


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## craigr (Jul 6, 2010)

I have an absolutely identical issue on my wife's UK 2004/54 2.2 DCI Sport.

It periodically loses any form of power - I assume limp mode. No matter what you do with the gas pedal, it goes nowhere (about 10 mph). Turn ignition on and off and it typically clears. 

In addition it stalls every now and then when coasting to a stop. The engine is noticeably more rattly than when we first got it.

I took it into Westover Nissan (main dealer) for a diagnosis and they maintained I needed a new timing chain / tensioner, fuel pump, fuel filter, and a couple of other items. In all they quoted me just over £4000 to fix it !

I don't believe for one minute this is the case. I also think it's worth some basic/cheap checks first - EGR and fuel filter seem to be the most obvious places to start. I will give it a go and report back.

Craig


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## planetf1 (Sep 22, 2008)

My fault occurred again just as we were 0.5km from home, so this time I didn't stop the engine and grabbed my OBD-II scanner

Just one Fault code was reported as "pending" P1273 (and this was clear before)
* When stationary car would rev to 2000-2200 only (limp mode)
* when moving not only were revs limited but power too (slight hill slight struggle)
* couldn't see any smoke etc
* I hit "reset" on the OBD-II scanner without stopping the engine, and could immediately rev normally

Does this give any further clues of what to check. I'll try and capture it again


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## speedo6 (Oct 21, 2009)

I use a Castrol Techniclean DG2 degreaser product which is an excellent product for removing carbon oil residue. Wash off in water. I would use an ultrasonic bath if you have access to one.


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## speedo6 (Oct 21, 2009)

I use a Castrol Techniclean DG2 degreaser product which is an excellent product for removing carbon oil residue. Wash off in water. I would use an ultrasonic bath if you have access to one.


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## bluetac (Dec 21, 2006)

We are having the exact same problem with our 03 2.2 dci , has anyone gotten to the bottom of the this yet as it seems to mainly hit this model ?


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## Jorn (Nov 23, 2010)

I have also a problem with my x trail.
its about the same as above.
less power ( feels like the car has no turbo), no smoke only more noise above 3500 t/m
max speed after long time 100 miles / hr.
changed already SCV ( suction control valve) Air Mass Meter, no result. also no faults by computer ( dealer). the next step I'm going to try is to clean the EGR valve.
If anyone has mor results, please let it know.
thanks.


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## bluetac (Dec 21, 2006)

I know it is most likely not the case but it seems like they are timed to go after say 7 years.

we have or xtrail serviced at nissan every year a full lifetime warranty service (will have to check to see what that covers!) but that is like 60 miles away from where we live.

I am leaning towards fuel being the problem maybe contaminated supply that keeps being drawn up.

Does anyone know if its straight forward to drain and flush the tank?


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## Trebor - IRL (Dec 20, 2010)

*X Trail down on power*

I have an 04 2.2 Diesel Xtrail with 130,000 miles on the clock, I bought it at about 20,000 miles. Over time I had an intermittent problem; on starting there would be no acceleration, the engine wouldn’t rev. If I turned off the engine, wait a minute and restart it would be fine. That would happen about one every six month or so......no great problem. Then it started happening more often, up a couple times a week, then it happened one day and restarting didn’t fix it. My local garage reckoned it was the accelerator pedal (electronic) so we got a new one. The pedal had to “programmed” so we went to the dealer. Got the car going but the power was down, loosing speed on hills and need to change down to get going. Struggled on like this for a while, sort of got used to it and at €800 I had spent enough. The cold weather made it worse and one day (lots of snow) the power was gone completely. Tried to drive it for a few mile but got no better. Brought it to a dealer in a different town. They said it was the accelerator pedal (again) when I told them I just had a new pedal they went back to have another look. They reset the programme and off I went again but still with low power. The diagnostics they ran showed errors on the pedal and on the air flow/mass meter. The weather has got cold again and the power is even worse. Went to the dealer and they have ordered a new air flow/mass meter, this is going to cost about €500. I love the car, really comfortable and generally reliable and economical (40mpg). I want to keep it a bit longer, any one got any other ideas as to my problem?


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## xtraildave (Dec 24, 2010)

*Power loss*

Hi i have a 55 plate 2.2 dci and over the last few months suffered the power loss problems described. I took the car to my indy garage who does my servicing and the diognotisic kit he had said it was a faulty fuel pump £2k plus to fix ouch :wtf:.

The problem was only very intermitent so i carried on driving, however it recently got much worse 5 or 6 limps modes in a 30 mile trip to work. I bit the bullet and took it to the nissan dealer (gulp) Town and Country nissan truro.

They were great, diagnosed the problem within 20 mins while i waited. The car needed a replacement suction control valve cost £146 plus one hours labour all covered by the insurance warrenty. The car now runs great no issues.

My moral is they could have charged £45 for the diognostics (not charged for) but they had much more information about what the deisel pump was doing pressures etc and hence were not throwing parts at the problem.

I hope i am not speaking to soon. 

Regards Dave


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## bluetac (Dec 21, 2006)

After using a fuel additive to flush the system and swapping fuel to the bp ultimate diesel we have not had a single problem , no power loss, the annoying flat spot has gone and the accelerations so so crisp now its like it has just been survived, the Xy feels like a new car lol, it really has made that much of a difference to it. :thumbup:

roughly every 4/5th tank in the past we would add the diesel redx type treatment to it (have always done this for all our cars) but it seemed to have had little effect.
Please note we did not have the limp home mode we had severer power loss where we lost all power, it would clear itself after a bit but then return.
We always filled up at our local tesco's up until now, never again though.


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## Trebor - IRL (Dec 20, 2010)

*problem sorted !!!*

I went the local dealer, a new air flow/mass meter, a new fuel filter and new air filter. The car is going like new, cost €560 but worth it. I should have gone the the dealer sooner, I spent about 5 months driving a pig. Roll on the next 130,000 miles


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## bluetac (Dec 21, 2006)

I have bought a new air filter and fuel filter but have yet to fit them, it is a simple enough job to do, but it is far to cold for me to work outside do to having Raynaud's .
Just as soon as it warms up i will be fitting them


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## gerryxtrail (Dec 29, 2010)

HI, I have a 2003 xtrail 2.2 D. During the cold weather it lost power a few times. I got a garage to run the diagnostics on it and it showed up as the trottle position senson. They cleaned and retensioned the sensor and it ran fine again. On christmas eve when the temp was -15 it would start but then cut out again. I could not rev it at all ?? I started 5/6 times over a 1 hr peroid but it would cut out each time. Had to get a lift home on :-( 
I came back to it yesterday when its now +6 deg and it started no issues and is driving fine..

any one any ideas? or sollutions?


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## bluetac (Dec 21, 2006)

Could be water in the fuel, hence it freezing during the - temps and not allowing the fuel to flow allowing it to pass through during the + temps?
you can drain the water from the filter 


> Draining Water from Fuel Filter EBS00MRU
> 1. Prepare a tray at the drain hose open end.
> 2. Loosen drain cock, and operate priming pump to drain water
> from fuel filter.
> ...


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## gerryxtrail (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks Bluetac,

I drained it last week and no issues since. Think there is a hard frost coming this weekend so it will be the test.. Thanks again

gerry


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## mraf786 (Apr 25, 2012)

*loss of power*

hi there just bought an xtrail from a customer of mine it has identical problems.
i was told that the hpfp had been changed by someone else but was having no effect. i stuck it on my diags and given 2 codes p1275 and another i cant remember.
i took the crunch and took the engine out checked all timing marks and the swapped out the fuel pump. got a recon £450. put everything back and started it. Boooom no difference after hunting around banging my head against a wall called the dealers they wouldnt even entertain me. 
after much searching under the engine bay hit me i hadnt changed the suction control valve. 
well ive got a car that runs nice and smooth power when i want it. total cost for me was £600, only because i did the job myself. £2000 labour and parts charge from the dealers is reasonable as i know how much work goes into it.
but please beware that SCV kit sorted my problem but you still need to get it programmed once you`ve changed it. Dealers call it a relearning process.


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