# gonna buy my friends 84 b11 sentra



## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

hey guys! New to the forums. I have a question. It's not running right now because there is no current carb on it, but he does have an aftermarket carb though. Now the carb only has one holy for the fuel, but i've seen pictures and theres apparently two fuel lines? Are they both a feed type fuel line? Or is one a feed and the other a return line? We're trying to figure out all the vacuum lines as well because he didn't label everything before he rebuilt the head. 

Also, I want to do either sr20ve an Sr20det swap in the future with it to make it a sleeper haha it is an ugly little thing but I do see potential in it. I cannot for the life of me find any information for how to get an sr20 into a B11 though. I've seen videos of them on Youtube and stuff but that's it. Can someone supply me some information? I've tried searching but no luck on my end :|


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I remember some Sentra manual fuel pumps have three nipples and I believe the second line was a return line from the carb (keep in mind that it's been a long time since I've worked on one!). IIRC, they later had you replace the fuel pump with a two nipple pump and plugged off the return line. I don't recall if this was the case on 84 models or if it was an earlier or later model, but I do know it was the E16s engine. The original carb was a Hitachi 2-bbl. and they worked pretty well. They can still be purchased from Nissan, but they'll set you back about $800. 
As far as your question, there really isn't a need for a return line. If you have a two nipple fuel pump, you'll only have one fuel line to the carb. There should be a vacuum diagram on the bottom of the hood, if the hood is original. If not, you might be able to find one in the free repair guides at Autozone.com or find a used Nissan FSM for your Sentra on Ebay, which is a wealth of information. The problem you face with the 84 B11 is it came equipped with Nissan's VCM system in lieu of a choke system, that was used on the 83 and earlier B11's. The Vacuum Control Modulator system added a mess of vacuum hoses and lines, a couple of thermo-vacuum switches, and idle speed actuator on the side of the carb, a small air filter and the VCM, itself, at the passenger side of the engine compartment. Some refer to it as the "hopeless chokeless" system as most don't understand or take the time to figure out how it works and it is an over-complicated fix to a problem they didn't have. Since you are installing an aftermarket carb, you will not be able to use the VCM system and will use the choke system that comes with your carb. This will mean you will have to replace the distributor with a diaphragm-type advance mechanism, which you can find on '83 and earlier Sentras and Pulsars. 
I actually like the look of the B11. Make sure you pop the trunk and check the condition of the rear shock towers, as they were prone to rusting out. The bottom of the radiator support was another area that would often rust out. I believe there's a thread on the site where someone dropped a GA16DE into one. In both the case of the GA16DE and SR20, you have to swap the trans, axles and deal with the hubs, ECM and wiring, etc., so the procedures would be very similar. You might want to search for that to give you some ideas of what you'll be looking at.


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

Wow awesome info! My friend actually found his original carb so we will be hooking it up and we will find the parts for the aftermarket carb another time, lol

I heard that the B12/B11 engine bays are the same and that Sr20 swaps are fairly the same do you know if that's true or not? If it is then I can just follow a guide for a sr20 b12 swap since there are none for the b11's


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

I also heard that a ca18det is practically a drop in for the b12's, would that be the same for the b11s too?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

B11 and B12 engine bays are pretty close; keep in mind that they both had the E16 engine installed, so following a guide for a B12/SR20 swap should be close. The CA16DE/CA18DE engines were available in the KN13 Pulsar NX/SE in the US and the B12 and KN13 engine bays are also similar. Just like the SR swap, you would still need to swap the trans, axles, etc.

If you are installing the original carb, make sure the blind plug is removed over the idle mixture screw. It's a lot easier to remove it with the carburetor off the engine as it faces the firewall.


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

Thank you so much for the help! I can't wait to start working on it when I get it.

Why is that exactly?

Also, how hard would it be to turbo the E15 with the stock carb? Or would the aftermarket one have to be placed onto it? I know custom headers would have to be made, but I'm more worried about the carb. Would I have to install a fuel pump into the fuel line? (an external one) What kind of problems would I be facing?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Why is what exactly? 

The N12 Pulsar did have a turbo option, the E15T. It used fuel injection and the pistons were likely lower compression. Of course, the wiring harness, ECU, among other things were different. If you want to turbo your engine, you'd likely have to do a lot of homework and fabrication. To me it's not worth the hassle, especially if you are planning on putting and SR20 engine into it. The E-series engines have no where near the power potential of the SR-series engines.


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

Hmmm that's true. What would be the most cost effective route? I know to put an Sr20 into a b11/12 custom mounts have to be made (my friend welds), but would would the sr20det or sr20ve be more cost effective? the ca18det is out of the question because of how impossible it is to find parts/engines. The sr20ve seems to be pretty cheap and readily available online. Nissan Primera Sentra JDM SR20VE Neo VVL Engine Wiring ECU Motor 2 0L sr20 Ve | eBay Like this sr20ve comes with a harness ecu and the engine itself all its missing is the tranny and shift linkages and axles which I think I can get from a usdm b13 se-r if I'm not mistaken (correct me if im wrong) and then the sr20det from a bluebird costs around the same Nissan Blubird ATTESA SSS Sentra G20 SR20DET Turbo Engine ECU JDM SR20DET Sr20 | eBay but I would have to source a harness and add in an intercooler and piping for it as well but I'm just not sure which one is worth more for the hassle?


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

Okay so little update! We decided to put the carb on there anyway with only the fuel line connected and it started up! It was just a mock up and didn't connect any vacuum lines as most of them looked like it was for emissions anyway. Small problem though, we don't know what to do about the electronic choke. It seemed to idle fine when he kept the choke plate closed but it doesn't stay closed for some reason. here is the link to the carb itself
Carbs Unlimited Weber Carburetor Conversion Kit
Do you know how to hook it up? It seems to run fine with the carb so we aren't going to get a pre 83 dizzy
Here is a pic and a video of it running
couldnt find the pic of the front lol
also he put a stock civic muffler which made it loud as hell its really nice lol

B11 Nissan/Datsun Sentra starting with new Weber K662 Carb - YouTube


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

Also I heard that Cali models of the 84 sentra still used the vacuum type dizzy how can we tell if it still uses it? there is a hose coming from the dizzy that has a couple other hoses connected to it if it is a vacuum type dizzy can we just remove the ecu and be fine since the old ecu controlled carb is removed?


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

another update! Got the throttle cable in, had to get a part off the old carb and had to drill a hole for the spring and do other stuff lol but we tried to start it up again and no luck :/ for some reason now it's not getting fuel for the idle? when we put the throttle all the way a squirt of fuel goes into the carb but thats it
any idea what could be causing it?
Also, pics!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Distributors with vacuum advance have a vacuum advance pod attached to the distributor. The vacuum hose from the vacuum advance needs to be connected to a "ported" vaccum connection on the carb and not manifold vacuum. The ECM cannot be removed because you will need it to control the ignition module. As far as the carb, have you tried adjusting the idle mixture or confirming proper fuel pressure? Check for vacuum leaks.


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## ne0tas (Jun 6, 2013)

yup there is a vacuum advance solenoid with a vacuum line. We attached it and unattached it and it didn't seem to make a difference. It is connected too the carb as well not the manifold. My friend disconnected the hose and fuel started to come out so I'm pretty sure there is proper fuel pressure. My friend flipped the carb upside down though and all the fuel spilled out. Could it be that something went bad when he flipped it? We don't really know much about carbs at all. 
Yes! I adjusted idle fuel/air mixture screw. I put one full turn out to try and richen it but still no fuel comes out when we try to start it. We couldnt find a screw short enough to get to the regular fuel mixture screw but we hadn;t messed with it since it started and ran on its own. I don't know what could be the problem?


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