# 2014 Rogue Intermittent Start Problem



## Irwin (Mar 16, 2019)

My 2014 with 66K miles Rogue SL has developed an intermittent start problem. When I attempt to start the Rogue, push the brake pedal, all of the dash lights go out and will not start. No brake lights, almost as if no battery is connected. I wait about a minute and the dash lights come on and the Rogue starts. It’s intermittent and seems to happened occasionally after the car has sat all night. The dealer finds no codes, the battery tests fine and I have replaced the battery in the remote start key pad. The dealer replaced the Engine Control Module and the problem still persists. 
Any suggestions on what to look at next?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Having been a Nissan Master Tech, I often got a lot of intermittent problems. They can be tough to diagnose if they are not easily duplicated. You may have to leave the vehicle at the dealer for a length of time so the tech can have multiple attempts to start it with the diagnostic tool monitoring at the same time, hoping that it will catch something if he can get the problem to occur. It wouldn't hurt to call the Nissan customer hotline, either, to start a report and perhaps they will send a service rep to the dealer to assist with figuring out the problem. Their # is 1-800-NISSAN-1. Sometimes complaining on Nissan's Facebook page will get some attention from them, too.


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## Irwin (Mar 16, 2019)

Thanks for your response. Because it’s so intermittent we have not been able to duplicate with the dealer.
What is the sequence the Rogue goes through before starting? What systems/computer readings are checked that would turn a Rogue totally off?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Could be linked to the immobilizer system, or maybe even something like a loose battery connection. Those would be my guesses. Hopefully, you can get it figured out inexpensively. Good luck.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The fact that the dash lights go off and stay off for a minute when it doesn't start and then they eventually come back on and it starts is what's throwing me...and obviously your dealer tech, as well. It just sounds like there is a power interruption on a major scale that is occurring, which is why one would think of battery/cable issue to begin with. An immobilizer system shouldn't do that; if activated, it will flash the security light, allow the vehicle to crank but not start as it shuts down the fuel pump. Since the IPDM/ER controls power to most of the components on the car (and since they already replaced the battery and ECM), could that be the problem? Possibly...but, it's an educated guess on my part and that's all it is. If I were the Nissan tech at the dealer, I would get in touch with their technician hotline to help troubleshoot it. It's a really good resource that some Nissan techs won't take the time to use, unfortunately, or even known how to use. They've helped me out on a number of "weird" problems on Nissans when I was a tech. Again, I would still call the customer hotline and start a report and see what advice they have to offer. The phone call is free.


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## bjrjar (Aug 31, 2018)

Sure sounds like a faulty battery connection to me. I once had a Ford Thunderbird that had a problem with the tail lights. When you stepped on the brakes and the stop lights began turning on, the tail lights would go off. It was a faulty ground connection from the tail/stop light assembly to the frame of the car. It simply couldnt carry that much current. My guess is you have a similar bad connection to the battery. I’d look closely at all connections from the battery. Maybe clean them with a piece of emory paper and be sure they are tightly connected. In your case it could be the initial attempt to start exposes the inadequate connection, but perhaps it internally sparks and burns through to improve temporarily. I got a lot of experience with inadequate or unreliable connections working on sensing contacts on computer printers. If I looked at their connection effectiveness on an oscilloscope, I’d frquently see a very ragged connection. And, these feedback contacts were gold plated to provide as reliable a connection as possible. If I just marked the contact surface with a pencil where they contacted each surface, the scope trace usually cleared up temporarily. You may have a similar inadequate current path from your battery to your frame. It’s definitely worth looking into.

Bob


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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