# !992 Hardbody.How do you lower this truck?



## D21jrc9009 (Sep 29, 2008)

Ok so, after just recently fixing an engine issue, i have decided to lower this truck. It's a 2 wheel drive reg. cab with the ka24e in it. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on lowering this truck? I don't want to use airbags, too expensive. Hopefully someone can come up with an answer for me. I know on the toyota's you could just "flip" the torsion bars, but I don't think you can do it on this. Any help?


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## D21jrc9009 (Sep 29, 2008)

sorry guys. 1992 hardbody.


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Just lowered mine this weekend:

Lowering the Hideous Hardbody - Mr. Wellwood

Nutshell:

3" blocks for the back

Unwind front torsion bars

Ultra-low profile bumpstops

Chrysler Cordoba shocks (modified control arm slightly to fit)

Sits reasonably low and rides surprisingly well (you NEED short front shocks for this to ride well):










You can always go lower by re-drilling the front spring perch, pulling a leaf, and dropped spindles.


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## D21jrc9009 (Sep 29, 2008)

on average.... how much did that cost? how hard was this job to do? Can you give me a slightly detailed way to do this?


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Canadian prices:

3" lowering blocks: $67
Two sets bumpstops: $20
Two shocks: $50

"Hard" is a subjective term - it was super easy for me. It may be more difficult for you. On a scale of 1 to 10 it's probably a 3 or less. You can do it in an afternoon.

Detailed way to do this? Did you clicky the linky?

*Lowering the Hideous Hardbody - Mr. Wellwood*

^^^ clicky ^^^


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## Logantw (Sep 9, 2008)

i heard you can get your leaf springs straightened out and it will lower it a lil bit thats just wat sum guy told me to do


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)




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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

By the way, I experienced a bit of universal joint vibration taking off in first gear with moderate throttle.

Some guys use angled lowering blocks, which I don't believe are the best solution. I raised the carrier bearing with 1" spacers and longer bolts and the vibration is gone.


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## suspeck (Apr 7, 2009)

Hmm.I want to lower my hardbody too, but the fabrication and modifying parts would have me stumped.Your write up was very informative Skinny_G, and i think i can handle the back easily but the front seems hard.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

All the above is fine and dandy! But it's not the best way, it 's actually more expensive in the long run! If you wanna maintain your stock ride comfort then this is the way,...Buy some Belltech lower spindles, or lowered control arms, lowering blocks, or the lowered rear spring which is offered from belltech. Most folks will lower the front 2" with spindles, then throw on some 3" lowering block to get the leveled look...That's really for people who don't use their trucks as trucks! I would suggest lowered 2" splindles and lowered 2" block cause you still have the natural truck raked stance which means you can load so crap in the back without your headlights shining in the trees looking for freaking squirrels...IMO!!!


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

CMax03 said:


> it 's actually more expensive in the long run!


Can you elaborate on this? I'm interested.

Futher:

1. Lowered control arms do not correct the suspension geometry like spindles do. They are no better than unwinding the control arms.

2. If you use your truck as a truck, don't lower it. Lowering it is stupid if you use it like a truck.

3. It is very easy to re-align your headlights after lowering 2"/3" - if you can turn a screw driver, you gots the mad tyte skilz yo.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

Skinny G said:


> Canadian prices:
> 
> 3" lowering blocks: $67
> Two sets bumpstops: $20
> ...



:idhitit::idhitit::idhitit:good link!!!:idhitit::idhitit::idhitit:


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## Jimbo13njax (Feb 1, 2007)

tons of info on this subject


InfamousNissan.com Are you IN?


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Skinny G said:


> Can you elaborate on this? I'm interested.
> 
> Futher:
> 
> ...


 Sure! You're doing more damage to your suspension components and tires lowering them with the torsion bars. Again... IMO 2" dropped spindles, 2" lowering blocks, lowered shocks (not really necessary) is the best setup! And you can still throw stuff in the back and haul without any issues period!


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

CMax03 said:


> You're doing more damage to your suspension components and tires


Tires I can see, but I only ended up with -1.5° of camber with a 3" lowering of the torsion bars. This is not excessive by any means, and a normal camber setting for many vehicles.

I'm not visualizing the damage to the suspension that you're talking about - can you be more specific?

With spindles and blocks, you do not need lowering shocks at all, whatsoever.

With 2" blocks, I can carry 50% less weight in the back before the suspension bottoms out. That doesn't sound like no issues period.

I apologize in advance for sounding like a dink here.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

I don't have the spec's on me right now, but too low can cause a bumpsteer problem that tends too wear out tierod ends faster than usual. A well maintained HB front suspension tends to last 300,000 before balljoints and linkages start showing excessive wear!


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Bump steer doesn't cause tie rods to wear any more than turning the steering wheel causes the tie rods to wear.

As long as a tie rod end or ball joint is not expected to operate outside its operating range, it should last indefinitely (with proper lubrication).

Other issues such as a well worn ball joint or tie rod being expected to operate outside of its "wear" zone (yet within its range of operating, and due to being lowered) could accelerate wear. In which case the ball joint was likely on its way out anyway.

Where are you getting this information from?

The amount of lowering that result in the steering linkage hitting the radius rods (definitely bad) are beyond the 3" I've outlined here.

Alternately sized and offset wheels can put excessive load on ball joints and tie rods, and must be accounted for when attempting to condemn joint wear on lowering alone.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

I'm getting my info from Nissan manuals, 21 years of maintaning this beast and doing things, you think you've pioneered! Bumpsteer is apparently something youhave no clue about and you have that happening before you get to 3" of torsion adjustment. I found that anything beyond 2" was a crappy ass ride and now at that point of having not enough spring, unless you're running HD units from Sway-a-way. Anyhow thanks for letting my here your point of view on the subject...


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Right.

Well there you go then.

I've designed and built suspension and steering systems from scratch. Including engineering the camber curve, roll centers, bump steer, trail, scrub, ackerman, spring rates, suspension frequency, bump and droop travel, shock valving and whatnot. 

I endeavoured not to attack you or belittle you in my posts. I would have appreciated the same.

Happy Easter.


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## suspeck (Apr 7, 2009)

I think i'll stick with G on this one:givebeer:


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## D21jrc9009 (Sep 29, 2008)

Yeah I might have to do the same thing. The only problem is, it's going to have to wait. I just put on pathfinder chrome wheels and 205/60/r15 tires. my front end is making a lot of noise and everything wheel wise is not bent up and is balanced. I just discovered on my ball joints the rubber boots are broken, thus have leaked all the grease out, probably destroying them. So, i think is hould fix that before lowering the truck. WHen turnign you get banging and noise. I just had to put a rear in this thing as well, so I def. can tell this truck was not well maintained. 160,000 miles and dying.


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

dropped spindles (front), lowered blocks (rear) maintain that factory suspension geometry less headaches. Also less calls to that other suspension guy when the sh*t hits the fan!


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## lordnabu (Jun 9, 2009)

*1990 Hardbody*

Does anyone know where a good site is for a 1990 Hardbody. I wanna make a lowrider, ive been looking through ebay, sfx performance, and like craigslist. This is my first vehicle, but i have always loved lowriders. haha
thank you guys for ur help


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

go to airride website!


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## 53sled (Sep 4, 2009)

CMax03 said:


> dropped spindles (front), lowered blocks (rear) maintain that factory suspension geometry less headaches. Also less calls to that other suspension guy when the sh*t hits the fan!


Back from the dead.
No, it doesn't maintain factory geometry. If you move the ball joint away from the hub, you affect the roll center. any change to stock, is no longer stock.
http://www.mitchellsoftware.com/ForceB1.jpg
Maximized - Cues And Ays - May 2010 - Ball Joint Spacers - Mini Truckin' Magazine

as for the rear, blocks change the leverage acting on the leaf spring. this increases wheel hop. Again not factory.

jdm tyte yo!


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## dentedsub (Oct 23, 2007)

whoa, picky.
drop spindles will be a lot better on ball joints than just dropping the torsion bars.

blocks are kinda *******


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## lowheels (Mar 4, 2012)

If you install lower control arms or spindles, how many inches can you turn down the tortion bars before you have to shim it or have issues?


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## lowheels (Mar 4, 2012)

Also what is the deal with the pinion angled blocks? what does that actually do to the driveshaft and trans? It seems like the person whom I purchased this truck stuck 5"s of blocks in the rear and it is hitting in the transmission and trans mount is destroyed...WTW??? Any ideas or help would be appreciated!!


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Spindles don't change your balljoint angle s, caster nor camber...they just raise the spindles axle location on the knuckle itself.....I lowered mine about an 1" in the front and 1" in the rear.....I also added Nissan Motorsport's F & R swaybar kit....since my HB came with none!


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## lowheels (Mar 4, 2012)

i just ordered 3" lowered springs for the rear and shocks for front and rear. I am going to install these items and see if my pinion angle issue is corrected. Has anyone ever had to modify (shorten) the driveshaft when slamming ur truck? This is also another avenue....


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## lowheels (Mar 4, 2012)

I have a 1996 Hardbody, I purchased drop spindles, bump stops, lowered rear leaf springs and shocks all the way around. This cost me about $850. I know it seems like alot but, you have to remember if you keep the truck, you will not have to worry about the 20 year old parts you have modified. Also pinion angle is also a factor when messing with torsion bars. You must align this truck after you lower it!! Also remember everything on this truck is 20 years old!!! Spend the money and change the old parts!!!


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Here are some explorations I have done over the past couple of years:

http://www.gwellwood.com/project-cars/the-hideous-hardbody/hideously-lowered

Many of your questions might be answered.


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## derty_rabbit (Nov 4, 2017)

Skinny G said:


> Just lowered mine this weekend:
> 
> Nutshell:
> 
> ...


Is this a 2wd or 4

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


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