# pathfinder '06 electrical/battery short problem



## jim_winn (Apr 13, 2010)

First, I wanted to say that I'm new to this so if I've posted in the wrong place please accept my apology beforehand. Before I posted I reviewed older posts to see if I could find an answer, but I could not. so here goes.

I have an '06 pathfinder with @56k miles and went out the other morning to a completely dead vehicle. The only problem I'd had in the past was transmission related, where I couldn't shift from drive to park, without forcing it a bit, and was towing a trailer at the time. In this latest situation the battery was completely drained, wouldn't even recognize the remote. On turning the key there was absolutely no electrical response.  I put on a remote starter/charger, after checking the battery with a voltmeter, and tried starting. All I got was a loud click-click-click-etc. Left the charger on for an hour and finally got it started. I went straight to a local battery store and purchased a new battery, but didn't install it as the vehicle was working okay.

A few days later I went out started the vehicle, started to drive away and then everything (electronic/dashboard etc.) went off. Only the battery symbol and service engine light lights were still lit. At the time the engine was still running but there was no acceleration available. I backed into my driveway and changed to the new battery. Vehicle started just fine, but when I went to put it drive the same thing happened, btw, this is the original battery. After that I pulled it back into the driveway and parked it, glad I didn't take a hockey stick to it at the time. 

The next morning I went out to the same situation. The battery was completely dead and it appeared acid had actually been forced from the cell covers. And that is where it sits. I took out the new battery, and the old one for that matter, both recharged fine and have held their charge for a few days. 

My posting here is because I've brought cars to dealerships before and gotten the run around. I was reading threw a few of the postings, and their responses, here and folks seemed pretty knowledgeable and cordial at the same time. So if anyone has any ideas please let me know.
Thanks very much,
J
http://www.nissanforums.com/images/smilies/newbie.gif


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## pulsar86 (Aug 13, 2009)

You must have something that is putting a large draw on the battery with the ignition off or a short that isn't blowing fuses somehow, but I can't figure what it could be, all I can suggest is to see an autoelectrician and get their opinion because from the sounds of it an electrical fire might be a possibility if it continues. Keep us posted on the problem because it will be interesting to see what the cause of the problem is.


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## 2005 4x4 Pathfinder (Nov 2, 2009)

I agree with Pulsar.

However, whatever the short is, I doubt that it is drawing a steady 20A of current or more, or you would probably smell the problem by now.

*Assuming* that the current isnt more than that, you could use Voltmeter with a 20A fuse on one lead - set to current, and check places systematically to find the problem.

You could also pull ALL of the fuses and relays and note whence they came from. Then, measure the current draw at the battery. If you are still drawing a lot of current, then you may have a short in a wiring harness under the hood.

If there is little to no current draw, then you can add back the fuses while monitoring . . then add back the relays. At some point I would expect the problem to present itself and you would have a current path to trace and fix.

The first thing I would look in to, is ANY aftermarket work done at all, this means stereo, security alarm, trailer light harness, anything and everything.

In order to do the above tests, you will need a V\A meter and some clip leads from Radio Shack etc, and some tape to hold things in place. An assistant comes in handy, if they don't talk your ears off 



.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

you have some great advice... there are other possible causes but you have a good place to start checking the electrical system and find the cause. 

Good luck & keep us posted !!!


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## Calimoxo2 (Jan 25, 2005)

Two things... 

1. The OEM batteries are horrible

2. If you have any aftermarket accy's (fog lights, winch...etc) it MUST be grounded to the fender ground, not the battery. Only the single negative should go to the battery (There is a TSB for this)

NTB06009

This bulletin has been amended as of 3/30/06. The Applied Vehicles, IF YOU CONFIRM and Claims Information sections have been changed. No other content has been changed. Discard all previous versions of this bulletin. IF YOU CONFIRM The MIL is "ON" with DTC U1000 or U1010 (CAN COMM CIRCUIT) stored in the engine control unit, and there are no drivability incidents, DETERMINE IF This bulletin applies by performing steps 1 and 2 of the Service Procedure. ACTIONS If this bulletin applies, there may be excess resistance in certain ground connections: Clean/re-tighten ECM ground connections. Clean/re-tighten negative battery cable body connection and battery post connection. If needed, clean and ensure good contact between the steering member assembly and the left side instrument stay assembly. See this bulletin for further detail.


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## ntech (Apr 13, 2010)

Replace the battery cause its most likely toast now. When you start it, whats your system voltage? Shouldnt be any higher than 14v or so. If you have a large draw on the battery, eliminate all aftermarket acc. first. Check current draw with a clamp meter or a DVOM in series with the battery. I recently saw a Bose speaker amp killing batteries but, it was popping thru the speakers too.


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## jim_winn (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks Everybody! I got the volt meter and test light out and started going through what was suggested above. Something 'pulsar86' mentioned has made me think hard about trying to do this myself, that being fire.... So I'm probably going to end up bringing it to the dealer and will keep you folks up to date. As I'd mentioned there was a bit of a snafu with the transmission a bit ago, i.e. having to force it from drive into park, and that's when this problem really came up, that being when I was driving it. Thanks again and I'll post back when I get this fixed.


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## 2005 4x4 Pathfinder (Nov 2, 2009)

If you havent already dropped this off at a shop, can you turn everything off and disconnect the + , then read the CURRENT between the positive battery post and terminal?

ONLY these two points of contact.

DO NOT try this measurement between the battery posts, or the battery + and vehicle body etc.


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## jim_winn (Apr 13, 2010)

update. i brought the vehicle to the local nissan dealer and heard back that the problem was/is the alternator. didn't make sense to me as the battery would drain rapidly with even though the it was turned off. the tech at the dealership explained that if the alternator was junked/burned out then that could very well be the cause of the battery drain. i checked the price of a rebuilt alternator at napa and it was about $100 less. the guy at napa said the dealership could, probably, get a better alternator.?.?. i'm not sure of that but... so we'll see tomorrow when they get the alternator, had to be overnighted from new york, and put it in.

to '2005 4x4 pathfinder', i had tried to check as many scenarios before i brought it over to the dealer. i'm not sure if i checked, or understand for that matter, what you suggested. problem with this vehicle is the location of the alternator, at the bottom of the engine, to try to test/jump different connections. thanks for the post though, i'm just hoping these guys get it right.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

jim_winn said:


> update. i brought the vehicle to the local nissan dealer and heard back that the problem was/is the alternator. didn't make sense to me as the battery would drain rapidly with even though the it was turned off. the tech at the dealership explained that if the alternator was junked/burned out then that could very well be the cause of the battery drain. i checked the price of a rebuilt alternator at napa and it was about $100 less. the guy at napa said the dealership could, probably, get a better alternator.?.?. i'm not sure of that but... so we'll see tomorrow when they get the alternator, had to be overnighted from new york, and put it in.
> 
> to '2005 4x4 pathfinder', i had tried to check as many scenarios before i brought it over to the dealer. i'm not sure if i checked, or understand for that matter, what you suggested. problem with this vehicle is the location of the alternator, at the bottom of the engine, to try to test/jump different connections. thanks for the post though, i'm just hoping these guys get it right.


Dont worry this is probably correct.
I had the same problem years ago with an alternator. The power Diodes went short causing a big drain. This they are designed for 80A approx and have a big heat sink so no smoke or drama. 
I just replaced the diode stack and it was fine.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

BTW this happens when the car is off because the alternator power lead is always connected to the diode stack. the voltage regulator is turned off which supplies the rotor / commutator current, which is normally around 2A or so.


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## 2005 4x4 Pathfinder (Nov 2, 2009)

Yeah this sounds right to me.

I was trying to think of what faulty relay etc might stay engaged, the alt didn't occur to me. You would have read the 2A draw at the battery, but it still would have taken some tracing and deduction to pin it to the alternator.

This might also be a good opportunity to ensure all of your battery terminals and ground connections are clean.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

I had the same prob and went with an alternator from Napa... works great and even their reman products have decent warranty (3 years i believe)


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## jim_winn (Apr 13, 2010)

final update. Thanks for the posts/ideas I received from everyone. It turned out to be the alternator after all. I just wish I was smart enough to have figured that out before bringing it to the dealer, could have saved @ $350. oh well, next time I'll know. the piece that completely threw me was the fact that the alternator was the battery drain. after thinking on it a bit i guess it does make some sense. 
Thanks again,
John


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Glad it's all figured out, I would have ate my shirt on this one if it wasn't the altenator. 

So did you pay $350 for a reman ? Did you return the core for a refund ? I haven't replaced on this new but it seems like you payed more than i would expect.


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## jim_winn (Apr 13, 2010)

hey TW_Pathy_97, the final cost ended up being @$500USD, after the alternator $310USD and labor 2hrs at $87USD/hr. if i'd know it was just the alternator i could have/would have replaced it myself. with the battery drain, as IAN pointed out was the alternator, it would've saved me some money. since i didn't know what the problem was, i was much better off paying to learn, i guess is the best way to put it.


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