# rocking at high speeds ??



## Laser250 (Apr 8, 2010)

Seems to be a continual problem with my '98 SE path, that when i go over 60mph (not immediately...might be cruisin at 75 for 30 min) then sway in road might trigger a rocking motion from right-rear to left-front (just as an example). Can be so bad that control is compromised. When it is triggered, the solution is to immediately slow down. Was way worse on a trip to Arizona from Texas over Thanksgiving holidays, and have since had all shocks and struts replaced. But it didn't cure the problem...although it definitely helped by probably 95%, but I'd like to fix it once and for all. 
Any suggestions?

thanks


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Lower control arm bushings...It is one of the few common problems on an R50 Pathfinder...replace them and you will be golden!


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## Laser250 (Apr 8, 2010)

tyvm. will chk that out.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

Yep...If they've never been replaced in a 98 you are doing good...Replaced em in my 97 in 2004...and now they are shot again.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

I haven't had to replace mine since I got my 97, but I know I will eventually.

what's the cost and best place to get a new set ?


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> I haven't had to replace mine since I got my 97, but I know I will eventually.
> 
> what's the cost and best place to get a new set ?


That's good...for you!! What model do you have? SE, LE? Mine's an SE.

Not sure where you can get outside of a dealer...Last time I got new links from the dealer and put them in myself. It's crazy that you can't just replace the bushing...but I guess you could....if you can find a place to buy just the bushing...and have the tool(s) to press them in. I believe Nissan wouldn't sell just the bushing...but I might be wrong on that. A pair of links is gonna run in the $400 ballpark...give or take a hundred or so...as best I recall...NOT cheap.


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> I haven't had to replace mine since I got my 97, but I know I will eventually.
> 
> what's the cost and best place to get a new set ?


I would need more info on your vehicle, however you are looking at about $ 140.00 - $ 170.00 each for the lower control arms.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

NissanPartsDept said:


> I would need more info on your vehicle, however you are looking at about $ 140.00 - $ 170.00 each for the lower control arms.


Or you could go here https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-trailing-arm-bushings-p-713.html and get two sets for about $100 shipped and replace the bushings yourself. Replacing the entire control arm is silly but a dealer would probably cost you even more with labor to replace the bushings themselves then to just buy all new links. 

Plus those are polyurethane bushings, which will last you forever.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Or you could go here https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-trailing-arm-bushings-p-713.html and get two sets for about $100 shipped and replace the bushings yourself. Replacing the entire control arm is silly but a dealer would probably cost you even more with labor to replace the bushings themselves then to just buy all new links.
> 
> Plus those are polyurethane bushings, which will last you forever.


Thanks for that info Laxman....I have the same problem as the OP and need to get this corrected myself. My understanding is that some sort of special tool or press is required to swap out the bushings in the control arm, no?


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

piste said:


> Thanks for that info Laxman....I have the same problem as the OP and need to get this corrected myself. My understanding is that some sort of special tool or press is required to swap out the bushings in the control arm, no?


It took a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to get the old ones out since the rubber was so wasted away. I needed to pry the metal sleeve out. The new ones you will need to use a multi ton (12 ton for me) press to press them in...


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Perhaps I miss-understood, I thought he was looking for the FRONT lower control arms. This link takes you to REAR trailing arm bushings. The same site has Front lower control arms for about $100.00 more than I show.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Perhaps I miss-understood, I thought he was looking for the FRONT lower control arms. This link takes you to REAR trailing arm bushings. The same site has Front lower control arms for about $100.00 more than I show.


The rocking is from the rear lower control bushings wearing out.


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Thanks for the clairfication. I guess I got confused when everyone was refering to them as not being available from a dealer. Rear lower control link bushings are available OEM from dealers. On my site they are $17.49 ea.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Thanks for the clairfication. I guess I got confused when everyone was refering to them as not being available from a dealer. Rear lower control link bushings are available OEM from dealers. On my site they are $17.49 ea.


Sorry if I was the perpetrator of misinformation. Now that I think about it...it wasn't that the part wasn't available...I think it was that the service dept told me they would not replace just the bushing. likely cuz it wouldn't be economical for me??

But with the need for a multi ton press to put them in the bushings alone might as well not be available to most of us. Though I suppose I could tkae the old arms with new bushings and have a local garage remove the old ones and press in some new ones and still save a boatload over a dealer putting in entirely new control arms.???


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

No problem.

By the way, if you want the complete lower links they are $78.38 each on my site.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Thanks for the info... I have a 97 XE with 105,000 miles.

Since I never replaced them I was looking at bushings online to replace them myself. 

I didn't intend to replace the contol arm because as I understand it the problem is just the bushings failing.

Of course Nissan will want to sell you the whole thing for $400 lol.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Or you could go here https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-trailing-arm-bushings-p-713.html and get two sets for about $100 shipped and replace the bushings yourself. Replacing the entire control arm is silly but a dealer would probably cost you even more with labor to replace the bushings themselves then to just buy all new links.
> 
> Plus those are polyurethane bushings, which will last you forever.


NPD I looked at yours, Since it doesn't say I am assuming they are not polyurethane as suggested by laxman ?

As laxman said the polyurethane bushings are supposed to be good for life which for some is a better buy. 

Myself I am quite lucky to have not had to replace them after 13 years.... but i do like to keep on top of known problems.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> No problem.
> 
> By the way, if you want the complete lower links they are $78.38 each on my site.



By links do you mean control arm and bushings ?


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Thanks for the info... I have a 97 XE with 105,000 miles.
> 
> Since I never replaced them I was looking at bushings online to replace them myself.
> 
> ...


In the vast majority of cases it is indeed just the bushing and not the arm that is the problem. But the key issue is having the ability to remove old bushings and press in new ones....it's not a pop out and pop in by hand sort of affari.

Anyone know what it would cost to take an old control arm with worn bushing in it to a garage...have them remove the old bushing and press in the new one....cuz most folks would need to do that....unless of course you have a multi-ton press laying around.

And lastly...I'm still not sure whether or not Nissan would sell just the bushing or not. Some folks seem to believe they would/will.

13 years and 105K miles without replacing them is good. My first ones went in 2004 and I'm needing new ones again. Current mileage is roughly 140K...but who knows since my odo froze a while back!!!


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

All the parts on my site are OEM. The rear lower links are what people on here are refering to as lower control arms. The pathfinder actually uses what is called a multi-link suspension. The lower links are the part that the bushings go out in. The replacement links I mentioned come complete with the bushings.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Polyurethane bushings not only last longer but they are stiffer too, providing better performance than the OEM rubber bushings. 

If you do not have a press, a local shop should press the new ones in relatively cheaply. Most likely your old ones are so worn when they try to press them out it will just rip the rubber and they will charge you more to remove the sleeve. About a half hour, a good metal flathead screwdriver and a hammer will get the existing sleeves out...


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Is there an easy way to tell when ? I have felt a sway (rear end slightly fish tailing) a couple times at over 70mph.

A few more questions on replacing them:

1) So to replace the lower bushings i will need a set for each side... 4 total ? 

2) Should the uppers be replace too ? I realize many places that sell parts want ya to replace everything, but I only hear that the lowers are failing.

3) 4x4parts recommendeds that you replace your stock trailing arm bolts when replacing bushings. I realize Old, stock bolts can rust in place and may need to be cut or drilled out to be removed but Has anyone actually needed these ? 

Also they want $40 for a set of 8... Can anyone reccamend where to get 1-4 botls and cheaper than $5 bolt.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Polyurethane bushings not only last longer but they are stiffer too, providing better performance than the OEM rubber bushings.
> 
> If you do not have a press, a local shop should press the new ones in relatively cheaply. Most likely your old ones are so worn when they try to press them out it will just rip the rubber and they will charge you more to remove the sleeve. About a half hour, a good metal flathead screwdriver and a hammer will get the existing sleeves out...


Can you or anyone provide a rough ballpark of what to expect a garage to charge to press out old bushings and put in new ones...4 total bushings??? $50 total? $100? $200?

TW...This thread has inspired me to do the job myself with the poly ones....maybe we could split the 8 bolts...as I will only need 4 myself?? And BTW...DO get the bolts...when I did this job back in2004 I had to cut BOTH ends off each bolt...and STILL had a time hammering out the middle part. They rusted in REAL good.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Is there an easy way to tell when ? I have felt a sway (rear end slightly fish tailing) a couple times at over 70mph.
> 
> A few more questions on replacing them:
> 
> ...


Yes you will need 2 sets of bushings. You do not need to replace the uppers, but its something that never hurts if you are motivated enough. And buy the bolts, you will most likely need to replace your current ones because you may need to cut them out, and just buy their bolts, dealer prices aren't much better when you factor in shipping. They are grade 8 (metric 10.4 I believe?) suspension bolts that have a smooth shaft located where the bushing is, you can't just buy these at a local hardware store...


piste: I honestly have no idea how much they would charge since we got a press from harbor freight reasonably priced to use for other things as well...I would say call around and provide the information and get quotes...


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## Flyby (Dec 11, 2007)

Thanks for all the info.

I've been following along, I now understand the problem that I've been experiencing with my own 98 Pathy and I know what I need to do to fix it.

I just need to find a parts supplier in Western Canada, or one in the US with shipping to Canada that is not cost prohibative.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> piste: I honestly have no idea how much they would charge since we got a press from harbor freight reasonably priced to use for other things as well...I would say call around and provide the information and get quotes...


Thanks Laxman...Just saw on harbor freight that I can get a 6 ton press delivered for $100. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Always looking for excuse to buy another tool. Last few questions...
Does one need tool ends for the press to do the job? 
Is 6 tons powerful enough??..I would think so.
And last time I think I just got the rear wheels on ramps and put jack stands under the frame for safety before removing links...that sound ok?

I could buy the press and the bushings/bolts for total under $250..and vs. having dealer put in new links I'd come out saving $300 or so and have better bushings and a 6 ton shop press to show for it!!!


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Flyby said:


> Thanks for all the info.
> 
> I've been following along, I now understand the problem that I've been experiencing with my own 98 Pathy and I know what I need to do to fix it.
> 
> I just need to find a parts supplier in Western Canada, or one in the US with shipping to Canada that is not cost prohibative.


Call 4x4parts.com, I know they have shipped to many Canadian members of NPORA.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

piste said:


> Thanks Laxman...Just saw on harbor freight that I can get a 6 ton press delivered for $100. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
> 
> Always looking for excuse to buy another tool. Last few questions...
> Does one need tool ends for the press to do the job?
> ...


I would say have all 6 point metric tools with a breaker bar and a cheater bar add on to hopefully break the nuts and bolts loose on the lower control arms. 6 tons should be enough, I did it with 12 tons very easily. I don't recall using any specific tools since the ram on the press was pretty large, just go slowly and carefully putting it in, its better to restart if it is going crooked then have it shoot out and hurt you or damage something. Usually I put jack stand under the frame and the axle to make sure nothing moves, if anything I think it would be easier to put them only under the axle so it doesn't move when you remove the links. Do one side at a time so it moves as little as possible.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Hey Piste, yea same here... I knew they should be done soon, this thread is a reminder to do it for it's too late. I will contact you regarding the bolts after I get more pricing.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Flyby said:


> Thanks for all the info.
> 
> I've been following along, I now understand the problem that I've been experiencing with my own 98 Pathy and I know what I need to do to fix it.
> 
> I just need to find a parts supplier in Western Canada, or one in the US with shipping to Canada that is not cost prohibative.


Thanks for droping by !! I have checked all the big parts dealers on the east coast. Napa is the only one that carries them here... they go for $29 retail (EZ 10% Business discount) I am going to get some quotes from 4x4parts & NPD shipped to canada.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Rear lower control link bushings are available OEM from dealers. On my site they are $17.49 ea.


Great except I can't find them on your site ! Can you provide the part number ? 

Do you also carry the Grade 10.9 bolts and nuts to replace the stock hardware when installing new trailing (control) arm bushings ?


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Great except I can't find them on your site ! Can you provide the part number ?
> 
> Do you also carry the Grade 10.9 bolts and nuts to replace the stock hardware when installing new trailing (control) arm bushings ?


Those are rubber bushings...polyurethane will last you much longer and make the rear a bit sharper...4x4parts.com is the only carrier of them I have seen...


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

There is not much demand for the bolts and nuts here in southern California (no rust) so I don't stock them. But I can get them in 2 days. The bolts run $2.64 ea and the nuts are $0.80 ea plus shipping.

The part number for the bushings is 55045-0W023


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## Flyby (Dec 11, 2007)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Thanks for droping by !! I have checked all the big parts dealers on the east coast. Napa is the only one that carries them here... they go for $29 retail (EZ 10% Business discount) I am going to get some quotes from 4x4parts & NPD shipped to canada.





laxman0324 said:


> Call 4x4parts.com, I know they have shipped to many Canadian members of NPORA.


Thanks,
I think that I will check out NAPA and see if Lordco carries them as well.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> There is not much demand for the bolts and nuts here in southern California (no rust) so I don't stock them. But I can get them in 2 days. The bolts run $2.64 ea and the nuts are $0.80 ea plus shipping.
> 
> The part number for the bushings is 55045-0W023


I seen the part on your site 2 days ago but now i can't find it when search for a 97 pathfinder..... can you provide the link so eveyone needing they can easliy find them.

Understandable... for the bolts and 2 days is fine. 

Will you ship to canada ? I believe USPS $25 Flat rate boxes should be fine, that's what other sites offer as the best rate to ship 4 bushings and the arm nuts & bolts.


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Nissan Parts - Your best source for Nissan Parts and Accessories - 24/7 The bolts and nuts won't show up on my site, just let me know in the order and I will modify it to include them then send it back to you to confirm. 
We normally don't ship out of the usa but I will see what we can do and let you know tomorrow. It should be workable.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Flyby said:


> Thanks,
> I think that I will check out NAPA and see if Lordco carries them as well.


Great share your findings ! FYI NAPA part # is 2674493 and according to the website is "High Quality Rubber Is Resistant To Environmental Factors & Extends Service Life" 

Here is the skinny on cost:
NPD is $15 cheaper than napa on four if he can ship them and 4x4 parts is $20 more than NPD* 

* if shipping is the same 
* 4X4 parts is a polyurethane, NPD is OEM (Rubber)
* the bolts seem to sold only as a set of 8 only from 4x4parts


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Pathy, I can ship the parts USPS as you sugested in a $25.00 flat rate box. 

Also, you indicate that 4x4parts is the only place to get the bolts. If you look back to my prior post, I indicated that I can supply the bolts and nuts at $2.64 and $0.80 ea. They just are not listed on my site.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Pathy, I can ship the parts USPS as you sugested in a $25.00 flat rate box.
> 
> Also, you indicate that 4x4parts is the only place to get the bolts. If you look back to my prior post, I indicated that I can supply the bolts and nuts at $2.64 and $0.80 ea. They just are not listed on my site.


So a full set of bolts/nuts for both lower links is about $14 from you. Better than spending $37 or so and getting the upper link hardware I don't need. Any idea on shipping to PA for just the bolts/nuts? Seems you don't have poly bushings right? I'm set on putting poly ones in...I may not own my pathy 6 more years ...but I don't want to EVER do these links again!

Ironic you say you are in SoCal. I bought my '97 in Mass...moved to L.A. in 2001...and had to cut my rusted lower link bolts off in 2004!! Guess the first 4 years of east coast rust took its toll! Also had to replace my entire exhaust when in SoCal...dealer wasn't quite sure what to do since they hardly ever see rust!!


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

piste, your looking at about $5.00 shipping to pa.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Get polyurethane bushing! I can only say the benefits so many times, there is absolutely no reason to go back to rubber unless you like having to do this every 5 or so years...


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Get polyurethane bushing! I can only say the benefits so many times, there is absolutely no reason to go back to rubber unless you like having to do this every 5 or so years...


Hey Laxman....if you are addressing this to me...as I said above I won't do rubber ever again. If you are addressing to everyone else...well I'll more than second your motion and totally agree to go polyurethane....It's crazy money what dealers get to replace the whole links...some $500 or more with parts and labor....all because of failure of a small piece of rubber worth a couple of dollars!!! AND they'll only put in OEM ones which are rubber only and will fail again in a handful of years...no OEM polyurethane ones as far as I know.

I WAS gonna go that route..but on closer look of the economics...I'll do it myself (second time I've done this job) and do it polyurethane!!


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

NissanPartsDept said:


> piste, your looking at about $5.00 shipping to pa.


Cool. I'll be back to you.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

To everyone...get polyurethane bushings...


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Get polyurethane bushing! I can only say the benefits so many times, there is absolutely no reason to go back to rubber unless you like having to do this every 5 or so years...


Yea I hear ya for about $20 more the polyurethane are probally a better value..... However to play devils advocate my OEM have lasted 13 years and most likey won't be on the road in another 5 years


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Yea I hear ya for about $20 more the polyurethane are probally a better value..... However to play devils advocate my OEM have lasted 13 years and most likey won't be on the road in another 5 years


I think your experience is the exception one..and extreme at that...and not the norm. I am orig owner of my 97...replaced lower links in 2004...7 yrs....and am up again for replacment 6 yrs hence. That's fairly typical AFAIK. I'll wager yours will go in the next few years...if not...great for you...if they do.. a couple extra bucks in poly ones is cheap insurance. good luck.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Yea I think I will go with the poly for the value.... lax says they perform better too. The extra $20 isn't much to ensure they are the only set I will replace. 

I realize I have been really lucky to go this long.... don't want to push it. I am gonna get them replaced soon just to be safe and for peace of mind


hopefully 4x4 parts can split the bolts between orders, if so I am in.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Yea I think I will go with the poly for the value.... lax says they perform better too. The extra $20 isn't much to ensure they are the only set I will replace.
> 
> I realize I have been really lucky to go this long.... don't want to push it. I am gonna get them replaced soon just to be safe and for peace of mind
> 
> ...



Actually that idea of mine of splitting the bolt order wont' work as 4 bolts are for the lower links and 4 for the upper and I think they are different spec. Just get the lower bolts from NPD..see above.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Flyby said:


> Thanks,
> I think that I will check out NAPA and see if Lordco carries them as well.


Where you able to find they locally ? If not I found a website that has both types and free shipping in Canada (over $75)


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

the polys i bought from 4X4 .com were split so ya can put um in your self.(no press) (98 pathy)


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Did you get replacment bolts ?


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

no, bought some at lowes just because the old bolts/nuts had to be ground off due to rust.(just the lower bolts) i just replaced the lowers first then the uppers second (bushings)


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

98 patty said:


> the polys i bought from 4X4 .com were split so ya can put um in your self.(no press) (98 pathy)


Hey thanks!! That's awesome. Solves that problem for me! I was considering either buying a 6 ton press for $90 (though always looking for excuse to buy a new tool have no desire to own a press) or have a local garage do the pressing for me. Called PepBoys yesterday and the guy quoted me $35....PER BUSHING to press out old and press in new ones...gimme a break. I figure doing all 4 would've taken about 15 minutes max with a press...so that's $140 for 15 mins work!! Needless to say that was not gonna happen.

BTW...Being as I do not have a press...I presume that if needed I can just cut/drill out the old bushings??? I'm getting some pretty good play when I try to turn the lower link with my hand so figuring the rubber is pretty worn to start with.

Edit to add: Being as they come in two pieces per bushing...wouldn't that have a negative impact on performance and wear?


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## Flyby (Dec 11, 2007)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Where you able to find they locally ? If not I found a website that has both types and free shipping in Canada (over $75)


Haven't had a chance to check yet. What is the website?


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

2 pieces left and right the bolt holds it together 4x4parts .com shows a pic of um also i punched out therubber then very slowly used a sawsall to cut the outer metal bushing be careful to not cut too far or you can chisel it out


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

98 patty said:


> 2 pieces left and right the bolt holds it together 4x4parts .com shows a pic of um also i punched out therubber then very slowly used a sawsall to cut the outer metal bushing be careful to not cut too far or you can chisel it out


Thanks. By "outer metal bushing" I presume you mean an outer sleeve. Seems these have an innner and outer sleeve?

And also...a clarification straight from 4x4parts.com..."The bushings that are one piece and blue are more difficult to install then the red bushings which are split design." And I have to believe the split design does not perform as well as the one piece...however marginal that difference may be.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Or you could go here https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-trailing-arm-bushings-p-713.html and get two sets for about $100 shipped and replace the bushings yourself. Replacing the entire control arm is silly but a dealer would probably cost you even more with labor to replace the bushings themselves then to just buy all new links.
> 
> Plus those are polyurethane bushings, which will last you forever.


Do you know if those come with outer sleeves? Pic only shows innner ones.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Factory rubber bushings have outer sleeves. The ones from 4x4parts.com do not have outer sleeves. I am not sure what benefit they provide, but I have never heard of anyone replacing the polyurethane bushings so I wouldn't worry about that.

And on the split bushing topic: those are a new addition to 4x4parts bushing lineup, I know a lot of member bought the 1 piece ones and cut them in half and have not had any wear issues in years of use. I don't know if the material on the split bushings is the same but I would bet they are going to last the lifetime of the vehicle just like the one piece ones will.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Factory rubber bushings have outer sleeves. The ones from 4x4parts.com do not have outer sleeves. I am not sure what benefit they provide, but I have never heard of anyone replacing the polyurethane bushings so I wouldn't worry about that.
> 
> And on the split bushing topic: those are a new addition to 4x4parts bushing lineup, I know a lot of member bought the 1 piece ones and cut them in half and have not had any wear issues in years of use. I don't know if the material on the split bushings is the same but I would bet they are going to last the lifetime of the vehicle just like the one piece ones will.


Thanks a lot. I truly appreciate the info. You've cleared up a lot of questions I had after other posts on here. To be 100% clear...if replacing factory bushings...I presume the outer sleeve has to come out (pressed or cut out) as the poly bushing would not fit with the outer sleeve still in...then the poly bushing goes in (via a press if one piece) without an outer sleeve?

FWIW...at this point I'm gonna do the whole job myself...mostly cuz I want to save the $$$ vs what a garage/dealer would charge...AND I want to put poly bushings in as... a) I never want to do this job again AND ...b) I want the stiffer performance or poly!!! Dealer will only put in more OEM links with crappy rubber bushings. Planning to pick up a 6 ton press...probably will use it on rear upper links and other things as it seems Pathy's tend to go through bushings in short order on all the various suspension parts...at least mine has.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

piste said:


> Thanks a lot. I truly appreciate the info. You've cleared up a lot of questions I had after other posts on here. To be 100% clear...if replacing factory bushings...I presume the outer sleeve has to come out (pressed or cut out) as the poly bushing would not fit with the outer sleeve still in...then the poly bushing goes in (via a press if one piece) without an outer sleeve?
> 
> FWIW...at this point I'm gonna do the whole job myself...mostly cuz I want to save the $$$ vs what a garage/dealer would charge...AND I want to put poly bushings in as... a) I never want to do this job again AND ...b) I want the stiffer performance or poly!!! Dealer will only put in more OEM links with crappy rubber bushings. Planning to pick up a 6 ton press...probably will use it on rear upper links and other things as it seems Pathy's tend to go through bushings in short order on all the various suspension parts...at least mine has.


Yes. I tried doing it without removing the sleeve and I just could not get it to go in. Using a sawzalll to cut the sleeve is a great idea, as pressing the old bushing out will probably rip the rubber apart and push out the center sleeve (for the bolt). At least that was my experience on both of my Pathies...


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

piste said:


> I'm getting some pretty good play when I try to turn the lower link with my hand so figuring the rubber is pretty worn to start with.


I was under the truck today to tighten my end caps and decided to check out my bushings.... the have no play at all..... even with a lot of force they didn't move a hair. 

I am guessing this means they are beyond worn and the rubber has fused to make them stiff ? 

This can't be good, has anyone seen this when replacing them ?


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> I was under the truck today to tighten my end caps and decided to check out my bushings.... the have no play at all..... even with a lot of force they didn't move a hair.
> 
> I am guessing this means they are beyond worn and the rubber has fused to make them stiff ?
> 
> This can't be good, has anyone seen this when replacing them ?


Ummm....no play at all would be a symptom of a potentially totally fine bushing...


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## 180SX-X (Sep 21, 2003)

x2 on totally fine bushing. Don't get crazy!


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

That would be nice but ttbomk, the bushings are original.... that can't be possible.... right ? 

I checked with the previous owner he believes the are orgional too and positive they have not replaced in the last 5 years.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> That would be nice but ttbomk, the bushings are original.... that can't be possible.... right ?
> 
> I checked with the previous owner he believes the are orgional too and positive they have not replaced in the last 5 years.


Well...anythings possible but I'd have to say it would be pretty unusual to get 105K and 13 years on a 97 and still have original bushings being just fine. But bottom line is...if there's no play you are probably ok. Unless you think the bushings petrified themselves or something are providing no cushioning....doubtful. My money would be on the notion that someone did the job at some point. 

From when to when did the previous owner have the vehicle? I suppose if most of the 105K are nice highway miles that doesn't put as much wear on the bushings.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Yea i would like to believe that I am just really lucky but as I mentioned in earlier post I believe they are do to be replaced. 

I don't feel that lucky and want to have them done before something happens. Also the diving has been virtually all city driven.... so the problem may have never been detected because it has rarley been driving around 65 mph ??

I know the vechiles history for over 5 years. My brother knows the origonal owner; he is also who is not aware of them every being replaced. 

Since there where recalls maybe I am going to contact the dealship where it has always been to serviced to find out if they where ever replaced. I hear car history reports are rip off unless you have a membership they are $40-60

thanks for any input I j am suprised/ concered there is no play at with the amount of force I used on the lower control arm


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Has anyone heard of the OEM bushings being on so long the ruber fused making the bushing completely stiff ?


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

TW_Pathy_97 said:


> Has anyone heard of the OEM bushings being on so long the ruber fused making the bushing completely stiff ?


Hey TW,
Do you yourself have the rocking at high speeds in your PAthy? So many have posted here I forget who has the problem and who doesn't. If you don't have the symptom then to do the job purely as a preventative measure would be a waste in my opinion. Wait til you need to do it...and you very likely will. But to each their own.

BTW...what makes you think the rubber might have petrified? What makes you think things are other than totally fine?


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Piste... I hear ya, there has been a few of us that have been posting on this on... It's great to get all the info out, mabey an admin might consider a sticky for this common of a problem.

So yea I have felt the sway a few times in the last year but I was thinking it may have been more road conditions than a handling issue. 

Since it's not a problem with any frequency it wasn't on my mind untill this thread got a few of us thinking ... Hey i should replace mine.

Then when I checked the arms and busings for play... they are rock solid, so that's where i am trying to figure if they are really old bushings that have petrified or if they somehow are the mircale OEM's that are fine. 

So that's where I ssit trying to figure out if I should proacctivley get them replaced but not wanting to throw money at a problem that may not be there. 

This is why it took some convincing from laxman that the polys are so much superior. Now my understanding is that all R50's go through sets of lower OEM bushing about every 5 years... so from that school I am overdue ..... they might be like my 12 year old OEM battery... but I am not that lucky.

I am going to have a look at them again after supper.... just looking at the outter sleaves they have been there for a few moons if not from day 1.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

So I checked out the bushings again ast night... I can't move the rear lower control arm without the whole truck "swaying". To me they look like the orgional set. Below are some pictures Of the arm and bushings on the passenger side .







Anyone that replaced thier own bushings please share your thoughts.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

*Bolts Needed Locally for Rear Lower Control arms*



98 patty said:


> no, bought some at lowes just because the old bolts/nuts had to be ground off due to rust.(just the lower bolts) i just replaced the lowers first then the uppers second (bushings)


I understood the bolts where something special.... you where able to go to lowe's and get bolts that have the flat spot for the bushing and are strong enough to hold up ?

This will be of great help to me, as you can see above mine are going to have to be grinded out as well. 

The problem for me is I need to have replacment bolts handy before I go to my dad's (2 hours from a lowes). I need to replace the old ones to get a good look at my bushings to see what condition they are in.

I was starting to wonder why 4x4 parts is the only site that lists the bolts.

They List "Grade 10.9 bolts and nuts"


Quoted from Laxman 

"They are grade 8 (metric 10.4 I believe?)"

He also said harware store bolts won't work... but it seems they did for you.
*
Anyone know the bolt specs for sure ? 
Also experience with finding them at Lowes ?*


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

most hardware bolts are grade 5.i found the grade 8 in the "specialty" bolt bin/drawer i took a new busing with me for length, also nylock nuts


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

laxman0324 said:


> Yes. I tried doing it without removing the sleeve and I just could not get it to go in. Using a sawzalll to cut the sleeve is a great idea, as pressing the old bushing out will probably rip the rubber apart and push out the center sleeve (for the bolt). At least that was my experience on both of my Pathies...


Followup question for you....When pressing in new bushing...did you put the innner sleeve into the bushing BEFORE you pressed the bushing into the link? Or did you press the bushing in first and then put in the inner sleeve? And what surfaces should be greased?


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

i put bushing in first then inner sleeve greased inner sleeve inside(just greased bolt) and outside. inside to keep bolt from freezing up like the old one did. outside for the sleeve to be able to pivot/ work while driving.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Experts....please confirm if the picture below is the where the bushings are for the rear lower control arm ?










I want to make sure I am looking in the right spot !!!


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

yes that is correct


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## flamefighter (Dec 17, 2008)

I have a '96 Pathfinder, mine was doing the same thing. Here is what I had to have done. Slightly expensive but way less than wrecking this one and having to buy again. --- Replaces both front struts, both rear shocks, left and right inner and outer wheel bearings on the front, left front axle, front passenger side rock and pionion bushings, left and right front inner seals, (also replaced brake pads on front drivers and passenger side, had nothing to do with the rocking but I only have a total repair cost, not a itemized bill) Parts $465.00 Labor $256.00 Total $721.00 A guy I know dragraces and owns his own repair shop, very good, very fast work. Known himall my life not sure if I was given any reduction in price but that should be pretty close at least on the parts. 
He had other jobs to do, so I took it back a few days later to have the rear checked over. --- Replaces 4 bottom bushing in the rear total parts and labor for that was $270.00 - Total bill for everyting was $991.00. Problem fixed.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

flamefighter said:


> I have a '96 Pathfinder, mine was doing the same thing. Here is what I had to have done. Slightly expensive but way less than wrecking this one and having to buy again. --- Replaces both front struts, both rear shocks, left and right inner and outer wheel bearings on the front, left front axle, front passenger side rock and pionion bushings, left and right front inner seals, (also replaced brake pads on front drivers and passenger side, had nothing to do with the rocking but I only have a total repair cost, not a itemized bill) Parts $465.00 Labor $256.00 Total $721.00 A guy I know dragraces and owns his own repair shop, very good, very fast work. Known himall my life not sure if I was given any reduction in price but that should be pretty close at least on the parts.
> He had other jobs to do, so I took it back a few days later to have the rear checked over. --- Replaces 4 bottom bushing in the rear total parts and labor for that was $270.00 - Total bill for everyting was $991.00. Problem fixed.


Interesting.. a few thoughts....I'm fairly certain you did not need to do all that work to fix the rocking symptom....but all that work may have been needed for other reasons. I'm guessing those rear lower link bushings were the culprit. That being said...keep that guy as a friend....what you paid for all that work is about 1/3 to 1/4 of what I would have estimated!! Local garage just quoted me $120 a piece for KYB struts...that's $240 in parts for that one thing alone!! Needless to say they did not get the business.


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## 180SX-X (Sep 21, 2003)

yea, your bushings were the culprit, but good to know you got new life in your pathy!

Jose


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

flamefighter said:


> I have a '96 Pathfinder, mine was doing the same thing. Here is what I had to have done. Slightly expensive but way less than wrecking this one and having to buy again. --- Replaces both front struts, both rear shocks, left and right inner and outer wheel bearings on the front, left front axle, front passenger side rock and pionion bushings, left and right front inner seals, (also replaced brake pads on front drivers and passenger side, had nothing to do with the rocking but I only have a total repair cost, not a itemized bill) Parts $465.00 Labor $256.00 Total $721.00 A guy I know dragraces and owns his own repair shop, very good, very fast work. Known himall my life not sure if I was given any reduction in price but that should be pretty close at least on the parts.
> He had other jobs to do, so I took it back a few days later to have the rear checked over. --- Replaces 4 bottom bushing in the rear total parts and labor for that was $270.00 - Total bill for everyting was $991.00. Problem fixed.


BTW...mind sharing what struts and shocks you put in? There's another thread on here about struts/shock alternatives....I need new ones myself and am trying to research. Thx.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

*Followup question..what to cut bolts with?*

I'm set to replace my lower link bushings this weekend. Being as one often has to cut the bolts out....I'm curious on opinions of whether to use an angle grinder or Sawzall (I have both) or something else?

Last time I did them I used an angle grinder and that did the job. But wondering if a Sawzall might be equally effective whilst also minimizing risk of collateral damage to the bracket that might occur if the angle grinder slips a bit.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

How did the switch go ? I am gonna get mine done next weekend.


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## flamefighter (Dec 17, 2008)

piste said:


> BTW...mind sharing what struts and shocks you put in? There's another thread on here about struts/shock alternatives....I need new ones myself and am trying to research. Thx.


Sorry, I have no idea which was used. I just took it to him and let him do his thing. Sorry!!


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

piste said:


> I'm set to replace my lower link bushings this weekend. Being as one often has to cut the bolts out....I'm curious on opinions of whether to use an angle grinder or Sawzall (I have both) or something else?
> 
> Last time I did them I used an angle grinder and that did the job. But wondering if a Sawzall might be equally effective whilst also minimizing risk of collateral damage to the bracket that might occur if the angle grinder slips a bit.


grinder:waving:, i tried the sazall just kept dulling the blades:lame: reason? duh....the bolts and inner sleeve are hardened!:asleep:


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

Are you saying the bolts where harded to the bushings as in you cannot sperate the two ?

I was going to gring my bolts out this weekend to get a look at the bushings and just replace the bolts and order new bushings if needed.


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

you don't need to do that. just try to twist the arms if they move they need new bushings. my bolts were rusted together(sleeve and bolt). i had to grind off the head's and nuts to get them out. just grind up to bracket then pry apart the bracket so you can get arm out.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

Hey guys...started my project today. Got the blue polyurethane bushings from 4x4 parts. Bought a 12 ton shop press from Harbor Freight to use for the job.

Good news...got both bolts out on driver side link without having to do any cutting. When I did this job in 2004 I sprayed the bolts with a bit of WD40 and that seemed to pay off 6 years later. Pressed out the inner sleeve and some of the rubber with the press. Then got the outer sleeve out....highly recommend use of a Sawzall but use a delicate hand so as not to cut through to the link.. then hack away with hammer and flat head screwdriver and they both came out fine. Then the trouble started....

Bad News...can't get the new bushings in!! Everything I try with the press keeps slipping off to the side. I finally used a technique involving a socket and small piece of wood...got the bushing through but the small lip that goes around it basically cut and didn't go through...stayed on the upper side. So I had to back that bushing out. I did have the inner sleeve in the bushing before I pressed it into the link...maybe that was a part of the problem....but have tried numerous times without the inner sleeve and just cannot get the bushing in. Here's the bushings I got...'97 Pathfinder. 
https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/pathfinder-trailing-arm-bushings-p-713.html

Not sure what the purpose of that little lip at each end of the bushing is for. With the one I've trashed ...only thing I can think to do is cut it off and push the bushing in. With the other three...I can either continue to try a way to push them in...OR just cut in half and go that route. Can also cut the one I trashed in half as another option. Am done for the night and will pick it up tomorrow...so any input or advice tonight would be highly valued!!!!! Thanks in advance.


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## 98 patty (Jun 9, 2007)

i bought the red split ones. i would split them like the red ones i bought in the cat. i mean their secured by the bolt at both ends(can't go anywhere) also, 4x4parts.com makes them that way, is which waay cool :cheers:


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

98 patty said:


> i bought the red split ones. i would split them like the red ones i bought in the cat. i mean their secured by the bolt at both ends(can't go anywhere) also, 4x4parts.com makes them that way, is which waay cool :cheers:


I'm thinking that's probably the better choice at this point. I went with the one piece figuring they would be a bit better performance. But that's probably pretty marginal...and given the hassles I'm having right now...and the lack of need for a shop press with the two piece....wishing I went the split route now. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

98 patty said:


> you don't need to do that. just try to twist the arms if they move they need new bushings. my bolts were rusted together(sleeve and bolt). i had to grind off the head's and nuts to get them out. just grind up to bracket then pry apart the bracket so you can get arm out.


I hear ya, thanks for the info.... I have a really crazy situation and would really appreciate your thoughts: 

My links will not budge as is bolted in, so that seems to mean they are fine, right ?

The problem is I have felt an occasional jerk in the rear of my 97 at highway speeds in the last year. 

I contacted Nissan to get a service History of the vehicle and they said the sway bar and other rear suspension where done about 4 years ago, but these bushing where never replaced.

I am really stuck between "they are fine and don't mess with them" and 
they are so old and are either beyond needing replacement and have somehow fused to the point where the links don't move.

What should I do ?


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

*Reversal of Fortune*

MUCH better day today!! Found a method to get the bushings in. Now just need to hopefully get a replacement for the one I ripped. I really like the look of the blue poly bushings...hopefully they will ride well which is what really counts. So today I'm feeling glad I got the one piece ones. BTW...pressed in bushing first without the inner sleeve then pressed the inner sleeve in.

Had some challenges getting the second, passenger side, link out. Couldn't get much result with the wrenches and breaker bar...started to do some cutting. But ended up getting both bolts out with a new 19 mm deep socket.

Getting the old bearings out is a pain. You absolutely WILL NOT press out the old bushing...without...as the shop manual says...a "suitable tool"...whatever the heck that is. Reality is you push out with a press...... or otherwise cut out... the center sleeve with whatever rubber comes out with it....then hack out the outer sleeve. And as far as that goes...I had best success with combination of Sawzall...go lightly...and pounding away with hammer and flat head scredriver. By the fourth one you get pretty good at it.


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## piste (Dec 23, 2009)

*Bolts - Which is which?*

OK...so my Pathy is still apart whilst I await a replacement bushing from 4x4parts for the one that ripped (they charged me for the replacement). I just realized that four of the bolts are longer than the others. Otherwise they appear to be identical. I did not pay attention before taking the links off...so now I don't know where the long ones go vs. the shorter ones. Four of them have a "6" stamped on the bolt head and the other four have an "S" stamped on it...forget which had which. Anyone know where the short and long ones go? I have the shop manual which I've checked..and also checked online parts diagrams and can't figure it out.


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## pstapler (Jun 3, 2008)

I know this is an old thread but my '01 has started this exact problem. Wish I had found this thread prior to today as I replaced my shocks and struts TODAY...and I too still have the problem. 

So I have read the entire thread but I am confused at how replacing rear lower control arm link bushings cause severe wobbling in the front of the vehicle. Im not second guessing anyone. You guys obviously know what you are talking about. I just can't get my head around rear suspension causing uncontrollable wobbling in the front. 

Can you guys explain before I throw more $$$ at this?


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Replacing the bushings does not cause the wobbling. It fixes it.
It is actually the entire vehicle that is wobbling in this case. Due to the rear bushings being worn to the point that they do not keep the rear tires in allignment with the front.
I cannot say this is the problem with your vehicle. As you have not giving any information on your exact problem.
The rear bushings are easy to check and if they show any excessive play, they should be replaced.


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