# AWD fluids/maintenance on the XTrail?



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

Hello again  .....quick vehicle history on my 2006 XTrail, 2.5 L WITH AUTO/OD and all wheel drive, i bought it on a trade in last Fall 2016 with around 215,000 klms....great vehicle, love it...i have changed the oil twice, filters, light bulbs, tranny fluid, etc and lately the two oxygen sensors cam shaft sensor. Should i have my differential fluid changed out? I have never owned a AWD vehicle and altho my used xtrail seemed to have been well looked after for a then 10 year old truck...i have no idea if previous owner(s) have done any service to the awd system . Everything seems to work fine , had some snow last year and i played around with the awd control settings, but mostly i leave it in auto mode or switch to ''lock'' in heavy rain. I could ask my mechanic to check the fluid...but for now i will see what responses on this subject i get from you guys . One last thing...how much is reasonable (here in Canada) to service/change awd fluid, if needed? thanks !


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

* found some fluid capaCity info on various xtrail years/models that might help others .....What Type of Transmission Fluid for Nissan X-Trail. Capacity*


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Here 20$ for the oil
20$ filler bolt with washer
2$ of propane
4 beers
Lots of swearing

Remind your mechanic to undo the filler bolt before draining(maybe he knows that already)


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## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

It is fairly easy to change the differential and transfer case oil. I do mine every 50,000km. 

I would use synthetic 75w90 gear oil. You'll need 1 or 1.5 litres (1 is enough if you are careful and don't spill any). The rear diff is really easy. It takes about 0.55 L of oil. The transfer case is a pain due to tight quarters. It only takes 0.35 L. 

As otomodo said, make sure you can take out the fill plugs first. You can get a new crush washer for the rear diff drain bolt. You need grey rtv silicone for the transfer case drain bolt.


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

thanks guys...is this something that should be done on a hoist or ok to do on ramps in the driveway? (maybe i slip $30 to the next -to my -work mechanic and ask him to do it while im next door working in my shop) on a saturday.


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## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

Ramps won't cut it. You need to get the x-trail level when filling the diff and transfer case. You put oil in to the filler oil until it starts to run out. If you have the front elevated, you won't be able to put the proper amount of fluid back in.

I use a floor jack and jack stands. I jack up the front, put the jack stands in place and then drain the diff and transfer case. Once the draining is done, I jack up the rear and put jack stands under the back. Then fill the diff and transfer case. Then remove the jack stands from the front and back.


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

* thanks Chadn , i was thinking the same (level while draining..)....i dont have jackstands. So looks like i give my XTrail over to my business neighbor mechanic and bribe him with food/beer/bbq /money to just do it for me. *


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

It will be money or food well spent. I am curious as to the state of the gear oil in both. Its been four years or so since I did mine, so I should probably consider a new change. The transfer case is the pain to get at and fill. Word to the wise re your awd system, if its on dry pavement leave it in 2wd mode. Use auto setting when on dirt roads, or wet roads. Lock setting only when you need full awd and will be driving under 40 km/h. Originally sales people were telling buyers to leave it in auto all the time, many a transfer case suffered premature failure as a result. Other thing is despite its being in the servicing guidelines, its the very rare mechanic who goes to the trouble of checking out the state of the gear oil. My guess is that unless you know its been done, its almost guaranteed that it was never done in the past.


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

''My guess is that unless you know its been done, its almost guaranteed that it was never done in the past.''...yes, exactly quadraria10, good advice. Also you read my thoughts on the usage of our XTrail awd system. I only use the awd in very rainy west coast weather (that would be 233 days of the year in Vancouver,,,arghhhhh) or awd Lock setting the few times it actually snowed in the winter. Otherwise i leave it in 2 WD and let it drive like a front wheel drive vehicle. I was thinking the same thing about excessive awd usage on non slippery surfaces would probably bind up the system or cause some premature expensive awd repair at some point. Curious if the awd systems in honda crv/mazda 5/ toyota rav4 is a simpler (and not a true awd system ) system. I believe i read many times over that those awd systems are a slip and grip awd, where the vehicle behaves like a front drive vehicle until the computer senses front wheel slippage and splits awd traction 70% front/ 30% rear and then when no slippage, back to 100% front wheel. To be honest im very content with our XTrail awd and the lock feature, but 90% of my driving is in front wheel mode and the rest auto awd on rainy days in the city. There might be a few times where i might go fishing and take a logging road or some muddy/gravel path..or a trip in winter to Whistler ski resort 75 klms north of Vancouver...but i am realistic in not expecting the xtrail to be a hardcore jeep wrangler 4x4 or toyota 4 runner with skid plates . I just really love the fact i can put some confidence in a nice little awd suv when and if i need extra traction.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Word to the wise re your awd system, if its on dry pavement leave it in 2wd mode. Use auto setting when on dirt roads, or wet roads. Lock setting only when you need full awd and will be driving under 40 km/h. Originally sales people were telling buyers to leave it in auto all the time, many a transfer case suffered premature failure as a result. .


Curious as to the reasoning of the above.

I haven't really studied the Nissan AWD but I understood that, in AUTO, it was in front wheel drive until the ABS sensor reported slippage. If you drove nearly exclusively on dry pavement without slippage (in Auto), then the transfer case should never engage? Or is there an idler bearing or something?

I could understand your comment in regard to a 4WD with a locking differential, it would be tough on everything drive related to be constantly engaged.

I tend to drive in 2WD in the summer on pavement, AUTO in the winter on pavement (because of black ice, etc.) and really only use LOCK on logging roads. I generally don't drive fast in LOCK because conditions/terrain won't allow it (which is why I put it in LOCK in the first place


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

I too have not studied the system yet. I am very familiar with the excellent system used by Subaru having owned 6 of them. Three SVX and 3 Outbacks.
There is several reasons for the switch to engage the different modes, one of which may be to increase the life expectancy of the system.
Many like Subaru, Audi, Volkswagen, Mercedes and the xDrive on our BMW 535i GT are always on. In normal driving with no slipping detected they are still transmitting some amount of drive to the rear wheels. In the case of Subaru the split is 90/10.
In any AWD system there is inherent power loses even when the system is not engaged. By disengaging the system with the 2 WD switch, there is likely a small gain in mileage and slightly less wear in some of the components.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I guess I am just going by my understanding of the system from what I have read here and in the Aussie and UK forums over the years. Basically its a strategy to avoid overtaxing and overheating the system, cause less wear and tear and to maximize its longevity. After all transfer cases and rear differentials are not cheap to replace.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> I guess I am just going by my understanding of the system from what I have read here and in the Aussie and UK forums over the years. Basically its a strategy to avoid overtaxing and overheating the system, cause less wear and tear and to maximize its longevity. After all transfer cases and rear differentials are not cheap to replace.


Okay, that's basically what I thought as well. I was thinking you were referring to something more dire.

There are so many AWD systems out there that work in so many different ways. Like XHale, I know Subaru's system is always on, so I was of the opinion that putting our XTrails in 2wd was more of a fuel economy measure than anything else. I confess that when I was researching the Xtrail for purchase, I was much more interested in the lock option so I didn't really read much beyond that.


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

I ve driven the xtrail on 4wd mode pretty much in any conditions and any speed. 
To me the difference between the exxy and rav4,crv,etc...is the switch to lock it under 80 km/h. 
It s written in the owner s manual that even in 2wd it can switch to 4wd and i ve seen that backing up in a driveway a few winters ago 
You're aware that all of the mechanism inside of the differential moves freely even on 2wd?


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

otomodo said:


> You're aware that all of the mechanism inside of the differential moves freely even on 2wd?


That's why I was confused by the comment about not running too long in AWD Auto.

I had thought that "LOCK" locks the differential into 50/50 front/rear. Unless 1 of 2 things happen: 1) you drive over a certain speed. In which case it goes back to "AUTO", allowing the ECM to control front/rear power split, until the speed drops. When the speed drops, it goes back to "LOCK". Or 2) the transfer case or differential gets too hot, in which case it goes to 2WD until the temp drops. I'm not sure if you have to manually change it back to "AUTO" or "LOCK" at that point. I can see this happening during prolonged slogging thru deep snow or mud.

What I don't understand is how you would get overheating unless you were in deep stuff for an extended period or there was something wrong with the differential. If you're not stuck, the ECM will probably have it 2wd anyway (if you're in AUTO) or will have turned off the LOCK if you're going too fast or overheating. Frankly, I'm not sure what the 2WD position does that wouldn't be happening anyway in AUTO (except remove the option for the ECM from automatically engaging the rear wheels if needed)


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Probably the transfer case is the one getting hot. 
The resistance from the rear wheels and front wheels go through there. The xtrail doesn't have a system like this https://youtu.be/WeLm7wHvdxQ

I did a few donuts on snow and after a turn and a half power was restricted to the wheels. It went from 4000 rpm to 2000 rpm and nothing left on the gas pedal fully depressed.


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

X-hale, how was your experiences owning the subarus? I used to think that in the past (late 70s---early 2000s) Subes were either kinda dorky looking or underpowered, but well known for their superior awd systems. Last few years the subaru crosstrek caught my attention for it's 4 dr , jacked up awd hatchback look. The only thing i am leery of is the long term reliability of the cvts subaru offers....i am still studying the history, reliability and maintenance before i can put my confidence fully into them. I briefly worked at a part time job on weekends detailing new Subarus and i recall when they brought in the crosstreks.....they started off as really good sellers as the vehicle buyers loved them. I sat in a few of them and even briefly drove them around the block, but not enough to get an idea of engine performance or long term comfort. But they are a nice alternative to our Xtrail in about another 5 years if my Xtrail gets too old or repairs get to frequent/expensive....a 5-7 year old crosstrek or a honda HRV (also a cvt..) would be on my used small suv check list. 2018 Subaru Crosstrek Preview - Consumer Reports


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

this is an excellent review of the 2016-17 Crosstrek and a comparison of a few other small awd suvs towards end of the video. The main differences/changes that i discovered with the 2018 model are improved interior, hid headlights, improved awd and a bump up in horsepower to 152 HP.....still, the majority of these professional reviewers state the sube is kinda slow (0-60 is 9.5 secs) which is the average for just about every small suv sold in north america. Maybe a used 2015-16 mazda X-5 (184 hp, 4 cyl.) in the years to come might be in my driveway


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Please don't hijack your own thread


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

tonyvancity I sent you a PM re:Subaru


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

thanks Xhale for the info.


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