# Altima 2000 Codes PO325, 455, 1448



## Altima61 (Nov 21, 2011)

I have a 2000 Altima. I was getting PO325 and PO455 a few months ago. I bought a used evap canister with vent control valve at a local scrap yard. I installed the used vent control valve on my existing canister. I reset the ECM and the code disappeared for 1 week. (It had usually re-appeared after 2 days before the change).
Now I'm getting 325, 455 and now 1448. Questions...Is 325 due to the other two. It is impossible to install a new knock sensor without removing the intake manifold. The dealer wanted $900 for this...(thugs)
Should I just stop trying to save and get a new vent control valve, or should I be looking at something else??

Help...please....:waving::waving:


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

As far as the knock sensor, unless they are getting $120/hr., they're ripping you off a bit. The knock sensor, Nissan P/N 22060-30P00, MSRP's for $202.42. I'm sure you can get it a lot cheaper at an online Nissan vendor. You have to get under the vehicle to see the knock sensor, which sits at an 11 o'clock position from the oil filter. I thought you could get it out without removing the intake manifold, but it's been a long time since I had to work on one. ALLDATA shows two labor times: 
5.5 hours w/ intake manifold removal
0.7 hours w/out intake manifold removal
As far as replacing it, I would hold off on until you fix your other issue then erase the stored codes. Recheck for codes in a week, as a knock sensor will normally not set the CEL unless one of the wires or the sensor is shorted.

I don't recommend using used EVAP canisters and controls valves. The vent control valves were prone to sticking and as far as the canister, if the foam liner deteriorates, it could send tiny carbon bits throughout the EVAP system and be a real pain to clean out. The 455 code is an EVAP gross leak code while the P1448 is a vent control valve code. Chances are the used vent control valve is no good. If stuck open, it could cause a 455 code, but so can a lot of other things, including a bad or improperly installed gas cap, disconnected hose, leaking fuel sender seal, faulty EVAP pressure sensor, to name a few. Best way to test the system is with a smoke machine and a scantool compatable with the system, but this is not typically available to the DIY'er. At minimum, you'll need a Mighty Vac pump, a FSM, an adapter for the EVAP test port under the hood and a multimeter to backprobe either the pressure sensor or the ECM connector (at the wires for the pressure sensor) and help of a second person. It can be a real pain.


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