# RB, KA, SR for 300whp?



## Guest (Jun 17, 2003)

What is the cheapest route to getting 300hp on an s14 240? Should I build up a KA or go for either a sr20det or rb20/25det? Which would be easiest? Any response would be greatly appreciated? Thanks
FRank


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

your starting up one of the most controversial threads again.. all three are kick ass engines and are capable of 300hp easily. i would personally choose the KA or the SR


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## drift240sxdragqueen (Oct 23, 2002)

i would go with vsp3c sure the RB can get u 300whp but its just a waste of money cuz the two cheaper engines can do the same


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## Guest (Jun 17, 2003)

I would have to build up my internals before they can reach the stock hp that the rb has though, right? I mean I would rather do it in one shot instead of trying to do piece by piece. Can anyone give me an est. price of how much i would have to spend on my KA so that it can make at least 300hp on the wheels
? What parts would be neccessary to change? i.e. pistons headers injectors etc.


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## drift240sxdragqueen (Oct 23, 2002)

well i think (vsp3c or esyip can correct me if i'm wrong) but phase2motortrend has a SR20DET running like 487hp on stock internals so there u go


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

487...474..no difference 

phase2's 240sx is producing 474hp on a stock bottom end. it has some top end internals like valve springs, ras, and camshafts but that's about it.. they are running 25psi boost and they wanna see if they can reach 500hp on a stock bottom end.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

the c-red drift pig sileighty had a reliable 320 ponies at the treads without cracking the motor open.

This was an sr20det


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

either the SR or KA will easily hold 300whp. it's kinda a toss-up at this power. either you get the SR and spend some $ on stuff like a bigger turbo, FMIC, injectors and the like ($2K SR+1.5K instl+1K turbo+1K IC+.5K inj=~$6K) or you can buy a turbo kit for the KA and have to spend some $ on injectors and tuning ($4K turbo w/instl+1K inj & tuning=$5K). if your KA has a lot of miles (like 200K+) or you try boosting above 7psi without the fuel, you'll end up paying for a rebuild too though. the RB25 would be a waste of money because it'll cost at least $6-7K just to get it into your car, and then you've only got 250hp. plus, its considerably heavier than even the KA, so it'll throw off your car's balance a bit.

if you've got a KA in good condition, i suggest the KA. as long as you *don't boost past ~7psi on the stock KA injectors*, it will hold up fine. with more fuel it will easily hold 300whp for quite a bit less than the SR and will have a lot more torque.


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

yup. what bizzy b said


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## C-Kwik (May 1, 2002)

bizzy b said:


> *if you've got a KA in good condition, i suggest the KA. as long as you don't boost past ~7psi on the stock KA injectors, it will hold up fine. with more fuel it will easily hold 300whp for quite a bit less than the SR and will have a lot more torque. *


4-5psi would be pushing the stock KA injectors, unless you run a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I was detonating at about 8-9 psi with an 8:1 RRFPR on stock injectors.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

C-Kwik said:


> *4-5psi would be pushing the stock KA injectors, unless you run a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator. I was detonating at about 8-9 psi with an 8:1 RRFPR on stock injectors. *


yeah, thats what i meant. all the KA turbo kits i've seen include a boost dependent FPR in their first stage though, so i assumed he would have one if he got the turbo, but true, i should have included that.


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

both ka and sr are good upto about 350hp before building internals.


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## nizmo559 (Mar 4, 2003)

I hope you dont have smog in your State to worry about.


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## s13sr20chris (Apr 22, 2003)

go sr. in my opinion the ka will never have the same potential as the sr. ka's are not smooth at all and that will limit durability if you try to rev too high. stock sr20det's have no prob above 7k but you would have to lighten and balance the whole bottom end to reliably rev a ka that high.


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

(i'm planning for a sr20det swap so don't bash me please )
the sr is capable of higher rpm's and making a lot of power at higher rpm's but high rpm's not good for the engine.. some people would prefer making [email protected] with the KA than [email protected] SR..


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## nx2000 (Jan 24, 2003)

My personal opinion on the CHEAPEST (notice emphasis on cheapest not best) way to 300rwhp is RB25 hands down.

6 or 7K to get it in your car......yeah right. RB25 has a few extra quirks to get into an S13 or s14 (like driveshaft, I dont know if that is a problem on s14 as much as s13). You can get a front clip from Venus for 2500 plus 700 max shipping. Sure if you have to pay fro install, the pric ewill go up. Expect to pay 1-1500 for install. Or you can attempt it yourself if you have access to a garage or something and some tools. Out of the three choices (SR, CA, RB, KA-T) it has the highest stock output. 250HP @6400 RPM

now we will take a "generous" 20% drivetrain loss (.20 x 250 =200rwhp) That is right around what a SR20 puts out at the crank. What would you rather start with if your goal was RB25DET. It is also the fastest. The only reason I didn't get an RB25 over the RB20 is because the entry price is more than I choose to handle. I have a busted KA and want to get back on the road as quick and cheap as possible, yet get a decent engine that is proven. RB20 was it. I am getting my clip shipped to for less than SR20 motorsets sell for. I'm sure some hater will argue parts. If you plan ahead, tehre will be no wait. Especailly since people like Night and McKinney motorsports are stocking parts. I am in no way a SR20 hater, I like options. And I'll take a iron block over a aluminum one anyday. And if the RB was in the premiere car, it is good enough fo rmy 240. Now if you have loads and gobs of money to blow...your best bet is KA-T. Not as quick as a swap and upping the boost, but if I blow a hole in my RB20 block, I am assed out. However, KA come a dime a dozen. That is my take. Only thing is by the time you buy a decent kit, you are set back 3G's. That is a swap right there. BUt it is the safest way. You can buy another KA for a few hundred. I, on the other hand would have to spring for a new block or complete engine. But you assume that risk with all the swaps...just my take. All are wise choices and are more than capable of 300rwhp


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

Stock power figures:
SR20DET s13 - 205 Hp
SR20DET n13 gtir - 230 Hp
RB20DET early RWD - 190 Hp
RB20DET late 4WD - 215 Hp
RB25DET R33 - 250 Hp

RB25DET has that crappy ceramic exhaust wheel on the turbo restricting you to about 13psi boost. You wont get to 300 with the stock turbo so in the end it may be cheaper to go SR or RB20 and buy a bigger turbo with the money you save on the install.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

ya know, last time i didn't even think about the RB20 as an option, but its probably the best bet. well, actually i still think the KA-T is better, but i'd rather have the RB20 than the SR20 if for no other reason than the fact that they are $500-1000 cheaper than the SR and really have no drawbacks. hell, it may even be cheaper than the KA-T if your satisfied with 300hp.


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