# Help on recovering 2007 Maxima!



## user2018 (Jun 13, 2018)

Hi all,

My 2007 Maxima suddenly stop running, several observations as below, 
1. No electricity initially,then I used Jump start battery
2. Then Dashboard lights on, 3 lights was not off, including: battery, oil change, Service Engine Soon
3. I turn ignition key, can hear a short sound of starter cranking and can feel engine vibration, then stop and dashboard lights also dim at the same time; once release back the ignition key, the dashboard lights back; if turning again, things just repeat.

Thanks and appreciate your help!!!


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Disconnect both battery terminals and clean them and the posts by mixing two tablespoons of baking soda with an equal amount of water in a clean container. Stir the solution to form a paste, then use a toothbrush to apply the paste to each terminal. The solution will begin to sizzle as it interacts with the corrosion. Use a wire brush to remove the remaining residue.

If the battery is dead, take it to an auto parts store to get it tested and recharged if needed.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

To add to above ^^^: once the battery is tested "good" and charged and the battery connections are confirmed clean and tight, make sure the charging system is checked. Normal charging system voltage should be from 13.2 to 15.5 volts at idle and at 3000 RPM, with loads "on" and also with them "off." If charging voltage is low, make sure the alternator fusible link is not blow. It's possible you may need an alternator if you find that the charging system voltage is out of spec.


----------



## user2018 (Jun 13, 2018)

rogoman, smj999smj，

Thank you so much for your advice. Should have get back earlier due to my user login had some issue and just resolved. I have done the following:
- Battery checked in store, no good. replaced a new one
- negative terminal connector corrosion, replaced a new one together with a new fusible link.
- replaced a new starter.
After all above changes, dashboard lights no changes. the only change is the crank sound can last 3~5 seconds compared to initial just a click. but the sound of crank seems still weird, different from the normal crank sound. have not get a multi meter to have the voltage read. I am thinking to replace spark plugs but seems a big job.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Since you now have replaced the above said items, are you now able to start the engine?


----------



## user2018 (Jun 13, 2018)

unfortunately still can not start the engine. i can hear the sound of engine rolling when i keep turning my ignition key. one possibility i am guessing is spark plugs are not working but all 6 not working at same time seems weird. the other possibility is no gasoline being injected into the chamber....


----------



## James Berkhimer (Oct 3, 2018)

Don't think is the spark plugs a car can and will start and run multie cylinders down just not very well. I've had a bad coil on a 99 vw beetle and drove it 15 miles to an autopart store with 1 cylinder my 2000 nissan maxima had a clogged fuel rail on bank 2 and ran fine on 3 cylinders (1,3,5)


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: 

https://ownersmanuals2.com

The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.

At this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:

* Testing fuel delivery:
An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail and connect a long length of spare hose to it with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.

Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge to the disconnected fuel hose. You may need a special adapter for the connection. The reading at idle should be 51 psi. 
If the engine is unable to start, turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should be around 51 psi which would be a static reading.

The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector. There's a good chance that the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor is bad.

* Testing ignition:
Pull several coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine. 

* The cam timing may be incorrect:
Check for a broken chain guide. See if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak:
To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.


----------



## RehianaSpencer (Mar 25, 2019)

Great information shared. . .


----------

