# 1995 nissan sentra odd transmission issue.



## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Hi all I've been having issues with my 1995 Nissan sentra GLE Automatic Transmission ever since it was flushed about 2-3 years ago. Basically it will shift roughly and sometimes take quite some time to shift into 3rd. It only seems to do this when it's hot outside drives fine in the winter. The mech put full synthetic trans oil in. The flushed oil then looked fine not burnt or anything or lots of shavings. (watched him do it)

I've done a few things to try to fix it:
1. Put in brand new governor Gear
2. Added Transmission cooler
3. Flushed again with correct dextron III mercon recently still has minor issues and the previous fluid looked ok as well. 

The fluid level is fine checked per manual at operating temperature. The car just hit 100,000 miles and I got it at like 70,000 so it seems like the transmission should still be OK in theory at least. I'm just not sure what else it could be short of the transmission itself. My last guess is the shift cable is expanding when hot, but I'm not really sure how I'd need to adjust it. 

Any other ideas out there before I take it to a transmission expert?

Thanks!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Give the engine a complete tune up and make sure it's running properly.
If you're too far into the gas, the trans might think you're under too much load and delay shifting.


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Full tune up already done new plugs, oil & all fluids correct, carb cleaned, filters, and etc. Compression is fine as well.

yes I've noticed delays if you press the gas too hard, but this happens in 1st and 2nd as well. I almost never hit the gas hard tho only when coming out of median or something. The shifting is rough not just delayed when it's hot. (sometimes jerks) 

Thanks!



jdg said:


> Give the engine a complete tune up and make sure it's running properly.
> If you're too far into the gas, the trans might think you're under too much load and delay shifting.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Timing checked/set?
Base idle checked/set?
(plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, PCV valve, idle vacuum checked)

Define "rough"...
Do you mean rough because it's shifting at too high rpm? Or rough like it shifts 1-2-1-1-1-2-2-2-1-1-1-2-2, then finally locks into 2nd or what...


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Shifting at high RPM, and jerking with shifting. Starts shifting where you can feel it. Nothing like my truck which a nice smooth shift. 

timing: yes Idle: yes Plugwires: yes, DC: no DR: no PCV valve: No 

Belts are a bit worn tho, but don't seem critical or anything.



jdg said:


> Timing checked/set?
> Base idle checked/set?
> (plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, PCV valve, idle vacuum checked)
> 
> ...


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## punchodex (Feb 21, 2011)

I can't offer much help as my Nissan is manual.
I have a 2000 Civic LX auto. They always make a big deal about using only Honda ATF. I always have and I've never had any issues with that auto, just hit 212k miles. 
If your new fluid also wasn't the Nissan brand perhaps that will help with the issues. Not sure if Nissan is as particular as Honda supposedly is.


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## punchodex (Feb 21, 2011)

Another two things just came to mind, from other people's experiences.

MIL had some d-bag top off her brake fluid with wrong type or something. It caused swelling of some brake rubber and cooked her trans. Almost cooked the rebuilt one but she called shop to complain about the issue still being there. They figured it out, the brakes were seizing up and overworking/overheating trans.
Lady at work had a plugged cat that was making her think her trans was dying b/c of similar slowness in shifting issues. 

I guess you would feel these kind of issues and your car would obviously be much slower, which it doesn't sound like.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

shackle101 said:


> Hi all I've been having issues with my 1995 Nissan sentra GLE Automatic Transmission ever since it was flushed about 2-3 years ago. Basically it will shift roughly and sometimes take quite some time to shift into 3rd.


How was it flushed? If the flushing included the oil cooler and was done incorrectly, then any dirt that was in the oil cooler may have found it's way into the valve body of the tranny. Normally a flush is not advisable unless you're replacing the tranny or the radiator.


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Very late reply, but the flush was done professionally and I'm using the recommended Nissan Fluid. It's good all winter and when it gets hot I have shifts problems. I was told it could likely be a Sensor. The problem existed before I done anything to the car that's the reason I did the above steps.


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Wanted to revive this thread and see what you guys think about replacing the torque converter. I took it to a transmission shop and they believe that is likely the cause, but won't replace just the converter they want to replace the whole transmission. They mentioned the pressure is getting lower when the car is warmer. I did some research and a failing Torque converter supposedly can cause the exact issues I'm seeing. I believe the transmission is fine only 100k miles on it and no burnt fluid or gear shavings in the fluid. Maybe the converter is malfunctioning when hot? Just wanna check before I work on removing the whole dang transmission to replace it lol. 

Also I replaced the speed sensor recently as well.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The TPS may not be adjusted properly or there may be bad spots on it.


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

How exactly would I go about testing it? Would temperature effect it? Cause keep in mind this only happens on hot days for the most part. 



rogoman said:


> The TPS may not be adjusted properly or there may be bad spots on it.


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## shackle101 (Jul 12, 2012)

Any other Ideas out there? I replaced the TPS and now I'm looking to maybe replacing the computer. I've never had a trouble code in the car and the alternator was bad so I wonder if something is wrong with the computer & it's overheating. I highly doubt it's the transmission I had it checked, and they where not able to figure it out. I've even put some stop slip/hard shifting solution in which doesn't change anything. When a transmissions is worn I've seen those solutions will tend to help at least for a little bit depending on what you get. 

Any ideas would be great! Thanks all!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I don't think it's your problem, but FYI, Dexron III/Mercon is not the correct ATF for a complete service. Nissan specifies Nissan Type "D" ATF, which is actually the original Dexron formula (prior to Dexron II then Dexron III/Mercon). Dexron III/Mercon actually has a thicker viscosity than Dexron/Dexron II and it was discovered by Nissan to potentially cause the valves to stick in the valve body. Dexron III/Mercon is fine to top of the fluid, but should not be used during a "drain-and-fill" service or flush. That said, most of the synthetic ATFs work fine as a replacement for Dexron/Dexron II applications. The flush itself probably wasn't the issue, as this is usually done with a fluid exchanger, which simply "T's" in at the cooler hose and pushes new fluid in from a tank as the old fluid pushes against a bladder within the tank. However, sometime conditioners are installed during a trans flush which "may" have led to your issues.


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