# 1988 KC body work.



## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

For some reason, I decided to pull the front bumper. The driver's side end is bent, guess I was looking to bend it back.

Here is the damage I found. The driver's side is solid, but this side is toast.

Anyone see this before and know how to fix it?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

that used to be your radiator support! and it is, was structural... I would try to replace that asap! (if its a daily driver) might check with aftermarket for a replacement (call a local body shop and ask who they use)


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Not my daily driver. I use it a couple times a week to take dog to the beach, and to tow my 400 pound boat. 

I was thinking about patching it together with steel sheet and some bolts.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Here is a look at the driver's side. All solid. Must have something to do with the radiator overflow tank.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

check the aftermarket for a radiator support, drill out the old welds, square up the front end and weld in the new supt or.... if you use a patch, weld instead of bolts, but square the frt end..


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Ok, but how do I "square" this beast?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

body shops have all the spec's, but I would go from a fixed point back by the hood hinge to the opposite side of the rad supt (criss cross) get the same measurement from both sides and its square..


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Update.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

New tail lamps.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I am ready to order a couple of fenders from Amazon. Any suggestions?


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Anyone have some experience with after market fenders?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if you want more of a bulge in the fender, get 4wd fenders, they mount up the same etc.. The (a/m fenders) fit & finish will not be the same, read all the small print etc Might check with a local body shop to see where they buy their a/m parts, then you can see before you buy...


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Thanks, I am going to visit an auto body place this morning.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Ugg! Body work stuff is impossible to find. The shop I went to this morning, turns out they specialize in paint.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

This bumper was bolted on extremely tight. I had to go to Sears and get another 1/2 inch drive ratchet, and another 18mm socket. The first three bolts took a huge effort, the third one I cut away with a Dremel.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Checking brakes and pulling dents.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Back of front bumper: Wire brushed, treated with Ospho and painted with primer.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Hood: Knocked out dents, ground away some rust, and added a little Bondo.The image shows small dents along the front, but those are shadows.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Nice, your dent work looks pretty good. Are you just using a slide hammer?


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I bought a slide hammer, and been playing with it. Also pickup up a dolly and have been using that. Not sure what I am doing, just plugging along and having some fun.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

That's the way to do it. That's how you learn!

Did the same thing, but also had a buddy with a stud welder. That thing was pretty cool.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

stud welder is the way to go


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Definitely pretty effective and easy to use. Unfortunately I can't really justify buying my own for the occasional auto body project.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

I wonder if Harbor Freight carrys them..


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

They do have them. Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit

They're not terribly expensive, but enough that someone like me who only does small, personal dent repair every once and a while couldn't justify buying it. :loser:

Or, maybe I should for the investment...


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Spent the day grinding, then spreading Bondo. (passenger side)



















What should I do with this mess?


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Wow...can you weld? Ideally you'd want to cut the rust off, custom cut another wheel well type piece, and weld it on...


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I've never welded a thing. But, I have been checking it out on Youtube. I think I'll have to dream something up, and save the perfect repair for later.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if you could find a bedside in a wrecking yard, that would be ideal


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

The driver's side is in good shape, so I am using it as a template to make plywood frames. I'll move these to the other side, attach them to the bed rails, and apply a new skin (thinner plywood.)

My Hardbody is becoming a Hardwoodbody.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Ol' woody! Love it! What will you coat the wood with?


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Coating with epoxy. Here are the frames, 2 in front of the wheel, and 4 in back.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

SPEEDO said:


> if you could find a bedside in a wrecking yard, that would be ideal


The whole bed needs to be replaced. I've been on the look-out.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Just ordered a patch panel from JCWhitney. This is an image of the drivers side, but I did order the passenger side panel.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

This is the top section of weather strip on the windshield. 

Is this easy to remove and replace?

I want to get under there to treat rust.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if I remember right, it lays under the glass, might ask a glass guy just to be sure..


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

SPEEDO said:


> if I remember right, it lays under the glass, might ask a glass guy just to be sure..


I don't think it does. At least not on my 94 ...mine is coming off by itself. It's just a push in type of molding as far as I can tell, but I'm not a glass guy exactly either.

-R


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if not, use a razor knife and cut it out, then silicone it back in... a thought anyway


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Good idea; probably will go that route.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

This side is looking better.


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Lookin good. How do you find the time to do all this work? I feel like my projects always get so drawn out because I'm so busy...


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

wow! your truck has the pop up tie downs! I havent seen those in years!


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

wilburk said:


> Lookin good. How do you find the time to do all this work? I feel like my projects always get so drawn out because I'm so busy...


It does take to much time. Every time I spend a couple hours doing the body work, I come into the house ready to write a check for a new one.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

SPEEDO said:


> wow! your truck has the pop up tie downs! I havent seen those in years!


I didn't know they were there until the other day when I pulled the topper (then pulled the bed-liner.)









Here are a couple pictures from this morning.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Wow, that's coming along nicely! Keep is in the loop.

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Before.









After (rivets look shabby but I can always take it apart and do it over.)


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Way to be a problem solver--I never would have thought of riveting...


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Well, I can't get involved with a welder right now, and looking at this truck in the garage is driving me nuts. I am considering adhesive. 

Drill out the rivets, spread the panel adhesive then reinstall rivets until the glue sets. Remove rivets then fill the holes with Bondo and paint


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Anyone good with welders? They have Lincoln machines at Lowes for about 400 bucks.

Wondering if I can use a stick welder to do this panel repair.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

veesix said:


> Anyone good with welders? They have Lincoln machines at Lowes for about 400 bucks.
> 
> Wondering if I can use a stick welder to do this panel repair.


It's awfully thin metal to stick weld. I would think just a light weight MIG or even a Flux Wire Welder would work best. You're just going to spot weld it in anyway, right? Then again, I guess to do it right you spot weld first and then fill in between the runs with a solid bead once all is stable. Like this guy did... I like his technique. The video is over 10 minutes, and he doesn't really get into the butt welding segment until about 7 minutes in. Pretty nice work! 




I'm guessing this is one you have looked at... a Lincoln MIG/Flux Core wire feed welder. Yeah, it would come in handy, especially at less than $400. http://www.lowes.com/pd_366784-1703..._product_avg_rating|1&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID 

And, this is not bad... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332691_200332691

Me, if I wasn't planing to use the welder every day, but just for occasional home projects, I'd probably go the cheapest route, like one of these... http://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...flux-wire-welder-22-volts-110-amps-68885.html ...or, this ... http://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...wire-feed-welder-24-volts-140-amps-68886.html

...but that's just me ...I'm cheap!

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I went to Lowes and picked up some new tools. Not cheap, but hopefully it will be a good time. So, after some practice, I'll drill out those rivets and weld the patch panels.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

veesix said:


> I went to Lowes and picked up some new tools. Not cheap, but hopefully it will be a good time. So, after some practice, I'll drill out those rivets and weld the patch panels.
> 
> http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m512/TampaBay2/welder2_zps211158e9.jpg


Wow, I don't think you could go wrong there. Looks like very nice equipment. With welding, practice makes perfect. You just have to follow good examples and try to replicate. Fortunately, with the net it's not so hard to see those examples as it was way back when I was learning. I had some good welding instructors, but I never became an artist at it.

-R


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

No kidding, that's awesome! No better way to learn than that. Wish I had the space for that gear (and the money). 

veesix too bad you don't live close so I could borrow your stuff.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Check out the ground effects kit on this truck. Anyone know where this lit comes from?

Salvage 1989 Nissan D21 US SHO Truck for Sale


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the first thing that popped into my head was Lund


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

I was thinking JC Whitney ...but I digress! I searched around a little and it looks like body kits are getting hard to find for our D21's. Probably because they haven't been in production for so long. I got nothing.
-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

The rivets are out and, with a grinder, I cut away the old steel. Here is a look at the first fit.










Three panels will come together here. Not sure how that will look, but this is a test bed (hey, I just made a pun!)


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Getting all that stuff to line up perfectly probably isn't as easy as it looks. I've never done it, but I've seen it done, and it's an art. Skills I don't have. I'll stick to turning wrenches. Keep us posted on your progress!

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I have 2 patches in, and one to go.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Passenger side tail lamp. The welds are not great (or even good) but they are better than when I started.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Wow! That looks like a ton of work. Fun, huh?

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Getting closer to the finish line.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

That's looking so good. It's like seeing a work of art come together right before our eyes.

Now, you are about to enter the stage where you can't rush things. Attention to detail, and prep before paint can make or break it. I never had patience for it myself. keep up the good work!

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I tested some paint on the driver's side bed (upper section.) The paint is Rustoleum ultra flat Camouflage (light greenish tan.) It lays down perfectly even; no runs and even coverage. I think I'll paint it myself and cancel the trip I planned to Maaco; I can use the savings for new tools.

The color in this image is not accurate. It must be the overhead fluorescent lamp. There's no yellow in it, just light greenish tan.










Getting the glass taped off, original paint scuffed, fared, and primed.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Holy cow! I think you have done this before! It's looking good!

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Here is another look at the tan color (right) I tested. At first I thought it looked OK, then I started to "un-like" it.









Decided to go in this direction.









Gravity feed spray gun.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

The tan sort of looks like primer from here. I'm with you on this move. That blue automotive lacquer should look really sharp, and I think you can still buff on it if you need to later. We are anxiously waiting. Good job on the pictures, too!

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

The tan is an "ultra flat." It looks exactly like primer. I wonder how it looks under a clear coat.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Probably like it's wet!  Are you thinking of not turning blue?

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I still have the blue on line. I wish I could be sure that my Rustoleum "stops rust" sandable primer is compatible under this Duplicolor lacquer.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

veesix said:


> I still have the blue on line. I wish I could be sure that my Rustoleum "stops rust" sandable primer is compatible under this Duplicolor lacquer.


Yeah, that's a good question. I guess trying a test piece of sheet metal would be a good idea next. 

Check this out, also. http://www.duplicolor.com/faq/

I couldn't find much info on the Rustoleum. This... http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS_SPECIALTY_Camouflage Sprays_5010790.pdf

More often than not when I look up "Acrylic Modified Alkyd" from other sources it mentions "enamel", but a lot of other components were mentioned. 

I'm guessing you will still need to test it out. 

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Doing some rocker patching this morning (maybe it's really a cab corner.) It is amazing how fast this kind of thing goes with a little practice. 

Will jump in there with a wire wheel next, and see what I have to weld to.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

More rust than met the eye. Had to make one big patch.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

I think it would have been possible to sand and fill, over and over, for another week. However, this project has a deadline and tonight is paint night.

I went to the paint shop this morning and they say, either sand all the Rust-oleum primer off and start again, or paint with Rust-Oleum (not what I was expecting to hear.) I drove straight to Wal-Mart and picked up a quart of "Gloss Smoke Grey" enamel for less than 9 bucks.

Diluted this first coat 3 to 1. What do I know? very little because this is a first for me.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

And, the dirty deed is done. 









Painting was not easy, it's a steep learning curve.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

I'm blown away! You've got some krazy madd skilz. It looks great, and just imagine what you could do with no time frame and more practice. People would be beating your door down to get you to do body work for them. 

I'm inspired and motivated to work on my old daily driver that's in bad need of repairs. It's just an old Honda Civic (93), so it's not like I'd be hurting anything to practice on.

One thing that's kept me from painting is that my upright pro Craftsman air compressor blows a LOT of compressor oil into the tank. Oil and any moisture will absolutely kill new paint. I'm thinking good filters are going to cost a pretty penny, so I haven't jumped into that yet.

Good job on your truck!

-R


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

you need a inline water filter to prevent that...


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Thank you for the kind words. It has been a long haul. I went for the first drive today and it felt great.


















Here is a look at my air machine. I knew it was not big enough for best results, but I had already spent about 1400 bucks on tools and supplies (new welder and lots of other stuff,) and so the tool budget was blown.

This machine did the job, but it requires plenty of stopping and waiting, while the pressure builds up. I don't think that filters are very expensive, and I'll get some next time. Dryers (needed) might be where the bigger money is.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

you should be proud! it looks alot better!


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Here is the next area of interest. I know this looks very bad, but I'm sure it's repairable.

Looking forward, from the trailer hitch bolts to the spare tire support (drivers side.)

Disregarding the separated layer of undercoating, it looks like an extra steel "strap" is use on the frame. Anyone know why I'm looking at 3 distinct pieces along the bottom part of this frame C section?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Given how far you've come and what a great job you have done there's no turning back now. Yours ain't so bad.

I saw a HB on the road yesterday that even at a distance didn't look right. As it got closer I could see that the frame was so badly damaged/rusted ...well, it had split vertically from the bottom to the top in the area behind the cab where it just starts to make a turn over the axle on one side. The only thing keeping it all together was the fact that the bed and cab were leaning on each other.

I watched as it went across some railroad tracks and held my breath wondering if it was going to break in two. How they got that one through Virginia inspection was beyond me.

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Hahaha.... It's not about to split in two parts. All this steel will clean right up with a wire brush. But look at the image; the leaf spring bracket is welded to a something, then an end of the spare tire support, then two aditional layers of steel.

What is going on here?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

veesix said:


> Hahaha.... It's not about to split in two parts. All this steel will clean right up with a wire brush. But look at the image; the leaf spring bracket is welded to a something, then an end of the spare tire support, then two aditional layers of steel.
> 
> What is going on here?
> http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m512/TampaBay2/bodywork49_zpsdd806fcb.jpg


Yeah, I don't know. I'll have to crawl under mine with a camera and see how it's put together. I'll do that as soon as I can.

By the way... good job with the photos. What are you shooting them with?

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

A Canon G12. You got spiders under your truck? There must be a couple hundred spiders living in this truck. I was covered in webs after getting that shot.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Oh, yeah, we do have spiders here, but they aren't too active yet. I haven't ever found much use for them, unless it's to wake me up. They WILL get your attention... especially the Black Widows and Brown Recluses. I try to keep my truck moving enough each week so not to have them nest in it, but they are sneaky.

G12 is a nice camera. I have a PowerShot S5IS, and an EOS 60D.

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Somehow, the fresh paint activated them. When the enamel was 2 days old, I had tiny spiders all over the front pass. fender.

This is whats happening in the engine compartment.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

veesix said:


> Hahaha.... It's not about to split in two parts. All this steel will clean right up with a wire brush. But look at the image; the leaf spring bracket is welded to a something, then an end of the spare tire support, then two aditional layers of steel.
> 
> What is going on here?


I took a torch under the truck to try and loosen those bolts. The center layer was solid rust.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

The tailgate needs some work. I bought two sheets of 20g steel; cut to size for patching the lower tailgate, and the bed sill.


The outside of the lower tailgate (gate closed.) 


The sill damage (gate open.)


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Wow... rust is relentless down there in FL.
Living in Daytona for a year and driving my 73 VW on the beach every day is no doubt what eventually rusted the floor out of it. 

-R


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

This truck has been all over. It was bought new in Louisiana by a friend of my father's. There, the sun baked it to a crisp. I think it was hot enough that it toasted the undercoating. 

Then he moved to N. Carolina were my Father bought it. Then to NY, MA, and then to Florida. Here, I used it for a few years to shuttle liquid chlorine from the pool store to my yard. That was the icing on the rust cake.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Thanks to the guys at Dang Welding & Machine Shop in Sarasota. The truck went on the lift, and they removed the bolts to the hitch, the rear bumper, and the hitch supports.

This part of the frame needs the wire wheel, the grinder, some paint, and new bolts.


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

Here it is. Plenty of grinding, a coat of red primer, and then the grey. This should look good for a few more years.


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