# Car Won't Start! No spark at all from the coil.



## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

Problem:

1. Won't Start, but it's cranking.
2. I Pulled out the #1 plug, and there was no spark.
3. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the CAP, and no spark either.
4. I Changed the Ignition coil and tested it again, but it was the same problem, No spark.
5. I've spare ECU, pulled out the old one, and plugged in the new one but got the same issue. Didn't start or even no spark either.
6. Based on the Haynes manual, I've tried performing the diagnostic, but there was no indication of light in the LEDs. No response when the ignition was turned on.
7. I checked for busted fuses but couldn't find anything related to ignition.
8. I Pulled out the distributor assembly and tried replacing it with my spare, but I didn't make any improvements. Still no spark!!!

I would appreciate it if you could provide me with some of your expertise on this z-car issue.

Thanks and looking forward to any of your HELP...

Regards,
JR


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Check the ECU fuse.


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## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

♣Zen31ZR♣ said:


> Check the ECU fuse.


Where's the ECU fuse? I didn't find it in the Fuse panel. Is it in the ECU itself?


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

JR88ZEDXT said:


> Where's the ECU fuse? I didn't find it in the Fuse panel. Is it in the ECU itself?


Should be there behind the driver side kick panel. 10 amp fuse located towards the top of the back column (closest to the firewall).


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## rustyholtzen (Apr 9, 2005)

I had the same problem. the ing module (the transator) that is right beside the coil. If it goes bad you dont have spark at all. Had to replace paid bill and half for one from niss house. Maybe that will help you a little.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

The thing that tips me off here is he says the ECU blinky lights don't light up when put in diag mode. I'm thinking it's the ecu fuse for just that reason.


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

Hey, I have the same exact problem!!! My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now. We can't figure it out!! Did you find a solution to your problem?? Can you tell me please!!! would really appreciate it! Need my car back badly!! But don't want to bring it into a shop who will charge an arm and a leg, plus towing.

Thanks


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Not sure of the question here. Have you tried everything that was suggested already in this thread? You need to tell me exactly what is going on. Does the car crank over? Can you hear the fuel pump? Have you tried an ECU diagnostic? Have you eyeballed the timing belt, to make sure it is not broken? It's not enough to simply look at it, you must verify that it moves when the engine is turned over. There are many problems that can cause a no-start no-run condition. We need to narrow it down.


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

OK, here is what I've done so far, pretty much all that this thread has done.


-Checked timing belt (just recently changed all belts and timed 2 months ago)
-Checked plugs (new plugs about 6 months ago)
-checked wires (racing wires changed 1 yr ago)
-checked fuel pump (changed 2 yrs ago, but still pumping)
-checked distributor cap (about to replace whole distributor but not if this thread tried that already and didn't help)
-checked/replaced ignition coil with another stock one


Turns over, doesn't fire. Everything sounds healthy while turning over???

Don't know what it could be?? unless it is the ECU fuse or whatever this thread was suggesting. I just want to know if it worked for this person? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

Miss my car ;(


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

rustyholtzen said:


> I had the same problem. the ing module (the transator) that is right beside the coil. If it goes bad you dont have spark at all. Had to replace paid bill and half for one from niss house. Maybe that will help you a little.



do you mean the Power Transistor? I looked it up on the FSM... I will try that tomorrow. Let me know.

Could it be the EFI relay? Just a guess.


Thanks


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, there were no 1986 nissan 300zx turbos, but I pulled one off a 1988 but they have different part numbers. Would this make a difference? I don't want to try it untill I find out. Im calling my tech guy here, and waiting for his call as well. The part numbers are as follows:


1986: 22020-12p11
1988: 22020-28p10

Dont want to fry my engine....

Any help would be great!


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

nambino said:


> Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, there were no 1986 nissan 300zx turbos, but I pulled one off a 1988 but they have different part numbers. Would this make a difference? I don't want to try it untill I find out. Im calling my tech guy here, and waiting for his call as well. The part numbers are as follows:
> 
> 
> 1986: 22020-12p11
> ...


If it plugs in, it will work.


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## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

*FUSIBLE LINKS*



nambino said:


> Hey, I have the same exact problem!!! My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now. We can't figure it out!! Did you find a solution to your problem?? Can you tell me please!!! would really appreciate it! Need my car back badly!! But don't want to bring it into a shop who will charge an arm and a leg, plus towing.
> 
> Thanks


After many months that I've seeking for help and suggestion from people but unfortunately, I didn't get much feedback for them so I figure that I just troubleshoot on my own.

I got it start that there's still a problem at this time and it's so difficult to trace the problem. Before you start pulling and changing out parts, first you want to check are the "FUSIBLE LINK". These are located close to the battery area. Use a test light to see if all your links are okay. I found one in mine that there was no contact what so ever. I pulled it out and replaced it then the "ENGINE STARTER" to fire up. So with the time I invested checking all the things I've mentioned before was not even the culprit. Right now, I still have a problem because the car would start but the that fusible link that I found to be the problem is melting then engine will stop. I hope your problem is just the "FUSIBLE LINK" and no short circuit whatsoever.

Goodluck and let me know....

[email protected]


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

A fusible link melting is an unusual circumstance, and generally means there are other problems, probably in the starter wiring, or major work was done to the car with the battery connected.


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

I appreciate all the help on this forum, it's hard to imagine life without these forums. I guess we would all still be bringing our cars into shops who charge an arm and a leg, and they don't really tell you what was wrong with it. I think my brother (mechanic) already checked all Fusible Links, and he didn't mention if they were out, so hopefully I will try this other Power Transistor and see if it works. I'll let you guys know, JR thanks for all your input, I hope it's not the Fusible link so that I can fix the car by this weekend, otherwise I will have to check the links again and try to find replacements.

Cross my fingers!!


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## nambino (Nov 5, 2004)

Well, the new Power Transistor didn't help. Still the same problem. We checked the Fusible link as well, and there is power. So the only thing we haven't "Changed" is the Distributor. So looks like I will have to go and try to change that up. 

JR if you are reading this, how much did you get ur distributor for? and where? I talked to Nissan themselves, and they say there are no "new" ones in North America. I would have to special order parts from Japan.

This would cost an arm and a leg. I tried looking for used ones, but selection is limited here in Canada.

Let me know, im trying to get my car running, before winter at least.


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## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

*Distributor Assembly*

Well! I got mine from one of the guys in the ZCLUB 6months ago and paid $250 CAD. I checked the delear and I was told that it's $650 plus taxes which was way too much on my budget. I decided to buy this used one because my car has been sitting for almost a year next month. Check my first posting about this problem, I've been working on it months and I finally got it started yesterday. Just to let you know, I'm not a mechanic and not formal experience on cars. I just know some basic stuff but it took me many almost a year to figure it out. In my orignal posting, I've tried everything including swapping the distributor assembly but it didn't help at all so I kept my orginal distributor assembly. I aslo bought a used power transistor and ECU before just to test if this were the culprits but didn't do any good.

Now, I'm putting it back all together since it started yesterday and just to do major tune up since it was sitting for almost a year.

By the way, the problem I had why it one of the fusible link was melting; there was a short circuit in the connetor of the orange relay (Safety relay). I openned up all the wiring harnesses all the way to the ECU to the injectors and the starter but I finally found that the RED wire from this connecter was pinched by a metal clamp bolted on the engine. It was a pain and time consume process to diagnosed this problem..

Where are you from in Canada? I live in Scarborough...Feel free to email me if there's anything you think I can help...

[email protected]
(416)448-2220 Work 

Goodluck!!!










nambino said:


> Well, the new Power Transistor didn't help. Still the same problem. We checked the Fusible link as well, and there is power. So the only thing we haven't "Changed" is the Distributor. So looks like I will have to go and try to change that up.
> 
> JR if you are reading this, how much did you get ur distributor for? and where? I talked to Nissan themselves, and they say there are no "new" ones in North America. I would have to special order parts from Japan.
> 
> ...


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## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

Zen31ZR said:


> A fusible link melting is an unusual circumstance, and generally means there are other problems, probably in the starter wiring, or major work was done to the car with the battery connected.




Fusible that's melting means that there's a short circuit somewhere and definitely not in the starter..There was no major work done to the car, it just stopped running.


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## JR88ZEDXT (Apr 19, 2005)

Nambino,

How are things with your "Z"? Have you figure out the problem? Have you check the "MAIN RELAY"? I was told by one by my mechanic friend that work at Nissan that when this part goes out; you won't be able to start the car or even get a spark at all.

Try to check the "FSM", should be mounted on the right fender area by the battery..

Goodluck.







JR88ZEDXT said:


> Well! I got mine from one of the guys in the ZCLUB 6months ago and paid $250 CAD. I checked the delear and I was told that it's $650 plus taxes which was way too much on my budget. I decided to buy this used one because my car has been sitting for almost a year next month. Check my first posting about this problem, I've been working on it months and I finally got it started yesterday. Just to let you know, I'm not a mechanic and not formal experience on cars. I just know some basic stuff but it took me many almost a year to figure it out. In my orignal posting, I've tried everything including swapping the distributor assembly but it didn't help at all so I kept my orginal distributor assembly. I aslo bought a used power transistor and ECU before just to test if this were the culprits but didn't do any good.
> 
> Now, I'm putting it back all together since it started yesterday and just to do major tune up since it was sitting for almost a year.
> 
> ...


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## flipmibiche (Oct 4, 2007)

JR88ZEDXT said:


> After many months that I've seeking for help and suggestion from people but unfortunately, I didn't get much feedback for them so I figure that I just troubleshoot on my own.
> 
> I got it start that there's still a problem at this time and it's so difficult to trace the problem. Before you start pulling and changing out parts, first you want to check are the "FUSIBLE LINK". These are located close to the battery area. Use a test light to see if all your links are okay. I found one in mine that there was no contact what so ever. I pulled it out and replaced it then the "ENGINE STARTER" to fire up. So with the time I invested checking all the things I've mentioned before was not even the culprit. Right now, I still have a problem because the car would start but the that fusible link that I found to be the problem is melting then engine will stop. I hope your problem is just the "FUSIBLE LINK" and no short circuit whatsoever.
> 
> ...



hey man i have a very good suggestion for you as I am going through the same problem at this time. Go to the local parts store and buy a 20 amp circuit breaker... It will run for the time being and save you from going though multiple fusible links until you figure out the wiring problem. if you put the battery cable on and it jolts and lets out a poof of smoke your wiring is still bad.
p.s If the car stops its because the circuit breaker got to hot, but when it cools it should restart.... it is a great way to mess with it or get it to a wiring professional


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

You know that thread was from 2 years ago..........


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## mwolvin (May 21, 2004)

Zen31ZR said:


> You know that thread was from 2 years ago..........



And here I was about to suggest checking the ignition switch. . . ..


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

Although it's from 2 years ago other people can use this thread as a resource in curing similar problem.


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Sure, but replying in it would be a bit silly...........


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## mwolvin (May 21, 2004)

Spongerider said:


> Although it's from 2 years ago other people can use this thread as a resource in curing similar problem.



I don't recall seeing a resolution .. . .


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

mwolvin said:


> I don't recall seeing a resolution .. . .


JR88ZEDXT did post a follow up thrread.

_"By the way, the problem I had why it one of the fusible link was melting; there was a short circuit in the connetor of the orange relay (Safety relay). I openned up all the wiring harnesses all the way to the ECU to the injectors and the starter but I finally found that the RED wire from this connecter was pinched by a metal clamp bolted on the engine. It was a pain and time consume process to diagnosed this problem.."_




As for Zen it's a opinion like mine. Zen, you can PM for a more detail discussion if you like?


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Spongerider said:


> As for Zen it's a opinion like mine. Zen, you can PM for a more detail discussion if you like?


No worries, I wasn't making an issue. Just noting that replying in threads this old is a bit of a waste of the posters time.... I'm guessing they didn't see the original date of the thread.


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## manuelrys60 (Nov 29, 2008)

have you checked your cranck angle sensor? i had the same problem changed my distributor and solved the problem............


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## Zerocell5688 (Nov 6, 2007)

"I openned up all the wiring harnesses all the way to the ECU to the injectors and the starter but I finally found that the RED wire from this connecter was pinched by a metal clamp bolted on the engine. It was a pain and time consume process to diagnosed this problem.."

Dude where was this red wire located at? where was the clamp this guy was talkin about i've been having the same issue for over a year and i've been debating buying an ECU but this could very well be it any help would be appreciated thank you
~J


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## turboosman (Sep 20, 2009)

*Z won't start*

We are having the same problem on '87 Z turbo. swapped it from one car to another (it was running then, old car had body issues). Well got everything back together and put the juice to her. Cranks over fine but no spark from coil. Have 12v going to coil, transistor. ECU has power.

Changed out:
Distributor, coil, transistor and ECU. Still no spark. Per big Nissan maintenance manual tested coil and transistor and all is within limits. It seems if you are getting 12v to coil and transistor you should get a spark. Waiting to get a logic probe to see if ECU is pulsing on #5 wire from ECU to coil.

Diagnostic mode was not helpful.

Any further updates on this subject in the past few months.

Thanks.


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## timmay13 (Nov 9, 2009)

*no spark on my nissan*

I have had the same problem did you ever figure out what it was? someone help me pls:wtf:


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## JonJam88 (Sep 14, 2009)

Dont know.... but this happened to me!! Stopped in Maurices BBQ in Coliumbia last night on my home from Savannah. Went in and enjoyed some real fine southern BBQ. Went out and hoped in my Z. No cranky crank!! Well Oh Sh*t!! No tools. No flashlight. S.O.L!!
Walked over to Autozone and looked through the manual. No help!! Walked back over to my Z. Wah-Lah!! S.O.B. cranked right up!!
Best I can figure..... The security system!*%#!!


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## Chuwie (Nov 23, 2009)

My "Z" is going through the same issue.. Not starting.. I left it last Friday at the mechanic and will post up the issue, since this thread has no posted solution/reason for this. Hope it will/could help someone else out.. I am currently getting her a new timing belt, new water pump, tune-up and a new battery.. Will wait and see.. and will post soon as I can.. Laterz...


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## Chuwie (Nov 23, 2009)

Well.. Got a call from the mechanic and he stated that there is an issue with the fuel injectors ... 1 and 3.. I thought there was a safety campaign.. However, the deal AND corp. told me that it doesn't apply to my VIN #.. I could have sworn that the 175 pgs of document concerning the Campaign said.. VIN # that this applied to was ALL.. Can someone verify or give me some info/advice?


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## 1985nissan300zx (Sep 29, 2011)

so my 85 300zx is having the same problem the coil gets power but no spark does anybody know the exact location of the fusable coil? because id like to check it before i go and buy the new ignition control module. thankyou


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## JONATHANRI (May 26, 2012)

I will bet the problem is in the Ignition switch. It is a VERY common proble with Nissans. Cranks but no start. Replace the Electrical part of the switch. (NOT the Key Switch). I have done this MANY times and worked fine. Just adding my 2 cents as a 30 year mechanic


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## goyal99 (May 27, 2012)

JONATHANRI said:


> I will bet the problem is in the Ignition switch. It is a VERY common proble with Nissans. Cranks but no start. Replace the Electrical part of the switch. (NOT the Key Switch). I have done this MANY times and worked fine. Just adding my 2 cents as a 30 year mechanic


WHERE IS the location of this "*ignition switch*" you're talking about?? 

You say you've replaced it many times and it's a known source of problems so can you PLEASE tell us where it is so we can check and replace?

Thank you!


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## JONATHANRI (May 26, 2012)

*Nissan Ignition Switch Problem/ Crank no start*

The switch is located on the opposite side of the key, under the plastic housing covering the steering column. Remove the 4 screws holding the plastic steering column cover and you will expose the switch. It is circular with many wires soldered on. There are 2 Philips screws holding it to the switch housing. Remove the 2 screws and follow the wires under the dash to a plug. remove the assembly and, a replacement can be found at most Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts for under $30.00.

Let me know how you ake out

Jonathan
CErtified Mechanic 30+ years


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## JONATHANRI (May 26, 2012)

Apologize for the typos


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## JONATHANRI (May 26, 2012)

Also, if Pep Boys, or other Auto Parts store are unavailable. I would avoid getting from Salvage yard since this is so common to these vehicles the chances of getting a good switch is poor.

You can disassemble the switch, if you have the tools and skills and, clean the burnt contacts and ake sure all connections are working using a multimeter. The part which goes bad is the connections that supply the ignition Igniter with 12v then switches to 5V when car is running

Another test you can do is to supply 12V directly to the ignition Igniter,, which is located next to the coil to test only. 

Just wanted to add this tid bit of help and hope it helps someone


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## imack069 (Mar 19, 2014)

nambino said:


> OK, here is what I've done so far, pretty much all that this thread has done.
> 
> 
> -Checked timing belt (just recently changed all belts and timed 2 months ago)
> ...


i have the same problem check out the power transistor it plug in to the coil


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## imack069 (Mar 19, 2014)

nambino said:


> Hey, I have the same exact problem!!! My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now. We can't figure it out!! Did you find a solution to your problem?? Can you tell me please!!! would really appreciate it! Need my car back badly!! But don't want to bring it into a shop who will charge an arm and a leg, plus towing.
> 
> Thanks


i also have that problem check out ing module (the transator) that is right beside the coil. If it goes bad no spark


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## imack069 (Mar 19, 2014)

*i have the same problem*



JR88ZEDXT said:


> Problem:
> 
> 1. Won't Start but it's cranking.
> 2. Pulled out #1 plug and there was no spark.
> ...


Its could be your transitor module that plug in to the ing. coil i just order one for my 86 300zx turbo


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## imack069 (Mar 19, 2014)

Its could be your transitor module that plug in to the ing. coil i just order one for my 86 300zx turbo 
..imack069 is online now Report Post autozone has them for $140.00 but i have someone with uses parts email me @ [email protected] for website


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## imack069 (Mar 19, 2014)

Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, still have the same problem so i checked voltage it went down to 6 volt from 11.6 i will check the neutral next,


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## Brewen (May 3, 2014)

*Ignition Pickup coil*



imack069 said:


> Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, still have the same problem so i checked voltage it went down to 6 volt from 11.6 i will check the neutral next,


Change your Ignition pickup coil of you don't have a spark and your coil is not bad. It is inside your distributor. It is a round black thing with a thin silvery disk in it that rotates. You have to remove a thin steel plate after you take off the rotor. Once you remove that thin plate you will see it. There will also be a brass piece with a screw in the center you need to remove.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Check out the 'Theft Warning System'. It may be armed.


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## harry1shop (Nov 27, 2014)

*intermittant no spark*

87 300zx with no spark or fuel at times. when it starts, it doesn't miss run rough or smoke. runs perfect until i shut it off and let it cool down. then no spark


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## bmxflow (Mar 4, 2015)

iv got the same damn problem man i have checked and replaced everything that deals with ignition and still nothing, it doesnt make sense at all and im getting even more pissed off each day, i would suggest you dont buy any pointless parts like i did, some of the coils in parts were bad and i have replaced all of it. once you figure out your problem i would really appreciate it if you would send me a message telling me what it is! im hauling it off to the shop tomorrow possibly so if they can figure something out ill post it here in the comments for ya because i know the fuckin struggle!! ITS BULLSHIT!!!!!


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## Grandpaw (Mar 14, 2015)

Have you found out the problem ?
I have same issues, no spark


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## Grandpaw (Mar 14, 2015)

1987 nissan 300zx turbo excellent running car when garaged 8 years ago now I have no spark at the plugs. Have tried everything in this forum except the ignition switch. Anybody have any ideas


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## bmxflow (Mar 4, 2015)

hey i had mine taken to the shop and they said it was the terminals to my wiring harness, he also said he just cleaned them up plugged it back in and after that i got spark and it finally started right up! so check that out maybe. hope this helped


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## poptart3191 (Nov 9, 2010)

put a 12+ straight to the igniter positive terminal then see if you have spark at the distributor. if you do then, its likely your not getting power to the igniter. in my case it was the ignition switch was failing and only making contact to feed the igniter sometimes replaced it with toggle switches and all is well..


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## Shendjedi (Jul 31, 2020)

JR88ZEDXT said:


> Problem:
> 
> 1. Won't Start but it's cranking.
> 2. Pulled out #1 plug and there was no spark.
> ...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The problem could be a bad crank angle sensor that's located inside the distributor; also check the harness connector for it; examine the pins for any oxidation.

Have you performed an ECU code readout? If you're getting a code 11, that points to a problem with the sensor.

Here a procedure to do a code readout:


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