# stumbles & missfires on acceleration



## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Help, I have a 96 nissan 200sx with 270,000 miles, the 1.6 engine, man trans. Been running great until recently. It has become a little harder to start lately and once the engine has warmed a little it begins to stumble and missfire upon acceleration (hard or moderate acceleration), and seems to get worse the longer you drive it, almost to the point it becomes undrivable. If you can maintain a constant speed with no movement in the accelerator it seems to do OK. It will idle fine as well. If you start it when it is cold it will run fine, idle fine, and accelerate fine until the engine gets a little heat in it.
No modifications have been done to car. I have changed plugs, wires, cap & rotor, but it made no difference. Fuel filter was changed about a year ago.
The check engine light has been going off and on for a long time now throwing a P0130 code every time (o2 sensor circuit malfunction, bank1 sensor 1). This is the only code the scanner is reading. I have not replaced the O2 sensor yet. Would this likely be the sole problem or would i have other issues as well?
Any help would be most appreciated


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## EvilPotato (Sep 6, 2005)

change the os sensor if it gave you that error code. to me it sounds more like a bad crankshaft position sensor. i've had the exact same thing happen to my corolla, crank sensor sends weird signal or sends no signal when it gets hot so the ignition module would randomly not generate spark to random cylinders.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Did yours random misfire at a constant speed or upon acceleration only?


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## EvilPotato (Sep 6, 2005)

constant speed, got worse while accelerating.


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

EvilPotato said:


> change the os sensor if it gave you that error code. to me it sounds more like a bad crankshaft position sensor. i've had the exact same thing happen to my corolla, crank sensor sends weird signal or sends no signal when it gets hot so the ignition module would randomly not generate spark to random cylinders.


Im not sure if the sentra has a knock sensor or not, but if it does, it'll throw misfire codes as well. I doubt that an O2 sensor would cause a misfire.

Try filling up on 93 octane next time to see if that helps. Im just curious, if its timing, then this wont help at all.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I do use 93 octane. 
Also, it does not misfire at constant speed. Only acceleration.


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

Well, doesnt really sound like EGR. Once your tank gets really low, put about a gallon of 87 in there and see if it gets worse. If so, it has to do with ignition. 

Where did you get your plug wires and what kind are they?


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Wires came from autozone. Paid $39.95 I think.


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

96sx said:


> Wires came from autozone. Paid $39.95 I think.


Might be your problem. What brand?


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## Local 58 (May 22, 2006)

I'm leaning towards the distributor on this one. Have autozone test it. Also agree with Evilpotato on the possibility of the crank position sensor. I noticed that you said the car is ok at idle or at a constant speed. Does anyone know if a faulty Throttle Position Sensor will throw a code?


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

Local 58 said:


> I'm leaning towards the distributor on this one. Have autozone test it. Also agree with Evilpotato on the possibility of the crank position sensor. I noticed that you said the car is ok at idle or at a constant speed. Does anyone know if a faulty Throttle Position Sensor will throw a code?


To test for CPS or Dis or wires grab a timing light and see if it's firing consistantly. To check for TPS, you're gonna need a multimeter and do a resistance test. 

It could be like 1 of 50 things.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I will try this weekend to check all components i can with a multimeter. I do have one of those. 
Anyone know who carries a cheap fuel pressure gauge for checking fuel pressure?


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

Man, you're making this alot harder on yourself than you need to. You said it runs fine until it warms up a bit. Odds are its a Coolant Temp Sensor or an O2 sensor.
Computer says its the O2 sensor. Its a 1996. Original O2 sensor? 
Before you spend alot of time and energy checking everything else, change the O2 sensor.
Its due anyway. See what happens. GL


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Yes it is the original sensor. I will go ahead and change it out and check the CTS.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I changed the O2 sensor and checked the coolant temperature sensor. It checked out well within specs. This made no difference. Still misses on acceleration, and gets worse as the engine gets warmer.


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

96sx said:


> I changed the O2 sensor and checked the coolant temperature sensor. It checked out well within specs. This made no difference. Still misses on acceleration, and gets worse as the engine gets warmer.


Like I said before, 02 sensors wont cause it to miss. Wait until it starts missing and pull out one spark plug wire at a time and see if removing the wire makes a difference. It'll take 4 seconds.


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

ilikespeeding is correct. Let me clarify. An O2 sensor, in itself, won't cause a miss. But an O2 sensor can malfuction over time and cause damage to the catalytic converter. Damaged converter can cause misfire under load especially after warming up.
96sx, I'm not saying the converter is problematic. Just pointing out that a symptom can have many root problems. You did nothing wrong by changing the O2 sensor.
Did you make sure to clear the codes and clear the self-learning control?
Its just good practice to "reset" the system so no erroneous codes lead you in the wrong direction.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I did clear the code, but i am not sure what the "self learning control" is.
I did make another observation yesterday. I started it when cold and just let it idle for awhile. I noticed as it got warmer and warmer the idle began to get rougher. It never really missed, it just idled a little rough. Any ideas?


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

96sx said:


> I did clear the code, but i am not sure what the "self learning control" is.
> I did make another observation yesterday. I started it when cold and just let it idle for awhile. I noticed as it got warmer and warmer the idle began to get rougher. It never really missed, it just idled a little rough. Any ideas?


With mitsubishis, there is an idle adjustment screw. There is most likely a nissan coorespondant. Try upping the idle a little. Fast idle would open the idle up during cold start causing the the normal idle, and once fast idle was disabled, the idle would drop, causing a rough idle.

EDIT: to clear code, take off negative battery cable for 15 minutes. The 2nd O2 sensor would pick up a converter failure.


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

I am assuming you're using a generic scan tool and clearing the codes that way. Don't bother with disconnecting the battery as its not necessary. Like I said before, I wasn't saying you had a converter problem. I think you probably knew that but I guess ilikespeeding didn't. Do you have a FSM for your car? I can give you the procedure for resetting the self-learning but its for a '96 1.6 Sentra. Although since we're dealing with the same year and engine, it will most likely work.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I do have a FSM.


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

Under DTC P0170, Fuel Injection System Function (DTC: 0706) the procedure is given.
With or without CONSULT. 
By the way, is the MIL still coming on?


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## ilikespeeding (Dec 9, 2006)

wrench said:


> I am assuming you're using a generic scan tool and clearing the codes that way. Don't bother with disconnecting the battery as its not necessary. Like I said before, I wasn't saying you had a converter problem. I think you probably knew that but I guess ilikespeeding didn't. Do you have a FSM for your car? I can give you the procedure for resetting the self-learning but its for a '96 1.6 Sentra. Although since we're dealing with the same year and engine, it will most likely work.


I was just letting you know that if there was a converter failure, the 2nd O2 would pick it up. Yes, you are correct that a problem with the A:F can fuck up a cat. I, however, assumed that you brought your car over to advanced and had them run the code. The ghetto way of clearing it is to reset the ECU. Not that either way is incorrect. Mine is just a little more ghetto and you lose your radio stations.


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## topz (May 15, 2006)

Clean your IAC valve?


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Check engine light is no longer on.
I will clean the IAC valve next and inform of any change.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

OK. Still need major help. Here is what else has been done thus far.
Fuel pressure checked at 34 PSI at idle. 43 PSI with vacuum detached. If i give it throttle it will jump to around 40 than level back to 34.
Coolant temp sensor checked. OK 
Front O2 sensor replaced. No code now.
TPS volt readings checked and is within spec readings.
MAF checked. Readings are aprox 1.2 volts at idle and aprox 3 volts at 4000 RPM. Appears to be below spec on both counts.
Another observation, the diaphram on the egr valve never seems to move regardless of temp, idle, or reving the engine. I can press on the diaphram with my hand at idle and it will almost kill the engine (which i think that would be normal). Should the diaphram open slightly on acceleration?
What would be your accessment thus far.
Still stumbles terrible upon acceleration when enging has reached operating temp.
HELP.


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## 200SushiX (Jul 12, 2002)

I'm starting to have the same problem, ('98 200SX, 70,000+ miles). I don't think 
the warming is part of the problem, though, since it starts doing it after about 2-1/2 
miles, (the distance from work to home), and it doesn't get worse on longer, hotter 
trips. Here's my prob: cruising along at 45mph, no problem, but when I slow down, 
turn and accelerate, I feel some major hesitation, and it's not the gas. I thought it 
could be MAF sensor, maybe? Runs fine when she's "up to speed", just feels like 
crap when I'm trying to accelerate. Don't think it's a misfire issue, either, since 
nothing's been changed to the car in that respect. It's getting kind of annoying, but 
still not a major problem. I bought the car at 27,000, so mabye it's the plugs? 
I don't think they've ever been changed. HAHA! Also, it's not misfiring, in my case,
just sluggish acceleration; what's the life expectancy of Nissan plugs?


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

96sx said:


> OK. Still need major help. Here is what else has been done thus far.
> Fuel pressure checked at 34 PSI at idle. 43 PSI with vacuum detached. If i give it throttle it will jump to around 40 than level back to 34.
> Coolant temp sensor checked. OK
> Front O2 sensor replaced. No code now.
> ...


You have certainly been thorough! At this point I would suggest a bit of a reset. The majority of problems are caused by simple breakdowns. They may not be simple to locate however. Diligently inspect every vacuum hose. Inspect all accessible electrical connections (disconnect and reconnect). Check and clean and/or retighten any ground points. 
The EGR valve typically won't open until around 2000 rpm. Sounds like the circulation aspect of the system is fine. Go ahead and remove the vacuum hose off the valve and plug it with a golf tee or the like. Take the car for a spin and see if you get any improvement. I kinda doubt you will, but you will at least eliminate that area as a possible cause. GL


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## wrench (Jan 31, 2007)

Oh yeah, don't forget to clear the codes for the EGR after your test drive, and then plug the hose back on.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Just another observation. As stated before, runs great at cold start up.
I started it on saturday after it was cold and let it idle to normal operating temp. I was able to detect a clearly defined point during the warm up stage when i could notice a significate change in the smoothness of the idle. It never really started missing at idle, it just started to idle rougher. It was almost like a switch was turned on ans them it began to idle rough. After this point is where it will miss and stumble upon acceleration.


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## oliverr87 (Sep 23, 2005)

your cat could be clogged


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Anyone have any other ideas on this problem??


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## CannibalCorpse (Oct 2, 2006)

I have the same exact problem and hopefully, someone comes up with something. Mine has New O2 sensor, platinum plugs,fuel filter and wires. No codes on ECU The only code it got this year is from the faulty speed sensor. Ran vehicle for 45 minutes with the Autotap diagnostic tool on graph record mode. Everything is fine when its cold or is up to speed but accelerating from a standstill when hot is like the 4th of july fireworks sound coming out of my car's fartcan. It sounds like 2 cylinders are misfiring and gets normal at 2500rpm with a lead foot on the throttle all the way. The misfire spot is 1900-2600rpm even with only halfway throttle.The acceleration misfires get worse as the engine runs longer or maybe hotter. Im suspecting the wires since it was a replacement set from Kragen and all of the other components I bought was OEM including the platinum plugs. Before I was only getting a periodic misfire and thats it. Now it's like a continious misfire unless i back off the throttle. This problem gradually surfaced within 1 month after i replaced the O2 sensor, plugs and wires.


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

This is interesting. Mine got worse after new wires and plugs as well.


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## CannibalCorpse (Oct 2, 2006)

just replaced the spark plug wires with the more expensive and somewhat thinner OEM wires, Started stuttering again after 5 minutes of stop & go driving. I just drove it like hell as soon as i got in the freeway reaching 90mph on 4th when the coast is clear in a desperate attept to purge anything that contributes to the problem. The mifires still gets worse when the engine has been running longer and hotter.My only option now is to replace the igniter distributor assembly which is also expensive but that will have to wait. The wire purchase just depleted mt budget


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

Keep me informed of the out come.


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## Mahatmacoat (Sep 21, 2007)

*Any news?*

Any news on this!? My car has the same problem. When the car gets to the "Normal" area on the temp gauge the car stumbles upon acceleration and freakin stalls at the lights. Very undrivable. What is the point of owning an efi car if mechanics don't know anything and can't fix it, and there are no forums where this problem has a solution!?!?!?!?!?!? Should I go back to a Datsun 1600 carburetted car? They don't make them like they use to.

Sorry just venting.

But seriously, i've replaced everything people here told me to. Cat convertor, wires, plugs, distributor, ignition, injectors, MAF, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, Idle control, EGR, checked all vac hoses, swapped ECU with a friends one who had exact same car, no error codes nothing. Its as if there is no fix for this.

Well there is a fix. Its called try everything obvious and then torch the car. I've wasted a large amount of time on the car, as have many garages and they are all as dumbfounded as me. I am sure this is not a one off problem. Surely the fix for this exists. And no its not "each case is different". This so called stumbling upon acceleration and stalling at the lights is because of a similar freaking problem, yet there is no easy fix. How the [email protected][email protected]( is that?

Look i'll keep you posted and I will SAY exactly what the cause was, to the finest detail should I freakin find the cause. And no I am not going to change an o2 sensor or sparkplugs again. IT IS NOT THE BASICS.

Thanks and good luck for those unfortunate enough to have the problem. For those that havne't got the problem yet, when you do. Go through the basics, but then roll the car off a cliff, because it looks like there is no fix for something simple like "misfires or stumbles upon acceleration" or "stalling when hot in an EFi car".


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I have gone through the same motions as you. Hopefully there is someone out there that has a solution.


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## sercool (Feb 26, 2004)

The only thing that's helped my car so far has been replacing the fuel filter and distributor cap. But the fix only seem temporary. The cap on my car is constantly getting a lot of corrosion on the contact points. Have to clean it at least once a month. Gas mileage has been real weird too. One tank will get 330mi, next 240mi. Has anyone tried replacing their fuel pump with any success?

I've still got a lot of testing to do, think it must be in the fuel system.


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## Mahatmacoat (Sep 21, 2007)

There is no fix. Replaceing the car with completely new parts still doesn't fix it. Your best bet is to either torch it, or re-seat the ECU.

I've given up, after spending $7,000 replacing everything the problem still persists.

Maybe cars enter "timebomb" mode. Stupid disposable cars.


I guess since the car pings going uphill I may need a new fuel filter. But this doesn't explain why the car only does this when its in the "Normal" area of the Temp gauge.

Piece of fuckin shit car.

Time to get a motorbike.


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## Amediville (Jul 6, 2008)

Been awhile since anyone posted but I may have the answer.My 98 Prizm has similar issues, stumbles so badly now on acceleration that I nearly miss green lights trying to get thru intersections! I started searching for similarities under the prizm tonight. ALL SIGNS LEAD TO THE MAF!! If that is something you haven't looked at, give it a shot. I'm going to!


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## 96sx (Apr 21, 2007)

I changed MAF as well. no help.
My problem was the distributor. Put new distributor on, problem solved. Runs great now and gets 38-40 MPG.


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## SOBS (Jul 20, 2008)

*1997 Nissan Truck (4x4) Hesitates During Accleration no codes*

I'm having a very similiar Problem and decided to research here and try to solve this one.

Truck is a 5 Speed and only hesitates during acceleration at normal operating tempuratures. I believe it's something to do with the Emissions control but have been unable to narrow it down. The EGR valve acts like it should. 
How do I temporarialy disable the EGR?
Could it be the BPT Valve? (I'm unable to test it) 
I'm going thru the whole Emission unit piece by piece and praying for the best.:fluffy: Each of these peices alone are expensive so I want to find the right one the first time. 
Is not my nissan truck but the closes good picture I could find.








I'll log my results here hopefully with the answer to my problems.

SOBS


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

96sx said:


> Help, I have a 96 nissan 200sx with 270,000 miles, the 1.6 engine, man trans. Been running great until recently. It has become a little harder to start lately and once the engine has warmed a little it begins to stumble and missfire upon acceleration (hard or moderate acceleration), and seems to get worse the longer you drive it, almost to the point it becomes undrivable. If you can maintain a constant speed with no movement in the accelerator it seems to do OK. It will idle fine as well. If you start it when it is cold it will run fine, idle fine, and accelerate fine until the engine gets a little heat in it.
> No modifications have been done to car. I have changed plugs, wires, cap & rotor, but it made no difference. Fuel filter was changed about a year ago.
> The check engine light has been going off and on for a long time now throwing a P0130 code every time (o2 sensor circuit malfunction, bank1 sensor 1). This is the only code the scanner is reading. I have not replaced the O2 sensor yet. Would this likely be the sole problem or would i have other issues as well?
> Any help would be most appreciated


First, love the fact you've hit that kind of mileage, gives me hope since I'm at 154k now. Anyway, I would check the timing and see if it may have jumped. Timing chain been changed?

Jason


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

Mahatmacoat said:


> There is no fix. Replaceing the car with completely new parts still doesn't fix it. Your best bet is to either torch it, or re-seat the ECU.
> 
> I've given up, after spending $7,000 replacing everything the problem still persists.
> 
> ...


I would say you're a dumb POS if you spent that kind of money on any car, especially a sentra or a 200sx. I could buy 3-5 of these for that.:lame::lame::fluffy:


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## nadrealista (Feb 15, 2007)

*whole distributor or just distributor cap?*



96sx said:


> I changed MAF as well. no help.
> My problem was the distributor. Put new distributor on, problem solved. Runs great now and gets 38-40 MPG.


whole distributor or just distributor cap?


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Hey guy's I'm going through a similer deal with my 96 Sentra and I am begining to wonder if it might be a problem with the egr and or the emissions crap??? Anyone ever have a problem with there egr's and or there emissions solinoid? if so what did you experiance?? Sorry did'nt mean to butt in on your thread. I'm getting desperate is all!


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## sentra77 (Aug 3, 2008)

try using some mass air flow sensor cleaner to you maf. this happened to me before and i changed basically everything from plugs to o2 sensors. and finally my friend told me to use that stuff and its like a cancer patient getting better! hope this helps


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## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Yea been there already to! I'm about to bring the dam thing to the Stealer but i just don't have the cash for the Diagnostics! The last time I had a problem like this it was the computer on a Mitsubishi engine it was screwed up and I checked evry dam sensor there was and if it was even slitghtly out of wack it got changed then I finaly said screw it and brought it to the dealer and the diagnoses was bad CPU!


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

been a few months for this thread but it turned out to be my distributor


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## Recian (Sep 30, 2008)

mine was doing that at about 204,000. I had the PCV seal on the v/c was bad so it was sucking oil off the 2/3 cam lobes and putting it back into the engine(i had to CUT off the seal it was so hardened it cracked off it's supposed to be rubber) causing a VERY bad knock and misfire and a MAJOR lack of power at moderate/high load in addition to bad blue smoke. it only got worse with driving cuz the engine would pressurize more causing it to blow more oil meaning the mixture couldnt combust from all the oil


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

lols i avoided that because the spark plug tube seal were gone and oil was in the spark plug holes, long story short i used a b13 cover and replace all the gaskets and seals including the one you are talking about....so i dodged that problem lols

p.s. that seal cost me 5.99 at the stealership dammit


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## Recian (Sep 30, 2008)

ya cost me $4 at the dealership  only cuz i work there lol


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

Recian said:


> ya cost me $4 at the dealership  only cuz i work there lol


instant jealousy you just added the hot water lols


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## Recian (Sep 30, 2008)

lmfao theyre trying to take away the discounts for us cuz the manager is a cheap sob >< but the only reason i had to replace that seal under those circumstances cuz my kit didnt have one. maybe someone took it, maybe it fell out the box at the auto store but i didnt have that little seal


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

yeah the v/c kit only comes with the tube seals, screw grommets and the cover gasket


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## Recian (Sep 30, 2008)

it's a conspiracy so u have to go to the dealer


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

well the problem is back and im going nucken futs.


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## Recian (Sep 30, 2008)

what have u done to the car so far to fix this? have u changed the oil? is the CEL on? if it is what code does it have?
Does it have timing chain noise? can u fix it by turning the distributor?
vacuum leak? EGR? EVAP? all these not working correctly will cause it to do this under a load or off-idle condition be specific and i can help u figure it out


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## formerrx7guy (Feb 1, 2008)

here is a link to my own thread so i dont thread jack and it also has a video...

http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/150927-ive-got-dreaded-hesitation.html


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## CovertFirewall (Jan 18, 2009)

Been having the same problem with my '99 Sentra GXE. Once it starts warming up, if I push the gas down too much then the engine response is a terrible hesitation/stumbling that makes it sound like my car is choking. It usually only does this under 2500 rpms. 

Still dont know the cause of this... I've tried a new fuel filter and some MAF cleaner.

I do have a cold air intake installed. 

We need help - this seems to be a common problem.

Basically, I'm seeing two possible solutions: 1. the distributor 2. something with the MAF or sensor

Anybody have anything to add??


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## agoratrader (Apr 7, 2009)

I have a SR20 with stock intake and this issue was resolved for me by sealing a leak in the intake tube that was caused by dry rotting. As I'm sure was mentioned already verify there are no leaks in your air delivery system.


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## whitetailhunter (Jul 26, 2009)

*Same problem as everyone else, TY to 96SX*



96sx said:


> I changed MAF as well. no help.
> My problem was the distributor. Put new distributor on, problem solved. Runs great now and gets 38-40 MPG.


As noted we all have the same symptoms, reason to believe the solutions should be similar, I went a stpe further than 96sx in finding out why my distributor turned out to be my problem, ITS IN THE MODUAL, I replaced my engine and got these symptoms in return, turned out the distributor modual was the culprit. Pulled the one outta the old motor and poof ,,,, NO MORE MISS.....runs great now, ty 96SX.......


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

whitetailhunter said:


> As noted we all have the same symptoms, reason to believe the solutions should be similar, I went a stpe further than 96sx in finding out why my distributor turned out to be my problem, ITS IN THE MODUAL, I replaced my engine and got these symptoms in return, turned out the distributor modual was the culprit. Pulled the one outta the old motor and poof ,,,, NO MORE MISS.....runs great now, ty 96SX.......


now that's something I can use. Also have this problem and glad I found this thread. But mine stated when the screw that held the rotor came off a second time while in the turnpike. I continued to drive until the engine quit on me. I could have damage something the distributor because of my stupidity. Note to those that thinks its the EGR - its not. An EGR malfunction will not cause a misfire. It will make your car feel that you have a very small engine that uses up gas like an SUV. Yup had that problem before too


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Ahh.. sorry but - what is a modual? I replied before I searched. And the internet has no record of any ignition modual. was that a typo? was that supposed to be "Module"? If it is, where is it located in a B14 ga16de? there are no external coil or igniter in these cars. Thanks.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jopet said:


> Ahh.. sorry but - what is a modual? I replied before I searched. And the internet has no record of any ignition modual. was that a typo? was that supposed to be "Module"? If it is, where is it located in a B14 ga16de? there are no external coil or igniter in these cars. Thanks.


The ignitor/pickup/module thing is at the base of the distributor itself, under the rotor, inside the cap (not under the distributor like as in next to the block), the 3/4 circular donut looking thing. And I can see that thing going to crap especially after getting messed with by a 'floating rotor' like you had. That thing does the same thing as the old school GM HEI module. Ground out the tach terminal just once, and the transistors get damaged, runs good now, doesn't run good hot, or under a load, misfires, blah blah blah. If you forgot the dielectric grease under it, same thing. Kinda touchy things. Basically, they're nothing more than a darlington transistor pair that does the job of the points setup...switches the coil on and off as required.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

I thought so. Was just making sure before I did anything. I can go ahead now an look for the part. If my search was right, the module is about half priced as a complete distributor unit. That means I will be saving and should have the car running fine. Thank you very much.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jopet said:


> I thought so. Was just making sure before I did anything. I can go ahead now an look for the part. If my search was right, the module is about half priced as a complete distributor unit. That means I will be saving and should have the car running fine. Thank you very much.


I think you might be getting bit by 'false economy'.
Your present distributor already has a jacked up rotor hold-down screw hole. Why not get the whole thing, and keep the one you have as a spare. It happened once (the screw on the rotor), it'll probably happen again, right? At least that's what I'm counting on, even though I put locktite on the new screw and I'm going to buy a new complete distributor assembly. And, besides that, the module you've got now at least half-ass works. The new module might work perfectly. Maybe later down the road, your new module completely dumps. If you had your old module, at least you'll have something to swap in there and get you to the parts store.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

jdgrotte, I guess majority rules. Was just talking to my brother. Same suggestion. The whole thing. Been on the web for the past days checking on prices. It looks like the prices have gone down for distributors. Besides, installing the module could be messed up? and will create more problems. I'll get a whole distributor and tinker around with the old one for learning purposes. Any suggestions on what brand or what to look out for when shopping for distributors? Thanks very much!!!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I'd say just get a bone stock distributor, OEM type. Don't know much about aftermarket type stuff for Nissan's. I spent my earlier years building up SB Chevy's and Ford's. I could talk all day about those...kinda new to Nissan specific stuff. I'm sure they're out there, but I don't have any experience in good or bad. I'd take either a re-manufactured unit or brand new unit the same either way.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

what can I say? Replaced the distributor and as with everyone else, fixed the problem. Installing a distributor is easy on this engine. Now I have to find a timing light. I think I got it as close as possible. I still need to check though. Thanks a lot for the help.


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## 93 sentration (Jun 7, 2008)

Always use oem electrical parts its a cant lose situation. Unfortunately the cars are mechanical and WILL BREAK DOWN when we cant afforrd it..


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

93 sentration said:


> Unfortunately the cars are mechanical and WILL BREAK DOWN when we cant afforrd it..


Or EXACTLY halfway between where we once were to EXACTLY half way to where we were going.

JOPET - good game. Glad to hear it's all sorted out...


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

jdgrotte said:


> Or EXACTLY halfway between where we once were to EXACTLY half way to where we were going.
> 
> JOPET - good game. Glad to hear it's all sorted out...


JD, saw your reply in the other thread. Im here right now to ask where the hell can I get an ignition module? Id prefer it new. Been searching half a day on the internet. I dont thnk the local parts store carry these kinds of parts. Im just preparing for what I may need to do. I did get a distributor replacement but that didnt last long. Its not misfiring but acceleration is embarassing. And, since I replaced the distributor, the engine sounded different. Its louder and deeper, you know its having a hard time. I should get some more info after I have the engine diagnosis at nissan. And yeah, the mechanics may be book smart only, I am counting on the machine to be smarter


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

1. Spark plugs fouled
2. Problem with the fuel injection system
3. Fuel filter clogged
4. Incorrect ignition timing
5. Intake manifold air leak
6. Problem with the emissions control system

*Cylinder compression check*, check intake system, AIR FILTER, air control valve of vacuum hoses, injectors, spark plug gap.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jopet said:


> where the hell can I get an ignition module? Id prefer it new.


Couldn't tell ya past looking around at a junkyard or buying a complete new distributor assembly.



> I did get a distributor replacement but that didnt last long. Its not misfiring but acceleration is embarassing. And, since I replaced the distributor, the engine sounded different. Its louder and deeper, you know its having a hard time.


Almost sounds to me like the timing is too far retarded, even if the marks all line up right and your timing light is telling you it's all good. And judging from the issues you've had, that just might be the problem. Silly question...you are setting the timing using the timing light on the #1 cylinder and doing it according to the instructions in the Haynes/Chilton's manual or whatever, not just hooking up a light and seeing what's up right? I don't remember the exact procedure off the top of my head, but it seems to me, like other engines, you have to do something before trying to set the BASE timing (like on the old Chevy small blocks, you had to disconnect the vacuum advance otherwise you're timing would be about 15 degrees too far retarded, that sort of thing).
Just for grins, try advancing the distributor a bit, no timing light, no nothing, just give it a shot. The engine will let you know if you've tweaked it too far. Loosen up the distributor a little bit, fire up the engine, let it idle for a minute or so, then go up front and just barely advance the timing just a little bit (turn it opposite the direction that the rotor itself is turning). If you go too far, the engine will spit back at you a little bit or maybe the idle will fall off. Nothing to worry about as long as you don't go hot rodding around like that. If the engine doesn't spit back at you, and it seems to free rev pretty good, shut the engine off, tighten the distributor back down and take it out for a spin and see what happens. If you've advanced it too far, it'll start knocking and pinging a bit under a light load, and the ECU will back off the timing for you.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

well Im back from nissan. Here is what was found: MAF, IAC, intake fileter sensors needs replacement including a harness for the IAC diode. Distributor is ok, no prob there. That actually still makes sense since I think after 140k a few sensors would going out. That most specially when the owners (previous) does not take care of the car. quoted $500 for everything. should be pulling my hair out just now, but as I was looking through my mail, the gas company gave a refund check. What great timing (no puns intended) I hope to be REALLY getting more than 35mpg after this, if not I'll really be pulling my hair off!!


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

You could get all of those sensors for less than $500...just not new. Hell, Ill sell you a MAF sensor.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

zacward said:


> You could get all of those sensors for less than $500...just not new. Hell, Ill sell you a MAF sensor.


yup. Im sure we can. Ive been through the internet everytime I feel I need to know parts information. But in this case Id go getting these from the dealer. I really want the car fixed and this option I haven't tried. Im not used to buying online, only when there is no choice. Besides, I can always go back to nissan if something goes wrong and yell at someone face to face


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## zacward (Aug 23, 2009)

Haha well there you go then


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Car's running better now after all those sensors were replaced. Now I have cat problems that I should be able get fixed in a few days. I guess that's what's causing some roughness to the engine. Im also trying to find where the coolant temp sensor for the B14. Just want to be sure. Is it to the left of the intake manifold? I could not find any sensors around where the coolant hose goes in the engine. I think this cold weather is actually helping the performance of the car. I want to drain the coolant and clean or replace that coolant temp sensor before it gets too cold out here to fix cars with bare hands. So much to do, too little time.


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## 93 sentration (Jun 7, 2008)

Holy crap this thread has a whole bunch of mulitple issues in it with good fixes as well.
Hope everyone got their car running good now...


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