# how-to interior trim painting



## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Ok,
The how-to portion is fairly easy.
Take out your parts, spray the paint on. Duh.
But here's what I did.
As per nismogirls thread, where she gunmetalled her interior trim pieces I decided to copy her idea and use Duplicolor wheel paint on interior pieces since they have a nice deep metallic look.
Instead of gunmetal, since I already have an aluminum bezel, I picked 'silver' which looks like aluminum.

Basically I unscrewed the pieces, and lightly sanded or scuffed the pieces with 320-400 grit papaer. I wasn't sanding them smooth, just give them some bite to let the paint grab.
I chose the door handle trim rings (super fragile I broke two when installing my stereo, and broke one on the rear door to do this. But the're only a few bucks at the dealer.), the center console surround, the piece between the hazard switch and the de-fog, the HVAC surround, and the window switch consoles.

I put them all out on newspaper and sprayed 4-5 coats of silver (15 minutes in between) and hour later I sprayed 3 coats of clear.
I learned that you have to spray this paint about a foot away and dust the pieces over and over again. beacuse of its 'metallic' look if you spray to close the flake partivles glob up together. There is no way to paint a medium coat or heavy coat on plastic. My rims were another story, but you're supposed to do multiple light coats anyway.
You can see in one of the pictures the globbing up. I took laquer thinner and wiped the whole thing clean and started over.
Do not hold the pieces in your hand since you will not have a level sprayig surface. This paint is super sensitive.

Overall I feel it is a pretty crappy job since it is the wrong paint on the wrong materials prepped the wrong way. However I have to wait for it to dry and install it in the car to really see how it came out. Its still wet so has that orange peel look. However this paint dries smooth. Maybe when its all dry it will come out fairly nice.
Either way if it is crappy, I'll just thinner it to death, get it professionally done, or just get used ones from a junk yard.
Trim stickers are too expensive.

Here are some preliminary shots of the painted parts.

















a little too much spray









Seth


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

ugh that looks horrible bro, and it will dry horrible as well. let me set you straight on this how to, since ive repainted my interior, and have a professional looking finish.

1. remove all pieces you want to paint (this is a given =P)
2. Wash, wash and wash those pieces until they are clean as f*ck. This step is extremely important.
3. For a professional finish, sanding is everything, start with a rough grit (300-400) and work yourself into a higher and higher grit, you want to remove that fake leather grain stamped into the plastic when you do this. You should have no traces of that fake leather grain left when youre done. Finish the sanding process with ultra fine grit. When youre done sanding it will look almost as if you had never sanded it at all. it will just be grainless and a lighter shade from being scuffed up.
4. Once everything is sanded and ready to go, wash, wash, wash and wash it again to get rid of all the dust from the sanding, there will be tons of it.
5. Once the parts have dried completely, lay out a newspaper, rest the parts on them, and have the following materials ready:

Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer (get the gray primer for light colors, and the black primer for dark colors).

Plasti-Kote color spray paint of your choice. I went with Candy Apple Blue, which has medium sized metallic flakes in the paint, its also enamel based.

Plasti-Kote clear coat of your choice. Because I went with Candy Apple Blue paint, I bought their Candy Apple Clear Coat as well, which has transparent flakes in it to enahnce the sparkling effect.

Have some extra sandpaper laying around (wet sanding grit, super fine/Utra fine works just fine).

6. Now with all your materials ready start dusting the piece you paint with the primer. it will take several passes to dust it properly, any gaps, gouges, and scratches in the piece should be filled with a heavy coat of primer, then sanded smooth later.

After about 3 full coats of primer, lightly sand it down smooth, and wipe it down thoroughly with a clean dry rag. Once you have established a good coat of primer, and filled in imperfections, you are ready to move to the paint itself. Make sure your primer has thoroughly dried before you attempt to sand it or move to the next step, or it will glob up on the sand paper and ruin all your work, or it will bleed into your color paint.

7. Next, again using the dusting method, lay down about 3-4 fully covered coatings of your color. make sure you spray from an even distance if you use a metallic flake paint, or your flakes will not distribute across the surface evenly. avoid runs at all costs. If a run develops, wait for the color coating to dry completely, then sand it out and respray the area with another coat. You should give at least 30 minutes for drying time between each coat, depending on the weather, more time for cold/windy/humid weather, less time for hot/arid weather.

Once you've finished with the color spray, evaluate the product and make sure there are no imperfections, even small ones will look worse ocne the clearcoat is applied. if you find them, fix them.

8. Now for the final step, using the same steps used above to paint your color, apply your clear, and allow for more drying time. You should put at least 4 coats of clear on to protect the piece from scratches and chips, interior trim pieces tend to take a beating.

9. Once your clear is finished, dried and glossy, evaluate your work again, any runs in the clear can be sanded out with ultra fine grit paper and then you can reclear over it. Once you are satisfied with the outcome, reinstall the pieces and enjoy.

THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE OPTIONAL:

If you want a professional looking finish, youll need to wait about a month for the clear coat on the interior pieces to cure completely. You probably noticed the orange peel on the final products, this is the way to get rid of that and make it ultra smooth and highly glossy. The orange peel in sethwas's picture is infact not orange peel, it is the fake leather grain stamped into the plastic, and it has caused the metallic flake to pool up in the low areas, and recede in the high areas. This will not go away when it dries, and the only way to get rid of this effect is to sand smooth and start over.

The orange peel you should notice (if you followed my instructions), will be in the clear coat, and will be mainly visible when light reflects off of it showing redges in the shiny spots.

To rectify this unavoidable event, you go to your local autoparts store, but some fine grit cutting compound, and rent a buffer with a fine cloth pad.

Take some wet sanding grade sandpaper (1600 grit+), wet the piece down and sand lightly at it until youve removed the larger bumps in the clear. Once youve worn them down a good bit, you take the cutting compound, add it to a rag, and start sanding away with that. When youre finished you should notice a completely flat area, with no bumps or orangepeel whatsoever, however your clear coat will have fogged up and made the job look shitty. Have no fear this is where the buffer comes in handy. Take your buffer and begin to buff away at the clear coat, be careful not to overbuff or you will burn through the clear into your paint, just take your time, eventually your clear coat will shine back up like new, but without that pesky orange peel.

Ill shoot some pics of my interior when i get the chance, you can see what the result should look like, althought i did mine is less than perfect conditions (dusty/windy weather) it still came out looking almost professional. When midsummer hits ill be repainting everything so it comes out looking completely professional.

Good first attempt Sethwas, spraypainting is not as easy as it sounds, and it takes some balls to ripout your trim and risk making it completely ugly to try and improve the looks of your car. Hopefully my guide helps you achieve a more professional finish.


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

I want to paint my center surround and steering wheel but i dont want that body panel look. I want to keep the leather grain so it looks factory. I'm thiking i should get Sherwin Williams to mix me up some paint the color of the dark gray part of the two tone gray interiors. Like a dumb ass i tryed super gluing a steering wheel cover to the steering wheel and when it eventually broke loose and i removed it some of the leather grain came off in certain spots. anyone know of a way to get it back or do i have to get another from a junkyard? to allow the paint to stick i only have to rough up the steering wheel and center surround (remember i want to keep the leather look to it) or would i be better of hotgluing factory vinyl(the stuff they wrapped the dash board in) to the center surround and using a heat gun to get it perfect. and doing the same thing but stitching it with the steering wheel.(i rather have a leather steering wheel anyway, I might even give it some brushed aluminum look plastic grips)


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

---Good first attempt Sethwas, spraypainting is not as easy as it sounds, and it takes some balls to ripout your trim and risk making it completely ugly to try and improve the looks of your car. Hopefully my guide helps you achieve a more professional finish.---

Thanks,
But I am already a fairly decent painter (I do airbrush modelling and know all about laquers and enamels and clears, and how to coat and buff and stuff) but this isn't an excuse about my crappy job. 
I just wanted to see how the interior pieces would look with just a few coats of base and spray. (like my valve cover or rims, and fluid caps, etc.) The orange peel I know is not visible in the photo's, and what you see globbed, is the heavy spray dripping down.
It has since been repaired.
Anyway, I'll take pictures tonight of the finished sort of) product and what it looks like in the car.

Thanks for the long writeup. I'm sure others will get good use out of it before they attempt to do it themselves. I'm not embarrassed that mine came out bad, it was an experiment anyway. Thats what the forums are for, to show others mistakes and find out how to fix them.

Seth

P.S. For those who don't know the difference (the basic difference anyway) between an enamel and a laquer:
enamel: paint 'dries' or cures to the item being painted.
laquer: there is a 'solvent' in the paint that evaporated leaving the colored pigment on the part.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

OK,
So the finished product isn't as bad as I thought. Its super smooth to the touch even though it has ridges in the photos (the paint filled in the cracks). It matches the real aluminum fairly well. Only on the drivers side window control area is there a clear clob of a color paint run. You can't see it unless you look for it in good lighting.
Obviously the best looking parts are the ones that are super smooth to begin with, namesly the HVAC surround.
For a quick job on a friday afternoon it decidedly isn't crap, even though I thought it was. Now its just 'ok'. It isn't nearly professional, since you can still see the 'leatherette' stamp. However I'll wait to see what it looks like in the daytime.
Sorry for the superbright flash. Its a fully auto digicam (I need an SLR digital) so I can't de-power the flash. 



















































Seth


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## JayL1967 (Apr 30, 2002)

Not too bad though...
Can you paint mines?
How much?


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Ha ha...

Here's a closeup:









Seth

P.S. I know how all of you love the blue washer light. Its my most expensive and most worth it mod. It gets me all the ladies and I can't believe how fast my car is with them. Its even better than my painted stock airbox. Thank god it only goes on when turning, otherwise my car would be just too much to handle.

P.P.S. WHATS UP mothers gold carnuba cleaner wax nice refleciton on the hood!


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## nitestridar (Jun 29, 2002)

good job...


It came out like mine but mine don't have that sparkel....
I was also thinking of painting the hvac overlay...


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Hmm,
Now I just need some Air vent surrounds, and that one piece Exalta center console. Plus maybe paint the auto shifter inner piece. NOT the shifter surround, thats part of the center console, just the plastic sleeve over the PRND12 area. 

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14446&highlight=exalta

Seth


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

looks good seth. But does anyone know how to paint or dye the leather look interior panels (steering wheel, center surround) so they match the dark gray of the two tone gray interiors and still keep the leather look??


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

So here in the daytime you can see that the color matches the real aluminum fairly well. If only it was real aluminum...

Seth

P.S. I noticed some grains of sand that got painted over. The pressure of the spray must've kicked some up onto the pieces when they were on the newspaper on the floor.

Seth


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

those pieces look much better seth 

and yeah i forgot to mention that part, make sure the area you choose to do your painting in is free of dirt, dust, debris, sawdust, andthing that can float up into the air and settle on your wet paint, or youve just ruined your paintjob. The idea place is in a well swept or even hosed down garage, with the garage door shut, in the middle of a 100 degree day, with no wind. lol. Can you imagine how fun this would be?

JayL1967: Ill paint all your interior pieces for 125 bucks plus materials, that includes sanding.


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## MP2050 (May 1, 2002)

NICE work seth....I was wondering Why U would go gray and then I realized the --"Aluminum Look".


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## 1CLNB14 (Apr 30, 2002)

Not bad....

I had mine color matched (including the 3 stage pearl) by the body shop.


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## MP2050 (May 1, 2002)

1CLNB14 said:


> *Not bad....
> 
> I had mine color matched (including the 3 stage pearl) by the body shop.  *


DAMN show-off......


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

I put alot of clear so the shine is real deep it reflects everything, not exactly a 'brushed' metal look, but my wife likes it and so do all of you, so I guess I'll just have to live with it. 

Seth


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

I got a question. Ive been following this thread cuz I wanted to paint my stuff too. I just wanna know if I got the right stuff.
- Plasti-Kote Sandable Primer
- Plasti-Kote Ultra Enamel(Interior-Exterior)

I havent found any clear coat yet.
Is this stuff right? I mean, I dont see anything on it about plastic. And, does the clear coat have to be Plasti-Kote or would it be safe to use another brand?


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## Guest (May 4, 2003)

i used the plasti-koat clear finish on mine and it came out pretty good...i didnt use plasti-koat enamel for the coloring but i did use some outdoor heat resistant black metallic paint...It stuck to the plastic nicely...


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Well,
I didn't use plasticote or an enamel. I used duplicolor and its a laquer.

Seth


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## cmotek24 (Jun 15, 2002)

sethwas, you married? damn, you're two years older than me and already got it together 

pieces look great bra!

CMo


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

once you primer the plastic, it doesnt really matter what kind of paint you use, they all adhere to the plastic. personally, i used rust oleum mettalic aluminum, it gives a nice "bling bling" finish. although right now everything is just primered, except for the gauge bezel, which i did paint with the metallic aluminum


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

I got my interior ripped out and most of it painted. I still have some vinyl to lay, but the paint is workin out great. It looks a whole lot better than I ever expected it to.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Yeah,
Its surprising. At first you feel bad that you're painting the 'inside' of your car. But then it ends up not looking too bad. If only i bothered to sand the ieces so that there isn't that moulded press in them...

Seth


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## Pretty White (May 6, 2002)

OK, dudes, you guys took the hard way around. Lemme show you how I do mine. The door handles, window crank and door lock have been done too. I will post those pics later:

























And the pro Car Parts brushed alunimum bezel overlay










I am going to have my exterior door handle powdercoated the same color the new 350Z's have theirs. 
As for the sanding, why didn't you guys just wet brillo or SOS? Thats seems soo harsh on plastic. 


I used spray Bond Aid on a Brillo (or SOS) clean/prep the surface(s). 

Then I sprayed about 3-4 coats of paint. Light coats. Maybe more. I used Duplicolor Bumper Paint. Bright Silver. It is very flexible. 

After it dried I used about 3-5 light coats of clear top coat. 

And yes, I took everything apart.


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

I dunno if our way was any harder, paintin is paintin. The parts I have done so far are great and everyone who has seen seems to think I have done an excellent job...they even want me to do theirs. Im very satistied with the way it turned out and im probably goin to rip everything out including the center console and dash and do something with it later. Everyone has a different way...most of them turn out good.
BTW, yours looks great too, it looks like it came out the factory like that. Nice job.


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## Revolution (Dec 26, 2002)

Theres that New Fusion paint that good on plastic


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## Pretty White (May 6, 2002)

LethalAudio said:


> *I dunno if our way was any harder, paintin is paintin. The parts I have done so far are great and everyone who has seen seems to think I have done an excellent job...they even want me to do theirs. Im very satistied with the way it turned out and im probably goin to rip everything out including the center console and dash and do something with it later. Everyone has a different way...most of them turn out good.
> BTW, yours looks great too, it looks like it came out the factory like that. Nice job. *


Thanks! I get the same compliments too. I guess your right, painting is painting.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Yeah,
I'm thinking of redoing mine, but sanding it. Want a smooth finish.

Seth


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

I have all my trim done now, but now I have the door panels ripped out and im takin that cloth out of it and replacing it with red vinyl. Its funny, you say your jus gonna do one thing and by the time you get done, you have 10 more things in mind you want to do. Hey, I aint gonna argue with the voices in my hed...I like what they tell me.


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## Darthkissling (Oct 22, 2002)

i painted mine a while ago, it turned out really good for a first attempt. i need to re-do it for the show comming up. BTW, the pic is in the sig.


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

Ok I got an idea to paint my interior, door panels, dash, A-pillars the whole works. I plan on using these same techniques you guys have mentioned here already is there anything else I should be aware of?


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## Revolution (Dec 26, 2002)

Rama said:


> *Ok I got an idea to paint my interior, door panels, dash, A-pillars the whole works. I plan on using these same techniques you guys have mentioned here already is there anything else I should be aware of? *


clean parts with soap and water or windex

do not use anything with oils such as armor all or something


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

thanks


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Seth, what clear coat did you use?


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

I used a clear enamel, it does the same thing. I also used rubbing alcohol as a cleaner, but soap and water is still just as good.
One thing you want to make sure you do...When you put a fresh layer of primer, paint or clear coat on, be sure to leave it somewhere where bugs and dust cant get to it. I was workin on the steering colomn trim and was rushing it inside the house and a f**kin gnat stuck to it and I was just through puttin a clear coat on it. I ended up sanding the whole piece down again. Also, if you are going to do as much as you can, be sure to get enough paint, Ive been through two can of everything but clear coat. Just use common sense, its kinda easy when you get the first piece done.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

I used the rim clearcoat for the rim paint.

Seth


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

ok, well, I'm about to start a repainting process in my interior. any other tips would be appreciated.

I'm currently sanding and removing the old paint from the pieces. I decided to use duplicolor's silver wheel paint only b/c I love the color from Seth's project. I am using the sanding tool on my dremel to remove the old paint and the leather stamp. when it's all gone, I move to a rough grit sandpaper to get rid of the roughness (from the dremel) and any pits. I wash it off and then I move to a fine grit sand paper and I sand it smooth. So far all the pieces are coming out REAL smooth, almost feels like plexiglas. 

now, I bought some Duplicolor adhering agent from the store, I recently saw it and it looks good. It's supposed to make the paint stick better to plastics. I'm going to spray a coat to all the pieces and see how it works out. After that, I will do a few coats of Duplicolor sandable Primer and sand with a fine grit between coats.

The paint will be applied in several light coats until the pieces are completely covered and then clearcoated with the duplicolor wheel clear coat to promote the metallic flake and gloss.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

Wow,
You're doign alot of what I think will be extra work. You don't need a dremel and you don't need adhearing agent. However I gues it couldn't hurt. Still expect it to come out better than mine since I didn't sand anythign except to scuff the pieces and just sprayed on light coats 15 minutes apart.

Seth


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

well, I need the dremel b/c nothing else seems to be working on removing the old paint.


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

Low grit sandpaper worked for me like 200 or 220.


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## crazy4myb14 (Jan 20, 2003)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *well, I need the dremel b/c nothing else seems to be working on removing the old paint. *


paint thinner should soften the paint down!

Ben


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

where do you guys find this rim paint? i looked in my local walmart, where they have a large amount of duplicolor paints, but nothing that specifically said it was for wheels. also, im considering painting my whole interior primer gray, the whole dash and everything, i love the color of the duplicolor sandable primer, and i want to have a light colored interior, to contrast the black exterior color.


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

OK I have a couple questions here. I want to color match the pieces I am coloring red to match the red of my exterior I have been trying to search for name of paint and the paint code. My car is red I don't know how many different reds were made in 96 but I have only seen one which I think is Aztec Red. If someone could confirm this that would be much appreciated I have been searching for the paint code so I can accurately color match if anyone has this info or a website where I can look up this info that would be great thanks.

Also would red be considered dark or light so I know which primer to use.


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

OK I did some more searching I went to www.paintscratch.com and did a search for the color red and it does seem that Aztec Red is the paint color for my year of 200sx and the code seems to be AG2 it also has a section on that site that tells you where to look on your vehicle for paint codes. So I will go and double check that to make sure it is right. So if anyone else has similar questions I would go there to check it out. See people searching does work I answered my own question and probably helped some people out in future.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

crazy4myb14 said:


> *paint thinner should soften the paint down!
> 
> Ben *


I don't really like the idea of paint thinner on plastic.

BTW, I got another problem, I'm trying to sand these pieces down and I'm having alot of trouble. I use the dremel to remove the paint, and even though it works real well, the cylindrical sanding bits keep grabing the paint and the paint sticks over it making the bit smooth. I can't peel the paint off the bit and I'm going through them like mad. Also, I use regular sandpaper to remove the fake leather stamp look, but it's taking way too much effort. I've been sanding for about 3-5 hours a day for just over a week and I'm only half done. Is there a better way?

I'm not good on the sand paper numbers, but I think the rough one is 100 grit. The second one I use (once the leather look is gone) is real fine, but I'm not sure on the number.


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## Revolution (Dec 26, 2002)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *I don't really like the idea of paint thinner on plastic.
> 
> BTW, I got another problem, I'm trying to sand these pieces down and I'm having alot of trouble. I use the dremel to remove the paint, and even though it works real well, the cylindrical sanding bits keep grabing the paint and the paint sticks over it making the bit smooth. I can't peel the paint off the bit and I'm going through them like mad. Also, I use regular sandpaper to remove the fake leather stamp look, but it's taking way too much effort. I've been sanding for about 3-5 hours a day for just over a week and I'm only half done. Is there a better way?
> 
> I'm not good on the sand paper numbers, but I think the rough one is 100 grit. The second one I use (once the leather look is gone) is real fine, but I'm not sure on the number. *


If i was you i would just go to the slavage and get a whole set of trims . Thats because im lazy 
You can probably use primer filler and give it a bunch a coats so you can get rid of that leather look. 

I used the paint that come in the small cans at autozone. I have Winterblue for my interior. Its really kool color that look sliver with a really slick tint of blue. Really goes good with neons in the interior.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

well, getting new stuff is expensive and I still would need to sand off the leather look either way. I'm not just sanding for a nicer look, I'm sanding so the paint will stick better. I kinda wish I had a belt sander or something, it's just taking too long sanding everything by hand.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

you're using 100 grit? Wow. Its still not coming down. I was figuring I'd start at 220, and work my way to 400.

Seth


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

just take it down with some 80 grit, that will take it off real quick


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

k, I decided to get me some 3M "clog-free" sanding paper @ 60 grit. I'll use this to strip the paint and resurface the stamped texture. I'll use the 100 to smooth it out, then the fine (300-400) to finish it up. I'll tell you how it turns out.


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

Ok now I am seeing some conflicting reports what grit should be used to start with and where do you end up with I am here 100 220 and 300 as starting points, also once you start where do you stop just until the fake leather grain is off or until smooth how should the material be once done sanding?

As for cleaner just soap and water no sprays or wipes? and for soaps can the same soap used to wash the car be used or dish soap? anything to look out for?

Third where do you guys buy your paint? Home Depot or Wal-Mart or any other cheap place?


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Rama said:


> *Ok now I am seeing some conflicting reports what grit should be used to start with and where do you end up with I am here 100 220 and 300 as starting points, also once you start where do you stop just until the fake leather grain is off or until smooth how should the material be once done sanding?
> 
> As for cleaner just soap and water no sprays or wipes? and for soaps can the same soap used to wash the car be used or dish soap? anything to look out for?
> 
> Third where do you guys buy your paint? Home Depot or Wal-Mart or any other cheap place? *


 I would say 80-100 grit will get rid of the stamp look, when you use a low grit, it will make the surface fairly rough, but it'll remove the fake stamp and the roughness will go away as you continue. To smooth it out, I suggest something betwen 100 and 150, and to finish up with a real smooth appearence, finish it with something between 350 and 400. I am only using 60 b/c I'm trying to strip the old paint from some of the pieces.

second: alcohol is suggested, but water and dish soap is all you really need.

third: I got my duplicolor paint at wall mart and auto zone b/c they are the only 2 companies (around here) that sell duplicolor. I wanted duplicolor wheel paint just b/c I like the color Seth was using. You can get plastikote from Pep boys and autozone, and anything else at Lowes and Home Depot.


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

Ok cool thanks. I just wanted to be a little more clear on what I need to go purchase. I think this will end up being one of the better how-to threads. Especially since a few of us are doing at the same time. My project won't start till Father's Day I am taking an extra two days off so I got 4 days of project to work with. I am not for sure how long since I plan doing just about everything still need to figure out the pillars and the side panels by the back seat. I'll post pics once I get stuff working payday not till Friday so everything is on hold. I should have some pics up by Monday or Tuesday


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

remember, sanding will be the LOOONNNNGGGEEESSSTTTT Part of the project.


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

so have you found the duplicolor wheel paint at walmart? i want to paint my rims black, and polish the lip, but so far i havent found the wheel paint, unless its just duplicolor paint you use, and spray it on the wheels, or does the can actually say wheel paint?


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## Rama (Mar 8, 2003)

> remember, sanding will be the LOOONNNNGGGEEESSSTTTT Part of the project.


Hmm something tells me sanding will be a long part of the project.

What parts have you started sanding down? And how long is it taking you to sand?


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

So far, I'm done sanding all 4 window/lock control handles, the pieces that go around the door handles/locks, the fuse cover, the ash tray, and the rear piece (I guess it was supposed to be an ashtray). 

I'm almost done with the gauge surrounding and I still need to do the 2 front speaker panels, radio/hvac piece, and shifter surrounding.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

go4broke44 said:


> *so have you found the duplicolor wheel paint at walmart? i want to paint my rims black, and polish the lip, but so far i havent found the wheel paint, unless its just duplicolor paint you use, and spray it on the wheels, or does the can actually say wheel paint? *


 no, it's the real wheel paint. I got them at a super walmart and a few autozones. I think it only comes in white, silver and gunmetal. You have to look carefully for it, it's well hidden. At autozone, they were just about on the floor, a walmart had them near the spray glues, and another had them on a top shelf almost out of my reach (I'm 6'1").


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *So far, I'm done sanding all 4 window/lock control handles, *


Fragile pieces of crap aren't they.

Seth


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

hehe, I already had to glue a tab back on. Thank god for krazy glue.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

continued...

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=243719#post243719

Seth


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## LethalAudio (Feb 12, 2003)

Just to add some stuff to Seth's. I found that if you buy one of those plastic tubs from Wal-Mart, you can save yourself alot of grief. When I was painting my steering column, I was bringing the top piece to the house from the shop and a gnat stuck to it and I had to basically start over to get rid of it. They make the tubs quite large and if you get a long one, there shouldnt be anything you couldnt put in there. It keeps the dust off and lets it dry pretty good and it lets you keep it clean if you have to take it from one place to another. Had I bought one from the start, I could have saved alot of paint...oh well, live and learn.
Also, if you dont want to buy a tub to put it in, you can dry the paint just enough to where soemthing doenst stick to it(but dont touch it cuz it will leave an imprint) with a hair dryer.
As for taking paint off...I know plenty about it, I had to start over countless times. After sanding and sanding, I finally took my pocket knife and held my thumb across the blade and scraped the paint off. IT leaves little ridges like when you peel an apple but with minimal sanding, it smooths it out.


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## TURBO_2 (Mar 8, 2005)

*Hey I have a ? for you*

Hey man sounds to me like you are a profesional i was wondering if i could do that exact same thing that you wrote down to my 1999 dodge intrepid the reason iam asking this is because since you did it to a nissan i dont know if i could do it to the dodge intrepid since it might not be the same car and same material but if i can do it to my dodge intrepid let me know thanks i will apreciate if you write me back yea by the way is the dash board that iam talking about i mean you know painting the car inside


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## matcapir (Feb 20, 2005)

TURBO_2 said:


> Hey man sounds to me like you are a profesional i was wondering if i could do that exact same thing that you wrote down to my 1999 dodge intrepid the reason iam asking this is because since you did it to a nissan i dont know if i could do it to the dodge intrepid since it might not be the same car and same material but if i can do it to my dodge intrepid let me know thanks i will apreciate if you write me back yea by the way is the dash board that iam talking about i mean you know painting the car inside



I would say that is a run on sentence, but there was never actually a period to qualify it as a sentence.....hmmmm


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

It should work on any plastic surface.
Obviously depending on the surface depends on the paint. I used paint designed for a metal surface, but automotive paints will probably stick to anything if primed right.

Seth


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