# Caliper Bolt and pin Replacement



## Bryan200sx (Jan 23, 2003)

Ive had some recent clicking noise of what seemed to be the CV joint changed it out ( very bad condition and messed up as well). Only to find out i still had the clicking noise. I let one of my neighbors look at it and he told me to get 









I haven't even looked at how to go about this and i do have a copy of the FSM but i honestly haven't had the time to even sit at my computer at home... any one change this out before that can give me a quick crash corse? 

dosent look hard just thought i would get some input from other people

**** did search if their is another post please redirect.... thanks


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

They usually don;t go bad when they are inside a rubber boot like that, it's the ones without a rubber boost that rust/corrode over time when they are not lubed properly. 

Not the worst job in the world, can be more difficult if the pin is siezed or stuck in the caliper. I would buy the rebuild kit for both sides and just do them both at once if they are bad. Best to have the parts on hand when you pull them apart.


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## Larry200sx (Nov 17, 2004)

Hold the flat sides of the guide pin while you loosen and remove the bolt from the guide pin. That bolt holds the calipier to calipier bracket.
I think the guide pin is held in by the rubber boot. Just pull the rubber boot off one side and slide the pin out.










Don't see how the guide pin would be make that noise. but it would not hurt to replace them.


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## Bryan200sx (Jan 23, 2003)

wes said:


> They usually don;t go bad when they are inside a rubber boot like that, it's the ones without a rubber boost that rust/corrode over time when they are not lubed properly.
> 
> Not the worst job in the world, can be more difficult if the pin is siezed or stuck in the caliper. I would buy the rebuild kit for both sides and just do them both at once if they are bad. Best to have the parts on hand when you pull them apart.


I thought so 2 but apparently not... i have every thing else new on that side. CV joint, lower control arm, sway bar and sway bar endlink strut ECT..... and its all been on for over 6 months ( i had a curb incident ) thats the only thing that can be messed up i do have the kit for both sides.. one step a head of you.... well ill let you know if that was the problem....

thanks for the the replys


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## nismoweapon (Jul 18, 2002)

My front right caliper got stuck on my '99 SE-L. It caused the inner pad to wear down to the backing and severly groove the rotor with almost no warning until the metal-on-metal noise began. Since it was only the inner pad that wore down, it was the slide pins and not the piston sticking in the bore that was the culprit.

I went with AD22VF calipers off a '93 Pulsar NX2000 w/ ABS. Picked up loaded reman ones from Car Parts Warehouse in Cleveland with a pair of Brembo rotors for about $200. Super easy upgrade. I'm still using the stock rubber lines with no problems.


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## 9double8 (Jul 9, 2002)

I got a pair of AD22's from the yard and the pin is seized in it. I have to drill it out and rebuild it now.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

9double8 said:


> I got a pair of AD22's from the yard and the pin is seized in it. I have to drill it out and rebuild it now.


Don't drill it out, use a torch and heat it up, it will come out! You do not want to mar/damage the surface of the piston bore with a drill bit.


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