# Nitrous for 04 Spec V QR25!



## Ralphieboy57 (Sep 20, 2004)

Hello Everyone,
Doe's anyone out there have any info or has a nitrous fogger system for a 2004 Spec V. I wanted to go turbo but just too much involved to boost a QR25 mill. So nitrous is my choice. I have all the bolt on mods exept the BSR. If anyone knows who makes one, how big a shot they are running(without scattering the motor), wet or dry(which is safer or works best), Is a controller required and if so who makes it? Also the new talked about Sentra replacement is touted to have a factory 2.5 turboed motor. Any info on that? Is it a QR25 reworked mill or is it a totally new design. Chimike! What do you suggest? Thanks to all of you.

Ralphieboy-O.C.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

wet, of course, is the only way to go. Safest I'd say is a 50 shot.....75 is pushing it and someone who ran a 75 eventually had a massive failure.

the largest problem is the instantaneous torque created by the nitrous shot.......but otherwise, a properly jetted/installed wet 50 shot should be fine.


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## Ralphieboy57 (Sep 20, 2004)

*Thankyou!*



chimmike said:


> wet, of course, is the only way to go. Safest I'd say is a 50 shot.....75 is pushing it and someone who ran a 75 eventually had a massive failure.
> 
> the largest problem is the instantaneous torque created by the nitrous shot.......but otherwise, a properly jetted/installed wet 50 shot should be fine.


Thats what I thought. Thanks for the info. Your advise is priceless. I've learned more from this forum than from my tuner. I know this is out of context but what have you heard about the 2007 Skyline? Will it have the inline 6 or the VQ3.5. The VQ3.5 is a great motor but the Inline 6 is the whole heart and soul of the beast. I'm all ready to buy one. I'm just afraid it will end up being a factory modded Infinity G35. :cheers: 

Ralphieboy.


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## SpecVeezy (Aug 16, 2003)

75 wet shot


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## 1punchKO (May 26, 2005)

chimmike said:


> wet, of course, is the only way to go. Safest I'd say is a 50 shot.....75 is pushing it and someone who ran a 75 eventually had a massive failure.
> 
> the largest problem is the instantaneous torque created by the nitrous shot.......but otherwise, a properly jetted/installed wet 50 shot should be fine.


I beg to differ bro... wet shot kits are a main reason why nitrous has a bad name.. with puddling and lining issues wet kits aren't all that great... 
Wady from NOS (now @ nitrous supply) said it best:
take a hose and set it at the finest mist you can and spray the side of your house... no matter what, the liquid will stick to the surface... keep in mind @ WOT your fuel press is what??? 50-55psi? 
Now take a bottle of Nitrous and hit the same wall were you just sprayed the water.... 
the first thing you should notice is the fact that Nitrous is gasious (hope that's spelled right...) and rushes over the surface like compressed air.... and you figure avg bottle press is between 900-1000.....

and that's the main contributor to fried valves and rings in single fogger wet set-ups... who's gonna get to the cylinder first??? the liquid @ 55psi or the gas @ 1000psi? just because the nozzle is projected in conicle form (vs. the old school fan version) doesn't mean the atomization isn't gonna make up for the distance traveled.... and that's another issue with wet kits.. 

the way fuel is supplemented in a dry kit is the stock fuel system gets a big fuel spike making the stock injector the wet side of the equation..

now you figure you need to give the nozzle (wet or dry) 6-18 in prior to TB to not only give the nitrous time to super cool the air but to distribute through out the intake tube (even though all they do is give 70% of the nitrous to #1cyl and the other 30%- and if you think the plenum will pressurize and evenly distribute @ 7800rpm and 950ish psi....cute).. although the nitrous distribution isn't even doesn't mean the car car be jetted to correct that (dry kit).. so in a wet kit you fuel has to travel anywere from 1.5-3feet (depending on intake and plenum size) with a dry kit (using the fuel injector) that's down to 3inches.. 

The main reason people people have problems with dry kits is because they aren't properly tuned, and a major part of that can also be contributed to the fuel system existing.. Nissans with a side feed inj need to be jetted to run fatter to compensate... also there are dry kits out there that don't allow you to tune/adjust the signal to the stock FPR.. these kits don't give the installer/tuner the chance to correct the burn mixture... :cheers:


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

dry kits post-MAF can not accurately allow the ecu to provide enough extra fuel for teh chemically added air.

a dry kit at 75 shot on a QR25 WILL blow the engine, set up as you have described. it's not that easy, and for complete newbies we ALWAYS suggest wet kits.


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## 1punchKO (May 26, 2005)

chimmike said:


> dry kits post-MAF can not accurately allow the ecu to provide enough extra fuel for teh chemically added air.
> 
> 
> Hence the kit with the ability to be adjusted on the vacuum signal side.. The regulator on the NOS drykits can be shimmed as well to correct this...
> ...


I can totally see were your coming from tuning wise...wet kits are harder to install and little chancier motor wise but your right that either style isn't always that easy tune .. but in the same respect the token time needed to ask and find this out maybe a lot faster and cost effective when the motor is on the line :thumbup:


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## kenroe25 (Jul 1, 2005)

*Go turbo or go home!*

Dude you want to buy a fogger system and you said a turbo would be too much. Chimmike is one of the most knowledgeable peeps here on the forum and he recommends this kit it's only 1500 dollars, just a little more than what you're going to pay for a fogger n 2 0 set up http://www.powertechimports.com/ 
And it will give you more whp than a 50 shot!

Kenroe.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

well, the protech turbo kit is a bit more than $1500


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## Zac (Mar 10, 2004)

since it sounds like you want to go faster, lose the 18s


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## Ralphieboy57 (Sep 20, 2004)

*NOS or turbo. 18's???*



Zac said:


> since it sounds like you want to go faster, lose the 18s


Yes I definatly want to increase HP. I would Love to boost my SpecV. $1500 is definatly a type o. From the sorces I have a good turbo kit is around$3500 to $4500' un-installed. Plus I heard that due to the long stroke the QA25 has makes it dangerous to boost. How true is this statement? Also does a boost controller work with the QA25? I know I'm getting a little thick with all the questions. But I just don't want to dump alot of $$$$ into my spec V if it isn't going to work. Oh almost forgot. Do the 18" 5Zigen hypers really slow down the car that much due to the added weight?


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

Wet kit. Like CHimmike said, MAF's calculate fuel based on the air it meters. If you throw more air in after, it can run lean and dun dun dun.

Blown motor.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

Ralphieboy57 said:


> Yes I definatly want to increase HP. I would Love to boost my SpecV. $1500 is definatly a type o. From the sorces I have a good turbo kit is around$3500 to $4500' un-installed. Plus I heard that due to the long stroke the QA25 has makes it dangerous to boost. How true is this statement? Also does a boost controller work with the QA25? I know I'm getting a little thick with all the questions. But I just don't want to dump alot of $$$$ into my spec V if it isn't going to work. Oh almost forgot. Do the 18" 5Zigen hypers really slow down the car that much due to the added weight?



There are several boosted specV's running around, just not pushing alot of #'s. But yes the long stroke of the QR makes running alot of boost a problem.


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## ittamaticstatic (Nov 5, 2003)

SpecVeezy said:


> 75 wet shot


The good ol days at the track!


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