# Replacing EGR valve....DIY job?



## Guest (Jul 27, 2003)

Hello everyone, I'm new to the board. I was searching the internet to find out more info. on replacing an EGR valve when I came across this site.

I too got the same code (P0400) when I went to a local Autozone to have a diagnostics run on my car. For the part I was quoted 91.99. I asked the guy if installation was difficult, he made it sound easy. I am completely dumb when it comes to cars and I have searched this forum looking for some sort of explanation on how to replace the part.

However, upon reading I find that I am unable to understand and/or locate the valve. One post provided a pic of the valve, but I don't know where in the picture the valve is.

Anyways, what I want to know is, can a complete newb replace the valve? or should I just buy the part and have some mechanic do it? Also, that code (P0400) reads that "The pcm has determined that a malfunction exists in the exhaust gas recirculation flow." Could that be more than just the valve? 

Sorry for the long ass explanation, but I would greatly appreciate any replies!

-chris


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## Guest (Jul 28, 2003)

If you don't have an emissions test just plug that bitch up and forget about it.


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

its as simple as removing some screws. if you could point me to the thread with the pic in it i could tell you what it looks like. i just cant think of how to describe it off hand


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## Guest (Jul 28, 2003)

I have attempted to attach the pic that I found on this site, but if that doesn't work, then I have also added a link to the thread where I found it. 

Thanks for the replies, 
-chris


Heres the link to the thread: 

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21534&highlight=egr+valve


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

it's the gold looking round thing kinda in the center of the pic...below it is a rust looking thing. if that doesnt help i can make a photochop pointing it out for ya.


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## Guest (Jul 28, 2003)

ok, so following that blue cap, moving upward past the rust, that gold disc? 

-chris


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

yea


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## Guest (Jul 29, 2003)

cool, thanks alot Katana200sx. 

I'll take a look and try to find that. However, today I called around to get an idea of the cost to replace that part. All the places I called were like, "that diagnostic from autozone could mean that there is a problem anywhere in the exhaust gas recirculation flow." In other words, it may not be the valve, so it seems like i'm going to have to have another diagnostic. A mechanic was telling me all the possible areas that could be malfunctioning in that area, and it sounded like it was something I should leave to a mechanic with the right tools. I really don't trust too many mechanics....wish I was more car literate. 

Again, much thanks!
-chris


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## Guest (Aug 3, 2003)

You da man, Katana! :thumbup:


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## Centurion (Sep 5, 2002)

First check for bad hoses...lots of posts here about them rotting out and throwing codes.


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## Guest (Aug 31, 2003)

So where, relative to the engine, is that pic? Is it close to the firewall on the driver's side, or near the cooling fans on the passenger side?


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## Guest (Aug 31, 2003)

BTW, I have a '99 I30 that now sounds like a tractor/lawnmower. The dealer says the EGR valve plug has come loose. Where is this plug? They want $300+ to replace the EGR valve. I just don't trust the diagnosis.


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## Centurion (Sep 5, 2002)

Here's the EGR for a '93 GA. The TB to airbox hose is removed for clarity. If you get a code for EGR or whatever it does not necessairily mean it has to be replaced. They are quite durable and most likely it is a hose that is cracked or a part is coked up.
Put a hose on the nipple (on the top part) and suck on it with the engine at idle. It should gasp or die (a good thing). If it does then you simply have to do some investagitve work to find a bad hose or a bad transducer valve (the thing that measures back pressure and dictates the amount or exhaust to be feed via the EGR). It could also be a bad canister solenoid valve. That valve switches on, if you will, the vacuum once the correct temperature, RPM and so forth has been met as dictated by the ECM.


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## G35RacerX (Sep 16, 2003)

*Autozone for Parts? Are you nuts?*

First and always remember this...They sell the crap of the crap. They give limited lifetime warranties because they know in a week to a month the piece they sold you will be back. They are good for one thing only. Long lines in the return section.

Second, would you honestly trust a guy whose only requirement to work there is S, M, L, or XL for the shirt. Most of the folks that Grocery Store chain from Tennessee employs have never worked on a car or seen the underside of a hood until they put on the shirt.

Third, if you are asking them how to fix your car you should be asking yourself which coffin will I look best in.

Go to a real autoparts store where you find people with grease under their nails and have a passion for trying to keep a decreasing part of American history from fading away to corporate giants and fancy marketing. A good old mom and pops place where cars are in their blood.

Diagnostics from Autozone or Advanced...Please I would rather have a chimp do brain surgery on me before I let them recomend something for my car. Besides, you go into them to buy a set of brakes or a starter and the receipt is 5 pages long on what they don't cover.


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

Centurion said:


> *First check for bad hoses...lots of posts here about them rotting out and throwing codes. *


Its true, i had the same code and i couldnt pass smog. It turns out i saved $90 by buying about 40 cents of silicone hose and replaced a torn hose. Look at the EGR carefully, also, when fixed you should see an increase in gas mileage.


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