# Replace Starter solenoid or entire unit?



## guinnessmike (Dec 20, 2006)

I have a 95' SE (auto) with an intermittent starting problem. Once every 5-10 starts I just get “the click”. A few turns of the key and/or a tap on the solenoid and it fire right up. The truck has 160k miles and I am not sure if it is the orig. starter. The question is; do I just replace the solenoid for $30 or replace the whole starter for $130? I got the solenoid off without too much trouble but getting to the top bolt of the starter look damn near impossible because of the location of the exhaust pipe. I have also read stories of how difficult it is to get the damn thing out once unbolted because of the tight space. But I keep wondering if I would be wasting time and money to replace the solenoid only to have the starter die a year later??? Opinions would be appreciated. Any tips on how to get that top bolt out if I do decide to replace the whole thing?


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

If you're hearing the click then problem is most likely not the solenoid. Just replace the whole thing. I know some starters are a PITA to get off but I think if you do a search on your car you'll be able to find some info on what's the easiest way to remove it.


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## 2005 4x4 Pathfinder (Nov 2, 2009)

I would replace the whole thing and by the same logic, don't buy the cheapest one from a company with a "we only give you store credit" BS.

Buy one with the best warranty you can. I wouldn't scrimp on this part, having learned the hard way. (eventually)


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## guinnessmike (Dec 20, 2006)

Thanx for the input. I decided to just bite the bullet and get a new complete Bosch starter (no rebuild) from Rockauto.com. I found some more detailed instructions for replacing it (with some tips on how to snake it out of its terribly tight location) after searching some old posts. I will just have to tell my wife to take the kids out for a day trip so I don't teach them any new swear words!


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

guinnessmike said:


> Thanx for the input. I decided to just bite the bullet and get a new complete Bosch starter (no rebuild) from Rockauto.com. I found some more detailed instructions for replacing it (with some tips on how to snake it out of its terribly tight location) after searching some old posts. I will just have to tell my wife to take the kids out for a day trip so I don't teach them any new swear words!


Just make sure you do all your research beforehand and have all the necessary tools on hand so you can tackle the job well prepared and you'll do fine!! Good luck.....


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## TW_Pathy_97 (Oct 25, 2009)

what was the cost on a new Bosch ?


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## guinnessmike (Dec 20, 2006)

Update: Good and bad news.
The Good: Putting the new starter in was much less painful then I expected. 1 hour and the job was done. Some helpful hints: It really helps to have a 3/8” drive socket wrench with 2 extensions and a universal joint to get the 2 bolts holding the starter on. Then just slide it out toward the front of the engine, over the steering bar with it oriented so that the solenoid is straight up and it will just fit. Do not try to remove the power cable until you slide it out. Although I did read that some starters have a heat shield that would prevent it from sliding out, but if you remove the oil filter there is some room in there to get to spin it around to unbolt it (Note: removing the oil filters makes this one messy job, Nissan really dropped the ball on this one).
The Bad: After installing it still does not start every time (sigh)! About 50% of the time it lights up on the 1st try, but the rest of the time I turn the key and just hear a click from around the passengers side front of the engine (that is why I had suspected it was just the starter solenoid). Sometime I hear nothing at all. 3-6 turns of the key and it will all of a sudden fire up without a hiccup. All the accessories work (radio, headlights, etc) and the battery is at 13.4 volts. Is there a starter relay somewhere or some other parts of the starter circuit that could be failing?

P.S. TW Pathy 97 - The Bosch starter was @$128 + $8 shipping from rockauto.com


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Clean out all your ground connections - at the battery terminal and wherever it connects to on the body. I know you said all your other electricals work but the starter needs pretty much all of it. Also check and clean wire harness to the solenoid - make sure it's a healthy connection. If still no luck, check your ignition switch.


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Is the clicking noise coming from the starter area or the relay box?


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## guinnessmike (Dec 20, 2006)

The clicking is definintely coming from the starter. I had my daughter turn the key with my hand on the solenoid and I can hear and feel it moving. The ground connection from the battery to the chassis and engine look solid and the connection to the starter solenoid is tight and 100% corrosion free as well. I looked at the ignition switch. All connections look fine from the outside and since I know the solenoid it getting some juice I think I can probably rule that out. I looked at the wiring diagram and it looks like the only relay between the battery and starter is called the "interlock relay". There are relays everywhere in that engine bay but I do not see one labeled Interlock. Does anyone know hwere that might be? I checked the battery again today and it is at 12.9 volts today. It is only about 3 1/2 years old but that seems pretty low. I think I may try replacing it to see if that solves the problem???


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

If you have a second car or a friend's car, hook up some jumper cables and see if your car starts every time!!


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## guinnessmike (Dec 20, 2006)

Final Update:
I tried starting it with jumper cables attached to my car and it started flawlessly 5 times in a row, so back to the auto parts store for a new battery. I got a few more starts out of it and then click…click…sigh.
Out of desperation I tried removing the battery ground cable and used some scotch-brite to clean the inside of the battery post connector and the 2 spades terminals that attach it to the frame & engine. $0 and 10 minutes later, problem solved! It has started flawlessly for the past few weeks. It is often the easy/cheapest solution that eludes me. In my own defense, one of the 1st things I did was inspecting the cable & cleaning the battery lug. Although it looked like it had very little corrosion, (as an electrical engineer friend of mine explained) with such high current, just the smallest added resistance makes all the difference. Oh well...I am sure my battery and starter would have needed to be replaced eventually…


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