# KA24E idleing VERY BAD and overheating



## 88b12e16s (Apr 9, 2005)

I put my engine back together after taking a broken head bolt out of the block and replacing a bad water pump and I tried starting it , it did turn on after struggling with it a little and idled decently but then it started overheating quickly so I said I'll fix it tomorrow. So today I tried starting it and I had to press the gas pedal almost like a carburated car to get it started, and I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep it above 1000 rpms or it dies. It overheats very quickly, even without the thermostat. I think the radiator is good and the water pump is new, so what could be the problem? I might have messed up the timing when I removed the head, that could cause the idleing problem but what about the overheating?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

are you sure it's overheating??? You may have an air pocket in the cooling system. This does happen alot. as for the idle problem, I suggest checking the vaccums. Make sure everyone of the lines are in decent condition.


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## Jordy240 (Jul 18, 2005)

you have to prime the water pump befor installing it, just like your brakes. If you primed it their may be an air pocket from the rad or one of the lines.


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## Panda Rox Ur Face (Dec 19, 2004)

Jordy240 said:


> you have to prime the water pump befor installing it, just like your brakes. If you primed it their may be an air pocket from the rad or one of the lines.


Im with him, Air pocket!

Run your car, if you can, for a little bit and make sure the heater is on. Have the radiator cap off and wait for bubbles. OR! If you have a radiator pressurer tester, put pressure on the system and crack open the highest part of the cooling system. Example; I put about 12psi on the cooling system from the radiator cap using the pump, then I SLOWLY crack open the top radiator hose, air will come spewing out, along with some coolant. Do this until you have a smooth flow of coolant coming out! ^_^

As for the idle, CHECK THE TIMING!

Make sure you put the Distributer in correctly! If its off by even one tooth, then your motor will run like shit. Double check that and let us know.


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## ALSET (Aug 18, 2005)

ANOTHER THING TO TRY ON THE AIR POCKET THING IS TO JACK THE FRONT OF THE CAR UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN GET IT WHILE YOU ARE RUNNING IT AND ADDING COOLANT, THIS IN EFFECT MAKES THE RADIATOR FILL HOLE THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE COOLING SYSTEM SO YOU CAN BURP ANY AIR OUT OF IT.
ANOTHER LITTLE TRICK IS TO RAPIDLY SQUEEZE THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE 5 OR 6 TIMES WHILE SEALING THE FILL HOLE WITH YOU HAND DURING THE WARM UP PROCESS. I DO THIS CYCLE SEVERAL TIMES WHILE IM WAITING FOR THE THERMO TO OPEN AND HAVE HAD NO AIR POCKET ISSUES FOR MANY YEARS SINCE I LEARNED OF THIS PROCEDURE

HOPE THIS HELPS


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

I'd like to know how you prime a water pump before installing it........


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## Jordy240 (Jul 18, 2005)

*sorry, My mistake*

What I meant by that was you have to get rid of the air after installing a water pump. One of my mechanic friends refers to it as priming the water pump. I guess I wasnt very clear what I meant. Its kinda hard to prime a water pump.. Lol. Anyways, after installing it you gota make sure you get all the air out of the system, or the system will jam. If youve got a KA24DE or KA24E then their is a bleeder screw on the left side of the engine right bu the intake manifold. Its got a sticker that says, "do NOT open when hot" Its right on the front of the intake mainifold and very easily accessed. use this screw to bleed the system of all the air. Sorry for the unclear post too guys.


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## 88b12e16s (Apr 9, 2005)

O.K. I've seen that screw, so I just open it while the car is off and wait until all the air has come out? As for the timing, I have a timing light but doesn't the car have to be idleing by itself to set the timing correctly? My car won't even stay on if it isn't being pushed to around 1000 rpm's. Anyone have some ideas? Thanks for all the help so far.


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## Hydrolock (Feb 18, 2005)

88b12e16s said:


> O.K. I've seen that screw, so I just open it while the car is off and wait until all the air has come out? As for the timing, I have a timing light but doesn't the car have to be idleing by itself to set the timing correctly? My car won't even stay on if it isn't being pushed to around 1000 rpm's. Anyone have some ideas? Thanks for all the help so far.


The timing light is going to be used to set your ignition timing, what I would check first is your valve timing. You need to be sure the timing marks are lined up where they need to be. I would start with that, then test the fuel pressure out of curiousity if thats good I would check out the injectors.


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## 88b12e16s (Apr 9, 2005)

Hydrolock said:


> The timing light is going to be used to set your ignition timing, what I would check first is your valve timing. You need to be sure the timing marks are lined up where they need to be. I would start with that, then test the fuel pressure out of curiousity if thats good I would check out the injectors.


I'm very sure the valve timing is right on, I just took off the head and replaced timing chain and guides by the book. What I want to know is how to test ignition time if car doesn't want to idle.(I have to keep my foot on the gas or it dies.)


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## Hydrolock (Feb 18, 2005)

88b12e16s said:


> I'm very sure the valve timing is right on, I just took off the head and replaced timing chain and guides by the book. What I want to know is how to test ignition time if car doesn't want to idle.(I have to keep my foot on the gas or it dies.)


Well first see if you have spark on all cylinders, then see if you can run the car off some propane gas. If your idle picks up it would indicate a fuel problem, a set of noid lights may be a good idea too. You can also check the resitance of the injectors, as well as do an injector balence test if you suspect a clogged or stuck open injector. Other things, check for a vaccuum leak or a stuck open EGR valve or something dumb like that. You got good gas right?


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## dropitby (May 3, 2004)

I have a 94 XE King Cab stick. There is a screw in the center of the distributor shaft,make sure it is tight cause your timing will go wacko. My son put a new water pump in over a year ago and started using about 8/12 oz of coolent a month. I couldn't find a sign of a leak and the headgasket and oil are fine. So the only thing I could think of is my heater core.In FLA. I think I may have used it about 2 times in 11 years. So I put some Barrs leak in for a day ran it for 35 min. with the heater on. The next day the truck ran hot. I flushed the radiator out with the hose refilled with 50/50 Prestone and tested it at 260 degree boiling point.My son drove it on the interstate and I forgot to tell him to leave the heater valve open. He ran the A/C and he said it ran hot both ways (100 miles).The manual said it can be near the top line but I still think its too hot because the idle was high.Today I drained the radiator filled with distilled water drove it a little with heater on. Then I cracked the drain open let it idle and added distilled water till the liquid was pretty clear. I started revving the engine and foam came out the filler spout and after the radiator was almost empty I shut off the engine and closed the drain plug and filled with Prestone 50/50 .Then I started the engine the engine quickly went to H.I shut it off and waited a while and opened the radiator cap added another gallon of Prestone 50/50 to fill. I drove it with heater on and the engine never went past the 1/2 mark. I will try it on a highway with the heat valve one more time before going back to the A/C.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

when you put your engine "back together," how far apart did you have it? did you have the head removed? if you did, did you use a new head gasket? im thinking that you are one tooth off on your distributor as well.


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## 88b12e16s (Apr 9, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> when you put your engine "back together," how far apart did you have it? did you have the head removed? if you did, did you use a new head gasket? im thinking that you are one tooth off on your distributor as well.


I didn't use a new gasket because it was in good condition. The car now runs and feels very powerful and I fixed the timing. The problem now is that the car hesitates between 2000-3000 rpms unless you floor it. It doesnt hesitate when I give it gas in neutral. Im going to check the ecu for codes. I also still have the overheating problem. Im thinking the radiator is totally fucked. While idling it doesn't overheat, it only gets to half and stays there but within 2 minutes of driving it the temp tries to go all the way to the top even with the heater on full blast and no thermostat blocking the flow of coolant.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

check for hot and cold spots on the radiator. there will be a noticeable difference in temps if the radiator is plugged.


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