# Floods out BAD when trying to start 1.6L AUTOMATIC



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Ok, Merry Christmas everyone. All I want for Christmas is a new car. LOL

My daughters 95 200sx had trouble starting in cold wet weather Last fall, winter sometimes. I replaced the plugs last spring but the problem got worst after she went to school in the mountains and finally would not start at all this fall. I towed it home. replaced the fuel injectors and swapped ou the distributor with another I had here from a 97 Sentra (same engine 1.6L) no change, got fuel (maybe too much) and spark. 

Time for professional help after I bought a code reader and found no codes etc. I took it to the shop but they gave up on what is wrong!

I had then swap out several Mass Air Flow Sensors I have to see if that helps when they said it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. There was no change.

They did show me two "work-arounds" to get it started. These might also be a clue as to what really needs replacing to fix it for some of you with more experience. Your assistance is appreciated.

First work around to start the car; Unplug the Mass Air Sensor (That causes the computer to use default fuel ratios I believe ignoring all sensor data) and it starts, will not accelerate correctly because the mixture is too lean and not adjusted for the cold engine etc. with the MAFS unplugged but it does idle well. Plug the MAFS in after it is running and it runs/drives fine.

Second work around method: Turn on the ignition and let the fuel pump pressurize, unplug the fuel pump fuse, start the car, plug the fuel pump fuse back in before the engine dies out from depleating fuel pressure.

I am using an adaption of the second method until I get this solved. Rather than unplugging the fuel pump fuse I did a remote switch setup. The switch is mounted on the fuse box door to the left of the steering wheel column and plugs into the fuse block in place of the fuse. I added a fuse holder in the line to the switch to still provide fuse protection to the pump and pump wiring.
Turn ignition on, when fuel pump stops flip that switch to turn off power to the fuel pump. Start the car and then flip switch back to "On" to re activate the fuel pump. Runs fine. Guess it makes it theft proof to huh! LOL

My next guess is the fuel regulator. Looks like it is part of the fuel injector rail. Does anyone know if just the pressure regulator is rebuildable/replaceable or do I have to replace the entire injector rail assembly?

Suggestions welcome!

Thanks,
Pete


----------



## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

etepsnewo said:


> Ok, Merry Christmas everyone. All I want for Christmas is a new car. LOL
> 
> My daughters 95 200sx had trouble starting in cold wet weather Last fall, winter sometimes. I replaced the plugs last spring but the problem got worst after she went to school in the mountains and finally would not start at all this fall. I towed it home. replaced the fuel injectors and swapped ou the distributor with another I had here from a 97 Sentra (same engine 1.6L) no change, got fuel (maybe too much) and spark.
> 
> ...


Nissans flood easy. This usually only happens when you move the car a very short distance and then shut it off. Push the gas to the floor and keep the key turned. The ECU gets reset, and the car will start.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

To the floor and crank it. Absolutely, that worked for the first year each time it flooded but has progressively gotten worse and nothing short of the two methods mentioned above seams to work now. Wondering if my computer might be bad then. ??? I will try to run some more tests with my CAN OBD II scan tool Friday since I updated the scan tool software and the car can be started now. If never gave me reading on 3 of the tests when I tried it before I could start it earlier.

Thanks,
Pete


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Is it possible you have injector leak down causing the flooding ? and the new injectors you put in are for some reason no better than the originals?
if you pull the plugs are all 4 wet ?
check the Air temp sensor and the coolant temp sensors?
A bad sensor would explain option 1 working.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Sensor tests?*

Leak down. Yes that was my first assumption so I replaced the injectors with remanufactured ones and yes all the plugs are wet so I think it is a sensor or the computer problem. Don't think all eights injectors could be all bad. What would the chances of that ever happening be???? LOL

The air intake temp sensor was swapped out when the mass air sensor was with no change. No guaranty as to if those traded sensors are good or not because the car I took them from has not run in a while. I just bought it for parts. Is there a way to test sensors with an Ohm or digital volt meter etc? If so what reading should I get when testing them?

Also, Is the coolant temp sensor located on the intake manifold above the water pump / thermostat area? I see a sensor with it's plug straight up next to two ground screws for the injector wiring harness. Is that it?

Thanks,
Pete


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)




----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)




----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

My ga is gone so cant check on the car anymore...


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Thanks IanH,
That info you posted said the sensor is only used for diagnostics anyway so it should not affect it starting even if it was bad. I check both sensors from both cars anyway and they both look good.

I was going to swap the computers from my 96 200sx and /or my 97 Sentra but the 95 has California emissions and I am not sure if the computers are compatible and I don't want to screw anything else up so I am going to take it to Nissan and see what they come up with.

If you don't hear back from me in two days send in a search and rescue team. I am going in alone and unarmed. LOL


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

etepsnewo said:


> My daughters 95 200sx had trouble starting in cold wet weather Last fall, winter sometimes. Pete


I have lived with this problem for 6 plus years. My daughter drove it for 5 years and now my son drives it. I have NO answer for you on this. 

The car drove for 2 years with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up so I could monitor for leak down....not the problem. I have cleaned and then changed the injectors...not the problem. 

My best solution is to unplug the injectors and crank with the gas pedal to the floor. After the engine tries to fire off and you crank for another 20 or so seconds, plug the injectors back in and the engine should fire and run fine.

This will happen about every 6 months. Last week I came up with the idea of a dash mounted normally closed push button switch in the wire that enables the fuel injection so my son could get under way without getting under the hood of the car. I read your idea and thought wow that is familiar!

Flooring the car while cranking does not always work. Disabling the injectors always works. 

Face it, Nissan screwed up when they designed the FI on these cars. This is a very common problem for these cars. About the only complaint I have about the car except....Caster adjustment and air bags busting the windshield.

John


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*unplug the injectors*

I will try that.

I am taking it to Nissan tomorrow to see what they say. I had never heard of this problem with these cars before but then again I did not have the trouble so I was not looking for posts about it either.

Both my son and daughter are driving 95 200sx s. His is a 5 speed and he has had it for 7 years. Hers automatic and we have had it for 5 years. This is the first time we have had this problem and it is just with hers. Sounds like something is wrong somewhere. I will post what they come up with for others to consider. Just hope they have a clue and don't just feed me BS.

They told me last time I took it in to them that it was the speedometer head that needed replacing when it was only the speed sensor. I did not believe them and diagnosed the speed sensor trouble myself fixing the problem.


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

etepsnewo said:


> I will try that.
> 
> I am taking it to Nissan tomorrow to see what they say.


I have done quite a bit of reading on forums about this and there was talk of a different engine computer that had the updated programming that addressed this flooding issue. I have no proof this is true or just rumor. Last year I purchased a identical car in black instead of white to repair a rather nasty deer strike. I have lots of the parts from the severly T-boned parts car. I mixed up the parts when I reassemble the white car and still it floods on occasion.

There are plenty of posts about this flooding issue. 

Good luck with the dealer visit. Please post up the results.

John


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

etepsnewo said:


> Thanks IanH,
> That info you posted said the sensor is only used for diagnostics anyway so it should not affect it starting even if it was bad. I check both sensors from both cars anyway and they both look good.
> 
> If you don't hear back from me in two days send in a search and rescue team. I am going in alone and unarmed. LOL


the info is for diagnosing the trouble code, I think it is used for the mixture as people have reported issues with the Air temp sensor when installing a CAI or WAI.
Both out B14's only did this once or twice in 11 + years from new, and the cause was always a cold start and short move then shutdown.
Yes i think there is something wrong, and I suspect if you find it other will be able to use the info to check and fix their issues.
Hope you make it back from the stealership OK !!!


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Did not get a good feeling at the dealer ship today, my regular service advisor was out sick so they gave me another "possible clueless paper pusher". Then I screwed up and pulled the bumper cover loose by unhooking may tow bar in the wrong order because I was in a hurry. That will teach me! I don't think fixing it will be a big deal, Just looks like I pulled the clips out of each fender where the bumper attaches near the wheel wells. Service advisor got all excited wanting to write it up to have the body shop reinstall the bumper skin fixing the damage. Couple hundred dollars at their rates I bet. LOL, Dream on Sparky! No big deal so no thanks, I work pretty darn cheap for myself. Told him to just do the diagnostics and I will fix the bumper later.

Said they might get to the diagnostics today, maybe tomorrow.
I am bent over braced and ready! LOL

More later!


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*I made it out alive!*

Well, that turned out to be much better than I thought. The best part is that I could have never found the problem myself so that makes it well worth it. Noting worse than taking it in to find it was something I messed up or should have found.

The Nissan service department called me to say the car is now road worthy again. Not too bad. They trimmed some of the time for me and I am only $229 poorer now and the car starts and runs again.

So what did they find? A bad wire connection in the wiring harness to the Mass Air Flow Sensor! They took it apart cleaned it up and re-soldered it. It starts fine now and the idle is only set to 650 RPMs too.

They also did a mini tune-up, checked and/or adjusted a few things. They recommend a new Mass Air Flow Sensor to give the engine its pep back but I had to decline for now. Nissan's MAFS is almost $700. Might try switching out the ones I have again or going aftermarket.

I am going to leave the fuel pump switch in place for now just in case.

If I can see where they did the repair to the harness I will let you guys know.

So, lets see:
Trailer and gas to go get the car 200 miles away, $100, Injectors $170, New Battery $75, Other shops time $75, Nissan $229 = $649 this month. All due to a bad wire in a wiring harness. Right at Christmas too! No wonder I am broke! Cars, just gotta love em! Still beats walking.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

good news !!!
where are you located ?
I wonder if you could find that by checking the MAF voltage at idle ( once it was running.)
I also wonder why it didn't throw a code.?
It is possible that once it failed completely it did, and the light was not on yet, as hadn't repeated to set the CEL.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Good news*

I am in Central North Carolina, Raleigh area.

I don't know about checking it for voltage etc.
That is the thing about going to a dealer. They usually don't make it easy to talk to the technician directly. Just the service adviser. Most don't know, or want, to tell you more than absolutely necessary.

I started the car using method 2 and let it run in neutral since I was towing this automatic with all the wheels on the ground. While i was starting it, took a while while playing with the fuel pump switch I did get a Check Engine Light that stated on on entire trip there. They did say they got a code about the MAFS wire. Not sure it it was just the MAFS or specifically the wire. I would think the technician knew how to determine the difference with the same code. ???

I just fixed the damage I did to the bumper cover this morning. Took a bit longer to fix it than I was expecting. When I pulled the bumper cover loose from the bottom while unhooking from the tow bar it bent the fog light brackets forward too so I had to take them off and straighten them back. Also the clips at the fenders stretched the fender flanges down before they let go. A large "C" clamp worked wonders to flatten and press the flanges back into line. That also repaired the square clip holes at the same time. The car had been wrecked and fixed long ago and the left turn signal was always crooked and loose. I was able to fix that a little better too! There is the silver lining!

My daughter and I just went to the gas station and I filled it up and I checked all the fluids. When we got home she asked if it is drivable now, I said yes and she grabbed her keys and said "thanks, see ya later" LOL
Free at last! She loves that car . . . and she is off in a blaze of dust and glory!

OK, so back out to the garage to get back to work on my other 200 sx project car. Man, I am glutting for punishment!


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*I think it is fixed now!*

Went ahead and bought a reconditioned Mass Air Flow Sensor and put it in.
(Reconditioned was $199 verses Nissan's $689 for new.)

Wa La! The Nissan Tech was correct! It is running right again.
Cleared the P0170 code and freeze data from the computer and took it for a drive.
Runs and starts great now! No codes coming up either. Maybe we are set now?

So the trouble was multi level. The Mass Air Flow Sensor AND the connector on the sensor's wiring harness needed to be replaced too.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Went ahead and bought a reconditioned Mass Air Flow Sensor and put it in.
(Reconditioned was $199 verses Nissan's $689 for new.)

Wa La! The Nissan Tech was correct! It is running right again.
Cleared the P0170 code and freeze data from the computer and took it for a drive.
Runs and starts great now! No codes coming up either. Maybe we are set now?

So the trouble was multi level. The Mass Air Flow Sensor AND the connector on the sensor's wiring harness needed to be replaced too.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

It's fixed I think,
Went ahead and bought a reconditioned Mass Air Flow Sensor and put it in.
(Reconditioned was $199 verses Nissan's $689 for new.)

Wa La! The Nissan Tech was correct! It is running right again.
Cleared the P0170 code and freeze data from the computer and took it for a drive.
Runs and starts great now! No codes coming up either. Maybe we are set now?

So the trouble was multi level. The Mass Air Flow Sensor AND the connector on the sensor's wiring harness needed to be replaced too.


----------



## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

etepsnewo said:


> It's fixed I think,
> Went ahead and bought a reconditioned Mass Air Flow Sensor and put it in.
> (Reconditioned was $199 verses Nissan's $689 for new.)
> 
> ...


due to the damage of the car? Glad you got it running.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*To good to be true . . .*

I replaced the Air Flow sensor with a re manufactured unit.
Car ran great with no codes yesterday afternoon.

Cool and rainy this morning and its back to its old ornery self. Flooded at start up again. She got it started using the fuel pump switch and then restarts after she drove it where fine. Looks like there is more to it than just plug and play or something else is wrong. Would be nice to know what else needs to be replaced or adjusted.

I think I saw somewhere that the ECU may need recalibration when you change the Mass Air Flow Sensor????


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

etepsnewo said:


> Flooded at start up again.


So sorry to hear that. These things sure are touchy. Glad you have her trained on the "procedure". Just keep a good battery in it.

John


----------



## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Hey guy's I have been chasing similar demons with my 96 auto sentra and this problem which I thought I had figured out unfortunately is still not quite correct. I have a similar hard start issue that seems to flood and then takes a while to get running and a whole lot of cranking (my poor starter) It does seem like the colder it gets the worse the problem becomes. I have zero CEL's and I am also leaning toward a new computer! I have been messing with this car for quite a while and know it intimately now. Today I found something very interesting I popped the hood while the car was running and completely up to temp. and the idle was going up and down (new symptom) so I was fooling with the connections to see if I could make something happen when I accidentally pulled the solenoid that bypasses the throttle Body and all of a sudden the idle was fine? This engine was hot and the fans were cycling. Isn't that device for cold start only? What triggers this besides the new coolant temp. sensor? I have never been so darn frustrated with a car! It has to be a computer issue or a shorting wire?? Any ideas Guy's??


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

schoust said:


> I have a similar hard start issue that seems to flood and then takes a while to get running and a whole lot of cranking (my poor starter)


How often is this happening? Mine only happens several times a year.

John


----------



## schoust (May 27, 2008)

It happens quite a bit and more often when cold out. I think the issue is computer related because the engine and trans are 38k combo. The strange thing is now the idle is all over the place and I found the bypass solinoid to be on even though the engine was up to temp???? This never happened before??


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

My understanding from this forum is that sporadic idle rev is caused by the "Idle Air Control Valve" (SENTRA 200SX and sedan B14 95 96 1.6L)

I think this is an additional issue for you. My daughter's car with the flooding issues does not have this problem but my Son's 95 200sx 1.6L with 5 speed does and his car does not have the flooding issues. I have not had time to address it yet on his. In fact I don;t even know where it is on the engine. His being a straight drive it is not as critical as with an automatic, I would guess. His revs up and down from normal idle to 1500 RPM and back intermittently when he is stopped with the clutch in like at a stop or stop sign.


----------



## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Well I can say without a doubt that my idle air control is working it's being told to actuate by the computer to correct a condition that is not right. I have been messing around with this issue just recently but i will say that there are other things like cold start and flooding that also concern me. I have the manual and a SnapOn scan tool and I have yet to get any CEL's?? I am leaning very hard towards the computer. Now i need to find one that is cheap....


----------



## earthenperson (Feb 24, 2009)

*Floods on cold startup*

My 1998 1.6 Standard Sentra started flooding in early Jan 2009. Fuel pump is putting out 60+ PSI, changed FP Regulator and plugs. No help. Unplugged coolant temp sensor on left side of engine where fuel comes in and I can get the car to start and run ok. Also pulling the FP breaker allows the car to start. No codes and the dealer doesnt know whats wrong - but they will take my $ 105 + tx to do a diagnostic. 

I will take a close look at the MAF connector and wiring this weekend- or was it just the MAF that fixed the flooding problem? If it was wiring- do you know where abouts on the harness they did repairs? At the MAF connector (did they replace it?)-6' before the MAF Connector, 12" etc? 

This has been a real challenge- but with tight $ and me being somewhat of a mechanic and with much patience, I'll get to the bottom of this Flooding issue.

Thanks for any and all help.


----------



## schoust (May 27, 2008)

Good luck I have been playing with this for some time and I have heard from certain people that Nisson engineers decided that they were going to play with the ring arangment on the pistons in this engine of these vintage and I was told this was not a good thing to do???


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

Just to update this old thread........ Last week the 95 200sx with 1600cc & auto flooded again. My son drives this regularly. He pulled the wire connectors from the injectors and cranked a while. Then he reconnected the injectors and the car started and ran as usual.

It had been about a year since the last time we experienced this. On thing that I have figured out (and he always does) is that when you crank start the engine, DO NOT stop cranking the engine as soon as it fires off! Crank it for another second to make sure it continues to run smoothly. I know it is difficult to get into this habit but it seems to head off this issue.

I drove the car yesterday on a 110 mile round trip and I must admit, it is still a decent little car. This after my daughter killed a deer with it and left it in the road with the engine running while the radiator was wrapped around the front of the engine block. I reringed it and lapped the valves, replaced the air bags and windshield and fixed the body damage----all at home. 

Then the rear end action that pushed it into the trailer in front of him. Fixed this damage and painted the whole car---at home.

Somewhere along the way the axle was bent and I straightened at home.

Currently: 177,000 miles


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

OK, Awesome job on those repairs !
I thought I had done a lot to keep my kids driving their 200sx s until I saw your pics here. Nice job on the body work ! . . . and everything else.

Now I am doing repairs for me instead of my kids. My son moved to Texas a few years ago with his 1995 200 SX SE and last year he retired it from his primary transportation to a secondary position. It's now a backup car after he purchased a ten year old Prelude. He says he is going to sell it soon. I will believe that when I see it. He has been driving it since he was 17. That's been over 10 years now. It has about the same mileage as yours but other than his step father backed into it in the driveway the first year he had it ( it was professionally fixed) its never been wrecked. If I was closer to Texas I would consider buying it from him. 

Then again I already have three here to work on. LOL My daughter's 1995 200SX SE is a sister car to his, same color and trim. With the exception of being an automatic instead of a 5 speed they are identical. Her car led a rough life in LA area. I bought it on eBay and had it shipped to us here in NC only to find the odometer was broken and the actual miles where far greater that the 41K as advertised. They refunded most of my money and I fixed the things it needed and taught her how to drive in it. It became "her" car when she turned 16. Just before Christmas she was struck in the right rear fender while leaving the parking lot at her work by a girl backing out of a parking spot. This makes the fifth time the car has been hit since we got the car in 2004 and the last good panel left, LOL, so she opted for the insurance money to go towards a "newer" car instead of having the repairs made. I gave her the check from the girls insurance company and she returned the car to me since its still in my name. So that one is here waiting for attention. 

I had bought another 200 SX SE off eBay as a project car a number of years ago. Typical oil leaks and its been wrecked in the front end and poorly fixed. After fixing all the oil leaks etc I was looking for front end parts. Found a 97 Sentra and bought it for parts only to discover it makes more sense to fix it because this Sentra's body is in really good shape. Left it on the lift in the garage for a few years never knowing if or when I would need it for my daughter. 

So now she bought another car so I and finishing the 97 Sentra with the 96's engine I have already worked through. I still have the 96 200sx project car that I might use the main body with my daughter's 95 to get at least one good car out of the two of them. Her's still runs fine and the 96's main body is in good shape. Will need to swap drive chains, interiors, wheels and front end with her's.

A few pics of the cars mentioned:
Twins + 2 - a set on Flickr

Take care !


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Can't believe I never updated the end results here. My previous post said the dealer re soldered the wire connections that was bad for the mass air flow sensor and all was now fine. Well, as it turns out that was not the trouble at all and as soon as the temps dropped again it was back to flooding and we started using the switch I installed to turn off the fuel pump while cranking the car. My daughter has been starting the car this way ever since Dec of 2008. (Till Dec 2011 )

The car was backed into a few months ago (again, fifth time) and she decided to use the insurance money from the claim towards another "newer" car so I now have the car back to tinker with again.


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

Thanks for the update and the complement. I sure like having a lift at home. takes a lot of pain out of lots of auto repair work.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Yep, worth every penny . . .*

Absolutely! The money I spent on my lift was well worth every penny . . . and a lot more. Its a four post storage/service lift. Its great but I do realize that a two post lift would have some advantages especially when re installing the engine and transmission from under the car as one unit. The engine trans just barley clears between my lift's ramps so I have to lineup everything just right.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Flooding! Been years and still having the same problem*

Well finally started driving the car again. It sat at my sister's place for 8 months and started right up without even using jumper cables. Wow! I decided to go ahead and have it inspected to renew the tags thinking they would flunk it for some expensive reason and I would then scrape the car for a little cash at the salvage yard. They did flunk it but only for two tires and a broken rear taillight so I swapped those items with my parts car and was back for my sticker in about 30 minutes.

Drove it a few days until I realized the tire issues where from the front suspension issues. Ball joints where SHOT ! Ordered new lower control arms complete with ball joints and bushings and swapped those out last week. At $55 each from Amazon that was easy! Went ahead and bought cam bolts too just in case they need to adjust that camber a bit more when aligning. Only $26 from Amazon too. Haven't had it aligned yet but it is driving really good.

OK, starting is kind of a pain when its cold. Flooding issue still here so I am back to the Fuel Regulator as the main suspect again. Anyone know what the pressure regulator pressure should be with and without vacuum and where the pressure gauge should be when doing the test? High side of the regulator or the low side? I have seen pressures listed from 36 to 43 but not sure which one is for no vacuum and which is for with vacuum. Going to the auto parts store to see if they have a fuel system pressure tester I can borrow.

If the pressure regulator tests out OK, other than a low engine compression, I can't think of what else to check.

Pete


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The fuel pressure tester is tee'd in at the output side of the fuel filter; high side of the FPR. The readings at idle:
- Vacuum hose connected: 34 psi
- Vacuum hose disconnected: 43 psi

The flooding could also be due to leaking fuel injectors.


----------



## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

Just wanted to say, etepsnewo, that your amazing photo documentation of your work on 'the twins' was a real pleasure to look at! Definitely spent a lot more time on flickr than I ever have before.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Thanks Wilburk,
I do enjoy taking photos. Mostly so I know exactly where everything goes back together since its often months or maybe even years before i put them back together. Down side of too many hobbies! I like to post the pics for others to see whats what before taking theirs apart too. I find that always helps. The repair manuals do have pics but those pics are often too zoomed in to give the viewer a good reference as to what and where they are looking.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

The story continues. LOL Well I just can't bring myself to junk this little car. Its like part of the family and fun to drive and really good on gas. A far as the flooding issue I recently had the Alternator, battery and starter test done at Advance Auto after the tech. at the inspection station suggested I may have a weak battery. The car does crank really slow. The test showed that the battery was actually much stronger than spec and the alternator was good BUT . . the starter failed the test. Said its drawing less than 1 amp. I pulled one off my spare engine and they bench tested it as GOOD so I installed it and guess they where right, it cranks up like a champ ! Hope that fixed it for now at least. It is summer and the problem did seem to be much worse in the fall and winter. Will have to see come cooler weather. Fingers crossed.


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

*Flooding! Been years and still having the same problem*

Yes, my 200sx did it to me 3 weeks ago. 85*F outside, First start of the day. Car had been sitting in a garage for 2 days. I held the key over in the crank position for 1/2 a second longer than necessary AFTER it fires off and seems to run normally.


I do this EVERY time I start the darn thing. 


It died immediately and would not restart. Pulled the injector plugs and cranked a while. Put the plugs back on and it would not catch and run. Pulled the spark plugs and cranked a while. Put the plugs in and would not run on its own.

Son later pulled the Fuel pump fuse, cranked a while, put the Fuel pump fuse back in and it started and ran fine.

:wtf:

great little car.....most of the time.

John


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

Yes, I FEEL OUR PAIN as they say. You might want to have the battery and starter motor checked at the auto parts store or garage too then like I mentioned above in my last post. Also, I put that normally closed push button switch in the fuse box door with an in line fuse holder and plugged it in in place of the fuel pump fuse. That lets me momentarily disconnected power to the fuel pump while cranking the engine to clear out the excess fuel. It also lets you starve the engine of fuel a bit when doing the first start of the day avoiding the flooding condition. Just a thought. 

Have to say I was really surprised that starter motors die slowly like that. I always thought they either worked or they didn't work at all.


----------



## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

I know this is an old post but this story does still continue so here is an update. It was not long after that last post that the car flooded again, and again, and again so I bought a reconditioned Mass Air Flow sensor for about $275. It did make the car a bit more responsive after it was running but did absolutely nothing to stop the flooding at start up. Basically this proved the stealership did little and I found out later they didn't even set the timing properly. My daughter continued to drive the car for another four years using the fuel pump cut out switch I had installed in the fuse box cover to start the car when it flooded. She called it an anti-theft feature. In the fall of 2012 the car was hit in the right rear quarter panel in a parking lot mishap and we collected about $1400 for the damage. This was about the sixth bump up the car has been in and due to other mechanical issues needing money and attention my daughter decided to use that money as a down payment and buy a "Newer" car. Since the car was in my name all along she returned the 200SX to me. I had it parked for 8 months and finally decided to try to jump start it, tow it, etc to take it to the salvage yard rather than renewing the expiring tag. Surprisingly it started right up without even hooking the jump box to it. After rocking the car to get the rear brake shoes unrusted from the rear drums I drove it about 40 miles around town and decided to try to get it inspected knowing surely it would prove to be destined for the scrap yard for sure. Again it surprised me almost passing inspection. They said the taped-up broken tail light would need replacing and two worn out tires replaced too. I drove home and swapped those items from my parts car and went back to finalize the inspection. That was over 2 1/2 years ago and this car has become my daily driver and has turned into a hobby keeping it going. I am slowly replacing the worn out suspension and other parts, some used from my parts cars and some new. I also pulled most of the caved in fender back out. The flooding problem has never really been solved. After setting the timing correctly, it was 6 degrees off, and replacing a weak starter motor the occurrences of flooding have greatly been reduced. I now have a check engine light on and the car is really sluggish until it warms up but the car is still a lot of fun to drive and still great on gas ( almost 40 MPH highway even with AC on in the summer ) so I will likely try to keep it on the road as long as I can.


----------



## Mr200 (Oct 21, 2007)

Thanks for the update. Our 95 is still going strong and will still unexpectedly flood. My son usually does not even bother to mention it anymore. Car has stayed dent free for a few years now. Runs great and excellent MPG. A/C is due for a recharge, that is the only maintenance on the radar currently. 

Tires on the rear are due replacement from cracking of the rubber. Alignment is holding well and no unusual tire wear. 

In other news, in August of 2013 I finished a big engine swap project. Bought a totaled 2012 Scion tC with 6,800 miles on it and put the 2.5L engine, 6 speed transaxle, electronics and most emissions equipment into my DD 1986 Toyota MR2. This was quite the undertaking. Nothing bolted up or plugged in. Only one other like this is known. Everything but the axle shortening was done here at home by me.

It has been a blast to drive with mid engine HP about twice what it came with. On May 30th 2014 I got T-boned in it. :crying: My dash cam rolling, shows a 17YO in a Camry drive through a stop sign. Insurance won't give me squat for it. I replaced a bunch of rear suspension parts and JUST barely got it aligned. I am still driving it but is sure don't look very pretty. After 7 months of Physical Therapy my neck is still not right. I am in NO hurry to settle with Allstate.


----------

