# 1997 pathfinder Exhaust manifold removal - HOW TOO



## onearmfight (May 15, 2006)

Just changed the exuast manifold of the passenger side of my 1997 pathfinder klondike (SE).

Your gonna need a day to get this done for the shadetree mechanic. I will tell exact steps i took. Keep in mind u will have to get under the truck but u dont have to jack it up until ltr, u can use ramps but it will make it difficult to get to the manifold from the top of the engine.

1.two days before u plan on doing it, soak the manifold bolts in PB Blaster, very important step! To do this u will have to remove the manifold heat sheild, just take off the bolts with a 10mm socket, 4 in total, take about an hour. Spray these bolts with a little PB Blaster to make things easier. quick tip, remove ur battery for easier access. I had to drive the car shortly after doing this, doesnt hurt it just be prepared for smoke from the PB BLaster. WD 40 will owrk also, but it is not as good as PB Blaster, go buy a can of it, trust me.

2. The day ur going to do it, spray the bolts down again, preferably the night before to let it soak in. U can remove the heat sheild from the engine compartment, remove the battery and there is a small clip that is attached to the alternator, remove the wiring that runs up to the positive battery termainal off this clip and simply bend it back out off the way. This is a pain in the ass to get out, but im here to tell ya it can me done, just watch all AC hoses. Getting this out will save u an increadable amount of aggrivation.

3. I used a 14mm socket with a standard size socket wrench, the secret is to find something to give u leverage. i used an old pipe i had, and as stupid as it sounds, from a alluminum broom handle, fit perfectly over the handle of the socket wrench. with this in mind, be very gental, VERY VERY GENTAL! apply pressure to loosen, (left), doesnt crack/loosen hold back and try again with a little more. Be very carefull on this step cuase if ur not u can break the bolt in the manifold and then ur in real trouble.

After u have "cracked" all the bolts loose, ur laughin

Quick TIP

Now for the fun part, u cant take the manifold out though the top of the engine due to it being attached to the cat converter. Dont even try to get the heat sheild off the cat, its much easier to pull the whole assembly, cat and manifold through the bottom of the truck.

4. u will find that there is a small pipe leading from the cat to the flex hose, u will need to remove this. again spray the bolts down with PB Blaster and let it sit for a good while. i beleive it was a 15mm socket and agian i used my leverage pipe and took it very easy as to not break the bolts, mine were very rusted but they did come loose. U will find a O2 sensor on this pipe, u can remove it but u dont have too, just be carefull with it, expensive replace. once u have all the bolts off, take the pipe off the cat, and off the flex hose flange, and move it out of the way.

5. Its easier if u have a freind to help u guide the manifold from the top as use pull it though the bottom of the truck.

And there ya go, if u got this far, u can figure the rest out. 

Good luck and remember, take ur time, u dont wanna break any bolts, be patient and gental, very important!

Myles

BTW please exuse any spelling or typing errors.


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## coolnesss (Dec 23, 2003)

Hey
THANKS for the how-to
I think I've got the same problem - it started with a lame exhaust sound coming from the engine compartment when started cold - as the engine warmed up, it went away. 
A few hunded miles later, its getting louder - which to me makes sense if the crack is opening up.
Are these the symptoms you noticed at first?
THANKS


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## radex7 (Mar 20, 2006)

Good one, thanks. How did you disconnect the oxygen sensor?


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## radex7 (Mar 20, 2006)

Well, since I am working on it - I might as well share some experiences. To get rid of the O2 sensor I picked up a socket from Harbor Freight for $4.00. The manifold Dorman $53.00 from Kragen: careful with this one - needs an O2 bung to be welded on or some other miracle (I haven't come up with that one yet), shape of the manifold will prevent from using a socket/torque wrench on a middle lower nut - had to tackle it with a box wrench from underneath (pain...) and finally heat shield needs to be notched for the oxygen sensor to fit.


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