# Electrical issue - stalls while driving - NOT the alternator!



## Hrtstr (Jun 2, 2010)

Ok, so this is a bit complicated, but I would REALLY appreciate any help you could throw my way!
I have a 98 Maxima, which has been a great car up till now. Then about 3 months ago, it went dead at a gas station, with no warning, and I couldn't start it for the life of me. Everyone who looked at it said it was probably the alternator. Took it to the shop, (a place my family has been going for years, so I thought they were quite trustworthy,) and for some reason they replaced the starter. Next day, drove fine in the morning, in the evening went dead again. Took it back to the shop, they replaced the alternator. (For free, thank goodness.) When I got it back, it drove fine, but something had happened to the AC circuit board, it wouldnt turn off and the fan levels kept rotating like it was having a seizure. Air blows cold, though. Decided not to worry about it, since I certainly wasn't taking it back to this mechanic, and I was moving soon. 
Drove fine for a few more weeks, then I went out of town for 2 months and it sat in the driveway. Hop forward to last week, I came back into town and proceeded to drive my car on an 1800 mile roadtrip. She performed like a champ the whole way. 
Two days later, I drove about 4 miles, and halfway through the Brake Light and the Battery Light came on, but it drove just fine. Took it to a carparts store, they said the battery was only running at 70% capacity. Tonight I went another 4 miles, and both lights came on, then a few minutes later the Airbag Light, then the clock lights dimmed, and then the car promptly died.
Ive read around and know that the Brake and Battery light are supposed to indicate a faulty alternator, but I just fail to believe that is the problem in this case. Could it just be the battery? Might it be the serpentine belt? Is that something I could replace myself? Please help!


----------



## 4thGenTinkerer (Nov 1, 2009)

Sounds like you are experiencing reduced overall voltage. I would test the alternator with a volt ohm meter. Start the car and apply the red test probe to the positive side of the battery harness and the black to the negative side battery harness. You want to check the voltage being produced from the alternator. You need to touch the probes to the connectors that are on the posts of your battery. NOT the posts themselves. It should be no more than 14volts and no lower than 13.5volts. If you turn the car off you can test the battery's voltage as well. It should be right at or slightly more than 12volts. You mentioned that both the alternator and the starter have been replaced, in my opinion i think you might have a loose connection between youre battery/starter/alternator. I had a simular experence in my 96GLE, the nut that holds the battery cable on the alternator was loose. This caused an my MIL, battery, ABS, lights all to illuminate. I checked all my main connections, found the loose nut, tightened said nut, and all was well. If you have a trusted mechanic or shop have them test your alternator and check all your connection between the parts you had replaced. Good luck, hope this helps.


----------



## KM4WD (Jun 5, 2010)

I want to add, that in reading your problem I would say its not "directly" alternator related. IF the battery is not properly charging then it is either like 4thGenTinkerer says above about a loose connection at the alternator or somewhere else, OR I was thinking something else. If you'll recall the belt on the alternator is also connected to the air conditioning compressor AND the idler pulley. Either one of these pullies could go bad and cause the belt to slip. The idler pulley could just be spinning around loosely and not applying tension causing to belt to slip. This could happen also with the pulley on the compressor. In another words the compressor could be good but the pulley is loose. The only way to check is to take the belt off and manually turn the idler and compressor pullies. If this is it then buy a new idler pulley or if the compressor a new pulley can be applied WITHOUT buying a new $400 compressor. If this isn't it then its something more electrically related like the above post suggests. Hope this helps.


----------

