# Loss of power at start



## Mickoes (Apr 29, 2009)

Hello everyone,

I have a nasty problem with my 93' Altima GXE and I really don't know what is going on. I can't really reproduce this problem since it's pretty random and I cannot identify any pattern behind it.

Once a week or once every two week, I start my car and when I try to accelerate I have no power at all. Even if I press the accelerator very deeply, the car just won't have any power and run at 1,200, 1,500 RPM going very slow and drop to 600 700 RPM as soon as I release the accelerator. After approximately 15 mins, my car will gain power and run like a brand new car going out of the factory. Also, if I can reach the 3 000 RPM mark and press the accelerator very hard, my car will switch to the second gear (automatic gearbox) and gain power exponentially.

When I'm idling, the engine runs without problem. However, my reverse gear is whether stalling my car or reving at 500 rpm unless I hit the accelerator.

I have replaced the transmission oil six month ago and just did my engine oil change. All my fluids are full and clean. It's like running on a water-gas mixture, I can even hear my engine complaining by producing a sound that s strangely similar to a good ol' boat engine idling. I have this problem since a few months now. If I had a little bit of water in my gas tank, would something similar happen?

Thank you for your help!


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## altimanum1 (Jun 19, 2009)

*RE:*

I GOT A 00 ALTIMA WITH THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN YOU FIND OUT THE PROBLEM LET ME KNOW.


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## rains76 (Jul 28, 2009)

Hey, I have a 94 Altima and I was having all kinds of problems. 

First, no power. It would hesitate and spit and sputter on accel. Then it got worse. Come to find out I had no spark in the #1 cylinder. None what soever. 

So I put new wires on all 4 and even the coil. I replaced the rotor and cap. FOund oil in the bottom of the cap. It seems to be coming from the valve cover. So i cleaned it all out with brake cleaner. It cleaned up really nicely. Now I should be able to see where it's leaking.

Anyways, I got my spark back right? But the engine was still idling rough and no power. Come to find out the #1 fuel injector had quit working. So I replaced it. It cost me $54.

Engine is running fine. I even ran a compression check on each cylinder. They all ran up to 200 pds. 

I still have the knock sound every so often. I think its that timing chain guard.

To test your fuel injector take a long screwdriver and place it on it. Then put your ear to the injector. You will hear a fast clicking sound if the injector is working. If you hear no click.. than its not working. Check all four. 

If you want to remove the injector its easy. Engine off, pull the fuel pump fuse by the battery.. then start the car. The car will either run for a short time or not start at all. This drains the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Now, leave the engine off and remove the injector by removing the two screws holding the injector cover in. Wiggle and pull the injector out. It might be hell to get out like mine was. Once out, replace it. 

See how that does...


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## rains76 (Jul 28, 2009)

This solved all my engine problems


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## Mickoes (Apr 29, 2009)

I also have a knocking sound when I start/stop the car. I'm having that power loss problem more and more often, big thanks for your reply.

I'll test the fuel injectors and let you guys know if that was my problem.


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## Mickoes (Apr 29, 2009)

Mickoes said:


> I also have a knocking sound when I start/stop the car. I'm having that power loss problem more and more often, big thanks for your reply.
> 
> I'll test the fuel injectors and let you guys know if that was my problem.


Hello there,

An update, my injectors seem to be working fine. I could her the ticking sound with a screwdriver and I even tested the resistance of each of them (Around 11-12 ohm per injectors, OK according to my repair manual). Still, I don't know if it's necessary to purchase an injector test light now...

Anyhow, I noticed that when my car is going back to normal, my headlights tend to lose power a llittle bit, a few times, like if something taking energy from the battery is starting. That could be the normal engine operation though, I just never noticed that before (maybe because I was driving).

Still, I'm verry happy because those damn injectors are very pricy. According to my Nissan dealership and Canadian Tires, they need the whole seal kit to change one injector because they must remove the fuel rail and so on (that's 220$CAD + labor!).

I will be sending my car to the garage soon, so they can perform some tests on my engine. I'm pretty tired to start my car and stall when I change it to reverse or when I don't go too fast for my engine to run at 1000RPM.

So guys, is there more tests I can do before sending my car to the garage?

Thank you!


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## Mickoes (Apr 29, 2009)

Hey guys!

UPDATE: I'm starting to stall at red lights because my RPM indicator goes from 1000 RPM to <500 rpm back and forth. I have noticed that this problem vanishes as soon as I reach my normal engine operating temperature. In short, I only have that problem when the engine is cold.

A few other things aren't working quite well when I'm losing power, my power brakes don't have power at all, my auto transmission cannot go on overdrive and sometimes isn't shifting well, and my car won't sometimes start unless I put the shifter to neutral and back to park. I asked my mechanic and he told me that when the engine isn't operating properly it is normal that the power brakes do the same (vacuum).

The funniest part is that as soon as the normal temp is reached, the engine goes to 500 RPM and then go back to normal (1000,1500,2000rpm). Everything is working like a charm like nothing never happened.

I think it's time to bring it to the dealership, what do you guys think?


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