# Best/Good engine OIL



## ByReaL (Jul 5, 2004)

What is the best or a verry good OIL for turbo engines (CA18DET...)?
I have 3 options:
they all are 10W40
Castrol Magnatec GTX3 $14/L
Motul V300 Chrono $13/L
and maybe Mobil 1 $19/L

any recomendation, any other type of oil, what do u consider to be the best?


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## Kelso (Apr 29, 2003)

my dads friend is an awesome mechanic....he recomends valvoline all the way so its all i use


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

ByReaL said:


> What is the best or a verry good OIL for turbo engines (CA18DET...)?
> I have 3 options:
> they all are 10W40
> Castrol Magnatec GTX3 $14/L
> ...


Mobil 1 is a very good synthetic motor oil. You won't go wrong by using it.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

MOBIL 1!!....


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

A couple really good (recent) oil threads:

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=80874&page=1&highlight=oil

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=58090&page=1&pp=15 

If you want even more discussion on oil, search this forum using the word "synthetic" or the various brand names such as Chevron, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc ...


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

I've had nothing but problems with mobil 1 oil. I use vavoline. If you look on any of the oil jugs, you will see a stamp that says, API tested??? i think, that's what you should llook for. If it has it, 9 times out of 10 it will be a good oil.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

zellx2004 said:


> I've had nothing but problems with mobil 1 oil. I use vavoline. If you look on any of the oil jugs, you will see a stamp that says, API tested??? i think, that's what you should llook for. If it has it, 9 times out of 10 it will be a good oil.


Prefering one Oil over another is one thing. But how exactly do you have "nothing but problems" with a certain Oil?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

I used Mobil 1 with a 99 camaro SS. (LS-1 s6-speed) It was brand new at the time, the factory recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 oil. So we used that. The car could not keep it in there. It burnt it all out. Next thing we know, KNOCK....KNOCK.....KNOCK....then BOOM! there goes the ls1. THe entire car was brand new, I think the car had a total of 30 miles (??). We checked the ground, none of it leaked out. So i had to burn it. That's why that turned me against mobil 1 oil.


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## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

zellx2004 said:


> I used Mobil 1 with a 99 camaro SS. (LS-1 s6-speed) It was brand new at the time, the factory recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 oil. So we used that. The car could not keep it in there. It burnt it all out. Next thing we know, KNOCK....KNOCK.....KNOCK....then BOOM! there goes the ls1. THe entire car was brand new, I think the car had a total of 30 miles (??). We checked the ground, none of it leaked out. So i had to burn it. That's why that turned me against mobil 1 oil.


I got news for ya...Mobil1 isn't the only oil that burns. I had Redline (the proper weight, too) in my ITR and it burned. I didn't know that it burned oil, but I developed a rod knock taking touring laps at VIR. Did I blame it on the oil? No. A warranty engine replacement later, I switch to Mobil1 and does it burn? Nope.

Now I own a M3, and it burns Mobil1 too. Do I think switching to another oil is likely to lessen the problem? No. Which is why I check my oil level every week.


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## ByReaL (Jul 5, 2004)

BMW bur oil from factory (if u refer that the engine eats the oil) if u look into the bmw manual u will se that that somewere the yspecifi the amount of oil that the engine eat afther a certain numbers of mile/km

as i understood (i do noit have something shure) CA18DET eat also oil afther u have pased the red line (7000rpm)

when u refer to "bur oil" u refer to the fact that some oil disapear afther u have runed the car some miles


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

2Fass240us said:


> I got news for ya...Mobil1 isn't the only oil that burns. I had Redline (the proper weight, too) in my ITR and it burned. I didn't know that it burned oil, but I developed a rod knock taking touring laps at VIR. Did I blame it on the oil? No. A warranty engine replacement later, I switch to Mobil1 and does it burn? Nope.
> 
> Now I own a M3, and it burns Mobil1 too. Do I think switching to another oil is likely to lessen the problem? No. Which is why I check my oil level every week.


Keep in mind this was just my expirence. Use whatever oil suits you best. I for one, am not going to use mobil 1 oil just from this bad expirence. Was it the engine? Piston rings? Valve guides? Valves? Heads? who knows, I just thought it was kinda funny to switch back to mobil 1 from using a different oil and the engine burns up all of the mobil 1 oil.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"Got news for ya' ... Mobil 1 isn't the only oil that burns. I had Red Line (the proper weight, too) in my ITR and it burned. I didn't know that it burned oil, but I developed a rod knock taking touring laps at VIR. Did I blame it on the oil? No. A warranty engine replacement later, I switch to Mobil 1 and does it burn? Nope."_

Odd, my '95 Civic's B16 used both Mobil 1 and Red Line and didn't burn a drop in over 100,000 miles. I simply never had to add a drop of oil to this engine I ran very hard ... and I went 5,000-6,000 miles between changes.

The only oil this engine burned was Valvoline Syntec. Although it used to be one of my favorite brands, it is now one of my least favorite. Lab tests show that it has the weakest additive package ... and a mediocre base oil as well. 

Every engine is different, so I believe every one of the stories above.

*ByReal*, my recommendation to you is to start with the Motul and go with the Mobil 1 as a second choice. As was stated previously, check your oil frequently until you are familiar with its consumption patterns.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

zellx2004 said:


> I used Mobil 1 with a 99 camaro SS. (LS-1 s6-speed) It was brand new at the time, the factory recommended Mobil 1 5w-30 oil. So we used that. The car could not keep it in there. It burnt it all out. Next thing we know, KNOCK....KNOCK.....KNOCK....then BOOM! there goes the ls1. THe entire car was brand new, I think the car had a total of 30 miles (??). We checked the ground, none of it leaked out. So i had to burn it. That's why that turned me against mobil 1 oil.


It probably wasnt the oil is my guess. Also why didnt you run regular oil first like most people do on Brand new cars and then switch to Synthetic? Also did you even break the engine in?


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## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

zellx2004 said:


> Keep in mind this was just my expirence. Use whatever oil suits you best. I for one, am not going to use mobil 1 oil just from this bad expirence. Was it the engine? Piston rings? Valve guides? Valves? Heads? who knows, I just thought it was kinda funny to switch back to mobil 1 from using a different oil and the engine burns up all of the mobil 1 oil.


I understand...I merely wanted to point out that Mobil1 wasn't the only oil that burned.

I assume you got the engine replaced under warranty?



Bror Jace said:


> Odd, my '95 Civic's B16 used both Mobil 1 and Red Line and didn't burn a drop in over 100,000 miles. I simply never had to add a drop of oil to this engine I ran very hard ... and I went 5,000-6,000 miles between changes.


I'm not sure why this was the case, but ITR's are notorious for burning oil.


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

I would use mobil 1 i used that in my se-r drove it hard had it for 25,000 miles never burned any, it leaked some but that was a differant issue. I also used a K&N filter sorta expensive but better flow and easy to get off.


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

2Fass240us said:


> I understand...I merely wanted to point out that Mobil1 wasn't the only oil that burned.
> 
> I assume you got the engine replaced under warranty?
> 
> ...


Yes, the engine was replaced, but we don't use mobil (my dad doesn't trust it.) so intstead my dad and I decided to use royal purple. So far everything is just fine and dandy (knock on wood.) So if I had to choose which synthetic, I would choose royal purple. Just as long as no one in here uses the Castrol Syntec crap.


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## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

zellx2004 said:


> Yes, the engine was replaced, but we don't use mobil (my dad doesn't trust it.) so intstead my dad and I decided to use royal purple. So far everything is just fine and dandy (knock on wood.) So if I had to choose which synthetic, I would choose royal purple. Just as long as no one in here uses the Castrol Syntec crap.


The pump mechanics at work swear by Royal Purple for the centrifugal process pumps. I saw it on display at a trade show and was pretty impressed myself. Oil was run in tractor trailer trucks for a loooong time and looked almost brand new.

I am thinking of trying it in my M3 just for chits and giggles.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

But the thing is...you want your oil to get Dirty. That tells you that its keeping the crap out of your engine. Then you change it and you have Clean lubrication again.

Im scared of those oils that say you dont have to change it for such and such miles. Ill stick to changing my oil every 3-4k with mobil one! Id rather have NEW oil in my Car every 3k-4k rather than have the same oil in my car for 6-8k miles.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

i use castrol formula-r synthetic 5W-30. My mechanic says its overkill for my car and that a semi-synthetic is fine for SR's as long as you change it every 5000k's.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

Joel said:


> i use castrol formula-r synthetic 5W-30. My mechanic says its overkill for my car and that a semi-synthetic is fine for SR's as long as you change it every 5000k's.


Shyt!! Thats not over kill. Our motors Redline at 7500rpms (At least) and will throw rods and spin bearings like its nothing. We NEED sysnthetic. If you ever Redline your motor its NOT over kill!


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

I'd use Royal Purple's racing oils ... it's something like a 15W40. But their street oils have a lot of mineral oil in them and thin out quickly, even their 10W-30. For street oils, I choose others ...

My current favorite oil is Schaeffer, a private blender in St. Louis Missouri:

http://www.schaefferoil.com/

Their mineral blends go for $3 per quart plus tax and they don't shear down during normal drain intervals of 4,000 - 6,000 miles.

Oh, and I've heard of plenty of LS-1s which guzzled Mobil 1. Must be something about their ring pack configuration. 

Honda VTEC engines tend to consume a lot of ANY oil ... especially at the high RPMs where the VTEC kicks in. It was explained to me why ... but I've forgotten. Honda Preludes (certain years) have other problems with oil consumption due to certain types of piston rings used.

And yes, everyone here should be highly skeptical of extreme drain interval claims. You should always get your oil changed at least as often as the manual recommends.


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## nosdelux (Dec 8, 2004)

Valvoline all the way! :thumbup:


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## speedy_240sx (Nov 6, 2003)

I use Mobil 1 in my 97 240sx 97,000+miles and my 95 Chevy Tahoe it has 213,000+miles and still no oil loss.
What ever you do do not go from synthetic to conventional oil or your motor will not last for long.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*speedy_240sx*: _"What ever you do do not go from synthetic to conventional oil or your motor will not last for long."_

No speedy, that is an old myth which needs to go away. 

There's nothing wrong with switching between the two 'types' of oil. I have even done it seasonally, year after year. My '95 Civic ran the first 100,000 miles on Mostly Mobil 1 ... then the woman I sold it to switched to conventional oil and it's been running great for the last two years. 

Actually, Valvoline has become my least favorite brand of lubricants. Not only do they have the weakest additive package I know of, they've lied to me a couple times on their tech line. 

Still, no API approved oil is 'bad.'


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Actually I think he means the difference between running conventional oil for 140,000 miles and then suddenly switching to a detergent heavy synthetic. It cleans out the seals so well than I have seen cars spring major leaks over a few weeks time. Same thing with using BG44K on a gummed up fuel system, that can cause leaks as well. It's not always a 100% "will happen" situation, but in cars where the oil was not changed as often as it should have been, and in the case of some cars repeatedly overheated and the oil has burned and taken up residence in the seals, it can cause a lot of problems. It's just evidence of deeper problems.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*[email protected]*, I think you are describing the 'false seal' phenomenon which says that an engine which sees infrequent oil changes will often allow a wall of crud/deposit to form against the inside of seals.

Synthetics (often thinner, with a higher detergency) can dissolve this away and cause the aged, dried-out seal to leak.

I understand this, but think it only applies to abused/neglected engines.

There's also a widely understood myth that engines 'get used to' certain types of oils and you can't switch without causing damage. That simply isn't true.

The only oils you _can't_ mix with automotive mineral oils and Group IV/V synthetics are PAGs ... a glycol-based lubricant used in rare industrial applications like certain compressors, refridgerators, etc ....


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## ohman (Jan 1, 2005)

I just had the oil changed the first time in my 04 Frontier and it cost me 64 bucks at Jiffylube. I did have them put Mobil 1 in it though. I am going to start to change my own if it cost that much. I have heard the oil filter is hard to get ot also but I havent looked yet.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

ohman said:


> I just had the oil changed the first time in my 04 Frontier and it cost me 64 bucks at Jiffylube. I did have them put Mobil 1 in it though. I am going to start to change my own if it cost that much. I have heard the oil filter is hard to get ot also but I havent looked yet.


Heh! Welcome to the world of Nissan where getting to your Oil filter can be a pain in the Ass! $64!!!!! and they didnt even give you Mobil 1?!?!?!

6pack of Mobil 1 Synthetic $15 (PepBoys)
OEM Nissan Filter $5-$20


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## ByReaL (Jul 5, 2004)

hey guys u give me freaks,
i use now Castrol magnatec GTX3+ this is a semisintetic oil
the car has 150.000km and when i bought the car the previuos owner gived me a bottlke with the oil he used for the car and it was 1$ oil (the worst oil i ever saw)

with this Castrol i had no problems for about 4500km but 5000km are close now and it is time to change the oil and i have the chance to buy 4L motul Crono V300 full syntetic for 50$ (castrol is 40$ for 4L and the oil filter is ~10$)

and for me what u tell there that a syntetic oil can cause problems seams not real, but because i see many of u have this ideea i do not know what to belive

do u think i should swich to motul chrono v300 and satay with it. or it is better if i stay with castrol magnatec gtx3+ (with this one i had no problem so far)


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## speedy_240sx (Nov 6, 2003)

I bought a 95 tahoe wih 197,000 miles and the guy only used regular motor oil and I swapped over to synthetic and I have had no problem with it and I have done put about 20,000 more miles and it is running stonger now with better oil pressure than the conventional motor oil. this motor has never been rebuilt and I have had no problems going from conventional to synthetic.


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

Johnny-wonk said:


> Heh! Welcome to the world of Nissan where getting to your Oil filter can be a pain in the Ass! $64!!!!! and they didnt even give you Mobil 1?!?!?!
> 
> 6pack of Mobil 1 Synthetic $15 (PepBoys)
> OEM Nissan Filter $5-$20


How did you get 6 quarts of mobil 1 syn. for $15 I am pretty sure that you didnt get synthetic that stuff is atleast $4 a quart.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

You can switch from reg oil to Synthetic nobody saying that there is anything wrong with that. You switched and stayed with synthetic. They are talking about going to synthetic and then switching back...


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"You can switch from reg oil to synthetic. Nobody saying that there is anything wrong with that. You switched and stayed with synthetic. They are talking about going to synthetic and then switching back..."_

Nope, that's the flipside of the same myth. I ran a car on Mobil 1 for 100,000 miles then switched to mineral-based oils past that point. I sold the car to a neighbor and she's at around 160,000 miles on mineral oils. Car runs great, no leaks.

All motor oils are _compatible_. If a company advertises that you HAVE to do some special flush before using their motor oil product(s), skip them and use something else.


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## Johnny-wonk (Jan 28, 2003)

zlr101 said:


> How did you get 6 quarts of mobil 1 syn. for $15 I am pretty sure that you didnt get synthetic that stuff is atleast $4 a quart.


 you guys should cehck the rest of the forum more often...http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=80873

Ive got Six calenders sitting in front of me right now...


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

Johnny-wonk said:


> you guys should cehck the rest of the forum more often...http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=80873
> 
> Ive got Six calenders sitting in front of me right now...


OK but no pep boys around here.


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