# New 240 Driver...



## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Yesterday I sold my 93 del Sol and bought a 92 240sx SE Hatch. I've never owned a Nissan before, but I've driven my dad's 03 350z enough to realize that they are GOOD.
I can't wait to get under the hood, the previous owner wasn't too big on tuneups, and it hasn't had an allignment in 7(!!!) years. I picked it up for under 1.5k and it seems to be fairly solid except for the usual crap (missing window switches, crap tires, busted fuel door, really really bad tint, 1 working speaker,etc). 
Anything I should know? I plan on picking up a Haynes manual this week, but I am curious about the mechanical aspects. 
I've found so far that it's a 2.4l 4-cyl with 155hp/160lb. It has ABS with HICAS 4 wheel steering, 5 speed manual (of course), and... er, that's about what I know at this point. Any advice or tips are appreciated.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

first thing is get it in running order, if hicas is bothering you, get a hicas eliminator, it sucks bad.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

KaRdoN said:


> first thing is get it in running order, if hicas is bothering you, get a hicas eliminator, it sucks bad.


Hasn't bothered me yet. So far I like the way it drives. Getting the A/C in perfect working order is my TOP priority. I just went through last summer with my del Sol (no A/C installed) and I don't plan on doing it this year. The air starts nice and cold, but as you drive it gradually gets warmer. Previous owner says it doesn't work well enough on "really hot days" (3/4 of the year in Houston).


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

Rephlex said:


> Hasn't bothered me yet. So far I like the way it drives. Getting the A/C in perfect working order is my TOP priority. I just went through last summer with my del Sol (no A/C installed) and I don't plan on doing it this year. The air starts nice and cold, but as you drive it gradually gets warmer. Previous owner says it doesn't work well enough on "really hot days" (3/4 of the year in Houston).


hmm, well try to flush it out, and put some of the coolant stuff in it, also check all the lines for a leak. after that, it might be a good idea to rip out your dash, and clear everything out, i have all kinds of stuff rattling around in mine.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

could be clogged condesner fins (thing infront of radiator). If there is a lot of debri there then it'll start cold but as the refridge heats up, there is no air to cool it...so it will lose cooling capability.

I'de check the condenser first...

What else can cuase insufficient cooling you ask? 

MANY...maaaaany things. If you have a set of gauges then you can diagnos this problem. If not then your SOL...this is cause there are so many things that could be wrong. 
here's a few...kinda extreme to less extreme order

1 restriction in low side (need to repair line/part)
2 moisture in system (need to pull vaccum and replace refridg.)
3 air in sys (same as 2)
4 overcharge of refridg (same as 2)
5 overcharge of oil (same as 2)
6 clogged condenser fins
7 overheating engine?

if you need a flush then you shouldn't have to worry about over/under charge cause...you'll be replacing it. If you're doing it then you'll wanna make sure you pull a GOOD vaccum for 30 min...make sure it holds for 5-7min. If it don't hold you gotta leak...but since it actually cools at first...not too likely. Make sure you have enough oil and yet...not too much oil...this is of course for the compressor.

course if a tech is doing this for you then you shouldn't have to worry about that.

HICAS...piiiiiimp.

THat's all I've got


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Yesterday I sold my 93 del Sol and bought a 92 240sx SE Hatch. I've never owned a Nissan before, but I've driven my dad's 03 350z enough to realize that they are GOOD.
> I can't wait to get under the hood, the previous owner wasn't too big on tuneups, and it hasn't had an allignment in 7(!!!) years. I picked it up for under 1.5k and it seems to be fairly solid except for the usual crap (missing window switches, crap tires, busted fuel door, really really bad tint, 1 working speaker,etc).
> Anything I should know? I plan on picking up a Haynes manual this week, but I am curious about the mechanical aspects.
> I've found so far that it's a 2.4l 4-cyl with 155hp/160lb. It has ABS with HICAS 4 wheel steering, 5 speed manual (of course), and... er, that's about what I know at this point. Any advice or tips are appreciated.


Hmmm...ABS with HICAS? That is interesting, My car doesn't have HICAS, then again I own a 1991 Canadian Model 240SX!
Keep the HICAS if it doesn't bother you, most people don't like cause they think it affects their drifting, but unless you plan on Drifting, the HICAS makes your car handle much tighter!
Good Idea with the Haynes Manual, I hear the Chilton's is good too.
My only suggestion is ask questions and search around here and every other forum you can!
Also, ask questions before you dish out big $ to fix anything, mechanics can be major crooks!


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## Chris90FB240sx (Feb 25, 2005)

Ive heard the HICAS 4 wheel steering can go bad though and steer at wrong times. Just something I heard. So dont pay it to much attention but maybe something to look into. HICAS has the LSD to doesnt it??


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## K-1 (Jun 15, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> I plan on picking up a Haynes manual this week, but I am curious about the mechanical aspects.


Good luck with that 

I don't think there is a Haynes manual, I know Chiltons has a Stanza/240 book though, but it's for 4 differents models of cars.

I recommend trying to find the .pdf factory service manual that is floating around online.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

I have somewhat diagnosed my a/c problem. I seem to have a defective thermostat. The engine will get 3/4 up the temp guage, and the cool air gets warmer. Once the thermostat finally pops open, the air gets cool again. So hopefully it's an easy fix. I am guessing it also needs a fresh charge as it's an old car and the previous owner wasn't too big on maintanance. Unfortunately I don't have a day off until Friday this week so I'm really anxious to get working on these stupid problems. 

Anybody recommend Maaco? I need a paint job and some minor bodywork. Houston area bodyshop recommendations would also be helpful. I have $700 set aside from the sale of my Sol and once the A/C is done, it's time for the fun stuff.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

*Holy crap I'm lucky... I think...*

So I took the car to a Firestone shop, but the guy wasn't there to look at the thermostat. So one of the guys says "Follow me around the corner, we can get it done right now." So we go to another shop and nobody's there to work on it either. I tell him (and by now I'm thinking this definitely falls under sketchy at best) I'll come back on friday. He says, "Wait, there's one more shop, it's right down here." So we go to one more place. The guy pops the hood and is listening to the engine. There's a loud rattle we'd heard when checking out the car, we figured it was a bearing or somehting, mechanic says "There's something loose inside the engine, rattling around." So he explains he's gotta open up the valve cover, get whatever it is outa there, and then bolt it back up. So we agree on $50 for the thermostat and $50 to get the random piece of metal out. 

About half an hour later I'm starting to kick into full panic mode, waiting to see my car fly by on its way to the chopshop and the mechanic come after me with a wrench and cut out my organs to sell on the black market. So I walk out to see how he's doing, and he goes "You very lucky!" points over to the VERY LARGE piece of metal bracket that had broken off and was sitting on the timing chain. So I grab it and go back inside, 20 minutes later the thermostat is done, I pay him $100 (plus a $3 tip for getting it done so fast) and now my A/C works fine and my motor won't explode (because of that chunk of metal) in a week!! I plan on taking it to another shop to get his work looked at, make sure there aren't any screw ups. 

Holy crap this could have turned out bad. All this happened in 3rd ward, Houston Tx. Thank God for decent people.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> So I took the car to a Firestone shop, but the guy wasn't there to look at the thermostat. So one of the guys says "Follow me around the corner, we can get it done right now." So we go to another shop and nobody's there to work on it either. I tell him (and by now I'm thinking this definitely falls under sketchy at best) I'll come back on friday. He says, "Wait, there's one more shop, it's right down here." So we go to one more place. The guy pops the hood and is listening to the engine. There's a loud rattle we'd heard when checking out the car, we figured it was a bearing or somehting, mechanic says "There's something loose inside the engine, rattling around." So he explains he's gotta open up the valve cover, get whatever it is outa there, and then bolt it back up. So we agree on $50 for the thermostat and $50 to get the random piece of metal out.
> 
> About half an hour later I'm starting to kick into full panic mode, waiting to see my car fly by on its way to the chopshop and the mechanic come after me with a wrench and cut out my organs to sell on the black market. So I walk out to see how he's doing, and he goes "You very lucky!" points over to the VERY LARGE piece of metal bracket that had broken off and was sitting on the timing chain. So I grab it and go back inside, 20 minutes later the thermostat is done, I pay him $100 (plus a $3 tip for getting it done so fast) and now my A/C works fine and my motor won't explode (because of that chunk of metal) in a week!! I plan on taking it to another shop to get his work looked at, make sure there aren't any screw ups.
> 
> Holy crap this could have turned out bad. All this happened in 3rd ward, Houston Tx. Thank God for decent people.


The piece of metal removed was one of two (yes, one of TWO) timing chain guides. These timing chain guides commonly break off. 
Good news: Congratulations, you've averted tragedy for the retardedly low price of $50 (holy crap that's cheap).
Bad news: That is only one of two timing chain guides. 
I've gone over this so many times it hurts, and I'm not in the mood to type right now, because I've been at the University for 10 hours reviewing pathogenesis papers, and my brain is causing me physical pain. However, I have posted about this sever times before, so I don't need to do it again. I posted links to a walk-through to remove both timing chain guides, as well a more thorough description of the problem. Search in the S13 threads for "timing chain guide" and you'll hit my posts.
Good luck removing the other timing chain guide and completely averting a tragedy that my first KA sadly experienced.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> I have somewhat diagnosed my a/c problem. I seem to have a defective thermostat. ...I have $700 set aside from the sale of my Sol and once the A/C is done, it's time for the fun stuff.


Lol, A/C was the first thing I removed on my RS13 to save weight. 
If you need any of the A/C support stuff, like hoses or fan, R134A, etc., drop me a PM.


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## sunnydet90 (Sep 10, 2004)

bridrive55 said:


> Lol, A/C was the first thing I removed on my RS13 to save weight.
> If you need any of the A/C support stuff, like hoses or fan, R134A, etc., drop me a PM.


 me 2 just got done taking my engine out and course no need for AC i've got WINDOWS course the big 2-100 lol keep ya real cool. and my sunroof. hell i'll just take hatch and all off. j/k. pm me if ya need AC stuff i'll give it to you just pay s/h.

Don


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Thanks for the offers, looks like the a/c problem went with the thermostat problem. (knock on wood). I'll know once it hits 105 in a month. 

So how do I know if I need to remove the second timing chain guide? And is there a possibility this guy cut the bastard off? I kept the piece and it almost looks like it was plasma'ed off, the edge looks super clean and somewhat melted. I wonder... 

My next step is a stereo and new tint. Anybody got some good speaker recommendations? Not doing an amp/sub, just good speakers all around. I've budgeted myself about $300 for a receiver and maybe $150-$200 for speakers.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

K-1 said:


> I recommend trying to find the .pdf factory service manual that is floating around online.


D/Ling the pdf right now, thanks for the tip. Saves me $17.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Thanks for the offers, looks like the a/c problem went with the thermostat problem. (knock on wood). I'll know once it hits 105 in a month.
> 
> So how do I know if I need to remove the second timing chain guide? And is there a possibility this guy cut the bastard off? I kept the piece and it almost looks like it was plasma'ed off, the edge looks super clean and somewhat melted. I wonder...
> 
> My next step is a stereo and new tint. Anybody got some good speaker recommendations? Not doing an amp/sub, just good speakers all around. I've budgeted myself about $300 for a receiver and maybe $150-$200 for speakers.


Both the timing chain guides are held on by bolts. I'm assuming that the one that you had removed was the upper timing chain guide. If it was plasma cut off, the shop guy is an idiot. It's held on by two bolts. The lower timing chain guide, which I would recommmend removing as soon as possible, is sorta near the timing chain tensioner, and involves removing the distributor to access. I can post a complete walkthrough later, if you're really serious about removing the bugger.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Well ok, then I guess it did in fact break off. It looked like it was either cut or broken off. Exactly how important is it to remove the second guide? I guess what I'm wondering is what are the chances it's going to actually break off and blow up my motor.


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Well ok, then I guess it did in fact break off. It looked like it was either cut or broken off. Exactly how important is it to remove the second guide? I guess what I'm wondering is what are the chances it's going to actually break off and blow up my motor.


Yeah...Get in there and remove the remainder of the Upper Chain Guide if it hasn't been removed already, I would suggest removing the lower on if it is causing problems...Then again I wouldn't know if it is causing problems...


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

bridrive55 said:


> Both the timing chain guides are held on by bolts. I'm assuming that the one that you had removed was the upper timing chain guide. If it was plasma cut off, the shop guy is an idiot. It's held on by two bolts. The lower timing chain guide, which I would recommmend removing as soon as possible, is sorta near the timing chain tensioner, and involves removing the distributor to access. I can post a complete walkthrough later, if you're really serious about removing the bugger.


Brian....
If you remove the upper an lower Chain Guides, do they have to be replaced?
Do they affect the chain movement at all if they are gone? I think this might be the clicking noise inside my engine, might be a valve tick too though...


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Thanks for the offers, looks like the a/c problem went with the thermostat problem. (knock on wood). I'll know once it hits 105 in a month.
> 
> So how do I know if I need to remove the second timing chain guide? And is there a possibility this guy cut the bastard off? I kept the piece and it almost looks like it was plasma'ed off, the edge looks super clean and somewhat melted. I wonder...
> 
> My next step is a stereo and new tint. Anybody got some good speaker recommendations? Not doing an amp/sub, just good speakers all around. I've budgeted myself about $300 for a receiver and maybe $150-$200 for speakers.


I recommend Fusion Speakers...If you have a Coupe, 6.5 3-way's in the rear 4x6 Plates up front in the kick panels, they sound amazing especially when they have a Fusion Amp Behind them! My whole system is Fusion so far and I'm loving it!


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## 240sxs1377 (Jan 9, 2005)

I recommend gettting either kenwood or infinty. My brother has them in his car and they sound crystal clear. Also if you want to spend alittle more you can get componets which come with a 6" speaker and tweaters with crossovers so you dont blow up your tweaters. hears a great site.
Caraudio


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

240sxs1377 said:


> I recommend gettting either kenwood or infinty. My brother has them in his car and they sound crystal clear. Also if you want to spend alittle more you can get componets which come with a 6" speaker and tweaters with crossovers so you dont blow up your tweaters. hears a great site.
> Caraudio


You would have to custom Mount 6" speakers but the sound Components deliver are worth the time and effort.
Infinity stuff sounds even better than Fusion! Just a little out of my price range!


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## Chris90FB240sx (Feb 25, 2005)

Yea Infinity is about as good as it gets for speakers. I love them because my moms Chrysler had them and dayum for factory they were loud. I have some Pyrimid suprisingly (that are 6x9) that sound good.. Not a good name but they are cheap and they sound good.

I have a all Kenwood system except my Amp and Subs in my 240 though. Kenwoods 3 inch speakers sound good. Has a built in tweeter.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

Chris90FB240sx said:


> Yea Infinity is about as good as it gets for speakers. I love them because my moms Chrysler had them and dayum for factory they were loud. I have some Pyrimid suprisingly (that are 6x9) that sound good.. Not a good name but they are cheap and they sound good.
> 
> I have a all Kenwood system except my Amp and Subs in my 240 though. Kenwoods 3 inch speakers sound good. Has a built in tweeter.


hmm, i have some pioneers in mine, and i would definately reccomend them to anyone, but i sprung 100 a set and got some 4-ways, and i got a 4x100 amp for them too, its so nice, and i got a DEH-P3600 head unit, i must admit, even without subs, it sounds awesome.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

240sxs1377 said:


> I recommend gettting either kenwood or infinty. My brother has them in his car and they sound crystal clear. Also if you want to spend alittle more you can get componets which come with a 6" speaker and tweaters with crossovers so you dont blow up your tweaters. hears a great site.
> Caraudio


I had a set of Rockford Fosgate 6.5" components in the Sol, and wasn't terribly impressed. They were top of the line, too. It probably had a lot to do with the terrible acoustics in that car, but that can only account for so much... I'm not looking to put together a system with an amp and subs and all that, just some decent speakers and a tight receiver.

Took my first serious look at Sony decks (never liked their styling before) and came across this one: 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TDkzIWpVgge/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=62700&I=158F7715X

Clean, simple, and dark face. I like it. 

For the rear speakers, Infinity:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TDkzIWpVgge/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51400&I=1084625CFP

For the front speakers, Alpine:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TDkzIWpVgge/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51400&I=500SPS460A

I had planned on an Alpine head unit initially. It has 1 more watt RMS, but lacks the sound controls of the Sony and it's ten bucks more. This:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TDkzIWpVgge/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=62700&I=500CDA9851

Yeah so that's gonna be my system. I'm trying to see just how fast I can blow the $700 I got for my Sol. LOL. Can't wait for that tax refund, either- baby needs tint/paint/tires. 

Sorry bout the shitty links, btw, haven't figured out the slick way to do that...


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

dude, dont ever get sony, sony sucks at everything audio, check out the audio section for more info, they know more in there.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

KaRdoN said:


> dude, dont ever get sony, sony sucks at everything audio, check out the audio section for more info, they know more in there.


I've always been a Sony believer... Dunno why... *heads into audio section*


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> I've always been a Sony believer... Dunno why... *heads into audio section*


Yeah I Bought one of the new Sony Head unit's and have been cursed with a horrible sounding Deck ever since, it skips, only plays some burnt CD's, it even error's out on CD's that I bought that work perfect in other decks.
I am also very dissappointed in the amount of controls on the deck too. IMO stay away from anything SONY!


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## Chris90FB240sx (Feb 25, 2005)

I like the new sony 5 sided subs. They hit hard for what they are. The 10s I listend to sounded better than some 12s Ive heard.


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

Chris90FB240sx said:


> I like the new sony 5 sided subs. They hit hard for what they are. The 10s I listend to sounded better than some 12s Ive heard.


Most 10" subs do sound better than 12" very few people know this.
For the Price you pay the Sony's do sound okay, but for $100 more you can 2 or 3 times the equipment, Sony stuff wears out too quickly as well!


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

DaCheat said:


> Sony stuff wears out too quickly as well!


*Cough*PS2*Cough*

True... I guess I'll go with the Alpine. I had one in the Sol and loved it.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

any way, back on topic...

shouldn't you replace the guides? I mean..they are there for a reason.


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## Nowhere Fast (Mar 13, 2005)

SonsofWisdom said:


> any way, back on topic...
> 
> shouldn't you replace the guides? I mean..they are there for a reason.



I heard on the '91s and up <dohc> you dont need the guides, but on the sohc engines from '90 and earlier you do. Anyone wanna confirm this?


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

*A quick update...*

So the thermostat problem is gone, the a/c is working like a champ, and I've got a squeaking belt. 

I finally got paid today and plan to do plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, squeaky belt, and air filter tomorrow. I needed to replace the exhaust from the cat back last week, so I got the 2" piping (yeah I know, narrow... whatever) with the 3 way adjustable tip muffler. Bastard is nice and loud, got a good sound. And I can make it sorta quiet when ladies is in car. :hal:

I've created an official wish list to hopefully be completed within the next year (full time student, working part time). Boost is not part of the list, ...yet. 

1. http://www.intensepower.com/tebadacosy24.html

2. http://www.intensepower.com/apalresttoba.html

3. http://www.intensepower.com/apalfrsttoba.html

4. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-O7hpaNyQyeK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=62700&I=500CDA9851

5. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-O7hpaNyQyeK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51200&I=130TSG1040

6. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-O7hpaNyQyeK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51400&I=130TSG4640

7. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-O7hpaNyQyeK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=600&I=500CHAS634

8. http://www.intensepower.com/aemshramin24.html

9. http://www.intensepower.com/boflmoresps1.html

10. http://www.intensepower.com/cestiiclkit2.html

11. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...arch=true&partnum=05VR5ES100&fromCompare1=yes

The list is in order of priority. Any advice? I read in another post that the ka24de doesn't respond great to ram air/cold air. 

Gotta keep in mind this is my first project car of this scale, need advice as to pricing, what parts to avoid, etc. Help me out! :cheers:


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

Well as far as ram air I've never heard of that before, course I can't say I've seen any 240's with it. Good question.

Still waiting for the question raised by Nowhere Fast and myself.

I highly doubt though that the Nissan would waste thousands and even millions of dollars on manufacturing a part that was unecisary and not needed. So I would still replace them. If they could cut a little metal on one model...that adds up after producind a few thousand cars...so it is not in there best interest to keep un-needed parts


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## warman (Jul 19, 2004)

SonsofWisdom said:


> Well as far as ram air I've never heard of that before, course I can't say I've seen any 240's with it. Good question.
> 
> Still waiting for the question raised by Nowhere Fast and myself.
> 
> I highly doubt though that the Nissan would waste thousands and even millions of dollars on manufacturing a part that was unecisary and not needed. So I would still replace them. If they could cut a little metal on one model...that adds up after producind a few thousand cars...so it is not in there best interest to keep un-needed parts


Yes, but one who has ever worked in the industry knows that they are not nearly as logical as that. Look at the Aztec for example; somewhere, along the entire developement and production of that car, why didn't anyone think, _This is the foulest car ever, and is a huge waste of money_. 

Also, I doube the ram air will do anything (unless it is tru ram air). if you put the cone on the hood of the vehicle, facing foward, mabe your would see something of boost. Otherwise, I recomend getting a coldair, and upgrading the MAF/VAF. You may not saee anything out of it right away, but you will after more parts go on. Look at the stock intake. With a few more upgrades, the thing wont physically be able to suck enough CFM. try it. put headers, testpipe, downpipe, cat back, and cams. run on the stock intake for a while, then add cold air and better MAF/VAF. You will notice the difference, trust me.

as to the chain guids, I have no idea, except that I dont think nissan is as economically effiecient as SONOFWISDOME says...


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

warman said:


> Yes, but one who has ever worked in the industry knows that they are not nearly as logical as that. Look at the Aztec for example; somewhere, along the entire developement and production of that car, why didn't anyone think, _This is the foulest car ever, and is a huge waste of money_.


That has nothing to do with production costs and having uneeded metal in your car...that is more of your opinion of a production model. 

Apparently it was not a waste...they sold all of those they made...and so...they didn't lose money. The same can be said of the Honda element, Scion xb...they're ugly to me...but someone out there likes them and buys them. 

What I was saying was not an opinion...if you cut out uneeded parts then you save money. And yes corps do this all the time.



> Also, I doube the ram air will do anything (unless it is tru ram air). if you put the cone on the hood of the vehicle, facing foward, mabe your would see something of boost. Otherwise, I recomend getting a coldair, and upgrading the MAF/VAF. You may not saee anything out of it right away, but you will after more parts go on. Look at the stock intake. With a few more upgrades, the thing wont physically be able to suck enough CFM. try it. put headers, testpipe, downpipe, cat back, and cams. run on the stock intake for a while, then add cold air and better MAF/VAF. You will notice the difference, trust me.


Why would any one who knows anything NOT put actual ram air on their car...and WHY would you assume I was talking about anything OTHER than ACTUAL ram air???

You must hang out with a bunch of ricers who put "cold air" that sucks air from the engine compartment and like putting stickers all over their stock ride ...HA HA...I bet I could make a killing on "autozone performance" stickers.

Look we were *just talking about ram * air and not all that other stuff bro..stay on topic



> as to the chain guids, I have no idea, except that I dont think nissan is as economically effiecient as SONOFWISDOME says...


I'm sorry but I still think if the part is there stock..then it is needed. From a mechanics standpoint that is sound logic. Download the pdf 91+ manual...and LOOK at the timing chain guide...if you take it off you will have problems...maybe you could get a smaller chain and then take the guides off...but what did you save by doing this? uh nothing...if it ain't broke don't fix it. Now a major car company would save a lot...cause it costs money to make thousands of those parts.

So here is what you should have said
(cause what I'm about to say makes more sense) 

they use the same blocks on both engines
it is just the heads that are different
the chain guides are down by the block 
TO SAVE COST...they use only one block for two engines...that would save production cost.

Now..that makes since...just throwing parts into an engine that are not needed...that is not good business...but nissan is smart man...they are gonna stay in business and not waste money...I don't think you know the industry very well at all.

Hate to be blunt like that but you did open your mouth. 

Again...for just the stock engine, I don't think the guides are there just for kicks...they have a purpose...this doesn't mean they can't be removed, it just means you CANNOT just take 'em off. Look at the manual, you'll see what I mean.


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## Kelso (Apr 29, 2003)

if the guides arent there then the timing chain has some space to kinda fling around....essentially this is what happened with my first 240...we tore the motor down and our diagnosis was the chain guide broke and the timing chain was slapping around....somehow or another the water pump got punctured (it was a while ago so im not too clear on what happened) and then the oil and water were getting churned into a milkshake like substance with little bits of metal thrown in...so point is leave the guides


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

DaCheat said:


> Brian....
> If you remove the upper an lower Chain Guides, do they have to be replaced?
> Do they affect the chain movement at all if they are gone? I think this might be the clicking noise inside my engine, might be a valve tick too though...


Prior to common mythology, chain tension is IN NO WAY affected by the timing chain guides. They are just guides, and they never touch the timing chain. When they do touch the timing chain, it ruins the chain, as it did in my first KA. Removing the timing chain guides HAS NO EFFECT on the timing chain tension. Timing chain tension is completely and solely determined by the tensioner. In fact, Nissan instructed it's licensed service professionals to remove the timing chain guides, calling the guides "extraneous." Indeed, the guides are completely pointless. They were designed to keep the chain from ripping into the block in the even of chain breakage, but those chains turned out to be strong. Besides this, the most common problem with timing chains is tension slacking due to a poor timing chain tensioner, and in the event of a slack chain (as in Kelso's case, abov) the timing chain guides can ruin your chain (as in my case). The guides also commonly break off and raise all hell. Doing away with them completely is unequivocally the best idea.


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## shanes13 (Apr 1, 2005)

*Get an FSM*

I would highly suggest dropping the coin on a Factory Service Manual (or get the PDF that is reported to be available). The FSM is super in-depth and will help with almost anything!


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

shanes13 said:


> I would highly suggest dropping the coin on a Factory Service Manual (or get the PDF that is reported to be available). The FSM is super in-depth and will help with almost anything!


I managed to get a chilton's manual pdf, but it isn't really doing much for me. Gonna try and find that factory service manual tonight.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> I managed to get a chilton's manual pdf, but it isn't really doing much for me. Gonna try and find that factory service manual tonight.


If you find it, can you link me to it or send it to me? I'd really appreciate it, and if there's anything I can do for you in return, don't hesitate to ask.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Didn't find a FSM, just the chilton's.... Gonna try bit torrent later, my buddy has it. 

Has anybody got a picture they can link to of their (removed) chain guide? Particularly illustrating the method of removal. Mine looks weird to me, and based on the explanation earlier in the thread, it's only held by two bolts right? It really looks to me like it was cut off... 

I'd run and snap a picture of mine but then i'd have to import it and find a place to host it. Unfortunately i've been enjoying friday night and am not fully qualified. :hal:


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## shanes13 (Apr 1, 2005)

Rephlex said:


> Didn't find a FSM, just the chilton's.... Gonna try bit torrent later, my buddy has it.
> 
> Has anybody got a picture they can link to of their (removed) chain guide? Particularly illustrating the method of removal. Mine looks weird to me, and based on the explanation earlier in the thread, it's only held by two bolts right? It really looks to me like it was cut off...
> 
> I'd run and snap a picture of mine but then i'd have to import it and find a place to host it. Unfortunately i've been enjoying friday night and am not fully qualified. :hal:


When I pulled my valve cover I sam the guide just sitting there (broken of course). I just removed the broken bit and left everything as is.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Hey I dropped this thread into cosmetics, it got ignored... Anybody seen this????

Louvres thread.  


Just wondering if this louvre kit is still around.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Didn't find a FSM, just the chilton's.... Gonna try bit torrent later, my buddy has it.
> 
> Has anybody got a picture they can link to of their (removed) chain guide? Particularly illustrating the method of removal. Mine looks weird to me, and based on the explanation earlier in the thread, it's only held by two bolts right? It really looks to me like it was cut off...
> 
> I'd run and snap a picture of mine but then i'd have to import it and find a place to host it. Unfortunately i've been enjoying friday night and am not fully qualified. :hal:


It's not fun. You need to mark and remove the distributor to get the lower one off on a DOHC. You can get the top one from the valve cover on both SOHC and DOHC though. If you post a pic, I'll be able to tell what's up.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> Yesterday I sold my 93 del Sol and bought a 92 240sx SE Hatch. I've never owned a Nissan before, but I've driven my dad's 03 350z enough to realize that they are GOOD.
> I can't wait to get under the hood, the previous owner wasn't too big on tuneups, and it hasn't had an allignment in 7(!!!) years. I picked it up for under 1.5k and it seems to be fairly solid except for the usual crap (missing window switches, crap tires, busted fuel door, really really bad tint, 1 working speaker,etc).
> Anything I should know? I plan on picking up a Haynes manual this week, but I am curious about the mechanical aspects.
> I've found so far that it's a 2.4l 4-cyl with 155hp/160lb. It has ABS with HICAS 4 wheel steering, 5 speed manual (of course), and... er, that's about what I know at this point. Any advice or tips are appreciated.


Yeah. If you've got HICAS and ABS, then you have VLSD. I'm envious. So is every S13 driver with open diff.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

well I can't find the thread that had the link for the dowload of the service manual...I've got two, for the 89-90 and 91-94. Try a search for it...however, you will find one post with dead links in it...I'm to sick to keep looking...uuuugh...dang cold...

But if you can't find the post then email [email protected] and I'll email whichever one you want. I don't think I have 95+, but you prolly don't need those any hoo.

Uh the 91-94 pdf is really easy to use and has nice bookmarks set up...the 90-90 is horrid, you have to know what you're looking for to find it.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

SonsofWisdom said:


> well I can't find the thread that had the link for the dowload of the service manual...I've got two, for the 89-90 and 91-94. Try a search for it...however, you will find one post with dead links in it...I'm to sick to keep looking...uuuugh...dang cold...
> 
> But if you can't find the post then email [email protected] and I'll email whichever one you want. I don't think I have 95+, but you prolly don't need those any hoo.
> 
> Uh the 91-94 pdf is really easy to use and has nice bookmarks set up...the 90-90 is horrid, you have to know what you're looking for to find it.


Shoot, I actually need all 3. Lol, I have too many 240SX engines lying around. I'll email you right now, and if you could send that to me, I'd be really grateful. I can also share them with other people. We should make a sticky with the FSM in it.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

bridrive55 said:


> Yeah. If you've got HICAS and ABS, then you have VLSD. I'm envious. So is every S13 driver with open diff.


Thanks. I am loving this car, bastard is fun. I'm putting all new shocks (i decided to go cheap and pick some up at autozone) on it next week. I decided to stick with stock handling and use the money I save on tires. Probably taking it on a 2,000 mile drive for summer vaca, I can't frikkin wait to get this thing on Vermont backroads!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: 

I'm too tired tonight to hunt down that fsm... probably just d/l it when a problem pops up.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

*Pictures*

Took these after washing. Paint needs a little work, but I still think she's hot. :fluffy: 

picture 1 

picture 2 

picture 3 

picture 4

Oops, forgot to blur out license plate. :cheers:


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

^ everything but that exhaust looks good IMO :hal:


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

Yeah I'm not too crazy about the looks of the muffler, but it's nice to be able to quiet it down when girl is in car. I need pictures of it with the silencer out. looks tight then.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

bridrive55 said:


> We should make a sticky with the FSM in it.


i made a thread with the link to it..ill bump it for you guys.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

Rephlex said:


> ...I still think she's hot.



Veeery hot...black is my favorite color for the 240. I'm sooooo gonna have to repaint mine. mmmm...dark red factory paint...looks like rust...mmmm


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

So I finally got around to photographing my chain guide. Should it look like this? 

picture 1 

picture 2 

Something about that shiny edge just looks wrong to me.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

Rephlex said:


> So I finally got around to photographing my chain guide. Should it look like this?
> 
> picture 1
> 
> ...


i havent looked at mine, but i dont think it should look like that...oh well, theres no need for it anyways.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

I'm just worried that if he did cut it off for some reason, then there's still a small part loosely bolted onto the engine, waiting to fall off. :thumbdwn:


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## K-1 (Jun 15, 2004)

The part that's bolted down wont be loose, it's 2 bolts holding them on...

I am surprised that the timing chain, tensioner, etc wasn't damaged by the guide breaking like that. Does everything seem fine?


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

K-1 said:


> The part that's bolted down wont be loose, it's 2 bolts holding them on...
> 
> I am surprised that the timing chain, tensioner, etc wasn't damaged by the guide breaking like that. Does everything seem fine?


Runs perfectly (knock on wood), no weird noises, no clicking. Just had the timing adjusted, guy didn't mention anything odd. Starts rough when it's cold out, but that's it.


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## Rephlex (Mar 7, 2005)

*Finally got a system..*

So I was agonizing over what system to put in, and finally settled on something. I kept the stock reciever, and went and got a 20gb iPod with an RF trans. Saved probably a hundred bucks and holy crap it rules. I just need to put in all speakers and I'm good to go.


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## Pulsar-NX-SE (Mar 23, 2005)

Rephlex said:


> Runs perfectly (knock on wood), no weird noises, no clicking. Just had the timing adjusted, guy didn't mention anything odd. Starts rough when it's cold out, but that's it.


 Just to play Devils Advocate and this is definetly not the nissan engine I'm most familiar with my 240 has CA18DET and my Pulsar has CA16DE. If you don't really need the timing chain guide(s) then why did they put one on it in the first place. Just something to think about.


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Pulsar-NX-SE said:


> Just to play Devils Advocate and this is definetly not the nissan engine I'm most familiar with my 240 has CA18DET and my Pulsar has CA16DE. If you don't really need the timing chain guide(s) then why did they put one on it in the first place. Just something to think about.


So that if the timing chain snapped, it wouldn't destroy the block. The guides are meant to maintain the chain in the event of serious trauma. This is completely superfluous though, and they cause more damage by falling into the chain than they avert. Nissan itself instructs service mechanics to remove the timing chain guides.


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## Pulsar-NX-SE (Mar 23, 2005)

bridrive55 said:


> So that if the timing chain snapped, it wouldn't destroy the block. The guides are meant to maintain the chain in the event of serious trauma. This is completely superfluous though, and they cause more damage by falling into the chain than they avert. Nissan itself instructs service mechanics to remove the timing chain guides.


Cool thanks for the info. I truly wasn't sure. I thought that they were intended to maintain chain alignment to make sure it didn't skew and jump.
I've work on Domestic Engines for about 25 years but Imports are new for me.
Until a month ago I had never owned a Nissan of any type and now I own 2
( A 87 Pulsar and 89 240sx ). Both my engines have timing belts CA16DE and CA18DET but at the rate I'm going it's probably only a matter of days before I own a Nissan with an engine that has a timing chain instead of belt (HA HA My Wife will probably shoot me if I buy any more cars). But seriously thanks for the info and not making me feel like an Idot for asking!


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