# Carburetor Turbo DONE!



## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)

Hi all! I Have joined this forum because I built my own DIY Turbo conversion on my carburetor Nissan GA15DS.

feel free to ask questions 



mastodon said:


> Intercooler from a Opel TS
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## motoman740 (Jan 17, 2011)

Thats nice! I like that you used parts from different cars to get it done. How much did it cost you?


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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)

motoman740 said:


> Thats nice! I like that you used parts from different cars to get it done. How much did it cost you?


Thanks  total cost was R5910

Garrett M27 water cooled Turbo compressor AR43, exhaust AR40 + internal wastegate actuator = R1175 
Opel TS intercooler = R600 
Ferrolli Dumpvalve = R450 
GST electric 7-9psi Fuel pump = R230 
Carb hat = R150 
exhaust manifold = R400 
couplers = R1160 
oil feed T fitting for sensor = R20 
Oil feed, turbo in = R10 
water T fitting x 2 = R20 
dumpvalve fitting = R15 
Air filter = R170 
Manifold flange change - R80 
turbo split exhaust flange - R200 
1 meter boost pipe - Free 
2 new exhaust manifold gaskets - R50 
steel braided oil feed line - R100 
steel braided water feed and drain line - R200 
Downpipe and screamer pipe - R400 
Removed middle silencer box - R120 
Boost guage - R250 
Boost controller - R220


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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)

oh, I believe im the first person ever to do this conversion on this engine


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## JangSpeed (Jun 13, 2011)

this project is really cool brah. nice work. Any work done on the internals? when u put the electronic pump in did u leave the mechanical one? where did you get the oil and water feeds to the turbo from and where does it drain back?


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## JangSpeed (Jun 13, 2011)

i see u have red plug wires. did u upgrade ur ignition too? how much boost are u running? how much u think it could safely take?


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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)

the carb GA15 and GA16 are lower compression engines, the pistons are dished down, which is nice for a turbo setup.

the mechanical pump is still there, doing nothing, lol! 

I t-ed both water feeds from the heater core pipes, the oil feed needs to be t-ed too from the oil sensor, the oil drain goes back into the sump (the fitting into the sump needs to be high up so that the oil flows freely back)

the red on the plug wires is just a engine dress up kit (plastic hose that you put over the wires)

Im running 0.4bar boost safetly, I not going to boost more because then u have to change carbs for more fuel to compensate for the boost.


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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)




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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)




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## JangSpeed (Jun 13, 2011)

thanks alot bro. i was wondering though where are the heater lines on the engine? i put a ga15ds into my mazda 626 and i cant remember seeing the heater lines. i'm looking to turbo also but was unsure about if it could be done cause i thought it might have the engine running lean. now i see ur setup is working i'm looking to do one too. i've got a toyota ct12 turbo. u think that would be good?


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## Mastodon (Jun 21, 2010)

JangSpeed said:


> thanks alot bro. i was wondering though where are the heater lines on the engine? i put a ga15ds into my mazda 626 and i cant remember seeing the heater lines. i'm looking to turbo also but was unsure about if it could be done cause i thought it might have the engine running lean. now i see ur setup is working i'm looking to do one too. i've got a toyota ct12 turbo. u think that would be good?


The 2 heater pipes goes into the heater core in the dashboard, u must check. 
Im not running lean with 0.4bar, and I wont boost more, because these electronic carbs are sealed, u cannot change the jets, if u wanna boost more u must change to a bigger carb and let a tuner jet the carb according to the boost, then u must obviously have a decent fuel pump, remember u must always have 0.2bar more fuel pressure than boost. unfortunately 1bar fuel pressure and more will kill your carb's float needle and seat.

That turbo will work yes.


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