# Remote Starter/Alarm Install Help?



## RockyB (May 3, 2002)

I originally posted on sr20forum:http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=65123 Any help would be appreciated. Also, I want to install it tomorrow because it getting extremely cold here in CT.
Rocky


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

I'm your man. You're installing it on the B13 I assume?


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## RockyB (May 3, 2002)

toolapcfan said:


> I'm your man. You're installing it on the B13 I assume?


Hey, I've got the alarm part of the remote starter to work but I'm having trouble with the remote start part of the system. Oh yeah, it's on a b13. I followed my chart, only a few things I found different locations to tap into.
Chart:

Remote Starter:
Input/Output I Function I Wire I Location I Vechicle Wire
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
30 amp output I Starter Output I Yellow I Ignition Harness** I Black/White
30 amp output I Heater/Acc Output I Green I Ignition Harness I White/Blue
30 amp input I Power Input I Red I Ignition Harness I White
30 amp input I Power Input I Red I Ignition Harness I White
30 amp output I Selectable Output I White I Ignition Harness I Black/Yellow
30 amp output I Ignition Output I Blue I Ignition Harness I Black/Red
Alarm:
(-)250ma output I Factory Re-arm Output I Yellow I NOT USED
(-)250ma output I Trunk Release Output I Red/White I NOT USED
(-)250ma output I Factory Disarm Output I Brown I NOT USED
(-)250ma output I Starter Kill & Anti-Grind Output I Orange I Ignition Harness I Black/White
Positive output I (+) Siren Output I White/Blue I To siren
Negative input I Negative Park Brake Input I Black/White I Instrument Cluster I Yellow/Black
Positive input I Positive Door Pin Input I Purple I
Positive output I (+) 10amp Park Light Output I White I Headlight Switch/Driver Kick Panel I Red/Blue (+)
Negative input I Hood Pin Switch Input I Green/White I
Negative input I Negative Door Pin Input I Green I Driver Kick Panel I Red/White(-)
Negative input I System Ground Input I Black I Left Kick Panel I Ground L
Positive input I Brake Switch Input I Pink I @ Switch on Bracket Above Brake Pedal I Red/Green (+)
A/C input I Tach Detection Input I Blue/White I @ ECCS or Power Transistor* I Blue/Black or White
(+ or -) input I Diesel Glow Plug Input I Blue I NOT USED

* ECCS Located Below Center of Dash Behind Center Console. Tach Wire 14 Pin Connector, White @ Pin #1, Blue/Black @ Pin #2. White Only Located @ Power Transistor.
** This Vehicle is equipped with two start wires. Both must be powered in order for vehicle to start when engine is cold.
Tach wire can be tapped on Green/Yellow wire at coil.

The tach wire I tapped at the coil. The e-brake wire I tapped at the e-brake. I plugged my 6 pin power connector to the module. It states "The park light will flash and the horn will chirp 2 times to confirm power up on automatic transmission models. Manual transmission models will flash the park lights and siren 4 times to confirm power up." Well, I what the automatic trans power up. So, I disconnected the 6 pin power wire, the unit is not operated at this time. Any help is appreciated.


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

You didn't need to go to the coil to tap that wire, you could have used the blue/black wire at pin #2 on the ECU. Anyway, I can't tell what you're having problems with based on this information.


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## RockyB (May 3, 2002)

*Pissed off*



toolapcfan said:


> You didn't need to go to the coil to tap that wire, you could have used the blue/black wire at pin #2 on the ECU. Anyway, I can't tell what you're having problems with based on this information.


Very Long, Here It Goes:

Hey, after all the figuring all the wiring. I hooked up the unit yesterday and nothing. I got the alarm portion to work but no remote start. So, today during my lunch break I go to the place I bought the unit. They say they have to install it to figure out whats wrong. Well, I spent about 15-20 minute outside in the cold disconnecting all the wires. The shop hooks everything up, what a shitty job, and three hours later nothing. The freaking thing still doesn't work. They're saying the unit is fried. Mind you I'm extremely late getting back to work. They said they have to send the unit out, but will get me a replacement one tomorrow. So, I said cool, the wiring is all setup and all they now have to do is plug the new unit in tomorrow. Now, I go back to work. I haven't eaten yet and I am getting hungry. I ask the boss if I could run down to Wendy's real quick, he said ok. I went to the get food and then return to work. They gave me the wrong order, so I went back. Now, on the way back, the car stalls and won't start. They took a wire and bridged it together on the clutch switch. I thought it was that, I took the bridge out and connected it like normal and still won't start. I run to work and get one of the guys to tow my car to work. I spend about an hour to figure out what went wrong. I double check all wirings, ok. I check my relays, ok. So, I called the alarm shop, they say nothing they did would effect the car from running or starting. My manager now suggest me to pull out all the remote starter wiring, I did it and still won't start. I then try to pop start the car which works. So, I pulled my starter out and bench test it. The starter gear come out but doesn't spin. I now have to wait until tomorrow for a starter. I hope that is the cause for the car not to start.

In conclusion; I'm out of $50 for the install. I pulled out the remote starter wires, which now has to be put back. I now needs to buy a starter and to top it off my lunch I got was wrong again.

What I need to do is re-install the remote starter and alarm wires. The list of wires and location I made should be correct. I need help on the clutch bypass. Also, on the second ignition wire the car has and the tach wire location. To be safe, what is the best way to make sure the unit doesn't get fried?
Rocky


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

I'm sorry it's been such a hassle. I'll get it figured out for you on Wednesday.


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