# Driveshaft support bearing completely blown out



## huntercook (Jan 29, 2006)

So I was getting a light rattle for a while and then heard a pop and a LOUD grinding. Decided to pull over and check it out and to my surprise I had completely torn all the rubber out of the bushing for the center support bearing on my drive shaft. If you don't know what this is, think of an engine mount.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

huntercook said:


> So I was getting a light rattle for a while and then heard a pop and a LOUD grinding. Decided to pull over and check it out and to my surprise I had completely torn all the rubber out of the bushing for the center support bearing on my drive shaft. If you don't know what this is, think of an engine mount.


Yikes! That looks nasty. How many miles does the truck have?
Is the bearing pressed onto the yoke? Does that yoke mesh with splines inside the other driveshaft?


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## huntercook (Jan 29, 2006)

The truck has 81,250 on it. I'm almost positive that the bearing is pressed on. I have no idea how I'm going to replace this. No autoparts store I've called has it.


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## SD Frontier (Oct 17, 2005)

huntercook said:


> The truck has 81,250 on it. I'm almost positive that the bearing is pressed on. I have no idea how I'm going to replace this. No autoparts store I've called has it.


this happened to my last truck ('96 Ranger). i was lucky that it happened one block from the shop i usually went to. they were able to get the part and fix it within a day. i dont recall the price of the part nor how much i paid for it.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

huntercook said:


> The truck has 81,250 on it. I'm almost positive that the bearing is pressed on. I have no idea how I'm going to replace this. No autoparts store I've called has it.


Have you called the dealership? Sometimes (hopefully in this case too) they can actually have a reasonable price.


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## PhxFrontier (Jun 30, 2006)

*Carrier bearing blowout*

Mine went out this week. No auto parts store carried the part so I had to go to dealer. $313.00 later I have a new bearing with the attached rubber housing. I have pulled the driveshaft, unbolting everything including the 15/16ths nut that holds it on to the front halfshaft. But I cant get the half u-joint and bearing off, even with a puller. Did you find that it is machine pressed on? 
That means more downtime and a trip to a driveshaft shop.
Please let me know how you fixed the problem.
This truck is 2000 Crew Cab 4X4 with 104,000 miles.


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## pdxfj (Apr 7, 2006)

OUCH!

Although it looks like that bearing needs grease fitting on it. I hate things that are not serviceable. Think of how much longer it could have lasted if you could pump some fresh grease in there every oil change. 80+k miles on a sealed bearing subjected to rather harsh conditions is just asking for trouble.

My Dakota's upper ball joints were sealed. They both went bad around 40k miles. Had them replaced with serviceable ones. Then I knew they were getting fresh fat in there every time I changed the oil.


Here's wishing you the best of luck fixing it.


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## terd (Mar 9, 2005)

I am going to attempt to wrap the bearing with 1/4 inch neoprene rubber strips which will be held in with hose clamps. I only need it to last a year. Basically you only need to replace the rubber right?


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## ChuckFrontier06 (Jul 25, 2006)

_*Looks pretty rusted under there. I had 165,000 on my 95 KC when I sold it and never had any problem with the support bearing.*_


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## BTF/PTM (Oct 19, 2006)

So does the whole rubber coated bearing spin in that metal housing now? That's gotta be ungodly thumpy n rattly and bad for the drive shaft. I'm gonna see if I can put a zerk fitting on mine.


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## Oldnissanguy (Jan 6, 2005)

This is the carrier bearing and you need to replace it. Any shop that does driveshafts can fix it or a dealership.


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## nissanmadness (Sep 18, 2006)

The carrier bearing can be replaced on the drive shaft. It doesn't have to be pressed off or on. It can be replaced with a hammer and a proper driver and some know how. If you split the shaft to redo it, don't forget to phase or time your drive shaft yokes or you will have one hell of a vibration. If your not sure, then let a shop deal with it.


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## ChuckFrontier06 (Jul 25, 2006)

nissanmadness said:


> The carrier bearing can be replaced on the drive shaft. It doesn't have to be pressed off or on. It can be replaced with a hammer and a proper driver and some know how. If you split the shaft to redo it, don't forget to phase or time your drive shaft yokes or you will have one hell of a vibration. If your not sure, then let a shop deal with it.


_*I would hope it was fixed a long time ago since this thread was posted last January.*_


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## nissanmadness (Sep 18, 2006)

ChuckFrontier06 said:


> _*I would hope it was fixed a long time ago since this thread was posted last January.*_


Damn, this is the second time this has happened. It helps to open ones eyes. LOL!


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## Oldnissanguy (Jan 6, 2005)

Actually terd jumped into the thread with what I assumed was a new question to the same problem. Hopefully he got some help from the responses.


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## ChuckFrontier06 (Jul 25, 2006)

Oldnissanguy said:


> Actually terd jumped into the thread with what I assumed was a new question to the same problem. Hopefully he got some help from the responses.



_*In that case. I have only seen a complete assembly with these types of bearings. I have not seen the rubber itself sold as an individual part. Most likely it will consist of the metal loop with the rubber and bearing all mounted together and you bolt the whole assembly to the crossmember.*_


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

since this is an old thread, ill just post what i know since it may actually help someone...
im not sure what the main difference is between a frontier and a hardbody, but a good buddy of mine had a problem with his d/s on his lifted hardbody so he had it replaced with a 1 piece driveshaft with no more carrier bearing. the driveshaft shop, i believe it was Precision Driveshaft said thats a common fix/upgrade on the nissans. my buddy said his truck has never felt so solid. all vibrations that he used to have are now gone. theres also less parts to break. maybe this could help you guys...


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## timstich (Apr 23, 2008)

*Been driving on a destroyed center support bearing for over six months*

For what it is worth, if you were wondering how long you can drive on a support bearing like the one depicted in the beginning of the thread, I have been driving on mine for over six months now. The rubber is completely separated and it clunks loudly when hitting bumps. On the highway it makes no appreciable noise. When funds allow, I'll repair it. So no need to panic if this component fails on you. One can limp along for quite a while apparently.


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## Louis138 (Nov 19, 2007)

I replaced mine early to avoid problems. Autozone.com shipped it to me for about $70, if I remember right. I replaced it using a bench vise, hammer, and an impact driver. Overall, pretty easy driveway fix in a couple of hours tops.


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## timstich (Apr 23, 2008)

$70? What year and model do you have? I have a V6 4 X 4, so the part is more expensive. More like $300 from what I can find.


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## Louis138 (Nov 19, 2007)

I had a 1993 D21 2.4L 4x4 5-speed. I believe I bought the $39.99 one and it fit fine and cured the 35-40mph vibration I was having due to a deteriorated rubber bearing isolator. Go to AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year. I didn't see that part when I looked for my 1999 Frontier, but they look the same as far as I can tell.


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## XE_KING (May 5, 2008)

Is this for the front driveshaft? or do the longer body style trucks have a different driveline in them?


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## Louis138 (Nov 19, 2007)

Rear driveshaft on a King Cab truck


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## timstich (Apr 23, 2008)

*Center support bearing*

I found a local drive shaft place in the Springs that replaced my bearing for a mere $150, with the part being $96. A vast improvement from Nissan's part prices.


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## slr_will (Sep 12, 2008)

I think mines on its way out too...i lowered the truck and now whenever i take off there's a slight studder. I have to check it still but i hope i dont get this problem...it looks pretty nasty.

Good luck fixin it!


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## woodb01 (Apr 16, 2009)

*Carrier Bearing - tips and tricks on replacement...*

*You definitely want to replace bad carrier bearings before you end up having to replace worn out U-Joints (from excessive binding and flexing) and before you have to replace transmission or rear-end bearings. That can be very, very painful and expensive.*

I've had to replace 2 of these things. 1 was on a 1987 Hardbody 4x4 and the other on a 92 pathfinder (2wd).

To replace them they are a ROYAL PAIN in the backside. They end up being pressed on because of the significant amount of torque requirement to bolt down the yolk. 

Here is what I learned in the process. If you can do it yourself, then do it! Also, when you separate the drive line, because it is a 2 peice, MAKE SURE YOU MARK IT! The splines MUST go back into the same location or the drive shaft may not be properly balanced and you could end up with a lot of vibration at higher road speeds (above 45 - 50 mph).

Also, when replacing them, mine had 2 or 3 slots in them (it's been several years ago). Go to HomeDepot and buy some 100% pure SILICONE caulking. Put a good squirt of silicone in each of the holes but don't fill the entire void. Let it cure for at least 48 hours. As a result they will last MUCH longer.

However, the flexibility in the stock rubber carrier helps to give it more of a smooth, car-like ride but the carrier bearing itself works well to help distribute some of the stresses and loads on a truck. Especially a 4x4. 

If you put the silicone in and let it cure properly it will not be as flexible, but it will be much more durable. As long as your drive shaft is well-balanced it will help with any off roading or heavy duty hauling. 

Good luck if you take it on yourself. I never had a dealer or garage do mine, but if you did you can STILL use the silicone to support it but you will not be able to drive it for 2 or 3 days. 

To do that, just unbolt the carrier bearing from the mount and it will easily rotate. Put the silicone in the holes and then let it sit UNMOUNTED for 2 -3 days to cure. Then mount it back in. You want it unmounted to take the weight / load off the rubber carrier while the silicone is curing. That way it cures evenly without a "squat" position in it.

Those are my suggestions besed on my experience. Use them at your own risk and good luck!

2008 Red Nismo Crew Cab 4x4
2.5" lift / leveling kit.


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## UCFKnight2009 (Apr 3, 2010)

*Update (also necropost)*

Let me start by saying that I'm not trying to bring a thread back from the dead; and I know this will be a bit long-winded. That being said, I recently had to replace the center support bearing in my 1998 Frontier 4x4 King Cab, and I came across this thread in my process of researching / locating my part. I only want to help others who will inevitably run into the same problem. 

Like many of you, I had a very difficult time locating a replacement part. No local parts houses or junkyards seemed to have one, and I was not looking forward to paying the nearly $300 the Dealership was asking. They also said that I would need to replace the entire front driveshaft, which was false. 

For anyone who may be having trouble locating this part, the Nissan part number for the 4WD version is #37521-VJ525. and like I said, it lists for around 300 bucks. After many hours of independant research, I was able to locate an aftermarket bearing for the RWD models for less than $100--a considerable difference to say the least. 

For those who might be considering this route, there is a small *caveat:* the bracket is not included. Also, the outer diameter of the bearing is slightly smaller than the original. We were able to get around this easily enough though. Simply cut the old rubber out of the existing bracket, leaving approximately 1 cm all the way around. Trim the old rubber out as necessary. It worked like a charm for us, taking only about 1-2 hours in the driveway with correct tools (air hammer/ air chisel highly recommended for removing the inner race from the driveshaft). Also don't forget to mark your driveshafts, otherwise, like stated before, you will get a vibration. 

My replacement part was a Timken bearing, part number HB6 for those who are interested in saving some money. In total, this method only set me back about $100 with shipping. Though I did see that the website where I picked my bearing up from raised their price on the item already even from when I bought mine (only a week or so ago at the time of this post). 

I hope this helps people, as I was in desperate search and only by chance found the aftermarket bearing. I took a gamble knowing it was for RWD and not 4WD, but it was well worth it, as it worked out perfectly. Truck drives like a champ now.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

my boss replaced his two-piece shaft with a single piece shaft from dicks driveshaft here in phx and loves it. no vibes and strong as shit. its what im doing in my 240 and its what i recommend for you truck guys too.


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## gdhenke (Apr 16, 2010)

*2000 nissan frontier 4wd crew cab drive shaft bearing*

For all who care, I just replaced the drive shaft support bearing in my 2000 frontier 4wd crew cab.....it was easy..... and you dont have to get the one listed for this model truck... which is at least $240. I got one from RockAuto to fit a 1994 NISSAN D21 PICKUP 3.0L 2960cc V6 MFI (H) [VG30E] SOHC and it is EXACTLY THE SAME and cost $77 plus shipping!!! Trust me and save some money!!


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## HawaiiBrewer (Jan 7, 2012)

*Carrier Bearing 1998 Frontier Installation*

Thanks to the help from everyone who contributed to this thread I just changed my carrier bearing and the hardest part was breaking loose the bolts on the driveshaft/differential. If you think it is hard finding the bearing at auto supply stores, try finding one in Hawaii.....no chance. Once I had those free, the project took less than 2 hours. I had been given the same story as related here by the local Nissan dealer that I'd have to order the entire front shaft "kit" for $360.00 and pay them $100.00 to install it. Thanks to this thread I chose to order the OEM part number 37521-VJ525 from EverythingNissan.com. for $220.00 delivered in 3 days from the time I ordered. A rip-off for such a simple part. Next time I may try the Timken HB6 part as noted in the above thread. I felt since it was my first time doing this I'd use the OEM part to minimize any issues with getting the bracket to fit properly.

As it turned out, I was able to easily remove the yoke and old bearing from the shaft with a gear puller I borrowed from work. I had lined up a local shop to press on the new bearing but it came off so easily with the gear puller I chose to install the new bearing myself using a piece of 1x 6 board with a hole drilled in it to slip over the shaft and give a nice "soft" uniform surface to pound on the new bearing. The bearing went on easily and the new nut and washer supplied with the new bearing completed the tight installation to the shaft.

This thread an photos saved me big bucks here in Hawaii where any auto repair is much more costly than the mainland.

Aloha........:givebeer:


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## nissan11 (Jun 19, 2012)

UCFKnight2009 said:


> Let me start by saying that I'm not trying to bring a thread back from the dead; and I know this will be a bit long-winded. That being said, I recently had to replace the center support bearing in my 1998 Frontier 4x4 King Cab, and I came across this thread in my process of researching / locating my part. I only want to help others who will inevitably run into the same problem.
> 
> Like many of you, I had a very difficult time locating a replacement part. No local parts houses or junkyards seemed to have one, and I was not looking forward to paying the nearly $300 the Dealership was asking. They also said that I would need to replace the entire front driveshaft, which was false.
> 
> ...



First of all, I want to say this is a great thread, sorry to be a thread miner but I need to resurect this baby.



The above post is the one I have been searching for for days! Here is my bearing on my 4x4 crew cab long bed. Ive been driving with it like this for about 40k miles.













I also spent much time searching for a new bearing but the cheapest 4x4 bearing I found was $212 from courtesy auto parts. On accident, I purchased THIS bearing for $35 for a 2x4 model. 












After ordering, I discovered from other people's experiences online that 2x4 bearings will not fit properly and vibrate into a million pieces on 4x4 trucks. MY idea was to use JB weld to put 2 small metal tabs on the outside of this 2x4 bearing to keep it from spinning in the clamp. But after reading that post, I will just do the same and reuse some of the rubber from the old bearing. My problem, however is that I stripped 2 of the 8mm bolts holding the u joint together and dont know how Im going to get them out.


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## nissan11 (Jun 19, 2012)

I got the new bearing in today. Surprisingly, this 2x4 bearing was the EXACT same size as the old bearing so I didnt need to use any rubber. Its clamped down and all thats left to do is I need to buy 4 new u joint bolts because I stripped the old ones removing them. 


Old bearing














New bearing in the carrier clamp.














Here is the bearing....


DEA A6000 Center Bearing | Auto Parts Warehouse




I will post back in 3k miles with an update.


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## nissan11 (Jun 19, 2012)

I got everything together this morning and went for a test drive. After 3 miles I started to hear metal on metal whistling/grinding. I went home and knew I had to remove the carrier bearing. Unfortunately, this cannot be done without destroying the bearing. When I removed the shaft and spun the bearing by hand I could hear the grinding. After removing the bearing I discovered the front spacer had broken off. The measurements were the exact same as the stock bearing. I don't know what to do now. I can order another $35 bearing or a $235 4x4 bearing and take a HUGE risk that the same thing happens and I won't be able to remove the bearing again.


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## nissan11 (Jun 19, 2012)

I picked up a HB6 bearing from a 95 hard body, then I took it back. Obviously, its not going to work.















I think I have figured out the issue though. The measurements of the $35 2x4 bearing are the exact same as the $215 4x4 bearing, with two differences.....these little guys. 














These came off my factory bearing and none of the 2x4 models have them. Unfortinately, there is no way to get them wthout buying the expensive bearing. 

Fortunately for me (if Im right) my factory rubber rings for the spacers are in good shape. Im confident enough to order another $35 bearing and put these on it. Im still not sure how they make a difference since once over the spacers they take up MORE room than without them, and without them they were grinding on something. I will report back with my 109876th consecutive reply to this thread.


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## nissan11 (Jun 19, 2012)

OK, Im an idiot. Here is the difference between the 2x4 and 4x4 bearing. The inside of the 4x4 bearing has rubber bushings on both sides of the bearing.














Time to order a $215 bearing.


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## radarshop (Sep 29, 2013)

*94 nissan support bearing*

I have a 94 extended cab VG30 4x4. I took driveline in to driveline shop had them install the bearing, u joints and ballance drive line over 1 year ago. It keeps going out. They have put 3 of them on. The aftermarket ones are very loose. I can shake the driveline and the rubber part moves easy. Not like that on my big truck, very solid. Also vibrates taking off then runs great at all speeds. Any recomendations on a good aftermarket bearing? Have to pull drive line again for the 4th time. Have had this truck since new and runs beautiful. 395000 miles on it. One clutch and just did breaks for 2nd time, havent turned rotors and runs like new. 18 mpg. Original exaust too. Love it. Mostly freeway miles 50 mile trips.
Shop only charges $39 to press new ones on. Hope this last longer than 6 months like the others. The factory one lasted 18 years.
Nissan wants over $500 bucks to do the job.
Part Number is C7521-56G27 $171 PLUS TAX


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I would stick with the genuine Nissan part; they are better quality and the difference in price will be less in the long run if you keep having to replace the aftermarket junk. Also, C7521-56G27 sells for $107 at 1st AAA Nissan Parts Store


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## phil2 (Apr 19, 2015)

Hey guys, so I had the same issue with my 2004 Frontier 4x4. I decided to buy a $25 bearing from Amazon. This thing fit perfectly and I put about 100 miles on it on the interstate with zero issues. There is also NO play when the bushing is inserted into the bracket. I did have to reuse the 2 dust covers from the original bearing, but I just cleaned them up and slipped them over the new bearing. We packed the new bearing with grease as well, so it shouldn't run dry over the years. Will post pictures.

Title of part on Amazon: DEA A6009 Drive Shaft Center Support
Link:Amazon.com: DEA A6009 Drive Shaft Center Support: Automotive


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## CaptainSuds (Jul 31, 2015)

My '92 Nissan KC is on its 5th carrier bearing. Vehicle is 4x4, 5 speed. No off road driving of hot rodding. Each time, after initial problems, I have gone to a driveshaft specialist. now it seems that the u-joints were not properly alternated last time, about 10K miles ago. Hard part to find, unavailable at NAPA but avail from Carquest. Is this found to be a common problem on this model? Any suggestions for extending its life? Signed CaptainSuds


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## mr.monalinda (11 mo ago)

Louis138 said:


> Rear driveshaft on a King Cab truck


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## mr.monalinda (11 mo ago)

Springs as in Palm Springs or? I have replaced Motor mounts, springs, shocks, checked and rechecked the tires, rims, changed the tranny oil and nothing weird in there, new brakes. When I de celerate, at 15mph it starts to shimmy after a second of grabbing and quickly releasing- then a shimmy and gone. I have not tried up and down a hill in neutral yet. The car has under 75000 miles on it. The motor mount helped tremendously in fixing the shimmy when accelerating but its not all gone yet. I have only had it 4 months! The quick grab to shimmy is subtle nut there. No I am not seeking perfection simply no shimmy like hitting the blind ada bumps when you exit the market....uncomfortable.


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