# 95 Nissan Pickup starter issues



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

I have a 95 Nissan XE Pickup. I have been having a slow cranking starter for about 1.5 years now. I have replaced the starter twice, checked the timing, replaced the Clutch Relay, Negative battery cable, and had the battery checked.
New spark plugs and wires.

However, when I changed the spark plug wires I noticed that the wire leading to cylinder #4 had corroded away and was not making any connection to the actual spark plug. This corrosion happened at the distributor cap.

When I adjusted the timing it was initially on TDC so I put it back to factory specs. It seems the starter got worse.

Battery has been checked and appears to be ok.

When the timing it adjusted to TDC (or that mark on the pulley) it seems to start on every crank, however the engine is very sluggish. W

With the timing set correctly it runs perfect, just needs help starting, mostly when hot.

I am going to install a new clutch safety switch (or whatever its called) that above the clutch pedal.

Any thoughts? Positive cable?, if so is this replacement difficult, I haven't found any write up about it, I am worried about not being able to properly reconnect the fuseable links. 

I am at a loss....Help.

Thanks!


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

what is the mileage?

have the starter checked again..

there is also a starter relay..

there is no fusible link for the starter..


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

I didn't think there was a fuseable link that was associate with the starter, I was thinking the problem was the positive cable, and I was curious how big of a pain it would be to replace. The positive cable from Nissan is like $189 I didn't know if I could get by with a non OEM cable.

The starter relay should be on the passenger side of the engine compartment right? However I thought it was labeled clutch safety relay. Am I look at the wrong one?

How could this be another bad starter?
When the timing is retarded too far, it starts everytime like a champ. Its just the engine doesn't perform.

This doesn't add up to me, plus every mechanic has given me a different situation.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you can get a pos bat cable at any auto parts store..

what is the mileage ?

the relay is to the rear of the bat and in front of the relay box..

it is a doube blue..

it could be a bad starter ..have it checked


----------



## CalHvyMetl (Dec 4, 2006)

Don't worry about getting the OEM cable. I can't use the OEM cable because of the added electronics ( 2 amps, Viper security ). The only advantage to the OEM is it's lack of contact points where corrosion can occure. Just get the correct length and gauge red cable and add the right bolt on ends and you'll be fine. You just have to use baking soda in water and a toothbrush, and occasionally unbolt the ends and wire brush them.


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Don't waste your money and time on the clutch switch or relay. Those parts either work or they don't. They will not cause a slow crank.

is the engine overheating at all?


----------



## herrry.orason (Apr 10, 2010)

The starter is there under the intake manifold and held on with two 14 mm headed long bolts from the front top and bottom bolt fron the back side transmission side. A couple 3" extensions and 14mm socket and bloody knuckles. You will have the feeling of a mechanic. Just disconnect the battery first 10mm battery clamp. The battery terminal at the starter is a 12mm nut and don't forget to reconnect the battery ground under the starter bolt from the back side.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

he has replaced the starter twice before ..


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

Well it has started right up everytime today.

I have replaced the starter 2x. It seems that when the engine has been running for 30 min or more then it will have a slow cranking issue.

When it cools, it acts like nothing ever happened. Cranks fine.

I have just read before that the starter relay or the cluch switch could cause the problem but with the heat issue, I didn't think those parts would matter.

with the timing retarded a lot it starters with no problem heat or not.

??


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

what are the miles on the odometer ??


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

It just hit 150k


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

now consider that the manufacturers recomendation that the t-chain be repalced around 120 k miles or so..

is your engine ratteling upon start up..?

with slop in the t- chain (as it sits) it could be causing the starter to drag from being slightly out of time..

do you know the history of your present timing chain ??


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

Yes, I was thinking about doing the timing chain, however I am currently seeking to sell this truck to get another vehicle.

There is a rattle when cold, lasts for about 30 seconds, then stops. Happens about once per day, I figured it was the timing chain tensioner.

Although, the starting issue happened again today, after the engine was good and hot, I sat in a parking lot with the truck running for about 15 minutes, the temp gauge was a little over halfway. I shut it off to see how it would react, and behold, it didn't want to turn over. Once the engine cooled for another 15 minutes it started ok.

While starting that time I did notice the oil light flicker once...maybe twice..thats something I didn't ever notice it doing before.

Possible bad oil pump? Maybe when the engine is really hot, the oil pump is effecting the starting?


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

I have noticed that when the truck is in gear and I push on the accelerator I get a ticking that seems to correspond to the rpms. At idle it is silent. Sometimes I don't get this ticking, sometimes I do...could this also be an oil pump failure on its way?

I sure probably hook up a gauge to check the oil pump.

Thanks for helping everyone, hopefully I can fix this issue so the next owner won't have any issues except to replace the timing chain soon.


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

what brand of starters are you installing?


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

The way you describe the ticking it sounds more like an exhaust leak. I wouldn't think you have a problem with your oil pump unless the light is coming on while the engine is running.
Are you installing after-market starters? If so where from?


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

Yep aftermarket starters, I bought one from Pep Boys the first time, then the most recent one was from Central Auto parts. I don't know the brands.

I do know that the most recent one I purchased was recommended to me by a local shop, and it cost almost twice as much as the last one.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

imo this is all from the t-chain.

the t-chain is out of whack because the t-chain guides are broke or gone and the t-chain is slapping around ..as it gets hot it is even more out so making the oil light flicker on low idle..

there is nothing wrong with the oil pump or the starter..

you need a t-chain and or timing chain guides.. do it sooner more than later as other damge may occur..

i e..a hole is worn intothe back of the timing chain cover into water pump chamber..

and or the timing chain skips or breaks and causing bent valves or a hole in the piston..

now it wil cost you the t-chain set later head gasket and more...


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

While I strongly agree that if the t-chain is ratteling, it needs to be replaced before it causes further damage......

It absolutley will not cause problems with oil pressure and it would only cause slow cranking if it actually jumped a tooth or more.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

lol.......


----------



## handyr (Feb 15, 2010)

So I was having some similiar issues on my '94. Starter would work / not work depending on its mood. After replacing all of the obvious stuff (battery, cable, starter 2x). I went inside the cab and started poking around with a multimeter. 

Eventually I realize my ignition lock cylinder had about ~50 ohms of resistance on the starter wire. After replacing the ignition cylinder (its inside the steering arm column, not where the key goes into the metal, but on the other end after the key goes through the metal lock cylinder it sits into this piece about 5mm.)

After replacing that, I haven't had a problem since.


----------



## Lucid666 (Mar 22, 2010)

Can you give me details on how to test and which part to replace?

I have a good multimeter, I am unsure of how to test it and where..

Thanks


----------



## tomit (Jul 2, 2004)

Sorry about your problems. I would check the voltage at the starter when it is cranking and compare it with manufacturer's specs (not sure where to find that data).

Can't remember it the engine needs a body ground or not, but if it does, then check that.

When my '95 XE had an old battery, it would crank slowly when cold and barely turn over when warm, so a warm engine seems to have a greater load.

Good luck.

Tom


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

update us please...


----------



## w9bna (Oct 11, 2011)

Bump.
How about a part number or where you bought the replacement "switch" and what it was called.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The part he's refering to is called the "ignition switch," which is available seperately or as part of the ignition lock assy. (obviouslyy, if the key turns fine in the ignition lock, you'll just need the switch). You can get them from Nissan or the aftermarket. Beck/Arnley, Standard Motor Products and AC Delco all make it. Rockauto.com has them for about $27 and if you look it up, there's a picture of it. Any auto parts store should be able to get it for you and may even stock it.


----------



## outtactrl (Nov 1, 2015)

*Fighting this for years*

I have a 1995 Nissan XE 2.4L 4WD 120k miles. When temps. in 40s or below outside starter will not engage. You can here the solenoid trying to turn slowly. each time i have to turn the switch off and back on . Eventually it will engage the starter an it will fire like there is nothing wrong. the colder it is outside the worse the problem. Starter was replaced a couple years ago because of the same problem. As soon as the weather changed the problem came back. Relay was changed, plugs cap and rotor etc... I am convinced this is a starter issue. I have read the thread in this forum and i have a ground strap on starter to body. Seems like i read some where a couple of years ago that the solenoids were the problem with condensation. I need some help on this, been dealing with it for over a decade.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It could be a starter solenoid issue. That said, I would have the battery tested and check the battery cables and connections. High resistance could cause this issue as well. As far as Nissan starters, experience as a Nissan tech makes me avoid using aftermarket starters and alternators whenever possible; the genuine Nissan reman. replacements are more expensive, but are of much better quality and save a lot of headaches.


----------



## outtactrl (Nov 1, 2015)

yes i had battery checked replaced a negative cable. Battery is quite new I replace it after the starter for more crank amps. I think i'm gonna look for a Nissan starter. I have heard before that after markets were a problem. Thank you for your reply.


----------

