# Trying to remove the OEM Bose/Sat Stereo



## D'z (Sep 19, 2005)

Hey guys,
New to the board. I've had my SE-R about 2 weeks now, more on all the background later.

I've got the Bose 6 Disc Changer and Sat ready OEM stereo. There are 5 connections on the back of it. I believe they are for: 1) FM Antenna 2) Front Speakers/Power 3) Rear Speakers 4)? 5)?

I did NOT get the XM receiver/antenna as I was planning on removing the OEM stereo and hooking up my Sony CDX-F7715X CD/MP3/XM radio that I had in my last car. I've got the XM Direct receiver, XM antenna and Sony XM Direct adapter, also from my last car. (Why spend $350 on another Xm receiver/antenna, when I've already got it, right?) I've also got the Nissan female harness that connects to 2 and 3 above, as well as the Nissan installation kit that fits pefectly in the OEM position and holds my Sony and has a pocket space below it.

Problem 1) I hooked everything up properly, but there was no place to connect 4 and 5 above. Upon turning on the car, the Sony powered up just fine, but there was no sound from any sources (FM or XM...didn't try the CD...figured it was moot). I may have connected something bass-akwards, but I doubt it, I'll check this over later this weekend. Wondering if 4 and 5 are prohibiting something?

Problem 2) The steering controls didn't work for the stereo...which I assumed would happen (looking at the PAC SWI-PS kit which will plug directly into my SONY, while the other side will connect some how to the SWC (Steering Wheel Controls)...once I figure out which wires are the right ones. The thing I did NOT expect, was that the TRIP button on my steering wheel also didn't work. Not sure if the Cruise control buttons worked...didn't take it out. This leads me to believe that either 4 or 5 above has something to do with that as well. More work this weekend.

What I'm really looking for is the wiring diagram to WTF connectors 4 and 5 are for. I'm assuming it's a combo of the pre-wired SAT stuff and the SWCs? Anyone know?

Anyone have the OEM stereo with Sat controls and successful swap it out for an aftermarket?

Because I know someone will ask, here are the reasons I'd like to swap out the OEM stereo:
- Don't want to pay $350 for XM install
- XM 'Title' line is only 1 line and that doesn't scroll
- No MP3 capability (1 CD full of MP3's = 10 CD changer)
- EQ7 controls on the SONY

any suggestions would be great. Thanx!!

~D'z


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## D'z (Sep 19, 2005)

*...getting there...*

Starting to learn more about this stereo.

It's a OEM Bose w/amplifier (in the trunk) and has SAT controls.
There are 6 pin, 10 pin, 16 pin and 12 pin connectors, along with the antenna connection.

The 6 pin is the Rear Speakers and Power to the amp.

The 10 pin is the Front Speakers and Head Unit (HU) power. 

The 16 pin only has 3 wires connected to it, which is for the Steering Wheel Controls (SWC) and consequently if not connected, will not allow the audio controls, including the TRIP button, to work. It also appears to be what would be controlling the Nav/GPS if there was one installed and any hands free Telephone features as well.

The 12 pin, I'm still not sure what it's for. It's got wires to Lin+/-, Rin+/-, Tx, Rx and REQ and Grnd. I'm guessing it has something to do with the Speed Sensative volume and gains the volume to the Lin/Rin based on what it receives from the computer? If it's unplugged, everything still works...not sure about the Speed/Volume thingy though as I didn't drive it around.

I've purchased a 2005 Nissan Altima Service Manual (CD) and should get that shortly, and I'll be able to see exactly how this beast is setup. I'll continue to document this so others can connect their aftermarket HU, while keeping the Bose Amplifier. Also, I'll be adding the XM and reconnecting the SWC's, which should be straight forward.

Right now, I'm looking into the ROEM-NIS2 connector. Apparently that will allow me to hook the 6 and 10 pin wires to a converter, which bumps the voltage up so the Bose Amp can detect the signal. We'll see!!


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## D'z (Sep 19, 2005)

*Done & Done!*

Alright, here's the low down. If you want to install an aftermarket head unit (HU) and keep the 150 Watt Bose Amp you'll need several things:

-Nissan Installation Kit (Holds your new stereo into your Dash) $20
- PAC ROEM-NIS2 Interface (or NISAH4) (gains your aftermarket HU up so the Bose Amp can use the signal) $50
-Aftermarket speaker harness (should come with your HU)(free/$10) 

If you want to keep your steering wheel controls (SWC), you'll need:
- PAC SWI-X or brand specific controller (Sony - PAC SWI-PS) $50

The install kit fits perfectly and snuggly. Attach the ROEM to the brand specific harness and plug the ROEM harness into the 6 and 10pin speaker harness (which routes directly to the amp in the trunk.) You may need to adjust the individual channels with a small phillips head driver. Before making the needed adjust ment, my volume, even at it's lowest setting was pretty loud and I could barely turn the volume up past 5 or 6 notches lest I blow out my speakers! I turned all the adjustments left 1/4 turn so all the "arrows" were facing 9:00.

From there I used the existing XM Direct receiver (Cruthfield) and Sony XM Direct adapter to plug directly into the Sony HU L/R audio Aux and Bus.
I temporarily dislocated the antenna connector from it's pink housing so I could snake the XM antenna wire down through a crack at the center for the front dash (near the defrosting vents) and down to behind the HU. 


The PAC SWI-PS had great instructions with it and tells you which wires in your car are for the SWC (in the Altima's case it was the 16pin connector that had the Green, Red/White and Blue wires on it. The PAC kit came with several resistors to use as needed. There is a 1/4" jack on the opposite side of the PAC that plugs into a wired remote jack on your HU ifyou have one. Otherwise, you'll want to get the PAC SWI-X, which has an IR sensor that you need to place somewhere within direct line of sight of your aftermarket HU. The programming of the PAC kit went smoothly, and in no time the Sony was responding to all of the Steering Wheel Controls properly, including the Trip button, which will not work unless the blue wire is grounded. The buttons do however need to be held down slightly longer than normal, but this doesn't take much to ge use to.

There is plenty of room behind the aftermarket head unit for the XM reciever, XM Sony Adapter, PAC SWI-PS and the PAC ROEM, and all the harness shizzle too.

I've got pics and will figure out where to post them later. Everything works like a champ!!!

I did not connect the 12 pin connector to anything. I may be losing the Speed sensative volume adjustment feature, but as far as I could tell, it didn't do much for me that I could tell anyways.

I ended up getting the Nissan Altima 2005 SE-R Service Manual on CD as well. They are all PDF files and will be very helpful in the future! I'm thinking about re-burning the CD though, to consolidate it a little better like the way my Dodge Stealth Service Manual was.

Hope this helps some of you out there!

~D


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## 97J30Tampa (Jan 16, 2006)

I am trying to install a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder Bose 6 disc in-dash changer in my 1997 Infiniti J30. They have exactly the same plugs, but the wiring is different.

The amp turn-on signal is not giving any power to turn my Bose amps on. When I jump a hot wire to the amp turn-on signal lead everything works properly.

Do you have a wiring diagram of the radio you have? It sounds like they are all the same plugs I have on the back of my radio.

Here is a diagram of my current wiring harness in my J30:

http://www.carstereohelp.net/wireharness_Infiniti2.htm

On the diagram "K" has no power output.

Thanks in advance.


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## jayrhine (Jun 25, 2006)

*Getting "trip" button to work with an aftermarket radion in a Nissan Altima 2002*

I have a Nissan Altima 2002 SL without the Bose Stereo. I just had a Sony CDX-GT300 professionally installed by Circuit City (where I bought the radio). Just like D'z I was quite surprised to find that the trip button was useless after the installation. Not surprisingly the technicians at Circuit City had no idea what had happened. Taking my cue from this thread, I popped opened the dash and found the 16 pin connector that was not connect to the sony. In my case, there were 4 wires instead of 3. However, I simply grounded the blue wire as suggested, and it worked perfectly! I did not notice the trip button taking longer to work. This may be a difference between the year of the car, or the fact that I did not use a PAC SWI-PS. Anyway, I just wanted to put this information out there so that other people with this issue would know that this can be easily fixed with different years of the altima. Also, I wanted to prevent people from going out and paying $50 for the PAC SWI-PS unless they actually wanted to use the volume / mode buttons to control their stereos.

Good luck to everyone out there!


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