# Please help 2!!!!!!!!!



## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

now i am working on the car aggain.........still can't start......i checked on the timing of ignition and the firing order...everything is okay...but there is a problem now....when i crank the motor it turns...but it back fires in the cylinder......then i will hear an explode sound from the intake manifold.........then nothing comes out but gas smokes.........first i think probably the sparks are not getting in the chamber to make the ignition...but after i unplug the fuel pump fuse the smoke comes out more and more......the backfire exploding sound gets louder and louder....even with out fuel the gas smoke comes out from the intake manifold........i followed the factory service manual to check on components....everything seems to be fine expect one thing fails which is the power transistor.......i did the ohm test it shows on ng according to the service manual...is that the cause of all these problems i am having now???please help me!!!!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The ignition is working because it is backfiring. However either the ignition timing or the cam timing is off. Between the time the motor ran fine and when it failed to run, what changes do you make?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

just worked on the timing and finished it up.......the timing is now stockbased...but still can't start.....the spark plugs are wet covered with gas......but i figured that gas probably is too old or something because i use a lighter to light the wet plug it didn't light up....can it be bad gas cause it not to start? i poured in some 93 gas into the tank again and also put some start fluid in the intake to help it start....but still.....after a huge bang of backfire then nothing happens......just lots of gas smoke comes out....please help me out!!!!!


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> just worked on the timing and finished it up.......the timing is now stockbased...but still can't start.....the spark plugs are wet covered with gas......but i figured that gas probably is too old or something because i use a lighter to light the wet plug it didn't light up....can it be bad gas cause it not to start? i poured in some 93 gas into the tank again and also put some start fluid in the intake to help it start....but still.....after a huge bang of backfire then nothing happens......just lots of gas smoke comes out....please help me out!!!!!


How old is the gas? It might have dissolved, if you can, spray some transmission fluid (just a little) into the combustion chamber. It'll help it explode a little better


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> just worked on the timing and finished it up.......the timing is now stockbased.


What timing? Cam timing or ignition timing? Did you follow the FSM procedures?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*still got no clue why it won't fire up....*

i followed all the FSM procedure...........spend a week read it and did the timing finally identical to the FSM...but tonight even i tried to crank it.......the only thing i hear is a huge back fire sound of bang which makes another hole in my exhaust pipe....then only smoke comes out.......if i keep cranking then the smoke just keep coming out...then if i stop then nothing happens but the motor just turns by the starter........really don't know what is it not making my car not starting....please help me!!


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> i followed all the FSM procedure...........spend a week read it and did the timing finally identical to the FSM...but tonight even i tried to crank it.......the only thing i hear is a huge back fire sound of bang which makes another hole in my exhaust pipe....then only smoke comes out.......if i keep cranking then the smoke just keep coming out...then if i stop then nothing happens but the motor just turns by the starter........really don't know what is it not making my car not starting....please help me!!


What year is your car? It might be the ECU. If it's a SOHC engine, Ive got a spare ECU I'll give you.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

my little car is a 92 coupe with ka24de........so it can be the ecu? because the cranking sound seems to be a little weak and something is missing if i compare the sound i hear from my friend's 240 cranking...can it be some more stuff i missed? 

i have got a spare ecu....thanks for the offer....i will try to swap it see if it is the ecu


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## xs04298 (Oct 28, 2005)

I had a bad ECU when i swaped motors and it almost sounded like it was trying to run backwards, horrible horrible backfiring and missifiring, it would start for a few seconds and then just freak out..i'd definatly try swaping that your problem sounds veryfamiliar


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

tried another ecu........still backfire and miss fire like the previous one......can it be other parts or some other components that i have missed? the wet spark plugs probably be the reason for that...but i did a ground test and it was fine....and i also reground the engine so that i don't get bad connections......is other components like the air regulators or other electric stuff can be broken or defective too?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> tried another ecu........still backfire and miss fire like the previous one......can it be other parts or some other components that i have missed? the wet spark plugs probably be the reason for that...but i did a ground test and it was fine....and i also reground the engine so that i don't get bad connections......is other components like the air regulators or other electric stuff can be broken or defective too?


MAF probably. Check the wiring there. Did any of your wires come in contact with the clutch fan? My buddy's 240sx had a problem with backfiring when his MAF wiring got screwed. Check there, and ask a friend to borrow his if you have the chance to get a DOHC one.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

no...not the maf.....the circuit to maf is all correct.....i also ran a self-diag test tonight....everything is fine...the code on mode 2 is 55 which is nothing wrong......can it be other things to be wrong?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> no...not the maf.....the circuit to maf is all correct.....i also ran a self-diag test tonight....everything is fine...the code on mode 2 is 55 which is nothing wrong......can it be other things to be wrong?


This is crazy...You're saying it's backfiring. OK..timing...but you've corrected that..Spark plugs wet..so it's getting fuel. Did the engine run really hot one time or another? Are you sure your valves are in good condition, as in none of them are bent? Open your valve cover and see what's going on the the valve train.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

the valves are all fine......the thing makes me thinking is this afternoon i made my buddy to crank his 240 for me to compare the sounds.....i figure mine is missing the vacumm or the egr sound...can it be a problem? and i also found that the clutch interlock is always activated......it should not be like that if i take out the keys.....can they be the problems?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It still sounds like the distributor is not timed correctly. Here's a procedure for installing the distributor:

First you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug and disconnect the ignition coil wire. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you hand or thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO. Now determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block, meshing the gears so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.

The KA motor firing order is: 1-3-4-2. This is at the distributor cap.

Set timing to 20 degrees BTDC at idle.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

you said to point it at zero.....you mean the 20 degree? i just figured that the firing area is flooded with gas......even it creats a bridge for the plugs! no wonder it shorts and no sparks after couple cranking! hopefully i can start the motor...i love my car and i i want to drift it!!!!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> you said to point it at zero.....you mean the 20 degree?


Read my procedure carefully! You point it to zero when setting up the distributor mechanically with the motor shut off. When the motor is running, you set the ignition advance to 20 degrees BTDC with a timing light.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

got it.....i will do it tonight in my garbage!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*it is really wierred now!!!*

did the stuff as told..........but the motor still just backfires and never start...........now it is getting wiered...

okay....i put new gas into the tank....then i did the compression test on the #1 cylinder and did the same procedure according to the advices.....the distributor is on #1 and the firing order is 1342 and i set the zero degree, which is TDC....then i crank the motor for another try.....this time it creates a very loud big bang on the engine....then the motor keeps running out of smoke if i keep crank it...then from the intake the gas burnt smell comes out and smoke the whole garbage......my roomate thought i blow up the car......now what i should do to get the car back?? please help me.....i really don't want my s13 sit in the garage forever.....please help me!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> did the stuff as told..........but the motor still just backfires and never start...........now it is getting wiered...
> 
> okay....i put new gas into the tank....then i did the compression test on the #1 cylinder and did the same procedure according to the advices.....the distributor is on #1 and the firing order is 1342 and i set the zero degree, which is TDC....then i crank the motor for another try.....this time it creates a very loud big bang on the engine....then the motor keeps running out of smoke if i keep crank it...then from the intake the gas burnt smell comes out and smoke the whole garbage......my roomate thought i blow up the car......now what i should do to get the car back?? please help me.....i really don't want my s13 sit in the garage forever.....please help me!


Remember the distributor turns counter-clockwise, so the firing order AT THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP is 1-3-4-2 in a counter-clockwise direction.

If the ignition timing is correct, then the cam timing may be incorrect. Have you done any work on the cams or timing chain?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

oh...i will try it again.....i thought it would be clockwise...thanks! i will update after i try it! thanks!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

still not working..........can ground be a part of the starting problem?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> still not working..........can ground be a part of the starting problem?


Yeah it could be a potenital culprit. Make sure the fuel injector harness is grounded properly. otherwise the fuel injectors won't work, and make sure other grounds around the engine are grounded properly.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

injectors are working .....got fuel in the chamber.....just the ground thing is kinda make me suspicious...because it only backfires to the inatake side...which is the ground of battery cable goes through...i wonder if i ground it from the other side or connect straight to the head will cause different or not...


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> injectors are working .....got fuel in the chamber.....just the ground thing is kinda make me suspicious...because it only backfires to the inatake side...which is the ground of battery cable goes through...i wonder if i ground it from the other side or connect straight to the head will cause different or not...


No. it won't the battery ground only insures the battery is grounded to the engine, that's all. It really sounds as though your valves aren't closing all the way and that they may be bent from trying to crank with the engine being out of time. 

Double check all of your timing components. (timing chain, tensiors, cams, distributor, and such.) I really wish I could help more, but every sign is telling that the car is still out of time. 

I know this may sound crazy, but try to crank the car over with the valve cover off and make sure everything is functioning.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

so if it is a bent valve....what can cause it? overheating? or other damages? i drove my s13 to mechanic shop several times thou....before i let the jerk changed my gasket....it runs smooth...just the blown gasket can't hold compression.....can you kinda explain it? i will check on all timing components ...see if i miss something....


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> so if it is a bent valve....what can cause it? overheating? or other damages? i drove my s13 to mechanic shop several times thou....before i let the jerk changed my gasket....it runs smooth...just the blown gasket can't hold compression.....can you kinda explain it? i will check on all timing components ...see if i miss something....


We're trying to help you but you didn't give us all the info from the beginning. You're now saying that you drove the car to a shop for some work to be done and also the motor can't hold compression.

You need to explain why you originally took the car to a shop, what was done and how did the car run after it left the shop. If the shop screwed something up, they should be liable for it and proceed to fix the problem free of charge.


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## 93_240_ka (Oct 26, 2005)

jeffwubze said:


> so if it is a bent valve....what can cause it? overheating? or other damages? i drove my s13 to mechanic shop several times thou....before i let the jerk changed my gasket....it runs smooth...just the blown gasket can't hold compression.....can you kinda explain it? i will check on all timing components ...see if i miss something....[/QUOTE
> 
> Are you anywhere near SC?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*maybe i should clearify......hate to mention this crap story!*

*ok....i guess i have to go back to the old story again.....it is the old story i posted on "Please help" earlier than this thread....

2004 oct......i was doing firing order work on my s13.......i was called by an emergency call from my friend says the guy suppose to show up ran away....she wants me to work for that guy's shift(believe me, family business is always frustrating!) the station got no cashier and people were piling up for stuff......i have to gear up my s13 quick to sub for that guy.....when i drive to work the car ran smooth......in the station, after the business slows down and the station is empty, i parked the s13 in front of the station and finished the work.....got the new wires and NGK plugs installed.....but the major thing was i forgot to clamp tight the radiator hose.....so when i was driving home unfortunately the engine overheated......i have to drive it with all the smoke......finally i made it home and pushed it into my garage....the wires were all melted up...and the spark plugs were burnt......after that time the coolant and gas leaks into the engnine aand you can see the smoke comes out if you open up the radiator...... after i replaced the wires and plugs i drove it to shops seek for help to change my blown head gasket....in that time the engine cranks up and runs.....just with coolant and gas into radiator......and i don't drive it for more than two miles because i was afraid it to be overheated again......the car usually sits in the garage for the most of the time...

2005 summer........a friend gave me the FSM to let me to fix the car....one afternoon when i was reading on the FSM for the car....this mechanic saw me and suggested me to let him to change the head gasket.....he promised he would finish up the car in two weeks......i bought the gaskets and the necessary materials for him.....then he towed the car to his house....he says he can finish it in front of his house...fine......after three weeks finally he finished up everything and came to my station...without the car! i asked him...he says he finished the car.tested drove it.....but it blown up the gasket again.....but there was minor problems on it so it CAN"T start..the windows don't work....he will manage everything well and drive the car back to my house for me...of course without any charge........weeks after weeks....i always try to call him and wait for his late response..he always says he is working on it.....even with doubt i still have to trust him because the car is not running.......In pensacola florida summer times there is always hurricanes, that mechanic lives close to the beach, which is one mile to my station. after two hurricanes brought the rain and winds, i decide to check out my car see if there is damage to my car......that stupid guy left my windows open through all the storm and the interior is messed up with garbage in it! i informed him and asked him to take care of that...he agrees.......but my worry keep going on and on....so i check the car everyday.......he only puts plastic bags on the windows to avoid rain....and his garage is empty! one night after i get off work.....i finally broke the last straw...i hooked up the battery and rolled my windows up!( just that simple!)
and checked his progress on the car....nothing haven't been done since before the storm!

i complained my urgence to him and ask him to fix all the problems.........but he turns out not answer my phone and the house is empty for two weeks....and my car just sat out there forever without any progress...then he called me and said he was on vacation.....but later he disconnected his phone......with anger and frustration i go to advanced auto parts to look for him.....he convinced he will finish up the work and contact me regularly...plus he was mad with me to fix the window, because he said i messup his work.but he never contact me regluarly.....so in the end i burst my last straw.......after knowing that he did nothing but ruined my car....i only can choose to tow it back to my house instead of being trashed in front of his yard.......when the car goes back to the house.....the exhaust camshafts were broken in the head and the brake light is always on.....interior is messed up with humid and fungus.........the worst thing is the wires are in wrong order and not even the BPT valves are connected! after i seek for the sheriff's comments, they will seek for him and ask for legal consequences.....
but i dont' want him to redo my car...because i know he can't do anything at all....he can't even plug an window relay to roll up the windows! i will just let the cops to handle his actions! too bad for that mechanic to screw a station guy who knows too many cops!

but the problem is still here.....the car is not starting.....so i have to work on it my self to recover all the mess he did to my car......after Hurricane Wilma my camshafts arrived....after replaced the camshafts there is only wet plugs and backfires to the intake with several bump bump sound...i thought the starter probably weak because that stupid mechanic took my spare starter and never put it on the car, and my car cranks weak! then i replaced a brand new starter with two hundred dollars! still same thing.......i try to replace the ignition module....still same thing....even with new ecus...still nothing.....the plugs and wires are all new.........

i redo the timing and set it back to TDC and i am pretty sure the distributor and the crankshaft, even the camshaft oder are right....but still the car is doing same thing.........cranks it, then several backfire sounds....then nothing goes on...only with alot of gas smell in garage....wet plugs..some friends are telling me now probably bent valves can cause it to be not starting and backire....i kinda wonders another thing.....once i open up the valve cover....teh engine oil is mixed with gas..........so can it be another blown gasket? or some other components needed to be looked at?

please help me out on my car.......i like my s13.......she is my drifting tool and i love it.....i dont' want to salvage it........please help me out! thank you!*​


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

After the motor severely overheated, the head most likely warped; if this is the case, the head should have been milled if warped slightly otherwise it should have been replaced.

Your 'expert' mechanic? probably screwed up the cam timing which most likely caused the exhaust cam to break along with bent valves.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

yeh..when he changed the gasket...i asked him to resurfaced teh head...........so there can be bent valves? i will go get a spring compressor to take them out see if that is the case


about the mechanic? he is already being after by sheriff.......good luck for him


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> yeh..when he changed the gasket...i asked him to resurfaced teh head...........so there can be bent valves? i will go get a spring compressor to take them out see if that is the case
> 
> 
> about the mechanic? he is already being after by sheriff.......good luck for him


It's pretty easy to spot bent valves IMO. If you have the head off, look at the valves. They won't be seating properly in their seats, thus causing your engine to backfire.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*ahyyyy....another work..*

it is alot of work to take out the head......if i just take out the cams can i identify them? too bad i can't post pictures.....i do see valves don't line up with their positions thou......can i identify them?


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## 93_240_ka (Oct 26, 2005)

you should be able to see the valves with the cams out of the way and yes you would be able to see if there bent if it does not go straight through the spring like if the valve is touching the spring besides at the top or if you can see through the valve guide to the block other than that i had an eclipse do the same thing the reason why i did not have the right torque specs i listened to someone and they were wrong and i tightened them to much and i cracked the head not enough to see though and i did the same exact thing as your 240 so deff check the timing and the torque on the camshafts because if its to tight it might sound sluggish starting because of to much torque


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

i think i really have some bent valves.......the top of the shim is not line up with the valve seat........and they act funny.......i think i will have to take them out and order new ones on ebay.....on the FSM the diagram indicates a kind of tool to remove the valves without taking the head down.......any suggestions to take out the valve without taking the head down?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> i think i really have some bent valves.......the top of the shim is not line up with the valve seat........and they act funny.......i think i will have to take them out and order new ones on ebay.....on the FSM the diagram indicates a kind of tool to remove the valves without taking the head down.......any suggestions to take out the valve without taking the head down?


There's no way i believe it's possible to remove valves without removing the head.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> i think i really have some bent valves.......the top of the shim is not line up with the valve seat........and they act funny.......i think i will have to take them out and order new ones on ebay.....on the FSM the diagram indicates a kind of tool to remove the valves without taking the head down.......any suggestions to take out the valve without taking the head down?


The tool you're referring to is called a valve spring compressor which is used for removing the valve springs; this will allow you to replace them or replace the valve stem seals without removing the head. To replace the valves themselves, the head MUST be removed.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*i am back again!*

hi guys...sorry about dissappearing for a while.......school/work makes me heavy loaded......

comes back with update!

i got the head off by myself!
when i take the head off the engine, and now i see a total mess..........

1. the VALVES ARE BENT! gladly it is only on the intake side to be bent, but i will still change the exhaust side!

2. The GASKETS are the blown ones from the first time i blow up the gasket!
which means that stupid mechanic goofed off!

3. The head is filled with carbon deposit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!which means the MECHANIC NEVER CLEAN THE ENGINE AND JUST DUMP THE GASKET IN IT!

4. THE HEAD BOLTS.......ONE OF THEM IS BROKEN IN HALF!!!!!!!!!!NO WONDER THERE IS GAS IN THE OIL AND BACKFIRING!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HE NEVER TOLD ME ANYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!JERK!

now i have to find websites about valves..........fortunately i got a brand new timing chain and starter! camshafts are new too........now i just need to clean the head first......of course the block too........hopefully ican finish in spring break.....

plus....the valve is bent about 25 degrees....how retard............


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If one of your head bolts is broken, then it's a safe bet that all the head bolts were over-torqued by your 'master' mechanic. The rest of the bolts are probably over-stretched and ready to fail. Get a full set of NEW bolts from a Nissan dealer, not used ones from someone else.

If you plan to resurface the head, a maximum of 1 mm can be removed according to the FSM; removing more will change the cam timing. Also the valve guides may be cracked. The head should be sonic tested for cracks.


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

So being new to the 240sx and Nissan. I am assuming this is an interference head? IE where the valves can come in contact with the cylinders? 

Thanks Rogo for some good info. I enjoyed the read.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

update update!


head is off......degreaser used it all.......blush it all.............bent valve it all.......

now the head is off......yeh.....the head bolts are all over torqued......it takes me almost one week to clean the cylinder surface......the back fire carbon deposit.....the sticky deposit from the burnt oil and gasket combination.........i wonder if teh "Master Mechanic" just dumped the gasket without any cleaning......

ordered the valves online......they are supposed to be in my house next week........it is time to clean the block....which "the master mechanic" dumped all the gasket pieces in the intake spots..........

still got alot of school work and work is busy.....

update in the weekend again!

thanks for guys give me the info about how to do with these things!

really appreciate your time and effort!

jeff


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> update update!
> 
> 
> head is off......degreaser used it all.......blush it all.............bent valve it all.......
> ...


No prob, good luck with your repairs.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

*help help help!*

hi guys....through the take-down put up procedures...finally i changed the valves and bore the cylinders and finally finished put back the head back to the engine and tried to crank it.....the motor turns but it fires with wierd poping sound........so i rewired the plugs and thought it was my fault to wire it wrong...but the second time to start is still not starting...only with some pop sound.....from the sound i know the motor is almost starting...but it just would start........so i go back to the timing again...and knew that even when i turn the crank on TDC the distributor is way off....which means that the lower timing chain is off timing....i am working on this lower timing again.......is it necessary i need to take down the pulley and redo the lower timing...or i can just fix the distributor to make it fire to the first cylinder? or is there any procedure? please help me............


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If the distributor timing is way off, it does not mean the cam timing is off. To set the ignition timing, it is not necessary to ever touch the cam timing. Follow my procedure for timing the distributor that I had posted near the beginning of this thread and make sure TDC is set on the COMPRESSION STROKE.

Make sure the cam timing is correct before you even consider timing the ignition distributor. If the cam timing is incorrect, you could end up bending some of your new valve again.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

rogoman said:


> If the distributor timing is way off, it does not mean the cam timing is off. To set the ignition timing, it is not necessary to ever touch the cam timing. Follow my procedure for timing the distributor that I had posted near the beginning of this thread and make sure TDC is set on the COMPRESSION STROKE.
> 
> Make sure the cam timing is correct before you even consider timing the ignition distributor. If the cam timing is incorrect, you could end up bending some of your new valve again.



to feel the compression choke......how does it it? it is sucking in or pulling air out?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

rogoman said:


> It still sounds like the distributor is not timed correctly. Here's a procedure for installing the distributor:
> 
> First you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug and disconnect the ignition coil wire. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you hand or thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO. Now determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block, meshing the gears so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.
> 
> ...



by the way.....sorry i guess i am slow to get things.....what is meshing the gears?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> to feel the compression choke......how does it it? it is sucking in or pulling air out?


During the compression stroke you'll feel the air pushing out very strongly.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> by the way.....sorry i guess i am slow to get things.....what is meshing the gears?


It means the gears coming together.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

during TDC, is #1 cylinder piston goes all the way up?


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## chris859 (Oct 20, 2005)

yes, tdc = top dead center, and always refered to as the #1 cylinder


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## J-Rock (Apr 4, 2005)

Can anyone tell me what the cams timing marks are on a 99 KA24DE w/ DOHCs???


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

which timing chain mark you are talking about??????


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## J-Rock (Apr 4, 2005)

I need to time both cams in. What marks or keyholes do I need to line up on the camshafts? Sorry, but the car in question is a 99 Altima w/the dual overhead cams...I read somewhere that Nissan moved the mark on the intake cam, but I cant verify this...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

J-Rock said:


> I need to time both cams in. What marks or keyholes do I need to line up on the camshafts? Sorry, but the car in question is a 99 Altima w/the dual overhead cams...I read somewhere that Nissan moved the mark on the intake cam, but I cant verify this...


ALL of the ’98 & up DOHC KA24DE’s changed to the use of a single driven chain sprocket from the previous double chain sprocket that was used on the ’91-’97 models (also the ’98 up intake cams had the dowel pin relocated to match the same 12 o’clock position as the exhaust cam has). 

The mating marks on the chain should match the marks on the sprockets just as in older years of the DOHC motors.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

don't forget to do TDC thou!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

hi guys.........through all the trouble..........i reached the final step.....which is to crank the car...........but unfortunately the motor wants to start but it just can't fire up at all.........the exhaust cam is jammed due to the warped head.....thanks to that "expert mechanic................so i reached the final solution.....which is........to order a new head for my s13........400 dollars.........the old head........is turned in as the core.....now i have to start over......hopefully this time i will get it right..........i will keep update!!!

jeff


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

another problem guys.....finally i got my pay and threw away the old cracked head and bought a new one.........did everything over again......now i am facing a new problem....now the engine cranks right...but for some reason it doesn't start......when i turned on the ignition key there is no hissing sound from the fuel pump......one time i dropped a screw driver and cause part of the fuse box to touch the engine.......and there was a great spark.......i thought everything was fine......but for now i can't hear the hissing sound of fuel charging in my car....is there anyway to diagnose it?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The old tried and true way. Disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the fuel filter and insert a long length of spare hose into the top of the fuel filter with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.

If nothing works, check the fuses.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

tried it that way as rogoman said........there was no fuel come out........and the injectors don't have the click sound as i turn the distributor by hand.......the fuses are all good...........so i think it is either those components are not working..1. fuel injector 2. distributor 3. fuel pump..........can bad relays be part of the problem too?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Besides checking the fises, also check the fusable links which are located in the fuse box next to the battery.

When working in the engine compartment, it's always a good idea to disconnect the battery!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

fusble links??? what kind of wire are they??so i need to take down the fuse box to check on theose connections?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

finally got the ECCS back on........i guess it was some bad connection or something...after i pulled out the fuse box and check all the wires it just came back as it is......good i don't break anything....but the problem is now...even i put everything back and i tried to crank the engine it won't start but it turns over.....i wonder if i missed some thing or didn't do the timing right........keep updating!


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

jeffwubze said:


> finally got the ECCS back on........i guess it was some bad connection or something...after i pulled out the fuse box and check all the wires it just came back as it is......good i don't break anything....but the problem is now...even i put everything back and i tried to crank the engine it won't start but it turns over.....i wonder if i missed some thing or didn't do the timing right........keep updating!


Did you disconnect the white connector inside the car? it connects to the dash harness. Also check to make sure you're getting fuel. One way I did this, I bought a grill lighter (the long one) and put it in the chamber...  It worked! lol. If that doesn't work then, it's got to be your timing.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

tried to crank it tonight.........hear two noise of someing tries to fire then it goes out............i think the sparking system has something wrong....i will go to junk yard and find a coil see if that is the thing i missed


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

okay.........ripped of lots of altimas and sentras..........i just put up the new coil and the new power transistors on my little car.......but the result was the same..........so in my first thought i figure that the fuel is not in the chamber..........as i thought...the plugs are all dryand even withsome kinda of oil thing around it or something.....but even i tried to pull out the plugs and the wires and crank the engine, i could not smell gas in the chamber at all.....probably the fuel problem.....stupid me to cause that short...........i tested the distributor and the fuel injectors they seems to function well.......but there must be something wrong......any ideas what would be the possible stuffs?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

the engine is not getting fuel in........after i air dried the chamber and clean the plugs......tried to crank the engine to see if i get fuel on the plug......there was none on the plug at all............so there must be an electric problem.....when i took out the hose from the fuel filter to test on fuel....it does have fuel coming out.....but the i figure that if i swap to the one ecu the fuel system is hardly on.....so i changed to the new ecu......sometimes it turns on but not always..the ecu is the one hooked up to the car when i shorted the car...can this be the ecu problem to cause it not to start?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

Then your problem is with your fuel injector grounds. Make sure those 2 grounds are grounded in separate locations. otherwise they don't work. I did that with my sr, thinking it was going to work but it didn't, I had to have them in separate places.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

Thanks to Zellx2004! i am way too stupid that i forget ther was 2 grounds....only connected one...........now i am getting fuel.....but after i tried to crank it......it pops out the sound like bo bo in the exhaust.......did i miss the timing again? so now the battery is kinda low and i have to recharge it.........any suggestions?


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

not to be an ass, but hahha, welcome to my world now. It sounds as though your timing is off. recheck that, and you should be good to go.


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

quick question: when set the timing to TDC to #1 cylinder, is the rotor tip touch the ignigion wire node, or going to touch or it has a specific distance?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

finally i got everything figured out..........crank the engine! but the outcome doesn't sound that good............the motor tries to start......and i saw the rev moving....but it won't idle......it just quits after i lose the ignition key...even though after i tried it several times....it will idle for couple seconds very shaky, then it quits again.........the gas in the tank is more than 2 yrs old.....so i bought some gas treatment see if it helps to start up..............or do i have to drain all the old gas out of the tank and get new gas for it.....please help me...............almost on the finish line to rebuild the car and revive it......


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

haha! appreciate rogo and zellx and all other helped me on the infos!........the cam timing was a little off....after i reset the timing.......it finally starts now!!!! although it still doesn't idle right and filled with smoke....probably need to adjust the screw and change the rotor top......but i am finally getting it fired up!!!really appreciate everyone's help!


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## chris859 (Oct 20, 2005)

No, what you need is to drain all of the gas, and get fresh gas in there! You don't honestly expect it to run good on 2 year old gas do you?? I am willing to bet your starting/idling problems are all caused by the gas now. Make sure you change the fuel filter after you get the fresh gas in there too!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

i add in another six gal of premium into the tank on sunday! well......guess the gas is really the problem........let's see how it goes....thanks for the help!


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

haha......really old gas is called "bad", it really starts funny by jump around........i will drain all of that thing out and replace......after wrap up wires and bolt back necessary thing i will post the pic up! thanks everyone!


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## EvilPotato (Sep 6, 2005)

hehe, i've followed this thread from the first post, dood.. you got some patience


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

if you really your S13, just like all the guys over here.........then patience is not a thing to limit me at all!


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## sicknot090 (May 17, 2007)

dam dude i had the same problem with my 240(91'). I worked on it for 3 weeks thinking it was timing. Never figured it out I had to get a new engine all together. Tell me something, does there have to be two plates between the tranny and engine or just one because my oil pan is hitting my flywheel not letting the motor spin. Could I have gotton the wronge engine?


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## jeffwubze (Dec 6, 2005)

sicknot090 said:


> dam dude i had the same problem with my 240(91'). I worked on it for 3 weeks thinking it was timing. Never figured it out I had to get a new engine all together. Tell me something, does there have to be two plates between the tranny and engine or just one because my oil pan is hitting my flywheel not letting the motor spin. Could I have gotton the wronge engine?


hey dude......sorry about your car......but what is wrong with your car???you got to be specific about your car problems.........like you saw.....i work on my 240 numerous times........but in the end i always find the cause to be small components.......so start from the small stuff then check everything up and up......

if you can describe the car problem more specific and detail....i would really love to help you.....

about the plates.....they don't matter to hit the flywheel at all......and your engine should be KA24DE...check if it is in your engine bay

good luck

jeff


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