# 89 KA24E Timing Question



## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

Hi I am new here, just picked up a 89 240 white in decent condition 

I received the car not running, it was in the process of having the timing chain installed (did not snap). The guy tried setting the timing but said would not start ( he claims he didnt even set the distributor). Timing chain is on but I am not sure how to go about checking to see if the timing is right. The car has sat for almost a year without running with the valve cover off (but covered with a tarp). Any help would be appreciated on what to look for to see if indeed timing is set right. Or should I not even bother with timing and try to find a replacement KA24E...yes I want a SR20 but I just dont have the money for it right now. Id really like however to try to get this motor running.

Thanks


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## Chief_Suicide (Nov 27, 2006)

Many of the older KA24E engines had a problem with eating up the chain guides. If you are changing the Timing chain I highly recommend you also replace the guides to the timing chain. If the guides are totally ate up, or gone, then you will have problems getting the timing set.

Also, you can download a Factory Service Manual for the 89-90 240SX and it explains how to time a KA24E.

Hope this helps.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

Timing guides look like they were replaced along with the chain...looks to be in good condition. I will take pictures when I can. But thanks for the advice.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Here's how to set the ignition timing on a SOHC motor:

Remove the distributor and the oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the ompression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO.

The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.

Determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

thanks for the advice I havent had a chance to work on the car yet (too cold - yea Im a pussy). But just moved it into the garage and have space heater going. Hopefully I can start working on it tonight..just gotta find my jackstands


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

I've already posted a procedure for setting the ignition timing. If you want to check or set the cam timing, here's a procedure for that:

first disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley. Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. Remove the timing cover. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

Here are some pics.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If you followed my cam timing check procedure, then #1 piston should be sitting at TDC; if so, the picture show that the ignition appears to be timed correctly, however the other picture shows the top sprocket keyway to be off; it should be at the 12:00 o'clock position.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

I thought so, I havent touched the car yet but that is how I received it. The guy before said he tried starting but it wouldnt start and he thinks the timing jumped a couple of teeth (which looks the case in this pictures. Which means Im taking the timing cover off.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

Ok, so I had some issues. Turns out fuel pump isnt working but was supposedly replaced. Checked that it is getting juice at the EGI pump fuses. It is either the pump is bad or the connectors at the pump are dirty. However we did get the engine to start the ghetto way by pouring gas in the intake - has a nasty knock. Not sure if its because of the timing chain rattling around or motor is bad. Either way when I get a chance Im going to take a look at the pump. Might as well start looking for another KA24e


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

You should have followed my timing procedures first before attempting to start the motor. If the cam timing was way off and you attempted to start the motor, the valves can get bent or a good possibility of cracking a piston.

Trying to start the ghetto way can be a quick way to heaven for the motor because of the questionable cam timing. Try to burn this into your brain for future diagnostics.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

I did follow your procedures and were rather helpful. Timing seemed good and the person who had the car before me tried cranking the motor with the timing a few teeth off. When I removed the valve cover it does not look like timing jumped at all since I intially set it. The only thing I noticed was the slack in the chain on the drivers side. I did not think the chain should be super taught but the slack had about 1inch deflection. The motor also sat for about a year and rust did spit out the tailpipe.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

With the motor not running, the chain tensioner will not apply pressure against the chain, so there will be slack.

It's also possible for the tensioner not to be working correctly due to gunk in it; if you want to examine it, you'll have to take the front timing cover off.


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## magichat (Jan 16, 2007)

well its been awhile but here is an update. Car runs now, but does make noise - sounds like the timing chain is rattling around. Also speedo actually reads about 5mph when standing still. Small things but Im just glad it runs. Now for some more work


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