# Fried resistor/condenser, `92 240SX



## ofos2 (Jul 20, 2005)

Drove into driveway, thought fireworks odor had followed me up hill - until I tried to crank it later - cranked but didn`t fire. Found this crisped connecter unit - resistor/condenser near coil module, left fender which wiring diagram identified by wire colors. No obvious short as best I can determine by ohm meter. Any experience with this? Car is stock except for cold air/headers/pipes which have been a pleasure for 30,000 miles. Had some overheating due to coolant leak but not enough to fry anything else.


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## ofos2 (Jul 20, 2005)

*THE ANSWER*



ofos2 said:


> Drove into driveway, thought fireworks odor had followed me up hill - until I tried to crank it later - cranked but didn`t fire. Found this crisped connecter unit - resistor/condenser near coil module, left fender which wiring diagram identified by wire colors. No obvious short as best I can determine by ohm meter. Any experience with this? Car is stock except for cold air/headers/pipes which have been a pleasure for 30,000 miles. Had some overheating due to coolant leak but not enough to fry anything else.


As there were no responses to this question, having found the answer to my question I will append it here in case someone else finds themselves in same dilemna in future - at least site search or google will get them here.
The solution was found from mechnic friend`s search of iATN TechMail site, a members only source he uses for his shop. A similar posting brought 5 responses from similarly wired Nissans. Although one thought this occurred 'in areas of high humidity', friend tells me it is 'something that just happens', a quirk of the system. It generally does not come from a short elsewhere in the system; part just sometimes fails. A new resister/condensor can (according to respondents) be purchased from Nissan but my experience there may or may not have identified it - I think listed as 'condensor' - the one not in the A/C but it is special order. $8.00 approx. cost. The various fixes were accomplished by splicing wires below the 'melt zone' and attaching new part. This worked, no followups about customers returning with repeat failure. There had been localized fires of various degree, in some cases requiring fixing affected neighbors to the failed part. This must not be due to age/mileage of original part as friend advised just purchasing part plus enough wire to splice it into harness from local import salvage yard. Hope few people find need for this info.


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## archer973 (Mar 10, 2014)

ofos2 said:


> As there were no responses to this question, having found the answer to my question I will append it here in case someone else finds themselves in same dilemna in future - at least site search or google will get them here...Hope few people find need for this info.


Thank you for posting the answer! It is the exact info I was looking for. Too many threads get started and never show the answer. I wonder how many of those found the fix but never came back to share like you did. It's been awhile since you posted. I hope my message of thanks gets forwarded to you.


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