# 95 2.4 hb knock/rattle rattle after warm up



## ndeshay (Dec 28, 2011)

Have 95 truck with 2.4. Bought with about 140k miles ( have to jiggle the odo reset sometimes to make the speedo work). Been an awesome truck so far. When I bought it, there was a rattle for about 5 seconds after starting then it would go away. Wrote it off as a pulley or something. Now it rattles after the motor warms up and doesn't stop. Thought it was lifter noise- tried trans fluid with oil change. Noise seems to be coming from the right side of the motor- removed a/c belt. Thinking it may be distributor related as it seems to be coming from that area. Truck pulls strong just has this aggravating noise. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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## mattbatson (Sep 14, 2011)

sounds like the timing chain

this can be a weak point on these motors...i would pull the valve cover to check the condition of the chain. 
If you decide to replace it, buy a quality chain/guide from the dealer.
also, make sure you thoroughly clean out the oil galley that supplies oil to the chain/guide with brake cleaner and compressed air...this is often what causes the damage over time, if it gets clogged.
once you start hearing noise more often, it means you may be getting nearer to a timing chain failure and engine damage.

do this soon


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Also remove the chain tensioner and clean it internally. The chain guide is most likely shot.


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## ndeshay (Dec 28, 2011)

Thanks guys. Guess I have my weekend scheduled. Off hand, does anyone know what size the nut is on the crank pulley- have to buy one...

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## ndeshay (Dec 28, 2011)

Another question- my a/c works off and on. Compressor kicks on when the switch is lit but the switch goes out and the compressor shuts off. Had an 86.5 with the same issue but didn't really need a/c so I never cared. Must be an easy fix since i'm in the fixing mood...

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## mattbatson (Sep 14, 2011)

ndeshay said:


> Thanks guys. Guess I have my weekend scheduled. Off hand, does anyone know what size the nut is on the crank pulley- have to buy one...
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using AutoGuide.Com Free


I dont know the size of the crank bolt...
I would say that you need a decent tool set and some knowledge to do this yourself...
do you have an online tutorial you plan to follow?
or are you going with a haynes manual....?


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## lumbee (Mar 20, 2005)

ndeshay how did the chain swap go? I have a 95 that rattles on startup, but is fine once I have oil pressure. Considering doing this job also. Just wondering how tough a job it was...


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Read this! It's a sticky at the top of our truck forum.

http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/137011-ka24e-timing-write-up-97-hb.html

It's not really a DIY job unless you have built engines successfully in the past.

-R


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## ndeshay (Dec 28, 2011)

Sorry for my absence had other things to take care of. This repair has been a literal pain in my ass. Definitely not something I should have tried or ever will try again. My situation may be different because I only have about an hour or so after work that I can actually concentrate and work on this thing. But back to your question- changing the chain and components is a cake walk. Making sure you don't loose tdc keeping all the bolts and little things in order so u can put the damn thing back together is a project in itself. I am at a point where I know for sure that this motor is at tdc but I now have no spark for some reason. When I put the oil pump and distributor back on, everything was good then I cranked the motor. Noticed that the rotor wasn't turning. Took the distributor apart and saw that I bent a thin metal disk ( magneto, or something). Went to the junkyard and got another one, put it in and still no spark. So at this point, here I am truck wont crank, know for sure I don't have spark( had my wife hold the plug ;] ). Think I screwed up my distributor putting it all back together. Long story short- let someone who knows what the hell they're doing do this repair for you. If you think your truck is worth the $11- 1400 bucks it will cost you, smile as you cut the check!

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## ndeshay (Dec 28, 2011)

The link on this thread from TheRepairMan is absolutely dead on, read, burn to memory, save a copy, and read at least 2 more times. Wish I caught it before I tore into this.

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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

TheRepairMan said:


> Read this! It's a sticky at the top of our truck forum.
> 
> http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/137011-ka24e-timing-write-up-97-hb.html
> 
> ...



Ugggh...just when I was starting to get the confidence to tackle this job. 

I've read the sticky over and over. I've got pictures in my mind of a big sheet of plywood with every part labelled and strategically placed as it's removed from the truck. A clipboard with notes and a Sharpie to label every last bolt, nut and washer. Even set aside a digital camera to take 'before' shots. And finally, setting one week aside next summer to get it done and knowing that my truck will be down for that week.

And to further complicate matters...my ride is 4WD which means the oil pan removal is a real bear.

*sigh*


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Grug said:


> Ugggh...just when I was starting to get the confidence to tackle this job.
> 
> I've read the sticky over and over. I've got pictures in my mind of a big sheet of plywood with every part labelled and strategically placed as it's removed from the truck. A clipboard with notes and a Sharpie to label every last bolt, nut and washer. Even set aside a digital camera to take 'before' shots. And finally, setting one week aside next summer to get it done and knowing that my truck will be down for that week.
> 
> ...



Hey, don't let me discourage you from trying this!

Just take your time and carefully document everything you do. I do think it's important to use a camera to record your steps, and research things over and over until you fully understand what you are about to do. Mark everything clearly, especially while the engine is up on #1 TDC, and make sure it all looks the same when going back together. Be careful with all the gaskets and seals.

We never know what we are capable of until we are put to the task. It sounds like you are organized and ready, so get to it!

-R


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey there, RepairMan. No, you haven't discouraged me from attempting it. For me, it's a bit of a scary undertaking so I'm prone to bouts of doubt.

Believe it or not, I think that if I do it...it'll be done right. It might take a week to get it done and I might skun up my knuckles a few times, but I think it'll get done properly.

I agree, close documentation every step of the way is the way to go. And another advantage I have is all you good folks on this site.

Now I'm gonna' get a little deep on you...

"What we have to learn to do, we learn by doing" Aristotle


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Grug said:


> Hey there, RepairMan. No, you haven't discouraged me from attempting it. For me, it's a bit of a scary undertaking so I'm prone to bouts of doubt.
> 
> Believe it or not, I think that if I do it...it'll be done right. It might take a week to get it done and I might skun up my knuckles a few times, but I think it'll get done properly.
> 
> ...


My full time work consists of working on whatever brand of car comes in, so I know all about diving into unknown territory, and you are right, it's a crap shoot even taking your car to a "professional" technician to have the work done. I'm pretty sure he cares less about getting the job done right, as to getting it done fast. That's because of the way they are usually paid, on commission. IMO, you are "almost" always better off doing something yourself if you can. Learning by doing is what keeps me going. I work on EVERYTHING with the added support from internet resources, and great web sites like this one.

-Roger


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## pap6ma (Jun 13, 2013)

I have a 95 HB with 141,000 on it and a KA24E that had valve tick at start up and after highway driving. It got to the point that it ticked all the time. I believe the #4 exhaust valve lifter wasn't working and it fouled out #4 plug. 
I changed the oil with 5w30 and I put Marvelous Mystery Oil in and added it to the gas as directed. Within 2 tanks of gas the ticking completely stopped and hasn't returned yet. I believe I had to much oil in also and it caused the oil to foam up and air bound #4 cylinder exhaust valve causing the tick. I don't know if keeping the oil under full or the Marvelous Mystery Oil fixed it or the combination. My truck runs like when I bought it 2 1/2 yrs ago and I will always have Marvelous Mystery Oil in it. 
I tried Lucas, Seafoam and STP and they didn't help and I believe they might have thickened the oil and made it worst at the end. I now keep the oil between 3/4 and 7/8's full.


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