# changing front brake pads



## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

kahoots said:


> hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks




Needle-nose pliers. 

Carefully turn your caliper piston so it retracts a bit. Allow just enough room to slip the caliper over the new pads and shims. 


At least thats how the rear disk brakes are done. For the fronts I just use a wood block and compress the piston by hand.


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## SSK (Mar 31, 2005)

kahoots said:


> hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks


I always use a C clamp, you could probably do it by hand but its going to be a little tougher.


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## scooterbob (Jun 16, 2004)

The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.

Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

scooterbob said:


> The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.
> 
> Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:


I use a C clamp, works on all cars I have owned ( from A to T) unless you have to rotate the piston like the SER rears. Of course you are careful not to use excessive force, the piston will slide back easily,
It cheaper and can be used for lots of stuff, available at home depot etc. No shipping.
If you are stuck and dont have your tools you can push the piston back before you remove the caliper from the rotor with a big'ish screw driver or somthing simular, lever the pads away from the disk. Yes you will damage the pads but they are to be replaced anyway.
Good luck.......


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

scooterbob said:


> The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.
> 
> Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:



Hey, nice link. :thumbup: 

I personaly liked this tool over the others...


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

i just jam a screw driver in there between the piston and pad and pry it back with leverage before i take the caliper off, but thats a beater car for ya


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## scooterbob (Jun 16, 2004)

Like I said, with brakes it's easier to do it correct the first time. There is probably hundreds of other ways of doing it, ranging from pounding it with a rock :balls: to rolling over it with your buddies car. Pick one that's best for you.

Welcome for the link Sethticlees. I thought about the same tool also. Helps on the rear brakes I bet.


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

has any1 changed the rotors in the front? is it just as simple as taking off the calipers and the rotors come off or i gotta unscrew something?


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

just remove the caliper and torque member bracket and tap on the sides of the disc and they'll loosen up and fall off


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

James said:


> just remove the caliper and torque member bracket and tap on the sides of the disc and they'll loosen up and fall off


sorry but wat is torque member bracket?


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

kahoots said:


> sorry but wat is torque member bracket?


This is the name given to the metal bracket that connects the caliper to the spindle assembly. 
Don't worry it is attached to the caliper and you just remove the two bolts holding the assembly to the spindle. I have not heard of this piece being separate before but its always causing confusion here. Normally I would call this part of the caliper. It comes with the caliper if you get a rebuilt, no one seems to take it off.


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads ....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help  thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

kahoots said:


> thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads ....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help  thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again


maybe the caliper is sticking on one side. just replace the caliper, easier than rebuilding.

also, use some synthetic grease for the brakes... they sell it where you get the calipers (autozone, kragen, etc)


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

wats the cost of a caliper?


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

dunno, I can't give you all the answers, you're going to have to do some work yourself.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

kahoots said:


> wats the cost of a caliper?


When you push the piston back and fit the new pads the caliper will slide on the pins. Make sure the caliper moves even if a bit of resistance. But it must move. 
It is somewhat normal for the passenger side to wear more from road dirt in the gutter. 

I would say if its more than 2 or 3 mm different then you may have a caliper problem. 
The piston is fine if the brakes work normally. 
Only put grease on the parts that slide not on the pads friction surface and rotor. Sorry if you know that, just making sure. 
If you need calipers I don't know how much the standard ones are. 
2 loaded calipers with pads and new rotors for a larger brake upgrade (called ad22vf as in my Sig) runs about $220 with core charge.
try...http://www.rockauto.com/
Good Luck......


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

kahoots said:


> thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads ....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help  thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again



Grease your caliper pins. That should solve the uneven ware on the brake pads.


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## AznBoiBryant (Dec 29, 2004)

I thought you guys also have to bleed the brake lines? If you do what is bleeding the brake lines?


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## Omega3k1 (Jan 6, 2005)

you only have to bleed the brakes if you unhook the brake line from the caliper. Otherwise they're fine.


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

Sethticlees said:


> Grease your caliper pins. That should solve the uneven ware on the brake pads.



caliper pins? the ones i took off the brake pads?


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

kahoots said:


> caliper pins? the ones i took off the brake pads?


You remove the bolt that screws into the sliding pin assembly. Then you can rotate the assembly to change the pads. 
He is telling you the sliding caliper pins are not sliding and to grease them. They are in the small rubber boots or belows on each side 
A previous post suggested you buy new calipers so you don't have to do this repair. 
Have you downloaded the 96 Factory service manual that is available here. Its a "sticky" at the top of the B14 forum. Section BR page BR-18 has a drawing and instructions. 
Hope this helps.


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

IanH said:


> You remove the bolt that screws into the sliding pin assembly. Then you can rotate the assembly to change the pads.
> He is telling you the sliding caliper pins are not sliding and to grease them. They are in the small rubber boots or belows on each side
> A previous post suggested you buy new calipers so you don't have to do this repair.
> Have you downloaded the 96 Factory service manual that is available here. Its a "sticky" at the top of the B14 forum. Section BR page BR-18 has a drawing and instructions.
> Hope this helps.


Do you mean on BR-18, number 2 or 18? regarding the caliper pins/rubber boots. Thanks


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

kahoots said:


> Do you mean on BR-18, number 2 or 18? regarding the caliper pins/rubber boots. Thanks


number 2 is the boot and number 1 the sliding pin.
18 is the piston boot
pleased you are making progress. The grease used is rubber grease made for brake parts or silicone grease that will not hurt the rubber.

Also check the worn pad thickness, driver inside and outside, passenger side inside and outside. post the measurements in mm 
I am still concerned you are doing this without a good cause.
Good Luck let us know how it goes.


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## kahoots (Aug 25, 2003)

IanH said:


> number 2 is the boot and number 1 the sliding pin.
> 18 is the piston boot
> pleased you are making progress. The grease used is rubber grease made for brake parts or silicone grease that will not hurt the rubber.
> 
> ...


so should i put grease on both, 2 and 18? and i changed the brake pads already because my right side was making noises already but left side had a lot left. dont know for sure the measurements in mm, but its about 3 cds (compact discs) width..i havent changed my pads for over a year and a half and 30k miles.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

kahoots said:


> so should i put grease on both, 2 and 18? and i changed the brake pads already because my right side was making noises already but left side had a lot left. dont know for sure the measurements in mm, but its about 3 cds (compact discs) width..i havent changed my pads for over a year and a half and 30k miles.


I suggest you leave 18 alone at this point. You would need a rebuild kit to mess with the piston assembly. 
We are just talking about the sliding pin 1 in the boot 2.
If its 3 CD's width then they are worn out as well. I assume a CD is about 1 mm. 
Spec is 11mm new, 1.5 mm worn ( some cars its 2mm for worn out) 
Also you should not mix sets as the friction can be different with different brands or even batches of material. 
So yes dismantle the pin assembly and grease. make sure the caliper slides ok and then put pads in and away you go. I have done this on my Subaru but not my Nissans so I cant be more specific. Just use the right grease and inspect the pins for wear and rust etc. 
My Nissan pads lasted more than 62 K. I then upgraded the brakes.


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