# 1995 Nissan Maxima Passenger Axle Replacement



## bykeridr (Oct 17, 2005)

I have my maxima apart but cannot remove the axle, are ther any tricks

or special tool that I need??


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

*Axle woe's*

Give me a detailed description or even a few pics if you've got a digital camera.  I'll be online for an hour or so (7:45am-8:45). If I can, I'll be glad to help.
Good luck
Johnny


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## bykeridr (Oct 17, 2005)

*95 maxima Axle replacement*

I have the axle loose from the wheel and have taken out the 3 bolts that

are at the housing. It appears that this housing is Aluminum, I was told

not to pry on it to much.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

you can just release the band clamp sealing the inner boot to the inner driver and pull the tripod joint out of the inner driver, I'm assuming that the inner driver is the aluminum housing you're referring to. If it is, then it's probably best to not remove it as this will open up the transmission to the environment. I'm referring to the inboard end of the axle shaft. If you are talking about the outboard end, which can be very stubborn when trying to remove it from the hub. I've had to inbolt the brake calliper and entirely remove the hub/steering knuckle and use a hammer and drift to pound the shaft out. If this is nessessary then I suggest bracing the hub with blocks of wood (as wood is far less likely to damage even alluminum). Do be aware that the anti-lock brake sensor is an aluminum ring with little square teeth all around it, probably located just inside the hub. that is one thing that you do not want to muckle up. 

Send a reply when you get this and maybe we can get a better idea of what one another is talking about.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

Before you release the inner band clamp. There should be six bolts holding the tripod joint into/onto the inner driver (chack this against you shop manual as I could be wrong). These will either be an allen bolt or a 12pointed allen bolt. YOU DO NOT WANT TO STIP THESE BOLTS! But if you do it's not the end of the world, just a major pain in the ass, so make damn sure you've got the right size wrench. If the axle is turning and you need to stop it to turn the bolts, try using a screwdriver stuck between two other bolts to hold it in place and go arround the whole thing just breaking them all free before you remove them completely. 
If you need the 12 point male wrench they are cheap and easy to find at auto zone and simiar parts places, hell, they might even loan you one forfree or cheap.
I say to check this option before releasing the inner boot because once you let the grease out, well, it gets really nasty and greasy.


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## bykeridr (Oct 17, 2005)

johnnyhammers said:


> you can just release the band clamp sealing the inner boot to the inner driver and pull the tripod joint out of the inner driver, I'm assuming that the inner driver is the aluminum housing you're referring to. If it is, then it's probably best to not remove it as this will open up the transmission to the environment. I'm referring to the inboard end of the axle shaft. If you are talking about the outboard end, which can be very stubborn when trying to remove it from the hub. I've had to inbolt the brake calliper and entirely remove the hub/steering knuckle and use a hammer and drift to pound the shaft out. If this is nessessary then I suggest bracing the hub with blocks of wood (as wood is far less likely to damage even alluminum). Do be aware that the anti-lock brake sensor is an aluminum ring with little square teeth all around it, probably located just inside the hub. that is one thing that you do not want to muckle up.
> 
> Send a reply when you get this and maybe we can get a better idea of what one another is talking about.


The aluminum housing is where the inboard part of the axle meets the transmission. If i remove the boot clamp & pull the tripod joint out,then how do i proceed from there.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

On my truck the inner driver is bolted on and is actually not that bad to remove. Go ahead and try to remove it as my truck had a cover between it and the innards of the tranny/front axle, this is where the book is nice cause it will tell you what's back behind it. It's much easier if you don't have to break the seal on the inner tripod joint. Just do what the manual tells you as this part of the procedure will be specific to your year and model.

if you are changing the whole shaft with new ends and everything, then just pull out the old and insert the new. Keep in mind that these are bearing surfaces and ABSOLUTELY MUST BE KEPT STERILE. Not so much in the biological sense but there can be absolutely no grit. not one little speck, just pure "clean" grease and shiny metal. I often actually try to kep it biologically clean to; just imagine that grease is good for you and other than the grease, literally make the thing so clean that you personally would eat off of it (really, I'm serious). 

If you're keeping you old shaft and tripod joint, but swapping the actual CV joint than you will need some snap ring pliers, a vise, a few good blocks of wood, and some patience, hell, throw in a hammer and a drift for good measure. The shiny parts are important, but one thing you have going for you is that the actual axle (the part that is always exposed and is probably painted black) is incredibly strong. therefore you can grab it with a vise or with vise grips and put all sorts of force on it.

Just follow the steps in your service manual; and if you don't have a good old Haynes or Chilton manual then you NEED to get one NOW. they will have the procedure for swapping joints on the shaft. if you do give it a shot, just don't mess up the threads on the new joint when installing it and don't mess up the splines on the axle end. I'd also highly recommend buying a bench vise. if you get one you need to bolt it down to a good workbench or if you don't have a workbench then use a piece of wood, just something to bolt it to. If you are in a bigger city than there may be a Harbor Fright Tools store or a Northern Tool store near you. these are great places to get a good vise for relatively cheap ($30-on up) Don't get anything smaller than a 4 or 5 inch. 

Good luck man. 
P.S. 
The first CV joint I ever changed took me about three days, and that was on my only car, so I was stuck. The second one took about 6 hours. Now I can knock one out in just a few hours if I've done it on the same car before. So Keep heart, and keep working, you will get it done.


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