# 95 Altima - stalling / idling issue



## dstanek (May 19, 2004)

Just got a used 1995 altima gxe with 99,000 miles on it. It appears to be a clean well kep car but I do not know any of the car repair history on it.

Here's the problem: the first 3 weeks my daughter drove it no problems. Good zippy little car. Yesterday she reported it stalling. I went and drove and it seems to have issues while idling, where it will begin to hiccup and rough idle. Once in awhile while doing this it will kill. The car restarts easily and if you rev it up will idle smoothly for awhile but will return to rough idle and stalling. When driving I did notice a few hiccups when accelerating and going 35mph. Not many problems though when driving mostly just an idling issue. The rough idle can be made worse by turning on the lights and fan, as this puts strain on the engine?? This problem is fairly intermittent. I did take out one spark plug and it looked very clean. I took the cap off the distributor and the rotor looked good as did the contacts on the underside if the cap. I watched in the dark while it rough idled to see if I could see the spark plug cables arc or spark. Did not see anything there. 

Also, no check engine light has ever come on (does this car have check engine light??)

Any idea on where I should look first at what is causing this. I know this car seems to have a history with stalling most of which looks to be related to sensors and valves. I guess I should haul it into the garage and have them look at it as it might just need a tuneup. I thought if I knew which direction to head it might save me and mechanic some grief.

thanks doug


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

There could be many reasons for it stalling. I have and still having stalling issues as well. When was the car tuned up last?



dstanek said:


> Just got a used 1995 altima gxe with 99,000 miles on it. It appears to be a clean well kep car but I do not know any of the car repair history on it.
> 
> Here's the problem: the first 3 weeks my daughter drove it no problems. Good zippy little car. Yesterday she reported it stalling. I went and drove and it seems to have issues while idling, where it will begin to hiccup and rough idle. Once in awhile while doing this it will kill. The car restarts easily and if you rev it up will idle smoothly for awhile but will return to rough idle and stalling. When driving I did notice a few hiccups when accelerating and going 35mph. Not many problems though when driving mostly just an idling issue. The rough idle can be made worse by turning on the lights and fan, as this puts strain on the engine?? This problem is fairly intermittent. I did take out one spark plug and it looked very clean. I took the cap off the distributor and the rotor looked good as did the contacts on the underside if the cap. I watched in the dark while it rough idled to see if I could see the spark plug cables arc or spark. Did not see anything there.
> 
> ...


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## dstanek (May 19, 2004)

do not know for sure as I got it from a dealer who got it from a much larger dealer via auction. The plugs, rotor and distributor all looked good shape visually but that might not mean much. Should I just start with a tuneup? kind of wierd becuase it rand fine for several weeks and several hundred miles. just started the stalling, idling problem all of a sudden.
can bad gas or low octane gas do this? I think my wife put in unlreaded regular which I beleive is 87 octane.




LONDONDERRY said:


> There could be many reasons for it stalling. I have and still having stalling issues as well. When was the car tuned up last?


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

dstanek said:


> do not know for sure as I got it from a dealer who got it from a much larger dealer via auction. The plugs, rotor and distributor all looked good shape visually but that might not mean much. Should I just start with a tuneup? kind of wierd becuase it rand fine for several weeks and several hundred miles. just started the stalling, idling problem all of a sudden.
> can bad gas or low octane gas do this? I think my wife put in unlreaded regular which I beleive is 87 octane.



Did you get an engine light? If you have the Haynes manual for the car it will tell you how to do it. A tune up might not be a bad idea, just use geniue nissan parts. I have a similar issue with my Altima, I threw in the towel


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## sliznode26 (Feb 23, 2005)

*RE: stalling/rough idle*



dstanek said:


> Just got a used 1995 altima gxe with 99,000 miles on it. It appears to be a clean well kep car but I do not know any of the car repair history on it.
> 
> Here's the problem: the first 3 weeks my daughter drove it no problems. Good zippy little car. Yesterday she reported it stalling. I went and drove and it seems to have issues while idling, where it will begin to hiccup and rough idle. Once in awhile while doing this it will kill. The car restarts easily and if you rev it up will idle smoothly for awhile but will return to rough idle and stalling. When driving I did notice a few hiccups when accelerating and going 35mph. Not many problems though when driving mostly just an idling issue. The rough idle can be made worse by turning on the lights and fan, as this puts strain on the engine?? This problem is fairly intermittent. I did take out one spark plug and it looked very clean. I took the cap off the distributor and the rotor looked good as did the contacts on the underside if the cap. I watched in the dark while it rough idled to see if I could see the spark plug cables arc or spark. Did not see anything there.
> 
> ...


I own a 95 altima SE and I am currently experiencing similar problems. I changed the distributor, spark plugs, positive battery cable, cap, rotor and cleaned off all other electrical connections. I was told today by my mechanic, that a few wires in the wiring harness most likely are the cause of the problems. He suggested replacing the harness from the second connection in from the front of the car which controls the cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, MAF sensor and others which are the major causes of the symptoms you are experiencing. the wires are causing intermittent skips in the signal and shutting down the car as a result. He also suggested looking in salvage yards for this part as a new one runs 500$ plus!! Hope this helps.

sliznode26


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

The 95 Altima is an OBD II equipped vehicle. Take it Auto Zone or similar stores to have them connect the code scanner and read the codes for free. Sometimes there are codes stored that do not trigger the Check Engine Light.
Also the fuel filter should be new and try purchasing the Haynes manual (~$12.99) or the factory service manual (~$75) for the Altima. I also recommend check the fuel injectors by putting the flat end of a large screwdriver on each injector with it running and the butt end next to your ear when it is running. Listen for a ticking on each one and then compare the sounds to the others if one sounds different or has no sound at all then it should be tested electrically. The injector has a resistance of between 10 and 14 ohms as measured with the harness disconnected.
The fuel pressure should also be checked with a gauge in line or the quick way by unplugging the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and plugging that at the end of the fuel rail. The fuel pressure should read ~ 43 psi. 
The Mass Air Flow meter can also be check by starting the vehicle and then unplugging it if it dies then it is probably working correctly, if not then it has a problem. The voltage on the sensor as measured at the no. 1 terminal (far laft will be less than 1 volt with the key on but not running. Then 1 - 1.7 volts with it running and warm. From idle to 4000 rpm the voltage rises in a linear rate to ~ 4 volts.


Troy


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## altima_mtl (Apr 1, 2005)

*Try looking at the Fuel pump*

Hi,

I have an Altime 1993 and 2 days ago, just 2 min after I started, my car had no power when I tried accelerating, it was sputtering. It was running ok thouh at Idle. So decided to go back home but as press again a little more on the gas to try to feel the problem it stalled, and was not able to start it again. I pushed it on the side
and troubleshoot it. When I turned the key to ON I did'nt heard the fuel pump priming. The fuse was OK and the relay also. So I've check the pump and the 12V was there, and the pump was giving me an open circuit(infinite resistance). So 400$ CAN later, everything was OK, the problem was really the fuel pump.

My dad who owns a Stanza 1991(same thing as an altima) had also aproblem with is fuel pump. But the effects where different. The car would be hard to start sometime, or would have a roiugh iddle, stall etc. In is case the resistance of the pump was OK, wich made the troubleshooting harder. But once he changed the fuel pump, all his problem were gone.

For sure you want to be 100% sure it's really the problem before spending 400$ for a new fuel pump !!

So here what you can do: 
check the resistance of the fuel pump (should be very low 0.5 to 5 ohm)
try hitting hard on your fuel tank with a stick, if you car start easily afterwards or runs smoother, you'll know it could be related to the fuel pump.

Good luck.


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## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

I also have a 1995 GXE. check the OBD code by removing the small plastic piece next to the drivers right foot attached to the center console. If you open this space up you will find the main computer where you can check trouble codes without a code reader. Using a small flathead screwdriver turn the screw (gently) all the way to the clockwise limit and watch for a flashing yellow light on the right side of the speedometer. Some car you may have to return it to the counter-clockwise limit before the flashing starts. There will be a series of short flashes and long flashes. Count all the shorts in a chain to get one number and all the long to get the next number. Look for the signal to repeat itself (3 or 4 times). If it flashes 55 then that means there is nothing wrong.

Another thing to look at is vacuum leaks (gaskets and hoses) and the IACV valve (Intake Air Control Valve) which is near the water temp sensor down between the intakes. It has a big *PLASTIC* screw on top of it. I would encourage you to count the number of clockwise rotations it takes before the screw stops and write it down. Return the screw to the original position and start slowly backing it out until it runs smoother. Idle is raised by turning this screw counter-clockwise. Only adjust the IACV after the throttle position sensor pigtail is disconnected. Disconnect only with engine off. Good Luck and thanks be to Paul the mechanic that taught me how to do this. Charles


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## Handyman2005 (May 19, 2006)

It seems to me that everyone is looking too far into this problem. It sounds exactly like the ditributor has an accumulation of oil in it and that will cause a host of problems. There is no reason to replace a distributor with this issue. There is a black , oddly shaped o-ring that goes around the base of the cover on the dist. It IS a replacement part and the cost is about $3.50. I replaced this seal after cleaning out the distributor with ELECTRONICS contact cleaner. DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT ELECTRONICS cleaner. You can just clean it out and run it without replacing the o-ring but the problem will resurface.
This is the first thing I did when I was given a 1995 Altima GXE with 198K miles on it. Have been using the car daily for over a year now without a single burp or hiccup!!! Good Luck


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## x60079 (Aug 20, 2007)

Handyman2005, can you give us the part number of the O ring your bought for $3.50? I spent 2 hours in my local dealership going through catalogs and mitchell on demand looking for this O ring. 
I agree, if there is oil in the distributor and the ECM can't read the engine RPM through the camshaft position sensor then will have a rough idle.
Also, the fuel pump and related wiring is not a detectable line for the MIL. If you are getting inadequate fuel pressure then your engine will most likely run lean and cause a rough ldle.
I would not be too quick to blame the IACV unless you do not get an increase in RPM if the steering wheel is turned quickly.


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## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

I have had trouble finding the o-ring also when I had to replace the distributor (for some reason there wasn't one) but the counterperson assured me that it would be under warranty if there was a problem. I pressed the black plastic piece down after putting a VERY thin bead of silicone gasket sealer where the two surfaces meet. After it dried I had no problems what so ever. I would have preferred to have had the o-ring but you do what you have to do. I am back on the road now with no signs of trouble. Goodluck.
Kaiser Willy


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## ruff (Mar 16, 2008)

sliznode26 said:


> I own a 95 altima SE and I am currently experiencing similar problems. I changed the distributor, spark plugs, positive battery cable, cap, rotor and cleaned off all other electrical connections. I was told today by my mechanic, that a few wires in the wiring harness most likely are the cause of the problems. He suggested replacing the harness from the second connection in from the front of the car which controls the cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, MAF sensor and others which are the major causes of the symptoms you are experiencing. the wires are causing intermittent skips in the signal and shutting down the car as a result. He also suggested looking in salvage yards for this part as a new one runs 500$ plus!! Hope this helps.
> 
> sliznode26


Nissan put out a bulletin about this
1. set base timing 20degrees +/- 2 degrees
2. base idle 650 rpm +/- 50 rpm

3. if base idle and speed within specification
replace... water temperature sensor with the following part number

manual 23710-4E802
automatic 23740-4E807
also there is an alternative ecm with a leaner air fuel mixture
the part number is 22630-51E20


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## BORNGEARHEAD (Apr 30, 2002)

Don't forget about the possibility of the intake manifold gasket leaking. That causes idle/stalling problems and is a very common problem.


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## woyteg (Mar 21, 2008)

Hi there. I have 1993 Altima 5 SPD and I am experiencing similar problems. In my case the car has no issues while the engine is not fully warm. While it has the working temperature the problem start. It is not really stalling. What happens is when I drive and put the stick on Neutral the RPMs will drop below 500 sometime even touching 0 but then they will jump back to 650. From time to time however when they touch 0 the engine will stop. My mechanic checked most of the things he thought may cause it including your suggestion in this thread but he gave up. Nissan told me there is no codes stored and said they can investigate but... it costs money. 
Any extra suggestions what else can cause it?


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## Jason H (May 26, 2008)

woyteg said:


> Hi there. I have 1993 Altima 5 SPD and I am experiencing similar problems. In my case the car has no issues while the engine is not fully warm. While it has the working temperature the problem start. It is not really stalling. What happens is when I drive and put the stick on Neutral the RPMs will drop below 500 sometime even touching 0 but then they will jump back to 650. From time to time however when they touch 0 the engine will stop. My mechanic checked most of the things he thought may cause it including your suggestion in this thread but he gave up. Nissan told me there is no codes stored and said they can investigate but... it costs money.
> Any extra suggestions what else can cause it?



I had the same issue in my 93, dealer said to change the O2 sensor and we did. No more issue. He said it was because it was old or bad and was having trouble reading how the fuel oil air mix was burning and was adjusting it rich to lean, rich to lean, and so on and so on. once we changed it out. it was fine.


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## Praetorian_1975 (Jul 14, 2004)

My 93 Altima had stalling problems like that and it turned out to be a knock sensor. Once you release off of the accelerator and let the engine idle, it would sputter and die. It was easy to restart but was just a pain and unsafe when driving.


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## Garage Battle (Feb 25, 2004)

you are probably all wrong.

YouTube - Nissan MAF Repair by Rob Fleming

if it gets in a mood where it wont start, just unplug the MAF quickly and start it. it will idle fine if its the problem. i can fix it for you cheap hit me on PM if interested.


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## liltanker22 (Jul 16, 2008)

*95 Altima will not start..*

It was running like crap, so i change the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, disturbor cap and rotor, new o2 sensor, the igintion coil shocked the shot out of me when i tested that...yeah one hand on the car..not such a good idea... new royal purple oil change, new air fliter..and now i have nothing. It turns over but will not start...It is gettin fuel, but it looks like there 3 wires with no spark. Replaced them, still only one is gettin spark...What is next to test and change??


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## Mr.Nissan (Nov 23, 2007)

Intake manifold gasket, first spay the area the Intake with carb cleaner if the car RPMS 
goes up, then there is leak, ie broken gasket, about a 4 hour job if you have the tools 
and know how to.
I have you checked fuel press


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## Mr.Nissan (Nov 23, 2007)

if the intake mainfold gasket is bad see:
http://www.nissanforums.com/u13-1993-1997-altima/139973-93-altima-intake-manifold.html
Nissan Enthusiast Forums - My Intake Gasket Replacement


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