# Who has solved this no start issue?



## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

1997 200sx SE
5-speed
211,xxx miles

The car was running fine... NO check engine lights or warning lights of any kind.

I decided to re-adjust my timing BACK to 10* from 12* roughly and I did this as I have done several times before with no issues.

Car again ran perfectly fine... in fact just a bit better... the check engine light was on as soon as I cranked it though.

I went to work and all was well... made my first delivery, still good. I made my second and the car was fine. I parked the car at work and on my next delivery the car would crank and crank and crank but would not run.

Air, Fuel, Spark... I started my checklist with the fuel. I loosened the clamp at the filter... I moved the hose and a little fuel wicked... I turned the key forward to the ON position, then off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it sprayed fuel. I determined that I had fuel.

Spark. I pulled the #4 plug wire, inserted a length of 12awg wire and held the other end to my strut tower brace, had a buddy crank it, it sparked... the other three did not. I have determined a possible spark issue. 

Air... no blockages, Spectra filter, clean.

I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes. Re-connected it and the car fired up and ran. I let it warm up then headed to my house 5.5 miles away. I got 1.5 miles from work and as I took a left through the traffic light the engine shut off. It has not started back up since then and is on the side of the road. I tried to disconnect the battery again but this time it did not help. All connectors are connected and clean. The dizzy is bolted down correctly... I even checked under the cap... the rotor and contacts are in great shape. This is a fairly new dizzy. As I said, the car has been running fine.

WHAT HAPPENED!?

I just put gas in the car the night before, fuses are fine. I have seen this issue several times on the internet but no solution... I know someone has fixed this and may or may not have shared the solution... please share as this is my only car and I may loose my job and house if I can't fix it. I will mail you pizza from work if you help me out here!


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

I may have made a mistake... I think I may have disconnected the IACV instead of the TPS when I adjusted my timing... I was wondering why my CEL came on... what do you all think? The IACV is right at the TB on the top... correct?... right, I mean... am I that stupid to disconnect the WRONG thing???? Holy crap... I think I am.


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

sounds like you've solved this no start issue.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

The problem is... how do I fix it now? Won't the computer have to re-learn that sensor? How can this happen if the car won't run?


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

Got the car home... finally. It has to be cold for the car to start... once it gets warm it dies.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

If you disconnected your IACV instead of your TPS, and then adjusted your timing, then your timing is likely set to something like 10+ degrees AFTER TDC instead of before TDC, because the ECU was NOT in the proper timing/base idle adjust mode.
So, now it's way down on power, might start cold ok, but won't hold an idle once it's warm because the timing backs off a bit when it warms up and/or the base idle is set wayyy too low for the IACV to compensate as well the timing is too far retarded to allow the engine to run worth a crap....etc..etc..etc..
Back to square one...set the base timing / base idle according to the spec's by putting the ECU into timing mode, check once, check it again, then check it again after a good drive...and quit messing with it.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

jdg said:


> If you disconnected your IACV instead of your TPS, and then adjusted your timing, then your timing is likely set to something like 10+ degrees AFTER TDC instead of before TDC, because the ECU was NOT in the proper timing/base idle adjust mode.
> So, now it's way down on power, might start cold ok, but won't hold an idle once it's warm because the timing backs off a bit when it warms up and/or the base idle is set wayyy too low for the IACV to compensate as well the timing is too far retarded to allow the engine to run worth a crap....etc..etc..etc..
> Back to square one...set the base timing / base idle according to the spec's by putting the ECU into timing mode, check once, check it again, then check it again after a good drive...and quit messing with it.




Ok... I think I follow your logic... I have a theory as well.

Basically what I did was turn my car into my nagging girlfriend... she does the opposite of what I ask... you follow?

I told the car to be at 10* (fourth mark on the pulley assuming that the first mark is -5) and the car was still in control because I didn't properly put it in the correct timing mode. So when I said hey babe, go to 10*, she said NO and went the other way right?

My theory is... Do exactly what I did before... disconnect the IACV and fans but this time move the dizzy the other way and the computer should do the opposite right? Once that is done I should be able to set time the right way and be done with it... right? Or does the computer only adjust in one direction? It would make sense that it goes both ways... since it's a chick.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

thxone said:


> Ok... I think I follow your logic... I have a theory as well.
> 
> Basically what I did was turn my car into my nagging girlfriend... she does the opposite of what I ask... you follow?
> 
> ...


No, the only way, and when I say only I mean ONLY (except for using a Consult tool) way to set the timing / base idle is to use the proper procedure as noted in the stickies (some of the Haynes manuals are missing a step, so unless you have one and you know it's correct, don't trust it).
If you don't use the right method, the whole time you are messing with your timing, you are fighting the ECU. Not only are you fighting the ECU and timing with respect to RPM, you are fighting the amount of ECU given advance with respect to temperature, any possible TPS changes, various engine loads, and probably a handful of other variables.
Get everything set up CORRECTLY using the right methods, base timing, base idle RPM, base everything, put a couple of scribe marks on the distributor and the base and leave it at that.
The perceived amount of power increase, fuel mileage increase, performance increase, etc.etc.etc. is negligible. You can put all the go-faster parts you want on this engine...exhaust, cold air intake, bump up the timing, quad-unobtainium tipped plugs, JEGs stickers, whatever. Without changing the ECU programming, you're exactly where you were when you started.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

Ok... but i can't get the car to stay running when it warms up... can't set it cold right?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Can't keep it running or can't keep it idling?


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

jdg said:


> Can't keep it running or can't keep it idling?


It runs until the temp gauge get to the normal operating temp... as soon as it does that the car shuts off. I adjusted the timing as best I could with the car cold... check it to 10*, Just before it shut off, when the engine was warm I checked again... still 10* 4th mark on the pulley. The Check engine light is on. I tried the screw on the ECU... turned it clockwise fully, waited two seconds, turned it counter clockwise fully and the CEL blinked... no clue what the code was... a 2 a 3 and a 5 but no clue what order... turned the screw clockwise, waited two seconds then turned it counter clock wise... light stopped blinking... but is still on. I tried again and all I get are 1's... long and short. so I repeated the steps... light is still on.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

Idle is at 650rpm's


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

You're the same guy that put something on the exhaust right?


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

I did a header and cat back... but that has been fine


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I'm out...


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

Thanks anyway


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

*SOLVED!*

Bought a code reader... P0340. Camshaft Position Sensor... which is in the Dizzy. Got a reman from AutoZone.

The car tried to fight me but I kept it running until it calmed down. I had to hold the throttle at 2,000rpm's and the car would drop down and I would have to rev it back up and hold at 2,000 three or four times before it settled down... Set the idle and timing. Now the car is running and hasn't cut off. I drove it for a while with no issues. All told I bough the code reader $60, the Crankshaft Position Sensor $70, The Coolant Temp Sensor $24 and the Distributor $219.

:loser:


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

thxone said:


> Got a reman from AutoZone.


Hopefully you got the lifetime replacement warranty on it. Wouldn't count on it to last...although weirder stuff has happened.


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## EvilPotato (Sep 6, 2005)

for $25 you could get Amazon.com: Diagnostic Interface Nissan Consult: Car Electronics 
i bought mine long time ago, works only on nissan consult ports, unlike the code reader which works on ant car with obd2. i bought mine mainly to get the car in timing mode (i know, straightforward procedure but i just couldnt do it) but it does many other things, like read and reset error codes, read and realtime monitoring of the sensors that sends signal to the ECU and other things depending on which software you use.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I've never had much of a problem getting it into the timing mode, but for the price of that interface/software above...heck, that's worth it.
:thumbup:


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

jdg said:


> Hopefully you got the lifetime replacement warranty on it. Wouldn't count on it to last...although weirder stuff has happened.


If I keep the car I am going to save up for the brand new distributor. I may sell it and get another 280zx or an early 90's Jeep Cherokee XJ.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

I drove the car for two days to make sure it would not screw up again. It was fine so I set the idle and timing correctly. It's now at 10* and idles when warm at 675 rpm's. I also put the baffle in my muffler... the car is quieter and running very smooth.


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## thxone (Feb 7, 2012)

We may be re-visiting this issue again. The car, now at 221,900 miles, is starting to stall at lights again. It is running fine otherwise. It is how the car started out before... erratic idle... bogging down at lights, then stalling. I have also noticed something... sometime my brakes don't work so well... I have new but now properly broken in slotted rotors up front but every now and then if I run the air the brakes don't want to work and the pedal gets real stiff. Vacuum leak? Anyway, I think I need to replace the Dizzy again... I hope it's under warranty.


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