# x trail vibrates



## glom (May 10, 2012)

Hello all,

i am new to this site. I took my 2005 xtrail 123,000 km 2.5 engine for an oil change and maintenance package 2 (canada) with dealer. ended up getting a transmission flush, interior cabin filter change, brake clean up/lubrication and tires rotated. Problem is before i brought the car in it purred like a kitty and drove great NOW
1. eratic idling when in drive but stopped and engine rattles 
2. car vibrates when in drive at stop (feel it in cabin i.e. in steering wheel, in seat, etc.)
3. don't have as much power (i can press the gas pedal all the way down and the RPMs go up but speed bearly increases)

went back to dealer and they did diagnostic on engine and came back fine. they did idle relearn and that seemed to help the initial rough idling when in drive but car still vibrates and there is a rattling noise. they say that nothing they did could have caused the vibrating...all i know is before i brought it in it wasn't doing this and immediately after picking it up it was...any ideas? what else can i ask the dealer to check? thanks everyone...much appreciated. 

Glom


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## labbink (Apr 20, 2012)

I changed my air filter to a K&N air filter which seemed to help a little bit. Then just recently I got the exhaust from the engine to the catalytic converter replaced under warranty (I just bought mine a month ago) and it doesnt seem to vibrate at all now when stopped in drive.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Just saw this post, and wanted to share my experience. I used to have a vibration at stops, that I could eliminate by putting the transmission into neutral. After doing a manual double drain and fill of the auto transmission fluid, no more vibration or rough idling whatsoever. I used the Castrol ATF for imports including Nissan. It also shifts beautifully. The Nissan service manual specifies to do drain and fill and repeat if fluid is still dirty. I did my second drain and fill a week after the first. By my calculation this means I have replaced approx 65% of the original ATF. Was going to do a third change to get to 80% or so but I got busy and then weather got cold. I will do another drain and fill when summer comes.


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## ckdub (Feb 11, 2014)

Did you require a new tranny drain plug washer in your flush? Plan to do in spring. Thanks


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Says to in the manual, but when I called the dealership to get one, they said they would have to special order one, and added that they just reuse the old one. Nothing special about it, just a thin brass washer, but I do not know the exact size. I just reused my existing one. Checked for leak later and its fine. Good luck with it. Really makes a difference. I think it refreshes the lubricants and cleans the torque converter a bit, and consequently the torque converter runs smoother without the annoying vibration.


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## ckdub (Feb 11, 2014)

Thanks for the input. I'm def. going to do it this spring...110,000km so good time to that - looking at the Castrol Import or Valvoline Maxlife which both seem compatible...

Then maybe look into coolant drain/fill... now's the time to ensure this drives another 110,000 or more... that I think I need genuine nissan coolant?

Wonder if time to do transfer case or rear diff fluild. I will do a search to see if there's any DIY instructions for those items.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

glom said:


> Hello all,
> 
> i am new to this site. I took my 2005 xtrail 123,000 km 2.5 engine for an oil change and maintenance package 2 (canada) with dealer. ended up getting a transmission flush, interior cabin filter change, brake clean up/lubrication and tires rotated. Problem is before i brought the car in it purred like a kitty and drove great NOW
> 1. eratic idling when in drive but stopped and engine rattles
> ...


From reading your post, it sounds like maybe a cylinder is not firing. How does it idle when in park or neutral? You might want to do an ECU code readout to see if any fault codes got set.

I try to tell people to avoid doing A/T flushes unless absolutely necessary. Many times flushes introduce new problems.


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## ckdub (Feb 11, 2014)

rogoman said:


> ...
> 
> I try to tell people to avoid doing A/T flushes unless absolutely necessary. Many times flushes introduce new problems.


How/when can you tell it's absolutely necessary - until then just top up as required?? Or are you mean avoid the flush and opt for less invasive drain/refill a couple times?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I would stay away from the flush as well, but nothing wrong with doing a drain and fill. Just make sure you use appropriate transmission fluid. Re coolant I used Prestone multi vehicle for Japanese cars. For front transfer case and rear differential used Valvoline Gear oil. If your coolant has never been changed, I would say its due now. I would stay away from places that flush and then recycle and condition the coolant. Probably not as bad as Transmission flush in terms of risk of damaging your vehicle, but I am convinced its not as good as using fresh coolant. Front transfer case gear oil is worth changing. Mine was filthy and degrading. Unlike the rear its a pain to get at, and I suspect many owners neglect having it changed.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

ckdub said:


> How/when can you tell it's absolutely necessary - until then just top up as required?? Or are you mean avoid the flush and opt for less invasive drain/refill a couple times?


Just avoid the flush and only do a drain/refill like every 30,000 mi. If the A/T is just not working correctly and everything else was tried, then as a last resort, a flush might be warranted.


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