# Clutch won't disengage.



## syed2007 (Jun 7, 2012)

I just got a 85 300ZX(T) and it's been siting for a year before it was started. At first it appeared as if it would not enage fully, and when I was trying to park it in my driveway it would not engage at all. My neighbor was able to put it in first without using the clutch just to park. So I siponed just the clutch fluid resivor (not flushed it) and put new brake fluid and tried driving it. Now it's doing the oppisite it looks like it's stuck on and won't disengage.  I'm a noob, and this is my first manual car.
Should I do a complete flush? 
Do you think something else is wrong.
Also at first the clutch pedal felt soft now it feels hard. (or that's just my imagination)


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you are trying to depress the clutch pedal and the pedal is not going to the floor and disengaging the clutch, I would suspect the clutch may have rusted and is stuck. You might try putting it in first and, with the parking brake "off," rocking the car back and forth to try and break it loose. You could also try jarring it by using the starter, but you don't want to try this too much to prevent damaging the starter. If that doesn't work, your only other option would be to remove the trans to get at and replace the clutch assy. If the pedal is going to the floor but, with the engine running, you cannot shift it into gear, then you have a hydraulic system issue. May need to bleed the system or replace the clutch master or slave, as necessary. Sitting for extended periods is never good for any vehicle.


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## automanix (Jun 12, 2012)

Get your clutch plates checked.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

might also check the pivot ball (for the fork that the slave push's) sometimes they snapped


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## syed2007 (Jun 7, 2012)

@smj999smj
The clutch is stuck engaged, and not disengaging. And the first time I started it I accidentally started on first (at that time in was stuck on disengage, and I could only move the shifter when it was off) and it did jerk so that might have took care of the rust. I'm going to flush it as soon as I'm free.
Also I don't want to tow it before trying anything else.
@SPEEDO
I just got a haynes manual, and I think I know what your talking about from the diagrams. But how would I get their and how would I remove it?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If the vehicle moved, that means the clutch was engaged; I think you're getting the two confused. If the clutch is working properly, when you press down the clutch pedal, it disengages the clutch which allows you to shift. When you release the pedal, it engages the clutch. As far as the clutch release fork breaking through on the ball pivot stud, you would have to remove the trans to replace it. If you have a "hard" pedal as you describe, I don't think flushing is going to do any good; I think you're going to have to drop the trans and replace the clutch assy. If the flywheel surface is rusty or scored, it should be resurfaced or replaced as necessary.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

Jack up the car and watch the slave while someone presses the pedal. See if it's even moving.


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## syed2007 (Jun 7, 2012)

It's the clutch my mechanic checked it out. Do you know what clutch I should get he was telling me to get a cheap $100 clutch (I'll admit he's not a car mechanic specifically) but should I get a racing clutch. I will be driving fast but not every secound and def not on a track. Although I'm kinda broke, so I don't want to spend over $300.
Here's a cheap one should I get it?
Autoplicity.com. Exedy Clutch OEM Replacement Clutch Kit Disc Dia. 240mm - 06031

Racing stage 4?
F1 Racing Stage 4 Clutch Kit 1985 Nissan 300ZX Turbo Cpe 3.0L V6 Turbo

Edit:
Is their a good site where I can get my clutch quickly, but at the same time not get ripped off? (don't know if I should trust ebay for car parts?)


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you're not racing, then a stock clutch will be fine. Nissan's original equipment clutch is made by Valeo. If you want a clutch from the OEM manufacturer, Rockauto.com offers a Valeo clutch kit for $134; Nissan used to offer (and probably still do) their Key Value Clutch kits for a reasonable price. That said, Exedy is a reputable and well known maker of clutches and the kit you listed will probably be just fine. One thing most kits don't provide is the clips on the release bearing collar that keep it attached to the clutch release fork. These clips commonly wear through after a lot of miles. I would suggest you get two of these clips from Nissan; they are P/N: 30514-14600. Make sure he also carefully inspects the "dimple" on the clutch release fork where the fork rides on the ball pivot stud. If it shows cracks or a lot of wear, it should be replaced as well, P/N: 30513-01S00. If he drains the oil from the trans, make sure he replaces it with GL-4 gear oil, or a GL-5 that specifically states that it is safe for "yellow metals."


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## syed2007 (Jun 7, 2012)

I ended up buying this clutch:




and two of these:
S12 200SX Z31 Z32 300ZX S110 720 Clutch Release Bearing Spring Holder OEM | eBay

I couldn't find the second part:
is this it though 




And for the GL-4 gear oil I see different types:
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Gear Oil for Manual Transmissions - MTL 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil

I may just go to an advance auto parts for that...


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yes, that's the clutch release fork. You would have to get one from a Nissan dealer, if you need it. Since you have the "spring clip" type, you only need one; the other style Nissan uses has two seperate, spring metal clips. Red Line synthetic will work, but it's expensive. Pennzoil offers two GL-4 gear oils: Gearplus 80W90 GL-4 and Pennzoil Synthetic SAE 75W90 GL-4. CRC Stay-Lube Multi-Purpose Gear oil SAE 85W90 GL-4 is also available.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

Just to reiterate, as some people ignore the warning: GL-4 ONLY. GL-5 will eat the materials used in the synchronizers and cause shifting issues. I personally use Redline in my Nissans, but that's due to a lack of readily available cheaper alternatives.


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## syed2007 (Jun 7, 2012)

Btw is their anything else he should do while down there. Also I heard OEM replacement clutches will break down fast if I add too much power; although I don't think I'm going to do some crazy performance mods maybe just a little. I should be fine right?


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