# infinity speakers



## datboimell (Aug 31, 2004)

i got my speakers........finally...........they are infinity Kappa series......

model--- 62.7i
type ---- 6 1/2" 2 way
speaker impedance ----- 2 ohms
power handling-------- 75w RMS , 225W peak
sensitivity ( 2.83v, 1m)------ 95dB
frequency response-------- 45Hz - 25kHz
mounting depth --------- 2-3/16" (56mm)
cut out diameter------5" (127mm)

wut amp could i use to pump those things...i have 2 sets of those speakers..............the amp has to infinity..........tell me u think...... :hal:


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

Wow, those sound just like the set I used to own. I blew them on the 2nd day, giving them 50 watts, no distortion, with a high pass x-over set to 100 hz. Proceed with caution.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

never blew mine, but I did hate them with a passion, they were in my car for a month before I could afford new speakers to swap them back out, they've been sitting in my closet ever since


Any amp should work fine, just about any external amp will have enough power at 2ohm to bring them up to a good level. Why do you want an infinity amp? They're decent, but just like their speakers, you can get better for the money.

I would get a small 2ch amp (any small 2ch amp will give those speakers at least 70-100rms @ 2ohm) for the front speakers, leave the rears on the headunit, and put the extra money into a sub, because with those speakers you're going to need it. Deadening the doors will help too, might want to look into that.


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## datboimell (Aug 31, 2004)

the reason i want an infinity amp is because i dont want alot of mixed brands for the system.....so if i get infinity i want everything infinity, mtx, pioneer...etc...u get it dont ya........but any small 2 channel amp huh........ok thanks and i am goin to get subs....maybe just one 8" infinity...................this system should sound really good when done.....i got 2 sets of the speakers for 145$ thanks to ebay... :thumbup: :cheers: here are the stats of the sub i wanna get......( might get 2 of those  )

www.infinitysystems.com

Power Handling, RMS: 200 Watts 
Power Handling, Peak: 800 Watts 
Sensitivity: 91dB 
Frequency Response: 30Hz - 400Hz 
Mounting Depth: 4-5/16" 
Impedance: 4 Ohms


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

You know, limiting yourself to one brand does nothing but limit your system's potential. It offers no advantages at all, only negatives. Especially when the brand you choose isn't really that great at anything. And your link doesn't work, just goes to Infinity's main site.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Alright I found the sub, $100 for that thing? What more do I have to say to steer you away from Infinity? I highly, highly doubt that sub will do it for you, even 2. You can do so much better for the money....


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## datboimell (Aug 31, 2004)

i will take you guys advice...cuz i kno you kno what your talking about......i was thinking about a set of 12's from infinity or goin with just 15" solobaric..........would that be better....????? :thumbup:


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Depends on what you're going for, sound quality or just getting loud. I hear pretty negative reviews about most of the Infinity subwoofers, but mostly positive reviews about the kappa perfect vq. The solobaric is notorious for getting very loud and sounding like crap. Depending on your price range there are other choices which combine the positive aspects of each without the negatives. Image Dynamics, Adire (if they ever release their new lineup), Resonant Engineering, etc.


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## jlee1469 (Dec 4, 2003)

Hey I'm gonna have to agree with sr20 that you should look around for more options. Check around the web... and the TONS of car audio msgboards such as caraudio.com. Theres a lot of great information out there. Sure Infinity is good... prolly the best shit around in Circuit City since Alpine is gone. Pretty much anything sold in the store theres always better through specialty audio shops or the web.

ANYWAYS sorry for getting offtopic. Any 4-channel amp should be fine  A suggestion I have is the JBL 80.4, cause JBL amps have been very reliable for me.


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## datboimell (Aug 31, 2004)

is the brand PYLE any good


http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-PYLE-12-100...809920802QQcategoryZ18803QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

thump up :thumbup: or thump down :thumbdwn:


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

No. Pyle is garbage.


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

*Infinity Kappas really that bad?*

Hi guys...

Think you may have saved me from a costly mistake... Was going to put Infinity Kappa 50.7cs and Infinity Kappa 652.7i in my Sentra. I have a Pioneer DEH-1500 deck in there now. Pulled it from my sister's Corolla when she wrecked it. 

So what's the problem with the Kappa series? I thought Infinity were supposed to be great. Not Bose or Boston great, but you get the picture. 

I can see how you would blow them if you over-power them. Hook them up to a deck / amp with too much wattage, but it looks like they should be able to handle a pretty high ammount of power. 

Any alternatives to similar models here? A friend of mine who does competition audio stuff told me Kicker or JL audio. Unfortunately, according to Crutchfield, they don't carry a lot that fits the front decks on my car without a lot of modification. Only reason I go Crutchfield is because of their service department, they give you the removal / install manuals, wiring schematics, wiring harnesses, and any needed brackets too. (no, I'm not pimping crutchfield, I like other vendors too, but they're my first choice)

So, would my choice in receiver have a negative affect on my choice in speakers? I want good, clear sounding speakers, with a good ammount of power. I'm not out to make my car move down the street on bass power alone. 
Zorak Out.


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

datboimell said:


> is the brand PYLE any good
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-PYLE-12-100...809920802QQcategoryZ18803QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> ...


I wouldn't trust ebay speakers either. Blow em, sell em. 

Zorak Out.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

infazorak said:


> So what's the problem with the Kappa series? I thought Infinity were supposed to be great. Not Bose or Boston great, but you get the picture.


Yeah they are "supposed" to be good, by their own words, but for some reason they suck. Not as hard as pyle or pyramid, but for the price they charge you could do much better. Notice that no one competes in sq contests with infinity. 


infazorak said:


> I can see how you would blow them if you over-power them. Hook them up to a deck / amp with too much wattage, but it looks like they should be able to handle a pretty high ammount of power.


Actually, its usually too little watts that murder speakers. Not many people have an amp strong enough to kill speakers with clean power. A deck is a perfect example of this, it can frag speakers with only 18-20 watts of power.


infazorak said:


> Any alternatives to similar models here? A friend of mine who does competition audio stuff told me Kicker or JL audio. Unfortunately, according to Crutchfield, they don't carry a lot that fits the front decks on my car without a lot of modification. Only reason I go Crutchfield is because of their service department, they give you the removal / install manuals, wiring schematics, wiring harnesses, and any needed brackets too. (no, I'm not pimping crutchfield, I like other vendors too, but they're my first choice)


Look at Metra wiring/dash kits. Generally, that is what the crutch uses. I ordered Metra gear straight from Parts Express and it came with a fat little instruction book that looked identical to the ones crutch uses. As far as speaker fitment, it really isnt hard to put different speakers in stock locations. Just look at the diameter and mounting depth. If you need an inch or two, making a mounting ring out of wood is easy. 


infazorak said:


> So, would my choice in receiver have a negative affect on my choice in speakers? I want good, clear sounding speakers, with a good ammount of power. I'm not out to make my car move down the street on bass power alone.
> Zorak Out.


The important thing is that your deck has pre amp outputs. Almost all but the shittiest have them. You really get down to splitting hairs when you talk about sq out of different head units, so until you compete just buy what you like.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

And for the record, Bose is bad, really really bad. Their home theater systems use $3 speakers in plastic or very thin (and unbraced) mdf cabinets and then they slap a $1500 price tag on it. Just thought I would throw that out there, Bose is the laughing stock of the audio community, Infinity would wipe the floor with them (and you can see how much I like Infinity above...).


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

sr20dem0n said:


> And for the record, Bose is bad, really really bad. Their home theater systems use $3 speakers in plastic or very thin (and unbraced) mdf cabinets and then they slap a $1500 price tag on it. Just thought I would throw that out there, Bose is the laughing stock of the audio community, Infinity would wipe the floor with them (and you can see how much I like Infinity above...).


Hmm. Well, I donno too much about the construction of their home systems. I have a Klipsch Promdeia THX 5.1 system on my PC; sounds awesome, and the sub makes the neighbors two buildings down complain when I turn it up too high. Onkyo 6.1 system in the living room. Again, the sub makes anything in the apartment vibrate. When I have the system tuned right, I get crisp highs and deep lows on it. Although I have been known to drool over the Boes home stuff. I didn't know they were that crappy. 

But, we're off topic.​*Zorak Out*


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

captain_shrapnel said:


> Yeah they are "supposed" to be good, by their own words, but for some reason they suck. Not as hard as pyle or pyramid, but for the price they charge you could do much better. Notice that no one competes in sq contests with infinity.
> 
> Actually, its usually too little watts that murder speakers. Not many people have an amp strong enough to kill speakers with clean power. A deck is a perfect example of this, it can frag speakers with only 18-20 watts of power.
> 
> ...


Wow man, good post there. I know I learned a lot there. Thanks for the note about Metra and Parts Express. Got some URL's for them? Or I could just go google them. 

So, if low power is what can destroy speakers, how do you overcome that? Is it the cleanlyness of the low power that does it? I'm a little lost there. 

Fortunatley my pioneer does have preamp outs. I was going to use them to wire in a sub in the future. 

And here's a dumb question. What's SQ? I don't really intend on competing, just want good sound in my car. I saw in a previous post here that "Alpine is out"??? Out of business? their website is still up, and I see products all over from them. Did they start building crap now? 
*Zorak Out *


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

infazorak said:


> Hmm. Well, I donno too much about the construction of their home systems. I have a Klipsch Promdeia THX 5.1 system on my PC; sounds awesome, and the sub makes the neighbors two buildings down complain when I turn it up too high. Onkyo 6.1 system in the living room. Again, the sub makes anything in the apartment vibrate. When I have the system tuned right, I get crisp highs and deep lows on it. Although I have been known to drool over the Boes home stuff. I didn't know they were that crappy.
> 
> But, we're off topic.​*Zorak Out*



They have a good reputation, and I have no idea why. Probably the same reason Monster has a good reputation, you can spit out anything you want and if you put a high enough price tag on it and get patents (even though it's a patent for crap) people will think it's good. It also has to do with all of the technical terminology they use when talking about their products, even though what they're saying really means absolutely nothing, in fact many of the things they say are really bad from a sound quality (SQ) perspective, they're just big words and people are impressed by big words.




infazorak said:


> So, if low power is what can destroy speakers, how do you overcome that? Is it the cleanlyness of the low power that does it? I'm a little lost there.


Well, it's not low power that destroys speakers, if that were the case then every time you turned down the volume your speakers would blow. Speakers can only blow from being overpowered, but what people don't realize is that you can overpower a speaker with a small amp if you drive it into clipping. Audio signals are just a voltage wave that is made up of a bunch of different sine waves. If you play one solid tone (similar to hitting one key on a piano or the like) then the voltage would look just like a single sine wave. This is what your amp is feeding your speakers, and the movement of the speaker's cone is directly proportional to the voltage that's being fed to it (if you watched the movement of a speaker's cone in slow motion, it would look exactly like the voltage wave that you're feeding it). The peak voltage (how high/low the sine wave reaches at its peaks) determines how loud the sound coming out of the speaker will be (higher voltage means the cone moves more which means greater pressure changes which means louder sound). When you push an amp too far, the voltage starts hitting the amp's rail voltage (there are 2 voltage "rails" in an amp, they determine how high the output voltage can go, the output voltage cannot pass the rail voltages, and they're always at +/- some voltage, like say +10v and -10v), and the peaks of the sine wave start to get cut off, like the yellow wave in this figure:








_-taken from www.bcae1.com_

If the clipping gets bad enough, it can start to look like this:








_-taken from www.bcae1.com_

The yellow wave is the maximum clean output the amp is capable of, and if you keep turning up the volume it starts to clip and ends up looking like the white wave. As you can see, the peak voltage is the same, so they will sound just as loud as each other, but the white wave is delivering a LOT more power to the speaker than the yellow wave is (you can think of the power as the area under the curve). An amp rated at 100 watts can deliver up to 200 watts if you drive it into full clipping, so if you have a 150 watt speaker, you can still blow it with a 100 watt amp if you clip the amp bad enough.


edit: damn, you can barely see those pictures on this background, well this is the page they were taken from, which explains pretty much what I just said.
http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

sr20dem0n said:


> They have a good reputation, and I have no idea why. Probably the same reason Monster has a good reputation, you can spit out anything you want and if you put a high enough price tag on it and get patents (even though it's a patent for crap) people will think it's good. It also has to do with all of the technical terminology they use when talking about their products, even though what they're saying really means absolutely nothing, in fact many of the things they say are really bad from a sound quality (SQ) perspective, they're just big words and people are impressed by big words.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Geez dude, had me thinking back to engineering class back in Highschool.... all fo six years ago... gah... So what you said, makes perfect sense in that case. 

Lemme quote some gospel from my Pioneer owner's manual;

continuous 22 W per channel into 4 ohms both channels driven 50 to 15000 Hz 
Maximum Powe routput 50 W x 4
Load impedence 4 ohms (4-8 ohms allowable)
So, in theory, if I run un-amped other than what the receiver delivers, I can get away with speakers that are rated above 100 wats? That may explain when I first set the deck up in my sister's car, the Kenwood speakers I put in started to "warble". I THINK they were rated to handle 80 watts or something. 

Again, I'm not looking for competition grade speakers. I just don't want to blow out whatever I'm going to put on my DEH-1500 deck. But I also want "good sounding" speakers. 

I just read the speaker stickey here. Seems the Kappas are pretty low rated by a lot of folks. Also, my GF wigged out when she found out that the Kapps would cost us about $420 for front and back. So I think we're looking at something a little less expensive. Thinking either Kicker or RF. 

** slaps forhead ** SQ=Sound quality DOH!

Been a lot of help here!
Thanks!
*Zorak Out*


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## datboimell (Aug 31, 2004)

learned alot in a few mins..................... :thumbup: :hal:


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

infazorak said:


> Lemme quote some gospel from my Pioneer owner's manual;
> 
> continuous 22 W per channel into 4 ohms both channels driven 50 to 15000 Hz
> Maximum Powe routput 50 W x 4
> ...



Well, thermally yes the speakers would probably be fine, but they could still blow mechanically. When you play too low of a frequency with too much power, the speaker moves too far and bottoms out, which can bend the former, screw up the coil, rip the spider or surround...all kinds of crap. There's no telling how much power it will take to damage a speaker mechanically (the ratings don't tell you jack when it comes to mechanical power handling), you just have to listen to it and if you hear it distorting or bottoming out then you know you have to turn it down. A highpass filter will help in this situation, it reduces the amount of power being delivered to the speaker at low frequencies to keep it from bottoming out, your headunit might have a highpass filter available that you can turn on, but it may not.

As for other speakers to check out, CDT is worth a look. Find "djdilliodon" on aim and you can find prices for CDT, he's an authorized dealer who has lower prices than just about anyone else.


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

sr20dem0n said:


> A highpass filter will help in this situation, it reduces the amount of power being delivered to the speaker at low frequencies to keep it from bottoming out...


OK dumb question. High pass filter vs bass blocker? They obviously aren't the same. But aren't they supposed to do the same thing? Whatever speakers end up going in the car will probably get some sort of device on them to block the lows, so as to let the subwoover handle that part. 
*Zorak Out*


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

infazorak said:


> OK dumb question. High pass filter vs bass blocker? They obviously aren't the same. But aren't they supposed to do the same thing? Whatever speakers end up going in the car will probably get some sort of device on them to block the lows, so as to let the subwoover handle that part.
> *Zorak Out*


Bass blockers aren't really a good solution, because the crossover point they list constantly changes with the changing impedance of the speaker. Also, they are typically 6db/octave which is too shallow a slope to use.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

infazorak said:


> OK dumb question. High pass filter vs bass blocker? They obviously aren't the same. But aren't they supposed to do the same thing? Whatever speakers end up going in the car will probably get some sort of device on them to block the lows, so as to let the subwoover handle that part.
> *Zorak Out*



Actually they are the same thing, a 1st order passive highpass filter is just a capacitor in series with the load, which is what the bass blockers are. Like captain_shrapnel said though, a 1st order filter has a very shallow slope and wouldn't do you too much good. You would want something more like a 2nd or 3rd order filter (12 and 18dB/oct respectfully), which is what's typically found in headunits and amps.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> Well, it's not low power that destroys speakers, if that were the case then every time you turned down the volume your speakers would blow. Speakers can only blow from being overpowered, but what people don't realize is that you can overpower a speaker with a small amp if you drive it into clipping. Audio signals are just a voltage wave that is made up of a bunch of different sine waves. If you play one solid tone (similar to hitting one key on a piano or the like) then the voltage would look just like a single sine wave. This is what your amp is feeding your speakers, and the movement of the speaker's cone is directly proportional to the voltage that's being fed to it (if you watched the movement of a speaker's cone in slow motion, it would look exactly like the voltage wave that you're feeding it). The peak voltage (how high/low the sine wave reaches at its peaks) determines how loud the sound coming out of the speaker will be (higher voltage means the cone moves more which means greater pressure changes which means louder sound). When you push an amp too far, the voltage starts hitting the amp's rail voltage (there are 2 voltage "rails" in an amp, they determine how high the output voltage can go, the output voltage cannot pass the rail voltages, and they're always at +/- some voltage, like say +10v and -10v), and the peaks of the sine wave start to get cut off, like the yellow wave in this figure:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is what I was saying in layman's terms, to someone who probably hasn't had much experience in audio. A small amp is commonly driven to clipping by people looking to get more out of it then what it is capable of. Hard clipping will kill a speaker, not only for the added power you mentioned, but because at every flattened peak, the cone is slammed to a point, then held there until the wave form returns to its curvy part. This puts extreme mechanical strain on the moving parts of a speaker. Now on the other hand, an amp that is too large will be able to put more than enough power into a speaker, but rarely is because that level of clean power is expensive so it almost never happens. Likewise, the un-clipped waveform of equal power output versus a clipped one will be significantly less damaging because the time of the waveform at peak output is momentary, whereas a clipped or squarewave can put up to 99% of its peak power almost continuously. Not to mention that when a cone has hit the limits of a clipped waveform, it stops moving thus not venting air through the voice coil leading to quicker overheating. So, for all intents and purposes the smaller amp/head unit will be responsible for killing speakers much more readily than a large amp.


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

I think lemans terms would be a low powered clipped signal is more prone to blowing than a overpowred unclipped signal. A overpowred clipped signal is more prone to blowing than a underpowered clipped signal. Just like a unclipped low powered signal is less prone to blow than an overpowred unclipped signal. Clipping is what blows speakers


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

Thanks a lot guys. Again, a wealth of knowledge. 
Since I rarely "blast" my stereo too loud anyway, I don't think i'll have too much of a problem. Picked up some Rockford Fosgate speakers this afternoon. Power T162C Coax's for he back, and Punch P152S components for the front. I'll put in high-pass filters just to be safe. 
*Zorak Out*


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

scrappy said:


> I think lemans terms would be a low powered clipped signal is more prone to blowing than a overpowred unclipped signal. A overpowred clipped signal is more prone to blowing than a underpowered clipped signal. Just like a unclipped low powered signal is less prone to blow than an overpowred unclipped signal. Clipping is what blows speakers



I think it's the wording that confuses people, it's impossible to blow speakers by underpowering, clipped or unclipped, bottom line. The thing that people don't realize is that clipping increases the power being delivered to the speakers by quite a bit. If you blow a speaker you are overpowering it, that's the jist of it, but you can overpower a speaker with a small amp if you drive it into clipping. Just don't call it underpowered, because if it's capable of blowing the speaker it's overpowering it.


I understand the thought process people come up with, but it confuses newbies when people say that small amps destroy speakers. Small amps don't destroy speakers, retards who don't understand the concept of distortion destroy speakers. You can power a 200rms set of speakers with a 20rms amp without a problem in the world, and you can power a 20rms set of speakers with an amp capable of 200rms without a problem in the world. I'm a huge fan of headroom, if my amp isn't delivering over twice what the speaker is rated at, I'm not happy, but I'm weird like that. It's hard to put what I'm thinking into words really....I'm probably coming off sounding like an idiot, you can blame that on the Shiner, but I promise there's some kind of logic at the root of what I'm saying....


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

sr20dem0n said:


> I think it's the wording that confuses people, it's impossible to blow speakers by underpowering, clipped or unclipped, bottom line. The thing that people don't realize is that clipping increases the power being delivered to the speakers by quite a bit. If you blow a speaker you are overpowering it, that's the jist of it, but you can overpower a speaker with a small amp if you drive it into clipping. Just don't call it underpowered, because if it's capable of blowing the speaker it's overpowering it.
> 
> 
> I understand the thought process people come up with, but it confuses newbies when people say that small amps destroy speakers. Small amps don't destroy speakers, retards who don't understand the concept of distortion destroy speakers. You can power a 200rms set of speakers with a 20rms amp without a problem in the world, and you can power a 20rms set of speakers with an amp capable of 200rms without a problem in the world. I'm a huge fan of headroom, if my amp isn't delivering over twice what the speaker is rated at, I'm not happy, but I'm weird like that. It's hard to put what I'm thinking into words really....I'm probably coming off sounding like an idiot, you can blame that on the Shiner, but I promise there's some kind of logic at the root of what I'm saying....


Maybe I'm the idiot who thinks he understands what you're saying. But I agree, there are a lot of retards out htere hwo say "YEAH! My speakers go that bump bump" and all I say is, no dude your speakers are gettign shredded. Simply because they don't have an ear for sound quality. 
I'm debating on taking the RF's back and getting the Alpines. But if they suck I'll just take them out. 
*Zorak Out*


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

sr20dem0n said:


> I'm a huge fan of headroom, if my amp isn't delivering over twice what the speaker is rated at, I'm not happy, but I'm weird like that. It's hard to put what I'm thinking into words really....I'm probably coming off sounding like an idiot, you can blame that on the Shiner, but I promise there's some kind of logic at the root of what I'm saying....


Having headroom is a good thing. In pro audio, a setup is ideally given 6db of headroom, just to keep noise and rated distrotion way down. But to increase 6db is multiplying the power by four (2000 watts to do a 500 watt job), which starts to get expensive. Even a 3 db increase is a doubling of the power, too rich for my blood, but a great thing if you have the means.


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

I agree headroom is a good thing. You just adjust your gain properly and youre good to go. I see this all the time on ca forums all the time. Someone confuses the newbs by saying underpowering will blow a speaker before overpowering will. We know thats only the case in a clipped signal


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## infazorak (Jun 18, 2005)

scrappy said:


> Someone confuses the newbs by saying underpowering will blow a speaker before overpowering will. We know thats only the case in a clipped signal


Well it sure had me crossing my eyes and chasing my tail for a minute!
**Car Audio :newbie: here **
*Zorak Out*


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

scrappy said:


> Someone confuses the newbs by saying underpowering will blow a speaker before overpowering will. We know thats only the case in a clipped signal


This is why I said that: With a large amp, you are likely to hurt your ears before you clip. With a small amp, you are likely to clip long before you get some decent rumble. Therefore, a large amp = healthy speakers, while small amp = blown speakers for 9 out of 10 people. The others already know what clipping is, why it damages your gear, and what it sounds like (since no car audio amp wants to incorporate a cheap clipping indicator...). We also do the research and constantly try to explain it to people who get lost in the all the engineering babble and say, "so what amp should I push my sub with, I only have $50". After awhile I just give short direct answers, because most people just want that. If they wanted more, they would be studying up on it.


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

captain_shrapnel said:


> This is why I said that: With a large amp, you are likely to hurt your ears before you clip. With a small amp, you are likely to clip long before you get some decent rumble. Therefore, a large amp = healthy speakers, while small amp = blown speakers for 9 out of 10 people. The others already know what clipping is, why it damages your gear, and what it sounds like (since no car audio amp wants to incorporate a cheap clipping indicator...). We also do the research and constantly try to explain it to people who get lost in the all the engineering babble and say, "so what amp should I push my sub with, I only have $50". After awhile I just give short direct answers, because most people just want that. If they wanted more, they would be studying up on it.


I get what you mean. Sometimes people need to learn the hard way though.


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