# Strange no one could help me with my nissan 200sx



## Guest (Dec 7, 2002)

What a shame, no one on the net seems to know about a Nissan 200sx Jap motor  i decided too test the Idle Air Control Valve- Fast Idle control device Solenoid, all in one little unit that screws into the throttle body.

The problem was with the current/ohms/voltage or resistance, whatever you like to call it. was not being received from the the plug that attaches too the Soleniod. So I tried my own method, plugged 2 covered spade clips in with the cable attached, then I started the engine and plugged the negative wire to the battery, as soon as I plugged the positive wire on too the battery I heard the metal shuttle get sucked down the soleniod and the revs went way up which is proof that the valve is working  As there is a broken wire somewhere, my m8 is going too wire the ground wire too the engine and wire the positive wire nice and neatly into the ignition section, so when you turn the ignition on 12DC goes too that valve like all the others. The metal shuttle stays active as it corrects the idle immediately as in if you suddenly stop the revs go back upto normal. When the ignition is switched of the power too the valve is cut 

I need too know if that solenoid contains a spring or not otherwise it will stay in the cold start position all the time!


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*I don;t fins it strange!*

MOST of us don't have particular experience with the JDM motor, not that this is strange as we live in the US. The JDM SR20 is much more well known than other JDM motors. Seeign that your car is a 1.8 and it is not offered in the states many of us are not experienced enough to lend a hand. Hope your above post was a solution to your problem.


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## LittlebittaContact (Oct 12, 2002)

Sorry blade, I For one, have never been to Japan long enough to learn about the IAC Valves on the Nissan 200SX


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## Guest (Dec 8, 2002)

*Re: I don;t fins it strange!*



wes said:


> *MOST of us don't have particular experience with the JDM motor, not that this is strange as we live in the US. The JDM SR20 is much more well known than other JDM motors. Seeign that your car is a 1.8 and it is not offered in the states many of us are not experienced enough to lend a hand. Hope your above post was a solution to your problem. *


It has solved the problem, but before I let my mate do the job, I need too know wether this unit is controlled by the ECU and if so will it cause me problems, (AICV-FICD Solenoid Valve). My engine is used in the Sentra, USA version of my car, hence this was my only way of tracking down the parts. Everytime I did a search on the net my car kept popping up in the USA! None in the UK and as so little were produced in the UK there is no Haynes manual for it.

My mate a mechanic wasn't sure what that part was, it was me who wired it up and tested, then went too Nissan and they told me that is what the part is called, and that power is required while the car is running too control the revs, stopping them from falling below a preset level, and too instantly recover should I need to stop very quick. 

I have turned from a PC Professional too an electronics tester! How I knew that soleniod was the problem I cannot say, all I know I did a dc test and the 2 wires are dead(earth and live)


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## P11GT (Aug 3, 2002)

Blade Runner said:


> *I need too know if that solenoid contains a spring or not otherwise it will stay in the cold start position all the time! *


It does have a small spring on the shaft coming from the soleniod itself, what it does, im not sure. Ive actually had mine removed while fitting a new fuel rail, so ive seen inside the back of it. Just unbolt it if youre not sure, 3x 10mm bolts, 2 plugs and a hose.


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## Guest (Dec 8, 2002)

*Re: Re: Strange no one could help me with my nissan 200sx*



P11GT said:


> *It does have a small spring on the shaft coming from the soleniod itself, what it does, im not sure. Ive actually had mine removed while fitting a new fuel rail, so ive seen inside the back of it. Just unbolt it if youre not sure, 3x 10mm bolts, 2 plugs and a hose. *


There are 3 valves on my Throttle body, IACV Air Regulator, operates with a bimetal strip heater, closes the rotary slider when warm, and on a cold start it is wide open to let the air through this is mounted on the frontside of the manifold. That was replaced with a brand new one. Went too a scrappy for a replacement IACV-AAC Valve(£10, compared too £200 from Nissan) worked a treat. My mate took the 3rd valve off being the IACV-FICD Soleniod Valve, has a light blue plastic connector. There was a spring in there, but my mate lost it  now like I said when I applied power too the solenoid it pulled the metal shuttle down towards the where the plastic plug is you can hear it click, the revs go up immediately. What the spring was for I dont know, I can only guess it bobs up and down too keep the revs from going too high and too low. cus I did notice without the spring it was reving up too almost 1500rpm and drinking the juice, then in 2nd gear it was driving itself  So I gotta find the right spring too do the job. I need too know if this will have any affect on the ECU(its not giving it any power anyway,must be a broken wire) Get back too me on this as its urgent cus if the ECU did control this would it cut the power once the engine was warm? But like Nissan said its bobs backwards and forwards too control the revs! Just gota pop 2 dvd's I hired back. Give me a reply ok as its important as otherwise I am either gonna let my m8 do his wiring job or send the car too an Electrical Engineer who will be able too trace the wire, as if it is broken or come loose he can fix it for me, I would rather this than the bypass. If the ECU doens't control this then a bypass is good enough for me 

I will check when I get back for your answer, 

Cheers Bro


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## P11GT (Aug 3, 2002)

hmmmm, the only thing i can suggest is for you to track down a SR20 P11 Primera at a scrap yards, they should be easier to find, and go take the soleniod spring out of that. Chances are, they will be more or less the same rated. Its better than like you say, paying the dealera £200 for a new one. If youre sneaky enough, you may be able to remove the spring, stick the solenoid back in and stick the spring in ya pocket! not that im encouraging you or nowt.

Heres a pic of the P11 Primera GT SR20DE valve, check to see if its the same as yours, it should be.


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## Guest (Dec 10, 2002)

I guess that is the USA version or UK? all the same it looks identical almost. If you are from the USA, any chance you could track that spring down for me and send via the post!

Your solenoid valve which has the blue plastic connector at then end is identical too mine, a 20mm spanner is required to undo that baby. Also the round cyclinder shaped valve(mine had died so a trip too the scappy and the removal from a Nissan BlueBird as my m8 knew this car had the same one, cost me £10 instead of £200 bloody lucky too have a m8 like that  ) next to it, is exactly the same as mine as well  The only difference being is the location of the parts. Man your manual idle screw is in the same place as mine, its appears too be the one in the same  (it is sticking out half way like mine is on the end which points in towards the car, am I right cus it sure as hell looks the same) Thanks for your kind help with the diagrams 

My mate is so clever, his knowledge is fantastic. My Auxillary valve that has the bimentalic strip in it, was shot, and he knew a 1990 Ford EFI and GOLF Gti used the same one, the difference being one is round where my old one was square and the bolt holes were in the right place and it just went on with no bother(cost £46 uk) instead of Nissan £200.

I will go and hunt that part down in the morning, for there is a massive scrappy yard 40ish miles away and I will go and get this spring  hopefully. My mate is going too trace that dead wire through the loom as the ECU controls that solenoid valve(Fast Idle when cold etc.) won't take him long, both of us prefer that method rather than bypassing and running of the ignition, he will then rewire the dead wire once he has found where the wire comes from. The ECU may control it but it doesnt send 12 volts DC too it right. It just sends signals too tell it when too operate.


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## P11GT (Aug 3, 2002)

im in actual fact from the UK (see name and sig top left of post), as i know you are from the way you post, which is why i said try looking at the local scrappies, there sh*t loadsa of primeras out there, so you should be able to find one no probs, good luck anyways.

Heres what the nissan tech manual says about the "Idle speed control valve" "IACV-AAC valve" if thats what its called. When engine running at idle, voltage should regulate between 8v-14v, when engine running with either steering turned/engine speed at 2,000rpm/rear defogger on/or lighting on, the voltage should be between 2v-8v. This is for ECU Pin No 113 color code SB.


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## Guest (Dec 10, 2002)

P11GT said:


> *im in actual fact from the UK (see name and sig top left of post), as i know you are from the way you post, which is why i said try looking at the local scrappies, there sh*t loadsa of primeras out there, so you should be able to find one no probs, good luck anyways.
> 
> Heres what the nissan tech manual says about the "Idle speed control valve" "IACV-AAC valve" if thats what its called. When engine running at idle, voltage should regulate between 8v-14v, when engine running with either steering turned/engine speed at 2,000rpm/rear defogger on/or lighting on, the voltage should be between 2v-8v. This is for ECU Pin No 113 color code SB. *



My "IACV-AAC valve" is brand new and works fine, the prob lies with the IACV-FICD Soleniod Valve(Idle Air Control Valve-Fast Idle Control Device)

Where did yah get that manual me and m8 can't get one in N.Wales where I live. We are getting no power from the long slim solenioed which sticks out towards the engine. It has a light blue plug and the body of the solenieod takes a 20mm spanner to undo it(solenioed is hex shaped). IT contains a bullet shaped metal plunger with a thin stem and a little round end, this is where the spring goes. I have been everywhere today and N.Wales is a real shite place too get parts. If I power straight from the battery you can hear it click, its right next to where that round shiny valve sits(that works). so if you can send some info on that part it would help me m8 out as he can trace the fault as it is getting no power whatsoever, and it takes the mick having too work in the icey wind, I said if its too cold, don't bother but he said he wants too get it working. Now m8 if you understand which part it is could you scan the info in for it voltage ecu pins etc. and if you could get me the proper spring I would appreciate that as where you live it must have lots of scrappys. I will pm you my details and will pay whatever it cost for the spring or take the whole thing off. I will scan u a picture of the soleniod and e-mail it too you so you are aware what I am talking about ok.

Thanks mate


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## Guest (Dec 14, 2002)

I might have too sell me motor, some idiot tried too have a head on collision in an attempt too kill me. I was doing 30mph in a 60mph area, a woman in front was causing the queue so I looked ahead and there was some traffic over a mile away, as soon as I won't too overtake this woman she speeded up FFS, this caused the cars in the other lane to approach too rapidly, so I dropped too 2nd gear and hit 60mph and straight into 3rd hit 90mph and this stupid lad approacing me, was accellerating and was on a sucide mission I thought WTF and floored me motor and pulled in within 2 feet of him hitting me head on. If I had never had my Turbo boosted and other mods he would have hit me head on, that was his intention.


This is my 3rd warning, a car was racing me and it had been raining I made a very stupid mistake and accellerated into the bend on the roundabout, and I felt the backend start to go, foot off the gas, didn't dare touch the ABS and just used the steering wheel to get the car straight, I never crossed lanes. I have too say the bloke who was racing me slowed right down in front because I think he was more worried that I might have been killed. He waited until I got control and off he went and so did I, got past him @ 120mph on a straight too prove a point and then pulled over and took it easy. Let that be a WARNING too all wanna be supercar rear wheel drive racers, they are totally different from front wheel drive, and need due care especially in the wet. I have never accellerated into a bend before, only out, this car is way too powerful and needs an experienced driver, and I am not talking a 18year old either. It needs someone who knows this model of car(its a very long Coupe) and with the tweaks I have had done to give it 200bhp + they will know how too handle her. 

So selling me motor now, very few were made in the UK, it is the cleanest Nissan 200SX around and it is K plate, PAS, EW CL, 1.8ltr 16v Twin cam Fuel Injected Turbo with a booster fitted, a K&N FilterCharger, and a Baily Dump Valve, plus 4 brand new Pirrelli 205 tyres, wider than the older 195's, and has brand new mega bright Haligens which are hidden away under popup lights. 

Full Service History, Log book, all the major services carried out by nissan, previous 5 MOT's plus mine which is valid till July 2003 and its Taxed till May 2003. Something alot of owners don't have!

Fitted with a Vectra Cat 1 immobilser, have the Vectra Engineers documents as well. Basically I have everything.

Top Speed 150mph

Rear Wheel drive as well, but has a seperate onboard ABS computer, unlike the BMW's which have only front ABS brakes, I have front and rear Thats the Japs for yah

I have been told its worth @ a least 3k for the condition of the entire car. I need the money as I plan on going back to the states to stay with my friends again in North Carolina, but for 2 months this time, possibly 3. Need a break from the depressing UK!

Send me an E-mail too [email protected] if interested and we will sort something out.


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## P11GT (Aug 3, 2002)

dont forget to stick it in the www.autotrader.co.uk ive just went out and bought me another Primera, a P10 eGT for a winter run about.


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