# Trouble Starting



## zakgord (Jun 11, 2007)

Ive been having trouble starting my 97 automatic altima recently. A day or so before it had this trouble I noticed when i turned the key back to turn off the car when i was parked, but still had it in the position for electrical power, my dash lights, radio and dome light wouldnt work. I also noticed my power locks wouldnt work. Well it started fine another time or 2 after this but the next morning i went out to start it and nothing. No click, lights or anything. 

So I got it jumped, and drove it to autozone thinking it was a bad battery. THey tested that and the alternator said it was fine, holding 12.something volts. 

That was a few days ago, and since then it has been continuing this problem. Not always however do i need to jump it to start. THere have been a few times when it started ( i believe while the car was still warm) fine.

I notice that after i jump it and listen, it seems to run rougher these last few days, and strains more when i turn the A/C. Could it be running the A/C so much during this heat drains the power, or there is something wrong that wont let the alternator charge it with the a/c running?

Ive checked a few fuses and they seemed fine. Also, recently the last 2 or 3 times i tried to start it i do get dash lights, power locks and dome light to come on when i insert the key. However when i turn it further to start all the lights go out and i get no start, click, or anything.

PS my car has recently had its check engine light correctly diagnosed (0302 and knock sensor codes thrown, rough idle) after many attempts to figure out the problem, a burnt valve....will need a valve job. Mechanic said $1000 roughly and a week or more of shop time. Does that sound reasonable?...i know its an involved job.


----------



## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

zakgord said:


> Ive been having trouble starting my 97 automatic altima recently. A day or so before it had this trouble I noticed when i turned the key back to turn off the car when i was parked, but still had it in the position for electrical power, my dash lights, radio and dome light wouldnt work. I also noticed my power locks wouldnt work. Well it started fine another time or 2 after this but the next morning i went out to start it and nothing. No click, lights or anything.
> 
> So I got it jumped, and drove it to autozone thinking it was a bad battery. THey tested that and the alternator said it was fine, holding 12.something volts.
> 
> ...


As for the issue with key position in acc. and no power for windows that may be a worn ignition switch. However the power door locks should work with the key in any position so I am a little confused on that part, I will need to look at the electrical diagram on that.

As for the engine hard starting, rough idle, A/C bogging down, and CEL codes that can all be related to the burned valves. Personaly I would wait for the valve job to be completed before looking into those problems. The quot of $1,000 for a valve job sounds fine.


----------



## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

OK I checked the schematic and you do have some relation of the power door locks and the ignition. I should have figured that but just wanted to be sure. So again I would look at replacing the ignition switch but better to test it first to be sure. Do you have a multi-meter and a basic knowledge of circuitry? If so I can help, otherwise best to have it checked by a technician with electrical experience. I would tend to think it is bad but would't replace it without verifying first. Plus the actual replacement is a bit challenging for the novice. You have to remove 2 bolts that have broken off heads. This is intensional for detering theft.


----------



## zakgord (Jun 11, 2007)

I believe I might have the problem narrowed in a way, but not sure how to diagnose it I suppose. I've noticed through testing the last day or two that if I dont run the A/C while running the car, the car starts up fine after sitting (either for a few hours or overnight). Other times when I have tried to start the car after running the A/C previously thats when the car would not start. 

I cant confirm this 100%, but so far the last 2 days my hypothesis has proven true. If it is, how would running the A/C affect the startup? Alternator not allowing proper power to charge the battery because too much used running the A/C? I dont quite see a link, although i am not a mechanic of course. Maybe all i need to do i just run without A/C....in August hmm....

Also, I have power to all my lights and dash now with the key in. I no longer see the problem of no lights or power locks not working. That only seemed to be a problem the first day or 2. This electrical has been relatively hit and miss, but I think I've found some consistenty between the A/C running and no start-up....but what could the link be?


----------



## zakgord (Jun 11, 2007)

Also concerning the valve job, I will have to wait until December for that because of school starting now and my needing a car during these times. Im not hurting anything by running it with a burnt valve or low compression in one cylinder am I? Or is it just less efficiency and performance for now? I wonder when I have my mechanic do the job, if he'll send it away for the same type of job or a multi (3 or 5) angle job...would they do all the valves? seems like they would with the head being off....i suppose i should just ask him.


----------



## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

Well it's possible you could have a voltage draw comeing from the A/C system somehow when the car is turned off. Again you will need a meter or a test light to check for this. If you have a voltage draw then it's a matter of testing components in the A/C system, I would start with switches and relays in that case. You said the altenator tested fine so it should't be a problem with charging the battery while running A/C. The altenator increases it's output as electrical load increases. However I have witnessed many times these Autozone type places improperly testing things so you might try that again. I had mine improperly tested once. After the testing of both battery and altenator he told me I needed an altenatore. He was on the defensive when I corrected his diagnosis, but he let me do it myself. After which I replaced my starter. I had a weak starter that was pulling too much current. Still using the same battery and altenator after 2 years.


----------

