# Nissan 240SX KA24DE(T) turbocharging



## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Hey guys I have been on this forum for awhile and everyday I was thinking of KA24DE turbocharged or SR20DET. If your like me and live in California it would be pretty hard to daily drive an SR20DET powered 240SX and you have a need for speed then turbocharging a KA24DE is your answer. I do not know much about cars and how I will do it but with the help of many I will get there. I have done a lot of research and I hope this thread will help many get there 240SX turbocharged. So far this is what I have research:

Nissan 240SX KA24DET Outline

Things for turbo
Turbo Manifold 
Blow Off Valve (BOV)
External Wastegaste 
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC larger than 12"x24"x3)
Turbo 
Downpipe 3”
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body 
Replace the Exhaust
Boost gauge
Boost Controller
[intercoolers, blow-off valves, fuel management and boost controllers (good to raise overall boost]

Fuel Control:
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
550cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2 
Greddy Emanage 
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning

Mounts
Nismo 3 Piece Engine and Transmission Mounts S13 S14 S15

Block Internals:
Forged Rods 
Forged Pistons 
Stock Crank 
Bearings
Headgasket
Valves
Retainers
Cams
Injector Resistors
Plus your typical rebuild items


Now this is the beginning I will and so will many fill in the list above to create your very own turbo-ed 240SX according to your budget and goal.

Hope you guys put many do it yourself guides on this thread.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

if you're in cali, you'd fail both visual, and smog with a ka-t, or sr. these "guides" are everywhere, no need to start another one.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

2high2aim said:


> If your like me and live in California it would be pretty hard to daily drive an SR20DET powered 240SX and you have a need for speed then turbocharging a KA24DE is your answer.


How can you make a statement like that!!

There's nothing difficult about driving an SR20DET powered 240SX; an OEM setup SR20DET in a 240SX is very reliable. If you're looking for more power and speed, both the SR and the KA-T can give it to you; with less reliability.

Both the SR and the KA-T will not pass California emissions testing.

Like DUSTIN said, the KA-T guides are everywhere and especially here:
http://www.nissanforums.com/general-240sx-silvia-s12-200sx-discussion/92630-ka-turbo-thread.html


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

I understand that but it is easier to stick with the KA-T then an SR because it came with the car. I do like the SR20DET but you have to do an engine swap whereas with the KA24DE(T) it would be easier since you can do it yourself.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Also the Greddy KA24DET kit is out which passes


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Sorry since 2003 the Greddy kit is not street legal so therefor a KA-T would also be illegal my bad I was misinformed. Hey do you guys know how loud a three inch turbocharged cat back exhaust would sound because I wanted to get one when I do a turbo set up or is it to loud on the street and cause suspicion.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

rogoman said:


> How can you make a statement like that!!
> 
> There's nothing difficult about driving an SR20DET powered 240SX; an OEM setup SR20DET in a 240SX is very reliable. If you're looking for more power and speed, both the SR and the KA-T can give it to you; with less reliability.
> 
> ...



I was just wondering have you ever been pulled over by an officer for the SR? What happened? You think they would ever know? Also wouldn't your car be impounded if it had an illegal motor?


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

2high2aim said:


> I was just wondering have you ever been pulled over by an officer for the SR? What happened? You think they would ever know? Also wouldn't your car be impounded if it had an illegal motor?


I don't live in california, but from what I've read, if you've got obvious modifications, such as loud exhaust, larger muffler, they can do a quick underhood visual inspection. Most people fail to realize that these officers are somewhat knowledgeable, and can spot modifications just as well as I can. Your car can be impounded after you're given a ticket, and take it to a Ref. If you drive it around after failing at the Ref station, and are pulled over, you've just lost your rights. There are a lot of people in California that get away with swaps by throwing money around. They are no better than the common drug dealer in the way they're getting around the law, even though their crime is not as serious. (debateable)

You're still young, save your money, go to school, and become rich to the point that you can buy the hottest and newest ferarri in 2015.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

LOL even if I had the money to buy the hottest and newest ferarri in 2015 I wouldn't because I am to scared of crashing it or if a part malfunctions I wouldn't have the money to back it up.

Anyways I really love the Sivilia S15 and that is why I want a 240SX, I also like drifting so it is the perfect car for me the downside is the stock for is to slow for me.s That is why I wanted to get KA-T or SR. I though the KA-T was legal  :wtf: and I was happy but dam. So I do not know what to do now. If I do one of the set ups I can buy this cool exhaust have you ever herd of the company before just wondering if it is a good company.


Tanabe Concept G Cat Back Exhaust System Nissan 240SX


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

Tanabe is fantastic high quality stuff. The medallion series is very nice. You should love it.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Your saying KA24DET is not legal, and SR20DET is not legal, what option do I have to get more power on the 240SX?


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

hey if both of them are illegal then I have to break the law to get more power??? Also do you know where those KA-T people get there T3 exhaust manifold from? Just wondering.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Hey does anyone know what is the highest PSI the Garrett GT25/40R and the Garrett GT2871R can run on and how much horses will I be getting from the KA24DE. Also what do you guys recommend me doing before I turbocharger my engine. Port and Polish? Bore .020? New Gaskets? ????? What is the main difference between them, spool time?, HP level?,ect


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

HowStuffWorks - Learn how Everything Works!

KA-T.org


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

LOL been on both sites but do you know any of the answers to my questions? Also I heard it is CHEAPER in the LONG RUN make a SR20DET to handle 450rwhp then the KA is that true the shop that I was asking for the KA they said SR is cheaper in the long run. Idk do you?


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

Maybe, there's a lot of speculation about that. I'd do more searching and reading before asking these questions. I know for a fact this has been discussed atleast 100 times on here. In the end, most people don't swap motors because it'll handle the power, they can build theirs up to do it too. It's all about what they're after. The KA's make a lot more torque than the N/A SRs. That will carry over into the turbo motors.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

2high2aim said:


> Also what do you guys recommend me doing before I turbocharger my engine. Port and Polish? Bore .020? New Gaskets? ?????


Here's a bit of "Turbo 101":
Things to consider in a rebuild of the motor are lower compression forged pistons, like 8.50:1 CR; magneflux crank/rod assembly; shot-peen crank/rod assembly; ARP rod bolts; steel or copper alloy head gasket with O-ringing; Studs for the head instead of bolts. These suggestions are just starters. A full motor 'blue-print' is recommended.

Custom balance the entire reciprocating assembly. With the turbo you need to run forged pistons: however look into using the new silicon hypereutectic pistons which are around 30% stronger then standard cast. They are a T6 heat treated aluminum piston which allow you to run a small piston-to-wall clearance. TRW also has a special aluminum alloy
forged piston that requires less piston-to-wall clearance. This gives you less piston rattle and improved ring longevity. JWT uses Arias pistons, which is high silicon content so tighter tolerance can be used; no piston slap.

For turbo charging, stay with the OEM cam or go with a mild after-market cam. Stay away from big duration cams. You really don't need ARP head bolts unless your OEM bolts are not in good condition then you may as well go with the ARP bolts. Better yet go with studs instead of bolts.

Forget about port and polish and boring out. Higher boost pressures will give you much much more HP then boring .020. With turbo charging you want to have the thickest cylinder walls possible. If the cylinders are bored a lot, you'll have a "ballooning" effect under boost. This will cause a lot of blowby.


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

so, how many times have you had to copy and paste that? :fluffy:


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Well Dustin, too many times. Do you think I should make a Sticky?


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## Dustin (Dec 14, 2003)

you may have to.. it seems you've made that reply atleast a dozen times recently.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Rogoman Thanks for you post, I appreciate it that you reposted it on this.

What is a...
1) motor 'blue-print' What do they do to it?
2) magneflux crank/rod assembly
3) shot-peen crank/rod assembly

Also thank you guys for helping a me, an interested kid, learn more about refortifying the KA24DE and how to obtain more power.

Also what do you guys think about the JGS Turbo Kit JGS Precision Turbo
I am going to buy the KA24DE (Turbo Install) DVD to learn more.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

1 - Blue-printing is basically using the FSM engine "service data and specifications" section for taking measurements of your motor and correcting the areas which are out of spec.
Here's an example: 
cylinder block height: The block deck to crankshaft center line spec should be the same from the front to back of block. If it's beyond spec, the block may be warped or someone milled the deck improperly.
2 - Magnefluxing is using a magnetized metallic solution on iron or steel parts under a black light to look for cracks.
3 - Shotpeening is a machine process that uses very fine metal shot that's blasted against a part to be treated. This microforges the surface of the part making it stronger and harder while leaving the interior soft and ductile. This step can improve the fatigue strength of a part by over 100%.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

So basically Blue printing is like rebuilding the engine so they are back to factory spec or better almost like buying a new engine. Do you know what the average cost is to blue print an engine. Also is Shot peening included when they blue print or is that a separate method to bring life back to you engine. What about Magnefluxing is that included in blue printing, also what is the point of this if your cylinder is shotpeened. Also thank you Rogoman you are one of the most helpful person on the forum, thank you very much.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If you have an FSM, you can do blue printing yourself. You'll need some precision tools, like micrometers, straight edges, bore gauges, etc. Blue printing can be time consuming, so labor charges can mount up.

Shotpeening is not part of blue printing; it's a separate procedure. Cylinder walls are never shotpeened. The crank/rods are the only items that are shotpeened.

Magnefluxing is a separate procedure that should be the first thing done in engine prep. For example, if magnefluxing rods, you find a crack in a rod; that rod gets replaced.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Hey sorry about this but man I always talk to my friend about the 240SX and he always puts the KA24DE down because it has to be rebuilt to make some serious horsepower also that it has high mileage and it does not have as many after market support as the SR, he also said that the SR is more Rev friendly oh yea he said that the SR has forged internals and was meant to be a turbo-ed engine from the factory so know I am confused. Now I have be thinking of KA24DE because I thought the KA-T is legal. Now this puts things in a completely different perspective. What should I do it is cheaper for me to get a S14 SR20DET then putting the basic KA24DET upgrade. Then I would also have money left to do some upgrades. What would you suggest because I can get the S14 SR20DET swapped into mine for $3k, short shifter, exhaust, clutch, rims, brakes would be another $2000 putting me up to about $5000 whereas in the KA24DET i would pay about $2000 build up, $3500 JGS T3/T4 turbo set and other parts including an FMIC; clutch, short shifter, new 3in exhaust, rims another $2000 this equals $7500. So what do you guys suggest??? Sorry if this does not match the tread but it would be helpful to inform me. Also I have read many SR v. KA so please dont tell me to search because I already have. Thank you very much.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The cost between a KA-T and an SR is going to be similar. Either setup can give you the HP you're looking for. It's all a matter of preference; if you like strong torque at lower speeds, it's the KA-T; if you like a high reving motor, it's the SR.

Both motors use forged rods and forged crankshaft. However the SR rods/crankshaft are shotpeened at the factory, whereas the KA components are not; but that's no problem because you can have the KA parts shotpeened. By using ARP fasteners on the KA, you'll end up with a bullet proof bottom end.

If you're looking for high HP, either motor needs to built properly.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Thanks man and also in the other thread right now i am checking that site you gave me thanks a lot. Do you know which is easier to work with and which one is cheaper to get to 400rwhp??


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

Hey Does anyone know where I can find a front bumper support for a 96 240SX because my friend crashed his 240 also does anyone bend their bumper support back in shape or hammer it???


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

2high2aim said:


> Hey Does anyone know where I can find a front bumper support for a 96 240SX because my friend crashed his 240 also does anyone bend their bumper support back in shape or hammer it???


i remember long ago when i hit my first 240sx. i used a truck jack and got like 2 2x4's and use those long peices of wood to support the jack against the core support. and the other end of the boards were on the firewall. in 2 different locations. i got it pulled out or should i say pushed out. then i sold the car in the next week. ghetto as shit. but thats the only way i did it without that crazy body shop puller thing.


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## 2high2aim (Jul 8, 2007)

So do you know what I can do to fix it


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

2high2aim said:


> So do you know what I can do to fix it


if you wanna get it done right, ill take it to the body men. when it comes to bodywork im not to good with it. more like a hate body work


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