# boosted 1.6L



## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

*Another Boosted GA16DE*

i just got my car running with the following

Turbo: t25bb
Manifold: hand made log style
Downpipe: hand made 2" to 2.5"
Intercooler: extruded tube with hand made endtanks
Piping: hand made 2"
Injectors: 370cc's
Fuel pump: 300zxTT
Management: JWT ECU

its only running on 5psi right now, i'll crank up the boost when i install my clutch and wideband 02. here are some pics


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Looks great!!!, When are you going to Dyno it? How much roughly you spend for your set-up?


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## rios (Jun 10, 2002)

did u do all the work yourself? what years your car? was it easy to install and make if u did it yourslef?


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

That is fuckin beautiful!!!


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

Great Job!


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## sage3 (May 12, 2002)

Nice man, nice!! Hey, did you ever get that part number for the injectors?


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## Nostrodomas (Jun 15, 2002)

Amazing job. So fresh its so clean clean.......lol


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

thanks...ya,i did all the fab work myself. i estimate it cost about 3k for the setup. the car is 97. i never got the part # for the injectors, but louis from 2R20 performance knows what they are and sometimes has them in stock. you can get ahold of him at

Louis Anaya
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R Turbo
12.0 @ 118.77 mph
349.6 hp & 301.9 ft/lb 
http://www.turbochargedser.freeservers.com/turbochargedser.html 

SR20 Performance
http://www.sr20performance.com 
480-966-SR20
480-966-0100 Fax

im going to dyno it when i install the clutch. its really fun to drive now with all the additional torque and power. i broke the tires loose in 1st gear last night. the tiny ball bearing turbo spools so quick..its sick


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## chef (Apr 30, 2002)

Very nice job!! Congrats on your turbo setup!


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

thanks guys


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## shane (Jul 10, 2002)

Very nice! Can't wait to see the numbers!


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## Guest (Sep 15, 2002)

Nice car, even nicer turbo... but after driving a GA16 for 6 years, I'm not a big fan of that motor. Has almost no sweet spot and has no power. And with that turbo, what are you expecting? 180 to the front? MAYBE 190 w/ out gernading the motor (unless the bottom end is built)? I have a 93 SE-R and a 96 200SX SE (GTi-R going in now) and I've always believed that money is better spent on a SR20 that can handle the power rather than the economy motor of the bunch. And w/ that much money, a SR20 can easily put 300 or so to the ground w/ no problems! 

Not knocking your car (its beautiful), just commenting on the GA16DE... thats all ! 

Ben


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

true, but the 1.6 is really cheap to replace and easy to find compared to the 2.0. and once people start making power with their 1.6's then maybe manufacturers will produce some bottom end parts. then we can just up the hp level. i know the turbo can handle it, it has a 60 trim t3 comp wheel that flows 31lbs/min which is good for ~300hp.


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## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

very nice craftsmanship! good work in showing the GA off


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*Nice job*

Looks very good. Layout is very nice, intake plumbing, cool air setup, BOV recirc all looks good. Looks like someone had to reposition the BOV and the nice clamps should be on the charge pipes not the MAF. Regardless, hats off man! 

Can't wait to see some #'s and hear your input. My car is well on it's way. Just waiting on the plumbing myself  Rest of the bits are collecting dust. By the time it's boosted it will be time for me to put it away for the winter


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

ya, i know...the tbolts are just for looks right now i couldnt find any at the shop the right size for my charge piping. also, that other flange opposite the blowoff valve was to test one of our blowoff valves that we designed and machined...they look like this one








as you can it doesnt recirculate....so i didnt have it on very long. it has a real nice sound, and its really light weight


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

JavierB14, Since you custom made the parts, you think it will be available to everyone in the near future? I notice you have Max-Rev website in your sig, isn't that your shop/store? Like to have a similar set-up with my car.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

ya, i work at Max-Rev as a fabricator/engineer/sales...etc. we are considering manufacturing a kit for our application, just doing some prototype testing right now.


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## dundee (May 11, 2002)

Nice job! I notice you used a breather filter on the rightside of the vavlecover but not one at the back which connects into your intake manifold. I did the same thing when I made my CAI. You're letting unmetered air into your intake manifold. Put another breather filter back and plug the hole in the manifold. Thought I'd point it out! Anyway I love the way you set up the piping. damn I need some money! I want some boost.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

yes im using a filter on the CCAI crankcase air intake and decided to leave the PCV valve alone. i have basically turned the PCV valve into an "open" system instead of a "closed" system like OEM.

The PCV uses vacuum as a signal source, opening and closing. an engine only sees vacuum at idle or low engine speeds. this is when the valve is flowing or allowing the vapors in the crankcase back into the intake manifold. whenever there is positive pressure(boost, backfire, etc) in the intake manifold, the pcv valve closes, preventing flow of the vapors. 

when the PCV is closed, there is only one other way out. through the CCAI. mine is open....venting the vapors to atmosphere. a closed system would flow the vapors back to the intake stream from the air filter. i dont want carbon coated piping or compressor 

and yes, my filter may allow some unmetered air in but when my engine sees vacuum its either at idle or at some cruising speed. ur not making power at these instances, meaning its not harming the engine. as soon as the engine/turbo is "loaded", it starts spooling or making positive pressure.

its worked for me..i should have my wideband installed this weekend i will have some real data then.


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## blueboost (Jul 25, 2002)

Javier, if your engine was a porn, my shit would be purple and falling off. LOL! You da MAN!!!!!


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Question Javier, where is the oil lines for the turbo located? Is it near the top of the oilpan? I am not a turbo literate, but I would like to learn more stuff about it and probably make my own set-up in the future. Thanks Bro!!!


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

ya i'll take some pics....


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## Adam (Apr 30, 2002)

> Nice car, even nicer turbo... but after driving a GA16 for 6 years, I'm not a big fan of that motor. Has almost no sweet spot and has no power. And with that turbo, what are you expecting? 180 to the front? MAYBE 190 w/ out gernading the motor (unless the bottom end is built)? I have a 93 SE-R and a 96 200SX SE (GTi-R going in now) and I've always believed that money is better spent on a SR20 that can handle the power rather than the economy motor of the bunch. And w/ that much money, a SR20 can easily put 300 or so to the ground w/ no problems!


Holy shit really!! I thought the GA was much better for boost, good thing you let us know huh?  I'm sure anyone actually turboing a GA knows all about the disadvantages, but still doesn't care.


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

GTi-R SR20DET said:


> *Nice car, even nicer turbo... but after driving a GA16 for 6 years, I'm not a big fan of that motor. Has almost no sweet spot and has no power. And with that turbo, what are you expecting? 180 to the front? MAYBE 190 w/ out gernading the motor (unless the bottom end is built)? I have a 93 SE-R and a 96 200SX SE (GTi-R going in now) and I've always believed that money is better spent on a SR20 that can handle the power rather than the economy motor of the bunch. And w/ that much money, a SR20 can easily put 300 or so to the ground w/ no problems!
> 
> Not knocking your car (its beautiful), just commenting on the GA16DE... thats all !
> 
> Ben *



_We also noted that the GA16DE seems to be well suited for turbocharging, with it's long stroke, small bore and shallow-angle, turbulent combustion chamber, the GA is very resistant to detonation, the bane of a turbocharged engine. The long stroke also helps spool the turbo quickly. With the exception of brute strength of its internal parts, the GA seems better suited for turboing than the SR20!_ 

Some guy named Kojima wrote that.....


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

javierb14 said:


> *true, but the 1.6 is really cheap to replace and easy to find compared to the 2.0. and once people start making power with their 1.6's then maybe manufacturers will produce some bottom end parts. then we can just up the hp level. i know the turbo can handle it, it has a 60 trim t3 comp wheel that flows 31lbs/min which is good for ~300hp. *


The SR20DE is really cheap to $350 complete. I am also an owner of a 98 200SX SE, don't get me wrong I love the car and the GA16DE is a decent motor but it ain't nothing compared to the SR20DE. So what if it slightly more money you don't have to worry about building a bottom end and improving the head flow of a SR20. Anyways I think your car is nice, good job and congradulations on the turboing of a GA16DE.


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## Blu200SX (Jul 22, 2002)

how much does a full decent setup cost...with ecu..heres my thing..somehow im gonna raise 5000 to turbo charge my ride...is this a good amount of money for a simple turbo to acheive 200hp?


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

> The SR20DE is really cheap to $350 complete. I am also an owner of a 98 200SX SE, don't get me wrong I love the car and the GA16DE is a decent motor but it ain't nothing compared to the SR20DE. So what if it slightly more money you don't have to worry about building a bottom end and improving the head flow of a SR20. Anyways I think your car is nice, good job and congradulations on the turboing of a GA16DE.


u have a point, but i also chose to turbo the 1.6 for another reason. it was a challenge trying to find parts for it....so i made my own dont get me wrong if i really like the fact that the sr20 is over engineered from the factory. actually, my brother and i are planning a swap into his s13 real soon. stay tuned.



> how much does a full decent setup cost...


its all relative to who u know and what u can do. since i made everything myself, all i had to pay for was materials. if i had to guess, u could definetly build a DIY low boost kit for about $2k.


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## Adam (Apr 30, 2002)

> We also noted that the GA16DE seems to be well suited for turbocharging, with it's long stroke, small bore and shallow-angle, turbulent combustion chamber, the GA is very resistant to detonation, the bane of a turbocharged engine.


Now this would mean the GA is very resistant to any type of detonation correct? So it's not just a good thing for turbocharging, but also say, high compression?


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## Blu200SX (Jul 22, 2002)

thats also what i am wondering. At high boost will the ga16 take it with strong internals.


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

W10DET2020 said:


> *The SR20DE is really cheap to $350 complete *


I wanna see a $350 Ga16 to Sr20 complete swap....haha


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

I think you guys are missing the point with the Turbo GA.... 

It's about options...

Do you have any idea how many 1.6's are on the road compared to Sr20's? Look it up...You'll be shocked.... 

How many people can seriously do a engine swap and everything that goes along with it???? 

Now how many weekend mechanics can bolt on a manifold and some piping..change the ecu and gain 100 HP? I garuntee the number is 100 times higher than the previous question.

THis is about options... for years everyone with a GA was told the only option was a complete swap...now they have another option... This option is easier than a swap...your car won't be down for a long time and is cheaper... period.

People always seem to throw out the $350 to $400.. ... but fail to mention that the motor is only a small part of the total swap...or they will throw out 300+HP SR20... yeah and to do that how much are you going to spend for your FMAX kit?
After you have spent the money for the first SR20 swap...add those up...


simple fact is the Ga16 turbo is faster than any N/A SE-R with every possible bolt on you can get........( except for one that I know of and we are close..lol) 

This is about options... period... if you don't like the option then that's fine... if you own a SR20...then why would you care either way?


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## TUNED200 (Jul 27, 2002)

i believe there is a many sr20 powered cars running 11's and and 12, just look
http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12386&pagenumber=1

the ga is a good engine, i had a 96 200sx se, but i got rid of it as soon as i found the SE-R. the reason so many people want an sr20 is the history of it being reliable, and the mass aftermarket.


Brian


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## Adam (Apr 30, 2002)

> Do you have any idea how many 1.6's are on the road compared to Sr20's? Look it up...You'll be shocked....


SR20DE powered sentras/200sxs were about 6% of total production each year, which was well over 100,000.


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## myoung (Apr 15, 2002)

Adam said:


> *SR20DE powered sentras/200sxs were about 6% of total production each year, which was well over 100,000. *


okay 6% of the total.... so that's 94% GA16's

I think a 100,000 is kinda high... I know for a fact there was no where near that many 98 SE-R's made... and no 97 SE-R's in CA.

Even so, 

Then it's pretty obvious why companies are selling more GA headers and CAI's than SR20's... to ignore the demand would be a mistake... Believe me every company that we have approached over the last 2 years is happy with the response of the GA parts.


All I am trying to say is that to completely dismiss the Ga is a mistake... 

Some people would say the same for the standard SR20.... why swap that in? Get a VE or a DET... There is always something better...

like I said... it's about giving people options..

Plus isn't it kinda cool to see what this thing will eventually be capable of ?


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## TUNED200 (Jul 27, 2002)

myoung said:


> *okay 6% of the total.... so that's 94% GA16's
> 
> I think a 100,000 is kinda high... I know for a fact there was no where near that many 98 SE-R's made... and no 97 SE-R's in CA.
> 
> ...


i agree 100%. maybe the aftermarket will start looking all b13- b14 powered cars and give up more parts, 

Brian


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## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

> Some people would say the same for the standard SR20.... why swap that in? Get a VE or a DET... There is always something better...


Still others would say "Get a real car with REAL wheel drive".


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## scrappy (Jun 30, 2002)

Im glad that the hotshot kit for the 1.6 is coming out I bought my car new and couldve got the sr20 I didnt know then The salesman said another engine 25 more hp and different wheels and stereo $3000 for 25 hp to me didnt sound like a good deal I researched it and now Im just glad I can fix up my car to make up for the difference


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## SRV1 (Sep 29, 2002)

PatScottAKA99XE said:


> *Still others would say "Get a real car with REAL wheel drive". *


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## rios (Jun 10, 2002)

SRV1 said:


> *  *


i think it was meant with rear wheel drive


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*Speaking for Pat.*



rios said:


> *i think it was meant with rear wheel drive *


It was meant as it was typed. For some people Rear wheel drive is REAL wheel drive, while front wheel drive is WRONG wheel drive. 

You get the idea.....

This is getting FAR off the topic of a boosted 1.6.... 

Or is it?


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

*Re: Speaking for Pat.*



wes said:


> *It was meant as it was typed. For some people Rear wheel drive is REAL wheel drive, while front wheel drive is WRONG wheel drive.
> 
> You get the idea.....
> 
> ...


I think your REAL weird.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*Re: Re: Speaking for Pat.*



W10DET2020 said:


> *I think your REAL weird. *


I'm real weird?


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## psshhgoesmysr20 (May 1, 2002)

I like the real wheel drive comment. I'll be there someday.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

this post is getting kinda weird 

wes, have u heard of the chassis braces for the s2000's. http://www.ricks2k.com/products/brace.html
we used to do most of the machining on the above mentioned brace when i worked at maxrev. they are real nice pieces. u should check em out


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

I wonder where things went WRONG with this WEIRD theard. 

Someone tell me why you would turbo a GA16DE in the first place?

Why wouldn't you just swap in a SR20DET, obviously if you have the money to do a GA16DET then you have enough to do a SR20DET swap, right? RIGHT!

Don't get me wrong I own GA16DE 98 200SX SE and it a decent ride but it doesn't compare to my 91 Sentra SE-R as far a performance goes, it just feel like the GA16DE is trying to hard while my SR20DE and now (T) revs with ease. 

Your not going to make more power than a stock SR20DET with a GA16DE turbo'd (without spending some $$$$) and you diffenantly (sp) won't have the reliability of the SR20DET. I bet a fully moded SR20DE would give you a run for your money let alone a stock SR20DET.

I'm all for being a pioneer and being the first to try shit but I think turboing a GA16DE is just not as smart a thing to do when you all ready have a proven SR20DET available.


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

W10DET2020 said:


> *The SR20DE is really cheap to $350 complete. I am also an owner of a 98 200SX SE, don't get me wrong I love the car and the GA16DE is a decent motor but it ain't nothing compared to the SR20DE. So what if it slightly more money you don't have to worry about building a bottom end and improving the head flow of a SR20. Anyways I think your car is nice, good job and congradulations on the turboing of a GA16DE. *


You already wrote your response *slash inquiry to this thread W10DET2020, and it came out the same both times, just worded differently. Not to mention the fact that he already answered your question as to why he did it. If you need a refresher go to page 2. 

Another good reason as to why he did it, _I think _anyways, is, "Why not?". Did you see his welds? He's not some 16 year old kid picking his zits with his daddy's tools thinking about how one day he'll own a skyline and rule the world. He's actually a talented individual. *I mean.. did you see his welds?!?* I know he doesn't need me to back him up on this what so ever... but I felt the need to post a reply to point out that he already answered the question over and over in this and many other threads. I don't see the need for him to waste his breathe as it were. Please don't think I'm shouting, or getting nitty gritty as an "e-thug"... just pointing out the obvious.


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## Adam (Apr 30, 2002)

No no no, the over 100,000 produced is total number of Sentras, not just SE-R's. That mean's ~6,000 SE-R's. and ~94,000 GA16's.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

thanks


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## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

dont forget that swapping in a DET requires MUCH more work than just "bolting" up the HS turbo kit to the GA. plus you will end up having to buy more parts to make the DET run cause the GA parts wont fit on a DET. if we were all SR20DEs, i would understand to swap the DET, but its a *bit* more complicated than that.

just had to throw in my input


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

AznVirus said:


> *dont forget that swapping in a DET requires MUCH more work*


yes, my car is living proof of that. So much work. It will never be finished! Finding correct pinouts on this piece are hard enough to find. I might as well play the lottery. I have a better chance winning that than ever hooking up every little thing properly.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

> my car is living proof of that. So much work. It will never be finished!


hey, just noticed ur in phoenix.....if u ever need any fab work done let me know, im in tempe.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*Off topic.*

Javier, Were you at the 02 SERCA convention?


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

no, i wasnt there. how was it? im gonna miss SEMA this year too cause of school


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

hey whats size intercooler piping are you running from the Turbo to the I/C and from the I/C to the throttle body?


Thanks
Khem


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

its 2" from comp to inlet of IC and 2" from outlet of IC to the tb. the inlet of the IC is 2.25" and the outlet is 2.25" too. i made some "swedges" for transitions. for now the piping is stainless, i didnt have enough $$ for AL.


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## Guest (Nov 5, 2002)

looks good but did you know that the 1.6 better to turbo then the 2.0 but it will not put out as much power as the 2.0 the reason why it is stronger is it is iron block and the 2.0 is alumnia or how ever you spell it but you will last longer then a 2.0 but we will get you all day good work i am doing a turbo on a 1.6 now and i am rebuilding my GTiR but good work looks good


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

Javier,
Having an iron block, did you tap the oil return into it or the oil pan? If so, how much of pain in the ass was it to tap the block?


Khem


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

i use to be on the side of why boost the ga...but now im on the side of why not? after i actually looked into all the parts i would need/want and how much down time my car would have since me and a friend would be the ones doing it..it just wasn't worth it. right now the hp of the hs turbo kit doesn't look too good. but with a bigger exhaust, cams, ecu, mass air, and more boost..200hp is easy. chef is running i think a straight t4 on his car and it is over 200hp on the stock bottom end so that should say something. anyone know if the crank and rods of our ga are forged? i know sr20's are forged. i am saving up right now for the hotshot bolt on kit..in the meantime i am going to build up a spare engine w/ forged pistons and rods, stronger rod bolts, different cams, maybe some headwork and many other things. i support you guys that are trying to develop this for us..i know there were a couple times i was very negative about it, but now im glad to see its a reality.


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

> The GA16DE and SR20DE crankshafts are fully (8) counterweighted forged steel units.


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

alright thanks james...anyone know about the rods? im sure the pistons are cast or hypertechnic(sp)


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

Link to sentra.net section about the bottom end of the GA


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

> Having an iron block, did you tap the oil return into it or the oil pan? If so, how much of pain in the ass was it to tap the block?


i welded a steel fitting onto the oil pan. its really easy, it takes longer to clean and prep the pan than it does to drill and weld.


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

javierb14 said:


> *i welded a steel fitting onto the oil pan. its really easy, it takes longer to clean and prep the pan than it does to drill and weld.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I hope thats not the return line.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

yes it is.


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

javierb14 said:


> *yes it is.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The oil return line should be above the the oil pan or else it will not drain into the pan a quickly as it should (it is a gravity drain and if it meets resistance with the residual oil left in the pan it will not be able to enter the pan or at least very slowly) causing over filling in (CHRA) center housing rotating assembly. Oil is suppost to pass through the CHRA as fast as possible and not sit in there, if oil fills up to the top in the CHRA you will probably experience excessive oil consumption regaurdless of the age of turbo.


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## W10DET2020 (Sep 1, 2002)

Its kind of hard to tell from your pic if its at the lowest point of the pan or the highest point. After looking at it harder it seems to be higher up but you still run the chance of oil blocking the return of oil, remember the oil pan is designed to keep the oil pick-up fully submerged at all times so there is a good chance that oil will be that at the highest point while running.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

its at the highest point possible, since it is the same level as the baffle inside the pan. it isnt blocked at all. the return line is relatively long since the turbo sits up top, and the most severe angle in the line is 45 deg. it drains just fine and i have yet to burn any oil or leak any.


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

Thanks for the Info an pictures. They look great. Im not too sure about the oil draining back in the pan but i hope it works ok for you.

Anyone tried drilling an iron block???


Khem


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## dave_f (Dec 11, 2002)

I am coming in late to this thread, I just found this forum today. (I usually poke around the sr20de board). But I too am in the process of building a turbo ga16de. I'm glad to see there is a lot of interest and at least one other GA16DE-T, besides the hotshot/sccc project car of course. I am very impressed with javierb14's handy work. I am piecing together my system out of a lot of used parts and fabricating what I cant find... Its gradually coming together and I hope to get it all together by early spring.
I will be tapping my block for the oil return, I was considering welding in a bung to the oil pan, instead I am planning on drilling into an unused boss on the front of my block directly below my turbo... though I think returning it to the pan works just as well. My engine is currently on a stand so I have room to work, otherwise I would definitely pull the oil pan and weld in a bung. 
-dave


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

thanks, i plan on rebuilding the mani this winter break and or building a tubular one, possibly with a larger turbo.


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## FFgeon (Nov 28, 2002)

my plates for my hoop are in javalava dingdong  just thought i would share that


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

*another Ga16DET in the house, *

sup guys I just picked up a full turbo kit for my very own GA16DE, it's going into my 1994 Sentra LE 4dr automatic. It's a basic T3 turbo .42/.48 A/R on a custom log manifold, currently it is piped for a 1G DSM intercooler I will post pics on my next post.

javierB14 - how hard was it to tap the oil pan? did you take it out then do it? what parts did you need to reaplace? like seals, etc.? where can I get a fitting like that...that you used? thanks...

BTW- it took me and the two previous owners of the turbo kit 2hours to completely take all the turbo parts out of the car, that includes time of letting the manifold/downpipe cool down.

Later,
JCC


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

*PICS!*

I will update when I get it all installed in my car
























JCC


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

pics of the stuff in my room:
































JCC


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## dave_f (Dec 11, 2002)

JCGator42,
How are you going to route the plumbing for that starion intercooler (the one in the parts picture)? I have a starion IC and am waiting for my intercooler plumbing parts to come in. I have a plan for how it is going to fit together, but I am always curious to hear and see other peoples ideas (I noticed the end tanks and piping have already been modified). I'll post some pics when I get mine mounted to the car.
-dave


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

heheh, wow!, that was fast. I am not sure if I am going to run that Starion IC, althought it is in pefect condition, the piping might be to much of a PITA, and I already have all the piping to run the 1G DSM IC. So I am unsure right now, the only thing I know for sure is that I am flat broke,
JCC

P.S. I will let you know what I see will be the best way to run the piping to the Starion IC when I get working on the car, I'll be sure to take lots of pics.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

> javierB14 - how hard was it to tap the oil pan? did you take it out then do it? what parts did you need to reaplace? like seals, etc.? where can I get a fitting like that...that you used? thanks...


I didnt tap the pan, i used a hole saw and welded the fitting on. yes, i highly recommend taking the pan off to install the fitting. when its off, its easier to drill the hole, and prepare the surface for welding. oh and u dont want any metal shavings inside the engine! removing the pan is easy, u just have to support the tranny and loosen/remove the crossmemer. as far as seals go, i just used some "liquid gasket" between the pan lip and engine block. make sure u clean the mating surface well. i havent had any leaks yet. i got the steel fitting from a hardware store. i dont remember the size off the top of my head. any place that carries AN fittings should carry them.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

getting that IC to fit in a B13 or B14 shouldn't be to hard. i got a 28*8*3 core to fit in my car and kept the fog lights.


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

hey javier, can you get me the T3 oil inlet/outleft flanges for the center section? or did you custom make some? how much?
thanks,
JCC


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

*Yet another.*

Wow another custom GA turbo. The ONLY thing I see wrong with that setup is the manifold and where the flange is positioned for the turbo. Turbo should spool OK as it's a small housing. Let us know your impressions when you get it installed. What are you doing about fuel management?


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

i know that www.turbochargers.com carries T3 oil inlet and outlet flanges for $20.00/flange. i believe they are CNC'd billet aluminum. i may have a spare outlet flange at home, i'll check.


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## dave_f (Dec 11, 2002)

oil flanges for T series turbos
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1875051764


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

ya, i have that extra T3 oil drain flange. paypal me $15.00 and its urs. the oil inlet is either 1/4in or 1/8in NPT if i remember correctly. unless u have the other type of inlet.


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

OK, I think I'll get that from you, I'll try sending a paypal ASAP, can you PM or e-mail me at [email protected] and send me your paypal acct. address...thanks,
JCC

P.S. about my fuel management I am going to run stock SE-R injectors(259cc) along with a Vortech FMU(12:1 calibration disk). I am also running a Gti-R BOV instead of the TurboXS BOV in that picture.


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

in dont think the stock fuel pump can keep up with that kind of fuel pressure. might wanta to add an inline pump too. what about ignition timing?


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

ok, here is my update, sorry that I have left it so incomplete. I have a brand new Bosch high flow fuel pump that I am dropping in, I also have an MSD 6A ignition and coil already on the car that I am going to leave. I might also get an MSD BTM along with things if I decide to run high boost, but I think I'll be fine around 8-10psi with the SE-R injectors on the stock ECU, since it will run that much richer with these injectors, I belive the stock GA16DE injectors are 210cc or maybe smaller,
JCC

P.S. I will get you guys pics and a list of all the mods so you know what I have and can let me know anything I might need, I might send out the stock ECU to JWT, but I can't afford to have the car down, I might need another automatic 91-94 GA16DE ECU.


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

stock ga injectors are 195cc...teeny tiny. it's nice to see more and more people modding the ga instead of just doing the swap.


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

Sorry to kinda get off topic here but how do u determine the cc's of an injector?



Khem


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## dave_f (Dec 11, 2002)

The injector flowrate is the flow out of the injector when it is wide open (12v across the electircal terminals) and the fuel is at system pressure.
-dave


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

I know that part but im just wondering how you would find out what a certain injector is. Flow wise. How can you tell.


Khem


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

the color of the injector. but most every injector manufacturer has different colors for different rates so it isnt universal. ga injectors are a pinkish color and are 195cc, then the reds are se-r's and 259, the 370's are i think..blue? a bit of useless info here..if you wanna know the size of the injector in pounds then take the cc's and divide by 10.5 and if you wanna go from pounds to cc's then multiply by 10.5.


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## khemicol (May 1, 2002)

Thanks Katana thats the info i was looking for.


Khem


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## Katana200sx (May 13, 2002)

no problem


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

thank gawd,
I'm gonna be using the SE-R injectors, them GA injectors are tiny. Is there any way to change out the injectors and rail w/o taking off the intake manifold, I don't wanna spend any more time than I have to,
JCC


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## dave_f (Dec 11, 2002)

careful with the color coding... it might be a good for a rule of thumb, but Nissan isn't always consistent. I have a set of 370cc injectors from a Q45 and they are red toped. Though it is possible to remove the injectors and rail with the intake plenum in place, but its sort of like of one of those evil puzzle tricks that you can spend hours on... and you run the risk of braking off those little tabs on the bottom of the injectors. Your best bet would be to remove the upper portion of the intake plenum.
-dave


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

Yo, Javier. Can you post the pics again? I really want to see them


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

sure....
www.public.asu.edu/~ramirez0


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## JCGator42 (Apr 30, 2002)

ok, I finished my car I am gonna make a new post, I will post the pics first then my list of mods,
JCC


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## javierb14 (Jul 9, 2002)

cool beans!


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