# After I cleaned my throttle body, I am getting high idle.



## Canadian Bear (Aug 22, 2007)

I decided to "tune-up" my X-Trail a little bit. I "recharged" my K&N air filter, vacuumed out the air filter housing, and cleaned my throttle body. Unfortunately, instead of getting better results, I now have rpm between 1400 and 1600. Before the tune-up, I was idling normally (750 rpm).

I have phoned the nearest Nissan dealership and I spoke to a tech. He told me that I have to bring my X-Trail in and have their scan tool diagnose the problem. He also said that I may have caused the ECM to lose it's ability to "idle air learn". When I cleaned my throttle body, I had to take it off of the intake manifold. But, there was a connection that I had to disconnect in order to make it easier to clean. I am going to assume that this is the "throttle position sensor".

Anyway, I put everything back together and there didn't seem to be a problem when I started my X-Trail. I had to put a few things back in the house, and when I came out I noticed that my idle was high. Not long after that, my CEL (check engine light) came on. I disconnected the battery for a good hour while I washed my X-Trail. When I reconnected the battery, the CEL didn't come back on, but the rpm are still high.

Has anyone else done this, and if so, what was your solution to solving the problem (s) before taking your X-Trail to the dealership?


*Note*

I have done a search, here, and nothing really pops up that pertains to the problem (s) that I am having.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

If you removed the throttle body and touched the butterfly with your finger or cleaned it, you would have lost your idle position. It happened to me once as well and I didn't know that I wasn't supposed to touch the butterfly of the throttle body, as the idle position is electronically set. The only way to have the idle corrected now is to take it to a nearest dealer for them to do the "idle re-learn" procedure and it is a 10 minutes job that cost me $10 bucks only at my dealer.

Nothing serious and it will be back to normal again.

The check engine light will probably give you the "throttle position error" code and this will go away after the re-set.

There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.


----------



## Canadian Bear (Aug 22, 2007)

Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle. 

Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.

Thank you for your incite.


----------



## Manuelgamex (Jan 12, 2007)

aussietrail said:


> There is a DIY idle re-set process on our Aussie forum if you wanna try that, but it is a bit complicated and it didn't work for me. I reckon it'll be easier to pay them the 10 bucks or so and have them do it.


It's a bit complicated but with patience you can do it, Don't know why but my Xty got experienced frecuent warm start up problems that I solved with the Idle re-set procedure.

A needle chronometer it's very helpful.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Manuelgamex said:


> It's a bit complicated but with patience you can do it, Don't know why but my Xty got experienced frecuent warm start up problems that I solved with the Idle re-set procedure.
> 
> A needle chronometer it's very helpful.


I guess so Manuel, I was only using my watch and you really need to get the timing right to the second.


----------



## Canadian Bear (Aug 22, 2007)

Maybe that is where I went wrong. I didn't have the timing right.


----------



## Manuelgamex (Jan 12, 2007)

If you're ultraprecise it's more or less easy, need to do the push pedal with some rythm, whey you see the check engine light flashing, you're inside the setting procedure, if not, start over.

I got a copy of the procedure at the trunk all the time, just in case.


----------



## Canadian Bear (Aug 22, 2007)

All is well now. The tech took about 3 minutes to sort out the problem with the scan tool. He thought it would be longer. Thus, he didn't charge me. Not only did I not have to pay anything, but to hear my X-Trail running normally with a clean intake is priceless.

Upon having a chat with him, he has told me that it is rare for an X-Trail to come into the shop with anything major. It is usually minor and he has only seen 3 come in during his time there. As for the Rogue, the lady that does the paperwork to enter the vehicles into their system told me that they come in quite often with tranny replacements, etc. In other words, the Rogue has many more problems at launch that the X-Trail never had. I mean, a tranny replacement after 10,000 km is a major problem. I didn't like the Rogue from the start, but to get an idea of the problems that it is having, early on, makes my dislike even stronger.

I am glad that I have my X-Trail. Besides putting the tire balance out, during some off-roading, and a quick computer fix, my X-Trail has been flawless for the 26,000 km I put on her in 9 months. Nissan should be proud of what they have made, in the X-Trail.


----------



## Wibig (Jun 4, 2008)

*Problem with throttle housing*

Hi guys,

According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Wibig said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> According to what Canadian Bear said, I have now a problem with the throttle housing. It's what our local Nissan tech said to me. I've been using my x-trail for 3 years now and I never had that kind of problem. The problem is that now I have the rpm running between 1400 and 1600. When I stop the AC and my gearbox is in the "parking position" (automatic car), instead of starting running low to 750 rpm, the rpm increase to 1600. I did nothing on my car, I just took it to our nissan dealership 1 month ago cause they had to change the bearing. Can someone tell me where can I buy the throttle housing cause they are asking me 2450 $ to change this piece. Looking forward to hearing from you, I thank you in advance.



Please read the previous replies and ask your dealer to perform the idle reset. There is nothing wrong with your throttle body housing. You only lost your idle setting and this can be reset by the dealer.


----------



## Wibig (Jun 4, 2008)

Hi Jalal,

I did well received your answer and I thank you. I will then bring my car to our local nissan dealer and tell them to reset the idle setting. But there's still one question I'd like to ask : how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
Thanks also for the manual parts for nissan X-trail t30.

Regards, 

Wibig


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Wibig said:


> Hi Jalal,
> how did this matter happen ? Does the idle settings can be lost without no particular manipulation?
> Regards,
> 
> Wibig


It's a good question to ask your dealer who serviced the car.  They could have removed the throttle body to clean it and touched the butterfly with their fingers and simply forgot to reset the idle OR they cleaned the throttle body with the throttle body spray cleaner and also didn't do the idle reset.

No worries about the catalogue. You're welcome.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Is there anyways besides going to the dealer to reset the idle speed?


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Anyone?


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Check the Australian X-Trail Forum DIY section and you will find the DIY procedure to do the idle re-learn there.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Thank you very much sir! 

http://www.australianxtrail.com.au/files/idle_relearn.pdf


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

You're welcome. I hope you can get it sorted.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Yupp i'll keep you guys updated, will try it out tomorrow

Hope i don't screw up anything


----------



## streamcast (Oct 8, 2009)

Try this I hope it helps you






1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
d. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
e. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.

2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .

a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON'.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 

4. Check that all items listed under the topic 'PREPARATION' (previously mentioned) are in good order. 

5. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' and wait at least 10 seconds. 

6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait 3 seconds. 

7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds. 

a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON. 

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. 

10. Start engine and let it idle. 

11. Wait 20 seconds. 

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. M/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in Neutral position)
A/T: 700 ± 50 rpm (in P or N position

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, more test needs to be done.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Ok well i tried it but i think my timing was wrong...i'm not getting the MIL to blink or even turn on

I remember a guy had put it in diagnostic mode some time ago doing something like this, is this procedure putting it in diagnostic mode?

If so i might just let him do it for me


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Yeah, it's not easy at all and you must use a stop watch to get the timing right to the seond, otherwise it won't work.

The diagnostic ECU reader device will not re-set your idle, only Consult II used by Nissan dealers can do it.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Cool thanks, well i managed to get the MIL to blink, but at #9 i think i mixed up the step

What i did was release the pedal as soon as the light remained ON

I will try again in the morning and let you all know, it's almost midnight here


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Hey well i tried the manual way and it was not working. So i went to the dealer and they hooked up their computer to it but they said it was not "accepting the relearn procedure".

I took it to another place that does computer diagnostics and they spent about 3 hours with it and they managed to relearn the idle speed. 

The guy said they had to scan the entire system then remap everything from scratch. I'm not sure what he meant but i'm glad it's back to normal again.

Note to self - NEVER touch the throttle body again


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

That's a good note to make for yourself indeed 

I had the same problem when I fitted the piggy back ECU and the guys touched the electronic butterfly of the throttle body and moved it with their hands. It took me 3 times of visiting them again and again for them to get the idle right and even Nissan couldn't do it. It was accepting the re-learn fine but was not holding it for long. Am glad your mechanic had the patience to do it as the last time I did mine, it took the guy close to 45 minutes of fiddling around with the settings to get it right. You might want to add your mechanic to the list of trusted ones as he sure does know what he's doing.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Thanks man i sure will add him to that list 

I was afraid i would have had to buy a new throttle body but he assured me he would get it fixed


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

Got an '01 3.5L Pathfinder. I cleaned the throttle body and now have fast idle and CEL code P0505 "idle control system malfunction". I repeatedly tried the manual 'idle reset procedure' avail online with no luck and quess I will have to take it to the dealership service department for the Consult II reset. 

Any Nissan service tech that could verify I am on the right track? Any in Bham, AL that could shadetree this for me?


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

UPDATE

well, I could never get the self-prograamming function of the idle air relearn procedure to work. I must have done it 455X, timing it, etc. What a PIA. The dealer said it's $100 to pull in in the door so I took it to a smaller shop that has done work for me, stating they had the ability to do this. I hr later at $73/hr and I was on my way. When I mentioned to them that I understood this to be a 10 minute procedure, they told me the machine to do this was $6000 with $200 quarterly updates required. 

Note to self: leave the TB alone in the future.


----------



## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Yupp i learnt that the hard way also, the machine and software is pretty expensive, i paid around the same price to get mine done.


----------



## KLL (Dec 2, 2005)

i did same thing, and pushed valve by a screw driver to clean. it lost idling point. then i went to Nissan and they recalibrate idling with consult device.

two weeks ago, car started to stall at start. i checked and found that TB was dirty again, i asked my friend to help me to turn on the iginiton and turn off. while it was adjusting TB itself, i sprayed brake pad cleaner and it worked. so it is possible to clean it without touching it. now it starts normally.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

KLL said:


> i sprayed brake pad cleaner and it worked.


Suggest you buy Throttle Body Cleaner and clean it properly again because the brake pad cleaner is not meant to be used to clean the TB.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

dgangle said:


> UPDATE
> 
> well, I could never get the self-prograamming function of the idle air relearn procedure to work. I must have done it 455X, timing it, etc. What a PIA. The dealer said it's $100 to pull in in the door so I took it to a smaller shop that has done work for me, stating they had the ability to do this. I hr later at $73/hr and I was on my way. When I mentioned to them that I understood this to be a 10 minute procedure, they told me the machine to do this was $6000 with $200 quarterly updates required.
> 
> Note to self: leave the TB alone in the future.


What a load of bullocks from the dealers and the mechanic. The idle re-set is done while you wait and takes no longer than 10 minutes using Consult II and a cost of no more than $10 bucks!!


----------



## mgfiest (Sep 13, 2009)

Maybe so in Ozland... but here in Cunuckville it's by the hour.... even if it's only 10 minutes


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

they weren't going to budge. I got to help pay for they overhead I guess.


----------



## KLL (Dec 2, 2005)

aussietrail said:


> Suggest you buy Throttle Body Cleaner and clean it properly again because the brake pad cleaner is not meant to be used to clean the TB.


thank you for suggestion. 
i have been cleaning TBs for ages with that spray. nothing is wrong on them but it is not possible to find specific TB cleaner in shops here. what is the main difference?


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

I have read that other cleaners than somethng like http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...3G&zmam=73771597&zmas=18&zmac=129&zmap=17223G can remove protective coatings on certain manufacturer's parts and damage O2 sensors. 

Some vehicles have as many as (6) O2 sensors and with some in excess of $200 each, taking the steps to purchase and use the manufacturer's recommended cleaner could save one significant money in the short run.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

mgfiest said:


> Maybe so in Ozland... but here in Cunuckville it's by the hour.... even if it's only 10 minutes


It's by the hour in Australia as well, but the idle re-set and job similar to that have a fixed price because they know exactly how long it'll take them to do, so you are being ripped off.


----------



## KLL (Dec 2, 2005)

dgangle said:


> I have read that other cleaners than somethng like Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner - JCWhitney can remove protective coatings on certain manufacturer's parts and damage O2 sensors.
> 
> Some vehicles have as many as (6) O2 sensors and with some in excess of $200 each, taking the steps to purchase and use the manufacturer's recommended cleaner could save one significant money in the short run.


thank you for information!


----------



## mgfiest (Sep 13, 2009)

Maybe so on being ripped off... but it's the way it is.... I'm over it...


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

I never like paying more than I have to for anything. When all available options are similar, I don't look at it as "being ripped off" but moreso the price of admission. 

You are getting a gift.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

dgangle said:


> I never like paying more than I have to for anything. When all available options are similar, I don't look at it as "being ripped off" but moreso the price of admission.
> 
> You are getting a gift.


LOL  A gift? 

If no one will challenge them about that over-inflated price to do such a minor service, they will just continue on with giving you that "gift" and others as well 

All you need to do to prove your point to them is show them the print-out of the re-setting the idle using the manual process and state that if that manual procedure takes 15-20 minutes to perform without Consult II, why you're being charged for a full hour by them when they use the much easier automated process!


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

That ain't how it works. They have the tools & knowledge & provide the service & dictate the price. If one does not like the price they can either agree to the rate & pay or go away. 

Your suggestion is like waiting on your food at a restaurant for 30 minutes and telling the cook your steak should only have taken 12 minutes to cook. While i understand yuour reasoning, it solves nothing and makes you look like an ass and burns a bridge for them ever working on your stuff again.

Shops in AUS must get their tools, building, electricity, insurance, advertising and labor for free????

I 'kindly" challenged them as you call it and was told it takes a $6,000 tool that requires $200 quarterly updates. So in other words they said "don't you worry about how long it took me, I have bills to pay and if you want me to fix your car that you admit not being able to do, then you will pay what I say"


----------



## mgfiest (Sep 13, 2009)

before this thing gets into a shouting match... let's agreed that things are handle differently in either country... the point has been made clear on both side of the world...


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Mate, I'm happy if you're happy, so don't sweat it. If you are happy to pay that much, by all means....I know that I would NOT, even if that shop was the only one in the country to provide that "service"! I'd cross the border to another country and it'll still be cheaper and worth it 

Shops in Australia don't operate for free but they won't make a living by charging you triple for a procedure that is commonly known and can be done by any other shop with a scan tool. They would have closed down a long time ago had they been ripping people off like that.

P.S. The cook at that restaurant is not charging me by the hour for me to wait for that steak to be done, so I don't mind waiting because I paid a set price for that piece of steak which am happy with


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

In life, many times things come down to who you know. 

Twist it how you want, but you don't tell someone how to do their job, or how long it should take, or what it should cost unless you are training or managing them.


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

As a consumer you have every right to question it. Unless the Consumer Act in Canada doesn't give you that right and privilege.


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

twist it however you want


----------



## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

No "twisting" involved here at all mate. If you're happy to get over-charged, it doesn't mean it's a fact of life and everyone else should follow suit. I think I've said enough on this topic.


----------



## dgangle (Nov 22, 2009)

Not over charging. Price of admission. Some of us come to grips with that and others don't. Yes, more than enough has been said. I do appreciate your input.


----------



## JudyP (Nov 26, 2011)

*High Idle Speed*

Hi All, I registered just so I could put aquick message. I have to say thank you to Canadian Bear for asking the question re cleaning the throttle body and the resultant high idle speed but most of all I would like to say a huge thank you to aussietrail for the reply about Nissan dealers resetting the idle speed!!

I have a 2.5l petrol 2005 x trail and it was holding revs a little too long so my mechanic said the throttle body can get rammed with crap so he cleaned it. After that it was idling at about 15000 and the next day started to rev itself up to 20000 and then drop back to 15000 - without the throttle pedal being touched!!! PANIC!! So the mechanic said "it'll relearn itself over the next few days or so and if it doesn't it needs a new throttle body"

Well Nissan wanted £1300 for a new throttle body and it was really hard to find a reconditioned one for a 2.5 petrol so I Googled it and thank god your forum came up. I read the whole thread here and was so excited when aussietrail mentioned the idle reset that I called my local Nissan dealer and booked it in for yesterday - folks I can't tell you how happy I was to hear my x trail purr like a kitten again!! Took the guy 10 minutes and they didn't even charge me for it!

Thank you, thank you, thank you to nissan forum!

A very happy JudyP in ENGLAND :newbie:


----------



## 99quest (Jan 2, 2012)

*Same procedure for a 99 Quest*

Appreciate the spirit!

I also cleaned the throttle body, moved the butterfly with my fingers in order to clean the carbon - My idle is very high, with the CEL on.

Are the procedures the same for idle reset, etc for this model car? Will you please list the main steps?

thanks,


----------



## Dragomir (May 23, 2012)

Hello !
GREAT THANK YOU ! 
You do not know how much happy I Am ! )
You men ,from Australian X-Trail Forum safe my money,safe my nerves ,safe my car from mechanics idiots in the place I live !(Dominican Republic) 
I was infront of to buy a new throttle ! 
And last night I registered here I saw your forum conversation and then entered in Australian X-Trail Forum ...so 
Yes ! I made 4-5 attempts but now ...I am so Happy !  
THANK YOU !


----------



## warrenw (Sep 16, 2009)

I had to do this after checking my butterfly screws in the intake.

It took me 12 attempts. the secret is to count 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000, ...
It can be done. It is not impossible.. The service manual has a great graphical diagram of what needs to be done when, the position of the key, the pedal, when and how many seconds. Page 79 of the Engine control section..


----------



## matthews (Oct 27, 2015)

*throttle chamber problem*

my Nissan Tiida was giving engine light on after startup and running aroung 1 km. After checking dealer informed to change throttle chamber. They have done first cleaning and re set idle but still this same problem coming sometimes.


----------



## anacairo (3 mo ago)

Canadian Bear said:


> Well, I did move the butterfly in order to clean the carbon from where the butterfly finally rests. I had no idea that this would cause a hassle.
> 
> Unfortunately, because I live in the "boom province" of Alberta, nothing is cheap. Therefore, I have to pay $65 for their estimation of a "half hour job". I have tried a DIY, that I have found at this forum, but no results.
> 
> Thank you for your incite.


 Where did you end up going? I know this was posted a long long time ago but maybe there’s a chance that you might know. I took mine to country hills nissan in Calgary and they were just awful. The one in Red Deer never has available spots, and everywhere else is too far for me to drive my death machine. I cleaned my throttle body and the engine light was still on but it seemed to work a little bit. I then did the “manual” relearning procedure that i’ve seen on here time before, and it almost seemed to make it worse. Did you ever end up taking it to a dealership? If so, how expensive was it


----------



## DFSpencer (Oct 21, 2019)

dgangle said:


> That ain't how it works. They have the tools & knowledge & provide the service & dictate the price. If one does not like the price they can either agree to the rate & pay or go away.
> 
> Your suggestion is like waiting on your food at a restaurant for 30 minutes and telling the cook your steak should only have taken 12 minutes to cook. While i understand yuour reasoning, it solves nothing and makes you look like an ass and burns a bridge for them ever working on your stuff again.
> 
> ...


What nonsense. You can go to Amazon (or other places probably) and buy the iCarsoft diagnostic tool that covers all Japanese cars. I bought the iCarsoft JP V2.0 (which does Japanese cars but not also Korean, a V 3.0 does that) and at Amazon Canada (where I live) it is on sale now for about $225 CAD. It can do the throttle body recalibration and actually does really "understand" the codes and setups on the cars it covers, so unlike more general purpose and also less expensive diagnostic tools. The iCarsoft I believe does provide updates but the T30 hardly needs updates considering it hasn't been manufactured since 2006.
I also just don't get this obsession with cleaning the throttle butterfly or the rest of the inside surfaces of that ETC (Electric Throttle Control) unit. The air going through it is the filtered intake air and the only other upstream connection is the intake air line for the crankcase. If the engine is working correctly and serviced properly you shouldn't have crankcase fumes backing up into that line. The ETC connects to a plenum so it is a fair distance from the true intake manifold and the intake valves. The PCV is further along in the plenum and that is the only obvious potential source of contaminants anywhere near the ETC . If you are properly replacing the PCV valve when it fails there shouldn't be problems created by it. I did remove the ETC on my T30 and disassembled the box on the unit that contains the working bits. It's pretty simple, with a small motor (not easily gotten to) and a pair of potentiometers (one in reverse taper to the other) that gives the ECU the positional feedback for the butterfly. This unit is totally dumb, and it has no sensors of any kind connected to the actual internal, throat, of the Electric Throttle Control unit, in other words there are no fine channels to get gummed up like you find in the venturis of carburetors. In my opinion you are really being very foolish if you actually force reposition the butterfly while cleaning it because there is at least one plastic gear inside the control box and you will see if you push on the butterfly that there is a fair amount of resistance to repositioning it so you could mess things up in that critical part of the unit if you're not careful.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Canadian Bear said:


> I decided to "tune-up" my X-Trail a little bit. I "recharged" my K&N air filter, vacuumed out the air filter housing, and cleaned my throttle body. Unfortunately, instead of getting better results, I now have rpm between 1400 and 1600. Before the tune-up, I was idling normally (750 rpm).
> 
> I have phoned the nearest Nissan dealership and I spoke to a tech. He told me that I have to bring my X-Trail in and have their scan tool diagnose the problem. He also said that I may have caused the ECM to lose it's ability to "idle air learn". When I cleaned my throttle body, I had to take it off of the intake manifold. But, there was a connection that I had to disconnect in order to make it easier to clean. I am going to assume that this is the "throttle position sensor".
> 
> ...


According to the FSM, the No load* (in P or N position) idle speed is around 650 +/- 50 rpm. The idle speed is controlled by the ECU on most late model vehicles; there is no manual adjustment like they had on the old vehicles. If you need to bring the idle speed back to spec, there is a procedure called the "Idle Air Volume Learning" (IAVL) which is a function of ECU to learn the idle air volume that keeps the engine idle speed within the specific range. It must be performed after any of the following conditions:

• Each time the electric throttle control actuator or ECU is replaced.
• Each time the throttle body harness connectors are unplugged/replugged.
• Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
• Check Engine Light (CEL) with P0507 trouble code and high/pulsating idle.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds to reset the ECU. Do not perform the relearn procedure if the check engine light (CEL) is still on and codes related to the mass airflow sensor, manifold absolute pressure, or incorrect idle speed are found. If everything is in order, we can begin.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TOOLS NEEDED: stopwatch or timer showing seconds.

ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION LEARNING

Do not start engine in this procedure.

1. Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING

Do not start engine in this procedure.

1. Make sure the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Make sure throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------










IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING

1. First, bring the engine/transmission to normal operating temperature, 70-100°C or 158-212°F; do this by driving on the road for not less than 30 minutes; warming up the car in the garage doesn’t cut it! Next turn off all accessories such as the air conditioning, rear window defogger, radio, and heater blower to prevent a load on the engine which would cause erroneous positioning of the throttle plate. Finally, make sure the front wheels of the vehicle are in the neutral position pointing straight ahead. We are now ready to perform the required relearn procedure.
2. Selector lever: P or N (CVT), neutral (M/T), Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle), engine coolant temperature: 70-100°C or (158-212°F), turn off all electrical powered stuff, wheels turned straight.
3. Shut off engine and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. With the foot off the brake pedal, turn ignition switch to the ON position(not START) or push ignition switch button to the ON position(two taps) and start the stopwatch at the same time.
5. When the stopwatch is at 3 seconds, press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times fully and quickly within 5 seconds.
6. Wait 7 seconds or more then fully press the accelerator pedal and hold for approximately 20 seconds or more until the CEL stops blinking and stays ON constantly.
(note: If the CEL never starts blinking, then something is not working and you'd better start over again).
7. Within 3 seconds after the CEL stays on constantly, release the accelerator pedal.
8. Immediately start the engine and let it idle. It may still likely be a high-rev/pulsating idle.
9. Let it run for no less then 20 seconds, then rev the engine a few times.
10. With the foot on the brake pedal, shift into Drive. Idle should now go down under 1000 rpm. Shift to Park or neutral again, and the car should find its regular idle speed. Operation will be normal except the CEL might still be on. It may disappear soon on its own, or you can do the following:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EASY RESET OF CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL)

1. Turn the key OFF and wait at least 10 secondsis by far the best tool around for checking out CVT's, and
2. Turn the key ON (no ignition), wait 3 seconds, then press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times fully and quickly within 5 seconds.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press the accelerator.
4. After about 12 seconds, CEL should go off then start blinking. As soon as it starts blinking, release the accelerator.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then fully press the accelerator.
6. Wait 10 seconds, then fully release the accelerator.
7. Turn the key to OFF, then immediately start the engine. The CEL should now be off.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(special note: If the IAVL fails to complete because of high idle due to other conditions, unplug one or more fuel injector harness connectors to bring down the idle speed.)

=============================================================================

Also If you have an Android phone, the CVTz50 app can also perform an IAVL. All you need to make it work is an ELM327 adaptor for under $20. The VeePeak VP11 is the best-cheapest one that gives you full function with CVTz50.


----------

