# RB26DETT & AWD



## nustad (Feb 15, 2008)

Hey folks! New guy here:
I am debating a JDM Skyline R32 drivetrain (RB26DETT, complete with the AWD) swap into my classic Datsun Roadster. I thought I'd ask some questions of those of you who have 'em.... if you don't mind.

Specifically, I've been looking at a 1/2-cut JDM car but there are a few things I'm concerned about:
Will the drivetrain parts (CV joints, axles, bearings, etc) be available as a cross from another vehicle that was available in the US? 

What things will be the MOST difficult to find?

And perhaps most importantly: What do y'all know about the workings of the electronic torque-split system on the car? Will that be something that I can make work in a custom application such as this? Can I set it at 50/50 and leave it? How exactly does it work?

Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. 

Thank You.
Dan


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

nustad said:


> Hey folks! New guy here:
> I am debating a JDM Skyline R32 drivetrain (RB26DETT, complete with the AWD) swap into my classic Datsun Roadster. I thought I'd ask some questions of those of you who have 'em.... if you don't mind.
> 
> Specifically, I've been looking at a 1/2-cut JDM car but there are a few things I'm concerned about:
> ...


 well i am not about to page a 100 paragrapgh explaination on how things work with the AWD system but i can break down your post for you to help you out and answer some of your questions... however be prepared to have new questions too  i am

ok lets see where do we begin



> I am debating a JDM Skyline R32 drivetrain (RB26DETT, complete with the AWD) swap into my classic Datsun Roadster. I thought I'd ask some questions of those of you who have 'em.... if you don't mind.


there are a few people in Australia that have done this... but more recently a tuner shop in the USA did a full RB26 with the attessa-ets awd into a s14 it was a recent cover for modified mag



> Specifically, I've been looking at a 1/2-cut JDM car but there are a few things I'm concerned about:


i would suggest getting a R33 or R34 halfcut... the differences will be in that with the R33 you can use some R32 parts where as with the R34 you can pretty much only use R34 parts and they are more expensive.... Also with the R33's the oil pump drive shaft issue was resolved which was a problem that plagued the early R32's ... you should be able to get a half cut in good condition for about 5000$



> Will the drivetrain parts (CV joints, axles, bearings, etc) be available as a cross from another vehicle that was available in the US?


in short No, the only car that had some compatible parts was the Z32 but the parts where not drivetrain related... in fact you will prolly have to customize your own shafts to fit or make the body wider to accomidate the stock drive shafts...



> What things will be the MOST difficult to find?


Nothing is hard to find... you just have to know where to look.... for parts from japan i would recommend Adam at feast auto export... he has helped me and a lot of other people i know never once has anyone had a problem... tell him Shadao sent ya  

parts from japan take no time at all to get here... i got stuff in 2weeks but could have had it in 72 hrs if i wanted to pay an extra 25$ but im cheap when it comes to shipping 



> And perhaps most importantly: What do y'all know about the workings of the electronic torque-split system on the car? Will that be something that I can make work in a custom application such as this? Can I set it at 50/50 and leave it? How exactly does it work?


Well thats the big question now isnt it... how does the attessa-ets work... well heres a breif explaination of it....

unlike subies and evos which are 60/40 or 50/50 the GTR with the attessa is different...

under normal accelleration it is 100% rear, but if you loose traction it will send power up to the front wheels upto 50/50,the amount it will send is dependant on your current speed, gear, and rpm range... it also depends on which attessa-ets version you are using... i find wiki to be useful in understanding the differences...

not only does it send the power back to front it also sends power side to side, it is because of this that the GTR became such a legendary beast... and cars like the evo and sti have been built to compete... somewhat...

im sure there are tq spliters which will allow you to have pure50/50 all the time but that would defeat the pourpose of what the attessa is about....

does this help?


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## nustad (Feb 15, 2008)

yes, that helps ALOT!

I'll go look at WIKI abit for some more detail. I'd like to know how the ATESSA (is that right?) works. Does it use wheel speed sensors? (I'm assuming it must) I think I could deal with that in my fabrication, as long as the parts can be sourced relatively inexpensively. (I don't expect it to be cheap.... but I don't want to start nickel-n-dime'ing this thing with $100 and $500 dollar bills either!)

Right away though: You mention finding an R33 half-cut for $5k-ish? Can you point me to some sources?

Thanks

Dan


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

Adam @ feast auto export --- FEAST AE/RS JAPAN one of the best parts guys in the world...

Welcome to Osaka Official Webite --- heard mixed reviews about this company... more good than bad but why take the chance...

id really reccomend getting intouch with adam at feast... super easy to deal with and speaks fluent english and japanese...

feast AE/RS site is currently being worked on but im sure you can still msg them


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## nustad (Feb 15, 2008)

I've emailed both of those companies. Thanks for your help.

I've done a little research today, and the ATESSA ETS doesn't scare me any longer, as long as I'll be able to source the wheel sensors and brakes.......

It looks like there are alot of folks out there who have done various things to try to overcome the oil-pump problem on the R32 motor. Various aftermarket pumps and such. Any of you have any FHE on any of the "fixes"? I ask, because I'm finding R32 half-cuts to be much more plentiful (and as such, 'cheaper') than their R33 counterparts.

Any more continued help and ideas would be great!

Thanks!

Dan


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

the main issue with the R32 engines... and this was only in the early years any of the V-spec II R32's didnt have this issue as it was resolved at the factory.... so i think GTR32's after 94 should be safe...

otherwise you can get the bullet proof solution from tomei for about 3000, which would include there oil pump which is good to 10,000rpm as well as the oil pump drive shaft collar... but you could make your own prolly cheaper..... it would also come with the oil pan baffle to keep the oil where it needs to be...

just check out tomei and what they have to offer im sure you will see what i am talking about


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## nustad (Feb 15, 2008)

okay, I've been doing some checking around. 

The RB25DET motor w/ AWD is more readily available, particualry as a half-cut, which is much more useful to me.

I'm less familiar with the RB25DET....
I'd be looking for 450whp-ish...... 
will the 25 do that? with what sort of mods? 
Is the parts availability any better with that motor?

Thanks y'all.


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## Shadao (Aug 14, 2007)

well the RB25DET can easily do 450whp, however it isnt matted to an AWD transmission... there are also not as many parts for them, as the main tuner companies focus on the RB26...

if you go with the RB25 you will eventually want to get the RB26 becaise of its much better capability...

also the RB26 internal components are good for 500hp where as the RB25's are good to about 375hp

if you get the RB26 you will be very happy...


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## rasonline (Sep 30, 2005)

Don't bother wtih the HICAS 4 WHEEL steering as we all take them out eventually.

sOME OF THE earlier comments are not entirely accurate. Early GTR engines were BETTER than the R33 or R34. They had problems with the oil pumps. The blocks were actually stronger, and so was the quality of the castings (eg. on the throttle bodies).

The early versions' (1990 to 1994) oil pump drive was a bit short where it meets the crank and used to wear down very rapidly. An oilpump collar will sort the problem out no problem. You would also be well off with an uprated oilpump - i would recommend the Tomei unit (Jun and HKS being the other majors).

In order to rev over 8,000rpm reliably you will need a crank damper.

If you going to rev up that high you will need upmarket conrods. If not, then the stock conrods are known to break down the bearings at high rpms.

RB30 is a good mod to do - check out R.I.P.S. in new Zealand. Do a google search. They build 10second daily driven road cars RB30 with RB26 head, etc.


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