# 87 hb z24i jerking at high rpm



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

I just bought this thing and i really like the truck but it has me puzzled
it starts and runs fine has pretty decent power for having 187k miles
it's a 5spd manual with the z24 fuel injected in every gear just as it starts to wind up good it starts jerking and jumping. I have replaced about every vacum line i can find and tune up, plugs,rotor, cap, wires, and air filter.
can anyone help? please!!


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

check secondary coil for spark...


i have them for sale as well..


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

yeah i pulled each coil while idle one at a time and they both spark.
From some of the other questions and answers on here it looks like you and some others have said it could be the TPS or a bad connection or a bad ground.
I'm going to check that stuff tomorrow.
all info is greatly appreciated though


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you have to check the coil for spark at the rpm it is cutting out...


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> you have to check the coil for spark at the rpm it is cutting out...


ok I run the idle up to where it cuts out pulled intake coil wire
sparks great, pulled exhaust side and quits sparking at that rpm.
so I tried swithing coils because they look the same.
and it still does it on the exhaust side. does this mean a bad 
control mod or you still say it's the coil?


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

no ..that is the way they are supposed to work..

time to read the codes..


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> no ..that is the way they are supposed to work..
> 
> time to read the codes..


oky doky ill give it a shot and see what i come up with. 
thanks so much for your help. seems like you know these little truck very well.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

like the back of my .... what is called...jk..


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

ok zan the man. I flash the ecu and it looks like a 43 code and according to the 
code list it's a throttle position sensor. does that sound like that would 
be the one to change?


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

check the tps connections and the wires that go to it..

you can check the screws that hold it in place..

has it been moved from its original position..?


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

Well, I took it to a buddy's house last night who's a mechanic and has lot of diagnostic equip. and the TPS is fine. he had me to start the truck with the throttle opened up to where it cuts out he sprayed carb cleaner in the tbi and it picked up and run great while he was spraying it. checked fuel psi is 36 at idle and 40 when idled up. he checked his software and the 43 code that my ecu is reading out is an injector malfunction. so i'm going to start tracing that.


----------



## killinchy (Sep 1, 2009)

*any luck yet?*

I ask because my Z24i misses like hell at high revs, but only if I suddenly put my foot down. If I ease the speed up very gently (like you're supposed to do) it is OK. I have a feeling it a gas problem as it started after a friend filled her up. 

the ECU........ mine is right under the passenger seat and all I can see is one end of it.

Thanks

John:newbie:


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Try unplugging the vac line to the egr valve and see if it still cuts out. Also, was your distributor rotor OEM? I have seen many after-market rotors short out on these engines.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

killinchy said:


> I ask because my Z24i misses like hell at high revs, but only if I suddenly put my foot down. If I ease the speed up very gently (like you're supposed to do) it is OK. I have a feeling it a gas problem as it started after a friend filled her up.
> 
> the ECU........ mine is right under the passenger seat and all I can see is one end of it.
> 
> ...


I haven't had much time to mess with it lately I just been driving it back and forth to work. Mine runs the same wether I mash the gas fast or gradual.
It's almost like it has a rev limiter and in every gear at the same rpm it starts cuttin out. But I just noticed that someone replied saying to pull the vacum line from the egr. I'm not sure where the egr is on this motor. anyone know? Thanks


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Try unplugging the vac line to the egr valve and see if it still cuts out. Also, was your distributor rotor OEM? I have seen many after-market rotors short out on these engines.


I replaced the rotor in the beginning along with all plugs, wires, and so on.
thinking that i had an electrical issue but when my buddy had the breather off while it was running he run the idle up to where it cuts out and hit it with carb cleaner and it come to life. That's what made him think it's a bad injector.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

remove bat cables for 5 minutes or so and reconnect .. re read codes..


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Your egr valve is on the back of the intake manifold. However, since you said the secondary ignition shuts down at the same point as the engine cuts out, I'm thinking your problem is in the primary ignition system and it is just not noticable while the secondary ignition system is working.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

how about a progress report.....


----------



## killinchy (Sep 1, 2009)

*progress?*

I "read the codes" and got 11. It's the crank angle sensor. My Chilton manual has pictures of the distributor, but nowhere can I see an arrow pointing to a "crank angle sensor". I know what it does, but what does it look like? Is there any way of restoring such a sensor?

Bit hesitant to open up the distributor as I'm used to seeing points and a capacitor. Does anyone know what the unattached connector is for?

http://wwwjohnowen.info/links.html

thanks

John


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

that is a ground ..

the cas is under the plate at the bottom of the dizzy ..

it is actually an optical reader that reads a disc that has 360 open spaces with one of them marked especillay for timing reference..

you may try to clean it but be very careful..

i sell good use dizzies ..

pm me if interested..


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

The crank angle sensor is inside your distributor. What unattached connector?


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

lol.......


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

*still jerking*



zanegrey said:


> how about a progress report.....


I pulled the cables off the batt. re-read the code still flashing 43.
I also pulled the tbi off the intake because it looks like someone tried to silicone
the gasket in the past. I cleaned and replace the mounting gasket 
and it still cuts out at the same rpm.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Your egr valve is on the back of the intake manifold. However, since you said the secondary ignition shuts down at the same point as the engine cuts out, I'm thinking your problem is in the primary ignition system and it is just not noticable while the secondary ignition system is working.


I pulled the vac line from the egr it still does the same.
do you still think im having an ignition problem?
my ecm is flashing a 43 code which is an injector malfunction code.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

43 Throttle Position Sensor.


i think you have a flat spot in the tps..

it is not completely bad but is faulty..

change it out...


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> 43 Throttle Position Sensor.
> 
> 
> i think you have a flat spot in the tps..
> ...


I already tried a new tps. A buddy of mine works for oreilly auto
and he got me one and put it on and it done the same thing.
He checked his automotive computer and it is saying that a 43 code is an injector malfunction. so I think the info on the sticky is either wrong or doesn't pertain to my model. while he had the breather off he ran the throttle up to where it cuts out and sprayed carb cleaner in it and it picked up the rpm's, 
(like it wasn't getting enough fuel). thankfully he works for the parts store and was able to return the tps.


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Try reving the engine to the point that it cuts out and while it is acting up move the harness around on the side of the throttle body where it bends in a loop.

Let me know if it changes anything.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

okay i'll try that 2morrow.


----------



## killinchy (Sep 1, 2009)

Zane Grey: I'm out town for a couple of weeks. When I get back I might well email you for a dizzy. I have to put my beloved HB on the back-burner 'cos I've too much other stuff going on right now.

Sorry I gave a bum link to a picture of my unidentified connector 

I hope this one works

unattached connector


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Try reving the engine to the point that it cuts out and while it is acting up move the harness around on the side of the throttle body where it bends in a loop.
> 
> Let me know if it changes anything.


OK, I cranked it up, reved it up till it cuts out and moved the wire harness around and it didn't change anything.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

Well, anybody got any other ideas to try on this truck?
Or should I just scrap it!!


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Have you tested the injectors yet?


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> Well, anybody got any other ideas to try on this truck?
> Or should I just scrap it!!


I'm going through the same thing with my 86.5. I even found a salvage TB with injectors, TPS and MAF and it didn't fix it. Coming up on my biennial smog test soon and need to fix or dump it.  We've had it since new.

Keep us posted on any progress.


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

saudade, when you say you are going through the same thing, there are two different people on here with two different codes. which one are you refering to as the same as yours? what are your codes?


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> saudade, when you say you are going through the same thing, there are two different people on here with two different codes. which one are you refering to as the same as yours? what are your codes?


Nissmo33. I quoted him in my reply. No codes. Just cutting out around 2500 rpms (have no tach so rpms is a guess).

I have the whole thing documented on another forum. I can post the link in a new thread if that's acceptable or simply copy/paste it. Being a newb here (hopefully not a noob), I wanted to do some more searching first.

Meanwhile, I think I've hijacked this enough for one day. Sorry Nissmo33!


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Have you tested the injectors yet?


I have done the best I know to on how to test them.
My friend with the auto comp. give me a diagnostic print out that walked me through some various test from checking the connection at the ecm to the injectors. and it all seems to check good. I have also checked that they are getting fire to them with a test light and they both do.
But I was going to find a used tbi and slap on it to see if that'll fix it 
thanks to saudade I'm not sure I should. 
It sounds like mine is doing the exact same thing as his.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

I have been wondering if maybe there is any sensor on there that tells the ecm to cut the fuel for any reason. like maybe a bad o2 sensor or somethin?


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> But I was going to find a used tbi and slap on it to see if that'll fix it thanks to saudade I'm not sure I should.
> It sounds like mine is doing the exact same thing as his.


I can't be certain that the MAF, TPS and injectors on the TB I got are OK but I thought it would run differently at least. It doesn't. Other threads I've found name the MAF as the primary suspect. It's rudely expensive. That's why I bent over for the entire TB. If you can find one at a local yard cheap enough, it might be worth it.

What's weird with mine is that, for a while, the problem was intermittent. One day it would cut out, the next run fine. Then maybe a week of cutting out, then a few days running fine. Now, it just cuts out (period!). Been doing this since September.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

saudade said:


> I can't be certain that the MAF, TPS and injectors on the TB I got are OK but I thought it would run differently at least. It doesn't. Other threads I've found name the MAF as the primary suspect. It's rudely expensive. That's why I bent over for the entire TB. If you can find one at a local yard cheap enough, it might be worth it.
> 
> What's weird with mine is that, for a while, the problem was intermittent. One day it would cut out, the next run fine. Then maybe a week of cutting out, then a few days running fine. Now, it just cuts out (period!). Been doing this since September.


Mine has an ecm and I went through the steps that are posted at the front of the HB forum here and it flashes a 43 code everytime. and according to the sticky it is a bad tps. And as i'm sure you already read i found out that's 
not accurate. when my buddy had the breather off after changing the tps and it did the same thing he also checked the fuel pressure at the tbi 
it was 36 psi at idle and about 40 psi when reved up.
so we ruled out a faulty fuel pump. and he sprayed the carb cleaner and was like it came to life. so i just figured it has to be a bad injector.
I'm just puzzled


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> Mine has an ecm and I went through the steps that are posted at the front of the HB forum here and it flashes a 43 code everytime. and according to the sticky it is a bad tps. And as i'm sure you already read i found out that's
> not accurate. when my buddy had the breather off after changing the tps and it did the same thing he also checked the fuel pressure at the tbi
> it was 36 psi at idle and about 40 psi when reved up.
> so we ruled out a faulty fuel pump. and he sprayed the carb cleaner and was like it came to life. so i just figured it has to be a bad injector.
> I'm just puzzled


Yep. Been there done that. Originally, I pulled codes 23 (Idle Switch) & 24 (Throttle Valve Switch) but learned they were not critical and easily cleared.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

saudade.. check the coils...

nismo .. you can check the injectors by pulling the dizzy and with the key on rotate the dizzy and listen for the injectors to click as they fire(so to speek) no click bad injector...


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> saudade.. check the coils...


Been there, done that. Had this exact problem once before. Turned out to be a bad coil (exh I think). That was the first thing I did this time around. I disconnected each coil, rev'd the engine and it still cut out. Bought a new coil anyway and swapped it out (on both sides) and still did it.

FYI, it's on nico where you replied as well.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

my 86.5 was doing this with no codes and it ended being crap in the fuel tank blocking the sock ...


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> my 86.5 was doing this with no codes and it ended being crap in the fuel tank blocking the sock ...


Interesting! I tested the fuel pressure and it's stayed steady at the cutout. I think I'll pull the bed this weekend.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the tank is not to bad to pull by itself..

loosen the fill tube and there are 6 or 7 17 mm bolts that hold it up in there..

but you have to jack it up ion the air..


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> the tank is not to bad to pull by itself..
> 
> loosen the fill tube and there are 6 or 7 17 mm bolts that hold it up in there..
> 
> but you have to jack it up ion the air..


I scoped it out one weekend when I thought the issue was the FP. Seems like it's a even split. Guess it will depend on how much gas is left in it by Saturday. Given that's it's driven by my "poor starving college student son", it's almost always near E.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i hink that it is now know that the more you are starved (given that you are healthy ) the longer you life span is.....


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> i hink that it is now know that the more you are starved (given that you are healthy ) the longer you life span is.....


lol... listening to my son, he'll live forever.....


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

they are introducing a bill that would allow you to keep a son or daughter ,that is in school , on your insurance until 28 years ..

it is now age 25 ..but will increase to 28 if the bill passes...


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> saudade.. check the coils...
> 
> nismo .. you can check the injectors by pulling the dizzy and with the key on rotate the dizzy and listen for the injectors to click as they fire(so to speek) no click bad injector...


hey zane i pulled the dizzy and spun it and it sounds like they are both clicking.
but looking down in the tbi it looks like more fuel is coming
out of one side than the other. 
what now?


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

either check the ijector for continuity and or replace it..


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

How hard is it to replace those injectors? 
I know they are pretty expensive new, but I found them at rock auto remaned
for $32 a peice so I'll prob just replace both if their not to hard to 
change out.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

email me directly and i will send you some pages from my haynes


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> How hard is it to replace those injectors?
> I know they are pretty expensive new, but I found them at rock auto remaned
> for $32 a peice so I'll prob just replace both if their not to hard to
> change out.


Not bad. You have to pull the TB off and "press" the injectors out from below. My "press" was a socket with extension and a few gentle taps with a hammer. However, both injectors connect through a common watertight connector. So you may need to pull the pins and recrimp/solder them. The connector is on a bracket next to the TB. There are two connectors. One comes from the TPS. The other from the FI and some other "gizmo"

If it helps, here's an exploded diagram.


----------



## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Sounds like a FPR/FP problem to me low flow rate....but has pressure!


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

Sorry to keep everyone waiting so long.
I got a reman injector from rock auto, I put it in today on the side that looked like it wasn't spraying as good. put it back together fired it up and still doing the same darn thing. 
What now?


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

Same codes?


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> Same codes?


yeah it's still a 43.


----------



## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

These trucks used to have a problem with a connection in the harness coming loose. It is located inside the section of the harness between the throttle body and the firewall. As I recall it was about half way. The white and red wires would build up corrosion at this connection and sometimes brake. check both red/white wires for voltage at the connector on the throttle body.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> These trucks used to have a problem with a connection in the harness coming loose. It is located inside the section of the harness between the throttle body and the firewall. As I recall it was about half way. The white and red wires would build up corrosion at this connection and sometimes brake. check both red/white wires for voltage at the connector on the throttle body.


ok the only 2 red and white wires i see run somewhere to the bottom of the tps
not to the actual plug connector but something at the bottom.
and there is also a black wire with them and none of them have any juice.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> These trucks used to have a problem with a connection in the harness coming loose. It is located inside the section of the harness between the throttle body and the firewall. As I recall it was about half way. The white and red wires would build up corrosion at this connection and sometimes brake. check both red/white wires for voltage at the connector on the throttle body.


Thanks for this. I now think this is my problem too. I found a schematic on Autozone's site. I too noticed one of my injectors (the inboard one) does not appear to spray out any fuel. I already swapped the entire TB with MAF, TPS and both FIs with no joy. Do you know if one of the injectors is supposed to shut off at higher rpms? I know one of the coils does this.

I'll rip open the harness over the weekend. Not sure what else I can do now.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> ok the only 2 red and white wires i see run somewhere to the bottom of the tps
> not to the actual plug connector but something at the bottom.
> and there is also a black wire with them and none of them have any juice.


The injector connector is next to the TPS on the bracket. Mine has 6 wires. Red, White, Blue, Green and 2 blacks. According the the schematic I found the white and red provide power to each injector (white to one and red to the other) the blue and green ones connect to the ecu. It would seem the red and white should have power to them when the key is on.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

I traced those 2 red wires back to the firewall even though they both have voltage at the tbi but the connector was not corroded. The only wiring problem I have found on mine was down under the seat. One time I pulled the seat to do some diagnosis and i found 2 or 3 wires close to the ecu that looked like something had chewed on them. but i put them back together and it never changed the way it ran.
I can't stand it when it's so hard to find a problem I wish it would just break and be obvious.


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i fell for you buddy . i know it can be very frustraighting..

did u do n e thing to the gas tank...?


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

zanegrey said:


> i fell for you buddy . i know it can be very frustraighting..
> 
> did u do n e thing to the gas tank...?


no not yet i guess i'll try that next.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

So the colors I posted above are on the FI side of the connector. The harness side has 2 white/red wires feeding power. I just checked voltages and at one of them I get full battery voltage (key on, engine off, disconnected from FI) of approx 12.3 V. The other gets nearly a full volt less. The one with less appears to be the inboard side. Maybe getting closer......


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

NissanPartsDept said:


> These trucks used to have a problem with a connection in the harness coming loose. It is located inside the section of the harness between the throttle body and the firewall. As I recall it was about half way. The white and red wires would build up corrosion at this connection and sometimes brake. check both red/white wires for voltage at the connector on the throttle body.


SUCESS!!!! This was right on!! Turns out there is not one but 2 splices in the harness. Two wires splice down to one, then run about 8 inches, then splices back to 2. This is one of the dumbest a$$ things I've seen. The one closest to the inj was completely corroded and and came apart with the slightest tug. Clipped, stripped and crimped, I can run it to the redzone now! Woohoo!!!

I'll post pics later in a new thread once I get done taping everything back together.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

saudade said:


> SUCESS!!!! This was right on!! Turns out there is not one but 2 splices in the harness. Two wires splice down to one, then run about 8 inches, then splices back to 2. This is one of the dumbest a$$ things I've seen. The one closest to the inj was completely corroded and and came apart with the slightest tug. Clipped, stripped and crimped, I can run it to the redzone now! Woohoo!!!
> 
> I'll post pics later in a new thread once I get done taping everything back together.


congaratulation man that's awesome!!!
mine didn't seem to be corroded. but i'm going to do some more tracing.
i really appreciate all of your help!


----------



## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

update us...


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

Sorry guys I wish I had the same luck that saudade did.
I traced the same wires down that he is talking about and my splices were fine. But I went ahead and cut em and respliced em bcause 
with him having the same prob I was sure that would fix mine too, but no luck!
When i get time i'm going to drop the tank and look in it. 
unless you have any new ideas.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

nissmo33 said:


> Sorry guys I wish I had the same luck that saudade did.
> I traced the same wires down that he is talking about and my splices were fine. But I went ahead and cut em and respliced em bcause
> with him having the same prob I was sure that would fix mine too, but no luck!
> When i get time i'm going to drop the tank and look in it.
> unless you have any new ideas.


Hang in there! I chased mine for over 6 months and was ready to put a torch to it. I can't tell you how much time and money I spent on it to discover it took a 5 cent splice terminal to fix. It even passed CA smog testing this morning. 

Maybe we need to retrace steps taken so far and double check.


----------



## nissmo33 (Mar 6, 2010)

Well I was going to keep throwing money at it till i figure it out but i found a great deal on a newer model f150 and now the hb is kinda on the back burner.
I like the little truck but don't really need it, as the f150 gets close to the same fuel mileage with a v8 so i may just let someone else have the headache if i could salvage some of money back out of it.

But i would really like to figure it out in a way.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

I certainly understand. Time comes to cut your losses. 

It would have really pissed me off if I "gave it away" and the new owner was able to fix it for next to nothing (which would have been the case here). It's also been in the family since new so we have a strange emotional attachment to it (well, at least I do).

Let us know what you end up doing.


----------



## Dennis D (May 19, 2010)

I came across this thread while doing a google search for a similar problem that you guys are having. My truck is an 86.5 Nissan Hardbody with the Z24 engine. I've been working on this truck off and on for the past several years trying to figure this problem out, and have gone through great expense replacing several parts to no avail. I, like nissmo33, am about ready to throw in the towel on this truck. I saw this thread and was hoping that maybe someone here can help me figure out the problem. Here's a description of the problem: I can crank the truck and it will idle fine, but when I give it some throttle, it surges up and down, and if you punch the throttle, it cuts out completely, like it's starving for gas. The other night I was flushing the radiator and putting some antifreeze in and left it idling for long periods of time. I got in the truck and gave it some gas and it revved all the way up for the first time since I've owned the truck...it was as if it fixed itself! I got in it and drove it down the road, shifting into all 5 gears. It was running great! I went to crank it back up a few hours later and when I gave it the gas, it tried to die on me, and it wouldn't rev up any at all. I cannot figure out why it would run so good for that little bit and then run so poorly. This has me both extremely perplexed and frustrated...makes absolutely no sense. I tried looking at that wiring harness as was suggested earlier in the thread, but I couldn't find where it was spliced, nor did I see any problem areas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## saudade (Apr 10, 2010)

Dennis, Don't know if you saw my other thread. I added some extra pics to it.

http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/160226-86-5-z24i-engine-cutout-solved.html


----------



## killinchy (Sep 1, 2009)

I've had the engine cutting out if I stomp on the gas pedal, and I've been reading this thread with great interest. I could get up to 110 klics if I was very gentle on the gas pedal and so I was convinced it was the TPS. 

I was so convinced that, for some time, I did not believe the code 11 (crank angle sensor) which appeared. When I did take off the distributor cap... what a mess.... there are two graphite brushes........ One of mine was completely worn away. So was the connector in the rotor. A new cap and rotor and things are fine. 

What did I learn?

BELIEVE THE @$!#@$# CODES


----------

