# Clutch hydraulic problem



## BobThe (Sep 8, 2012)

So I just repurchased my 87 Z31 Turbo. I had sold it 10 years ago and tracked down the owner and bought it back again. Now I am the second and fourth owner of it. It had 120k on it when I sold it and now she has 160k but is still a beauty. I figured I needed a project.

Anyway, after fixing a few other problems with it (water leaking in to the back from the quarter windows, the rust associated with that, changing the fluids and so on), I went to clean the engine this AM since it is now filthy.

I got in the car, pushed down the clutch and fired it up. I went to back it out and the clutch pedal wasn't there... It was stuck on the floor. Hhhhmmm. I got out and pulled the cap off of the clutch fluid reservoir and it was dry (with black crap caked along the inside). I got on the floor and looked under it and now see a puddle right under the front of the trans.

So since I can't get it up on ramps at all to easily now to see where it is coming from, I figured I would ask on here. Is there any rubber hoses or fittings from the master down to the slave, or from the slave to the trans? I am not sure how all of this is connected to know what I should get to replace. I am also curious how accessable it all will be with just a floor jack?

At 160k, I am sure the clutch and related pieces are getting close to failure, but I would like to get this leak fixed until it does.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

There's a hose connecting the slave cylinder on the passenger side which might be cracked. The slave cylinder itself may be leaking. The master cylinder may be leaking. The car needs to be jacked up high enough so that you can get under there. A good 2 1/2 ton floor jack with a lifting height of around 18" will do the job.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's probably the slave or hose, like Rogo suggests. Personally, if I'm going to replace a slave cylinder, esp. on a car that old, I would replace the hose with it, anyway. If the clutch master is original and full of sludge, it probably doesn't have a whole lot of time on it, either, so it would make sense to replace that as well and be done with it!


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## BobThe (Sep 8, 2012)

From what I have been reading, there is a clutch dampener inline between the master and the slave. Should that get replaced as well? As it sits my plan is to jack it up and replace the master, the slave and the hose from the dampener to the slave. The parts look to be cheap enough from AutoZone and AAP (under $50 for all three), but I am not sure what the dampener does to know if it should be replaced while I am at it.


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## BobThe (Sep 8, 2012)

I did see a post that talked about removing the clutch dampener all together by using a 280ZX brake hose between the hard line and the slave. Does that hurt driveability at all? I still don't know what the purpose of the dampener is.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The clutch damper softens the response of the clutch engagement/disengagement. It can definitely be removed, you just need to connect the 2 pieces that lead to and from it, fairly simple mod on most cars. The damper should (or most do that need it) have its own bleeder screw for bleeding the clutch hydraulic system (usually one on the slave cylinder and one on the damper itself. If you do remove the damper the clutch feel will be much stiffer and more responsive, i.e. you will be able to feel more when it engages and disengages.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

No need to replace it unless you want that "direct feel." If you're happy with the stock feel, just leave it.


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## AZ-ZBum (Nov 21, 2004)

Get rid of the damper.

Get a floor jack and get under your car. I have a feeling that it's more than just a small leak. But you're going to actually have to get under the car to look.

Worst case: The clutch fork pivot ball separated and your slave cylinder overextended and popped the piston out releasing all the fluid. 
Good news: Part is only a couple bucks.
Bad news: You have to drop the transmission to replace it.


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## BobThe (Sep 8, 2012)

I got it up in the air using my floor jack and jack stands last night and I think it is the slave the that died. The bottom of the trans is all wet and so was the slave. The dampener looked to be fine. I tried to disconnect the dampener, but the hard line going to it would not move and I did not want to destroy it. Either way, I ordered a new master, slave and hose from AAP. I also ordered a front 280ZX brake hose with the hopes of getting the dampener out of the way since I want to eliminate something else to break in the future and don't want to have to bleed the system from two places. Hopefully getting all of that replaced brings it back to life. Like I said, I think it's the slave just by looking at how horrible and wet it looks

I appreciate all of the replies and I will let you all know how it goes.


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## BobThe (Sep 8, 2012)

Today I replaced the clutch master, the slave, the hose (with a 280zx brake hose) and removed the damper. While I had it in the air, I replaced the front struts with new kyb's and replaced the springs with new eibach's. The clutch is grabbing further back than it did before, but I think I can adjust that back in some from the adjustment on the masterx.

The clutch now works like a charm and is much more responsive. Not sure if that relates to the damper, or the fact that the old pieces and fluid had what could be 160k on them.

Between that and the new struts, she feel like a much happier car.

Thanks to everyone who helped me narrow it down.


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## markaxxx (Sep 20, 2015)

what is the black sludge , i keep replacing the master with new fluid and it turns black


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The black sludge that's in the fluid is an accumulation of dirt, moisture and possible deterioration of internal soft components over the years. Brake fluid should be changed at least every two years. You need to do a thorough flush probably several times to completely clean out the system.


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