# Bleeding the brakes



## Brother_Dave (Jan 26, 2007)

Ok so i just replaced the rear roters on my '85 non turbo. We bled the brakes (all 4) and now my breaks are sluggish. I pumped the brakes 5 or six times, 'till it was firm, then my friend opened the bleeder, closed it, I let go, repeat 20-30 times per wheel. It was stiff when the car was off, but when I turned it on, the pedal goes to the floor. I can pump up the brakes and get the car to stop. but it's not right. Here's my question. we bled the brakes with the car off. Do I need to turn the car on?


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

Brother_Dave said:


> Ok so i just replaced the rear roters on my '85 non turbo. We bled the brakes (all 4) and now my breaks are sluggish. I pumped the brakes 5 or six times, 'till it was firm, then my friend opened the bleeder, closed it, I let go, repeat 20-30 times per wheel. It was stiff when the car was off, but when I turned it on, the pedal goes to the floor. I can pump up the brakes and get the car to stop. but it's not right. Here's my question. we bled the brakes with the car off. Do I need to turn the car on?


Did you bleed it with a clear plastic tube coming from the brake nipple to a empty bottle? Did you see all the bubbles disappear in the clear plastic tube? If you did that I would check the see if you master cylinder is leaking or your slave cylinder.


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## Brother_Dave (Jan 26, 2007)

no just let it shoot out to the ground. so the car does not have to on?????


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

Brother_Dave said:


> no just let it shoot out to the ground. so the car does not have to on?????


Opps, do not turn the car on when bleeding. Home Depot carries the clear plastice tubing.


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## Brother_Dave (Jan 26, 2007)

so I attatch the tube to the bleeder, into an empty jar, and pump up, relase untill I see no bubbles?


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

Brother_Dave said:


> so I attatch the tube to the bleeder, into an empty jar, and pump up, relase untill I see no bubbles?


Correct sir! 

I would also add some brake fuild in the empty bottle so the fuild doesn't get suck back into the caliper.


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## Brother_Dave (Jan 26, 2007)

first of all, let me say thank you. You have been a huge help in this endevour. New questions:
1. am I right in the procedure of pumping up the brakes, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let go of the brakes?
2. is it just coincedence that this happened now, as I was rebuilding a caliper (no its not leaking) and puting rotors on?


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## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Push on the pedal hard, open the bleeder, brake pedal drops the the floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal. Shouldn't matter whether the car is running or not, honestly. I've done it both ways on many makes of cars and trucks and other vehicles. And no, you shouldn't let it just shoot out on the ground, even if nothing else for the sake of your tires and the environment. Brake fluid eats pavement and makes tires dry rot easily. Also removes paint and clearcoat with alarming quickness.


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## Spongerider (Nov 18, 2002)

Zen31ZR said:


> Push on the pedal hard, open the bleeder, brake pedal drops the the floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal. Shouldn't matter whether the car is running or not, honestly. I've done it both ways on many makes of cars and trucks and other vehicles. And no, you shouldn't let it just shoot out on the ground, even if nothing else for the sake of your tires and the environment. Brake fluid eats pavement and makes tires dry rot easily. Also removes paint and clearcoat with alarming quickness.


2nd this.


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## Brother_Dave (Jan 26, 2007)

thanks guys


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