# Another Exxie??? Well, I guess it is! NEW UPDATE!!! (Re brakes)



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

So, I have observed a couple guys on here who have let their X-Trails go, and moved on to other brands. A friend of mine who used to work at a Nissan dealer, and who owns a later model Pathfinder, advised against anything Nissan, suggesting either a Honda CR-V or a Toyota RAV4. Budget, as usual, is a factor with us, and vehicles do cost a bit more here in Alberta. We will be selling hubby's truck to get the funds needed to get a small SUV to replace the Little Silver Bus, which is now over 435K. I had a 1999 RAV4 before I got this, and am looking at the early 2000s when the body style changed. Also, a Honda CR-V would be good, too. The only Nissan I would consider is another X-Trail as we know what they are like, and ASFAIK are the best of the small Nissan SUVs. Too bad Quad lives in La Belle Province or I would have loved to buy his! What do you guys think??


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

I too am selling my X-Trail but live in Quebec.
You can't go wrong with a RAV4. I would choose it over a CR-V. Anything made by Toyota seems to be a good bet. My neighbour is quite high up in the corporation and from talking to him it seems that Toyota has a great deal of pride in what they build. They don't want any lemons to spoil their brands name. We still own a 2006 Pontiac Vibe which is mechanically a Toyota. At nearly 400K there has been zero issues other than maintenance items.
At this point in history I think buying another X-Trail is just looking for trouble. Age and scarcity of parts is going to be an even bigger problem in the coming years.

Calgary RAV4


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

molly said:


> So, I have observed a couple guys on here who have let their X-Trails go, and moved on to other brands. A friend of mine who used to work at a Nissan dealer, and who owns a later model Pathfinder, advised against anything Nissan, suggesting either a Honda CR-V or a Toyota RAV4. Budget, as usual, is a factor with us, and vehicles do cost a bit more here in Alberta. We will be selling hubby's truck to get the funds needed to get a small SUV to replace the Little Silver Bus, which is now over 435K. I had a 1999 RAV4 before I got this, and am looking at the early 2000s when the body style changed. Also, a Honda CR-V would be good, too. The only Nissan I would consider is another X-Trail as we know what they are like, and ASFAIK are the best of the small Nissan SUVs. Too bad Quad lives in La Belle Province or I would have loved to buy his! What do you guys think??


Hi Molly! I own a 06 Xtrail that i bought in 2015 and so far my truck has been very good for reliability and as daily driver. But i did spend a few thousand dollars in upgrade parts that and fluids in that 5 years ( some were things like oxygen sensors, cam/crankshaft sensors, rear differential fluids, sparkplugs, filters, tranny fluid, new muffler pipe, shop repair for a strange electrical issue, . Others were things that were not exactly necessary such as upgraded tires, window tint , seat covers, upgraded stereo, alarm, LED light bulbs everywhere....) But overall, for 5 years , if we take away the ''toys'' i added, pretty good repair and reliability record. But my truck now 14 years old. AS you know the Xtrails are not as popular or seen on the roads as the honda crvs and toyota rav4s . So parts and such tend to be more expensive or harder to track down/limited options. Keep in mind, if we get into an accident with our Xtrails, pretty good chance the insurance company will write off the truck versus paying to get it fixed. So all things considered, i will keep my truck for the next few years as long as it does not suddenly become a money pit . What i would get as a replacement are these vehicles : Honda Crv, Mitsubishi Outlander or the RVR, the 09-14 Subaru Forester non-turbo, a 2007 toyota highlander V6. I would definitely lean towards a 2010 to 2014 mitsubishi outlander GT awd with the 3.0L V6. Very reliable, 6 speed automatic (no cvt), 220 hp v6 engine and a very good lockable awd system. The smaller mitsu RVR has the optional 2.4L /4cyl with 168 hp and little less rear cargo space in the rear hatch but it's a great little awd trucklet. A friend of mine owns all three mitsubishis , the 4 cyl and 6 cylinder outlander and the rvr for the past 7 years and has had ZERO problems. Google those vehicles for starters and read up on the reliability , comfort, mpg, safety andthe owner reviews...i think you see why i'm partial to them.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks! I have wondered about the Mitsubishis, and not just because it is a fun word to pronounce! We would have to buy older models, though, as our budget will be quite low. Ideally, between 3500-4500, depending on what we get for the truck. That would allow for possible winter tires, etc. We love the good gas mileage we have been getting, so will likely keep to a 4 cylinder for that reason. 
I get what you both are saying about the scarcity of parts in the future.... that said, I have seen some nice ones for sale here. Most have too many kms on though...I bought mine with 286K! The low km ones are definitely costlier!


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

i'm pretty sure you can locate a lot of nice older Mitsubishi Outlanders with a 4 cyl., awd, auto. They will be closer or over 180,000 klm mark tho. So keep in mind you want to buy a well taken care of used vehicle BUT since it will be over a decade old, things break and need replacing. Don't mind me when i mention the V6 models. I like my power and speed and for me a small V6 with 220-230 HP in the Outlander would be nice upgrade. But i would consider the 4 cylinder in the outlander. Actually, the mitsu outlander 4 cylinder is very comparable to our 4 cylinder Xtrail. Similar hp, mpg and engine displacement. The thing i read about past and present Outlanders is that they are well built sturdy vehicles but also they are not heavy little pigs....so the 166 horsepower engine is a decent fit and you will get pretty good mpg on regular gas. 

Base *Engine* Size:2.4 L*Cylinders*:Inline *4**Horsepower*:166 *hp* @ 6000 rpmTorque:162 ft-lbs. @ 4200 rpm
Another used vehicle to consider that will most likely be cheaper to purchase is an older Hyundai Santa Fe or Hyundai Tuscon. There are other older used Hyundai and Kia suvs with 4 & 6 cylinder engines, awd, auto that are dependable and well built. Keep in mind, you need to do your research on the older hyundais. tHEY ARE VERY GOOD VEHICLES THE PAST 5-6 YEARS, but 10-13 years ago they were average compared to toyota, honda and even nissan. 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander | Cars & Trucks | Edmonton | Kijiji


----------



## White wolf (May 2, 2020)

Hi everyone I Owen a Nissan x-trail 2005 and a Honda CR-V 2000 both are standard 5 speeds and awd. I find the xtrail a lot cheeper to run as a every day driver. To me the xtrail just glides in the road and when you put it neutral you can feel the difference in the drag of the wheels. The crv that I own is a mechanical engaged rear end so you don’t have the opportunity to turn off the awd. But on the xtrail you have the opportunity to drive with just the front wheels. I live in Australia and both truck are just as good as a land rover defender 110 on the road only both the Nissan and Honda can do light off-road duty’s for me the xtrail is slightly bigger and better on the motorway and both are very good in the snow and ice. But here in Victoria you need to travel to the mountains in winter to play in the snow. So both Honda and Nissan are grate but I rather the Nissan


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks, Wolf.... always good to read comparisons. We would get another X-Trail but they are getting rare and the good ones get snapped up right away. Plus with this Covid-19 crap, I think some people just aren't selling.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

oh i forgot to mention one used american awd suv that altho not as good as a japanese suv, gets the job done, fairly reliable and easy to find parts/service, has a 2.5L four cylinder with 170HP and a nice little box depending on what trim level you buy : the Ford Escape. Again, i would prefer the small 3.0L V6 option, but that comes with a thirstier gas consumption and generally higher used prices. Check out Autotrader and maybe look for a decent, used 2010 Escape awd with automatic, 4 cylinder. You might want to get a line of credit from the Bank if possible and spend $2-3,000 more then intended. Buying another used, hi







gh mileage, ten plus year old vehicle at $3500-5,000 might just be trading for one old problem for another. Good luck just the same.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Some of the Ford Escapes were the same as the Mazda Tributes, weren't they? Most do seem to be the 6 cylinder. I have also noticed a couple Suzuki Grand Vitaras that used to be on the same platform as the Chevy Tracker... so parts may be easier to get. Hopefully, I can get mine diagnosed and dealt with quickly as it will be difficult to find a new one if I can't drive anywhere. I refuse to spend a bunch of money to fix it if that is what it takes. I'll rent a car for a few days and just sell it as is.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

I added up all the receipts for my Nissan, for fun. Bought it for 4250. about 5 1/2 years ago. Spent about $7620. on it for repairs and replacements, not including oil changes, seasonal tire swaps and a couple maintenance services. This worked out to about $220.00 a month to own the car. And, we were using dealers for servicing for the first year and a half, before we found the cheaper and more honest guys. Is that a reasonable cost? It had 286K when I bought it, and now it is getting close to 436K.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Your math doesn't work for me. I get $115 per month ($7620 divided by 66 months) and $180 per month ($11870 divided by 66) if you include the price of the car.
The purchase price was very high compared to here but other than that it sounds very reasonable.
The Suzuki is a very good car. They built them for Chevy. My sister has a Grand Vitara V6 and it's a fantastic car. Very reliable.
The Escape and Tribute are rust buckets. Inside the rear doors at the rear wheel arch especially. Here in the East anyways.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

You are right!! That sounds even better! Thanks for your input; Alberta puts a lot of salt on the roads here so may be the same rust issues...


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

molly said:


> Some of the Ford Escapes were the same as the Mazda Tributes, weren't they? Most do seem to be the 6 cylinder. I have also noticed a couple Suzuki Grand Vitaras that used to be on the same platform as the Chevy Tracker... so parts may be easier to get. Hopefully, I can get mine diagnosed and dealt with quickly as it will be difficult to find a new one if I can't drive anywhere. I refuse to spend a bunch of money to fix it if that is what it takes. I'll rent a car for a few days and just sell it as is.


Mazda Tribute was just an Escape with a few outside trim differences such as the front grill and maybe fog lights. Minor stuff. Interior trim was just a few things such as stereo trim surround, diff leather on the seats.....it's really the same vehicle. There were tons of 4 cylinder Escapes, easy to find a used 4 cyl. Escape. The Grand Vitara in V6 was very nice, i had considered trading in my then 3 year old honda civic Si on a then new '07 V6 Vitara. Keep in mind the vitara V6 is not overly powerful and the fuel economy sucks for a small V6 and not much oomph for a V6. The ford escape will be much easier to find used/new/aftermarket parts and cheaper to service, altho the Suzuki being japanese and a well built Suzuki trucklet with a very good 4x4 system , will be possibly more reliable then a Ford.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

X-hale said:


> Your math doesn't work for me. I get $115 per month ($7620 divided by 66 months) and $180 per month ($11870 divided by 66) if you include the price of the car.
> The purchase price was very high compared to here but other than that it sounds very reasonable.
> The Suzuki is a very good car. They built them for Chevy. My sister has a Grand Vitara V6 and it's a fantastic car. Very reliable.
> The Escape and Tribute are rust buckets. Inside the rear doors at the rear wheel arch especially. Here in the East anyways.


that is one thing i noticed with ''back East'' vehicles , lotsa rust. I'm in Vancouver with tons of winter rains and yet we do not get the severe rusty vehicles. Probably because it rarely snows in my city and that means very tiny amount of road salt per winter driving season. Maybe that is why our used BC vehicles tend to fetch higher resale prices? I bought my 06 Xtrail with the typical small , surface rusty area at the left rear wheel arch and at first i was worried it would corrode like crazy. It has not spread, looks exactly the same 5 years after i bought the truck. That will be my next bored with time to kill during the pandemic....rust repair!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

New and Used vehicles for sale in Fort Macleod, AB | Prairie Automotive Sales


We offer a large variety of new and used vehicles here at Prairie Automotive Sales. Find your next vehicle with us by clicking here to see our latest brand-new inventory.




www.prairieautomotive.ca





I have not been wanting a car-style SUV, but wondered if anyone has any experience with this type? Is the Turbo a potential problem? I am tall so usually dislike the feeling of lowering myself down into a vehicle! I see lots of these have head gasket problems, too, which I imagine would be very costly to repair, unless they can prove itv has been done already...


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

That is a Generation 3 Outback, by far the best looking ones they ever made. We have had two 1997 and a 2012 Outback. By 2008 most of the head gasket problems had been ironed out. Also with the 2.5 engine it is not a turbo. The turbo is a 2.0 and called an Outback XT. With 125 K on it I would say that it's an excellent buy in Alberta dollars.
It is due for a timing belt replacement if it has not been done yet. Do the pulleys, tensioner and water pump at the same time. It's an interference engine. If the belt breaks kiss your valves goodbye.
It's not as roomy as an X-Trail for cargo but it has a lot of room with the rear seats folded down. We had a full glass shower enclosure in the back of our 2012 and a huge soaker bath tub on another occasion.
They handle much better than the X-Trail and have the same power. Same size engine with the same HP.
The HVAC system is far superior and the doors don't freeze in the winter.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks, X-Hale... How do you find them for rougher travel, i.e. gravel roads with a few potholes, ruts, etc. They look kinda low.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

They are great on back roads. We have plenty around here. They have 8 1/2 inches of ground clearance, similar to many small trucks. The Subaru AWD system is one of the best.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

If it is still there Saturday, we will go and see it. Only half an hour away... I guess it has miles, not kms on the speedometer so it is 190K km.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

That's not too bad but getting up there.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

i forgot to mention another used Japanese suv for Molly to consider, but keep in mind it may not be in your price range ( $4,000-5,000?). A used Honda Element. A 2.4-liter four-cylinder with 166 horsepower and 161 pound-feet of torque propels LX, EX, and SC trim levels. Front wheel or 4WD. I see lots of used Elements for sale on Autotrader.ca. But even a 2008-11 in good condition is from $9800-14,000. IF i myself were to come up with $10,000 or more, i think i'd prefer an 2010-11 honda element 4wd with manual tranny ( if no manual, the 5 speed auto with 4wd). Funny,kinda disliked them when they were knew. But in some upper trims with the right rims/paint they look not bad for a box. I like the practicality of the vehicle, cargo room, the vinyl floor that is easy to wash out with water, the dashboard, seats. ''Only'' 166 HP, which is the same as the Xtrail, but with a 5 speed manual it could be Honda fun to drive. But they sell for a much higher price point...you get what you pay for, eh? 2011 Honda Element for sale | autoTRADER.ca https://tdrpmimages.azureedge.net/p...429e-9758-4df3-85cc-5c145a64b0f1.jpg-1024x786


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

tonyvancity said:


> i forgot to mention another used Japanese suv for Molly to consider, but keep in mind it may not be in your price range ( $4,000-5,000?). A used Honda Element. A 2.4-liter four-cylinder with 166 horsepower and 161 pound-feet of torque propels LX, EX, and SC trim levels. Front wheel or 4WD. I see lots of used Elements for sale on Autotrader.ca. But even a 2008-11 in good condition is from $9800-14,000. IF i myself were to come up with $10,000 or more, i think i'd prefer an 2010-11 honda element 4wd with manual tranny ( if no manual, the 5 speed auto with 4wd). Funny,kinda disliked them when they were knew. But in some upper trims with the right rims/paint they look not bad for a box. I like the practicality of the vehicle, cargo room, the vinyl floor that is easy to wash out with water, the dashboard, seats. ''Only'' 166 HP, which is the same as the Xtrail, but with a 5 speed manual it could be Honda fun to drive. But they sell for a much higher price point...you get what you pay for, eh? 2011 Honda Element for sale | autoTRADER.ca


Ya, a box is right! Nissan has one like that too, a Cube or something?  Thanks for the tip, though. I shudder to think what it would be like with the 100km crosswinds we can get down here as it is so boxy and not very heavy. I know I shouldn't be thinking of a Pathfinder as it has 6 cylinders, etc., but I just saw a fabulous top of the line one for just under $5K in Lethbridge and am sorely tempted to go and look at it this weekend, although it may not last long at that price...


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

before you write off the Honda Element entirely, read up on a few automotive reviews and check out some of the photos. And yes, the Element is boxy and may be impacted by crosswinds. But a lot of suvs are. I do not think you will be driving thru hurricanes , lol, so it might not be so horrendous if the vehicle is the right combination of style/performance and versatility. But if you think it's too boxy and goofy, oh well, to each their own. Just showing you options  2009 Honda Element SC Review Editor's Review | Car Reviews | Auto123


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Hey, I appreciate all suggestions, Tony!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

tonyvancity said:


> oh i forgot to mention one used american awd suv that altho not as good as a japanese suv, gets the job done, fairly reliable and easy to find parts/service, has a 2.5L four cylinder with 170HP and a nice little box depending on what trim level you buy : the Ford Escape. Again, i would prefer the small 3.0L V6 option, but that comes with a thirstier gas consumption and generally higher used prices. Check out Autotrader and maybe look for a decent, used 2010 Escape awd with automatic, 4 cylinder. You might want to get a line of credit from the Bank if possible and spend $2-3,000 more then intended. Buying another used, high mileage, ten plus year old vehicle at $3500-5,000 might just be trading for one old problem for another. Good luck just the same.


This was suggested to me by another guy, who loves his 2010, and my girlfriend, who has a 2011. She does not put many miles on hers, though. The two mechanics I use do not like Ford products in general, haha! But once I started looking at them, there are a lot out there for sale, mostly in the 2005-2008 range. Decent Exxies that have lower kms are very rare right now, too. Looks like a lot of folks are selling because they need cash or no longer need two vehicles due to losing jobs. 😢


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

Molly, you mentioned you had a toyota Rav4 previously. If you can afford a good used one maybe time to go back to a Rav4 again. My logic is that they are super reliable, good on gas, easy to maintain, parts and service fairly simple and easy access. Spend a few thousand dollars more for a decent used awd , 4 cyl., rav4 and you may end up saving that extra money by not going thru headaches and excessive repairs/parts for something not so reliable. And again, deeply consider a used mitsubishi Outlander. A friend of mine bought two outlanders on my suggestion, one is a 2019 that he gave to his daughter for her high school grad gift. He kept the v6 awd 2007 Outlander for his own personal vehicle. And he bought a 2014 Mitsubishi RVR when new and still has that in his family. We chat every day and he never once had any mechanical or other issues with all three of these vehicles.  I'm pretty confident in the next few years i too will buy a used Outlander....but i really want the V6 awd GT. Maybe in the $7,000 to $10,000 range if i go for a 2010 version. I do not want to go too old with too much mileage as i want to avoid wear and tear costs


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks, Tony! I have been doing lots of research and have been considering the Kia Sorento, and the Suzuki Grand Vitara (mid 2000s), as both seem to have decent reviews and both have real 4x4 capability which may come in handy once in a while on some of the roads we go on. There is a nice Kia in Lethbridge. I have been a bit worried about Subarus although impressed with videos of their traction, as there is that head gasket thing. It is hard to find ones available that have any records of it being fixed, and it sure looks like an expensive fix! RAV4s are a definite option, too, but prefer nothing older than 2004 as the hp is so low. My 99 was cute but totally gutless trying to pass anything! Lot of sellers seem to not have any records at all, and tell you to buy a CarFax, which is costly and only shows certain things. AMA provides reports for about half the cost. But again, only certain shops report their services. And I will not even go and look at anything where they cannot be bothered to wash the car and clean the interior; I don't want to clean other people's crap, yuk. 
Update: Had planned to see a couple Sorentos today and after more reading, decided not to, as too many said the fuel economy was not great. Going to focus on finding a 4 cylinder.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

If you see a car ad where the car is dirty and there's garbage all over the floor and junk on the seats, you think "Wow, I wonder if they ever even change the oil if they're that lazy."


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

X-hale said:


> If you see a car ad where the car is dirty and there's garbage all over the floor and junk on the seats, you think "Wow, I wonder if they ever even change the oil if they're that lazy."


No kidding!! Then they ask a bunch of money for it, too...


----------



## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

I would go for another xtrail (5 speed manual) if the occasion presents itself. The good condition of the car would be primarily considered. 

Suzuki left Canada a few years ago. I would search forums discussions on parts availability and repairs.
We have the chance that nissan shares many components with other nissans models but Suzuki is another story. I heard that Suzuki can provide parts up to 10 years after leaving canada but how long would it take to get those parts?


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

No manual for me, and do not want to learn at this point either!  I am thinking Suzuki may not be ideal for the reason you mentioned. Decent X-Trails are rare here, though, unless you really want to pay a lot (latest nice one was asking 8700, and I think he got an offer already!) or get one with over 250K kms. Leery of Subarus unless it can be proven the head gaskets have been repaired... Not in a panic but I'll be glad when I have sold mine before something else goes wrong! Hoping to find something closer to home as my hubby is 86 and has not driven in Calgary traffic for over ten years, and the idea of him driving our X-Trail out of there makes me very nervous , and sadly most vehicles for sale are in Calgary. But something will turn up.I even put a wanted ad on Kijiji....


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi All. What is not clear hear is the why replace it? Think I saw something about it needing a new rear bearing, but otherwise, its unclear what the issues are. Personally I would not trade a high mileage X trail for an equally old or older Ford Escape. The X over the years does go through suspension components, but its been pretty rare to read about engine or transmission failures, major electronic faults, ac system going bad, or other stuff that costs 1000s to repair.
From what I have seen at the junkyards on a few of them is rust getting the better of the front subframe--dealer only part here that costs over 800 + install. And of course, such X trails also have lots of surface rust making its appearance.
It might be an idea to have the X given a complete safety inspection. That way you can know what is bad, what is going bad, and some general idea of cost and whether it's worth fixing.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Hey Quad! Thanks for weighing in...Actually, we have pretty much decided against the Escape, given that the two mechanics we use both advised against one. You do make a good suggestion, about paying for a safety. It has become obvious that the suspension is needing work, as it has gotten increasingly harsh over rougher roads. Various other rattles and squeaks likely due to the high kms. I guess, given that we sold the truck to free up some cash, that we thought it best to sell it while it was salable. Our one guy has a couple people looking for a little cheap SUV and wanted us to call him as soon as we had another one. Our top choices are a Honda CR-V or a RAV4, or another Exxie, which are harder to find.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Glad to chime in. Have it checked. If the body integrity is good, engine and transmission running fine replacing stuff like control arms and struts will make it seem like a new car.
For argument sakes-- right now you can get both side quality Moog front control arms on clearance at RockAuto for 86.18 Cdn each plus delivery. 170 for both sides is a killer deal.


More Information for MOOG RK621726


.
Changing those if yours are old will improve the handling of the car, and your mechanic would probably install them for 150. Replacing all the struts, and rear suspension arms would run about another 600 in parts, 3-4 hours labor + an alignment would pretty much have it handling like new, and probably better than you ever experienced since you have owned it. But of course, it depends on the state of your X whether you invest in it or not.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Glad to chime in. Have it checked. If the body integrity is good, engine and transmission running fine replacing stuff like control arms and struts will make it seem like a new car.
> For argument sakes-- right now you can get both side quality Moog front control arms on clearance at RockAuto for 86.18 Cdn each plus delivery. 170 for both sides is a killer deal.
> 
> 
> ...


Have you or other Xtrail members replaced any of the suspension bushings ? i know it can be costly to have done at a Shop ( the parts, labour, taxes in) but i have read about how much nicer a vehicle rides and handles after the bushings are replaced with a good quality set. Any thoughts.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

OK. Got an appointment at a good shop here in town for Thursday morning. Stay tuned for the results!


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Tony, I never ordered a poly bushing kit if that is what you are referring to. What I did on mine was replace all of the rear suspension arms, and that way renewed all of the bushings except for two. Back in the day each arm (6 in back) was $100 from the dealer. You can now buy aftermarket for approx 30 a rear arm. It did ride and handle nicer after that was done.
And Molly, I am glad you are getting the inspection. I suspect the X might be in better shape than you suspect and here is to hoping it does not require much to restore confidence in its handling, and the integrity of its body. Good luck.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Tony, I never ordered a poly bushing kit if that is what you are referring to. What I did on mine was replace all of the rear suspension arms, and that way renewed all of the bushings except for two. Back in the day each arm (6 in back) was $100 from the dealer. You can now buy aftermarket for approx 30 a rear arm. It did ride and handle nicer after that was done.
> And Molly, I am glad you are getting the inspection. I suspect the X might be in better shape than you suspect and here is to hoping it does not require much to restore confidence in its handling, and the integrity of its body. Good luck.





quadraria10 said:


> Hi Tony, I never ordered a poly bushing kit if that is what you are referring to. What I did on mine was replace all of the rear suspension arms, and that way renewed all of the bushings except for two. Back in the day each arm (6 in back) was $100 from the dealer. You can now buy aftermarket for approx 30 a rear arm. It did ride and handle nicer after that was done.
> And Molly, I am glad you are getting the inspection. I suspect the X might be in better shape than you suspect and here is to hoping it does not require much to restore confidence in its handling, and the integrity of its body. Good luck.


So do you mean that when you get the rear suspension arms, those arms come with the new bushings? or does the shop tell you that you have to pay extra at the time and get the new bushings on top of the new arms?


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

4 of the rear arms have 2 bushings each, and the two trailing arms one each. They come installed with the parts. If you buy a kit they have to remove each arm and remove the bushings and their sleeves, and press in the new ones


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Well, the rear left brake pad was really worn, which was odd as I had the rotors and pads done last June. This shop suspected no lubrication was applied. So I had to redo the pads to pass the safety and that was it! They gave me a deal (I think) and charged $205.00 to do it with pads they had on hand. I guess they were impressed how good the Little Silver Bus looked for its high mileage, and no suspension issues, either. Tightened up the loose heat shield as I mentioned some rattle was annoying me. These guys are pretty good; I think I will use them for more stuff now, and not bother with the young cheaper guy anymore. Anyway, on with the search...


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Excellent. Now you know it's safe and you're good for a while.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Glad to hear there were no big issues. Even replacing that rear caliper that is sticking is not that expensive, and it might only be the boots and pins needing replacement. As X-Hale said it takes the pressure off in looking for a replacement and frankly should make you willing to invest in the X a bit longer. Bonne chance with it.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

molly said:


> Well, the rear left brake pad was really worn, which was odd as I had the rotors and pads done last June. This shop suspected no lubrication was applied. So I had to redo the pads to pass the safety and that was it! They gave me a deal (I think) and charged $205.00 to do it with pads they had on hand. I guess they were impressed how good the Little Silver Bus looked for its high mileage, and no suspension issues, either. Tightened up the loose heat shield as I mentioned some rattle was annoying me. These guys are pretty good; I think I will use them for more stuff now, and not bother with the young cheaper guy anymore. Anyway, on with the search...


ah good news for you. It's always good to have a few mechanic shops and be on good terms with the mechanics and not put ALL your trust in one shop/one mechanic just because ''i trust them/they always been good to me''. There are numerous reasons for this. Sometimes you have a shop/mechanic with a rigid, cocky, know it all attitude and set in their ways . Sometimes you get the inexperienced mechanics or ones with personal problems/dug-alcohol issues. One big reason too is when you think you found that ''perfect shop/great mechanic'' and put all your trust into them , invest your time and money with them, they can gain your confidence and rip you off by padding the bill or doing unnecessary work/parts replacements on your vehicle or not even really doing the work they got paid for. It does happen.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Soooo....After hours of endless scrolling through Kijiji and Facebook and Autotrader, a guy emailed me last night in response to our ad looking for an X-Trail. He was just about to list a 2006 Bonavista model with 211K on it. Original owner, regular trips to the dealer, service records, two sets of tires on rims (Pirelli all seasons and Michelin Ice winters), was going to list it at $5K, but as his mechanic told him it would need a brake job down the road, he asked for $4K firm and even offered to meet us half way, saving us a bunch of driving. I had actually passed on a few good ones in Calgary as my hubby has not driven in big city horrible traffic for years and it was a concern! This was a very nice couple ( I googled him and he builds tiny houses), and we felt pretty good about the whole thing. It is the same color as ours (silver)!! But garaged so in much better shape than ours was, and 75K fewer kms. So, I will still be hanging around here for awhile yet, fellas!


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

ahhhhhh lo0ks good. Congrats.....you do need a windshield. When you get it replaced, ask for a ''SHADED wndshield'' . I had the plain factory tinted windshield and after a year ( i'm an autoglass installer ) i asked my insurance company if okay to install a shaded band windshield. Sometimes there is no cost or very little cost difference. But what a nice difference to have the green or blue shaded band at the top. Congrats on the truck.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Very nice! It even has roof rails.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

There is some basis to the old adage ''go with what you know''. Congrats. I just don't get the only 75K less mileage. I thought your original was up to 435,000km, so the difference should be 220,000? Anyway, I hope you can maximize what you can sell the original for with its recent safety inspection pass. The Bonavista's have a good set of features.
Does it actually need a windshield? I can't tell from the pics.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

tonyvancity said:


> ahhhhhh lo0ks good. Congrats.....you do need a windshield. When you get it replaced, ask for a ''SHADED wndshield'' . I had the plain factory tinted windshield and after a year ( i'm an autoglass installer ) i asked my insurance company if okay to install a shaded band windshield. Sometimes there is no cost or very little cost difference. But what a nice difference to have the green or blue shaded band at the top. Congrats on the truck.


Thanks for the tip on the glass!


X-hale said:


> Very nice! It even has roof rails.


Ya! My old one just had rails, and came with ugly racks which we sold...This one came with some rack extensions for skis and canoes, which I doubt we will use.


quadraria10 said:


> There is some basis to the old adage ''go with what you know''. Congrats. I just don't get the only 75K less mileage. I thought your original was up to 435,000km, so the difference should be 220,000? Anyway, I hope you can maximize what you can sell the original for with its recent safety inspection pass. The Bonavista's have a good set of features.
> Does it actually need a windshield? I can't tell from the pics.


I meant 75K less than the kms on our first one when we bought it (286K), but ya, half the kms of what we have now, haha! The shop that did the safety on ours suggested listing it at 1500, and thought I could get 1200. One of our mechanics keeps reminding me to call him when we are ready to sell, so hopefully he has someone in mind.
Yes, this one needs a windshield, which he mentioned before we met. The crack is just high enough to cause glare in my eyes. But we will get that replaced asap. This one seems peppier! Anyway, I will have fun going through it and finding out what it needs, and what they "forgot" to mention. He did say that the rear wiper had a problem, which appears to be a missing fluid nozzle; you can hear the pump go but nothing comes out. Had a similar issue on the last one. A very thorough safety was done for this, thankfully, and he said to call the dealer and get the service history sent over as he did not save every single invoice. Looks like he also used a couple other local shops for repairs. It has a very new battery, too!


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

oh hey Molly, another glass replacement tip: When you get the windshield replaced, ask for the technician to look for PINCHWELD RUST. ....pinchweld is the metal frame that the windshield sits ontop of the urethane glue. Often the pinchweld develops rusty holes and will spread like cancer to other areas. If you get an infuriating moldy mildew smell, condensation or water drip from inside, chaNCES are you have a rusty pinchweld with perforations. This would be the ideal time to get either your glass technician to sand down the rust, add a pinchweld rust primer ( and /or body filler) or bring your Xtrail to an approved body shop that has a dedicated Auto glass technician do it all in their bodyshop. The autoglass shop may charge very little to nothing depending on the rust severity, the bodyshop manager tho may have to mark up his/her costs for service and materials. But well worth it. I replaced my own windshield 4-5 years ago. I noticed i had some minor rusty looking surfaces near the top of windshield area before i started. Sure enough, i remove my old windshield and remove the old urethane glue....under neath was surface rust along the entire pinchweld. So i took a drill with wire wheel and removed as much rust, added pinchweld primer , sadded another coat, let it dry for 2 hours. Then put the black urethane windshield primer ( bonding agent/rust inhibitor) and applied the new urethane glue / installed my new windshield. My glass has never leaked since i replaced it. I did have a minor drip from my head liner area above the rear view mirror 3 years ago. I traced that down to the roof mounted external antenna base. Easy fix.....removed the external antenna ( hidden bolt under a cap on the headliner, pry off gently the antenna base) cleaned the roof mounting surface area, i used a bit of Dap Ultra Quick Seal i had a 1/3rd tube in my tool shed, remounted and no more leaks! Anyways, ask to have a look at the condition of your pinchweld to see if rust repair is needed and also ask if your glass replacement includes a brand new windshield moulding...i highly recommend a new w/shield moulding so it finishes off the replacement and no further cosmetic problems later.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks for the window tips, Tony. Looks like the guy we chose always replaces the molding, but he cannot get tinted glass. That is OK, though. He didn't even want our credit card number to order it...small town life! 
On another note, I went through the small pile of maintenance receipts this morning and also went through the apparently thorough inspection it came with, highlighting the urgent matters and the less critical issues, so I could call the mechanic who did it and ask him to explain a few things. We had experienced a sort of clunky sound in the rear going over bumps yesterday which we did not notice when we test drove it as it was full of winter tires rolling around, clunking. The guy was very nice and explained various things and said he did not notice any clunking. So, I take it to our new favorite local shop, and in five minutes the guy drove it, put it in the air, and told me it was the left rear sway bar bushing. He showed me the problem, and said it was a cheap and fast fix. He also said they would have marked that with an X if they had done the inspection. Next Tuesday, I go in to get that fixed. He will also go over the brakes, rotors and calipers which the inspection said all needed to be replaced. They told me often the calipers do not need replacing, but need to be unstuck, which would save money. A complete brake job would run about $900.00 with their parts, and I am welcome to buy from Rock Auto to possibly save money. According to the inspection, we will also have to clean the battery contacts as they are apparently corroded, and the block heater is probably not working. And he said there may be an engine coolant leak. So it begins...


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

As soon as I read clunking in the rear I said to myself sway bar bushings. I replaced both of mine when I bought the car.
BTW I'm using my X-Trail for a work vehicle this summer. I can't bring myself to load up tools and materials in the Benz. Also the folks on this forum are pleasant even though we are few.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

molly said:


> Thanks for the window tips, Tony. Looks like the guy we chose always replaces the molding, but he cannot get tinted glass. That is OK, though. He didn't even want our credit card number to order it...small town life!
> On another note, I went through the small pile of maintenance receipts this morning and also went through the apparently thorough inspection it came with, highlighting the urgent matters and the less critical issues, so I could call the mechanic who did it and ask him to explain a few things. We had experienced a sort of clunky sound in the rear going over bumps yesterday which we did not notice when we test drove it as it was full of winter tires rolling around, clunking. The guy was very nice and explained various things and said he did not notice any clunking. So, I take it to our new favorite local shop, and in five minutes the guy drove it, put it in the air, and told me it was the left rear sway bar bushing. He showed me the problem, and said it was a cheap and fast fix. He also said they would have marked that with an X if they had done the inspection. Next Tuesday, I go in to get that fixed. He will also go over the brakes, rotors and calipers which the inspection said all needed to be replaced. They told me often the calipers do not need replacing, but need to be unstuck, which would save money. A complete brake job would run about $900.00 with their parts, and I am welcome to buy from Rock Auto to possibly save money. According to the inspection, we will also have to clean the battery contacts as they are apparently corroded, and the block heater is probably not working. And he said there may be an engine coolant leak. So it begins...


Well, lol, it is a used vehicle and somebody sold it for a reason, so chances are you will need to pay to replace a part or two/service something!......we all have been in this used car situation. Sometimes tho you can buy a used vehicle and feel like you struck gold. My brother's cars are a good example. One is a 04 toyota matrix i originally found for my father when he was age 81. That car went to one brother and has been an excellent used car buy with pretty much nothing gone wrong, just tires and fluids, filters and after 13 years it finally needed a new starter. The other brother bought a used 2014 toyota corolla and has had less then one year, so far just puts gas in it and no issues at all. I too have had great success with all the japanese vehicles i have boughten ( i lost count...8? ). I just buy them, routine maintenance , an occasional minor replacement part and then sell the vehicle after 3-4 years from boredom. Best of luck with your latest Xtrail, hopefully problem free and a great vehicle for your needs.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

We had a fun day! We drove to Waterton Park to check things out, about a 40 minute drive....parked at a pullover, and I hear this sort of tocking sound from the left rear. What is it? I go out and hear it coming from the wheel, and the rim is HOT!!!!!!!!!!!! And there is black sooty stuff on it. Then more noises follow, kind of a thrumming sound for a bit. We figured it was cooling off sounds. Unsure of what to do, I called our shop in Pincher Creek( luckily there was cell service). She advised to let it cool and make our way into the park townsite to a small garage whose owners' she knows well. The guys waited till it was safe to handle, and took off the wheel and the caliper was seized. He managed to get it unstuck, applied some WD40, and assured us it should not catch fire or anything, but that new calipers were a must. They didn't even charge us. Sadly, the fix didn't last long and it started getting fairly hot again. Called our shop on the way home (we stopped periodically to let it cool down a bit), and told them just order everything and fix it asap. I fail to understand how the mechanic who did the safety for this vehicle didn't think it was more serious. He told them (and told me) that ya, the brakes and maybe the calipers will need doing in the next few months or so. The safety I had done on our old Ex revealed uneven brake pads in the rear, one down very low, and he wouldn't pass it unless I got it fixed. Guess I am a bit disappointed, and now wonder how accurate the rest of the inspection actually is, haha!!


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

not to be a downer.....think long and hard if you want to continue with this vehicle if it seems it may be a money pit. Not sure how much you paid for it versus how much currently you spending to fix it and the future repairs you were advised will be needing . Hold off putting in a new windshield if you can. Fix them brakes and see how the truck behaves. If you keep getting hammered with more repairs, maybe consider selling it and getting something else ?


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Hey, thanks, Tony. We already ordered the windshield, so no going back on that. And we were advised a future brake job would be in the cards, but it is just that it happened a LOT faster than we expected! I suspect that these folks knew things needed work sooner than they were letting on, but hubby was suggesting they may have had no clue if they don't know shit about repairs. And maybe their mechanic is just not as good as the ones we found down here; seriously, the sway bar bushing and a nearly seized caliper do not just manifest themselves in a couple of days! But I remain hopeful. The proceeds from selling our older one would pay for all these repairs, but we won't sell it until we are sure we can trust this new one! This is why I like this forum... I can rely on you guys.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Is it the caliper that is seizing or the caliper line that is damaged? You may as well order and replace the flexible brake line as well. I had that issue on my rear passenger side. Replacing the caliper did not quite do it. You have me thinking it might be worthwhile for you to harvest some parts you know are good on your old one. If you order from Rock auto and buy something like the Centric rear caliper, you will get most of the price back with a core refund, and a rear brake line is roughly $20. The Delphi rear stabilizer link for 16.62 each or per side is very nice quality and inexpensive.
Another cheap option for the caliper would be Autoshack-- they do not list anything for the X trail anymore but the rear calipers are the same on the first-gen Rogues-- they have new (not rebuilt) calipers for 65 each with no core deposit, but I have no idea if they work well. Of course, if the bad caliper damaged the rotor and brake pads, the price for the job will go up as you will need new rotors and rear brake pads as well. You can do the math, but I think you might consider the option of parting your old one out and then selling it for scrap, but the labor costs might be too expensive. Still, with the windshield it seems you need over 600-700 in parts. I would think if you are only going to get 1K or so for yours, harvesting parts and then selling the remains for scrap might be the way to go.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

We gave the go-ahead to the shop yesterday to order the required parts. The shop in Waterton said the caliper was definitely seized. The inspection showed uneven wear on both sets of pads so they would need doing. I did a quick price check on Rock Auto and came up with about $300.00 in parts, $115.00 shipping and $114.00 core costs. We tried to return the used caliper from our old Ford truck but the shipping cost outweighed any financial benefit. I'll make sure we get some sort of core refund from the new ones. As far as using Old Exxie for parts, I think we prefer to sell it as it will still be useful to someone for some time!

Wondering about how many hours of labour is the norm for all this? I have only had rotors and brake pads done on the other one, not calipers.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Changing the caliper would not add much extra time to a brake job. It could even be less labour because everything is clean and new. Bleeding the brakes may take a bit of time but new brake fluid is a good idea at this point.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Replacing the caliper and flexible brake line will add about 1/2 hour to the brake job. On mine even after I replaced that rear passenger caliper I would still get some brake rub and noise, changing the hose fixed that. It's a common issue on some Nissan's apparently.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Update: Well, it is all fixed. Picked it up yesterday morning (took a couple extra days for parts), and attempted Waterton Park again, this time successfully! The very good news was that upon inspection, the guys realized all four calipers were reparable, saving me a bundle. Apparently, they had just never been serviced. It cost me just over $1050.00 for new brake pads, rotors, sway bar bushings and labour. Pretty happy with this shop, as they do not charge for every little thing and appear to be honest. Funny part is we drove our other one in the meantime, and I heard a periodic squeal from the left rear. As it was getting close to needing an oil change, I left it there yesterday and they found that caliper was just starting to stick, so they fixed it up for free. New glass goes in Monday morning on Exxie #2, and then it will be time to sell the other one. I am quite attached to the Little Silver Bus, and have decided that it is simply being reincarnated in Little Silver Bus 2.0.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Great news. Smooth sailing from here on!


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Glad you got it sorted out. It seems a bit pricey to me for what you had done, but I guess there was more such as reconditioning 4 calipers. For what its worth the issue also affects Subarus. I replaced my driver's side CV axle yesterday and decided to service my front brakes at the same time. I found that the top caliper slide pin on the driver's side was seized. With some effort got it out, cleaned up, and re-lubed. Works fine now but it has worn that side pads unevenly, and there is a fair bit of vibration now when braking going fast. Might even out but I should probably replace the pads. A shame as they are fairly new, and were replaced before I bought it.
FYI-- Parts Avatar a fairly new online site based out of Edmonton has pretty competitive pricing and free delivery with orders over $99. In a first for me, they over $100 cheaper than Rock Auto for the same exact same parts. I got two Mevotech Supreme front control arms for 250.36 including tax and delivery vs 383.32 if I had ordered them from RockAuto. Shopping around still pays off! Good luck with LSB 2.0, and I hope LSB 1 finds a good home.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks for the tip on another parts supplier, Quad. Shopping Canadian during this C19 business may be a safer bet anyway.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

SOLD our LSB 1.0....Listed it yesterday afternoon. Had three lowball offers of $900-1000. First serious buyer came by this morning and paid us $1600.00. I had listed it at $1500 and was going to sell the winter tires separately later, but he was willing to pay a good price if we included them. And...we may see it around town, as he lives in Pincher Creek too!


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Well done. That's good money for a car with that mileage.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well done Molly. Seems pretty fair all around. As for the Canadian parts supplier-- never again. Parts Avatar is a complete joke with the worst customer service I have experienced. Far easier to get a straight answer out of even the worst sellers on Aliexpress. I cannot even begin to express my embarrassment that this company is Canadian. I ordered 11 days ago and nothing has shipped, they do not communicate and they flat out lie when you reach them. I have since done a little research into them and they have a horrible online reputation. There are hundreds of tales of bad experiences. I just want to warn anyone about using them. The savings that can be had on certain parts are just not worth the hassle and uncertainty. Stay away from them they do not deserve your business.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well, the parts were delivered yesterday. Only a few days late, but I was never sent a shipping confirmation or tracking number, and the best their customer service could come with was ''your order has been allocated please be patient''. A very frustrating experience dealing with them. For me to use them again the savings will have to be huge and it will have to be something that I am in no rush to receive and with no time table to install. Which I guess we could say is the case with the front control arms I ordered. Mine passed inspection and work but you can see the cracking in the large bushing, they are the originals and they have 250,000 km on them.
I remember that when I changed those on the X trail, it made the handling even better than what I thought was pretty good. I suspect I will see the same thing on the Forester.
And Molly I saw a beautiful Silver Bonavista yesterday with freshly cleaned headlights and zero rust. I am still partial to the X trail. I wish Nissan had tapped into that heritage to redesign the new X trail/Rogue. I will be curious to see one in person but for some reason, it reminds of a mix of the bloated Fiat 500 SUV and the new RAV.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Sorry to hear about that parts outfit!! Thanks for the warning. I agree the new Rogue and RAV4 are very similar. In fact, it seems that most new models by most companies now are almost interchangeable! It is so unfortunate we can't get the X-Trails here that they can get in Australia, for example. I belong to a couple Nissan X-Trail Facebook groups and there are some really nice ones in other countries!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Further updates: New rear washer nozzle replaced today as well as a test drive to figure out where the rattle is coming from in both front doors. Mechanic said it is coming from the actual door panels and short of replacing them, not much can be done. So, I guess I will have to live with it. It isn't as bad on pavement as on gravel, but still annoying. Sigh. I have a question about gas mileage. Will 17 inch tires (215-60-17) impact fuel economy very much? So far we are getting about 26 mpg, whereas the LSB 1.0 got about 32-34 mpg, but had 215-65-16 tires.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

There should be little to no difference in mileage. There are many factors which could influence mileage. Old, tired oxygen sensors, dirty fuel injectors, dirty air filter etc.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

X-hale said:


> There should be little to no difference in mileage. There are many factors which could influence mileage. Old, tired oxygen sensors, dirty fuel injectors, dirty air filter etc.


Can the sensors and injectors be easily checked at my next oil change?


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

The sensors can't be checked, just replaced. Replace both at the same time if you do it. The injectors are not easily checked. They need to be removed to check them. You could try a bottle of injector cleaner. Techron is the best. It's a Chevron product but I don't know if you can buy it in Canada. BG 44K has a good reputation also. It's available from Amazon.


----------



## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

molly said:


> Further updates: New rear washer nozzle replaced today as well as a test drive to figure out where the rattle is coming from in both front doors. Mechanic said it is coming from the actual door panels and short of replacing them, not much can be done. So, I guess I will have to live with it. It isn't as bad on pavement as on gravel, but still annoying. Sigh. I have a question about gas mileage. Will 17 inch tires (215-60-17) impact fuel economy very much? So far we are getting about 26 mpg, whereas the LSB 1.0 got about 32-34 mpg, but had 215-65-16 tires.


''the rattle is coming from in both front doors. Mechanic said it is coming from the actual door panels and short of replacing them, not much can be done. ''....what is the issue? what did they find was the source of the noises? Door panels can become loose over time, sometimes all you need is Door Panel Plugs, or some screws ( even if you have to drill thru the panel and put a few screws to button down the floppy panel) or some form of fast curing construction glue such as Liquid Nails. Sigh, if i lived nearby you, i'd have a look and if possible, fix it for free . Can you post a bunch of photos of your door panels or a video on here? Really thinking the mechanics are being lazy or just brushing you off. Take it to a auto glass repair shop and ask for them to just look/listen and give a fair estimate to make the issue go away. Or at least they can tell YOU what you could do to eliminate or make it better then what you have now.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Tony, I had told him it sounded to me like the noise was coming from below the window, around the latch area but I had to crane my head down there while driving to hear that, as my hubby is deaf and cannot be much help diagnosing sounds, haha... It isn't super loud, just an even rattle that becomes louder on rougher roads, and sometimes is almost gone on very smooth pavement. The mechanic thought the door handle was a tad loose although I can't detect that. A few years ago, the driver's side handle broke off and was replaced but I don't think that is it, and that wouldn't explain a similar sound on the passenger side. I am just hyper tuned to any rattle or squeak, I guess!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

X-hale said:


> The sensors can't be checked, just replaced. Replace both at the same time if you do it. The injectors are not easily checked. They need to be removed to check them. You could try a bottle of injector cleaner. Techron is the best. It's a Chevron product but I don't know if you can buy it in Canada. BG 44K has a good reputation also. It's available from Amazon.


 Thanks, X-hale. I might try some injector cleaner. Can't hurt.


----------



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Your mileage figure seems pretty normal to me. Depending upon time of year I would get worse mileage than that, but it would be mainly city driving with lots of stops and accelerations. How do you calculate your gas mileage? It gets a bit confusing switching between metric and imperial, and with gas it gets even worse with the difference between the British and American gallon.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Your mileage figure seems pretty normal to me. Depending upon time of year I would get worse mileage than that, but it would be mainly city driving with lots of stops and accelerations. How do you calculate your gas mileage? It gets a bit confusing switching between metric and imperial, and with gas it gets even worse with the difference between the British and American gallon.


Maybe we just got spoiled with the over 30 mpg before, haha! I use British gallons (4.54 l)... I use an online calculator to double check. It worked out to 10.89 l/100 km, or just under 26 mpg. I'll keep checking periodically.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

You're probably driving it differently than you normally would. On and off the gas, changing speed a lot etc. listening for noises and possible problem sounds. After you own it a while your mileage will likely even out back to normal.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

X-hale said:


> ... listening for noises and possible problem sounds.


  Me?? Listening for noises? Haha...you may have something there.


----------



## coastrider (Jul 8, 2020)

I just bought a new to me 05 xtrail, has a blown headgasket due to overheat so I got it for $350. Towed it home and the head checked out good, got it planed and decided to do the timing set and re-ring, should last me many years and for under $1,000 with a overhauled engine. There are deals out there for a bit of work

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Further update!! I ended up taking our Ex to the Lethbridge Nissan dealer to get the door rattles fixed. I had them drive it while I was in town about ten days ago, and the tech was pretty sure it could be easily remedied, so I made an appt. for this past Wednesday. Really good service and the service manager tried to make it as painless as possible bill-wise. Their shop rate is $139.00 and it was in for just over an hour, and I paid $121.00 plus they washed it, so I was happy with that. The tech who had driven it the first time had gone home already but he had already instructed the guys as to what to do, and it was a clip inside the door that was loose and they had to put foam in there to dampen the rattle. They did both front doors, and said if it came back to let them know asap. Went on gravel and horrible rough roads yesterday and it was not rattling. They seem very focused on customer service there, so I will probably go back occasionally for one of their oil change specials...


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Another thing!! I have been trying to find info on the roof rack extension bars that came with this. The sellers said they used them for their canoes and skis. The model number is T-051610, and I can't find what brand it is. I want to sell them as they will not be used by us. Here are some pics...any ideas?


----------



## deandean (Sep 11, 2020)

It's annoying. My old นิสสันอัลเมร่า always give some noise. Brake rub, I guess. Considering changing it but money constrains prevents me doing that. Changing some parts is more practical for me. oops, what a hard life


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Brake update: So.... we were out on Sunday for a drive, and while pulled over, I hear this ticking sound from the rear. To be honest, I had been hearing the odd ticking sound before then but hadn't bothered looking. Although, faint sounds were coming from all four wheels, the loudest ticking was coming from the left rear, and the rim was hot. This was the same wheel that gave us grief last year and which resulted with the shop luckily able to service all four calipers, and replace the pads and rotors all around. Almost a year from that episode! So naturally we think it must be the caliper again. Yesterday, I go in to the shop and in short order, the mechanic said the brake pads were seized so badly he could hardly pry them off, and that it was fairly dirty in there which may have added to the problem. He said the rotors and the calipers were fine, but the pads have to be replaced. So he does that. Today we take it out for a drive, and although I heard no ticking, I decided to put my hand on the rim and it is hot. Great. Hubby goes fishing anyway and we head back, and by the time we get home (20 minutes), it is again very hot and actually has a burning smell. I have to go back in tomorrow at 930. This shop is good about trying to make things right if it is an error on their part, but what do you think is happening here? Hubby had a similar issue with his Ford truck a couple years back, and it turned out to be a stuck emergency brake cable...


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Sounds like the left rear caliper is sticking again. I've never heard of seized brake pads. Nothing should be seized up or stuck after only a year. Does the vehicle roll easily if you put it in neutral and coast at low speed or does it slow down like a brake is dragging?


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

At low speeds, it seems fine. But I will check it on the way to the shop....everything I found online points to a seized caliper, not brakes. The shop owner is looking at it himself, so....here's hoping I won't be out too much more money if the guy made the wrong call!!


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

OK...so they found that the piston inside the caliper on that wheel was rusted and the fluid was not moving properly. They checked the others just to make sure and said that one caliper will have to be replaced. They ordered it and it will be fixed tomorrow morning. Another $289.00, on top of the $237.00 for the new brake pads they put in. Oh well. The brake pad on that side was buggered so they did need replacing. Not sure why that particular wheel would be the only one with that issue. Never had any problems like that with the other Ex.


----------



## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

The brake pads on the other 3 wheels should have been in like new condition. They are good for many years and 10s of thousands of kilometres. I don't see why they replaced them.
The rear calipers live in a harsher environment than the fronts. There is a lot more road spray, sand and crud flying up from the front wheels. The left rear gets the most crud because sand etc. and salt (where it's used) is usually heaviest in the middle of the road.
P.S. I hope the $289 includes labour.


----------



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

They replaced the left and right rear pads. Supposed to be better replaced as pairs? I have always been told that but maybe I have been given wrong info! Yes, all prices I mentioned included labour...


----------



## coastrider (Jul 8, 2020)

Always replace pads by the axle, they come as a set. Especially for a steer axle as it can create pulling to one side if different compounds are used or if one side has reduced friction due to heating of the material.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk


----------

