# Starting to use oil...should I worry??



## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Hey guys! My 2006 X-Trail which I bought in November 2014 with 286K on it now has about 327K. It runs great and gets good mileage. My last oil change was done at almost 8000 km from the previous one (for some reason the guy wrote that on the sticker although usually it is 6000 km). Another mechanic I like to use did the last one and when he undid the plug, he said I better come and look as there was a problem. About 1/2 liter of oil drained out and it was very dirty. He was shocked that my engine hadn't seized up. He knows the other mechanic who did the previous one and didn't think he would have forgotten to out the oil in! He could not find any leak and I have not seen any on the ground. Nor does it appear to be burning oil as there is no smoke or smell that we can see...He told me if it is using oil that badly I had better get rid of it! He said keep checking it and we have been. Yesterday we could see that it was down to the notch below full, after about 2K km. I am going to get some oil today so we can top it up, and will be having some new headlamp bulbs installed so will talk to the guy again today. 

So, how long do these SUVs go?? I cannot afford to get rid of it and buy anything else at this point. How much oil use is acceptable and how much is a red flag? What possible causes are there? If there is no smoke or leaks where the heck is it going? Thanks!!!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

After putting on 8,000 km, motor oils will get dark and look dirty; this is normal. Upon draining, if the engine really only had a 1/2 liter of oil, then either the previous oil change wasn't refilled fully or the engine is burning oil or there is an oil leak. A good way to test for oil burning is to first fully warm up the engine. Stand behind the car. Have someone rev the engine to 4,000 RPM and hold at that RPM for about 15 seconds. If you see a lot of blue smoke come out of the tailpipe, the engine is burning excessive oil.

You need to check the oil level more frequently to be on the safe side. You're lucky that the engine didn't seize up! When you said that it was down to the notch below full, after about 2Km, where about on the dip stick was that. Was it down near the "L" mark; if so, it's abnormal. If it's near the "H" mark, that's OK, expected normal use. Your dip stick may be different from my picture.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly,
That is sad. Shows the importance of checking your oil level occasionally, as well as all of your fluids. Also how important it is to check yourself after an oil change to insure its been filled properly. My problem in the past was always overfilling, which would require me to bring the x back and have some drained out. Consequently for the past year and half, I have been doing my own oil changes. Easy to do with the car on the ground and with the wheels turned out a bit so you access the oil filter easily.
Guess you will have to keep an eye on yours now, and hopefully there has not been too much damage. I wonder though if you have suffered some pre-cat damage that has affected the engine. Seeing you and the previous owner had issues leading to its replacement with a used one, maybe the ceramic has been disintegrating. Has me curious if these should be replaced, as a precautionary measure at a certain age and mileage. I would love to hear from you Rogoman about this.
Obviously my scenario and Molly's are quite different. She is at the equivalent of 200,000 miles on her engine. In her shoes, I would try a high mileage engine oil and keep a record of how much its consuming over the next month or so. In my case I have the equivalent of a bit over 100,000 for the same age vehicle. Runs beautifully and doesn't burn any oil between changes. Knock on wood but everything works perfectly on it ( other than a hand brake needing adjustment). I would like to keep it up for another 3 or 4 years. Should I bite the bullet next spring and replace it, or should I wait until a problem shows up?


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks!! The mechanic told me also to check every 1000 km. and to keep a record of how much oil is added when. He was not sure if those special oils would help, but agreed we could use it in the next oil change and see. I will keep an eye on the mileage I get also.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

quadraria10 said:


> I wonder though if you have suffered some pre-cat damage that has affected the engine. Seeing you and the previous owner had issues leading to its replacement with a used one, maybe the ceramic has been disintegrating. Has me curious if these should be replaced, as a precautionary measure at a certain age and mileage. I would love to hear from you Rogoman about this.
> Obviously my scenario and Molly's are quite different. She is at the equivalent of 200,000 miles on her engine. In her shoes, I would try a high mileage engine oil and keep a record of how much its consuming over the next month or so. In my case I have the equivalent of a bit over 100,000 for the same age vehicle. Runs beautifully and doesn't burn any oil between changes.


Hi Quad,
What's interesting about the CAT disintegration problem is that Nissan had a recall on Altimas 2002-2006 with the QR25DE engine but I didn't hear anything about other models in the same year range. I own a 2009 Altima with a QR25DE and two years ago got a recall notice for the CAT fix; the dealer replaced the exhaust manifold along with the pre-CATs and re-programmed the ECU. I guess Nissan decided to extend the recall to newer year models.

From what I've been told about longevity of the pre-CATs, as long as there are no long term mis-fires, the pre-CATs should last a long time without any danger of disintegration.

Hope this helps.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hey Rogoman
Thanks for the answer. That is interesting about the recall on the 2009, as I thought there had been a redesign after 2006 that rectified the issue. Must admit with regards to mine, there were quite a few threads of people expressing concern back in 2008 or so, but not many actual postings from X trail owners who had a disintegrating pre cat. I know the ecu is programmed differently on ours than on the Sentras and Altimas with the 2.5. With the automatic it's really rare to run it at high revs, and its not like mine does lots of engine braking. Nor do I use the vehicle in anyway that taxes its capabilities which are quite extensive. Anyway I am starting to realize actual problems with the pre cat do not come on all of a sudden, and ones that actually do get to the point where they are disintegrating are because the engine has been running lean for a good while, there is a fuel leak or some other real problem with ignition. I am starting to believe that many people just flat out ignore their malfunction indicator light. My understanding is it is supposed to give you a heads up on a problem so that it can be fixed before more serious damage occurs. Ignoring it doesn't lead to the best outcomes.

So thanks for the reassurance, and hopefully its Pre-CAT for life for me. Joyeux Noël!


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Could this be my lack of power?
The cat is clogged and the fuel consumption is afected.

When i was doing the tie end rods, i took a look at the manifold and was discouraged seeing the rusty clamps holding it together.


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

otomodo said:


> Could this be my lack of power?
> The cat is clogged and the fuel consumption is afected.
> 
> When i was doing the tie end rods, i took a look at the manifold and was discouraged seeing the rusty clamps holding it together.


I meant , the cat could be clogged and affecting the fuel consumption


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Otomodo 
I have been researching this, and for the cat to go bad requires it to be contaminated by oil, coolant or fuel. If the engine is running rich or not fully combusting gasoline it gets to the cat and over time causes it to deteriorate. So if yours is bad, something else has been going on that needs repair. Could be leaky fuel injectors, valves, rings, gaskets, maybe even bad O2 sensors. Maybe you should have it diagnosed. Give you an idea of what is needed to get it running right seeing you are up in the air as to whether or not to keep the beast!


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Since the wife only runs 4 km to work and comes home for diner, i tought the cat won t get hot enough to stay clear.
By the way i m driving it to gatineau (Val des Monts) this chrismas. Usually the wife and Jr. sleep all the way, so i 'll have the chance to drive it like i ve stole it.


Envoyé de mon LG-D852 en utilisant Tapatalk


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## expat (Dec 26, 2013)

Hello Molly, 
My 2005 QR25 Exy uses about a liter and a half +/- between oil changes, it only has 172,000km, but a lifetime of city driving, cheap oil and cheap filters (before I owned it) takes a toll. I don't have any leaks that I can find, I just attribute it to an old engine. I check my oil about once a week and top it off if she needs it. Oil changes are around every 6,000km. It still runs well, but its had 10 years of daily driving. On these old cars, the fluids have to be checked frequently to prevent problems that can destroy your car. 
In my opinion, since your Exy was almost ran out of engine oil, check it once a week (or more) to make sure it stays at the correct level and make a note of the level each time you check it (I use a note app on my smart phone for this).


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

So it turns out it may not be using oil after all. We rechecked it on a more level spot, when it was cold, and it read full. So this would indicate that the guy who changed the oil the second-to-last time actually didn't put any in or didn't put in much! I will get the guy who did it last time to do it next time it is due! BUT it is very dirty...well, very dark. What could be causing this? And, should we switch to either synthetic or that high-mileage oil? Should we start getting it done more frequently? Calculated my gas mileage again and it is around 9.5/100 km. Lower than before but I have been idling it a lot due to the cold weather...Thanks!!

HAPPY CHRISTMAS to all you helpful Nissan folks out there!!!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly Merry Christmas to you as well. Getting dark is good as it means its doing its job, but given what happened you would probably be best off draining it off and putting in new oil and a filter. I think I would also try an oil for high mileage engines. Don't bother with synthetic, as your better off with more frequent oil changes rather than extending the change interval which is one of the main reasons to use synthetic.
And lower mileage is normal at this time of year because of winter gas formulations with more ethanol.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks! We were worried that it shouldn't be that dirty after 3000 km. but then I have never worried about checking my oil before this, haha! Sorry!!!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Joyeux Noel Otomodo. Hope you enjoyed the drive and that your ''Italian Tune-up'' did the trick.

And Molly, all I can say is good thing you did not buy a Subaru. Just take an extra 45 seconds every second fill up to check and also keep an eye on your other fluid levels.
Happy Holidays.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

*Update...*

So I am due for an oil change any day, at 326K. We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K. I guess we will try some of that high-mileage oil when we get it done. Is this amount of use OK? 

My hubby is getting pretty worried about the high mileage on it and the fact that it is using some oil. He is wondering if we should find another motor to put into it! I would think that would be pretty costly, even if we could find one...

Opinions? :|


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly,
Does sound a bit excessive, though its fairly normal for a higher mileage engine to burn a bit of oil. No sign of leaks under the vehicle in the morning? A concern would be the problems it had with the pre cat needing replacement which could have affected the engine and the piston rings specifically if some of the ceramic material got sucked back into it. However that is worse case scenario and the fact that it is still running well and getting good gas mileage should be a bit reassuring to you. It would be worth it to try an oil formulated for high mileage engines, as lets face it that is what you have. Also I think its normal to go through a bit more oil in winter time especially with the cold we get in Canada. 
And for further comfort, read the following. 
Excessive Oil Consumption Isn't Normal - Consumer Reports

At least you will be able to reconcile yourself with the fact that yours is no worse than many Subarus and some pretty high end vehicles which are much younger and burn as much if not more than yours does. If you read the comments you will also read about Hondas, Toyotas, VWs and even other Nissans suffering similar issues. Should make you a bit more cautious in wishing for a younger lower mileage vehicle.

I say do as you are doing. Keep an eye on it and top up when needed. It shouldn't leave you stranded if that is what you are worried about. 
re Engine replacement, could be done. So could an engine rebuild but you aren't there yet from what I can tell. Hopefully others can chime in and share their thoughts.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

molly said:


> So I am due for an oil change any day, at 326K. We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K. I guess we will try some of that high-mileage oil when we get it done. Is this amount of use OK?
> 
> My hubby is getting pretty worried about the high mileage on it and the fact that it is using some oil. He is wondering if we should find another motor to put into it! I would think that would be pretty costly, even if we could find one...
> 
> Opinions? :|


For an engine that has over 200,000 mi on it, burning 1/2 qt of oil after putting on 1243 mi is not that bad at all. You can certainly try the high-mileage oil, but there's guaranty that it'll help. Stay with a good brand of motor oil, don't use a heavier oil then what's recommended and don't put any additives in the engine oil.

If you're getting paranoid about the reliability of the engine, you can always check the condition of the engine by doing a compression test on all cylinders; standard reading: 181 psi, minimum 154 psi, differential limit between cylinders 14 psi.

Listen for any timing chain noise; of course, there should be none.

Easy start-ups, smooth idle and good power.

If the above conditions are true, there's no need for another engine.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Thanks, guys. I am getting an oil change this morning and will ask Gary about the compression test. I asked him about that fancy oil but he suggested to keep using what we have been using. I'll do some more research into that high mileage stuff, though. Replacing the motor is a big expense, I found out, and not worth it in this case. If the rest of the car was in mint shape, maybe, but it is not. I think we will just keep it for now, and reconsider a bit later. If we wait too long to sell it, it will have even more kms on it, making it that much harder to get a decent amount of dough back. And of course, there is no guarantee that getting a low-mileage vehicle will not have its problems either!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

''We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K.'' 
From the above I conclude her engine used just over a 1/2 quart in 1000 kms or 621 miles.
I think the compression test is a good call. Maybe a leak test as well?

And Molly you have me curious about X trail values in Alberta. On Kijiji there are around 45 of them for sale throughout the province
Here is the cheapest one available with an automatic and it has 280,000 kms and is in Lethbridge. Its also the one with the highest mileage and the price listed is 3895.

2006 Nissan X-trail SE SUV, Crossover | used cars & trucks | Lethbridge | Kijiji

Cheapest manual looks to be a great deal at $3000 with 237,000
2005 Nissan X-trail LE SUV, Crossover | used cars & trucks | Calgary | Kijiji

Must be true you don't use salt on the roads there, the bodies on most I peeked at look to be in great shape.


Otherwise they move up in price rapidly to top out at 10K with most around 6 to 7,0000 but all with less than 175,000 kms

Guess you know where I am going with this... eh eh.. sell yours and get one with 150,000 less kms lol.


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## chewydarth (Feb 5, 2016)

molly said:


> Hey guys! My 2006 X-Trail which I bought in November 2014 with 286K on it now has about 327K. It runs great and gets good mileage. My last oil change was done at almost 8000 km from the previous one (for some reason the guy wrote that on the sticker although usually it is 6000 km). Another mechanic I like to use did the last one and when he undid the plug, he said I better come and look as there was a problem. About 1/2 liter of oil drained out and it was very dirty. He was shocked that my engine hadn't seized up. He knows the other mechanic who did the previous one and didn't think he would have forgotten to out the oil in! He could not find any leak and I have not seen any on the ground. Nor does it appear to be burning oil as there is no smoke or smell that we can see...He told me if it is using oil that badly I had better get rid of it! He said keep checking it and we have been. Yesterday we could see that it was down to the notch below full, after about 2K km. I am going to get some oil today so we can top it up, and will be having some new headlamp bulbs installed so will talk to the guy again today.
> 
> So, how long do these SUVs go?? I cannot afford to get rid of it and buy anything else at this point. How much oil use is acceptable and how much is a red flag? What possible causes are there? If there is no smoke or leaks where the heck is it going? Thanks!!!


I don't no where the oil is going but mine is the same it seams to smoke when the oil is full up when the oil drops to the bottom of the stick no smoke.Still fine to drive stopped the tappet noise buy using castrol 5w30 synthetic the oil light will come on soon before death passed the mot with no problem the oil has to be burning of like an overfil safety thats blocked.


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## chewydarth (Feb 5, 2016)

Buy youself an oilpump and do it yourself you only put the pipe down the dipstick and pump the oil out.See how much you get.


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## chewydarth (Feb 5, 2016)

*A cat on a diesel has to eat oil it needs to be burned off*



quadraria10 said:


> Hi Otomodo
> I have been researching this, and for the cat to go bad requires it to be contaminated by oil, coolant or fuel. If the engine is running rich or not fully combusting gasoline it gets to the cat and over time causes it to deteriorate. So if yours is bad, something else has been going on that needs repair. Could be leaky fuel injectors, valves, rings, gaskets, maybe even bad O2 sensors. Maybe you should have it diagnosed. Give you an idea of what is needed to get it running right seeing you are up in the air as to whether or not to keep the beast!


Cats can take oil they just need to get very hot to burn it away a blow lamp if you dont make the mot if it passes dont worry.Sensors drive you nuts.


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## chewydarth (Feb 5, 2016)

chewydarth said:


> Cats can take oil they just need to get very hot to burn it away a blow lamp if you dont make the mot if it passes dont worry.Sensors drive you nuts.


Anymore take it to the scrap yard start again.
Cheaper in the long run dont throw good money after bad.
Next year mot it early so you can still sell it with one.
:|


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Must be true you don't use salt on the roads there, the bodies on most I peeked at look to be in great shape.
> 
> 
> Otherwise they move up in price rapidly to top out at 10K with most around 6 to 7,0000 but all with less than 175,000 kms
> ...


We use lots of salt, but if we get chinooks, the roads dry off pretty quick...Car washes do well out here, trying to rinse that stuff off one's car regularly! I think we will hold on for now, and reassess in the spring. If we could get no less than 3K, it may be best to take our lumps early. On the other hand, Gary, our mechanic, thinks we may was well run it for awhile as he thinks it is fine otherwise. He does not want me to do anything I don't need to do which is pretty refreshing, haha!


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## chewydarth (Feb 5, 2016)

*Have breakdown cover.*



molly said:


> So I am due for an oil change any day, at 326K. We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K. I guess we will try some of that high-mileage oil when we get it done. Is this amount of use OK?
> 
> My hubby is getting pretty worried about the high mileage on it and the fact that it is using some oil. He is wondering if we should find another motor to put into it! I would think that would be pretty costly, even if we could find one...
> 
> Opinions? :|


Dont worry about it just have cover if you breakdown never replace the engine it's a waste of time you never know what your getting.Just be prepaired to replace the car if it dies untill then happy times.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Chewydarth,
Welcome to the forum. Its great that you want to contribute, but how about editing your posts a bit so that they are intelligible? No insult intended, I would simply like to be able to understand clearly what you are writing. For example I can guess that mot means Ministry of Transport, but while that may be something required in your country or province, its not applicable to everyone. In this case I do not believe Alberta has such annual inspections.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi again Molly,
Sounds like you have finally found a good mechanic that you can rely upon. That is half the battle in owning an older vehicle. I am just curious how you are measuring your oil level and determining you are down half a quart. Usually the amount between the min and max fill lines is a quart, and any measurement in between there is acceptable. Also you should be measuring after the vehicle has sat for a few hours, or first thing in the morning.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Chewydarth,
> Welcome to the forum. Its great that you want to contribute, but how about editing your posts a bit so that they are intelligible? No insult intended, I would simply like to be able to understand clearly what you are writing. For example I can guess that mot means Ministry of Transport, but while that may be something required in your country or province, its not applicable to everyone. In this case I do not believe Alberta has such annual inspections.


Yes, welcome, Chewy! I had trouble figuring out what you meant also! We do not require annual inspections here in Alberta!


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi again Molly,
> Sounds like you have finally found a good mechanic that you can rely upon. That is half the battle in owning an older vehicle. I am just curious how you are measuring your oil level and determining you are down half a quart. Usually the amount between the min and max fill lines is a quart, and any measurement in between there is acceptable. Also you should be measuring after the vehicle has sat for a few hours, or first thing in the morning.


Yes, we know to check oil when engine is cool! It was just what hubby ended up putting in so that it read full, and he estimated that he put in half a quart. So we will keep checking on a regular basis, and I will also keep an eye on what X-Trails are going for, in case we want to sell it this spring. There are a lot for sale right now! When I bought this, there were less than half a dozen on the market, including Kijiji and Autotrader. 

Do you belong to that Facebook group for X-Trails? I do. Some fancy rigs on there! 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4066548041/


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

quadraria10 said:


> ''We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K.''
> From the above I conclude her engine used just over a 1/2 quart in 1000 kms or 621 miles.
> I think the compression test is a good call. Maybe a leak test as well?
> 
> ...


What a coincidence! I just purchased the cheap Manual X-Trail you've posted on here just this weekend! What are the odds????? I just signed up today looking for general information and common problems on X-Trails and wound up here! Haha! My wife drives a Midnight Jade Metallic 2014 Rogue SL AWD with an Almond Interior.

I too live in Alberta and can attest to the interesting climate in the area (chinooks and all). I had an intent of buying one of these when they were new. By the time I had the funds to get one, they weren't selling them in our market anymore! Fortunately I stumbled upon this Red 5-speed SE AWD version. 

To Molly, from a fellow Albertan I can attest to you having little trouble selling as is and getting a lower mileage model if need be. Most people in the know tend to snap these up pretty quickly no matter what the mileage may be in this area. Hopefully your oil consumption issue isn't too serious and you can hold on to it for as long as possible. Do your best to maintain your current vehicle and start saving. If nothing happens while you're diagnosing your issues - great! I'd like to hear the outcome of any further issues you are having with a high mileage unit. I'm glad to hear there are other Albertans to collaborate with on here... Not mention all the people in this thread from various parts of the world! It's great to get an international perspective on these vehicles.

Best of luck on the continued reliability of your X-Trail!


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Hi ReasonOne!

That is a good story! And welcome! I have posted a few issues on here...I too found this site right after buying. I was a bit hasty...it was the only one we looked at, and I got panicky, never a good reason to buy anything! But it is fun to drive, has a nice assortment of squeaks and rattles, gets good mileage and does not look too bad. It does seem that these SUVs have a following, so hopefully when we are able to upgrade, we won't lose too much money.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Good stuff ReasonOne. That looked like a great deal to me for 3K or less. I think between that and your wife's new Rogue, you won't need to decorate for Christmas next year. Will be very interested to hear your comparison. I have expressed my thoughts in a few different threads on the two vehicles. You will find lots of good info here to maintain it at affordable prices, and if you do some of your own mechanical work you will find it quite easy to work on. Gotta love getting a good vehicle for less than a tenth of its original cost. My jalopnik hat is off to you!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

BRAND NEW SET OF REAR ROTORS INFINITI AND NISSAN | other parts, accessories | Calgary | Kijiji

Saw this as well on Calgary Kijiji-- great deal for rear rotors, especially when you can probably offer the guy $40. They are Aimco who I am pretty sure is affiliated with Raybestos
http://www.aimcobrakes.com/magnolia...otors-and-drums/premium-drums-and-rotors.html


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> BRAND NEW SET OF REAR ROTORS INFINITI AND NISSAN | other parts, accessories | Calgary | Kijiji
> 
> Saw this as well on Calgary Kijiji-- great deal for rear rotors, especially when you can probably offer the guy $40.


If I feel it on the front end, through the steering wheel, are those the front rotors?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly,
Yes most likely its the front ones. Those are for rear ones. But you could find front ones for around 100 for the 2 I am pretty sure. Rockauto has a great deal on RAYBESTOS 980388R Professional they would run you about $140 delivered to your home.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly again Molly while taking a coffee break, I decided to peek for you. Best deal I can find for 2 rotors and a set of front pads delivered to your door in Longview Alberta including gst and free shipping would cost $90.54 cdn. If on a budget or not wanting too spend too much on a vehicle I would get rid of in a year or two, its what I would buy.
https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/autostar/ni490/

and pads made in Canada --https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/ideal/fit865/

and if you want to splurge a bit more-- 2006 Nissan X-Trail Disc Brake Hardware Kit Canada 
for an extra $16 + gst
So grand total of approx $108 for the parts + some brake lube ( 1 or 2 packs of this will do you at $1.49 each--though I am sure your mechanic will have some)
Caliper Lube, 5 g | Canadian Tire

It will feel like you have new brakes. Hope this may be a solution for you and that you will feel the love for your X Trail once again.


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

I just wanted to let Molly know that one of the issues that my XTrail had (which was one of the many reasons I got a really, really good deal on it) was that there was an oil cooler o-ring at the rear of the motor that has a slow leak, causing it to drip on the exhaust causing the scent of burning oil. Some people will think the engine is burning oil when it.... in fact isn't.

I'll confirm the exact terminology once I'm back home in a couple days. It's not a substantial cost to repair it, so I'm told.... And I'll fill you in on more when time permits. Just throwing that up as a possibility.

Another thing I recommend doing is going to the Transport Canada website and looking up your car on the recall list. When I did this I discovered 2 recalls for me. An airbag recall and a fuel filler recall. My car is at my local Nissan dealer having the recalls repaired at no charge to me as we speak.

Hope this helps anybody reading this.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi ReasonOne,
There is a thread here about the oil cooler, how to repair and the gasket part numbers you need to order from Nissan.

http://www.nissanforums.com/x-trail/198425-oil-cooler-leaking-05-canadian-x.html

There is also one on the Australian X trail forum. Originally Nissan claimed it was not a repairable part and had to be replaced in its entirety, and dealers part dept diagrams did not show it could be disassembled. However my service manual shows that it can be, and it's a question of replacing gaskets. You will find a pic of the diagram in the thread listed. One member, Esberelias did a bit of a how to write up and we were able to get the right Nissan part numbers to order the small and large O rings as well as the gasket that attaches to the engine block. It would be worth doing a search to find out. I will be checking mine out come spring, as I have noticed a bit of a burning rubber smell occasionally that I have not been able to identify. Apparently Mobil 1 oil which I use, smells that way when burning, and I have noticed I am down about a third of a quart/ litre after 7300 kms since last oil change. However, no smoke and no staining whatsoever on the ground. Something to keep an eye on and be aware of, but it can wait until spring. Then I will decide if I tackle it myself, or get someone to fix it. Enjoy the reading.


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

Thank you for this link, quadraria10!

I'll be using this as ammunition at the dealer. If the repair cost is not favourable, I'll be doing this myself. If there's an easy way to get the small and large o-rings and the gasket to resolve this issue on my own I would certainly prefer to go this route. There are a few other issues with this vehicle so that's one less matter for me to deal with. I'll start calling up a couple friends in the industry and see if I can scrounge up these gaskets in another manner as well to cover my bases.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

ReasonOne said:


> I just wanted to let Molly know that one of the issues that my XTrail had (which was one of the many reasons I got a really, really good deal on it) was that there was an oil cooler o-ring at the rear of the motor that has a slow leak, causing it to drip on the exhaust causing the scent of burning oil. Some people will think the engine is burning oil when it.... in fact isn't.
> 
> Another thing I recommend doing is going to the Transport Canada website and looking up your car on the recall list. When I did this I discovered 2 recalls for me. An airbag recall and a fuel filler recall. My car is at my local Nissan dealer having the recalls repaired at no charge to me as we speak.


Hi! Thanks for that, but there is no burning oil smell with mine, and the mechanic was very sure there was no leak. I will double check the airbag recall but the fuel filler neck was done before I bought it. The previous owners had bought it new.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

ReasonOne said:


> Thank you for this link, quadraria10!
> 
> I'll be using this as ammunition at the dealer. If the repair cost is not favourable, I'll be doing this myself. If there's an easy way to get the small and large o-rings and the gasket to resolve this issue on my own I would certainly prefer to go this route. There are a few other issues with this vehicle so that's one less matter for me to deal with. I'll start calling up a couple friends in the industry and see if I can scrounge up these gaskets in another manner as well to cover my bases.


The part numbers you need are on page of the thread I posted above. You may want to print the page from the manual Chadn posted on page 1 of it, to bring to the dealer. Seems based on the last post or two that the dealers now have the part numbers listed to fix, but otherwise they will try and charge you their list price of $660 +tx for the part which is not available anywhere else. Read that thread and look at the different links in it and it will give you an idea of what is involved. Good luck with it.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly
You may have to call Nissan Canada and get yourself registered as the new owner, in case you never did. You will need your serial number and the number can be found on the Nissan Canada website. That way a dealer can do the passenger side air bag recall for you. A pain but worth getting done. 

And for what its worth I don't think I have an oil cooler leak. I am only down to the 3\4 of the full mark, so more like a quarter of a quart-- what would that be half a pint? But its winter and I am only doing oil changes at the 8 to 9K mark because I am using synthetic.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Molly again Molly while taking a coffee break, I decided to peek for you. Best deal I can find for 2 rotors and a set of front pads delivered to your door in Longview Alberta including gst and free shipping would cost $90.54 cdn. If on a budget or not wanting too spend too much on a vehicle I would get rid of in a year or two, its what I would buy.
> https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/autostar/ni490/
> 
> and pads made in Canada --https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/ideal/fit865/
> ...


Please forgive the dumb question, but do brake pads come in pairs for both front wheels? I put two in my shopping cart but don't want to end up with four! It doesn't really say on there...can you tell I know nothing about this stuff??


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly,
Yup they come in pairs. You only need to order one set. Just make sure you are ordering ones for the front. If you are ordering from Wrench Monkey, couple of other good deals are cabin filter for $10.44
http://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/TYC/800002P/

and engine air filter for $8.97

http://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/FRAM/CA4309/

You will probably want to change those come spring, and if you order them at the same time you can take advantage of the free delivery. And if you are getting that brake hardware kit, it looks like it even includes a package of synthetic brake lube!


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Molly,
> Yup they come in pairs. You only need to order one set. Just make sure you are ordering ones for the front. If you are ordering from Wrench Monkey, couple of other good deals are cabin filter for $10.44
> TYC 800002P Cabin Air Filter Canada
> 
> ...


I just placed my order without reading the last part of your message! I can order those filters later. I can't believe they ship that heavy stuff for free!! My mechanic quoted about $170.00 for the front rotors only, and an hour labour. But he is fine with me supplying the parts...thanks, Quad!!!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Glad to be of assistance. I think it's a pretty great deal. You are right about the shipping. It would be over 40lbs, and I think close to sixty bucks if I where to mail it to you with parcel post. Gotta love free delivery to your door. If you want the filters you could probably email them to add to your shipment seeing it will probably only be done on Monday. Anyway let us know how the delivery goes. I may want to use them myself someday. Most of their part prices are pretty darn good.


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

quadraria10 said:


> The part numbers you need are on page of the thread I posted above. You may want to print the page from the manual Chadn posted on page 1 of it, to bring to the dealer. Seems based on the last post or two that the dealers now have the part numbers listed to fix, but otherwise they will try and charge you their list price of $660 +tx for the part which is not available anywhere else. Read that thread and look at the different links in it and it will give you an idea of what is involved. Good luck with it.


Thanks again, I ordered the gaskets and o-rings necessary on the list along with the sensor. The parts guy made mention that some of these gaskets/o-rings were 6 cylinder Pathfinder parts and some were X-Trail parts, so he was quite confused.... He asked if I owned both vehicles and politely side-stepped the issue with additional questions. I don't have to pay until they arrive so I will keep you informed on the total cost when they arrive next week.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Reason One,
Thought you might be interested in this Pathfinder thread I saw today. Very similar issue.

http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/142468-2001-pathfinder-odd-oil-leak-pics.html

Were you able to get yours fixed? I am curious as to the price of the sensor.

And Hi Molly --curious if you got your parts and had the warped rotors replaced?


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

Hi quadraria10,

Got mine fixed. Thank you again for the input! Took some heavy negotiation, but because I had a major job done at the dealer they accommodated me. My X-Trail required a new clutch. I figured if I'm going through the substantial expense of having the dealer do it, might as well make it worth my while.

Now I know you will think I'm insane getting a clutch job done at the dealer, but I got the car for such a fair price it was worth it in my opinion.. And for the reasons I will explain shortly. So the dealer stated in order to access the clutch the have to pull/move the CV axle. I have the replacement axle already (and old one desperately needed to be changed) so I asked them to install that for me and not charge me additional labor time as its fully accessible anyway. After some negotiation, they agreed. Another component that becomes accessible during the clutch repair is part of the oil cooler assembly. At least to the extent where the sensor and gaskets can be easily replaced. Naturally, they tried hard to convince me to replace the entire cooler to incur the labor cost and a substantial part cost but I insisted - no - just replace the oil cooler sensor and the gaskets only. Same argument, same negotiation, same agreement. No additional labor cost for install! So in essence, for the price of the clutch repair I got the cv axle and the oil cooler o-ring sensor and gaskets installed for $0. And they repaired the fuel filler neck recall and the Takata airbag recall. I know the dealer charged alot for the clutch job, but having these components installed at the same time makes the overall price quite reasonable, actually.

The actual sensor was maybe $85? The gaskets another $15-20? I'll dig up the receipt later and give you the actual cost. Thanks again quadraria10 for the required part numbers to get this all sorted out. They actually argued with me because the actual part # on the replacement gasket you offered isn't the exact X-Trail component, but I won out in the end.

And so far, it runs and drives amazingly well and the leaks are no more! I'm impressed by the overall size, roominess, handling and fuel economy. The only downside is I find 5th gear to not have the gearing range I expected for the purposes of highway driving. But for a purchase cost of around 5% of my wife's 2014 SL AWD Rogue.... I can't complain one bit. I bought this as a spare vehicle to take things to the dump, recycling and light off-roading/rural driving.. And this fits the bill perfectly.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Reason One,
> Thought you might be interested in this Pathfinder thread I saw today. Very similar issue.
> 
> http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/142468-2001-pathfinder-odd-oil-leak-pics.html
> ...


Hi Quad!
Sorry for the late reply but I did not get a notification via email like I usually get! Believe it or not, they sent the rear brake pads, not the front! I did not know this until the mechanic opened up the box. So he just did the rotors, and told me I may as well keep the other pads as will likely need them eventually. I let the WrenchMonkey guys know, and was kinda hoping they would give me a coupon or something, but they sort of apologized...On the plus side, no more vibrating!! Whee! :laugh:


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

ReasonOne said:


> I just wanted to let Molly know that one of the issues that my XTrail had (which was one of the many reasons I got a really, really good deal on it) was that there was an oil cooler o-ring at the rear of the motor that has a slow leak, causing it to drip on the exhaust causing the scent of burning oil. Some people will think the engine is burning oil when it.... in fact isn't...
> 
> Another thing I recommend doing is going to the Transport Canada website and looking up your car on the recall list. When I did this I discovered 2 recalls for me. An airbag recall and a fuel filler recall...
> Hope this helps anybody reading this.


I checked back on the previous owner's records and see that the leaking oil cooler was repaired and O-rings were replaced at the 275K mark. Mine is using a bit of oil, so we keep on top of it and are now taking it in at 5000km. intervals instead of the Nissan-suggested 6000 km. Just rolled over 331K.

Glad I read this post as I had not heard about that airbag recall. I ended up going to Fish Creek Nissan after another off-putting episode with Okotoks Nissan. I will not ever call those guys again for anything! I may pick up a little Nissan-specific part there once in a while, but that is it...

I am going back to Fish Creek for their winter-tire swap, which is paired with a 100 point inspection (can't wait! haha!) and an alignment check for $129.95. Since it costs me $100.00 just to do the tires (I only have one set of rims), I figured it was a good deal...


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Molly,
I was wondering how parts monkey worked out. Not too impressive if they shipped the wrong pads, but I am glad the rotors are working out. 
And Hi ReasonOne 
Good job negotiating. IT'S a good lesson that it's possible to negotiate with dealer service depts. Nice also to get everything done in one shot. What was the x trail part number for the oil cooler gasket, or did they use the Pathfinder part? 
With the seats down and a tarp, ours goes to the dump as well, and it's pretty amazing how much and what you can fit into it. I find it a great size, and that it cleans up rather nicely. Passengers all seem to like it as well, even when sitting in the back. I love the light in the cabin, and the way it drives. And call me nuts, but I still like looks of it, and think it's aging well. I think a lot of them are because I see a lot of them in the Ottawa Gatineau area, and most still look good considering they are all between 9 and 12 years old. Hope to keep ours a few more years yet. It always shines when conditions are bad!


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## ReasonOne (Feb 7, 2016)

Hi Quadraria10,

For the gasket that fits to the block that was $4.99 (part #21304-8H700). The two o-rings were $9.01 for the small one, and $4.99 for the larger one.


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