# How much should I expect to pay for CV joint replacement for both sides of my vehicle



## rbloedow (Nov 2, 2002)

Well, lately I've been hearing that notorious CV click when I turn my wheels while driving - a quick look under my car confirmed that the CV Joints are probably gone, which is weird because the boots looked fine a few thousand miles ago, now they are both fully separated in two and full of debris. 

Now, I can handle changing a few things here and there, but I don't even want to touch this repair because I know it will take me some time, time that I cannot spare this time of year due to finals, work, family issues, and a cross country trip that I have in a few weeks. I'm looking to pay a mechanic to do it. 

I called the dealer and asked for an estimate: they quoted me something along the lines of $500 w/ remanufactured parts.  Here are some questions I have:

1) I know this is going to be a costly job, but what is the going rate for a "normal" mechanic to do it, in general? Should I use remanufactured parts, or go new? What's the price difference?

2) Also, I've been planning a suspension upgrade with some KYB GR-2 shocks and struts, but keeping my stock springs. Do you guys recommend going ahead and having the upgrade done when I have the CV Joints repaired? I can find them for $48 @ Tirerack.com, is that a good price? What else do I need to purchase for this upgrade, or should I just leave that for the mechanic to supply?

Thanks!
Ryan :thumbup:


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## Neil (Aug 13, 2002)

rbloedow said:


> Well, lately I've been hearing that notorious CV click when I turn my wheels while driving - a quick look under my car confirmed that the CV Joints are probably gone, which is weird because the boots looked fine a few thousand miles ago, now they are both fully separated in two and full of debris.
> 
> Now, I can handle changing a few things here and there, but I don't even want to touch this repair because I know it will take me some time, time that I cannot spare this time of year due to finals, work, family issues, and a cross country trip that I have in a few weeks. I'm looking to pay a mechanic to do it.
> 
> ...


I think thats a little steep for the cost. I had mine replaced a while back and I coulda swore it was around $150-200 per side with brand new boots and joints. 

Also make sure they check other stuff. I remember the guy telling me that usually when it starts clicking there can be other stuff affected as well. I had mine replaced before the clicking began but after the boot split. 

Might as well have all the work done at once if it will save them the cost of taking parts off later. Dont forget to add in the cost too of alignment. I think to install my coilovers and have them aligned was around $300 or so, so you'd probably be looking at around $200-250 i'd say for that.


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## B11sleeper (Oct 15, 2003)

www.raxles.com
they cost more than the parts at pepboys, but they have all the right ideas as to what an axle should be. I bought some about a year ago and they didn't fail in 20k miles. I did have a boot tear on the side where i've had the tranny in and out like 4 times in 3 months, but i'm blaming the hacks that did one of the tranny swaps.


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## himilefrontier (Jan 21, 2003)

I paid $100 for both axles and it took like an hour to install both of them in my driveway with a 1 1/8 in socket(I think), a tire iron and a long breaker bar.Change them one at a time and you should be fine.DO NOT REMOVE BOTH AT THE SAME TIME!!! The spider gears can rotate and if this happens the only fix is to remove the trans and split the case.


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## psteng19 (May 4, 2002)

I paid $130 to have the driver side replaced with non-Nissan OEM replacement part (entire axle).
Twice that I would assume is $260.

If you're keeping stock springs, the GR-2's will do fine. All you need is the strut itself. It rest of the parts are just bolts and rubber housing of the springs which you can take off your old struts.


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## 0341TODD (Nov 15, 2003)

If you can get kybs that cheap man, do it. Make sure you retain all the coil seats b/c its annoying when you hit bumps and the ass end of the car is making metal to metal rubbing noises. I bought them through my shop and paid 50 bucks each for them, 48 dollars is pretty good for retail-(plus shipping)


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## Avengerdriver (Jul 22, 2002)

himilefrontier said:


> I paid $100 for both axles and it took like an hour to install both of them in my driveway with a 1 1/8 in socket(I think), a tire iron and a long breaker bar.Change them one at a time and you should be fine.DO NOT REMOVE BOTH AT THE SAME TIME!!! The spider gears can rotate and if this happens the only fix is to remove the trans and split the case.




I replaced both of mine for about the same price and in the same ammount of time when I replaced my clutch.

They're not too hard to do if you have replaced half axles before. 

I bought both axles for about $100 out the door total (there was a core fee for the old axles I forget what it was) at Advance Auto Parts.


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## Guest (Dec 26, 2003)

If you decide to replace the axle's it really not that hard. I had to make this repair before and with no expierence in that department. It took very little time to replace both my front axles.


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## mbquart1 (Jul 11, 2002)

I think I paid 120.00 parts and labor to have the drivers side axel and passanger side outboard boot replaced(I already had the rt side boot). They are easy to replace with the right tools if you are mech. inclined I was just out of town working when my wife had to have it done.


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## Teknokid (Jun 1, 2002)

I did it myself for about $25 for boots, grease, and the tranny seal. It was about 3 hours cause i wanted to take my time and it was the first time doing it by myself. My mechanicly inclined father closely watching me of course. If you dont fix these boots, youre axles are sure to go, never wait for them to click. I always inspect them when i wash my car, it takes a few seconds to squeeze the boot and make sure no grease leaks. 

WHether its boots or the whole axle, its the same process. It is less time consuming of course to buy whole axles instead of replacing the boots but it will cost more.


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

DIY is the best way. Buy the axles from Autozone and install them yourself. Buying from Autozone is cool in the sense that you get a lifetime warranty with the axles.


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## mbquart1 (Jul 11, 2002)

Harris said:


> DIY is the best way. Buy the axles from Autozone and install them yourself. Buying from Autozone is cool in the sense that you get a lifetime warranty with the axles.



And you get alot of experance on replacing them. Auto Zone parts are inexpensive and have a lifetime warranty.. But I would rather spend twice as much on a part with a one year warranty that I never have to replace than a part with a lifetime warranty I have to replace every 6 months and leaves you broke down in the rain 50 miles from home. Buying the more expensive is cheaper in the long run especally if you end up with a wreaker bill... Buy from a reputible parts store. I have been broke down from Auto Zone to many times. Salvage Yards usually have more reliable parts...


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

I certainly don't have the tools or the skills to install so I took my 97 GXE 5M to a local mechanic. He originally quoted me $320 out the door. I got it down to $300 to replace the cv axles/joints and he rotated my tires for at no additional charge. 

He also did a brake inspection while the car was up on the rack, which I asked for. Unfortunately, my right rear drum brake cylinder was toast and leaking. That was replaced for $83.99 out the door. He wasn't a hard sell on the other brake issues. He said that I probably will need to get the rotors/pads on the front done in 6 months or so.

I got some quotes from other places and they were higher. I think that $300 for both cv axles is pretty good for the SF Bay Area due to the higher labor rates that come with urban California.


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

Pretty simple job. It's easier to just replace the whole axle. I got mine $60 a side and did it myself. Here's a driver side for $55

eBay Motors: Drive Axle 95-98 Nissan 200SX 95-99 Sentra (item 270064632672 end time Apr-23-09 12:18:39 PDT)


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## sunnysentra (Jul 24, 2002)

They are easy, but you do need a pickle fork to pop the balljoints and a large socket to remove the center nut. they pull right out of the tranny with a good tug. replacing the units as a whole is alot better and you get everything new, the axel is the only thing not replaced itself. the boots, the joints are replaced. 

Chris 92 classic


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

sunnysentra said:


> They are easy, but you do need a pickle fork to pop the balljoints and a large socket to remove the center nut. they pull right out of the tranny with a good tug. replacing the units as a whole is alot better and you get everything new, the axel is the only thing not replaced itself. the boots, the joints are replaced.
> 
> Chris 92 classic


This is incorrect information. You do not need to mess with any ball joints. Just remove the big nut and move the braking system out of the way. Get a screw driver to pry it out the tranny while someone pulls on the axle. Ball joints have nothing to do with this job. Glad you're not working on my car.


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## barbara789 (Jun 13, 2009)

*motorcycle intercom*

This conversation is going nowhere. It’s lacking the place of a good Leader to head the things to come out on conclusion.
Barbara Brown
bluetooth motorcycle intercom


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