# 1997 PF won't start



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

I am totally stumped. My wife took her 97 Pathfinder (90K miles) for an oil change two weeks ago. Car wouldn't start to pull out of the bay. I went to pick up the car and managed to get it started. When it did it wouldn't take throttle and had a very rough idle. I was able to drive it 2 miles home. Up to this point there had been no issues whatsoever. 

At this point, I checked spark with a timing light, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. I also cleaned all the connectors on top of the engine. Then I replaced the fuel filter. Car started right up all weekend. The following Monday I drove it to work. Ran flawlessly in the morning. I went to get lunch and it was running fine. I was one intersection from the office when the car stumbled making a right turn. Then the car went completely dead. I was thankful to have enough speed to roll into the gas station/repair shop on the corner. 

Unable to get it started I reluctantly left it at the shop. They pulled the codes to P0134 and P0154 (L and R front O2 sensors). They also checked fuel pressure to find 38psi cold, not-running, key-on. 

The next day I picked up the car and it drove a few miles home with a slight miss. Once there it will not restart. Fuel pressure is still good. Timing light still fires. 

I searched the forums here and found a few items to check. The TPS measures fine with a multi-meter. I replaced the MAF after getting 600mV instead of 1.4V. I also replaced the two front O2 sensors. Even last night I replaced the EGI relay. When the car would run previously the injectors were firing and I could hear them click. 

The car still will not start. It just cranks and cranks with no sign of firing. 

I am stumped. I usually perform all my maintenance. I hate to pay a shop because my experience says they usually do not solve the problem. This seems to be the case as I have read so many posts here with the same problem but no-one posts their resolution. I have read a few references to the knock sensor and something about a bad wiring harness. Which harness goes bad? 

Any suggestions? I am sick of riding my bike to work with 100 deg heat in TX while my wife and son get the other car with AC.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

When was the last time you looked at the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor? Are you using genuine Nissan or NGK parts?

Have you tried cleaning the grounds for the EGI system? Nissan has some problems with poor grounding and they addressed it in a TSB. Often O2 sensor codes would be triggered due to this. If you look on the center plenum (just above cyl. #3 spark plug), you'll see two 10mm head bolts that are grounding several wires to the plenum. Remove the bolts and clean the plenum and eyelets to ensure a clean ground and reassemble. The TSB went a little further and offered a subharness that added additional grounding to those points by running a two, 10 gauge wires with eyelets from the plenum, along the harness to the right side cylinder head where it was attached with 12mm head bolts (8mm X 1.25). You can purchase the subharness from Nissan but it's pretty big $$ for a couple of 10 gauge wires and eyelets that one can easily make themselves.

So, clean the grounds and see make sure the plugs are good and not fouled, make sure the cap are rotor are in good shape (as well as the ignition wires, of course) and see if it starts. If it cranks, but doesn't start, you need to find out if it's a fuel or spark issue. Take the air duct off of the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner into the engine and see if it'll start on the cab cleaner (I recommend that you do not use starter fluid, as it is very volatile.). If it starts with the carb cleaner, then you know you have a fuel issue. Check for spark to the several plugs. If that's okay, get a "noid light" from the local auto parts store or automotive tool vender to see if the injectors are firing. If all of these tests pass, I would do a compression test and start looking for a mechanical issue, like a jumped timing belt. If one of the tests fails, then you know where to address your diagnosis. 

If you need any help at that point, just holler! Remember...don't overthink! Stick with the basics to see what element is missing and causing the engine to not run.


----------



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add that I had changed the cap and rotor within the last month as part of a tuneup. The old rotor was getting a bit ragged on the electrode. I pulled two plugs after this happened and they were nice and clean. they currently have about 10K miles on them. the wires all test good for resistance and I cleaned the end contacts when I replaced the cap. 

Good thought on the starter fluid. I will check that out. 

Do you have a number or reference for the TSB? I would like to read it. 

RE the additional grounding wires: It sounds like they connect to the intake plenum at the studs above Cyl3. Where on the right bank do they connect? Valve cover? I assume this helps ground all the injectors, TPS, EGR and all other associated peripherals mounted to the intake. 

I have been trying to keep it simple but ran out of the simple things to check.


----------



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

I couldn't wait. I just pulled the intake boot and sprayed some flammable solvent in the TB with the butterfly open. Turned the key and it sputtered just enough to let me know it was not ignition related. Seems I do indeed have spark. Of course, I assume that it was lean enough to not fully start.

Next I found the two grounding straps on the intake above Cyl#3. The ring terminal was clean as was the bolt head. The blind hole seemed to be a little crusty (oxidation) so I cleaned it with some 120 grit sandpaper that was in the tool bag. I reconnected the grounds and turned the key. It fired right up like the old reliable truck I remembered. 

Seemed to have smooth idle so I went for a spin around the block. Easy throttle and the truck drove well. A bit more throttle and it accelerated smoothly. Full throttle and the car coughs and dies. This happened twice. I wonder if its clogged injectors that are contributing to my problem. I guess that's the next step. 

So indeed it was the intake grounding straps that caused my problem. Now I just need to figure out how to make the new strap. I suppose I can go straight to the battery negative. some 10g wire and a few ring terminals should do the trick.


----------



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

Same problem is still there. The car would not start this morning. I didn't have time to troubleshoot.


----------



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

Once again, I go out the car fires right up. I let it idle a bit and it is rock steady. I take it for a drive around the block. No problems. I go a few block farther, come to a stop sign and the car just coughs and dies. Will not restart. Its now parked three blocks away and no signs of starting.

I guess I will make a new ground to the intake and see if that helps the problem to at least get the car home.

Has anyone experienced this?


----------



## jpnovak (Aug 8, 2007)

Since I usually do not see follow-ups on such threads I will conclude.

We had to tow the truck to the shop. I used a trusted independent. I did have spark but it was not in time with the engine and was also intermittent. They determined it was a bad cam-angle sensor. 1.5 hours of labor for diagnostics, installation and testing plus a new distributor have the truck running great.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sorry I didn't get back to you quicker; I tend to spend my primary time at Jonko's auto repair forums ( Auto Repair Forums (Powered by Invision Power Board) ). Glad to hear you got it straighten out. A little late, but here's the TSB. If you want the full TSB w/ images, you can e-mail me at [email protected] and I can send it to you:

Classification:
EC98-030B

Reference:
NTB99-004B

Date:
November 30, 2004

1996-00 PATHFINDER, 1999-2004 FRONTIER (V-6) AND 2000-
2004 XTERRA (V-6); MIL "ON" WITH 02 SENSOR DTCs

This amended version of NTB99-004 updates the Applied Vehicle Information Section. Please discard all This amended version of NTB99-004 paper copies of NTB99-004.

APPLIED VEHICLES:
1996-00 Pathfinder (R50)
1999-2004 Frontier (V-6 Engine Only)
2000-2004 Xterra (V-6 Engine Only)

IF YOU CONFIRM

If an applicable vehicle shows the MIL "ON" and one or more of the following DTCs are stored in ECM:

- 96-97 MY Pathfinder vehicle: DTC P0130, P0150, P0136, or P0156

- 98-00 MY Pathfinder vehicle: DTC P0131, P0134, P0138, P0140, P0151, P0154, P0158, P0160

- 99-01 MY Frontier (V-6 Engine Only) or 00-01 MY Xterra (V-6 Engine Only) vehicle:
DTC P0131, P0134, P0138, P0140, P0151, P0154, P0158, P0160

- 02-04 MY Frontier (V-6 Engine Only), 02-04 MY Xterra (V-6 Engine Only) 
DTC P1143, P0134, P0138, P1163, P0154, P1146, P1166, P0158


ACTION

Use the Service Procedure in this bulletin to diagnose and repair the incident (if it should occur).

^ Perform a voltage drop test to check for a poor "ground" condition.

^ If necessary install a sub-harness between the intake manifold and the cylinder head to provide a direct path to "ground".

IMPORTANT : The purpose of "ACTIONS" (above) is to give you a quick idea of the work you will be performing. You MUST closely follow the entire Service Procedure as it contains information that is essential to successfully completing this repair.







PARTS INFORMATION

CLAIMS INFORMATION







Submit a Primary Failed Part (PP) line using the claims coding shown.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Check for poor grounding using a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter (DVOM).

^ You'll measure the voltage drop between the intake manifold ground bolt for the engine harness and the right hand (RH) cylinder head.

^ At engine warm idle, place the red meter lead on the intake manifold ground bolt for the engine ECCS harness and the black lead on RH cylinder head and measure the voltage.

A. If the voltage is less than 0.025V (25 millivolts), this bulletin does not apply. Use the ASIST & Electronic Service Manual to diagnose this incident.









B. If the voltage is above 0.025V (25 millivolts), install the sub-harness shown in Figure 1 to resolve the incident. Continue with step two of this bulletin.








2. Route the sub-harness from the RH cylinder head, on the existing ECCS harness. Route it towards the center front of the engine and then back towards the intake manifold collector (see Figure 2).








3. Find the two threaded holes in the RH cylinder head next to the negative battery cable attachment point. (see Figure 3)

^ Secure the sub-harness end with the two larger eyelets to these two threaded holes. (see Figure 3).

^ Use the two new hex bolts listed in the parts information to attach the sub-harness eyelets.


CAUTION :To prevent damage, the sub-harness must be positioned more than 70 mm (2.8 in.) from the exhaust manifold.








4. Now attach the sub-harness to the ECCS harness at four (4) places (see Figure 4) using the wiring clips listed in the parts information. Space the wiring clips out as shown in Figure 4.

5. Secure the sub-harness end with the two smaller eyelets. You'll attach them using two of the existing ground bolts located on the intake manifold (see Figure 3).

6. Trim the excess material from the newly installed wiring clips.


----------

