# Stretched clutch cable?



## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

I think my clutch cable is stretched, but I am not certain. It is adjusted all the way. The only way for me to "tighten" it up is if I spin the rubber hose that the cable runs into counter clockwise. It only lasts for maybe 7 pushes or so and then it is back to having to push it all the way to the floor and lifting it back up with my toe.

My clutch is still rather new and engages just fine. Should I just replace the clutch cable or is there somewhere on that hose I can adjust to tighten it up?


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

its a $20 part, its easy to replace, you should do it anyways


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

psuLemon said:


> its a $20 part, its easy to replace, you should do it anyways


Its actually $40 here in Utah and you can only get it from the dealers.

And I don't wanna replace it if it isn't broke. Thats just a waste of money that could have been spent on better things.


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## B13boy (Dec 16, 2004)

Clutch cable part#30770-9B400 sells for $20.09 on nissanparts2u.com


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## bncrushr (Aug 27, 2005)

I replaced one yesterday. Napa aauto parts had it for $32 bucks. It's kind of a pain , if like me it was my first. Probably never have to do it again, but it would be easier.


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## chubsmagee44 (Jun 24, 2004)

we just redid my brothers clutch and thre cable was like 45 from the dealer and its not to hard to instal...well we already had the pedal mechanism out but it wasnt to hard


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Mossyperformance.com has the cable for less than $25.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

go to advance/checkers/autozone and it will be $20 or less.

go to a dirt bike/harly shop and ask for a cable lube tool and then squirt white lithium grease into the cabel untill you see it dripping out the bottom.

install new cable and enjoy super slick/smooth clutch cable that will strech much much less.

and if it still streches check this out!


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

are there any cases wherein they actually snap?? how dependable is the cable? mine's getting old, but my clutch still works fine. i figure, if it ain't broke, don't fix it kinda thing.


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

azkicker0027 said:


> are there any cases wherein they actually snap?? how dependable is the cable? mine's getting old, but my clutch still works fine. i figure, if it ain't broke, don't fix it kinda thing.


i dont know if anyone has snapped one, but several people (especially when people have the ACT) have stretched it to the point where the clutch doesn't really engage


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

azkicker0027 said:


> are there any cases wherein they actually snap?? how dependable is the cable? mine's getting old, but my clutch still works fine. i figure, if it ain't broke, don't fix it kinda thing.


Yes I have heard of snapped cables on a few instances but most of them are on super duper heavy clutches or VERY old stock cables.


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

I think some of you missed the part where I said I can only get it from a dealer. Napa/Autozone/Checker and all the other automotive shops can't get them. They are dealer only.

But I think I'll have to check out those internet sites. I much rather pay $20 then $40!

And so I'm guessing from the replies that I do indeed have a stretched cable. I guess I might as well do that while I'm replacing my front main seal.

Thanks, Fellas.


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## azkicker0027 (May 31, 2002)

i was getting the car ready for autocross, then i figured i'd mess with my clutch cable a bit. i already destroyed that bushing that's on the hook which houses the star wheel. i pulled back the accordion type cover to see the actual cable, and to my surprise, rust powder. i figured i'd "inject" WD40 into the cable and it's housing. after i put everything back together, i decided i'd put a small zip tie on that accordion rubber boot, since it's the only place where condensation and moisture from the outside can get into the cable. to my amazement, my clutch pedal feels softer and free. i checked the play on the clutch lever on top of the trans, and it's just right. took the car for a drive, and now, it seemed that clutch operation was better. lesson i learned here. even rust can form inside that cable housing and cause things to bind. i know some people would have opted for a complete replacement of the cable, but i didn't have time and i'm racing, well, actually, today. and that bushing on the hook that i destroyed, well, shimmed it so the inner sleeve would still operate. it's all good.


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## matt1215 (Jul 7, 2004)

I'd replace the cable. I got mine from the dealer in San Angelo, TX for about $30. My adjustment was maxed-out and the clutch was barely disengaging. The new cable gave me a lot more meat on the adjustment-nut, much smoother clutch-action, and I wanted a new cable before installing my new ACT clutch.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

Acceler8ter said:


> I think some of you missed the part where I said I can only get it from a dealer. Napa/Autozone/Checker and all the other automotive shops can't get them. They are dealer only.


i still dont understand this at all.

just get online www.advanceautoparts.com and order it online from there.


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

pete? said:


> i still dont understand this at all.
> 
> just get online www.advanceautoparts.com and order it online from there.


....how do you not understand it?

Here in *UTAH* none of the normal auto parts places do not carry clutch cables. They also don't carry flywheel bolts. They are DEALER ONLY parts. If I want to get them cheaper I have to get them online like a few of you suggested, which I thank you for the addresses.  

Got it now..?


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

Acceler8ter said:


> ....how do you not understand it?
> 
> Here in *UTAH* none of the normal auto parts places do not carry clutch cables. They also don't carry flywheel bolts. They are DEALER ONLY parts. If I want to get them cheaper I have to get them online like a few of you suggested, which I thank you for the addresses.
> 
> Got it now..?


i think by giving you the link, he was implying to go on their site and order it.


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

psuLemon said:


> i think by giving you the link, he was implying to go on their site and order it.


Yes, I know he was. But I'm not sure if he understood I couldn't just go to one IN Utah and get it. Know what I mean? Order, yes. Pick up, no.


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

but even so, would it matter, if you can't pick up (and you know that) then just order


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

psuLemon said:


> but even so, would it matter, if you can't pick up (and you know that) then just order


lol, thats what im saying. if the one from advance is $20 and the dealer is $40+ then i think this is a no brainer. :cheers:


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## no1see2me (Oct 1, 2004)

Acceler8ter said:



> ....how do you not understand it?
> 
> Here in *UTAH* none of the normal auto parts places do not carry clutch cables. They also don't carry flywheel bolts. They are DEALER ONLY parts. If I want to get them cheaper I have to get them online like a few of you suggested, which I thank you for the addresses.
> 
> Got it now..?


Well, this may be true but are you saying that none of these normal autopart places are a part of a national chain and none of them have the ability to order this part because this is a common cable that can be bought in 47 other states and/or ordered...
I can't imagine the economy is so great thier that they would turn down business.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

no1see2me said:


> Well, this may be true but are you saying that none of these normal autopart places are a part of a national chain and none of them have the ability to order this part because this is a common cable that can be bought in 47 other states and/or ordered...
> I can't imagine the economy is so great thier that they would turn down business.


exactly. i work at advance auto and all the parts on the web site can be orderd in the store.


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

pete? said:


> exactly. i work at advance auto and all the parts on the web site can be orderd in the store.


Don't ask me. I don't have a clue. I have went to all the parts places, asked about a clutch cable for my 96 Sentra. And every place told me they can't get it and that I have to go to the dealer. I don't know why, but they're like this about a lot of stuff here in Utah. I just think its the way the laws are setup here, such as nothing dealing with cars can be open on a Sunday...

And yes, of course I'm going to order it online rather then get it from the stealership.


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## plat619se (Sep 6, 2002)

Acceler8ter said:


> Don't ask me. I don't have a clue. I have went to all the parts places, asked about a clutch cable for my 96 Sentra. And every place told me they can't get it and that I have to go to the dealer. I don't know why, but they're like this about a lot of stuff here in Utah. I just think its the way the laws are setup here, such as nothing dealing with cars can be open on a Sunday...
> 
> And yes, of course I'm going to order it online rather then get it from the stealership.


I got mine from Mossy Nissan in Oceanside, CA. It came out to $18.83 + tax with Sentra.Net club discount. 

Part no.: 02N/30770-9B400 -- CLUTCH CABLE ASSEMBLY 

Here is a picture...I still haven't figured out exactly how to get the cable off the pedal without unbolting the pedal.  










I may just pay the mechanic down the street to do it rather than mess up things myself.  My reason for replacing it is that the pedal squeaks sometimes and feels rough in the last few inches when depressing the pedal to disengage the clutch.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

ok, its easy.

on the tranny arm where the cable connects to (not the pedel but the tranny) there is a clutch adjustment on that end of the cable. all you have to do is completly unscrew the adjustment <the thing you have been adjusting because your cable is streched) then just pull it out


edit: BUT!!!!!!!!! BEFORE YOU PUT THE NEW ONE ON! go to any type of motercycle shop and ask for a "cable lube tool"

this is the tool im talking about i got it and injected the cable with white lithium. its super smooth now and puts no extra strain on the cable, so it will only stretch alittle. and you feel none of that gritty cable feel inside the sleeve.


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## Acceler8ter (Feb 5, 2005)

Pete that is very useful information, however you didn't really answer his question. How do you remove it from the pedal? Or does it just slip out after it is loosened? I haven't looked at it yet either obviously...


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## plat619se (Sep 6, 2002)

Acceler8ter said:


> Pete that is very useful information, however you didn't really answer his question. How do you remove it from the pedal? Or does it just slip out after it is loosened? I haven't looked at it yet either obviously...


Getting it off the clutch release arm is pretty easy...I did that last time when I lubed the cable with WD-40 (which helped a little; yeah I know I should have used white lithium but I didn't want to buy it at the time). 

It is the pedal that seems like it would be tricky. I think my hands are small enough to reach around the back of the pedal but I haven't really given it a try. I think it just unhooks from the pedal. 

(checks FSM) 

Yeah, it looks like it just "hooks" onto the clutch pedal, there is a little "hook" for it, for a better word.  I think if I take the cable off the release arm first, it will probably be easy to get off the pedal...then installation would be the reverse of course, and press/release clutch pedal 50 times to pre-stretch the cable, per the FSM. 

I think I will go give it another try when I have some time.  

Thanks for the ideas!!!


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

yes, once you loosen the adjustment bolt just push the cable all the way inside the sleeve toward the fire wall then un hook it from the pedel.have a friend help you. then snake the new cable in. again pushin the cable all the way in towards the firewall and slip it back on the clutch pedel hook. the tricky part is getting the adjustment nut on the cable to hook it back up to the clutch arm.

the cable isnt stretched yet so sometimes you have very very little room/thread for the adjustment bolt to hook onto.


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## SupraMK3 (Oct 2, 2005)

I apologized for reopenning an old thread but this is related to this thread so I figure why open a new one to save time for people that are search for this information. Got my clutch cable at PerformanceNissan @ Puente Hills, CA for $30 and installed it today. Damn, it was such a PITA to get it in. 

There is no where in the repair manual that says how tight the clutch cable should be? There is this flywheel thingy on the cable and I was wondering how far up should that go up? I tighten as much as could with my hand. Should it tighter than this? After depressing the clutch 50X, the clutch feel harder and more solid. However, the clutch pedal still seems to release slow when the car is not warm up. After driving around the block then the clutch pedal feels hard and tight. Is this normal for 200sx? I never driven a 5spd Nissan before so I have no reference to compare to. I know on my Supra the clutch just come at me when I release. Could it be because clutches with master cyclinder feels different? My GF can't drive the Supra bcuz she complains the clutch is too stiff. I was expecting my 200sx clutch pedal to feel tight like the Supra.

Pete, I thought the cable came pre-lubed with lithium grease. Why do you need to lube it again? BTW, this is additional information for future members changing the cable. I release the cable from the tranny first then I use a long flat head screw drive and push up to release the cable clip at the clutch pedal.


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## Char (Jun 16, 2005)

I dont know how new my clutch cable is.. though its past 145K miles and it feels great so Im asuming its not the stock one. Will check when I go back to the shop, but it comes right back up if I let my foot off, even with the car off and everything. But you should adjust it so it has a little freeplay, Im not positive how much, but not too much. Do a search, if I stumble on it I will post the link.


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## plat619se (Sep 6, 2002)

SupraMK3 said:


> --snipped-- BTW, this is additional information for future members changing the cable. I release the cable from the tranny first then I use a long flat head screw drive and push up to release the cable clip at the clutch pedal.


Thanks for the tip...that sounds like it may be useful!!!


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## plat619se (Sep 6, 2002)

plat619se said:


> Thanks for the tip...that sounds like it may be useful!!!


Well, I just got my clutch cable changed today, for $35.00 in labor and I supplied the cable that I bought a few months ago from Mossy Nissan here in Oceanside, CA. The mechanic gave me back the old cable and said it was stretched to the point of no more adjustment. Good timing!!!

I was having to press the pedal fairly far to the floor to get the interlock to let the car start. Now, I hardly have to touch the pedal to get it to disengage...it is a wierd feeling. Also, operation is much smoother, does not feel rough anymore. 

So, a new clutch cable can make quite a difference sometimes.


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

My g/f has a 95 200sx se and I have to replace the cable on it because the cable snapped in between the firewall guide and the back of the clutch pedal. This car has cruise control and the unit is right above the firewall guide and blocks access to bolts of the firewall guide. Do I have to remove the guide or not to install the new cable. I also cannot see where the cable attaches to the back of the clutch pedal. I would appreciate it if anyone can give me any clues or suggestions on this thanks. 
Well I guess I am going to go mess with it right now.

Before I forget what is this adjustment I read about doing to the cruise control module or or something? I'm a GM guy so I'm definitely not familiar with Nissan's designs but I am becoming more educated on them by the day.


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

SupraMK3 said:


> BTW, this is additional information for future members changing the cable. I release the cable from the tranny first then I use a long flat head screw drive and push up to release the cable clip at the clutch pedal.


thanks that does help alot!


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

No need to answer now as I already fixed. It was simpler than I was making it out to be. the end of the cable just pops into the firewall guide and the cable/hook comes through and hooks to the pedal.


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## NismoGa16 (Dec 8, 2005)

Ok, it's my turn to replace a stretched cable. I did the drive belts yesterday and I'm almost out of daylight to try and get the clutch cable done today. The book says you have to remove the two nuts that hold the firewall guide inplace, do you have to remove this thing or not ? If not it will be easy, but I can't for life of me figure out how to get the cruise control module off to get to those two nuts. And are new cables pre-lubed or not ? nobody ever answered that question.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

NismoGa16 said:


> Ok, it's my turn to replace a stretched cable. I did the drive belts yesterday and I'm almost out of daylight to try and get the clutch cable done today. The book says you have to remove the two nuts that hold the firewall guide inplace, do you have to remove this thing or not ? If not it will be easy, but I can't for life of me figure out how to get the cruise control module off to get to those two nuts. And are new cables pre-lubed or not ? nobody ever answered that question.


I have always removed the firewall brackets but was recently told it could be done without removing them. For the cruise control brackets you have to remove a bolt that is in the fender well behind the liner.


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

I just undid the latch off the tranny and pulled the black cable sheath and the whole thing came out with out having to remove the firewall grommet or cruise control module. I'll tell you it was a biatch to try to wiggle the cable in the and then wedge my hand in there to get the cable to seat.

If thats confusing, just look at your new cable and then look how it goes through the firewall grommet and it will make sense.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

NismoGa16 said:


> Ok, it's my turn to replace a stretched cable. I did the drive belts yesterday and I'm almost out of daylight to try and get the clutch cable done today. The book says you have to remove the two nuts that hold the firewall guide inplace, do you have to remove this thing or not ? If not it will be easy, but I can't for life of me figure out how to get the cruise control module off to get to those two nuts. And are new cables pre-lubed or not ? nobody ever answered that question.


go to any dirt bike shop (harley shops may carrie it as well...idk) and get this
http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm









you can either buy the protectall lube or you can go to andvance auto and get the cable lube that they sell, should be in the lawn/garden row. i used white lithium grease and that didnt last all that long, cable lube is made with graphite so that should las a bit longer.


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## NismoGa16 (Dec 8, 2005)

'Preciate the help, but I got it done just hours after my last post. I figured out that you do not need to remove the firewall guide at all, the cable end just slides thru it. The cruise control module was a major pain, but I found the two nuts behind the plastic fender lining and removed them. even with the cruise unit out it was still quite difficult to get my large hands into that small crevice to reroute the new cable into the firewall guide. The swearing came when I had to contort my hand into a pretzel to hook the end of the cable onto the top of the pedal. But at least it's done. I can't believe the difference !!! all the previous cars I've owned had either mechanical or hydraulic clutch linkage, so I didn't realize there was anything wrong with the way my clutch felt for the last 3 years, It only became a problem when the pedal began sticking to the floor. Now that I've replaced it I'm having to retrain my left foot so I don't push it thru the floor. It's like learning to left-foot brake all over again.


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## NismoGa16 (Dec 8, 2005)

pete? said:


> go to any dirt bike shop (harley shops may carrie it as well...idk) and get this
> http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm
> 
> 
> ...



OK, you've said it plenty of times, we get it, you want us to buy this lube tool. I'm sure that the extra lubrication is good and will make the cable last longer, but I still want to know if the replacement cable is pre-lubed out of the box?


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

NismoGa16 said:


> OK, you've said it plenty of times, we get it, you want us to buy this lube tool. I'm sure that the extra lubrication is good and will make the cable last longer, but I still want to know if the replacement cable is pre-lubed out of the box?


who the hell cares? even if it is lubed its not lubed enough and you should keep up with lubing it......an engine comes "pre lubed" so do you just leave the oil in there and never touch it? no......same for a clutch cable, get the tool, lube it every 3-4 months and it should last FARRRRRRR longer than normal. thats the reason they stretch so much, because they get dry/dirty and they become very very stiff thus stretching the cable.

edit: sorry if i have said this to much! but im trying to help you out. atleast im not asking the same question over and over again without searching or something useless like that <not directed at you at all.....just a statement) if there is a really niffty/extremly usefull tool out there many ppl dont know about its the persons duty to let it be known.....even if it becomes annoying :thumbup:


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## Pretty White (May 6, 2002)

These cables suck. I have documented this several times. Good luck trying to figure out why they bind up and get gritty. Why they loosen up when it is raining and hardens up when the engine is warm. Why they need adjustment when you replace the Pressure plate. I have the solutions, but I would rather hear you guys explain it to me. Pete? do not say a word.(shhh) Let them tell me.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

Pretty White said:


> These cables suck. I have documented this several times. Good luck trying to figure out why they bind up and get gritty. Why they loosen up when it is raining and hardens up when the engine is warm. Why they need adjustment when you replace the Pressure plate. I have the solutions, but I would rather hear you guys explain it to me. Pete? do not say a word.(shhh) Let them tell me.


werd...hardware stores kick ass :thumbup:


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## happykorn (Jul 25, 2005)

help, ok so i got it adjusted and it works but, it's really stiff once it engages, could this be cause it isn't prelubed? and can i just spray some wd40 or something into the tube to loosen it?


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

Don't waste your time with the Advance auto cable. I had to replace it after 4 months. I installed a $45 cable from the dealer and it feels smoother and hasn't needed to be adjusted at all and its been like 3 weeks and has a ton of adjustment left.
I know you don't want to spend $45 when you can spend only $20 but if you don't want to replace the cable for a long time then go with the expensive one!


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## truckramrod (Dec 24, 2005)

double post


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

truckramrod said:


> Don't waste your time with the Advance auto cable. I had to replace it after 4 months. I installed a $45 cable from the dealer and it feels smoother and hasn't needed to be adjusted at all and its been like 3 weeks and has a ton of adjustment left.
> I know you don't want to spend $45 when you can spend only $20 but if you don't want to replace the cable for a long time then go with the expensive one!


Replaced my cable yesterday.
90,000 miles on a stock cable and clutch.
The cable was stretched about 1/4 inch in the 90,000 miles and just about adjusted to the 0.1 inch slack at the adjustor. But the new clutch drags and I wanted to open it up all the way.
$34 including Tax at Courtesy Nissan Richardson with DNE discount. $40 List w/o tax.

Follow Suggestions in the thread. 
1) loosened adjustor, took off hook on Operating arm at transaxle.
2) lifted cable out of support near firewall, pushed slack through cable 
3) at pedal investigated, Ok cant see. Read thread again and looked at FSM.
4) operated pedal couple times felt cable with fingers, operated again, lifted pedal and unhooked cable end.
5) removed cable through firewall.

New cable install.
1) Loosened adjustor, pushed new cable through fitting in firewall. Two tries, you can just about see the boss it has to go through from over the the engine looking across to corner of firewall and fender.
2) hooked onto pedal, went on suprizingly easily, maybe a minute of fiddling around.
3) put cable through transmission bracket, hooked on cable end and tightened up so would not fall off.
4) Pushed cable into support near firewall with big flat bladed screw driver.
5) operated few times and did final adjustment.

Under 25 minutes including washing hands and coming in to house to re-read this thread on the computer.


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## Teamnissan (Feb 3, 2010)

*my clutch cable the same thing*

I started jerking my clutch cable because my pedal is half way proped and it looks like i took it off alleignment.....
i'm so pissed off.. I don't know how to install this clutch cable, I could take it apart the only problem i'd have it adjusting the wire with the pedal.



pete? said:


> i still dont understand this at all.
> 
> just get online Advance Auto Parts: Car, Engine, Batteries, Brakes, Replacement, Performance & Accessories and order it online from there.


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