# 1989 Stanza won't run



## JeepThing (Jan 3, 2006)

Hey everyone, new to this forum, but looks like the right place to ask.
I have a 1989 Stanza that was given to me because the previous owner could not figure out why it wouldn't run. I have spark to the spark plugs, I have fuel to the fuel rail. If I put a test lead on an injector I can get 12v off one side on all injectors, even with the key off, no voltage on the other wire. If I spray starting fluid into the TB it seems to try to start, but never quite makes it. I tried using the self diagnostics on the computer, but when I turn the ignition on and turn the screw to the diagnostic part, I get no mode flashing, if I turn the screw back to regular position right away, I'll get five long red flashes and five short, 55 likely, no stored trouble codes. The green LED doesn't light up. 
I suspect the problem is in the injectors or the ECU, any tried and true method I can use to determine where the problem really lies? Thanks in advance.


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## tim vannice (Dec 31, 2005)

JeepThing said:


> Hey everyone, new to this forum, but looks like the right place to ask.
> I have a 1989 Stanza that was given to me because the previous owner could not figure out why it wouldn't run. I have spark to the spark plugs, I have fuel to the fuel rail. If I put a test lead on an injector I can get 12v off one side on all injectors, even with the key off, no voltage on the other wire. If I spray starting fluid into the TB it seems to try to start, but never quite makes it. I tried using the self diagnostics on the computer, but when I turn the ignition on and turn the screw to the diagnostic part, I get no mode flashing, if I turn the screw back to regular position right away, I'll get five long red flashes and five short, 55 likely, no stored trouble codes. The green LED doesn't light up.
> I suspect the problem is in the injectors or the ECU, any tried and true method I can use to determine where the problem really lies? Thanks in advance.




Maybe a timing issue if u have spark and gas...


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## JeepThing (Jan 3, 2006)

I'm not entirely sure that gas is making it past the injectors. I know I checked relative position of the distributor with the engine at TDC and it was right there pointing at #1. I've tried changing the timing while cranking to no avail. The only thing to date that makes it seem to try to start is starting fluid, I suspect that gas isn't making it to the firing chamber, but hard to tell since we've been using starting fluid. The ECU is also suspect simply for the fact that I cannot get it to do all of it's built in diagnostic routines.
//editing to add the rest of what I've found so we dont waste time double diagnosing 
Timing chain is in good condition, valves opening and closing well, compression is good, crank position sensor good, have a nice bright blue spark to spark plugs, Plugs, cap, rotor, wires all new, coil within spec.

if someone could put a test light on the wires to their injectors and tell me if there is voltage there while the ignition was turned off, this would help me eliminate or confirm that the injectors are the problem. I checked with a test light hooked to a ground from the battery, and a voltmeter from battery ground to injector.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Get a "noid light." Simply unplug the injector and install the unit into the injector harness. Crank the engine...if the light flashes, it tells you that you are getting voltage to the injector and the ECM is pulsing the ground circuit. It's quick, safe and they are not expensive. Most auto parts stores should be able to sell you one. I would also use carb cleaner rather than starting fluid...it's much safer for the engine.


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## dapper189 (Jan 16, 2006)

*TRY THIS*

I just had a similar problem restoring a Z31 last week. take the intake off and dump seafoam down each individual intake, you might need to lift the rear end but trust me. let it sit for like 2 hour then take the plugs out and crank her like mad. This cleared all the gunk that had pooled around the valves cause it sat for 11 years. Crank till you know its just gas shooting out of the plug holes and then re-assemble it. it might take a whole afternoon but if the valves are gummed this will cure it. good luck. also and this worked ont the z31 too..its not that hard to pull the injectors on that engine and all you have to do is hit the pins with a 9V battery..you will see then actuate.


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## robsaari (Dec 26, 2004)

I'm inclined to agree that it's likely a timing issue. Remove the oil-filler cap and watch to see if the valve train is moving while someone cranks the engine for you. If the valves aren't "valving", you've got a broken timing belt. It they are moving, check to see if they're opening when they're supposed to.

If your motor has the dual-spark ignition, setting the timing can be a little tricky because of the way the distributor cap is layed out. With dual-spark, the rotor button can appear to be pointing to the proper spark tower on the distributor cap, but it's not (I'm embarrassed to say how long it took me to realize this!). I had to use an ohm meter to figure out which lead *inside * the distributor cap was for the number one cylinder.


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