# 98 altima won't go past 2rpm.



## matrixster (Mar 10, 2016)

I have a 98 Nissan Altima and I went in to a mechanic for a valve cover replacement and o-ring replacement. Now my car won't accelerate properly. It idles a little loud but nothing unreasonable. I can accelerate fine in park or neutral without any stalling. The issue comes when I try and accelerate past 2rpm. The car stalls/sputters like there is an exhaust issue. I went back to the mechanic and his said it's the distributor. He believes that oil from the leak from the o-ring got into the distributor. I ordered a new distributor and will install it once it arrives. My question is do you believe he messed up my timing somehow?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

sounds like it is in "fail safe", try Auto Zone and see if there are any codes, which O-ring was replaced? was the valve cvr damaged? or did you have the gaskets(valve cvr & tube seal) replaced?


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## matrixster (Mar 10, 2016)

There was a bad seal that was leaking oil into my plugs. The external o-ring I believe? There is not a check engine light on so I can't get any codes. I am hoping he didn't ruin my pistons by running the car if my timing is off.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

this car has a outer valve cover gskt and a inner, the inner is for the tube seals (spark plug) what else was done? change plugs? maybe something isn't plugged in or a bad connection


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It sounds like the MAF is not working. Check the harness connector for it.


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## matrixster (Mar 10, 2016)

He changed the outer and inner covers. I changed plugs and wires. I had a friend hook a reader up to my car and it read a knock sensor code. There was no light on but the code still appeared. He cleared it and I checked it again today and it was still there. There is no other code but the sensor and there still is no engine light. 
(The code reads knock sensor circuit #1) 

I changed my fuel filter (old one looked rusty, but inside was clear). That seemed to improve acceleration a little, but there still appears to be a power issue. 

I will check the MAF tomorrow. Wouldn't the sensor trip an engine light if bad though?


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## matrixster (Mar 10, 2016)

I forgot to mention I replaced the distributor and I can now go past 2rpm without sputtering/stalling. The issue is still an overall lack of power though.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

matrixster said:


> He changed the outer and inner covers. I changed plugs and wires. I had a friend hook a reader up to my car and it read a knock sensor code. There was no light on but the code still appeared. He cleared it and I checked it again today and it was still there. There is no other code but the sensor and there still is no engine light.
> (The code reads knock sensor circuit #1)
> 
> I changed my fuel filter (old one looked rusty, but inside was clear). That seemed to improve acceleration a little, but there still appears to be a power issue.
> ...


There may be a problem with the harness connector for the knock sensor setting a code.

The MAF hot wire may be dirty which would not always set a code but will affect the power. Use only ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER or a cleaner specifically made for MAF hot wire cleaning. This is the only thing you should use to clean your MAF. No windex, no carb cleaner, no brake cleaner, no rubbing alcohol, and no Q-Tips.


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