# Exhaust leak



## Deerhurst (Jul 25, 2011)

I know I have an exhaust leak on at least one side. The stud is broken. Last one on the passenger side. I cannot tell if one is broken on the drivers side but it doesnt look like it. 












My options:

1) Find a nut and snug it down
Pros: Super cheap. Could fix the issue for as long as the engine survives.
Cons: Gasket could be gone, Could do nothing, the warped mani could break it again, snugging it back down could increase stress on other bolts and break them, stud could break even shorter making it hard to remove and actually fix.
Cost: Price of a nut at the hardware store and my time.

2) New manifold and stud(s)
Pros: New mani, not warped. New studs of proper material properties.
Cons: Could have the same issue again at any time. Will probably break more than one stud getting the stupid thing off and have to easy out them all.
Cost: Estimate $70 per manifold plus the studs and at least an entire day. Probably lunch and dinner for my mechanic buddy. And gasket.

3) OBX Headers
Pros: Headers! More power! Possibly a little more exhaust note. Will never break another stud even if they warp.
Cons: Have to chance breaking 11 more studs to get the old manis off. Long tubes will be a pain to get in there. Have to do a new Y pipe. Replace at least 1 stud if not more. May possibly slightly interfere with something as it seems no one has documented VG30e headers on a VG30i.
Other: Kill the EGR, kill the AIV. Hope to get a job in a place with no smog checks.
Cost: $140-200 for the headers + studs + new Y pipe ( at least have it bent and cut). maybe a new gasket for both sides.

4) Pacesetter
Pros: Headers! Power! Never break another stud. Should come with a Y Pipe and gaskets.
Cons: Pacesetters are known to rust away in no time. Painted inside and out and could clog muffler and CAT. Need to pull OEM manis and possibly break the other 11 studs. For the "e" variant so some interference could happen.
Other: Kill the EGR, kill the AIV.
Cost: $225-250+ for headers. Food for my buddy. What ever studs are broken.

5) Doug Thorley headers
Pros: Headers! Power! Never break another stud. Should come with Y pipe and gaskets. Designed as long tubes for the VG30i.
Cons: Possibly break the other 11 studs. PITA to get in there.
Other: Kill the AIV. The EGR bung is in the correct spot. They are ceramic coated.
Cost: $500 for the headers + studs, lunch and dinner for my buddy. 

What you guys suggest? Are headers worth it or will it be too much headache and work than they are worth? 

I am currently in a county that does no smog testing but as I will be graduating college in roughly 6 weeks I have no idea where I will be going.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Are you in a hurry?

I just dropped the order last night for the Pace Setters:

Amazon.com: Pace Setter 70-1198 Black Exhaust Header: Automotive $196

I can send you my manifolds, if you'd like, but $200 gets you some headers. 

I don't personally care about the Doug Thorley pretty looks under the hood of my engine.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

This freakin' forum pisses me off! It intentionally breaks the links to Amazon.

If you click the link, just take that extra slash out of the spot between the "dp". It should be "dp/B000CCDOK4".


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## Deerhurst (Jul 25, 2011)

Man, you are everywhere on hardbody forums! Its the same Deerhurst from IN. Was hoping for a different crowd that might have some different insight so I posed here. 

Thats a pretty good deal on those pacesetters. Im going to have to look into those and just drop the cash and get it done.

No real hurry, just do not want to cause any other problems by waiting too long. When is the ETA on yours?


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Dear Who? It's not me! I'm not the same person! 

J/K! I knew who you were. I wouldn't have offered expensive VG30 cast manifolds to someone I didn't know. ...well, maybe. But since you are an underpaid college student, I can cut you some slack.


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## Deerhurst (Jul 25, 2011)

Hahahaha! 

But headers are so much more appealing!

After I finish my online classes for the night I want to do more research on them. They look like long tubes. Should be a PITA to install but probably worth it. 

4x4parts says VG30e headers will bolt up but may have some minor clearance issues. They were not 100% sure as they have never done it.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Yours actually is a 4x4. It says headers won't fit at all on my 2x4.

I would like to take my truck to a muffler shop (not Midas, but a local shop that doesn't charge body parts). The broken header studs are scaring most of them off, though.

Every shop I talk to says they can handle the modifications to make it fit. Most say if the crossover pipe bumps into something, they could build something else to fit in there easier than notching the crossmember - and I think that sounds safer, too.

I may do it myself, but that would mean the headers would sit for a while until I got off my lazy butt. It's hot outside, you know!


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

What yr is your truck? If I missed it I'm sorry but I didn't see anything stating the year...Here's my take! OEM exhaust manifold don't warp but VG30 exhaust studs pre VG33 era had studs prone to breaking! (Fix )buy all new studs Oem They've updated the design. Or order some ARP studs (general hardware) and nuts and call it the day! But if your a gearhead like "I"...Order some headers with all the smog connections so you can run your smog eguipment (AIV)....but you might be like me and your vehicle is now considered an antique and all it gets is a basic inspection ($14)...I have a 86.5 HB w/Z24i that's been equipped with Pacesetter headers, a custom catback exhaust, Nissan Motorsport Cam and passed all my smog inspections without an issue for the last 10 yrs until I qualified for the antique classification.....Do your studs or go headers with a custom exhaust dual 2.25" exhaust with a H-pipe 2 big mufflers, 2 hi flo cats and be different! I've got a built VG30E in my 90 Max with headers, cam, ignition system, Custom exhaust and reflashed ecu...and If I were you I would modifiy that VG30 especially if it's a E not i....GL! I'll try to inspire you....


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## Deerhurst (Jul 25, 2011)

Sorry, you are correct, I did not say year or engine. It is a 1986.5 SE-V6 4x4 with the VG30i. I have read that the studs like to break so I was not surprised to find this one broken. It has done very well for its age but does have low miles. I plan to replace those that break in removal as I am pretty sure I have to remove the mani to replace the stud anyway. Hence, since it is coming off might as well upgrade. 

I am not looking for anything crazy for power, though it would be nice. I am mostly looking for more torque. As long as I have enough get up and go I could care less about horsepower numbers... probably why I like diesels so much. I get 23-24.5MPG highway only and would be ecstatic if headers pushed me over 25MPG highway only, 21-23 combined. I also have an intake designed, should cost me no more than $30 or so to fabricate plus the filter I decide to use. The two should help. 

As for emissions, where I am currently we have no smog tests. That said, the bungs would be a good idea in case I have to move someplace with dumb smog laws like California or Portland OR. I am planning to remove all of the emissions stuff. I doubt any of it works anyways. The filter in the AIV is probably black with all the fine dust from living in this area for its entire life. EGR could very well be clogged with carbon. 

I plan to use the factory exhaust for now. Ill leave the CAT till it gives a noticeable restriction. The factory muffler sounds good but is very quiet. I have no need for loud.


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