# 1993 D21 Pickup



## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Hi, new to the forums and hoping for some help.

Have a 1993 Nissan pkup with 2.4 cylinder automatic. Just rebuilt the engine from top to bottom. new pistons (bored oversize) new rings, bearing, all timing components.

Was running before teardown, now won't start. Cranks fine, but will not fire up and run. Fuel pump is working with 40psi pressure. Has lots of compression. 

Double checked to make sure timing chain and gears were timed correctly and distributor installed correctly.

The spark is orange in color, not bright blue. I can't even get it to try and fire off of starting fluid. No backfire, no belch, nothing but solid cranking. 

I do get spark but it is not bright blue, instead orange in color like the coil may be weak. 

You can hear the injectors click as they open and close if you hold a rod down to each one and listen so they are pulsing.

Has brand new spark plugs, new cap and rotor as well. I'm leaning towards a bad coil, but hope someone may point to something else I need to look at.

Thanks in advance and glad I found this site. 

Roy


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Check the harness connections to the ignition coil to make sure they are clean and tight. Also make sure the power transistor is plugged in.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Bought a new coil and plug wires today. Connections on the coil plug and the ignition module plug are clean and tight.

I still get orange spark at the spark plug.,

I tried a shot of starting fluid down one cylinder and put the plug back in and still don't get as much as a snort or backfire while the engine turns over. 

According to the write up I have the timing chain and gears installed right, so I'm back to scratching my head.

I should get some kind of reaction out of it while cranking whether it back fires through the intake due to valve timing or grunts because the timing is too fast, but all I get is cranking, no starting.

This engine ran a couple of weeks ago before I pulled it to rebuild it. Either valve timing is not right, or the spark is blowing out under compression since it is orange. 

Will use a scanner on it in the morning to see if any trouble codes show up for something that may be unplugged. If anyone has any ideas, I can use them. Thanks


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Still as stumped as ever.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

I went to hook my snap on scanner up, and it says to connect to a 12 pin connector behind the fuse box cover on the drivers side kick panel. Tried as I might I could not find this connector. Anyone have a clue or give me a better location for this connection? 

I checked compression yesterday and have 135lbs average across the cylinders. So it should fire up. The timing chain marks line up according to the chart and the distributor points to one. 

I can't figure out why I don't get any kind of response from the engine while it is cranking. No snort, back fire, grunt.... nothing but cranking. I have 40lbs fuel pressure, and the injectors are firing. 

Acts like a "no spark" situation. The spark I am getting is orange. Hate to spring for a new ignition module, but will if it might help. 

This engine ran before pulling it, and was a wrecking yard engine that I installed only to find it had a piston slapping around inside. 

I don't see any other reason it shouldn't fire up. No connections left undone. 

Is there any other way I can pull trouble codes to see if they can guide me at what to look for?


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Would a bad ignition module cause a poor spark?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If the power transistor (ignition module) is bad, then the spark will be weak.

The scan code reader is for use in vehicles which are OBD-II compliant and use a special connector for that purpose. The OBD-II specification became mandatory for all cars sold in the United States around 1995-1996.

To pull trouble codes, you'll have to use a manual diagnostic procedure for the ECU. Here's a web site that has a list of FSMs where you can find the procedure:

Nissan and Infiniti Service Manuals


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Thanks for the heads up. The engine was badly worn and had low compression before the rebuild so maybe the spark was strong enough to run it then, but it won't fire it up now. Will get an ignition module and see if that will make the spark hotter.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you have a Snap-On scanner, it should have the connector for the gray diagnostic connector which is usually on the right side of the fuse box under the driver's side of the dash. You can also get trouble codes manually via the diagnostic mode screw and LED's on the ECM under the passenger seat. You can get info at Troublecodes.net/Nissan. One thing you might want to try before pulling your hair out is to clean the two EGI harness ground eyelets and contact area on the intake manifold. These are the grounds for the ECM and a poor ground will cause problems.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

I did clean the grounds. As I was putting everything back together one of the two ground bolts broke, so I stacked the two ground wires onto one bolt and attached them to the intake. I cleaned the area on the intake as well as making sure the eyelets were clean.

I've cleaned the ground connections every where I can find one just to make sure I have good grounds.

My scanner has the connector it calls for, but cannot find the truck connector where it is supposed to be Going to try to manually pull codes today and see if I get anything useful from it. I'll take the ignition module in and see if the local Autozone can test it for me.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Finally got to pull the trouble codes on this Nissan. I get 11 for the crankshaft/ camshaft position sensor. I figure since it doesn't have a cranks sensor or cam sensor per say they are referring to the distributor. 

I also get a 41 for the air temp sensor in the air filter box. This is off while we try and start the truck. I did hook it back up but made no difference in starting the truck.

I also have code 13 which is the coolant temp sensor. Are there more than one? Or does the one sensor take care of both the gauge and the computer?

Will a bad ignition module cause the code 11 to come up, or will it be a bad sensor in the distributor?

Also, I noticed this morning while cranking the truck that the RPM gauge does not move while the engine is cranking. Another sign I am not getting a signal to the computer that the engine is turning? 

How do I test the distributor to rule it out?

Thanks for your help and comments so far.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Anyone suggest a website I can go to and learn how to check the distributor and ignition module. Way too expensive just to change on a whim and a hope. Thanks again.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The code 11 is for the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) that's located in the distributor. There may be oil at the sensor that could be due to a worn internal seal. If the CPS is not sending a signal to the ECU, the engine will not start. Make sure the harness connector is secure.

The code 13 is due to a bad temp sensor or bad harness connection. There are two separate temp sensors, one for the dash gauge and the other for the ECU. The larger one with the two wires is the one for the ECU that's causing the code 13.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Where is this other coolant temp sensor? The only one I see is on the intake manifold. And it is only one wire. I have no wires left over to hook up that I can see. If you can tell me where this separate sensor is for the computer I'll make sure it is hooked up. 

Is there some where I can learn to test the distributor or is it simply a replace and hope?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The other sensor should be located on the water outlet housing. To test the CPS, get a copy of an FSM for your truck. You can get one here:

Nissan and Infiniti Service Manuals


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Thanks I will look again, but only one sensor I can see, and no extra wires in that area.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Did get the engine running. But does sound a bit slow on timing. Ordered a manual for it and looks like the timing on the chain and gears is a bit off from what I had found on the internet. So after it cools off today I'm going to look at that again. Wants to get hot fairly quickly and has to be shut down. Doesn't have the power it should have so maybe I am a tooth off on the cam gear.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. Did find some more grounds to clean and perhaps that helped. I did find both coolant temp sensors and they are plugged in. Still getting the trouble code for the coolant temp sensor so will order one and install it.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Sounds like I have a lash adjuster (?) that still has not quieted down. It's run for about an hour now and except for one noisy lash adjuster/lifter it sounds good. 

Distributor was still off on timing. Not sure I have it right yet, but it is running. Starts right up, idles well. has power going down the road.

Soooo.... can I remove one rocker shaft at a time to physically clean the hydraulic lash adjusters / lifters?


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

The ticking in the valve train would not quiet down, so I finally removed the rocker shafts one at a time and disassembled them and found that they at some time have run without oil in the past. So the shaft and inside the rockers (followers) are scored.

Where can you get rockers and shafts that won't kill the bank book? I looked on ebay and found a few odd rockers, but that was about it.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

For genuine Nissan parts, try 1stAAANissanparts.com. For aftermarket, try Rockauto.com.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Well.... I'm back. The little Nissan is at it again. I replaced all the rockers and the two shafts with brand new. All was quiet for a while, now I have one lifter that is noisy.

I also have a heating issue. It wants to run hot. Hot to me is when the gauge is between the half way mark and the hot mark on the gauge. 

When hot the clutch fan doesn't move much air even if engine is revved a bit. When you shut the engine down it pretty much free wheels till it stops.

Not loosing any coolant nor oil. 

Engine was rebuilt due to a burnt piston.

One other issue is it will not idle below 1300rpm. Sounds like an idle speed motor is stuck, are these prone to sticking and can they be cleaned?

I get the lifter (1) quiet, get the engine temp down to normal, and idle speed a bit lower this little truck would be great.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

I decided to remove the idle speed motor today, and it is clean and moves freely. But I can not get the truck to idle below 1500rpm unless I reach in the throttle body and close off the port to the idle speed motor. Then the engine will idle fine. 

How do I test this idle speed motor, should it ohm out to show resistance?

This engine shows to be running slightly on the hot side. With the vacuum leak this port is providing will this make it tend to run hot?

Pulling my hair out. Still have one lifter that is noisy even though they are all new with new shafts and cam. Help me understand this little beast better.


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## rdrodgers (Aug 17, 2013)

Everything is quiet now when it's running, but still have a high idle issue. Cold start it wants to idle between 1500 and 2000. Will jump back and forth. Once warm settles to about 1300.

How do I test the idle speed motor (valve) to determine if it is the problem?

Can you test at the harness for voltage to the motor to determine if the computer is telling it to idle fast?

Thanks


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