# Overheating mystery t30 2007



## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Hello all and happy new year!

I bought an xtrail a month ago and am having problems diagnosing an overheating condition, any help would be great appreciated!

It’s a T30, 2007, with 215,000kms, ST version, last log book service says at 120,000kms.



First I noticed the car overheating and the coolant reservoir bubbling over. I found the wrong coolant is in the car, as well as millions of what looks like glitter in the coolant (non-magnetic). I flushed the system twice with a hose, including the heater core and block. I found I could only backflush the block and not forward flush, however there was brown gunk in the block. Replaced with Penrite Blue and thought my problems were over.

Then a rough idle presented itself which I solved with a new air filter and a good dose of carby cleaner in the intake manifold. I flushed the oil and replaced with spec, as well as replaced about 2L transmission fluid.

On the way to the mountains the car overheated, to the first line near to the H symbol, I got the car towed to a mechanic who block tested the radiator, apparently the head gasket is OK. He found one thermostat was missing, installed 2 new thermostats and performed a coolant flush, replaced with Meyle Blue coolant, I can’t find specs on this fluid.

However it’s still overheating and I noticed the coolant overflowing from the reservoir again, so I’m asking for help on this forum.

A different mechanic has performed a coolant pressure test and replaced a hose clamp.

There is a fair volume of white smoke coming from the tailpipe when warm, no white foam under oil cap. The radiator and cap appears to be new. I have attempted to bleed air from the coolant system 3 times but bubbles don’t stop, there appears to be good flow, but there are remains of a stop leak additive I put in as a precaution after overheating to get the last 5kms to the mechanics.

Also when idling, the heater blows cool air, when I start moving a bit, hot air. Overheating happens about 30mins after driving on the highway, then I have to switch the A/C over to heat, and the temp gauge returns to normal until I go up a hill.

Any assistance would be extremely appreciated!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The metal flakes and brown gunk are very suspicious, it sounds like someone tried several kinds of sealer on the system before you got the car, at least Silver Seal (metal flakes) and Barrs Leaks (brown gunk). If the bubbles don't stop when you bleed it, they must be coming from somewhere, and the only source that can pump air into the system under pressure is a bad head gasket, cracked head or cracked block. A leak into anyplace else will send coolant outbound, not air inbound. The white smoke also probably indicates coolant going the other way.

The quickest (and maybe most reliable) test for coolant in a cylinder is a flashlight. Pull the plugs and look at the piston crowns, if any are shiny instead of black then the carbon has been blown away by coolant leaking in on the intake stroke.


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## Joe Didoh (Oct 14, 2019)

SamT said:


> Hello all and happy new year!
> 
> I bought an xtrail a month ago and am having problems diagnosing an overheating condition, any help would be great appreciated!
> 
> ...


Dear Sam T. The problem may be coming from the head gasket or a tiny crack in the engine block. First of all, there may be a small break in the gasket to one of the cylinders. It is very tiny so it only opens up when the engine is fully heated up and the pressure build up is at it's peak. This is giving the rough or erratic idling, because the coolant is leaking into one of the cylinders. The bubbling coming from the radiator confirm that. Or there is a tiny break in the block to one of the cylinders. Due to rust. In Nissan, especially T30 (2.5) liter engines, the cylinders are fully surrounded by coolant. Please let the mechanic check this by pressuring one cylinders, one after other to zero in the leak. It is a leak problem. The white smoke makes that a culprit.
Thanks.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Thanks heaps, I’ll get the mechanic to do a cylinder pressure test tomorrow.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Here’s a video of the white smoke, the car is cool.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok the mechanic did a cylinder compression test - they said it’s ok. There’s more milk under the cap now, and we are all very confused


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Basic compression may not tell you anything if the leak is small and isn't cross-cylinder. Did they eyeball the piston crowns while they were in there? The cylinder(s) involved should stick out like a shiny sore-thumb under a flashlight.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

they don’t even have a leak down tester and suggested I get a mew radiator, I think it’s one of those mechanics who just throw parts at it until it’s fixed, so I’ll take a look myself tomorrow and have booked a leak down test for Friday with a different mechanics. Thanks for your help so far!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome, but if you can pull plugs yourself, get out a flashlight and maybe you'll pay less for the leakdown because you'll know which cylinders to test. Like I said, there are really only 3 possibilities, head, head gasket and block. The leakdown will help isolate which one according to where the air emerges, but it will still take a lot less effort and labor time if you already know where to test..


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Could it be possible the radiator is blocked or the water pump impeller blades corroded/ broken so the coolant is bubbling so bad it sprayed coolant into the oil dip stick? I only ask because there’s a scraping noise on idle on startup lasts about 5 mins, not present when accelerating even slightly also white smoke not present and no milky cap now...


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That won't explain your white smoke.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok, got a leak down test booked for Friday with my local mechanic for $65, need a new bearing anyway


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok so a leak down test has been done and all ok. My local mechanic is a good guy, he’s a bit stumped as well. He said the oil cooler could be causing some white smoke but as far as overheating on the highway, not so much.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

I just had a look through my dashcam footage and the mechanic didn’t do a leak down test, he just bleed the coolant system. TBC..


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Do you still think he's a good guy?


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Haha no. I’m pissed with myself for not seeing through the bulls$$it


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Took it on the highway just now to see if the bleed did any good, no joy. Overheated pretty fast this time. Turned the heater on and noticed cool air coming through, I increased the revs and hot air started. Could be a blockage? The sound of water swishing is present on startup, very little white smoke now. Could’ve been coolant residue from the 3 coolant flushes. Anywho I’ll ask for an actual leak down test or refund tomorrow.


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Swishing noise and no heat would point to air in the system. I think you need a new mechanic. He's going to be pissed off that you busted him for lying. Your relationship will become unpleasant I fear.
When all is said and done I think a new head gasket is in your future.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

X-hale said:


> He's going to be pissed off that you busted him for lying. Your relationship will become unpleasant I fear.


Yep, I completely agree. You need a better mechanic.


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## Jim H (Jan 8, 2021)

SamT said:


> Took it on the highway just now to see if the bleed did any good, no joy. Overheated pretty fast this time. Turned the heater on and noticed cool air coming through, I increased the revs and hot air started. Could be a blockage? The sound of water swishing is present on startup, very little white smoke now. Could’ve been coolant residue from the 3 coolant flushes. Anywho I’ll ask for an actual leak down test or refund tomorrow.
> [/QUOTE
> Go to Harbor Freight or Napa auto parts store and buy a block checker and the blue fluid. it's very simple and will tell you exactly what is happening. the blue fluid will turn yellow if it's a head gasket or crack in the head or block. The price is less than visiting another " tech". A real shop will either have one or use their exhaust gas analyzer $$ to identify the issue. The cylinder leakage test will not show a small leak as it only operates at around 30 ppsi.. I have only been doing this a since 1968 and was (until retired) a certified ASE master tech + L1 since 1977 when it was NIASE, so I figure I'm always wrong. if you use a cooling system pressure tester and aren't watching it closely you can blow hoses, heater core, or the radiator. Removing the spark plugs and comparing them as stated by another post will also indicate which cylinder is leaking as the leaking cylinder basically steam cleans the plug. "History lesson not safe" Years ago we used gloves to place a paper towel over the outlet of the smoking / steaming tail pipe until the rag became soaked and after the rag was taken away and cooled down we did a sniff test then took it out of the shop and tried to burn it. If it smelled sweet and was hard to burn it was coolant, if it smelled like oil and flared up and smoked it was oil. If you worked at a ripoff used car lot you would buy a can of K& W block seal and cooling system flush then follow the instructions to the letter including removing all the drain plugs during the flush, then pour in the K&W then a day later after it cooled down instal a low pressure cap and sell it quickly. My guess is that you will need to remove the head and add $$$. the swishing noise is created by the combustion gasses and remaining coolant circulating through the heater core and the heater will not work until reving the engine without enough coolant in the system. The gauge sensor and computer coolant temp sensor won't work correctly either. Hope this helps.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SamT said:


> Took it on the highway just now to see if the bleed did any good, no joy. Overheated pretty fast this time. Turned the heater on and noticed cool air coming through, I increased the revs and hot air started. Could be a blockage? The sound of water swishing is present on startup, very little white smoke now. Could’ve been coolant residue from the 3 coolant flushes. Anywho I’ll ask for an actual leak down test or refund tomorrow.


After the engine is fully warmed up and has been running for a while, shut the engine off and feel the lower radiator hose. It should be hot; if not, the radiator is most likely plugged up. Also when the engine has cooled down, start the engine up; remove the radiator cap. Insure the coolant fills the filler neck. Now look for a *continuous* showing of air bubbles which indicate a head gasket breach. You can also perform a radiator pressure test with a tool for that purpose; pump the pressure up to around 20 psi. It should hold for a long time; if it drop off quickly in just a minute or so, there's a breach somewhere; most like the head gasket.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Yea well apparently a coolant pressure test passed. But after yesterday’s shenanigans I don’t know which mechanic I shouldn’t trust! I have felt the hoses before, and lots of bubbles especially when revs up, it appears to related to high speeds or high revs. I’ll buy some test strips online today to test exhaust gas. My made says this, what do you think: ... Chiped valve inlet port- & slightly bent valve- when engine warms, valve stem expands & causes friction raising temp, white smoke from valve edge leak ( get d same with valve stem guides perished on old cars when not used long time - they r hard rubber n dry out n leak)


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> what do you think: ... Chiped valve inlet port- & slightly bent valve- when engine warms, valve stem expands & causes friction raising temp, white smoke from valve edge leak ( get d same with valve stem guides perished on old cars when not used long time - they r hard rubber n dry out n leak)


Very contorted. Occam says it's a head gasket. Have you checked for shiny pistons yet?


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Hrm yea ok, no sir not yet I’ve not had the time to buy a spark plug tool... was kinda counting on the mechanics - can do today


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok finally got a spark plug socket, I don’t really know exactly what you mean by clean, none of them seem to be clean, there’s one which is a little bit cleaner than the others, tried to video it check it out, it’s the cleanest crown and another on;


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Also there’s not much white smoke anymore, no milky cap. When the engine is cold and the radiator cap is off, there not much swirling going on, things seem quite still unless I rev the engine a bit


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok so once the fan kicks on the bottom hose gets hot.

just went for a short drive again, temp went to the first line near the hot symbol after about 30mins, turned the heater on and drove home, noticed the heater blows cold air when stopped, as soon as I start going again, hot air. No white smoke, no milky cap, some bubbles. Confused.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Those cylinders look pretty normal but I don't see any "texture" to the carbon, meaning it may be recently deposited. Was the carbon in the other two significantly "lumpier" or more textured? Also, were the plugs in those two a different color, and are those two cylinders adjacent? The reason I ask is because the heater blowing cold at a stop means the system has air at the top. Coolant leaking into the cylinders will cease when the level in the block gets low enough, allowing "normal" carbon to re-deposit and putting a stop to any smoke. However, pressure from the blown cylinder(s) will continue to push into the coolant (the bubbles you're seeing).


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

The carbon build up in the other 2 looked exactly like the second crown in the video, nice and black. The one that stood out had a cleaner bit I tried to show. The 2 in the video are not adjacent, it’s number 2 and 4. Every drive I’ve been topping up the coolant at the radiator all the way to the neck, I lose about a pint per hour drive or half that if it doesn’t overheat. I’ve only driven it lately to test it. I would say if there’s a leak, cylinder 2 is guilty, which is the first in the video, does it look very clean? The plugs looked all the same, dry, blackish. Apparently they need a 1.1mm gap, to my eye it was much bigger than that, I’ll get a measurement coin today. Here’s another try of the cleanest crown:


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I see that spot now in the upper right, that definitely isn't normal.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Yea the upper right.. damn. Thanks for your help. Very much appreciated. I’m surprised 3 different mechanics didn’t have a look themselves. I would’ve thought $1500 revenue would be good for business!


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Take a look at mine 



200000km on the clock. 
I busted a spark plug and a few ceramic bits fell inside. After a minutes with a vacuum this was the result. Did an inspection weeks later and saw no damage to the walls.

Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok guys a 4th mechanic has taken a look at it and is a bit confused I think.
First he was like, do the bubbles stop? I said no, he said, yep blown headgasket.
Then he hooked up the coolant pressure tester, pumped it to 20psi and after about 5 mins the needle moved down maybe 2psi.
He said, ok so if the water is leaking in the block we will see white smoke on startup.
Started it up and revved the s[email protected] out of it, no white smoke.

Then he says yea it looks like a good car but I bet the headgasket is blown. Then says he doesn’t have time to do it for a few weeks.

So 3 mechanics say the different tests pass, 1 says it’s the radiator, 1 the gasket and the other one is unsure.

At this point I’m a bit lost and looking for some direction please.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

That crown looks real clean Otomodo


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

If it was the radiator leaking you would see it leaking and there should be steam. If you didn't see actual drips there would be white dried residue on the leak area.
I say head gasket, no doubt.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> Then he hooked up the coolant pressure tester, pumped it to 20psi and after about 5 mins the needle moved down maybe 2psi.


Did he top it up and bleed it before testing? If not, the water level was probably below the gasket and all that leaked was air. My very clear bet is a bad head gasket.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

He topped it up but didn’t bleed it. You’re probably right, I’ll buy a block tester and test for exhaust gasses. Could a failing water pump seal cause bubbling? I’m doubting because of the lack of white smoke and milk, and the problem started only after I flushed the cooling system myself, I tried to flush the system from the top and it wasn’t working, maybe the 4bars of pressure damaged the water pump seal? I drove up the mountains before I had overheating with no problems, I flushed the system because it had the wrong coolant in it.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

I put on a new radiator cap and almost straight away noticed a fresh coolant smell. Drove for 5 mins, overheated a bit, heater on, went home. Opened the bonnet and damn I’ve never seen it bubbling so bad, coolant everywhere.


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

SamT said:


> He topped it up but didn’t bleed it. You’re probably right, I’ll buy a block tester and test for exhaust gasses. Could a failing water pump seal cause bubbling? I’m doubting because of the lack of white smoke and milk, and the problem started only after I flushed the cooling system myself, I tried to flush the system from the top and it wasn’t working, maybe the 4bars of pressure damaged the water pump seal? I drove up the mountains before I had overheating with no problems, I flushed the system because it had the wrong coolant in it.


Could the piston be above the head gasket when he tested it?
It could be the reason it didn't lost any pressure.



Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

SamT said:


> That crown looks real clean Otomodo


I ve been using rogaine... oh ho! you mean the piston crown!
I ve poured some lucas cleaning stuff in the gas tank.

Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Just got a quote, $2850... what do you think?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> Could a failing water pump seal cause bubbling? I’m doubting because of the lack of white smoke and milk, and the problem started only after I flushed the cooling system myself, I tried to flush the system from the top and it wasn’t working, maybe the 4bars of pressure damaged the water pump seal? I drove up the mountains before I had overheating with no problems, I flushed the system because it had the wrong coolant in it.


No, if the WP seal was leaking you'd have coolant dripping out the weep hole. Look, here's the deal. A very small leak into #2 (which is what the flashlight implied), will only involve the crankcase if it crosses an oil passage. Keep in mind that on the compression stroke, air is being forced into the cooling system at compression pressure, 120 psi or more. During the intake stroke the negative pressure is very small by comparison, so coolant transfer the other way will be correspondingly small. That's your "upper right dot" on #2. The head gasket is near the very top of the jacket, so even a small amount of coolant loss will drop the coolant level too far to allow any flow into the cylinder after the car is shut down, hence no white cloud. _Ipso facto_, the only thing that fits _all_ your symptoms is a tiny leak between #2 and the cooling jacket, not involving the oiling system.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SamT said:


> He topped it up but didn’t bleed it. You’re probably right, I’ll buy a block tester and test for exhaust gasses. Could a failing water pump seal cause bubbling? I’m doubting because of the lack of white smoke and milk, and the problem started only after I flushed the cooling system myself, I tried to flush the system from the top and it wasn’t working, maybe the 4bars of pressure damaged the water pump seal? I drove up the mountains before I had overheating with no problems, I flushed the system because it had the wrong coolant in it.


I assume a portable radiator pressure tester for checking leaks was used; however pumping it up to 4 bars (58 psi) is crazy. With that super high pressure, a good way to blow out a radiator, heater core, water pump seal, damage hoses. The maximum test pressure should be 1.5 bars (22 psi).


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> Just got a quote, $2850... what do you think?


Seems a tad high, depending on the labor rate, but with the _caveat_ that we can't get much info about Exxies here in the 'States. I'd assume your 2.0 is in the same ballpark as a 2.5 Altima for labor, and Motor lists 13.8 hours for that, Chilton 13.1.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

It looks a lot like a Sentra engine, 2.5L not a CVT, listed as 11.7 hours


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

rogoman said:


> pumping it up to 4 bars (58 psi) is crazy. With that super high pressure, a good way to blow out a radiator, heater core, water pump seal, damage hoses. The maximum test pressure should be 1.5 bars (22 psi).


No no, I used a water hose (4bars) to flush the coolant and didn’t know you can only backflush. Was it this that caused the gasket leak?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> No no, I used a water hose (4bars) to flush the coolant and didn’t know you can only backflush. Was it this that caused the gasket leak?


Yowch, yes, it could have. That's way too much pressure even for a flush.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Faaaaaa


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Faaaaaa, no bur the radiator fluid was bubbling over the reservoir with the wrong coolant as well that’s why o flushed it first.. could the wrong coolant currently in it cause this?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> could the wrong coolant currently in it cause this?


No, but it can cause corrosion or electrolysis that will worsen the breach in the gasket.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok, that’s it, day off today, I’m buying a combustion leak tester, I need to see it for myself!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)




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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

It turned green...


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

SamT said:


> It turned green...


Told ya.


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

A head gasket is only about $40. That leaves $2800 for labour, coolant and shop materials. We'll say $2700 for labour for 12 hours = $225/hr.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

X-hale said:


> A head gasket is only about $40. That leaves $2800 for labour, coolant and shop materials. We'll say $2700 for labour for 12 hours = $225/hr.


I agree. The longest 4-cyl head gasket I could find for a US Nissan 4-cyl is 19 hours. That still comes to $142, which is probably average dealer rate here. Your Exxie is probably less than 19, and for any private shop that would be very high.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

I’m still trying the test again haha sigh 😔


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

VStar650CL said:


> I agree. The longest 4-cyl head gasket I could find for a US Nissan 4-cyl is 19 hours. That still comes to $142, which is probably average dealer rate here. Your Exxie is probably less than 19, and for any private shop that would be very high.


Sound about right in AUD then... dang


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Green again, with a yellow tint. Damn. Thanks again all, any recommendations on whether I should try blue devil?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

As Bill Murray once said... "_It's gonna bloooooowwwwww!_" There's no sealer except oatmeal that works for long on a head gasket, and oatmeal in an aluminum block is bye-bye block. Might help you sell it if you choose to be brutally dishonest. Otherwise, bite the bullet and get it fixed.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Yea it’s just not in my blood.. being so dishonest.. well I only paid $5K what’s another 3... but is it better just to get a new engine?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

It might be, yah. It will actually be less labor to swap in a good used one, and I understand the model is fairly popular so the JY's should have some engines.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

PS - Just a thought, but it's a tiny leak, and the gasket isn't such a hard job with the engine out of the car. You might well be able to sell it as a rebuldable core and get a bit of your money back.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Hey that’s a good idea, thanks for your help and time!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome, good luck with it!


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Just got a quote for $2K from a highly rated mechanic on Airtasker, might take it


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That sounds entirely reasonable if the guy and the used motor are both good.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Price was for head gasket replacement, resurfacing the head, cleaning, new head bolts, all new seals, coolant & oil...


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Just do it!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

X-hale said:


> Just do it!


Yep, should be good as new with proper machining, and that's a good price either way.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

I’m bloody doin it! Ahh!


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## tonyvancity (Jan 2, 2017)

X-hale said:


> Just do it!


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Hey all, the mechanic has taken everything apart and the machinist has recommended new piston rings, I’m assuming it’s going to cost around $200 extra? What do you reckon?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Means the bottom needs to be opened up and not just the top. If he'll do it for $200 that's a major bargain, go for it.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Oh no that means it’s much more than my hopes, I can’t find a cost of such things, any ideas in USD?


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

The rings are about $50 USD, it's the labour that is the question.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Even with the engine out on a stand, you're into at least 3 hours labor removing the pan, unbolting the rods, scuffing and ridge-reaming the bores, replacing and orienting the rings, compressing them in, retorqueing the rods, and cleaning and reinstalling the pan. If the engine is still on the subframe or still in the car, it's more. Unless you got very bad scoring from the head leaking, leave them alone. Your compression wasn't bad.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Makes sense, thank you


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

However I am getting the timing chain replaced and I’ve paid an extra $600 as well as a new water pump for $50. As far am I’m aware he needs to take off the pan and rods to do that. Hopefully it’s not too much labour after that. I have a feeling the machinist will do the rings tho


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The TC should only require popping the upper pan, not the crank. But yes, if he's already doing that, then popping the rods too won't be so much extra labor.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

It’s a TC kit with new cogs and 2 chains, have to pop the upper and lower housing to access it all. Oh good, that’s a relief.. $8000 is getting a bit much for an xtrail, but at least it’ll be reconditioned!


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

So the headgasket has been replaced, head machined, new bolts, timing chain. Still overheating, mechanic will change radiator and coolant pump. Fingers crossed


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ok just got it back from the mechanic, drove it home (1hr) no overheating. Hurray!!!


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Wow! That was quite the ordeal. I'm glad it worked out. I wish you many years of happy motoring.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Thanks for your help everyone! The overheating has stopped, but the fuel consumption is about double (20L/100km) and I can smell petrol in the oil. I’m guessing the bad radiator was the main cause of the blown headgasket. Booked an assessment with Nissan Sydney to check the fuel problem as there’s no check engine light.

thanks again!


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Ran some EGR CAT cleaner, reset the throttle and air, fuel efficiency problem seems to be solved.

Overheating update:
Coolant changed colour from blue to mostly clear, some brown bits in it. Added coolant flush, ran the engine for an hour, emptied coolant, removed lower thermostat, a lot of sand present. Will flush again in 3 months.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Well I think the gasket has blown again. Went for a long drive the other day and all seemed normal until I got home and noticed a rough idle. Got a code misfire cylinder 1, pulled the spark plug, lots of what seemed like fuel. Did a KTee check, turned green like before..


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Oh my! Major overhauls like that should last a lot longer than 3 months, so they must have missed something. Maybe block corrosion since you say the head was machined. I hope they stand behind their work!


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Yea me too. The mechanic said it has a 12 month warranty so I really hope so. Once it’s fixed I really feel like selling it..


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

SamT said:


> Yea me too. The mechanic said it has a 12 month warranty so I really hope so. Once it’s fixed I really feel like selling it..


I would too, it's jinxed.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

X-hale said:


> I would too, it's jinxed.


Second that.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

The mechanic said he’d sort it out and not use additives this weekend.. thank god.

but should I just get a second hand engine and ask him to install it with my help?


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

If he fixed it and it failed, get him to fix it again for free. I wouldn't put any more money into the project.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Come to think of it, I think I heard an air leak behind cylinder 1 last week, it seemed to stop so I didn’t pay too much attention to it. Could the problem be a failing air manifold gasket?


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Just checked the schematics for the intake manifold and there’s no coolant running through there. I did find this info though:


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

9 months later, the mechanic has apparently fixed it again, this time machining the block and head, new gasket, and apparently new rings, bearings, and rods.. paid about $3500 all up.

If I could offer some advice to anyone who has a blown T30 gasket, find a new engine with lower kms. Use only Nissan coolant, and regularly check the coolant acidity, radiator and condenser fins.


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## SamT (Nov 29, 2020)

Situation update: the fans are not turning on early enough, suspect relay or wiring problem which may have caused this to begin with


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