# VG30E Build up



## SlideWayz200sx (Oct 16, 2006)

Hey guys... a n00b to the Nissan forum but I'm looking for input, or just any information from some of you guys that have worked with the VG30's...

Car's an '88 S12... 5-Spd, Ind. rear with LS....

The story so far...




















...

A few months ago, I snapped the snout off the crankshaft... letting everything freespin resulting in smashed intake valves, piston heads, and scuffed cylider walls...

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...The plan and where I need some guidance...

I'd like to take this engine... and bore it a little over to clean up the walls, and correct whatever damage was done from cocking the pisonts a little when they hit the valves...

Also, we've got most the tools, and my uncle has a machine shop... thinking of welding a flange on each side of the exhaust manifold... and see about making the car a TT with two small turbos...

I know the engine isnt a VG30ET so it's got little higher compression, just looking for any advice or suggestions from the big builders out there...

**Also bear with me guys... this is the first engine I've ever pulled/completely rebuilt by myself**

Thanks so far... and I'll keep updating with engine rebuild progress...


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## Big_E-Dog (Jan 28, 2005)

get a vg33 and bore it out and use vh45 pistons and male it a 3.4L then add the turbos...


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## Richter888 (Sep 18, 2006)

I have a few suggestions for you, i am currently trying to do a turbo 300zx swap. You can find my thread in the s12 section. I suggest having the cylinders bored and honed by a proffesional machinist which is where my motor will be after i work out the few bugs i am having. If u are sticking to natrually aspirated then i suggest new forged pistons and rods and moly rings. Reuse the crank if you want to save some cash but have it machined. Make sure if you do reuse that you double and triple check rod/crank bearing sizes. You WILL HAVE TO GET OVERSIZED BEARINGS. 
If you do go the turbo route though i will post more things i am trying to do to my car. Here within a month the car will have the motor in it hopefully. The reason im going the turbo route,though more expensive, is if you have ever heard the term of volumetric efficiency? A n/a motor stock only gets about 85% efficiency. With turbos or Superchargers, depending on boost, will get vol eff. well above 110% easily and safely. The higher v.e. the less octane you require, hence the odds of knock decrease dramatically. 
For vastly great information on building a motor i suggest going to the library or buying David Vizards "HOW TO BUILD HORSPOWER VOL. 1." The book has helped me greatly in deciding on every part that will be used in my future beast. I'm shooting for 300 to 350hp reliably.


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## Nivo88SS (Mar 17, 2007)

Richter888 said:


> I have a few suggestions for you, i am currently trying to do a turbo 300zx swap. You can find my thread in the s12 section. I suggest having the cylinders bored and honed by a proffesional machinist which is where my motor will be after i work out the few bugs i am having. If u are sticking to natrually aspirated then i suggest new forged pistons and rods and moly rings. Reuse the crank if you want to save some cash but have it machined. Make sure if you do reuse that you double and triple check rod/crank bearing sizes. You WILL HAVE TO GET OVERSIZED BEARINGS.
> If you do go the turbo route though i will post more things i am trying to do to my car. Here within a month the car will have the motor in it hopefully. The reason im going the turbo route,though more expensive, is if you have ever heard the term of volumetric efficiency? A n/a motor stock only gets about 85% efficiency. With turbos or Superchargers, depending on boost, will get vol eff. well above 110% easily and safely. The higher v.e. the less octane you require, hence the odds of knock decrease dramatically.
> For vastly great information on building a motor i suggest going to the library or buying David Vizards "HOW TO BUILD HORSPOWER VOL. 1." The book has helped me greatly in deciding on every part that will be used in my future beast. I'm shooting for 300 to 350hp reliably.


thats thinking right there. the small engine bay proportions hinders some of the cars modability when it comes to using the VG30E as the base motor. but with some creativity you can make lots of power!
also check my sig out


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## Richter888 (Sep 18, 2006)

i Have great news about my turbo conversion! If you want more info im currently taking pctures of the car and all modifications i have done to it so i will soon have a folder on it. If you would like i can e-mail it to whomever might want the info.
First of all, not all the modifications HAVE to be done in the way i have done it. The first problem of course we ran into is mounting the motor. I am putting the motor out of a 1987 300zx turbo in the car. I have the WHOLE car. If you can get a hold of a whole one for dirt cheap (like $250?), then your set on the right path. The car was a total rust bucket and was no longer streetable. I made a wooden jig with the cradle in the 300zx. This is so that after making this it would help me on making the mount for the other side. As you may or may not know that in the turbo model 300zx the mounting brackets on the motors are completely different due to the turbo. Brackets on the passenger side of the 200sx's v-6 motor will have to be swapped for sure, but leave the driver side alone. 
I had the mount welded to the frame on the 200sx. This is where it got complicated. I was stupid enough not to make sure the mount is in the right place before welding. The part of the mount where i drilled the hole is close to the edge and almost unreliable. I had the mount made out of harded stell so it should'nt break. The mount is extra wide so that I had a margin for error. I had to slot the holes on the mount to help in centering the motor in the car.
The mount on the driver side on the 200's cradle HAS TO BE CUT OFF FOR CLEARANCE FOR THE TURBO. This is unaviodable and has to be done.
Another huge issue (and this is where the WHOLE car comes into play as the parts car  ) is taking the STEERING RACK out of the 300 and putting it in the 200. The reason being is that the rack out of the 300 lays down further so the turbo will clear the steering knuckle New tie rod ends are a must since the 300's are too long. I have not successfully put in the rack yet though so don't get your hopes up too quickly.
Yet another is the brake lines will have to be rerouted further up the firewall due to the fact that they would be way too close to the exhaust crossover pipe. Watch the intake manifold though, the brake lines may get pinched if you don't route them high enough. Steering lines will also have to be rerouted.
Now onto the firewall modifications (the fun part which involves hammers and grinding stuff  ). Now when you try to mount your motor you will see what i mean so with a little common sense and perseverence you can succed as far as i had. The flanges around the exhaust crossover pipe dont have to be, but i did grind them down to add extra clearnce without haveing to beat my firewall into my passenger compartment. The firewall still hade to be beat in considerably to make clearance. I ended up getting 3/4" clearance in the end. I also grinded almost the entire piece of metal that sticks out along the firewall right under the vin i.d. plate. You'll see what i mean.
Yet, Yet, Yet another thing is to realise that the 200's tranny gearing may be too radical and let alone that the tansmission is pathetic in my opinion in strength. (so unless you want stubs for legs the first time you pop the clutch and picking metal shards out of your teeth in the hospital then i suggest you attempt to put the 300's tranny just as i am going to. The tranny is a Borg and Warner Transmission. A very reliable manufacturer of manual transmissions. It reminds me a lot of the t-5 if it isn't an actual descendant of the famous transmission set in many fords. You could also buy a kevlar jacket for the 200 tranny if it may explode (which i believe it will) for a few hundred dollars at best!) The driveshaft out of the 300 will be needed since the yokes are bigger.
The motor intake is enourmous so it may require modification of the hood also (WOOHOO!)
OH OH OH! DON'T FORGET TO SWAP OIL PANS!
Other than that i will keep ya posted GOOD LUCK!!!!!! ( I think i got everything but if not i will correct any of my mistakes) Any suggestions are welcome


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