# help



## rb-swap (Nov 24, 2005)

hey guys happy thanks giving im going to make this sweet and simple i need to know rb26 25 or the profound sr20 i already know alot about all these engines unfortunaly i still dont know what to go with for examp the 26 can produce more power but the 25 is a lot more stable and the sr is well an sr the only dissap thing is the sr has never won a champ race and hp is Ltd can anyone help im tired of losing sleep oh i forgot befor someone says it i know the 26 is an awd unit but what about the 25 hmmmmm?


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## rb-swap (Nov 24, 2005)

*91 240*

i forgot to tell you i have a 91 240xs i got for $ 500 so putting money in isnt the issue mods are. like the axle where do i find the axle for anyone of these engines


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

champ race? wtf?


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## XTCshri2222 (Feb 15, 2004)

rb-swap said:


> hey guys happy thanks giving im going to make this sweet and simple i need to know rb26 25 or the profound sr20 i already know alot about all these engines unfortunaly i still dont know what to go with for examp the 26 can produce more power but the 25 is a lot more stable and the sr is well an sr the only dissap thing is the sr has never won a champ race and hp is Ltd can anyone help im tired of losing sleep oh i forgot befor someone says it i know the 26 is an awd unit but what about the 25 hmmmmm?



Do you even know what your talking about? I hope you do know there is a huge price differnce between the 3, I also hope you know to go RB26 you need to find a RB25 trans.. I hope you also know your gonna screw up the weight distribution. And what the hell you talkin about Championship races.. you can squeeze high HP out the motor. A SR drops in, you gotta fabricate for RB swaps .


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

Ummm...... okay?!? you don't need to fabricate anything for the RB swap. It's a direct bolt in as well. Just like an SR. Actually..... exactly like an SR. And please stop ranting about weight distribution its really really really really fucking old. seriously. If you yourself and you haven't so much as done corner weights with the car please don't talk about weight distribution and how RB's does or does not disrupt it. As for the original topic at hand all of the motors you have listed are proven motors. it's just all in how deep your pockets are. You can get enough power out of any one of these. Yes even the SR. Fuck the KA and CA's rock too... just pick a motor and put it in.


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## XTCshri2222 (Feb 15, 2004)

RB20 may drop right in., but obviously b4 your lil rant you didn't read his post, your RB20 wasn't a option, and RB25 isn't a drop in the motor mounts and subframe gotta be modified, and a RB26 is far from a drop in, you gotta sorce another trans off a RB25. I'm sorry thats not a drop in buddy. And speaking of ranting your the one ranting. I do autoX and road racing i know plenty about suspension and weight. I don't care what motor you got in the dam car, great you made it fit, dosn't make you a god dam engineer. I hate to blast, arn't you the same guy who was complaining about his bigger turbo lag, but then posted later it didn't matter. If it didn't matter why you complain about it, and great you can bolt stuff togther, you still can't predict what it dose after, It's obivious a big turbo is gonna give you lag it's got more weight on the fan. You must mistake me for a newb, my post count is low, sorry buddy i've built my fair share of cars. You may have your own phylosopy on buildin cars. I'm about light and even cars with even powerbands. And it's obvious this guy who started this topic dosn't know jack, what you gettin all defensive over. Grow up. If you wanna post post, don't gotta act like you got PMS.


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## rb-swap (Nov 24, 2005)

XTCshri2222 said:


> Do you even know what your talking about? I hope you do know there is a huge price differnce between the 3, I also hope you know to go RB26 you need to find a RB25 trans.. I hope you also know your gonna screw up the weight distribution. And what the hell you talkin about Championship races.. you can squeeze high HP out the motor. A SR drops in, you gotta fabricate for RB swaps .[/QUOTE


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## rb-swap (Nov 24, 2005)

rb-swap said:


> i forgot to tell you i have a 91 240xs i got for $ 500 so putting money in isnt the issue mods are. like the axle where do i find the axle for anyone of these engines


ok its me again i hate to say some of you are right and some wrong the motor mounts will have to be changed but why leave the old ones in and yes the 26 is a great engine and yes it has won a lot of races for those of you who think you know what your talking about the 25 is a much more stable engine for high horse power and the sr is just not where it is any more sorry its old news and As for weight move the battery to the back put a bigger fuel cell in it guys this has been done before your not 19 year olds working with your dads tools its a car and if carrol shelby can put a 427 in 2000 puond car why cant i and as for the help i have done what i neede to do im going with the 25 its a much easier swap and you dont have to replace ceriain things yet the ? is should i put the same bore on the 25 as the 26 and what turbo would make good tourqe across the board because thats the goal. not hp all the horsepower wont help you if it cant pull itself dont belive me look at 2 very important cars the viper and the supra the vipers tourqe is un paralell yet the supra makes massive hp but the viper 90% of the time will come oput on top why because it has massive amounts of tourqe wich is what perpels the car foward. thank you thank you im here all week and just so you know you guys have been a great help thanks i ll be sure and check back.


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

XTCshri2222 said:


> RB20 may drop right in., but obviously b4 your lil rant you didn't read his post, your RB20 wasn't a option, and RB25 isn't a drop in the motor mounts and subframe gotta be modified, and a RB26 is far from a drop in, you gotta sorce another trans off a RB25. I'm sorry thats not a drop in buddy. And speaking of ranting your the one ranting. I do autoX and road racing i know plenty about suspension and weight. I don't care what motor you got in the dam car, great you made it fit, dosn't make you a god dam engineer. I hate to blast, arn't you the same guy who was complaining about his bigger turbo lag, but then posted later it didn't matter. If it didn't matter why you complain about it, and great you can bolt stuff togther, you still can't predict what it dose after, It's obivious a big turbo is gonna give you lag it's got more weight on the fan. You must mistake me for a newb, my post count is low, sorry buddy i've built my fair share of cars. You may have your own phylosopy on buildin cars. I'm about light and even cars with even powerbands. And it's obvious this guy who started this topic dosn't know jack, what you gettin all defensive over. Grow up. If you wanna post post, don't gotta act like you got PMS.


ohh.. isn't this romantic... well the RB25 will drop straight in. You do not need a motor mount kit and that's what I was referring to. I figured by me saying "RB's you would of course assume that I meant the 25 and not the 20 due to the original question posted. The only thing that needs to be slightly modified is the rear trans xmember. But thats hardly worth mentioning. Other than that it goes in just like the 20. One piece driveshaft is required but most people choose to do that anyways. I have one on my car. Huge weight savings over the 2 piece w/ carrier bearing. I'll leave your turbo comment towards me alone because it is OT for this thread. However I would recomend a GT30R for the RB25. Mild lag, but it is BB and will definently help you across the board given that you are in the correct gear. But since you are going for the 25 make sure you get a 25 trans with it. I have seen many people get a 20 trans on their 25 and not even know it. Also make sure it has a working slave cylinder on the trans as well. A replacement slave cyl is damn near impossible to find. The RB25 and 26 share the same slave cylinder, but nothing else shares it. Not even any infiniti's.




edit: The RB25 that I was talking about above was for the SI and SII RB25's. However for the Neo RB25 this will require that you use an r32 or 33 xmember and mounts to get it to bolt into an S chassis because the mounts used on the r34 is completely different style. And for the sake of discussion RB26 (r32 r33) requires an RB20 or 25 x member 20/25 oil pan and pickup and new downpipe must be made to clear steering shaft. Still requires no mount kit unless desired.


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

I think I'm going to ask a person THAT I KNOW FOR SURE WHO HAS AN RB. 

Opium...you're saying you didn't have to modify any of your motor mounts for the RB20 swap? I'm looking into buying an RB20. JHOT has plenty of them. I'm looking to make around 300~350HP reliably. What was all involved with your swap? Driveshaft? Mounts? Trans mounts? and anything else? I'm sure you've probably answered this before, but I'm certain this will help solve this problem as well. (Well maybe not the problem for the morons bragging how they autox race and crap.)


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

i remember hearing bout having to get custom drivshfts and stuff for the 25 but i havnt heard much of the 20 just that its a little longer than the sr but not by that much.


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

Yes the RB20 like the RB25 does not require any sort of "mount kit". It is completely voluntary. The downside of not having a mount kit is not being able to use a strut tower bar. However the upside is not being in danger of scraping your stock downpipe on everything. For the RB25 you do need a custom driveshaft because the input on the tailshaft is much larger in diameter . I forget how many teeth exactly...and the rb25 trans is a little bit longer than the 20. I have a one piece driveshaft but I ran the stock 2 piece 5 speed driveshaft for quite a while before that. To get 300-350hp on this motor all your going to need is a good upgraded turbo system,intake, exhaust, fmic, fuel injectors, fpr, fuel pump, maf, and tuning of your choice. I do not recomend SAFC or other piggyback controllers without getting your ecu "chipped/burnt" before hand to run all your new stuff. but using piggy back later for some fine tuning is cool. I run Apex'i Power FC standalone. The RBs just bolts in as easy as an SR20. I do recomend that you change the clutch before you install the motor. The arrangement of the bell housing bolts are not fun to get to with the motor in the car still. There is one that is a huge pain in the ass. With that amount of power in an S chassis your probably going to see low 12 high 11 second timeslips. Especially if your car is completely stripped and also lightened.


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## trmn8r (Apr 16, 2005)

OPIUM said:


> Yes the RB20 like the RB25 does not require any sort of "mount kit". It is completely voluntary. The downside of not having a mount kit is not being able to use a strut tower bar. However the upside is not being in danger of scraping your stock downpipe on everything. For the RB25 you do need a custom driveshaft because the input on the tailshaft is much larger in diameter . I forget how many teeth exactly...and the rb25 trans is a little bit longer than the 20. I have a one piece driveshaft but I ran the stock 2 piece 5 speed driveshaft for quite a while before that. To get 300-350hp on this motor all your going to need is a good upgraded turbo system,intake, exhaust, fmic, fuel injectors, fpr, fuel pump, maf, and tuning of your choice. I do not recomend SAFC or other piggyback controllers without getting your ecu "chipped/burnt" before hand to run all your new stuff. but using piggy back later for some fine tuning is cool. I run Apex'i Power FC standalone. The RBs just bolts in as easy as an SR20. I do recomend that you change the clutch before you install the motor. The arrangement of the bell housing bolts are not fun to get to with the motor in the car still. There is one that is a huge pain in the ass. With that amount of power in an S chassis your probably going to see low 12 high 11 second timeslips. Especially if your car is completely stripped and also lightened.


makes me wanna go rb on my next 240


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## zellx2004 (Sep 30, 2004)

OPIUM said:


> Yes the RB20 like the RB25 does not require any sort of "mount kit". It is completely voluntary. The downside of not having a mount kit is not being able to use a strut tower bar. However the upside is not being in danger of scraping your stock downpipe on everything. For the RB25 you do need a custom driveshaft because the input on the tailshaft is much larger in diameter . I forget how many teeth exactly...and the rb25 trans is a little bit longer than the 20. I have a one piece driveshaft but I ran the stock 2 piece 5 speed driveshaft for quite a while before that. To get 300-350hp on this motor all your going to need is a good upgraded turbo system,intake, exhaust, fmic, fuel injectors, fpr, fuel pump, maf, and tuning of your choice. I do not recomend SAFC or other piggyback controllers without getting your ecu "chipped/burnt" before hand to run all your new stuff. but using piggy back later for some fine tuning is cool. I run Apex'i Power FC standalone. The RBs just bolts in as easy as an SR20. I do recomend that you change the clutch before you install the motor. The arrangement of the bell housing bolts are not fun to get to with the motor in the car still. There is one that is a huge pain in the ass. With that amount of power in an S chassis your probably going to see low 12 high 11 second timeslips. Especially if your car is completely stripped and also lightened.



thanks opium. I've got the Sr20DE right now. and I'm already growing bored of it. lol. I just want something with alittle umph in it. You know, like 2 extra cylinders in a straight line with the same displacement i currently have...(not picky am I?) Well anyway, thanks again for the info. And by the way opium, I loved your burnt out video. Sweet!


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