# 2000 maxima se, all my problems/recommendations



## blazewave (Jun 2, 2006)

I have known my maxima se from new since I bought it from my brother who spoiled the car with nothing but the best, premium fuel and synthetic oil. I got my hands on it with 40k miles in april of 2003, my bro sold it to me for $14,500, what a guy. I am a spirited driver; keeping up with scheduled maintenance has always been a priority.

It has had some issues that I would like to share and would like to hear about other experiences or complaints people have had similar to mine.

My real problems started with the coil packs, as some of you already know a large number of the have turned out to be defective, my max had 2 faulty packs but my mechanic talked me into replacing them all (that bastard) telling me they are all going to go bad ($700).
Next, those weak brakes! If I would have known how bad the maxima brakes were when I got the car I would have bought a Brembo brake package from the start. The cost of replacing, resurfacing (one resurface per rotor) those thin Nissan rotors and the cost of new pads plus the fact that the braking feel from the maxima is poor by my standards, my previous car a 1992 camry had near race car like brake pedal feel (but not performance obviously), would have come darn close to paying for the Brembos or equivalent quality brakes. Well, not that close but I think it would have been worth it. 
Now, my main problem is the ac compressor that is about to go. When I engage the ac the compressor it makes a worrisome noise as well as causing the idle to fluctuate. How much is that going to cost me? 
Also, the drivers side window makes a awful squealing noise, I think the window tracks need lubrication. 

The OEM tires are crap. I love my Kumho ecsta KH11 225/50, oh man do they hold the road, and they let you know when you are reaching the limit by singing there sweet song. Break away is predictable and controllable if you are ready; I have managed to hang the rear end out a few times. It’s not the smartest thing to do on the road but can be good practice on an open parking lot in case you do run into an emergency lane change maneuver on the road. 

The front strut tower brace has really stiffened things up, the whole front end feels more ridged and solid, however the rear end can sometimes feel like it’s just along for the ride, even feels like a pick up truck rear sometimes. Well it is a live axle with shocks, you can only expect so much.

Let me know what you all think.


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## Gapp (Apr 20, 2006)

I too have a 2K. My main issue is the f-ing auto transmission. Are you an auto? I'm too poor right now to pay for a valve body mod. 

My brakes suck as well. I did get some decent pads, but it only made minimal differences in the performance. They sqeak like a school bus too. I used a couple of diff. things to lubricate the damn things, but to no avail. Again, I'm too poor to do anything but complain.

What kind of mods do you have besides a FSTB?


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## blazewave (Jun 2, 2006)

Yeah, the auto trans is a shortcoming, but any car with an auto is compromised (except merc, bmw, or porsche). All the other auto transmissions like nissan are weak. The up shift from 1st -2nd in the maxima can really suck, it either forces an early shift or hits the rev limiter cutting power dramatically. 

The best thing i ever started doing was getting the auto trans fluid changed every 30k miles. i like driving fast and reving the hell out of the 3L, the auto is the most vulnerable link of the power train, you have to take care of it. 

Do you know anything about possible changes in the computer mapping to help the auto?

The best performance mods are your tires, they are the only thing that touches the road. My kumho tires make the feel and control of the max much better, and they still do alright in the rain.

Truly my best mod is my valentine one radar locator, i have it hard wired in above the rear view mirror, saves my ass every day.

I am unfamiliar with the valve body mod


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## Gapp (Apr 20, 2006)

Changing the fluid doesn't hide the fact that the tranny is a pile. I only noticed a minimal difference after flushing with 10 quarts! The next mod I'm doing is the VB. You have to take it out and send it to be reworked. IIRC, the turn around time is only 3 days at a cost of $350 or something. (not including shipping) Better than a replacement pile IMO. Plus it'll jerk you in a good way when it hooks up, ya know? Damn, the wife hasn't done that in a long time!!


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## Puppetmaster (Mar 28, 2005)

blazewave said:


> I am unfamiliar with the valve body mod


From the Maxima.Org FAQs:

What does the valvebody recalibration do and why do I need a transmission cooler?

The Valvebody (VB) recalibration is a mod for your auto transmission that will give you quicker, firmer shifts (which eliminates the weak point in the auto tranny: switching between gears). Normally, the auto transmission is calibrated to give you nice, slow shifts so as to ephasize luxury over performance. With a recalibrated VB, your shifts will be quicker and harder thus giving you faster times on the track. In addition to the performance advantages, a recalibrated VB will exert less wear on the transmission. Slow shifts will put more wear on the transmission components. A recalibrated VB may allow your transmission to actually last longer. However, the recalibrated VB does require the use of a transmission cooler. This is because the faster, harder shifts will heat up the transmission fluid quicker. The VB mod is said to eliminate up to .4 seconds in the quarter mile. Check out Level 10 or MobileTek Racing for more information.


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## Chris24L (Jun 22, 2006)

I have had my 2000 Maxima for a little under two months, and I've already had to do lots more work on it than I ever had to do to my 1995 Maxima, and it had 235k miles on it when I sold it. First thing I have had to do to the 2k Maxima is power steering pump, then rear wheel bearing, then water pump, and now the brakes are screwed up really bad. I'm not sure what is wrong with the brakes...the rear ones are holding, both sides. Before they started holding a loud, terrible scrubbing or grinding sound came from the back wheels and then I started smelling the brakes burning. When I pulled over the rear brakes were smoking like a chimney. Now everytime I drive the car the brakes overheat and start smoking within a matter of about 5-10 miles. I thought it might be the emergency brakes holding, but I don't know where the cable is to adjust, or if it can even be adjusted. Does anyone have any suggestions? I love Maximas, but this 2000 Maxima is shaking my confidence! Thanks for any answers!


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## jacmkc (Aug 6, 2006)

Your mechanic was correct in replacing all six coils it was a tsb put out by nissan and it should have eleviated the spark knock you probably had just like mine only I am l1 tech so it only cost me 350.00. As for chris you need to replace rear calipers and pads and rotors the scrubbing noise is common for brakes overheating and as long as you use your parking brake constantly you shouldn't get any sticking.


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