# My V6, 4WD Auto. Tansmission Experience



## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

I decided that my transmission removal was so much of a pain in the ass I would share it with all of you in a blog-like format. 

Background: I received my 1995 Nissan Truck about 6 months ago from my girlfriends dad, who had it parked in the back yard for 2 years. I have really wanted a truck for years since I have been turning wrenches on the DSM's (Turbocharged Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, and Plymouth Lasers) and have been hauling engines and transmissions around. For years I have always had to borrow a truck or get a friend to help me out. This was my chance to have a truck (a NICE one at that!). The only problems it had were the multi-function light switch and no reverse in the transmission. I fixed the light switch immediately and posted a how-to since there wasn't really one here already:
http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/156563-fix-your-dash-brights-tail-lights.html

Next I began to research the transmission issue. First I checked the wiring to the solenoids on the transmission as well as the shifter select lever. Everything was fine, indicating the problem was not some simple mechanical problem or a loose connector. I began to research the problem and with the help of Zanegrey and many random transmission experts I talked to all over the country, I found that the problem I have is very common, resulting from the rear planetary failing due to heat and oil starvation caused by the factory transmission oil cooler, located inside the radiator. The fix? Get a good used transmission or a remanufactured/rebuilt unit and install an aftermarket oil cooler.

At first I decided I would buy a manual transmission and convert the car. I've been driving 5 speed cars since I was 16 when my dad forced me to purchase a 5speed as my first car. Fun times. Since then, I have never really wanted an automatic or felt the need for one and all my cars, except one, have been manual from that time on. I located a 5 speed pathfinder that was rolled and actually driven back home after it was flipped back over and the gentleman wanted around $500 for it. After much deliberation, however, I decided that I did not want to do the conversion because I thought it was too much work and I wanted my girlfriend to be able to drive it

Thinking about it now, though (after pulling the automatic), it probably isn't too much more work to convert it over, since I pulled all the crossmembers I could, the front diff, both driveshafts, the exhaust, etc. 

I searched and searched for a rebuilt or good used transmission both locally and on the internet. After talking with too many local people who were parting their pathfinders or Hardbodies and the transmissions were missing reverse or a forward gear, I decided I would look for a rebuild. Luckily, I found a local transmission rebuilder with over 30 years of experience. He really sold me when he told me exactly what the problem was with my transmission (which I had already heard from several experts I talked to while researching the problem in the first place) and that he had the parts to rebuild it, would offer a warranty, and was $800 less than purchasing a re-manufactured unit from a shop online. The search was over. Time to pull the transmission!

I purchased a Hayden oil cooler from Oreilly auto parts and headed to the auto craft shop on post to begin the removal. Now, before I go into what a major pain in the ass this thing was, I would like to point out that this is not my first transmission job. I have removed and installed transmissions from Ford trucks, random cars, and of course the Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX which is a pretty large, All-Wheel-Drive transmission known for being a bit of a pain itself. With a lift and air tools, I have been known to pull an AWD eclipse into a shop and an hour and a half later DRIVE it out with a new transmission...I have it down to an art. 

I was a little overconfident, however, going into this 4WD truck. Its nothing like the rear wheel drive Ford a buddy and me did a while back... but anyway, yesterday at about 10am this is what I had:










Looking back on it, it seems really simple to pull this transmission, but let me tell you, it IS not. In fact, I'm kicking myself now because the transmission rebuilder offered to remove/install the transmission PLUS give me an extra 6 months on the warranty for an extra $400, but I opted to pull it myself, thinking it wouldn't be too hard. Boy was I wrong.

I started with disconnecting the battery and putting it up on the lift. I should have went ahead and disconnected the wires going to the transmission at this time, as the entire tranny harness comes out with the trans.

Next I pulled the driveshaft, one of the crossmembers, and started on the exhaust. The exhaust was the first pain. You can't really get a wrench on anything. I wasn't really able to use the impact on the nuts holding the downpipes to the exhaust manifolds, so I resorted to removing the front wheels using box-end wrenches, or a deepwell socket wrench with a ton of extensions and a cheater pipe. On the driver's side, however, I just was NOT able to get one of those nuts off due to leverage issues, rusty bolts, etc. The front diff was in the way and had to go. I removed the 5 bolts on each CV axle that connects them to the differential, and then removed the bolts that go through the "motor mounts" located on the front side of the differential. The driveshaft had been removed prior to this, as it is connected to the transfer case. Still, with all bolts concerning the differential removed, the differential could not come out, as it is blocked from rotating enough to clear the frame that it is mounted on by the engine oil pan. However, I was able to move it out of the way enough to access the bolt I wanted. In the end, however, I broke 3 studs off the exhaust manifolds... good thing I placed a bid on THIS:

Nissan Exhaust Headers:eBay Motors (item 250523068581 end time Nov-07-09 14:45:37 PST)

Now, I'm not trying to hotrod the truck, but I figured a K&N and an exhaust might help gas mileage 

And since we're off topic anyway, let me point out that every bolt and nut on the truck has the torque of Jesus on it. You must either use the cheater bar of God (which outranks Jesus) or an impact gun if you hope to ever get virtually anything off the truck. I guess that's really my major fuss. Exhaust studs were extremely difficult to remove, and half of them snapped. Most of the cross member bolts were so hard to remove it was disgusting. Bolts that were in hard to get to places, where you could only use a hand wrench were too tight to remove by hand, so other measures had to be taken to get extra leverage on it. Every step of the way I was scared of stripping the heads off bolts, or snapping something. Expect plenty of busted knuckles.

Ok, back on topic. In order to get the exhaust out from under the transmission, you would think you could remove the nuts at the exhaust manifolds and then remove the 2 bolts holding the Y-pipe to the single exhaust pipe headed to the rear. Wrong. You can try your best to try to wiggle that out, but it will not clear the bellhousing. So I had to remove the bolts at the collector that holds the driver's side down pipe to the Y-pipe. Once that was out, it was still a pain in the ass to come out, but after about 10 minutes of wrestling, it finally just fell out, and I was left with a pile of parts that looked like this:










More to follow...


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Also, I used a tranny jack to push the transmission up and the front differential fell out of the car. I half-ass caught it but I guesstimate this thing weighs close to a hundred pounds, which is very deceiving by its size. Luckily this little guy is cast iron and TOUGH. 










By the way, there's 3 studs that go through the front diff from bottom to top, and are secured by nuts on the topside. Again, these are a pain in the ass and I almost stripped one. 

I really started to see the light at the end of the tunnel. This was partly false. I had to figure out how to get the starter away from the transmission after it was unbolted. Basically, you have to lift the engine/trans up and down and just wiggle it out. I set it out of the way on part of the frame. The bolts holding the transmission to the engine are relatively easy to get to, and there are only 5...actually six, and the last one is VERY important to know about, as you will NOT see it. There are 2 on the drivers side, 2 on the top and one on the passenger side. The last one is on the OPPOSITE side from the other 5. It is located right underneath where the starter was mounted. In fact, you can't get to it without removing the starter. The bolt also holds a little bracket in place. You will never see the bolt to take it out, you have to feel it and find it. I'm sure this bolt has been a show-stopper for some as I can see it cracking the bellhousing if you forget to take it out before trying to drop the trans. 

In this picture you can see where the 2 bolts on the driver's side were:










Now that all the bolts were removed, I thought the tranny was ready to come out. I was wrong. I had to grab a ladder and climb up to the engine bay and disconnect all the wires going to the transmission. It is located on the passenger side near the firewall. Its easy to identify, as you can see the harness coming out of the transmission tunnel up to the bank where all the connectors are. Also, it is preferable to do it this way since there are wires you CANNOT unplug from the trans. 

Next, I removed the hard lines from the transmission that go to the oil cooler. They are held by numerous clamps on both the transmission and passenger side of the engine block. A banjo bolt on either side holds the lines TO the tranny. 

Now, I think its best to remove the 4WD shifter totally (if its possible. I don't know at the moment), but I climbed into the cab and removed the shifter knob by unscrewing it off the shifter. You dont need to worry about the gear selector, as it is connected to the transmission via a cable which would undoubtedly be removed by this point. Also, make sure you remove the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the tranny.

Now. One of the biggest pain in the asses was trying to figure out how to remove the flex plate bolts. At first I thought I was going to have to use a special wrench to get to them. This is what I saw:



















I almost gave up on it. The wrench wouldn't fit right, and I was scared of stripping a bolt head, which would have been disastrous at this point. A friend noticed there was a gusset/plate/bracket thing that sits between the starter and the transmission!! Its bolted to the block with 2 bolts. Remove it and you will have plenty of room to get those bolts. I would like to point out that I actually got a bolt removed before I found out you can remove this bracket. 








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Again, I thought I was ready to drop the trans. WRONG.

Make sure you go ahead and remove the torsion bars and the crossmember they fit into, located under the rear of the transmission. I didn't want to remove it, as I know there is a ton of adjustment here, and removing them affects the ride height, camber on the wheels, etc. Simply put, you have to get the car aligned and the torsion bars readjusted after you take them out. The torsion bars aren't too bad to remove, but its best with 2 people (which I of course didn't have). I removed the 2 bolts and nuts on each side of the cross member, and then removed the TOP locking nuts off the big long adjusting bolts. Then I loosened the adjusting bolts on each side, which removed the tension and let the crossmember fall out of the frame. Then I pulled it toward the rear of the truck and it pulled the torsion bars out of the front lower control arms. 










Now I was ready to drop the transmission. 

I didn't realize how much of a monster this thing was until we pulled it. I would say its between 4 and 5 feet long and around 250 lbs. Something you dont want to fall out and crush you or smash your feet. With 3 people, we lifted the transmission a little to make it even with the motor, pulled it back toward the rear, and then dropped it down. The job was done:






























At this point I had 11 hours in it. This would not be typical if your exhaust bolts came out easily, if every bolt you went to remove didn't have the torque of Jesus on it, and if you knew some of the little tricks I found out before hand, like the bracket thingy that sits between the starter and transmission, the electrical connectors, and all the other small tricks I learned.

I had to reinstall the torsion bars so I could roll the truck back out of the shop. It wasn't hard but took 2 people. I guesstimated on the adjustment, which was obviously wrong because the front of the truck is now sitting about 2" lower than the rear. 

I know this is a long post. But I hope that it helps someone. If I knew it would be this much trouble I would have let the transmission shop charge me an extra $400 and give me 6 more months on my warranty. Be that as it may... I'm pretty proud I was able to get this beast of a transmission out, and I get to take the transmission down to the rebuilder tomorrow. 

Then I get to post an update showing how it went back in 

Stay tuned.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

very nice..

i'll bet the tranny rebuild is 800 dollars..

if it was 11 hours to pull out you can double that going back in..

i applaud you efforts ..

while it is out you should consider puting in a new timing belt if you do not know its history..


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Thanks Zane! I appreciate the advice you give also, you have helped me out since my first post on this site. 

I'm thinking the reinstall is going to go faster for 2 reasons: First, all the bolts were extremely challenging to break loose. Putting them back in should be a lot faster and easier. Second, I'm going with a set of pacesetter headers that should clear everything alot better.

I am doing the timing belt after the trans goes back in. Reason being, I have limited time to do it, and if I'm not mistaken I don't have to pull out anything thats out right now. However, I am doing the rear main seal right now, and I think I'm going to go ahead and put shocks in it, and new ball joints and bushings in the suspension.

I'll have a new T-Belt going in the next few weeks, any suggestions on a brand? I usually go OEM on my Eclipse, but I was thinking NAPA or something for the truck.


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

PS: You were right about the rebuild price. The guy is saying $700-$800.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

that flex plate does not look very oiley..

was the oil on the tc ??and in the bellhousing..


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Yeah the flex plate is dry. The starter was SOAKED in oil. There's oil all down the back side of the engine, and it drips off the back side of the oil pan onto the exhaust crossover pipe. I'll pull the flex plate and check the seal.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

then check the oil sending unit as this soaks the starter and can blow back because of the fan..


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Is that the thing right above the starter, screwed into the block, with a rubber boot on it? I think the boot was red.


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Update:

I worked on the truck last night (finally!) with a friend of mine, and we made good progress. For anyone that is doing the job, I would suggest putting the transmission and transfer case in seperate. Reason being they are so damn heavy and the tranny is really lop-sided when the transfer is attached. Either way, however, the torsion bars and crossmember must be removed when installing the gearboxes, so don't get your hopes up. 

Also, Zanegrey was correct (Again) about the oil leak. The rear main seal is NOT leaking. It is the oil pressure sensor (?) that is threaded into the block right above the starter. I think it may be leaking THROUGH the sensor, meaning the sensor is bad. Who knows though. 

I will post pics up tomorrow or so, after I get more work accomplished this afternoon. Stay Tuned!


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

in my best elvis voice...

thank you very much...


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)




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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

a man of no words...

that say's it all..


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

UPDATE 12/13/09

Tranny is back in and running!! I actually had it in last week, but some minor stuff has kept me from driving it. In any case, the truck was down 30 days total from the day I pulled the transmission to the day it was driving again.

I got a set of PaceSetter headers off ebay and they got lost in the mail for over 2 weeks. Meanwhile the studs in the exhaust manifold were broken and seized so bad I gave up trying to get them out.

While I was waiting on the headers, I rebuilt the front suspension with a friend. It needed all new ball joints, bushings, shocks, etc. The rotors were warped and needed to be turned. In addition, I replaced the front swaybar bushings with polyurethane from Energy Suspension. I also replaced a few broken wheel studs on the front wheels, which required me to pull the front hubs apart. All the inner workings of the front hubs were cleaned and re-greased.


Finally, the headers came in. They were found in UPS land and 2-day aired to me. Upon opening the box, there were stickers on the headers stating that they needed to be painted with high-temp paint. A few tips for the installation: I purchased a Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gasket set because the gaskets from PaceSetter were paper. The Fel Pro gaskets are much better quality. The actual fitment of the Pacesetter Exhaust and Y-pipe is not that good. It took a lot of work to get the Y-pipe to slip-on the header pipes and even then we were unable to get it to mate up to the factory exhaust correctly. I doubled up on doughnut gaskets to compensate, but I still have an exhaust leak at that connection. Future plans are to ditch the Y-Pipe altogether and build a true dual exhaust. I'll throw it on the lift after the holidays and plan my new exhaust. For now, it works.

I also installed a Hayden Oil cooler. It cools the transmission MUCH better. Every expert I have talked to has told me the factory Nissan oil cooler (located in the radiator) is the main cause for transmission failure in these trucks. I can tell a difference as before I could feel a lot of heat inside the car near the transmission tunnel (near the 4WD shifter) and now it is much cooler. I mounted the oil cooler on the front of the radiator behind the grill, but in the future when I flush the radiator I will put it in between the radiator and the A/C condensor. Reason being, the hoses have to be routed outside underneath the radiator support and interferes with the front skid plate. I would like to contain the hoses inside the engine bay.

Lastly, I was at the junkyard and noticed 2 Pathfinders with step bars (Nerf bars) on the sides. Upon further inspection, I noticed they were bolt-on and were OEM Nissan. I figured to take a chance and get them. The front "clamp" bracket bolted right up, however the rear one did not. It made sense to me since the Pathfinder is the same from the front doors forward. After much consideration, the rear mount was taken care of by welding it to the frame. It was either that or spending another $15 on the special drill bit to cut a hole through the frame. Not only that, the bars will not interfere with anything, not even the fuel lines which run up the inside of the frame rail. The end result is great, they look good and function perfectly.

Back to the transmission, I installed it before the headers were put on, so I'm not sure how much clearance I will have if I ever have to take the tranny out again. As I suspected, it was MUCH easier to put it in, since I put the transmission and transfer in separately and I had an experienced friend with me. Long story short, its in. It has less that 100 miles right now and I actually have a couple shifting issues. The transmission takes a second to go forward from a dead stop. Also, the 1-2 shift makes a little noise. Lastly, when the transmission is cold and I put it in gear, it will stall out as if it were a 5 spd and I just let the clutch out in gear. These issues were addressed with the rebuilder and he told me the line pressure needs adjusting and a solenoid needs replacing possibly. He stated the transmission did not need to come out for that, and he would do it for free if it actually needed it. Until then, he told me to drive it and see if it loosens up. True to his words, it has to an extent. It shifts better from 1-2, but still has a little shudder and it still takes a second in first. Other than that it seems ok. I guess I'll find out if it wants to stall when cold tomorrow morning...


Stay tuned for my exhaust build and a timing belt in the near future.

I know this post is worthless without them, but pics will be added tonight. Right now I have a party to go to. :showpics:


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

*My Transmission Experience; A Pictorial*



















Finished Project, for the most part.



















Painting the headers with 2000* paint.




























Headers Installed










Passenger side header. Picture shows clearance to the transmission. The transmission line is very close to the header...almost touching.



















30 dollar step bars from the junkyard. Got them off a Pathfinder.










Prepping the rear bracket for welding.










Got a shop technician to weld it for $5 since I'm not too good at welding.



















Finished Product



















Energy Suspension Bushings. It helped a lot with the stiffness in turns. Feels much more solid, less body roll.

I thought I had pics of the undercarriage showing the exhaust system and tranny, but apparently mistaken. I'll get some soon and post them up.


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

***Update***

6 FEB 2010

I have less than 1000 miles on the transmission. It is not working correctly... it seems to slip when it shifts gears. Also, gas mileage is terrible. It feels like its absorbing some of the power at cruise. Also, power seems to be down, but I'm not sure because I never really drove it before the transmission rebuild and I've never driven any other D21's that were V6 4WD Auto.

If anyone can shed some light on the acceleration characteristics of this model that would be great. It seems like I have to mash the gas a lot just to get it to 60MPH....


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Spbeyond said:


> Sorry for another post but also where did you get those rails on the bed? I am looking for caps (having a hard time finding any) but those rails may be nice to! Your truck is looking nice with those!


Spbeyond,

As far as I know they are stock. I might actually get rid of them. I'm not a big fan of them.

I LOVE your rims! My tires are the same exact size, they just poke out more. I'm guessing they are aftermarket with a different offset....if you want to trade let me know!


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## CalHvyMetl (Dec 4, 2006)

Lol, I just ran outside and took pictures of my 31's... and yes the bed rails were stock with the SE package in '95.


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Sweet deal. I would rather have stock rims as opposed to mine. If you know anyone who wants to trade, let me know.


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## 92 GSR-4 (Oct 10, 2009)

Haha 14 July Update...

If anyone gets quoted $800 for a transmission rebuild....RUN! I ended up having coastal transmission rebuild it at the tune of around $1500 plus installation. But hey, it runs and drives now. Looking at selling it now to buy a newer truck after deployment...

And I'm in Iraq, so not driving it for a year


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## 91XEPATH (Jul 14, 2010)

I did not have any problems removing the transmission in my Pathfinder XE 4x4. Granted it is Standard (FS5R30A). Used Snap-on impact wobble sockets (SEMI-DEEP) to fish my way past the front differencial. Yeah i broke a few bolts oh well. Take the exhaust out, driveshafts x2, torsion bars and crossmembers, shifter, starter, wires, LH bellhousing bracket, and bell housing bolts, and with a little help from a lift and a tranny jack it comes right out. I have a 92 with an auto that i just rebuilt and it came out just as easy.


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## super32 (Sep 5, 2004)

hi all -

i'm looking to buy a HB 90-97 years. I was intent on getting a 2.4 as my experience with the VG30e in my maxima has me afraid of it in the HB.

so if you don't mind... 2 questions 
1. Is the auto-tranny in the VG30e HB dependable? I know it's different than my Maxima fwd tranny, but I just want to make sure the HB auto doesn't have similar bugs as the Maxima tranny (ie. sluggish shifting, and rather "weak" imo").
2. is VG30e 4x4 tranny the same as the 4x2? where 4x2 is just without the front diff?


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