# Trying to swap my 2014 Sentra Gauge cluster with a 2016 Sentra Gauge cluster



## seanvig (Nov 19, 2020)

Hi,

I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra with a gauge cluster that has a slightly failing screen. I decided that I am going to replace it myself, and I started doing some searching on eBay and came across the gauge cluster on the 2016+ Sentras that looks like this: https://autonxt.net/wp-content/uploads/ ... ntra34.jpg

It looks a lot nicer than the one on my current car which looks like this: https://cars.usnews.com/static/images/A ... luster.jpg

Since the 2016 Sentras and the 2014 are extremely similar (they essentially have the same interior with just some small updates) I knew the new gauge cluster would fit in place of the old one, but I wasn't sure if it was going to be plug and play. They have the same connectors it seems, the only difference being that the 2016 has an extra connection for the cluster. But I did some research and found out that the extra connection is only used for transmitting radio data to the new cluster, and also radars since some newer Sentras have collision warning. Basically the extra connector isn't a necessity to hook up, and both clusters have the same connector for main functions.

So I bought a 2016 Gauge cluster to try it out myself. I am going to have the cluster programmed so that it will match the mileage that my car has, but since I have the cluster now I decided before I get it programmed, I would plug it in to my car and see what happens. Upon plugging it in, my car did some weird things. When I put the car in accessory, the gauge cluster did nothing at all, but everything else was working (radio, ac, etc). When I went to start my car, it would not start at all. Oddly enough, when I tried to start It, the radiator fan would kick on but nothing else would happen. So I removed it and put the old cluster back in and my car started fine and everything worked again. I do however have a check engine light that came on, but I assume it can probably be cleared because it was just unhappy with the other cluster.

Now my question is, is the reason why the 2016 cluster didn't work because the mileage on the cluster I tried was very different from the milage that my car is at? The 2016 cluster I bought is at 14k miles and my car is at 92k. If I program this new cluster to have the correct mileage, will it work with my car? Or is the issue bigger, and the connections on both of the clusters don't match so therefore it will not be possible to swap them unless I do some wiring changes? I was pretty confident they would be fairly similar in wiring, because the 2016 Sentra has 2 models, one with the newer cluster that I am trying to swap into my car, but some of the base 2016 models have the same cluster present in my car, so I thought Nissan probably wouldn't go through the trouble of changing up the wiring harness on 2 different models of car, but maybe I'm wrong. Any suggestions?


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

seanvig said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra with a gauge cluster that has a slightly failing screen. I decided that I am going to replace it myself, and I started doing some searching on eBay and came across the gauge cluster on the 2016+ Sentras that looks like this: https://autonxt.net/wp-content/uploads/ ... ntra34.jpg
> 
> ...


I believe the problem you're having is related to the VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM-NATS. According to the FSM, it is necessary to perform NATS ID registration when replacing any of the following parts:
BCM
ECM
IPDM E/R
Ignition key
NATS antenna amp.
Dongle unit (Canada only)
Combination meter

If ID registration is not performed the electrical system may not operate properly.

I would say that your 2016 Gauge cluster will probably work if the re-registration is performed. Now who can do the re-registration; a Nissan dealer or there are devices available to do the re-registration:



https://www.amazon.com/Autel-Diagnostic-Diagnosis-Functions-Including/dp/B089XWCTX3/ref=asc_df_B089XWCTX3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459533906149&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14718806979812810441&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003811&hvtargid=pla-942560240762&psc=1


----------



## seanvig (Nov 19, 2020)

rogoman said:


> I believe the problem you're having is related to the VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM-NATS. According to the FSM, it is necessary to perform NATS ID registration when replacing any of the following parts:
> BCM
> ECM
> IPDM E/R
> ...


Thank you for the helpful information. So, I would like to try this myself. Do you know of any other cheaper tools that I can use to perform this NATS ID registration? There are many other diagnostic OBD2 scanners, but I'm not sure which ones can perform this specific task.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

seanvig said:


> Thank you for the helpful information. So, I would like to try this myself. Do you know of any other cheaper tools that I can use to perform this NATS ID registration? There are many other diagnostic OBD2 scanners, but I'm not sure which ones can perform this specific task.


The Autel product line has many different types of scanners. I read somewhere that there are some advanced scanners that can actually disable the immobilizer system so that you'll be able to start the engine. You might want to contact them for advice. Good luck; let us know how you make out with your conversion.


----------



## seanvig (Nov 19, 2020)

rogoman said:


> The Autel product line has many different types of scanners. I read somewhere that there are some advanced scanners that can actually disable the immobilizer system so that you'll be able to start the engine. You might want to contact them for advice. Good luck; let us know how you make out with your conversion.


One more question, is it possible to do this process without disabling the immobilizer system?

EDIT: Another thing, I may be able to borrow the same exact tool you linked on Amazon from a friend who is a mechanic. If I do get my hands on this, is it a relatively straightforward process? Do you know where I can find the steps to do this procedure?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The cluster has nothing to do with the NATS/immobilizer system and won't cause a no-start. Chances are you're trying to mate a "type B" cluster to "type A" vehicle. The '16 used both types, the '14 used only type A. You can identify which by the needle gauges, the type A has fuel and temp at the top of the display, the type B has them below the speedo and tach, along with an expanded graphic display. The '16 type A has only one wire different from the '14 type A (outside temp on pin 31) and should swap with no issues. The type B has a second connector on the opposite side of the cluster and is wired _entirely differently_. You're probably crashing the CANbus trying to mate a type B to your type A '14.


----------



## seanvig (Nov 19, 2020)

VStar650CL said:


> The cluster has nothing to do with the NATS/immobilizer system and won't cause a no-start. Chances are you're trying to mate a "type B" cluster to "type A" vehicle. The '16 used both types, the '14 used only type A. You can identify which by the needle gauges, the type A has fuel and temp at the top of the display, the type B has them below the speedo and tach, along with an expanded graphic display. The '16 type A has only one wire different from the '14 type A (outside temp on pin 31) and should swap with no issues. The type B has a second connector on the opposite side of the cluster and is wired _entirely differently_. You're probably crashing the CANbus trying to mate a type B to your type A '14.


Do you have a wiring diagram of the pins? Also, do you know where I can get a wiring harness? It seems like the second connector on the '16 is for some extra features, like AV communication to the radio.









I'm not sure what the other pins are for, but I assume if I get the first connector wired up correctly then this connector is not a necessity?


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

There should be a Nissan p/n on the clusters. The prefix for all of them is the same, 24810. The following variants are compatible with '14 wiring:
-3SG0A
-3SG1A
-4AT0A
-9AM0C
-9AM0D
-3YU0A

These variants are NOT compatible:
-3YU1A
-3YU1B
-3YU9A
-3YU9B
-4FU1A

Just checked the WD for both types and the type B has ground on pin 1, type A has CAN-H on the same pin. So a type B _will_ crash your CANbus and disable the car, no question.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

seanvig said:


> Do you have a wiring diagram of the pins? Also, do you know where I can get a wiring harness? It seems like the second connector on the '16 is for some extra features, like AV communication to the radio.
> View attachment 6894
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what the other pins are for, but I assume if I get the first connector wired up correctly then this connector is not a necessity?


Your answer is right there in the diagram, both CAN lines are on the second connector so it's absolutely necessary. Even if you find the right connector and cross-match the diagrams, virtually every wire on the main connector will need to move. The pinout is _completely_ different. Changing the Main Harness isn't an option either, because the interfacing to the Engine Room and Body Harnesses is different also. There are tons of the compatible versions on eBay, save yourself the grief.


----------



## seanvig (Nov 19, 2020)

VStar650CL said:


> Your answer is right there in the diagram, both CAN lines are on the second connector so it's absolutely necessary. Even if you find the right connector and cross-match the diagrams, virtually every wire on the main connector will need to move. The pinout is _completely_ different. Changing the Main Harness isn't an option either, because the interfacing to the Engine Room and Body Harnesses is different also. There are tons of the compatible versions on eBay, save yourself the grief.


Welp, that's a bummer. Luckily I'm able to return the other gauge cluster I bought. Thanks for the help.


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome, sorry I couldn't offer better news. Chances are the graphics wouldn't work right even if you corrected the wires, that's what the AV Unit connections were all about. Put the right part number for your existing cluster into the eBay search bar, they seem to have plenty of all the '14 p/n's. Btw, most cluster shops can't adjust mileage on most Nissan clusters past '09 or so, so you probably need to use Nissan's "official" cluster shop, Model Electronics in Mahwah NJ. Fortunately they're good with turnaround and not hugely expensive.


----------



## maioranacia5 (15 d ago)

2014 sentra digital gauge cluster swap some guy here swap the wiring harness for the model that came whit the digital dash and work


----------



## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

maioranacia5 said:


> 2014 sentra digital gauge cluster swap some guy here swap the wiring harness for the model that came whit the digital dash and work


Swapping the Main Harness will do it, but that's not a job for the unskilled or faint of heart. The dashpad and console both need to come out. You could also have issues with things like the power windows if you don't identify exactly the right swap harness.


----------

