# Pathfinder won't charge battery



## Thrasher1995 (Aug 19, 2006)

I've got a tough problem here. My 1995 pathfinder has stopped charging the battery.

The alternator tests good in repeated tests and is ~ 1 year old. Previous alternator had bad voltage regulator (after 7 years good) and was replaced. Problem started occurring 3 months ago with first symptom being rare (1-2 per hour) bursts of static in the radio.

Battery is new and tests good. It can be charged outside of this truck to where the Pathfinder will run for 20 hours or more.

When in the Pathfinder the battery discharges over a period of 20 to 50 hours of driving and the Pathfinder will not start. After jump start the battery will not charge and truck will stop after less than a minute. When running with headlights on the headlights and console lights brighten and dim every minute or two.

Tests shows that (a) alternator output is turning on and off with 13.7 or more volts showing at the battery when it running and 12.6 volts when it is not running, (b) SUV will not run solely on alternator for more than 3 minutes, (c) SUV will run for extended periods (many hours) with slow battery drain proportional to the electrical load. When the battery finally reaches dead state, the truck will run on alternator for less than 5 mintes then quit.

I've checked for parasitic drains and can't find any. I've not been able to find any shorts to ground within the charging system. I've adjusted belt tension from normal to very tight to with no effect on this problem.

Anyone have any ideas at all how to proceed with diagnosis or what this problem might be?


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

It's probably one of two things:

1 Are the cables in good condition ?

2 The alternator is faulty - was this a rebuilt unit ? A static test may show it's ok but a dynamic test might show a problem


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## Thrasher1995 (Aug 19, 2006)

*yeah, i know*



golfer said:


> It's probably one of two things:
> 
> 1 Are the cables in good condition ?
> 
> 2 The alternator is faulty - was this a rebuilt unit ? A static test may show it's ok but a dynamic test might show a problem


The thick double wire between the alternator and the battery is in good shape. All the wires at the triple splitter at the battery seem good. I replaced one wire at the 1x4 battery wire splitter that had bad contact from me shorting it. The heavy split from the alternator that goes off and vanishes into limbo is ??? since I can't find the other end. The heavy wire that goes from battery to the alternator plug is in good shape. The tiny thin wire that goes to the plug also goes off into limbo so I can't measure that one either.

If the new alternator is faulty, how can I prove it? It's passing the load tests at two retailers.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

When the static appears on the radio and / or when the lights are dimming does the battery light come on??

The alternator is not getting any excitation voltage for the field coils that's probably why it stops running in about 3 minutes. This is usually a wire from the battery through a fusible link to the " S " terminal on the alternator.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

Thrasher1995 said:


> The thick double wire between the alternator and the battery is in good shape. All the wires at the triple splitter at the battery seem good. I replaced one wire at the 1x4 battery wire splitter that had bad contact from me shorting it. The heavy split from the alternator that goes off and vanishes into limbo is ??? since I can't find the other end. The heavy wire that goes from battery to the alternator plug is in good shape. The tiny thin wire that goes to the plug also goes off into limbo so I can't measure that one either.
> 
> If the new alternator is faulty, how can I prove it? It's passing the load tests at two retailers.



When you say it passes load tests at two retailers , is this done at one of those bench testers ( *static test *) in the store ? 

If it's being tested in the vehicle while running ( *dynamic test *) that's a different story.


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## Thrasher1995 (Aug 19, 2006)

*thanks for helping out*



golfer said:


> When the static appears on the radio and / or when the lights are dimming does the battery light come on??
> 
> The alternator is not getting any excitation voltage for the field coils that's probably why it stops running in about 3 minutes. This is usually a wire from the battery through a fusible link to the " S " terminal on the alternator.


Battery light has never come on during the noise problem or light flicker. Never at all when the engine was running, for that matter.

The excitation voltage theory makes sense, but the wire from the battery to this terminal tests out as sound using ohmmeter and continuity light. I've no fusible links anywhere that I can find, only Fisher Price sized plugs between wire harnesses.



golfer said:


> If it's being tested in the vehicle while running ( dynamic test ) that's a different story


When the alternator is in the vehicle and it's ON, it outputs 13.7 Volts. When the alternator is OFF, I get battery voltage of 12.1 to 12.6 volts depending on charge state. I can tell the operation state by the sound the alternator makes. It switches off and on periodically while idling. That's expected as far as I can tell. When the battery reaches some high level of charge (I've no idea how the alternator knows) the alternator should kick off. So I am at a loss to design a proper dynamic test that gives me a pass or fail. The alternator seems to be alternating. Yet the battery will drain down under 12 volts output.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

*Was this a rebuilt alternator ??*

Interesting, when you say by the sound it makes you can tell if it's on or off , is this a noticeable load on the engine or a sound similar to the A/C compressor cycling ??


The alternator is basically an electric motor ; instead of electrical energy in to turn and mechanical energy output it uses mechanical energy in to turn and electrical energy output. The electricity produced is Alternating Current ( approx. 29vAC not good for automotive electrics ). 

The *diodes* inside convert this to Direct Current ( approx. 14.5vDC ) used for automotive electrics. The *regulator* , now contained inside the alternator , is used to control ( regulates ) the electricity flow ( when and how long ) to maintain the battery.

The Diodes and the Regulator are electronic components and won't make noise unlike a relay. So when you say sound that perplexes me.


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## Terrano R3m (Aug 14, 2006)

If the alternator voltage is ok as tested, have you checked for amps? How many amps does your alternator gives? The amount of ampherage being produced by your alternator is the one which charges your batteries. If it does not produce sufficient ampherage, then that might be your problem.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

The alternator is rated at 70 amps maximum but will vary depending on things like rpm , load on charging system.

Here are the specs. on your alternator :

70 amps rated output

approx. 22a / 1300 rpm

50a / 2500 rpm

67a / 5000 rpm

minimum rpm - 950

I doubt the average person would have a test meter rated for these D. C. amp ratings.

There is two options to consider :

1 - *replace the alternator* The economical priced rebuilds are hit and miss , I've gone through this before , the premium rebuilds are usually better . I usually rebuild my own when possible.

2 - take the vehicle to a shop where they can do a *dynamic* test on the charging system. The equipment they have will check the alternator output , while in the vehicle , at different loads and different rpm. This will definitely tell you what's wrong.


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## Thrasher1995 (Aug 19, 2006)

*Just normal mechanical noise*



golfer said:


> *Was this a rebuilt alternator ??*


I can't tell if the alternator is rebuilt, but it is likely given the age of the truck. The alternator is in warranty. I can have it replaced if I can prove that it is bad. Finding the last one was quite an affair. My truck is a transition model and _everyone's_ computer has the wrong alternator listed. So I had parts guys digging though boxes for hours until we finally found the one that physically and electrically matched.

That makes me want to be diligent on things I can fix myself before going through the whole 'No, this ISN'T the right part, no matter what that computer says' routine at half a dozen parts shops again.



golfer said:


> *Interesting, when you say by the sound it makes you can tell if it's on or off , is this a noticeable load on the engine or a sound similar to the A/C compressor cycling ??*


*

The sound is belt rustle and mechanical hum as load is added to the engine. It's not bad bearings or fried brushes. I've checked the alternator spindle turn and it is free and smooth.



Terrano R3m said:



If the alternator voltage is ok as tested, have you checked for amps?

Click to expand...

I don't have the tools for anything that high amperage. The bench test report says amp output is sufficient under a static load. My observation is that the derned thing isn't always running when it should be. To me that says the regulator is shot, or that whatever triggers the regulator isn't connected. Dunno how to prove if either of those things are the case, when it works sometimes and the wires show continuity all through.

Thanks again for the help, folks.*


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

Do you still have the old alternator or did you have to turn it in for core exchange ??


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## Thrasher1995 (Aug 19, 2006)

Turned in for core exchange ;(


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

I fail to see what your dilemma is. The alternator is not working, why don't you just replace it?


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## vesposit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Alternator Won't Charge*

I have a similar problem w/ 94 Sentra.
I connected a Vmeter inside and can see it charge than all of sudden drop to 12.5v.
It will start charging again.
I too can tell by the load on the engine when the Alt is charging and when it is not. Sound is similar to AC kicking in and out.

I think the problem is with the Trigger wire... this goes from L terminal on Alt to Batt but thru the Bat light dash and 10a fuse. This wire is how the Alt knows when to charge the battery.

If the wire is broken or intermittent or fuse gone, or even if Batt light is out the circuit is NOT complete. The Alt will NOT charge and you will NOT get a Batt light.

I have not fixed mine yet but I think i'm close.

Holler if i got it wrong.

mike


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

vesposit said:


> I have a similar problem w/ 94 Sentra.
> I connected a Vmeter inside and can see it charge than all of sudden drop to 12.5v.
> It will start charging again.
> I too can tell by the load on the engine when the Alt is charging and when it is not. Sound is similar to AC kicking in and out.mike





> I think the problem is with the Trigger wire... this goes from L terminal on Alt to Batt but thru the Bat light dash and 10a fuse. This wire is how the Alt knows when to charge the battery.


That's not quite correct.

The " L " terminal is usually for the charge lamp circuit it doesn't tell the alternator to charge the battery.

This has voltage from the alternator and goes to one side of the charge lamp relay , the other side of this relay has power from the ignition ( battery ). This is compared so if the voltage from the alternator side is missing that's when the lamp is supposed to turn on. 

The regulator is what determines the alternator to turn on and charge depending on the voltage drop of the battery.




> If the wire is broken or intermittent or fuse gone, or even if Batt light is out the circuit is NOT complete. The Alt will NOT charge and you will NOT get a Batt light.


You won't get a light because the wire is broken , intermittent or fuse is for light is gone.

This should not affect the alternator to charge.

The only other thing would be the excitation line which goes to the brushes to magnetize the rotor spinning inside the stator , that is controlled by the regulator.


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## vesposit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Thanks... but a bit more ?*

Ty Golfer...

But I think that the bulb actually draws a small amount of current that has to do with the alt excitaion.

If you REMOVE the bulb the Alt will not charge... I think...

So if the wire from L to Bulb is broken the ALT will not charge...

I've been reading a bunch... and I still don't understand all i know... thanks for your help.


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## vesposit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Ty Golfer*

Thanks...
here is what I see... sometimes when starting the BATT light is NOT on.. car starts, runs fine, but it is not charging... I see 12.5v

Installed new Alt and new Battery today.

Drive the car a bit... all sudden it starts charging 14v

It might drop off to 12.5v again... might not.

Sometimes when start car... the BATT light is ON... bulb chk.. after starting it is charging fine.

If after starting it is NOT charging... remove the A4 connector from ALT and re-insert with engine running... it will start charging...

Yesterday it ran the old Battery dead driving... and the BATT light did not come on... so I am suspecting that it has to do with the L terminal and the Y/R wire...

Maybe it is the other wire going to the ALT ?

Problem seems intermittent... so I suspect a wire problem... but only a few to worrry about.

Maybe it is just a new BAD Alternator ?

Because of how the light acts... I suspect wiring to the light... or would a bad ALT prevent the Light from coming on during the Bulb chk... ignition on but not yet started ?


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

vesposit said:


> Ty Golfer...
> 
> But I think that the bulb actually draws a small amount of current that has to do with the alt excitaion.
> 
> ...


I doubt the electrical engineer would design the system to have a complete system failure if simply a bulb burnt out .

The excitation voltage ( for the brushes ) actually would come from the battery and the " Regulator " turns this on and off.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

vesposit said:


> Thanks...
> here is what I see... sometimes when starting the BATT light is NOT on.. car starts, runs fine, but it is not charging... I see 12.5v
> 
> Installed new Alt and new Battery today.
> ...


If you have a relay in the circuit for the lamp it may be faulty.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

Just did a google and ran across this , it's prety good in explaining things.

check it out: Automotive Charging Systems -  A Short Course on How They Work


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## vesposit (Sep 5, 2006)

*Thanks... all fixed*

Hey golfer...

It is true that if the bulb burns out it will not charge. The bulb is in the trigger circuit and normally draws a small amount of current... but not enough to light up... if a problem occurs it should draw more current and light up.

Of if the Alt fails the bulb may not light at all, even with bulb chk relay on. This was my case.

My problem was that the NEW Alt was also bad... but only sometimes. I took it to NAPA had them test it... he said it was fine... i told him it would fail... give it time... just than the tester stopped and said it was bad.

Got ANOTHER new alt and all is fine.

The site you found was very cool... thanks for your digging and help.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

vesposit said:


> Hey golfer...The site you found was very cool... thanks for your digging and help.





> It is true that if the bulb burns out it will not charge. The bulb is in the trigger circuit and normally draws a small amount of current... but not enough to light up... if a problem occurs it should draw more current and light up.
> 
> Of if the Alt fails the bulb may not light at all, even with bulb chk relay on. This was my case.


Not sure if I follow you.




> My problem was that the NEW Alt was also bad... but only sometimes. I took it to NAPA had them test it... he said it was fine... i told him it would fail... give it time... just than the tester stopped and said it was bad.
> 
> Got ANOTHER new alt and all is fine.


So your problem *was the alternator* , glad you got it resolved.
It also goes to show you can't trust the parts and the people at the part stores using the bench testers.


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

The bulb has nothing to do with the alternator's charging properties. It's simply a warning light.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

88pathoffroad said:


> The bulb has nothing to do with the alternator's charging properties. It's simply a warning light.


Thanks for the backup.


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## jeanvill1 (Nov 26, 2005)

I also have a 95 Pathy. About a month ago I was making a stop at a local city event with like 40 pizzas for our Christmas event, and all of a sudden my pathy stuttered and sputtered to a stop. I got out and pulled up 10 ft with the help of other city event members, called a tow truck and saw it hauled to my mechanic. I ordered a factory rebuilt nissan alternator and battery and replaced both, I also checked the battery pos and neg. connections. It has come down to this. My mechanic did a rundown of all the electrical and found a wire that goes from the alternator to the battery that has resistance. Its in the black plastic covered main harness that goes from the drivers side where the alternator sits in the engine runs near the alternator and the hood latch and to the pos on the battery. He found resistance in this wire and has sent it to a electrical specialist to fab. one. Good luck to you, I should have my pathy back on Jan 16 from the Electrical specialist. Short of replacing the whole harness, fabrication or replacement is the best way. Long run you may think about changing the harness especially if you off-road a lot. Wouldnt want you to be stuck out in the boonies.
This has happened before a couple months ago. So if it happens again even with the new alt. check this wire. This is the first time we are replacing the wire.

Thanks for reading. Good luck knock on wood.


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

It doesn't take an "electrical specialist" to "create" a new "specialty" charging wire. I used a piece of 4-gauge battery cable with the ends crimped on and it works just fine. Wierdness...


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

jeanvill1 said:


> I also have a 95 Pathy. About a month ago I was making a stop at a local city event with like 40 pizzas for our Christmas event, and all of a sudden my pathy stuttered and sputtered to a stop. I got out and pulled up 10 ft with the help of other city event members, called a tow truck and saw it hauled to my mechanic. I ordered a factory rebuilt nissan alternator and battery and replaced both, I also checked the battery pos and neg. connections. It has come down to this. My mechanic did a rundown of all the electrical and found a wire that goes from the alternator to the battery that has resistance. Its in the black plastic covered main harness that goes from the drivers side where the alternator sits in the engine runs near the alternator and the hood latch and to the pos on the battery. He found resistance in this wire and has sent it to a electrical specialist to fab. one. Good luck to you, I should have my pathy back on Jan 16 from the Electrical specialist. Short of replacing the whole harness, fabrication or replacement is the best way. Long run you may think about changing the harness especially if you off-road a lot. Wouldnt want you to be stuck out in the boonies.
> This has happened before a couple months ago. So if it happens again even with the new alt. check this wire. This is the first time we are replacing the wire.
> 
> Thanks for reading. Good luck knock on wood.


If it has resistance = bad ... no resistance = good.


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## tcrote5516 (Sep 30, 2006)

Oh for christ sake!!! I am about ready to buy this guy a new friggin alt. I'm no "electrical specialist" but I think its about time to bite the bullet. I had a similar problem when I yanked my pathy out of the junkyard lol Surging, sometimes charging, most of the time not... Guess what i did, started with the cheap s*it and replaced stuff until it worked.

1: Replaced Alt, and Batt cables (with out the aid of aformentioned "electrical specialist") $15
2: Replaced Battery $50.00
3 Replaced Alt $110.00

It cost me $175.00 and I dont have to worrie about it anymore and thats priceless. 

GO BUY A NEW ALT FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!! LETS NOT MAKE THIS MORE COMPLICATED THEN IT NEEDS TO BE


there I feel better.


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## Xeno (Oct 5, 2005)

Thrasher1995 said:


> Battery light has never come on during the noise problem or light flicker...
> When the alternator is in the vehicle and it's ON, it outputs 13.7 Volts. When the alternator is OFF, I get battery voltage of 12.1 to 12.6 volts depending on charge state.



That battery light is actually a alternator light. It comes on under few conditions.
1. A relay bypassed it, to test it (during car start).
2. The diodes failed(in alt) and now supply ground to it.
3. Alt not producing correct current.

A fully charged battery is 12.8V+

If yours reads 12.1V it is in a state of "dead/discharged". Even 12.6V is something like 30% discharged.

Rebuilt alternators from your local Autohutt are usually crap, do to the way they "rebuild" them.

---

Ok, so charge your battery on a charger. After removing the charger and it sits for a while(couple hours), a good battery will show 12.8v+. If not get a new battery. 

Now if it it does not stay charged in the vehicle, replace your alt.


X


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## jeanvill1 (Nov 26, 2005)

*I GOT HER BACK*

I GOT MY PATHY BACK YESTERDAY EVERYTHING TURNED OUT GREAT. $69.99 FOR THE HEAVY GUAGE WIRE FROM THE ALT. TO THE BATTERY. AND 39.99 FOR A WIRE IN THE DASH, WHICH IM THINKING WAS THE BATTERY / ALT. WARNING LIGHT. THE "ELECTRICAL SPECIALIST" WAS VERY NICE AND EXPLANED IT TO ME IN BROKEN SPANISH WELL WORTH IT AND VERY PROFESSIONAL. HE REPLACED SOME PLASTIC WIRE COVERS AND TAPED EVERYTHING UP SO THE ELEMENTS WOULD STAY OUTSIDE HE MADE GREAT CONNECTIONS. 
NOW EVERYTHING IS CHARGING IN SPECS AND ALL IS SWEET. 

$214.00 FOR A NEW REBUILD FACTORY NISSAN ALT. 
$100.00 MECHANIC LABOR CHARGED
$69.99 FOR HEAVY GUAGE WIRE
$39.99 FOR DASH WIRE...INCLUDING ONE "ELECTRICAL SPECIALIST" LABOR

ONE PATHY BACK AT HOME- PRICELESS

KINDA ALOT TO SPEND BUT ITS BACK AND MY HANDS ARE CLEAN FOR SCHOOL TOMARROW. A BIG FACTOR OF ME SENDING IT OUT. NOW I GOTTA GET MY REPLICA PORSCHE 550 RUNNNG, THE 911 FAN NEEDS A BOLT THATS HELLA WEIRD. NO PUN INTENDED @HELLA. SO NEXT TIME I CAN WORK ON THE PATHY MYSELF, KNOCK ON WOOD. TIME TO GO TO THE VW FORUM.

LOL HEY A WEIRD THING I NOTICED. HAVE ANY OF YOU LOOKED AT A NISSAN 240Z LIKE 60'S 70'S ONES, THERE TRANSMISSIONS REALLY RESEMBLE A VW TRANSAXLE HUH...


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## jeanvill1 (Nov 26, 2005)

I GOT MY PATHY BACK YESTERDAY EVERYTHING TURNED OUT OKAY. 69.99 FOR THE HEAVY GUAGE WIRE FROM THE ALT TO THE BATTERY. AND 39.99 FOR A WIRE IN THE DASH, WHICH IM THINKING WAS THE BATTERY / ALT. WARING LIGHT. SO NOW EVERYTHING IS CHARGING AND ALL IS SWEET. 214.00 FOR A NEW REBUILD NISSAN ALT. AND MY MECANIC CHARGED 100.00 EVEN FOR LABOR OUT THE DOOR WAS LIKE 490.00. KINDA ALOT TO SPEND BUT ITS BACK AND MY HANDS ARE CLEAN FOR SCHOOL TOMARROW. A BIG FACTOR OF ME SENDING IT OUT WAS CAUSE I NEED TO GO BACK TO SCHOOL. NOW I GOTTA GET MY REPLICA PORSCHE 550 RUNNNGTHE 911 FAN NEES A BOLT THAT HELLA WEIRD. NO PUN INTENDED @HELLA. SO NEXT TIME I CAN WORK ON IT. TIME TO GO TO THE VW FOURM, LOL HEY A WEIRD FACT HAVE ANY OF YOU LOOKED AT A NISSAN 240 LIKE 60'S 70'S ONES, THEY REALLY RESEMBLE A VW TRANSAXLE HUH...


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

You've got to be SHITTING me. You paid $69 for ONE cable, less than 4 feet long? You got ripped off. Bottom line, no doubt about it. Copper wire does NOT cost that much, even if you have it custom-made. I don't care who says otherwise.

Turn off your goddamn caps lock. Jeez.


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

$490 for installing a rebuilt alt. and replacing two cables ... ouch !!


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## jeanvill1 (Nov 26, 2005)

I WOULD THINK THAT IF SOMEONE WANTED TO WRITE IN GREEN THAT THEY COULD, OR IS THIS FORUM NOT A FREE SITE? DO WE LIVE IN A POLICE STATE ALREADY? I DONT BELIEVE IN GOD. BUT PLEASE DONT USE IT IN THAT MANNER WHEN TALKING WITH ME.

WHEN YOU HAVE SOME MONEY AND IT COSTS YOU MORE TO USE YOUR TIME DURNING THE WEEK TO BE UNDER YOUR CAR VS. HAVE SOMEONE ELSE DO THE WORK WHO HAS BEEN DOING THIS FOR AWHILE. I WOULD RATHER LET THEM DO IT. I COULD DO IT. I HAVE BUILT WIRING LOOMS FROM SCRATCH. I KNOW THE PRICES OF WIRE. 

WHAT I HOPE TO GET ACROSS IS THAT THERES A POINT THAT WE AS PATHY ENTHUSIST HAVE TO CONTRACT OUR WORK OUT IN ORDER TO ENJOY OUR TRUCKS. 
I DO FIND PLEASURE IN WORKING ON MY CARS, GETTING GREASE STAINED INTO MY HANDS AND HAVING THE SATISFACTION THAT I FIXED SOMETHING. BUT, WHEN ITS YOUR DAILY DRIVER, YOU WANT IT TO BE IN TOP CONDITION AND DONE NOW, THEN YOU PAY TO GET IT DONE. ACCESSORIES ARE FUN TO MESS AROUND ON, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PRIMARY SYSTEMS WHICH COULD LEAVE YOU STRANDED IN THE DESERT, I WOULD PREFER NOT TO DO MY OWN DENTAL WORK. IMAGINE BREAKING DOWN BEFORE AND IMPORTANT MEETING. OR MISSING A GREAT ONCE IN A LIFETIME EVENT CAUSE YOU WANTED TO SAVE 69.99.
MY MECHANIC ALSO PAYED FOR TOWING AND HE GUARENTEES HIS WORK. SO IF I WAS STRANDED IN WHO KNOWS WHERE HE WOULD COME OUT AND GET ME OR REFUND ME MONEY FOR TOWING IF HE CAUSED THE PROBLEM. 

SO I RESPECT THAT YOU SAID I PAID TOO MUCH, BUT HOW MUCH WOULD YOU PAY TO HAVE THINGS DONE RIGHT AND GUARENTEED?


69.00 FOR LABOR
.99 CENTS FOR WIRE
A GUARENTEE THAT, THAT WIRE WONT LEAVE YOU STRANDED IN THE DESERT AND IF IT DOES THEY WILL COME GET YOU.

PRICELESS....

I ALSO WANTED TO SINCERLY THANK YOU AS A MODERATOR FOR THE WORK THAT YOU DO TO HELP KEEP THIS SITE RUNNING. BUT REMEMBER WITHOUT YOUR LOYAL FORUM MEMBERS WHO WOULD YOU MODERATE. SO JUST BE NICE TO US LITTLE PEOPLE. THANK YOU AGAIN, ITS PEOPLE LIKE YOU WHO MAKE THESE SITES POSSIBLE AND I SINCERLY THANK YOU. 
SO BE NICE TO US NEWBIES, YOU MIGHT BE ASKING US TO BE IN CHARGE SOMEDAY WHEN YOU NO LONGER HAVE TIME TO MODERATE. 

SOMEDAY WHEN OUR NISSANS ARE OLD AND GREY, BEING RESTORED SO WE COULD PUT NEW ELECTRIC ENGINES IN THEM, OR HOW ABOUT FUTURE SUPER DIESEL TERRANO ENGINES. THAT WOULD BE SWEET, YOU MIGHT ASK ONE OF US TO COME OVER AND HAVE A FEW BEERS, TRADE SOME VINTAGE NISSAN PARTS.

WITH RESPECT


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## golfer (Aug 21, 2006)

jeanvill1... typing in caps makes it harder to read also etiquette ... caps means you're yelling or shouting.

If you have the money to have someone do the work for you ... go for it.

For myself i don't have the money to always have the work done for me and besides something as simple as changing out an alternator with a couple of cables and saving about half the cost is also rewarding.

To each their own.


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## jmanng (Dec 21, 2010)

I've got this same issue going on with my 2001 pathfinder. this is an old thread but definitely a goody. can't believe how big of a challenge this has been.

I've run through all the diagnostics and everything checks out (so points back to alternator). wires have no resistance, grounds are all good, no voltage drops (which would mean wire resistance). verified all fuses and fuseable link. I've had the altenator out a half-dozen times now (getting pretty good at it unfortunately). Had it checked at two different parts stores and then took it to a good rebuilder and he also verified it was good. I had explained all the testing I had done prior to bringing it in to the rebuilder and he was willing to talk and suggested a few tests while it was still on the car - he was advising to check the running voltages on the 'S' and 'L' circuits in which I measured 12.05 (battery voltage) and 11.06 (or something around there) and he had told me that the second voltage (or one of them) should be around 9 volts. He was telling me to try and manually excite the fields circuit while it was in car but to be careful because the voltage should be around 9volts. a little unsure at this point because a few weeks have gone by whether it was the 'S' or 'L' terminal pin he was applying voltage to (thinking it should be the 'S' but if I look at the alternator with pulley on left as I look at it, it was the closest pin to me). I was going to use a 2-3 diodes to drop the 11.06 v down to around 9v for the test. I know its been said that the 'L' circuit is simply a warning light circuit and is not active in whether alternator charges or not (and I certainly would agree that it would make no sense to engineer it that way) but I do see a couple of paths and whether the gauge failure isn't complete - anyhow will need to crawl back under there and run another test (just gotten tired of all the time I've spent on it and it's gotten cold outside).

A couple of tips for anyone going through this the first time (wish I had known or maybe some that I missed reading through):
1. the bottom of the fan shroud pops off - just push the clips in pull, gives you much needed clearance
2. also remove the two rad support brackets on top and then you can also push the entire rad up in-tact
3. you may wish to remove the transmission hose on that side (you might be ok with just the above).I can attest even slightly pushing on the hose might cause the transmission nipple to break trying to get alternator out (yep it broke - didn't take much)
4. for re-installing the top bolt-nut, I made a little tool out of coat-hanger wire to hold the nut and act as an extension (I was going crazy)

if it turns out that dropping the voltage proves the dash gauge is bad, how much work is it to get it out? 

thanks, 
Jaime


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## dadondada (Feb 22, 2016)

describe please, how did you get the stop bolt on the back of the Alt.. I see you made a tool from a coat hanger, what was the presses


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