# 01 Sentra SE Bad ground or bad alternator?



## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Recently I decided to clean the ground that frons from the battery to the body under the tray and to the transmission (I believe). After I out it all back together I ended up with a.battery light and a break light. I've read somewhere that those two lights together mean a bad alternator. So I checked the volts between the alternator and the ground on the front side of the engine as well as at the battery, both show the same. It bounces between 15v and 15.5v. Also every light on and in the car now pulses. I should mention that this car has been through 2 alternators counding the factory, this will be the 3rd. It is a reman from aurozone, not what in would pick but its what my niece could afford at the time for such short notice.

To top things off I've had to replace my VSS due to a P0720 cell. However here recently its came back but worse. If I idle at a light there is a chance that when I take off the car won't shift out of 1st. If I pull over and shut the car off then restart it the car will drive and shift perfectly.

Any ideas? Could this be a falty alternator and/or ground causing all of this? I've been pulling my hair out


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

15v is too high. Gonna boil out the battery sooner or later.
Autozone alternator....Ya....May as well use that one for a doorstop.
Try the voltage test again with no load (eg. no lights, no nothing on or operating). Then try it again with everything you can think of on and operating, headlights, blower motor, step on the brakes, A/C on, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and so on.
If you get 15V both times, the alternator is good...good at putting out too much voltage...in other words, NOT good.
If the voltage drops to less than, say, 13 or so, then, there is a possibility of bad wires somewhere.
But I'd bet you got a crap alternator.

Autozone crap...typical...


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Thanks for the response. From what I've seen it stays at or above 15v with everything on, but I will test further just to make sure.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Shadow_Death said:


> Recently I decided to clean the ground that frons from the battery to the body under the tray and to the transmission (I believe). After I out it all back together I ended up with a.battery light and a break light.


Your posting is a bit confusing. Was everything OK BEFORE you started the ground cleaning? If the problem started AFTER the cleaning, then there is a grounding problem. The negative (-) battery cable normally goes from the battery to the engine block; it's a heavy gauge cable. 

Disconnect both battery cables from the battery and perform a resistance test from the negative battery cable connector to the engine block. There should be a zero (0) resistance reading on your ohm meter.

A CONSTANT charge voltage higher then 15 volts is not good; it will cook your battery.
A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, first thing to do is to turn the key "on" and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is ok but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECU. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECU memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Yeah, sorry about that. I guess that's what I get for posting from my phone.

So basically the history of the car is that we bought it from the original owner with 140K miles on it. The alternator has to be replaced twice since we've had it. The first time was the OEM alternator, the second was the autozone replacement which caught fire. The one that is in there now is the replacement for the replacement. 

So far everything seems to check out fine. The battery sits at a static 12.48v. While the car is running the alternator voltage fluctuates between 15v and 15.39v, sometimes peaking at 15.53v. I've never seen this on other cars which is what lead me to believe that the alternator is bad. Voltage does not seem to dip below 15v though. So far the only codes that seem to keep popping up are P0720 for the VSS which I replaced not too long ago.

Edit: tomorrow I will take the alternator off and have it bench tested.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

I wouldn't even bother with the bench test, but that's probably what Autozone will require for a return.
I think you're headed for Autozone alternator #3, and I wouldn't even bother with Autozone alternator #3 and spend the few extra $$$ and get a genuine Nissan alternator #3.

Another thought...is your meter good? Or is it one of those cheap $10 jobs from Walmart? I do the electronics thing as a main source of income (rebuild circuit board, custom electrics design, etc.). Not uncommon for those cheap meters to be a good volt or two off, even around the 12v range or so.

You might also want to look around for an electric motor rebuild guy in your area. I let all of the smoke out of my alternator awhile back. Found a local guy that rebuilds things like electric pump motors, starter motors, etc. He hooked me up for something like $110, where a new alternator was going to run me $200. The guy went thru and totally rebuilt it...ordered all new parts that were replaceable, brushes, bearings, regulator, diode pack, whatever was all in there. Still going today after 8 years (give or take) and I'd bet the guy would still warranty his work...well, maybe he'd cut me a break on a 2nd rebuild if I needed it. I doubt a guy would really warranty something that's 8 years old and has well over 50K miles on it.

Might be worth a look-see.

A far as the P0720 on the VSS. That's a hall-effect sensor. Those things don't like high voltages. Makes them get stupid. The crank and cam sensor are the same type of sensor. I wouldn't be surprise if a code popped up for one of those eventually as well.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Ok, that last bit about the VSS is about what I figured. 

http://i.imgur.com/OR0P3zg.jpg

My Multi-meter. 

As for the alternator, I'm going to replace it via Autozone until I can afford to buy an actual new one. There aren't many shops around here that could rebuild one sadly. :/

Edit: Thanks for the help guys.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Ya, ok, a Fluke. About as much chance of that being wrong as a flat spare tire causing the problem you're having.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

jdg said:


> Ya, ok, a Fluke. About as much chance of that being wrong as a flat spare tire causing the problem you're having.


Yup, I actually upfit police cars for a living so I need a reliable meter. Man, these Nissan can be testy when they want to but even when it doesn't run properly it still runs good. 

I actually bought this car in a pinch as I wrecked my truck a few months ago and ended up needing a vehicle really quick. Just so happens my niece wanted to sell it so I got it for $1000 with 171K miles on it. I've just slowly been fixing the stuff that she neglected on it. Lucky for me most of the problems have been answered here already.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

So, Update. I finally managed to replace the alternator. I couldn't afford to flat out buy a new one so I had to run back to autozone and let them warranty it out. This replacement one doesn't bounce voltage like the last one did but it stays at a constant 15.35v which bugs me. Now all my sensors seem to behave except for this one problem I'm having. The car will randomly bog if I give it more than 1/8 throttle. Sometimes if I give it full throttle it will hesitate then shift gears. Then it will act like I'm letting off and back on really fast. I don't have any cells her but its only been less than a day. Another thing to add is that it seems to stop doing this once the vehicle warms up.


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## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

Shadow_Death said:


> it stays at a constant 15.35v


At a fast idle or above, the regulator decides the alternator voltage and it should be between 13.3v (summer) to 15.5v (winter).

A fully charged 12v battery with no surface charge and at room temperature should read ~12.8v but I use the difference between engine off voltage and fast idle voltage to decide if it's being charged. 
To remove surface charge run the headlights for a minute or so.

If you're handy with hobby kits, you could get a REF05 or some other very accurate integrated circuit to check the calibration of your meter. They're dirt cheap nowadays and you can run it on a 9v battery through a resistor.

9v battery open circuit voltage - Google Search


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

OhmsLaw said:


> At a fast idle or above, the regulator decides the alternator voltage and it should be between 13.3v (summer) to 15.5v (winter).
> 
> A fully charged 12v battery with no surface charge and at room temperature should read ~12.8v but I use the difference between engine off voltage and fast idle voltage to decide if it's being charged.
> To remove surface charge run the headlights for a minute or so.
> ...


https://youtube.com/watch?v=oKiweEH0Nxs

I noticed on this 94 Sentra has a ground wire screwed to the body of the alternator I didn't see one of those on my 01. I'm wondering if they did away with that or if its legit missing on mine.

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## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

Shadow_Death said:


> https://youtube.com/watch?v=oKiweEH0Nxs
> 
> I noticed on this 94 Sentra has a ground wire screwed to the body of the alternator I didn't see one of those on my 01. I'm wondering if they did away with that or if its legit missing on mine.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk


They may depend on metal to metal contact to supply the ground (like a starter motor) but I can't see harm in running your own additional stranded, strapped-down ground wire to the vehicle body.

I did this with a washing machine even though it had its own grounded plug. In a wet laundry room environment you can't be too careful.

The one example of a bad regulator that I saw had the battery voltage at 17 and the electrolyte was boiling vigorously.

BTW, the regulator decides the battery voltage unless the current draw of the system is more than the alt can handle.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

OhmsLaw said:


> They may depend on metal to metal contact to supply the ground (like a starter motor) but I can't see harm in running your own additional stranded, strapped-down ground wire to the vehicle body.
> 
> I did this with a washing machine even though it had its own grounded plug. In a wet laundry room environment you can't be too careful.


Alright, I'll see about doing that Monday. We have wire like that at work that would allow me to do that.

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Ya, I was really going for the bad Autozone alternator route too...because it happens so damn much...

If you're battery is in good shape, cranks well, holds a charge, all that good stuff, then I'm leaning towards a bad ground as well. If the regulator for the alternator/system doesn't have a good reference to regulate off of, it's not going to do any good.
I'm thinking add a wire from the battery negative to the body...see what happens. Add one from the alternator ground to the body...see what happens. And a 3rd one going from an ECM mount bolt (or wire, which ever you feel comfortable with) straight to the body...and see what happens. Or run the last 2 all the way back to the battery negative itself.


Incidentally...I've got an old '74 Malibu. Many, many moons ago, messing around with it one day, changed out the dist. cap, rotor, points, etc. Got done with it no problems. Took it for a drive into town later that night. Headlights, stereo, everything, kept going in and out. WTF? Jam on the brakes, everything would come back up.
Got back to it the next day and I had forgot to put the ground strap that goes from the firewall to the top of the air cleaner back on. It was laying across the back of the engine making intermittent sloppy contact with the back of the block/bell-housing. Not to mention the wingnut that holds the air cleaner on was gone.
It's always the little stuff.....or so it seems.....


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

The pulsing issue with the lights is gone now and so is the voltage fluctuations. It stays at 15.3v with a .01v variance. The main thing I'm facing now is the weird bogging issue that when it does happen only seems to do it when the motor is cold.

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

...which may also be connected to the high system voltage. Sounds stupid, but if you've got a bad ground, you've got a bad ground. That's all there is to it. Who knows what else that one bad ground is also grounding out. Could be a sensor, could be the ground for the ignition coils. Then again, could be the ground for the under-hood light. Who knows...


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Oh, don't worry I plan on doing more ground probing Monday after work. Especially after reading your last post.

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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

I think I finally fixed it. So the other day when I replaced the alternator I noticed that the bracket holding it is black, I'm jot sure if it is supposed to be. What I did notice is that it was covered in oil. My valve cover gasket leaks, this is next on the list. So I started to think, as far as I am aware oil acts as an insulator especially when its mixed with dirt and road grime. So today I ran a ground wire 10g from a bolt on the alternator casing to the ground stud above the alternator on the engine. So far she seems to be running great. I haven't had any bogging issues other than the typical automatic not wanting to downshift.

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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Sorry for the triple post here. For some reason Tapatalk isn't letting me edit some of my old posts. 

Update: That ground didn't fix the issue. At this point I'm starting to think that maybe I got a bad replacement VSS. Strange thing is my speedo, odometer, and cruise control all work.

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Thinking you still need a good ground from the engine to the body itself, and maybe add another one from the body to the battery negative...while you're in that mode anyways. Couldn't hurt.

Did it flag another VSS code? Possible that the higher than normal voltage damaged it...I don't see it happening but stranger crap has happened. Might be the case that the speedo needle itself can't respond fast enough to catch any missing pulses coming from the VSS but the ECM can.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

It actually flagged one on my way to work Monday after I replaced the alternator Sunday. I don't know if it flagged another one since but I am getting weird issues when I accelerate from a dead stop like before. Most times, at least while the engine is still cold, it will bog down on take off. I've determined that it may not be the TPS as it doesn't seem to do it after the engine warms up or while I'm moving. It just seems to be that initial take off. I'm starting to winder if this is an entirely different issue now.

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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

So I have a new question and I decided rather than starting a new thread and cluttering up this forum with multiple threads asking different questions I could tack it on to the end of this one.

Last night it was aprox 73°F it had occurred to me that I have NEVER seen my Radiator fans come on. So I fired the car up after I got home, it was still warm, and let it idle for about 30min and the fans still never came on. The temp gauge on the dash was just below the middle. I suspect that even at idle at 73f the fans should have still kicked on. Am I right or wrong? I read somewhere that if the temp gauge is messed up that it could flood the engine which would give the weird bogging issue that I'm seeing. This is part of what lead me to where I am now.

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Shadow_Death said:


> Last night it was aprox 73°F it had occurred to me that I have NEVER seen my Radiator fans come on. So I fired the car up after I got home, it was still warm, and let it idle for about 30min and the fans still never came on. The temp gauge on the dash was just below the middle. I suspect that even at idle at 73f the fans should have still kicked on. Am I right or wrong? I read somewhere that if the temp gauge is messed up that it could flood the engine which would give the weird bogging issue that I'm seeing. This is part of what lead me to where I am now.


I'd doubt it. No load on the engine. If you turn on the A/C, all the fans should come on...at least I would think so.
Yes, if the temp sensor for the ECU is messed, it could cause some issues, but the ECU should flag it after awhile. eg...if the ECU knows the engine has been running for a long time and the temp never comes up, flag a code.
But, sometimes there's a couple different sensors, one for the ECU, one for the temp gauge.
Get the engine bone cold, get an OBD scanner, fire up the motor and watch the coolant temp reading.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

jdg said:


> I'd doubt it. No load on the engine. If you turn on the A/C, all the fans should come on...at least I would think so.
> Yes, if the temp sensor for the ECU is messed, it could cause some issues, but the ECU should flag it after awhile. eg...if the ECU knows the engine has been running for a long time and the temp never comes up, flag a code.
> But, sometimes there's a couple different sensors, one for the ECU, one for the temp gauge.
> Get the engine bone cold, get an OBD scanner, fire up the motor and watch the coolant temp reading.


I tried turning the A/C on to see if that would cause both fans to kick on. They didn't but that could also be from another issue. Somewhere in the system there is a pretty bad leak. You could recharge the system but by the end of the day it would be empty. Because of that my compressor won't kick on since the pressure switch is reading such a low value. I figure since the compressor won't kick on it would probably prevent the fans from coming on as well. I think tomorrow after I get to work I'll leave the car idling and I'll check with a test light for signal to the fans and see if they're even getting signal. I've got 3 fan relays that it could also be as well.

Also so far the only SES codes that I've gotten are for P0720 - Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I think I'm going to just order one from Nissan to eliminate the possibility of Autozone's crap parts.

I had a 99 Ranger that had a ABS sensor go bad. On that vehicle it was in the rear diff and it also detected vehicle speed so when I bought one from autozone it worked great until I got on the highway. Anything above 69MPH the thing would stop detecting properly and the vehicle would stop reading speed, milage, etc.

Edit: As far as I understand these 01 Sentras only have 1 VSS correct? On the transmission right underneath the Throttle body on the driver's side of the starter right? I haven't seen anything about any other sensors that could also cause the P0720 code. I'm really hoping it's not a short in wires though. -_-


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## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

One rule of troubleshooting is divide & conquer, separate parts of the system and test them independently.
With the many feedback loops and interactions in auto systems, it's difficult.

For $40 + the cost of a thermocouple, you can get a second, independent opinion of coolant temp, the one given by

General Tools
Model # DT61
Internet # 205663760
Heavy-Duty Single Thermocouple Thermometer

The trick is to clamp the sensor into the hottest part of the radiator. 
Measuring the delta T, top and bottom of the radiator, gives you some measure of radiator efficiency (for diagnosing overheating problems).


Or you could get an infrared type meter with emissivity correction, useful for more than cars.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

Well I just had a bunch of crazy stuff happen back to back and I suspect that there is more wrong here.

On my way out for lunch my car began its usual bog from 0-2k RPMs then it would come to life at 2k RPMs. So on a back road I decided to shut off my car and restart it while at a stop sign which sometimes works. This time it didn't so I tried it again and got prompted by a "Set" light flashing really fast. After restarting Tue car yet again I got an O/D light flashing and the car wouldn't go above 2K RPMs then suddenly the flashing stopped and the car began driving again. On my way back from the drive through it ran great like nothing was wrong. I'm absolutely stumped but on my way home I'll have codes pulled again and see what comes up this time.


Edit: Considering that I've got a P0720 code that I know about I really wonder if I got a defective replacement VSS but I thought that there was another trouble code specifically for the VSS. Oh I'd also like to mention that it has been raining all day today.



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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

maf...
mmmmmmmMMMMMMMMaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAFFFFFFFFFF.......

mmmmmmmMMMMMMMMaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAFFFFFFFFFF.......


:crying:
Not gonna be cheap. Don't go the junkyard route.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

jdg said:


> maf...
> mmmmmmmMMMMMMMMaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAFFFFFFFFFF.......
> 
> mmmmmmmMMMMMMMMaaaaaaaaaAAAAAAAFFFFFFFFFF.......
> ...


Well crap.... I've heard that these cars will go through MAFs. I don't plan on getting one off a junk yard either. Rockauto.


So I take it that it is posable for the MAF to still half work? If I unplug it then the car flat out dies so I'm assuming that it partially works. I suppose it wouldn't hurt for me to clean it with some MAF cleaner.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

That was supposed to be some sort of weak frankenstein type grunt up there by the way 

Ya, sucks, but that's the Nissan symptom of a bad MAF, things changing at 2K RPM's. Sort of a failsafe as the MAF is a key sensor like the crank sensor. Almost every other sensor is there to tweak the mix to make it perfect.

Weird thing is, you can discount a bad MAF and easily calculate reasonably accurate airflow using MAP/IAT/RPM (see MP3 PLAYER V). It's referred to as speed-density. Why Nissan doesn't do it that way is beyond me. Would've been a heckuva lot better than an engine that just doesn't want to run at all...


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

I saw "mmmmmmmmaaaaaaaaaaafffffffff" and lost it laughing. I've never had to worry about those on any other vehicle I've driven so I didn't even think about this one.



So I may not be out of that much money. Seems my year make allows me to replace just the sensor. That drops about 100$ off the bill right there.



Look at what I saw when I took the upper air filter housing off.

https://imgur.com/BC0x0SL

https://imgur.com/8Z4ZLI8

It rubbed off on my hand. Last time I saw anything like this was when I ran a K&N air filter on my ranger. It clogged my MAF up. Maybe I'll get lucky but I'm not holding my breath. 
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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Ya, that amount of grime is about normal...at least in my experience it is. Now, when you've got grasshoppers and fingers and stuff burnt onto the screen, well, you might have a problem.

If you haven't already, you might want to try a few shots of MAF cleaner (CRC Industries 5110 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner | O'Reilly Auto Parts). ~$10/can. Might do the trick, might not. It really is a crap-shoot at best.
That screen on the outside isn't what you have to worry about. That's there as a last resort to keep the big crapola outta there. It's the little tiny thin wire on the inside that does all the work...and the one you shouldn't mess with...and the one that gets all mucked up with crud and fouls up the works.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

jdg said:


> Ya, that amount of grime is about normal...at least in my experience it is. Now, when you've got grasshoppers and fingers and stuff burnt onto the screen, well, you might have a problem.
> 
> If you haven't already, you might want to try a few shots of MAF cleaner (CRC Industries 5110 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner | O'Reilly Auto Parts). ~$10/can. Might do the trick, might not. It really is a crap-shoot at best.
> That screen on the outside isn't what you have to worry about. That's there as a last resort to keep the big crapola outta there. It's the little tiny thin wire on the inside that does all the work...and the one you shouldn't mess with...and the one that gets all mucked up with crud and fouls up the works.


Yup, I hit it with some MAF cleaner. I will see tomorrow how it does. If it keeps up then I'll just order a new one. I just need this baby to last me until the end of the year.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Shadow_Death said:


> Yup, I hit it with some MAF cleaner. I will see tomorrow how it does. If it keeps up then I'll just order a new one. I just need this baby to last me until the end of the year.


I helped another guy (ok, didn't help, but offered advice in the form of comments in a thread) a couple months ago with a Frontier (?) that was messing up. Thought it might've been a MAF but it wasn't adding up to a MAF. I kept saying it was a bad junkyard MAF.
Turned out he ended up getting 3 MAFs from the junkyard, 2 that had failed in exactly the same oddball way where they'd run just fine for awhile until they got 'hot', then would fail in some ridiculous failure mode where the output would go nuts. The 3rd one was just broke.
End result...got a real honest Nissan MAF direct from the dealer. Good to go.
The guy even went so far as to break out the o'scope, a fast OBD scanner/logger, etc.etc.etc. Lots of good data to work with...and it all pointed to rotten junkyard MAFs.

Good luck tomorrow. Nothing like spending $10 to save $200 or whatever a new genuine MAF costs these days. I've got 2 known good working spares for my remaining B14 sitting in the garage. I'll play the switch-a-roo game if/when I ever think I've got a MAF fault.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

So it looks like I may have gotten lucky. After cleaning the MAF it ran perfect today. I didn't even know these cars were that quick. No top end bogging and no fighting on take off. Ill know more as time goes on though. 

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Lucky...no.
That was skillful, methodical, inspired troubleshooting, preceded by observation, followed by....awwww screw it.

Luck it is 

I'll take a tad of luck any day. The wife came running in the door this morning after starting up our Vibe and said the engine was knocking, like a rod knock, because she's heard that before when I smoked another engine years ago. Turned out to be the motor for the recirculating air door had slipped off it's gear train. Rod knock vs. air door motor? A wee bit o' luck here as well.


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## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

Shadow_Death said:


> After cleaning the MAF it ran perfect today.
> 
> Ill know more as time goes on though.


So. . . coincidence?

If you had a problem every X days, you've got a 95% chance it's solved if it stays away 3X days. 4X days = 98%, at least on paper.


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

OhmsLaw said:


> So. . . coincidence?
> 
> If you had a problem every X days, you've got a 95% chance it's solved if it stays away 3X days. 4X days = 98%, at least on paper.


I'm pretty sure it's fixed. The issue wasn't consistent.. I could start the car and have the problem.. then pull over and restart the car and not have the problem. There was always some bogging at full throttle though. That is completely gone now.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Shadow_Death said:


> There was always some bogging at full throttle though. That is completely gone now.


Nah, it's still there.
You're just not pushing the pedal down far enough >

But seriously, the whole restart thing almost makes sense with a clogged up MAF.
It's a hot wire MAF system which means it send X amount of juice thru a thin wire to keep it at a constant temperature, eg. a hot temperature.
The more the airflow, the more juice needed to keep the wire hot.
When the engine/MAF is cold, not a lot of airflow, not a lot of power needed to keep the wire hot. You start getting on it or the engine warms up, and the MAF is all gunked up, the airflow signal isn't nearly as large as it needs to be, engine stumbles 'cause the ECU thinks the airflow is low, blah blah, eventually the ECU says "screw the MAF, it's hosed" and goes into a fail-safe mode.
Shut off the engine, ECU forgets where it was, what it was doing, and the whole process starts over again.

But that's just me thinking again.
Who cares if it's fixed right?


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## Shadow_Death (Feb 21, 2016)

jdg said:


> Nah, it's still there.
> You're just not pushing the pedal down far enough >
> 
> But seriously, the whole restart thing almost makes sense with a clogged up MAF.
> ...


Hey, you guys did more than you had to for me and I appreciate it. It rained on the way to work again today and it still ran great so I'm assuming that it is fixed. 

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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

hamish05064 said:


> The response is awesome thanks for the share here


More SPAM...


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