# Timing chain slap at alomost every startup



## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

Hey guys,

I have a 1996, 4cyl with 187 miles on the ticker. It used to be that I would get some chain noise at startup whenever I parked the truck for a few days. Within the last 8000 miles or so, I started getting chain noise at every startup if the truck was shut off for a few hours.

I switched back to a factory oil filter (assuming it was the check valve) and 10w40 oil. And it's still making the noise. Any suggestions and where to start looking?


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

FWIW: I did a full timing chain and water pump service (factory parts) 3 years and 23k miles ago. There are no leaks, and this truck still gets about 26-27 mpg on the highway.

Per normal use, the chain noise goes away after about 1-mississippi after startup. How can I keep him from losing pressure when he's not running (my truck is a boy, BTW).


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

A lot of the timing chain issues are due to sludge and debris building up in the oil channel to the chain tensioner. This will restrict the flow of oil pressure to the tensioner, especially on start-up, causing the chain to slack and beat against the fixed guide. On the older KA24E's, it would break the plastic guide. In 95, Nissan started using a metal backed, fixed guide, which helps keep it from breaking and jumping time. What I recommend is that when the timing chain or guides are replace, the oil port should be cleaned. This can be done by removing the tensioner and oil filter. Brake cleaner can be sprayed into the oil channel, followed by compressed air, if available, to blow clear the port. It will spray out of the oil filter adapter. Without taking the front of the engine apart, this is hard to do. The only thing I could suggest that might work is an oil flush machine; normally, I don't recommend them, but for something like this, it may be helpful. Also, using the Nissan spec., 5W30, may help a little. You also want to make sure the oil pressure is within spec.


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

smj999smj said:


> What I recommend is that when the timing chain or guides are replace, the oil port should be cleaned. This can be done by removing the tensioner and oil filter. Brake cleaner can be sprayed into the oil channel, followed by compressed air, if available, to blow clear the port. It will spray out of the oil filter adapter. Without taking the front of the engine apart, this is hard to do. The only thing I could suggest that might work is an oil flush machine; normally, I don't recommend them, but for something like this, it may be helpful. Also, using the Nissan spec., 5W30, may help a little. You also want to make sure the oil pressure is within spec.


Thanks for advice! I actually did that brake cleaner/compressed air trick when i replaced the chain/guides/tensioner about 20k miles ago. Also was using the 5w30 when this started.

I think I'm going to take you up on the oil pressure check advice, though! Maybe some Lucas oil treatment, too.


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## SciFiGuy (Oct 30, 2012)

Might sound dumb, but do you have lock-washers installed on the hold-down bolts for the chain guide? I *think* they are supposed to have them.

Lucas is always good. I ran a Subaru up to 260,000 miles using that stuff. The only reason I finally sent it to the wrecking yard was because the timing belt broke, and I didn't think it was worth it to have it replaced.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

THE TIMING CHAIN GUIDES MUST BE PRIED TO THERE INNER MOST POSITION WHEN INSTALLING AND TIGHNTENING..

ALSO U MIGHT TRY RETIMING THE OIL PUMP ..DO NOT FORGET TO PRIME IT AS WELL..


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

Thanks everyone for your help.

Actually I just remembered something... This problem all started after I had a weird problem occur with an oil change. 

1. Back in April, I changed the oil on my truck. I drained out the oil, but I forgot to open the filler cap as the pan was draining out. Didn't think much of it, because I'm pretty sure I've done that before. 

2. When it's done, I put a new (non OEM) filter on and I refilled the oil with the usual 4.5 quarts with that new Valvoline oil in the light-green jug. (I've done all the oil changes on this truck, so I don't even check the dipstick, I just know how much it likes).

3. I emptied the used oil into a jug to take it for recycling, but I noticed that only about 2.5-3 quarts of oil went in (judging by the little sightline on the side of the jug). I freaked out because this was the first time that my truck had ever burned much oil. Then I checked the dipstick, and sure enough it was waaaaay over the full mark, with some oil that looked semi dirty. I figured some oil stayed in the top end because of the filler cap.

4. I didn't have any money to get another jug of oil, so I got underneath, and loosened the drain plug until it started seeping oil. I drained it out until the oil level was near normal, and then sealed it back up.

I thought everything was normal until I started noticing the excess chain slap. At first I chalked it up to the new brand of oil and the cheap filter. So next time I changed the oil (got a full drain that time), I went with a factory filter and the better oil. 

Could something have happened on that bad oil change? It seems like something might be blocked up. Should I try blowing come mildly compressed air back through the oil filter receiver? Or will that hurt something inside the engine (not sure if there are any check valves in the system.


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