# Help! 2010 Rogue Air Bag/impact sensor



## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

Hey!
So a while back I hit a deer with my rogue and it caused some minor damage. The vehicle still runs and drives very well, but my airbag light is always blinking. I tried resetting it with the “three times cycle the key on off for five seconds” trick to no avail. I’m beginning to think that the crash sensor in front of the radiator tripped. If I replaced this sensor, and went through the key cycle again to reset the airbag system, would this solve my problem? I’m not completely familiar with how the entire system works.
thanks in advance!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Nissan ACU's won't clear the lamp until the DTC's that caused the lamp are erased, even if repairs have been made and the code(s) are "past". You'll need to get the codes pulled to see what caused the lamp, then repair any "current" DTC's. Once everything in the system shows "past", then you can erase whatever is in there to turn off the light.


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Nissan ACU's won't clear the lamp until the DTC's that caused the lamp are erased, even if repairs have been made and the code(s) are "past". You'll need to get the codes pulled to see what caused the lamp, then repair any "current" DTC's. Once everything in the system shows "past", then you can erase whatever is in there to turn off the light.


I scanned the codes today and got four different ones
B1180- pretensioner FR RH2 (line short)
B1015- control unit
B1047- control unit
B1015- control unit

I believe I have to replace the tensioner on the front passenger seatbelt, but not entirely sure what to do for the others.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sounds like the ACU may have deployed the pretensioner, but didn't measure enough G-force in the impact to trip a collision code. Deployment often scorches circuits in the ACU, and usually there are accompanying internal failures. Sometimes the wiring is also affected, if you find any melting or scorching in the pretensioner connector then you should check integrity of the wires before replacing the belt. Take the battery loose and pop the connectors at both ends of the pretensioner circuit, then ohm the wires to each other and to ground (both should read infinity) and end-to-end for continuity. If the wires are okay, I'd try replacing the seat belt first and then resetting the box. If the internal codes clear you're home free, if not you'll need to replace the ACU.


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Sounds like the ACU may have deployed the pretensioner, but didn't measure enough G-force in the impact to trip a collision code. Deployment often scorches circuits in the ACU, and usually there are accompanying internal failures. Sometimes the wiring is also affected, if you find any melting or scorching in the pretensioner connector then you should check integrity of the wires before replacing the belt. Take the battery loose and pop the connectors at both ends of the pretensioner circuit, then ohm the wires to each other and to ground (both should read infinity) and end-to-end for continuity. If the wires are okay, I'd try replacing the seat belt first and then resetting the box. If the internal codes clear you're home free, if not you'll need to replace the ACU.


Update: replaced Tensioner and reset codes, b1180 is now a history code, b1015 is still current, and b1047 and the other b1015 are “stored”, no idea where to go from here. No scorching or abnormalities on the pre tensioner wires

now getting code 17 when the airbag light is flashing, which tells me I may have to replace my airbag sensor/computer module correct?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

AlbertaRogue said:


> now getting code 17 when the airbag light is flashing, which tells me I may have to replace my airbag sensor/computer module correct?


Yep, an unclearable B1015 is terminal. You'll need another ACU.


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yep, an unclearable B1015 is terminal. You'll need another ACU.


Or is it possible to just send it off and get it “reset” by these people I see specializing in resetting them online? From everything I can tell, they’re vin specific as well?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

AlbertaRogue said:


> Or is it possible to just send it off and get it “reset” by these people I see specializing in resetting them online?


Probably not in this case. Most of them can be reset for collision codes if there's no circuit damage, but the codes in yours imply it's damaged.


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Probably not in this case. Most of them can be reset for collision codes if there's no circuit damage, but the codes in yours imply it's damaged.


Alright, thanks for all your help! I just wish the modules weren’t VIN specific.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. Yes, unfortunately it's circus even to try to locate a good used one, because Nissan uses the same base p/n with different programming for different models. The p/n on the box will only tell you the base p/n. The real p/n is usually stored in firmware and has to be uploaded to identify what you have. That's obviously impractical in a junkyard. To find the best deal on a new one, visit NissanPartsDeal.com and plug in your VIN. NPD uses the same database and drawings as Nissan DPC, so the p/n it gives you will be VIN-specific. Then you can search using that p/n and be sure you're buying the right part.


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. Yes, unfortunately it's circus even to try to locate a good used one, because Nissan uses the same base p/n with different programming for different models. The p/n on the box will only tell you the base p/n. The real p/n is usually stored in firmware and has to be uploaded to identify what you have. That's obviously impractical in a junkyard. To find the best deal on a new one, visit NissanPartsDeal.com and plug in your VIN. NPD uses the same database and drawings as Nissan DPC, so the p/n it gives you will be VIN-specific. Then you can search using that p/n and be sure you're buying the right part.


Thanks! I think in going to look for a good used one with a matching number, some places sell “tested” ones. I’ll pull out the centre console tomorrow. It’s not worth spending the $$$ for a brand new one. What a pain in the @$$ it’s all been lol


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## AlbertaRogue (Mar 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. Yes, unfortunately it's circus even to try to locate a good used one, because Nissan uses the same base p/n with different programming for different models. The p/n on the box will only tell you the base p/n. The real p/n is usually stored in firmware and has to be uploaded to identify what you have. That's obviously impractical in a junkyard. To find the best deal on a new one, visit NissanPartsDeal.com and plug in your VIN. NPD uses the same database and drawings as Nissan DPC, so the p/n it gives you will be VIN-specific. Then you can search using that p/n and be sure you're buying the right part.


Would you by chance be able to tell me what the smaller number on the airbag module tag means? Just wondering if I only need the matching part number or if the bottom one is important as well? Might just be a date of manufacture for all I know.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I was afraid of that, the 98820-JM60A doesn't even show up as a good part number. That means it's a "base" number and the firmware determines the actual part. NPD shows the official p/n that probably fits your ride is a K8820-JM60A which supersedes to a -JM62B.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You should get in touch with SafetyRestore.com. They reset controllers for $49 and may be able to help you out.


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