# Just bought B12Chris's sentra



## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

Have a couple questions about the Ga16I. 

This sentra is my daily, I have a MR2 turbo as a toy, but I want to do as many free/easy/cheap mods to this sentra while it still has this motor(want to swap it eventually like everyone else).

First off, is there a Easy way to delete the EGR?
Where is the IACV on a throttle body injected car?
Does anyone do anything fancy with the silly intake cover? Possibly an old carb style intake? (big round, flat top, etc)
Any particular reason to run the PCV back to the intake? Or is it gonna be okay if I just throw a filter/catchcan on it? (also, is it just me or are there two PCVs?)
Anyone ever relocate the battery to the trunk? Other than extending the positive wire, any other issues to run into?


Also, I want a tach, cant find a gauge in the junk yard, is there a particular wire coming of of the trans I can tap into?

I know what to do on a fuel injected car, but throttle body injection is new territory to me.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

- I'm sure you could remove the EGR and make a simple block off plate, for the metal pipe you could cut it, hammer the pipe together and solder the end, I did that on my hardbody I used to own.

- The IACV is located on the back side of the TB and it also includes the AAC and FICD valves in one unit although all 3 (AAC,FICD & IACV) are separate units, pic below:










- The intake cover, are you referring to the top of the air cleaner? A few members on here have made their own versions of a cold air intake using a cone filter, although the one pictured below isn't pulling cold air in, I would have extended the pipe closer to the front of the car and than installed the filter, pic's below:



















- PCV not 100% sure, you could probably install a small filter on it, but you would have to clean/replace it often

- I was (still may someday) relocate my battery to the trunk, was going to do this to make room for a cone style air filter if I ever make an adapter for the TB, my plan was to use a fused distribution block the type you would use for car audio, I was going to mount the battery in the trunk, run a ground cable from the battery somewhere in the trunk and than run a large power cable up to the input on the distribution block, was thinking of using 1/0 power cable, than any wire that was originally connected to the battery in it's stock location would now go to the distribution block using the appropriate sized fuse, the block I have uses maxi fuses. Only problem with this is some people have mentioned the starter draws so many amps you would need to use a large fuse for it.

- For the tach you have 2 choices, install an aftermarket tach or swap the gauge cluster, I have done both, first using an aftermarket Autometer, and now I have the stock cluster with the factory tach, which I like better.

The aftermarket tach you need to tap into the wire near the coil, not sure off hand what color it is but I can check my car tomorrow if you want to go this way.

For the cluster swap ignore the writeup on here and do it my way, much easier and no cutting or splicing wires, the way I did it is to locate a sentra with the tach cluster, remove the cluster, than remove the whole harness that runs from the SMJ (super Multiple Junction) behind the fuse box, one 10mm bolt holds the large plug in, and that harness goes up to the cluster and your warning lights and the defroster switch, etc. that are installed in the black bezel you have to remove to get the cluster out. Pics of both tachs below:

Aftermarket tach, Pulsar steering wheel, thicker than sentra wheel:










Stock tach cluster:


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

Thanks for all of the information!

I just checked my A/C out with a dye light and I need a new evaporator, Im assuming this means pulling the dash(which looks terrible). Are there any new dash options? Will the A/C work with an SR20(Im assuming Ill need new lines to and from the compressor). How good is a fully functioning A/C system in a B12? Is it worth the trouble of fixing it?


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

It's not hard to get the evaporator out, I've replaced my AC compressor 3-4 times and each time we replaced the expansion valve (which is within the housing for the evaporator), where did you see the dye leaking from? No idea about using SR20 parts. Are you referring to if you swapped in an SR20 engine using the GA16I AC parts?

The first time I had my AC repaired, new compressor, drier, expansion valve, my guy had it blowing out in the 30's !! and that is in the Florida summer too!! Freeze your butt off for sure.

I've also replaced my entire dash not that terrible, but not for the faint of heart !! LOL, I have pics of that also.

here's what you will need to do to get the evaporator out:

remove the glove box, remove the lower dash where the glove box sits in

unbolt the evaporator housing 4-6 screws can't recall,

remove pipes under hood from evaporator

unplug harness on top of evaporator housing

remove housing,

that's about it, some pics below:

glove box and lower dash removed, this is only from the right of the radio to the pass. door, that is all that needs to be removed ( of the dash) to get the evaporator out:










another pic:


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

More great information. Thanks man. 

Last few questions.
B13 coilovers, will they fit on a B12? I heard that they kinda do.

Other than a pulsar, where can I get some sway bars? 

I heard the rear bar is hard to get but can I get the front bar off of a b13? Or would it be better to get a b12 sway bar?

I have access to 2 b12s and several b13s/14s in multiple junk yards. No pulsars, found one stanza(not sure if there are an parts I can use off of that). My sentra is essentially stripped, so the more parts that fit the better. Im trying to conserve money and weight, while maxing out the performance of this thing until I have a place/time to drop a real motor in it.



BTW, if anyone needs some b12 parts, I dont mind pulling some if I'm compensated.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

Just started writing this than accidentally closed my browser !!

I've heard B-13 coil overs will work but never tried it, I'm sure there is some info on the site if you can find it or maybe someone else can post a link.

Pulsar SE sway bars are your best bet, the bars need to come from a Pulsar SE with the CA18 engine, those are the thickest bars. I have them on mine with urethane bushings (a member on here had the bushings all made custom way back), my car did not come with a front bar at all I don't know if yours has one or not but adding the front bar from the Pulsar SE and replacing the rear bar from same car makes the car handle very flat. Very good upgrade as they both bolt right in.

Not sure if the front B-13 bar is the same, per the FSM it appears to be but never tried it, the rear bar from the B-13 looks like it mounts differently.

The Pulsar and Sentra are basically the same cars, suspension wise, the Stanza I believe is too different, best bet is to keep your eyes out for a Pulsar SE with the CA18 engine, or if you just want a front bar and your car never had one you can use one from a Pulsar with any engine until you find the thicker bar, the Pulsar SE bars really make a BIG difference!!.

Where are you located by the way?

here's a link to my sentra pics, check them out if you get a chance:

http://tinypic.com/useralbum.php?ua=o9ZpCT53udESeDh3h3/Hbw==&page=1


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

Shreveport. Thanks for the info again.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

No problem


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

So I found a b13 sway bar, attempted to bolt it up and realize that I need the b12 sway mounts. Also, does the sway bar go up over the exhaust?


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

Yes, it should go over the exhaust, I believe that is why that dip is in the bar.

see page 24 here for how the bushing mounts are supposed to face:

http://www.********.com/FSM/Sentra/1994_Sentra/fa.pdf

substitute n i c o c l u b (no spaces) for the asterisks in the above link


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

Awesome. Looks like I just need those bushings and mounts. The ones I have are a little to small. Hopefully I can find a B12 in the junk yard that has them. I'm trying to get it ready for autox this sunday. I dont have full interior(no carpet), but they said it would be fine and let me run H stock.


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

B13 sway bar does NOT fit.


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

I have an EGR block off plate off an 80s Z and it worked fine. They use the same gasket so the plate worked out fine. You can use a breather filter or a PCV. The stock setup keeps moisture out of your crankcase and clears the system more efficiently. But either will work fine.


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## fairlanephantom (Feb 3, 2010)

Also a tach really just needs the signal off of the negative on your coil. From there you'll need a ground and likely two lines to a load line. Your choice if you want the illumination to always be on or with your headlights.


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## XakkGrill (May 23, 2012)

So a little update, I bought a pulsar steering wheel, and some 14"BBS look-a-like wheels. Will an 85 b11 gauge cluster swap in? Only one Ive found with a tach.

Took it tray sliding at a drift event as a big joke.
DSC_0627.mp4 video by j_ting_318 - Photobucket
Had tons of fun, loving the car.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

No, the B11 cluster will be different


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