# Freeze plug on KA24E



## TWX (Jan 29, 2010)

'95 Hardbody 2.4L with about 165,000 miles overheated awhile back and has sat since; the rubber gasket on the radiator cap had swollen up and wouldn't let any pressure past. There was a steam hiss and drip/stream of coolant from the driver's side of the block about three quarters of the way back.

Found a bad freeze plug, the driver's side, the rearward of the two along the side.










If I can do it in-truck looks like I'll have to remove at least the exhaust manifold and the headpipe/cat to get to it. Anything else I should know or will have to remove to do this?


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## TWX (Jan 29, 2010)

I know I'm replying to myself, hopefully this'll help others. Bear in mind that I have a two-post lift if you're going to do this, it might have been easier for me than it will be for you.

I took the front driver's wheel off. Took the flexible fender liner insert out. Broke some of the plastic retainers, will need to buy more.

Took the headpipe off. Broke the bolt at the flange to the catalytic converter. Will need to extract that and replace, or drill-out and use a nut and bolt to hold it together. Will probably also need a new gasket.

Attempted to use a long, LONG socket extension and a hammer to spin the freeze plug, ended up punching right through it. Took a long prybar and used the edge of the crankcase near the dipstick tube insert point as the fulcrum point for the lever, and used a hammer to try to pull the thing out. Deformed it further.

Switched back to hammering on the prybar through the gap between the fender and the frame. Spun it.

Put the prybar back in it and was able to pop it out.

While I was trying to remove the exhaust manifold (which turns out isn't necessary) I spend about two hours trying to remove the exhaust manifold heatshield. It's a HUGE pain in the butt. It turns out that I need to, one broken-off exhaust manifold stud and nut fell out, and another nut is loose enough that I can spin the washer. I need to pull the manifold, extract the broken stud hopefully, probably replace the valvecover gasket while I'm at it, and reassemble with exhaust manifold gaskets. Plus with the exhaust manifold off installing the new freeze plug will probably be a lot easier. One of those kits with the hardened rod with the bend near the business-end would work through, going through the gap between the frame and the fender liner.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

I'd like to know the recommended way to pull a freeze plug, if anyone sees this thread and knows that answer.

And, how are we supposed to seat a new plug?


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## TWX (Jan 29, 2010)

jp2code said:


> I'd like to know the recommended way to pull a freeze plug, if anyone sees this thread and knows that answer.
> 
> And, how are we supposed to seat a new plug?


When I built my small block Chrysler engine I used a large socket that was almost as large as the freeze plugs to hammer them in. Admittedly this was on the engine stand, not in the vehicle.

There are tools for installing them that are basically a fitting on the end of a hardened rod that one can use in-vehicle. I plan to buy such a set for installation even if I pull the exhaust manifold.

As for removal, spinning it is what I've always heard, but in this case I didn't hit it in the right spot so it didn't spin. I suppose a slide-hammer with a hook might work, but they're not supposed to be easy to remove on-purpose.



I'm tempted to flush the block before I declare this done. There was a lot of gunk down at the bottom of the water jacket and when I pulled the drain plug I had to stick a pick in to pierce the gunk to make a drain hole.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Be sure to use sealant when installing the new plug; something like 'permatex aviation-form-a-gasket'.


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## TWX (Jan 29, 2010)

Will do. Also going to flush the block's water jacket. It's NASTY in there and will only corrode-out again if I don't clear it.


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