# Help setting timing



## aradapilot (May 29, 2007)

1990 240sx, ka24e

so, I just swapped in a new camshaft to replace this:










much better now, the valves line up:










and a note for anyone, getting the cam gear back on without removing the tensioner is a huge pain.

so I've got the motor set at tdc. as you can see below, the notch is straight up, so the cam is set for tdc.










I put the chain back on the gear to the same tooth I took it off on (...hopefully, I'm clumsy) and was wondering exactly what to do to time it correctly, as I've never done that before and can't find the procedure detailed anywhere.
The shiny link is marked (well, where it was, I cranked it around once so it's now pretty far down), and the little timing dot I know it's supposed to line up with after god knows how many revolutions. The distributor is exactly at the firing point for cyl 1.

So basically, what do I need to do next? the fsm says torque all the bolts and nothing else. Will it start without any further adjustment? and if so will it run alright? I just need the steps between now and turning the key, because I really can't find anything on it and I'd rather not be a tooth off and bend some valves or have bad timing...

Thanks!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Normally, according to the FSM, the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark would be at the 5:00 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark would be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position. 

However in your case, even though the silver mating mark is in the wrong place, it looks like the cam timing is set correctly. The #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke so the keyway for the cam sprocket is at the 12:00 o'clock position and the sprocket gear mark is at the 3:00 o'clock position.

If you haven't disturbed the ignition distributor, the motor should fire right up.


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## aradapilot (May 29, 2007)

torqued everything (I had my roommate hold the crank from moving while i went at the cam bolt, and he got bruised  ). closed everything up and she starts. a little whining/light scraping at the beginning, but it was fading so I assume it's just the new parts being broken in as the oil flows.
The stationary timing marker seems to have broken off the block probably years ago and was never noticed - looks like I'll have to time it by ear.
After she started I held it at about 2k for a while, then tested up to 5500 and she got up there fine. The idle, however, was fine at the beginning but was hanging out 1500-2000 after going for a ride. Not sure what causes this, we'll see if it goes away.

Bad things that happen when your car sits too long: 
Tranny's sticking a bit and won't shift to third (sigh, autotragic) but the car sat for a while and probably just needs the fluid flushed as there was no such issue before she died and the tranny hasn't been touched.
Brake rotors are a little rusty, thatll wear off by itself though after a few miles.

Good news is, I drove a couple blocks, aside from being unexpectedly stuck in 2nd gear and sloppy brakes, it felt good to be back on the road in a real car.


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## aradapilot (May 29, 2007)

alright, timing looks good.
now I'm a bit worried about what's happening with the trans. i went down to the highway today so I could test out over 35mph (my town is full of cops on the side roads)...i can get her to shift, but only when she gets to 4000+rpm, sometimes up close to redline, in the previous. gets into 2nd a bit lower, but to get 3rd or 4th it shifts way too late...this is just normal highway driving, should shift around 3000-3500. Does the tps control that at all? May have been damaged as I had it off for a few days. I know the old style automatics better where it was all valves (fluids full)...I don't know what's electrically controlled on these.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

You may have hit the nail on the head about the TPS causing the shifting problem. Check the TPS harness connector for oxidized pins. Also check the TPS resistance values; if you've got an FSM, the info is there.


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## OchnofConcrete (Jan 7, 2008)

a good multimeter does wonders... all the electrical stuff from harnesses to every sensor to fuses and relays... that scares most from playing with connectors allows you to quickly diagnose a bad anything. as for automatic trannys.... w/o ever workin on one, it'd be japanese to me... and not in a good way. lol


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