# 2002 Altima 2.5 losing coolant/rough start



## Troys2002altima (Oct 7, 2013)

I've read these threads for awhile on coolant loss rough start etc. mine does all that and at 145,000 I went to swap spark plugs the end ones went okay the #2 was rusty below the threads and I just put new plugs in 6 months ago. The #3 was so tight I thought I'd break it off or strip out the hole!!! That's with a 1/2 breaker bar. Needless to say I left it alone. Time for a Head. I've been seeing reman heads for sale on EBAY from Heads only in Grand Prairie TX. Has anyone dealt with them? The dealer wants $700ish and that's a stripped down version. Also would I be foolish to just resurface my head and do new gaskets? And lastly the EBAY head gasket sellers include a tube of red RTV sealant , it that recommended by Nissan?

Thanks in advance Troy:crazy:


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## ClydeBarbara (Sep 11, 2013)

In this case you might want to contact the customer care of Nissan..that might work.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Consult the service manual, but there are probably a couple places where the RTV is used. One area is likely where the top of the timing cover meats the top of the block; usually a small spot of RTV is placed here at the seam before the head gasket is installed. There is also an aluminum part that bolts to the front of the head that requires RTV sealant. 

As far as the head, it's hard to say without having the head inspected by a machine shop, which will cost money. It may just need a resurfacing and removal of the spark plugs, but until it's removed, who knows? As far as reman cylinder heads, I've used National Cylinder Head several times and have been happy with them. When you receive the head, it comes with the gaskets and a return shipping label. Just put the oil head in the box, slap on the sticker and give it to UPS. They are showing the Altima head for $340.00 US, part #544-1302. It comes assembled with the valve adjustment set. This is their site:

National Head


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Troys2002altima said:


> I've read these threads for awhile on coolant loss rough start etc. mine does all that and at 145,000 I went to swap spark plugs the end ones went okay the #2 was rusty below the threads and I just put new plugs in 6 months ago. The #3 was so tight I thought I'd break it off or strip out the hole!!! That's with a 1/2 breaker bar. Needless to say I left it alone.


You might want to try to remove the #3 plug in order to salvage the head. I ran into a similar problem on a 300ZX where four plugs were basically frozen into the heads. What I did was use a lot of PB-blaster penetrating spray on those plugs; let it sit overnight. Then with a breaker bar, very gradually loosened it just a hair; sprayed some more PB-blaster; then tightened it just a hair. Kept repeating the sequence; this slowly allowed the plug to become un-seized. I followed it up with a thread chaser to clean up the threads.

When installing plugs, always use a little anti-seize compound on the threads and tighten the plug to the specified torque value with a torque wrench.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

NGK actually recommends against installing anti-seize or other lubricant on the threads of the spark plugs, saying it will tend to cause an incorrect torqueing of the plug. My experience with them is that if they are seized in the head, there is usually a reason. Often it's because someone who installed the last set overtightened them and/or stripped the threads, but other reasons could be build up of carbon on the end threads, or corrosion due to a cylinder that is burning cooling due to a failed head gasket.


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