# 1999 Maxima HUGE trouble!



## Mono_E_Mono (Feb 5, 2015)

My '99 Maxima is a one owner with 100k miles. Last month it died on me would crank all day but not start. Changed fuel pump first. Then Camshaft pos. sensors (both ref and pos) as well as knock Sensor. Still no go. Sent it to Nissan Dealership thinking it was the immobilizer since the security light stayed solid when in on position. They say computer needs to be replaced. I tell them to go ahead. No they say there is a short somewhere and are looking. It's been there two weeks! Anyone go through something similar that could heLP me? I've read about grounding the pos battery terminal and so on. I didn't do that. Could that be it? Seems they may give up. Would hate to lose a great car due to something simple. Thanks in advance.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The common place for shorts and open circuits was in the engine harness at the bend between the engine and the firewall on the right side of the engine compartment. Usually there will be several stored trouble codes. The fix was to repair the wire(s) if it was just one or two wires that were broken or shorted, but if there were several, the entire EGI harness would be replaced. There was a TSB on the issue years ago. I can't say for sure if it applies to your problem, though.


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## Mono_E_Mono (Feb 5, 2015)

××UPDATE××
Ok. After over 2 weeks, got a call saying car is fixed. I go pick it up and notice the security light on 10 miles from dealership AND a check engine light comes on. I drive it back and They say my purge valve(no biggie) is reason for CEL BUT they also notice a severe leak coming from the radiator and quote me a $700 price.

The mechanic says he didnt reset the car (huh?) And that was the reason for security light. Then he whispers "just go home and get a radiator and put it on yerself to save $". Security light is on but I druve hone thinking maybe it is stuck on and has nothing to do with VATS, since ive read some maximas have sec. Lights that stay on all the tine with no consequence. 

The next morning the security light is still on, but this time, SURPRISE (!), crank, but no start. AND I notice my radiator has blow fluid all under hood! Radiator has NEVER leaked a drop before they worked on it... let alone gushed! Upon inspection, the top of the rad. is coming apart! I have it towed back to dealership(At their expense) informing them it isn't fixed and that my radiator was broken while they had it (the hydrolic "shocks" that hold my hood up are shot, requiring use of a stick to hold open. My theory is they rested one end of what they used-some kind of stick most likely-to hold open the hood on the radiator and then tried to close the hood... busting the radiator). They replace rad. With no problems (Did they know? I expected some resistance.) And they callsaying car is running fine and security light hasn't been on since they've had it... and, if I could wait, the service manager would like to continue driving it. I pick it up the following afternoon. I forgot to say they left wires hanging from beneath the dash(Not to mention not performing a full Detail job promised cuz of my wait). Even When I go to get it the third time, wires are still hanging! I point it out to manager and he begins fixing it right then. I drive it home and no security light (KNOCK WOOD!). Strange. Huh? 

Wonder if they programmed key correctly the last time and just didn't want to suggest they f++ked up? Side note, the mechanic that worked on and had it "fixed"... leaving wires dangling, not 'reseting'(what did he reset? ) security light - causing me to drive a car whose VATS could kick in anytime was fired immediately after I left.

All in all $1100 for a new ECU, a 2 1/2+ weeks wait, 2 trips back to dealership, a broken rad.(TThey did replace it with a new one), and a mysterious self correcting VATS(MMaybe the first ECU was a dud... or even used one and they threw another in and programed it correctly?) Later, I got my car back in ALMOST the same shape it was in prior to this nightmare. I wonder if a new ECU was even needed. Since the light was still on and the immobilizer kicked in after they put a new one in... leaving car with the exact problem it had to begin with!

They never even mentioned the immobilizerrWhen telling me what they thought the problem could be... And one worker I talked to didn't k ow what that was! Wonder if the key just needed to be properly programmed? I was able to get CEL diagnostic codes by turning screw in ECU and was able to clear CEL with same method. What do you guys think? 

The fact the mechanic that 'fixed' my car was fired immediately after and it took the service manager overseeing things to get light off (though they claim they never saw it.). Oh and when I got it, my valet key was also programmed and it was the key they used to drive car to me. Now it won't start the cat and it prompts the security light when in ignition,as it should with a valet key. If same ECU, or if they were programmed right 1st, how is this possible. 

Now my maxima is jerking and seeming to almost stall when I stop at red lights! Doesn't do it in P or N. It doesn't soubd great overall either. I took it to a friend and he used his comp to see it from to 750 and below while idling in D. Under the hood he took a broomstick and stuck it near Idle Tensioner Belt and pulley and put his ear to it (nno joke! Shade tree mechanic trick?) And said that's the problem (i listened and heard a grinding sound.). Does that sound right? Guy knows his stuff. Didn't hhave to clean gas tank when I changed pump cuz, as you guys know, don't have to drop it since pump goes under seat. So it's not thaT

I Apologize for Looong comment. Just wanted to give you guys a thorough update in hopes I can help someone else. And maybe get some opinions on the strange way Serra Nissan of Sylacauga AL went about 'fixing' my car and if they smell inept and/or just plain shAdy service. 

Thanks for interest and for the reply. And thanks in advance to comments on this post. I hope to post some positive Maxima experiences soon! :^>


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## Happymax (Aug 14, 2013)

Your Dealers non service Dept. Monkeys have no idea what is really wrong and how to really fix it. I have been given the you need a new computer before,just trying to steal from me. Computer was fine. As for fixing the leaking Radiator your non service Dept. will just pull it and send it to a real Radiator repair shop,and mark it up 40%, take your Nissan to a real Radiator repair shop yourself and pay a lot less.

Your first mistake was taking your Maxima to that stealer dealers service dept. Find another shop to really take the time to find what is really wrong and get it fixed.

They just robbed you and sadly there is not much you can do now. Sorry you had this problem.


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