# bypass the starter circuit? 94 Sentra GA16DE



## kp3ft (Sep 25, 2010)

Trying to fix a starting issue, but I'm at the point where I'm simply baffled. I've already been through the service manual and Haynes manual. The problem is intermittent where the starter won't engage when the key is turned to START, it doesn't matter if the car has been sitting for days and is cold or if it has just been running. Most of the time it starts fine, but my wife was stranded once because of it, and it seems to be getting worse. I can hear the relay click under the hood. I replaced the starter and solenoid, cleaned cables, checked connections, and replaced the relay under the hood. Same EXACT problem. I don't think it's the ignition switch itself, because you can hear the relay click. To make it start, usually you just keep turning the key and finally it engages the starter. Sometimes it works to just hold the key in START position and it engages the starter a few seconds later. Unfortunately, sometimes it just won't start. I've had my wife hold the key down while I move wires, connectors, and relays around to see if I can track down a loose connection or something, but no luck.
I'm thinking of just bypassing the entire starting circuit by installing a heavy-duty pushbutton switch on the dashboard so it connects the solenoid directly to 12 volts through a fuse. Is there any problem with this that anyone can think of? Thanks for any help.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Manual? Automatic?
Manual - crappy clutch interlock switch. I've had 2 adjust mine a few times over the past 8-ish years to keep it where I want it.
Automatic - bad neutral safety switch, try starting it in neutral rather than park.
The clicking under the hood isn't necessarily the starter relay. But if it is actually the starter relay that's clicking, just because it clicks doesn't mean the contacts are good. I don't have a B13 (have 2 B14's), but in mu car, there are a handful of identical relays in the relay/fuse box, a lot of them are interchangeable. Might want to try swapping the starter relay out with another relay, like maybe a horn relay, and trying the horn, and the starter for that matter.
A multimeter would come in awful handy here.
When you hit the starter with the headlights on, do the headlights dim out a bit or not at all?
I don't think there's any need to bypass anything


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Don't rule out the possibility that the new starter solenoid is faulty, especially if it's an aftermarket reman. unit. It wouldn't be the first bad "new" starter that I've heard about!


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## inthered (Sep 4, 2011)

We suffered through months of intermittent starting (and my wife being stranded more than once while I stubbornly bench tested parts in my spare time and replaced what was cheap) on our 92 XE manual. I ended up with a different diagnosis (faulty starter, read on), but here are a couple other things we tried that might be applicable to your situation:

The inhibitor relay has the same guts as the fuel pump relay in our car and likely yours; you can check the code on the casing. At a time when it's not starting, try swapping them: starting, then dying because the fuel pump isn't getting juice, is a pretty good sign that it's the relay. Of course, if it's intermittent, physically disturbing the relay might be enough to momentarily put to rights again.

While our car doesn't have a screw in the center of the pins in the bottom of the relay package (in the house that Jack built), there's a page somewhere (and this is my first post ever, just guessing I'm not allowed to post URLs yet) showing some relay packages that do. If you've got a screw in the bottom of the inhibitor relay, make sure it's tight.

The negative battery cable is grounded beneath the air filter housing, and on our Ohio car the p-clamp holding it was totally rusted and the exposed portion of the cable was really rusty. When I went to replace the battery cables, maybe 2/3 of the black cable's strands sheared apart when I flexed the cable at that point.

Our story: After bench testing the starter twice; using a remote starter with 100% success every time I tried it; alternately hearing and not hearing clicks when trying to start; and having some trouble push-starting the car a couple times -- all leading me down various diagnostic garden paths --, I tried the broomstick trick (whack the starter with something softer than a hammer but firmer than your hand), confirmed that whacking the starter would get it to actuate, and kicked myself a couple times.

Finally, in case it's helpful for future searchers or if you were wondering what a n00b I am: Advance doesn't distinguish between manual/auto when claiming what's an "exact" fit, so I bought a Bosch reman that's an "exact" fit... for an auto. The folks at Advance were unsympathetic when I asked them to waive the restock charge. The physical distinction on the starter is a hood that covers the gear even when it protrudes, opposed to an exposed face on the manual's starter.

Cheers!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I avoid Advance Auto Parts when it comes to starters and alternators, as well as most electrical parts. They're okay for some parts, like oil and filters, auto wax, spark plugs (as long as you don't let them talk you into Bosch platinums for anything other than a European car). When it comes to Nissans, your best bet for starters, alternators and tune up parts is genuine Nissan.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

smj999smj said:


> I avoid Advance Auto Parts when it comes to starters and alternators, as well as most electrical parts. They're okay for some parts, like oil and filters, auto wax, spark plugs (as long as you don't let them talk you into Bosch platinums for anything other than a European car). When it comes to Nissans, your best bet for starters, alternators and tune up parts is genuine Nissan.


One thing going for them is the whole "lifetime warranty" on certain parts...if you keep the receipt, if the store decides to honor that warranty, if...if...if...
And one other thing, they sell those pine tree air fresheners.  and fart can mufflers for the kiddies.


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## inthered (Sep 4, 2011)

> as long as you don't let them talk you into Bosch platinums for anything other than a European car


I've no reason to not believe this, but is the issue wasting money or poor performance/wear/etc.? The last I found on those Bosch vs NGK was Bosch Platinum vs. NGK Platinum Spark Plugs, although we don't have an SR20 and don't have particularly high-perf needs.


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## ahardb0dy (Nov 9, 2003)

I have 2 things to add, first I replaced the starter in my 87 Nissan pickup years ago and it lasted 3 days, second one lasted a week both local rebuilt units, 3rd one was made by beck arnley and was still working when I got rid of the truck years later,

second, this may work for you it did in my 94 Pathfinder, the pathfinder every so often and it was getting worse when I tried starting it sometimes it would just click and I had to play with the key multiple times to get it started, I did a mod someone suggested on pathfinder forum I belong too and it has started every time since.

What I did was install an aftermarket relay to feed power to the starter, I took the small wire that goes to the starter solenoid and used that to trigger the new relay, than ran the output of the relay to the starter solenoid, of course you run power from the battery to the relay and ground the relay. But as I said the truck has started every time since I've done this.


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## inthered (Sep 4, 2011)

So, after using Bosch Platinums in a recent switch, I wonder whether there's something I don't know, and should, about Bosch vs NGK. Certainly, the NGKs worked just fine beforehand and looked OK when I pulled them; I think I maybe saved a buck apiece on on-sale Bosch plugs that time around.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

My advice regarding NGK's comes with my experience working as a Nissan technician. I've replaced many spark plugs in Nissans (having worked for Nissan for 16 years). In all that time, I've only encountered one NGK plug that failed. It was in a 95 Maxima and the porcelain cracked, causing a misfire. I can't say how many times I've pulled NGK's out of an engine and found the electrode worn down to, and in some cases below, the porcelain, and the engine ran fine previously on the old, worn out plugs. For example, the original plugs in the old Quest vans came with NGK plugs that had both the NGK and Motorcraft #'s on them, as the Mercury Villager was also built on the same assembly line. I once pulled a set of original, standard, copper-core NGK's out of a 97 Quest that had 148,000 miles on it! The electrode was worn well below the porcelain, yet the engine ran without a misfire. I now install NGK's in everything I own, including my 65 Mustang 289 V8, my Nissans, of course, my chainsaws, Briggs Stratton powered generator, and Craftsman weed trimmer. I put them in all of the cars I work on, which includes GM's, Fords and Chryslers, among others. I've never had a problem with an NGK plug. Also, during my time with Nissan, I had a 240SX KA24DE in which the owner had recently installed Bosch Platinum plugs. I believe this was in the mid-90's. The car wouldn't run worth a cr*p! After a number of tests, the plugs were replaced with NGK's and the car ran perfect! After that, I ran into two similar scenarios, both involving Bosch Platinums. The only other plug I recall having issues in a Nissan engine was a Champion spark plug put into an E15S Sentra. A whole was burnt through the #1 piston. I've never encountered any issues with the Bosch copper-core plugs, Autolites, Densos or AC Delcos in a Nissan engine. Maybe the new Bosch platinums are better than the old?... I don't know. All I know is I've had great success using NGK spark plugs (and ignition wires) no matter what I've put them into and I plan on sticking with them!


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ x2
Although I used to run nothing but AC-Delco in my GM's and Bosch in my Dodge, I switched over about 8 years ago to NGK in everything I drive, including lawn mowers, etc.
Haven't had a plug related problem since.
Are the rest of the plug brands crap? Probably not. Might they run fine? Sure, most likely.
(except for Champion...have those things always been garbage or what?)
NGK FTW...


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