# Newbie on the way: need suggestions on maintainace



## sinepi (Mar 30, 2004)

I bought a 1997 Nissan Maxima about one and a half month ago. It has 98K on the odermeter at that time. I drove almost another 800miles after I bought it. I need to have a long trip in the coming two weeks, and therefore I want to do some necessary maintainance before I leave. I am a newbie and I am not sure which is required for maintainance. So I made a small list based on the manual, and I am hoping the experts here can give me suggestions and advices so that I can have a nice and safe trip. Thanks inadvance. 
BTW, I don't have the maintainance record from the first owner, so I don't know which I should start with. 


The first three have already been done, 
1. Air filter change. -- Done.
2. Engine oil and oil filter change. -- Done. The oil that I used is Exxon 5W-30, not sure if it is ok. The filter is STF brand, is it good or not? I used to plan to buy a higher priced one, but the Autozone guys told me it not necessary to use those high priced oil filter, are they correct?
3. Coolant change. -- Done.

The following is still on planning, not sure if I need to do them. And also not sure if I am missing something that is crutial to maintain at this milage. 
4. spark plug. I saw there is a "SCH-PLATINUM+4" in Autozone, but $5.99 each. I need 6 if I want to replace all. Do I need to change them? Also, in Autozone, "BOSCH-PLATINUM+4" and "BOSCH-PLATINUM_2" both said ** ALREADY GAPPED FROM THE FACTORY - DO NOT RE-GAP **, while the cheapest one "BOSCH-PLATINUM" didn't say that. Does it mean that I need to re-gap it if I buy that one? How? 

5. brake pad. The pad now still has almost 0.5cm left, do I need to change them?

6. In the manual, it also says "inspect fule line every 30K". I am not clear about what it means. Do I need to check it? And it also talk about the fuel filter, do I also need to change it? 

That's what I can think of so far. I'd really appreciate any suggestions from you. Best thanks!


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## Terran (May 7, 2004)

Don't buy that bosch crap. You should only use NGK. Plats are the what comes on the max from the factory, but copper can also be used and if anything will perform better. Coppers cost 1/5 as much but should be replace every 30k instead of 60k with the plats. You can get plugs from JRnissan.com and use promo code "maxima" for a total of 25% off nissan list. The coppers are nissan part number 22401-50Y05 and will cost like $1.60ea. plus shipping if I remember correctly. You may want to look into replacing the fuel filter and pcv valve too. Check out maxima.org and read the faqs and that'll probably answer all your questions on how to do these (or you can post if not).


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## lawabidn (Mar 28, 2004)

yeah, stay with stock NGKs... I cant tell you how many times Maximas come in with misses and bad idles from Bosch plugs! You should be able to get 90k from your platnums

If your pads get less than 3-4/32ths... I would replace them, as they are prob warping the rotors by now anyways (normal prob with Max brakes, unless you drive all highway)

If the fuel filter looks old or covered with lots of dust, I would consider changing it.

Other things you might want to change/consider

1. Trans flush every 30-60k miles
2. a couple of cans/bottles of fuel injector flush/cleaner every 5-10k

-corey


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## sinepi (Mar 30, 2004)

Thanks so much. But I cannot connect jrnissan.com. Is there anything wrong? 
And where can I find NGK spark plug in local stores? cuz I need to do it soon.



Terran said:


> Don't buy that bosch crap. You should only use NGK. Plats are the what comes on the max from the factory, but copper can also be used and if anything will perform better. Coppers cost 1/5 as much but should be replace every 30k instead of 60k with the plats. You can get plugs from JRnissan.com and use promo code "maxima" for a total of 25% off nissan list. The coppers are nissan part number 22401-50Y05 and will cost like $1.60ea. plus shipping if I remember correctly. You may want to look into replacing the fuel filter and pcv valve too. Check out maxima.org and read the faqs and that'll probably answer all your questions on how to do these (or you can post if not).


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## sinepi (Mar 30, 2004)

thanks! 
one question, what is the unit of "3-4/32ths...", inch? so do you mean 3/32 inch to 4/32 inch thickness? 
another question, "a couple of cans/bottles of fuel injector flush/cleaner", do you mean to add some fuel injector flush/cleaner additives? or something else? 



lawabidn said:


> yeah, stay with stock NGKs... I cant tell you how many times Maximas come in with misses and bad idles from Bosch plugs! You should be able to get 90k from your platnums
> 
> If your pads get less than 3-4/32ths... I would replace them, as they are prob warping the rotors by now anyways (normal prob with Max brakes, unless you drive all highway)
> 
> ...


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## lawabidn (Mar 28, 2004)

sinepi said:


> thanks!
> one question, what is the unit of "3-4/32ths...", inch? so do you mean 3/32 inch to 4/32 inch thickness?
> another question, "a couple of cans/bottles of fuel injector flush/cleaner", do you mean to add some fuel injector flush/cleaner additives? or something else?


yep, thickness of the pad (not including the backing plate)

yep, cans of injector cleaner additives

yep, NGKs should be able to be purchased at your local parts store

-corey


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## sinepi (Mar 30, 2004)

thanks again.
and do you know other local parts store except for Autozone. 



lawabidn said:


> yep, thickness of the pad (not including the backing plate)
> 
> yep, cans of injector cleaner additives
> 
> ...


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

There are some really crappy additive products out there. Keep their use to a minimum. I would use ZERO mass-market oil additives.

Just keep your first couple of oil & filter changes to short intervals ... about 2,000 miles. That will clean out your engine some. Want to go further? use one of the 15W40 Heavy Duty oils also rated for diesels. Their additive package is much stronger than typical passenger car motor oils and will clean your engine quickly.

Again, keep the interval on the short side and watch for your oil to turn dark quickly ... evidence of cleaning going on. 

For fuel adds, try Red Line SI-1 or Chevron Techron. I use no more than 2-3 bottles per year ... along with 3-4 bottles of isopropyl drygas because I live up north where moisture freezing in the fuel system is a problem.

Among mass market engine oils, Chevron Supreme and Pennzoil Pure Base are two of the best. Both use a Group II+ heavily refined base oil while others are still using Group I or Group II. Penz and Chevron also use the two best additive packages going (full of molybdenum and boron anti-wear).

Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle oil replaces some of their mineral base stock (10-15%) with a Group V synthetic ester for stability, cleaning and conditioning of older seals. Great stuff for only $2.00 - $2.25 per quart. 

No API - SL rated oil is bad. Just keep the drain interval modest ... no more than 4,000 miles without lab testing.


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## sinepi (Mar 30, 2004)

Thanks so much for such a detailed reply. They are so valuable and I will change to the Chevolon oil next time when I change oil and oil filter.

Thanks!



Bror Jace said:


> There are some really crappy additive products out there. Keep their use to a minimum. I would use ZERO mass-market oil additives.
> 
> Just keep your first couple of oil & filter changes to short intervals ... about 2,000 miles. That will clean out your engine some. Want to go further? use one of the 15W40 Heavy Duty oils also rated for diesels. Their additive package is much stronger than typical passenger car motor oils and will clean your engine quickly.
> 
> ...


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