# Dealer service?



## Rockford (Jan 28, 2005)

We're coming up to our 12,000km service interval and are going to go back to the dealer to have it done (like we did for the 6,000km service).

I wonder though, how many of you go to the dealer for service and how many of you have another mechanic (or are DIY'ers)?

I suspect the vast majority of you go back to a Nissan dealer. For those of you that have been using the dealer, how have you found them? I know they're all different but generally speaking, have you been happy with the service?

I think many people go to the dealer because they believe that they (the dealer, I mean) know the marque better than anyone, and ya, you pay more but it's worth it. I'm not sure that they really do a better job myself but I don't have a Nissan guy of my own so I'll be going to the dealer for now. If I find them to be ok I'll likely stick with them. 
There is a local Nissan performace shop that I may check out if I start to suspect I'm being taken advantage of though.


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## Avery Slickride (Jan 6, 2005)

For the tiny difference in cost (if there's any difference at all) I think it's worth getting the dealer to do the routine maintenance. That ensures that only approved parts and chemicals are used and eliminates much of the potential for warranty hassles. My dealer's been good, is conveniently located for me, and has a good shuttle service and an express oil-change lane. There's really no reason to go elsewhere.


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## Ryan_U (Apr 29, 2005)

I do all my maintenance. While an oil change is fairly inexpensive at the dealership, you are supposed to do the periodic maintenance at the dealership too. That ranges from 100 to about 275$ every 6000 km. All they do is check the fluids, check the brakes, rotate the tires and at the certain intervals, they change the air filter. I can do all that myself and more. I actually took my brakes apart at 18000 km and greased the slider pins and also the pads. That way I'm sure they wear out evenly. No dealer will do that. I also adjusted the emergency brake so that it only takes 6 clics to engage. The dealer doesn't always do that. I greased all the door hinges, door locks, trunk hinges, and hood hinges. The dealer doesn't usually do that. I cleaned out the air filter of loose dirt. I used synthetic oil. I greased the battery terminals. I also hand tighten my wheels with a torque wrench. No eaten-up wheel studs! I do use an oil filter from Nissan. Total cost is around 30$ (sythetic oil) but I'm sure the job was well done and only the best fluids/chemicals were used. It also allows me to keep an eye on wear and tear of other parts (tire thread, acc.strap ect..). It usually takes me about an hour to do so the way I see it, If I saved 70-200$ for an hours work... well that's a good hourly wage in my book. I also don't trust dealerships after being screwed over to many times... I'm not saying that Nissan would screw me but I'm not taking the chance. I actually like maintaining my car. It also helps that my father in law is a retired mechanic and that he has a garage with air powered tools.... YUMMMMM IMPACT GUN!!


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Ryan,
Totally agree with you there (if you have the time, the place & the know how)

In fact I just went last week for my 24000 km inspection (.....just as I did religiously for 18, 12 & 6 K) and I did trust them to do the inspection of the brakes but was unfortunately told that both rear sliding pins had seized and both rear brakes and discs would likely need replacing at my next visit since they wore out prematurely and are now down to only 20% (exactly what you will be avoiding)...

I kind of asked why I bothered going to the dealer inspection for the previous ones (18, 12 & 6 K) since I thought going regularly would have prevented this rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr I am so ticked off.

So, Ryan, how much do you charge for teaching proper brake inspection???


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## Ryan_U (Apr 29, 2005)

We could do a Montreal get-together and grease our pins.... that sounds kinky.  

Actually, The procedure is fairly easy. You remove the wheel. Un-tighten the bolts that hold the caliper. You then push the pads back (pushing the cylinder). You then remove the pads. You then clean and file the pads so that they can slide easily within their "tracks". You the add a tab of lithium grease to the side/ends of the pads. This is where the brake pads go into the rail/grooves inside the callipers. This will allow the pads to move freely inside the calibers rails. 

On the calipers, you check out the pins to make sure they have no rust or dirt. Clean if needed the caliper pins. You can oil them a little bit but that could also attract dirt so I use a synthetic graphite oil that are used on mountain bikes. It should lube the pins without attracting dirt. You then reassemble the whole thing. No need to bleed the brakes because you don't remove the brake lines. It should take about 10 minutes each wheel. While I'm there, I usually remove the rust from the edges of the disks and also adjust the emergency brake. 

To adjust the emergency brake travel, you need to remove a rubber gommet that is on the rears disk brakes. Take a flashlight and turn the disk until you see a gear wheel (It is hard to explain but it is a like a gear on a pin), You then give the gear a couple clicks (I don't remember the direction though). Try to turn the wheel/axle. If It still turns freely try a couple more clicks of the gear. If you do this 4 times and the axle still turns then your moving the gear in the wrong direction  . If you are turning it in the right direction, the emergency brake pads will move closer to the drums and at a certain point the wheel/axle won't move anymore. You then just reverse click a couple until the wheel/axle spins without friction. Repeat on the other side. Replace the rubber gommets. Voila! 

I hope this made some sense.

Ryan


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## ValBoo (May 19, 2003)

Sounds great! As soon as the weather cooperates we should do that! That probably means 3 months ...


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