# Key Fob Not Working Unless Ignition On



## sleepy floyd (Jul 30, 2018)

Hi, 

Both of my wireless entry key fobs stopped working on my 2001 Nissan Maxima. They were working earlier today, because I used one of them to reset the horn sound to go off when the door lock button is pressed. In between that time, and now, i attempted to change the overhead interior light. i know I shorted the light by accident when trying to replace the bulb, as I saw it arc/spark. I checked the fusebox and found and replaced the blown fuse which was labelled "Battery 10A - Room Lamp" in the fusebox. So, the fuse has been replaced, but the keyless entry fob still doesnt work unless the key is in the ignition and turned to ACC. Also note, that the power door lock buttons on the armrest do not work unless the key is in the ignition and turned to ACC. I can use the key to open the driver's side door manually, but it does not activate the central unlocking system, so the other doors remain LOCKED. The only way to unlock all the doors at the same time is to put the key in the ignition, turn it to ACC (or start the car) and then use the unlock buttons on the arm rest. 

I tried reprogramming the key fob, using the insert and withdrawal the key from the ignition ~10x method, but the car does blinkers never activate. 

Is there another fuse that may have blown when I shorted the overhead interior light?

I searched these forums and the internet in general, and found similar issues, but no solutions..

Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

George


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I'm wondering if you damaged the Smart Entrance control unit when you shorted the dome light? Perhaps try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and re-connecting the cable.


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## sleepy floyd (Jul 30, 2018)

smj999smj said:


> I'm wondering if you damaged the Smart Entrance control unit when you shorted the dome light? Perhaps try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and re-connecting the cable.


Thanks for the response.. Yeah, i've been going through the service manuals for the past couple of hours trying to make sense of the wiring diagrams.. its coming down to either the arcing/short cause another random fuse to blow thats affecting this, or that the Smart Entrance Control Unit (SECU) is glitching (either permanent or resettable). I'll try disconnecting the negative terminal tomorrow morning, and then start checking each fuse, one by one... up until 2 hrs ago, I had never heard of a SECU... I hope that there's another failure point protecting it, seems kinda crazy to have a short from replacing a light bulb to cause that much problem.. 

If it comes to replacement SECU, I found a used one on ebay for like $30.00, so not too bad. hopefully there's nothing that needs to be dealer programmed.

Either way, i'll post back if I find a solution or run into another dead end...

Thanks,

george


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## sleepy floyd (Jul 30, 2018)

ok... i'm an idiot.. i went back and rechecked the fuse box this morning.  it seems that when I changed the 10A Room Lamp fuse, i put it back in the wrong receptacle.  I put the fuse in the correct receptacle and everything is working again.  (In my defense the middle column of fuses is offset from the two outside rows, so the rows don't line up.)



all is good.. 



Thanks,



George


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