# Stuck Brake Drum '90 Sentra



## lanciat (Dec 8, 2007)

After successfully removing the rear brake drum from the left side of my '90 Sentra, I cannot get the right side brake drum off. I have tried loosening the shoe adjuster from the small access port in the drum backing plate, but the adjuster seems to be stuck as well.

My question is this: On the left side of the car, the shoe adjuster is shortened by rotating the wheel on the adjuster counter-clockwise. In other words, the screw on the male half of the adjuster is reverse threaded, so that the screw tightens into the female half of the adjuster (and the overall length of the adjuster is shortened) when the wheel on the male half of the adjuster is turned counter-clockwise. 

Is the same true with the adjuster on the right side of the car? Or, do I need to rotate the wheel on the adjuster clockwise (the traditional "righty tighty") in order to tighten the screw in the male half of the adjuster and shorten it? 

Thanks for any and all help. I'd like to exhaust my options with the adjuster before applying a puller to the drum (and possibly breaking it).


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## birdsflyingover (Dec 19, 2007)

the adjusters will have to be turned the same way on both sides.


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## bestb12injersey (Sep 11, 2007)

did you loosen the emergency brake? try that. it is where the hand brake is. loosen it all the way but dont take the nut out. that should solve you problem. dont forget after to tighten it with the wheel up and spin it till you have some resistance spinning the wheel


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## lanciat (Dec 8, 2007)

Thanks for the advice, guys. I haven't loosened the e-brake yet. I'll give that a try and report back.

Thanks again!


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

lanciat said:


> Thanks for the advice, guys. I haven't loosened the e-brake yet. I'll give that a try and report back.
> 
> Thanks again!


If it turns freely, and there is no dragging from the shoes that you can hear or feel, It is more likely that there is a big ridge worn on the edge of the drum, that the shoes are catching on. I had one that would not come loose, I ended up using a air chisel and breaking the drum apart. If loosening the adjuster on the E-brake does not help you can try using two pry-bars and try to force it off, Keeping in mind you will have to replace the hardware as well as the shoes.


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## lanciat (Dec 8, 2007)

birdsflyingover said:


> the adjusters will have to be turned the same way on both sides.


Well, yes and no. As mentioned above, the adjuster on the left rear wheel is reverse threaded, and must be turned counter-clockwise to tighten the adjuster screw and shorten the adjuster.

On the other hand, I've now discovered that the adjuster on the right rear wheel is traditionally threaded, and must be turned clockwise to tighten the adjuster screw and shorten the adjuster.

So, in absolute terms, the two adjusters are turned in exactly the opposite way from one another.

However, in relative terms, the two adjusters are turned the same way -- in each case, you are spinning the adjuster wheel away from the car (as apposed to toward the car's center) in order to shorten the adjuster.


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## lanciat (Dec 8, 2007)

The shoe adjuster on my right rear wheel drum was frozen solid (the result of a missing rubber dust cover on the backing plate, I suspect), and I would up having to open the backing plate with a cutting wheel and cutting through the adjuster in order to remove the stuck brake drum.

As as result, I'm now in the market for the drum hardware other than the drum, wheel cylinder and springs -- backing plate, adjuster, and rear shoe hardware. If anyone has these parts lying around in their stash, let me know -- it would save me some time in scouring my local junkyards. 

And on that note, my local yards always seem to have a number of B13s, but few B12s. Is the rear drum brake hardware on a B13 at all interchangeable with a B12?

Thanks a lot.


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## bestb12injersey (Sep 11, 2007)

take the rear and front brakes and suspension it would be a great up grade the front rotors are thicker and the rears are almost the same


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

If you need to replace the rear brake backing plate you will also need to replace the E-brake cable, because it is part of the backing plate. 
If you upgrade you brake system to the B13, the front bolts right on, but the rear disc's need some parts manufactured to allow you to mount the calipers.
See my car-domain for details http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2439981.


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## lanciat (Dec 8, 2007)

bob89sentra said:


> If you need to replace the rear brake backing plate you will also need to replace the E-brake cable, because it is part of the backing plate.


Actually, no. The e-brake cable is tapped into the housing on the brake backing plate, and can be tapped out with a hammer and punch. Did it today, with no damage to either the backing plate or the e-brake cable.


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

lanciat said:


> Actually, no. The e-brake cable is tapped into the housing on the brake backing plate, and can be tapped out with a hammer and punch. Did it today, with no damage to either the backing plate or the e-brake cable.


Hmm...
They have always been spot welded together from what I have seen. 
Either way if it worked for you then go with it


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