# 1997 4x4 xe backfire follewed by engine dying hard.



## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

Hello, This is my first post on any forum. I've been reading this one for a while and I am very desperately trying to find a solution.

I have a 97 Nissan pickup 4x4 XE 5 speed with 200,000+ miles on it.

Current problem: The truck is misfiring resulting in it stalling. This is typically happening early into 4rth gear.

Several months back the Engine control fuse blew out. Replacing it just with the fuse blowing again. This has resulted in several prom codes related to engine control. Ive been trying to locate a short or a failed component but I haven't so far. Also the brake and abs light are on. I have read that these last two lights can be caused from a number of electrical problems.

Two weeks ago I was driving home from work and there was an actual explosion under the truck. the muffler detonated. Looked like it had been hit with an ax. The exhaust has always been loud and i knew there was a leak but i had no idea that could happen. I started the truck up a few more times and tried to limp it home but Id only get a little way before id get a couple more bangs and the truck would die. finally i couldn't start it and had it towed home. 

Just finished today: I have replaced the entire exhaust myself from the the header back. I torqued every bolt to the tech manuals specifications and did my best to make sure everything has been done right. I figure taking it to a movie would be a good test drive. It made it out drove better than I have ever seen it. but...

On the way back it backfired and stalled again. I started it and took it easy the rest of the way home. A recommendation i received, is to replace the distributor and rotor. I plan on doing that tomorrow.

I read that the crank and cam sensor could also cause a backfire like this.

I hope I did not write too much, but if anybody has any suggestions on the backfire and likely culprits for the electrical short I am experiencing I would appreciate it. Thank You.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

You should pull the codes to see why the engine is not working right. The ECU will cause the engine to create symptoms when engine readings are out of spec.

Your truck is ODBII, so you can have a place like Auto Zone pull them for free.

Make sure they reset the codes so that they do not show up the next time you check.

The Cam Position Sensor is integrated into the distributor. So, if it goes out, then you would need a new one.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

timing out?? do you know when/if the chain etc has been changed? how about last time plugs, cap/rotor was changed? (these motors run better with oem ignition parts) any wiring damaged by the exhaust system malfunction?? just some thoughts


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## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

I've owned the truck for one year. The timing chain was replaced a few months before i purchased it. When I replaced the oil pan gasket about 6 months ago I found pieces of the plastic chain guide in it so I have to assume they at least replaced the guide. I just replaced the crank sensor. And installed the distributor. It started back up, but I have never done a distributor before and didn't know that it had to be set in a certain position. It ran but it was weak. I guess it was luck or them idiot proofing the part that i didn't cause something real bad. I'm looking at the proper installation now. From what I'm reading. Engine at top dead center and the distributor rotor is to face #1. I just replaced the spark plugs when I installed the exhaust. 

There is not to many wires around the exhaust. Pretty much just the o2 sensor wires and the distributor/cam sensor wires. I have inspected these and found nothing to suspect. Plus the o2 sensors are new also installed with the exhaust.

I think once I have the distributor corrected. It will be back to where it was before I blew up the exhaust. I'm researching how to use a probe to find the short that is blowing my engine control fuse. If anybody has instructions, recommendations, or tips on what and how to use these in addition to everything else I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you for your post!!!


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## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

To: JP2CODE

Sorry I tried writing a response to your post on my cell phone and it didn't go through.

I have pulled the codes. basically the entire engine control circuit lights up. It totaled 14 prom codes. (IE.. both upstream and down stream o2 sensors, swirl control valve, egr valve and so on to include the everything adjacent to these units on the wiring diagram.)

The codes are basically telling me that I have a short. 

I tried unplugging a few components that i felt were likely and replacing fuses but came up with nothing. The fuses continue to blow. I did this a few time but, I need a better approach. I think I might end up causing more damage if I do it anymore if I haven't already.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Do you have the Service Manual? I can't post the actual link on this forum, but I can post a picture:










There is a section called *el* in that 1997 folder that will show you how the wiring routes from the fuse box - starting around *EL-6*.

Chasing a bad connection is going to be a slow process.

Pay attention to aftermarket install stuff (radio, amp, alarm, fog lights, trailer lights). Often, those are installed as quickly as possible, and the connections go out after 10 or 20 years.


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## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

Yes, I have been using it. Its saved to my favorites. I can't find directions for distributor installation in it anywhere. I will look into more thoroughly.

The only aftermarket part I have is an oil pressure gauge that is installed under the center console. I do see an electric wire coming from behind. If they are using the engine control circuit to draw power it could be my issue. I think the fitting to it under the oil filter leaks any way. Ill pull the dash and see if I can follow the wire after I get the distributor sorted out. The radio is aftermarket too, but its not on the circuit.


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## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

Update on where I am at:

I just set my ignition timing for the distributor. I think it has been off for a while. I just bought the light sensor and watched a ton of videos on how to adjust the distributor. The manual had me start the truck rev it to 3000 2-3 times. Turn off key, disconnect tps and loosen distributor bolts. then adjust the distributor while it was idling. The manufacturer setting is 10 +/-2. I tried 10 test dove it and it didn't seem right. I put it up to 14. Runs a lot better but it seems a little weak on the low end. The backfiring seems to have stopped happening now. I think I'm going to set it at 12 and see if I get any of my low end back. Will 2* make a significant difference?

So far I have replaced the exhaust, upstream and downstream o2 sensors, the crank sensor (which was bent somehow), the distributor/cam sensor, adjusted the ignition timing, and replaced the spark plugs. 

I'm pretty comfortable driving it now. But, I'm still trying to locate this engine control short.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Deepsea said:


> I've owned the truck for one year. The timing chain was replaced a few months before i purchased it. When I replaced the oil pan gasket about 6 months ago I found pieces of the plastic chain guide in it so I have to assume they at least replaced the guide. I just replaced the crank sensor. And installed the distributor. It started back up, but I have never done a distributor before and didn't know that it had to be set in a certain position. It ran but it was weak. I guess it was luck or them idiot proofing the part that i didn't cause something real bad. I'm looking at the proper installation now. From what I'm reading. Engine at top dead center and the distributor rotor is to face #1. I just replaced the spark plugs when I installed the exhaust.


The backfiring situation that's occurring is most likely due to improper ignition timing. Here's a description on setting up the distributor; I'm assuming the engine is a KA24E:

Remove the distributor and the oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO.
The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45 o'clock" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.

Now insert the distributor into the block. Wherever the rotor is pointing, that is the #1 plug wire location. You may have to rearrange the plug wires on the distributor cap. The KA motor firing order is: 1-3-4-2. This is at the distributor cap in a counter clockwise direction. 

The ignition timing spec is: 10 degrees BTDC. First disconnect the TPS harness connector, then set the timing, then reconnect the TPS harness connector.


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## Deepsea (Jul 2, 2015)

To rogoman:

I set the timing to ten and test drove it. It didnt run well. I bumped it to 14 and it runs i think satisfactory. It is a whole lot better than when it was at ten. When I first started the timing was over 20 degrees. 

Im using a digital light gun I purchased from the autoparts store.

before I started any of this I set the engine to top dead center and then took the distributor cap off to get an idea of how far off i was. When I took off the cap the rotor was pointing at #4. So i spun the pulley another 360 degrees and it was pointing at #1. I figured since it was in and running I should only have to adjust the ignition timing which is what I did. It is running actually pretty decent now. hasnt backfired


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Yes, 20 degrees BTDC for that engine is too high. I can understand why it was backfiring on you.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

I've got the V6, so I don't know, but it sounds to me like your timing chain has stretched.

How long has it been since you did the timing chain and tensioner?


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