# brakes squeeling, need to lube caliper tracks?



## Guest (Jun 7, 2003)

I have a '97 Nissan Sentra that I've had for about 4 months. Once I've been driving for a while, and only once i've been driving for a while, when I brake with a certain ammount of force I get a really good squeel. The wierd part is that when I start to accellerate again they still squeel. It's a squeel that sounds like it would be made from metal on metal with no lubrication. I took it into a shop and they took apart my front brakes and they told me that I have heat cracks in my pads. They said that whoever put on the last set of pads (which are still at least 75%) they did a cheap job and didn't lube up the caliper tracks that the calipers slide back and forth on. So they think that when I brake, they calipers don't completly open up and stay rubbing against the rotor, heating it up to not normal temps, causing the heat cracks. They wanted to charge me $250 to replace the pads and lube it up. I want to just do it myself, it's just disc brakes, very easy. 

The part I want to know is how do I lube up the caliper tracks so this doesn't happen again? I've never done that part before when I've done a brake job.


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Some type of hi-temperature never-sieze works well. I've used it without any problems (including two years of Solo I and Solo II racing), ~however~, I know that Toyota (for sure) sells a very good caliper lube just for that purpose, and it can withstand heat much better than never-sieze.

You will definately need to replace the pads. Don't use jobber pads! Also check that the caliper pistons move freely. If you can't push them in without a c-clamp, they may be too tight (in which case, you'l need new calipers), but being a 97 I'd doubt it's the pistons.

Greg


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2003)

jobber pads?


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Jobber = Pep Boys, UAP NAPA, WalMart, etc.

Buy OEM: Nissan. Go straight to the dealer for items like brakes, clutches, bearings, thermostats, etc. They are indeed more expensive, but the quality is almost ALWAYS much better. From all my experiences (ASE Master Technician, high school shop teacher, avid gear head) jobber parts usually suck.

Greg


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