# ur opinion on this 240im buyin...



## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

its on auction from my parkin company. customer just left the car there and didn't come back. been there for 3 YEARS now. its a 1993 240sx base( but has cd player?), color is dark green(did it come in a green??? or am i seeing things) 5 speed, 118k miles going for $1300.

since its an auction piece and i'm pretty sure no ones gonna be there to bid, how much do u think they will let me have it for? i'm thinkin $800. theres no key for the car since customer has then but they will make the key for me when i buy. and since theres no key i can't test drive, look at engine compartment or even open the door or hatch to check for rust. and did i mention two flat tires? lol its also kinda banged up. and the interior is kinda nasty.

seems like its not worth it but what u guys think? i'm currently driving a 00 civic hatch thanks for all ur opinions


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

..only if u can get it UNDER 1300..


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## Mr.Kouki (Aug 13, 2003)

I'd say go for it,when i got my 240 with 87,xxx on it i paid $2,400 and it runs fine...but then again, I take good care of my car and properly maintain it. as long as the car itself runs fine, then I think you should take it, especially if you can cut it at 800$...interiors are replacable and so are tires...even if you were start spending money to restore it, overall i think imo that you would be very happy...just make sure it runs...


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## drift240sxdragqueen (Oct 23, 2002)

i'd have a test drive though... u won't kno how it runs unless u get a test drive so this is an iffy.


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## 93blackSER (Feb 1, 2003)

i'd say that on a 93 with 118k, it should run fairly well. and yeah, i would go for it. i'd try to get it as low as i could, but that's only because i'm cheap


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## drift240sxdragqueen (Oct 23, 2002)

aren't we all cheap? i don't think any of us here have yet spent big bucks besides nx2000 but he had to get a loan, i guess this is a poor 240sx forums  

my 90 has about 117k miles ooo it runs good


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## nx2000 (Jan 24, 2003)

depends on how cheap you get it. I got my 240 for 1100. The day I picked up, I immediately drove it 1000 miles to Texas and a wekk and a half later dove it 1700 from texas to ND. NO test drive since I got such a good deal. I wouldnt recommend this and I dont know if I would do it again if I had the opprotunity. If it is local and you can get it cheaply...WHY NOT???


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## 93blackSER (Feb 1, 2003)

geez...tell me where you're at and i'll buy the damn thing! i could come up with a grand probably. let me know where you're at so i can look into it.


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

see thats the big concern i have I CANT TEST DRIVE IT OR SEE IF IT EVEN RUNS!!! so thats y im goin to ask for 500 for it and then probably work up til 800. im pretty sure its ok with those miles and year and remember the person who left it there had to drive it there in the first place.

gonna have about 3g's to put into it if i buy it "what should i get first?" i kno i kno i've seen that question asked all the time on the honda boards and laugh cause its so easy to answer but 240's are new to me. these are my criterias 
1-stay na
2-drift/daily driver
3-eventually exterior mods

i'm thinkin 1g for tein ha, 1g for lightweight wheels/tires, 500 for two racin seats, 250 for maintainance items, what should i do wit the other 250 or am i goin about this all wrong?? thanks again 

93blackSER - i'm in the city u too far and i can't afford peeps biddin against me


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## 93blackSER (Feb 1, 2003)

i'd say with 2g's extra that if you plan to stay NA, i'd get an intake, header, and exhaust. followed by any suspension mod you can afford if you plan to drift. if you really plan to drift, then keep the stock wheels as you wont be so disappointed to scrape them up and tires are cheaper for them.


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

i knooooo but i want that low profile mad camber look so baaaad lol anyway thanks for knockin some sense into me hehe i think i'mma stick wit them stock rims and put money elsewhere


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## thecollector (Jul 11, 2003)

Under $1300 is a decent price. Heck just over 6 years ago I paid $5000 for mine with 68,000mi and it was in pristine condition. As for the green, I remember back in 1989 I test drove a 240 that was a pearl green with the hologram speedometer on the windshield. Dont see those around anymore.

Anyway GL if you get it. Do basic mods first if you do. ECU, intake, and exhaust would be the first choices.

thecollector
1993 240sx
sr20det s13
http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=378316&page=1


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

see thats the thing i dont' wanna do basic mods that - lets face don't really do anything major - 

i want LSD, coilovers and drifting skillz of course 

i'm sick and tired of buy dumb crap that don't do SHIT!!! i kno they help out in the long run but right now not really like intake 100-300 down the drain to hear the sound while addin 3 hp. better spent on tires in my opinion

thanks for the knowledge guys keep 'em coming what else besides those i listed for major impact in driving expeirence?


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

sorry guys for being so blunt lil woozy after a 40 of OE *big grin*


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

racin-type said:


> *
> thanks for the knowledge guys keep 'em coming what else besides those i listed for major impact in driving expeirence? *


Big brakes
Proper reclinable bucket seat
Strut braces, sway bars and new bushes - makes the car tight
at least 2000lbs clutch


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

OOooo forgot bout the clutch -very important. what u guys recommend?

got the seats down already

big brakes? i don't think i'mma go that route ... or not just yet. i think some grippy pads and brembo blanks will be good enuff and maybe brake line if they're old which they probably are. This is my thinkin .."do we REALLY need brakes in drifting situations? maybe just to transfer some weight. later on is when u need it, when ur pretty good and doin 80mph into a turn, then i think thats when u will use it to slow down quickly.

i''m thinkin about forgoin all that bs wit the strut braces and tie bars for a full cage that is streetable. cant decide on sway bars. probably later since the coilovers by itself is gonna make the car handle like a champ.

bushings - any company makes a full set for out rides? all suspension bushings and maybe some others but suspension is most important


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

racin-type said:


> big brakes? i don't think i'mma go that route ... or not just yet. i think some grippy pads and brembo blanks will be good enuff and maybe brake line if they're old which they probably are. This is my thinkin .."do we REALLY need brakes in drifting situations? maybe just to transfer some weight. later on is when u need it, when ur pretty good and doin 80mph into a turn, then i think thats when u will use it to slow down quickly.


If you plan to mod your car so it have enough power to actually drift then you will need better brakes than the piss-weak NA items. At least source DET brakes (even they are shit)



> i''m thinkin about forgoin all that bs wit the strut braces and tie bars for a full cage that is streetable. cant decide on sway bars. probably later since the coilovers by itself is gonna make the car handle like a champ.


Coilovers, strut braces and swaybars all do different things. Get a strut brace. They are not expensive and they work. You can forgo the rear brace if you have a cage. Coilovers are not going to help you recover from a lateral slide, if anything they make it worse. 



> bushings - any company makes a full set for out rides? all suspension bushings and maybe some others but suspension is most important


whiteline do a full bushing kit for the S13
http://www.whiteline.com.au/

You will also need camber tops (if your coilovers dont have them) and adjustable castor rods. You may need to dial in some rear camber to help the back tyres let go.


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## racin-type (Aug 13, 2003)

i didn't think you needed too much power to drift - probably not gonna get the brakes since i'm still an amatuer.

i kno what coilovers, sway bars and strut bars do. remember i want parts that have a major impact like a cage. a cage i think would be way better than all those other bits of structural pieces that u can get for the car. not sayin they don't do anything just that a cage will do more. swaybars like i said can't decide maybe later will get then to fine tune the car.

"You may need to dial in some rear camber to help the back tyres let go." 
i'm thinkin your meaning negative camber and how come that is so? if you "dial" in some negative camber wouldn't that make it harder to let the tires go? or is it to get less contact patch of the tires? i kno why the pros do it, to have better control in mid drift(correct me if i'm wrong) but should an amatuer tune it that way also?


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

yeah, less contact with the road. Youll go through tyres though


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