# Installation of new clutch and flywheel on 98 200sx se 1.6



## hydrocarbonman (Mar 16, 2015)

Does anybody know if there is any significance to the Dimple on the Flywheel ( Dimple In Flywheel Photo by xmjm924x | Photobucket ) end of the crankshaft, such as lining up the dimple with the drilled holes on the back of the Flywheel (I take it those drilled holes are for balance) ( Balance Holes To Line Up With Dimple? Photo by xmjm924x | Photobucket ) . Secondly, does the protruding part of the friction plate protrude into the flywheel space, ( Friction Plate Protruding Toward Flywheel Photo by xmjm924x | Photobucket ), or toward the pressure plate? ( Friction Plate Protuding Toward Pressure Plate Photo by xmjm924x | Photobucket ) . I thought I remember that it faced the pressure plate on disassembly, but thought that with the protruding part facing the pressure plate it could possibly interfere with the pressure plate fingers depending on how far the throw-out bearing advances. All answers would be appreciated. By the way, there was no Pilot Bushing in the crankshaft even though the Sachs clutch kit came with one and after doing research on here or another Nissan forum sight the GA 1.6 doesn’t use one and the input shaft is all spline with no smooth machined end to go inside a Pilot Bearing or Bushing. (http://s817.photobucket.com/user/xmjm924x/media/f9cafa2b-1a96-4273-9964-b801ce33ae6d.jpg.html?o=4 )


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Don't worry about the "dimple." It has nothing to do with flywheel and/or clutch alignment.

The "protruding part of the friction plate," as you call it, faces the clutch pressure plate.

The clutch kit covers several applications, some of which use a pilot bushing, but not for you particular transmission.

I noticed there seems to be some oil at your rear main seal. Hard to tell if it's leaking or not, but if it is, now would be the time to replace it. Also, if you drained the gear oil out of the transmission, make sure you use GL-4 gear oil, or a GL-5 that specifically states that it is "safe for yellow metals." Regular GL-5 is not good on the brass parts, like the synchos, in most Asian transmissions, including Nissan.


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## hydrocarbonman (Mar 16, 2015)

Wow smj999smj. You been really helping me out here. Thanks alot! One last question to you? I have always heard that you are supposed to change the flywheel bolts every time you remove them because as one person put it, they are torque to yield. However that does not make much sense to me because once you have yielded the bold they have plastically deformed and thus the bold would not have as much clamping force, although maybe there is some other phenomena that may make them stay locked in place once yielded (yield is defined for low carbon steel as strain greater than 2%). I have used and reused the same flywheel bolts in American and British cars some times over and over again and have never had a problem. However, maybe their specs were not torque to yield. New flywheel bolts would be another 40 dollars for a car that I just spent $400 in parts on and the car that will still be worth only 5 or 6 hundred dollars.
Use the same bolts and torque to the lowest part of the range with the strongest holding Loctite? What is your advice. I am very appreciative of your help! Thanks! Oh ya, I forgot to address the gl-4 gear oil. Very observatory of you! I replaced both the rear main and the pan gasket. I originally bought a cheap gl-5 and than I read that you really can't find gl-4 anymore and so you should use GL-5 that also specifies GL-4 also in its applications, so I paid an extra 20 dollars for Valvoline GL-4/GL-5 in its description. Hope that does the job. I am only hoping to get another say 30 k hard driving miles out of it for my son who is a pizza delivery guy until we can afford to get him a better and safer car. Thanks so much


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I never heard that Nissan flywheel bolts are torque to yield (some cylinder head bolts, yes, but not flywheel bolts). I've always just gunned them on with a 1/2" air impact gun and never had any issues. 
All GL-5 gear oils say they are safe for GL-4 applications...but, not all GL-5 oils are safe for use with "yellow metals"; what I said was you can use a GL-5 that states it is "safe for use with yellow metals." GL-4 oil is still available if you look hard enough. Sta-lube still makes GL-4 and it is available at Advance Auto Parts, among other places, and is reasonably priced:

Buy Sta-Lube API/GL-4 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil, SAE 85W90, 1 gal SL24239 at Advance Auto Parts

A lot more expensive, Redline also has GL-4:

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Gear Oil for Manual Transmissions - MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil

Royal Purple also has an option:

Max Gear Synthetic Gear Oil for Max Protection | Royal Purple


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