# Synthetic Oil versus Regular



## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

Has anyone seen any difference using synthetic oil for their engines? In terms of fuel efficiency, engine noise, responsiveness, etc.

What about synthetic transmission oil? Would it be worth it? I heard you need to switch to synthetic before 48000km if one was going to change over to it.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

Use the 'search' feature of this forum.

Search for terms like "synthetic," "oil" and/or the various brand names (capitalized and spelled correctly).

There's been lots of diuscussion already on this common topic.

If you have an additional question, bring it up in one of those extensive threads.


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## ViperZ (Feb 9, 2005)

When I switched our 1990 Honda Accord EXR over from dino to Mobile 1, even my wife noticed a difference. She asked what I had done to the car for it felt to have more power. I thought I had noticed a subtle change, however it must have been more dramatic than I thought for her to have noticed.  

I don't think there is a bad time to switch over to Synthetic, its just that the higher mileage engines may tend to leak the oil though the seals (no biggie)due to the lower consistence of the synthetic. I ran Synthetic in the Honda right up to the day I sold it (last week) @ 250,000 kms.


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## manuelga (Dec 14, 2003)

I rather preffer a syntetic thing flowing inside my engine than a Dinosaur-soup :fluffy: 

VipZ... I notice the change at my Renault's Scenic, even the ECU turn crazy for the first 50kms, because the loss of resistence, now it runs like crazy, It's also a modern engine with few kms on it so, no leak.

I'm also a a syntetic oil fan (worth the value).


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## Oreo (Nov 5, 2004)

I have read the discussions in the other forums, but I wanted to know peoples view with their Xtrail. Was also curious if any xtrail owners are using synthetic in their transmissions.

Greg



Bror Jace said:


> Use the 'search' feature of this forum.
> 
> Search for terms like "synthetic," "oil" and/or the various brand names (capitalized and spelled correctly).
> 
> ...


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## manuelga (Dec 14, 2003)

sorry, no synthetic at my XTy's tranny, it's not even a year old with very few kms on it, 'cause it's not my daily car & I live in a really small place.


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## mike dockal (Dec 20, 2004)

I don't think it's worth the price. I don't think you can tell much difference in engine wear before it turns over 200K and by then the synthetic cost you over thousand dollars extra.


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## XTrail1 (Feb 24, 2005)

I switched mine to syn at 6k, noticed the difference in performance, fuel economy and the sound of the engine, definitely smoother. I use Mobil 1 and my dealer now carries it.


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## ViperZ (Feb 9, 2005)

Oreo said:


> I have read the discussions in the other forums, but I wanted to know peoples view with their Xtrail. Was also curious if any xtrail owners are using synthetic in their transmissions.
> 
> Greg


I have Synthetic Oil in my BMW's Motor, Transmission and Rear Diff. I can tell you the cahnge was very much worth it.

When my BMW was new, I noticed the manual transmission felt very notchy and sometimes had a slight grind when shifting from 1st to 2nd as the weather got colder (Nov). A call to BMW indicated that what most owners do is swap oil types in the trans, during the winter, and then revert back in the summer. I thought this was crazy so I used Amsoil Synthetic Auto transmission fluid in the gear box, it is totally smooth with no swap required during the seasons. It took a few trial and errors as not all Synthetics were equal in the gear box. I used a Castrol Synthetic manual trans lube at first and it was actually worse than the Dino Auto Trans fluid that came out. The Amsoil and Mobil 1 worked the best.

Synthetic does not break down as rapidly as Dino over milage, or heat, thus you can really extend your oil changes with out worry if so required. Synthetic also has a more consistent viscosity over the entire range of hot and cold temperatures, thus it provides smoother starts in the winter cold, and can prevent higher engine temps in the summer. This can prolong enegine life on both sides be cause Synthetic flows more readily at cold temps, thus getting oil to the engine faster.

In the end I feel it does not matter what you use, the best protection is to change your oil often. I like the added benifets of Synthetic and have run it in my BMW from day 1 of ownership. I will also swap the X-Trail over to Mobil 1 when the first change is due.

Amsoil has this Micro filter system you can install on your car that micro filters the oil (~2um) so all you do is change filters a few times a year, yet the Synthetic oil remains in for a year or more. My one friend has this on his Van and truck and swears by it. He has had the oil analyzed after prolonged use and it's still good after a year or more, with very little break down in the oil and a low metal particulate count. You could never do that with Dino juice :thumbdwn: 


Manuelga, I believe, for I have experienced it too


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

If you car calls for an ATF for use in its _manual_ transmission, I don't believe you can do any better than Specialty Formulations 100% synthetic MTF Glide:

http://www.specialtyformulations.com/index_files/Page2256.htm

It's formulated to be the same thickness (viscosity) as ATF as well as the oil's coefficient of friction. Much improved over an ATF will be its additive package.

It's always best to use an oil specifically formulated to lubricate manual transmissions instead of an ATF which is very low in anti-wear barrier additives. 

ATFs will work, but they aren't optimal for syncromesh transmissions. They are designed for autmotic transmissions ... which are an entirely different breed of beast.

I use Specialty Formulations MTL-P (thicker than MTF Glide) in my SpecV's 6-speed. They have a total of 4 synchromesh fluids in varying viscosities which cover nearly all applications.


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## SCHESBH (May 25, 2004)

*Synthetic*

On my Altima (killed by my wife in an accident...LOL she would kill me if she read that).. I had Castol Syntek for all of it's 450,000k on the engine.. and not one problem.

Even before I took ownership of the X-Trail I had them switch to Mobil 1 (Nissan recommended) and compared to my Boss who also has an X-Trail.. it is quieter and more responsive.

On another side note... living in Quebec.. we purchased (had built) our new home and after living through an ice storm... I said that I would never again live with out a generator. So my house was wired for it and I have a Honda Generator outside.. thankfully never to use it except once a week to start it and keep it running.

I have had it for two years... no problems and called Honda to inquire about Synthetic in this instead of the regular oil.. of course their line was no..without any explanation.

I did it anyways... replacing it with Syntec. I can tell you that two days ago I started it up and had it running for an hour... the noise level was much lower and it was running cooler.. their was less heat generated...so what did I do.. I switched all my gas tools to Synthetic... and I am glad that I did.

Stephen


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## ViperZ (Feb 9, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> If you car calls for an ATF for use in its _manual_ transmission, I don't believe you can do any better than Specialty Formulations 100% synthetic MTF Glide:
> 
> http://www.specialtyformulations.com/index_files/Page2256.htm
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link, BMW specifically calls for various ATF fluids depending on the color of the tag affixed to the bell housing. Mine is a Green, which calls for Auto Transmission fluid. The Amsoil ATF I have in it works superbly from -40C to +40C, shifting is always smooth.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*SCHESBH*, All my gas power equipment is either used in moderate-to-warm weather only ... or in a heated area when i have to start it. i use one of the many good 15W-40 oils on the market. Excellent in many respects.

But if I stored any of my equipment out in the cold, I'd use Mobil 1 0W-40 or Shella Rotella synthetic 5W-40. 

*ViperZ*: _"BMW specifically calls for various ATF fluids depending on the color of the tag affixed to the bell housing."_

What they are looking for is (1) the thin viscosity of an ATF ... and possibly (2) an ATF's friction modifier package. Below is a listing of some of the thinner fluids used and their viscosity in cSt (centistrokes). 


Red Line Oil MTL *10.5-11.5*
Red Line High-Temp ATF *10.0*
Specialty Formulations Synchroglide *9.5*
Pennzoil Syncromesh *9.08*
GM Syncromesh *9.08*
Torco MTF *8.35*
Specialty Formulations MTL Glide *7.5*
Royal Purple Synchromax *7.5*
Red Line D4 ATF *7.5*
Amsoil ATF *7.2*
OEM BMW ATF *5 - 6*

For a comparison, 75W-90 gear oils are about a 15-16 cSt. 

What _no_ ATF has is a potent barrier anti-wear additive package (ZDDP, moly, zinc, calcium, etc ...). That's just the nature of _any_ fluid made specifically for automatic transmissions.

So, even the best ATF will only have 2 out of the 3 things you want in a top manual transmission lubricant. That's what makes Specialty Formulations MTL Glide probably the best choice among the bunch of thinner syncromesh fluids. In the 7.5 cSt range, my second choice would probably be Royal Purple Synchromax. I'm not a fan of the brand but I'd bet it has barrier wear additives better than any ATF ... even Amsoil.


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## ViperZ (Feb 9, 2005)

Thanks for those thoughts. I've been very happy with the Amsoil, as it has worked well over the 130k kms I have placed on the car.


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## WildBoar (Jul 16, 2005)

Oreo said:


> Has anyone seen any difference using synthetic oil for their engines? In terms of fuel efficiency, engine noise, responsiveness, etc.
> 
> What about synthetic transmission oil? Would it be worth it? I heard you need to switch to synthetic before 48000km if one was going to change over to it.


I switched to Mobil 1. I didn't notice an increase in milage right away. After 1000 miles there is definitely a difference. I used to get about 285 miles per tank now I get 340. I filled a 5 gallon tank and drove till I ran out before I changed it. I did it 2x. (probably not the best thing to do) 

After I switched I did it right away and saw no difference. Did it again at 1000 and it made a difference. I still see the difference. 


You can switch to synthetic anytime you want. Most of what you hear about synthetics are myths. Such as waiting to break in engine before using, leaking engines, cant use it past this time and so on. Change it anytime you want. 

Had it tested at 9k and its still good. I changed it anyway but technically the oil was still good to go.


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

I switched our X-Trail to Mobil1 at 6K - its first oil change. We were getting 10L/100km. Now, we're getting about 9.5L/100km. Nothing like the difference between 285 and 340 miles. That can't be all that accurate anyway, since it's hard to tell exactly how much is left in the tank.

The 5% increase in efficiency could be due to a number of factors, including a furhter broken-in engine, temperature, humidiy, driving conditions, etc., but we have experienced a slight improvement in fuel economy.

Performance improvement? Man, I can't see it, but then, I didn't buy an X-Trail to push the performance envelope.

But I'll keep using Mobil1 for the new X. It gets parked overnight in ski country, and I feel better, starting it with synthetic at -30C. We plan to keep this one for a long time.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_" ... the difference between 285 and 340 miles. That can't be all that accurate anyway, since it's hard to tell exactly how much is left in the tank."_

Exactly, if you are trying to measure your mileage this way, you're kidding yourself. That's not _nearly_ accurate enough to draw any conclusions.

You need to fill up your tank, write down the mileage or set the trip counter to zero. Drive until you need to stop again for fuel. Note the gallons it took to refill the tank (usually on the receipt).

Divide miles by gallons. This is your average fuel economy for that past tankful.

Put together at least 3-4 tankfulls in a row to get an idea as to how your vehicle is performing. Some vehicles (My SpecV) fluctuate greatly between tankfuls.

THEN make a switch (different brands, weights or 'types' of oil) and see if you notice a real difference. Don't change anything else (like tire pressures) as they have a great deal to due with fuel efficiency.

I record my mileage numbers/data on MS Excel. Takes about 15-30 seconds to enter the data once every other week or so. This is great to show the differences as the vehicle ages, goes through the seasons, etc ...


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## WildBoar (Jul 16, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> _" ... the difference between 285 and 340 miles. That can't be all that accurate anyway, since it's hard to tell exactly how much is left in the tank."_
> 
> Exactly, if you are trying to measure your mileage this way, you're kidding yourself. That's not _nearly_ accurate enough to draw any conclusions.
> 
> ...



I dont think I am kidding myself or you guys but I guess you think I am. I know exactly how much gas was left after each tank,,, NONE. I am pretty sure I mentioned that I did it this way but I guess no one read that part. All I can say is. Before change. I drove it a few times until EMPTY I even kept a gas can in the back. Milage was within 285 miles. After oil change didnt make difference right away, much later it was an improvement. Tire pressure is checked weekly.

What else ccould I have done? Same exact driving conditions every time I did it. From a complete fill to empty and refil with same exact amount of gas over and over again. Drive til out, use 5 gallon can to get me going again. Do it again a week or so later etc.

If you dont believe the increase I got, I dont know what to say. If you have a suggestion as to what I did wrong, please enlighten me so I can get a more accurate reading without spending hundreds or even thousands on measuring equipment.


The Spreadsheet is a great idea. I hope I can find the paper I kept track of this on. If not I will start now. An can use excell ok but dont know crap about setting it up. Do you have a format or something you may share?


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## goofy (May 12, 2004)

Oreo said:


> Has anyone seen any difference using synthetic oil for their engines? In terms of fuel efficiency, engine noise, responsiveness, etc.
> 
> What about synthetic transmission oil? Would it be worth it? I heard you need to switch to synthetic before 48000km if one was going to change over to it.



I have been using synthetic from the second oil change. I use MOBIL 1
and the factory oil filter. I have found better gas milege , more horsepower
and a quiter engine. I would definitly recommend it even if you were
going to change the oil at 8000 clicks. 

I have been doing the oil changes every 12000. I was thinking of only doing the oil filter changes at 12000 and changing the oil every 24000.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

_"I have been doing the oil changes every 12,000. I was thinking of only doing the oil filter changes at 12,000 and changing the oil every 24,000."_

Think you'll save money doing this? How much ... $20-30 per year? That's foolish economy ... like the current F1 rules mandating 1 set of tires for racing and qualifying. 

Seems a foolish gamble to me. I wouldn't go over 8,000 miles on an oil and filter without testing along the way ... even using Mobil 1's newest "15,000 mile" oil. I can't imagine changing my oil at least twice each year ... no matter what a pain it is.

*WildBoar*, you mean you run your car until it quits? 

An Excel spreadsheet is a LOT easier. 

Simply put your miles travelled in column A. On the same row, put your gallons consumed in column B. In column C, you'll write a formula:

=A1/B1

This will automtically divide the miles by gallons and show an answer. I suggest you format the cel to round to the nearest tenth. Numbers out to 4-5+ decimals suggest a precision you're not getting with this method of measuring. 

Repeat this using the next rows for each tankful of gas.


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## goofy (May 12, 2004)

Bror Jace said:


> _"I have been doing the oil changes every 12,000. I was thinking of only doing the oil filter changes at 12,000 and changing the oil every 24,000."_
> 
> Think you'll save money doing this? How much ... $20-30 per year? That's foolish economy ... like the current F1 rules mandating 1 set of tires for racing and qualifying.
> 
> ...



That's km not miles so it's not by any means a "foolish gamble". There are
many test results online of doing oil changes with synthetics at much higher
milege like 40,000 km with oil filter changes and top-ups.


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## Zac (Mar 10, 2004)

as far as the qr25de is concerned which is the xtrail engine, they will get slightly better gas mileage on better oil. i no longer say synthetic because i have been running chevron supreme and get better gas mileage than when i ran amsoil. mind you, that chevron is exceptionally good oil (actually some UOAs i have read put many synthetics to shame) and dirt cheap so i change it every 2500 miles if the car is being used hard.


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## WildBoar (Jul 16, 2005)

Bror Jace said:


> *WildBoar*, you mean you run your car until it quits?
> 
> An Excel spreadsheet is a LOT easier.
> 
> ...


Yeah it was a gamble. 

Thanks for the info on the spreadsheet wil start it for all my vehicles. My Pathfinder I have faith in. My Chrysler Town and Country is like a geriatric, I have to be extra careful with it. Its a great van but need extra attention.


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## SCHESBH (May 25, 2004)

*Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer*

Hi,

I just got off of the phone with Marc(Valboo) as well the folks at Lucas Oil here in Canada.

It was my birthday yesterday (if you want to send gifts, please IM me.. LOL) and my Boss/Friend/X-Trail owner took me out for lunch. While we were at the Brasserie/Pub, They had on Car racing and he looked at me and asked me if i ever hear of Lucas Oil..of course I did not. Steve also is the East Coast Rep for the Hot Rod Association (Custom built cars). he has an 1931 Dodge Eight, one of 4 in the world 1999 GM Firehawk Special Edition cars... to name a few and of course his X-Trail whihc he pruchased after he saw mine!.

He knew that I was going to be doing my Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil change today at Metro Nissan and told me to pick up a bottle of Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer from Canadian Tire which I did and replace 1 litre with it. It's not cheap $19.99/bottle.

Ok.. Go to Metro Nissan, they do the 18k checkup, oil change, etc... It's ready. I turn on the X-trail and the car is quiter than before...hmm... I go to back up and thought I woul die.. I touched the peddle and flew back...ok... it's a parking lot.. I am backing out... let me take this on the road...

As I am driving, I notice the engine is much more quiet....less vibration... and i have to push lighter on the pedal... ok this weird...I get out of Lasalle onto highway 20 about 9:15am... no traffic due to everyone on holidays... and let it rip... If I can sound like a kid..or my son.. "OH My GOD!!!..

I have had additives over the years but i do not know what they put into this stuff... Lucas products I have found out are used by many in the racing industry, trucking industry, hot rodders, etc.... but I tell you what a difference!!! I then went for a "Cruise" with my wife for my Birthday Lunch
in Hudson Quebec, about 35 minutes from where I live in the West Island of Montreal... so I get onto the Trans-Canada...

... If she could have slapped me she would.. All I kept hearing her say was what is wrong with you!!! Why are you driving so fast... My X-Trail is another vehicle with this Lucas oil in it... I am learing to step a little lighter again on my peddle.

I called Lucas Oil Canada and spoke with them and they laughed.. they get the same response from any people who call them and no they did not tell me what is in it!! 

Marc(Valboo) is going to try a bottle the next oil change as well so we will get his reaction as he is a standard and mine is automatic. I will let yoou know over the next week what my reaction if changed is...but so far... I am very impressed... very... and many aftermarket additives that I have tried over the years just do not work.

Stephen


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*Zac*, I'm glad you like the Chevron Supreme. I have 4+ quarts of their newest 5W-30 (GF4) ready to go into my ride this fall. Gonna do a short oil drain interval with it before I switch over to synthetics again for the winter. 

*SCHBECH*, I am not a fan of Lucas products, I'll say that up front.

Their "synthetic" motor oil is reported to be one of the group III 'pretend' synthetics. That right there is a really bad sign. I believe the only true synthetics are Group IV PAOs and Group V esters (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line, NEO, Schaeffer, etc ...). Using Group III means they're more into profits than real quality or performance.

Their original heavy-duty oil stabilizer is thought to be "bright stock" which is a super-thick petroleum product often added to gear oils to make them "climb" up slow-moving gears. This stuff also seems to have a "foaming" effect in some applications which is definitely not good.

I have no idea what they put in their "synthetic" stabilizer but neither product is thought to contain any metallic barrier anti-wear adds such as ZDDP, moly & boron. That's the stuff I look for in a high-performance oil.

I've been tempted to try their UCL ... but heard it interfered with UOAs so I haven't thus far.

The end result is any heavier oil will make your engine quieter. As for making it seem faster, I'd have to chalk that one up to "placebo effect."


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## chansen (Feb 7, 2005)

An interesting read on the Lucas product:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Not quite the same glowing endorsement.






ValBoo said:


> This post by Chansen was moved from thread: "2006 X-Trail model..." and added to this thread: "Synthetic oil versus Regular".
> ValBoo.


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*chansen*, yes, that demo is pretty disturbing ... but not every application will churn the oil in that same way. So, while I won't use this stuff, I can't say it would be bad for _every_ application.

And, in general, I don't want to be a total tool saying the Lucas line of products are no good. After all, no SL or SM oil is 'bad.' But after seeing some testing (lab testing, not subjective seat-of-the-pants stuff) I'm simply not terribly impressed with their products and prefer to buy other brands ... either mass market stuff from Pennzoil or Chevron or specialty stuff from Schaeffer.

Also, UOAs actually show some engines wearing MORE with heavier oils. You will also see reduced fuel economy and flywheel horsepower with thicker oil, all things being equal, because of hydrodynamic drag (pumping losses).

Besides, if I wanted a thicker oil, I'd much rather buy a thicker grade off the shelf as opposed to buying $1-5 per quart oil ... then 'fortifying' it with another quart at $8-20 per quart. Makes more economic sense and you are getting a properly blended product with almost zero chance of additive clash.

Speaking of thickness, I have 2 anecdotal accounts which suggest the exact opposite about the QR25DE and oil. When my car was exactly 1 year old, I dumped the Red Line 5W-30 out of it and switched to Schaeffer 5W-30 synthetic blend. That and a new air filter were the only changes I made. The car instantly shot up about 2 mpg average. That's about 6-7% which is a really signicant jump in mileage.

On the other hand, I'd been running 5W-30 ever since ... except this summer when I decided to get rid of some odd stocks of Schaeffer I had lying around. So, I used mostly 10W-30 ... with a full quart of 15W-40 thrown in.

During my July 2 trip to Limerock Park in Connecticut, I got 31.0mpg with this slightly thick oil in the sump ... one of the best tankfuls I've ever recorded.

Go figure.


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## SCHESBH (May 25, 2004)

*Follow up*

Ok.. I went on my Regular trip to the U.S. .. found another new Border to get across no lines at all!!! I hate going through the main borders Lacolle / Philipsburgh ... and found a great route and scenic!!!

I filled up the car while in the U.S. with Mobil 1 Medium grade gas and put in 2oz of Lucas Gas treatment as well recommeded by several people and half of the amount as indicated on their bottle.... gas is still cheaper in the U.S. but that is another topic! 

Just so all of you know I am not nor do I represent myself as a Lucas representative and Marc (Valboo) can vouch for this!!! I just know many in the Hot Rod arena that build their custom cars worth in the 80K and up price range.. who swear by some of their products they use... Working in Advertisement I know what bull is being fed or worded to make the consumer purchase their products .. I do not need advise on this as I am just as guilty since I work in this field... that's another story...

Usually I have obtained on my gas meter (this is not an accurate test but an indication of what I have observed to date)... 125-130km at the first 1/4 tank used. I always top off my car so it is filled the same way each time. This time I have obtained 200km and know change in my driving habit.. some you don't even want to know..LOL

I am going to see how far I get on a tank of gas this time......the only changes again were the added Lucas Oil Synthetic Additive to my Mobil 1 Oil change and the Lucas Gas treatment.

On another note, Marc is trying the Lucas as well since he is on vacation like me... and will be checking his oil after driving around to see if there is any color difference etc.

Make for interesting times....

Stephen


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## Sergei_dekker (Jun 4, 2005)

so lets say I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic oil...which rating is the best? 0w-40? or anything better? I'd want good performance....I'm kinda bad at oils so please advise me thanks


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## WildBoar (Jul 16, 2005)

Sergei_dekker said:


> so lets say I am using Mobil 1 Synthetic oil...which rating is the best? 0w-40? or anything better? I'd want good performance....I'm kinda bad at oils so please advise me thanks


I am using 5w/30 because that all it ever had in it. I live in Florida and folks say 10w s fine. Is there a benefit in switching 0w 5w or 10w?


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

*Sergei_dekker*: _"So, let's say I am using Mobil 1 synthetic oil ... which rating is the best? 0w-40? Or anything better? I'd want good performance... I'm kinda bad at oils so please advise me. Thanks." _

Mobil 1 0W-40 is good ... but it tends to shear down once you get past the 3,000-4,000 mile mark. Generally, the larger spread between the two numbers, the less shear-stable the oil, even among synthetics.

Singapore is awfully hot, yes? A lot of Mobil 1 fans use their more stable 10W-30 and 15W-50 in a 50/50 mix for heavier-duty applications. The 10W-30 is fine on its own but it, like all Mobil 1 oils, starts a little thin. So, they 'fortify' it with the 15W-50 ... which is a thin 50 weight at temp.

Also, the 15W-50 weight has historically had higher levels of barrier wear additives ... although I don't know if that is still true.


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## SCHESBH (May 25, 2004)

*Ok Mileage follow up*

Ok.. it was a 6% increase... not much but enough! 531.1km on a tank of gas... and know I did not let it go bone dry... was it the additive oil or gas who knows... I just glad!


Stephen


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## bas (Oct 12, 2005)

I have just switched to the Mobil 1 synthetic, but am hearing mixed reports about the correct weight for the x-trail. I use a 10w-30 and a mate uses the 15w-50 specs. Please help sought out our 'differences'.


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## Cottage Life (Dec 5, 2005)

What does the dealer say ?? Im sure Nissan has an idea ! I hope ?


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## SCHESBH (May 25, 2004)

*30K*

Well I just had my 30K oil change with Mobil 1, also had the engine noise vibration when starting the car fixed ( Loose Screw under a cover ), Changed from winter to regular tires, and again for the 4th time fixing the Sunroof Wind Deflector.... There are two clips that hold the deflector down on the seal that are held by plastic ties that break .. I guess due to the temperaturt variations. I am going to look to see if I can get silicone ties that are not sensitive to temerature chages.


All for a mere total of $101.00 Canadian...I am not complaining... I also had my rear hatch retinted as I scrated my old tint badly... my fault but at the same time installed a front 6" tint like Marc and it makes a big difference. 

Stephen


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## Canada's Far East (Jun 15, 2005)

*Spring has Sprung*



SCHESBH said:


> Well I just had my 30K oil change with Mobil 1, also had the engine noise vibration when starting the car fixed ( Loose Screw under a cover ), Changed from winter to regular tires, and again for the 4th time fixing the Sunroof Wind Deflector.... There are two clips that hold the deflector down on the seal that are held by plastic ties that break .. I guess due to the temperaturt variations. I am going to look to see if I can get silicone ties that are not sensitive to temerature chages.
> 
> 
> All for a mere total of $101.00 Canadian...I am not complaining... I also had my rear hatch retinted as I scrated my old tint badly... my fault but at the same time installed a front 6" tint like Marc and it makes a big difference.
> ...


While it's a stunning day here (today) it will be several weeks yet before I do the switch-over of tires  

Come on Spring - I wanna get my side steps on  Also want to do the reverse sensors.

That Sunroof Wind Deflector has been problematic for you :thumbdwn: mine's been on for 9 months now - no problems...........wonder if they're pulling them tooooo tight  

Did you guys see the bonnet struts from down under (Au) ? I bought a set on eBay - waiting for them to arrive - hopefully this week.

After install, will post some pics and comments.

Cheers


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