# Fix it time (suggestions)



## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

Hello, 

this weekend sounds about a good time to get into some regular maintenance that I’ve been meaning to do on my 94 Sentra LE. I will be doing regular tune up along with removing the oil pan and resealing it along with another oil leak. 

Now i have two questions the first:

I have a REALLY rough idle, and it's only when I’m stopped at a light and I’m holding the break (auto tranny). Sometimes very diesel like idle. But I noticed that if it is giving me that rough idle and I drop it into neutral or part it idles perfectly. Any ideas on where i should start? 

Secondly, anything that I should replace while I’m working on it? I plan on doing the distributor cap, filters, sparkplugs, cleaning, oil pan reseal. 


Thanks


BTW just in case this helps i own the 1.6 engine with ~198k on the motor.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

I'd check the plug wires while you're in there. I also suggest changing the PCV valve and the hose running to it, as well as a good throttle body cleaning.

My car also has that rough idle in drive from time to time. I'm very interested in how to fix it.


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## Dan9 (Sep 18, 2004)

search for cleaning IACV (Idle air control valve) on here, ii's an easy one and you can do it at the same time you clean your throttle body. If you have the IACV and TB off at the same time you can even clean some sludge out from inside your upper air intake plenum.

plug wires (use a multimeter to check resistances to factory spec)

Also I found that putting in some better gas made the idle smoother. I ran 91 octane way before I advanced my timing, even, and it made the car just run more smoothly. Especially when sitting at idle, I'd have less vibration.

D


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## LS2PWR (Jan 18, 2007)

Here is a list of stuff to change and check which should help the car run better.

1. Distributor Cap & Rotor
2. Spark Plug Wires
3. Spark Plugs ( Buy The Real NGK ones)
4. Oil Change
5. Oil Filter
6. Air Filter
7. New PCV Valve
8. Fuel Filter
9.Clean out IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)
10. Clean out Throttle Body
11. Drain/Flush Out Radiator
12. Check Timing and Make sure its set correctly.
13. Replace 02/Oxygen Sensor on Exhuast Manifold.
14. Flush/Replace Auto Tranny Fluid (You may want to go to a shop for this.)

PRIOR/BEFORE Doing any of the above run a can or two of SEAFOAM thru the brake booster vacuum line and drive the car around for atleast an hour to make sure it did it's work.

With all of the above completed, you should notice a significant difference in the car.

Goodluck


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## dragontoy22r (Jun 27, 2007)

Definitely replace the fuel filter if you haven't recently. Piece of cake install, btw.

The rough idle while in gear can be caused by your vacuum modulator on the side of the transmission. Check the vacuum lines going to it to see if they are cracked. A replacement is only about $15-$30.

If your making a day of it, adjust your valves, flush your radiator and your motor. Do the SEAFOAM treatment I've talked about in other threads on here. Or PM me about it.

You can pick up a nice set of 10mm spark plug wires on eBay for $50. I used Bosch Platinum +2's in my car and it made quite the difference.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

Thanks a lot guys i'll get started right away.

Now question i've used SEAFOAM on my 300zx before but im a bit more familiar with the vacume lines on it than my Sentra. CAn someone point out the easiest vacume line to drop it into?


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

I used the brake booster, but I had to pour the seafoam into a pop bottle so I could get it in there without spilling it.

What year is the 300zx? I've always wanted one.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

I have a 1990 300zx TT. 

If you want i can post a pic, i just don't know how to post pictures here.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

You have to host it somewhere else, like imageshack or photobucket.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

Here ya go


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

Very nice.


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## dragontoy22r (Jun 27, 2007)

What code did you enter to post that?
<img src=" "> ?


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

no i coppied the direct code [ i m g ] (take out the spaces in between).

Thanks a lot i r teh noobz. I can tell you this, Z's are VERY fun but TT's are a black whole of money. I have had this car for a year and i've spend an ungodly amound of money on it.


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

I'm sure I'll know one day.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

Well I’m having HUGE issues now. I decided that it would be efficient to clean the engine before I change the seals so if it does continue to leak I can see where it was coming from. After covering the battery and the distributor I decide to spray simple green on the engine and spray it down with water. After doing this the car didn't want to start. After I got it running I noticed that it's running on only the # 3 & 4 cylinders. one and two don't seem to be working. I tested this by removing the spark plug wires. I then replaced the spark plugs (NGK), and the distributor and coils. But still nothing. ANY IDEAS?!?!

BTW i have no codes.


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## ram2940 (Mar 16, 2007)

Twindragon said:


> Well I’m having HUGE issues now. I decided that it would be efficient to clean the engine before I change the seals so if it does continue to leak I can see where it was coming from. After covering the battery and the distributor I decide to spray simple green on the engine and spray it down with water. After doing this the car didn't want to start. After I got it running I noticed that it's running on only the # 3 & 4 cylinders. one and two don't seem to be working. I tested this by removing the spark plug wires. I then replaced the spark plugs (NGK), and the distributor and coils. But still nothing. ANY IDEAS?!?!
> 
> BTW i have no codes.


Try cleaning the electrical plug on the distributor.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

They are all new plugs, distributor, and coils so i don't think that's the issue. But ill try it either way. 

question for you guys is there any issues with spraying the engine with water? for example injectors getting waterlogged?


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

It won't hurt the engine, but be very careful about where you spray. There are plenty of things under the hood that aren't supposed to get wet (anything with a plug).


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

So i turned on the car this morning and it's still the same story. it's just running on two cylinders everything seems to be dry. 

ANY IDEAS??!?!


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

I also was looking at the distributor that i changed out and i don't belive this is correct:


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## dragontoy22r (Jun 27, 2007)

So you did a tune-up including the cap and rotor? Replace those again. Not all parts across the counter are perfect. Probably cost you $10, right? You always get what you pay for. Try that, pushing on all the plugs to make sure everything has a good connection, pull the spark plugs and make sure they're not fouled. Just check and re-check everything. Then, if that doesn't work, have someone else look, like a girlfriend. They have a tendency to notice things we've overlooked.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

spark plugs (NGK), distributor, and coils are all new (no miles on them) i was more curious about the order in which they are hooked up (if the proper cylinder is hooked up to the proper spot on the distributor. 

apart fron that is there any other thins that i should look at for the issues im having?


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## i r teh noobz (Apr 26, 2007)

Your wires look like they are in the wrong order. I think the order is 1-3-4-2, but I could be mistaken.


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

i r teh noobz said:


> Your wires look like they are in the wrong order. I think the order is 1-3-4-2, but I could be mistaken.



Sorry but i get confused when people say that. using this pic can someone help me out?


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## Twindragon (Jun 8, 2007)

I've searched the topic and it does state that it is a 1 3 4 2 firing order but i cant figure out what position in the distributor to start connecting that order in. Anybody?? if someone had a picutre of their engine bay that would help (as long as i can tell where the coils lead to).


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