# 91 D21 HB, Automatic, Reg Cab, Bad Drive Shaft



## DizTheMan (Nov 15, 2015)

I have run into the what may be the final days of actually being able to keep my D21 HB truck on the road. While driving home from work, I noticed a sudden vibration that let me know fairly quickly that something was wrong. The front half of the drive shaft that hold the carrier bearing was locked up. As I pull off the road I had no idea what a truly disappointing road I was facing. After getting the truck towed home I started searching for U-joints and found the staked in OEM U-joints would have to be pressed out. After getting a set of bearing from Rockford to replace the OEM's and a new carrier bearing, I find out the front half of the shaft is shot. The roller pins had worn a hold in the bearing cap of the u-joint and molded themselves into the yolk. Now, after 3 weeks of looking, I am realizing that Nissan must consider their drive shafts the gold standard, because I haven't found one used for less then $400.00. That's with new u-joints but they are staked in again. I'm on a budget and now have no way of fixing the truck. Nissan want 900.00 for a new drive shaft which just tells me they must be smoking something because to me that's servicing the customer from behind while their bent over. Needless to say I am stuck and as much as I want to keep this little truck, I may have to part with it unless someone out there has a drive shaft they will part with for less then 200.00. I can rebuild it, so if you happen to have one please let me know, I would greatly appreciated it. Otherwise I may be looking for another ride and a new job as I am finding it hard to even get to work. 

Thanks,

DizTheMan


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

That sucks.

Around here, there are a couple of places that specialize in drive shafts. The 4x4 guys usually know where these places are, and they are much cheaper than the dealership. I think the dealership's prices cater to people that have warranties. They don't care about the cost because the warranty is covering it.

If you find a drive shaft shop, you do not have to stick with a 2-piece drive shaft. You can always save some money by having them install a 1-piece drive shaft.

See this post of mine:

transmission - 1 Piece versus 2 Piece Drive Shaft - Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Stack Exchange


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

When I worked for the dealer and it wasn't under warranty, we could send the driveshaft out to a driveshaft shop. They would cut the old U-joint/yoke assy. out and weld in a new assy., then balance the shaft. It was a lot cheaper than purchasing a new shaft from Nissan. Also, Dorman has started making reman. shaft assys., but I think they only have them for the 2WD Hardbody. Try searching at Rockauto.com.


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## DizTheMan (Nov 15, 2015)

I looked into the single drive shaft and found that for the Nissan 2wd hard body the issue is the cross member that the carrier bearing sits on. The biggest issue I have been running into in the area I'm in is finding someone who actually has a used drive shaft. I see the same model trucks as mine all over the place. The parts at the yards are gone before they even hit the back lots. I found a set of U-joints from Rockford that will replaced the staked in OEM U-joints and pressing them out was pretty smooth but finding the shaft for a 91 base cab 2wb automatic has become a real task. The cheapest refurb I have found is almost 400.00. To some that may not be much, but around my house thats a small fortune. I appreciate the info and I am continuing to search. I am hoping one of the salvage yards comes through in the next few days. 

I have a 93 extended cab with the 5 speed and the same motor in my garage but I'm still in the middle of the motor rebuild and the shaft on it will not match up with the automatic.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

There was an article on the web that shows how to replace the U-joints on staked-in style driveshafts, but I can't remember where I saw it. You might try doing a little Googling to find it if you are interested. Personally, I wouldn't swap the double-shaft for the single shaft. I'd also be leery of using a used driveshaft.


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## DizTheMan (Nov 15, 2015)

I've pressed the u-joints out already. It is easy if you have a press and you shim the Yoke on the vottom to keep it level. Once the stakes are popped, you have to move to a vice and knock the bearing caps out before finally pulling the u-joint out. You have to use a file and file any burrs and remove the stakes that are left. Then your good ro go. Ny problem is the front section is toast.


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