# Front Wheel bearing replacement



## nissanspeed666 (Sep 24, 2008)

So has any of you guys changed a wheel bearing? What am I execting to have to swap it out, I hear it might be pressed in. Thanks


----------



## PhantomSunny (Apr 22, 2007)

nissanspeed666 said:


> So has any of you guys changed a wheel bearing? What am I execting to have to swap it out, I hear it might be pressed in. Thanks


Well so far the ones I have encountered are all pressed. Had to remove the hub and have it serviced at the shop. Alignment required after so if you can find an all-in-one shop it would be good.


----------



## slavrenz (Apr 16, 2010)

I have my own 6 ton press ($90 at harbor freight tools), so it didn't take me more than 2 hours per side, first time. but yeah, you'll need a new bearing, new snap rings, new wheel seals. much easier to just remove the steering knickle and take it to a shop to let them swap out all the parts. Also, you'll need a torque wrench capable of 200+ ft-lbs for the axle nut. Luckily, O'reilly Auto parts rents one that can go up to 250.

as for the alignment, it's debatable. If everything is installed correctly and lined up perfectly, I don't think you need an alignment. I know I didn't get one when I did both of my bearings, and when I went in 5k miles later, they said everything was dead on.

Alignments are all about compensating for the movements of various suspension and steering components on your car. IMHO, eveything is out together under so much pressure in that area, that* if it's all lined up correctly and you've got no other damaged components*, you shouldn't need an alignment.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Take off the hub, buy new bearing and seals, have machine shop press in new one.
figure $100 for all this.
They destroyed my brake dust shield, so be prepared to throw it away.
Then an alignment.
opps missed A Zero !!


----------



## PhantomSunny (Apr 22, 2007)

slavrenz said:


> ...as for the alignment, it's debatable. ...
> 
> Alignments are all about compensating for the movements of various suspension and steering components on your car. IMHO, eveything is out together under so much pressure in that area, that* if it's all lined up correctly and you've got no other damaged components*, you shouldn't need an alignment.


I disagree. You can probably get away with keeping the toe by simply not moving the tie rod or tie rod ends but camber is adjusted from the strut bolts and attachment to the hub. You have to remove the hub to get to the bearing so it will be hit or miss getting back the correct camber.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

PhantomSunny said:


> I disagree. You can probably get away with keeping the toe by simply not moving the tie rod or tie rod ends but camber is adjusted from the strut bolts and attachment to the hub. You have to remove the hub to get to the bearing so it will be hit or miss getting back the correct camber.


All true , but remember if the camber changes it changes the toe too !!


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

sorry missed a zero above, its about $100 a side if you do it yourself.


----------



## slavrenz (Apr 16, 2010)

PhantomSunny said:


> I disagree. You can probably get away with keeping the toe by simply not moving the tie rod or tie rod ends but camber is adjusted from the strut bolts and attachment to the hub. You have to remove the hub to get to the bearing so it will be hit or miss getting back the correct camber.


If you read your factory service manual, it says that camber, caster, and kingpin inclination are all set at the factory, and cannot be adjusted. It goes on to say that if these are out of spec, there must be damaged suspension components.

I stand by what I said before - a wheel alignment is not necessary, assuming that everything is installed and aligned properly.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

So when you worked on this there was no change in your alignment settings ?

When I did this on mine there was enough slop to change the camber from out-of-spec to in-spec !!!
So if you take it apart you should at least get it checked !!


----------



## slavrenz (Apr 16, 2010)

IanH said:


> So when you worked on this there was no change in your alignment settings ?
> 
> When I did this on mine there was enough slop to change the camber from out-of-spec to in-spec !!!
> So if you take it apart you should at least get it checked !!


I'm sure it was out of alignment when the bearings were bad, but my point is what you just confirmed - once you have all the parts replaced and tightened, your alignment should be fine.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you have the original factory struts, then alignment should not be an issue. However, many aftermaket struts have oval holes so adjustments can be made, so in those case alignment is necessary. If it hasn't been done in awhile, it probably wouldn't hurt to have it checked anyway! Another way to R&R the bearings is using a hub tamer. This tool allows replacement of the bearings on-car, but the tool is expensive and you'll want to have air tools handy. You may be able to find a parts store that has a loaner program that has one. As far as the brake backing plate, it can be saved if the person is careful and knows what he's doing. I wouldn't recommend throwing out the old one unless it is being replaced with a new one.


----------



## slavrenz (Apr 16, 2010)

smj999smj said:


> If you have the original factory struts, then alignment should not be an issue. However, many aftermaket struts have oval holes so adjustments can be made, so in those case alignment is necessary. If it hasn't been done in awhile, it probably wouldn't hurt to have it checked anyway! Another way to R&R the bearings is using a hub tamer. This tool allows replacement of the bearings on-car, but the tool is expensive and you'll want to have air tools handy. You may be able to find a parts store that has a loaner program that has one. As far as the brake backing plate, it can be saved if the person is careful and knows what he's doing. I wouldn't recommend throwing out the old one unless it is being replaced with a new one.


Agreed. My previous statements assume that you have OEM struts or struts with circular holes that can't be adjusted. But yes, I get my car aligned every 10k miles to keep my tires from wearing - I'm not saying it should never be done, I'm just saying that a wheel bearing replacement in and of itself will not cause a car to go out of alignment.

As for the hub tamer, I've never seen one of these at a parts store to rent. I've heard that they can run about $300, so definitely not for the occasional DIYer. Once you remove the steering knuckle once or twice, it gets pretty easy, IMO.

And yes, as far as the backing plate goes, I was able to press my bearings without ruining the backing plate. Probably not a good idea to just leave it off.


----------



## slavrenz (Apr 16, 2010)

Here's a good general How-To with a lot of steps applicable to the Sentra. My other car is a Mazda Protege, if you couldn't tell.

Protege Front Wheel Bearing Service - LOTS OF PICS - Mazdas247.com


----------



## hinski (Aug 29, 2010)

Hi,
Always think safety first whenever you're working around machinery. It is very, very important to never work on a car that is only supported by a jack, always place a sturdy foundation under the vehicle to prevent it from falling on you.Even if the bearings are not making a noise it is always a good idea to have them inspected every 30,000 miles. I have it done when my breaks are replaced.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

slavrenz said:


> I'm sure it was out of alignment when the bearings were bad, but my point is what you just confirmed - once you have all the parts replaced and tightened, your alignment should be fine.


Actually you missed the point. the Camber was out, and I got it in by moving the slop the correct way.
So the slop in the bolt holes is enough to change the alignment.

But whatever you want, it depends on how much you value your tires vs the cost of an alignment.


----------



## lukesSX (Feb 17, 2010)

hinski said:


> Hi,
> Always think safety first whenever you're working around machinery. It is very, very important to never work on a car that is only supported by a jack, always place a sturdy foundation under the vehicle to prevent it from falling on you.


Do you work for OSHA? LoL, j/k. Yeah, it's good to keep safety in mind. 

Probably best to mark everything so your alignment is as close as possible before you take everything apart.


----------

