# Died on Freeway, I dont know why



## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

I was comming home tonight same as always. Comming down a hill the car died; engine stopped, and the idiot lights came on. Managed to get it to a parking lot. 

I can crank the engine over, but can only start it when pumping the gas, though it misses, and only stays running when the pedal is to the floor. If I leave off the pedal, of corse it dies almost at once.

Im thinking that it may be the spark plugs, but others are thinking that its a fuel or timing issue. I dont suspect the timing chain, though what the hell do I know. This is a second car that we have just to get my ass back and forth to work. I havent ventured much past routine maintenance, and even that I havent had to do since we have a new car and its all under warranty.

I bought this car because the other Sentras we have owned were great cars and ran very well. This one has cost me a small fortune and Ive only had it a month. Id appriciate any suggestions or things to rule out to narrow the scope of what could be the problem down.

Simply its a 95 200SX with a 5 speed, with approximatly 140k miles. All maintenance has been done, plugs, filters, fluids are all new. Hell, if anyone in the SoCal area would care to take a look personally, I wouldnt mind paying a 'consultants' fee. Im not mechanically enclined as I had hoped, so any help is appriicated.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

wissnx01 said:


> I was comming home tonight same as always. Comming down a hill the car died; engine stopped, and the idiot lights came on. Managed to get it to a parking lot.
> 
> I can crank the engine over, but can only start it when pumping the gas, though it misses, and only stays running when the pedal is to the floor. If I leave off the pedal, of corse it dies almost at once.
> 
> ...


Hard to tell from this distance. Try listening to injectors with screw driver.
Check for fuel pressure, is pump priming when you turn it on ?
Check for spark on all the leads.
It possible its a coil or ignition, but I dont think its timing or timing chain.

Good Luck.....


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## ghost_ryder35 (Feb 28, 2006)

I would check the spark (take a spark plug and touch it to the frame of the car and see if a spark jumps from the end of the plug to the frame), do this for each plug. I think maybe its a weak fuel pump maybe, fuel pump about to die. anyone else think that?


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Actually, two others I have spoke to who know a heck of alot more than I suggested that the pump may be failing. It will prime itself, but perhaps its just an immenant failure. Im going to try and get it home tonight when its late and there is little traffic. Its about 30 miles away, so it could be tough. However, once I get it back, I will probably replace the fuel pump, just to eliminate that for now, and to get rid of that as a possible failure in the future. Unfortunatly, I am running low on money, so I will probably head out to the scrap yards this weekend and seek out a newer sentra and see if I can recover a semi-newer fuel pump. Using a used one will definatly require me to change it to a new one in the future, but by then I shouldnt be strapped for cash as much.

Also, I did try to remove the Number 1 plug wire, and the damn rubber boot came off with the plastic thing still in the cylindar. I attempted to free it with a long screwdriver, but a small edge of that plastic fell into the cylinder. Fortunatly its not in the engine, yet. Right now I hope that it melts to something, otherwise, I dont look forward to tearing it down just for a tiny piece of plastic, but I know that will destroy the engine fairly quick. Im wondering if I can remove the plug, and it falls into the combustion chamber, then crank the engine, in hopes the pressure will shoot it out. Doesnt seem likely, but I cant risk removing the plug, otherwise it will fall in the combustion chamber.

Its just a small series of problems like this that fustrate me. So, once I get the fuel pump changed out, its time for new spark plug wires.

I appriciate your response and advice, it will prove useful. For the longest time I went to some automotive trade schools, thinking it was my calling, only to realize I couldnt afford it, and it just wasnt something that I cared to do. Now, I can set up a large Token Ring network or fix most any computer failures, just dont ask me about cars! Either way, thanks again.


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## oliverr87 (Sep 23, 2005)

Dude, you live in Riverside? I live in West Covina, if you want, i'll take a look at it for free or whatever. =) But yea, it does sound like a fuel delivery issue...the car wouldn't just 'die' unless the pump wasn't properly pumping fuel. It could also be that your injectors are clogged or something, try running a bottle of Chevron Techron or Redline Fuel System Cleaner (NOTHING ELSE, OR YOU WILL RUIN THE INJECTORS) and see if that helps.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Ill be damned I was comming home from work in West Covina when it died comming down the hill into Pomona. Id appricate if you could. Unfortunatly, wife took the car, otherwise I would meet you there. When would you have time. Its always a good thing to have assistance from another Nissan fan.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Took some suggestions from Oliver, went out to recover the car, and I couldnt get it to start at all. Fuel delivery is good, until it gets to the fuel rail. Because i cant get it off easily to see if its clogged, I have no idea what to do. I definatly have concluded that the fuel is now not getting to the combustion chamber, I just dont know where its blocked.

If anyone has any advice, Id appriciate it, otherwise, I will have to have it towed and repaired by someone obviously more capable than I.


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## ghost_ryder35 (Feb 28, 2006)

your injectors are probally bad. or i belive theres a resistor box for the fuel injectors that could have shorted out causing them to stay closed. check that out.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

A resistor box is one of those big blue fuses, right? Christ bad injectors! thats going to be expensive.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Its just flooding out. Spark is good, pump is fine. Plugs just become real fouled up with gas. Seems like the injectors might be open, but they are electrical, needing to be pulsed with an electrical charge to open, so doesnt seem likely. Oliver and I were able to get a better look at it. The flooding is an issue that would cause it to not start at all now. We both know the trick of starting a flooded Sentra. Unfortunatly, that method isnt making any difference.

Any other thoughts would be great.


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## ghost_ryder35 (Feb 28, 2006)

so the car is flooded? spray some carb cleaner in the intake manifold and crank it at the same time. stand back, but that bitch should turn on then. why would flooding cause it to turn off? there has to be another problem


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Thats what we are trying to figure out now. If its too flooded, then it wont start since its too rich. We are also thinking maybe the timing has jumped. But we are unsure of how to diagnose that. At this point Im ready to get it towed and have someone else deal with it and Ill pay the price later.


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## Kennizmo (Oct 17, 2005)

wissnx01 said:


> Thats what we are trying to figure out now. If its too flooded, then it wont start since its too rich. We are also thinking maybe the timing has jumped. But we are unsure of how to diagnose that. At this point Im ready to get it towed and have someone else deal with it and Ill pay the price later.


http://www.snapondiag.com/automotive_inductive_timing_light.asp


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Yeah, you know, if I had the 250 for a timing light that would be great. Ill look around, Im sure I know someone that has one.


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## oliverr87 (Sep 23, 2005)

There is no resistor for the injectors. The pulse is controlled by the ECU. As for the timing, how would you check the timing while cranking the engine?


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

looks like it could be a blown head gasket. I managed to start it for a few seconds, and saw some white/grey smoke.


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## ghost_ryder35 (Feb 28, 2006)

oliverr87 said:


> There is no resistor for the injectors. The pulse is controlled by the ECU. As for the timing, how would you check the timing while cranking the engine?


Sorry about the resitor box post. Trying to transition from hondas to Nissan's, sometimes my fingers think faster then my mind!

you have a timing light. and possibly get it to start, or have a friend help with the checking. maybe the wife


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Well, weve decided on just having the engine replaced. Now, there are rebuilds, and remanufactured engines. I know theres a difference. But generally, what parts do they use from the old engine for the new one. A replacement means they keep everything else, cooling, fuel delivery, ect, right? Anyone have any idea on a price range for rebuilds and remanufactured? And yeah, doing it myself would be cheaper, but I dont have the time nor desire to try such a thing.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

wissnx01 said:


> Well, weve decided on just having the engine replaced. Now, there are rebuilds, and remanufactured engines. I know theres a difference. But generally, what parts do they use from the old engine for the new one. A replacement means they keep everything else, cooling, fuel delivery, ect, right? Anyone have any idea on a price range for rebuilds and remanufactured? And yeah, doing it myself would be cheaper, but I dont have the time nor desire to try such a thing.


If its a blown head gasket you can check with a compression test.
I would think a low milage used would be cheaper and even better than a rebuilt.
New means from Nissan all unused.
With a rebuild you use all your old ancillaries like pumps, dist, injectors etc.
As far as I know rebuilds and remanufactured are simular except the specifications used for replacing worn parts and basically varies with re-builder.
I think you have to ask what is replaced as standard and what is done to the engine. ie clean and measure wear on pistons and replace if unusable vs replace with new automatically.
there are sites that sell low milage JDM engines here in the US.
As you probably gathered I dont think much of re-build quality or the machining that goes with them.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Yeah, I do know that rebuilds have a higher instance for failure as opposed to remanufactured.


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## robsaari (Dec 26, 2004)

Check the timing. The timing chain/belt may have slipped or jumped a notch or two. This could explain why it will only start with the throttle wide open.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

I appriciate it. I will be getting it home today. A friend is going to drag it home. Once here, I can troubleshoot it further and probably figure it out better. Otherwise, Im looking at 2500 for a replacement engine from Japan.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Okay, got it home and managed to get it started for a few minutes, figures. Seems like the disributor cap and rotor may need replaced. Timing checks out perfect, actually. So something that I was looking to spend 2000 on will cost less than 10% of that. So I appricate everyones assistance in this, Im sure I will have further questions as I resolve issues.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Finally figured what the problem was. The distributor rotor apparently had a crack in it, enough to where the screw that holds it onto that shaft came off. Apparently the screw was in there flopping around causing trouble when there was enough spark to run the car.

So I pretty much wasted 200 bucks for a tow and diagnosing other potential problems when it turned out to be a 10 cent screw that was fouling up the works. I completed the tune up with a new rotor, distributor cap, wires, plugs. Goes to show how something simple can look like a larger problem.


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## Kindfiend (Oct 13, 2004)

Edit: nevermind


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## ditto0011 (Mar 2, 2005)

thats good that you found out b4 you spent the $!!! on my engine you could hear that the timing chain guide and tensioners were starting to wear and the engine sounded like it ran under stress a lot, then i started getting a knocking at what i thought was the crankshaft, thought i spun a bearing maybe, so i got a used engine outa a wrecked sentra(350) then spent 1100 to have it put it and repair minor things about it only to find out that the freakin knocking was a bad bearing in the godamn alternator... changed it and now it sounds beautiful, my car has never sounded so good.... if i can only fix this stupid electrical prob now.......


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## SupraMK3 (Oct 2, 2005)

Sup guys, I live in Alhambra. Is there a 200sx club in SoCal? I have no idea how to check timing if the engine won't start. And timing light gun doesn't cost $250 unless you get the professional shit. BTW, nobody uses token ring network anymore. hehe


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## wine (Feb 23, 2005)

*suggestions*

If your car's lights go dimmer the more you drive it's the alternator (it's draining electical power from the battery).

If the car stalls it's fuel related. Good chance a dirtfuel filter.

My Sentra is supposed to run on 87 octane but unless I run it on premium it has no pep.


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## wissnx01 (Aug 7, 2003)

Well, its been about 3 months, and this has since happened twice more. The damned screw just comes loose, and stalls the car out, always on the freeway. Its been suggested to me to use nailpolish to coat the screws threads, and then screw it in, making it so it doesnt come out.

My first question is, what the hell is causing this thing to come out. Before it was about 1 month, now it happened about a week later.

Second is, does this nailpolish method work, and could it have any adverse effects?


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## oliverr87 (Sep 23, 2005)

Wtheck, it happened again? I replaced my cap and rotor 2 months ago, no problems...you sure you have the right screw?


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## chikinwing2 (Aug 22, 2005)

i recently had a similar problem with this. unfortunantl i had to take mine to the shop. my distributer went bad, it will act as if it is a random miss. check the check ingen codes and see what they flash. mine flashed that it was the second cylinder mis-fire but it was the distributor tripping the light.


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## chikinwing2 (Aug 22, 2005)

that screw is a bitch, even if you replace the rotor and car, that piece of metal that the screw goes into is actually part of the distributor, everytime that screw comes out it bores out that hole alittle bit a little bit longer and that screw will not even bite down. a simple and cheap solution is to go with the same length but about a 16th of an inch wider wtih roughly the same threading, or get some lock-tight with the original screw which should lock it down but when going to replace it, it will be a s.o.b. to get it off. or do what i had to do. the solution that finally worked for me was to replace the whole thing when the distributor went bad.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

chikinwing2 said:


> that screw is a bitch, even if you replace the rotor and car, that piece of metal that the screw goes into is actually part of the distributor, everytime that screw comes out it bores out that hole alittle bit a little bit longer and that screw will not even bite down. a simple and cheap solution is to go with the same length but about a 16th of an inch wider wtih roughly the same threading, or get some lock-tight with the original screw which should lock it down but when going to replace it, it will be a s.o.b. to get it off. or do what i had to do. the solution that finally worked for me was to replace the whole thing when the distributor went bad.


Another thought would be to see if you can use a longer screw AND some locktight.
The only other solution without getting a new shaft or distributer is to helicoil the threads in the shaft.

Good Luck...


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