# Clutch pedal sticks to the floor ?



## gatr (Aug 1, 2004)

My Daughters 95 240 clutch pedal will stick to floor ONLY when she has been on expressway a while and when she exits and depresses the clutch pedal it will stick to the floor ....she can reach down and pop it up with her foot ...it ONLY does it once in a while and ONLY after driving on the expressway ...any idea's ? Thanks


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

Could be the clutch master cylinder on the way out. Check for fluid leaking inside the cabin up the top of the clutch pedal where the cyliner piston comes through the firewall.


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## AlexAtMyNismo (Apr 16, 2004)

agreed, has it ever been changed in the past?...if no, then maybe it's time to replace it. Only other thing i can think of is a realy weak and tired pressure plate.....

-Alex B.


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## Slidin_with_style (Aug 10, 2004)

gatr said:


> My Daughters 95 240 clutch pedal will stick to floor


It's all most like crank walk in a DSM. LOL 
No but those two are more than likely right. You should take it to a shop to be checked out.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

mine did the same thing (hydraulic clutch) and it was something that was not adjusted properly after the slave cylinder.


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## ronaldo (Feb 23, 2004)

is she lookin to fix it up???


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## Zombie Elvis (Jun 21, 2004)

gatr said:


> My Daughters 95 240 clutch pedal will stick to floor ONLY when she has been on expressway a while and when she exits and depresses the clutch pedal it will stick to the floor ....she can reach down and pop it up with her foot ...it ONLY does it once in a while and ONLY after driving on the expressway ...any idea's ? Thanks


My N14 had a draggy clutch for years. Replacement cables didn't fix it. A few cables snapped. At one point the pedal box snapped one of it's arms and it had to be re-welded. The repair wasn't quite straight because it was so difficult to get to under the steering column. After this, when the cable was particularly dragging, the spring loading to return the pedal couldn't overcome the friction and it would do exactly what you describe.

Finally, my clutch plate sheared off with a bang one day. The ring holding the friction material is connected via three tabs to the central plate thing on that clutch plate. The tabs all shat themselves and showed the blue stain of extended heat damage. To fully describe the broken piece, when I was given the two pieces, I had the larger donut shaped piece with the friction material, and a separate smaller plate thing that went over the shaft and was inside the friction ring.

When it was repaired the mechanic says that the bearing wasn't quite on centre so it's been giving all the clutch resistance for years and was overheating. After it was repaired properly the clutch feel was magic and much lighter. I don't know if it was built incorrectly in the factory (I bought the car when it had 15000 km on the clock) but I don't ever recall it having a light pedal. Perhaps a mechanic in it's first year of life screwed up the clutch.

Now I'm not saying you've got a badly aligned clutch and/or bearing, but the point is that anything in the system that adds friction will make it harder for the spring to return the pedal.

I suggest you compare the clutch feel with another identical vehicle and see if it is heavier than it should be. If it is, it could be something as simple as the cable that needs replacing. I also noticed that the port in my firewall was upside down at one point. That is probably what caused the extra drag that blew up the pedal box. Perhaps a mechanic who replaced one of the cables put the port fitting upside down, which means it's pointing about 60 degrees off the proper line. When i found it, it had been 1/2 sawed thru by the cable.

To check the firewall port (I don't know it's proper name), look inside the engine bay to find where the clutch cable comes out. You need to feel around from down at the pedal box and at the firewall to work out which way the little cast portal piece should be installed. The hole thru the middle of the fitting should be inline with the cable of course. On the N14 and probably on many cars, the piece is symetrical on the mounting screw holes so it can be installed upside down.

Also, look for other things that may be dragging on the cable. In the N14 there's a big strong clip on the back of the fire wall that is supposed to hold the clutch cable about 1/2 way along it's journey through the engine bay. It's so strong that it's difficult to get the cable underneath. There will probably be a thick rubber piece around the cable at just the critical location. If the cable is flopping around then it will probably add to the friction. Try to find out if the cable is fully constrained in the engine bay as it was designed to be.

You didn't mention whether the clutch appears to be slipping while the pedal is stuck down, or whether the clutch is fully engaged and capable of driving the car forward under power. If the clutch is also slipping then I would guess that the friction is inside the clutch itself - ie stopping the clutch plate from engaging under it's own built-in spring pressure. If the clutch is properly engaged and only the pedal isn't returning then the friction is probably just in the cable side of the system.

Summary: excess friction in the cable or even the clutch is making it harder for the pedal return spring and maybe the return spring in the clutch to do it's job. Compare with another car to see what you should expect and start investigating.

If the problem is too wierd and difficult to find, many mechanics will probably give up on it. I complained several times over the years about mine without anyone finding anything until the clutch shat itself.


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## angry monkey (Aug 21, 2004)

*pray this is your fix*

sometimes my floor mats are just far up enough to wedge my clutch petal down at the floor.
if this isnt your problem, you should start the car on fire and collect the insurance money and then promptly buy your daughter that kia she has been hoping for.


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