# WTF with the downloaded wiring diagrams...WHERE IS MY ECCS RELAY?



## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

*WHERE IS MY ECCS RELAY? And my car runs HORRIDLY!*

I have downloaded two different diagrams and they both show the same thing. They were supposed to be for the 89 s13. But what they didn't say was if they were hatch specific. Both had the different stuff for the a/t and the manual.

They also show on the fuse box (underhood) that I should have four relays...eccs (blue), fuel pump, healight retract no4 (gray), and inhibitor relay

I only have three...so what the hell...this is the right fuse box as it is the only one with relays and fuses...mine are two green and one gray..the cover says they should be ig coil/fl 30a anti skid (there is nothing there though), egi, egi pump, h/l ret, n&p (nothing on this one either). What the hell do I have? I checked the other relay and they are horn, and retract relays, and ascd hold, and acces...I think fog also. I have no eccs relay????

I'm sure there must be different diagrams for the 89, 90, etc. and even for the hatch especially considering all that was changed each freakin year. The two I have show the rear window wiper amp so I thought they would show me everything.

** SUPER EDIT!!!!!! **





I just relooked at the wires cause I knew I had missed something..two wireing diagrams means I missed something...not that they are both wrong...any way the wires are funky colors coming off the ig switch but after a connector down the lines...the colors match exactly with the wireing diagram. So that's all cool...I have little resistance now from the ig switch to the ignition coild primary and to the fuel pump...MORE GOOD NEWS!!!

SHE FIRED UP TONIGHT!!! WHOO HOO...I put some oil in the valve cover to help lube things since she hasn't run in so long. Well I also no longer have the problem of the car acting like the key is on acces even though it's on off...I don't know how...but everything works ok now.

Now my re-curring problem. She fired up but she runs HORRIBLY!!! It sounds like it's not fireing all cylinders...

*Question #1*I unplugged each injector and all of the dropped the rpm's massivly except number 3. But this doesn't mean an injector problem as it could be dumping fuel...it could also not have spark right?

The motor sounds like it is running rough..like instead of the typical 4cyl vroooooooooo it's more like brr brr brr brr with a nice loud...ticking...no...slapping...not really...clatterish sound...yeah kinda clatterish...for some reason I want to say it sounds like what I would picture the rings would sound like if they were slapping against the piston...but I don't really know what that sounds like and that is just the best way I can put it. 

*Question #2* It didn't start this noise until it had set at Wal-Mart for a while and I got it to fire up the first time...I then killed the engine because I saw that (for some unknown reason) one of the fuel lines was dumping fuel...I never had it do that before but it isn't doing it now...I retightned all my screws to be safe...seems ok now. It had made a slight clicking noise before...very faint...and all the techs I talked to thought it was just and exhaust leak on my manifold...I didn't agree but they had the 8+ years exp so yeah...this noise is different though...any thoughts on it? It didn't start doing it until that last time I fired it up after it set...also it did go away that first time after the motor ran for a few seconds...well it got quieter but didn't go away....it didn't do that this time...it stayed the same level.

*Question #3*Well it is pouring whiteish smoke out the back...some water from previous rains we've had that blem in the muffler also came out...no smell or taste of antifreeze AT ALL...NONE. The smoke smells like a funny exhaust kinda smell...like not normal exhaust and I want to say like fresh motor oil. You ever smelt freshly opened motor oil? Kinda like that but with exhaust smell too...it didn't smell like burnt oil...kinda like fresh oil...that again...is the best way I can think to describe it. I killed the engine...then fired it back up...(engine still warm) I took the rpms to about 2k then dropped...2k drop...each time the smoke just poured out...about this time I set off someones alarm and it was 9:45 so I called it a night after that...I live in an apt complex and didn't want to anger the other tenants. I shined my mag light into the smoke to see what color it really was...I think I saw a blueish almost tint...but I couldn't tell it my mag light was giving a false faint blue or not...there was deff whiteish though...I'll have to fire it up during the day to see if there was any gray (doubt there is) and if there is any true blue. but it did seem like there was blue...not much though. ANy thoughts?


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

*any one got any bright ideas...I'm dang out of 'em*

oook...so no one can help me find the eccs relay? Aight. 

UPDATE

Well she starts up really easy now (when jumped). I think the reason I couldn't get 'er started before was prolly a combination of not having everything hooked up and some poor connections.

Even though my 240 starts up it still runs really rough. I let it sit for a bit while still connected to the other car. There is still that wonderful clacking sound...seems to come more from below than above...eesh...but I still can't really tell. It just goes clack clack clack clack...kinda sounds like when you tap a Bic pen on a desk repeatidly. Actually that is REALLY close to what is sounds like...only more echoish? Yeah.

It is still putting out a little whitish smoke...it was daylight and a little warmer so I could see it a little better. I disconnected the jumper cables and she ran ok for a bit...then she started to die, so I ran over and got a little more air coming it...it picked up and idled again...idled high though. When it tried to idle down was when it was having trouble.

The engine is still kicking really hard, especially when attempting to idle at normal speed and that's the only reason I think that one or more cylinders isn't/aren't fireing. The injector wires all have little resistance in them, both power and ground, same with the crank angle sensor wires and the primary power wire to the coil. I unplugged one injector at a time and this time they all made the rpms drop...inj 4 made it damn near die. 2 and 3 caused the least amount of droppage but was neglidgable between the two. Still no smell of coolant in the exhaust...doesn't rule out the head gasket though. 

I think I need to do a compression and leakage test, I would love to get my injectors tested also. The plugs have VERY little mileage on them and they looked clean when I took them out a few weeks ago, the plug wires are brand spankin new. I cleaned and re-cleaned the dist. cap, dang I need some wire pullers so I can see what if any effect that would have.

I know there is something simple I am overlooking here...like I said though...she fired RIGHT up once I had 'er jumped, she just runs like old nasty shizznit.


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

I didn't really read the full posts, but i glanced over them. just a simple thought: whitish smoke=really cold engine OR burning coolant. your thought of a compression/leak test is a good one. top off all fluids and let her run for a while (maybe after the compression test). 
Engine restore and engine flush are both GREAT products and are available in a can at your local auto store. after you flush, put in some Lucas oil stabilizer. if it is the head gasket leaking, get some block seal (also available in a can).
I'm not trying to say your salvation lies in a can, but this stuff does work. If you use the block seal, you will hate yourself if you ever try to rebuild the motor and doesn't really help out performance, but it does keep you from spraying coolant into your combustion chamber. It may even help your compression.

I am not saying that the problem is not a sensor either. It may be, but I think there is something else to it too. check your fuel pressure with a gauge.

Do a dollar bill test. take a dollar bill and hold it up next to your exhaust. the exhaust pressure should just simply blow the bill steadily away from the tip. if the bill does a flutter or is at all pulled back toward the tip, then you have a burnt or cracked valve(s) to deal with. A burnt or cracked valve would cause a rough idle and misfire. Smoke would most probably be a bi-product as well. This is a simple test. either it pulls back or not.
hope this helps you out some.

truman
peace

PS, I have no idea where your eccs relay would be.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

dj42000_2000 said:


> ...PS, I have no idea where your eccs relay would be.


Thanks for the thoughts bro...that's really all I think I can get with this one...but I love that last note...it's funny to me at least. I hear two relay's click when the key is on and I unplug the connector going to the distributor. I might try and track that second click. 

Well I'll have to wait and get a comp/leak tester, hopefully I'll find out more later...I'll keep updating here as to my success/massive horrid failure...but I'm optomistic.


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