# Turbo's



## TimReeves (Feb 27, 2003)

Does anyone make a turbo for the stock 89 engine? If so, does anyone know where to get it, and how much power increase...
Also, would it be bad for such an old engine...


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## himilefrontier (Jan 21, 2003)

I think Realnissan.com has a turbo kit for it.They seem to specialize in the KA. As far as will it kill the engine, it all depends on it's condition.The biggest worries I would have are bearing condition and ringseal.Do a leakdown test and check the oil pressure to verify the condition of the engine first.255k miles is getting a little tired in most cases-even for a KA!


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## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

Yeah www.realnissan.com does have a T3 turbo kit for the KA. I would put it on but boost no more than about 7 or 8 lbs until you build the motor. That way you never have to worry about not having a car.


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

moding any ka is useless. 89 240sx will have a LOT of mileage and probably won't be in a good condition. screw the turbo and save you money for a sr20det swap. these engines were MADE for the 240sx and they will probably produce more power stock than a turbocharger on a ka24. they will probably cost about the same as well.

s13 sr20det redtop: 200-205hp 2500$ for front clip, 1500$installation
s13 sr20det black top: 200-205hp (slightly newer than redtops) 2700$ for front clip, 1500$ installation
s14 sr20det: 220hp 3000$ front clip 1500$ installation
s15 sr20det: 250hp w/ 6speed trans 5000-7000$ for front clip installation will run around 2000 to 2500$ don't even think about it if you don't have the money..

205hp with a s13 sr20det redtop is better than 100k+ ka24 with a T3 turbo charger
you can easily bump up the hp on the sr20

get the sr20det!!!!


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## TimReeves (Feb 27, 2003)

The car has never been driven hard, and it is all highway miles. I know that the engine has been extremely well taken care of, since we've had it since new. I dont know if that makes any difference though. I know it would be nice to have an SR20DET, but i'm not made of money like some of you


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

255k miles??? holy crap.. that is a lot.. i was just recommending the sr20det since it is a much safer/stable engine to turbo. i know some people who have turbo charged their ka24's and do quite well with it. it is a bit harder to turbo charge the ka24 but has been done. i have heard about 400+hp turbo charged ka24's

for your original question.. i don't really know any places that makes turbo chargers for a ka24e. it may be harder for you to find a turbo charger for a ka24e than a ka24de..


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

i'm glad more people are starting to see the fact that KA's are about the perfect platform for forced induction and even though the RealNissan.com kit is the only one i know of for the KA24E, one turbo kit is all you need. their kits are a lot cheaper than an SR swap and come with T3 or larger turbos, FMIC, fuel upgrades, etc. while you can only expect 300hp from the kit that's about all you can expect an SR20 to handle without stronger internals. but with the KA kit you won't have to upgrade the turbo, fuel system or intercooler to get there. the money you save doing it this way is more than enough to build your bottom end so you can use the turbo at its full 400+hp capacity.
(KA+RlNsn turbo$3K=300hp)
(SR$2K+install$2+T3 1K+FMIC$1K=$6K/350hp)


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2003)

you have one problem of turboing your car to many miles you dont know how good your bearings are


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## esyip (Dec 19, 2002)

bizzy b said:


> *while you can only expect 300hp from the kit that's about all you can expect an SR20 to handle without stronger internals.*


please, get it right. SRs can handle 400-450RWHP easily with stock internals. and no, one way will not necessarily be cheaper than the other. they'll both run about the same amount and put out about the same numbers.


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## lionel (May 13, 2003)

i wanna know the specs on top secret's kouki s14, it has freakin 800 hp. top secret know's how to build their shit.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

esyip said:


> *please, get it right. SRs can handle 400-450RWHP easily with stock internals. and no, one way will not necessarily be cheaper than the other. they'll both run about the same amount and put out about the same numbers. *


BS. if you don't mind a one-run-wonder then go ahead and push 450hp on stock internals. it might even last you a trip to the grocery store. some of us want CONSISTENT power though, and the SR20 has shown itself to self-destruct at 450-500hp. not the internals, mind you, i'm talking about the block itself. talk all you want about "so-and-so is putting down XXX-hp without problems", but they don't drive their car everyday. they don't need it to run so they can get to work. they don't need the engine to last for 50K+ miles. and your "same HP/same $" comment would be relevant except for two factors. (1) you'll only get the same power for the money if you exclude the cost of buying the SR20 itself, a quite costly venture. and (2) even with the same HP you still don't have NEAR as much torque. of course you'll say "torque doesn't matter when you're racing", but it does matter when you're driving. do you drive around at 6000+rpm all day? me either, and personally, i have no desire to.


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## esyip (Dec 19, 2002)

*shakes head again* again, you never read anything nor do you learn anything. i don't know how many times i've repeated myself. and yes, it WILL cost the same amount going either KA or SR (even including engine). 

because the SR CAN and WILL handle 400-450RWHP EASY, 500RWHP is stretching it VERY thin (but it's still no one run wonder, not by far). the SR will be at 400-450RWHP much easier than the KA will be, because it'll deftly need a rebuild at about the 300RWHP mark (if you want to be safe). ~$4k for cost of kit and installation. and about another $2k for a GOOD rebuild. and then you can boost higher. 

like i've said a million times over and over. let's say you buy a redtop (~$2300 for a motorset). remember, installation if fucking CAKE. pay another ~$100 for a shop like Phase2 or someone to do the wiring for you. you've spent $2500 (let's make a nice number). buy larger injectors, FMIC (remember, you can EASILY get a used/effective one from a Starion, Fuso, etc.), larger turbo, new piping, BOV, MBC (if you're cheap right now) or EBC (if you're looking ahead down the road). at this time, you'll be sitting at about ~$6k and be able to run 400-450RWHP with stock internals. 

yes, the SR can go farther, but who needs to? have you ever felt 400-450RWHP in a 240SX? but yes, you'll still need to rebuild it, hell maybe even the Stroker kit. but you also have to remember that even the KA's rebuild might not even last. look at how many engines Chris May went through and he still didn't take his KA24DE-T past 500RWHP (not from what i've seen, anyways).


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## lionel (May 13, 2003)

they yashio silvia has 500+hp,  with a stroker kit.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

$6K? what about installation? easy, yes, but can you do that yourself? then its not free, is it? add AT LEAST $1K to get it done right. and the rebuild cost? if you're gonna be "safe" you need to rebuild the SR too. it may handle 450hp; it may last a couple thousand miles, but if it isn't DEFINITELY going to hold everyday stop-and-go abuse for at least 20K mi (bare minimum) it isn't a safe and reliable setup. so add the $2K you quoted for the KA's rebuild. or show me an SR20DET that has withstood 450hp for 50K mi (no, not a 50K mi engine that has made 450hp for 1K mi) and i might start to take you seriously. it's already $3K more though. and stroker kits? _ STROKER KITS?_ that's another $3K+, not to mention the cost of resleeving. don't even try to say you don't need to resleeve the block with a stroker kit. JUN won't even sell you a stroker kit without the iron cylinder liner (i'm gonna take their years of hands-on research over your internet searching anyday) and chris may? he did it the hard way. some of us have the knowledge and common sense to do things right the FIRST time.

and lionel: don't bring shop cars into this. most of us aren't made of money.


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## lionel (May 13, 2003)

how bout xs engineering, they make a turbo kit for the ka, are they any good??


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

they aren't bad. their KA kit is really intended for an otherwise stock engine though, so they use a non-ball-bearing T3/4 instead of a full T4. this gives it better spool-up, but if you upgrade the rest of the engine the T3 exhaust turbine becomes too much of a restriction at high rpm's to extract maximum power. its also for S14's, not S13's.


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## lionel (May 13, 2003)

ill just stick with gettin an auto tranny sr20det so i can smoke joints, cigs, get head easier, eat mickey d's,  and drift more comfortably. all i need is to put it on drive and e-brake, that's all i ever needed, hell, i was skilled with my s13 pos back in the day. that car was so freakin ugly on the bumpers, you can see the yellow shit due to the original silver blue paint coming off.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

lmao...gotta love it man.


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## esyip (Dec 19, 2002)

i won't repeat myself. you'll just have to read the post over again because i covered everything already.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

so installing the SR is free then? and a stock SR is _just_ as reliable as a built KA at 450hp? please. or should we all walk to work and just drive our cars at the track?


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## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

i'm with bizzy on this one. Theres no way a stock motor can be as reliable as a built motor. I dont care what the specs are or what i've heard. Until I see that motor and hold 450hp for thousands of miles without having any problems, then I will be a believer. But until then I dont buy it. 
The SR20 is very VEry VERY overrated. Too many people think way to highly of the SR and not enough about the KA. Personally I would go with the full KA build and turbo charge that bitch. Dont have to worry about gettin a new motor installed, then have to build it, then spend money on a bigger turbo, then money on installing that bigger turbo, not including the money you have to spend for a FMIC and installation. With the KA you build the bitch, Buy a huge turbo and FMIC and call it a day. One time price for what you want, with reliability.


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## Converted (May 28, 2003)

Odds are that most of us wont see 400-450hp anytime soon.  So to talk about those kind of numbers is pretty fruitless. (at least IMO)

Now 300-350hp is more in the range of what most of us will probably see. And those numbers are both easially acheived by the KA as well as SR.

Considering those numbers I would rather have an engine that is closer to 30k rather than 130k, and designed with a turbo. Granted you could pull your KA and rebuild it before the turbo upgrade, but for the money I dont think you can beat the price of an SR swap.

Not only that but you start with lower compression pistions, as well as piston coolers (correct me if Im wrong, but the KA24 dosent have oil squirters). 

Now granted, Im not going to be driving around town at 6.5k all day long...But Im not going to be driving around town at 1.5k all day either 

-Jake


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## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

My personal preference would to still go with the KA. But like I said thats just me.


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

KA24DE's do have oil squirters and a comp ratio of 8.5 or 9.5 (someone knowledgable please inform us which). i realize he has a KA24E though, which, you're right, doesn't have oil squirters. still, if we're talking realistic power, a 350hp KA may require all of the cash right now for turbo and rebuild, but then he'll have brand new high strength internals and a LOT more torque. with the SR he'll need to buy the engine, perform the swap and then buy each upgrade. by that time he'll have enough miles to make a rebuild a wise idea.


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## esyip (Dec 19, 2002)

E - 8.6:1
DE - 9.5:1

it's rare (except in older engines) to find a N/A with a CR lower than 9:1


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

it specifically says "someone knowledgable". as in himilefrontier or maybe bumpin240, drift240drag or gripen. right or not, i'm not taking your word for it after all the bad information you've given already.


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## drift240sxdragqueen (Oct 23, 2002)

Bumpin240sx said:


> *i'm with bizzy on this one. Theres no way a stock motor can be as reliable as a built motor. I dont care what the specs are or what i've heard. Until I see that motor and hold 450hp for thousands of miles without having any problems, then I will be a believer. But until then I dont buy it.
> The SR20 is very VEry VERY overrated. Too many people think way to highly of the SR and not enough about the KA. Personally I would go with the full KA build and turbo charge that bitch. Dont have to worry about gettin a new motor installed, then have to build it, then spend money on a bigger turbo, then money on installing that bigger turbo, not including the money you have to spend for a FMIC and installation. With the KA you build the bitch, Buy a huge turbo and FMIC and call it a day. One time price for what you want, with reliability. *



when us ay build do u mean rebuild?
plz clarify


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## esyip (Dec 19, 2002)

bizzy b said:


> *it specifically says "someone knowledgable". as in himilefrontier or maybe bumpin240, drift240drag or gripen. right or not, i'm not taking your word for it after all the bad information you've given already. *


oh no. i'm hurt.


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## vsp3c (May 15, 2003)

me too bizzy b.. but if you got any calculus questions, i can help


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## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

drift240sxdrag said:


> *when us ay build do u mean rebuild?
> plz clarify *


I meant build. As in build the motor with performance parts, not more stock parts. But obviously at the same time you would have to change all the little things too. That way you not stuck with a little problem deep down in the motor.


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## C-Kwik (May 1, 2002)

The XS kit runs a T04B. Despite what their website says. Just look at the photo of the kit. It has a 4 bolt, T4 on-center turbine exit flange. 

As far as built motors being more reliable, as pure crap. A stock motor can be just as reliable. But they may not be as DURABLE under higher pressures. But the limiting factor may be more in the compression than the strength of the parts, provided you have tuned the motor well. Built motors will likely have a higher threshold for failure from detonation, but there are no parts that will put up with sustained detonation. Lastly, there are different compositions of alloys used in forged parts. This varies the expansion rates of the parts. Looser tolerances will promote wear. 

As far as compression, all DOHC's were 9.5:1. The SOHC had both 9.0:1(1989) and 8.6:1(1990).


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## bizzy b (Apr 13, 2003)

obviously no engine is going to hold up to _sustained_ detonation, but a built engine WILL have more tolerance for it. i'm not suggesting you try building an engine and doing nothing to enhance fuel and ignition tuning, but where the stock engine may blow a piston or shatter ring lands after only one detonation at 15psi, a built one should hold up to quite a few minor knocks. on the same note, even if you can avoid detonation altogether, the stock rods eventually won't be able to hold up to the stresses put on them at such high pressure, but forged H-beam rods surely will. and admittedly, low- or no-silicon pistons will require a looser fit, but proper ring size, break-in of parts and warm-up and cool-down periods will all but eliminate the additional wear this causes.


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