# SPL Pro aluminum bushing installation - 56K will be pwn3d



## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

I decided some time ago to remove HICAS from my car completely, and knew I was going to need a non-HICAS subframe to complete the removal. Having seen the SPL Pro aluminum subframe bushings some time ago, I thought they would be a good thing to add since I was going to have a donor subframe to play with. Below is a series of pictures detailing the project of removing the old bushings and adding the SPL ones. I omitted the original subframe removal and rear suspension reassembly as they are both straightforward and could be deduced from reading the FSM.

Taking the donor 180SX subframe apart:









SawzAll-ing the inner sleeve out:









The inner sleeve and some rubber after removal:









Using an oxy-acetylene torch to burn the remainder of the rubber out:









“Uh huh huh huh…hey Beavis…burnination is cool!”









The aftermath. Notice how the remaining rubber looks brittle:


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## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

After burning it out, the sleeves were cleaned up using an air-powered buffing wheel. Then…

The old subframe bushing outer sleeve:









The sandblasted 180SX subframe:









Frozen SPL aluminum bushings:









One bushing installed by heating the subframe with an oxy-acetylene torch:









Installing the bushings using a vice:









All 8 bushing pieces installed in the subframe:


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## 2Fass240us (Aug 2, 2004)

The complete subframe after being sprayed with some Eastwood Epoxy spray paint:









My teammate Rob holding the subframe while I “mechanically persuade” it to go on:









The subframe being difficult about going back on:









The tools of mechanical persuasion:









Installed, bishes!









I should note that NOSTALGIC_HERO from FA mentioned an easier way to do this. He recommended using a breaker bar and impact to pull the bushings together with a high-strength bolt, large washers, and nut. You put the bushings as far in as you can get them, then put a washer underneath the bolt head and insert it through the middle of both bushings. Using at least one more washer (if not more), thread the nut on until it’s hard-tight. Having a friend hold the breaker bar on the bolt head, turn the nut slowly with the impact until the bushings line up straight (un-cocked) and start to move into the subframe. Then you have a little more freedom to go faster, but be careful to stop after the bushings are completely seated. I would also recommend freezing them like I did, to make the job easier. I don’t think heating the subframe is necessary *or* safe if you use this method, as your hands are very close to the subframe at any given point. Plus, if the subframe were heated, you could simply tap them in like I did…


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## HybridAndy (Jul 26, 2004)

Glossy. I saw the pics of you burning the old bushings out on FA a while back but I haven't seen the installed pics yet. I'd ask how it rides but I'm guessing your not back together yet. I was considering just going with a set of the top and bottom collars eventually but I might consider this. I'd like to see how it works out for you.


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## zx300 (Oct 8, 2004)

nice jop
nice grage


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## brainscratch (Jun 7, 2004)

burning the bushings is the only way to go  lots of great pics, thanks for the info


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## kaptainkrollio (Jul 29, 2003)

Thats pretty good work.


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