# Need a little help with Random Misfire



## Icecreamassassin (May 14, 2012)

I have a 98 200sx 1.6 and I pulled out onto the highway and started to accelerate. The car stalled somewhat then the CEL flashed 3 times and then went solid. The car then acted normal up until you hit about 4k rpms. Then it starts to stumble and you can tell the engine is missing. Drove it the 15 miles home and parked it. Got in it this morning and drove it the 65 miles back to my house and the CEL was on and it would only miss at about 4k. Keep it under that and it was fine. Pulled the code at Advance auto and it was Cylinder no2 misfire. Drove it home the 10 miles and parked it to do some research. Took it back to town 10 miles and ran in the bank, came back out and the CEL was off. Still missing at around 4k. But no CEL. Got to the garage and it was a stored Cylinder no2 misfire code but I saw nothing wrong with cylinder no2 at all. My timing chain is rattling a little bit (252k on the clock) but I wouldn't think that would be just one cylinder. I could be wrong seeing as I'm still new to Nissan's. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm doing a tune up again on it tomorrow, Cap, rotor, wires and plugs to see if that takes care of it. Anything else I could look for by chance?


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## jon31289 (Apr 19, 2012)

I had the same problem with my honda civic it was automatic..it gave me a misfire code also but it said multiple/random misfire but my ignition system was fine..ur catalytic converter must be clogging up that's was the problem with mine..u need to change it quick if that is the problem

Sent from my SCH-R720 using AutoGuide.com App


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I would do a little more diagnostic work before I changed a catalytic converter based solely on a #2 misfire! Do the tune-up and see what happens. Make sure you stick to genuine Nissan or NGK ignition parts! Aftermarket plugs and distributor caps seem to be problematic or not last long on most Asian makes, like Nissan & Toyota. Usually when you get the flashing MIL, it's often ignition related.


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## Icecreamassassin (May 14, 2012)

Yeah I think I'll pass on the Converter for now. Like I said though, a good tune up today for it. And on the plus side, I don't think it will hurt it at all. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Open your distributor cap. Rotor may be loose. If it is you might damage you igniter, if so, you will need to replace the whole distributor. It might be as simple as tightening a screw.


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## Icecreamassassin (May 14, 2012)

Jopet you are right. It was the rotor button. Tbe screw had loosened up letting tbe rotor slip. Chased the threads and put tbe new one on with a drop of locktite for good measure. Runs like it should now.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

That little rotor button screw has bitten me in the ass twice.
First time, I thought I blew a timing chain and got a $225 tow back to the house, stood around looking stupid for awhile, decided to have a look to find what I could find, and there it was laying inside the bottom of cap.
The 2nd time (you'd figure I would've been smarter...but NOOOO), I got a friend to tow me for what seemed like a hundred miles (maybe 20), only to remember that damn screw when I got about 1/2 mile from my house.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

Glad to be of help. As mentioned by JDG there, this may happen again. Most will be successful with locktite. I was not, even thought I put permanent locktite. Had ruined a couple of distributors because of this.
My fix was to replace my timing chain assembly. I figure that with the loose chain, the vibrations coming from the sprockets to the cams to the distributor was loosening that dang screw.
Now you don't have to do the same as what I did. But you have to inspect the sprockets and the upper timing tensioner if you have "chain slap" or rattle in your timing chains.


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## punchodex (Feb 21, 2011)

I know this thread is old, but I had a similar issue on cylinder 4 misfire P0304 code and it wasn't worth starting a new thread since the symptoms were similar. Soon-to-be-ex-wife's car, but we still help each other out. The car idled low and had missed at all RPMs and lacked power, stalled with a/c on. I know the engine has low compression overall (below book specs minimum but none wildly different from others and it still runs and doesn't burn much oil) but it runs fine and has plenty of power. I changed the plugs b/c they had a few miles and I had some new NGK wires I was going to install anyway. No difference. Instead of leaving it with me for a few more hours, she drove it a few more days with a CEL from the misfire. She took it to a shop (who charged an arm and leg), but it turned out the #4 injector died. I didn't get that far into it yet, but I'm sure I would have eventually. Car has 230k miles now. I had the injectors sent off for cleaning about 4 years ago and didn't suspect them as a major culprit.


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## Jopet (Aug 10, 2009)

The most simple way to find out if its no-spark causing the mis-fire is to get a timing light and attach it to the plug wires one at a time. You'll see which # is not giving out spark, if the problem is spark. 
To test injectors, you can get a loooong screw driver and put the metal end to the injector and the handle to your ear. You should be able to hear "clicking" if the injector is working.
My personal experience had me replace the distributor due to failure of the igniter (which is inside the distributor). One symptom of this is that the mis-fire will only occur when the engine is in normal working temp.


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