# Help me fix 1988 nissan sentra



## Guest (Feb 26, 2003)

This is my question. I just bought this nissan sentra 1988 with about 155k miles. It ran great for the first week until two days ago it started with a problem. The engine looses power completely and wont go past 2500 + RPMs. it wont stall at all, it just buckles and jerks when accelerate trying to pass 2000 + rpms. aftet a few minutes of sitting on idle it rans good again. this happens intermittently. any ideas where i can start? so far i have replaced cap and rotor. next thing is going to be the fuel filter.


I suspect a carburator problem.


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## stealthb14 (Apr 30, 2002)

I'm going to move this to the B11/B12 Forum. We've got some guys up there who really know their stuff.


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

Check the plugs. Worn out plugs will kill an engine and they never last as long as the manufacturer says they will. Also check:

- Timing
- Air/Fuel Filter
- All vacuum hoses for leaks
- Float bowl glass to make sure you have proper fuel level in bowl
- Fuel pump...if it's leaking gas you know you have a blown 
diaphram

Failing all that, start pricing a rebuilt carb.


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## Guest (Feb 26, 2003)

i dont think the spark plugs would cause an intermitten issue like this. highly doubt it. 


oh i just rechecked and its fuel injected. looked like carb until i opened her up.


thanks
keep it coming guys

need to fix it today


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## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

umm....I don't think any '88s had carbs, check the engine code to make sure it is not a TBI E16i.


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## RiceBox (Apr 30, 2002)

DON'T DOUBLE POST!!! When you post something in one forum don't post it again in another.


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## Guest (Feb 26, 2003)

sorry about that.


my post were moved so it actually duplicated more.


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

So, uh, you have TBI. Fuel pump should be in the gas tank....more fun stuff to check out.

So did you pull the plugs and look at them? Ya know a set of single electrode Bosch Platinums is only about $10 (1.99 ea + tax)


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## AVERAGE (Aug 9, 2002)

Float bowl glass to make sure you have proper fuel level in bowl how could i check this it out? im having some issues wiht my b12 as well. i ve also been told to lean towards a spark issue


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## nastynissan (Jan 26, 2003)

Run a Fuel Pressure test before replacing injector or ECU. If that checks out. Then have them test the injector, and run the ECU codes. BTW have you checked the timing belt???? Ive seen several of the E16i slip 1 or 2 notches. Maybe Distributor came loose and turned??? 

Alittle late but SORRY... I did a double/triple post when I started here.


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

The float bowl glass is on the passenger side of the carb, it's about 1/2" in diameter and has a little white dot in the middle. If you've never checked it, it is probably covered with grime. Clean it off, and take a look. At idle the fuel level should be as high as the white dot....basically in the middle of the glass.

At the point when spark plugs completely crap out on you, you will lose any acceleration power, this may go away as they get hot, it may not. Manufacturers say to run plugs for 3 years...total crap...change them every year...even if they look good.


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## Guest (Feb 27, 2003)

I took it back from the mechanic because they couldnt figuere it out. They were going to get me the ECU without them knowing for sure. now that cost too much to just throw the money until the problem is found $


I will do what you guys suggested.

tanks


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## Guest (Feb 27, 2003)

Myetball said:


> *So, uh, you have TBI. Fuel pump should be in the gas tank....more fun stuff to check out.
> 
> So did you pull the plugs and look at them? Ya know a set of single electrode Bosch Platinums is only about $10 (1.99 ea + tax) *


yes i did pull one of the plugs. they looked pretty old. the base ring was dark and had small lines - patterns. I'm going to pull all the plugs and give a better description when i get back from work today (going to borrow someone elses car). and check the timing.

this could tell us if the car was running lean or rich before it died.



whats a good way to test for fuel pressure, for spark, and how do you check the timing? whats the base timing for these cars?


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## Guest (Feb 27, 2003)

nastynissan said:


> *Run a Fuel Pressure test before replacing injector or ECU. If that checks out. Then have them test the injector, and run the ECU codes. BTW have you checked the timing belt???? Ive seen several of the E16i slip 1 or 2 notches. Maybe Distributor came loose and turned???
> 
> Alittle late but SORRY... I did a double/triple post when I started here. *



how or who test this type of injector? and how do you pull codes from this ECU? also the weird part is the car doesnt show an engine light yet. it should had at this point.

i have not checked the timing belt. you think is slipping? hmm maybe...
but also if it did slip once. it would always run like crap because the timing wont slip back to its normal position. 
?


im going to check the timing anywayz, as soon as i found out where it supposed to bet set at.


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

Okay, here's some info from the Haynes manual, recommend you invest the money and get one....Haynes number 72050:

Engine Lacks Power:
- Incorrect Ignition Timing ('87-'90 7 DBTDC) You need a timing light...and some white out would help to hilite the timing marks.
- Excessive play in distributor shaft
- Worn rotor, cap, plug wires, or faulty coil
- Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (NGK BCPR5ES-11 
gap = 0.043)
- Problem with fuel injection system
- Plugged air filter
- Brakes binding (doubtful)
- Fuel filter clogged/impurities in fuel system
- Emissions system malfunction
- Low/uneven cylinder pressure
- Obstructed exhaust system (usually a clogged catalytic converter...check to make sure you have plenty of flow out the back)

I'm still leaning towards bad plugs...I've seen and driven cars that ended up stranded because of worn plugs that really didn't look that bad when they were pulled out....a new set and they ran like a champ. Symptoms include missing at cold idle, okay low speed power but total lack of mid and top end acceleration...basically, you hit the gas and the car stumbles and spits and sputters.

A bit of advise...stick with NGK or Bosch. Autolite, Champion, Motorcraft and AC Delco (AC as in Aurthur Champion) are all crap in my book...for what it's worth

Let us know what it turns out to be.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

I have had problems with my 89 like this, it would seem fine for about a year after I would do a complete tune up and within just a few short days would run terrible, lacking power and acceleration, then one day it would just not start.
I of course cured this problem by doing a complete tune up every spring...no excuses and I have not had a problem since.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

Myetball said:


> *Okay, here's some info from the Haynes manual, recommend you invest the money and get one....Haynes number 72050:
> 
> Engine Lacks Power:
> - Incorrect Ignition Timing ('87-'90 7 DBTDC) You need a timing light...and some white out would help to hilite the timing marks.
> ...


wooho that was a long reply. I really appreciate you taking the time to writte all this. 

you guys have been great help. im sure i will find what the problem is one way or another. 

the plugs are going to be replaced next thats for sure. i already bought them but the dude at autozone gave me the wrong ones (wayy too big).  

to give you guys a better description of the problem here it goes: One day driving to work on the highway doing about 70 mph when all of the sudden it felt as the fuel cut out. it keep slowing down more and more until i pulled over. i noticed that the car would idle fine but it wouldnt rev past 2500 rpms +. as soon as it past that mark it would just hasitate and eventually try to die. then if i let go the pedal it would come back to life and stay on good idle. i let the car sit on idle for about 10 minutes while inspecting under the hood. then i got back on and it ran fine until another few more miles. now with all the stuff ive tried the car is now much worse. it does all the time and i cant go past 45 mph.


how do you check the timing on these cars? is there some sorta of spout connector that needs to be unpluged in order to get the right base timing?
7 degrees is the base timing?


i will let you guys know how it turns out as soon as there is time to work on it. is too cold and it doesnt stop raining 
 


thanks


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## Myetball (Dec 15, 2002)

What exactly have you done so far? 

Don't focus too much on timing. If you jumped a tooth or timing was way off, the car would not idle normally.

Focus on getting proper spark and fuel.

Spark = plugs and/or wires
Fuel = Filter, Fuel pump (doubt your injector all of a sudden decided to die)

If it's freezing where you are, try some Isopropyl Alchohol deicing stuff in the tank...stay away from the Ethynol/Methynol based stuff, can damage fuel system components.


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## Guest (Feb 28, 2003)

dude it must be your spark plugs

i've had the same problem and my car wouldnt rev over 3000 rpm(88 b-12 hatchback) thah same night i opened my carb and took a complete inspection, ... couldnt find nothing wrong. I asambelled it back together and started it up again, this time my car would run for good for couple of mins and than the same thing occured. I went to bed that night trubled and pissed off. In the morning i called my best buddie which is a nissan freak to but hes into Z's. the first thing he told me check and change your spark plugs, so I did and dude let me tell you my car's been runnin awsome ever since than. Now am acctually thinking of changing my wires to 8.5 mm. Try replacing your sparks and if that dont work try the rotator and wires. Good luck !!!!

Does your sentra do this


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## nastynissan (Jan 26, 2003)

anando** said:


> *. Now am acctually thinking of changing my wires to 8.5 mm.
> *


Dude the stock Nissan Wires are Great unless your running LOTSA POWER.. There are many post on this.. Now if they ned replaced Fine. But theres no way Id spend the extra for 8.5's. Their not going to make a difference. Especially if everything else is stock.


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

answer AFM !!!.... your airflow meter is going bad !!!.... you stuck until 2450rpm exactly and than goes like a fuel cut-off !?... if its the case dont search anymore... it is the air flow meter.... check for bad connection or check for a used one at your local junkyard... try it there if it doesnt work then it isnt the problem but im pretty sure that is !!


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## AVERAGE (Aug 9, 2002)

where is it mart?>


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## 88NissanB12 (Nov 5, 2002)

The air flow meter is located in the throttle body. Take the air cleaner housing and look down into the body. The afm is located in the 6 o clock position (looks like a screen wire). I think it comes off from the passenger side of the body.


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## Guest (Mar 1, 2003)

Crazy-Mart said:


> *answer AFM !!!.... your airflow meter is going bad !!!.... you stuck until 2450rpm exactly and than goes like a fuel cut-off !?... if its the case dont search anymore... it is the air flow meter.... check for bad connection or check for a used one at your local junkyard... try it there if it doesnt work then it isnt the problem but im pretty sure that is !!  *



i think thats the problem


i already replaced spark plugs last night and samething. it wont rev past 2000 + rpms.

fuel is there
spark is there
and i dont think the cat are clogged.


how do you take this apart to remove the AFM?


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

you got to get the air filter casing off the TBI... then unscrew the TPS and then the AFM....


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## Guest (Mar 1, 2003)

I will try that today


if the AFM is bad....
am i better off going to the yunkyard and pull one out. or get it new? any ideas on how much these parts cost


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

to much at the dealer i think last time i changed one of those the dealer would charge me 378$Can.... so it could be around 235$us.... go with junkwards !!... 50$...should be around that !


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Definately sounds like the AFM. It going bad is giving your ECU a wrong signal, and voila, you get fuel cut. I had a similar problem, but the wire connection was just loose.


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2003)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> *Definately sounds like the AFM. It going bad is giving your ECU a wrong signal, and voila, you get fuel cut. I had a similar problem, but the wire connection was just loose. *


which wire connection? was it inside or outside the AFM?


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## AVERAGE (Aug 9, 2002)

i hear tbi talk , what about the carb. what options do i have , im still having a stalling issue and the float seems to be fine.


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Outside the AFM. Right where the wires connect to the clip. They were pretty rough after my mom blew 3 radiator hoses and overheated the car 5 times within 2 weeks. It reeked havoc on all of my wiring connections, and my alternator. You know alternators don't last too long bathing in coolant??
As for the carb, I don't know shit about carbs. Sorry I can't help you.


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## Crazy-Mart (Jul 14, 2002)

it is outside the AFM.... large black socket with a rectangular clip... i think those have 6 or 8 pins in it....


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