# 98 Altima EVAP issues, with P codes



## bluestraw44 (Mar 12, 2005)

Hi all,

A scan of the postings in this forum helped some, but I'm wondering if anyone else has some suggestions.

Check engine soon light is on. Autozone came up with three codes:
P0450 - EVAP system pressue sensor
P1444 - Purge volume control valve
P1446 - Vacuum cut valve

The second two codes I found the explaination from this web site:
http://www.batauto.com/

The only noticeable problem is that when filling the tank with gas, the pump automatically shuts off making it difficult to fill. I read on a different forum that someone had the same problem and replaced the "evaporative canister valve".

Any hints or suggestions on what parts to replace/buy and where to find them other than the dealer is most apprecitated.

Thanks,
Fred


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## ni66anorm (Mar 17, 2005)

I had a similar problem like this one b4 and i realized my charcoal canister was cracked. So that meant i had a leak in my evap system. This can also eat up all ur gas, causing ur car to increase gas mileage, not sure what's really ur problem though but it can be. So i just replaced mine and it worked beautifully. You can take a look at ur canister because it's located underneath the trunk like a squarish box shaped. Or it can just be a leak somewhere else in the evap line.


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## punkopoulos (Jul 20, 2004)

ni66anorm said:


> I had a similar problem like this one b4 and i realized my charcoal canister was cracked. So that meant i had a leak in my evap system. This can also eat up all ur gas, causing ur car to increase gas mileage, not sure what's really ur problem though but it can be. So i just replaced mine and it worked beautifully. You can take a look at ur canister because it's located underneath the trunk like a squarish box shaped. Or it can just be a leak somewhere else in the evap line.



My service engine light came on and my brother diagnosed it and the code P1444 - Purge volume control valve came up. I went to the shop and they were trying to tell me the gas station I went to had shit pumps and to try another gas station, but I knew something was wrong with the car since the light was on. Anyways, the valve was stuck and that's why I couldn't pump gas, it kept sensing the fumes of the gas that mt car thought the tank was full.. went for about $240 with labor and parts. Good luck/


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## Pony-Express (Apr 1, 2004)

Well I have the same issue, how much is the part, and where did you get it from . Is it a dealer only part?

John


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## bluestraw44 (Mar 12, 2005)

Here's an update:

I took out the solenoid valve from the canister. I applied 12 volts to the terminals and heard the "pop" sound that indicates the valve either closed or opened. I then switched polarity to see if the valve went the other way. It didn't seem to. I did this several times. I had trouble determining if the valve was opening and/or closing correctly - but at least I knew that by applying voltage something was happening, so that I thought it was a good sign.

Then I unbolted the canister from the car. One of the bolts (out of 3) broke (rusted). Disconnecting the tubing going to the canister caused some hissing and noise. I looked into the canister and saw the green foam like "filter". I allowed the canister to air out a little. 

I put everything back together and the next time I got gas, the pump didn't stop. It seems to be working fine now without replacing anything.

I broke down and bought a code scanner so that I could clear the codes so the check engine soon light would go out. I hooked up the scanner, hit the link button and it did its thing and it didn't find any codes. I disconnected the scanner and started the car and the light didn't return.

So, for now, the car appears to be fixed without fixing it!

Thanks for all of your comments and good luck with your own cars.


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## punkopoulos (Jul 20, 2004)

No, I don't think it's a dealer only part. I went to the shop I go to for everything. Nissan would've charged tons more, I'm sure.



bluestraw44 said:


> Here's an update:
> 
> I took out the solenoid valve from the canister. I applied 12 volts to the terminals and heard the "pop" sound that indicates the valve either closed or opened. I then switched polarity to see if the valve went the other way. It didn't seem to. I did this several times. I had trouble determining if the valve was opening and/or closing correctly - but at least I knew that by applying voltage something was happening, so that I thought it was a good sign.
> 
> ...


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## bluestraw44 (Mar 12, 2005)

Guess what - the light is back on, so I didn't fix it permanently. I'll use my code scanner to see if the same codes come up again.

Will keep you posted!


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