# Replacing front driver side drive axle



## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Anyone have any ideas on how hard it is to replace on a 93' Nissan Sentra, 5-speed, Manual. Don't think that it has ABS, so just plain repair. 

My Uncle and my future Father-in-law are pretty well mechanically inclined. Do you think that we could do it? Or is it safer to go to a mechanic and pay $150? Any ideas? Thanks everyone.

Taylor


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## fezman1337 (Mar 21, 2011)

I replaced the driver side axle on my sentra but it is an automatic. Im not sure what the difference is between the manual and the auto but I would guess its similar. There is a 1-1/4" nut holding the rotor to the axle. Take that off and move the rotor to the side a little. I think you have to remove the control arm out of the way but not entirely sure since I did this about a year or so ago. Anyways after moving the rotor to the side, I got a pry bar and placed it on the tranny side of the axle and pry'd it out. It takes a little bit of power behind to move it out. After that just slide the old one in and put all the stuff together. It took me about 1-1.5 hrs to do with my friend helping and a little help from his dad. I hope this is right and if not I hope someone corrects me.

Good luck!


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

So it's pretty straight forward then would you say? With the help of my Uncle and father-in-law, if we could do that, it would save me around 100 dollars. As well learning how to do it would definitely make things worth while. Is their any unique tools that I would have to use when taking out the old one and installing a new one? Or is it pretty straight forward in that aspect to? 

Anymore help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks fezman.

Taylor


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## fezman1337 (Mar 21, 2011)

It's pretty straight forward. Removing the axle from the trans will take some muscle behind so don't be afraid. I found this video on youtube and its pretty much what I did. It's a little corny but it works. 




Hope that helps!

I found this other one which looks better


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## techtalk (Jun 8, 2011)

taylor,

It's a pretty mechanically demanding job. I've worked on Nissans for quite a few years now and it still takes me over 6 hours to accomplish the task. With that disclaimer issued, here's the procedure:

**Useful diagrams**
1993 Sentra diagram

1) Disconnect the negative and positive battery cables.

2) Remove the battery and battery bracket.

3) Remove the air duct, air cleaner box and the air flow meter.

4) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it safely.

5) Drain the transaxle oil.

6) Withdraw the halfshafts from the transaxle.

Caution: When removing the halfshafts, be careful not to damage the lip of the oil seal. After shafts are removed, insert a steel bar or wooden dowel of a suitable diameter to prevent the side gears from rotating and falling into the differential case.

7) Remove the wheel well protector(s).

8) Separate the control rod and support rod from the transaxle.

9) Remove the engine gusset securing bolt and the engine mounting.

10) Remove the clutch control cable from the operating lever.

11) Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle.

12) Disconnect the wires from the reverse (back-up), neutral and overdrive switches. Disconnect the speed and position switch sensors from the transaxle also, if so equipped.

Caution: Most of the transaxle mounting bolts are different lengths. Tagging the bolts upon removal will facilitate proper tightening during installation.

13) Remove the bolts attaching the transaxle to the engine.

14) Carefully lower the transaxle down and away from the engine.

15) Support the engine by placing a jack under the oil pan, with a wooden block placed between the jack and pan for protection.

16) Support the transaxle with a jack.

--INSTALLATION--
17) Before installing, clean the mating surfaces on the engine rear plate and clutch housing.

18) Apply a light coat of a lithium-based grease to the spline parts of the clutch disc and the transaxle input shaft.

19) Raise the transaxle into place and bolt it to the engine. Install the engine mounts. Torque the transaxle mounting bolts.

20) Remove the engine mounting securing bolts.

21) Connect the speedometer cable to the transaxle.

22) Connect the clutch cable to the operating lever.

23) Connect the control and the support rods to the transaxle.

24) Install the wheel well protectors.

25) Install the halfshafts.

26) Lower the vehicle.

27) Install the air duct, air cleaner box and the air flow meter.

28) Install the battery and battery bracket.

29) Connect the battery cables.

30) Remove the filler plug and fill the transaxle to the proper level. Fill to the level of the plug hole. Apply a thread sealant to the threads of the filler plug and install the plug in the transaxle case.

As you can tell, it's a pretty intensive job :balls:


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

He said "axle," not transmission...


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

If it's not making a knocking noise is it worth replacing? Or is it better to check out the condition of the axle, replace the boot, re-grease and just move on with it? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Taylor


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Remanufactured axles are pretty inexpensive. With them, you are getting two new boots and two new joints. If you have a lot of miles on an axle, there is going to be wear in the races. To me, it's not worth getting grease all over the place and repacking bearings and races that have significant wear to them, likely. For me, it's a much better option to replace the axle assy.


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