# Fiberglassing tips



## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

Was wondering how I could make a mold of a few parts on my car without destroying the originals. I've done a bit of fiberglassing now, and am fairly confident using it, but i wanna start making some masks for my center trunk piece, lights, some interior etc, only I want to do it without destroying the original parts. Whats the best way to accomplish this?


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## G_Funk013 (Jul 9, 2002)

I dont know how to use fiberglass, but you could always go to a junk yard and try to find the part your going to fiberglass. That way you wont mess up your original.

Ive also read about people making clay molds first. Then using the mold to make the fiberglass piece.


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## MP2050 (May 1, 2002)

G_Funk013 said:


> *I dont know how to use fiberglass, but you could always go to a junk yard and try to find the part your going to fiberglass. That way you wont mess up your original.
> 
> Ive also read about people making clay molds first. Then using the mold to make the fiberglass piece. *


U Took the words off my keyboard.....


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

hmm I could probably wrap the original in saran wrap and heat shringit tight, then make a plaster of paris mold to lay the glass in, since plaster of paris breaks down in water when im done i could just dissolve the plaster....

Theres gotta be an easier way though, maybe covering the piece in tin foil and glassing over that... now that I think of it I think I read somewhere that resin wont stick to vaseline either, i could coat the piece to be molded in vaseline before apply resin and lay the cloth over it....


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## MakoMeat (Dec 4, 2002)

NissanTuner said:


> *Was wondering how I could make a mold of a few parts on my car without destroying the originals. I've done a bit of fiberglassing now, and am fairly confident using it, but i wanna start making some masks for my center trunk piece, lights, some interior etc, only I want to do it without destroying the original parts. Whats the best way to accomplish this? *


From what I understand is that you want to make a reverse mold of something on you car so you can make a bunch of copies right? 

I used to work with fiberglass working on boats. You need to a mold release wax (I use the Meguire’s brand), you can usually find it a t boating hardware place. Don’t try this with regular car wax. Then carefully place the wet mat on your part. Just make sure that you don’t go over the edges, otherwise the original will not come out.
Hope this helps


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

it does =) thanks a bunch, whats the retail value of this wax btw? it pretty cheap?


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## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

another way is possibly wrapping them with at least 3 layers of normal masking tape. the resin wont eat through the tape, and make sure you use vasoline or any type or wax over the tape so it can slide off easily. or you could just use the mold release wax.


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## Evolution-Autodesign (Dec 9, 2002)

Tape, vaseline, foil, they all work. But for what you're doing, tape and vaseline will work better since the fiberglass needs to fit perfectly up against the light. Foil would result in wrinkles. 

I'm using a combo of all 3 things right now. I'm rebuilding the stereo in my Maxima, and the entire trunk is being fiberglassed.



NissanTuner said:


> *Was wondering how I could make a mold of a few parts on my car without destroying the originals. I've done a bit of fiberglassing now, and am fairly confident using it, but i wanna start making some masks for my center trunk piece, lights, some interior etc, only I want to do it without destroying the original parts. Whats the best way to accomplish this? *


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## nstalr01 (Jul 21, 2002)

the results i have ad 'glassing was using duct tape. fiberglass wont stick to it and it forms really well. i love to use fiberglass. most evreything i do stereo wise is 'glass


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

yup i have a gallon of resin, about 50 bucks in fiberglass mat and cloth, about 26 feet of 60/40 stretch fleece, and some lumber, its all going into my trunk for a custom sound enclosure, been spending the last few weeks building risers to layer the glass onto, imma have a curvy smooth fiberglass trunk that seats 4 12 inch Rockford Fosgate HX 2's and 2 800 watt Rockford Fosgate amps... can hardly wait till the payoff day comes and i can honestly say im finished with it.

P.S. I love tax refund days!


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

ur system sounds nice...
Why not try PLeXiGLaSs?? (Acrylic)
If I want to make a reverse mold, I get a piece of Plexiglass and a heat gun, and apply enough heat to get the acrylic soft and its really easy to bend and mold. After a few minutes it dries and hardens up really strong, if you mess up, just re-heat it.


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## MakoMeat (Dec 4, 2002)

NissanTuner said:


> *it does =) thanks a bunch, whats the retail value of this wax btw? it pretty cheap? *


the stuff is about $14-$15 per 12 oz can. You can probably prick it up in Avila or Morro, from where you are.

Looks like you have a pretty cool project in mind. As a, suggestion maybe use balsa wood to make your sound enclosure/framing then glass it. Will make for a much lighter box and still be vert stong.


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

> As a, suggestion maybe use balsa wood to make your sound enclosure/framing then glass it. Will make for a much lighter box and still be vert stong


 WHaaaa? Balsa wood to make a sound enclosure?

The wood is so thin and fragile, it would cause horrible vibrations and would flex alot. Thank God to the guys in the Audio forum, FLEX is bad, and with Balsa wood, it would flex alot.

Plus isnt that wood so fragile, you can poke a hole in it with your finger? Maybe I'm thinking of teh wrong blasa wood, like the really thin stuff you can use to build model airplanes... but damn. Either type of Balsa, cant you scrath it really easily with just your finger nail?

If you go wood, get about 3/4" MDF or something.. not balsa wood

Please correct me if im wrong.. i've never used the really thick stuff, but it doesnt sound like a good idea


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## MakoMeat (Dec 4, 2002)

PrOxLaMuS© said:


> *WHaaaa? Balsa wood to make a sound enclosure?
> 
> The wood is so thin and fragile, it would cause horrible vibrations and would flex alot. Thank God to the guys in the Audio forum, FLEX is bad, and with Balsa wood, it would flex alot.
> 
> ...


Well, ummm… yes and no. 

Thin Balsa wood (like those toy gliders) by its self would flex, yes.... but if someone is going thru the time and expense of fiber glassing wood pieces together, I believe glassing balsa wood is stronger and much lighter than most any stuff out there. As an experiment, I bet if you took several sheets of ¼” balsa then glued (2 part epoxy) them together, cross grain at a thickness of lets say ½ to ¾” and add a layer of fiber matting around, it will be lighter and stronger than press board or plywood of the same thickness.

I don’t know sound systems or what the requirements are, but have done a lot of ‘glassing… mostly boats. 

Sometimes its fun to think outside of the box.


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

Balsa is a good recommendation for this kind of project, however the way my enclosure is designed I will be able to rip the wood molding out after the fiberglass has set from the trunk access in the back seat, so weight and strength isnt that important. The fiberglass will be more than strong enough to support itself without the molding once its hardened, besides I need to have enough room in my trunk for the new air strut compressor and auxilliary tank going into my car once i get my tax refund =). I found a guy who will give me an adjustable air ride via a compartment console at cost, which will be roughly 1.2 grand or a little less than half my tax refund. Considering most air bag systems run 2-3 grand, this is a steal. His dad builds compressors for a living and he has the hookup for air struts for our cars >


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

oohh.. your gonna Fiberglass the Balsa wood.. ha Sorry, thought you just meant use balsa and thats it... i swear im retated

But what do you need for Fiberglass? Cause im going out tomarrow to get some... here it what I could piece together. What else would I need???
1. Fiberglass Cloth
2. Fiberglass Resin
3. Fiberglass Liquid hardener for the resin???


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

well fiberglass cloth has a uniform weave, its used for shaped areas, whereas fiberglass mat is stiffer, and has a tangled weave, used for flat surfaces and small curves. Most large containers of fiberglass resin come with 2 tubes of mekp hardener under the plastic cap that covers the top of the container, but check to make sure before you purchase it, because fiberglass hardener is a must. Youll need some type of wood to build molds unless youre making a direct fitment of a stock part (like my tails for example), and youll need a whole armada of disposable nylon brushes, disposable containers to mix the hardener and resin into, and latex gloves come in handy, as fiberglass resin on your hands will not wash off, more like wear off with time. Those are the basics there, each package of fiberglass mat/cloth is 8 square feet unless you get quick fix patches for dents and dings. you can get creative from there once youre a bit more experienced using lexan etc as well.


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

well.. i am experienced with LeXan  (Lexan/plexiglass/acrylic) but surprisingly never touched fiberglass.
Now that i know how to remove the tail-light lense.. I will be building my own set of tails for my B13 and sidemarkers and I really want to build a custom box for my Subs .....
Thats why I'm trying fiberglass.. to see if its easier than Acrylic


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