# New Owner - 1980 280ZX



## ak96ss (May 15, 2005)

As the title suggests, I am the proud new owner of a 1980 280ZX. I picked it up this evening and towed it home. The motor will not turn over, it makes a lovely loud clunk when the starter engages, and stops right there.

I can honestly say I know next to nothing about these cars. Is there a primer of any sort online that I can peruse to learn more, especially about engine designations and such?

My prior experience is all with American V8s and German 4-cylinders - my other cars are a 1996 Impala SS and a 1991 BMW 318is, both fun to drive, each in their own realm. I've always wanted one of these, though, so I'm quite happy. I'd be happier if it ran, but that can come later...

I am fairly certain I'll need to pull the motor out - she was leaking like a sieve from, I believe, the front oil pan seal when it came down off the trailer, and, as I said, won't even crank around.

How is availability of parts for these motors? What about whole motors - anyone out there sell rebuilt motors? I have a catalog coming from VictoriaBritish.com, which I am anxiously awaiting, and I will hit the stores tomorrow to see what repair manual I can find for it, but, as I said, I know very little about these things.

The body of the car appears very solid, except for the spare tire well, which looks like it will give way with a firm push. I will also need to have the left rear quarter panel repaired, it took a fairly solid hit there. Other than that, there are a few small spots of rust, but overall it's pretty solid. No stereo or faceplate where the stereo used to be, and the seats, particularly the driver's seat, need to be renewed and recovered.

There's more, of course, there always is, but I can't wait to dig in!


John in MD - 1980 280ZX


----------



## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

Sounds like the starter has shot crap, or the battery is low. Try jumping it. If that doesnt work the starter is probably faulty.


----------



## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Try turning the motor by hand, placing the right size socket over the crank nut and using a breaker bar. Should turn fairly easily. If it does not, even with a good amount of force, there are other possibilities. I don't know if the car is a 5-speed, but it's possible the pressure plate came apart. I've seen it on more than a couple cars, makes every one who deals with it think the engine is seized. I'd go with Asleeps assumption at this point, but usually a nice loud thunk from a starter means force is being applied but something is stopping the motor from turning.


----------



## ak96ss (May 15, 2005)

That's today's project, see if I can turn the motor by hand.

It doesn't sound like it's the starter, but I'm also going to throw the battery on the charger and make sure I'm getting full power out of it.

It is a five-speed, thanks for the tip on the pressure plate. Depending on whether the motor turns by hand or not, I'll look into that.


Thanks!






Zen31ZR said:


> Try turning the motor by hand, placing the right size socket over the crank nut and using a breaker bar. Should turn fairly easily. If it does not, even with a good amount of force, there are other possibilities. I don't know if the car is a 5-speed, but it's possible the pressure plate came apart. I've seen it on more than a couple cars, makes every one who deals with it think the engine is seized. I'd go with Asleeps assumption at this point, but usually a nice loud thunk from a starter means force is being applied but something is stopping the motor from turning.


----------



## ak96ss (May 15, 2005)

*Update: Engine is broke (That's a technical term). (LONG)*

OK, after waiting for the time and a day when it wasn't raining outside, the scoop is:

The motor will only turn about 45 degrees - there is a metallic clunk from, it seems, the #1 cylinder and the motor STOPS. I can then turn it back the other way, where I hear another clunk and, again, the motor stops turning entirely. I can go back and forth, but it won't turn any further than that in either direction.

Seems like it's a broken rod to me. There is no external evidence that it busted, as I would've expected, but there is definitely something in there that is jamming the rotating assembly.

So, I reckon my options are:

1) Buy a new motor. Honestly, I like this option. zcarparts.com has a 'new' rebuilt long block for $1795 with a 3 year, unlimited mileage warranty. Doesn't include the oil pan or valve cover.

2) Yank this motor, tear it down, see what the problem is, and fix it. This is obviously the cheaper option, at first, anyway. However, I am concerned that whatever is clunking around in there may have broken something else internally, and I may end up getting a new motor anyway. AFAIK, the engine was running when it stopped, so who knows what happened inside? Plus I'll have to clear out garage space for the disassembly (which I would have to do anyway, really). Once it is apart, I can assess the damage and go from there. I believe, however, that once I go through the effort of disassembling everything, determine what the problem is, have it fixed, and put it all back together, freshening what needs it as I go, that I'll be up to the cost of the new motor.

3) Yank the motor and go the V8 conversion route. Just a possibility, I'm exploring my options. Plus I have a friend trying to sell me a 404 he has sitting in his workshop... it'd be sweet, that much power with no weight, but I fear I would have to put in a roll cage to keep the car from twisting itself up into a pretzel on hard acceleration. Not to mention the new tranny, upgrade the diff.... I'd kinda prefer to keep the stock motor in it, but would not be against a more powerful version of it. That's the problem with option #1, I am stuck with standard power levels, although I'll have an engine warranty. FWIW.

4) Junk the car. Strip what I can out of it, sell it on eBay, and be done with it. This is a consideration as well. The driver's side rear quarter panel needs to be replaced, there is rust under the spare tire that will need to be fixed, and a few spots here and there of rust that goes through. Nothing horrible, the floor pan seems very solid as do most of the other body parts, but I'm looking at the availability of parts vs. the amount of money I realistically want to spend. I got the car for free, so I can turn a profit by stripping it and selling it off. However, I don't really want to do this. I'm not looking to make money, I'm looking for a fun car... well, at least as much fun as my BMW, anyway.

I figure I can put the new motor in and get the body fixed up for around 5-6k dollars, including new paint and the bevy of other repairs that are bound to crop up (steering rack boots are shot, differential is leaking, interior is livable but lots of parts need to be fixed/replaced).

Any thoughts on the matter? I haven't decided on any of these options yet, although I am leaning towards #1.


John in MD
1980 280ZX
1991 BMW 318is
1996 Chevrolet Impala SS




ak96ss said:


> That's today's project, see if I can turn the motor by hand.
> 
> It doesn't sound like it's the starter, but I'm also going to throw the battery on the charger and make sure I'm getting full power out of it.
> 
> ...


----------



## winstonsmith (Nov 10, 2004)

From one Z owner to another (I've had 2 of them) there is always way more rust on these cars than you think. Before you dive into the cost of engine work I would very HIGHLY suggest you pull up the carpet inside and double check that you actually have as more floorboard as you think. Look behind the bumpers, look everywhere on the car that metal exists that you can't readily see. You can make one of these cars rust just by looking at it funny. They're awesome cars but get ready for some hardcore body work. As for the spare tire well you may end up having to cut that out and have new metal welded in. Check the hatch floor good. You probably have a water leak around the hatch. Look under the hatch rubber for any rusted out metal too. Oh yeah, make certain you actually have solid frame rails too.


----------



## Zen31ZR (Mar 24, 2004)

Make sure the timing belt just hasn't jumped out of position. The motor might stop turning because the piston hits a valve and stops. Pull the valve cover and see where everything is. I wouldn't call a broken rod just yet, unless the engine was horribly abused I wouldn't call that very likely. Of course, anything is possible.


----------



## ak96ss (May 15, 2005)

Thanks - I've pulled all the carpet/pad out of the hatch area, and everything back there looks solid except for the spare tire well, a little around the driver's taillight, and where it got smacked in the driver's quarter panel. There is rust just in front of the driver's side rear wheel as well, but the frame rails look solid, as does the floor pan. I'll yank the seats and the front carpet next chance I get and take a look under there. There is also some around the base of the winshield, two spots smaller than a quarter, where it looks like they pried up on the windshield molding to remove it. Also a small spot under the hood, in the upper corner where the front fender bolts to the firewall area, and one small spot right around the fuel filler. Other than that  it all appears solid.

The car was originally from California (with CA emissions), only came here to Maryland in the last few years, so it doesn't appear to have rusted too badly, comparatively speaking. But after showing a body shop pics and receiving a rough guesstimate of $6500 to replace the quarter panel, repair the rust, and shoot paint, I'm balking a bit. Especially given the fact that it doesn't run. Damn. I may have to actually learn how to do some body work myself.

I reckon I'll just have to get it up on jack stands after I pull the interior and see where we are overall - if there is more serious rust than what I've found, I believe I may just part it out and move on.






winstonsmith said:


> From one Z owner to another (I've had 2 of them) there is always way more rust on these cars than you think. Before you dive into the cost of engine work I would very HIGHLY suggest you pull up the carpet inside and double check that you actually have as more floorboard as you think. Look behind the bumpers, look everywhere on the car that metal exists that you can't readily see. You can make one of these cars rust just by looking at it funny. They're awesome cars but get ready for some hardcore body work. As for the spare tire well you may end up having to cut that out and have new metal welded in. Check the hatch floor good. You probably have a water leak around the hatch. Look under the hatch rubber for any rusted out metal too. Oh yeah, make certain you actually have solid frame rails too.


----------



## ak96ss (May 15, 2005)

Good point - although I'm not quite sure how to do that, particularly since I can't get the motor to go all the way around.

I actually expected to see a broken rocker arm or something, but the only thing I noticed out of the ordinary when I pulled the valve cover last week was a rocker arm retaining spring out of position on the #4 cylinder - it had obviously been that way for a while...

I'll pull the valve cover again and see what I can see.




Zen31ZR said:


> Make sure the timing belt just hasn't jumped out of position. The motor might stop turning because the piston hits a valve and stops. Pull the valve cover and see where everything is. I wouldn't call a broken rod just yet, unless the engine was horribly abused I wouldn't call that very likely. Of course, anything is possible.


----------

