# sr20de(t) or ca18de(t)



## Guest (Feb 18, 2003)

so can anybody set me strait whats the better peformance engine to the swap on my 87 sentra. and why which 1 has more performance products. Please so 1 help Boost boy or hybird.


----------



## hybrid DET (Apr 15, 2002)

Honestly, I would lean towards the CA18DET for its bolt in capabilities. The SR20DET swap is a bit more involved having to fabricate the engine mounts. 

For performance parts, I believe that stateside the SR20 has the CA18 beat. It is the most popular engine that nissan offers right now and probably the only Nissan engine that you can walk into a rice shop and actually have a chance of them stocking parts for. However, I've been to Japan so I know that there is just as many performance upgrades available for the CA18DET. They are just harder to get. 

In the end it really doesnt matter. Big horsepower turbo set ups are usually built custom. You can pick your turbo and have a beautiful manifold welded up and there you go.


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I would go for the CA18DET. It can bolt in and is iron block. The SR is aluminum block. If you overheat the SR, you can be shit outta luck. I heard the CA is more reliable, and since it's iron block, can support more boost safer. IMO the CA can have better preformance, just the parts can be hard to find.


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

> For performance parts, I believe that stateside the SR20 has the CA18 beat.


 Hybrid is absolutely correct in the fact that the SR has a better support group than the CA18. The aftermarket is not in a CA18 owner's favor, but for standard replacement parts, stroll on down to your local nissan dealer and order parts for the 1988 nissan pulsar with 1.8 DOHC motor.


> so can anybody set me strait whats the better peformance engine to the swap on my 87 sentra.


 Cost-wise the CA18 would win hands down, unless you have access to someone that can help you with the SR's mount fabrication. I have done a study on SR20 powered vehicles against my own CA powered B12 sentras during their evolutions and the results were pretty amazing. A standard CA18DE in a B12 sentra against the standard SE-R or NX2000 with SR20 is an excellent battle and it will come down to the drivers and how hard they are willing to push their engines. In N/A form, my CA18DE powered sentra knocked off every SR20DE powered car (stock for stock) that I ever played with and even the SR guys were truly amazed. SR20 motors have a viscous LSD whereas the CA18's tranny has an open diff. The SR20's have rocker arms and the CA18 has a true cam to lifter set up (no rocker arms) which equals quieter valve train. The CA18 has a belt and the SR has a chain which equals the CA18 to be easier to service. The SR has more torque than a CA18 because of it's bigger bore and longer stroke, but not by too much. The SR has 140hp and the CA18 has 125hp and the torque is parted the same %age. From 1000rpm to 3500rpm, the SR works way harder than the CA18, but from 3000 to 7500 the CA is screaming wickedly and can keep going whereas the rocker arms will limit the SR to around 7200 (could be wrong) safely. Though the blocks of the SR's are of alloy content, they are pretty tough and can take a good doggin', but if you lean out the engine you risk a chance of destroying that alloy block and that's going to cost you. SR20DET's run anywhere between $1000-$2500 whereas the CA18DET costs anywhere between $500-$1500 depending on year of engine. The CA18 has proven to be more of a beast on the highway because of it's free-revvin characteristics whereas the SR powered cars always sounded like they were hampered by something (Everyone that I've raced or watch perform). For us FWD sentra owners, I'd recommend the CA18 because of what's available in the U.S. market as far as standard parts. Trannies is the big issue here! The SR20's trannies "suck blowfish guts" and I don't know what nissan was thinking when they designed them. This was nissan's "Broke" era and it showed. SR20 owners are limited to that particular tranny whereas CA18 owners have multiple trannies they can hybrid "As I have ". CA18's share the same standard nissan oil filter as the maxima, stanza, GA16I, GA16DE and possibly more whereas the SR is a one of a kind deal. It will all come down to what you want as both engines are marvelous in their own reicht and should only be compared for budget reasons. If you want big power and got big money, get the SR20. If you want big power and limited bread, but are willing ot build at it, go with the CA18. the special trannies I'm referring to are experiments I've come across that will allow CA18 owners to have a helical LSD and trannies are very hard to hurt. No 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd gear pop-out here. In the 7 years I've been experimenting with CA18 and their trannies, I've never lost a tranny because of gears popping out, etc, etc. For a wicked-nastyb beat-up anything on the street combo I recommend a CA18DET and CA16DE tranny out of the 87 pulsar SE is the "Lick". Gearing is key here! This is the way that the CA18DET owner can bridge that 30hp difference between the SR20 (our Secret). Why do you guys think I can make supra owners and the likes scratch their heads when they find themselves not being able to close the gap between them and my crappy sentra. But I do caution you, once you reach speeds of over 150mph, do not try perform slalom actions or you will die. Yes, you will be able to reach these speeds and more without a whole lot of effort. The actual swaps for both the SR20 and CA18 is a bee-with an itch, but the CA18 into a b12 is mechanical bolt-in. The SR (Like hybrid said) is more of a cut and weld deal that is very do-able, but if your ass don't have no wiring skills, you are on your own. I can only do it for you! I cannot and will not try and help anyone on something they started because I don't want to be responsible for your ECU popping transistors and burning up 

I have written this piece to the best of my knowledge and I will not write it again (takes too long). For anyone else coming into the forums and wanting information on the pros and cons of such swaps, you guys please refer them to the archives and not to me or hybrid unless they want me to perform the swap for them that is the only way I can give you what I know and what worked for me. Good Luck to all and to all "Up Yours" Damn I got crazy jokes this evening............


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Man, I can't believe I read that, let alone you typed it. Well said. 
I am going to do a CA swap into a B12 shortly. As for wiring, break it down into sections, label all the wires, put the whole thing together, and your good to go. As for 150mph+ in a B12, if you want to do that, you had better be a skilled driver with big balls, and some sort of rear wing for added stability at high speeds. The SR is a great motor, but I prefer iron block motors. They tend to be more reliable. Since B12's are so simple compared to most cars, I think a motor swap in them will be the best investment and overall, easier. It doesn't take much to make a B12 own almost anything on the street. Plus with added power, you can actually use all 4 seating positions at once. I always limited me and another person in my car.


----------



## Guest (Feb 20, 2003)

hey i went to a shop called CAR-TUNE and i asked if the can do a swap on my car they told me that they can put in the GTI-R engine into my sentra running out the door for 3,800 which less the a shoped called sleeper motorsports which will do it for 5,000 i really considering the ca18de-t but theres no swap that will do that and i have verry little knowleged of mechanic work so im pretty much set on the SR20DET unless theres anybody that u guys know out here in southern cali. im pretty much 2 hrs away from hybird.


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

The Sr20 hype is what's in! The CA18DET is an exotic engine to most shops and they don't want to be responsible for something they know nothing about. The gti-r swap for $3800 isn't bad at all as long as you're going to drop your car as is and come back to a car with a Gti-R engine which to me my friend sounds like a scam. You will pay more than that, trust me! Ask hybrid if he wants to make your money! Be prepared to spend anywhere between $3000-$6000 easily. 6k with me will get you about 350whp and all the bells and whistles, but that's just me!


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Explain 'GTi-R' isn't that the designatin for the SR20DET and AWD?


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Yes it is.........


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

Like I said, unless that 3800 is for parts and labor, you are at looking at about 5-6 grand before it's all said and done for a measely 235ish hp? I don't think so.....Regular SR20DET swaps are waay too over-priced as well as the parts. You'll come out better getting a stock SR20DE and spend that money on pistons, rods headgasket instead of buying GTi-r motor. They're expensive and over-hyped, but they are strong. If you want the SR20 just build one from the ground up and at least you'll know what's in it for the amount of money you've spent. Question for you 87, what are your goals in terms of power output? Tell me that and your budget and I can tell you the god honest truth. Don't tell me a grand either because I we won't be talking about turbocharging anymore!


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Is there a designation for the ca18de(t) motor? Seems just about every Nissan motor has some sort of a designation.


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

That's its designation CA18DET!


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

No, no, I was talking about SE-R being the sr20de, GT-R being the rb26dett. and so on, and so on


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

180sx, bluebird attessa SSS just to name a couple!


----------



## Guest (Feb 20, 2003)

like i said i would love for u to do that swap boost boys and damm for that price i would be willing but there that factor u live in miami and i live in southern cali and i dont thing i can make a road trip other unless u fly down here.lol. like u said theres no shop out here that will do that swap either so im kinda screewed


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I would say research all you can to the point where you think you can do the swap. Living is SoCal, I'd figure you could track someone down to do the swap. My true advice is to learn what you can, buy everything ready to go(a complete harness, motor&tranny,etc..) Give yourself some time and try to get someone to assist you.


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

I'll tell you like I told the rest, if you're really interested, I can almost dummy proof everything meaning, I will provide you all the necessary hardware and instructions as well as support to do this swap! It will be idiot-proof! but if you are not mechanically incline, you're in trouble. If you can change an engine, then my instructions will be elementary to you!


----------



## Guest (Feb 20, 2003)

that sounds great i been working on my car i got the supension of a b-13 se-r with coil over on my car i been pretty much working on my car me and my dad hade change the engine tranny cluth so yea i know a little so what r u asking for every thing i need for the swap so the car can be running everything thanx whats ur price thanxs


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

If he tells you his price, you might want to get someone to pick your jaw off the floor boost_boy, how much would it cost for you to make up a full harness? BTW, I was looking at your signature, what do you mean with your saying "I just know it wasn't a sentra"


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

The sig is what the supra and big boys say when I used to wax that ass! Like the guy in the turbocharged IS300, word got around quickly about that spanking and from what I was told, he said there was no way that an old school sentra is doing over 170mph (he told folks he was doing better than 160mph), hence I got a reputation now. "Nasty sentra beats up on expensive performance cars"


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

That would be cool as hell to hear! I plan on getting there someday, too. However 170 isn't exatly appealing in a tin can


----------



## rice rocket (soon) (Oct 28, 2002)

do you think you could even idiot proof it for me? that might be along the lines of dumbass proofing it


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Idiot proofing is buying a new BMW with a warrenty Nothing is really idiot proof.


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

A tin can is exactly what it is! The way the ass of that car got away leads me to believe that this car (regardless of what you do) will never be a true road-racer!


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

All the car needs is some rear downforce. A small wing should do the trick.


----------



## Guest (Feb 21, 2003)

hey boost boy just a ? i thinking of going down to miami where ur at i know its stupid but i need a vacation anyways how far hrs wise is it from here in southern cali to miami right where u r in that case in take my car down there on top of a car not actually drive in my car. so i can experiance the ride in ur car and see what it really is to go fast. so how far is it thanxs


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

> i know its stupid


 It's not stupid man! I would say about 2-3 days of good riding! man, you flatter me with such an offer, but if that was the case, I would just buy a car and build it for you! Now, if you wanna just ride out, then so be it! And if you gonbna travel that far to get work done, you may as well go for the gusto and get the best of the best, or at least purchase one of my standalones and a bigger turbo (tuning is Free). Sounds like a plan, but you would have to be just that extreme to go through so much. I still offer you the chance to just let me make everything and send it you! The majority of it is plug and play. You will have to get your own front mount intercooler. But if I did it here, you get one of the special ones . You're crazy, but I'm here to help you get to where you want and anyone else for that matter.


----------



## Guest (Feb 22, 2003)

well how much would everything be but i want a 87 sentra with the long tail lights no disrespect but i dont like the 89-90 it aslo has to be 2 if u ca find a crappy car i sell mine. thanxs man if that fails there going to be a road trip to ur town lol but i kinda dont want to sell my car we been trought a lot right now i have 17 velox vx-8 17s gunmetal and the 91 se-r coil-over and struts so make me an ofer boost


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

How much power do you want?


----------



## Guest (Feb 22, 2003)

300 hp if its possible. the way do u know how to do the rear disk brake kit what do i need. im verry pissed cuase i just fond out that while i was sleepen someone diceded to brak my passenger widow with a beer can the beer can is till in the car now the whole damm car smell like beer so by the way how do i take out the smell


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

300hp! The safest and reliable way to 300hp is with an upgraded turbo, bigger injectors, a good intercooler and good tuning! Can be done! And as far as the beer, you can either shampoo the carpet or take it to a detailer and let them tackle it. that must really suck! And as far as price goes, I don't want to seem like a salesman, but you're going to pay for what you get and that will be for what I know that works. I will include my standalone system, T3/T04E turbo and front mount intercooler along with everything needed. You will provide your own boost controller or be prepared to pay for a nice one (I don't play with garbage), BOV (greddy Type R recommended) and gauges (boost, oil pressure and an EGT). However, if you prefer me to provide everything, it's not going to be like buying an CAI & headers ! I don't know what's your budget, but to get to 300whp the way I know how and what it cost me to do my girl's car, in the ball park of about 6-7 grand! If you went with the JWT ECU and components you could knock off about $1400.00 even though the JWT gear will support 300whp. The only problem with that is the majority of the tuning of the ECU is out of my hands and back in JWT's court. They are good at what they do, so you will have an ECU that's the 1st to get done fom a U.S. spec pulsar's ECU (At least that's what they told me 3 years ago). So let me know! This is a partial payment of front deal as I would hate to start something and have someone back-out at the last minute. This shit ain't easy and I have better things to do with my spare time. So if you're game, roll the dice and if you're window shopping, it's cool I ain't mad at ya'! I would shop around for the best deal as well.


----------



## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

I'd definately get rid of the beer smell REALLY QUICK. Be interesting if a cop pulled you over. I'd pay to see someone get out of something like that. You probably should carry some Dunkin Donuts with ya just in case


----------



## Pingu (May 22, 2003)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> *Explain 'GTi-R' isn't that the designatin for the SR20DET and AWD? *


The GTIR is the top of the line Pulsar , 4wd turbo , this had the SR20DEt , but also had quad throttle bodies etc and some other whistles above the normal SR20DET i think.


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

i heard that the ca18det's in japan were running 700 hp...how the hell do they do that?


----------



## boost_boy (May 25, 2002)

> i heard that the ca18det's in japan were running 700 hp...how the hell do they do that?


 Bore it, stroke it, fuel it, boost the fuck out of it and push it. You actually don't need to bore it to get 500whp, but you will boost and fuel it as well as give a good tuning or you will destroying it quckly.


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

wow!


----------



## FlippyBoy (May 23, 2003)

im running a stock 1.6 in my 89 sentra. would it be cheaper to try and build it up, or swap it for the 1.8? i want to run N/A, and i think 140-150 hp would be perfect. i know im not gonna get a whole lot of torque out of either engine, but the more the better (obviously). im not gonna race it (at the track, anyway) - i just wanna make my car that much more fun to drive. also - how hard is it to replace the suspension in a b12? i wanna lower it about an inch and put in new shocks. yes, im a n00b. (-; oh, and one more thing - i dont wanna sound like those kids with the airplane wings and 15 pounds of stickers on their cars - so i would like to keep the stock exhaust (maybe minus the catalytic converter).


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

wow, some guy named ozman kinda blew out an e16i and had something like 167hp and 115ft/lbs of torque...that costed near 7grand i think he said... i was impressed... but like boost_boy always says, the ca18de is the best kept secret (sorry if thats wrong) and i think it comes stock with like 125hp and 115ft./lbs. of torque...which is quite impressive for the money. and after reading this entire thread, id say its probly the only thing you would want to do to your b12...plus theres so much room for upgrades, getting 150 wouldn't be a problem...

suspensions a snap too, its not that hard at all... where are you located FlippyBoy?


----------



## FlippyBoy (May 23, 2003)

my permanent residence is in new york city, but i am currently in buffalo, ny for school. if anyone would be willing to help out a car n00b, id love to build an engine! eventually, i want to put sway bars, a strut bar, lowered springs, and, if its cheap enough, a rear disk conversion. right now, im just a college student, so money is the biggest factor for me. that 1.8 engine on ebay looks pretty tempting.......


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

have you ever done an engine swap before?


----------



## FlippyBoy (May 23, 2003)

nope


----------



## Red_Coupe (Mar 20, 2003)

i like that 15 lbs of stickers.....lol


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

FlippyBoy said:


> *nope *


 than bear in mind this probly isnt going to be as easy as just droping it in, but idk for sure...


----------



## FlippyBoy (May 23, 2003)

i have a basic understanding of the concepts - i just lack the practical experience. i know it will be a _lot_ of work, though. im pretty mechanically inclined, and would pick it up quickly. im sure if i had the right tools, and a well-written guide, i could do it myself. i just cant afford the tools.


----------



## FlippyBoy (May 23, 2003)

is the ca18 significantly heavier than the ga16?


----------



## xXB12RacerXx (Mar 6, 2003)

i would think so, im not sure but id figure an all steel block to be pretty damn heavy...you'll probly need a cherry picker for it...


----------

