# '89 Stiff Clutch Pedal



## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

Hi All,

I recently replaced the clutch with a "SPX" Clutch Kit, and Beck/Arnley Clutch Cable. Everything worked fine for a week. Then for some reason the clutch pedal efford got stiffer and stiffer. Now it is so stiff that I can only hold the clutch down for a second or so before I will get too exhausted. 

Anyone here have similiar experience? I am thinking the SPX Clutch Kit is a piece of sh!t, and the pressure plate is causing this stiff problem. I want to get the Nissan Key Value Clutch Kit and redo the clutch job.

I am getting really sick and tired on this car. No matter how hard we try to fix the problem, it just seems it never improve.

What should I do?

Thanks,
Nelson


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

I have seen this problem before
It could be the clutch cable is getting bound up, and is getting ready to break. Try replacing the clutch cable with one from a auto salvage yard first.


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## Shift_Xtreme (Sep 13, 2005)

I think the problem lies in the clutch release bearing.
When I did my clutch change at 164K KM, after the clutch plate and clutch release bearing change, the pedal never felt so much easier to step on. No cable was changed.



nelam said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I recently replaced the clutch with a "SPX" Clutch Kit, and Beck/Arnley Clutch Cable. Everything worked fine for a week. Then for some reason the clutch pedal efford got stiffer and stiffer. Now it is so stiff that I can only hold the clutch down for a second or so before I will get too exhausted.
> 
> ...


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

It could be the throw out bearring, but I would think that the new clutch would come with a new one. If it was not replaced, then it could be that. I have had the pedal get very stiff, and It was the cable fraying, and getting bound. Either way I figured that the cable would easier to replace with one from a wrecker, then move on.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

im having a intermitant binding pedal which im hoping is the cable, going to change it in the shop innnn..... about a hour or so on my lunch, but when i ordered the cable i ordered a TOB at the same time because im next to positive that its the problem. if it were cable it would be alll the time but its intermitant almost liek the failing part isnt failing all the time because its moving around so that leaves TOB


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## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

bob89sentra said:


> It could be the throw out bearring, but I would think that the new clutch would come with a new one. If it was not replaced, then it could be that. I have had the pedal get very stiff, and It was the cable fraying, and getting bound. Either way I figured that the cable would easier to replace with one from a wrecker, then move on.


Throw out bearing is also the release bearing right? If it is, I replaced it with a Timken one, since the one included in the SPX doesn't fit. So I ended up paying alot for than the Nissan Value Kit, which I should have gotten instead.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

the OEM TOB is much better than anyone elses as it was meant to last, mny aftermarket clutch companys really only care about the clutch lasting and throw a crappy TOB in the deal because u need to change it every time u do a clutch. 

i finally got around to doing my cable at work and when i slid the wire out of the casing i saw 3 or 4 little frayed wires THANK THE NISSAN GODS. i deff didnt feel like takin my tranny out for a crappy aftermarket TOB shittin the bed. The reason why my cable was intermitant was because it was only 3 frayed wires so it wasnt so bad and the area was CAKED with grease so sometiems it had enough grease to slide and sometiems it got bound up, yay for me! so being that it was only 40 bucks and a lot easier than taking everything apart i suggest u invest the same 40 bucks on a OEM clutch cable and see if that doesnt help. If it doesnt then o well u have a new cable which u probebly would have to replace soon anyway. GOOD LUCK


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

When you changed the clutch, were all pivot points properly lubricated? Your problems sounds like the cable. All new cables aren't pre-lubed, therefore, you need to get some cable lube and lube it up. Also, make sure the cable is adjusted properly, you may be binding up the clutch.


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## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

I hate using non Geniune Nissan parts. But when I was in a hurry to get the part. I should have gotten the OEM stuff, 

I will get a new clutch and put it on and see what happens, and use a can of WD40 to lube it up before I put it on.

I also have another post on the motor mount issues as well - the engine is tilted at an angle even with new OEM mounts. I hope this stiff clutch problem is not related to this.

Thanks,
Nelson


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

If the motor and transaxle are tilted enough, that can cause clutch problems, especially with a cable activated clutch


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## dreamteam (Jul 29, 2005)

I did have a problem exactly like this.

Turned out it was a non-OEM throw out bearing.

Replaced it and the problem was gone.

Now, just for insurance, I have drilled a small hole Just 
above the fork. Whenever the clutch starts feeling a little stiff,
I spray a shot of lube into the bearing. works like a charm!


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## astreamk1 (Apr 16, 2004)

I also remember reading on here about making sure that when you have your tranny out to disassemble the clutch cable lever from the tranny and make sure it is lubed up good. apparently that what practice in the dealer garages whenever clutches were replaced and if it gets too dry, can cause additional binding to the works.


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Whenever you lube a pivot point such as the clutch fork, us a high quality lithium-based wheel bearing grease, such as Valvoline Synthetic.  
Also, I have never heard of a bad release bearing causing a clutch pedal to be stiff. Typically stiff pedal is caused by the pressure plate. A bad release bearing tends to make a light grinding noise, sounds almost like a bad input shaft bearing, kinda like what my severly abused T5 sounded like! It also had a shot release bearing, but the pedal wasn't stiff by any means.


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## dreamteam (Jul 29, 2005)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> Whenever you lube a pivot point such as the clutch fork, us a high quality lithium-based wheel bearing grease, such as Valvoline Synthetic.
> Also, I have never heard of a bad release bearing causing a clutch pedal to be stiff. Typically stiff pedal is caused by the pressure plate. A bad release bearing tends to make a light grinding noise, sounds almost like a bad input shaft bearing, kinda like what my severly abused T5 sounded like! It also had a shot release bearing, but the pedal wasn't stiff by any means.


Hey Super,
You should have seen the input shaft when we pulled out that bad throw-out bearing. There was a groove worn into the metal that stopped the bearing from moving.
It can happen!


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Yeah, thats definately and extreme case. That had to suck. A $10 part pretty much destroying a tranny.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

u know what else sucks, being wrong. I was wrong today as i was driving home from the g/fs house and thought the clutch pedel is WAY eiser to push now because of the new non frayed cable it appears that was not my binding problem. Had to drive roughly 30 miles with a few stop and goes in 4th the whole time while shutting the car off at red lights. The clutch would just not release, so i knew now that a bad TOB could event be the problem. Started rippin stuff apart at 5:30ish (dark by 6 had to go get a drop light at the store) got finished at 8. Sure enough checked the TOB and it was fine, proceeded to take the pressure plate off and in doing so i notice one of the fingers sticking out more than it should. There it was, one of the springs from my clutch popped. So i hope you dont have such a disapointment as i have NELAM. One last thing, of course i was working at night so i forgot to unbolt atleast one thing which tonight was the speedo cable, did i mention i wasnt happy? Though i have to take my dash apart to find out why i dont have any lights i still dont like having to pay for yet more stuff. BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH have a good night everyone


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

Well, good luck man. I know the frustrated feeling while working on a car. It gets better. :thumbup:


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## nastynissan (Jan 26, 2003)

Possibly Throw out (AKA Release) bearing, or cable. More than likely though its gonna be the Pressure Plate. If you just replaced the cable with a Beck/Arnely I HIGHLY dobut thats the issue. B/A seals, cables are the ONLY one I use on Import applications. Have yet to have a problem and Ive been using their products for Years now. 

Whether its the TOB or the Pressure Plate the tranny will have to come back out. Not worth discussing which it is. The trans still has to come out. Once its out it'll be OBVIOUS ehst the Prob is.


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## dreamteam (Jul 29, 2005)

Right you are, Nasty!

It doesn't mean squat if you have to tear it apart anyway.

And Slacky,
Thanks for the reminder.
I too had a spring pop.
Couldn't figure it out until we pulled it apart.

Aren't clutches fun?


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

nastynissan said:


> Possibly Throw out (AKA Release) bearing, or cable. More than likely though its gonna be the Pressure Plate. If you just replaced the cable with a Beck/Arnely I HIGHLY dobut thats the issue. B/A seals, cables are the ONLY one I use on Import applications. Have yet to have a problem and Ive been using their products for Years now.
> 
> Whether its the TOB or the Pressure Plate the tranny will have to come back out. Not worth discussing which it is. The trans still has to come out. Once its out it'll be OBVIOUS ehst the Prob is.


Actually, Beck/Arnley makes parts from GM's to Mercedes and everything in between. And other manufactures make cables and such for imports as well.


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## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> Whenever you lube a pivot point such as the clutch fork, us a high quality lithium-based wheel bearing grease, such as Valvoline Synthetic.
> Also, I have never heard of a bad release bearing causing a clutch pedal to be stiff. Typically stiff pedal is caused by the pressure plate. A bad release bearing tends to make a light grinding noise, sounds almost like a bad input shaft bearing, kinda like what my severly abused T5 sounded like! It also had a shot release bearing, but the pedal wasn't stiff by any means.


I haven't heard of bad release bearing causing stiff pedal either. 

I knew that when the pressure plate has alot of miles (ran thru alot of heat cycles) will become stiffer.


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## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

I am now suspecting the problem is mainly caused by my misaligned engine. It is hard it get into, 2nd, 4th, and Reverse gear because of that. And those gears are easy to pop out of gear.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

not exactly true, if its hard to get in a gear then its hard to get out of a gear is more like it. but if u are binding up the shifter and fork by having too much weight on it then yes it would be easier to line up for some gears more than others


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## SuperSentra4203 (Dec 17, 2002)

SuperSentra4203 said:


> If the motor and transaxle are tilted enough, that can cause clutch problems, especially with a cable activated clutch



As I previously stated


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## bob89sentra (Sep 15, 2005)

If it is hard to get into 2nd 4th and reverse you defenatly have to fix the engine mounts first. I would be willing to bet that your rear mount is either missing a bolt, or installed improperly. There should be four bolts that go into the transmission through the rear mounts. I have seen this problem with a car at an auto salvage yard, and when I looked at the rear transmission mount it only had one bolt in it, and the engine was tipping back quite far. When trying the shifter putting it in any of the gears with the shifter pulled back (2,4,rev) I noticed it would lift up the back of the engine, and spring back down. A stiff clutch I do not think has anything to do with the motor mounts though. If it is not the cable, It is either the Throw out bearring (clutch release bearing) is getting bound on the shaft it rides on, or the pressure plate has a bent/ jammed bearing.
Another thought...
If the TOB (throw out bearing) came out of one of it's clips it would be hard to move, I had the bearring come out of one of its clips, and it was dragging on its guide.


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## nelam (Feb 16, 2005)

I got the clutch cable replaced with my old one. The clutch feels normal now. Actually it feels pretty good. I don't know why Beck/Arnley failed on me prematurely. 

I am going to a junkyard this weekend to look at some motor mounts and compare to what I got. 

Can someone please post a few pic of how their passenger side mount look like? It will be much appreciated. 

Thanks,
Nelson


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

just have someone load up the engine, but someone that knows how so they dont run anything over because they cant hold the car in place, had to mention that for safty. When its loaded and idleing there really shouldnt be much of a difference. Do the same action for both 1st and reverse to see the amount of play u have, usually if it looks like too much then it probebly is. With 200+ hp in my b13 my engine moves maybe 3 inches which is more than i would like for reasons u would understand if u have seen a gti-r intake and how close it is to the fire wall. Your engine should move the same or less


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