# Remote oil filter



## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

Anybody put a remote oil filter on a 1998 4 cylinder 2WD Frontier? I bought a PermaCool kit; any hints where to locate the new filter bracket? Any pitfalls or stuff to watch out for?


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

1st question is why? I have a 97 4wd, and I know the filter is kind of a pain to reach, but it's not bad enough to hastle with installing a remote. have you tried just pulling down the black tar-paper like inner fender wall, I've found that to be the best, and really the only, way to effectively get to it. try turning the wheel to full lock right and pulling the paper back, just use pliers to pull the little plastic push pins that attach it to the inner fender. But if you must go with the remote filter I'd say to just keep the lines as strait and smooth as possible and put everything on the cooler side of the motor (as opposed to the side with the exhaust). And don't over tighten your fittings, you can always retighten them later, but it's hard to uncrush a seal or to remove a broken fitting.
good luck.


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

Johnny - I'll post back in a few weeks after I install it, and then I'll let you know if it was worth it.


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## truckfan (Jan 3, 2005)

There is a kit for a remote oil filter?????? Yea, what a great idea! Gimme some details ... where to buy and how much? How hard is it to install? 

I don't know about you other owners, but I think the oil filter is a real PITA to get at. I am a big guy and I can't fit in the wheel well if the wheel is there too. So I have to remove the right front wheel every time I want to change the oil. Annoying. 

-tf :jump:


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

I heard dat! I'm pretty slim so I can get it with the wheel turned fully to the right, but if you've got to remove the wheel, well I'd be wanting to move the filter too.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

I just get under the truck and reach my arm up there. It is a pain in the ass to get my arm between the sway bar, and that other bar but I think it is easier than removing the tire.

I had never heard of going in through the wheel well. Wouldn't moving that wheel well liner wear out the plastic pins and cause the pins to come out one day and the liner start flaping like a *&^%$ driving down the road?
Thats the only thing that would bother me. Have you never had any problems like that? If not, I might have to try it next time I replace my filter. (filter only, I run full syn) :banhump: <----thats funny. I haven't seen that one before


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

Yeah the pins wear out but they're super cheap and available all over the place (auto parts places, hardware stores, some Lowe's & Home Depot's, even some Wal-Mart's). I have had the flap fall down, but it doesn't make anny noise so I suspect that I rode arround for a few weeks with it down, no damage. It makes the filter way more accessible, it's just right there in front for you. Is yours 2 or 4 wheel drive? Mine's 4wd and I've got skidplates to get around.


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## truckfan (Jan 3, 2005)

In my case, the pins are holding fine but the flimsy plastic liner is showing signs of wear. Particularly the holes where the pins go through. A couple holes are now ripped open but it still stays up in position even with just a couple holding it. If it falls off, then it falls off and I'll do without the liner.

Since Nissan never says how to change the oil in any manual I have seen, I'm not sure what process the designers had in mind. I think they meant to go through the wheel well since the filter is easily accessible if you get the wheel and tire out of the way but I'm willing to hear another explanation. 

-tf :crazy:


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

johnnyhammers said:


> Yeah the pins wear out but they're super cheap and available all over the place (auto parts places, hardware stores, some Lowe's & Home Depot's, even some Wal-Mart's). I have had the flap fall down, but it doesn't make anny noise so I suspect that I rode arround for a few weeks with it down, no damage. It makes the filter way more accessible, it's just right there in front for you. Is yours 2 or 4 wheel drive? Mine's 4wd and I've got skidplates to get around.


 2wd drive. I might try that next time. Never hurts to try at least once I guess.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

truckfan said:


> In my case, the pins are holding fine but the flimsy plastic liner is showing signs of wear. Particularly the holes where the pins go through. A couple holes are now ripped open but it still stays up in position even with just a couple holding it. If it falls off, then it falls off and I'll do without the liner.
> 
> Since Nissan never says how to change the oil in any manual I have seen, I'm not sure what process the designers had in mind. I think they meant to go through the wheel well since the filter is easily accessible if you get the wheel and tire out of the way but I'm willing to hear another explanation.
> 
> -tf :crazy:


 My 88 toyota was so much easier then this. I was shocked at the location of the filter the first time I changed the oil.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

Yeah I spent a few munutes looking for it before I caught a little glimpse of orange, then I spent the next hour trying to figure out how in the hell I was gonna get to it. Now I've spent the last two years wondering why it was ever put there. See this is what happens when you design a motor and then put it in the engine bay, as opposed to puttung the block in the bay and ten fitting the stuff in around it. :wtf: 

By the way, if you ever have to change out the alternator, the wheel well will be your best friend. It's not even all that bad through the well. you don't even really have to remove the wheel, just turn it to full lock right, and then turn off the key so the steering lock holds it in place. 

BRILLIANT!! :hal: 
This is how I felt when I finally got out of the auto parts place parking lot.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

truckfan said:


> I think they meant to go through the wheel well since the filter is easily accessible if you get the wheel and tire out of the way but I'm willing to hear another explanation.
> 
> -tf :crazy:


Is there any way you can create an access hole in the wheel well the next time you have it out. You'd have to create a easily removable cover plate for it, but it seems ilke it would be doable.

The six screws holding the little plastic splash plate on my truck were easy enough to remove and replace. And, my fat hand and arm could reach up and get the filter loose, so that's the way I'll be doing it from now on.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

johnnyhammers said:


> Yeah I spent a few munutes looking for it before I caught a little glimpse of orange, then I spent the next hour trying to figure out how in the hell I was gonna get to it. Now I've spent the last two years wondering why it was ever put there. See this is what happens when you design a motor and then put it in the engine bay, as opposed to puttung the block in the bay and ten fitting the stuff in around it. :wtf:
> 
> By the way, if you ever have to change out the alternator, the wheel well will be your best friend. It's not even all that bad through the well. you don't even really have to remove the wheel, just turn it to full lock right, and then turn off the key so the steering lock holds it in place.
> 
> ...


I'll tell you whats a bitch! Changing the altenator in an 01 elantra. You have to pull it from underneath the car. But before that you have to move a few things and REMOVE THE F-ING OIL FILTER. Then and only then would it barely come out. :banhump: <-----Sorry guys, but I love this one

I am going to look into trying to create an access point in the wheel well. That could make life so much easier.


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

It was #771-10695 for $45.99 from www.jegs.com. I'll be installing it this Saturday, will post how it went. Checker/Schucks was more expensive.


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## johnnyhammers (Oct 13, 2005)

I like the access port idea. How about installing snaps, like on a tonneau cover or a coat, where the plastic pins are currently located? Hell I like this idea! The snaps would have to be either plastic or stainless steel, otherwise they would rust and be a pain. Honesly, I think that even Velcro would work if you could get it to stick reliably to the metal and flap. I din't think it would take too much.


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## eb3213 (Nov 7, 2005)

*Oil Filter Change*

I just bought a 2000 Frontier XE KC 2WD with the 4 cylinder engine. 
It has 43000 miles on it and I thought I got a good deal, until 
yesterday. 

I went to change the oil, and could not even see the oil filter! 
I had also bought the Haynes repair book, so I checked it 
and found where the filter was and that you had to get to 
it via the wheel well. What a major PITA! 

I broke one of the 
plastic pins taking off the flap cover, (I had removed the wheel to 
make it easier, but I could not see how it could be done reasonably 
if the wheel was not removed.) As it was I had a hard time 
to remove the filter, no room to get anything in there, and my 
universal end-cap filter wrench was too big. I finally got some 
big channel lock pliers on the end of the filter to loosen it. Then 
it was very awkward to get my hand back in there to get it 
all the off and out, and to install the new one. 
What idiotic moron designed this this way? 
I have had lots 
of cars that I did oil changes on, including all the different ones 
for our three kids, but this is by far the worst I have ever 
encountered. I might add that I am not a Nissan basher. I own 
a 1982 280 ZX from new, and my daughter had a Sentra for many 
years, both of which we were very pleased with. 

So I would appreciate finding out any tips for removal of the filter 
or more details on the remote filter concept. 

Other than this, so far we like the truck. Prior to this one we 
had a 1986 Toyota PU for 15 years which gave excellent 
service and was easy to work on. We recently passed it on 
to our son as a work truck. 

Ed


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

eb3213 said:


> I just bought a 2000 Frontier XE KC 2WD with the 4 cylinder engine.
> It has 43000 miles on it and I thought I got a good deal, until
> yesterday.
> 
> ...


I have been going in from underneath. It is a pain until you get used to it. It then still is a pain, but I don't really have much of a problem with it anymore. I have yet to try to go from the wheel well. Seems as if everyone else prefers it. 
It can't be too bad either, Nissan has been using that engine since the mid 80's. 
I used to have a 88 toyota PU when I was sixteen. I loved that truck. Best vehicle I have ever had. I have pics at my website if you care to see them. I miss that truck! Now that I am a little older, I would take some of that crap of though. Still love it though!


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

*Completed -remote oil filter !!!*

OK I installed the remote filter kit (Perma-Cool #10695) Saturday. I used a Fram PH 43 filter listed instead of the larger filter. I scouted for about an hour to find a decent location for this. If I tried to squeeze it into the upper right portion of the engine compartment, I would've needed to go to the store and get some pipe thread right-angle fittings, as the supplied hose barbs are straight. Attaching to the frame underneath would've required a stubby-type drill. I settled on a location above and inboard of the right front wheel, as the original filter (and this the adapter) point in that direction, and I wouldn't have to drill near any of the air conditioning lines or anything else critical. It's out of the way of being hit by the tire, or by road debris. It also required the shortest length of the supplied oil hose. I did cut a portion of the stock plastic/cardboard shield, and it looks fine, and well worth the effort. Now I won't even have to jack up the truck to change the oil and filter, just can reach under with my 14 mm socket wrench. If anyone wants more information, E-mail me at [email protected], and put oil filter as first two words in the subject line. After I figured out the best location, installation was under one hour, and there were no leaks. Use a door panel tool to remove the stock plastic/cardboard shield.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

eb3213 said:


> So I would appreciate finding out any tips for removal of the filter or more details on the remote filter concept.
> 
> Ed


I removed mine from the bottom.
I think it was 6 bolts holding the plastic splash shield in place.
All of the filter sockets (the ones that go onto the end of the filter and are turned with a 3/8" ratchet) I had were too big also; I was lucky enough to get it off by hand.
I put a K&N filter on; that has the 1" nut welded to the end of it so the next change should be easier.
All in all, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.


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## jerryp58 (Jan 6, 2005)

Cusser said:


> OK I installed the remote filter kit (Perma-Cool #10695) Saturday. I used a Fram PH 43 filter listed instead of the larger filter. I scouted for about an hour to find a decent location for this. If I tried to squeeze it into the upper right portion of the engine compartment, I would've needed to go to the store and get some pipe thread right-angle fittings, as the supplied hose barbs are straight. Attaching to the frame underneath would've required a stubby-type drill. I settled on a location above and inboard of the right front wheel, as the original filter (and this the adapter) point in that direction, and I wouldn't have to drill near any of the air conditioning lines or anything else critical. It's out of the way of being hit by the tire, or by road debris. It also required the shortest length of the supplied oil hose. I did cut a portion of the stock plastic/cardboard shield, and it looks fine, and well worth the effort. Now I won't even have to jack up the truck to change the oil and filter, just can reach under with my 14 mm socket wrench. If anyone wants more information, E-mail me at [email protected], and put oil filter as first two words in the subject line. After I figured out the best location, installation was under one hour, and there were no leaks. Use a door panel tool to remove the stock plastic/cardboard shield.


Got any pics?

Do you have an oil pressure gauge? It'd be interesting to see if there was a change in pressure.

Do you think all of the oil will drain from the lines to the remote filter when you do your next change?


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

so many way to skin a... oil filter. Personally, I go in from the top. Stand in front of the headlight and reach in there with your left arm (go in right behind the top radiator hose. Been doing that for almost 10 years with my 1996 kc. Burning my arm on the hoses is almost second nature to me by now.


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## eb3213 (Nov 7, 2005)

*Oil Filter Location/Change*

Thanks for the responses. It seems whatever way
you do it, it is not easy, maybe the remote add on
is the way to go.

I forgot to mention this in my last post. Another bad
consequence of having to jack up the right front wheel
is that the oil pan drain bolt is also on the right side 
of the pan. This means that the pan is tilted
towards the left, so not all the oil comes out unless
you lower the right side again, and then re-jack it up 
to put the wheel on.

Thoughtless design on this on, I'm afraid. Unlike
my 280 ZX, which is one of the best cars ever made
in the reasonable price range AFAIAC.

Ed


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

eb3213 said:


> Thanks for the responses. It seems whatever way
> you do it, it is not easy, maybe the remote add on
> is the way to go.
> 
> ...


Here's how I do it. I have this nice sized piece of cardboard that I keep in the back of my truck all the time. I lay it out flat on ground right underneath the front bumper in front of the right wheel. I lay down on my back laying parrallel with the front bumper, but underneath(a lot more room than under the engine itself or coming in from the side underneath the frame). The rest of the procedure is obvious to all that change their own oil. 
I just wanted to give you my way of doin it so that you don't have to jack the truck up. It works great for me. I can still reach the drain plug and always seem to have plenty of leverage when taking the plug out. 

Like I said, this is how I do it and never really have any problems this way and never have to jack up the truck. Hope this helps.

The oil filter relocation thing just scares the heck out of me. Really concerning.


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## eb3213 (Nov 7, 2005)

mitchell35758 said:


> Here's how I do it. I have this nice sized piece of cardboard that I keep in the back of my truck all the time. I lay it out flat on ground right underneath the front bumper in front of the right wheel. I lay down on my back laying parrallel with the front bumper, but underneath(a lot more room than under the engine itself or coming in from the side underneath the frame). The rest of the procedure is obvious to all that change their own oil.
> I just wanted to give you my way of doin it so that you don't have to jack the truck up. It works great for me. I can still reach the drain plug and always seem to have plenty of leverage when taking the plug out.
> 
> Like I said, this is how I do it and never really have any problems this way and never have to jack up the truck. Hope this helps.
> ...



Thanks again. I will try all these ideas for the next oil change,
which will be in about 6 months, since I used synthetic for the change,
which is what I use in all my vehicles. By then I may have
got over how bad it was! 
Ed

Ed


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

I don't have an oil pressure gauge. For all the hassles and issues you guys state, it was well worth it to me. I'm guessing most/all of the oil will drain out of the filter through the lines next time I change the oil. The oil lines run roughly parallel to the ground, but any dripping will be straight down to a pan. I will try to get some pictures soon.


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## mitchell35758 (Oct 21, 2005)

I am about to head out and change my oil filter with the cover of night(it's against my apartment complexes policy to allow any type of work done on vehicles on the property. They don't provide us a place to do this stuff, then I say screw them and do it at night when they are not there). I was thinking back to this thread about going in through the wheel well. I think it is not worth the extra effort to go that route since I still have to remove the splash plate to allow the oil to drip down. My question is, on the older frontiers and pick-ups, I see a little part of the splash shield that hangs down like its broken. I know that it is not and looks like it was designed that way to allow oil to run off it into a oil collection pan. If this is the case, does anyone know if they have modified the new one in a way that will not allow a easy swap? If indeed it is a quick swap, then yeah, I might try going through the wheel well. It would make life easy then. Thanks :thumbup:


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