# Short or battery?



## 1989SentraOK (Jan 29, 2004)

Okay, I'm wondering if this is just a short or the battery's about dead, but my charge battery light and the light that says my lights are on are stuck on, and that seems like an odd combo so is it a short or do i really need to charge my battery?


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## Galimba1 (Aug 16, 2002)

possible short in your cluster or wiring. Doesn't kragen or autozone or even pep boys have battery testing equipment. That'll help determine if you need a new battery.


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## Popkorn (Nov 16, 2003)

Could be both alt/bat. Alot of times the battery starts to go and puts a constant load on the alt which causes it to fail prematurely. Or the reverse, the alt starts to go and the battery never gets a full charge which causes premature battery failure. Dunno how many times I've replaced the alt only to have to replace the battery 2 days later. Just my 2cent. Keep us posted on what REALLY happened.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

either swap a battery, turn it over with the coil wire off so it doesnt start and see if it dies really quick, but its most likely a short because there really isnt any reason why your head light indicator is on...


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## recycled_toddler (Feb 4, 2004)

Check your fusible links; Had that happen with my '84, and the fusible link was dead. Replaced it and it fixed it. On my car, they were on the battery positive terminal; Your B12's...I dunno. Best to ya! --RT


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## 1989SentraOK (Jan 29, 2004)

Actually all the lights have turned off now but my gas gauge reads kinda wierd...it never stays in one place.


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## sunnydet90 (Sep 10, 2004)

thats weird mine just started doint the same thing on friday i was comin home from my g/fs house and the brake light(on the dash) and the charge light just came on and i checked the battery when i got home and ran a load test and found out that something had arked and blew up the alternator and so i got a new one but something is blowing the fuse for the fuel and temp gauges anyone have any ideas as to whats wrong?


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

I have a short (used the parasitic draw test) but I can't find the source... I'm using a Nissan Sunny B12 diesel 


btw does any one know where to find the fuse diagram? 









and does anyone know which terminal goes to where? 










will update soon...


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## Rideon (Jun 30, 2016)

Aren't there multimeters can that find the source? And for the diagram, try the web. Type in exactly what you want to find. There are plenty of PDF files downloaded that you can find this way.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

1989SentraOK said:


> Okay, I'm wondering if this is just a short or the battery's about dead, but my charge battery light and the light that says my lights are on are stuck on, and that seems like an odd combo so is it a short or do i really need to charge my battery?


If the battery is old, it's best to replace it otherwise remove the battery and get it tested for any dead cells then get it fully charged up. You must first have the battery fully charged and the surface charge must be removed before testing. If the battery has been setting at least 6 hours you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must experience a load of 20 amps for 3 plus minutes. Turning on the headlights (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the lights you are ready for testing.

A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, first thing to do is to turn the key "on" and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is ok but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECM. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

I have a multimeter, I have mentioned already that I did the parasitic draw test (pulled out all the fuse) and there is still a draw that is present. 

I can't find fuse for the b12 diesel


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Disconnect the Alt's connector and its cable that comes from the battery (+).

Connect DVOM in diode mode with red lead on Alt post [that battery (+) comes from - not the cable itself, but the Alt post] and black lead on Alt case (good ground area). Read DVOM.

Now reverse the DVOM leads (still in diode mode). Read DVOM.

Should get little to no throughput (infinity) at first and (2- to) 3-digits read-out the other way. If no throughput one way and 3-digits reversed, Alt diodes are okay and Alt is not draining your battery.

If you get 3-digits reading out both ways (or high #s both ways), (one or more of) the Alt diodes have failed and are back-drawing current when the car is off. That would explain having pulled fuses and still draining.

Let us know what you find.


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Disconnect the Alt's connector and its cable that comes from the battery (+).
> 
> Connect DVOM in diode mode with red lead on Alt post [that battery (+) comes from - not the cable itself, but the Alt post] and black lead on Alt case (good ground area). Read DVOM.
> .


the reading did not move




Car guy said:


> Now reverse the DVOM leads (still in diode mode). Read DVOM.


I got a reading of 694


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I don't know if this info help last Friday the highest reading was around 18 amps (lucky my meter did not explode or anything... ) the other day the drain was about 1.34amps but yesterday it rose to 2.6amps

btw is diesel and gasoline fuse diagram the same? 

mine kinda look like this (I'm using the diesel)


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

That's a hell of a drain! I would remove the wire to the "BAT" connection at the back of the alternator and see if the draw drops significantly. Anything over 50 milliamps (0.050A) is considered excessive.


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

yes, I already disconnected the alternator but the drain still persist


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<<Disconnect the Alt's connector and its cable that comes from the battery (+).

Connect DVOM in diode mode with red lead on Alt post [that battery (+) comes from - not the cable itself, but the Alt post] and black lead on Alt case (good ground area). Read DVOM.>>

<the reading did not move>

Perfect.

<<Now reverse the DVOM leads (still in diode mode). Read DVOM. >>

<I got a reading of 694>>

Perfect.

It's not your Alt diodes allowing the Alt to reverse draw then.

(Also saw your Subsequent post with battery cable disconnected.)


What about the battery shorted internally?

Was the car in any accident or bumped/hit from the front?


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

Car guy said:


> What about the battery shorted internally?
> 
> Was the car in any accident or bumped/hit from the front?


I don't think it's the battery because I have used 3 different batteries here. One from my starex that got it's new battery Nov last year, the original battery that was in the car, it's almost a year and a battery I recently got last month. 

Before this happened, the day before, I had the car serviced at the gas station to change a leaking hose, They removed the starter to get to the hose but after that I was able to start the car normally then I drove it home then the day after I went to work, checked the battery 12.6v, then during lunch time that's the time the battery went empty. I replaced it with another battery thinking it was just the battery. I did not test it for parasitic drain and went to the mall to check some coolant but then after the car batt went dead again. had to push start the car with the help of the security guys and went home. I removed the negative terminal and check the battery it was 10v and when I install the terminal, it reads 5.89v and dropping fast like a count down.


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

update: I finally found a mechanic that does home service.. he was able to trace the short to the dashboard, there were some wire that were exposed, that cause the short. also we found out that the starter had problems, that's why the car had a hard time starting.. I'm getting it rewind (a brand new right now would be too expensive) hopefully that would be the problem for now. Can't wait to drive again.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Excellent. Good to hear. Thanks for letting everyone know.

Did they say what the dash wires were?

Did they have to remove the instrument cluster? Remove the center of the dash? 

Also, not sure what hose would have required the starter to be removed to access the hose. The heater hoses run above it, but no hoses are blocked by the starter.


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## sunny168 (Jul 5, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Excellent. Good to hear. Thanks for letting everyone know.
> 
> Did they say what the dash wires were?
> 
> ...


it was under the steering wheel, just before the wire goes to the dash. cause when they isolated the wire the dash lights was off then when they tapped it the lights came back.. hopefully they will be back with the starter so i'll ask the complete info.. They(the one who change the leaking hose) remove the starter because the hose was more accessible from the bottom after the starter was removed.


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