# 200sx restoration underway. couple questions



## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

hey, im new to this section of the forum, i just got a 97 200sx for $500, it has a bad starter, but will still start, a bad flexpipe and some electrical issues.

such as when i am driving, the airbag stays lit. and the lights for the gauges do not come on when i turn my lights on, any fixes for these other than fuses? i will be checking fuses in the a.m.

all help appreciated


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

the lights on the gauges...wiggle the rheostat by cruise switch, these go bad.
there is a procedure to re-set the airbag light, this is troublesome once triggered, search and you will find it.
yes starters go bad...
i guess you are up north, flex connectors go out up there so i have read here....


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

got the lights working, but now my check engine light is on along with the airbag light still. hopefully just an o2 sensor. will update you with what i diagnose.

is it posible to swap my instrument cluster with one from like a 4th gen maxima or 3rd gen sentra se-r??? preferably 4th gen max. 

thanks. and im actually from south jersey


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## maroonsentra (Mar 3, 2007)

ProphetVG30E said:


> got the lights working, but now my check engine light is on along with the airbag light still. hopefully just an o2 sensor. will update you with what i diagnose.
> 
> is it posible to swap my instrument cluster with one from like a 4th gen maxima or 3rd gen sentra se-r??? preferably 4th gen max.
> 
> thanks. and im actually from south jersey


Pull the codes and see what comes back. I'd pull the plug from the cluster and be done with the light, but it you want it to work, then you need to reset it.


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

pulled about 5 codes. i might just bring it to the local nisan dealer for a better evaluation for the aiag light. 

back to the cluster topic. has anyone tried doing such a swap?? and if not possible, what would cause my odometer and trip meter to stop working??? 

who has actually done a starter job?? it looks like it gonna be a real beebuzzer to do, esp with big hands like mine

thanks.......


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## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

I have swapped out the entire instrument cluster in my 95 200sx because my odometer was not working but the Speed-o-meter was. I used the same model unit for the 200sx that has the tac. The reg Sentra does not have a tach. Don't know about the Altima gauges etc like you asked.

The speedometer, tip meter and cruise control are all electronic and are feed by the speed sensor on the transmission via the computer.

If your Speedometer is not working and your cruise control is not working either then it is probably the speed sensor in the top of the transmission near the firewall, or the wiring to it from the computer. If the cruise works but not the speedometer then suspect the speedometer unit or the connections on the back of it to the computer.

That starter is a bear to get to with everything still in place on the car.
I have replaced mine but it was with passenger side the CV axle removed and I have a lift so it was not too bad. This was an automatic trans. I can not remember if the manual trans is the same or not. At least on the automatic the two bolts for the starter are reached from both the top and bottom, one from each direction. Here are a few photos explaining the location of the top bolt. The lower bolt is just on the opposite side of the starter motor hollow in the trans housing show in those photos and is reached from underneath along with the battery and starter solenoid wires. The lower bolt can be seen below the starter moter in the third photo link below. That same photo shows the speed sensor just to the left of the starter and down. It is on top of the transmission and a harness connector plugs into that squarish gray box on top of it. A set bolt holds the sensor in place on the transmission. Loosen and take the bolt out and pull straight up to remove the sensor I believe. my sensor still worked but the nylon gear on it was worn down so far it was not touching the gear in the trans anymore.

Starter motor removal pic2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Starter motor removal pic1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2122/2239904621_9c82011a92_o.jpg

Also, feel free to check out my other pics. I have several of the 1.6L 200sx with the engine out of the car in various stages of assembly. Might give you a better idea of where everything is located on the engine to see photos like this.

Twins + 1 - a set on Flickr


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

is it a 1.6 ?
The 1.6 manual is easier than the 1.6 auto or 2.0 manual.
The starter either is under the intake or on top of the transmission.
If its under the intake its a bear to get at.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

great pictures showing the location on an auto 1.6 !!
2.0 manual is in the same position.
You cant swap non-tach to tach clusters without re-wiring the three plugs and adding a ground pin and lead.


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## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Starter Motor location*

Yes, I believe I remember the starter motor on my Son's 1.6L 5 speed is on top of the trans directly opposite of the position of the automatic. Much easier to change, All top side.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

yes, my 1.6 manual starter was on top of the trans. 
Only had to change the 2.0 manual, under the intake, figures !!!


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

1.6 auto.

i do have a tachometer. so i assume it is possible to swap with a 4th gen maxima cluster...........


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## blkbird (Sep 1, 2008)

Not sure about the weird tach swap. But only the B14 seems to fit in there. My lights when turn on sometimes cause the light on the tach not to turn on also. I adjust the contrast, the knob next to the steering, and the light came on. However, if I turn to the highest setting of brightness, the light on the tach will shut off. 
So, I left at medium range. 
As for the starter, I've owned about ten of these 2.0, it is a biatch even for my small hands.


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

well, forget about that swap, back to the starter..........

does anyone have any advice to take it out, so i can take it out quickly, and have it tested, or even rebuild it??? im getting this out of the way this week. its gettin colder, and dying slowly. had no start whatsoever this weekend, after beating it and all.

any verbal advice appreciated........

1.6 auto, just incase i failed to mention it before


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

OK, since its in the same place as the SR It should be much the same....
I removed mine from under the car, disconnect the battery first
I loosened the intake brace on the passenger side upper, removed the lower attaching bolts, and upper nut on the drivers side,
The passenger upper looked too difficult for me to re-attach, so i loosened it up and swung it out the way.
Removed the solenoid leads, main and starter energizing lead.
removed the plastic clip on the lead from the brace.
remove the starter attaching bolts, squeeze it through the gap by the drive shaft.
anyone else, any advice ?


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

note the comment above about the bolt locations for the starter. maybe remove the upper one from above, from the transmission side before getting under the car.


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## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*Starter Motor bolt loactions*

Yes,
Remove the upper bolt from the drivers side from above the transmission before you go below to do the rest. Here are my photos from the 1.6L but I believe they are similar to the 2.0 also.

Starter motor removal pic2 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Starter motor removal pic1 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

got everything off EXCEPT the two bolts that hold the starter to the motor/trans. im assuming i need a swivel socket to get the bottom bolt off. 

and before i go any further, occasiuonally, the starter DOES NOT crank unless i tap it from the bottom under the car, or sometimes from up top, but it has started fine 4 days straight till friday-saturday. could it be just a loose connection??? dont wanna get a starter if i really dont need it


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

ProphetVG30E said:


> got everything off EXCEPT the two bolts that hold the starter to the motor/trans. im assuming i need a swivel socket to get the bottom bolt off.
> 
> and before i go any further, occasiuonally, the starter DOES NOT crank unless i tap it from the bottom under the car, or sometimes from up top, but it has started fine 4 days straight till friday-saturday. could it be just a loose connection??? dont wanna get a starter if i really dont need it


If it works when you hit it i can think of two possible causes
1) Pre-engagement solenoid sticking. This has been reported here, search for threads, some have instructions on lubricating the assembly
2) brushes worn out. you have to take apart, inspect and if the problem you can repair yourself.
You will need either whole assembly with leads or just brushes and solder in leads. I have done this on other non Nissan cars several times. Works and is cheaper than a new starter. make sure the commutator looks OK before you start.
Good luck.....


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## etepsnewo (Jul 5, 2008)

*New starter?*

I agree, starter solenoid or brushes. Loose connection? Probably not but check it anyway for corrosion on the terminal before total removal.

Has the weather been different the last four days?
Or the brushes might just be loosing contact at certain places depending where is happens to stop after the last use and you have just been lucky.

I know the Nissan starter is expensive NEW but how much are the REBUILT units from the Auto Parts Stores?


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

around $150 -165
A local wrecker yard offered me alternators and starters for $40, worth checking


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

OKAY, that had to be one of the easiest jobs i have ever done. all i really needed was a ratcheting wrench for the bottom bolt. took BOTH bolts off from top. took less than an hour altogether thursday. 

wow, thats done, now for the check engine light.

im getting codes such as the egr solenoid failure, o2 sensor failure, camshaft position sensor failure and somethin else i cant remeber off the top of my head. any one who has had a similar problem & fix???? i need to pass inspection, and cant if its on.


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## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

post the codes 
Camshaft position sensor is in the distributor, and fails when there is Oil from the seal on the disc or its just broken.


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

camshaft code gone, o2 sensor, egr, and evap *2 remain


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

would a grille off an infiniti i30 or such be a direct fit for our b14"s??? i love that look


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

i havent been on in a month......... but does ANYONE know what infiniti grille will fit our B14's?????


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## Sir X Loin (Jan 4, 2009)

I asked a guy who was selling those Infinity grilles on eBay how the fit B14's. He said some take minor mods. IE taking a wizz wheel to the lower mounting tabs. For me and my 97 GXE he said it would pop right in. I still think nothing is THAT easy.

I bout a 99 sentra grille for my 97. Mine is busted and the 99 was cheap on the 'bay'. The top fits mint. But the lower clips and about a half an inch off. wizz wheel and epoxy could do it right. 

Im not sure if that helps...


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## ProphetVG30E (Jan 14, 2008)

i found out its off an infiniti G20, i will look around for one in the area first before i go online...........

has anyone ever thought of changing the horn??? to me, it sounds really puny........


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## Sir X Loin (Jan 4, 2009)

ProphetVG30E said:


> i found out its off an infiniti G20, i will look around for one in the area first before i go online...........
> 
> has anyone ever thought of changing the horn??? to me, it sounds really puny........



my buddy put in a PIAA euro horn. It has that "rally" sound. Id love to do the low/high combo. 

The stock horn is laughable.


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