# Seeking help with Audiobahns & subwoofer advice...



## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

BEWARE: THIS IS A LONG ONE. Alright, here is my current setup...

Headunit: Alpine CDM-7874
Relevant Specs...
CD/MD Signal to Noise Ratio (sensitivity): 105 dB
CD/MD Frequency Response: 5Hz- 20kHz
RMS Power x Channels (Watts): 22 x 4
Peak Power x Channels (Watts): 50 x 4
Number of Pre-Amp Outputs: 2 Sets
Pre-Amp Output Voltage (Volts): 2.0
FM Mono Sensitivity (dBf): 9.3

Front speakers: Audiobahn AS65-Q 6.5" 3-way
Relevant Specs...
Sensitivity: 94dB	
Frequency Response: 50Hz-20kHz
RMS Power Handling: 100 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 200 Watts
Cone Material: Black Carbon Fiber
Tweeter Material: Silk Dome

Rear speakers: Audiobahn AS62-Q 6.5" 2-way
Relevant Specs...
Sensitivity: 94dB 
Frequency Response: 50-20kHz
RMS Power Handling: 90 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 180 Watts
Cone Material: Black Poly Carbon	
Tweeter Material: Silk Dome

And here is my situation: Something has been wrong with this system for quite some time now. I just now decided to stop procrastinating and actually to something about it. The main problem that i noticed a few months ago was that my left front speaker sounded "crackly" if i had the volume low, but it became somewhat unnoticeable if i turned the volume up.

Then a few weeks ago i was messing around with the Fade/Balance controls to try to get the best sound out of the speakers (even though the left front one sounded like crap at times). In the process i figured out that there was actually NO sound coming from the right front speaker AT ALL. I don't know how long this had been the case, but that's when i decided i have to do something about it. (I'm surprised i didn't even notice up till that point that i was "missing" a speaker!)

Last summer I took the left front speaker out and moved the metal wire around that goes from the mid-range section.. through the woofer material.. and into the magnet/circuit area. This temporarily made the speaker sound brand new again. Only a few weeks later the "crackly" sound came back again. Here's all i can come up with: perhaps the mid-range section is just blown, but when i turn up the volume the bass and the tweeters drown out the sound of the blown mid-range. This is merely speculation, as I'm not really sure what's going on. So my "help" questions are as follows...

1) Has anyone ever experienced any of the said problems with Audiobahn speakers in general? more particularly this model?

2) How should i go about fixing my problem? Should i take the speakers to a "repair" shop to be looked at? And if so, which one? (Circuit City?) Unfortunately, I no longer live near the place that i bought the speakers 3 years ago(!), otherwise i would just go there.

3) Given the inexpensive cost of replacement for the front speakers, would you simply recommend that i replace them without even overanalyzing it?


In addition, i recently acquired a 12" JL W0 subwoofer (like new) from a friend of mine. It has these specs...

Sensitivity: 87.6 db
RMS Power Handling: 125 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 300 Watts
Voice Coil: Single	
Cone Material: Glass Fiber
Surround Material: Foam

I don't have a sub box, amplifier, or any wiring. So my "advice" questions are as follows...

1) What brand/model amplifier would you recommend to accompany this subwoofer? (i'm at least assuming a mono amp rated at less than or equal to the power handling specs of the sub)

2) OR would you suggest i just sell the W0 sub, and get a sub/amp from Alpine or Audiobahn to match my current system setup?


Sorry for the overly-extensive post. Hopefully SOMEONE out there has the time to read it, as i have hardly had the time to post it! Thanks! :fluffy:


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## ga16freak (Dec 31, 2004)

Im not an audio genius or anything but I would think that the speaker has just died. Audiobahn doesnt exactly make the best quality speakers and 3 years is a lot of life. I think you would be better off keeping the sub you have first beacause you wouldnt be able to sell a used sub for enough to get a new one that is better quality, but whatever you do dont get an audiobahn sub. You can get much better stuff for the money.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

^^ agreed on all counts. The front speaker is fragged, it's not worth it to repair it-- so get a new one. The w0 will serve you ok, until you need more bass. If you think you will want to upgrade, remember that you will probably not really have any use for the amp used to push the w0, so consider that when buying. As far as a box goes, if you build one search for a write up on the net (lots out there). If you buy one premade, be sure it matches the box specs on JL's website. To match the kind of set up you are running, I would suggest a hifonics amp. Buy one that fits the impedance of the sub and run ~150-200watts to it. Something like this: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13988


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## Zac (Mar 10, 2004)

Hifonics amps are of exceptional quality for the price. My buddy is pushing 3 MB Quart subs with a Brutus (it is a real value system) and it sounds incredibly clean and loud.


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## black97ser (May 5, 2005)

your problem is audiobahn, go with something a little more pricey, usually better quality is reworded. ive had 2 alpine type-e subs and alpine 6 1/2's in my car(s) for about 2 years now. not a single problem with them and i crank the hell outta them.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

doesn't even need to be more expensive, there is plenty out there that will crush Audiobahn and is actually cheaper


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## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

wow... this is new news to me. i was always under the impression that audiobahn was high quality! i guess not.



captain_shrapnel said:


> ^^ agreed on all counts. The front speaker is fragged, it's not worth it to repair it-- so get a new one. The w0 will serve you ok, until you need more bass. If you think you will want to upgrade, remember that you will probably not really have any use for the amp used to push the w0, so consider that when buying. As far as a box goes, if you build one search for a write up on the net (lots out there). If you buy one premade, be sure it matches the box specs on JL's website. To match the kind of set up you are running, I would suggest a hifonics amp. Buy one that fits the impedance of the sub and run ~150-200watts to it. Something like this: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13988


I think you suggested an amp that is a little too powerful. It says that Hifonics amp is rated at 200 Watts RMS (non-bridged) and 450 Watts peak. Remember i said that 12" W0 is only 125 Watts RMS and 300 Watts peak. I don't want to be blowing my precious sub now!  




sr20deam0n said:


> doesn't even need to be more expensive, there is plenty out there that will crush Audiobahn and is actually cheaper


Could you provide any examples? At this point in time i'm just thinking about matching my headunit (it's very nice ) and going with Alpine speakers all the way and perhaps an Alpine amplifier to power the sub. Or do i not even need to spend that kinda money to get a CLEAN sounding and LOUD system that won't get "fragged" for the next 10 years+ ?? What would you guys say?


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## black97ser (May 5, 2005)

if you want a very crisp clean sounding system that will last you a very long time and you can blast the crap out of. then i got two suggestions.

A. for car interior speakers go with either Alpine or Infinity. they run around the same price, but i think infinity are better. My friend has them and he can blare them til my ears hurt outside the car, and they still sound great. depending on the quality of your headunit, you may need a amp for them.

B. for subwoofers, i would go with either MTX, JL Audio, or Alpine. MTX is probably the cheapest route, with alipine in the middle, and JL Audio at the top, alll depending on which subs you go with. most mtx's are good quality, and i have not heard a bad sounding alpine i have the lowest class and love them. however be careful in choosing JL Audio. some of them are cheap, but u get exactly what u pay for.

this is just my recommendation. if you got a set of infinity speakers and 1-2 mtx subs, all depending on sizes, the lowest you should be spending is around 400-700 dollars depending where u look. that is including all the wires and amp(s) you will need.

i have a new pioneer headunit, with alpine speakers and 2 12" Alpine Type-E Subs. I have a 1200 Watt monochannel amp for the subs, and a 250 watt 4 channel amp for the speakers. all of this ran me about 1600 dollars, but i dont regret any of it.


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## black97ser (May 5, 2005)

yea, with the headunit you have, you will most likely need a seperate amp for your speakers.

if u give me a price you are willing to spend, i can help you find the best, or close to, set up that you good get.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

MCHNHED said:


> Could you provide any examples?


cdt, elemental designs, adire, resonant engineering, image dynamics, arc (if you want to go the sq route, they don't get that loud unless you get the top end stuff). I would avoid any of the mainstream brands, mtx amps have some severe overheating problems, alpine in general (though the headunits are good, and subs are respectable) is nothing to write home about, I absolutely hate infinity, jl is overpriced (if you buy it locally), kenwood and kicker amps are decent but overpriced, kicker subs sound like poo, kenwood subs don't get loud and blow too easily....I could go on for days.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

MCHNHED said:


> I think you suggested an amp that is a little too powerful. It says that Hifonics amp is rated at 200 Watts RMS (non-bridged) and 450 Watts peak. Remember i said that 12" W0 is only 125 Watts RMS and 300 Watts peak. I don't want to be blowing my precious sub now!


First of all, ignore ALL peak power specs. They are useless. Follow rms power for a better guideline. Second, it is far worse to underpower a speaker than to overpower it. If you are worried about it, reduce the amplifier's gain level to the correct setting. This will be good on all accounts... less noise, less heat, and no distortion (which is what REALLY kills a speaker).


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## black97ser (May 5, 2005)

captain_shrapnel said:


> First of all, ignore ALL peak power specs. They are useless. Follow rms power for a better guideline. Second, it is far worse to underpower a speaker than to overpower it. If you are worried about it, reduce the amplifier's gain level to the correct setting. This will be good on all accounts... less noise, less heat, and no distortion (which is what REALLY kills a speaker).



ahh peak power, rofl, couldnt have said it better myself. rms is about 10^10 times more important then peak power. if u are nt sure waht rms is , thats most liekly what your subs and amp will be putting out and using most of the time.


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## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

black97ser said:


> ahh peak power, rofl, couldnt have said it better myself. rms is about 10^10 times more important then peak power. if u are nt sure waht rms is , thats most liekly what your subs and amp will be putting out and using most of the time.


Being a computer engineer, i'm pretty well versed in what RMS and peak power ratings actually mean. 



black97ser said:


> A. for car interior speakers go with either Alpine or Infinity. they run around the same price, but i think infinity are better. My friend has them and he can blare them til my ears hurt outside the car, and they still sound great. depending on the quality of your headunit, you may need a amp for them.
> 
> B. for subwoofers, i would go with either MTX, JL Audio, or Alpine. MTX is probably the cheapest route, with alipine in the middle, and JL Audio at the top, alll depending on which subs you go with. most mtx's are good quality, and i have not heard a bad sounding alpine i have the lowest class and love them. however be careful in choosing JL Audio. some of them are cheap, but u get exactly what u pay for.


I would like to think that you read my previous post in which i stated i _already have_ a 12" JL W0 subwoofer. I'm really just looking for an amplifier that will...

1) NOT blow up or damage the sub
2) give me high quality sound
3) be crisp and loud



black97ser said:


> yea, with the headunit you have, you will most likely need a seperate amp for your speakers.
> 
> if u give me a price you are willing to spend, i can help you find the best, or close to, set up that you good get.


I'm really just looking for a good products to replace/complement my current setup - not really looking to get an amplifier for my speakers just yet. I will most likely be scrapping the Audiobahn speakers and keeping my Alpine headunit. So that leaves speakers and amplifier(s) left to purchase. I can pretty much spend as much as needed as long as i see long-lasting value in the product. However, i really don't want to have a system that's worth more than $1000 total. I'm not looking to win any audio contests here or provide any jackpots for local theives.  Let me know then.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

MCHNHED said:


> Being a computer engineer, i'm pretty well versed in what RMS and peak power ratings actually mean.


My guess is you know what they _should_ mean, but not what they turn into once asshole marketers show up on the scene. In short, ignore peak power ratings completely, they can't tell you a single thing about how the amp or speaker will perform.




MCHNHED said:


> I can pretty much spend as much as needed as long as i see long-lasting value in the product. However, i really don't want to have a system that's worth more than $1000 total.


Heh, I love that...."I can spend as much as needed, as long as it's not more than $1k". Just to let you know $1k is pretty cheap as far as aftermarket stereos go, in fact that's about the bare minimum I would recommend spending for a full system, any less than that and you might as well just leave it stock and spend your money elsewhere IMO.

Anyway, you need a sub amp and front speakers, but you don't have/want an amp for the front speakers? Are you willing to deaden the front doors at least? If you don't want a front stage amp and you don't want to deaden the doors, then don't bother spending any more than $100 on your front speakers, any more than that will just be a waste of money. If you are willing to take the extra steps needed then there is a world of possibilities out there. For a sub amp, anything that does around 300x1 at whatever impedance you need would work fine, more power wouldn't hurt and it would open up the doors to a better sub in the future. What impedance is the sub by the way?


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## MCHNHED (Dec 22, 2002)

I realize that $1k is fairly cheap for a decent sounding system, but i just want something simple but with clean power.

I am definitely willing to deaden the front doors before i amplifier any of the speakers. I have been looking at B-Quiet, which I found in this NPM article.


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Well you already have the headunit and the sub, so that's a start. For components there are a few choices depending on how much you want to spend. I'm a big fan of the Adire Audio Kodas, but unfortunately they're on hiatus right now, though supposedly the Image Dynamics Chameleons perform similarly. Those are both around the $300-350 mark though, and an amp for them would improve their behavior greatly but would cost another $200 or so. Deadening will go a long way though, b-quiet should be fine. There are a bunch of choices for a sub amp, what impedance is the sub? It's a single voice coil model, so I'm guessing it's a single 4ohm, in which case just about any 2ch amp can be bridged to power it adequately. You could actually get a strong 4ch amp and run the components and the sub with it, something like a phoenix gold xenon 200.4


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