# 00 Altima GXE Intake Gasket



## giorno (Aug 22, 2005)

I have a 2000 Altima GXE that has a bad intake gasket, it leaks at #4 cylinder. Which also causes a rough idle and check engine light.

Anyone have any thoughts on where I can find instructions or illustrations to repair, w/o buying a professional repair manual? 
I would like tear down and replacement order, torq specs, etc.

Any comments, concerns, or "heads-up"s will be greatly appreciated.

P.S.
I already have the gasket.


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

I am going through the exact same thing on my 2000 Altima. I have learned through the dealerships that you should beable to go to your local library and make copies of the tech manual. There are no Haynes or Chiltons available for 98-00 Altimas. I have also been told that it is a good idead to replace BOTH intake manifold gaskets. There is an upper and a lower. It's also a long and painstaking process. I think I am going to tackle it this weekend. I'll let everyone know how it goes if I do.



giorno said:


> I have a 2000 Altima GXE that has a bad intake gasket, it leaks at #4 cylinder. Which also causes a rough idle and check engine light.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts on where I can find instructions or illustrations to repair, w/o buying a professional repair manual?
> I would like tear down and replacement order, torq specs, etc.
> ...


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## giorno (Aug 22, 2005)

Da_mikester2003 said:


> I am going through the exact same thing on my 2000 Altima. I have learned through the dealerships that you should beable to go to your local library and make copies of the tech manual. There are no Haynes or Chiltons available for 98-00 Altimas. I have also been told that it is a good idead to replace BOTH intake manifold gaskets. There is an upper and a lower. It's also a long and painstaking process. I think I am going to tackle it this weekend. I'll let everyone know how it goes if I do.


Thanks for the response.
I am starting this project this thursday and I am sure it will become my weekend project, I am not looking foward to it. I did get both gaskets, the dealer actually recommended it to me. By the way the dealer wanted $500 to do this job, the two gaskets only cost me $15. But I am sure once I get into the job I'll wish I paid to have it done.
My local library only had manuals up to 1990 so I was out of luck there. I happened to stop by Advanced Auto today and I was lucky enough to find a Haynes manual for 1993-2000 Nissan Altimas and to my surprise after reading the removal and instalation procedures it sounds like the manual might be right...we'll see. I did find the Haynes and Chilton Manuals online, but I didn't want to wait for it.
Thanks again for your response.
Let me know how yours turns out...I might need some pointers this weekend.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

giorno said:


> Thanks for the response.
> I am starting this project this thursday and I am sure it will become my weekend project, I am not looking foward to it. I did get both gaskets, the dealer actually recommended it to me. By the way the dealer wanted $500 to do this job, the two gaskets only cost me $15. But I am sure once I get into the job I'll wish I paid to have it done.
> My local library only had manuals up to 1990 so I was out of luck there. I happened to stop by Advanced Auto today and I was lucky enough to find a Haynes manual for 1993-2000 Nissan Altimas and to my surprise after reading the removal and instalation procedures it sounds like the manual might be right...we'll see. I did find the Haynes and Chilton Manuals online, but I didn't want to wait for it.
> Thanks again for your response.
> Let me know how yours turns out...I might need some pointers this weekend.


youre going to be slightly happier after reading this. OUT of the car, i can remove a 2000-01 intake manifold in about 20-30 minutes versus about 1.5-2 hours for my 94. on the car, of course, it will take a bit longer. word of advice. get yourself a small handled 1/4" drive ratchet with both a shallow 12mm socket and a deep 12mm socket. this will make life much easier. *DONT FORGET* to change out all hoses and vacuum lines while the intake manifold is out. beleive me, this is a well taken step and youll thank me later. also take this chance to replace your pcv valve. good luck guys and dont use silicone, its not needed. please dont overtorque and break any studs on the install either.


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## giorno (Aug 22, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> youre going to be slightly happier after reading this. OUT of the car, i can remove a 2000-01 intake manifold in about 20-30 minutes versus about 1.5-2 hours for my 94. on the car, of course, it will take a bit longer. word of advice. get yourself a small handled 1/4" drive ratchet with both a shallow 12mm socket and a deep 12mm socket. this will make life much easier. *DONT FORGET* to change out all hoses and vacuum lines while the intake manifold is out. beleive me, this is a well taken step and youll thank me later. also take this chance to replace your pcv valve. good luck guys and dont use silicone, its not needed. please dont overtorque and break any studs on the install either.



Thanks for the advice


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

In the Haynes Maunual that I picked up it says you have to drain the Cooling system because there is a hose that passes right in fornt of the throttle body. Is there a trick to avoid this??




AsleepAltima said:


> youre going to be slightly happier after reading this. OUT of the car, i can remove a 2000-01 intake manifold in about 20-30 minutes versus about 1.5-2 hours for my 94. on the car, of course, it will take a bit longer. word of advice. get yourself a small handled 1/4" drive ratchet with both a shallow 12mm socket and a deep 12mm socket. this will make life much easier. *DONT FORGET* to change out all hoses and vacuum lines while the intake manifold is out. beleive me, this is a well taken step and youll thank me later. also take this chance to replace your pcv valve. good luck guys and dont use silicone, its not needed. please dont overtorque and break any studs on the install either.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

Da_mikester2003 said:


> In the Haynes Maunual that I picked up it says you have to drain the Cooling system because there is a hose that passes right in fornt of the throttle body. Is there a trick to avoid this??


drain the coolant in the radiator only to a level that is below the throttle body. theres also a coolant passage by the #1 cylinder.


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

Thank you. I guess I should have asked this at the same time: Is there anything special (aside from letting the pressure off) that I need to know when removing the fuel delivery stuff on top?




AsleepAltima said:


> drain the coolant in the radiator only to a level that is below the throttle body. theres also a coolant passage by the #1 cylinder.


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## b1wyatt (Aug 28, 2005)

*INTAKE Gasket*

Hello every Im a Soldier Stationed in Germany and I have a 2001 Altima with 70,000 miles My car started Idleing rough then finally the check Engine lite Just came on. this took about a week to occur. I took it to a Nissan Dealer here and they trouble shooted it and finally while on a Lift they sprayed Brake cleanng fluid on the #4 intake poer from the bottom and found that the gasket is bad. I ordered the Gasket from the US it cost Me 6.50 for a felpro set . I will try to fix it my self I do have a manual. I hope this fixes the problem. From what I have read here it seem that should fix it.. thanks for letting me read and Ill keep you all posted in the future of what happens. mabye im driving to fast on the autobon here the average speed here is 90 MPH anything less and you will be passed all day. but its FUN.
First Sergeant Wyatt
First Armored Division


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

Da_mikester2003 said:


> Thank you. I guess I should have asked this at the same time: Is there anything special (aside from letting the pressure off) that I need to know when removing the fuel delivery stuff on top?


not really... just dont lose the rubber grommets and if possible, replace the o-rings on the injectors.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

b1wyatt said:


> Hello every Im a Soldier Stationed in Germany and I have a 2001 Altima with 70,000 miles My car started Idleing rough then finally the check Engine lite Just came on. this took about a week to occur. I took it to a Nissan Dealer here and they trouble shooted it and finally while on a Lift they sprayed Brake cleanng fluid on the #4 intake poer from the bottom and found that the gasket is bad. I ordered the Gasket from the US it cost Me 6.50 for a felpro set . I will try to fix it my self I do have a manual. I hope this fixes the problem. From what I have read here it seem that should fix it.. thanks for letting me read and Ill keep you all posted in the future of what happens. mabye im driving to fast on the autobon here the average speed here is 90 MPH anything less and you will be passed all day. but its FUN.
> First Sergeant Wyatt
> First Armored Division


welcome to the board Top. pretty much, what you need to know is in this thread. just take your time and you shouldnt have too hard a time. just make sure you give yourself a couple days time in case you run into trouble.


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## giorno (Aug 22, 2005)

Well I finished this pain of a project. I had about 8-9 hours of total work time,within three days. I do have some advice for those who about to take on this challenge.
First off...be patient. Make sure you remember were everything goes. Have a few 12mm open end and box wrenches, swivels for your rachet availible and when you think you have everything unhooked, look under the manifold and unhook the two rubber hoses on the pass side.
Also two sets of gaskets is not a bad idea, incase something should happen, like when I was ready to install the manifold I went to get the gasket from my bench only to find out it had a rip in it, from the dealer, making it useless.
I had to overnight the gaskets from a local auto parts store, this time I bought two.
Be prepared to fight with the bottom three bolts...like I said you definately need patience.
You also need to totaly remove the top two corner studs from the head, they are removed like a normal bolt, same thread, lefty loosy.
I almost forgot, this info is priceless, after you are all put back together and you are filling the radiator, you will need to bleed the air from your cooling sys. There is a small bolt dirrectly under the dist. cap near the bypass hose. You will need to take this out to release the air or your sys will not circulate.
So far mine is running fine.

Good luck to all

If you have questions feel free........


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## dailygrind (Aug 31, 2005)

i'll give you guys a little secret tip but if you don't have alot of experience it might not be the best idea for you you only need the intake to head gasket do not seperate the two intake halves once you have removed every thing you need just slide the intake back as far as you can it will only be a couple inches max get a good scraper and make sure you get all the old gasket off on the new gasket the two top ends go over studs carefully cut the bottom of these holes carefully put the gasket in and bolt it back up saves a ton of time


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

dailygrind said:


> i'll give you guys a little secret tip but if you don't have alot of experience it might not be the best idea for you you only need the intake to head gasket do not seperate the two intake halves once you have removed every thing you need just slide the intake back as far as you can it will only be a couple inches max get a good scraper and make sure you get all the old gasket off on the new gasket the two top ends go over studs carefully cut the bottom of these holes carefully put the gasket in and bolt it back up saves a ton of time


ive never seen the purpose of separating the halves... ive done this about 4 times or so and havent split them yet. about to do it again in a couple days...


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## dailygrind (Aug 31, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> ive never seen the purpose of separating the halves... ive done this about 4 times or so and havent split them yet. about to do it again in a couple days...


i did say there is no reason to split the halves alot of people do it though


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

Ok everyone, I am in the middle of the teardown process for replacing the intake manifold gasket. It says in the Haynes book that you should remove the collector first and then unbolt the manifold. I don't see how that is any benefit because I can't see how the collector can come out before the manifold does. Unless the starter is removed an then it will only drop down a little. Having said that, I also can't seem to get a wrench on the lowest 2 center intake manifold bolts that go to the head, it seems that if the collector was out of the way they might be easir to get to. Any suggestions?? And in a previous post, someone said to completely remove the studs at the upper corners of the intake manifold. Is this true as well? Thanks in advance. (2000 Altima)



dailygrind said:


> i did say there is no reason to split the halves alot of people do it though


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

Da_mikester2003 said:


> Ok everyone, I am in the middle of the teardown process for replacing the intake manifold gasket. It says in the Haynes book that you should remove the collector first and then unbolt the manifold. I don't see how that is any benefit because I can't see how the collector can come out before the manifold does. Unless the starter is removed an then it will only drop down a little. Having said that, I also can't seem to get a wrench on the lowest 2 center intake manifold bolts that go to the head, it seems that if the collector was out of the way they might be easir to get to. Any suggestions?? And in a previous post, someone said to completely remove the studs at the upper corners of the intake manifold. Is this true as well? Thanks in advance. (2000 Altima)


i went out and bought myself a tiny 1/4 inch drive ratchet just for those two. helped a lot. as for removing those studs, i can see how they would help if they were removed. i just havent removed them before. which collector are you referring to? the collector is on the exhaust manifold?


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

man...I can't get my hand inside of there to operate a ratchet. And by colletcor, I mean the bottom half of the intake manifold. Thats what they call it in the book anyways. Ok...I'll keep trying...thanks!! 




AsleepAltima said:


> i went out and bought myself a tiny 1/4 inch drive ratchet just for those two. helped a lot. as for removing those studs, i can see how they would help if they were removed. i just havent removed them before. which collector are you referring to? the collector is on the exhaust manifold?


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## Da_mikester2003 (Aug 18, 2005)

*Done!*

Well 2 days later and a minimal amount of blood, the job is done. I appreciate all of the help and input everyone provided. The only thing I can add to this process that mad it much easier for me was pulling the starter. It's only 2 bolts and it made the 4 lower (difficult to get to) bolts much more accessible. I was able to remove them with a standard box end as opposed to a small 1/4" ratchet. Just a personal experience thing which I'm sure is up for debate. Anyways, Thanks again everyone!



Da_mikester2003 said:


> man...I can't get my hand inside of there to operate a ratchet. And by colletcor, I mean the bottom half of the intake manifold. Thats what they call it in the book anyways. Ok...I'll keep trying...thanks!!


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## b1wyatt (Aug 28, 2005)

*Installed INtake Gasket*

Hello Every one I replaced the intake gasketlast saturday. It did fix the problem and now runs great. I didnt remove it I just slid it back and it gives you about 3 inches to scrape the gasket. you all where right it was a bitch to get to a few bolts. but I sure saved alot of money aqnd time thanks to you all. 
thanls for the advice. I do hav one more Question. My back passenger window wont go up any more, i there a recall or know isue with this?

take care
Brian


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

*Intake Gasket Leak*

It appears that this intake gasket leak around cylinder 4 is very common on these Altima KA24 engines. I have a 00 GXE with this problem but wondering if simply retorquing the bolts down will eliminate this leak? Hard to believe that a gasket would go bad like that - seems more likely that the assembly line robot didn't torque the bolt on #4 end enough. Anyone agree - disagree?

G


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## b1wyatt (Aug 28, 2005)

*Agree*



gfriedman said:


> It appears that this intake gasket leak around cylinder 4 is very common on these Altima KA24 engines. I have a 00 GXE with this problem but wondering if simply retorquing the bolts down will eliminate this leak? Hard to believe that a gasket would go bad like that - seems more likely that the assembly line robot didn't torque the bolt on #4 end enough. Anyone agree - disagree?
> 
> G


I did notice the Two bolts were loose but I also noticed that my gasket was burnt or cracked there. it is only 6-10 dollars and well worth the investment to do it your self.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

*Makes Sense*



b1wyatt said:


> I did notice the Two bolts were loose but I also noticed that my gasket was burnt or cracked there. it is only 6-10 dollars and well worth the investment to do it your self.


Thanks. That does make sense that the gasket would get damaged there as the hot gas passes through the leak. I was just wondering if this leak problem is caused by head/manifold warpage or just loosening of the bolts. But I guess either way the effect is to damage the gasket unless it is caught early enough.

Presuming just tightening the bolts down will not fix my problem and I need to replace the gasket what is the easiest way to get this done myself? Reading the previous posts and what I could gather from the Haynes manual I have these questions?

1) Should I remove the starter to access the bolts?
2) Haynes says it is easier to separate the 2 halves of the manifold to get access to the bottom bolts but someone said it is better to not separate them.
3) Can I do all the work from on top of the car or do I have to go underneath?

Thanks very much
Gene


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

*Window Recall*



b1wyatt said:


> Hello Every one I replaced the intake gasketlast saturday. It did fix the problem and now runs great. I didnt remove it I just slid it back and it gives you about 3 inches to scrape the gasket. you all where right it was a bitch to get to a few bolts. but I sure saved alot of money aqnd time thanks to you all.
> thanls for the advice. I do hav one more Question. My back passenger window wont go up any more, i there a recall or know isue with this?
> 
> take care
> Brian



Hi Brian,

I noticed a recall section on the www.nissanhelp.com website. They might have the info about the window there. I was also wondering if this intake manifold problem should be covered by a recall. I know it is not a safety issue but seems like it is definately a manufacturing defect. I guess there would have to be lawsuit to get them to recall it.

Rgds
Gene


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

*Split Intake Manifold*



dailygrind said:


> i did say there is no reason to split the halves alot of people do it though


Seems like HAynes says it is easier to get to the bottom bolts if you take the top half off first. If you don't split them is there a trick to make it easy to get to the bottom bolts?

Thanks


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

b1wyatt said:


> I did notice the Two bolts were loose but I also noticed that my gasket was burnt or cracked there. it is only 6-10 dollars and well worth the investment to do it your self.


Well, you were right, tightening down the bolts didn't make a bit of difference. I'm now faced with replacing the gasket. Everybody says the bottom bolts on the manifold are a bitch to get to. Even Haynes says they're difficult. I don't have small hands. Should I attempt this or bring it to the shop. Do you get at them from on top or from underneath the engine? 

G


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## b1wyatt (Aug 28, 2005)

gfriedman said:


> Well, you were right, tightening down the bolts didn't make a bit of difference. I'm now faced with replacing the gasket. Everybody says the bottom bolts on the manifold are a bitch to get to. Even Haynes says they're difficult. I don't have small hands. Should I attempt this or bring it to the shop. Do you get at them from on top or from underneath the engine?
> 
> G


A 1/4 drive set and regular wrenches did the trick. Im 6 Feet and big hand and I did it in about 4-5 hours. also like the previous post said go ahead and replace the PCV Valve. you will need to work from the top and bottom but you do not need to Split the intake. Good Luck and let us know how it went.
Brian


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

b1wyatt said:


> A 1/4 drive set and regular wrenches did the trick. Im 6 Feet and big hand and I did it in about 4-5 hours. also like the previous post said go ahead and replace the PCV Valve. you will need to work from the top and bottom but you do not need to Split the intake. Good Luck and let us know how it went.
> Brian


Awesome. Thanks dude. Appreciate the help. I'll go out and buy a big box of bandaids as I'm sure my knuckles are going to get shredded this weekend.

Later,
Gene


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

*HELP - I'M STUCK!!!!!!!!!*



b1wyatt said:


> A 1/4 drive set and regular wrenches did the trick. Im 6 Feet and big hand and I did it in about 4-5 hours. also like the previous post said go ahead and replace the PCV Valve. you will need to work from the top and bottom but you do not need to Split the intake. Good Luck and let us know how it went.
> Brian



HELP!!! I was able to get to all 9 bolts on the manifold except the lower one that's second in from the passenger side. It's kinda above the oil filter. It seems impossible to get to - I tried every angle. I removed the starter which helped with the other lower bolts. But this last one has the oil filter flange in the way. I didn't split the 2 halves of the manifold. Do I take out the oil filter flange or split the manifold??? How did everyone else get to that bolt? Thanks guys... I really need your advice here.

Gene


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## b1wyatt (Aug 28, 2005)

*HELP*

WHat I did was to use a Box and opened end Wrench and turn 1/8th a turn at a time and that is what took the most time. I saw that Craftsman has a wrench that has a built in wratchet device, that might make it easier.
Patients is the best way.
Good Luck
Brian


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## DbestiZ1 (Oct 28, 2005)

gfriedman said:


> HELP!!! I was able to get to all 9 bolts on the manifold except the lower one that's second in from the passenger side. It's kinda above the oil filter. It seems impossible to get to - I tried every angle. I removed the starter which helped with the other lower bolts. But this last one has the oil filter flange in the way. I didn't split the 2 halves of the manifold. Do I take out the oil filter flange or split the manifold??? How did everyone else get to that bolt? Thanks guys... I really need your advice here.
> 
> Gene


For that bolt I had a helper. I used a small craftsman telescoping magnet and a stubby 12mm open box wrench. Place the magnet on the rounded part of the wrench then lower down to the bolt.

Get under the car with a flashlight and and put your hand or fingertips on the end of the open side of the wrench. By manuevering the wrench in this way you can rachet it then take it on and off of the bolt to readjust.


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## DbestiZ1 (Oct 28, 2005)

Did you guys take off the Throttle body, and the metal lines and stuff on in front of the egr. i moved the fuel rail but did not totally disconnect it, i also took out the air box. Does this sound right.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

DbestiZ1 said:


> Did you guys take off the Throttle body, and the metal lines and stuff on in front of the egr. i moved the fuel rail but did not totally disconnect it, i also took out the air box. Does this sound right.


Hey, that magnet trick on the bolt head is a great idea. Problem is I find it a real tough reach still especially since there is a hose that passes just below the bolt head. The only way I could get at it was to remove the IAC valve that sits just to the side of the manifold. With that out of the way you can get to that bi*ch of a bolt working from the top. It makes it pretty simple - only thing is you have to find a gasket for the IAC because it tears when you take it off (and most dealers don't stock it)

I didn't take off the throttle body or the air box but I did disconnect all the metal lines and stuff and even the the pipe going to the egr. 

In all, this is a MUCH MUCH more involved job than one would realize from reading the Haynes manual (pretty useless - they do a poor job explaining everything that needs to be done. I think I would spring for the factory 
service manual instead). Bottom line, this is a much more difficult job on certain altimas (mine is a 2000 GXE) - there is just so much sh*t to disconnect just to get to loosen the manifold. Oh yeah that reminds me that on my engine I had to take the studs out of the cylinder head cause the only way to move the manifold is up and out!!! You can't pull it straight out off the studs cause there is a metal hose connector right in front of it. I'm not sure what that valve is with the hose but it sits right next to the IAC.

I'd say depending on your finances, if you can get a shop to do this for $500 then it's well worth it.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

I read where one tech unbolts the motor mounts and uses a tranny jack to manuever the engine to get more hand room by the manifold. Seems like a smart move to me.

Now that I got to the gasket I can see what the problem is. The f*ckin gasket material is not rated to withstand the heat on the cylinder head. It's so brittle after baking from the heat that it just cracks like plastic. That's why it always fails around cylinder 4. The coolant passage is down at the other end at cylinder 1 so that side is nice and cool and the gasket never fails there. This is just plain shit engineering. I have never heard of an intake gasket failing so often as on this car. I'm just worried that the idiots at Nissan haven't upgraded the gasket material so the replacement gasket is going to get shot in a few years again. If that happens she's going to the junkyard.

No more Nissans for me...
Gene


PS I went and bought the factory service manual for this car thinking I would get some good detailed info on how to remove the manifold. There is NOTHING in there. All it gives you is an exploded diagram of the engine. Not one sentence about how to replace the gasket. It's amazing how this company is still in business. Honda kicks Nissans ass in every way.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

gfriedman said:


> I read where one tech unbolts the motor mounts and uses a tranny jack to manuever the engine to get more hand room by the manifold. Seems like a smart move to me.
> 
> Now that I got to the gasket I can see what the problem is. The f*ckin gasket material is not rated to withstand the heat on the cylinder head. It's so brittle after baking from the heat that it just cracks like plastic. That's why it always fails around cylinder 4. The coolant passage is down at the other end at cylinder 1 so that side is nice and cool and the gasket never fails there. This is just plain shit engineering. I have never heard of an intake gasket failing so often as on this car. I'm just worried that the idiots at Nissan haven't upgraded the gasket material so the replacement gasket is going to get shot in a few years again. If that happens she's going to the junkyard.
> 
> ...


funny how ive never had a problem with my intake gasket. i run nitrous quite often and have never experienced what you are saying. even the people i know with turbos have never had a problem with the intake gasket. i think this is something YOU are experiencing - not the majority of ka owners.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> funny how ive never had a problem with my intake gasket. i run nitrous quite often and have never experienced what you are saying. even the people i know with turbos have never had a problem with the intake gasket. i think this is something YOU are experiencing - not the majority of ka owners.



Yeah but you have a 94. This is a problem on 2nd gen mostly 98-01. I've read at least a dozen posts from people who have had the same problem and posts from nissan techs that see alot of these bad gaskets come into their shops.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

gfriedman said:


> Yeah but you have a 94. This is a problem on 2nd gen mostly 98-01. I've read at least a dozen posts from people who have had the same problem and posts from nissan techs that see alot of these bad gaskets come into their shops.


i may have a 94 altima but im running a 2001 ka. been running a 2000 engine for a couple years now and just installed a 2001 engine. never had a problem with intake gaskets. on this last one however, i used gray sealant on the water jacket as a precaution.


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

Is everyone use Nissan OEM intake manifold gaskets? Will we all have another failure in 50k miles?????

Has anyone tried the aftermarket gaskets from Felpro/Corteco/VictorReinz/Rol????????


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

2000SE said:


> Is everyone use Nissan OEM intake manifold gaskets? Will we all have another failure in 50k miles?????
> 
> Has anyone tried the aftermarket gaskets from Felpro/Corteco/VictorReinz/Rol????????


i use whatever gasket it is that checker sells. like i stated earlier, ive never had a problem with intake gaskets.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

2000SE said:


> Is everyone use Nissan OEM intake manifold gaskets? Will we all have another failure in 50k miles?????
> 
> Has anyone tried the aftermarket gaskets from Felpro/Corteco/VictorReinz/Rol????????



I stayed with the NISSAN GASKET - I've had too many problems with aftermarket stuff not fitting quite right. Hopefully Nissan has recognized the problem and modified the gasket material to last longer - we'll see. Hopefully it won't leak again before my wife decides to trade it in.... If it does it should only take about 8 hours to fix this time.


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## shrike96 (Nov 13, 2005)

Well i have the same problem on my wifes car. Seems like this can be done if you have time and take your time. What gaskets are need to do this job completely? Intake and???? After the repair with the service engine light go or will i need to reset it? Glad i found this forum before tearing in this.
thanks for your help and if you can offer any other tips or techniques i sure would apreceate that! Great tips in this thread.


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

On my reciept(warranty), they replaced the intake and throttle body gasket. 
Also, since the car is 5 years old, other worn components that are touched should be replaced. I'm thinking along the lines of vacuum, fuel, or coolant hoses. Sure beats haven't to worry about those components after going through the hassle of changing the intake gasket.

I've never had problems with quality aftermarket components. If my Nissan gasket fails again, Felpro will be the next replacement. Its the OEM Nissan's cost accountants accepting 'low bid' low quality gaskets that has created this problem. 

This is a COMMON problem on later Altima KA24de. I wonder if there was a supplier change when Nissan was in that financial wreck.

Just be glad that you don't own a GM product. They also suffer from intake gasket(another OEM issue) leaks. But, whent the GM gasket fails, your engine blows from the oil and coolant mixing. The only problem I had with my Altima was a CEL/SES :thumbup:


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

2000SE said:


> This is a COMMON problem on later Altima KA24de. I wonder if there was a supplier change when Nissan was in that financial wreck.


i still dont see this as a "common" problem. ive been around ka's for a little bit now and im telling you - its not common. if they arent failing on 00-01 engines with generous amounts of boost and nitrous - its not common, especially on a stock engine.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> i still dont see this as a "common" problem. ive been around ka's for a little bit now and im telling you - its not common. if they arent failing on 00-01 engines with generous amounts of boost and nitrous - its not common, especially on a stock engine.



How are you defining "common"? No maybe its not happening on 90% of the KAs but its happening way more than it should compared to other engines. If you haven't seen it I'd say you've been lucky. How many miles on your engine BTW?


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

shrike96 said:


> Well i have the same problem on my wifes car. Seems like this can be done if you have time and take your time. What gaskets are need to do this job completely? Intake and???? After the repair with the service engine light go or will i need to reset it? Glad i found this forum before tearing in this.
> thanks for your help and if you can offer any other tips or techniques i sure would apreceate that! Great tips in this thread.


1) gasket scraper - I found the single sided razor in the small plastic holder came in useful.
2) gasket remover solvent
3) 1/4 inch ratchet 10,12,14mm sockets extension bars and wobble joint
4) 10,12,14 open and box wrenches
5) labels for the fuel lines - they are easily mixed up
6) pliers for the hose clips
7) adjustable wrench for the egr pipe
8) IAC/AAC gasket - I had to remove the IAC valve to get to the bottom bolt 2nd from the right - others were able to lift and tilt the engine to get to it. That bolt is the toughest part of the job if you dont remove the IAC
9) bucket for the coolant and antifreeze if its time to replace it anyway
10) Small external torx socket for the manifold studs. I found a set at autozone for like $20. The one you need is the smallest in the set - I forget what size it is. I can look it up if you want to know. You need to remove the studs so the manifold can be lifted up and away from the engine. There is a hose pipe that blocks it from being pulled straight off the studs - great design! Anyway don't split the manifold like Haynes suggests and just move it back an inch or so to get in there and scrape the old gasket off.

And, just snug up the bolts don't strip or overtorque anything and you'll be OK.

Good luck... hopefully your wife will appreciate the effort more than mine did.

Gman


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

shrike96 said:


> Well i have the same problem on my wifes car. Seems like this can be done if you have time and take your time. What gaskets are need to do this job completely? Intake and???? After the repair with the service engine light go or will i need to reset it? Glad i found this forum before tearing in this.
> thanks for your help and if you can offer any other tips or techniques i sure would apreceate that! Great tips in this thread.



One more thing - remove the starter (its easy just 2 bolts) and it'll make your life easier getting to the bottom bolts on the manifold. Don't forget the 2 braces that hold the manifold. One has a bolt right next to the starter and the other brace is next to the power steering pump. (though some models have only one I've heard)

Gman


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## DbestiZ1 (Oct 28, 2005)

gfriedman said:


> One more thing - remove the starter (its easy just 2 bolts) and it'll make your life easier getting to the bottom bolts on the manifold. Don't forget the 2 braces that hold the manifold. One has a bolt right next to the starter and the other brace is next to the power steering pump. (though some models have only one I've heard)
> 
> Gman



Is it ok to use some gasket seal along with the oem gasket


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

DbestiZ1 said:


> Is it ok to use some gasket seal along with the oem gasket


No - do not use any sealant on the intake manifold or IAC gaskets. Just put a couple of bolts through the manifold and hang the gasket on 'em - the rest of the holes should line up perfectly.


For the IAC put the upper 2 bolts on then put it in position. If you position it first there won't be enough clearance for one of the bolts - the power steering line gets in the way.

Gman


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

gfriedman said:


> How are you defining "common"? No maybe its not happening on 90% of the KAs but its happening way more than it should compared to other engines. If you haven't seen it I'd say you've been lucky. How many miles on your engine BTW?


my first ka had about 165k miles on it and then the head gasket went on it. the next one - an 00 - went 65k (from500)miles until i blew a rod because it hydrolocked. of those 65k miles, about a good 35-40k were run on a 75 shot pretty regularly. the one i have now has about 80k miles on it and its an 01. ive had a total of 5 engines in that car. 2 died from a rod knock from who knows what. just happened more or less.


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

It is common enough that the dealer tech was able to debug mine 2 minutes and said that he sees it 'all the time'. Cheap OEM gasket! 
I'm glad that it failed during the warranty. 
30k miles on that repair. So far so good!

And, I'm still on my first engine. Maybe if you kept an engine long engine, you'd see the problem. Plus, you're using Checker gaskets. If they're Felpro, I'd wager that their quality is higher. N20 might even increase the life of the gasket since it 'cools'. And, of the thousands of Altimas, how many 2nd gens are turbo'd??? Not even enough to gather statistics on.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

2000SE said:


> It is common enough that the dealer tech was able to debug mine 2 minutes and said that he sees it 'all the time'. Cheap OEM gasket!
> I'm glad that it failed during the warranty.
> 30k miles on that repair. So far so good!
> 
> And, I'm still on my first engine. Maybe if you kept an engine long engine, you'd see the problem. Plus, you're using Checker gaskets. If they're Felpro, I'd wager that their quality is higher. N20 might even increase the life of the gasket since it 'cools'. And, of the thousands of Altimas, how many 2nd gens are turbo'd??? Not even enough to gather statistics on.


doesnt matter what gen it is. ka's are ka's as far as the altima ka goes. very minor differences between the 93-99 to the 00's and 01's. even the ka's in the 240's arent having problems in the intake area. not as far as intake gaskets go. we'll keep tabs on the ka youve got now and ill do the same with mine.


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## shrike96 (Nov 13, 2005)

Ok It's done!!! Took about 7 hrs to complete and the info i got here was priceless. Let me add my $.02 for what it's worth. First, this is not a one man job!! With out help i could never have gotten this back together. I needed help in placing gaskets and bolts etc. I recomend a friend to help, comfort and an extra set of hands. Second, that mother fu*king bolt second one in from pass side on the bottom is a bitch!!!! i did have to remove that icca thing and I did have to order that gasket but i did that in advance. To replace that bolt i cut a groove in it for a screwdriver. Placed it in the hole and use a screwdriver to run it down. After a few twists on the wrench and she was go to go.. The bolts on the icaa thing were the toughest to put back in. There is one that is near the power steering pump (i think) and it was tough because you had to have the gasket and bolt on at the same time and slide it in and line it up, definaly a 2 person job given the amount of room down there. After that it was just buttom her up and top off the coolant. Runs like a top but still has the ESE light one. 

Does anyone know a trick to get it to turn off?? I tried a method recommended in another thread with no luck. Had the battery off for a day and a half didn't work either. I told the wife to run it for a week, if it dosen't turn off i'll get a code read and reset it that way.

Once again thansk for the help in this project which cost me about $34 in parts plus a day to do.

Paul


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

shrike96 said:


> Ok It's done!!! Took about 7 hrs to complete and the info i got here was priceless. Let me add my $.02 for what it's worth. First, this is not a one man job!! With out help i could never have gotten this back together. I needed help in placing gaskets and bolts etc. I recomend a friend to help, comfort and an extra set of hands. Second, that mother fu*king bolt second one in from pass side on the bottom is a bitch!!!! i did have to remove that icca thing and I did have to order that gasket but i did that in advance. To replace that bolt i cut a groove in it for a screwdriver. Placed it in the hole and use a screwdriver to run it down. After a few twists on the wrench and she was go to go.. The bolts on the icaa thing were the toughest to put back in. There is one that is near the power steering pump (i think) and it was tough because you had to have the gasket and bolt on at the same time and slide it in and line it up, definaly a 2 person job given the amount of room down there. After that it was just buttom her up and top off the coolant. Runs like a top but still has the ESE light one.
> 
> Does anyone know a trick to get it to turn off?? I tried a method recommended in another thread with no luck. Had the battery off for a day and a half didn't work either. I told the wife to run it for a week, if it dosen't turn off i'll get a code read and reset it that way.
> 
> ...



Way to go! Youre right, an extra set of hands is great especially for passing the cold beers while working under the car.  Good you figured to cut a slot in the bottom bolt cause it is a slight angle for a socket wrench - but that's where the wobble joint came in handy for me.

As for the SEL, I am pretty sure the computer should turn off the light after it detects the condition has cleared - it may take a few drives though. If it does not turn off you can go to Autozone and ask them to clear it with an ODB-II checker. Possibly it is still on because another code has popped up - you might want to check that in case it's an electrical connector that you missed putting things back together.

Gman


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

The 2000-2001 KA24de engine in the Altima is unique. It is the hottest and cleanest running version of that engine. It will have its own issues caused by this environmental and NVH tuning. 
There are enough subtle differences. Back then, I test drove several new '99 and '00 Altiimas when shopping. IMO, the '99 was a rough dog compared to the '00! It had no midrange, no passing power, and the engine shook when pushed. 
And, I didn't see Nissan selling new 240's in 2000 or 2001. 

I'm also beginning to see other issues with this engine. There are more cooling system issues and other problems(like head gaskets, high cylinder head temperatures measured while driving..... and other cooling related failures) that weren't a problem on the earlier years. IMO, these newer years are less friendly to negligence. 

Either Nissan switched suppliers for certain products(like the gaskets) or their engineers overlooked the added 'heat' created in the engine compartment needed for cleaner emissions. I feel that its a combination of BOTH. 

I also haven't bother tracking whether the Cali emission'd cars have a more/less failure rate then the other states. My RI car came with Cali LEV emissions and has experienced the cooling issues and the intake gasket failure. I wonder if the failure rate is more with the LEV cars sold in Cali and the 3-5 states that copy CARB(like Mass where I believe my car was pulled from during dealer vehicle swapping).


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

2000SE said:


> The 2000-2001 KA24de engine in the Altima is unique. It is the hottest and cleanest running version of that engine. It will have its own issues caused by this environmental and NVH tuning.
> There are enough subtle differences. Back then, I test drove several new '99 and '00 Altiimas when shopping. IMO, the '99 was a rough dog compared to the '00! It had no midrange, no passing power, and the engine shook when pushed.
> And, I didn't see Nissan selling new 240's in 2000 or 2001.
> 
> ...


That's an excellent and very interesting observation. My '00 GXE is a Cali model sold in CT. I wonder what percent of the KA24DE's with the intake gasket problem are the Cali model. I think you're onto something since it seems to me that excess heat around cylinder 4 is causing the gasket to fail. 

Will everyone who has had the gasket problem please check what model you have and report back? To get the model look at the label on the driver door pillar. Look at the last 3 letters of the Transaxle Code. If it's -UVA its a Cali model.


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## shrike96 (Nov 13, 2005)

The light is out and life is good!! Wife reported it turned off and the car is running smooth. Hell i might get a reward out of this yet, if i play my cards right. :thumbup:


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

gfriedman said:


> I think you're onto something since it seems to me that excess heat around cylinder 4 is causing the gasket to fail.


thats the #1 cylinder INTAKE gasket where the water jacket is. theres not going to be excessive heat from the cylinder. not anymore than there is from any other cylinder. remember, youre talking about the INTAKE side of the engine which is considerably cooler than the exhaust side.


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## 2000SE (Oct 28, 2002)

A few things come to mind:
hot engine shutdown--some intake valves left open
heat soak when you shut the car off(especially in the summer)
EGR exhaust gasses
PCV oil vapors
normal contraction/expansion torture seen in northeastern climates due to seasonal temperature swings

It really doesn't take too much of an effort to destroy a questionable quality gasket. 

Somethings that I consider as causes for my failure:
CARB/LEV emissions---different/aggressive environmental ECM tuning and more backpressure/heat from extra catalytic.
Northeast weather---my car is parked outside year round where temperatures vary from -10 to 100F degrees.
Engine was assembled on a Monday morning or Friday evening.
Nissan cheaped out and switched suppliers on the 2nd gen to save a buck!

Someone posted a picture of a leak here:
http://www.nocoastmusic.com/car/intakemanifold/gasketleaks.jpg

Notice that the leak is "outward". Normal engine running would provide an inward leak(engine vacuum). Vapors escaping outward would happen when??
Reread above what 'comes to mind'. You'll figure it out.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

did you notice that both of those gaskets where they are leaking are adjacent to a bolt? it would make more sense to me that the bolts werent torqued correctly. notice the water jacket isnt leaking at all. substantially more pressure there just from water pressure alone - especially during shutdown. thats an older ka too. that thing could have a couple hundred thousand miles on it easily. while you no doubt had an intake gasket leak on your particular engine, im still not convinced that it is a "common" problem. there are a couple people here that you could ask for a better, more educated answer. _morepower2_ and _KA24DETech_. morepower is a nissan guru. he writes stories and builds cars for a major magazine and is nissan engineer if i recall correctly and is also one of the co-owners of this site. ka tech is just that - a nissan tech. both guys are very knowledgeable. ask them and see what they think. i myself would be curious to see their response.


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

AsleepAltima said:


> thats the #1 cylinder INTAKE gasket where the water jacket is. theres not going to be excessive heat from the cylinder. not anymore than there is from any other cylinder. remember, youre talking about the INTAKE side of the engine which is considerably cooler than the exhaust side.


Reread what I said. "The gasket around cylinder #4 is where most of the failures are happening" Where did I say anything about cyl #1? Are you telling me that heat buildup from a cylinder that is next to the water jacket is going to be the same as a cylinder that is on the other end of the engine? No way.

What does the exhaust side of the engine have to do with this??? We are talking about an intake manifold gasket that is made of entirely different material than an exhaust manifold gasket which has asbestos in it and is designed to withstand exhaust heat.

Please, I respect your opinion on alot of matters but you are not aiding the discussion here. Nissan has a design defect on its hands and is being deceptive about the practice of selling California vehicles outside of Ca which voids the warranty which specifically covers this gasket defect. 

I am starting consumer advocacy campaign against Nissan in this regard and fully expect them to issue a recall or a warranty extension in the near future on this matter.

Gman


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

2000SE said:


> A few things come to mind:
> hot engine shutdown--some intake valves left open
> heat soak when you shut the car off(especially in the summer)
> EGR exhaust gasses
> ...



Dude, I'm in the same boat. Car is in the northeast and parked outside everyday. Probably the engines came off the assembly line at the same time.

I'm going to answer by combining more backpressure from extra cat and EGR gas caused the outward leak? I saw that picture too but didn't look closely enough to spot the stains outside the leaks - good sleuthing on your part.


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## Asleep (Jan 19, 2003)

ok, im reading everything you guys have to say about these intake gaskets but i im still NOT seeing that its a common problem. in all honesty, i think the idea that they were monday & friday built engines is more plausible. i dont see where 00-01 engines are hotter than previous ka's. the 00-01 models still run at the same timing, they still run the same plugs, they still have most of the same basic components. the 5 extra hp came from a slightly different cam profile and a freer flowing exhaust manifold. other things included a lighter valvetrain which is going to DECREASE some of the normal strain associated with your typical valvetrains. i dont understand how all of a sudden you 2 have these extra-different ka's that have a "common" problem. like ive stated before, ive been around ka's for a little bit now and you guys are the first to claim this. start backing it up with truth, facts and statistics. until then, its just conjecture on your part. im gonna close this thread and you guys can start a new one in the general altima forum. im not closing it to shut you up, im closing it to allow you to start a new thread discussing this and only this issue so you can start building a case - so to speak. not saying im the final word either, im open for debate anytime.


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