# Front strut top bolts



## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I will be changing my front struts over the weekend. I am curious if any one can give some advice for dealing with the top bolts inside the engine bay. It doesn't look like there is room to get socket head on to the rearmost bolt on either side, and it also looks like space may be limited for torqueing down the actual strut bolt. Looks like I will have to remove firewall insulation and part of the plastic that holds the wiper assembly to clear some room to get at it. Is there any other way? Love to hear from someone who has done the job.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well the answer is yup. You need to remove the upper cowl and the bolts along both side fenders to be able to free enough space to move the lower part of the cowl so that you can get at the back upper strut bolt and for final torque of strut center bolt. Also according to the service manual the rotor needs to come off to get at the lower strut bolts. I am unsure as of yet if this is for reasons of space to acess them or to take off weight from the axel arm so that nothing comes apart when you separate the strut from the hub.
I am surprised there are no threads on replacing the struts on the X Trail. Closest I can find are ones talking about strut bar installation. People seemed to be having headaches with the back bolt trying to get if off with an offset 14mm wrench. And this is back when their XTrail was only a few years old. I figure it would be even harder after 8 years, so wasn't going to buy the tool to frustrate myself. Best to take time to dissemble sufficiently so that it can be worked on properly. For those wondering its the same as videos you can see on Youtube for replacing the struts on a maxima. However there is a bit less space under the X trails hood. 

Will report back when I do the job.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well I hadn't reported back, so happy to say job done. Must admit it drives better and handling is tighter. Can't wait to do the back ones to get the full benefit.
For anyone wanting to do this, you can get away with just removing the passenger upper cowl section. If you remove drivers side fender top metal bracket, the cowl pushpins, and place wipers in top up position, you can create enough space to get a ratchet on the drivers side strut mount bolt at the rear. You may also need to move or remove air intake air filter housing.

Finally, I did not remove the calipers or rotors to do the job. I supported the control arm with a jack stand, and used my tire to rest the brake assembly on. However, it would be easier to install struts without these in the way, though it adds to the job.

After compressing the springs had a hard time getting the right side strut top mount off. From what I could tell, the strut shaft twisted in the top mount, so that the flat side of the top of the shock arm was no longer properly aligned with the corresponding slot in the mount. It was the side with the bigger problem.

Anyway replaced both struts, strut mounts and strut boots. I used KYB for all. Got everything from Rock Auto. 
The strut mounts I ordered where for a Murano, however its the exact same part as ours only difference is the bolt size which is larger so keep your old top strut mounting bolts to reuse. Part number is KYB SM5409.

For the bellows or strut boots, I used KYB SB104, again for a 2005 Murano. Comes with a different style bump stop that does not press in the same way the old ones did, but they work fine. They are a bit of a generic model that is used on a lot of vehicles. Can also be used for the rear struts. 

For anybody wondering the originals were in fact made by KYB and the Nissan parts still are. And of course, their price is more than double Rock Auto's, even after exchange rate and delivery costs!


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## rhsquicksilver (Mar 9, 2015)

This is a great write up. Thanks for sharing! Wish I had more experience to help in cases like this. Although we don't have the X-trail here, I imagine the manufacturing and hardware (and therefore maintenance) for similar-class vehicles is the same, as you suggested.

Happy driving!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Actually , your 2014 Rogue is the same as the new t32 X trail sold in Europe, Asia, Latin America and down under with very minor differences. Might consider one if only I could find one with X trail badging. However with the new front struts, its driving better than ever. Its a really great vehicle, lighter and more capable and fun to drive than the new Rogue which I tried and wrote a bit about. Even has the giant sunroof but mine opens the entire length, climate control and heated seats. Other than recent air bag recall, which I have yet to get around to, not a single one ever, nor even a single warranty claim for a non wear item. Finding parts here in NA is sometimes tough, but I have learned it shares lots of parts with some Infinities, Muranos and other Nissans with the QR25DE engine. Thanks for the kind words.


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## rhsquicksilver (Mar 9, 2015)

Ah, very good to know. Anytime! I have yet to scan my VIN as well, but the only issue so far is a failure to start after a brief turnover to switch parking spaces. I found the hard-start procedure (ill-advised) in another Nissan forum that cranked it right up. Never another issue since.


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