# 521 *beginners* project



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

hellooooooooooo datsun enthusiasts from all corners of the globe. i recently hauled a 1970(?) 521 (1600) into my garage to try my hand at this sort of thing. i've never even changed my own oil but i've always wanted to try my hand at it and explore the world of bruised knuckles, go-jo, and the like. way back when i was always mixing and matching bike parts just to see what i could do... i know (i know i know) this will be a whole different kind of project with a whooole lot more moving parts and details which is why i figured i'd just start one big general help thread. i'm going to try to get the best pictures i can, at least on the engine work and such. thanks in advance for the help.

now for pictures..................
























not bad for $500 right? mini-oil spill!








pretty dirty on the inside but whatever.








went ahead and grabbed a new battery. it most certainly needs a new negative contact because this one's barely even there.








even i know this is no good.








previous owner was a diy'er as well it seems. i wouldn't be the least bit surprised that the headlights don't work, but everything else does! turn signals, flashers, even wipers and even the f'n ac!








at the moment my biggest issue is a more-than-catastrophic oil leak. you can see it in one of the first pics. it was the first time we started it up, the engine sounded about like shaking a few tin cans around, so we put 3 cans of oil in it and tried again... after no more than 30 seconds of revving, at least a third of it was on the ground. it looks to be coming from where the crankshaft(?) meets the fanbelt(?) (the belt runs from the fan, to the alternator, to the lower half of the engine, which is where the leak, or at least the majority of the leak, seems to be coming from.) for now, i'm just going to slowly tear through the pieces down farther and farther while i save up for a jack to attempt to remove whatever is necessary.








1973????
























who are these guys? is one the brake fluid reservoir because we also have no brakes.  i figure once i fix the oil leak, i'll worry about brakes and considering there is no apparent brake fluid, adding some might fix it right? 








this guy?








the hose connected to this bad boy was lucky enough to dangle freely amongst all his tied down friends. not connected to anything. possibly cut?








this thing is held in by a nail jammed in on one side. whatever it is, it's contacts aren't all connected.

i've got some work to do............ :newbie:


----------



## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

I dont see any pics 
sounds like a bad front crank seal...
I would check the brake shoes, try bleeding the system and hopefully that should bring your brakes back..


----------



## Ben1 (Nov 12, 2010)

Looks like a nice little project.

I'm new to the forums too, but some tips:

The thing "held in by a nail jammed in on one side" is your ignition coil. It's what takes the voltage from the car's 12V to the 40,000 volts it needs to arc across the spark plugs. Disconnected wires may be for tachometers, factory diagnostic ports, emissions, and aftermarket add-ons. I'd try to follow where they go. They may be wholly unnecessary.

The disconnected line on the valve cover looks like some sort of breather hose connection. It may go to the carb, or some missing emissions equipment. I'd at least plug it up or you'll lose engine vacuum.

The reservoirs in back look like brake fluid reservoirs. Does this car have a hydrolic clutch? If so the other one is probably the resorviour for the clutch master cyl. If it's completely out of fluid and your brakes aren't working, adding fluid won't fix your brakes as there's air in the lines. You need to add fluid and bleed them by opening each wheel cylider bleed port while the pedal is applied. It's pretty easy. Google "brake bleeding procedure" for additional details there.

The tube sticking out by your radiator cap should go to an expansion tank or you'll lose antifreeze. You can buy an aftermarket universal tank at any auto parts store for like $10. It should have all the connections you need to install it.


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

oo good info. i'm currently waiting on my hayne's step by step so i actually know what i'm looking at in there. anyway... since i got it home it won't start for me. i'm thinking since i saw it run once or twice before we got it here it's not a compression problem or electrical. i'm thinking it's carburetor trouble. what does it sound like to you guys? it does have a brand new battery and spark plugs. would it have hurt anything that i added fresh gas? we ran it after i added the gas so i wouldnt think that would be it...?


----------



## Ben1 (Nov 12, 2010)

datsun5211600 said:


> oo good info. i'm currently waiting on my hayne's step by step so i actually know what i'm looking at in there. anyway... since i got it home it won't start for me. i'm thinking since i saw it run once or twice before we got it here it's not a compression problem or electrical. i'm thinking it's carburetor trouble. what does it sound like to you guys? it does have a brand new battery and spark plugs. would it have hurt anything that i added fresh gas? we ran it after i added the gas so i wouldnt think that would be it...?


There are three things an engine needs to run:

1) Spark
2) Fuel & air
3) Compression

If your engine won't run, it means one of those three aren't there. You need to investigate each one at a time (Spark and Fuel are most common, if you lose compression it's a much more serious problem).

Start out checking the spark by taking a spark plug out of the block, placing it so it's touching a solid metal portion of the engine block and have someone crank the engine (DON'T TOUCH IT WHILE IT'S CRANKING). You should see a nice strong spark between the electrodes. If not, start investigating, your rotor, coil etc.

If it's not a spark problem, you can take the line off the carb and crank the engine and make sure it's coming out (collect it in a cup). If not, it could be a bad fuel pump or clogged filter.

If the carb smells badly like gas, it could be flooding out. If so try starting with the pedal to the metal (leave it there, don't pump!). It's possible the float is sticking, tapping on the carb assembly can make it unstick.

Could be a malfunctioning choke. Try putting your hand over the mouth of the carb while cranking and see if that makes it fire.

Lastly to check compression you'll need a compression gauge, one at a time take out the plugs and screw it into the engine block. All four cylinders should have a reading within 5-10 of the rest, if one is low it means you have some real engine troubles.

Good luck.


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

problem after problem after problem. i think i tried to start it too many times and the battery seems to be dead. it is a brand new battery but if the engine's not running, the alternator's not charging correct? if so, i need a battery charger for the garage, correct? once i get the battery back, i'll check my spark plugs and connections and everything. my book should be here by then too.  for what it's worth (not much since i really don't know much about what i'm saying), i'm really feeling like it's carb issues. should i buy a rebuild kit or just spring for a new carb and start fresh? it's definitely more expensive for a brand new one but it would eliminate any further carb troubles. :-/ side note: it has developed a flat tire while sitting in the garage... even after it's 150 mile journey last week. a good omen if i've ever heard one. it's just trying to embarrass me now. thanks for the help!


----------



## Ben1 (Nov 12, 2010)

Yes, definitely get a battery charger, or use jumper cables to a running vehicle when working on it. Try not to let the battery discharge, you can ruin a brand new battery pretty quick by discharging it a few times. The battery will only charge when the engine is running.

Don't make the mistake of just throwing parts into the car. Don't buy a carburetor or rebuild kit until you've narrowed it down and are sure that's the problem. It probably isn't, carburetors almost never suddenly go bad.


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

ok... got my battery charger, as well as my book, new spark plugs (why not?), and a new ignition coil. it now starts incredibly well for a 40 year old truck although it wouldn't idle for me when i started it up the past few times. it just died after a few seconds... BUT i'll worry about that later because i have a worse problem...









<br /> 
found my oil leak 









<br />
one for reference of exactly where we are








<br />

how do you think this came about? it's really pretty impressive. whats even more impressive is that it ran for a good 15 minutes with NO oil before i knew anything about the truck. i feel pretty bad about not turning it off back then now. i wish i knew about this at the time too because i could've paid like $200 for this damn thing if even that much. anyway... the hole is on the front cover so if i can find someone who has extras that should be a pretty solid fix. hooray for interchangeable parts! is there a step by step anywhere for removing the engine just so i can be sure i'm not overlooking anything? it wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild and clean things while i have the engine out too however this is a little bit more than i'd planned on considering this is my first attempted mechanical venture. i think i could manage it but should i even try? the margin for error would be so small and if i screwed something up it'll probably never move again. where should i go from here? i'll go ahead and do a compression test today just so we have a general idea of what's going on in there.


so my next question... where could i find a replacement front cover?


----------



## Ben1 (Nov 12, 2010)

No doubt you put a lot of wear on the engine running it without oil, but it may not be irreparably damaged.

I can't tell where it's leaking from the pictures. Is it your oil pan? Is it coming out of the crank pulley seal? If so, your engine doesn't need to come out to replace it. Regardless an engine removal is going to be over your head for a first project. Try to find someone with some experience who'll look it over for you, it may be a simple fix.


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

nope, there's a hole about the size of a quarter in the front of the actual front cover of the engine. i'm surprised you can't see it in the pictures. it's going to have to be replaced for sure. i suppose i could take the front cover off without taking the engine out but the front cover itself isn't gonna be part of a working vehicle ever again. like pull out the radiator, fan, etc...







piece #30 at the very bottom immediately behind but not affecting the crank seal


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

did a little looking around... it shouldn't be that difficult to find one on ebay or a datsun/L16 specific forum somewhere now i'm just worried about what else i'll find popping the old piece off.


----------



## colt45 (Dec 17, 2010)

thats a beast of a hole. just a thought but what ever did that may of done other damage. check out the front end and steering components for broken bent and other wise damaged parts. super cool you taking on this project. every person should have one


----------



## fsu1tm (Dec 16, 2010)

I just started my project too but I have much further to go. My truck was my grandfather's. After he passed and I got it, I had to let it sit outside in the weather for 12 years because of no place to store it. I finally have a place and am just getting started. Now I have to do a body-off restore to get all of the rust off from top to bottom. There's a few rust through spots that I'll have a body shop deal with but most of the rust is just cosmetic. Keep posting as you go. Maybe we can be of help to each other. This is my first restore but I've dabbled to auto mechanics for years, replacing head gaskets, rebuilding carburetors, replacing clutch plates, etc. I have no problem with pulling the engine, transmission, steering, or any other part. Keep your fingers crossed for me and I’ll do the same for you.

Here's two pics of mine. As I said. A long way to go.



















P.S. I’m with Colt45 and wondering what made that hole. Look carefully at the hole and see if it looks like it was made from the inside or if something hit it from the outside. You can tell by the way the metal broke.


----------



## fsu1tm (Dec 16, 2010)

Looked at your pic again and unfortunately it looks like the hole was created from the inside. I would not crank the engine again until the front cover is pulled.


----------



## colt45 (Dec 17, 2010)

yikes. fsu, you would apear to be correct from the pics. bummer deal. pull her and she and see whats the deal


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

well the lovely craigslist ad said it need a new timing chain, which i figured woundnt be a huge deal considering the truck did start and even idled for a few minutes before it died. it turns out, the old chain was so loose that (im assuming all this of course) in coming over the top of the camshaft and down the tight side somehow it got slack enough to grab the top of the tight side chain guide and tear it to shreds, poking a hole through the bottom of the front cover. luckily for me it was in enough pieces that it found a nook in the cover to avoid the chain any further but needless to say there were a few parts to be replaced. luckily, 3 packages later we're on the up. once i get this thing all patched up ill update again. anyway, the guys over at ratsun.net know their stuff and are extremely friendly... id definitely recommend anyone in a similar situation to go check them out. also datsunminitruckin.com. my usernames are the same on those two as this one. here's my thread over at ratsun

hey and good luck fsu. that looks like one hell of a project. youre downright admirable for taking it on rather than scrapping that beautiful piece of machinery sir. best of luck


----------



## SirSedrith (Mar 24, 2011)

so hows the project going?


----------



## datsun5211600 (Nov 11, 2010)

Didn't realize I never updated over here. Well I'm definitely more familiar with the truck than I was when I last posted hah. The more I think about it the more I think genius me was the one that put the nail in the coffin for that engine. I ran it with very little oil and let it run until it until it died. No coolant either. I just wanted to get some use out of my garage and spare time and knew not a thing at the time. I'm not giving up on it though. Since I replaced the front cover I did a few other things to see if it was salvageable i.e. head gasket, valve lash, etc. No dice. The rings are so smoked it was spitting oil out the tailpipe. Compression was something like 100-105 for 1,2, and 3, 80 for #4. Couldn't run it for more than 5 mins without choking on the smoke. $600 later I'm looking at a rebuilt l20b, and head (not to mention another in the works), and an 84 720 5 speed. This thing will run. If it kills me it will run and it will run well. Since I am still new at all this I'm taking it slowly. One thing at a time, figure out mistakes, tear-down, do-over, repeat, repeat. Once I get the guts in and bleed the brakes again (leaking cylinders ) it should be good for INITIAL test drive. I'm feeling the love for it but I'll feel a lot better about it on the road. After reading your thread I'm even more inclined to go electric btw. Pics of yours?


----------



## SirSedrith (Mar 24, 2011)

Well since your considering another engine of the same capacity, alot of datsun guys take the (i think its called) sr20 engines, the one in the nissan pathfinder with the dual overhead cams and dual turbo charger, and shoe horn that in. itll make your truck pretty beefy. and you can get a fwd transmission that bolts right to it. 

Another option is to have the original engine bored and possibly sleeved. they make the piston holes bigger and insert sleeve tubes into them, making the overall piston size bigger, and then you get oversized pistons and you have really light engine with more gas space to compress. 

but good luck with all that. i know how you feel about work and work well. Ive been at mine for like 2 years straight, and just now got it running. i bought a weber carb for it and it was missing pieces, i finally found out when i finally took it to someone who finally knew something about it. Now it runs great, a little back fire here and there, but when its warm it doesnt. Now comes the cosmetic work and gauges etc.

If your brakes are leaking you need to get a rebuild kit for them, new gaskets etc will stop that, but look inside the cylinders and see if there are scratches etc inside them. that may be the problem. look in the brake cylinders and the master inside the engine compartment. if its scratched you have to hone them out or have someone do it for ya. and then you can use the rebuild kit. THEN you can bleed them. but if your going through all that trouble, you might as well put disk brakes all around. they stop you MUCH better, its gonna be a project for me soon. I cant stand drum brakes, they scare me.  I found out how to convert them on another forum along time ago and will search it out again if i have the time.

Ive never done the electronic but ive heard nothin but good things. when it comes time to change the points i think im gonna replace it with hall effect system. 

sure, Ill get some pics later, I seem to remember in your pictures that you had a weber carb on yours as well. you should hang on to that, its a really good carb. is it electric choke or a manual?


----------

