# For all those using a SAFC2+cobra maf



## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

I was just wondering what sensor type worked best when using the cobra maf with the SAFC2, i know the n62 maf is 2 in 7 out, and this is for a ga16det, any input is welcome thanks. :waving:


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

why are u using a safc 2 with a cobra maf in the first place lol?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

i dont see why not and i got it cheap so is it not going to work is what ur saying? or is it that im not going to use the cobra maf to its potential?


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> i dont see why not and i got it cheap so is it not going to work is what ur saying? or is it that im not going to use the cobra maf to its potential?


its not gonna help you any, it might cause problems if ur just using safc, make sure u dont run more then 6-7 pounds with the safc, unless you have a way to control your timing, how much u plan on running whats ur set up?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

im running 9 psi because thats what the waste gate opens at and its a T25BB from a g20, and what do you mean control the timing, i thought you keep it stock when you go boost?


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

man really you dont wanna blow your motor, go with a jim wolf ecu or emanage ultimate, i blew my motor with a safc and it was tuned at 9 pounds. just lettin u know safc 2 is shit lol it a cheap way out that not worth the risk., right now i am 50lb injectors , cobra maf and jwt ecu with build bottom end, i dyno's 330 at 25psi


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

well the only reason i went with a safc is b/c i dont plan to go higher than 9 psi. im running 259cc injectors , and your the first person i know that has blown a engine with the safc, and the sentra channel people have had a good tune with the safc and the highest he went was 10 pretty sure.

And if someone could chime in on the sensor type that would be great, anyone please?


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> well the only reason i went with a safc is b/c i dont plan to go higher than 9 psi. im running 259cc injectors , and your the first person i know that has blown a engine with the safc, and the sentra channel people have had a good tune with the safc and the highest he went was 10 pretty sure.
> 
> And if someone could chime in on the sensor type that would be great, anyone please?


plenty of people have, u will blow your head gasket. but if u dont wanna listen to me, guess you will have to learn the hard way. better to do it the right way the first time


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

let me make this clear not everyone has the money to pay for jwt and if your getting good air flow ratio you would have no reason to blow a head gasket, plenty of people use the SAFC2 and im sorry you had such a bad experience but maybe you did something wrong or just boosted to high, did you use a wideband


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> let me make this clear not everyone has the money to pay for jwt and if your getting good air flow ratio you would have no reason to blow a head gasket, plenty of people use the SAFC2 and im sorry you had such a bad experience but maybe you did something wrong or just boosted to high, did you use a wideband


na everything was good and i did have a wideband i was boosted at 9-10 pounds and had a good tune made 197whp i was doing a highway run one day well like 3 days after i got it tuned lol, and i blew the head gasket and blew a hole in my radiator i was pissed cause everyone told me not to use a safc for more then 6-7 pounds unless i could control the timing, but if u just boost 6-7 pounds u should be good with the safc thing that sucks is u gotta retune for pretty much everytime you change ur boost or weather conditions since winter your car will make more power then summer, but if u wanna go any higher u wanna get a something to retard ur timing, msd makes something that retards ur timing for boost, cant remember what is called tho, i would just hate for u to blow your motor since ur on a buget... and if u change ur mind about the jwt, i have like eight 370cc injectors and 2 extra ecu's and a 240sx maf, i will sell it dirt cheap for ya to help ya out....


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

wait how did you get a hole in your radiator? and when you retard the timing what is a good time i think 10 is stock right so maybe bring it back to 8? and how much would that jwt cost, injectors etc?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

need help finally got it up and running but can't seem to find which sensor type to choose tried a bunch of different combinations but she just revs up to 2800 or holds 1200 1100 and then stumbles and dies, im really suprised no one is using a cobra MAF with a SAFC2, anyone please?


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Most people dont use cobra maf they use N60 or Z32 maf's. You could invest in a Jwt ecu i know they have a cobra maf program for there ecu's.


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

hook up the stock maf, and seee what it does, it seems like the ecu isnt even pickin up the cobra, u dont need the cobra with a safc2 cause u are alterning the maf, o and u can have the injectors for 50 bucks. and ecu for 50 bucks, u gotta ship it off the jwt , they charge 600 dollars , but hey no more tuning or dyno time


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

i blew the headgasket and all that pressure went through the radiator


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

thanks for the input but i just took off the cobra MAF i gave up on it, but i did buy a e60 the newer version of the N60, from 95 to99 maxima, pretty sure its a sensor type 4 and my car is a HW 6 so running 4 in 6 out should make her purr


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

You made the right call as I believe the SAFC does not support the Cobra MAF.


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Let us know how it goes

btw wes, you need to fix your links 2 of 3 of them dont work, NPM has been out of business for years lol


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

2dr_Sentra said:


> Let us know how it goes
> 
> btw wes, you need to fix your links 2 of 3 of them dont work, NPM has been out of business for years lol


Haha yeah. Need to change them to motoiq..


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok so i installed it, and i can get it to idle but not that well much better than cobra, and when i get it to idle sometimes it will go rum rum rum rum like i keep pushing the gas pedal but im not, but missing with the deacl air .6% and 1% ne1 ne2 help fix this im going to keep trying


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

whats a normal oil pressure under idle and load, also for vaccum idle whats normal? i also didnt cap the egr could that be messing it up, maybe i will try that


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> whats a normal oil pressure under idle and load, also for vaccum idle whats normal? i also didnt cap the egr could that be messing it up, maybe i will try that


i dont know idle oil pressure, but at 50mph cruising mine is about 50psi.

Vacuum should be between 17-20 hg in or whatever terms they use.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

how is the throttle response for you guys because mine seems extremely touchy, just barley pushing the pedal will make it jump to 3 grand,its like i got a lighten fly wheel but i dont b/c its an auto but still real sensitive. i also need a good line to tee for my boost/vac gauge, should i try the FPR line?


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> whats a normal oil pressure under idle and load, also for vaccum idle whats normal? i also didnt cap the egr could that be messing it up, maybe i will try that


11psi at warm idle. Also oil pressure is RPM dependent so determine accuracy of PSI at a given mph you need to know the corresponding RPM.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> how is the throttle response for you guys because mine seems extremely touchy, just barley pushing the pedal will make it jump to 3 grand,its like i got a lighten fly wheel but i dont b/c its an auto but still real sensitive. i also need a good line to tee for my boost/vac gauge, should i try the FPR line?


FPR line is fine to use for boost, just use a separate line for the wastegate as that needs to go before the throttle body.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

When first started she jumps up to like 2800 until warm then she goes down to 950 rpm which doesnt seem right, but when warm she runs fine. And wes i have my wastegate atteched to the compressor side of the turbo outlet pipe, but if i hook it up under the intake penlum to the FPR then will i see both boost and vac because the gauge is both


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> When first started she jumps up to like 2800 until warm then she goes down to 950 rpm which doesnt seem right, but when warm she runs fine. And wes i have my wastegate atteched to the compressor side of the turbo outlet pipe, but if i hook it up under the intake penlum to the FPR then will i see both boost and vac because the gauge is both


Yes you need to have the gauge connected after the throttle body!


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok i will do that for sure then, and here is a pic of where i hooked up my bov think its in a good spot its the big line that goes to the c canister. I have also got a weird problem with the brakes they are really hard to push while running but i havent touched any of the vaccum lines to the booster and before i start the car they feel fine like i can pump them up to be hard. 

I also hooked up the stock MAF to see the difference and there was none idle was still the same 







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This line right behind the TB is where im goin to hook up the gauge look good?







[/IMG]


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

well i tried that line for the gauge and it still only sees vaccum do you got a pic of a line that i could use for both my bov and gauge, i have tried a bunch or am i not hooking it up right? 

And my brake problem is crazy why do they get really hard to push? the first time i push them they work go to push it again and its hard as hell to stop the car, please anyone i have check all the vaccum lines and they are fine, and yes the vaccum line for the booster is disconnected in the pic
heres pic of my setup 







[/IMG]


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

yeah vacuum is always after the throttle body


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

2dr_Sentra said:


> yeah vacuum is always after the throttle body


so ur saying i need to put a tee in one behind the TB and and one in front of the TB, so like the waste gate line tee'd and have that go to one side of the tee for the gauge and tee the line in the pic above behind the TB and have that go to the oppsite side of the gauge tee. 








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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Your O2 sensor should be after the turbo in the down pipe! 

I would not use the lines off the canister for those items. I would tee in off of the intake manifold directly. Many people tee off the FPR source. 

Lastly have you driven the car? The car will not make boost unless it is under load...


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

first how important is the o2 to have it after the mani why would it make a difference?

and the line in my picture with the red dot you are saying tee off there for both my Bov and gauge thats the fpr line that connects to the fuel rail, is that safe?

have driven never out of 1 st thou brake were being weird really hard to explain


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> first how important is the o2 to have it after the mani why would it make a difference?
> 
> and the line in my picture with the red dot you are saying tee off there for both my Bov and gauge thats the fpr line that connects to the fuel rail, is that safe?
> 
> have driven never out of 1 st thou brake were being weird really hard to explain


I would move it as soon as possible. It will likely run but you will fry sensors pretty quickly there especially if you are running really rich at first. 

Your car is a B13 right? The first pic. that is the hose I originally used to run my gauge, bov, and boost controller.

Again remember that you cannot free rev. the car in park and expect to see boost. If it is reading vacuum it will read boost, don't worry about that.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

yea B13 and that 3/8 hose in the first pic goes to the carcoal can, the smaller one 1/8 hose second pic with the red dot goes to the fuel rail, and you said not to use the one to the cannister


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> yea B13 and that 3/8 hose in the first pic goes to the carcoal can, the smaller one 1/8 hose second pic with the red dot goes to the fuel rail, and you said not to use the one to the cannister


my mistake. that line should work ok! I used the same line to run my stuff until I eliminated my EGR and then used that port on the IM for vacuum. Speaking of EGR is yours capped on the IM?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

egr is still there just not connected to any thing, and so that line is good to run both then ok so i will put that back on .


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> egr is still there just not connected to any thing, and so that line is good to run both then ok so i will put that back on .


Take the egr off and cap the IM. Otherwise you are trusting the EGR not to leak which IMHO I wouldn't trust under boost. FWIW the egr connects to a large hole on the intake manifold.

That or make a pipe to connect it to the downpipe.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok so i took it out for a drive and when she hits about 6 psi and then 9 psi it feels great. but i do think i have a vac leak b/c my gauge says that at idle i have 1 hg of vac give it a lil gas and it jumps up to like 15 20 hg, oil press is at 10 11 psi idle. is that because the EGR is open(not connected to DP)?so it can't create any vac i guess, not exactly sure how a EGR works. 

Do they have a aftermarket cap off thing i could buy to cover the hole?


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

The EGR recirculates exhaust gas under certain engine conditions. This means when it opens you will have bog issues, the car will run like crap... At idle it is likely not opening or the thing would probably die due to en extreme rich condition. I would make a block off plate from a piece of flat metal from the hardware store. You just need a drill, a hacksaw or dremel, an some rtv. Really simple.

I would check the gauge on another vac source like the FPR.


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

9 psi on safc with 259cc injectors? is ur car even tuned?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok i think i will block it off some time soon, it will probably fix the little things with bogging. i really think there is nothing wrong with the gauge seeing how my brakes become manual at times, when the gauge reads about 10 hg then my brakes will be there, i do have some sort of leak. 

and turbo200sx007 it is tuned, but just a base tune. dyno later but for now i just wont get on it that much, sounds and runs great no smoking or anything


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

If your car has boggi issues, vacuum issues, etc... You do not have a base tune. No smoking doesn't mean Jack either! Get the car on a wideband (proper one in the down pipe after the turbo with NO exhaust leaks between the turbo and the sensor! Unless you have done that you really have no idea what kind of tune you have..


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

the bogging is just when i let of the gas, and not really bogging just like a lil hard to find idle, i thought this was normal on a blow thru set up( idle a lil funky)

the only real problem is when i cold start it, it will rev higher then go rum rum rum for a lil then go into normal idle. but its weird because when it goes into norm idle then i can mess with the deac air setting, but while its first warming up its like the safc is not even on, and messing with the deac air does nothing


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

did it blow up yet lol?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

hahaha its like you want it to happen, nope still running strong. but i am gettin a wideband so that i know whats really going on

i figured out the idle thou all i have to do is put it in gear and it finds idle immediately but this is only when i first start it when warm she idles fine


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

We don't want it too, we just expect it too.


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## turbo200sx007 (Sep 2, 2007)

^^^ true true


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

when i move the o2 sensor to the down pipe whats the furthest i can have it from the turbo and when i put my wideband in should i put its o2 right next to it or like 3 in apart before after whats best?


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> when i move the o2 sensor to the down pipe whats the furthest i can have it from the turbo and when i put my wideband in should i put its o2 right next to it or like 3 in apart before after whats best?


Mine is about 2-3" after the turbo and the bung I put in for a wideband is about 2" below that.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

i could maybe put it 6 to 8 in away that still good its real close to the altenator maybe a lil closer 5 in goin to be tight


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Ineedmoney$ said:


> i could maybe put it 6 to 8 in away that still good its real close to the altenator maybe a lil closer 5 in goin to be tight


Nah you'll be fine as long as the thing doesn't wind up under the car.


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok so i installed the wideband 99% just need to weld the o2 in which i will do later. but i need to tune it like this right boost-high 11's low 12's cruising- 15 and idle 14.7?


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Mine cruising is around 14.5-15.0


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

ok so i got a problem i dont know how to fix, when cruising i get 14.5 to 15.5, under heavy gas and boost i get 11.3-7 but idle is i think extremely rich or lean the needle goes to the far right and doesn't read anything with like 2 hg vac, go to take off she reads 12.5 for a sec then goes into the 14 's and 15's, do i got a bad set of injectors maybe, or a blow thru set up problem?

also the green wire with the yellow stripe on the maf should i do something with this, is it another ground?


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## Ineedmoney$ (Jan 17, 2009)

found the problem that solved everything now she runs like a champ, the throttle cable was slightly to tight and it kept it barly above the little metal thing it sits on so at idle it thought i was giving it gas, so the computer told it to give more fuel and yeah problem solve and damn she sounds good. now i will take her out for a drive and tune her


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## bestb12injersey (Sep 11, 2007)

turbo200sx007 said:


> man really you dont wanna blow your motor, go with a jim wolf ecu or emanage ultimate, i blew my motor with a safc and it was tuned at 9 pounds. just lettin u know safc 2 is shit lol it a cheap way out that not worth the risk., right now i am 50lb injectors , cobra maf and jwt ecu with build bottom end, i dyno's 330 at 25psi


do you have a dyno sheet to prove that? just asking or pics of your set up? what internals are you using? i run an safc2 with 20lb of boost. and i run the car at 10psi when not racing. but as for the thread starters question, you can run that setup but timing will be an issue and can cause engine damage. you will need to retard your timing to compensate for the boost and fuel burning you should use a z32 maf or and n62 maf. you will not exceed the horsepower limits of a z32. i know, i blew 2 motors at 22psi and one at 24psi.the crank cracked and the pistons came out the side of the block.


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