# 94 D21 KA24e Head gasket job



## OoSKYLINEoO (May 21, 2010)

I am currently attempting to replace my head gasket, exhaust manifold is separated from the block, fuel rail disconnected, wiring harness out of the way and i only seem to be having a problem with removing the intake manifold (removed the 7 bolts 5 short 2 long and the t/b as well)

If anyone who has previous experience with doing this or helping someone else on here could please shed some wisdom on me I'd appreciate it. :fluffy:


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## dvdswanson (Nov 6, 2005)

the 2 long bolts you don't need to remove from the manifold. just so they are loose. you may also have to loosen the EGR tube on the back of the engine unless you've already taken it off the exh. manifold.


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## schmauster (May 18, 2010)

I think there is a bracket supporting the intake manifold.. I havent had it for a long time so i could be wrong. Should be black and triangle shaped to the rear of the oil filter, i think theres 3 bolts holding it on.


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## OoSKYLINEoO (May 21, 2010)

EGR is disconnected, I'll try the 3 bolts behind the oil filter. From what I've read everyone has a problem at this point in the process but for some reason no body has uploaded pictures of this seems like a common enough job maybe I'm just not searching the forum thoroughly. Thanks again though I'll let you know how it goes from here:fluffy:


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## schmauster (May 18, 2010)

Dont remove the oil filter housing just to be clear.. theres a triangle shaped black metal bracket that goes from the block to the bottom of the intake manifold


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## OoSKYLINEoO (May 21, 2010)

Yeah I figured that much, removed the entire I/M (should be fun putting all the hoses and ancient clamps back on). Finally got the head off to find the gasket WAS blown out like a 5 dollar whore. NOTE TO SELF DO NOT EVER USE A COOLANT MIX TO TRY AND REPAIR JUST BUY THE NEW GASKET worst 1.5 hrs and 10 dollars ever spent guess that's what I get for being cheap and impatient.
Only mistake I made was dropping the spring and metal shim from the chain tensioner down into the crankcase:balls: <-----ANY IDEAS



All in all not a bad day though just gonna do it right, take my time and clean all the shit the previous owner didn't have the courtesy to


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## schmauster (May 18, 2010)

Magnetic pick up tool at an autostore.. if its not magnetic then you're probably looking at dropping the pan if you cant fish it out. If it was leaking i'd pull it off anyways to reseal it


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## OoSKYLINEoO (May 21, 2010)

This was kind of what I had in mind seeing how there's a little more then "sweat" on the pan and fishing is just not my thing whatever its for. But the HAYNES aka good for nothing manual is telling me I need to hoist the motor (which is no longer possible with out the head attached) separate the differential blah blah blah is there another way because it looks like I can remove the motor mounts and just jack up the motor carefully of course and finagle the pan out and shizzam done; but please shoot this down if I am wrong don't feel like wasting my time nor getting crushed my my engine. Again thanks for the help and keep the good feedback/input coming :fluffy:


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## schmauster (May 18, 2010)

You should have to lift the motor up to get the pan free from the pickup tube. The best thing to do would be to get a chain long enough to go across to both of the motor mount to engine brackets, and lift from those. I pulled my motor a few times with 2 12mm bolts threaded into the head, should work okay in the block if you dont have a chain long enough, just make sure you get a lot of thread into the block and use multiple bolts.

If you drain the oil pan (you'll have to either way) you might be able to see the chunks in there with a flashlight, and fish them out.

Getting the pan off is pretty easy, just remove the crossmember with 2 bolts on each side that runs under the pan, and then its just the bolts that hold the pan on. Getting it off was a royal pain the first time. Try to not pry between the pan and block since i warped my pan rail that way. I got it off by using a jack putting pressure on the side of the pan and it finally came off.

Be sure you tighten those crossmember bolts as they do take pressure when in corners, if it isnt tight enough you will hear it clunk under hard cornering. I think they are rated around 80-100ftlbs.. i just use an impact or breaker bar and go crazy

I dropped a cam plug (half moon valve cover sealing thing) down the front cover and had to do what you are doing haha I still think you should try to fish it out, but taking the pan off and putting it back on should take less than 2 hours, but you will have sore elbows! (tennis elbow) ugh


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## OoSKYLINEoO (May 21, 2010)

Dude you need to go into detail on how you dropped the diff cause this shit is making me want to punch an infant.....did way too much work today for no results FAIL


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## nissan cry baby lol (Oct 11, 2017)

yes under left side of intake also metal tube runs from back intake to exhaust pipe I left the exhaust and exhaust manifold do fighting I jacked up it won I pulled head a intake and took apart outside mark all your wires and hoses to many for this old man to remember I miss the old 1 wire chevys


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