# 2006 t30 xtrail 2.0 petrol: Overheated



## Patibulaire (Nov 13, 2017)

Hi every one,
I just purchase an overheated xtrail (2.0 petrol) to give it a second chance. Long story short, previous owner tried to fix a radiator coolant leak but it did not worked. The car started to overheat, they stop the engine to fill more water but the car did not start again...
He tried to remove the head to have a look inside, but due to a lack of tools and workshop manual he quit the job and leave the car as it is, with the valve cover off, all the bolts in a bucket, camshafts off without puting piston n°1 on TDC and putting marks on camshafts sprockets and timing chain !!!!
After buying the car i drop the cylinder head which was warped, mainly between cylinders 2 and 3, cylinder block is not. 

At this stage I have 2 main questions:

- Is there any major problem with the wet sleeves after an overheating event ? I'm not familiar with wet sleeves, is there any seals between the cylinder bloc and the sleeve or is it just pressed in ? any water leak possible between the cylinder block and the crankcase ?

- Now i need to match the yellow and orange chain color with crankshaft and camshat sprockets, which involves dropping the timing chain cover... Is it possible to only drop the lower oil pan and oil strainer without dropping the upper oil pan completely (the one where the oil filter is mounted) ? It seems that only 3 bolts from the upper oil pan are attached to the timing cover, am I right ?

Any other advice on overheated engine will be more than welcome !
Cheers !
Pat


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The QR25DE engine uses wet cylinder sleeves which encompasses sealing rings. When the engine is excessively overheated and operated for a long period of time, many times permanent damage is done to the sealing rings which result in coolant leaks. A leak-down test is a way to determine if and where there is sleeve damage. Sleeve replacement can be performed in shops equipped to do this and it's expensive. Generally most people just replace the entire engine.

I believe to remove the timing chain front cover, both upper and lower oil pans need to be removed; the problem being is access to the oil pickup strainer which is attached to both the oil pump and the engine block itself.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

He has the qr20de not the qr25de engine, but I assume they are very similar. I am pretty sure the service manual covers that model as well, so here is a link

https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan/x-trail-2006-4143

Its safe, works and all sections are available for downloading. Good luck bringing it back to life. Where are you located by the way?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

quadraria10 said:


> He has the qr20de not the qr25de engine, but I assume they are very similar. I am pretty sure the service manual covers that model as well, so here is a link
> 
> https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan/x-trail-2006-4143


Sorry for the oversight. They both are the same general design with the stroke being different and the FSM does cover the both of them.


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## Patibulaire (Nov 13, 2017)

Thank you for your quick feedbacks and for the manual !



rogoman said:


> I believe to remove the timing chain front cover, both upper and lower oil pans need to be removed; the problem being is access to the oil pickup strainer which is attached to both the oil pump and the engine block itself.


Accordind to the manual, the oil pickup strainer is removed before dropping the upper oil pan. I will give it a try as I do not want to struggle with the exhaust line... I will let you know if it's possible.

I'm from New Caledonia, a french territory island in the Pacific Ocean: life is quite expensive over there and so is the car industry (parts, tools, services...).


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## otomodo (May 23, 2008)

Patibulaire said:


> I'm from New Caledonia, a french territory island in the Pacific Ocean: life is quite expensive over there and so is the car industry (parts, tools, services...).


Everything is expensive on a island, but the rhythm of daily life is very different.


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## Patibulaire (Nov 13, 2017)

Hi every one,
I finally made it! I tried to remove the timing front cover without dropping the upper oil pan, but I failed. The combined effect of RTV sealant and dowel pins at the downside of the cover makes it impossible to remove the cover without leverage. That's why the upper oil pan needs to go down also... Lots of work in addition (especially scrapping off old gaskets) but no tricky part if you follow the manual instructions.
I cranked for about 15 seconds before it starts to run. Now, idling is high (2000 rpm) and fluctuating (between 2000 and 2500 rpm) as someone is pressing the gas throttle. I waited for a minute but idle did not calm down to a regular rpm...
Are you familiar with this kind of situation after rebuilding an engine ?
From what i started to read it could be related to pedal, throttle valve and idle air learning procedures ?
Cheers,
Pat

PS: I also need to check if every connections are in good condition


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