# just blew my head gasket



## 313ryans (Jan 11, 2005)

Took it out for a test drive after giving it new plugs, injectors, hoses. I guess all the extra pressure was too much. It died at a stop light. Oil coming out of the block, white smoke out of the muffler...head gasket.

So now I am looking at a major pain in the ass job, that can be done relatively cheap...but then this engine probably needs all belts, hoses, maybe ground valves, may have a rod knock...

So before anything I have to take off the oil pan to check out the connecting rods. THe Chiltons manual says I have to take off the stabilizer bar and side member, and use a jack with a piece of wood to raise the engine slightly on its mounts. Anyone care to elaborate on that for me? I do not recall oil pans being so complicated to take off.

My friends are all busy, and my buddies dad with the 4 car garage is going to Chicago for the week. I do not know what the hell I am doing when it comes to the 60 or so steps my Chiltons book spells out. The timing stuff and hooking up wires makes me nervous. It has been a real long time since I messed with an engine problem like that. LIke when I was 15 and my dad had to change a head gasket. It sucked. 

Or I can swap the engine. Don't think I could handle that one on my own either, but my friend's dad may help me out a few weeks from now. It would have to be a low miles ka24de, or maybe a cheap CA. Doubt I can afford rb/sr at this point. Can't afford much really. I don't know which option I have that is less daunting.

Anyway, I am in a tough spot now so any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

313ryans said:


> Took it out for a test drive after giving it new plugs, injectors, hoses. I guess all the extra pressure was too much. It died at a stop light. Oil coming out of the block, white smoke out of the muffler...head gasket.
> 
> So now I am looking at a major pain in the ass job, that can be done relatively cheap...but then this engine probably needs all belts, hoses, maybe ground valves, may have a rod knock...
> 
> ...


Sounds to me like you have a good excuse to do an engine swap!
That might be your best option!


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

I don't know WTF Chilton's is talking about. Raise the engine on the mounts? What the hell for? Just drain the oil (if it didn't already drain itself) and take off the pan. Good luck.


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## OPIUM (Aug 18, 2002)

swap it out, and sell the existing motor to someone that wants to turbo it...


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## 313ryans (Jan 11, 2005)

...That oil pan actually is a pain in the ass. It is almost impossible to get to the bolts without raising the engine, and I may end up having to remove the stabilizer bar. Plus it was 35 and snowing and I was on the driveway, I am down there getting hypothermia and my neighbors frikkin pitbull pisses on the tarp I laid down. I swear to god that thing is takin a red ryder (old blue) shot to the nuts first thing in the morning. Maybe dipped in some dave's insanity sauce. If that doesnt do the trick a 5.56mm hornady flechete round will make sure it doesnt breed. DO I sound irritated?

If I do go with another engine, I may prefer a ka24de. I just did my homework and noticed that those other engines are 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines. I just don't see the advantage in paying more for less liters, I can turbo later. I saw someone on a web site get like 700hp out of a ka. Not that I want/need that ever. An earlier post on KA-t upgrades helped inspire my train of thought. Plus my dads a Harley guy, gotta have the bigger engine mentality. 

I really want reliability though. I've noticed quite a number of 240sx's having KA's with blown head gaskets for sale cheap. I want to research a bit on my options. I may go with a few inexpensive parts to give my ka24e a bit more hp...somewhere between 175 and 200. I am looking for maybe a high performance cylinder head, if mine is warped. Air intake stuff. Something that will discourage another blown head gasket would be tops on the list.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

313ryans said:


> THe Chiltons manual says I have to take off the stabilizer bar and side member, and use a jack with a piece of wood to raise the engine slightly on its mounts. Anyone care to elaborate on that for me? I do not recall oil pans being so complicated to take off.


To remove the oil pan, the motor needs to be jacked up about one or two inches so that when the pan is separated from the block, you can remove the oil pickup. If you remove the stabilizer bar, it makes it so much easier to remove the pan.


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## DaCheat (Nov 4, 2004)

rogoman said:


> To remove the oil pan, the motor needs to be jacked up about one or two inches so that when the pan is separated from the block, you can remove the oil pickup. If you remove the stabilizer bar, it makes it so much easier to remove the pan.


Taking notes for the future!
Might help when I have to check the bottom end on my engine...
Or during the swap!


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## 313ryans (Jan 11, 2005)

...found that cylinder drain plug. It was covered in muck...just a coolant drain under the block.

...yeah, gotta go do that oil pan now the right way.

...Borrowed my uncle's ford escort for transportation till I get the 240 situated. Helps out a ton. Stinks like cigarettes and I must check for any forgotten narcotics. Be a little awkward when the drug dogs at my high school start sniffin the car. English teachers making art teacher jokes and all.

...Played need for speed underground 2. Did some virtual drifting in a 240sx that was almost identical to my own. Bittersweet describes the experience.

...Wife sprayed "dog be gone" for the pitbulls benefit. And we like our neighbors, even though they neglect their animals. But sorry dog people, I never was a dog person. Pitbulls are bred to kill around these parts. I have a 2 year old and 3 year old boy that it wants to eat.


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