# About this 5th gear poping out...



## Guest (Nov 8, 2002)

That's funny. I had a Nissan Sentra 91 running fine, with a lot of millage(156000 miles), and lately, the 5th gear begun to pop-out. It was happening without any reason, once in a while... But in the middle of October, it stopped working completly... And since I have to do drive on the highways for a while to get to work, it obvious that I needed to repair it...And since I was hearing a lot of different stories about the cause of this failure, I did not know what to do... 

Anyway, this car was eaten by rust, brakes needed to be changes, heater was not working fine.... I decided, well, let's buy a new one... 

So I have found another Sentra Xe chassis(B-13), but a 94. Not much rust on it, nothing to repair except "top-plates", milage(99000)... The guy was selling it to me for 1900$(USD), with 2 sets of tires... I think it's a good dead..But now, looking on this forum, I just notice that this "5th Gear poping-out" problem is common... I find that scary!  (Could be really expensive)... Anyway, I know we can't really tell, but do you think that it's the majority of Sentras B13 that suffer from this problem? Knowing that it MAY happen, is there something I can do NOW to prevent this?


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## Zexel (May 15, 2002)

It's only a major problem on SE-R's. Since that 94 is an XE, I wouldn't worry too much. I haven't had a problem on my 91 XE yet. Actually I haven't really even thought about it. On SE-R's it's bad, don't remember the % of them that get it, but it's defiantely up there. So I don't think you have anything to worry about! And if you're really worried about it, go ahead and rebuild the tranny when you get it. Good luck on the car!


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## Guest (Nov 8, 2002)

Thanks for answering! 

Well, my 91 was a XE, and I got that 5th gear popping out problem... So it was probably a bad luck???  

Anyway, I got my new one last week. It running fine! Really confortable, very responsive!  I'm happy with it...

Only little annoying problem is my 2th gear... It's hard than the other one to get in... Any idea on what can cause that? Should I change the bushing, or it's the tranny again? 

Also, I have cruise control on it but it doesn't seem to be working... Any idea on where I could check to change that? 

Finally!!!  I have to change my Spark Plugs... Any suggestions on what I should buy?? 

(Thanks for helping me out with this)


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## Centurion (Sep 5, 2002)

Plugs: I get them off of the shelf (platinums)at Wal Mart, very cheaply, AC Delcos I think. Put Never Seize on the new plugs!

Trans: Change the fluid regularly to hedge your bets.


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## Zexel (May 15, 2002)

On your cruise control, is the plug-in actually plugged in? Like if you go out at night, and push the ON button for the Cruise Control, does it light up?? If it doesn't, then it's just not plugged in. When we did my tach my friend forgot to plug mine back in, but I need to stop using it so much anyways. I'm just lazy I guess. But if it DOES light up at night, make sure it's plugged into the steering wheel. It should be unless an airbag deployed, which we don't have airbags (At least I don't!). And if it is plugged in and still not working...I'm just stumped!


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## Guest (Nov 8, 2002)

Yeah it is. When I press ON the light under it lights up. However, I can't set a speed. It's like the buttons on the steering whell are not connected. 

I'll have to double check if they are...I don't have any airbar...

Do you have to press a long time on the SET to get it in place? Maybe I just don't know how to use it!  In my friend's car, he just need to push the SET button for 2 seconds and it kicks in.


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## Zexel (May 15, 2002)

Every once in a while my button doesn't like to work. So hit the ON button and make sure that back lights up, and then just push kinda hard on the SET button. And if it doesn't work, try and push Cancel and then Resume and/or Set. I think maybe just your buttons aren't hooked up correctly. And I've never been in my steering wheel or taken it off before, so I can't help you if they aren't plugged in. Sorry.


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## b13nissan (May 1, 2002)

deejays said:


> *Thanks for answering!
> 
> Well, my 91 was a XE, and I got that 5th gear popping out problem... So it was probably a bad luck???
> 
> ...


I've had 5th gear popout on my 92se. It set me back $850 for the repair at a local tranny shop. They had to get the new (revised) 5th gear from the dealer.


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

If you ever need to replace your tranny (cheaper than a rebuild or popout fix) get a newer tranny out of a b14 or something, I think they don't have the 5th gear issues. 

For your cruise, here's what my FSM says to do:

Turn A.S.C.D. main switch "off" and "on" to make sure indicator illuminates. If that checks out ok then check the power supply circuit for teh A.S.C.D. control unit. To do this, turn the main switch "on" and check the voltage between control unit harness terminals 3 and 4. (the control unit is just to the right of your fuse panel under the dash, it's this harness you'll "backprobe" as it needs to be connected to the control unit while checking) If voltage does not exist, check for continuity between control unit harness terminal 4 and A.S.C.D hold relay (located on the bottom left of the control unit). If voltage did exist, then check the cut-off circuit for the A.S.C.D. control unit. To do this, check voltage between control unit harness terminals 5 and 3. If no voltage was present, check the A.S.C.D. cancel switch, A.S.C.D. clutch switch (M/T models) and inhibitor switch (A/T models). If voltage was present, then check the set/coast switch circuit for A.S.C.D. control unit. To do so, with the ignition off, push and hold the set/coast button while checking for voltage between the control unit harness terminals 2 and 3. If there is no voltage, check to see if your horn works. If the horn works, check the Set/Coast switch itself, if the horn didn't work, check the fuse and horn relay. If voltage did exist, then check the speed sensor circuit. To do so, you need to jack up the front end of the car and set your parking brake. Check for voltage between control unit terminals 3 and 8 while turning the front wheel slowly. If the voltmeter didn't move any, check the speed sensor itself. If the meter did move, then check the A.S.C.D. pump. If the pump checks out ok, then check the pump circuit. To do so, with the control unit harness plugged in and the ignition turned on, check for voltage between terminals 3 and 8. It should be 0V. If there is voltage present, there is a short or open circuit in the pump harness. If there was no voltage, then turn the ignition off and disconnect the harness from the control unit. Measure resistance between control unit harness terminals 8 and 9, 8 and 10, and 8 and 14. Resistance should read as follows: between 8 and 9; about 8-45 ohm's, between 8 and 10; around 65 ohm's, and between 8 and 14; around 65 ohm's. If any of these resistances were not correct, the control unit needs to be replaced. 

Now, what if you had to check out any of those components? Well here's how to check them:

A.S.C.D pump and actuator:

Disconnect the pump harness (the pump is located behind the driver's side shock tower in the engine bay) from the pump. Connect a piece of wire to your battery's positive terminal and the 1 spot on the pump's eletrical connector, and ground the 4. If the pump didn't start it needs to be replaced. If the pump did start, then check to see if the wire is pulled when 12 volts is applied to the 1 terminal on the pump connector, with terminals 2, 3, and 4 being grounded. If the wire wasn't pulled, disconnect the vacuum hose from the pump and check for vacuum pressure when the pump is run. If there was no vacuum pressure then the pump needs to be replaced. If there was vacuum pressure, then try replacing the vacuum hose that goes from the pump to the actuator. If it still doesn't work then your actuator needs to be replaced. If the wire was pulled during the previous set when you had voltage to terminal 1 and ground to 2, 3, and 4, then check to see if the wire returns to it's original position 50 to 60 seconds after you disconnect terminal 4 from ground. If the wire returned immediately, replace the pump. If it doesn't return until 50 to 60 seconds have passed, disconnect terminal 1 from the battery to see if the wire returns immediatly. If it doesn't return immediately, then replace the pump. 

A.S.C.D. steering switch:

With the harness disconnected from the switches check continuity between terminals by pushing each button.

Set/Coast terminals 1 and 2
Resume/Accel terminals 1 and 3
Cancel terminals 1 and 2 and 1 and 3

I skipped the other stuff since you'd have other problems which you would have noticed other than just your cruise not working. Let me know if you need more help.

Here is a half assed rendition of your control unit harness, viewd from the harness side (the side you see the wires coming out of):

________|__|_________
|2 |1|X|9|3|10|13|12|X|X|
|11|7|X|X|5|4 |8 |14|X|X|

X's indicate unused terminal locations in the harness.

The pump electrical connector (on the pump itself, not the harness that connects to it) is like this:
___ 
|__|
/1|2\
\3|4/

Hopefully this will help, I spent 2 hours copying it for you. 

As far as spark plugs go, the plugs of choice seem to be NGK. Then there are the Bosch haters out there, but I had Bosh Platinum +4's in my '93 XE for years and never had a problem, got great gas mileage as well. I'd say go with NGK's though.


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## Guest (Nov 9, 2002)

Wow!!! That's what I call information!   

I'll print that out and check that out within this week to find out what is going on!!!  

Thank you very much!!!! It is well appreciated!!! 

Have a good Weekend!


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## jingjing (Apr 29, 2002)

Zexel said:


> *It's only a major problem on SE-R's. Since that 94 is an XE, I wouldn't worry too much. I haven't had a problem on my 91 XE yet. Actually I haven't really even thought about it. On SE-R's it's bad, don't remember the % of them that get it, but it's defiantely up there. So I don't think you have anything to worry about! And if you're really worried about it, go ahead and rebuild the tranny when you get it. Good luck on the car! *



nope. they also have 5th gear popout on the 1.6 models as well. mine has been doin it for over a year and a half. my friends has for over 2 years. another just started earler this year. from what i heard, the b14 1.6 models had the 5th gear popout taken care of. good luck with your new ride.


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## Rgmacedo (Oct 8, 2002)

*5th gear popping out...*

I had no idea that this problem was happening this often. I called up Courtesy Nissan and they told me they have never heard this happen before on a 1.6l model. 

Well, I have a B14 tranny and installed a Phantom limited-slip. I can't wait to get it in the car. And hopefully I don't have to worry about this 5th gear problem again...


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2002)

I just can't believe that so many people had this problem and that a lot of Nissan Dealer told me that this problem do not exist!  

One of them even told me that they never replace an old tranny on the B13 chassis! I have a hard time believing that...

I'll change my Tranny's oil for synthetic, and I'll hope it's gonna help to make it last longer!!!  

Anyway, I'll put some money on the side for that...at least, I know this is a real problem!


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