# '91 240SX project-not for the faint of heart



## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

Hello. This being my first post, I'll start off with some personal info and then move into the main subject of the post. I would appreciate any and or as much information as possible from you all, even in installments or redirections. Some of these questions have been answered in other posts, but not all together and or as much as needed to make me happy. Ok, me. I am a 19-year-old male with a passion for autos. I am working on an education in automotive engineering (off and on) with a specialty in engine and drive train. I am not your typical 19 year old. I do not like overwhelming bass or fart cans on civics. I am already a Microsoft certified professional and I currently work at a Goodyear Gemini in lower Alabama. I enjoy power and an evenly balanced vehicle with the ability to drift consistently and perform all around. I have been/competed in a few autoXs and unofficial rallies. I am working on starting a car club in Mobile, but as of yet only have 5 members. It is hard here to find people that halfway know what’s up and are interested in more than illegal street racing, especially in mostly stock cars. Not to slam stock cars, just a point. If you have any info on orchestrating a sanctioned race or car club with locations to learn, teach, and play around I'd appreciate it. 
OK, on to the car info. CAR 1: I own an untitled 89 sentra with only 66k on it... Canada spec carbed E16... Both halfshafts need replacing, as does the suspension. If you have any groovy ideas for me other than drifting around open fields, lemme know. Or if you want to buy a parts car cheap, also let me know. CAR 2: less than 2 weeks ago I came upon a 91 240SX. I was looking for a parts car for my friend in the car club who drives an 89. The price was set at $700 as is where is. After driving the shit out of the car for about an hour and taking it to the shop to check it out on a rack, I discovered many groovy things. No smoke/oil blowby(2nd engine), recently rebuilt trans and new clutch, new braking system, HS intake, front strut tower brace, Unorthodox underdrive pulley, remaned steering rack(I know the OEM racks go alot on these), a "custom" cat-back with a resonator and a cherry bomb, the tires are in good shape, and the frame was straight with the only spot of rust in the spare tire area(excluding the spare, which was completely gone). The bad side: looked like next to no maintenance had been performed for a while, NO speedometer (nor had there been as the car is exempt from Odometer reading on the title), 2 or 3 seals were gone, the high pressure P/S line is slowly leaking, the suspension has never been replaced, all 4 wheels were dinged up(these are not the pretty wheels, but the pretty look-alike wheel covers), and a few steering joint boots were blown, but still solid. The front left corner is dinged up from the chick planning on the I-state, but not bad. 
So, here I am with an orange/black 91 240sx. I will break the next areas up for easier reading and scanning.

Currently: I got to work immediately on the car and its lack of maintenance/repair. Oil change, alignment&balance, rear end fluid, replaced the seal from trans to shifter, new clutch master cylinder, topped off trans fluid, new thermostat, coolant temp sensor, TPS, O2 sensor, some vacuum lines here and there, fuel filter, NGK plugs and wires, cap, rotor, induction system cleaner used with an oil and fuel additive, cd/mp3 player w/2 rear spks... I still have the p/s high pressure line and radiator hoses to replace, I might get to that on Wed... I was barely able to get the alignment within specs in the rear due to tweaked control arms, both sides. I am looking at getting a parts car, mostly for random little parts and a KA24DE for my friend, since I am driving what was supposed to be his parts car…

Questions:

My parking lights went out a few days ago and I traced all the easily accessible wiring looking for a possible short (esp around dinged corner) and found nothing. What are the chances it is the switch on the steering column? is there a relay for the parking lights?

I am having a misfire problem and a rough idle. I know the EGR may be having a slight vacuum problem still and add to the idle, but this is a misfire. Is it most likely the coil, ignition control module, or the distributor itself? My shop manager mentioned that these cars have had distributor problems, and this looks like the original. I wish I could give you and estimate for how many miles the engine has on it, but no speedo/odo. I would guess over 150K for the engine and 250K for the car.

Speedometer... there have been many posts about this issue, and ppl mention getting it fixed, but not telling HOW they do it. I have soldered before, but have no idea what to look for to do it myself. I am fairly sure it isn't the VSS as the speedo jumps around and I have no engine-cut in 4th or 5th, not to mention the obvious that it "looks" new. not to mention the tranny rebuild... It is an analog gauge. The dimmer lights are also out, but I just add that to the list of small wiring problems I have had.

The Plan: I want the car to look stock as possible and not like a sports car. This will include a flat black paint job and stock looking wheels painted with the car (going to lighter 16"ers with lower profile tires, that will resemble regular steel wheels without hubcaps). I want to lower the car no more than 1.5" front or rear, also looking stock, but with higher springrates and higher rebound dampers (crap, oem replacements would be better than the 15 year old ones on there now). Coilovers are always an option, but I need some upgrade soon... weight reduction is in the mix with possibly a painted stock-looking fiber hood and panels (but no kits), and no rear seats. A healthy power/weight ratio is key. Safety is always a concern, as is stability, so a full cage sounds like a good idea, complete with 5/4 point driver harness and some seats, probably farther in the future than i want to admit. I want around 300HP daily and as much as possible safely track.
Pre-info: all of the seals/gaskets and such will be replaced as needed and other basic parts have been considered, but if you know of anything in particular to pay attention to let me know.

Ok. I realize that this is an insanely long post with alot of loaded questions and information. Please realize that many of these upgrades will be done in stages and many will have to be done together. any ideas about what should be done first? last? This is obviously not a post for the light of heart. If you can answer any of the questions or all of them and have a similar setup let me know. I appreciate any input, but please no random comments. If I am a total idiot and seriously messed up anything or need to be enlightened let me know. Thanks a lot to all of you who have reached this point and are still reading. Peace out.

NOTE:APPARENTLY MY ORIGINAL TYPE-UP IS TOO LARGE FOR ONE POST, AS SOON AS ANOTHER POST IS MADE, I WILL POST THE MORE-SPECIFIC PLANS FOR THE DIFFERENT AREAS.

PS if any of yall are around this area let me know so we can talk/share or you can join team driftsentra or club driftMobile. (thinkin what i'm thinkin?)


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

*continuation*

Engine: I want to keep the KA...I know there are many reasons not to, but it comes down as simple as this: I bought a 240SX, not a 200sx or an 180sx. I have no reasons to dislike the engine at all other than the fact it is an iron block, even then more momentum means longer drifts, right guys? right? uh, ummm...guys??? Ok, the only way to make some power is to go boosted. I really like superchargers, but as far as I know there are no applications available for this engine. The disco potato is my primary turbo consideration, unless there are cheaper or more efficient turbos for this engine available (info please). I have not found any kits/swaps that look reasonable and are not on e-bay. I am going to build up the engine, probably in stages. Alumnum radiator and possibly an oil cooler (are they available?). Headwork including port matching, possibly oversize valves, better springs, and JWT cams and adjustable gears. Bottom end I am thinking JWT (jim wolf technology) pistons and high performance rings. I want stronger and lighter rods and crank, but have found none!! I am going to get the main bearings replaced(insurance) and the crank balanced and the cylinder walls honed. Should I put in sleeves?? Any ideas for intercooler, extra oil capacity, high performance oil pump, water pump, etc.???

Fuel: are there any super-groovy products out there? JWT has a few things like an adjustable pressure regulator, high flow injectors, bigger rails, etc. I'll need a bigger pump but do i need bigger lines or anything??

Exhaust: I'll probably go with a custom bent pipe and high flow cat with a resonator and muffler. My exhaust tip very well might be the only exterior "bling bling." The header will have to be pre-fab for a turbo. I do not want a loud exhaust. I want a high flow, high durability, and a low overall cost with a nice tone. enough to hear inside, not enough to draw alot of undue attention(a hem...).

Driveline: Looking for a lighter flywheel and very grippy clutch. How much power will the stock trans take? I want a short throw shift assembly, lighter and stronger driveshaft (aluminum?), and a 1.5way LSD. How much will stock components take?? What are some other upgrades I need to consider? Cryo treatment?

Electronics: Standalone engine management is a definate. JWT offers a few options of which i like their choice for the mustang MAF and boost preprogrammed. I would like as high-flow intake track as possible, and the mustang MAF would definately help. I need a system that has a setting for different boost levels, one track & one street. Street will prolly be on 93 pump at around 10#s. So, either a standalone boost control or an engine management with a brain. I love the AEM standalone systems, but the price tag is a bit high. I also love the AEM UEGO wideband setup. Could definitely help tuning and safety until I can find a dyno and get some time with a professional tuner. Any ideas?? Also, does anyone know if the JWT ECMs kill the speed limiter?

Suspension/Brakes: It's obvious all of the old rubber bushings need replacement, since they are all 15 years old. I want some poly- bushings in a full kit, any ideas? I will replace all of the blown seals on the tie rod and such. What swaybars/torsion bars should i look at getting? which ones are worthwhile? I want some coilovers, but I want the adjustable height and dampeners, so the basic Tien system is not for me and also not able to fit in the budget anytime really soon. In the meanwhile, I am looking at getting stiffer springs and some struts(as mine are GONE). I don't want much of a drop for many reasons (stock-looking, ground clearance, travel). I know Tien springs would most likely be my best choice but has anyone had any other good reports? What about some struts for the time being? Any recommendable spring rates? How about the 4 to 5 lug Z31/32 or s14 hub/spindle swap? I could put much better brakes and wheels on. How hard would it be really to do all of it? Is it worth the effort, or can I get a good set of brake upgrades for the 4 lug? day to day driving I'm sure I'd be happy with the stock calipers with some aggressive pads and slotted rotors, but come track day or autoX and I know i'd be disappointed. Any ideas or contributions? If i keep the 4 lug I'll have to replace all 4 hubs as the wheel bearings are non-serviceable and I don't want to risk one going on 300K locking up in the triple digits. Maybe some Moog chassis parts are in order.

Chassy: putting this much work in elsewhere I can't forget the chassis. With the full cage and various stabilizers and braces, what would be recommendable for strengthening/lightening? Also, what kind of mods can I make to increase down force without being obvious(adjustable spoiler). Maybe a front lower spoiler and a properly ported full underchassis cover (reduce drag and create better heat transfer and maybe some down force??)??

Body: clean up, fix, lighten, paint.


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## azRPS13 (Jun 7, 2003)

dj42000_2000 said:


> Engine: I want to keep the KA...I know there are many reasons not to, but it comes down as simple as this: I bought a 240SX, not a 200sx or an 180sx. I have no reasons to dislike the engine at all other than the fact it is an iron block, even then more momentum means longer drifts, right guys? right? uh, ummm...guys??? The disco potato is my primary turbo consideration, unless there are cheaper or more efficient turbos for this engine available (info please).


What is wrong with a Iron block? Its stronger, won't warp, will handel boost better, and is not that much heavier. The Cheaper, efficent turbo would be the S15 T28. Will get you to you 300hp with minimal lag...


dj42000_2000 said:


> Driveline: Looking for a lighter flywheel and very grippy clutch. How much power will the stock trans take? I want a short throw shift assembly, lighter and stronger driveshaft (aluminum?), and a 1.5way LSD. How much will stock components take?? What are some other upgrades I need to consider? Cryo treatment?


The stock tranny will handle 300hp. The Stock KA has been taken to 400hp... Your main problem will be you pisons and rods (i think)


dj42000_2000 said:


> Electronics: Standalone engine management is a definate. I would like as high-flow intake track as possible, and the mustang MAF would definately help. Could definitely help tuning and safety until I can find a dyno and get some time with a professional tuner. Any ideas?? Also, does anyone know if the JWT ECMs kill the speed limiter?


:thumbup: on the stand alone... That should elliminated the MAF right? And yes the JWT does kill speed/rev limiter.


dj42000_2000 said:


> Suspension: How about the 4 to 5 lug Z31/32 or s14 hub/spindle swap? I could put much better brakes and wheels on. How hard would it be really to do all of it? Is it worth the effort, or can I get a good set of brake upgrades for the 4 lug? day to day driving I'm sure I'd be happy with the stock calipers with some aggressive pads and slotted rotors, but come track day or autoX and I know i'd be disappointed. Any ideas or contributions? If i keep the 4 lug I'll have to replace all 4 hubs as the wheel bearings are non-serviceable and I don't want to risk one going on 300K locking up in the triple digits. Maybe some Moog chassis parts are in order.


The Stock calipers suck no matter what you add... The cheapest upgrade would be the 180sx/altima (if altima brakes are a upgrade, you know the stock ones suck!)brake and caliper conversion. Bigger rotor and calipers, which I don't know why Nissan didnt give stock. Next in line will be the Z32 (300zx) Brake and caliper conversion... Lots of stopping power there.


dj42000_2000 said:


> Body: clean up, fix, lighten, paint.


:thumbup:


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## Kelso (Apr 29, 2003)

yea iron block is actually a big plus... anyways ill try to answer some questions.

why do you want a car club? if your thinking of like the fast and furious car clubs, thats retarded, dont do it. if you mean like a nissans of alabama club or something though, thats cool.

props for wanting to keep the KA, it can be nicely turbo'd but dont look for turbo kits. just do it yourself. suggestion: if you have the funds to do this, just get your current motor running right then get a second KA motor. but all your jwt stuff and put it all in there and make that motor top of the line. this can keep certain parts from going down the shitter by the time you actually get the turbo on, and keeps you with a spare motor.

short shifter = B and M. its expensive but worth it. a lot of people get the OBX shifter but soon after they have to buy the band m anyways so just do it the first time and dont wast money on the cheap obx products.

it would be a great idea to completely redo your whole suspension and brake setup. eibach pro kit springs give a 1.5 inch drop i think, and you should get some struts to go with it too even though it will drop even lower then. all the other stuff should get replaced with some good stiff products.

300zx brakes are a big upgrade that I also need to get done. the stock brakes suck, they have to be replaced. thats just how it is.

thanks for knowing something about cars before posting...your a rare kind lol :cheers:


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

thanks for all the info so far...definately working on getting that parts car. I believe it has the ka24de, but my friend needs a motor pretty badly (I refuse to follow him its so bad. i think it gives me cancer, as if my smoking addiction helps.lol). I'll know something for sure tomorrow. I would defer to him for that extra motor, and he only has the single overhead cam which would not be of any use to me except selling the block. All of the engine mods will most likely occur relatively close together, I am still working on the order. will the garrett T28 support only 300 hp, or will it boost more with an adequate setup?

When you say make my own turbo setup, you must realize i do not own a machine shop or otherwise. how do you reccomend making one. Also, I have only worked on a few turbo setups, so building one might be a bit of a task for me. If you have done a KA turbo before, let me know exactly how to hook it up properly and if possible cheaply and powerfully. (ps, i know how they work and whats up inside the processes of an engine, just not familiar with hands on turbo work)

driftMobile is a club dedicated to the pursuit of knowledge, skill, and fun. we are not looking to dramatize the scene. we get together to talk about possible upgrades, work on cars, wash our rides, beat the crap out of the sentra, or just go for a cruise. we keep our minds open on what make vehicles our members drive ( NO SATURNS-this is the only exception, sorry larry) j/k. however, the only type of saturn i will probably ever respect is an all out rally-spec. I want to start organizing local autoXs with permission and maybe even trooper assistance/recognition/allowance.
I appreciate all the response and look forward to more info and help. 

this forum rocks my face off.

tru


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## kaptainkrollio (Jul 29, 2003)

making own turbo set up does not mean building you own turbo. its means find a manifold, turbo, fuel injectors, etc idividually that best suit your needs, not buying something like a blitz sr20 turbo upgrade kit.


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## Drift Machine (Aug 22, 2004)

The first turbo car I ever worked on was when I built my KA-T. Putting together a kit is not hard at all. But for 300hp on a KA24DE I suggest something bigger then the T28. I'm running a T3/T04E 50 trim .63 AR and IMHO it would be the perfect turbo to hit 300hp.

The thing that will give out on the KA are the ringlands, but they seem to go out somewhere around 400hp.

For standalone the AEM EMS is out, I like it but it's really exspensive.

I did the same thing for the exhaust on my KA-T, just had it fabbed up by a local muffler shop. A lot cheaper and retains a sleeper look and sound at idle.

For fuel I recommend you get a top feed fuel rail, this will allow you to run bigger injectors and such.

Driveline wise I'm running the Fidanza flywheel and SPEC stage 3 clutch and absolutely love it.


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## Kelso (Apr 29, 2003)

yea i wasnt saying to build a turbo that would be retarded lol. i was suggesting what the kaptain said. get all the bits and peices instead of buying a kit.

my friend just did this on his cavalier(i know...of all cars he could have turbo'd...) and its way cheaper than getting a kit but more time consuming, yet you can buy exactly what you want and it turns out being much cheaper in the end


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

i know what you guys meant, I was talking about where to find the upper and lower intake/exhaust plenums and such...I have not found any parts or pieces, so websites or businesses that can fab up or already have ka specific turbo parts would help alot.. I like the looks of the JWT rail and injectors. AEM is one of my most respected companies, esp as far as their standalone systems, so I am looking to see how i might can afford one. Rings rings rings... where can i get some higher performance rings? Also, should I look at putting in sleeves? Any ideas on lighter rods? how about a stronger and lighter axle (maybe aluminum)... bad news, no parts car. :-( sorry all this is so jumbled, not much time, much to say. Upgrades today: windshield wipers, new fuses (parking light testing), U&L radiator hoses that don't have cracks...doing a full wet and dry compression test this evening, I will post the findings so someone more knowledgeable than me on these engines can help. I did a full battery and alternator load test, all good. Alternator voltage is a bit low 13-13.5V (I am used to 14.4) but carrys a load properly (no spikes or dips)... thanks for all the help and info.

tru

PS. Drift machine(sparklemotion)-tight car. love the setup,but only 6#? lemme guess, stock internals? still a tight setup. its amazing that this engine is so capable. howd you hook up the blaster coil? does that coil accept a signal wire? I looked into getting an accel coil and stopped realizing the coil must have a signal wire... peace


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

I just finished the compression test on the ka. the results were fairly close, except for one freak that was about 25 psi higher than the rest (120#s), so i restarted and got a "nominal" number. I had spun up the engine another rev or two, so that might account for the misreading. Dry testing showed 93-95 psi and wet showed 95 to 99psi. this was my first time using a compression tester, so I may've messed up, that and i'm really really tired. anyway, if ya'll could give me the 411 on these readings that'd rock.

truman

peace


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## Drift Machine (Aug 22, 2004)

Don't know how you did your compression test, but the numbers should be between 150 and 190. And they should only be 10 psi apart from cyclinder to cylinder. If you did it right, sounds like you got some rebuilding to do.

I've got to get to class but I will answer the rest of your questions when I get back.


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## Drift Machine (Aug 22, 2004)

Now that school is over time to get back to cars : )

For places to get parts for the a KA-T:
www.boostdesigns.com
www.phatka-t.com
www.ka-t.org (not a company)
www.ebay.com (hehe)
www.ka24de.com
www.jgstools.com

Just to name a few.

But you will find with a KA-T that you will be using a lot of universal parts.

The blaster coil was insanely easy to hook up, all you have to do is cut the negative and power wires going to the stock coil. Crimp on a and put it onto the blaster.

Yeah I'm running stock internals, but thats not why I'm only running 6psi. I'm only currently running 6psi becuase thats the spring in my wastegate and I thought it was more important to get my z32TT brakes and rims on then up the boost :cheers: . But once I get back from school, basically this summer, I'm going to drop in some 550s and up the boost and do some other things such as gut the car.

Sleeves are not needed on the KA.

Why do you need/want lighter internals? (remember the KA isn't a Honda )

All you really need internally for 300hp is stronger pistons. Since the ringlands are the weakspot of the KA, though they can take 400hp just not for very long.

The AEM EMS I think is the greastest thing to come out for the KA

If I missed something just let me know.


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## dj42000_2000 (Oct 19, 2004)

thanks for the sites. I want to lighten the engine internals to do two things. 1- more free-revving (less rotating mass internally). 2- easier to balance the crank when there are lighter components used.
are there any problems with harmonics with these motors?? might be a dumb question but i figured id ask.
I found out that I shoulda turned the motor over more times per test ( i did 3). this would account for the low numbers. I am hoping to borrow the tester again Sat and try once more.
Rock out about the even balance and control. I can't blame you for not boosting more now that I know why.
A few good things will happen today for my 240. new instrument cluster. parking lights. cleaning. fun stuff. I might even get around to the radiator hoses before i start partying tonight.


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