# pulled codes and.......



## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

well some of you might be aware of the issues that i have been haveing with my $250 project truck, but incase you dont heres a thread to catch up with things.

http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/149640-d21-crank-no-start-coils.html

well i got a dizzy from zanegrey, great helpful guy btw, off here and the truck will still not start so i guess its not a dizzy problem so he suggested that i pull the codes from the truck and this is what i got:

21-ign sig
23-idle switch
24-throttle valve switch

21 is kind of a no brainer cuz the thing just cranks, but are the other two only in there because the truck is just cranking and not running or am i way off base here in thinking this. thanks for any input that anyone has on this.


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## RB24SRB24DETT (Jan 9, 2009)

*codes*

if you can wait till monday i can give you the exact meaning of each code. give me the complete code(p....). i work at nissan so i have access to the mechanics service manual


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

i did the green light red light thing to pull the codes and this is what i got. no PO or P codes.


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## RB24SRB24DETT (Jan 9, 2009)

*codes*

the things i can get is the code meanings and procedures on how to check them


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

do not worry about 23 and 24.

first have some crank the engine while you are checking for power at main relay and both coils...


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

that is what i thought on 23, 24, and the main relay is passenger side fender right?

and when i am checking power at the coils do i check it in, back probing the connector or out at the coil wire to the dizzy? they both have power while not cranking.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

tested voltage at the main relay and had 10.5v while cranking. that is a 2v drop to the main relay but it was during cranking so....

and i had 9.5v out of both coils while cranking. this got me thinking about the condition of the wires. prevoius owner said that he did the wires about 7 months before the truck quit running, but i test the resistance of the wires from the coils to the dizzy and one was 2.25kohms and the other was 5.25kohms. is this enuf of a difference to cause this thing not to run??


i also noticed that there is some adjustment when putting in the dizzzy and was wondering if that has to be all the way to one side or the other.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

middle for the dizzy...

how do the wires look ?
and the should have an almost identical ohms test..

check the lead coming into the dizzy ..


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> *middle for the dizzy...*<<what does this mean?
> 
> how do the wires look ?>>>wires look good. there not cracked or anything
> and the should have an almost identical ohms test..<<possibly an internal wire failure?
> ...



also looked at the fuseble links and they were all good.

i took up the vinyl floor covering and it was wet were the main wire harness runs from the ecu into the engine bay, water did not get to the ecu. thinking maybe a corrosion issue here?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the distributor should be in ther middle of the adjustment range ...


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

ahhh i see. that is were i put it, i figured that was the best bet.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

checked power into the dizzy from the 4-pin connector and there was power there. than took the cap off and tested for power there and i had power there. also tested the resistance between the wires to the coils thru the cap and go the same result with different resistance values. i think im going to do cap, rotor,plugs and wires as a next step. this seems like the only logical step.......i think.


im getting kind of frustrated with it but i guess ill keep pressing on with it. might just break down and swap in the 350. lol :woowoo:


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## brookwood61 (Aug 18, 2005)

I had a bad rotor once,send the spark right to ground,instead of thru the cap.Look for burn marks on it,or a dark spot on the rotor,where the current was arcing thru.
Good Luck


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

i have thought about this as well. i was talking to the guys at work and a couple of them suggested that as well so i think that i will try it at least. $12 for a new rotor, worth a try.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

get both the cap and rotor..


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

will do after work tomorrow!


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

got the cap and rotor........nothin:lame:

im really having a hard time with this, not sure were to go next with this


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## RB24SRB24DETT (Jan 9, 2009)

*CODE*

what is the full 21 ign code. im at work and can ask my nissan technicians


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

that is all it is.

2 red
1 green

that is how i pulled out of the computer.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i can't remember if i ask u ... did u check to see if the dizzy is in fact turning as you crank the engine ?


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## RB24SRB24DETT (Jan 9, 2009)

i talked to my techs they would like to take a look at it, but they told me the issues with that truck were a bad ignition switch, oil in the distributor, and they wanted to know what motor do you have


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> i can't remember if i ask u ... did u check to see if the dizzy is in fact turning as you crank the engine ?


yeah its turning when it is cranking.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

RB24SRB24DETT said:


> i talked to my techs they would like to take a look at it, but they told me the issues with that truck were a bad ignition switch, oil in the distributor, and they wanted to know what motor do you have



it is the z24i 4 cyl. dizzy is new/used with no oil in it. as far as the ign switch were is it located and how do i test it??


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

ok never mind the last thing that i said. it cranks so how would the ign switch be bad.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

you have to check the ignition to see if it is energizing the igniton system and not just the starter..


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

zanegrey said:


> you have to check the ignition to see if it is energizing the igniton system and not just the starter..



and how would i go about doing that??


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

start at the dizzy plug in ..

you should get a switched power on at least one of them..


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

this is what i got with switched power on and the dizzy connector.


upper left battery voltage
upper right 4.88v
lower left 4.91v
lower right .011v i assume that this is a ground.

here is a pic of the connector as it is listed above.









i cant find a wiring diagram with the dizzy pigtail on it to see were these wires are supposed to go. id like to test coninuity of these wires to the ECU.


oh one more semi dumb question. i had the ECU in diag mode and forgot. is the switch on or off for the engine to run?? id hate to be thinking that i havent got it if that is in the wrong postion.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

ok here is what im working with here.









here are the ICMs (ign control modules) not sure but i think that i want to replace these
but at @$140 for both of them id like to eliminate everything else. they are very rusty
and one of them is cracked. if these are like coils then this might be my problem.?.?.?


























any input is welcome! thanks guys!


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

dude ,
we need to back up just a little. i know ur dizzy is good .

those pics of the icm and the coils..

the resistor pack is supposed to be on a frame mounted with the coils.

check you pm

unplug the coils and clean all that rust and crap up.

vacumn it out and wire brush down to where the coils would bolt up..

see if you can find the originall bolts the hold the coils in place ..remove them and wire brush down to bare metal..


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

the ecm is only turned on when u r reading the trouble codes...

off to drive the truck...


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

^^thank you, and you have a PM.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

this truck should be running......:lame:

i am not sure what i am missing here.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

got my new ign control modules today. we will see...................


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

well the good is that the code 21 is gone now.


the bad is that the truck still does not run.



were do i go from here?????


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## DatSoon (Feb 11, 2009)

Are you still getting codes? I have the holy grail for the 1986 z24i......The Electro Injection Supplement Manual! To clear code 23 (idle switch) depress and release the accelerator. To clear code 24 (neutral switch) depress the clutch, and put it in 4th or 5th gear, release the clutch, then depress the clutch, put it back into neutral, then release the clutch. The manual says you will always get code 23 and 24 which is normal. Once the codes 23 and 24 are cleared, you should then go to code 44 after that unless have any other codes that are being thrown. let me know what codes you are getting and I'll relay what the manual says to trouble shoot them. I can scan some pages for you too if need be.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

does that book have wiring diagrams???

those are the only 2 current codes that i have. this is what i am dealing with now..... link.


http://www.nissanforums.com/hb-truck/151042-carb-problems-need-diagrams.html


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## DatSoon (Feb 11, 2009)

It does have a wiring diagram and the trouble shooting process for the injectors. I'm about 1/2 way through scanning it right now and will hopefully finish it tonight. I'll keep in touch.


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## Pynikal (Dec 11, 2008)

thanks man. those diagrams are great!

now i just haveto figure out witch one i need?!? there small.


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