# 2006 Pathfinder radiator/transmission cooler failure



## yeterp (Nov 24, 2012)

Would installing a new radiator prevent the radiator/transmission cooler failure that occurs in 2005 to 2009 Pathfinders? I am getting close to the end of the extended warranty coverage that Nissan offers and would like to forestall a very expensive problem. Does anyone know which radiators, if any, would not have the cooler failures that the OEM radiators have?

Thanks,

Yeterp


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Just about every aftermarket transmissions, especially those for automatic transmissions, have an integral cooler tube for cooling the automatic transmission fluid. The problem with the 2005-2010 Pathfinders/Xterras/Frontiers radiators is a design flaw in the factory radiator made by Calsonic-Kansei. The problem is limited to North American vehicles (Pathfinders made in Spain don't have this issue) and seem to be most prevelant on 05 through 07 models, although there have been a few 08 models reported. The North American vehicles come equipped with an auxilary trans cooler mounted in front of the AC condensor. Many have simply bypassed the integral cooler of the radiator by re-routing the cooler hoses so that the ATF passes though the auxilary cooler and not the radiator's integral cooler. Most have reported no problems, although, if you tow with your vehicle or live in an area that experiences very cold temperatures, I wouldn't recommend it. For one, a liquid-to-liquid cooler is far more efficient than a liquid-to-air cooler. Also, the radiator's cooler tube not only cools the ATF, but also warms it up to operating temperature quicker and maintains it in the proper range (ATF should operate in the 175 degree F range +/-). 

If you want to replace the radiator, you have three choices. You can use the countermeasure genuine Nissan radiator which MSRP's around $550. For roughly the same money, you can get an all-aluminum radiator from Griffin radiators. The third choice is an aftermarket radiator for a lot less money. For my 2006 LE, I went with a brand new, $92/free shipping/lifetime warranty I found on Ebay (Parts Express...it is now listed for $120, but there is currently one for $77.90 from Radiator Classic). It may be made in China, but it appears to be quality built and the fit was perfect; I've had it installed for 7 months so far. I also replaced the 4 foam seals, which I got from Nissan (one on the upper tank of the radiator, one on the lower tank, and the other two on the side brackets. See link below). If you prefer to buy a part made in North America, you can get one made by Spectra Premium of Canada for around $150. The radiator replacement is not an easy job; labor guide rate is 3.0 hours. Unlike earlier Pathfinders, the R51 uses bolt on side brackets with extensions that have to be navigated around the A/C lines to the condensor. The condensor also shares the same mounts, so it first has to be lifted out of the bracket and tied off to the radiator support to keep it from dropping down. It's very awkward and a poorly engineered design (from a mechanic's point of view). 

Part Detail

Here's a link to the Radiator Classic radiator:

Brand New 1 Row w/o EOC w/ TOC Replacement Radiator For 2.5 4.0 L4 V6 GAS | eBay


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## yeterp (Nov 24, 2012)

*Risk of failure with aftermarket radiators?*

Thanks, That is very helpful. Is it known which new radiators would for sure prevent the leakage of coolant into the transmission? Could a new radiator have the same problem as the original radiator that came with my 2006 Pathfinder?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

There is a sticker on the top of the radiator tank with the Calsonic name and a part number. The most common part number is 21400-EA215, although some have reported the number 21400-EA265 (which doesn't show up in the Nissan catalog). This is the original part number. At some point under the -EA215 number, Calsonic apparantly correctly the design of the cooler that lead to problem of coolant contamination. Later, the part number was superceded to "21400-9CA2E." It is unsure of exactly when Calsonic corrected the problem, so any of the -EA215 or -EA265 radiators installed on 2005-2010 Pathfinders/Xterras/Frontiers could develope the crack and result in cross-contamination, but so far the majority of those occurances are limited to 2005-2007 models and a few 2008's, so far. Time will tell if the problem will be seen on a greater number of 2008 models and/or progress into the 2009-and-later models. Keep in mind that not all of the -EA215 radiators will fail and experience cross-contamination issues; in fact, it is only a small percentage of those radiators that will fail. The big problem is the extent of damage and cost when those radiators do fail. Nobody wants to be on the hook for a $5000-$6000 repair bill, especially if it can be prevented! The one thing we do know is that the 21400-9CA2E radiators are of the updated design.

Radiators with integral transmission coolers have been used for decades and some even use an integral cooler for engine oil, as well. With the exception of the current problem affecting the 2005-2010 Pathfinders/Xterras/Frontiers, these coolers have been very reliable and trouble-free. I started as a Nissan tech back in 1985 and can't recall ever seeing a failed radiator cooler line (as far as cross-contamination issues) on a Nissan vehicle up until 2005. The issue at hand is either a failure of design or manufacturing by Calsonic, which ironically has made the radiator for the 2004-2005 Titans and Armadas which have a problem of the bottom tank cracking and leaking. Myself, I would feel very comfortable in using an aftermarket or updated Nissan radiator to replace the original -EA215 radiators.


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## mikem87 (Apr 30, 2013)

Hey smj999smj,

I know this is a relatively old thread but I was wondering if you knew anything more about the updated radiators. I have 2010 Pathfinder SE and the part # on the top of the radiator is: 21460-ZL11A. Do you know if this is updated radiator? I'd hate to change out the radiator if it's not defective.

Thanks,
Mike


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's hard to say at this point. The majority of failures affected the 2005-2007 Pathfinders (and Xterras and Frontiers). There have only been a few 2008 models reporting radiator failures on the Pathfinder specific site: thenissanpath.com. So, even though Nissan did apply the extended warranty to 2005-2010 models, most felt pretty sure that the 2009 and 2010 models received the updated part in the factory and were clear of the issue. Then, about a month ago, a 2010 Pathfinder owner posted that is radiator cooler tube failed. I believe he did have that same 21460-ZL11A part number; the other radiators that failed were all either 21460-EA215 or 21460-EA265, the latter which, interestingly, doesn't show up in the Nissan part catalog. So, I guess it's your call! 
If there is any "good news," the aftermarket radiators have come down a little in price. The "made in China" unit I got from Parts Express on Ebay for $92 is still doing fine and the price is now only $73 (free shipping/lifetime warranty). For those who wanted a name brand part, the Canadian-made, Spectra Premium radiators can be found in the $130-$150 range. Both are much better than the $550 that Nissan wants! Of course, the "bypass method" is still available for those who'd rather not use the radiator's integral cooler at all and rely solely on the auxilary trans cooler.


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## mustangkev (Aug 26, 2014)

*Kevin*

My transmission just started skipping, getting back on the gas, at the first stop sign. I just had my oil changed and they said that transmission fluid is in the radiator. The suggest I take it to a transmission shop. Any idea how much I'm looking at? The mechanic at the oil shop is thinking it's probably the transmission cooler. Have I found it in time? Or am I looking at an expensive repair?


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## mustangkev (Aug 26, 2014)

*Question*

I also have a 2006 Pathfinder. The transmission just started slipping, at the first stop sign, letting off the gas ect.. I just had my oil changed and they said that I had transmission fluid in the radiator. The mechanic came over and said the it could be the transmission cooler. He suggested going to a transmission shop, since he couldn't check it there. 
Has it been caught in time so it won't be an expensive repair? Or am I looking at the worse? :|


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

mustangkev said:


> I also have a 2006 Pathfinder. The transmission just started slipping, at the first stop sign, letting off the gas ect.. I just had my oil changed and they said that I had transmission fluid in the radiator. The mechanic came over and said the it could be the transmission cooler. He suggested going to a transmission shop, since he couldn't check it there.
> Has it been caught in time so it won't be an expensive repair? Or am I looking at the worse? :|


once the transmission fluid is contaminated with coolant, the transmission is likely to be toast
expensive repair? yes.
you will likely need a replacement transmission and radiator, due to the damage from the contamination


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

*Radiator / transmission*

My radiator has 21460 EA215 on it. Do you know if this part number is part of the weak radiators? In 2007 my radiator was replaced by a collision repair shop. They did use a factory replacement; too bad on this one.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan never released what part numbers were in the affected range, but -EA215 and -EA265 are the older part numbers and you likely have a radiator that could "potentially" fail. That part number has been replaced by 21460-9CA2E. I would recommend you do the bypass or replace the radiator. Stillen will have an all-aluminum radiator available soon for about $350, which is much cheaper than the genuine Nissan, plastic tank, radiator which costs $450 online. As mentioned in post #6, I used an aftermarket radiator that was less than $100 and it has been doing fine for three years, knock on wood!


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

I can't believe Nissan won't just replace the radiator. I don't know if I will stay a customer if they don't fix this issue. We should not have to pay due to Nissan using defective radiators. I'm so PO'd right now. It seems that the radiator will eventually fail so the best thing to do is replace it out of pocket. Nissan is now the Obamacare of the truck world in IMO. Thank you for the quick reply.


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## Outkast (Jan 29, 2006)

It's not a cooler it's a warmer. Just bypass it straight to the exterior cooler. all you are bypassing is an 8in long tube with fins in the bottom of the radiator. I offer to do it for free to all my customers, if they want, and have never had a comeback for issues doe to it.


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks. Your not close to WA state are ya


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

Why does everyone including Nissan call it a trans cooler. Thanks; it looks like I will have to do the bypass.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Geaux504360 said:


> Why does everyone including Nissan call it a trans cooler. Thanks; it looks like I will have to do the bypass.


Because technically, that's what it is. Remember, many...if not most...vehicles do not come with a external air-to-liquid cooler installed from the factory, so in those cases, the integral cooler of the radiator does cool the ATF, as well as warm the fluid. The idea is really to maintain the temperature of the ATF to a temperature around 175-200 degrees F, which is why the ATF is routed through the external cooler first and the radiator integral cooler second. Wasn't it Shakespeare who wrote, "A part by any other name would still fail just the same!" Or, something like that.


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

I’m not trying to be a douche but can’t you just put coolant in your transmission and ATF in the radiator before hitting 80,000 miles? That way Nissan will cover the needed repairs. Nissan should replace this defective radiator; I can’It believe they are willing to risk losing loyal customers! I don’t believe in dishonesty but I’m a single father and I have a daughter to take care of. Instead of making Nissan $5,000 richer and my daughter and I $5,000 poorer something has to be done. I called 4 stealerships and they will not replace the radiator unless I pay $850. Still too high for something their contractee Calsonic did. Made in USA dang; I thought buying Chinese was bad. How would they know? BTW I have a 2006 4.0 SE with 75,000 miles on it. I’m not a mechanic but I have some tools and don’t mind learning or even buying more tools. Why is Calsonic not being held responsible for the radiator leaks. Nissan prolly did get something back from Calsonic then pocketed the money and still screwed us.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

Geaux504360 said:


> *I’m not trying to be a douche but can’t you just put coolant in your transmission and ATF in the radiator before hitting 80,000 miles?* That way Nissan will cover the needed repairs. Nissan should replace this defective radiator; I can’It believe they are willing to risk losing loyal customers! I don’t believe in dishonesty but I’m a single father and I have a daughter to take care of. Instead of making Nissan $5,000 richer and my daughter and I $5,000 poorer something has to be done. I called 4 stealerships and they will not replace the radiator unless I pay $850. Still too high for something their contractee Calsonic did. Made in USA dang; I thought buying Chinese was bad. How would they know? BTW I have a 2006 4.0 SE with 75,000 miles on it. I’m not a mechanic but I have some tools and don’t mind learning or even buying more tools. Why is Calsonic not being held responsible for the radiator leaks. Nissan prolly did get something back from Calsonic then pocketed the money and still screwed us.


you could try to defraud them into replacing the radiator & transmission - unless they were to pressure check your radiator to determine if it's really defective (quick & easy to do).
why not stop whining and do the by-pass or replace the radiator - far less $$$$$$$ than the $5,000 you're already complaining about that you don't even need to spend at this point
the by-pass takes about 30 minutes with no additional parts necessary
or a new radiator can be installed for a few hundred bucks 
none of us are happy about this, but at least there are methods of avoiding the mess
geeeeezzzz..........


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yeah, I agree. While it probably would work, I can't advise someone on committing fraud. I would rather just recommend doing the bypass method. If one does a lot of heavy towing or lives in an area of extreme temperatures, I would recommend replacing the radiator with an aftermarket unit. The price Nissan charges for their radiator is ridiculous and way overpriced. The Chinese radiator I purchased seemed very well built and fit was perfect. A lot of people have used Spectra Premium radiators out of Canada, but I believe those radiators for the Pathfinders are made in China, as well. 
As far as Calsonic, Nissan bought them out in the mid-2000's, which, ironically, is when the problems started. In addition to the radiator cooler issues of the 05-10 Pathys/Xterras/Frontiers, there were also a lot of problems with the lower tanks leaking and cracking on the radiators of the early Titans.


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## Outkast (Jan 29, 2006)

The Pathfinders, Xterras, and Frontiers all have external coolers and internal warmers. the internal warmers are meant to warm the fluid up quicker to prevent wear.


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

I will bypass until I can get a new radiator. Does anyone know of a good brand. Autozone has a Specrta. Online I see Koyo, Stillen Griffin and Mishimoto. Griffen is too expensive for me right now. I saw a website selling the old defective radiator (21460 EA215) for $130; sad. I could pay $500 at the dealership but dang it seems I can do better for that much. Thanks Outkast for helping


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Outkast said:


> The Pathfinders, Xterras, and Frontiers all have external coolers and internal warmers. the internal warmers are meant to warm the fluid up quicker to prevent wear.


All of the North American models do, however, some models made in other countries do not come from the factory with the external cooler...thus, the radiator cooler is actually that: a cooler...as well as a warmer, like most vehicles. The funny thing is that those countries don't seem to have our problems with the coolers failing, but I'm assuming theirs aren't made by Calsonic in North America.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Geaux504360 said:


> I will bypass until I can get a new radiator. Does anyone know of a good brand. Autozone has a Specrta. Online I see Koyo, Stillen Griffin and Mishimoto. Griffen is too expensive for me right now. I saw a website selling the old defective radiator (21460 EA215) for $130; sad. I could pay $500 at the dealership but dang it seems I can do better for that much. Thanks Outkast for helping


I replaced mine three years ago. Back then, the all-aluminum radiators weren't on the market yet, unless you had one custom made. Most of the aftermarket radiators will be made in China, including the commonly used Spectra Premium radiators, whose company is based out of Canada. While a lot of people make fun of or are leery of Chinese-made auto parts, the truth is some of their stuff is actually pretty good and it's getting better every year. It's the Korean and Thailand auto parts that are quickly taking China's place for poor quality auto parts. Those at the Pathfinder site, thenissanpath.com, who have used Spectra Premium radiators have been satisfied with their choice, which now run in the $120 range online. Three years ago, my Ebay radiator, which came from a seller called "Parts Express," was $92 and free shipping. The choices are single, 2-1/4" core and 2-1/8" double core; I chose the double-row core, but I don't think it makes much difference. The drain petcock was a different thread pitch than the original, but it came with a new one, so it was a non-issue. Otherwise, it fit perfectly and appeared well-built and I've had no problems with it. You can now find them for $72 on Ebay. I purchased new foam seals for it from Nissan, which were inexpensive. If I were to do it today and had a little extra money, I would probably wait for Stillen to finally release their all-aluminum $350 radiator.


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks I will see if I can find a Stillen. I looked on Mishimoto's website and didn't see a radiator for the Frontier. I was surprised.


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

Awe man the Stillen Doesn’t come out until mid December. That one will be a new model with no track record but it sounds awesome.
CSF Racing Radiators O.E Replacement Radiator 7029 CSF7029 | STILLEN


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

Geaux504360 said:


> Awe man the Stillen Doesn’t come out until mid December. That one will be a new model with no track record but it sounds awesome.
> CSF Racing Radiators O.E Replacement Radiator 7029 CSF7029 | STILLEN


by-pass it now, and replace it when the one you want is available


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## Geaux504360 (Oct 10, 2014)

Wow that CSF all aluminum radiator CSF 7029 looks awesome and is less expensive than the factory one. Plus it's 2 row vs 1 row whatever that means. Sounds more efficient. The CSF 2079 says its a drop in radiator so does that mean I won't have to buy a new fan? The fan and everything attaches just like the original radiator? I bought a Chilton and still looks like a big job for me. I believe the fan and all that stays on and I just have to take off hoses and bolts. Then drop the new one in and put back in reverse order. Thanks for the replies. I might get brave and try to replace it myself.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

"Row" refers to the row of cooling fins in the core of the radiator. Number of rows has to be taken into consideration with the thickness of the core. For example, most radiators for the R51 are either a single row 2-1/4" core or a 2-1/8" double row core; either will work just fine.
"Drop in" means that it will (or "should") fit just like the factory part.
Replacing the radiator on an R51 Pathfinder is much harder than the earlier model (WD21, R50) Pathfinders. It's about a 3-hour job, depending on what tools you have, working environment, your experience, etc. The electric fan needs to be unplugged and disconnected from the shroud. The radiator shroud, electric fan and manual fan need to be removed, and coolant drained, of course. Radiator and trans cooler hoses need to be removed, which means the skid plate needs to be removed. Reservoir hose needs to be removed. The A/C condenser shares the lower bracket with the radiator and will need to be supported (tied up) when removing the radiator. Remove the top brackets, tilt the radiator forward, pull the condenser out of the lower bracket and support, pull the radiator up and out, maneuvering the side brackets attached to the radiator through the A/C liquid lines, which will remain attached to the condenser. Once the radiator is out, you can swap over the side brackets and, if you purchase it, install the new foam seals (you likely won't be able to get the old ones to stick onto the new radiator, if they are any good). Reverse to install. Fill the radiator with coolant and install the radiator cap. Fill the coolant reservoir to the "max" fill line. Install the reservoir cap, start the engine, turn all heaters to "maximum" heat setting, park on an incline with the nose up or jack up the front and let the air purge from the system.


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## Professor1982 (Oct 22, 2014)

*Professor1982*

I have a 2008 SE Pathy (V6) with only 52K miles which I purchased brand new and the radiator just failed. A crack developed on the bottom of the radiator causing an external leak (fluid was pouring onto the ground). Fortunately, it doesn't appear an internal leak occurred cross contaminating the tranny fluid. 

Back story - Over the summer, suddenly the engine overheated. I was perplexed whereas I am neurotic with my vehicle's maintenance. I checked the thermostat and it was fine then I checked the coolant fluid level and it was 50% low?!? There were no visible leaks on the ground I could see and the tranny fluid was perfectly clear (I did check this). I refilled the radiator and watched it like a hawk over the next 2 months.

During this time, being nervous about possibly having a failing radiator, I called HQ (and wrote a certified letters to the entire "C" level staff) in Tennessee to complain about the radiator issue and getting MIL code "P0463"(talk about that later). A rep. from HQ's Executive Offices called me back. She sounded like she was reading from a script. I asked for a no charge diagnostic on the radiator and the P0463 code. After hammering her for a good hour, HQ agreed to cover the diagnostic appointment. 

Within 72 hrs I took the vehicle to a local dealership. The dealership claimed to find "nothing wrong" with no cross contamination of radiator fluid and despite the MIL code P0463 being thrown, its no longer active and simply stored in the computer indicating "no fault". Ironically that same day, I noticed coolant fluid leaking on the ground so I called that dealership back to ask 1) "did you notice the leaking coolant fluid 2) if they brought the engine up to operating temperature before they tested the integrity of the radiator and 3) if they did a pressure test?" They said "no, the vehicle was on the lift and we don't do pressure testing for radiator integrity"?!? I further asked, "Didn't your tech notice the fluid leaking on the ground?" They replied, "No"?!? Knowing I was dealing with either mental midgets OR a dealership trying to protect HQ, I followed up with the question "if the leakage is external, is that covered under the extended warranty?" They said "no, only internal leaks" (remember this). 

Followed up with HQ the next day they said they could do nothing b/c the dealership said nothing was wrong with the vehicle. I asked HQ to cover the diagnostic cost to take it to the dealership where I purchased the car (farther away) and HQ said they would not cover the cost for a second diagnosis despite the first diagnosis being severely flawed. I also asked them now that the radiator is externally leaking (and its visible) is that covered under the extended warranty? They refused to answer the question and advised I had to take it to a dealership (go figure). 

When I took the car to the dealership where I purchased it, they immediately agreed the radiator was cracked/failing and replaced it under the extended warranty program (per them its a $1200.00 job). They installed a new radiator (21460-9CA2E) and I got out of dodge (not even wanting do discuss the MIL code) not trusting anything this company or its dealerships may say. Now that I have a new radiator, I should be good to go there, however to get to this point was mind numbing and filled with massive issues and misinformation and still dont have clarity on the stored MIL code.

I will never EVER purchase another product from this company nor will I recommend them to others. This is not how you treat any customer, let alone a customer that spent over $40K on the vehicle.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The P0463 fuel level sensor code is likely the result of a faulty fuel level sender in the gas tank, a common issue on not just mid 2000's Pathfinders, but other Nissan models, as well.
There was a service bulletin on them, and also a recall on 2006 models only.

I don't blame you for being upset with Nissan. I worked for them for a long time and they used to be a pretty good company when it came to their products and customer service. Since their money troubles in the late 90's, their products and customer service have both gone by the wayside in their efforts to make a profitable product.


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## Professor1982 (Oct 22, 2014)

Thanks. The MIL light went out, so what I have been told is it may have been bad fuel or some other temporary reason and the fuel sensor may be fine. Will keep an eye on it. 

That is another expensive repair.


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## peterdsdoyle (Oct 27, 2014)

*ATF issue in Spanish build pathfinders*

Hi smj999smj,
You seem to be a bit of an expert on this issue, are you sure the issue does not surface on VSK (Spanish) build pathfinders ? the reason I ask is that many Aussies have reported this issue and I believe they are Spanish built. I have an 05 VSK and don't have the issue as yet (170k), I don't have a model sticker on the radiator only a molded number PA66-GF30. Any input would be appreciated.

Regards Peter.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I can't say it won't happen on a Spanish-built Pathfinder, but I've "heard" from some members on thenissanpath.com that it isn't an issue in Europe. So, take that for what it's worth! If you're not sure or have concerns, it may be best to play on the safe side and do the bypass or replace the radiator. $100US is cheap insurance compared to the price of a new transmission! I'm not sure if Australia Pathys are made in Spain or Japan? If you live in Australia, I would go by what the forums are reporting there. They are probably more reliable than what info we have in the USA regarding those models.


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## peterdsdoyle (Oct 27, 2014)

Thanks for your reply.
The early Australian built pathfinders are Spanish built, VINs starting with VSK are Spanish. I have already performed the bypass as a temporary measure, I am deciding on whether to replace the radiator or add an additional radiator. I have read the Australian forums as well as many in the US, I like to compile all facts before I make a decision. 

I have also spoken to many automatic transmission experts on this issue and it seems there is no conclusive understanding of the issue or solution; some say it may be due to electrolysis or the fluid corroding the heat pipes others the plastic/metal constant heating and cooling with very high ATF.
It also appears Nissan is not the only motor car company to have this problem in fact many Fords currently have this issue here in Australia.

So I am wondering if replacing the radiator is going to solve this issue or perhaps there is an underlying engineering/design fault, there are many variables that come into play here . I'm thinking either go full metal radiator or add an aux radiator.

thoughts anyone ?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

We know what the failure is. The metal, integral cooler inside the lower tank of the radiator has a seal that fails, allowing the cross-contamination. There's a YouTube video where a trans shop cut open and removed the cooler from the lower tank, installed hoses to it and applied air pressure while the cooler was placed in a tank of water. It points out the seal that fails. It was simply a poorly designed radiator cooler by Calsonic, the Nissan-owned company that supplies the radiators. 
Cooler failure can happen to any radiator, but, overall, failures are pretty rare (except those with design problems like our Pathfinders). They've been using this design for decades (my '65 Ford Mustang has a radiator with an integral trans cooler) and in some vehicles, the radiator will have two integral coolers: one for automatic transmission fluid and another for engine oil.
When I replaced mine three years ago, there wasn't much available as far as all-aluminum radiators for the R51's. I spent $92 on a Chinese-made, aftermarket radiator I found on Ebay and so far it's worked out very well. Stillen Motorsports' site states it'll have an all-aluminum radiator available in De. 2014 for $350; if I hadn't already replaced mine, that would be the way I'd go.


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## taprack2 (Feb 3, 2015)

Double post....sorry.


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## taprack2 (Feb 3, 2015)

So, will replacing the radiator completely fix the problem? I just bought a 2005 Pathfinder and am completely freaked out. Also, is this problem inevitable?


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

taprack2 said:


> So, will replacing the radiator completely fix the problem? I just bought a 2005 Pathfinder and am completely freaked out. Also, is this problem inevitable?


yes, provided the new radiator does not fail in the same way
no reason to be "freaked out"
either replace the radiator or do the "by-pass" to prevent the possibility


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Well, it's not inevitable, but there is an abnormal amount of failures of the radiator coolers in the 05-10 models, especially during the first three years. The integral cooler design always has the potential to fail and cause cross-contamination, but it is a design that has been very reliable on the whole and used for decades. I worked for Nissan as a tech from 1985 through 2003 and never once saw a Nissan radiator cooler tube fail. It wasn't until the 2005 models that it suddenly became an issue. The original radiators are made by Calsonic, which is owned by Nissan. I have yet to hear of any cooler problems occur on aftermarket radiators or on the "updated" Nissan part. Bypassing the cooler and using only the factory auxiliary cooler works for most people and provides sufficient cooling. It doesn't benefit from the warming of the trans fluid nor the additional and more efficient cooling potential of an integral cooler, so it may not be the best option if you live where there are extremes of cold temperature or if you do heavy towing. For me, $100 on parts and a few hours of labor was cheap insurance, so I chose to replace the radiator with an aftermarket part.


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## Mikes150 (Feb 24, 2015)

Hi, So my mom has a 2006 pathfinder that was having this issue. I know this post is old but here is what we did. Flushed transmission, pulled pan installed new filter, installed new radiator and an after market transmission cooler, capped the old lines that go into the transmission. The repair man said the transmission looks fine and doing this will prolong the life of the transmission. he gave us a jar of tranny fluid that he pulled out during the flush and it was grey and milky. the radiator had the same grey residue and the antifreeze was like a jello. we get the pathfinder back tomorrow and I will let you know if it runs better.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Installing the extra trans cooler was a waste of money. Those that are bypassing and only using the factory auxiliary cooler and are measuring the trans fluid temps are seeing 150-165 degrees F., which is actually a little on the cool side. ATF should operate in the 175-200 degrees F. range normally. Since you replaced the radiator, the bypass isn't really needed. Hopefully the flush will work out for you. The major problem seems to be once the trans is contaminated, the solenoids tend to start failing not long after, even after the fluid is flushed, and it is difficult to find the solenoids unless you dump $900+ for a whole valve body assy.


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## McCadders (Jun 1, 2015)

*Mines just gone*

Well, I found this thread too late. I started to get a rumbling sound when cruising with a steady throttle around 62kmh, a slight increase in gas and the rumble went. Dropped into the dealership for a regular oil change and tire rotation, mentioned the noise, only to get a call an hour later with a potential fix of just under C$7,200 for a new tranny and radiator!!! My 07 Pathfinder has 204,000km on it so its passed the extended warranty (160,000km) they gave because of this issue, that I didn't even know about!

Thoroughly p*ssed off with this one. The trucks only worth C$10k on Autotrader if that, so spending 7k to keep it on the road is a waste of money. Other than this issue the truck is in perfect condition and would've lasted another 100k at least. Buddy has a Honda Pilot with 350,000km on it, no issues whatsoever.

No more Nissan's for me.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

McCadders said:


> Well, I found this thread too late. I started to get a rumbling sound when cruising with a steady throttle around 62kmh, a slight increase in gas and the rumble went. Dropped into the dealership for a regular oil change and tire rotation, mentioned the noise, only to get a call an hour later with a potential fix of just under C$7,200 for a new tranny and radiator!!! My 07 Pathfinder has 204,000km on it so its passed the extended warranty (160,000km) they gave because of this issue, that I didn't even know about!
> 
> Thoroughly p*ssed off with this one. The trucks only worth C$10k on Autotrader if that, so spending 7k to keep it on the road is a waste of money. Other than this issue the truck is in perfect condition and would've lasted another 100k at least. Buddy has a Honda Pilot with 350,000km on it, no issues whatsoever.
> 
> No more Nissan's for me.


I can easily understand your dissatisfaction.
It's sad that you did not have the benefit of being a forum member before the failure, as it is easy to avoid with a very minimal bit of effort (30-40 minutes of labor), and no additional parts are even necessary.
Sorry..........


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## McCadders (Jun 1, 2015)

Thanks kukla, hind sight and all! I took it to another guy, Master Mechanic with Nissan for years, got his own shop now. He checked the fluid and said it was ok! Thinks the noise / vibration I'm hearing could be the torque converter in the bell housing and nothing to do with the transmission. Fingers crossed!


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

McCadders said:


> Well, I found this thread too late. I started to get a rumbling sound when cruising with a steady throttle around 62kmh, a slight increase in gas and the rumble went. Dropped into the dealership for a regular oil change and tire rotation, mentioned the noise, only to get a call an hour later with a potential fix of just under C$7,200 for a new tranny and radiator!!! My 07 Pathfinder has 204,000km on it so its passed the extended warranty (160,000km) they gave because of this issue, that I didn't even know about!
> 
> Thoroughly p*ssed off with this one. The trucks only worth C$10k on Autotrader if that, so spending 7k to keep it on the road is a waste of money. Other than this issue the truck is in perfect condition and would've lasted another 100k at least. Buddy has a Honda Pilot with 350,000km on it, no issues whatsoever.
> 
> No more Nissan's for me.


Just curious, if you don't mind.
Did you buy your truck new?
The reason I am asking is that I bought both of my 2005s new, and i received a letter (and warranty supplement sticker for my warranty manuals) from Nissan for both trucks outlining the extended warranty on the trans/radiator problem.
That was sometime back before 2010.
If you bought your truck used, Nissan would not know to contact you.
But if you bought it new, then you should have gotten notification.
Here's a copy of the letter:
NissanAssist.com


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

I've got my fingers crossed for you too!
What was the dealerships basis for the recommendation of a new trans & radiator?
What inspection(s) did they do?
All it takes to determine contamination is inspection of a sample of the trans fluid.
Sometimes the problem is obvious just by checking the trans fluid on the dipstick.
The dealer may have been really remiss in their recommendation (a rather expensive one, no less).
If it were me, I'd verify one way or another and call them up on the block for it if they weren't justified.
I have a *VERY* bad taste in my mouth for dealerships in general.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

McCadders said:


> Thanks kukla, hind sight and all! I took it to another guy, Master Mechanic with Nissan for years, got his own shop now. He checked the fluid and said it was ok! Thinks the noise / vibration I'm hearing could be the torque converter in the bell housing and nothing to do with the transmission. Fingers crossed!


u-joint & wheel bearing wear are fairly common at higher mileages like yours.
have they been carefully checked?


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## barkster (Jun 26, 2015)

*2006 SE with 185,000 miles*

I just had this failure. I'll likely buy the E-bay radiator to replace that, but I'll let AAMCO replace the trans with a rebuilt (by Global Powertrain).

My question to revive this old thread is...

Are there any good third-party auxiliary cooler options/additions/mods, so that I can perhaps safely and reliably by pass the integral cooler?

Thanks in advance for your previous pain, suffering, and experience.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

barkster said:


> I just had this failure. I'll likely buy the E-bay radiator to replace that, but I'll let AAMCO replace the trans with a rebuilt (by Global Powertrain).
> 
> My question to revive this old thread is...
> 
> ...


If you have a North American-made model, then it came equipped with a factory auxiliary cooler in front of the A/C condenser. Bypassing is as simple as re-routing the cooler lines on 05-07 models and capping the ends of the cooler fittings on the radiator. There is no need to add an additional cooler, as the auxiliary cooler provides enough cooling on it's own, unless you are doing very, heavy towing a lot of the time. The disadvantage of the bypass method is that you lose the radiator's integral cooler ability to warm the fluid, which could be helpful if you live in an area that sees extremely cold temps. I've installed a $92 Ebay radiator in my 06 LE four years ago and its been working fine. I bypassed my 08 SE about a year ago and it's been fine, as well.


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## barkster (Jun 26, 2015)

It is North American, I'm living in Maryland but moving to Tennessee. I don't tow anything now, but had plans to occasionally tow a trailer for small tractor.

Sounds like bypassing is OK for me.

FYI... had the new trans and radiator installed by AAMCO. Starting getting CEL error P0335 (crankshaft), VDC and SLIP lights illuminate and remain on, engine sputters under heavy acceleration in 2WD and sputters under moderate acceleration in 4WD... and the A/C no longer worked.

How's that for service?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you had the radiator replaced, then there's no need to bypass it. There have been no reported problems that I've heard of with either the updated Nissan radiators nor the aftermarket replacements. Radiator integral trans coolers have been used for decades and are usually quite reliable, however, Calsonic had an issue with the seal in the oil cooler on a number of their radiators which caused the issues with cross-contamination. A faulty crank position sensor can cause all of the symptoms you describe. When an engine management issue is detected by the ECM, it may disable traction control, causing the VDC/Slip lights to illuminate, and since the A/C is also computer controlled, I would imagine it has the ability to turn that off to remove the load from the engine during the drivability malfunction. Bad crank position and cam position sensors are far from being unheard of in a number of Nissan engines. That said, it's still best to stick with the genuine Nissan part rather than an aftermarket version.


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## joweevee (Aug 13, 2015)

*Random inquiry has turned into worry about Radiator*

To start, thanks smj999smj for your expertise. I will now use the forum to review more things about my truck, but I hope it does not make me more worried. 
I have a 2005 Frontier LE 4x4 crewcab, purchased new in Feb 2005 here in Phoenix AZ, that just hit 130k miles. About every 33k miles I have replaced all the fluids at a shop (because I lived in condo complexes), not just regular oil changes, but now I am working on doing it myself (cause I now have a house), including the P1446 code that just came on and replacing brakes and shocks which i have not had to do yet either. 
I was just making a random inquiry wondering..... when, if ever, I should replace my radiator, as well as other things, in trying to do preventative maintenance as opposed to waiting for something to break, to keep this truck running forever, because I love it (like my 93 Miata with 235k miles). I came across this thread and am now concerned. I have had no cooling problems, but am now concerned, wondering if I should take your advise to use the Aux Cooler, and consider getting that after market radiator you mentioned. My radiator shows: 12110400-1, Calsonic, 21460-EA265, F01055A07040. Trying to be preventative, it seems this would be best, instead of just hoping my truck was one that won't ever have the problem.


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## barkster (Jun 26, 2015)

Follow-up....
AAMCO fixed the CEL issue. Engine runs fine... except....

1. I'm not sure what kind of radiator they put back in. A lesser spec? It doesn't seem to handle the heat load that my OEM radiator did. I'm still having problems with AC cutting out when I idle, and not cooling nearly as good as before when I'm at a highway speed.

2. The engine/transmission seems to "pulse" when at idle (and hot). For example, when I'm at a stop light during a hot day... If I only apply the brakes lightly, the engine periodically revs slightly and engages the transmission just enough to make the truck want to surge forward a bit. It will do this every 5-10 secs. Hard brakes will keep me in place, but the engine pulsing continues.

Neither were present before the transmission failure. Simple fix? or back to AAMCO?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

joweevee said:


> To start, thanks smj999smj for your expertise. I will now use the forum to review more things about my truck, but I hope it does not make me more worried.
> I have a 2005 Frontier LE 4x4 crewcab, purchased new in Feb 2005 here in Phoenix AZ, that just hit 130k miles. About every 33k miles I have replaced all the fluids at a shop (because I lived in condo complexes), not just regular oil changes, but now I am working on doing it myself (cause I now have a house), including the P1446 code that just came on and replacing brakes and shocks which i have not had to do yet either.
> I was just making a random inquiry wondering..... when, if ever, I should replace my radiator, as well as other things, in trying to do preventative maintenance as opposed to waiting for something to break, to keep this truck running forever, because I love it (like my 93 Miata with 235k miles). I came across this thread and am now concerned. I have had no cooling problems, but am now concerned, wondering if I should take your advise to use the Aux Cooler, and consider getting that after market radiator you mentioned. My radiator shows: 12110400-1, Calsonic, 21460-EA265, F01055A07040. Trying to be preventative, it seems this would be best, instead of just hoping my truck was one that won't ever have the problem.


The "-EA265" part number signifies you have the original radiator and it has the potential to fail. That doesn't mean it will, but it could, and most of the radiator failures have occurred on 05-08 model years, especially 05 and 06. I wouldn't take a chance on it. I would bypass the radiator cooler or replace the radiator before it potentially becomes a problem.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

barkster said:


> Follow-up....
> AAMCO fixed the CEL issue. Engine runs fine... except....
> 
> 1. I'm not sure what kind of radiator they put back in. A lesser spec? It doesn't seem to handle the heat load that my OEM radiator did. I'm still having problems with AC cutting out when I idle, and not cooling nearly as good as before when I'm at a highway speed.
> ...


If the issues weren't there until you left the AAMCO shop, I would take it back and complain.


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## xrayboy1 (Aug 30, 2015)

Hi everyone, I just bought a used 2006 Pathfinder 4WD and did a search after a friend mentioned there was a radiator/transmission leak problem.

Thank you smj999smj, your expertise has been especially helpful.

I immediately popped the hood after finding this site and found my 2006 Pathfinder does have the Calsonic radiator but the model number is 92100 EA500 (A7-A0702002).

Is this one of the potential faulty radiator and needs to be replaced or bypassed? -or (fingers crossed) Has the radiator already been replaced with an corrected Calsonic model?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

xrayboy1 said:


> Hi everyone, I just bought a used 2006 Pathfinder 4WD and did a search after a friend mentioned there was a radiator/transmission leak problem.
> 
> Thank you smj999smj, your expertise has been especially helpful.
> 
> ...


Part # is for the A/C condenser, not radiator. I replied to your PM.


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## ziprun01 (Nov 2, 2015)

*09 Suzuki Equator*

smj99smj- wondering if you can help answer a question. I own a 2009 Suzuki Equator, manufactured by Nissan, looks like the Frontier but for decals, and stumbled across this site. Checking my RAD, it is a 21460-ZL5KB, and being Suzuki has left the US, would you know if they are also subject to the same failure. It has a sticker right on top with that number and Calsonic.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I'm familiar with the Equator. I haven't been able to find that part number under Nissan or Suzuki part catalogs, so I'm assuming it's a Calsonic part number. To be honest, I can't find a whole lot of information regarding the Equator and radiator failures. I know they didn't make a large quantity, I believe less than 6000, but one would think a Google-search would pull up something? The range of failure-prone radiators were from 2005-2010, so if you can't find any more information, I would recommend doing the bypass or replacing the radiator, since both were built on the same assembly line. The radiators on the aftermarket run about $100 for name-brand units and less for Ebay generics and I have heard of no problems with their coolers. For that much money, it's cheap insurance compared to risking a leak that could ruin your automatic transmission.


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## ziprun01 (Nov 2, 2015)

*Equator 2009 by Suzuki Replacement RAD*

Thanks smj999smj, I placed an ebay order tonight for a $75 (shipped) replacement radiator. 

New Radiator For Nissan Frontier Pathfinder Xterrra Suzuki Equator 4.0 V6 5.6 V8

New Radiator for Nissan Frontier Pathfinder Xterrra Suzuki Equator 4 0 V6 5 6 V8 | eBay


I'll look but advise on any other parts that might be needed for replacement and also type of coolant needed?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan uses green and blue long-life coolant, but I don't believe they started using the blue until 2010. If you have the green, you can use any green or universal color coolant, i.e. Prestone, or you can stick with the Nissan Green. There are foam seals on the tanks of the radiator that don't come with the aftermarket radiators. You can get by without them or get new ones from Nissan; they aren't expensive. Remember that the pressure or vent cap on the system is on the reservoir, not the one on the radiator, which is used for filling the system initially. If you start the engine with the radiator cap off, the coolant will blow out and make a mess all over the place (I know from experience)!


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## ziprun01 (Nov 2, 2015)

Thanks again. Would you have the part numbers for the radiator foam seals that Nissan will have?

I expect my new beast on Monday so I'll start preparing for replacement.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

These are the numbers I find for the radiator seals on a 2009 Frontier:

21496-EA000, 21497-EA000, 21496-EA010, 21496-EA020


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## ziprun01 (Nov 2, 2015)

Thanks, I removed my old radiator today and ready to install new one as soon as it arrives. Called local Nissan and ordered those items to pick up in the morning. Thanks for your help.


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## ziprun01 (Nov 2, 2015)

*Job Finished*

Thanks again for the help. Finished the radiator replacement today. All well.




ziprun01 said:


> Thanks, I removed my old radiator today and ready to install new one as soon as it arrives. Called local Nissan and ordered those items to pick up in the morning. Thanks for your help.





smj999smj said:


> These are the numbers I find for the radiator seals on a 2009 Frontier:
> 
> 21496-EA000, 21497-EA000, 21496-EA010, 21496-EA020


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## andresrossini (Nov 9, 2015)

I am looking to purchase a 2008 pathfinder with 96k miles. I would do the by pass method right away, but how could I easily check at the dealership (either with a test drive or dip sticks) that there is currently no tranny problems before I buy it. 

Thanks for all the great info on this thread, I wouldn't be buying this car if it wasn't for all the knowledge you guys have shared here.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Couple of things you could do. First, I would have the dealer give you a Carfax report on the vehicle, which would show if there was any radiator replacement or transmission work done to the vehicle in the past. Look at the top tank of the radiator. On Nissan radiators, the word "Nissan" is molded into the top tank and there should be a Calsonic sticker on the driver's side of the top tank, near the radiator cap. If you have a part number of 21400-EA215, -EA265, or -EA200, you have the original, factory radiator that is prone to failure. The good news is that if the ATF is not showing signs of contamination, which would be streaks of white in the red ATF or, in worse case scenario, a strawberry custard, chances are the radiator has not failed, but you do know you should have the radiator replaced or bypassed to prevent the possibility of cross-contamination due to cooler failure. If you have 21400-9CA2E, the radiator has been replaced, however, there have been a few failures reported with the early versions of these radiators, as well. If the radiator was replaced in 2010 or later with this part number, it should be okay. No cooler failures have been reported that I am aware of with the aftermarket replacements. 
To check the dipstick, you'll need to removed the 10MM head screw that holds the dipstick, which is on the passenger side of the engine and has a black, rubber top. 
As far as driving symptoms, the usual thing people have reported is a high speed "shudder" while driving. It's often the shift solenoids that get affected first, but the solenoids can't be replaced without purchasing the expensive TCM/valve body assembly. There have been a few that caught the problem early and despite a little cross-contamination, were able to save the transmission with several flushings of the fluid, but those tend to be the minority. If you do service the ATF, remember to not use regular Dexron III/Mercon. Nissan Type "J" or "S" ATF is specified by Nissan, which is the same as Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF. Most aftermarket synthetics work just find and are less expensive, but make sure they state they are recommended for Nissan Type "J" and "S" applications. Personally, I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in a 1-gallon jug, which works out perfectly for a drain and fill. The drain plug gasket is Nissan 11026-01M02.


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## lester (Nov 12, 2015)

*92100 EA500 (A7-A0702002)*

hi! smj999smj, just to confirm. In reference to xrayboy1 question. Rads with batch the number 92100 EA500, are they good? Thanks.


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

So what is the 'extended warranty' - that is, what are the limits? I have a 2008 Frontier. I purchased it new in July of 2008. I have 40K miles on it. Am I still under the extended warranty? 

I don't recall getting any notification - email or snail mail from Nissan. The only thing I get from them is junk mail selling services.

If I'm under the warranty I'm gonna continue to drive it as is. If it croaks, Nissan can fix it. If I'm not under warranty, or if I'll be out of warranty soon, I'll have to fix it myself.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

laughton2 said:


> So what is the 'extended warranty' - that is, what are the limits? I have a 2008 Frontier. I purchased it new in July of 2008. I have 40K miles on it. Am I still under the extended warranty?
> 
> I don't recall getting any notification - email or snail mail from Nissan. The only thing I get from them is junk mail selling services.
> 
> If I'm under the warranty I'm gonna continue to drive it as is. If it croaks, Nissan can fix it. If I'm not under warranty, or if I'll be out of warranty soon, I'll have to fix it myself.


Radiator extended warranty applies to failure of radiator and subsequent damage and is as follows:


-Up to 8 years/80,000 miles, whichever comes first, extended warranty coverage applies with no customer co-pay.
-After 8 years/80,000 miles, whichever comes first, up to 9 years/90,000 miles, whichever comes first, extended warranty coverage applies with customer out of pocket expense limited to $2,500.
-After 9 years/90,000 miles, whichever comes first, up to 10 years/100,000 miles, whichever comes first, extended warranty coverage applies with customer out of pocket expense limit in the amount of $3,000.

If it were me, once you get to July of 2016, I would replace the radiator with an aftermarket unit or do the cooler bypass. $2500 is still a lot of money to pay and a lot more than the cost of replacing the radiator as "preventative maintenance."


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

lester said:


> hi! smj999smj, just to confirm. In reference to xrayboy1 question. Rads with batch the number 92100 EA500, are they good? Thanks.


"92100-EA500" is not a radiator batch number; it is the part number of the air conditioner compressor located directly in front of the radiator. Radiator part numbers start with "21460-XXXXX." Any radiator that has an "EA-" part number, i.e. "21460-EA215," would be suspect as a potential for failure. Nissan later counter-measured the part number to "21460-9CA2E."


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

smj999smj said:


> Radiator extended warranty applies to failure of radiator and subsequent damage and is as follows:
> 
> 
> -Up to 8 years/80,000 miles, whichever comes first, extended warranty coverage applies with no customer co-pay.
> ...


Thanks for the info smj999smj. I agree with your recommendation. I drive so little that I'd be risking the $2500-$3000 for only two more years of warrant. That's only 10K miles for me.

I'll look around for a mechanic to replace my radiator with an after market unit. I live in a pretty rural area - it may not be easy to find one (mechanic). I'll check with the dealer first - to get a price from them. Maybe I can haggle a little - if it's with $200-300 I might let the dealer do it. It would depend what kind of warranty they give with their radiator replacement.

Thanks again for the help.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Dealer warranty is 12 months/12000 miles. I've heard they've added a radiator to their "Value Line" that is quite a bit cheaper than the "regular" Nissan part. It's still more expensive that what's on the aftermarket, though.


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

I talked to the dealer (St Paul) that I bought my Frontier from - 2008 Nismo - new 7/08 - 40K miles. He said it would be $1150 to replace the radiator. I have retired since I bought the truck. I now live closer to Duluth MN. The Duluth dealer said $575. The difference must be the new model radiator that Nissan came up with. 

I'll wait until my warranty is just about up and then spend the $575. I hate to have to do it. Nissan thinks they are helping with their extended warranty. But it really isn't much (help). 

I didn't rag on either service manager - it is what it is. I know this kind of thing can happen to any manufacturer. But it's what they (manufacturer) do that separates the men from the boys. I'm going back to Toyota. If anybody asks, I'll tell them Nissan is a third rate company pretending to run with the big dogs. They have now shown their hand - they lose.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Consider having the work done a reputable, independent repair shop. The genuine Nissan radiator isn't any better quality than what's available on the aftermarket. Labor time is 3.0 hours. A dealer price of $575 isn't bad, though.


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

Happy Thanksgiving to all you Nissan drivers...

I live 30 miles from town. I don't have a relationship with any shop. My Toyotas have never required any work - just maintenance. I do have a local guy who's pretty good - Gulf War Vet with some physical issues. I try to give him business. He does light work - brakes, fluid maint, small stuff - your hood won'd close, etc. He could do this - don't know if he would. But if there's a problem he doesn't have the means to stand behind it. Nissan will probably give me a warranty on the work. 

This week I got an Nissan Parts Ad in my email box. They had some pretty good sale prices. But no Frontier radiators available. Go figure. We have to buy one so why give us a break?


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

laughton2 said:


> Happy Thanksgiving to all you Nissan drivers...
> 
> I live 30 miles from town. I don't have a relationship with any shop. My Toyotas have never required any work - just maintenance. I do have a local guy who's pretty good - Gulf War Vet with some physical issues. I try to give him business. He does light work - brakes, fluid maint, small stuff - your hood won'd close, etc. He could do this - don't know if he would. But if there's a problem he doesn't have the means to stand behind it. Nissan will probably give me a warranty on the work.
> 
> This week I got an Nissan Parts Ad in my email box. They had some pretty good sale prices. But no Frontier radiators available.* Go figure. We have to buy one so why give us a break?*


why do you have to buy one?


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## jackson74 (Nov 28, 2015)

*2006 Auto Frontier Question*

Hi,

I just bought a 2006 auto 2wd Frontier.. I needed a truck rather quickly and this was in my range and the deal worked out... I went to check it out with little research other then a brief look and saw good reviews (they were obviously lower miles before hitting this problem)

Luckily about a week into owning this I discovered this problem and my fluids are green and normal..

I live in NJ and am looking for the best thing to do.. Bypass? Get a new radiator? if so what is the general consensus on the best radiator to get and avoid the trans failure?

Thanks fora any help... Could not sleep last night as I can't afford a major problem.. This truck was a transition to hopefully use a couple years without major problems until I can move into something newer...


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## R51 (Feb 26, 2016)

*first post*

First of all, I'd like to say this is the most comprehensive source on the subject I've found. I've read snippets here and there in reviews and even the official complaint site isn't as thorough.

*smj999smj*, you are a stud!

I've been in the market for an R51 for a couple weeks now. I accidentally stumbled on this model while searching for a family car and fell in love.

Out of the 4 I physically looked at, at least 1 had the problem, one never got back to be regarding the inspection report and the other looked fine but was too dinged up. I settled on an 113k '06 LE which looked immaculate except a broken cup holder and console latch.

I was going to take it home today pending an inspection. Some bad news but overall good considering it had not yet experienced the catastrophic leak. A bad tie rod was the most worrisome issue besides...the 4wd being inop. I googled and obscurely found some posts where that has happened when the battery dies. Which was exactly what happened at the dealership lot before the inspection. Oddly the mechanics found the battery to be in working order? Like the post said it mysteriously returned to working order by the time the inspection was over. Hope there's not an underlying issue.

Anyways, I plan to take it in to a shop and have the radiator replaced ASAP when I finally have it in possession. I already put an offer in on the CSF.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

R51 said:


> First of all, I'd like to say this is the most comprehensive source on the subject I've found. I've read snippets here and there in reviews and even the official complaint site isn't as thorough.
> 
> *smj999smj*, you are a stud!
> 
> ...


There are service bulletins on both the broken latch and the cup holder. The latch is available separately in several colors, so you'll need your trim code to get the right one. 
The cup holder at the back of the console is also available separately, but the TSB will show where to check to see if one needs just the cup holder assembly or if the console, itself, is in need of replacement. You can find both of these TSB's in the "knowledge base" at NissanHelp.com.
As far as the 4WD problem, check for stored trouble codes. If you have codes for the transfer case pressure sensors, try this: locate the transfer relay near the brake booster. Remove the relay from the harness connector and tighten the pins of the harness connector using a pin or similar tool. Take a small piece of Scotch pad or some light sandpaper and clean up the pins of the transfer relay. Reinstall the relay and erase the trouble codes. This is an issue on models with the "AUTO" mode transfer case. The pins spread slightly and create a poor connection, which prevents the transfer pump motor from operating on the transfer case. The transfer pump is a secondary pump used to supply lubrication to the wet clutch in speeds below 35 MPH, while in reverse or at idle. Above 35 MPH, the mechanical pump provides the lubrication and the transfer pump is turned off. 
As far as the CSF radiators, I know of one person that had some leak issues with the one they got from Stillen. It was one of the first ones, so hopefully they have corrected whatever the problem was.


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## R51 (Feb 26, 2016)

Good stuff, like always. I'll definitely check those things out once I get possession of the car.

I think I'll skip the stillen and go with the one from Canada. I think it said it was made in India on Amazon.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Spectra Premium is in Canada and is a popular choice.


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## Stbud (Mar 18, 2016)

Hi all just bought a used 2006 frontier. Bypassed the radiator transmission cooler, but I'm wondering if my radiator was actually replaced by the previous owner. The sticker that would denote the part number on the top of the radiator is not present on mine, so I have no way to tell which part number I have.

My question is there anywhere else on the radiator the part number would be listed? I've spent a good amount of time looking but can't seem to find it anywhere.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It would be only on the top tank. Genuine Nissan radiators also have "Nissan" molded into the top tank. Most aftermarket replacements have no sticker on the top tank and do not have "Nissan" molded into the top tank, so, if you don't have those, you would likely have an aftermarket replacement rad.


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## Stbud (Mar 18, 2016)

Thanks for the reply smj!

Here are a few pictures of the top of my radiator.
So based on your experience, would I be safe in undoing the bypass mod and using the radiator transmission cooler as it was designed?

Not sure if the images below will show, so here is the link to my google drive containing the pictures:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5YIVC8-T0CDT3ZTcHlpR1FYUEU


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Stbud said:


> Thanks for the reply smj!
> 
> Here are a few pictures of the top of my radiator.
> So based on your experience, would I be safe in undoing the bypass mod and using the radiator transmission cooler as it was designed?
> ...


That's an aftermarket replacement radiator. You should be fine with using it's integral cooler, if you want.


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

Been a while since I've been on this forum since I had sold off my PF. However, I just repurchased a used 2005 PF, the same as what i used to have. I was lucky before and didn't run into any radiator/tranny issues but not so lucky this time. The new PF I got has got tranny fluid in the rad, having the stall issues and rough running tranny.

My mechanic took a look and said there doesn't seem to be any radiator fluid in the transmission fluid and the coloring of the transmission is the proper color. If I do a complete replace of the rad with an aftermarket one, should I be ok without having to replace the tranny?


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

djyamyam said:


> Been a while since I've been on this forum since I had sold off my PF. However, I just repurchased a used 2005 PF, the same as what i used to have. I was lucky before and didn't run into any radiator/tranny issues but not so lucky this time. The new PF I got has got tranny fluid in the rad, having the stall issues and rough running tranny.
> 
> My mechanic took a look and said there doesn't seem to be any radiator fluid in the transmission fluid and the coloring of the transmission is the proper color. If I do a complete replace of the rad with an aftermarket one, should I be ok without having to replace the tranny?


if the tranny is acting up because of a contamination issue, a new radiator is not likely to help
tranny fluid in the radiator will not cause the tranny to act up, but coolant in the tranny fluid definitely will cause it to malfunction
i think it's almost unheard of that the contamination will only go one way and not the other
is it possible that when you bought the truck, that the prior owner changed the tranny fluid prior to the sale, to cover up the contamination issue?


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

kukla said:


> i think it's almost unheard of that the contamination will only go one way and not the other
> is it possible that when you bought the truck, that the prior owner changed the tranny fluid prior to the sale, to cover up the contamination issue?


That's what I thought but after driving it around now for a bit (trying not too much), you would think there should be discoloration in the tranny fluid, right, even if it had been changed?


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

djyamyam said:


> That's what I thought but after driving it around now for a bit (trying not too much), you would think there should be discoloration in the tranny fluid, right, even if it had been changed?


......maybe
depends on how it was changed
has the radiator been by-passed?
if the radiator had been by-passed, and the trans fluid flushed & changed entirely, there might be no visible evidence of coolant in the trans fluid at this point
but the damage may already be done


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

Doesn't look like radiator has been bypassed. Tranny fluid still in it because of the milky color.

I am concerned damage may be done.

Bunch of error code lights come on. Mechanic diagnosed it as need to replace the CAM sensors and air-to-fuel ratio sensors.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

so you have trans problems AND sensor problems?


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

kukla said:


> so you have trans problems AND sensor problems?


Unfortunately, yes.

I'll either get a "hiccup" if accelerating and the gear jerks for a split second and the slip and VDC lights go on. Or it'll stall while driving and the same lights go on. I pop it into neutral to pull over and then have to restart it but you have to crank it for a bit.

Pretty sure tranny has issues but was really hoping it wasn't


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

regarding the sensors, if you are sure they need replacement, I'd recommend that you stick with OEM replacements as some of the aftermarket replacements can be "dodgy"
regarding the transmission, coolant, radiator, fluids, etc, if it were mine, i would by-pass the radiator and do a thorough fluid exchange for the transmission and cooling system, using only the recommended fluids or equivalent
this may not repair a damaged trans as such, but may be a valuable diagnostic step in determining (symptomatically) what will eventually need to be done


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

Yeterp - thanks for reminding me. I have a 2008 Frontier (40K miles) that has about 1 month of transmission/radiator warranty left (for free replacement if failure occurs). I intend to call them and get a price. Last winter they said (not a real quote) $500+. For that I'll have the dealer fix the problem. But I don't really trust that price. I'm not sure it was a service manager - more of a salesman type. The conversation was made over the phone. 

I intend to keep the truck - I have a snow plow on it. But if I ever want to sell it I think a dealer fix will be more useful than my local mechanic installing new trans cooler. 

I wish there were a way to get a sample of the trans fluid before the fix. I fear a trans failure AFTER the fix - with me on the hook. I would like to get a trans fluid sample and send it in for testing. But the trans system is sealed - no dipstick. There must be a drain plug right?

Maybe I should fix it and then sell it... 

I have nothing against the truck - but Nissan should fix this for free. Toyota would have (fixed it for free). Again, the truck seems to work well - but I'm done as a Nissan customer because of lack of support. I'm not really mad, just intend to go with a manufacturer that offers better support.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

laughton2 said:


> Yeterp - thanks for reminding me. I have a 2008 Frontier (40K miles) that has about 1 month of transmission/radiator warranty left (for free replacement if failure occurs). I intend to call them and get a price. Last winter they said (not a real quote) $500+. For that I'll have the dealer fix the problem. But I don't really trust that price. I'm not sure it was a service manager - more of a salesman type. The conversation was made over the phone.
> 
> I intend to keep the truck - I have a snow plow on it. But if I ever want to sell it I think a dealer fix will be more useful than my local mechanic installing new trans cooler.
> 
> ...


...........there is a dipstick, and there is a drain plug


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

kukla said:


> ...........there is a dipstick, and there is a drain plug


I have not found a dipstick for the transmission. I'm sure there's a drain plug.

If there's a dipstick it's hidden. I have had the oil changed at the dealer until it was out of warranty. The last two changes have been at a Valvoline fast-lube. Both times they crawled all over the engine bay looking for the dipstick. 

Also, there is nothing in my owner's manual about checking the auto transmission fluid. Nothing under 'auto', 'automatic' and nothing under 'transmission'. I think it's a sealed system. 

I have to call the dealer on Monday - I'll try to remember to ask them. I'll post what I find.


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

laughton2 said:


> I have not found a dipstick for the transmission. I'm sure there's a drain plug.
> 
> If there's a dipstick it's hidden. I have had the oil changed at the dealer until it was out of warranty. The last two changes have been at a Valvoline fast-lube. Both times they crawled all over the engine bay looking for the dipstick.
> 
> ...


hardly hidden, maybe unrecognizable to you
it's a few inches inboard of the engine compartment fuse box & relay box, bolted to a coolant pipe that runs from front to rear
see pgs MA-22 to MA-24 in the service manual for proper use:2006 Nissan Pathfinder Service Manual - Loose Sections - Free with Registration - Nissanhelp.com


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's on the right side of the engine compartment. It has a black rubber knob on top of it and there is a 10MM head bolt that secures it to the dipstick. It's there; you just have to look. A fluid sample can be obtained via the 19mm drain plug on the bottom of the pan or by disconnecting a cooler hose and pouring some into a container. Drain plug would be the easiest.


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## Joe1974 (Jun 29, 2016)

smj999smj said:


> Nissan never released what part numbers were in the affected range, but -EA215 and -EA265 are the older part numbers and you likely have a radiator that could "potentially" fail. That part number has been replaced by 21460-9CA2E. I would recommend you do the bypass or replace the radiator. Stillen will have an all-aluminum radiator available soon for about $350, which is much cheaper than the genuine Nissan, plastic tank, radiator which costs $450 online. As mentioned in post #6, I used an aftermarket radiator that was less than $100 and it has been doing fine for three years, knock on wood!


I have 2006 pahtfinder and the radiator part number is 21460-ZL11A I don't know if they replaced the original or if this model had that radiator also.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Joe1974 said:


> I have 2006 pahtfinder and the radiator part number is 21460-ZL11A I don't know if they replaced the original or if this model had that radiator also.


That's the number of a replacement radiator.


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## 05niss (Jun 30, 2016)

I just bought a 2005 pathfinder with 93,000 miles on it and found this forum. In looking at the radiator I am seeing the name calsonic and numbers 92100 EA500 A7 A0702002 not seeing this number. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? I was just starting to do a bypass but thought I would check it out first.
Thanks!


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## 05niss (Jun 30, 2016)

Forget about the post I reread and found its not the radiator I looked at. Sorry


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## 05niss (Jun 30, 2016)

I guess I'm still needing some help. I located a sticker on the top of the tank but it says 063014 8012807 2807? That's all I can find. Any help is appreciated


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## 05niss (Jun 30, 2016)

Well I guess I keep asking a question and finding the answer later. My apologies.
I did find that number is from a company called APDI from Parts Geek. My question now would be is this a decent radiator and does it do the trick? 
Is there anything else I should do?
I am planning on doing a tranny flush and replace.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You should be good with that radiator. I have not heard of any problems with the aftermarket replacements in regards to the cooler, so far, and I moderate at TheNissanPath.com, which is a Pathfinder specific forum with a lot of R51 traffic. There shouldn't be any need to flush the transmission, either, as the factory-fill is synthetic. A simple drain and fill should be sufficient. I also wouldn't waste $9/quart on Nissan-matic "J" or "S" ATF; it is the same as Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF, but just in a genuine Nissan labeled container and a bumped-up price. Personally, I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF which I get from Walmart in a one gallon jug for $17.50. I have two Pathfinders and have been using it for five years and it works fine. One thing I like about it is that after a couple of services, the fluid drains out in a cherry red color and looks like regular ATF on the dipstick. The Nissan ATF looks almost clear on the dipstick and looks brown when you drain it. FYI, the drain plug gasket is the same as the oil pan drain plug gasket: Nissan 11026-01M02. I buy them by the bag on Ebay.


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## 05niss (Jun 30, 2016)

Thank you for the help and advice. I am sure I will be reading this forum a lot more often.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Another good site, especially for R50 and R51 owners, TheNissanPath.com; I moderate there, as well. It gets a lot more Pathfinder-specific traffic. 

The Nissan Path :: The World Wide Nissan Pathfinder Owners Forum :: R51 / R50 / WD21 :: www.TheNissanPath.com


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## laughton2 (Mar 18, 2005)

kukla said:


> hardly hidden, maybe unrecognizable to you
> it's a few inches inboard of the engine compartment fuse box & relay box, bolted to a coolant pipe that runs from front to rear
> see pgs MA-22 to MA-24 in the service manual for proper use:2006 Nissan Pathfinder Service Manual - Loose Sections - Free with Registration - Nissanhelp.com





smj999smj said:


> It's on the right side of the engine compartment. It has a black rubber knob on top of it and there is a 10MM head bolt that secures it to the dipstick. It's there; you just have to look. A fluid sample can be obtained via the 19mm drain plug on the bottom of the pan or by disconnecting a cooler hose and pouring some into a container. Drain plug would be the easiest.



It *WAS* hidden to me. The electrical cables for my snowplow cover it. Thanks for the pictures smj.

I got the cheap radiator installed, by Nissan, today. I didn't see any reason to spend another $500 for the more expensive radiator. Both are designed and made by Nissan - the odds that the good one is as bad as the cheap one and that either is as bad as the original are about the same. 

$560 out the door. I know that I could do it cheaper with an after market trans cooler. But I wanted original Nissan parts installed by a Nissan dealer - in the event I trade or sell the truck.

FWIW - the snowplow works great on this rig (NISMO with locker).


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You probably got the Nissan "Key Value" line radiator. Their value line is made by an OEM supplier to Nissan specs at a more competitive price and a lesser warranty. It'll work and give you piece of mind over the original, failure-prone part.


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## Mtnski (Jul 13, 2016)

Does anyone know if this issue affects the 2.5L diesel version of the Pathfinder? All the references I have seen have been to the 4L petrol.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's mostly a North American issue, but I have heard of a few failures on Australian models that have radiator cooler failures. I'm not sure if they were on the diesel or petro models, though, and it's certainly not on the scale of the North American failures. There are no diesel models in North America.


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## Oldgeek (Jul 16, 2016)

I bought a 2006 SE a couple months ago with the old defective radiator still installed. No cross contamination so I went the bypass route for less than $20. I live in Southern Illinois so extreme cold or heat aren't a problem here. Thanks to this forum, I found out about the defect in the Trans cooler/heater and took care of that issue right awy. Thanks!


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## kukla (Apr 1, 2010)

Oldgeek said:


> I bought a 2006 SE a couple months ago with the old defective radiator still installed. No cross contamination so I went the bypass route for less than $20. I live in Southern Illinois so extreme cold or heat aren't a problem here. Thanks to this forum, I found out about the defect in the Trans cooler/heater and took care of that issue right awy. Thanks!


congrats & welcome!


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

djyamyam said:


> Doesn't look like radiator has been bypassed. Tranny fluid still in it because of the milky color.
> 
> I am concerned damage may be done.
> 
> Bunch of error code lights come on. Mechanic diagnosed it as need to replace the CAM sensors and air-to-fuel ratio sensors.





kukla said:


> regarding the sensors, if you are sure they need replacement, I'd recommend that you stick with OEM replacements as some of the aftermarket replacements can be "dodgy"
> regarding the transmission, coolant, radiator, fluids, etc, if it were mine, i would by-pass the radiator and do a thorough fluid exchange for the transmission and cooling system, using only the recommended fluids or equivalent
> this may not repair a damaged trans as such, but may be a valuable diagnostic step in determining (symptomatically) what will eventually need to be done


Ok. So an update. Replaced the OEM rad with the Spectra Premium aftermarket one. Drained the tranny fluid and it was definitely contaminated. Drained it and flushed it 4 times. Test drove it and seemed smooth. Limited slip light came back on so wound up replacing the CAM sensors and test drove it again. No sensor light problems this time. Also was definitely smoother with the replacement CAMs.

Test drove it for an hour yesterday and it seemed to be smooth. Maybe a bit of back and forth shifting at the upper end (in and out of overdrive) but could be me just being hypersensitive and thinking something there that isn't. I also drive a standard as my daily driver and don't drive an automatic much. Stomped on the gas a number of times and it shifted up and down super smooth.

My concern now, like everyone else's is "did I catch it in time?" It does have 265K kms on it. If I didn't, what would be the indicators that the tranny is done? It won't just stall on me like it did before, right? Rough shifting?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The most common symptom that I hear about on contaminated transmissions is a vibration felt at highway speeds. Or course, an abnormal shifting or slippage could be an indication.


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## djyamyam (Aug 23, 2004)

smj999smj said:


> The most common symptom that I hear about on contaminated transmissions is a vibration felt at highway speeds. Or course, an abnormal shifting or slippage could be an indication.


Latest update is not good. Replaced the rad, flushed, added ATF treatment. 

Was good for a week and now have the slippage problems and getting error codes with the P174 error code of solenoid. Looks like it was damaged before I could get to it.

Here's my question now. I found a wrecker that has a tranny with 76K kilometers (not miles) on it. I asked him if if the solenoids were good on it and he said they thought so as there were no notes on it. Would a tranny with that number of kms on it be ok? Not sure if I should cut my losses now or keep going.


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## 24sevnlibrarian (Apr 23, 2015)

Are you saying the 92100 EA500 part number is NOT for the radiator? My radiator is leaking coolant which is visible on the upper header running down the passenger side and onto the ground. I have had the radiator bypass completed with an external cooler in place. I would love to know if the radiator still needed to be replaced even with the bypass? Thank you so much!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

92100-EA500 is not the radiator, rather the A/C condenser in front of the radiator. The bypass is used to avoid problems caused by an internal cooler leak. If you have an external coolant leak, than you need to replace the radiator.


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## mikeja (Jul 25, 2017)

*'08 Pathfinder radiator bypass*



smj999smj said:


> You probably got the Nissan "Key Value" line radiator. Their value line is made by an OEM supplier to Nissan specs at a more competitive price and a lesser warranty. It'll work and give you piece of mind over the original, failure-prone part.


Hi, I realize this thread has been dormant for a year or so, but I recently purchased an '08 Pathfinder and did the bypass. Afterward I realized that my radiator had a "key value" sticker on it and associated serial #. Would you recommend switching it back or leaving it as is with the bypass?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

mikeja said:


> Hi, I realize this thread has been dormant for a year or so, but I recently purchased an '08 Pathfinder and did the bypass. Afterward I realized that my radiator had a "key value" sticker on it and associated serial #. Would you recommend switching it back or leaving it as is with the bypass?


Opinions will vary on this topic. Personally, I would hook the cooler lines back up to the radiator (since you've confirmed it as a replacement part) and utilize the radiator's integral cooler, which not only provides additional cooling capacity (if needed), but also serves to warm the transmission fluid quicker and maintain in better in its ideal range of 175-200 degrees F. 
Some will argue that as long as the transmission cooler inside the radiator is being utilized, the "potential" for failure, which would result in engine coolant/transmission fluid cross-contamination, will always exist. This is also true. But, keep in mind that radiator-integral oil coolers (be it transmission fluid or engine oil or both) have been used in automobiles and trucks for decades and has proven to be a pretty reliable system, on the whole. Outside of the ones in the 2005-2010 Pathfinders/Frontiers/Xterras, I have never come across or heard of a radiator cooler failure in any Nissan vehicle in the 16-years I worked as a Nissan technician nor in the other almost 10-years I worked I worked as a technician for other dealers or independent shops. 
So, the choice is really yours to make. There are many who have bypassed only and are doing just fine; I ran my 2008 for about a year like that. Personally, I prefer to keep the vehicle operating as it was originally designed, so, when I got a good deal on a Koyorad, I went ahead and replaced the radiator and did away with the bypass...and I replaced the radiator and retained the use of the cooler on my 2006 Pathy, as well.


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## mikeja (Jul 25, 2017)

Thank you for the quick reply smj999smj! I read this entire thread and your advice has been most helpful! I think I will follow your suggestion and reconnect it to take advantage of the original system's cooling/heating advantages that it was designed for, as it sounds like the chances of a failure (although remotely possible) are negligible with the "aftermarket" radiator. Thanks again for your help!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I also moderate at another site, thenissanpath.com. There are a lot of R51 Pathfinder owners over there and this has been a pretty hot topic over the past several years. We have an entire thread dedicated to the radiator/transmission failure issue.


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## mikeja (Jul 25, 2017)

Oh wow! Good to know. I will check that site out as well. Thanks again!


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## Leejm (Aug 9, 2017)

*Anyone know of OSC 2807 radiators?*

Found on rockauto and it says it solves original failure design issues plus it's enhanced for better heat transfer? Doesn't break the bank and sounds like it's a good choice for solving this problem. This is for an xterra 2008 btw.


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## Shepski (Sep 5, 2017)

Unreal information smj999smj! As a potential R51 buyer... either a 2007 or a 2010 does the extended warranty also apply in Canada? 

I have cut and pasted much of the info you have provided if we do get a Pathfinder.

Thanks and Cheers!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I'm not sure what the warranty provisions for are in Canada. Keep in mind that many of these 2007-2010 models are beyond the limits of the extended warranty already due to mileage and soon to be out on time if they aren't already out on mileage. If you are considering an R51, I would recommend getting a 2011-2012 model.


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## Shepski (Sep 5, 2017)

smj999smj said:


> I'm not sure what the warranty provisions for are in Canada. Keep in mind that many of these 2007-2010 models are beyond the limits of the extended warranty already due to mileage and soon to be out on time if they aren't already out on mileage. If you are considering an R51, I would recommend getting a 2011-2012 model.


Thanks for the heads up. 2011s are about 8-9 grand more than 07s where I'm at. Hoping to find a lower mileage 07/08 but we'll see.

Cheers


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

True, but 2010 and earlier models had the most problems...especially the 05-07 models. They were all prone to radiator cooler failures, fuel sending unit problems and a number had upper timing chain issues. You spend a little more, gut you get a model that had most of the "bugs" worked out of it.


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