# Timing chain replacement disaster. :(



## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

I thought I'd finally tackle my rattling timing chain this weekend. I was just about ready to pull the front cover today when a bolt broke when I was removing the oil pump:lame:. My brother helped me install an easy out om the broken bolt but I don't have a tool at the moment to turn the easy out. I am wondering if at this point if i should attempt to find a tool to turn the easy out and remove the oil pump and possibly finish the timing job or if I should break down and go to a mechanic. Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions. Would it be possible to remove the front cover with the oil pump installed to it??? 

ps. both distributor cap screws broke off too


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If memory serves correct, the oil pump shaft goes up into the cover from the bottom and engages the gear on the camshaft. You need to remove the oil pump before you can remove the cover.


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

I finally was able to drill the bolt out with a cobalt bit. I had to get a new oil pump. Now i have another question. I accidentally moved the crankshaft slightly when the timing chain was off, I moved the crank back a little in an attempt to re align it with the cam.. How do I make sure the crank is in proper orientation with the cam?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Look at the crankshaft pulley "0" mark; it should line up with the block pointer.


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

OK, I'll make sure the mark is lined up.


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## estetic (Aug 6, 2009)

Also the crank and cam key ways will point to 12 o'clock - there is a mark on the cam and crank sprocket the colored links of the new timing chain will line up with these.


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

Yeah I am going to get the crank as close to 12 as possible. Maybe that will also help with get the tension on the t chain correct. At the moment the chain seems to hop on every rotation and move the colored links out of whack.


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## estetic (Aug 6, 2009)

Any luck?

Are you sure the chain is actually coming off the sprockets?

Not sure of the exact ratio but after lining up the marks there will be several rotations before they are in the same position (lined up) again...


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

estetic said:


> Any luck?
> 
> Are you sure the chain is actually coming off the sprockets?
> 
> Not sure of the exact ratio but after lining up the marks there will be several rotations before they are in the same position (lined up) again...


The crankshaft makes two rotations for every one rotation of the camshaft, thus a 2 to 1 ratio. 

"If" everything is installed correctly, "and" the timing components are not worn excessively there is no way the chain can jump. If the chain jumps, obviously there's a big problem.

-R


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

Just thought I'd update you guys. The chain, sprockets, guides, and tensioner are all now installed. The engine turns to tdc compression with the crank pulley "o" mark lined up on the pin on the front cover and at the same time the dark colored link on the chain is lined up with the mark on the cam sprocket. I put the front cover on and am going to install the oil pump next. I was just wondering how you "prime" the oil pump before installing it.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Priming the oil pump, you can use motor oil. You just pour it into the pump and turn the gears enough to coat them. Read this post first... http://www.nissanforums.com/1194053-post3.html

I personally use engine assembly lube. It stays in the pump and won't get all over the oil pump gasket while you bolt the pump up. I really prefer not to get motor oil on any gasket or mating surfaces during assembly, but some times it can't be helped. You can wipe the mating surfaces off with a clean rag and a little brake clean if you need to.

That said, there are probably lots of guys that have gotten away without priming the pump at all. I wouldn't ever skip that step. It may fail to pick up oil during start-up. I also fill the oil filter with oil ahead of time.

-R


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

Do i pour the oil in the hole where the long shaft slides into? I guess my real question is where do i pour oil into the oil pump?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

tkisling said:


> Do i pour the oil in the hole where the long shaft slides into? I guess my real question is where do i pour oil into the oil pump?


Well, you've got two choices, the inlet or the outlet holes. It matters not as long as you get the pump gears oil coated by turning the spindle a little. Pour it in one end, rotate the spindle back and forth a few times. When you see some oil coming out the other hole, you are good to go. It's that simple.

-R


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

Thanks I will do that


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## estetic (Aug 6, 2009)

after my rebuild i pulled the plug wire between the dist and coil and the fuel pump relay and just bumped the motor over a few times (8-10 seconds or so per bump) until the the oil light went out...


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

estetic said:


> after my rebuild i pulled the plug wire between the dist and coil and the fuel pump relay and just bumped the motor over a few times (8-10 seconds or so per bump) until the the oil light went out...


VERY good idea to do this! I even always crank mine over by hand just to make sure all spins in sync, but free cranking as described above to get the oil flowing before building a fire in it is important.

-R


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## tkisling (Oct 27, 2008)

Well shes back together and running good. I still have a few problems to fix:

1. Front cover has a leak
2. The half moon semicircle gasket is leaking at the back of the valve cover
3. the distributor needs to be replace since the cap mounting holes are destroyed and the cap is being held on by wire

The leak on the front cover isn't too bad so I think i can drive the truck until I get a chance to fix it. I think i need to just reposition the half moon gasket on the valve cover, getting the back one on is PIA.


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