# Fuel And or Spark



## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

Ok I bought a 90, 240sx with a KA24e stock motor in it.

has 170k miles, guy I bought it from said it ran fine, for him, then it stoped.
He thought it was a bad fuel pump, but I hear it turn when I slowly turn the key, so thats not the problem, I took out the spark plugs and there was gas on them, so I left them out, then I did a compression test. No blown gaskets.
Put the spark plugs back in and took off the Cold air intake, and sprayed some starting fulied in there and turned it over, it didn't start.
Then I noticed it had gas on the headers under the Fuel Injectors.

So I asked my dad about it and he said it might be a stuck fuel injector...
or it's not getting spark at the right time.

So Any help would be good, thanks.


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## Nismo240 (Jul 24, 2004)

that gas is leaking onto the intake manifold, i would replace the injector o-rings. if that doesn't work, check the timing.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

What would be the best place to buy those, would it be better to buy whole new injectors, or no? Also, what would I need to do to buy for the timing, like now a timing chain something completely different right?


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## Nismo240 (Jul 24, 2004)

you can get them at any auto parts store or a dealership. as for the timing, check and make sure everything it in time together. i can't remember how to do it on the KA, but you can find write ups on how to do it. if you want, you can buy a whole timing chain kit, which will come with guides, chain, etc.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

If I got that timing chain kit, should I also buy vavles, just in case the timing went out and bent some vavles? All and all together, with the Vavles and the Timing and injectors would it just be better to buy a new SR20DET s13 or s14 engine?



EDIT, Ok, I was looking on the forum for a timing chain topic, and links would be good. Also, how would I know if I need a new timing chain and what not? After I redo the O-rings and if that don't work?


EDIT,


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It looks like you're getting fuel because of the wet plugs. Check for ignition by using a spare spark plug with each of the four ignition wires. Pull off #1 ignition wire, plug it into the spare plug, lay the plug on the valve cover. Spin the motor over and look for sparks. Do this for the rest of the ignition wires.

If there is no spark at all the wires, then the distributor cap/rotor may be bad or the ignition coil may be bad.

If you're getting spark at all wires, then the ignition timing may be incorrect. 

Here's how to check it:

First you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to check the timing. To find TDC, remove the #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO.

Remove the distributor cap; the rotor should be pointing to the #1 wire position on the cap.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

rogoman said:


> If you're getting spark at all wires, then the ignition timing may be incorrect.
> 
> Here's how to check it:
> 
> ...


Ok, I would first like to say "Thank you." Those are by far the best instructions, that is like you word it from the book, it's 9pm here, I'll beable to post what were the results. 

If the timing belts didn't slip, or they are in correct postion, then what else might it be?

I know it's getting spark, I did a test, on all four plugs.

So I think it might be something to do with the Injectors, or Timing.

So yeah, I know I may be repeating my self, but after doing the test like you suggested, and the timing is fine. Would it be the injectors and after I replace the injector o-rings. What else might it be?


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## Nismo240 (Jul 24, 2004)

idk really, my SR is having a similar problem right now. it turns over but doesn't fire. i was told that the timing chain was stretches, but in my case it makes perfect sense as to what happened before it started doing this. but like i said, it wouldn't hurt to get a timing chain kit and replace everything. that should honestly fix it.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

Ok, I'm going to see about heading to autozone or pep boys and buy one..

Yeah I'm not able to go, no ride. . . 

Ok so yeah I looked on the bottom of the belts for a number or arrow and can't find on, so yeah.
Any pictures or something would help out a lot.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

Ok, it seems like my timing is off. . . by like 4 inches.

So later today I'm going to go buy a timing chain kit...
I'll post how that works out when it's done.


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## Alex523 (Mar 6, 2008)

Ok, yeah. . . I guess I didn't do it right, I did the TDC thing again, it's lined up...

So my timing is correct...

Now I guess it might have something to do with Fuel, Can't buy any parts, No car, + work, + doing work my self...

So right now I'm just at a lose on what to do, I don't know where to begin, or what to do....


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

OK, so the ignition timing is correct and there is good spark? At this point here are the other items to check:

- Major vacuum leak. Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

- You may have leaking fuel injectors. To test them, unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold and pull off the entire assembly. Keep the fuel hoses still connected and don't remove any individual injectors. Also keep the electrical connectors on the injectors. With the assembly now away from the intake, turn the ignition key to the run position WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE. Now observe each injector to look for leaks. There should be no drips.

Make sure you have at least 4 spare insulator rings for the injectors in case some are damaged during rail removal.

- The crankshaft position sensor that's inside the distributor may be bad. First check the harness connector for it.

- The IACV air regulator valve may be bad.

- The cam timing may be incorrect. Here's how to check it:

First disconnect the ignition coil wire, remove all the spark plugs and remove the valve cover. Have someone tap the starter while you have your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole. Once you feel compression, insure that the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the zero mark on the pulley: if not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO.

Remove distributor cap and insure that the rotor is pointing to #1 firing position. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. The keyway for the cam sprocket should be at the 12 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.


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