# B13 - Tire widths & wheel widths



## dho (May 15, 2002)

What are the widest tires/wheels that can be put on the B13 all around? I've got 195/50/15's right now and I've seen others with 205/50/15's. Also, for the street, are Kumho 712's about the best tires for the price, handling, mileage, and everything else? Does it matter which rating it is? I've seen some in H, V, and W.


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## Adam (Apr 30, 2002)

Don't take my word for it, but I believe 7-7.5 inches is the widest wheel that would fit, but you probably wouldn't want much more than that. That's if you don't use spacers or anything of course.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

I've got 15x6.5" Enkei RS6's and I can't find any wider tires than the 205/50/15's. I keep seeing these racing 15x7 or 15x7.5 and 14x7's but what about the tires? Also, does it really matter how wide or is it the type of tire that you put on the wheels?

I've got the kumho 712's but they seem to loose grip in the front when doing turns. Are those goodrich S3-pole or those type of tires as good as they claim to be?

Thanks.


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## sentrapower93 (May 11, 2002)

I have 15x6.5 Rage 5.0 wheels with some 195/50/15 Falken ZE-502 tires and my car handles sweet. I can take turns at pretty high speeds with no problem, my se-r rear sway bar with ES bushings helps alot also. I'm very pleased with the way my car handles. Your tire/wheel set up is very close to mine, and your Kumhos are better than my Falkens as far as grip is concerned. Not sure why your car slides to much on turns, you may wanna check your air pressure. I run 32psi in front and 30psi rear and my sentra feels very balanced when taking hard turns, shit sometimes i get a bit of oversteer which is fun. 205/50/15's will give you a bit more grip but they are heavier and your speedo will be off by a few mph, and since a 205 is a bit taller it will slow you down cause it will give you a higher gear ratio. Bottom line stick with the 195's....


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

sentrapower93 said:


> *I have 15x6.5 Rage 5.0 wheels with some 195/50/15 Falken ZE-502 tires and my car handles sweet. I can take turns at pretty high speeds with no problem, my se-r rear sway bar with ES bushings helps alot also. I'm very pleased with the way my car handles. Your tire/wheel set up is very close to mine, and your Kumhos are better than my Falkens as far as grip is concerned. Not sure why your car slides to much on turns, you may wanna check your air pressure. I run 32psi in front and 30psi rear and my sentra feels very balanced when taking hard turns, shit sometimes i get a bit of oversteer which is fun. 205/50/15's will give you a bit more grip but they are heavier and your speedo will be off by a few mph, and since a 205 is a bit taller it will slow you down cause it will give you a higher gear ratio. Bottom line stick with the 195's.... *


That's cool, I just drive my car hard  Maybe I need more defensive driving courses... Oh well, I'll check my tire pressure on all the tires soon. I've got Suspension Techniques front and rear anti-sway bars, front and rear strut tower braces, eibach sportline springs, and kyb gr-2 struts. I guess the spinning tires through the turns in the front could be fixed with a Phantom Grip LSD, right? Also, with the rear strut tower brace that was just installed not too long ago and the 100lb stereo, the car feels like it's over steering... Thanks,


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Not that this matters to you:

I autocross with 13x7" mini stock wheels with 5" backspacing and 205/60R13 R tires (38psi all around). The front tires rub the plastic inner fender shields, and the rear fender edges needed to be rolled for clearance.

I am running Tokico springs and "blues," and ST bars. I have -2.3° camber front and -1.3° camber rear, and 0° toe. I have a hand-fabricated front STB. I have been fighting oversteer all season. 

I run 15x6.5" 38mm rims with 195 Kumho 712s on the street (35psi all around) and have no complaints. Check your alignment if you are understeering excessively.

I am looking at going to 13x9's and 235/45R13 V700's in a few years, but have to check for clearance first. I will run 215's next season.

Greg

www.geocities.com/g_wellwood/automotive/sentra.html


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Skinny G said:


> *Not that this matters to you:
> 
> I autocross with 13x7" mini stock wheels with 5" backspacing and 205/60R13 R tires (38psi all around). The front tires rub the plastic inner fender shields, and the rear fender edges needed to be rolled for clearance.
> 
> ...


How do the 205/60R13 R tires feel on the track compared to the 195/50/15's? Do you know if the Potenza S-03 Pole Position 205/50/15's are good tires? Also, to let you know my experience with tires, I ran the Kumho 712 205/50/15's on my 15x6.5" rims and they rubbed in the wheel well in the rear. I had the fender cut and tucked but it didn't touch there, it touched kinda where the top of the wheel well is. That's the main reason why I'm asking about the tire widths. Could it just be that my car's lowered with the Eibach Sportline Springs or is it the KYB GR-2 struts not being stiff enough?

Do Z rated tires give better traction/handling than V rated tires?

I don't know how to describe the steering... if feels neutral some days, other times it kinda feels like oversteering, and the other times it feels like understeering. Could it depend on the tire temperature? I also have an upgraded rack & pinion with a 2.7 lock-to-lock ratio vs the factory 3.2.

Thanks for all your help,


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

dho said:


> *How do the 205/60R13 R tires feel on the track compared to the 195/50/15's?*


The 13's are Toyo Proxes RA1's. The sidewalls are a bit soft, so with 38psi in them they are about as responsive. The grip is hands down easily *WAY* higher than the 712's. If you've never run R tires before, you really don't know just how massively fun they are.



> _Also posted by dho _
> *I had the fender cut and tucked but it didn't touch there, it touched kinda where the top of the wheel well is.*


Sounds like your rear springs are too soft, or the tires are too wide/tall. What is the offset of your rims? OEM is 40mm. I run 38mm and I have no rubbing problems at all with 195's.

The stiffness of the struts should not affect the rubbing, once you are into a steady-state corner, and all the weight transfers to the outside, the strut will comopress with the spring until everything stops moving - if there is no movement, the struts aren't doing anything. I think it's a spring issue (or offset issue).



dho said:


> *Do Z rated tires give better traction/handling than V rated tires?*


Generally speaking, increased speed ratings are merely the construction of the tire being able to withstand higher speed/centrifugal force. Most higher speed rated tires come with softer tread compounds, which would improve traction too. To throw a wrench into the "Z tire is better" theory, my race tires, clearly stamped "Recommended for competition events only" on the sidewall, has no speed rating whatsoever.



dho said:


> *I don't know how to describe the steering... if feels neutral some days, other times it kinda feels like oversteering, and the other times it feels like understeering.*


Could be your driving. Try taking a freeway on/off ramp at a steady speed and see what it feels like. There are many lists of suspension/handling tuning tips on the net and in books - try to find out where/when it consistantly understeers and oversteers. If its inconsistant - it's you, not the car.


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## SERprise In WV (May 15, 2002)

Lose the ST front sway bar (go back to the stocker), and you'll notice that your car rotates MUCH better. Putting the thicker front bar on just brings back the understeer that you dialed out with the ST rear sway bar. Pushing or plowing through turns is understeer. 

205 or 195 tires are the same diameter, despite what was said above. As long as the aspect ratio (50 in this case) is the same, those two widths won't be any shorter/taller than the other. 

You can fit a 205 with 40mm backspacing, on a Classic. Any wider on the rear and you will hit the strut.


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## sentrapower93 (May 11, 2002)

Greg are you saying that a 195-50-15 & a 205-50-15 have the same diameter, sorry man but you are wrong. Most 195-50-15's are about 22.75 in. overall dia. and most 205-50-15's are 23.15 in. overall dia., so therefore a 205 is taller than a 195 they don't have the same overall diameter...


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

Even tires in the same P-metric size can vary in actual width and offset between manufacturers. You may be surprised to find a 195 in one tire that is wider than a 205 of another!

Sentrapower93 is correct. The sidewall height of a 205/50 is 50% of 205 = 102.5mm. The sidewall height of a 195/50 is 50% of 195 = 97.5mm. That's a 5mm difference in sidewall height, 10mm difference in diameter. That's over 3/8"!

If the aspect ratio value alone determined diameter, then a 175/50R13 Euro T/A (low rider tire) should be the same height as a 215/50R13. Trust me, it ain't In fact, a 215/50R13 V700 is slightly smaller in diameter than a 185/60R13 RA1, but about the same height as a 175/60R13 A032R. Ain't math wonderful?

G


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Yea, I saw some Goodrich T/A's on a sentra with 195/50/15's and they were way wider than my 195/50/15 Kumho 712's.

So what should we (consumers) do to verify the width? At tirerack.com they show the section width then they tell you all these other things that are factors in the sizes such as how wide the wheel is, the series of the tire, the manufacturer, the width of the tire, the blah blah blah... Lets just say on the 15" rims, which brand would be best, I've done the tire rack comparison and the S3-pole came up 1st in handling all the times except for the drag tires and then kumho came in second, is this true? Kumho 712's
BF Goodrich S3-Pole
Falken
Goodrich T/A
Pirelli
Summito

Would it be better to have the 195/50/15 best tires vs. 205/50/15 not so best tires?


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## SERprise In WV (May 15, 2002)

Question: Will you *really* notice the 5mm of sidewall height? On our cars? 
Only at the ragged edge. And even then, it will be minimal. JMHO.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

I ran TSW Blades size 16x7.5 at 34 mm offset, first with 205/45-16 Yokohama AVS-Intermediates then 215/40-16 Goodrich Euro-T/A Radials. The BFGs were too soft and I bent two rims on a tar strip (yes, The Tar Strip From Hell, see my Web site). The rear tires only rubbed with passengers in the rear seat, regardless of the springs.

Since I couldn't find another Blade, I bought SSR Competitions size 15x7 at 42 mm offset shod with Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position tires. The rear wheels needed 1/4" spacers while the front s fit just fine even with NX brakes.

I found the Potenza S-03 to be the best tire I've ever used and that includes the Yoko AVS-I and Goodyear Eagle VR-50 Gatorback (showing my age).


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

So you are using 205/50/15 S-03 Poles?


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Well, that's what's on the car but it sits in the garage unregistered and uninsured. I've retired it from street duty to convert it into an SCCA ITS car. I bought the wheels and tires in October 2001 and parked the car last month.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Are you going to keep your 205/50/15's? I could use them in the future if you were just going to get rid of them. (If there's any tread on them, lol)

What does all the offset stuff mean? I'm wondering what my 15x6.5" enkei RS6's are. When I had 205/50/15 Kumho 712's it rubbed in the wheel well even with the fenders cut and tucked.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Tire Rack has a very good explanation of offset (known as back-spacing to the Detroit crowd). You want something in the 30 mm to 38 mm range. I can easily assist you indetermining your current offset if you have a rim with no tire on it. A rim with a tire poses a slightly messier procedure.

As for the Potenzas, I have no use for them other than something on which to roll the car around. They have about 2,000 miles on them, so lots of tread remain. I could be persuaded to sell them and could bring them the next time I'm in D/FW area. I'd want about $400 for 'em, though.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

The 16x7" version has 42mm offset and their 17x7" version has 38mm offset. I can't find the offset for the 15" though. Do you think it's a 44mm offset? The online discount tire place says, "15X6.5 4-100/114 38S"

Man, I wish I could afford them things. I've got $300 going to the Hypercoils for the B13 (300/200). I need a job  

Thanks for your help!


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Anyone know if 215's or 225's will fit in the rear? What offset, backspacing, wheel size, and with a 1" lowering with the hyperco's will allow them to fit or not fit? When going from factory 13" wheels with those 175/65 or whatever to 205/50/15's does that affect the turning radius a great amount? What things really matter for the street?

Maybe I should just be happy with what I have!  

Thanks everyone!


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

I had 215/40-16 on my SE-R at one time, so they fit if you don't lower the car much, and those Hypercoils better have at a rate of at least 150 lb/in or your rear wheels will rub when you carry passengers in the back seat. As I mentioned before, stick to offsets in the 30 to 38 mm range. Higher offsets will require spacers to clear the strut <Mr. Mackey>Spacers are bad, m'kay.</Mr. Mackey>. Shorter offsets put the outside edge of the tire against the fender liner.

Turning radius should be affected very little, if at all...that's determined by the steering rack and tie rods. Scrub radius *is* affected, but I wasn't too bothered by the little extra kick-back in the steering over one-wheel bumps.

For the street, wider is is usually better, but pay attention to offset and rolling circumference. Manipulate wheel diameter and tire aspect ratio to maintain stock circumference so that your speedometer is not affected. B13 SE-Rs came with 185/60-14, so that would be your "Plus 1" sizing. "Plus 2" would be 205/50-15 to maintain speedo accuracy (not 195 as most would lead you to believe), "Plus 3" would be 215/40-16 though 205/45-16 is close enough to not make much difference. I don't recommend 17" or 18" for a driver's car as wheel weight gets excessive; for posing, the bigger wheels are mandatory. 225mm tires can be stuffed under the car if stock ride height is maintained and springs are stiffer to keep the tires off the fender liners.


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## Russellc (Jun 20, 2002)

I believe that most consider the 195 to be the same circumference as the original because in fact it is, on the sentras with thirteen inch wheels. I use mich. xalto 195 50 15 on my sentra and they are as close to dead on original height as can bbe had, 205 size being just slightly taller. The ser of my same vintage came with larger wheels, so the 195 on a fifteen inch wheel would not be the same. As you may already know, there is a nifty plus size chart in the technical info, I believe it refers to plus sizing the thirteen inch wheel cars, which probably are not the same height.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

That may be so for the GA16 cars. I started with a B13 SE-R and it came with 185/60-14 as OEM. I presumed that would be "Plus 1" for dho. "Plus 1" for me was 205/50-15 and plus 2 was "215/40-16". I know all about the tire sizing thing and have quite a spreadsheet with a bunch of different combinations.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

bahearn said:


> *I had 215/40-16 on my SE-R at one time, so they fit if you don't lower the car much, and those Hypercoils better have at a rate of at least 150 lb/in or your rear wheels will rub when you carry passengers in the back seat. As I mentioned before, stick to offsets in the 30 to 38 mm range. Higher offsets will require spacers to clear the strut <Mr. Mackey>Spacers are bad, m'kay.</Mr. Mackey>. Shorter offsets put the outside edge of the tire against the fender liner.
> 
> Turning radius should be affected very little, if at all...that's determined by the steering rack and tie rods. Scrub radius is affected, but I wasn't too bothered by the little extra kick-back in the steering over one-wheel bumps.*


The Hypercoils are supposed to have 300f/200r spring rates. My turning radius felt like it was bigger than 34 ft or whatever the factory was before and after I put in my 2.7 rack & pinion with the 15" wheels. I miss doing U-turns in a residential street... I've been doing 3 point turns ever since I had the 15"s.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

2.7 rack and pinion? What's that? Are you saying you replaced the steering rack? With one that has a different ratio than what came on the car?


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Yes I did replace my rack & pinion and the Texas Steer shop replaced the 3.2 or whatever the original gear with a 2.7 gear. I'm needing to take back my rack & pinion because I was in an accident and I need to get it fixed. I might upgrade it to a 2.5 for better turnin. Anyone think this is tooo tight for street?

Going from the 1.6L 94.5 Sentra LE with that 3.27 lock-to-lock ratio to the 2.7 was an awesome improvement. It's kept me from over steering while avoiding road debris and accidents.

Does the lower ratio mean higher Turning Diameter? I noticed the SE-r's come factory with 2.7 but the non se-rs have 3.2 or so but the Se-r have a 34.1 turning diameter but the non se-r's have 30.2.

Newer corvettes have a 2.66 lock-to-lock ratio.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Steering rack numbers indicate number of turns required by the steering wheel to go lock-to-lock. It shouldn't affect turning radius.

Lower numbers mean fewer turns and _faster_ steering response. It will have no bearing on actual handling but it should improve driver control.

I have no idea what the SE-R turning radius is...it was never an issue for me.

Was the 2.7 rack physically shorter than the 3.27? If so, that would explain the larger turning radius.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

bahearn said:


> *Was the 2.7 rack physically shorter than the 3.27? If so, that would explain the larger turning radius. *


I honestly do not know. Thank you for your help though.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

bahearn - In the future, if I get a job and some $$, I'd like to get some 12 lb. wheels. I've seen a lot of 15x6.5" miata aftermarket wheels that have a 40mm offset. Will these fit okay? I know you said 30-38mm but I was just checking. At this website the gentleman talks about either the 38mm or the 40mm being more driveable.. which one is he talking about? Would the 40mm only work with the 195/50/15's and not the 205/50/15's? Is it better to have a 4lb lighter rim or to have wider tread & better tire options?


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

dho said:


> *At this website the gentleman talks about either the 38mm or the 40mm being more driveable. Which one is he talking about?*


That would be me.

I understand that the factory offset is 40mm. The wheels I am currently running on the street happen to have 38mm offset (hey, they were on sale).

My recommendation on running as close to factory offset as possible is based on my experience with very different offset aftermarket wheels on the Sentra and other projects. Since many of the engineered suspension angles were designed to use 40mm wheels, sticking to that dimension will make the car steer very much like the stock car did.

Either 38 or 40 mm will be fine - there is negligable difference. Going to my 25mm offset race wheels makes steering much more difficult, and it needs a bit of help returning to centre at times.

I would recommend 40mm. If you can only get 38mm, don't sweat it - it will still work out just fine. I have zero clearance problems with 15x6.5 38mm offset and 1.375 (or so) drop.

Miata rims (are they 15" now?) are a great idea, but you will most likely have to get the hub centres machined to fit the larger Nissan hub.

Greg


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

The whole exercise with offset is to maintain wheel centerline-to-hub-face relationship. This preserves the scrub radius engineered by the factory. Large changes in scrub radius lead to wonky steering as mentioned by Greg.

Small changes (±5 mm) should have little apparent effect on steering feel. The primary criterion should be to prevent contact of wheel/tire against the car. Sometimes you have to live with a little tire contact against the fender liner at full compression.

You can use wheels with significantly more negative offset if you insert spacers. This is a poor solution though, as you will probably need longer lugs to attain proper lug nut depth. NISMO lugs are expensive ($8.00 each!) and I had bad luck with them on my SE-R (see my web site). That said, I have the NISMO 50 mm lugs in the rear hubs and a 1/4" spacer on for each rear wheel to get the SSR rims to clear the struts. The wheels are 42 mm offset.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

*wheel studs*

What do you do if your wheel studs start lookin stripped or rusty? I've had my wheels taken off about 50 times within the last year and a half. What are the costs and procedures to replace these studs? Thanks, Dan


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

Replace with stock studs. I don't know their cost.

Front studs can be done on the car. There is a space cast into the front upright for just this repair. Place the front on jack stands as you will be wielding a hammer. With the wheel removed, screw a lug nut onto the stud until the flat outer face of the nut is flush with the end of the stud. Line up the stud with the cast-in slot. Now, and this is the scientific term, wail away at the nut with the hammer until the stud pops loose. Remove the nut and pull the stud completely out of the hub. Install new stud back through hub, place a nut with ID larger than stud over stud, then run the lug nut down (flat side down) and pull the stud through .

I don't know how the studs are attached on rear drums. On rear disc, use a big-ass breakover bar and 32 mm socket to remove the rear hub (after you removed the wheels and calipers). If the studs are attached to the drum like old Detroit iron, remove the drum from the vehicle before applying force. If the studs are pressed into the hub, remove the drum and then the hub. Using the procedure for the front, nut the studs and whack 'em out. For the new studs, if on loose hub you can just hammer them in from the back side. If on the vehicle, use same procedure as the front.


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## 95 SentraB13 (Jun 14, 2002)

I'm not an expert at this but I'll state my opinion. If you go for the 15x6.5" wheel and 195/50/15 tire then wheel rub should not be a problem. 7" you may encounter rub but with a 38mm offset you should be okay, if not shims are an option. I see many of you mention 205/50/15 and yes, your wheel height/diameter will be increased like Skinny G and sentrapower93 said.



> Sentrapower93 is correct. The sidewall height of a 205/50 is 50% of 205 = 102.5mm. The sidewall height of a 195/50 is 50% of 195 = 97.5mm. That's a 5mm difference in sidewall height, 10mm difference in diameter. That's over 3/8"!


Also, your speedometer and odometer readings will change. If you go with a 195/50/15 your readings compared to the stock 175/70R13 will change +0.14%. A 205/50/15 will have a change of +1.88%.

This chart show all the sizes when comparing to a 175/70R13
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/january99/tire.shtml

Just thought I'd throw that in the mix but you guys seem to know what you're talking about and mad things clearer to me.

*dho*...
Changing wheel studs/pins is not that difficult for the most part. You need a hammer and good aim although I would suggest taking it to a garage as you can easily bend the hub. One of my pins broke off about 2 years ago and I only replaced it a month ago. I looked around Town at most import shops and neither place carried it, not even Canadian Tire had them and they get their parts from Nissan to begin with. I ended up going to the Nissan Dealership. The guys in the garage were very friendly. Greg that works there told me to call back if I can't find anything locally and he would have it flown in. I went in 2 days later to pick up 1 pin and 1 lug nut for a cost of $6.83 I think. If I had my time back I would have bought 4 lug nuts at Wal-Mart for the price of 1 that I got at Nissan. If you're just looking for the pins/studs it shouldn't be too expensive. Hammering the pins out is not the problem, it's just knocking the new ones back in as it's a hard place to get at and the pin will probably go in on an angle. Best bet is the garage as they have the right tools to do the job.

Good Luck,
Greg


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

Thanks, both of ya'll. Ya'll are a great help, now I've got some more questions:



> Front studs can be done on the car. There is a space cast into the front upright for just this repair. Place the front on jack stands as you will be wielding a hammer. With the wheel removed, screw a lug nut onto the stud until the flat outer face of the nut is flush with the end of the stud. Line up the stud with the cast-in slot. Now, and this is the scientific term, wail away at the nut with the hammer until the stud pops loose. Remove the nut and pull the stud completely out of the hub. Install new stud back through hub, place a nut with ID larger than stud over stud, then run the lug nut down (flat side down) and pull the stud through .


What cast and front upright of what? For the last sentence, do you mean to find a nut that won't screw on, but will just fit over it a little bit and then use the regular nut and tighten it till you can no longer tighten?


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

The upright is the big cast piece that the strut bolts to. It has the spindle machined on it and the hub bolts to the spindle. The control arm is attached to it at the lower ball joint.

Yes, the extra nut is one larger than the stud, something to take space so the lug nut won't bottom out before the stud is completely seated. You can use anything.

Hey, *95SentraB13*, don't forget like I did that cheap  Sentras come with 13" wheels while SE-Rs  came with 185/60-14. For an SE-R, 205/50-15 is the better "Plus 1" upgrade. My first answer to the question didn't account for the 13" wheel.


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## 95 SentraB13 (Jun 14, 2002)

> don't forget like I did that cheap Sentras come with 13" wheels while SE-Rs came with 185/60-14. For an SE-R, 205/50-15 is the better "Plus 1" upgrade.


Thanks for pointing that out *bahearn*. I knew what size both cars have for stock but didn't want to speculate on larger sizes for the SE-R since I don't own one. Also, the 91-94 or here in Canada (91-96) SE-R is illegal due to seat belt design as far as I know so I don't have the luxury of owning one or the need to know what's what. Although I would like a SR20DE engine.


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## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

NX2000, baby. I'm aware of several Cannuck owners who frequent the SE-R list. All own NXen.

Or, buy an import JDM motor and tranny. The engine electrical harness plugs as a unit, so you can swap that for the 2.0 version. The JDM engine will probably come with a useless AWD unit, so you'll have to get a junkyard 5-speed from an NX. Heck, get the entire drivetrain from a junk NX2000 though you'll probably have to rebuild the engine. At least you get a limited-slip diff in the deal.

What was illegal, the manual belts or the mouse belts? I despise automatic belts.


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

I despise the auto seat belts too! I hate it when you brake, stop, then attempt to get out of the car and the seat belt's locked. You can't get out of the car!! (have to do the whole procedure all over again, start the car, turn off the car, open door, step out of the car.)

Anyone know how to do a manual seat belt conversion and weight reduction? (Maybe I should stop worrying about conversions and get an SE-r?)


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## Skinny G (May 9, 2002)

bahearn said:


> *What was illegal, the manual belts or the mouse belts? I despise automatic belts. *


Automatic belts? No CDN B13 Sentra's have automatic belts. What do US Sentra's have? Frankly, I can not recall any CDN car having automatic belts. There must be one somewhere....

G "Canada, eh?" Wellwood


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## 95 SentraB13 (Jun 14, 2002)

Some model B13 Sentra's in the US had automatic belts like the SE-R I think or maybe it never. The GXE might have had them, again I'm not sure.
A few CDN cars have had the automatic belts in the past, I see a few in Newfoundland driving around, not Nissan though. Our 1993 GLE Nissan Quest had automatic belts. It was a cool feature but was extremely annoying and was deemed dangerous, especially in accidents. I'm not sure if the auto shoulder thing or the manual lap belt that caused the problem.

Greg


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## dho (May 15, 2002)

I have the 1994.5 Nissan Sentra Limited Edition - USA model. It has the automatic upper seat belt. The bottom belt is manual.


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## TOOQIK (May 2, 2002)

I run 215/50/13s (sumitomos) on some no name brand 5spoke polished hammers...

and no rubbing and they are shorter than the stock tires ..


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## lue_driver (Jun 5, 2005)

*205/40 R18???*

would it make a difeerence if I put 205/40 r18 just like the mini cooper s works? does any1 know if i could put them on a 1992 nissan 200sx?


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