# Car Lost Power-wtf!!!!



## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

omg today i did a little burn out and that was all...then im driving home and im like at the light next to a civic and i want to take off on it,.....i rev up and drop clutch and guess what?....the shit excelerated like a mini van....i can do the chirping noise when taking off wtf...better yet i cant even launch the car now....takes off like an auto mini van....is there something horribly wrong with my b-13....by the way exceleration after first gear is fine(or seems the same to me)....i accelerate second like usualll...today i checked the tire pressure and front tires were at 26 and 24...back ones were at 32, 32.....im confused....im inflating the front ones tommorow also..can anyone tell me how i lost all my good launching power ? ? ?? ? please


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## XtremE (Apr 30, 2002)

Liquider said:


> omg today i did a little burn out and that was all...then im driving home and im like at the light next to a civic and i want to take off on it,.....i rev up and drop clutch and guess what?....the shit excelerated like a mini van....i can do the chirping noise when taking off wtf...better yet i cant even launch the car now....takes off like an auto mini van....is there something horribly wrong with my b-13....by the way exceleration after first gear is fine(or seems the same to me)....i accelerate second like usualll...today i checked the tire pressure and front tires were at 26 and 24...back ones were at 32, 32.....im confused....im inflating the front ones tommorow also..can anyone tell me how i lost all my good launching power ? ? ?? ? please


u glazed your disc
time for a new clutch


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

glazed your disk, what does that mean???


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

That means you don't know how to drive/race. I shouldn't really say that, but basically you've fried the clutch.

Your clutch is slipping due to too much abuse taken on by the disc. Stock clutches can only take so much before they give out. You need to get a new clutch. And stop street racing, please!


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

hmmm over excessive abuse....ive bought a different clutch like 4 months agol....i wasnt street racing i was just showing him what my b-13 has =) i was just accelerating not racing....ARGH I HATE ME CAR!!


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

Burn-outs will especially eat out the stock clutch. If you want to do something like that, a high-performance clutch kit from ACT, JWT, Clutcmasters etc. is what you should use.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

if my clutch was burnt out i would not accelerate the same way in other gears, its just ont he launch that it sux on


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## Shift1.6 (Jul 22, 2003)

Sounds like u need a new clutch. My car was doin the same thing when i bought it, it had a bad clutch. I tried gunning it once, the car was loud but it didnt go anywhere, i look at my tach and it was reving 7000 rpms but it didnt feel like 7000 rpms. Replace mine at 50,000 miles and the car never felt better.


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

a Worn out clutch is the reason why I can't break 14.92 this last summer...

You know it's worn out when I'm putting 150whp and I can't chip 2nd gear...


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## bryce (Nov 30, 2003)

atomicbomberman said:


> a Worn out clutch is the reason why I can't break 14.92 this last summer...
> 
> You know it's worn out when I'm putting 150whp and I can't chip 2nd gear...


Hey, that's weird, because mine does that sometimes too, starts out really slow, and then usually after I shift it goes to normal. But I just got a new clutch about 6 months ago. It usually does it when it's somewhat cold still though...just a thought.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

im going to inflate my tires and see whats wrong....whats a good clutch for my car>? OEM?


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## Centurion (Sep 5, 2002)

u playz, u payz: clutch.


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## BikerFry (Jul 31, 2003)

My car will probably get an ACT street clutch in the spring. I've read good thigns about them (durable, feels good/not too stiff, price seems in line with everything else.) Mine's got this whole slipping, on-off switch type of thing goin on. Kinda sticky too, probably due to a bad throwout bearing.


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

Liquider said:


> im going to inflate my tires and see whats wrong....whats a good clutch for my car? OEM?


1) And what are you expecting to get by inflating your tires? 

2) Read my posts about OEM clutches and what options you have if you want a clutch that can take the abuse.


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## Felonious Cat Stalker (May 1, 2002)

By your recent posts and the jackass driving you described, sounds like you cooked your clutch. Stop driving like an immature high school boy and you won't have so many problems.



Liquider said:


> ARGH I HATE ME CAR!!


It probably hates you too.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

why do you have to insult me =(...i feel bad...ya its my clutch i feel the slipping and exceleration all around is shot...if tires are deflated i thought you get less tire peelage..no? "Its much easier to insult someone then to help them out"....please be nice..thanks for the info guys


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## Felonious Cat Stalker (May 1, 2002)

Liquider said:


> why do you have to insult me =(...i feel bad...ya its my clutch i feel the slipping and exceleration all around is shot...if tires are deflated i thought you get less tire peelage..no? "Its much easier to insult someone then to help them out"....please be nice..thanks for the info guys


Why do we insult you? Because we give you advice on how not to mess up your car, then you go mess it up anyway. Obviously being reasonable with you isn't working, so maybe some abuse will work.

The best way to reduce wheel spin is to not drive like a jackass. There is no need to run a Grand Prix from every stop light. Smarten up, drive like a grown up and 2 things will happen. First, your car will last longer and second, you won't get flamed for your behavior.


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## zmegone (Jun 1, 2003)

you said you had your clutch replaced not too long ago well if you didn't let it break in for 500miles youll glazed it that means you werent supposed to punch it like a maniac for 500 miles after installation or it will slip.


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## 200sxOuTKasT (Feb 24, 2003)

> Why do we insult you? Because we give you advice on how not to mess up your car, then you go mess it up anyway.


Whats it matter to you if he messes up his car anyways? Are you in some sort of contractual agreement to buy him his next car? And who is we? Everyone replied with helpful tips and advice, you blatantly harassed and abused him. I think he was very grown up and mature asking you politely to speak to him with respect as he did with you. Immediately calling him a jackass was a really immature high school boy thing to do.



> Obviously being reasonable with you isn't working, so maybe some abuse will work.


I bet your wife and children love that. Sorry people aren't born full grown adults like you, incapable of ever making a mistake or even entertaining the idea of accelerating past 3000rpms on the road, because thats a immature thing to do. Just like I know you've never done it on the road ever when you just bought your brand new 03' Ford Focus, which was a huge upgrade from your b11 both in power, comfort, and style. I'm also sure if you upgraded from that Focus to say, a BMW M5, the thought of even revving your v8 at a stoplight or better yet, accelerating quickly at stoplight would never cross anyone's mind.



> The best way to reduce wheel spin is to not drive like a jackass.
> There is no need to run a Grand Prix from every stop light. Smarten up, drive like a grown up and 2 things will happen. First, your car will last longer and second, you won't get flamed for your behavior.


Because the true cause of wheelspin is driving like a jackass and not: worn tires, bad tire design, too powerful of a car, snow, hail, rocks, gravel, wet roads. You should try selling that to the tire company. The only person who is flaming his behaviour is you, everyone else tried to help him improve. Seriously, if you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

thanks again guys....if i let it break in first 500 miles then i can punch it afterwords? right now if i put it in 3rd gear at 30 mph and mash the gas, it just rev's instead of moving...darn i learned my lesson...never try burn-outs and dont punch it often.. thanks for the info guys...its clutch right? not transmittion(this one is expensive  ) thnx


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## 200sxOuTKasT (Feb 24, 2003)

Yes Liquider, all you need is a new clutch. I would suggest finding a more performance oriented clutch rather than an OEM clutch since you sound like you really want to leadfoot it (don't worry I drive in a similar way sometimes, but thats ok I'm an immature teenage boy so according to fcsmotorsports, its ok for me to drive this way). Also, 500 miles is the minimum you want to wait before really pushing your clutch, but it doesn't hurt to wait a little longer  . Since your clutch sounds pretty messed up right now, you might want to try dry shifting for the time being if it works out better for you. I wrote a quick little writeup on it earlier which you can find here... http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=42141&page=2 It's basically for people who are driving with a weak or crappy clutch, don't know if it'll be better for you or not but you might want to try it out.


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## Felonious Cat Stalker (May 1, 2002)

200sxOuTKasT said:


> Whats it matter to you if he messes up his car anyways? Are you in some sort of contractual agreement to buy him his next car? And who is we? Everyone replied with helpful tips and advice, you blatantly harassed and abused him. I think he was very grown up and mature asking you politely to speak to him with respect as he did with you. Immediately calling him a jackass was a really immature high school boy thing to do.


In the end, I don't care what happens to this guy's car. But this is an example of people coming on here, asking for advice, then turning right around and doing the exact opposite. This guy has already asked about spinning tires all the time and was told it isn't good. Then he goes and does it. Then comes back and asks what went wrong when we already told him what would happen. Sound like a thick skull to you? It does to me.



> I bet your wife and children love that. Sorry people aren't born full grown adults like you, incapable of ever making a mistake or even entertaining the idea of accelerating past 3000rpms on the road, because thats a immature thing to do. Just like I know you've never done it on the road ever when you just bought your brand new 03' Ford Focus, which was a huge upgrade from your b11 both in power, comfort, and style. I'm also sure if you upgraded from that Focus to say, a BMW M5, the thought of even revving your v8 at a stoplight or better yet, accelerating quickly at stoplight would never cross anyone's mind.


We're not talking about "accelerating past 3000rpms on the road," we're talking about going around trying to do smoking burnouts all the time. There's a huge difference here. Also, thanks for making broad and erroneous assumptions about me and my personal life. Thanks for assuming that I upgraded from a B11 to a Focus, not that I bought the B11 as a track car after purchasing the Focus. Thanks for assuming that, if I had kids, I would treat them like this. Thanks for assuming that if I had an M5 that I'd throw revs at stoplights like a high school boy.




> Because the true cause of wheelspin is driving like a jackass and not: worn tires, bad tire design, too powerful of a car, snow, hail, rocks, gravel, wet roads. You should try selling that to the tire company.


What does this have to do with the original post? Read it again. It clearly states he was trying to do burnouts and revved on someone and dropped the clutch, not that he was leaving a stoplight and the wheels spun on a patch of ice. In this case, wheel spin was caused by driving like a jackass.




> The only person who is flaming his behaviour is you, everyone else tried to help him improve. Seriously, if you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all.


In this post, yes, but I'm reffering to other posts as well, as was he. Seriously, if you don't know the history behind something, you should mind your own business.


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## Harris (Nov 11, 2002)

I'm with fcsmotorsports, I've been reading this Liquider guy's posts. Even I was very frustrated to see that he comes here asking all these questions and does the whole opposite of what he had been advised. This made me feel like all the help that other members and I provided him was a complete and utter waste of time. 

Look at it from fcsmotorsport's side, you'd be that upset too.


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

actually the burnout i tried was on a way homne from arizona....i couldnt see a car for as far as i could see...and that was when my friend decided to go outside to take a wizz...ive been driving recently and i just dont like driving anymore...i got passed by a geo metro the other day, im just waiting for thursday(pay day) and then im going to go and get me a new clutch...time to take the bus for a day or two  there is no place i know of around here that does performance clutches, but if i wait like 700-900 miles on that regular clutch then it will last some more longer right ? thnx all


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

recent news:: my dad just walked in and said that maybe the "clutch cable" is loose and needs a little tightening? i doubt it but do you guys think it could be it?


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

Liquiter, i would say you should try to learn to drive better, because under no circumstances should your clutch worn out THIS bad that quick. (My B13 is still on it's first clutch)

It's not meant as an insult, but most people who've burned out their clutch real fast and real hard usually did it because of improper driving technique and really stuipd burnout and other useless stunt.

As for your new question, i highly doubt it is your clutch cable, your pedal action will feel very different then before if that's the case. Is your throwweight still normal? If it is then your cable is fine but you've worn your clutch to the ground.

If you want your next clutch to last, you should revaluate how you drive, bad technique also hurts the tranny and motor, and when those things give out you'll be seeing big bucks starts to drain from your wallet... Not to mention driving around the top of your rpm band is just a plain waste of Gas, I don't know about you, but around here preium gas cost a butt load, you're a working man, don't throw your money away like this just because you need to feed your oversize teenage ego. I'm only saying this because I don't want t see a good B13 goes to waste, specially if yours is an SE-R, they're very rare nowadays. Drive nice and easy when you should, and drive hard when it counts, there's no need to show off, plus nobody will understand anyway, if you want a car that can turn eyes, go buy a Camero, because (and that's speaking from personal experience), nomatter how many race you've won or how big of a burn out you've done, the next day nobody would've remember because you drive a Sentra.

P.S. for furture benefit, you should really read up on what a clutch IS before you ask question like this, from what I've read you obviously don't know much about how a clutch works, let alone what a disc or a Pressure Plate is, the best way to learn to do the right thing is to spend some time to learn how the componet works, if you know what a clutch have to go through everytime you start your car normally, you would've think twice next time you feel the urge to "chrip 2nd gear" or do a fat burn out.


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

BikerFry said:


> My car will probably get an ACT street clutch in the spring. I've read good thigns about them (durable, feels good/not too stiff, price seems in line with everything else.) Mine's got this whole slipping, on-off switch type of thing goin on. Kinda sticky too, probably due to a bad throwout bearing.


It is sticky because of your clutch cable is stretched, I had the same problem for a while, you don't need throwout bearing, those almost never go bad unless you're doing what numbnut here does all the time, save the money and get a new clutch cable for 30 bucks and your clutch will feel fine again.

Trust me on this


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## 2SR20DE (May 17, 2003)

atomicbomberman said:


> It is sticky because of your clutch cable is stretched, I had the same problem for a while, you don't need throwout bearing, those almost never go bad unless you're doing what numbnut here does all the time, save the money and get a new clutch cable for 30 bucks and your clutch will feel fine again.
> 
> Trust me on this


I changed out mine... and I'm still having issues...


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

did you adjust the tension after u install in? That should at least solve the "sticky" issue with the clutch...


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## Liquider (Nov 8, 2003)

anyone know a place where i can get a ACT clutch installed here in southern california i live in 91335, City: Reseda or Northridge....Southern California...please thanks again all


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## 2SR20DE (May 17, 2003)

atomicbomberman said:


> did you adjust the tension after u install in? That should at least solve the "sticky" issue with the clutch...


Yup... something else is going on... I don't know... 

Liquider-

You can buy an act clutch from Upgrade Motoring in Northridge. They are off of Tampa if I remember correctly. There is a Carrows restraunt on Tampa and you turn down that road... They are in an industrial type complex. You can then take it anywhere to get it installed. I wouldn't buy one if I were you. Your car doesn't make nearly enough power to out power the stock clutch. You just need to take it easy for ~500 mi w/ a new clutch then don't let it slip like when your doing a burn out or something. An ACT clutch will wear out just as fast if you don't use it right. The only difference between your clutch now and an act is the pressure plate. They utilize a stockish type disc which is fine but the pressure plate clamps much harder when fully engaged. I have a stock clutch in my SE-R and it grabs just fine even in racing conditions. You need to go study how the clutch assymbly works, you will understand that there is a proper way to drive your car w/o wearing on the disc. ex. when doing a burn out you need to either just drop the clutch or slip it out quickly but don't have it half way engaged for any length of time. Your car doesn't need an ACT you will waste the $375 that it costs. Go buy a new Key Value Nissan OEM clutch from a nissan dealer and have it installed.


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## atomicbomberman (Jul 6, 2002)

Liquider said:


> anyone know a place where i can get a ACT clutch installed here in southern california i live in 91335, City: Reseda or Northridge....Southern California...please thanks again all


What kinda engine do you have? what kinda mods? if you have an SR20 you should visit SR20forum.com, people there are really friendly and a lot of them are in southcal, heck i know some of them that had done their own clutch job before, I frankly will not trust a mechanic God knows if he've ever worked with a Nissan before to pull out my Transmission. And they never put in good tranny oil after they're done. If I wasn't in college I would've changed the CV joints myself, fucking no time...

But as 2SR20DE said, you should save some money, order and Exedy clutch off either www.therpartsbin.com or ebay, you really should not need a high power clutch unless you are intended on racing (track), or you are making about 190+ at the wheels. People who REALLY know how to drive puts as little stess on the clutch as possible, all it is a speed differential between your engine flywheel speed and your wheel/transmission speed, when you hear people rev matching and heel-toeing, that's what they're doing. Anyone can do a burn out, it's not manly at all and it proves nothing except you cant' drive and have shit for brains. Master proper driving technique to really impress your friends. Proper driving techniques like what 2SR20DE and I said will make sure the clutch last, just treat your car right and it'll reward you back with bulletproof realibility and many many years of good fun.


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## BikerFry (Jul 31, 2003)

atomicbomberman said:


> It is sticky because of your clutch cable is stretched, I had the same problem for a while, you don't need throwout bearing, those almost never go bad unless you're doing what numbnut here does all the time, save the money and get a new clutch cable for 30 bucks and your clutch will feel fine again.
> 
> Trust me on this


Already replaced the cable, lubed up all nice and everything. It's still good advice though: replacing the cable actually did help a lot, so the cable was part of the problem. It sticks a lot less now, so if that were the only problem I'd leave it alone but it's slipping until it's fully engaged so eventually it's gonna be time for a new one. No hurry cuz it doesn't slip once it's engaged. No burnouts, but I do like to punch it from a light from time to time for shits and giggles and that'll be a lot more fun with a clutch that's got a >1 inch friction zone. Especially if I ever scrape up the money for an HS CAI and header while I own this car. 

EDIT: After reading the last couple posts, I see I have some more research to do. My car's never gonna make real power, so maybe I should rethink my plans... Lets say I get really ambitious and get up to 110-115ish whp, would OEM would still be fine? Assuming I break it in gently and then drive normal (gently) 90% of the time would anything be particularly better (durability and pedal feel, in that order) than OEM?


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## 2SR20DE (May 17, 2003)

BikerFry said:


> Already replaced the cable, lubed up all nice and everything. It's still good advice though: replacing the cable actually did help a lot, so the cable was part of the problem. It sticks a lot less now, so if that were the only problem I'd leave it alone but it's slipping until it's fully engaged so eventually it's gonna be time for a new one. No hurry cuz it doesn't slip once it's engaged. No burnouts, but I do like to punch it from a light from time to time for shits and giggles and that'll be a lot more fun with a clutch that's got a >1 inch friction zone. Especially if I ever scrape up the money for an HS CAI and header while I own this car.
> 
> EDIT: After reading the last couple posts, I see I have some more research to do. My car's never gonna make real power, so maybe I should rethink my plans... Lets say I get really ambitious and get up to 110-115ish whp, would OEM would still be fine? Assuming I break it in gently and then drive normal (gently) 90% of the time would anything be particularly better (durability and pedal feel, in that order) than OEM?



No need for a performance clutch... I think even with a 50 shot mine might be fine... (well I have an se-r)... and if not at that point I would replace it with an act or something. I'm getting an act just because I like the firmer pedal feel. I owned a mustang that would give you a leg cramp in traffic... it was cool... i like the feel of a performace pressure plate


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## XsjadoTwin11 (Dec 31, 2003)

When i bought my car the clutch was slipping (the guy autocrossed it and it took alot of abuse) and i would notice when i would start to accelerate (normal driving) the RPMs would go way up but i wouldnt move, same thing happend in 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th gears, it would just rev and not go anywhere, Best advice: Get a new clutch, stop abusing your car, and don't try to show up Civic boys, they no they suck


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