# 95 Pickup XE King Cab (Do it yourself Questions)



## ign0red (Mar 31, 2010)

Absolutely love my truck. It's got 141K miles on it which is half of what a friend of mine had on his which was a year older until it got smashed to bits by a dump truck (his truck was whole reason i wanted to get mine). Wondering about a couple do-it-myself things. 

1) IAC Valve Cleaning - Seen online a tutorial on how to get some electric parts cleaner, remove the IAC valve and clean it myself. Wondering if I should be worried about any seals between the valve and the rest of the truck. (This repair is because I get a rough idle when coming to a stop. The truck almost stalls and then comes back. I've done a spray cleaner that I've had to spray while manually gunning the engine which has worked a couple times but never for too long. Was told this was a viable alternative option to purchasing a new one) 

2) Shock Absorbers - Both front and back are rusted out and shot. I suspect it's the cause of a few of my woes. Are they replaceable by myself or should I be worried about a spring shooting me in the head and onto the garage wall? I have access to a lift so no worries about getting crushed under a failed jack. 

3) Belts - How difficult is it to replace the belts? It looks like there is hardly any room to work when it comes to these. 

Also - Occasionally after it's been going for a bit i'll get a clicking sound until I let it sit for a minute. Can't tell if it's exhaust related or not, already had the exhaust replaced but I think stuff may be loose with all the lack-of-shock bouncing around. 

-Sincerely 
Not Interested in spending oodles at the Mechanic.


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## beinpaz (Mar 5, 2010)

Go for it, the things you are referring to are all simple and easy procedures and unless you're changing a clutch or timing chain they are fairly easy to work on.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Four cylinder motor...right? 2WD or 4WD? The 4WD does tend to 'bounce' more than the 2WD.

Can't comment on the IAC valve cleaning...never done that one before.

Shock absorbers are fairly straight forward; bolts off, bolts on. Are they leaking?

Changing belts can be challenging as it's very tight and you're right, there's not a lotta' room to maneuver around in there (especially if you have air). Careful in there, as you might run across a coupla' pockets of Japanese that don't know the war's over. : )

One of the first things I think of when I hear people say 'clicking' is valves.

You're right, hold off on the mechanic. Save your money and do it yourself as there's lots of brains to pick on this site.


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## ign0red (Mar 31, 2010)

*First steps...*

So far, replaced the air filter, but before I did that I also tried to get at the IAC valve. VERY tight space. I went and got a ratchet set but it was too big so going after work today to get a smaller sized ratchet (can't believe there is such thing as too big). Any suggestions on how to get in there? The IAC valve is screwed in with four screws which I imagine are a pain to get out without stripping. Is this something I should only undertake if I have a fresh IAC Gasket? I think the answer to that question is obvious enough but I don't really wanna wait around for one to come in the mail. Might check local auto parts store too. Is there anything else I will need like some sort of gasket goop that helps seal it? As for a temporary band-aid I ran the truck and sprayed the air valve cleaner while gunning it and it seems to have done an okay job. I'm aware that it's nothing more than a temporary fix and not really good for the truck so I used very little and made sure I didn't go anywhere near the MAFS. As of this morning, had only one suspicious rough idle at a stop.

Ok, second part. Want to try to get the shocks done this weekend. All four are completely rusted through and have needed to be changed for a LOOONG time. I feel every bump,nitch,rock in the road. Do I have to buy any hardware seperately or should the shocks come with everything I need? Found the Nissan repair book and it looks pretty straight forward but I definately do not want to find myself short mid-job. Also says to make sure you're not turning the tension rod either. They suggest using a vice grip. Is this something I can just try not to turn? 

As far as getting to the belts i'm going to leave that to the mechanic. From what I can tell I'm pretty sure I have to dissasemble a good chunk just to get close to the belts with maneuver room. Will discuss this with uncle-in-law (has an auto-body shop with a lift that he lets me use). Maybe he knows something I don't.

Will post more later. Might try posting pics of the tiny spot that I have to get into just to reach IAC valve. Hopefully i'm not being completely stupid about this.


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## soreyes (Aug 5, 2008)

My alternator went out a couple weeks ago. i asked a question on here and someone reminded me it was easy to access from the passenger side wheel well (also hos i access oil filter. 

I broke off the clips holding the rubber splash panel and replaced them with zip ties. once that panel was off, i had great access to the alternator. the top bolt controls the pivot. undo that bolt and push the alternator body towards the engine and thats one belt loose.

Not sure about the rest.


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## Spankyzbt (Aug 30, 2004)

How old are your tires? I replaced the shocks & went to 31's aired at 28psi, and she rides very nice. you have the 4cyl? or 6cyl? Guessing 4cyl from the comment grug made about alt on the psgr side. Mine is on the driver's side.


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## soreyes (Aug 5, 2008)

Spankyzbt said:


> How old are your tires? I replaced the shocks & went to 31's aired at 28psi, and she rides very nice. you have the 4cyl? or 6cyl? Guessing 4cyl from the comment grug made about alt on the psgr side. Mine is on the driver's side.


good point, I have never looked at a 6cyl. Mine is a 4 wih pass side alt.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

update us please....


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## apmason (Jul 21, 2004)

I can comment on the shocks and belts. Both are VERY easy and shouldn't take more than an hour or two. Saves lots of $$$$$ too! Soreyes is right about the alternator access. The splash guard on the bottom, once removed, gives good access to the (i think its the) AC tensioner pulley. You don't need to do any removals except for the parts you are trying to change.


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