# Exhaust or chemical smell



## ale (Feb 14, 2006)

Hello all,
I have exhaust or some chemical smell eminating through my ventilation system. 

The car is a '95 Nissan Altima (the engine is now a remanufactured 2000 engine)

Ever since I received the car back from the shop (1 month ago), when I am in traffic & when the heat or airconditioning system is on, the exhaust or chemical smell is very pronounced. The smell makes everyone who rides in the car sick. The shop who replaced the engine claims that nothing is wrong, but they have not driven the car in traffic. The car passed inspection and an emissions test after the new engine was installed. There is no sign of any oil leak or fluid burnoff. There is no sign of any holes or leaks in the exhaust system. The smell goes away or is greatly reduced when the ventilation system is placed on recycle. After the ventilation system is used, the car smells like a mechanic's garage or an old oily car for days (I know, because this is what my old VW van always smelled like). The smell goes away after the car is left to air out for a few days and a deoderizer is used.

Any suggestions? Thanks for the help!

Aaron


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

ale said:


> Hello all,
> I have exhaust or some chemical smell eminating through my ventilation system.
> 
> The car is a '95 Nissan Altima (the engine is now a remanufactured 2000 engine)
> ...


Sounds like an anti freeze leak check under the car for any leaks


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## Darktide (Jul 29, 2004)

I agree with Londonderry.... I would actually check the radiator cap. Once they go bad they start to leak. They are cheap and easy to swap. It'll give you a sweet smell that'll make you puke (not being sarcastic). Give it a whirl, its the best place to start. If not that check your passanger side floor, if its wet you might have a heater core leak. Good luck

Darktide


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## ale (Feb 14, 2006)

*thanks*

Thanks for the tips! I will be arguing with the shop shortly.

The other issue that your replys bring to mind is the noise my A/C makes when it kicks on. The new engine swap included a new radiator, new engine, and new belts. The shop said they had to disconnect the HVAC system to install the new engine and radiator. However they say it is impossible for them to have "created" the problem. I argue that it is more likely an issue with their install. Last person to touch the system is reasonably at fault?

The A/C compressor is new (3 years old).

I used some place called Dr. Motorworx in VA. Might want to watch out for those guys.


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## ale (Feb 14, 2006)

*forgot*

I just moved from NH. I see you guys are from NH. I spent a year in "Concaard". I miss the skiing.

Aaron


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

ale said:


> Thanks for the tips! I will be arguing with the shop shortly.
> 
> The other issue that your replys bring to mind is the noise my A/C makes when it kicks on. The new engine swap included a new radiator, new engine, and new belts. The shop said they had to disconnect the HVAC system to install the new engine and radiator. However they say it is impossible for them to have "created" the problem. I argue that it is more likely an issue with their install. Last person to touch the system is reasonably at fault?
> 
> ...


Depending on the a/c noise it might be normal. Have you turned it on and see how it works? Are you getting a belt squeal?

Im' sure if I ever move to VA, I'll remember not to bring my car there.
That's without saying NH mechs are any better


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## jserrano (Oct 27, 2004)

The AC noise happens because the AC idler pulley isn't tighten down enough. That causes the AC belt to slip a little and makes that noise. I've had this problem before and have, in addition to many others, fixed it that way.


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## ale (Feb 14, 2006)

*ac pulley*

the shop that replace my engine and thus toyed with the pulleys said they can't "locate" the correct pulley to adjust/tighten. they are driving me nuts! 

I just found out I need to replace the alternator too. Is is difficult to determine the proper belt deflection after the installing the new alternator? I don't want to buy the $50 tool to test the tension.

Thanks again. This site is great. I was almost depressed when the site went down.

Aaron


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

There are two methods to adjust belt tension
One is to purchase the tool, McMaster-Carr, sells one for $25.00 witha 30-150 lb range. Off hand I don't how much deflection or force is required on the belt. 
Second is to use a straight edge, inch/ metric ruler and the haynes manual. 
With either method, you will need to know either the force or distance in belt deflection in order to properly tighten the belt. I suggest using a tool, if possible.

Frank


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

If I remember correctly belt deflection is half an inch.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

The belt deflection is measured under the car for the A/C between the idler and the crank pulleys. Trying to approximate 22 lbs of force the belt should move only 0.30 in. on a used belt and 0.25 in. on a new belt. The adjustment is underneath on the idler.

Troy


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

KA24Tech said:


> The belt deflection is measured under the car for the A/C between the idler and the crank pulleys. Trying to approximate 22 lbs of force the belt should move only 0.30 in. on a used belt and 0.25 in. on a new belt. The adjustment is underneath on the idler.
> 
> Troy



Please tell me that bit of information on new and used belts is in the service manual.


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## ale (Feb 14, 2006)

Excellent information. However, forgive my ignorance. If I were to measure the belt deflection with a ruler what am I looking for? 

Right now I assume that I should only be able to squeeze the belt to 1/2" with my fingers (or what ever the Haynes manual says). If I can squeeze more, then I need to tighten the belt more? Is this the proper technique? thank you again everyone for your responses.

Aaron


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## gfriedman (Oct 12, 2005)

^^Right. The more the belt deflects (pushes in) the looser it is and so the idler needs to be tightened. Don't worry about getting it exact (that's impossible without a tension tool anyway). Just get it close to spec and if it doesn't squeal you're golden.


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

gfriedman said:


> ^^Right. The more the belt deflects (pushes in) the looser it is and so the idler needs to be tightened. Don't worry about getting it exact (that's impossible without a tension tool anyway). Just get it close to spec and if it doesn't squeal you're golden.


All the more reason to purchase the tool.


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## jpcode (Nov 28, 2004)

ale said:


> Hello all,
> I have exhaust or some chemical smell eminating through my ventilation system.
> 
> The car is a '95 Nissan Altima (the engine is now a remanufactured 2000 engine)
> ...


I had a simialr problem but I had engine coolant in contact with air inside my heater. Just unpluging the hose comming through the bulkhead solved the problem. I don't have a heater now but I live in California and don't need one often.


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