# making 1996 sentra run after years



## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Hello, this is my second post!

I have a 1996 nissan sentra with a GA16DNE engine, and manual transmission. It hasnt been running in years and i need help on making it run.

first, the rear brakes are stuck. does anyone know what i should do to free the brakes? they are drum brakes by the way.

second, the engine might be stuck up. i have removed the spark plugs and sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinder, and i wanted to turn the engine by hand first. how do i do this? could i turn it with a wrench on the pulley? and how could i access this pulley? do i have to remove the wheel and the plastic thingy behind it?

third, i was trying to move the shift lever but it wont budge, any idea on how to make it move again?

and lastly, when i push the clutch pedal it doesnt go up anymore, what should i check?

sorry for so many questions, i really want to make my sentra run again but i dont know that much about nissan vehicles. but i do have a bit of experience in fixing cars.

thanks!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

To remove the rear brake drum, first hit the drum with a large hammer at several spots around the drum to see if it'll loosen up. If the brake shoes are tight against the drum, then remove the plug from the backing plate to access the adjuster; you can use a small screw driver to turn the adjuster to shorten it which should give the needed clearance for removing the drum.

You can use a long breaker bar to turn the crank pulley center bolt. Turn it only in a clockwise direction. If you can't access the bolt from the top, remove the passenger side tire and I believe there's an engine side cover that can be removed to give you full access to the bolt.

For the transmission, check the shift linkage for any bent components otherwise there may be internal problems.

The clutch master cylinder may not have any fluid. If so, you'll need to fill it with brake fluid and proceed to bleed the master cylinder and all the brakes.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Chances are if there is no clutch fluid, it has likely leaked out. That's the problem with letting cars sit for long periods of time; seals will go bad and metal parts will rust. The crank bolt head should be 27MM, or 1-1/16". You have to get the vehicle out of gear before you can attempt to turn the engine manually. My suggestion would be to start with the hydraulic clutch system and get that working. Once that works, you can try and get the transmission out of gear and then proceed to turning the engine.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

thanks for your replies.

since the engine is stuck, could i just force it to turn? would it damage any components? should i remove the valve cover and spray the components with penetrating oil?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Like SMJ said, You have to get the vehicle out of gear before you can attempt to turn the engine manually. The rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls which will make it more difficult to break the crankshaft loose but with a long breaker bar you should be able to free it up. However if the rod/main bearings are heavily seized up, it may be nearly impossible to free up the crank.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright,

are there any other ways to free the rear brakes? the handbrake was on all these years and the brakes are stuck even if i bring down the handbrake... should i smack it with a hammer?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Yes, you can smack it with a large hammer but don't overdo it.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

thanks. i need to free the brakes first so i could push the car to my garage, it was parked under a tree for years


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

just an update for this thread,
ive been having troubles accessing this site (a "dns server cannot be found" thingy) and ive been meaning to ask this since a few weeks ago:

btw, i got the car running already. 
the clutch pedal does not go up anymore if you push it, maybe the whole clutch has "rust welded" itself to the flywheel?

any ideas on how to free the clutch?

and btw again, does anybody know if the GA16DNE engine has an o2 sensor? i cant seem to find one on mine...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

For the clutch pedal is not coming up, there's probably no hydraulic fluid in the system. Fill it and bleed both the master cylinder and slave cylinder. 

Your engine does have an O2 sensor that screws into the exhaust maniflod.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> For the clutch pedal is not coming up, there's probably no hydraulic fluid in the system. Fill it and bleed both the master cylinder and slave cylinder.
> 
> Your engine does have an O2 sensor that screws into the exhaust maniflod.


i just checked the clutch, it isnt a hydraulic clutch... its a mechanical (or cable) type clutch.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Your engine does have an O2 sensor that screws into the exhaust maniflod.


i checked everywhere and it doesnt have one... and it doesnt even have a catalytic converter. weird... its my first time seeing a fuel injected car without a cat...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

i was looking at this post: http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/146790-ga16dne-o2-sensor.html

i have the same engine as that guy, but i dont have an o2 sensor like in the picture...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It looks like your car is spec'd to Mexican standards that doesn't comply to any U.S. emission standards.

I've seen some clutches get stuck in a disengaged position. This seems to happen with some aftermarket diaphram types where the pressure plate fingers are pushed in beyond the normal disengage position and get stuck there. I've had that happen to one my Chevy cars years ago; the solution was to replace the clutch assembly with an OEM unit.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

also, could i drill out the brake shoe retaining pin in an attemp to free up the rear brakes? 

the only rear brake stuck actually is the rear left brake, i was able to free up the right side. 

i dont think the brake shoe is rusted to the drum anymore because i could move the wheel about half a turn then theres this clank i hear and a springy sound, then it just stops...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

carguy101 said:


> also, could i drill out the brake shoe retaining pin in an attemp to free up the rear brakes?
> 
> the only rear brake stuck actually is the rear left brake, i was able to free up the right side.
> 
> i dont think the brake shoe is rusted to the drum anymore because i could move the wheel about half a turn then theres this clank i hear and a springy sound, then it just stops...


oh, nevermind this post of mine about the brakes. i was able to free it with heat, a hammer, and rocking the wheel back and forth!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> oh, nevermind this post of mine about the brakes. i was able to free it with heat, a hammer, and rocking the wheel back and forth!


For those reasons I hate working on drum brakes. I had a situation where the adjuster was all rusted up and wouldn't work. Had a hell of a time trying to remove the drum; finally had to torch the drum to get access to the adjusting mechanism.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

another update about the brakes: i removed the front calipers a few days ago, and all the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir has drained out...

and today, i just reinstalled the calipers and im trying to bleed the brakes, but no fluid is coming out. 

i thought the bleeder valve was clogged so i removed and cleaned it but still nothing... 

and yes, i already filled the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

carguy101 said:


> another update about the brakes: i removed the front calipers a few days ago, and all the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir has drained out...
> 
> and today, i just reinstalled the calipers and im trying to bleed the brakes, but no fluid is coming out.
> 
> ...


once again, please nevermind this post of mine, i was able to bleed the brakes by continuously pumping the brakes while the engine is on

now my only problem is the clutch pedal...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

after searching through this site i found this picture: http://www.nissanforums.com/attachm...98-200sx-se-20140909_181152_1410316877967.jpg

thats called the clutch lever right? well while i was trying to loosen up the clutch by pushing it repeatedly, i heard something snap then the lever suddenly became very loose and i could pull it out a bit... did i break it?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

That clutch lever has a rod straight down into the housing. The throw out bearing mounts on that rod. The rod also has a strong spring that causes it to flex back into position, after the cable has pulled it backwards (toward the firewall).

If you are saying the lever can be pulled backwards but will not spring back, then the spring has broken or come off.

The lever does have some natural upward lift, but not much.

If the spring is off or broken, the housing would have to be removed (tranny dropped) to access the lever/bearing/spring/roll pin.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> That clutch lever has a rod straight down into the housing. The throw out bearing mounts on that rod. The rod also has a strong spring that causes it to flex back into position, after the cable has pulled it backwards (toward the firewall).
> 
> If you are saying the lever can be pulled backwards but will not spring back, then the spring has broken or come off.
> 
> ...


im too lazy to drop the transmission... how long do you think it would take for a mechanic to do the job?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<how long do you think it would take for a mechanic to do the job?>

Doable in a day, for sure.

But, they will need to source the spring and/or lever and/or bearing.

Likely OEM available only.

There also is a dust seal at the top of the lever, which, depending upon what is replaced inside the housing, also might need sourcing and replacing.

Can you tell if the spring is still attached to the lever inside the housing?

Any flexing back?

Or do you think the throw-out bearing came off the lever?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> <how long do you think it would take for a mechanic to do the job?>
> 
> Doable in a day, for sure.
> 
> ...


i dont think the spring is still attached to the lever... when i heard a snap, the lever became loose, there was a springy feel before i heard the snap... and now i could pull out the lever a bit.

you think maybe it just got loose and isnt broken?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Hard to say. It could have fatigued due to thousands of flexes (and is still sitting there) or broke due to usage or rust (and is dangling, useless). But, there also could be another failure.

Hang with me for a second:
The spring sits on the top of the bearing C-shaped holder/lever on (around) the rod lever itself (as the rod goes down through the holder/lever) and is flexed against the holder/lever. The bottom spring end has a 90' angle that rests on the holder/lever, while the top end of the spring is straight and rides against the lever rod. The spring (sits horizontally and) pivots as the lever rod is rotated, and is supposed to flex back into position (when the rod is released, via the cable, via the pedal). The holder/lever also has 2 small straight pins (about 1/16" each) at each end of the "C" (one at top pointing up and one at bottom pointing down) that the bearing retainers mount/sit on (the retainers are small squarish metal tangs that hold the throw-out bearing onto the C-shaped holder/lever). And the holder/lever mounts to the lever rod via 2 small horizontally-installed roll pins.

Any of those parts could have failed or fatigued: spring, its bottom 90' angle end, its straight end, the retainer pins, the retainers, even the roll pins (inside the lever rod). I doubt the holder/lever itself would have failed as it is hardened metal, but its ends are the thinnest points, so suppose that is possible also. If you can tell "from feel" if the bearing is still attached to the rod (via the holder/lever), that would be helpful to know. What do you think - bearing still on or dangling loose? 

Also, doubt that both retainer pins or both retainer tangs or both roll pins would have failed; so, because of that, it is doubtful the lever rod could be pulled straight up. Assuming the rod does not come straight up, that would suggest the holder/lever is still on (at least partially). 

But, it is possible ONE of the retainer pins or retainers or roll pins broke, which would have the holder/lever dangling or the bearing dangling, negating the flex-ability of the spring.

Unfortunately, the only way to know what gave/failed/fatigued, is to drop the tranny and bell housing and look inside the bell housing toward the lever rod. Probably don't want to jostle things when doing so, as the failed part(s) may fall out otherwise. Best to see the failed part in its failed state. That way, it will be clear how to put the new one(s) back on correctly.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Hard to say. It could have fatigued due to thousands of flexes (and is still sitting there) or broke due to usage or rust (and is dangling, useless). But, there also could be another failure.
> 
> Hang with me for a second:
> The spring sits on the top of the bearing C-shaped holder/lever on (around) the rod lever itself (as the rod goes down through the holder/lever) and is flexed against the holder/lever. The bottom spring end has a 90' angle that rests on the holder/lever, while the top end of the spring is straight and rides against the lever rod. The spring (sits horizontally and) pivots as the lever rod is rotated, and is supposed to flex back into position (when the rod is released, via the cable, via the pedal). The holder/lever also has 2 small straight pins (about 1/16" each) at each end of the "C" (one at top pointing up and one at bottom pointing down) that the bearing retainers mount/sit on (the retainers are small squarish metal tangs that hold the throw-out bearing onto the C-shaped holder/lever). And the holder/lever mounts to the lever rod via 2 small horizontally-installed roll pins.
> ...


it took me a few minutes to fully understand your post heheheh...

i tried pushing the clutch lever (where the cable attatches to) with a pry bar while the engine is running and i hear a squeaking noise (possibly that the bearing is also shot) but it doesnt return anymore...

i couldnt pull the lever straight up (to the point that it comes off) but i could pull it out a bit until it stops.

maybe the retainers broke off and the spring snapped or something... 

in a situation where the clutch isnt stuck to the flywheel and everything else works normally, but suddenly the retainers would break off and the return spring snaps would you still be able to operate the clutch by manually pushing and pulling the lever? just curious, because if you could, maybe i could find a way to free the clutch and manually push and pull the clutch lever so i could drive it to a shop instead of having to tow it to one (i dont think i could do it myself, i might not be able to put it back together lol)


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<in a situation where the clutch isnt stuck to the flywheel and everything else works normally, but suddenly the retainers would break off and the return spring snaps would you still be able to operate the clutch by manually pushing and pulling the lever? just curious, because if you could, maybe i could find a way to free the clutch and manually push and pull the clutch lever so i could drive it to a shop instead of having to tow it to one >

No and yes. If the retainers break off, the bearing will slide off the C-lever and not be controllable (dangle). But, if just the spring breaks, then yes, the bearing would still be on the C-lever and could be slid toward the pressure plate and slid back away from it.

Normally, what mechanics do to drive a car a short distance when a clutch is out, is rev match-shift, quickly. Gears will grind a bit, depending upon how close one gets to the gear shift point.

<tried pushing the clutch lever ... while the engine is running and i hear a squeaking noise >

Takes much pressure to slide the throw-out bearing - and hold it - against the pressure plate. Clutches can apply ~400 lb/in^2 to the flywheel. You likely only slid the bearing partially to the pressure plate, and then it squealed as it and the plate fingers spun, unsync'd. They are intended to jam together rapidly.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> <in a situation where the clutch isnt stuck to the flywheel and everything else works normally, but suddenly the retainers would break off and the return spring snaps would you still be able to operate the clutch by manually pushing and pulling the lever? just curious, because if you could, maybe i could find a way to free the clutch and manually push and pull the clutch lever so i could drive it to a shop instead of having to tow it to one >
> 
> No and yes. If the retainers break off, the bearing will slide off the C-lever and not be controllable (dangle). But, if just the spring breaks, then yes, the bearing would still be on the C-lever and could be slid toward the pressure plate and slid back away from it.
> 
> ...


i know how to shift gears without using the clutch, but my only problem would be putting it in first gear... 

well i tried to start the car in first and i was able to do so, but with the traffic situation where i live i doubt ill make it to the shop...

anyway, thanks for your help. maybe sometime this october i could get a mechanic who would do home service, or better yet do it myself...

just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...

and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? i couldnt remove the wheels because my lug nuts are one of those "tuner nuts" and theyre stuck tight... i couldnt get it off at all! the nut itself and the tool would just round out!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...

and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? >

Yes [the trans/engine support bracket(s) will be unbolted/disconnected/removed (separate and in addition to the tranny mount)] and yes, both driveshafts/axle sides.

Let us know how things turn out.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> <just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...
> 
> and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? >
> 
> ...


alright, thanks. ill update you by october


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, i got a bit impatient and decided to try to do it today.

the axle nut wont come off! i tried so hard and i broke my breaker bar trying to remove it

its righty tighty, lefty loosey right?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

carguy101 said:


> alright, i got a bit impatient and decided to try to do it today.
> 
> the axle nut wont come off! i tried so hard and i broke my breaker bar trying to remove it
> 
> its righty tighty, lefty loosey right?



once again, nevermind this post of mine. i used the exhaust system (which im going to replace anyway) for leverage heheheh


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> <just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...
> 
> and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? >
> 
> ...


another question, would it be possible to remove the transmission without removing the driveshaft? a guy at the parts store told me that you dont have to and im just overcomplicating the job...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<parts store told me that you dont have to and im just overcomplicating the job.>

Did he mean just remove them from the wheel hubs (on those 2 ends) but leave them inserted into the differential (on the inner ends)?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> <parts store told me that you dont have to and im just overcomplicating the job.>
> 
> Did he mean just remove them from the wheel hubs (on those 2 ends) but leave them inserted into the differential (on the inner ends)?


he just told me that i dont have to remove it at all... is this true? what would happen if i try to remove the transmission or just move it to the point that i could reach the clutch without removing the driveshaft?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

update: i removed the driveshaft, it was a pain removing it without removing the wheels! i had to take the strut off, pull the driveshaft out, then put the strut back on...

ive already removed the clutch cable, and the starter...

btw, could i not drain the transmission oil anymore? the drain plug is stuck on so tight


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

just a quick update/question:

i have removed the transmission already, and i already removed the clutch, i want to remove the flywheel but i cant because the engine turns with the bolt... how do i stop the engine from turning so i could loosen the bolts?

and also, (im going to use the terms from the fsm, in the front axle part FA-15) the boot in the transaxle side broke, and the "spider assembly" just seperated from the "slide joint housing" but the "spider assembly" is attached to the driveshaft. does that really happen?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> just a quick update/question:
> 
> i have removed the transmission already, and i already removed the clutch, i want to remove the flywheel but i cant because the engine turns with the bolt... how do i stop the engine from turning so i could loosen the bolts?
> 
> and also, (im going to use the terms from the fsm, in the front axle part FA-15) the boot in the transaxle side broke, and the "spider assembly" just seperated from the "slide joint housing" but the "spider assembly" is attached to the driveshaft. does that really happen?


If you pull hard enough on the spider assembly, it will separate. The spider assembly will have to be removed if you're going to replace the boot; follow the procedure in the FSM; always use new snap rings when assembling.

To prevent the engine from turning when loosening the flywheel bolts, you can buy a locking tool or better yet, try this:


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> If you pull hard enough on the spider assembly, it will separate. The spider assembly will have to be removed if you're going to replace the boot; follow the procedure in the FSM; always use new snap rings when assembling.
> 
> To prevent the engine from turning when loosening the flywheel bolts, you can buy a locking tool or better yet, try this:


alright, i tried what you did in the pic. it worked perfectly! thanks


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

now yet another update, the flywheel has some clutch material thats rusted on. do i need to have the flywheel resurfaced? could i just sand it down myself?

btw, i think my clutch was still the original that came with the car when it was new and its already at above 200,000 kilometers...

the clutch isnt worn down to the rivets yet but im still going to replace...

i saw a brand called "paraut unisia" and the people at the shop claimed that this "unisia" brand manufactures nissans OE clutches. is that true? is this "paraut unisia" brand any good?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If the flywheel has any gouges, cracks or waviness on the surface, then it should be resurfaced, otherwise just sand off the rust. 

Paraut Unisia is one of many OEM manufacturers for Nissan clutches. Other OEM manufacturers are Exedy and Valeo. Take your pick; just stay away from some cheap non-OEM aftermarket type.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> If the flywheel has any gouges, cracks or waviness on the surface, then it should be resurfaced, otherwise just sand off the rust.
> 
> Paraut Unisia is one of many OEM manufacturers for Nissan clutches. Other OEM manufacturers are Exedy and Valeo. Take your pick; just stay away from some cheap non-OEM aftermarket type.


should i try to make the surface as smooth as possible? like sanding down car paint?

then Paraut Unisia it is, since its the cheapest brand they have at the shop...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Sand the surface as smooth as you can to get rid of the rust spots and any glaze; it doesn't have to look like a mirror. Now if you have access to a dial indicator, you can measure the run-out which should be no more then 0.15 mm (0.0059 in).


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Sand the surface as smooth as you can to get rid of the rust spots and any glaze; it doesn't have to look like a mirror. Now if you have access to a dial indicator, you can measure the run-out which should be no more then 0.15 mm (0.0059 in).



alright, i sanded the flywheel and got rid of most of the rough spots.

now i have one last question about the flywheel, does the flywheel have to be installed in a certain position? would it affect the balance or something if i do not install the flywheel in the same position as i removed it?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

According to the FSM, it does not show any particular position to install the flywheel, so any position will be OK.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> According to the FSM, it does not show any particular position to install the flywheel, so any position will be OK.


alright thanks.

im also planning to remove the oil pan, if i remove the "center member" will the engine fall down? since it doesnt have the transmission installed


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If you look to see where the motor mounts are attached, you'll see that they sit on the center member, so removing the center member will cause the engine to fall down. You'll have to use a chain hoist to hold the engine up before removing the center member.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> If you look to see where the motor mounts are attached, you'll see that they sit on the center member, so removing the center member will cause the engine to fall down. You'll have to use a chain hoist to hold the engine up before removing the center member.



alright, ill just wait for the release bearing retainer that i ordered so i could install the transmission, then ill remove the oil pan...

another question, my power windows suddenly stopped working, also the temp and fuel gauge. the fsm told me to look at body grounds m43 m44 and m60. but i cant seem to find them, would you, or anyone have a picture of those particular body grounds?

thanks. sorry i have a lot of questions, i really just want to fix the car so i could finally drive it.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Even with the tranny in place, you'll still have to support the engine another way if you plan to remove the center member.

Body grounds: M43 is located under the dash on the driver's side, M44 is located near the center console on the passenger's side, M60 is located on the far right side on the passenger's side.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Just getting back on the forum after several days (was tied up for 3 days, then computer died and had to get and install/configure new one).

Looks like excellent progress! 
And excellent info from Rogo!

So, what did you find in the clutch housing that caused the lever to cease flexing?

Have pics of failed item(s)? Or part #s and manufacturer?

When I've done our center members, just placed support under the tranny, which you can do once the clutch and tranny are re-installed.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Even with the tranny in place, you'll still have to support the engine another way if you plan to remove the center member.
> 
> Body grounds: M43 is located under the dash on the driver's side, M44 is located near the center console on the passenger's side, M60 is located on the far right side on the passenger's side.


im going to put a jack under the transmission so i could remove the center member...

im still having difficulty finding the m43 but i found m44 and m60, thanks.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Just getting back on the forum after several days (was tied up for 3 days, then computer died and had to get and install/configure new one).
> 
> Looks like excellent progress!
> And excellent info from Rogo!
> ...


sorry, i dont have pictures but ill try to explain what happened

the whole release bearing was stuck, i had trouble removing it. then the return spring was off, it wasnt broken but maybe it just slipped. also the retainers were shot, its not rusted but it got so deformed i didnt even recognize it... (release bearing retainers are soo expensive, considering its size.)

the clutch has "rust welded" itself to the flywheel, and the pressure plate was rusted as hell. 

all the parts of the clutch were still the original nissan ones, its never been changed in its more than 200,000 kilometers of running. the clutch wasnt worn down to the rivets yet. maybe if it wasnt for the rust it would have lasted much longer...

and, when i removed the transmission drain plug nothing was coming out. i thought it had no more oil, but some thick (i mean THICK) substance started coming out slowly after 30 or so minutes... chocolate fondue anybody?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Im good at dismantling stuff, but you couldnt trust me when its time to assemble/reinstall...

How do you reinstall the transmission? it wont go in no matter how much i push it...

i didnt use a clutch alignment tool cause i dont have one, but i tried to adjust it by eye. maybe the reason why it wont go in is because of the alignment.

ill try a method that i read online. i wont tighten the pressure plate bolts, attach the transmission, then tighten pressure plate from the starter hole...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Did you scribe alignment marks before removal?

Do you have a bolt you can (cut the head off of) and use as a stud alignment to get the bell housing/tranny to mount into position?

Leary of not tightening the pressure plate bolts. You'll have to let us know if your method works (keeping loose and tightening through starter access area). 

How did the rear engine oil seal look when you had off the flywheel?

So, given the snap sound you heard when moving the clutch, what do you think that was (now)?

You're making good progress.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alignment marks? you mean on the flywheel? no i didnt

unfortunately i dont have any bolts that i can cut off...

ill try that method tomorrow (its night time here already) 

forgot to mention that i already replaced the oil seal! it was the easiest part of the job...

im sure that the snap sound was due the release bearing retainer, and the return spring breaking/coming off

thanks, never thought i'd come this far!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

i was able to install the transmission! 

so i was able to remove the oil pan, and i found something really nasty inside. 

i dont know if you would believe me (i dont have pics ny camera not working) but theres a rat in the oil pan, good grief i hate rats, i dont know how ill clean the oil pan... maybe ill just get another one from the junk shop...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

another question, i couldnt get the temp gauge working...

i checked the resistance of the temp sensor and it seems in spec (with the fsm as reference)

i tried removing the connector while the engine was running and the fans turned on, also the check engine light, both turned off when i reinstalled FWIW.

operation of the temp sensor seems normal and theres no problem with the wirings, the only problems the gauge... a broken gauge wont affect engine fan operation in anyway right?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Is the fuel gauge accurately reading - or none at all? Nissan used to have a voltage reg in the IC that controlled both the coolant and fuel gauges. When it failed, both gauges would not work. Not sure if yours has the Vreg or not. Will look up, pending your fuel gauge answer.

Since the fans came on with the CTS disconnected, that is good. That is what they should do, and that means the ECU is working.

The dash coolant gauge is separate wiring.

Get the oil pan cleaned out? Clean the oil pickup strainer? Don't disconnect the strainer unless you have a new gasket for it. The rat must've gotten into the valve cover oil filler hole, right?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Is the fuel gauge accurately reading - or none at all? Nissan used to have a voltage reg in the IC that controlled both the coolant and fuel gauges. When it failed, both gauges would not work. Not sure if yours has the Vreg or not. Will look up, pending your fuel gauge answer.
> 
> Since the fans came on with the CTS disconnected, that is good. That is what they should do, and that means the ECU is working.
> 
> ...


i tried moving the float up but the fuel gauge only moved a bit, so no its not accurate...

i just wiped the strainer with a rag. most probably through the oil filler hole...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Okay, then, yes, probably the Vreg in the IC. Small metal square device with 3 wires, held on with small phillips screws. Should say Niles or Kantouseiki.

How'd the center member rear motor mount job go? Forgot to say to keep a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan - (along with a jack/wood under the tranny).


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Okay, then, yes, probably the Vreg in the IC. Small metal square device with 3 wires, held on with small phillips screws. Should say Niles or Kantouseiki.
> 
> How'd the center member rear motor mount job go? Forgot to say to keep a jack with a block of wood under the oil pan - (along with a jack/wood under the tranny).


where exactly is it located?

i didnt change it, i just screwed it back on when i reinstalled the transmission.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

this morning, i started the car to let it warm up a bit.

i let it run for about 20 mins, but the fan wouldnt turn on. the temp gauge wasnt working so i had no means of knowing its temperature, so i checked everything, no wires loose...

then i checked the temp sensors resistance, it was 35kohms. i reconnected its wires but i accidentally snapped the connector (on the temp sensor) and now the check engine light is on and the fans are on all the time. (its broken anyway!)

also, the front left brake wont bleed. any ideas?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Rust from behind or sides of piston or from piston??? Did you try pushing in the piston?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Rust from behind or sides of piston or from piston??? Did you try pushing in the piston?


i found the problem with the brakes, the brake line is clogged. i cant seem to unclog it with metal wire, maybe ill just buy a new one...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Air-compress it out work?

You'll have to post some pics of the car and progress when time allows.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Air-compress it out work?
> 
> You'll have to post some pics of the car and progress when time allows.


doesnt want to unclog no matter what i try. 

ill try to post a pic in awhile...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It's best to replace the bad line; they're cheap enough. There's a good chance the rest of the system has a lot of rust; that's including the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Flush out as much as you can.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

EDIT:


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> It's best to replace the bad line; they're cheap enough. There's a good chance the rest of the system has a lot of rust; that's including the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Flush out as much as you can.




alright, ill replace all of them. the brake lines arent as expensive as i thought.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

i dunno why the bumper is white...

are the photos even showing? sorry, im trying to use this forum with "tapatalk" and im quite new with it.










i couldnt find the stock airbox, so i just installed a random air filter, for now. 

the engine is a GA16DNE. it is a detuned version of the DE. its still multiport fuel injection, has an updraft intake (which is larger than the GA16DE's) and i think (according to my research) it is similar to the UK spec GA16DE, although it has no O2 sensor, no catalytic converter, does not have the ECCS plenum, and does not have that valve timing solenoid thingy.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

i broke this in the process of removing the brake hose btw: 









its the hard brake line on the drivers side, it got straightened up when i was trying to remove it, so im looking for a pic of a good one so i could fabricate another one.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

these are the pics of the old clutch, i dont have any pics of the new one cause its already installed. 

the clutch isnt worn down to the rivets yet, and maybe i could reuse the pressure plate someday...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

this is a close up of the rear wheel:









as you can see, the nut is a "tuner nut". i really cant remove it with the tool, it just keeps rounding out. so im planning to plasma cut it in my friends shop.

but the rear brake seizes up from time to time, is it possible to remove the drum without removing the wheel?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Thanks for all the pics! Glad to see you bringing her back! Satisfying days ahead. 

If you can get the drum/spindle lock nut cap removed (angling in on it) (those can be replaced), then, should be able to remove the (drum) spindle lock nut and washer, and depending upon, how frozen on the drum/shoes are, could pull entire drum/wheel assy off together. Or a small sawzall blade to rip free the tuner nut (or chisel to split it), then remove wheel to get to cap and drum. (Another less desirable option would be to remove the backing plate from behind.)


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Thanks for all the pics! Glad to see you bringing her back! Satisfying days ahead.
> 
> If you can get the drum/spindle lock nut cap removed (angling in on it) (those can be replaced), then, should be able to remove the (drum) spindle lock nut and washer, and depending upon, how frozen on the drum/shoes are, could pull entire drum/wheel assy off together. Or a small sawzall blade to rip free the tuner nut (or chisel to split it), then remove wheel to get to cap and drum. (Another less desirable option would be to remove the backing plate from behind.)



well, i prefer to call the car a he because it looks more masculine than his competitors of the same generation...

the brake isnt completely seized, well not anymore. it just seizes up from time to time, but ill try to use a chisel to split the tuner nut.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

anyone have a pic or a drawing of how the hard brake line in the driver side is shaped? i cant seem to find one online...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Okay, then, yes, probably the Vreg in the IC. Small metal square device with 3 wires, held on with small phillips screws. Should say Niles or Kantouseiki.




is it located inside the instrument cluster? i found this:









more information on my instrument cluster for what its worth:
the instrument cluster in the car isnt the original one, it was replaced more than 9 years ago because the tachometer went bad...

it was replaced with a unit without a tach, from a newer model (i think from the base model sentra here)









EDIT: my instrument cluster also has 4 connectors, as opposed to the 3 connectors on the fsm...

i think im reading the wrong fsm, maybe the sentras here are closer to the Euro spec sentras than the US spec?
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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Well, on our US Sentras, when there is an IC Vreg, it is not inside the IC; it is mounted onto the IC on the rear pass's side. I had looked up your year and model and found the part, but didn't realize then that the car was non-US.

Can you post a pic of the entire IC rear.

You're replacing the CTS right?

You're in the Philippines, is that correct?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Well, on our US Sentras, when there is an IC Vreg, it is not inside the IC; it is mounted onto the IC on the rear pass's side. I had looked up your year and model and found the part, but didn't realize then that the car was non-US.
> 
> Can you post a pic of the entire IC rear.
> 
> ...




the rear of the cluster? here:









sorry if the pic isnt too clear, its night time here...

yes im replacing it, just waiting for it to be delivered.

and yes, im in the Philippines.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

any idea what this is:









the green box is connected to a bunch of wires, i dunno where exactly they go but its connected with the small black semi circular thing on the right and the black rectangular box on the left...

any idea if its a stock component or an added aftermarket one? im trying to clean up the wiring while im waiting for my TPS to come...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Thanks for the pics. Dang, IC Vreg not there; Nissan system diagrams showed it on the US version of your car. Only thing recognizable in the other pic is the blue relay in the upper right. Poor guesses would be related to clock-spring (air bag) or anti-theft or gyro data logger ... have no idea. Any part #s on them we could look up?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Thanks for the pics. Dang, IC Vreg not there; Nissan system diagrams showed it on the US version of your car. Only thing recognizable in the other pic is the blue relay in the upper right. Poor guesses would be related to clock-spring (air bag) or anti-theft or gyro data logger ... have no idea. Any part #s on them we could look up?




ill try putting an aftermarket gauge once my CTS comes and see if that would work properly. if it works ill replace the instrument cluster with the stock one (with tach), but if it doesnt... i dunno

i traced the wires of the green box, and they lead to the power locks... ill just remove it since it aint working anyway.
looks like its aftermaket...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

new problem, so i got most of the wiring sorted out and today, after a few days of not starting, it wont start anymore!

on the first attempt, started right away... but also died right away.
on the second attempt, its trying to start up, sorry i cant explain but it sounds like this: *chug chug chug chug* *vrrr vrr vroom* *grug gru grug* *dead*
then: *chug chug chug chug* (only the sound of the starter with no signs of life)

it seems like its flooded, but why? could it be related to what i did on the wirings?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If the car was running OK prior to the fooling around with the wiring, then yes, it might be related. Reconnect the wiring and see if it fixes the start-up. If not, then it's back to the general trouble-shooting - fuel or ignition failure. 

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it starts up. If it does, then you've got a fuel delivery failure.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> If the car was running OK prior to the fooling around with the wiring, then yes, it might be related. Reconnect the wiring and see if it fixes the start-up. If not, then it's back to the general trouble-shooting - fuel or ignition failure.
> 
> Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it starts up. If it does, then you've got a fuel delivery failure.



I got it running!! heres the story:

I was wondering why the removal of the auto lock system would affect startup, but still i reconnected them just to be safe. but still no luck there

i tried everything, i bought starter fluid and sprayed to no avail, i poured gas, but then i thought to myself hey, its flooded! why am i pouring all sorts of stuff? so i used a hair dryer to dry the cylinders and intake manifold out, and even baked the plugs in the oven!

ALL TO NO AVAIL...

so i thought maybe theres no compression? i dont have a compression tester, but i just poured a little oil in the cylinders... then i tried to start, i hoped it would start cause my battery is dying. it ran! albeit rather roughly... 

then i cleaned the spark plugs out, and reinstalled. 

im wondering, why didnt i have compression in the first place? 




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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Is the CTS still broken, during the hard-to-start attempts?
Have the distributor cap brushes been checked and cleaned? New cap needed?
What is battery V when running roughly? Alt V [its (+) post and its case (ground)] when running roughly?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

It looks like you're lacking some diagnostic tools for auto work. Without knowing the actual compression of every cylinder, it's useless to say there is no compression. Generally when the compression is very very low, it becomes very hard to start the engine, if not able to start it at all. What you've most likely done with adding a little oil in each cyl is brought the compression up just enough so that it's able to at least start. By all means do a compression test; you probably find the compression spec to be way below the minimum standard. If this is so, new rings are in order.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Is the CTS still broken, during the hard-to-start attempts?
> Have the distributor cap brushes been checked and cleaned? New cap needed?
> What is battery V when running roughly? Alt V [its (+) post and its case (ground)] when running roughly?



I installed a surplus one temporarily as the one i ordered hasnt come yet...

Ill check the distributor cap, and I might also replace the spark plug wire...

Voltage when running is 14.3 volts, and BTW the battery light stayed on for a few mins after the car started. But i think a car really does that with a drained battery... or does it?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> It looks like you're lacking some diagnostic tools for auto work. Without knowing the actual compression of every cylinder, it's useless to say there is no compression. Generally when the compression is very very low, it becomes very hard to start the engine, if not able to start it at all. What you've most likely done with adding a little oil in each cyl is brought the compression up just enough so that it's able to at least start. By all means do a compression test; you probably find the compression spec to be way below the minimum standard. If this is so, new rings are in order.




I never really bothered buying a compression tester but ill look into it...
but for now, ill just take it to my friend who has one.

and it started quickly too after squirting oil in the cylinders...

if i only find the compression of 1 or 2 cylinders lacking, do i have to replace all the piston rings? or could i just replace the broken ones?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If you plan to replace piston rings, the entire engine will practically be disassembled so it make sense to do all the cylinders. Be sure to hone all the cylinders to eliminate any high/low spots, out of round conditions, taper and glazing. Just go easy on the honing. You want to end up with a light cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. If you don't have an FSM, I would strongly recommend getting one.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> If you plan to replace piston rings, the entire engine will practically be disassembled so it make sense to do all the cylinders. Be sure to hone all the cylinders to eliminate any high/low spots, out of round conditions, taper and glazing. Just go easy on the honing. You want to end up with a light cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. If you don't have an FSM, I would strongly recommend getting one.




alright, ill see if i could either bring the car to my friend or borrow his compression tester...

also btw, what if i need to have the cylinder rebored, what should i install, an oversize piston ring or an oversize piston? whats the difference/whats better?

and yes i have the FSM.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

yet another update.

i was cleaning up the garage and i found this:









How stupid of me to forget to install those! but i cant seem to find where exactly they bolt on to...

I know that those metal things connect the tranny to the engine, but i cant seem to find info on the FSM.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> also btw, what if i need to have the cylinder rebored, what should i install, an oversize piston ring or an oversize piston? whats the difference/whats better?


The standard bore size on a GA16DE is: 76.000 to 76.030 mm, so if the bore is over the max, you'll need an oversized piston as well as the oversized rings to fit it. You don't want to install oversized rings into a standard bore size. In fitting the proper sized piston, the piston-to-wall clearance needs to be in the range of: 0.015 to 0.035 mm. There are three grade levels of standard pistons. If the piston-to-wall clearance is too small, the piston will have a tendency to seize up during running; however if the clearance is too large, you'll hear piston rattle and the rings will rapidly wear.

All the specs and measurement methods are spelled out in the FSM. Good midnight reading!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

US version shows their mounting orientations as follows:

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...-transaxle-fitting.html?Filter=(2=GA16DE;5=MT)


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> The standard bore size on a GA16DE is: 76.000 to 76.030 mm, so if the bore is over the max, you'll need an oversized piston as well as the oversized rings to fit it. You don't want to install oversized rings into a standard bore size. In fitting the proper sized piston, the piston-to-wall clearance needs to be in the range of: 0.015 to 0.035 mm. There are three grade levels of standard pistons. If the piston-to-wall clearance is too small, the piston will have a tendency to seize up during running; however if the clearance is too large, you'll hear piston rattle and the rings will rapidly wear.
> 
> 
> 
> All the specs and measurement methods are spelled out in the FSM. Good midnight reading!




Thanks for the info! lots of mechanics here would just put oversized rings when reboring the cylinders... well, if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> US version shows their mounting orientations as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...-transaxle-fitting.html?Filter=(2=GA16DE;5=MT)




the page in your link doesnt exist...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> yet another update.
> 
> i was cleaning up the garage and i found this:
> 
> ...


Is this what you're asking about:

30431-3M201 - Nissan Parts Deal


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Is this what you're asking about:
> 
> 
> 
> 30431-3M201 - Nissan Parts Deal




yes, but i cant find where exactly they go into... is it okay if i dont install it for now? 


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

By looking at the parts diagram, they bolt on from the tranny to the engine block. Should be easy enough to find the locations by jacking the car up. The gussets are there for a reason; extra needed support; if I was you, I wouldn't run the car on the road without them.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Yes, that was the same pic (but different part of that web site) I was trying to provide (but it was on the actual parts diagram). Had even tested the link after copying. Oh well.

Thanks Rogo.

Concur with Rogo on not driving without the 2 braces. 

On ours here, the brace bolts, onto the bell housing-side, go the opposite direction of the bolts from the tranny/bell housing back onto the block. On the block side, they face inward to the block (face away from the radiator on that one and face away from the firewall on the other brace).


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, i really cant find where its supposed to be installed. maybe im just going to ask help from someone who has better eyesight than me...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

just to revive this thread, after a brief hiatus... (i sorta ran out of money) 

the rear brakes are GONE

















should i replace just the brake shoes or also the springs and other components? or do they come as a kit with the brake shoes?

and, as for the wheel cylinder.. seems to be leaking, should i replace or repair? still seems to be the original Nissan ones, dont wanna replace it with  lower quality "made in China/Taiwan" would i? 










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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Dang. 

Nissan sells shoes separately from springs/hold-downs/pins.

Nissan has cylinder seal kits - with all 4 seals (2 outers/2 inners), per side. Pistons (per side) are separate.

If rebuilding, probably need to hone the inside (to remove interior rust and so pistons move freely/not bind)and do pistons.

Was wondering how things were progressing.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Dang.
> 
> Nissan sells shoes separately from springs/hold-downs/pins.
> 
> ...




I checked Nissans parts website here and they dont seem to have any in stock, might have to buy from third party or aftermarket parts instead... (unless i want to wait for Nissan to have it)

to hone, you would need the special drill bit right? I think i have one of those ill see if i could find it...

as for the progress, might be a lot slower now as i had to spend for my other cars repair...

as for the sentra though heres the to do list: 4 window regulators, new power lock system, rear brakes, air conditioner repairs (blower, compressor, condenser, etc.), possibly a top end overhaul, radiator (i just patched it up for now), possibly the suspension components, stock wheels (and tires), need to sort out electricals, stock air filter, etc. 

I hope to finish everything by the end of the year...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

The hones are usually long slender rectangular grit-pads. They can go in drills for spinning (like when doing the front calipers when those pistons are removed), but for the rear wheel cylinders, being smaller channels, would just slide in and then around (in and out).

Projects sound good/fun. Lots of satisfaction ahead.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Yes, I think I have one of those, but I cant seem to find it. Ill just buy a new one if i cant find it...

Project cars really are fun, Its also very satisfying to accomplish the seemingly impossible. Theres also that great feeling of accomplishment that you were able to do it yourself and not let someone else do it for you!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

another update: rear brakes are done, the wheel cylinders were in pretty bad shape, so i just bought some from the junk yard and rebuilt that instead. no pics this time as my camera is not working

and just for future reference to anyone who will be reading this thread: going back to the problem where my coolant temp gauge and fuel gauge arent working (please just backtrack the thread for more info), my instrument cluster did not have an instrument clusted voltage regulator like the US Sentas. if anyone will be having the same problem before thinking that the whole cluster is broken try spraying the gas tank float with contact cleaner/carb cleaner, and see if it works. if it does you will be able to pinpoint that the CTS is the problem!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Nice update. Bet the drum areas look good again. Were you able to re-use the o-ring seals from the JY wheel cylinders, after you cleaned those? Now, on the fuel gauge, after spraying the variable resistor plate, that gauge began (moving and) correctly registering again? And, you previously replaced the broken CTS with a new one, right? Nice following all the progress.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

the o-rings of the other JY wheel cylinder was shot, thankfully the one in mine was still in good shape!
yes, the gauge registered correctly again. looks like mine does not have the Vreg... maybe if i replace my IC with the tachometer equipped it might have a Vreg.

yes, CTS was replaced. at first i thought the new CTS was defective as the check engine light was still on after install... but after awhile the check engine turned off and everything was back to normal.

BTW, reverse gear isnt engaging. i mean, like i couldnt find reverse gear all the time... shifter bushing you think? 


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

A master Nissan tech told me once there is a detent that affects reverse. He said Nissan instructed them to how to replace it. But, over time he found it more constructive to push the detent back down into position.

Have you tried shifting into 3rd, with car stopped, then wait 2-3 sec.s, then shift into 1st and if that is smooth, then shift into 2nd right away and if that is smooth, then go into reverse? All while stopped (car not rolling/moving). Nissan's early Sentra OM's actually used to say, when shifting into R, come to a stop and wait 3 seconds.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

weird, its actually smooth right now. and i could go to reverse gear without a problem... 
it happened a lot of times yesterday when i was trying to bring the car out of the garage... cant seem to replicate the prob anymore, might just be a "glitch"


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Good. Maybe the detent is "just beginning" to lose "threshold" tension.

If it happens again/further, recommend doing the 3rd (stopped), 1st, 2nd, then R, to not aggravate the detent bar further nor grind the gears, since there is no synchro.

Looking forward to the next set of restorative progress reports.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

yeah, i should have named this thread "sentra b14 restoration" instead...

i will update soon with suspension work...

but first, i found this:









i accidentally broke the wire while i was cleaning the engine bay, seems like another sensor. connected to the engine block at the back... coolant rushes out when i open the radiator cap, any ideas what it is?

EDIT: seems like another coolant temp sensor, but wait... there are two of them? any ideas on what theyre for?

EDIT 2: according to the fsm, its a thermal transmitter which connects to the coolant temp gauge, so does that mean that the coolant temp sensor that i replaced wasnt related to the CTG? but why did the gauge work when i replaced the CTS?? this is confusing...

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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Update: coolant temp gauge still works with that sensor/transmitter thingy disconnected... seems like a different component with an unknown purpose. I just repaired and reconnected the wire anyway...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

On some Nissans there were actually 3 coolant thermistors. 1-wires were usually coolant temp sender, CTSender, to dash gauge. 2-wires were usually for the ECU for the coolant temp sensor, CTS, itself, and for the radiator fan switch. Radiator fan switches have been phased out, as have most CTSenders. Your pic looks like the CTSender of old.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

So does that mean the CTSender basically isnt connected to anything in the car? starting to get confusing... anyway, i fixed and reconnected the wire just to be safe.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

What's the V at the newly-repaired thermistor wire (disconnected), key ON?

Engine version here in the states has the CTS adjacent to (but not part of) the thermostat housing, screwed downward vertically. Is it there on the pass's side? Is it 2-wire? And, is THIS the location where the original CTS broke? If not, where is the location of the original broken coolant thermistor?

And, is there or is there not a rad fan sw screwed into the end of the thermostat cover? I'm thinking no.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Theres about 8 volts on the wire

Yes its on the passenger side, 2 wire, and it was the location where the original CTS broke

there isnt any rad fan switch screwed in the thermostat cover...



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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Good. Nice.

So, if car is running till point where radiator fan comes on and the car is immediately turned off and the 1-wire (recently damaged) thermistor is immediately disconnected and the car is immediately turned back on, is the radiator fan still running? (Same as disconnecting the 1-wire with rad fan running, but playing it safe electrically.) I'm thinking yes.

And, does the dash water temp gauge still read the same with the 1-wire disconnected (before disconnecting=after disconnecting?)? I'm thinking no, it will go high.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Yes, the fan still runs

The gauge moved a bit, i think. ill have to double check that.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Okay, so that should resolve the mysteries. We know the 2-wire on the pass's top side is the CTS; we know the car does not have a rad fan sw and that the ECU uses the CTS signal to determine when to turn on the rad fan motor; and the 1-wire on the back of the block is the CTSender.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, thanks for your help on that!

Up next is suspension work, theres this loud clunk while driving, like somethings about to come off so im thinking of replacing the struts (shocks, whatever theyre called), ball joints, bushings, etc. but should i replace the springs? ill need a spring compressor for that but thats not a big issue... 


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Presuming if the clunk is coming from the front ... if the clunk is while turning, may be strut's upper mount bolt plate/bearing (or could be a CV joint) or the spring walking in the strut bottom seat (or loose tie rod end ball joint). With car on ground, grab tie rod end and determine if it is secure and immovable. With someone turning steering wheel, look up into strut tower top and see if that is the clunk, and look at the bottom of the spring on the strut's bottom plate and see if there is noise/walking there. Grab (each) axle near (each) joint and see if each has modest lateral movement (normal) and minimal vertical movement, or excessive. If when going straight and over road undulations/bumps, ball joint (or loose tie rod end ball joint). Yes, like the idea of replacing the entire strut assemblies: struts (KYBs are good), lower seat (rubber), coil spring, dust boot (while right there), upper bumper bound, upper seat (metal plate), upper mount bolt plate/bearing, and top center strut lock-nut. It is dangerous to compress and uncompress the springs, by hand. Ensure the compressor clamps are equidistance (180' opposite) each side, tape off the new springs to not mar or scratch their surfaces (from the clamps) (or they'll start rusting there), monitor the angular change of the springs at they compress/uncompress and don't get too far ahead on one side (not overly cocked), go back and forth a couple (impact gun) turns per side (clamp) at a time, and use an impact gun on the top center lock nut and only after tension on spring is fully released. I always have somebody nearby, just in case. I put the entire assys in a 60 lb vise. Facilitates in various ways. 

Ball joints should be doable without having to replace entire LCA, unless their bushings are shot.

Bushings on sway bars easy visual check and replace.

Think it's great all the work you're doing on the car.

Oh, and pushing down firmly on the corners above each strut, what does one get (at each one)?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

the clunk happens when i pass through bumpy roads... (even at very low speed).
tie rod ends are tight, but steering wheel seems to have a little play (happened to my hyundai too before and a steering coupler was replaced, you think the sentra has one too?) 
so ill check the ball joint. but the front drivers side strut seems out of whack:










sorry, i took the pic at night will take better pics tom. the strut seems off center maybe the strut mount? 


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Replace the entire strut assembly? i only usually replace the shock aborber (or strut whatever its called) on my other cars. but alright, ill just replace so everythings fresh.
I have an old pair of spring compressors (the one that you screw on with a ratchet) but my friend keeps discouraging me from using it and just use his hydraulic spring press thing at his shop...

the Nissan dealer doesnt sell the bushings alone? I dont want to replace the control arm if i only need the bushings... if i buy some aftermarket bushings would they be the same as stock? (im looking for a comfortable ride...) 

I will post more pics tomorrow...

pushing down? you mean pushing the car down like a bounce test? i tried making the car bounce but i cant seem to replicate the clunk with it, maybe im just not pushing hard enough...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Dang, sorry to see that strut tower. 

That tower needs to be replaced or structurally (cut out and) repaired. It's serious.

Welded too. They call it the hood ledge or apron. Several hundred $s for the (3-piece) part. 

And by looking at the top of the strut and bolt plate/bearing, guess is the entire strut assy is throwaway at this stage.

Yeah, Nissan has been moving away from individual parts; used to be able to buy those bushings. Not familiar with aftermarkets ones. But, I probably wouldn't invest much more until the hoodledge's strut tower is addressed. That's tough.

What Hyundai year and model had the steering coupler issue? What happened to the coupler?

Yes, the '96 has a (smaller) coupler. It's a 48080 prefix.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

so maybe i should postpone the suspension work first until i get the body repaired? 

btw, i already removed the 2 struts before when i changed the clutch, and no oil seems to be leaking out... so they still seem fine, but the issue is the rust isnt it?

2011 Hyundai Elantra, I think i mentioned in the PM... coupler just broke, causing excessive steering wheel play and loud noise when turning (which i mistook for a broken tie rod) 

alright, ill check the coupler of the sentra.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

I took some better pics of the strut tower/s










this is the front passenger side tower, still looks good, the dark spots are caked in dirt that could be removed by either scraping it off or sanding...










and here is a daytime pic of the drivers side, the rust you would see at the upper side seems to be just surface rust, the peeling is the thick body filler used when it was painted (which will never happen again in the future).


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

POWER STEERING FLUSH: 

almost forgot to post, my power steering was sticky (cant turn smoothly, and heavy) so i thought the whatever valves inside are sticky due to old fluid/crud.










First get some ATF, the FSM says that I should use Dexron II or equivalent, I used dexron III since Its backward compatible anyway.

Second, find the reservoir. It should be either a little black metal container or translucent plastic container that has hoses connecting to the power steering pump. In my case here:









Then you jack up the car, put it in jack stands (as we will be turning the steering wheel with the engine off), and put a catch can under the car where you will be draining the fluid. Remove the power steering return line. the return line is the thinner line and in my case is in the front (front as in front of car)








your choice if you want to put hoses that lead to the drain pan for less mess (i didnt, i just cleaned it off afterwards) 

No pics from here on, sorry. 
With the return line removed, fluid should be draining out the reservoir. now turn the steering wheel lock to lock until no fluid comes out of the return line (its good to have an assistant for this). since we are doing a flush, put some ATF in the now empty reservoir. if you have an assistant, you could just cover the hole where the return line connects to and fill it up while the assistant turns lock to lock. 
If you dont have an assistant, fill the reservoir just until the return line hole starts to drip, then turn lock to lock

Keep turning the steering wheel, and filling the reservoir until the fluid coming out of the return line is clean and fresh pink. 

Now with everything flushed, you can now reinstall the return line, and fill the reservoir. You could also put some seafoam trans tune if you want (I didnt, but i'd prefer to put trans tune before flushing the system) After filling, turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to bleed the air out of the system. MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR NEVER RUNS DRY. well nothing bad will happen, it would just take longer to bleed if you let it run dry

Now you can put the car back to the ground, and start the engine!
just let the car run for awhile so the pump could force air out of the system. You may notice at first that the steering wheel is still a bit heavy (mine was, but it wasnt sticky anymore) as there is still a bit of air in the system, you could just keep turning the steering wheel and making sure the reservoir doesnt run dry.

After awhile steering should be light and smooth again! test drive and check for noises, and check the fluid. 

Here is the old fluid:









forgot to mention that theres a strainer here that you could clean, and heres the new fluid:









heres a better view:









I dipped some paper towels in the fluid. left is the old fluid, in the right is the new fluid. see the difference? the new fluid isnt brown and smells better too!

Hope this would be helpful to anybody that would stumble upon this thread in the future, I didnt want to start a new thread just for this so I posted this here.

Now back to the suspension work.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

srut tower without strutt









strut tower, inside... do i need to repair? 








this is the strut, i removed it, no oil leaks so the shocks still seems OK. but ill replace everything anyway

All pics on the drivers side BTW...









I WILL replace the driveshaft, the boot did not have a clamp so dust could have entered and it could fail at anytime.
Unfortunately they do not have driveshafts for the Sentra in stock at the parts store near me. Since Nissan isnt very popular here they couldnt tell when they will have... though theres this place where its sure that they have it in stock, the traffic situation here (especially since its almost december) makes it impractical to travel...









Driveshaft again (driver side still), not looking good (the grease is gritty) should I grease it for the time being?








Sway bar link is tight! no play...








Tie rod end is tight too! I tried wiggling, moving up and down, pulling and pushing, no play at all! 

I watched a video from youtube (Eric the car guy I think) that you could wiggle the wheel in the 12 and 6 o'clock position. and if theres play, it could be the ball joint... there seems to be a little bit of play...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Great pics, and work. 

Yeah, Eric the Car guy is good; he's in Ohio.

Good news on the tie-rod end and sway bar end.

The pics of the d's side strut tower are interesting. The first one (from post 124) sure looked like the tower was rusted through with holes visible and with the nut at the 2:00 position actually sitting in the rusted-away section. But, the succeeding 2 pics look better, with the holes not there. So, those 2 pics suggest a good wire-brushing, cleaning with a good solvent, rust conversion treatment (or 2 or 3) (allowing curing in between each), then rust encapsulation (or 2) (allowing curing), and optionally final painting-over might bring it back. But, having said that, the remaining thickness of the black colored part in the underneath picture I would think would dictate whether that would work. If too thin, then ... structural repair ... but, if still structurally sound, then, the above.

I would think it worth it that the inner tri-pod joint could be thoroughly cleaned and assessed and then re-assembled/re-packed. My experience with Nissan's CV joints is they hold up well, despite abuses. New cir-clips would be good. Nissan always says to new cir-clip the diff end (anyway).

Nice write-up on the PS pump/return line/fluid change. You should make a post with that title and point to your post write-up.

Good stuff.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

was supposed to quote your post but ended up liking it, heheheh...

Yeah, ive been watching Erics videos for awhile now

Im about to use rust converter on the rusty panels of the car so the rust wont spread too fast. 

There are a lot of paint shops here that do scrape to metal where they dip (some scrape it by hand) the body of the car in a chemical and everything aside from the metal comes off! then they repair the holes, dents, etc. apply rustproofing, primer, paint etc... might have that done when all mechanical work is complete...

Could I clean the whole CV joint with gasoline or lacquer thinner? to remove all the old grease...

BTW, 









in this pic of the strut, theres a small arrow (upper side of the pic). where should it point? in the car or out?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Points outward (to side). Easy memory aid is points out toward strut bottom weld bracket (where the 2 bolts pass through the knuckle holes).

I wouldn't use gasoline.

Oh, and forgot to say: to not disassemble tripod needle bearings; scribe a mark on axle shaft and tripod before removing cir-clip and removing it (pushing down on axle or jaw-pull tripod off); and clean shaft end and tripod easier.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, thanks. was making sure that i installed it correctly

Ill just wipe the old grease off instead... (once i get the boot)

could I use a sharpie to scribe a mark? wouldnt it come off easily?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Yeah, maybe a small etch mark/line on the shaft and tripod side. Just enough to get back on the same splines.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Alright, I just noticed that the rubber boot is still intact with no tears. perhaps I could reuse it and just put a new clamp? 

And, earlier today, I took the car out for a spin around the block. the brakes seem to be binding, seems to be a stuck guide pin (did i mention i havent replaced the front brake pads yet? theyre still very thick). Might as well replace everything...

Forgot to mention that I havent been able to remove the wheels yet, and havent replaced the tires. Im getting tired of taking the car apart without being able to remove the wheel, and im not able to travel the car long distances as the tires might blow...

Theres not much info in the net about removing "tuner" lug nuts. Only info I found was in the Honda forums about using a special extraction tool that I cant find anywhere! or drilling the stud off!! 
When I have the time, I will do a write up (probably make a new thread for this one) on how to remove stuck "tuner" lug nuts with an oxy acetylene torch!



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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> Theres not much info in the net about removing "tuner" lug nuts. Only info I found was in the Honda forums about using a special extraction tool that I cant find anywhere! or drilling the stud off!!
> When I have the time, I will do a write up (probably make a new thread for this one) on how to remove stuck "tuner" lug nuts with an oxy acetylene torch!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Check this web site for extraction tools:

https://www.google.com/search?q=tun...or+a+sentra&newwindow=1&safe=active&tbm=isch&


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Check this web site for extraction tools:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=tun...or+a+sentra&newwindow=1&safe=active&tbm=isch&




Thanks, but my "tuner" nut is sort of like a giant allen screw (a female nut?) and I used to have the tool for removing it. But, both the tool and the nut/s have rounded. The post I saw on some Honda forums were about using a special extraction tool that grips inside the nut even when its rounded out ( which i cant find any here). So as a last resort (and a desperate measure) im going to cut the nuts with an axy acetylane torch...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Ever get that "tuner" nut removed safely?


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Yeah, was curious how all the work is progressing.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Sorry for the delay, there was a bit of an emergency...
i couldnt get a torch, so i welded the tool to the nut:








and it was a hell of a nut to remove! (sorry, couldnt find my other pics)

progress so far: new driveshaft boots, cleaned up interior a bit, cleaned the gas tank several times...

in progress: looking for stock wheels, steering wheel, front and rear driver side power window regulators, etc.

sorry again for the delay.

EDIT: forgot to mention that to remove the nut from the tool (so you could weld it to the other nuts) you could either grind with a grinder, cut with a torch, or whack it with a hammer.
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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Dang. Glad to hear you got them. Nice having those out of the way now.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

those nuts might have been the tightest ones i ever removed! im guessing an impact wrench was used to tighten it in the past...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

The brake pedal seems spongy when the engine is on... its firm with the engine off, but slowly sinks if you press gently. 
I tried bleeding the brakes but no air bubbles came out, and there are no visible signs of leaks either. Any ideas?

Wasnt supposed to post today as its Christmas. Merry Christmas everybody!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Seems to be the master cylinder thats broke. Just bought a new one today and will post a writeup on replacement later on...

EDIT: I have an old Toeyoda brake booster lying around, and it seems to fit! talk about saving money! (and my car becoming a Nissan-Toyota hybrid...)


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

For some reason, my phone doesnt seem to want to turn on... So I might not be able to post the procedures of the master cylinder replace (I take my pictures with my phone)

Anyway, regarding the TPS adjustment. 
I adjusted the TPS a while back, as per the FSM instructions and this: http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/51103-tps-adjustment-woes-ended-good.html
Adjusted at exactly .51 volts and followed the procedures, I thought the idle was a bit high (even after following the procedures...) so I just let it be in hopes that it would just "relearn" the new settings...

I checked the idle and it was about 950 RPM, and its the lowest I could go even after following the guide in this thread: http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/118530-definitive-guide-how-adjust-timing.html

The fsm says the voltage when gas pedal is released is approx. 0.35-0.65V. The initial setting of my TPS btw was 0.31V I think...
When I adjusted the TPS to make 0.39V the idle was much lower and I could now set it at about 700 RPM (I could go lower though) 

Was it a right choice to lower the TPS voltage? or was it just a band-aid fix for something I might not be doing right?

btw, CTS broke down again showing MIL code 13. Now im ordering an original Nissan CTS and should be here tomorrow!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

If ECU was getting false cold signal from bad/failing CTS, that would have raised idle.

How did master cyl job go? Did that fix pedal feel? If not, had you checked the 1-way vacuum valve in the booster-to-IM hose?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Im just waiting for my new CTS to be delivered, Ill install it, bring the TPS back to .51V and see how it goes.

The brake pedal no longer sinks to the floor when engine is off. I bench bled the system before install though I believe there is still a little air. I checked the 1-way valve and it works fine.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> .
> I adjusted the TPS a while back, as per the FSM instructions and this: http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/51103-tps-adjustment-woes-ended-good.html
> Adjusted at exactly .51 volts and followed the procedures, I thought the idle was a bit high (even after following the procedures...) so I just let it be in hopes that it would just "relearn" the new settings...
> 
> ...


The idle speed spec calls for 675 rpm with an M/T so adjusting the TPS to 0.39 V to get 700 rpm at idle is OK to do. If you run into problems with your new TPS setting, you can always go back to the old setting.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

The new CTS and oil cap came!

rogoman, thanks for your advice. will observe the car for now and make adjustments as necessary (since all sensors are working again).


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Nice. Did you ohm and temp-test before installing? And, compare to removed one?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Nice. Did you ohm and temp-test before installing? And, compare to removed one?




Yes, I compared to the FSM...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Was reviewing the FSM, and I found in the brake section page BR-15 referring to the brake booster: "Refill with new brake fluid 'DOT 3'" 
Does that mean that I have to fill the brake booster with brake fluid?? Seems weird...

UPDATE(s): Body repairs to be done by march or april!
New "pre-muffler" as the old one has collapsed! (The car became quieter than I expected)
New tires!!
Found stock wheels, though previous owner only wants to sell 2 (for some weird reason) still trying to negotiate!
Currently fixing wiring (should I say "fine tuning" the wiring...)

Almost forgot to post the pics of the master cylinder... will post tomorrow!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> Was reviewing the FSM, and I found in the brake section page BR-15 referring to the brake booster: "Refill with new brake fluid 'DOT 3'"
> Does that mean that I have to fill the brake booster with brake fluid?? Seems weird...


No, you don't fill the brake booster with brake fluid; it operates on engine vacuum only. FSMs were written for factory trained service technicians to serve as reference; not for shade tree mechanics learning about automobiles. You're reading too much into the documentation.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> No, you don't fill the brake booster with brake fluid; it operates on engine vacuum only. FSMs were written for factory trained service technicians to serve as reference; not for shade tree mechanics learning about automobiles. You're reading too much into the documentation.


Thanks for clarifying! Good thing I wasnt stupid enough to put brake fluid in the thing...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Love the progress. Bet those tires feel great now with the tuner nuts behind you.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

so these are some of the photos of the old master cylinder and the box of the new one... as you can see, the rear of the master cylinder is all rusted (and was even leaking brake fluid)
@Car guy, Its a wonderful feeling being able to take the wheels out! specially when im working under the car!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Dang. Great pics. How long had the car sat before you began the restorations?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

heres another photo with the MC installed. notice that I didnt change the brake booster, I pre-ordered from Nissan though... and if you look closely theres RTV in the back where the MC bolts on to the booster, the o-ring inside is broken so I used RTV for a temporary fix

Also notice the copper brake line, the other steel lines broke so I had to make my own...

@ Car guy, the car sat for 9 years before I took it back home with me...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Very nice. Yes, noticed the line. What was the diameter?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Its 3/16" same as stock. I used a copper brake line because it was soft and easy to bend by hand. But I still couldn't follow the original bends...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

UPDATE: The reason why the engine wasn't idling down to 700 or so RPM with the TPS at .51V is because the fast idle cam isnt adjusted correctly.

According to the Euro (or was it UK) FSM: 
"2. Disconnect engine coolant temperature sensor harness
connector and check resistance of sensor as
shown in the figure.
3. When the resistance of engine coolant temperature
sensor is 0.26 to 0.39 kΩ, make sure that mark A
is aligned with mark C as shown in the figure"

Weird, as the engine idles down with the tps at .30 or so volts (albeit rather slowly...) 

UPDATE 2: First highway run at 100 km/h. Everything went well, although the coolant gauge was almost at the red line, perhaps a new radiator is needed?
And its running quite rich (spark plug pics tomorrow), No CEL though... (My engine has no cat, no o2 sensor, and EGR) 
Many of my previous cars have been plagued with rich running problems (e.g. classic VW bug, and carbureted toyota) didnt expect I'd have that problem with an EFI car too!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Dang. Did the radiator fan kick on, when the dash needle rose? Relay and fan motor operating? Sorry, can't recall if the coolant and water pump were changed.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Yes, radiator fans kick on. Yes, coolant was replaced before. Water pump was not changed.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Sorry, can't recall if the thermostat was replaced. It opens (around 180'), correct? If so, then, concur on the new radiator (and WP) (and it may even need ... heater core).


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

It was common practice here to remove the thermostat "to prevent overheating due to the hot climate" (but I know its wrong)
Pre-ordered from Nissan months back but got no return call... Dont want to buy aftermarket as I heard they break easily.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Sorry for the delay again. So heres the pic of the spark plugs:









The car is running rich, any ideas why? the car has no O2 sensors, cat, and egr... Also no vacuum leaks.

btw, its not burning oil. there was still a little oil left in the valve cover so the spark plugs got wet.










Also heres a photo of the thermostat housing. as you can see its broken, I put some RTV silicone to stop water from leaking.










But I got a new one! (plus a thermostat, Nissan didnt call me back so I got a non-Nissan one)










Plus a broken bolt, but thankfully I got it off! 


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Before I forget, a guy from another thread wants me to make an HD video on changing the serpentine belts of the B14. I cant guarantee a video but I can guarantee a Picture guide! I keep forgetting to make one so Ill have to make a to list with an alarm on my phone!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Great pics.

<The car is running rich, any ideas why? the car has no O2 sensors, cat, and egr... Also no vacuum leaks.>

Previous CTS issues and/or F.I.s.

Are those performance plugs? Would stick with stock tips, via NGK.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

the plugs are stock NGK BKR5E.

the car runs smoothly, no signs of injector clogging or leaking...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

V-power, okay, hmmm.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

currently doing some research, but so far ive only found info on carbureted engines, and efi engines with o2 sensors...

was comparing my plugs to a friends '96 corolla with the 4A-FE engine (also no cat, egr, and o2 sensors) and the spark plugs of the corolla seem "more normal". whitish electrode with little carbon on the ground electrode (pics soon)... whats worse is that the corolla is only used in city driving at slow speeds and extended idling time!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

So something unfortunate happened, the rear engine mount suddenly broke and damaged the transmission...

I dont know how it happened. I just downshifted to 2nd gear then I heard a bang... I couldnt get it out of gear anymore so I coasted the car to the side...

After towing it home, I removed the transmission: 
the hole where the rear mount bolts on to, circled in yellow broke...









the threads of where the tranny mount goes to also broke: 









the local machinist told me that the broken lower mount has to be rebuilt (or did he say "built-up") but I have to be the one to take apart the transmission casing for them! Im not sure if Ill be able to take apart a transmission... man this project gets harder and harder!!! and as for the tranny mount, he said they could just re-thread that...

so im still deciding whether to buy another transmission or just have this one repaired. having the case repaired is cheaper but i have to remove the case myself (which i cant do). buying a transmission is the more expensive option but easier! 





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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Damn. That's tough. Good thing you're okay. 

Why do they want the bell housing/differential disassembled? Is it due to the heat that will ensue?

Not sure I'd proceed with that, lest it fail again at a higher speed next time.

Plus, there are small steel check balls inside the tranny and everything associated with the striking rod. 

And, who knows the state of the input and output shaft bearings after this/at this point.

Sorry to hear, especially after all your work/progress.

Oh, and what happened to the axles when it fell? I see you have the tripods separated (rather than removed).


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> Sorry for the delay again. So heres the pic of the spark plugs:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You might want to check the specs on the coolant temperature sensor that feeds into the ECU; if it's bad, that could cause the rich mixture.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Yeah...

They told me that there might be plastic parts and rubber seals inside that might melt so they want me to disassemble it first. could you confirm if its really necessary? 

The transmission didnt really fall, the rear engine mount broke and damaged the transmission case in the process...

Here is a picture:










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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> You might want to check the specs on the coolant temperature sensor that feeds into the ECU; if it's bad, that could cause the rich mixture.


oh, just saw your post...

the coolant temp sensor is new, I also already checked the resistances with a multimeter...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> oh, just saw your post...
> 
> the coolant temp sensor is new, I also already checked the resistances with a multimeter...





carguy101 said:


> Sorry for the delay again. So heres the pic of the spark plugs:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





carguy101 said:


> the plugs are stock NGK BKR5E.
> 
> the car runs smoothly, no signs of injector clogging or leaking...


To properly diagnose dirty/leaking fuel injectors, they need to be remove and tested on a flow bench tester. You can also do a quick leak test by installing a fuel pressure gauge, then turn the ignition switch to the "RUN" position *without starting the engine*. If the pressure drops off rapidly, one or more injectors are leaking. 
How long have you had the old spark plugs? If they are very old, then it's time for a set of new ones. Running a rich mixture can be caused by some of the following:

Improper spark plug
Insufficient compression
Incorrect fuel pressure
Dirty fuel injectors
Intake system vacuum leak
Incorrect PCV hose connection


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

rogoman said:


> To properly diagnose dirty/leaking fuel injectors, they need to be remove and tested on a flow bench tester. You can also do a quick leak test by installing a fuel pressure gauge, then turn the ignition switch to the "RUN" position *without starting the engine*. If the pressure drops off rapidly, one or more injectors are leaking.
> How long have you had the old spark plugs? If they are very old, then it's time for a set of new ones. Running a rich mixture can be caused by some of the following:
> 
> Improper spark plug
> ...


flow bench tester? theres a shop here that cleans fuel injectors, perhaps they have one of those? 

I used the stock BKR5E spark plug as specified in the user manual.
ill get back to you on the compression
as for the fuel pressure... the fuel pump im using isnt really for the sentra, but that wont affect fuel pressure right? 
[Intake system vacuum leak] smoke tested and no leaks.
PCV fits snug to the valve cover and hose is clamped down properly...

Ill take it to the fuel injector cleaner once i got the engine mounts all sorted out...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Great pic of the inner tripod.

<They told me that there might be plastic parts and rubber seals inside that might melt so they want me to disassemble it first. could you confirm if its really necessary?>

Well, that is true. There is the plastic "oil channel" (round circular white plastic) inside, the plastic speedometer pinion, the rubber trans bleed cap, and the rubber diff seals, input shaft seal, and output shaft seal. And, then there are the liquid seals between the trans and the bell housing and diff.

The damage is on the diff corner, so those seals could be replaced easily enough. The speedometer pinion probably can be removed and re-inserted (though they can be tricky on re-install). But, for the rest, with those high temps, ... could only speculate. There is no other rubber or plastic inside the diff itself, if that helps. Just the spider gears, pinion, final drive, and speedometer "driven gear."

On Rogo's PCV point, did you remove it and replace it or at least remove it and clean it out completely to see if it could still function?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> flow bench tester? theres a shop here that cleans fuel injectors, perhaps they have one of those?
> 
> I used the stock BKR5E spark plug as specified in the user manual.
> ill get back to you on the compression
> ...


Irregardless of what fuel pump you're using, the pressures need to be as follows:
Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel filter. The readings at idle should be approximately as follows:
- with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi
- with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

Smoke testing for vacuum leaks is *not* very accurate. Use a vacuum gauge for good accuracy; most auto parts stores sell vacuum gauges. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source, usually somewhere on the intake manifold. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle body and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

The vacuum gauge makes for a very good diagnostic tool. Here are some vacuum gauge readings and their indications:

Low & steady: Late ign timing/valve timing, low compression

Very low: Vacuum leak

High & steady: Early ignition timing

Gradual drop in reading from idle to higher RPMs: Excessive back pressure in exhaust system 

Intermittent fluctuation at idle: Ignition miss, sticking valve 

Needle fluctuates as engine speed increases: Ignition miss, blown head gasket, leaking valve or weak valve spring 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The easiest test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the exhaust system.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Follow Car Guy's advice about the PCV valve itself.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Oh, and I forgot the rubber seal at the striking rod. That is too close for comfort to the diff case breakage.

Good info Rogo, as usual.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

UPDATE: I tried to bolt on the rear engine mount bracket to the transmission and it still seems to bolt down fine. so i might not have to replace the tranny anymore (and no need for the "build-up" thingy for the crack, but still needs rethread for the transmission mount)
@rogoman, thanks for the info. im currently looking for an automotive test kit (compression test, vacuum gauge, etc.) as its hard borrowing from friends... but anyway, @Car guy, i already cleaned the pcv valve with some carb cleaner before... 

BTW, im suspecting that that the brake booster is leaking. but will double check once i install the transmission...


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> but still needs rethread for the transmission mount


You can re-thread the tranny mount yourself by using a Helicoil kit. All you need to do is determine the hole diameter and the thread pitch which is measured in metric. You can buy Helicoil kits in most auto parts stores. Check out the Amazon web site:

Amazon.com: helicoil kits: Automotive


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

The Original Thread Checker ? Metric | S&W Manufacturing

Has been a great asset over the years.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Thanks guys. Ive used them before, and are quite cheap here!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Called Nissan and asked if they have in stock the rear mount bracket part number 11332-1m200 and as usual, only available for pre-order... so im looking for a used one right now.

Just out of curiosity, I opened the transmission case. Now I have a quick question (I think this is grounds for starting a new thread but I dont want to clutter this forum too much), when I move the striking rod to the 5th/reverse position (to the right) there is spring tension, but when I move to the 1st/2nd position (left) there is none. Is that normal? no parts missing inside?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

UPDATE: I was able to rethread and reinstall the transmission!

here is a picture of the threads:









and i had the flywheel resurfaced too:










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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Fantastic! Great stuff. Congrats!


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

Just a quick update:

After doing some tests, I found out that injector number 2 sometimes leaks and is sometimes stuck closed (causing the engine to run on 3 cylinders). But usually it just leaks.

Started the test with a fuel pressure gauge connected where the fuel filter should be, ignition on engine off... at first pressure would stay steady at 30 psi but after numerous ignition on/off cycles and engine on/off cycles I was able to simulate the problem twice...

I replaced injector number 2 but still seems to be running rich, so I brought the car to the mechanic and told me that the car was misfiring at idle and the injectors are clogged, I believe that clogged injectors would cause the car to run lean not rich...

I was told to put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank, in hopes of solving the problem I put a bottle of techron in the car... im currently hoping that it would work. 

oh and rogoman, I did a vacuum test, the vacuum at idle shows 19 inches of mercury but sometimes fluctuates (goes down to about 16 then back to 19)


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

carguy101 said:


> Just a quick update:
> 
> After doing some tests, I found out that injector number 2 sometimes leaks and is sometimes stuck closed (causing the engine to run on 3 cylinders). But usually it just leaks.
> 
> ...


The injectors may not be necessarily clogged but instead dirty causing them to leak appreciably and produce bad spray patterns; this would account for a rich mixture and erratic idling (miss-fires); this could also account for the extreme fluctuations of vacuum. The vacuum reading should be rock-steady at any given RPM. Intermittent vacuum fluctuation at idle could also be caused by ignition miss or sticking valve(s).

Techron may help as long as the injectors aren't severely dirty. There is also a product called BG products 44K. It is however a very strong cleaner so use it sparingly. If the injectors won't cleanup, your best bet is to buy all new ones. I've had good success with new injectors from AdvanceAuto. The prices are reasonable. However *DON'T BUY RE-MANS* from any supplier; re-mans are not really re-manufactured, just cleaned up and maybe quick tested. A while back I tried re-mans; bad experience for the most part, some even were DOA; never again.


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

another update: I took the sentra to the highway when all of a sudden the engine misfired to bad, i think it only ran on 3 cylinders again... when i stopped due to the traffic, the car was shaking so i bad. but suddenly the rpms rose to about 2k rpm, went back to idle and ran smooth again!

could this be related to the techron? or is it just the fuel injectors acting up...

idle is also a bit higher, but i cant seem to put it in timing mode anymore. weird...



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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, it doesnt seem to be going into timing mode at all! no matter how much i try...

I tried setting idle without going into timing mode and the ecu doesnt seem to interfere...


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

alright, one more update. I checked the spark plugs of 2 other sentras here and the color is about the same as my spark plugs... perhaps its normal for sentras here to run a tad richer...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Did things improve as the days/miles passed after the techron? Has that tank been depleted, and new gas filled?


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## carguy101 (Aug 28, 2016)

im noticing faster startup when cold, but not much performance wise...

yeah, new gas has been filled. going to drain the tank and clean it again just for peace of mind


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