# Rust!!



## Irons (Jul 10, 2002)

What is with the '93's? My 93 with 100k is WAY more rusty than my 240k '91. At any rate. I have some horrible rust at the top of the rear wheel well. I was considering working on this myself. Any have any 'how to's" or tips out there? I know it will be LOTS of sanding for me. hehhe.. BTW, no body work experince.


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## ScarCrow28 (May 14, 2002)

i got rust too. GRRRR. right in front of the rear wheels, lower rear door/rockerpannel. both sides of the car. and some spots where the rear bumper meet the trunk. Its pissing me off because i can't do jack shit about it!


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## ga16det (Sep 20, 2002)

its not the car cuz , i live in miami FL. and i have no rust on my b-13 and the body has about 200,000. miles.


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## Gump (Jan 30, 2003)

myne has none at current, i also make damn sure to rinse the wheel wells out after every serious salting the road gets.

Good thing about no body exsperience is, you get to learn.


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## brucek2 (Sep 25, 2002)

eh sounds bad. good luck. good thing i live in sunny southern california .


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## sunnysentra (Jul 24, 2002)

I painted my entire underbody when new, meticulously kept it very clean, pulled the front liners out and cleaned and painted them. I got rust in the rockers and it popped out. I cut the metal at the bend roll or the sill at the rear fenderwell. I have pictures, the rust was getting bad, what happens is water and junk got up into the vent holes on the body itself then the skin started this also. I cut off the skin on the rockers up to the doors on each side and then sandblasted the inner holes, then used rust to metal spray and then painted with rust oleum 3 coats. then I formed new metal on each side and spot putty to blend it together. Never new I had rust. But if you want a body shop to do waht I did, the labor is very high, it took me a long as time to cut the rust out and snadblast the rust out of the tiny holes and ect. Chris 92 classic


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## Irons (Jul 10, 2002)

Thanks for the info. Are those picture on the web?


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

If you want to do it yourself here's how I'd do it:

Supplies you'll need:

Rubber sanding block
flat, hard rubber sanding pad
80, 120, 400, 600 grit sanding papers
sandable primer (likely in a spray can)
a 4 oz. can of gray Por-15 paint www.porstore.com This stuff's not cheap but it works very well and the rust likely won't come back. I wouldn't bother with the starter kits, you don't need the "Marine Clean" or the "Metal Ready". I've used them, and not used them, and got the same results.
color coat enamel
Rubbing a light cutting compound
a buffer or just clean rags to do it by hand
a grinder or drill mounted wire brush if the rust is pretty bad
A small can of Duraglas if the rust has perforated the metal, if not maybe just a small can of Evercoat Glazing Putty.

Start by either sanding the rusty area with 80 grit sandpaper using the flat rubber pad on curved areas and the block on flat areas. Or use the wire brush to do this if the rust is rather bad and over a larger area. Once the area is cleaned up if you're going to have to fill with body filler, try to recess the edges of the rusty metal using a ball pien hammer or a hmmer and punch. tack off the area with a dry, clean rag. Using a paint brush, apply a coat of the Por-15 paint. This stuff takes about 5 hours to dry before you can put a second coat on, and 10 hours to dry before you can work on the area. Once you've got the rusty metal well covered with the por-15, if you're going to have to fill with putty, sand the area with 120 grit paper, but just enough to scuff the por-15, then tack the area off with a rag. Apply thin coats of filler and allow an hour to cure before sanding. Once you've got your area filled and shaped to how you like it, or the po5-15 primered area is reay for paint, sand the por-15 with 400 grit just enough to remove the gloss. If you've filled, then you don't need to do any sanding. Don't mask anything off except glass, lights, turn signals, handles, etc. Masking the same surface where paint will be, leaves a ridge that would bave to be wet sanded down and almost always leaves a blemish in the finished product. Don't worry about overspray on painted surfaces, it will be taken off with comound when everything is done. Tack the area off with a rag and spray one light coat of primer and let it dry as long as is recommended on the can before applying a second coat. Spray several light coats until the area is well covered (opaque), spraying past the margin of the last coat with each successive coat. Use a primer color close to what your paint color is, if possible. Once the primer has cured overnight, sand with 600 grit paper until it's smooth, you can wet sand if you have wet sanding paper, but I don't like wet sanding because it requires you to wait a long time before you can paint, and usually you have to re-scuff the area for proper adhesion (the paint cells close back up after the amount of time it takes for a wet sanded area to properly dry). To scuff it back up, just lighty hit the area iwth the 600 again and tack it off. Then apply several light coats of body color, again waiting for the proper flash time between coats and increasing the painted area with each coat. When the paint has fully cured (about 24 hours) you can buff the painted area and surrounding areas where overspray may have occurred. This will smooth out the painted area and take off the overspray. You'll likely want to buff the whole car so it all has the same gloss/luster. So a machine orbital buffer would be the safest, most effective means to do this. Don't use a fixed, or grinder style buffer, you might burn through the paint if you're not experienced with using that type of buffer.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

I was able to fix my rockers with a lot less fuss. You can buy new rockers from Nissan for the 4-door B13. They are not available for the two door cars as the rockers were part of the quarter panel on those. In any case, buy one four door rocker from the dealer. Cut off as much as you need and lay it over the original rusty rockers on your car. Cut the two simultaneously with your 3" cut off wheel so the fit will be exact. Then weld in the new rocker end piece. Oh, I'd clean up the loose scale and rust in the rest of the original rocker panels and paint inside of them while they are cut open.


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## Slacky (May 31, 2004)

the bottom of my front quarters behind the wheel are completely rotted away, but its understandable because i bought my car from a guy in massachuesettes, lots of snow= lots of salt= fender globs of salt/snow u are not likely to kick off never the less rinse in freezing weatehr, im just gonna get new fenders from the junk yard


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## Twiz (Aug 24, 2004)

The only rust that I've seen on my car was on the inside when I removed the rear panel which cover the rear deck speakers, mostly along the wheel well but that's on the inside, I got it all brushed out with a wire brush in a drill, primed and spray painted it with Rustoleum Gloss Black which happens to match the Nissan KH3 color really good.


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## RBI*04 (Sep 10, 2004)

if the rust has rotted through your best bet is to cut out ALL the rust (cut out extra too) then WELD a filler plate in. theres about a 90% chance the fiberglass/bondo/whatever you use in place of sheet metal will crack and look like shit, even if the whole is the size of a dime.


and youll want to lookinto some weld-thru primer


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## toolapcfan (Jul 10, 2002)

My fenders have that rust down on the rocker portion. I'm not going to screw with fixing them, new fenders are cheap enough. As for my rockers, I'm going to layover fribreglass and fill the void inside them with expansion foam.


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