# 2015 Versa note bad suspension bushings?



## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Just bought a 2015 Versa note with 40K miles.
It only came with one key so my wife takes it by the Nissan dealer to get a new key ($190 ouch!).
While there they offer her a "free inspection".
They claim "rear suspension bushings torn and need replacing." and quote +$1000 
On one hand I knew I was buying a used car and knew there may be hidden problems... but on the other hand I had hoped it is only a year old and I would get many years of trouble free transportation.
Anyone have this problem or is this a known weak link in the rear suspension?
We are taking the car to a alignment/suspension shop today for a second opinion (there goes another $40 ).

Just a little disappointing... only had the car a week and we already have to spend money on it... the whole idea of buying the Versa was to save money.

Thank in advance.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Update, independent suspension shop said nothing wrong and did the inspection for free.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Did you buy the car as a "certified pre-owned car"? If you didn't, then you're exposed to an "as-is" condition where you'll end up paying for various fixes. A certified pre-owned car or CPO is a type of used car. Most often late-model, they differ from other used cars by having been inspected, refurbished, and certified by a manufacturer or other certifying authority. They also typically include an extended warranty, special financing, and additional benefits. You'll find that CPO cars are priced close to non-cpo cars.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

No, not CPO and bought "as it" because it was several thousand dollars less that any other listed 2015 Versa.
Also heard back from the dealership and they changed their story to it being the front bushings. Had the car inspected at a local suspension shop, front bushings are starting to tear, will have them replaced at a cost of $800.
Live and learn...


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Scott, 

Read my post on the Versa floor pan heat shields.

Read Quadraria's information on the exhaust manifold heat shields and pipe welds. 

Stay out in front of the undercarriage rust, front and rear.

Keep a watchful eye on your oil consumption!

A CVT will be in your future as well.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Scott,
> 
> Read my post on the Versa floor pan heat shields.


Where are you located? I'm is S. Calif. and maybe the rust won't be a problem here?

First time Nissan owner and starting to look like my last Nissan.:|


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Good on your location, then. (East coast here.)

If you stay on top of things (change the CVT fluid on schedule with only NS-3 - if it hasn't been done yet at 40k do so, monitor the floor pan heat shields and install 1" washers over the studs before the shields tear too far - vibration issue not rust, be vigilant on maintaining the engine oil level and oil and OEM filter changes, check and swap brake pads - front and rear - before rotors affected, etc.), you should be okay.

The exhaust manifold shields will be (largely) independent of geographic location, though.

Which front bushings have started to tear?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

If I may make a suggestion, it should be clear to you that the dealership is more interested in large repair bills than providing you with quality advice and service.
CarGuys question is really apropros -- what part of your suspension are they referring to? Because there are not that many of them. A quick check on Rock auto shows Beck/arnley control arms for 44 US bucks each side. These would give you two new balljoints and 4 new suspension bushings. Stabilizer bar bushings go for 5.73 the pair. Front end links of which you have two go for between 12 and 24 dollars each. New KYB struts cost 44.95 each. So keeping this in mind for less than 250 in parts, and max 3 hrs labour, you could replace pretty much your entire front suspension+ get an alignment done for less than 650. But your car is a baby, I would have thought it would still be under warranty. Was the car ever in an accident?
My suggestion is for you to identify the actual parts needing replacement, buy them yourself, and find a mechanic who will work with you or do it yourself. Never accept a high service quote without taking the time to investigate it yourself.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

The bushings are the front, lower, back of the wishbone.
The independent shop I took it to for a second opinion showed me the tearing.
Both the dealership and the indy shop say the bushings are part of the lower control arm and thus the whole control arm(s) needs to be replaced.

Silly question (bought the car used with little or no paperwork) it has an automatic trans, how can I tell if it has the CV-T or the 4 speed auto? I can see the RPM's drop and feel it shift so I presume it is the 4 speed?

Thanks for your help!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Well then buy a right hand and a left hand control arm, shipped to your door for about 125 total and then find a mechanic to install them for one hours labour. Moreover you probably wont even need an alignment afterwards. My control arms are a lot more expensive. I was quoted over 1400 + tax to replace them. I bought the parts myself, made two phone calls to find someone to do the work that very day, and total cost was under $400

Here is a link 2015 NISSAN VERSA 1.6L L4 Control Arm | RockAuto.
Beck/arnley are very high quality parts oftentimes the exact same as Nissan oem. I would not hesitate to get them, and the price is great.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Relatively easy to replace. Concur on recommending DIY. 

Do one side at a time: jack up; support with stand; remove tire (for clearance); put down newspapers or old towel (for dirt - for expediting post-work-cleanup); remove ball jt nut; free ball jt - just hammer next to it on side of knuckle, will come loose and lower down; remove arm's bolts; lower arm down. Reverse steps to install (without hammering). Then, do other side. 

On the CVT question, didn't realize they still had a 4-sp AT. A quick check here shows only CVT (and MT). What do your under hood labels say?

Were the bushings just slightly hairlined or actually cracked through?


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Car guy said:


> On the CVT question, didn't realize they still had a 4-sp AT. A quick check here shows only CVT (and MT). What do your under hood labels say?
> 
> Were the bushings just slightly hairlined or actually cracked through?


I will take a look under the hood this weekend to check the labels to confirm if it is a CVT, can you feel the shift in the CVT?

Bushings looked like they were tearing about 25%.

I may get flamed for this but in this case I think I better just have my local mechanic do the job.
We are not best friends but he does a lot of work me, my family, my neighbors etc., he has offered me a loaner car for the day so he can do the job, and he has already ordered the parts so I feel it would be bad form to pull out at this point (had I known I could have bought the parts and asked him to do the labor).
Plus I bought this car to be a economical grinder to get me to work and back reliably and not a project car, I had a Miata that I put a lot of time into tinkering with and it was fun (most of the time ) but for now with this car I need it fixed ASAP.

Thanks again for your input.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Why would you get flamed for having your mechanic look after it? I am still trying to get my head around your estimates. Seems first dealer would have taken 1000 from you and not have fixed the problem. Second diagnosis provided you with evidence, but I see no justification for the price quote you were given. Potentially you don<t even have to replace both sides, given the relatively young age of the other. There are no adjustments with the arms, they just bolt in place. So how the heck did you get a quote for $800. You would be a long ways towards getting those new rims you desire with the savings on this job alone.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Looked under the hood, it does have CVT.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Thanks for the tranny resolution Scott.

I believe Nissan did away with dipsticks on their CVTs (I won't opine on that, but it is well worth recognizing that and thinking about the customer impact); otherwise, I'd suggest confirming the condition of the fluid and its level.

But, in lieu of that, I would recommend a (concerted) effort to determine IF and when (what mileage) the CVT fluid was replaced, and if the fluid was NS-3, and, if remotely possible, how many quarts were added. The latter would advise you if it was just drained or flushed. Draining does not replace what is in your torque converter. If there is proof the CVT has not been addressed or fully, then recommend it be flushed with Nissan spec fluid (NS-3). And, it would be worth observing it. The technicians here are happy to have 'a buddy' hang with them, while they tackle a job. The process would be enlightening. 

On Quad's cost thoughts, concur. $800 is exorbitant for the bushings (arms). 

Good luck the rest of the way.


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## scottmandue (Jun 9, 2016)

Car guy said:


> Thanks for the tranny resolution Scott.
> 
> I believe Nissan did away with dipsticks on their CVTs (I won't opine on that, but it is well worth recognizing that and thinking about the customer impact); otherwise, I'd suggest confirming the condition of the fluid and its level.
> 
> ...


So about the CVT, it need to be drained at 40K miles? Is that a DIY job? When the dealership gave us the 'free inspection' would they have checked the CVT?

Thanks,


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Car guy said:


> I believe Nissan did away with dipsticks on their CVTs (I won't opine on that, but it is well worth recognizing that and thinking about the customer impact); otherwise, I'd suggest confirming the condition of the fluid and its level.


You're right. Nissan did away with the dipsticks on the 2014's and newer. They now use something called a charging pipe set that screws into the drain plug hole. IMO, this is now a real pain in the ass for the DIY-er since the car needs to be jacked up and level. I guess Nissan didn't want a DIY-er messing with the CVT.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

<Nissan did away with the dipsticks on the 2014's and newer. They now use something called a charging pipe set that screws into the drain plug hole. IMO, this is now a real pain in the ass for the DIY-er since the car needs to be jacked up and level. I guess Nissan didn't want a DIY-er messing with the CVT.>

Rogo, thanks for the confirmation!

It is still possible to 're-fill' through the dipstick 'pipe' though, correct? (Still, just like before.) (Even though the owner's can't determine level or condition of their CVT fluid anymore.)

And, it is still possible to flush the same way as before for DIYers, correct? By disconnecting the outlet line at the radiator cooler, starting up the car (pre-warmed), letting some fluid run out of the hose into a bucket, turning off the car (to stop the flow), adding new NS-3 into the dipstick 'pipe' equal to what drains out ... and repeating the process until new clean NS-3 comes out. (On our Altima, think I ended up putting in 11 quarts for the flushing, for the 8 quart system; think I had 13 quarts on-hand, if it had taken that, but had 2 left over for next time, when I was done.)

This is all still doable correct?

<So about the CVT, it need to be drained at 40K miles? Is that a DIY job? When the dealership gave us the 'free inspection' would they have checked the CVT?>

Scott, 30k/60k. Rogo's answer on my above process write-up. And, doubtful on the free check, as they would have to have connected up the new equipment, gotten the CVT to a certain temp (128' or so, or thereabouts), watched for the fluid to run out the hole at that temp, then buttoned everything back up and put away the equipment. Very doubtful, unless you requested it or they notated doing it.


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