# 95 200 sx problems



## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

well im new here, i searched all day today and came up with nothing. i just purchased this car today for 800 bills. its in decent shape needs paint, it has 88k miles on it and the inside is clean. here are my problems though. since i am in the honda scene and i am trying to break that nissan vs honda barrier i am headed into this realm also. i know nothing about how these cars work, i have learned a couple of things today but my problems where nowhere. the car is hesitant to start. it is fine after that. i rev it and keep it at 2k (assuming it because the tach is stuck at 9k another problem there) the idle starts to go up and down, in fact it wont go past 2k. when i drive it, in first 10mph, the car starts jerking back and fourth like when it does it stopped reving it at 2k. i switch gears, hit 20 same, shift 3rd 25 does the same, 4th same 5th same, i get up to 45 mph and it cant go higher than that. the previous owner was told it was a short, that his ecu was messed up. i instantly figured it has a vaccum leak, timing is out of wack, any other suggestions where i can look before i start tearing down for a short? i will greatly appreciate your help thanks
julio


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Welcome! Is the check engine light on? Secondly download the FSM from the sticky in this forum, it is the bible to repair your car!


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

no my check engine light is not on, but i dont know if the previous owner unpugged it. also, what could be the reason for my tach to be stuck at 9k?


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## AznBoiBryant (Dec 29, 2004)

urquidezj said:


> no my check engine light is not on, but i dont know if the previous owner unpugged it. also, what could be the reason for my tach to be stuck at 9k?


Stuck at 9k? You mean the needle points at 9k even after the engine is turned off?


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## mille-16i (Jun 16, 2004)

you either have a shit load of little issues or one biggie. I would look at your Idle air control it can cause the unstable idle and if bad enough can cause the run issues the tach sounds like it took a sh*t on you. Dose the check engine light come on when you turn the key to run without starting the car it should all lights should come on it is the factory light dianostics all cars are that way nice to know when shoping for used cars. if it is on then but not on when running that is good if it never turns on that is bad. also which engine is in it the GA16 or SR20. If you can get your hands on a wrecking yard ECU fairly cheap may also swap it in to see what happens.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

well spoke with the guy cuz me and him are cool. he told me that the problem started happeninig after they installed his clutch. my dad was all its a short its a short!. it has a sr20. is there anywya i can fix that tach or have to get a different cluster?


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

check your mass airflow sensor. take it out and look inside. there should be a 2 pices of metal that have a piece of wire in between them. if the wire is missing that is your problem. if you can get to the ecu, it has a service mode. its a little knob that you turn with a flathead screwdriver. turn it to service mode and see if the check engine light works. or if you want to be easy about it, the check engine light should illumintate when the ignition is turned to the foward position. if no light comes on remove the gauge assembly. check the bulb first (its easier for lemon salesman to pull a bulb then cut a wire) then go from there. 

but when i had a nitrous backfire on my 200sx i blew the maf. and i would ask what rpm's it shakes at but you said the tach dont work. i couldnt go past 2k rpm's without it aggresivily shaking. and i couldnt go past 40mph either. i have an extra one. so let me know. the way you can find out is unplug it if it idles rough. it shoudl idle perfect (unpluged) and go ride around. 


i am 99.9 percent sure thats your problem :hal:


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

damn clutch installs too. i had my o2 fucked up after my clutch install. i installed a new o2 sensor and its still throwing a check engine code. i reset the ecu and everything. i dont know whats wrong with it yet. but i am tired of messing with the car. i burned a brand new clutch down do smoke with a 75 shot. my kill list was a brand new stock 350z and a bolt on ls swapped 92 civic hatch. the ga16de strikes again. right now aawaiting the funds to purchase a fidanza flywheel and stage 3 clutch.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

yes, the rpm needle is at 9k all the time everything else works fine though


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

urquidezj said:


> yes, the rpm needle is at 9k all the time everything else works fine though


you missed my whole point. do you wanna fix your car? check your mass air flow sensor now!! lol forget the whole tach thing. let me know if you need a maf sensor but unplug it and see what happens.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

turbo200sx said:


> you missed my whole point. do you wanna fix your car? check your mass air flow sensor now!! lol forget the whole tach thing. let me know if you need a maf sensor but unplug it and see what happens.



He should check the CEL first and see if it works, and if not fix it an pull the codes. Then he's not just guessing. And also your suggestion for looking at the element is NOT the proper way to check it. It should be checked with a multimeter to make sure the voltage is within spec. Visual inspections are just guesses that don't actually tell you weather or not something is functioning properly.


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

true, but he said his cel's are not showing up and he has suspisions of the check engine light being tampered with. the visual inspection i described will elt you know if its broke. if thats missing the sensor is not functioning. you can unplug it too to test it real quick. given his description of the problem i am guessing he doesnt have alot of mechanical skills so i gave a quick fix solution he could understand. i know how to use a multimeter and check cel's if i wanted to. i didnt think he could. not everyone is a mechanic. so thats why i told him to do that. 


***note***
my car did the exact same thing he described. i had to replace the map. all my vacuums came unplugged, i replaced all vacuums and the problem persisted i then looked into the maf. at the time the ecu wasnt throwing any cel's. it allowed my car to run in that condition for at least 2 days. after the problem was located the cel came up. dont ask me why but it did.


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

also some visual inspections render useful. have you done all the work on your car? or do you let shops do it? if you dont do it yourself its easy to "talk like you know" but i have torn down many of hondas, acura's and chevrolets. i built my own ls/vtec engine in my 2000 converted integra type r. i know how to do alot. i have seen your smart ass remarks all over this board. telling people to "search" and do reaserch. giving attitude to newb's and shit. try and really help and stop trying to act like you know everything just cause you are sponsored. i have torn down my 200sx already and put it back together. i have had alot of experience with it already. i have not even owned it but a year. i just sold my integra and am looking into making this ga16de a monster to be delt with. but i know the car from the ground up as we speak. so unless you wanna help stop rediculing people and get the fuck on... :loser:


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

turbo200sx said:


> also some visual inspections render useful. have you done all the work on your car? or do you let shops do it? if you dont do it yourself its easy to "talk like you know" but i have torn down many of hondas, acura's and chevrolets. i built my own ls/vtec engine in my 2000 converted integra type r. i know how to do alot. i have seen your smart ass remarks all over this board. telling people to "search" and do reaserch. giving attitude to newb's and shit. try and really help and stop trying to act like you know everything just cause you are sponsored. i have torn down my 200sx already and put it back together. i have had alot of experience with it already. i have not even owned it but a year. i just sold my integra and am looking into making this ga16de a monster to be delt with. but i know the car from the ground up as we speak. so unless you wanna help stop rediculing people and get the fuck on... :loser:


WHOA try decalf bro. Honestly I understand why you told him to do what you did. I just was trying to follw up and state that a visual inspection of an electrical component is not extremely useful although in this case will tell you if the element is broken. In fact the ideas you gave him were all good. 

Secondly, where do I start. Did you even look at my sig. or what I have PERSONALLY done to my car before you shot off? And I mean EVERY DAMN THING, about the ONLY thing I HAVEN'T done on my car is the welding of the turbo outlet and some other components. Honestly I know the car/motor inside and out, but I do not proclaim to know all. Honestly I HAVE turned the GA16 into a "monster to be dealt with". Look at my car and you'll see what I mean. 

I have also done all the work on ALL of the cars I have owned, S2000, Xterra, Land Rover Freelander, etc..... In fact others bring their cars/motors to me to rebuild and or help with if they need help. I have been in this game a LONG TIME, don't try and call someone out before you research what they have already done!

Not sure if I hit a button with you or something but stop being a dick man and take it EASY...


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

turbo200sx said:


> also some visual inspections render useful. have you done all the work on your car? or do you let shops do it? if you dont do it yourself its easy to "talk like you know" but i have torn down many of hondas, acura's and chevrolets. i built my own ls/vtec engine in my 2000 converted integra type r. i know how to do alot. i have seen your smart ass remarks all over this board. telling people to "search" and do reaserch. giving attitude to newb's and shit. try and really help and stop trying to act like you know everything just cause you are sponsored. i have torn down my 200sx already and put it back together. i have had alot of experience with it already. i have not even owned it but a year. i just sold my integra and am looking into making this ga16de a monster to be delt with. but i know the car from the ground up as we speak. so unless you wanna help stop rediculing people and get the fuck on... :loser:


I think your waaay off base. All over this board, have you really read half of what I have posted? Honestly I post no BS responses that try and either help the problem or point out a solution, and if that involves telling someone to search then guess what, that is what I will post. You are calling out the wrong person pal, I contribute quite a bit around here, including moderating duties. 

Not sure what my car being sponsored has to do with anything but since you brought it up yes it is, and it IS sponsored because I have put in years with this community and spent thousands of dollars pushing the envelope with the GA16, it wasn't until then that I found people who realized that I was contributing before I got ANYTHING from a sponsor. Like I said, take a look around, ask people about my contributions and you'll realize your blowing a whole lot of smoke. 

I have shown/demonstrated what I have put in, now what have you besides calling me a loser? Lets see pics. proof of that turbo 200sx and YOUR WORK....


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

if i hit it wrong i apologize. i just started modding this car like a month ago. i will do all the welding, since i am a certified welder/fabricator. i also owned my own performance shop at the age of 21. worked on many cars. and i will build this turbo kit myself. but i respect your car. i have read your web page about 30 times already and loved the build up. sorry if i was wrong. but dont make me look like i dont know what i am talking about. i was trying to be blunt and helping someone with less skilss.


im a :loser:


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

turbo200sx said:


> if i hit it wrong i apologize. i just started modding this car like a month ago. i will do all the welding, since i am a certified welder/fabricator. i also owned my own performance shop at the age of 21. worked on many cars. and i will build this turbo kit myself. but i respect your car. i have read your web page about 30 times already and loved the build up. sorry if i was wrong. but dont make me look like i dont know what i am talking about. i was trying to be blunt and helping someone with less skilss.
> 
> 
> im a :loser:


See that's the problem I had with it is that I was not trying to make you look like you were wrong, I guess this requires a long winded explanation. My goal in posting what I posted is that while he may have "less skill" he very well may read your post and assume that because he didn't see it broken that it was not the issue. I wanted to make wure that he realized there was more too it than that. Having been here a while I have seen people take things way too literally, as such I try and be as accurate and literal with my information as I can. I have found that if you are not people can be worse off in the end. 

The ending to this is that you assumed I was trying to make you look like a dumbass when in reality was trying to supplment what you told him with what I consider to be sound advice. Please don't take things so personally in the future, i mean it's only the internet for crying out loud! 

Good luck with your buildup.


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

wes said:


> See that's the problem I had with it is that I was not trying to make you look like you were wrong, I guess this requires a long winded explanation. My goal in posting what I posted is that while he may have "less skill" he very well may read your post and assume that because he didn't see it broken that it was not the issue. I wanted to make wure that he realized there was more too it than that. Having been here a while I have seen people take things way too literally, as such I try and be as accurate and literal with my information as I can. I have found that if you are not people can be worse off in the end.
> 
> The ending to this is that you assumed I was trying to make you look like a dumbass when in reality was trying to supplment what you told him with what I consider to be sound advice. Please don't take things so personally in the future, i mean it's only the internet for crying out loud!
> 
> Good luck with your buildup.



its all good!!!!!!!!! we should be arguing with hondas or something... big dumb misunderstanding. sorry dude. :topic: 

so back to helping others fix there cars. sorry man i apologize, but when you are typing it dont show your emotion so when i read it it seemed like......ahhh peace. im out.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

checked MAS little wire was there, idles rough with it plugged in idles rougher when unplugged, im going to take off the cluster to check whats up with the CEL after that ill check the ecu for codes, im not unmechanically skilled, i have had my share of battle with hondas i just didnt want to go about fucking my shit up even more. check back in a while


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

took off cluster cel light was missing while i was there i noticed tach needle is completely lose see what i can make of that stay tooned


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

did you replace the light? at least its going pretty good. now that you have identified the problem with the cel light now you can put the ecu into service mode and read the cel. thats should aim you in the right direction. sounded like the mas. check it with a multimeter like wes said. see what you get (only if you dont get a cel) which i am sure you will. holla back and let us know. my car did the exact same thing you are describing. i replaced the MAF and it runs like a champ.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok i puit it back toghether and cel does not turn on after switch is on, i saw no cut wires or anything so i dont know what is up with that. im gonna check the ecu for codes see it that turns the light on. i dont have a voltmeter so i dont know how im gonna check the mass airflow sensor.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

FYI, auto zone, advance auto, and pep boys all read CEL's for free. go and say "i need my ECU read" and they will walk out to your car with you and plug up a device about the size of a PDA and get ready with a pen and paper to write down any and all codes.

checking maf for voltage is good. if it is "dead" try your hand at cleaning it.......if it works better awsome! if you break it you needed a new one any way 

when you say it will not go above 2k rpm are you talking dead stops at 2k? or will it just get jerky? if it "STOPS" then you are in limp mode and there is a fair chance this could all by remedied by a new MAF. the tach issue sounds like they may not have hooked something back up after the clutch install and the needle just jumped to the peg on the right. make sure the tranny has no unpluged plugs.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok i turned the car on check engine light stays on, im gonna check codes when u say cleaning the MAS can i use carbo cleaner? when the rpm goes up and down it revs puls back revs up pulls back i dont know how to describe it its like a kick back almost


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

urquidezj said:


> ok i turned the car on check engine light stays on, im gonna check codes when u say cleaning the MAS can i use carbo cleaner? when the rpm goes up and down it revs puls back revs up pulls back i dont know how to describe it its like a kick back almost


yes that is limp mode. iirc you use carb cleaner and a Q-tip, spray the cleaner on the Q-tip nice and thick and then very very lightly stroke the sensor wire. BUT ONLY DO THAT AFTER YOU VERIFY THE MAF IS INFACT BAD. because if you bust the maf and it was good i dont want to be the one who made you break it. im just saying if you need a new one anyway why not try?


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

cool. im going to check for codes first and then ill try cleaning it.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok here are my codes: 82= cranckshaft position sensor signal
12=MAS 
13=coolant temp sensor
21= ignition signal
28= overheat condition
41= intake air temp

coolant temp sensor i dont know why if temp is normal. the others im going to check on the handbook


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

urquidezj said:


> *13=coolant temp sensor
> 28= overheat condition*
> coolant temp sensor i dont know why if temp is normal. the others im going to check on the handbook


temp is not normal "28= overheat condition"


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

so what do i do? i took of the airmass sensor and i noticed it has two hot wires, it sais on the manual that there should be one


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok another thing i noticed, the wires to the MAS and intake air temp are bare, not like peeled just not covered in the loom. and i noticed the wires to the mas one is orange one is white and the other one is white with red stripe it is bare for about 3 inched then it has a grey shielded cover on the twowires and one bare silver wire (no plastic around it) have i found my problem?


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

you may have found your problem. first rewire the sensor. but evn though you solve the mas problem you have alot of other issues you need to look into. 

sounds wierd that all those problems occured at once. go down the list fixing what you can then let us know the final results


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

oh and there should be 4 wires going to the MAF. i forgot the colors. and you through a cell for crankshaft position or number 1 cylinder position?


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

well thats the thing i dont know what to wire up. the plug has three wires but four outlets, one white with red stripe, a orange one a white one and a empty slot with a black cap on it. the orange and white wire go togheter into a grey wire but the wire has been torn and a bare wire is in there along with the orange and white one, do i just ground that bare wire? the greay wire or cover that surrounds the orange white and bare wire has sort of like a shield on it like metal or aluminum of some sort. sort of like the material that u find when u are trying to fix regualr tv cable where it connects to the tv. i have no idea what it is called


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok this is what i did, i cleaned MAF taped up the bare wire and everything up real goo. i am a clean wire freak i cant stand rainbows of wire anywhere put everything back fired her up and i let it warm up idles rough still but the rpm thing went away. i can rev it up now i dont know what rpms but i can now. check engine is still on took off air intake temp sensor and cleaned it threw her back on still check engine light. now on to the other codes 82, 13, 21, 28


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok, diagnosed for the crankshaft position sensor, it is completely broken so im gonna have to get a new one. onto the next.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

good work on the maf issues. clean up all your EGR and IACV and that should clear up that rough idle.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

i cant find anything on the colling temp circuits and sensors


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## Twiz (Aug 24, 2004)

You definitely want to check and set the timing and idle speed first... clean the IACV ---> process takes minutes. Check the voltage output on the MAF if you have doubts about it... don't separate the MAF from the TB while engine's running.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

i sorta cleaned iacv because i ran outta carbo cleaner. and the egr, there is two things that look similar which one do i take out? i ran it after i did this today and i was going 90+ mph on it no problem. when i come to a stop it adles really rough like a hot rod. CEL is still on. and i noticed that the engine was rattling when i was driving normal. ive had this problem on my hondas and i take it to get the timing checked and set properly. i had access to a timing light but i had no idea what i was doing, ill have to research some tonight. well thats it for today ill continue on it tommorrow.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

search "timing mode" and also go to www.se-r.net <that will help ALOT.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

i know the procedure to timing a car i just do not understand the dam lines and what line means what degree, i just saw a bunch a white lines all over the place.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

urquidezj said:


> i know the procedure to timing a car i just do not understand the dam lines and what line means what degree, i just saw a bunch a white lines all over the place.


Did you reset the ECU and see if they come back? Now that you have solved the MAF issue you might as well try that. The timign marks are as follows. Starting at the line closest to firewall, -5,0,5,10,15


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

turbo200sx said:


> oh and there should be 4 wires going to the MAF. i forgot the colors. and you through a cell for crankshaft position or number 1 cylinder position?


My MAF sensor has 3 wires going to it, I had to cut the harness and solder in for the upgraded MAF I am running and it def. had 3. Does your car in fact have 4?


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

mine only has 3 wires wite with red stripe, white, orange.


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## turbo200sx (May 9, 2005)

no but it has a 4 plug harness. :crazy:


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

i cleaned iacv and it still idles like a hot rod, very rough irregular goes up and down its weird. what can i check into to troubleshoot?


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

bump!!!!!!!!!!!


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

urquidezj said:


> i cleaned iacv and it still idles like a hot rod, very rough irregular goes up and down its weird. what can i check into to troubleshoot?


try this out. it should help you alot.
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=38146
hope it helps. my 91 se-r has idle issues but its not bad (like you have) mine will only dip really low sometimes to the point of a near stall. but it has only stalled once and i dont have the time right now to fix it/its not my top priority so it will have to stay that way. but atleast you have her out of limp mode! good job!


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

today i took of the egr valve and another valve thats right in front of it. i forget the name has a filter on it but mine is completely gone, can i make my own or do i have to but the filter from somewhere? also the egrva;ve is atteched to that tube that goes to the header? if so i took them off right, found three hoses that where dry-like almost cracking. the one that goes from the egr valve to the one in front of the valve and the bottom one also. replacing those see what happens


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## Kindfiend (Oct 13, 2004)

urquidezj said:


> today i took of the egr valve and another valve thats right in front of it. i forget the name has a filter on it but mine is completely gone, can i make my own or do i have to but the filter from somewhere? also the egrva;ve is atteched to that tube that goes to the header? if so i took them off right, found three hoses that where dry-like almost cracking. the one that goes from the egr valve to the one in front of the valve and the bottom one also. replacing those see what happens


There's your idle problem, vacuum leaks. I'm in the process of hunting mine down as well. They can be hard to find sometimes. When I got my car, several lines were completely missing! Fun times, finding out where they ran to...


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

i know they are a bitch to find. today i cleaned out the two valves, the one in front of egrvalve and egr valve got new hoses and am just going to go ahead and replace every freaking hose in there. i cleaned them with carbo cleaner. the smaller valve(with the missing filter) was dirty inside, i ran carbo cleaner through it until the liquid turned clear. im gonna make a filter for it tommorrow. the egr valve was weird, i was soaking it with carbo cleaner and all of a sudden something snapped inside it, not a brake snap but more of a close snap. ran carbo clean on that till liquid turned clear. i got the air hose and dried them good. now for inspections. egr valvle has a rubber "balloon" type thing in there that creates the suction to lift or open the valve. i noticed that it had a small hole in it or rupture i should say. i tested it with those pressure gauges and it was at 40 psi. no air came out from the little hole, but just to be safe i put a dab of silicone on it. i did the same test with the pressure thing on the smaller valve and a little spring inside it compresses so i guess its fine. im going to let the silicone cure install it tommorrow and ill check back to let you guys know the result.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

installed everything yesterday and it dled fine for like 5minutes, util it reached temp then the hodrod idling began what the hell does this car have? im checking sprk plugs right now and they are rust-like color on the tip i dont know if thats bad or what.


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

ok, checked spark plugs, checked gap on em and it was set at .050 inches, i checked manual and it said .035, gapped all of them fired it up was fina again until it reached temp. my little bro tells me that it will continue like that until i replace the broken crank position senor, does that sensor have anything to do with idling issues?


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

bump!!!!!!


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## urquidezj (Jul 4, 2005)

checked my ecu codes again and it only throws a 82 crank position sensor. get that fixed and im gonna get a full tuneup see if that fixes my hotrod idle


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## thestunts200sx (Jul 11, 2005)

urquidezj said:


> checked my ecu codes again and it only throws a 82 crank position sensor. get that fixed and im gonna get a full tuneup see if that fixes my hotrod idle


Replace your O2 sensors and MAF.

If either of those are getting bad or no readings, itll cause your car to die, when in idle or while standing still at a parking lot.

02 sensors are fairly cheap and easy to install....
Your MAF may cost more depending on where you get it....but pull it out and check if the diode inside is fried or not.


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