# speedometer not working?



## 96sen (Jul 19, 2007)

my speedometer works sometimes and sometimes it doesnt. allso the tripmeter doesnt work when the speedometer doesnt work. could it it the speed sensoer?


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## PTXer (Aug 31, 2006)

Having problems with my 97 speedo too. If you search through this forum you'll see that there are a few things it could be. Some have reported wear in the gear of the sensor at the transmission, others a problem with the speedometer itself, and some a wiring problem. There are some steps to narrow it down, but you'll have to search for them. I haven't had the time to work on mine. I think mine is a gauge problem since if its not working and I'm going 40-60mph I can bang on the gage cluster and it will start working again. It is also very peculiar that if the speedo is not working, the auto transmission will not shift into overdrive. Again with some searching I found some schematics as far as the sensor, speedo, and computer that could help me with my answer, but not enough time to spend on it. Is yours an auto and does it do the same as mine?


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## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

well i have the same problem and my car iluminated the MIL so i pulled the codes and it was the vss, its not compleatly bad yet but its going there


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## stavid (Aug 16, 2004)

Had a similar prob on a 99 Sentra GXE. Changed the gage cluster and it fixed the problem.


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## black200 (Nov 15, 2007)

My 96 200SX SE-R's speedometer quits working when it is really damp or raining. I changed the VSS after I checked the instument cluster but that wasn't the problem. I have to check the wiring. When it quits working for a while I get codes for the VSS and the knock sensor. 

Does anyone know what is causing this problem?


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## videojack (Jul 17, 2011)

Looks like I'm in the same boat with PTXer and Burn 17.
Except, I replaced my VSS and that went quite smoothly, but did not chang a thing. the electrical connecto appeared to be just fine, the replacement was an exact match. And, I am experiencing the intemittent results and have been for a couple weeks. 

What I have not done is smack the dash, which I will try when my wife get home with the Altima. I has 160,xxx miles and is running great otherwise. If it needs a new speedo, then so be it. 

Stay tuned for the next phase and thanks for showing me the way guys!


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## videojack (Jul 17, 2011)

*Clean the connections for success!*

I had some time before I got a chance to smack the dash board and thought about all that fix would imply. Then, as a vintage motorcycle restorer, remembered that dirty contact/connections were probably to blame.

Since the instrument cluster shroud only required the removal of two screws and the instrument cluster itself only required four more, I decided to remove the cluster (just like I would have if I had bought a replacement either new or used unit) and inspected it for obvious issues and found none.

Then, I simply replaced the four multi-connectors that send signals into the cluster and rested the cluster back into place. I drove down the road and ta-da!. Simply removing the connectors and replacing then caused the two metal components to rub against each other and "clean the contact points".

After proving that was the problem, I took a few surgical Q-tips and some P.B. Blaster and cleaned the contacts on both the connector plugs and receiver points on the back of the cluster. That should hold for the next 150,000 miles.

Thanks to all above for your help pointing me in the right direction.

Jack


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## Treads (Sep 8, 2008)

*Speedo problems*

I realize that this is about 1 year after your post. I just got the 95 Altima for my son, (firdt time driver). It is in pretty good shape, and has 166k. The speedo worked fine when we first got it. Now it either works, or doesn't. It seems to work after it warms up a little, and stays working fine. When it is cold, it sticks at zero. Also noticed the speed control doesn't work when the speedo doesn't work, which makes sense. Also changed the speed control sensor, seemed like the easiest thing to do first. No difference. the other thing I did was plug in a reader in the OBDII port. It has the ability to read mph. It also doesn't work when the speedo isn't working. This is telling me there is no signal comming from the ECM. Could this still possibility be fixed be cleaning the contacts like you did? Thank you for any help or suggestions.


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

Treads said:


> This is telling me there is no signal comming from the ECM. Could this still possibility be fixed be cleaning the contacts like you did? Thank you for any help or suggestions.


Your wording make me wonder how you understand the signal's routing. the signal comes from the vehicle speed sensor and goes through the instrument cluster to the ECM. that's why you get no signal when you disconnect the cluster.

This problem is relatively common, it seems. most don't have it, but several do. I've been dealing with this one for the last 4 years. I've replaced the VSS as well as the cluster. I still have the problem. mine is in the wiring, so I get to do some more electrical surgery and try seeing if a bypass wire from the sensor directly to the ECM will fix my woes. My speedometer never cuts out, but this problem is making my cruise control inoperable. i digress...

it's definitely worth a try, cleaning the contacts. there are two inputs from the sensor into the speedometer. those are your most likely culprits. look through a wiring diagram to find which they are. I would tell you, but you're asking about an altima on a sentra thread, and it's likely different for you.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan had a lot of problems with P0500 VSS codes being set and/or erratic speedometer operation during the mid-90's, especially in Sentras, trucks and Pathfinders, but would also occassionally pop up in a Maxima or Altima. The problem was, in most cases, the speedo head unit, itself, and not the vehicle speed sensor. There are screws at the back of the cluster that go through the printed circuit and back of the case and thread into the brass threaded inserts of the speedo head unit. These brass inserts would develope cracks and poor continuity through the printed circuit would occur. In most cases, the screws could be tightened slightly and correct the issue temporarily, but the correct fix is to replace the speedo head unit.


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## Treads (Sep 8, 2008)

The problem only seems to happen when the car is cold. After driving for a few minutes, the speedo and cruise control work fine, and they stay working, they are not erradic. After the car cools down, everything stops again. It is not throwing any codes, and the reader is showing the mph when the speedo is working, zero when it is not. Could this be because the signal is stopping at the speedo head and not getting to the ECM?


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

The answer to your last question is two posts up from yours. I'll repost it for your convenience.


Jdoggsc said:


> Your wording make me wonder how you understand the signal's routing. the signal comes from the vehicle speed sensor and goes through the instrument cluster to the ECM. that's why you get no signal when you disconnect the cluster.
> 
> This problem is relatively common, it seems. most don't have it, but several do. I've been dealing with this one for the last 4 years. I've replaced the VSS as well as the cluster. I still have the problem. mine is in the wiring, so I get to do some more electrical surgery and try seeing if a bypass wire from the sensor directly to the ECM will fix my woes. My speedometer never cuts out, but this problem is making my cruise control inoperable. i digress...
> 
> it's definitely worth a try, cleaning the contacts. there are two inputs from the sensor into the speedometer. those are your most likely culprits. look through a wiring diagram to find which they are. I would tell you, but you're asking about an altima on a sentra thread, and it's likely different for you.


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## Treads (Sep 8, 2008)

*Success*

I pulled the instrument cluster out, then unplugged everything. First, I slightly loosened and then re-tightened all af the screws. I then sprayed PBJ in all of the sockets and plugs. Reassembled, and it works like a charm. I can't remember where I saw the post suggesting to do this, but thank you. Didn't cost me a dime, and I am retired, so I have plenty of time. The only problem I had was that a small ammount of PBJ leaked on to the faceplate of the tach, but I can live with that. Next step is to fin out why my mpg is so bad. Thanks to everyone who responded.

Treads


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## B14U97 (May 25, 2012)

smj999smj said:


> Nissan had a lot of problems with P0500 VSS codes being set and/or erratic speedometer operation during the mid-90's, especially in Sentras, trucks and Pathfinders, but would also occassionally pop up in a Maxima or Altima. The problem was, in most cases, the speedo head unit, itself, and not the vehicle speed sensor. There are screws at the back of the cluster that go through the printed circuit and back of the case and thread into the brass threaded inserts of the speedo head unit. These brass inserts would develope cracks and poor continuity through the printed circuit would occur. In most cases, the screws could be tightened slightly and correct the issue temporarily, but the correct fix is to replace the speedo head unit.


:thumbup: this worked for me


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

i'm resisting replacing the head unit in mine because I don't want to have inaccurate miles on the odometer. I'd rather have the signal bypass the speedometer and go directly to the ECU. I tried it today, but only met confusion.
The speed sensor is a 2-wire speed sensor, with both wires going into the speedometer. There are two other screws--one is the output to the ECU (1 wire) and the other leads back to an electrical contact labeled IGN.

Calling all Electrical Engineers (or anyone else who understands this):
When bypassing the speedometer, and connecting the ECU directly to the speed sensor high signal (red/yellow) the ECU thinks i'm going ~100 mph when i'm really going 30. since the speed is determined by the frequency of the pulses, then why does the ECU think i'm going so fast? does the speedometer eliminate 1/3 of the pulses coming from the speed sensor?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If you order the speedometer head through Nissan, they will pre-program the mileage for so your odometer will read the correct mileage (+/- a few miles, depending upon how much you drive it between ordering the part and installing it).

You cannot bypass the speedometer head and go directly to the ECM. The speed sensor generates and AC voltage signal to the head unit and the head unit converts it and sends a signal to the ECM.


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

smj999smj said:


> If you order the speedometer head through Nissan, they will pre-program the mileage for so your odometer will read the correct mileage (+/- a few miles, depending upon how much you drive it between ordering the part and installing it).
> 
> You cannot bypass the speedometer head and go directly to the ECM. The speed sensor generates and AC voltage signal to the head unit and the head unit converts it and sends a signal to the ECM.


yes, i realize that. But it is surprising to me, since aftermarket ECMs can take hall effect sensor signals directly. Nissan could have used the raw signal, i believe, if they calibrated the ECM to receive it, but they chose to put their effort into conditioning the signal with the gauge instead.

I guess in asking that, I was hoping for a bit more technical discussion than "The speed sensor generates an AC voltage signal to the head unit and the head unit converts it and sends a signal to the ECM."


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I guess they could have...but that's the way they did. There are a lot of times I wonder why auto engineers didn't do something differently. Personally, I don't really see a need to re-engineer something as simple as a faulty speedo head. A lot easier to just order a new one and install it....but maybe that's just me!


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

haha, i guess easy wasn't really what I was going for. I was going for interesting, yet inexpensive. mostly driven by the inexpensive factor. But then again, buying a new car altogether would usually be easier.


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## tomraedisk (Nov 17, 2012)

I had the same issue with my 95 200sx. All i had to do was reflow the solder on the Spedo connection points on the board about a 5 min fix


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

tomraedisk said:


> I had the same issue with my 95 200sx. All i had to do was reflow the solder on the Spedo connection points on the board about a 5 min fix


by Speedo connection points, you're referring to where the mounting screw holes interface with the circuit board? did you just melt solder and drip it into the threaded hole? It's been a few months since i last saw it, but there didn't look to be anything easily reachable with a soldering iron where there might be a cracked/brittle connection.

Please, can you describe in a little more detail where you applied your solder?


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## tomraedisk (Nov 17, 2012)

its been a while since i last looked at it so the details are a little fuzzy. but from what i can remember there are like 3 flat pieces of metal that comes though board that are solder to the board and you could see cracks on them. i re-flowed them and added some solder to them to make it nice and solid i would almost have to pull it out and describe it or try and find a picture of it.


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## tomraedisk (Nov 17, 2012)

okay sorry for the second post i just looked a pic up. you have to take all the screws out then separate the front and the back to where you can get to the spedo it self. there is the part i had to solder, should be a board right on the back of it that the part screw into. you can follow the traces from the screws to the points where they need to be soldered


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

tomraedisk said:


> okay sorry for the second post i just looked a pic up. you have to take all the screws out then separate the front and the back to where you can get to the spedo it self. there is the part i had to solder, should be a board right on the back of it that the part screw into. you can follow the traces from the screws to the points where they need to be soldered


ok. My speedo has fits for a while, then i go several months with no problems, then it happens all the time.

Since it's in and not being problematic, I'm going to not mess with it, but when it starts being problematic again (which it will) I will reference this thread, search for what you described, solder it, and share my results.

Thanks for the info.


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

*here we go again....*

Ok folks, it happened again. After a 6-month reprieve, my speedo is back to its usual antics. Following the suggestions posted by tomraedisk, Here's what I did.

Here's my speedometer









I first tried to separate the circuitboard as follows, but soon realized there are 4 soldered pins that are holding it down.









Here are the pins. The must be desoldered. without a solder vacuum, it's tricky,









finally got it off. Those 4 flat pieces are the pieces that tomraedisk was talking about.









I reflowed the solder and added some more to make sure there was a solid connection. It didn't look like there was _any_ cracking at all--every solder point looks very good.











Here's to hoping it's fixed. Only a drive (or several) will truly tell. If it's not fixed after this, then I don't know what else to do except buy one from a dealership, which I've very strongly been resisting.


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## tomraedisk (Nov 17, 2012)

You went a bit further then i did. I could see very small hairline cracks in it. Would almost need a magnifier to see them clearly. I just heated up the solder to re-flow it and added some to it. I hope it works for you.


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Jdoggsc said:


> I reflowed the solder and added some more to make sure there was a solid connection. It didn't look like there was _any_ cracking at all--every solder point looks very good.


Just going to throw this out there, because soldering is "my bag"...has been for X number of years, all sorts of training, blah blah blah (this is the part where I get up on my high horse...but I'm afraid of heights  )

More solder, or more correctly, a big ol' blob of good looking solder on a joint isn't necessarily a good thing.
The solder cools and hardens quickly on the outside, but the stuff on the inside is still hot and liquid, and unknown to you, or anybody else without an X-ray machine (or whatever high tech equipment you wanna throw in there), the liquid stuff left over on the inside cools and contracts more slowly, ends up basically crumbling, and eventually, you end up where you were.

Best bet...suck the old solder off, wick it, vacuum it, shake it, whatever, put new solder on, just enough, not too much, etc.etc.etc...


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## TIFINNII (Apr 12, 2014)

I'm having the same issue with my 91 Infiniti. The board is a little different. I was thinking that tightening the screws that join the Blue and Green circles may help based on smj999smj post. 

I circled the points where the speedo head links in the board which is where I'm guessing needs to be resoldered. 

Could this be a possibility with the 1991 Infiniti M30 too?


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## Jdoggsc (Dec 25, 2007)

It's definitely worth a shot!

Since Infiniti is Nissan's luxury brand, it makes sense that our Nissans are set up very similarly to how yours was several years earlier. The speedo unit is probably the same or similar, meaning the fix could be the same


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## Rosso (Jul 15, 2014)

Hi I have a Nissan pulsar 1998 and I connected the battery the wrong way around, and now I have no wipers and speedo, indercators ect. I've checked the fuses and there all good, what could it be,
Regards
Simon


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## electron (Aug 3, 2014)

*reversed battery?*

All sorts of major problems could easily have been caused by a reversed battery. If other things seem to work still, (now the battery is CORRECTLY connected), I would first look at the obvious, and check fuses. Then look at a wiring diagram and see what is in common with the majority of the items that do not work. Make various voltage measurements etc, check fusible links, and just go through a slow and methodical trouble-shooting process to identify what may have happened with the reversed battery.

One more thing... if battery connectors were being cut off and replaced from the original factory battery harnesses... Make sure all the wires actually got put back with the correct battery connector. Some may have been left out, swapped to the wrong post, or possibly just not have a good connection with the new connector.


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## electron (Aug 3, 2014)

*Where I soldered...*



tomraedisk said:


> okay sorry for the second post i just looked a pic up. you have to take all the screws out then separate the front and the back to where you can get to the spedo it self. there is the part i had to solder, should be a board right on the back of it that the part screw into. you can follow the traces from the screws to the points where they need to be soldered


 First... thanks to Jdoggsc for the original picture I edited for this post... 

My 1996 200SX has also had the intermittent speedometer for years now. It has gotten progressively worse over time. In my case a light tapping on the speedometer area of the cluster would get it to work. Later I ended up needing to wiggle the trip odometer reset button side to side. Later I ended up resorting to pressing the trip reset, and letting it flick back out with as much of a shock as possible... I always suspected a bad solder joint, but just did not make myself look into it any further till last week.

I took out the instrument cluster and found the 4 screws for the speedometer loose, which could easily have given the symptoms. I placed the cluster back in place without fully mounting it, and drove a couple days and I thought it may actually be fixed... then it happened again. Today I took it all out again, and removed the speedometer from the cluster and found cold solder joints on THREE of the four solder connections that electrically connect the screw mounts to the circuit board traces. I re-touched all four connections, (marked with red circles) and put it back together again. I just dove it about 30 miles, and will see if it is really fixed or not. I expect it will be goo to go now with how the solder connections looked, but my eyesight is not quite as good as it used to be, so I was not able to actually see if there were fractures in the solder, or not.


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## electron (Aug 3, 2014)

UPDATE - Looks like the soldering fixed mine! For years now, I have not been able to drive 15 minutes without the speedometer stopping operation. Now many hours of driving later, 800 miles, 7 days, 42 MPG. not a single glitch! Working GREAT!  Even tried to make it act up by wiggling my speedometer with the trip odometer reset button, and tapping the instrument cluster, which in the past could make the problem come and go. No more problems noted.


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## 98Frontier4WD (Jan 12, 2015)

My experience corroborates with the conclusions of "Jdoggsc" and "electron" about degraded solder joints posts #25 and #32 above.

Speedometer on my ’98 Frontier 4WD had started malfunctioning. It was showing much lower speed at low velocities (eg. showed 15mph when doing 30mph) and then it was showing higher speed at highway velocities (eg. showed 75mph when doing 60mph). Only the speedometer was malfunctioning, all other gauges, tachometer, temperature, fuel level seemed ok. I noticed that when I banged my fist on the dashboard, the speedometer would go to the correct speed, sometimes staying at the correct speed for a minute or so before malfunctioning again. That pointed more to a local instrument panel issue rather than a malfunction on the distant velocity sending unit at the transmission. So I decided not to test the VSS, and to take out the instrument panel as suggested in this thread.

In my first attempt to fix the problem I first cleaned the speedometer connector contacts and also re-soldered the contacts in the back only, as shown in this thread:
http://www.nissanforums.com/frontier/111338-98-frontier-speedometer-troubles-2.html
See post by #21 by iamedelmann mentioned in post #21

But that did not do it for me. The speedometer was malfunctioning in exactly the same way. 

So then I made a second attempt (had to take the instrument panel apart again) and went ahead and re-soldered almost all the contacts on the board, including the 4 contacts that Jdoggsc has circled in red in the third photo. See post #25 by Jdoggsc 3rd photo in this thread.

Unlike Jdoggsc, I did not de-solder the 4 contacts to separate the speedometer from its circuit. I just re-soldered the contacts in place. I could not de-solder them because I did not have a solder vacuum. So I just heated up almost all the connections with a soldering iron and added a little bit of fresh solder. The solder paste in the new solder typically helps reestablish a healthy connection. But be careful not to put too much new solder or you end up shorting contacts together, which will definitively make things worse. If you do pour too much solder and contacts join, as happened to me a couple of times, just shake off all solder from the soldering iron, re-melt and try to remove some solder until things look ok (I used a traditional soldering iron, things may be easier with a more sophisticated soldering iron). I did NOT re-solder the IC connections because they were too small and too cramped together to redo with a big soldering iron. 

Oh yes, I also re-soldered the few connections on the bigger flexible printed circuit that is in the back of the whole instrument panel. See 
http://www.nissanforums.com/frontier/111338-98-frontier-speedometer-troubles-2.html
See post by #21 by iamedelmann photos 1 and 2

In any case, these re-solderings fixed the problem for me. For now. We have to see if it lasts. I’ll post the results in a few days.

Regardless of the final outcome thanks to all the posters who took the time to create these threads and give me some ideas. I would have not attempted fixing this without reading these threads. 

BTW, to take the instrument panel out on ‘98 Frontier you can watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-NZFo-4Gk8
It’s easy, just take out the outer grey panel (two screws at the bottom, one by the fuse box, another by the handbreak handle) plus two clips at the top (hard to get it past the handbrake lever but doable). Then take out the inner black panel around the instruments (4 screws) and then 4 screws hold the instrument panel. You pull the instrument panel half way out, at which point you have to disconnect the three connectors in the back before you pull out the panel any further (wires are short)

One final note: To resolder the connections on the small solid printed circuit on the back of the speedometer, you have to take the speedometer out of the instrument panel. To do that, you have to disconnect the flexible printed circuit connector from the speedometer (this small connector is inside the instrument panel, NOT the three connectors in the back of the panel). I found that to be a little tricky. You can pull the plastic black connector out a bit, but then I had to insert a very small screwdriver on the sides of the connector to lift the tabs and completely separate it. It is equally tricky to put it back together. These types of connectors seem to simply pinch the connections on the flexible printed circuit board to make contact. Holding the wire in and at the same time closing the connector seemed tricky, but with some practice, I think, eventually you get it done.


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## bobthemoron (Jul 9, 2015)

2001 Pathfinder---Cruise Control works, Overdrive works, Odometer works BUT Speedometer is stuck at 25 mph. Any ideas?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

bobthemoron said:


> 2001 Pathfinder---Cruise Control works, Overdrive works, Odometer works BUT Speedometer is stuck at 25 mph. Any ideas?


Post in the Pathfinder forum subsection?


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## BK5 (Oct 20, 2015)

Did you ever figure out your Nissan speedometer issue?
It sounds exactly like what is happening to ours.
Anytime I've taken it into the shop for other things, they can never get it to reproduce the issue.
Thanks!
-Brian
[email protected]


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

BK5 said:


> Did you ever figure out your Nissan speedometer issue?
> It sounds exactly like what is happening to ours.
> Anytime I've taken it into the shop for other things, they can never get it to reproduce the issue.
> Thanks!
> ...


If it's a B14, it's a fairly common problem due to cracks developing in the threads of the speedometer head where the bolts screw into from the back of the cluster, which cause a poor contact with the printed circuit. Remove the cluster and tighten up the bolts and see if the condition improves. If so, that's likely your issue and replacing the speedometer head unit will correct it.


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## Sarod (Feb 19, 2016)

I just bought a 2009 altima s the following day I was driving down the highway and happened to look down at the dash speedometer said I was going 25 I was prob goin 65 and rpm said 500 . When I shut the car off both speedometer and tachometer needles drop way below zero ? I also thing the temperature gauge is not working too ? Anyone else heard of this?


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## hugho'daly (Jun 23, 2016)

*nissan sunny 1994 1.4 speedotransducer .*

Am after a new or used one. Can anyone sell me one .web [email protected]


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sarod said:


> I just bought a 2009 altima s the following day I was driving down the highway and happened to look down at the dash speedometer said I was going 25 I was prob goin 65 and rpm said 500 . When I shut the car off both speedometer and tachometer needles drop way below zero ? I also thing the temperature gauge is not working too ? Anyone else heard of this?


Usually it's a faulty integrated meter assy, aka instrument cluster. The typical fix is to remove the cluster and send it out to get repaired.


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## Spinoza (Aug 27, 2016)

Visited this site a couple of years ago and learned (thanks!) that the P0500 error code on my 1996 SX200 SE-R was not due to a faulty VSS, but to something electrical between the instrument cluster and ECM (the speedometer reading was spot on, just no cruise control). I loosened/retightened all screws on the back of the cluster after hitting these with Deoxit. Solved the problem until the error code reappeared just before the most recent mandated emissions test. (Failed the test, so I've got just a short extension to fix this.)

The tech at the local Nissan dealership confirmed that the VSS was okay, as was the signal from the VSS to the cluster. The problem was bad output voltage to the ECM (4.6 volts rather than 1.8-2.8). I was told that the the instrument cluster was no longer available either from Nissan or from a local salvage yard. When I returned to the dealership with printouts from an Internet search that a replacement Nissan speedometer head (part# 2482) was available elsewhere, I was told that this probably wouldn't solve the problem. It struck me that there might be some confusing overlap in terminology between "instrument cluster" and "speedometer head."

First question: Is the "speedometer head" a self-contained unit that sends the signal to the ECM (in which case replacing this part will solve the problem) or is the more broadly defined "instrument cluster" (i.e., the entire panel in the dashboard) somehow involved in the signal path (in which case no replacement apparently is available).

Second: If (hopefully) the former is the case, is this a reasonably simple repair, involving a few screws to swap in the replacement part? In which case, will the car's mileage be restored from the ECM, or must this be done by the dealership?

Thanks!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Spinoza said:


> Visited this site a couple of years ago and learned (thanks!) that the P0500 error code on my 1996 SX200 SE-R was not due to a faulty VSS, but to something electrical between the instrument cluster and ECM (the speedometer reading was spot on, just no cruise control). I loosened/retightened all screws on the back of the cluster after hitting these with Deoxit. Solved the problem until the error code reappeared just before the most recent mandated emissions test. (Failed the test, so I've got just a short extension to fix this.)
> 
> The tech at the local Nissan dealership confirmed that the VSS was okay, as was the signal from the VSS to the cluster. The problem was bad output voltage to the ECM (4.6 volts rather than 1.8-2.8). I was told that the the instrument cluster was no longer available either from Nissan or from a local salvage yard. When I returned to the dealership with printouts from an Internet search that a replacement Nissan speedometer head (part# 2482) was available elsewhere, I was told that this probably wouldn't solve the problem. It struck me that there might be some confusing overlap in terminology between "instrument cluster" and "speedometer head."
> 
> ...


It all depends on what year/model vehicle we are talking about. Older Nissans, like the B14, have an instrument cluster which can be taken apart to replace the speedometer head and/or gauges. Later Nissans have an integrated meter assembly, so the instrument cluster is serviced as an assembly. Referring back to the B14 speedometer head, it receives an A/C voltage signal from the vehicle speed sensor and converts it and in turn relays that info to the ECM. If you were to purchase a new speedo head from Nissan (if it's still available), it would come with the mileage of your vehicle pre-programmed (you supply the information when ordering it). If you were to purchase a used speedometer head from a salvage yard, it would state whatever mileage was on the vehicle it came out of. If you have a lot of patience, one can disassemble the used head and change the reading, but it's tricky and easiest if you program a number with as many "zeros" as possible. There are many places that repair speedometer heads and clusters, like Circuit Board Medics and R.T. Grim. 
The common issue with mid-to-late 90s Nissan speedometer heads is that the threads on the back side of the head can develop small cracks. This causes the bolts that secure the speedo head to the back of the cluster, as well as create the electrical connection between the speedo head and the printed circuit of the cluster, to loosen up and create a poor contact; this is why tightening the four bolts that secure the speedo head to the back of the cluster often fixes the problem, at least for a little while.


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## dinfotech (Mar 28, 2017)

*Solution*



PTXer said:


> Having problems with my 97 speedo too. If you search through this forum you'll see that there are a few things it could be. Some have reported wear in the gear of the sensor at the transmission, others a problem with the speedometer itself, and some a wiring problem. There are some steps to narrow it down, but you'll have to search for them. I haven't had the time to work on mine. I think mine is a gauge problem since if its not working and I'm going 40-60mph I can bang on the gage cluster and it will start working again. It is also very peculiar that if the speedo is not working, the auto transmission will not shift into overdrive. Again with some searching I found some schematics as far as the sensor, speedo, and computer that could help me with my answer, but not enough time to spend on it. Is yours an auto and does it do the same as mine?


I believe that the gauge cluster is the main problem for why the speedometer or the tachometer gauge is not working properly. The cause is the grounding screw is either lose or not meeting in contact with the electronic stripes on the gauge cluster.I have a 97 maxima gle going through with the same problems, I think if you open the gauge cluster tighten the screw and use soldiering technique that will resolve the problem. Especially if you get a P0500 trouble code on which seems to indicate that the speed sensor is not working properly.


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## dinfotech (Mar 28, 2017)

96sen said:


> my speedometer works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. also the trip meter doesn't work when the speedometer doesn't work. could it it the speed sensor?


In most cases it can be the speed senor but if the speedometer or tachometer works sometimes then the problem is the gauge cluster.


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