# 2005 Altima Electrical Issues



## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Hello all,

I'd greatly appreciate some help with this one. The other day my Altima wouldn't start due to an almost dead battery. All of the electronics worked, but it just couldn't quite turn over. After a jump the car ran fine. Two days later I'm driving down the road and notice my Cruise Control light isn't on. I hit the button a few times, but no dice. Then I notice my tac is at zero...even though I'm going 70mph. Huh. Well, after a few seconds it jumps up to 3k rpm, where it should be, and then quickly plummets. It happens again and again, and I notice that the cruise control light is coming on in the same interval. It's as if there's someone behind my dash flicking a switch to turn these two things off and on randomly.

I get to work and park, and when I'm walking away from my car and hit the lock button, I notice that the horn doesn't beep, implying that the security system hasn't activated. I tried all the doors to ensure that they were closed, but it just won't activate the security. The brake lights blink twice and no horn. At this point I'm worried that something really weird electronically is going on.

After work I go out to my car, and it has started to rain. It starts up, but neither my windshield wipers nor my high beams work. The regular headlights and wiper fluid pump work just fine, though. Weird! Then the car died, and the battery couldn't turn the engine over. I called my friend to pick me up and left my car at work.

I don't believe it's a bad battery, as I would think everything electrical would either work or it wouldn't. It sounds like there's a messed up relay somewhere, but heck if I know what would effect just those devices specifically. Plus, my buddy put a multimeter on the battery, and it was giving the correct steady voltage.

Here's a list of what's not working:


Cruise Control light (actual cruise control works, just no light)
Tachometer (sticks at zero, but pops up every once in a while)
Windshield wipers
High beams
Battery (I think this is a symptom, not a cause; something seems to be draining it)

Here's what _is_ working:

Rest of gauge cluster (orange backlight, red needle lights, speedometer, info LCD, etc)
Radio
Wiper fluid pump
Headlights
Turn signals

Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting? Is there a relay somewhere that sounds like it would effect these specific parts? Thanks in advance!


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Sounds like you have some loose wiring somewhere. Maybe check behind your guage cluster. Check your fuses, make sure they are fine and all seated properly. Also could be a bad relay as you said, kinda working half-assed, you'll probably have to lift them off from the relay box and check those - I'm not familiar with the specific layout of your electrical system so you'll have to try to locate those yourself or maybe someone with your car can assist you better.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Thanks for the help, Faja. Do you know if there would be another fuse/relay hub anywhere other than under the hood and right inside the driver's side door? We checked most of these and everything seemed ok. We'll be more thorough, but the car's half an hour away, so I want to head over there with a pretty good idea of what's up.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Those are the 2 most likely places they would be. If you said you checked those, then I would see if there is a loose wire or harness connector - mostly likely at the guage.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Alright, thanks. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, again.


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## Nickaltima (Jan 11, 2008)

most electronics will still work if the battery is to dead to start the car..id get a battery its only 60 bucks if it dsnt fix it but if it died to the point of needing a jump start then its not healthy(unless you left something on to drain it) id try that


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Nickaltima said:


> most electronics will still work if the battery is to dead to start the car..id get a battery its only 60 bucks if it dsnt fix it but if it died to the point of needing a jump start then its not healthy(unless you left something on to drain it) id try that


We didn't have a chance to check the fuses/relays today, but when we went to get my car it started right up. I'm still getting the weird issues, but mechanically the car is running fine. It shouldn't be the battery.


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## Nickaltima (Jan 11, 2008)

rickatnight11 said:


> We didn't have a chance to check the fuses/relays today, but when we went to get my car it started right up. I'm still getting the weird issues, but mechanically the car is running fine. It shouldn't be the battery.


fuses and relays either work or they dont work there is NO gray area


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Nickaltima said:


> fuses and relays either work or they dont work there is NO gray area


That's how I felt about the fuses, but I wasn't sure about the relays. What do you think could be causing this, then?


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

I pulled the instrument cluster out, but I don't notice anything awry except for this extra plug:

http://rickatnight11.com/pictures/car/cluster_pin.jpg

I don't see where it would plug into, though, so I think that's for an optional part my car doesn't have. So, it seems like the problem rests somewhere down the line where the wires come from. Any ideas anyone?


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## 83Datsun200sx (Mar 27, 2006)

check grounds to bcm


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## 83Datsun200sx (Mar 27, 2006)

oh and check for draw on battery with test light or with peanut bulb with lead wires on it.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

83Datsun200sx said:


> check grounds to bcm


What's the BCM, and how do I check the grounds?



83Datsun200sx said:


> oh and check for draw on battery with test light or with peanut bulb with lead wires on it.


Do you mean check if the battery has any power?


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## 83Datsun200sx (Mar 27, 2006)

take negitive terminal off battery put and test light or peanut bulb with lead wires.in series with battery.touch neg side of battery with point of test light clamp the neg battery cable terminal just to check if u have draw on the battery when key is of.make sure all doors r close when doing this test and everything in car is off.if testlight glows and then goes off u dont have a draw on battery. i saw where u your friend tested the battery u may have voltage there but not enough amperage.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

I don't have a test light, so I'll need to go pick one up, but since the engine can turn over and drive fine (not to mention the radio, speedometer, seats, etc all work) would't that mean the problems not at the battery?

After looking up what a BCM controls, that seems pretty likely. How can I test that? I'm not even sure where it is.


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## 83Datsun200sx (Mar 27, 2006)

behind the glove box.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Well, I pulled the whole glove box off to take a look. I don't know what I'm looking at, though. Visible from the passenger seat (to the right) I found these:



Ducking underneath and back behind those I found these:



I also found this thing:



(I disconnected and pulled it down for the picture. It wasn't disconnected like that.)

What should I be looking at, and how do I test it? Thanks for your help.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Is your windshield wiper and headlight switch one integrated piece or 2 separate pieces. It's possible you have some sort of malfunction either at the switch itself or wiring harness at the steering column - just throwing out some ideas.........


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

It's an integrated piece. Why would that effect the tachometer?


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> It's an integrated piece. Why would that effect the tachometer?


Probably not but it could explain some of the other issues. You did say the tach works on and off so it could be some loose connection. Check the headlight switch, make sure you clean all the contact terminals either with some electronic cleaner or fine sandpaper. There are some threads on the forum that show how to do this.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

The reason I'm hesitant to blame poor contact terminals or a loose connection _at_ one of the components is because they all stopped working at the same time. One day everything's fine, the next everything goes wonky. That's too coincidental for all of these things to merely start malfunctioning. Not that this is coming from a mind that knows cars at all, but scientific method drives me to believe that there's a single point of failure that's causing all of these seemingly unrelated functions.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Yes, you could be 100% correct in your assumption. We're just offering possibilities and I'm sure thru' process and elimination you will find the solution at some point but until you or someone else comes up with the definitive answer you will still have to eliminate some of those possibilities. I know it's a PITA but I can also tell you're determined to lick the problem


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

I really do appreciate the help. I hate to take this to the dealer, but I feel like unless someone knows what would be effecting all of those things and how to test/fix it, the dealer's the only one that will know how to fix it immediately. They have all the wiring diagrams, etc. It's stressing me out, though, because I know how expensive it's going to be, even if it's a simple fix.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> I really do appreciate the help. I hate to take this to the dealer, but I feel like unless someone knows what would be effecting all of those things and how to test/fix it, the dealer's the only one that will know how to fix it immediately. They have all the wiring diagrams, etc. It's stressing me out, though, because I know how expensive it's going to be, even if it's a simple fix.


Try NickAltima's suggestion with a new battery. See if you can get a jump and while still connected to the other car test some of the stuff that is not working like high beam and wiper just to rule out the battery issue.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

The battery is actually fine. It wasn't dead after all. When we went to check out the car last week, it started right up. I drove it back, and mechanically it ran fine. It's just those electrical things that still aren't working. I can still walk out, start it up, and drive it around. It doesn't need a jump.

I believe the headlights work when the light sensor perceives that it's dark, but I can't make them go on with the switch. Neither turn signals nor high beams work from the switch either.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> I believe the headlights work when the light sensor perceives that it's dark, but I can't make them go on with the switch. Neither turn signals nor high beams work from the switch either.


This definitely sounds like a headlight switch problem!!!


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Same here, except the wiper switch also has this problem, as does the tachometer. (Actually I lied, there's one thing on the wiper switch that _does_ work: the wiper fluid pump.) So what would effect all of these things?


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> Same here, except the wiper switch also has this problem, as does the tachometer. (Actually I lied, there's one thing on the wiper switch that _does_ work: the wiper fluid pump.) So what would effect all of these things?


You said the wiper switch and headlight switch is integrated so it's possible that some of the prongs are not making contact properly. The pump could be a different terminal on the same switch. The only thing I'm not sure of is the tach but that could be a separate issue even tho' it happened at the same time. You said the tach works sometimes, did you happen to test either the lights or the wiper when the tach was working?


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Faja said:


> You said the wiper switch and headlight switch is integrated so it's possible that some of the prongs are not making contact properly. The pump could be a different terminal on the same switch. The only thing I'm not sure of is the tach but that could be a separate issue even tho' it happened at the same time. You said the tach works sometimes, did you happen to test either the lights or the wiper when the tach was working?


I didn't say that. The headlight switch is on the left side of the steering column. It handles turning the headlights off/auto/on and the high-beams on or off.

The wiper switch is on the right side of the steering column. It handles the wiper blade speeds by pulling it up to the roof or down to the floor (and setting the interval by rotating it.) It also handles the wiper fluid pump by pulling the stick towards me. That wiper fluid function is the only one that does anything.

Tachometer is obviously up in the instrument cluster.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

Well, seeing that all your problems (except for the tach) seem to be tied to one common place (the steering column), maybe you can check the switches, both of them and/or the harnesses they are attached to.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

That makes sense. I have the plastic cover off of the steering column (needed to to get the instrument cluster out.) I checked all of the connections, and everything seems tight and secure. What do you think my best option is for troubleshooting it?


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> That makes sense. I have the plastic cover off of the steering column (needed to to get the instrument cluster out.) I checked all of the connections, and everything seems tight and secure. What do you think my best option is for troubleshooting it?



Just disconnect the harness, look at the wires/terminals on both ends, see if everything is aligned up properly or no broken pieces. Reconnect and just try lights or wiper. If still no go, you might have to look at the prongs on the switches themselves and see if they are making proper contact, spray with electrical cleaner if you have any and reconnect and test again.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

do you have a multimeter or a test light?


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

No, but it looks like I'll need one. I checked the plugs and everything seems shipshape. Still no response from wipers or lights, though.


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## Nickaltima (Jan 11, 2008)

i dont have anymore input lol faja is deff helping out..i complain about this site ALL the time about people who give stupid answers or dont know what they are talking about..i give faja some credit b/c this is the 1st and ONLY time ive seen someone come back with some decent feedback and try to actually help beside myself when there is someting im pretty familiar with..so just a quick thanks faja the forum appreciates you..btw im saving you for help on future problems i have lol if thats ok..seeya guys rightatnight hope u find the prob steering column probs are horrible lol ull get it figured out tho lol


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

It just doesn't feel like a problem at the steering wheel. All signs point to something further down the line. I just don't know what that is. I think I'm just going to have to bring it into the dealer. This sucks.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> It just doesn't feel like a problem at the steering wheel. All signs point to something further down the line. I just don't know what that is. I think I'm just going to have to bring it into the dealer. This sucks.


I've run out of ideas too Rick. If you do take it to the dealer let us know what the problem was as now I'm just as curious as you are except I don't have to pay for my curiosity 

BTW, thanks for the positive words Nickaltima - appreciate it!! :givebeer:


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## 83Datsun200sx (Mar 27, 2006)

sorry told u false info of location of bcm i forgot it is under hood.did u get that new battery yet?


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

83Datsun200sx said:


> sorry told u false info of location of bcm i forgot it is under hood.did u get that new battery yet?


Well, it was a fun journey learning how to remove my glove compartment. What new battery? My battery's fine.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Thanks for everyone's help. I brought the car over to the dealer this morning, and just got the call from them. I need a new IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module), which came to $410 total parts and labor. I'm just glad it wasn't the computer.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> Thanks for everyone's help. I brought the car over to the dealer this morning, and just got the call from them. I need a new IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module), which came to $410 total parts and labor. I'm just glad it wasn't the computer.


Glad you finally got it sorted out... the way they make those things, you just can't replace a relay or two, it's all or nothing. Too bad about the $400 price tag but that's the way it goes sometimes.... GL in the future.


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## Nickaltima (Jan 11, 2008)

wooooow lol i cany believe none of us thought of that hahaha...thats a pretty fancy name for a fuse box tho huh lol


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Is that really what it is? Damn. How difficult would those be to replace? I see one on eBay for $100.


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## Faja (Aug 31, 2009)

rickatnight11 said:


> Is that really what it is? Damn. How difficult would those be to replace? I see one on eBay for $100.


Yep, that's the piece they replaced. As Nickaltima said, it's a modern day computerized fuse/relay box that has some sort of controller/circuit board that is tied in with the ECU and BCM. I haven't taken one out but I think they just have some wiring harness or connectors attached to them so it should be fairly easy to replace but I'm not sure what else might be involved in the actual swap.


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

Sigh, well I needed my car, and now it's getting taken care of. If I had all of this information from the beginning I probably would have tried replacing it myself, but that's the prices of knowledge and service. On the plus side I can look forward to spam emails and constant phone calls from the dealership! Oh...wait...


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## PeekHoles (Mar 12, 2010)

I wonder if this is the same problem I have on my car. So is your car running right again since you took it to nissian?

I wonder how I can test it, I know nissan can for $100.00

My post:
http://www.nissanforums.com/l31-2002-2006/159269-03-altima-will-not-start-loss.html#post1304972


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## rickatnight11 (Mar 5, 2010)

My car _is_ running fine now, but I'm not sure if you're having the same problem. For one I never got a check engine light, and it never affected anything mechanical with the car.


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