# Slow to Start, Must Give Gas. Tried Many fixes already...



## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

I've searched for hours and hours on various Nissan forums, and I can't seem to resolve my slow starting problem on my 1997.5 Altima SE. 

The car will usually start EVENTUALLY if you just crank it forever, but usually I just give it several jabs of gas and it will start up after a few pumps. Immediately after it starts however, if I don't continue to keep the revs up it will stall, and I 'll have to repeat the process. Once the car gets going, it's smooth sailing. It doesn't seem to have any problems other than starting very slowly. And usually if I shut the engine off and start it again within 15-30 mins, it will crank right up, but not always. I'm also getting around 27mpg. 

I tested the fuel pressure inline and at the fuel pressure regulator and everything was pretty much within spec. I went ahead and replaced the fuel pressure regulator just for the heck of it. I also replaced the distributor cap, rotor, o-ring, and plugs/wires. No oil was in the distributor. I also tested the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor at ambient and warm temperatures and it was also within spec. 

I also tested the MAF and it was reading low voltage according to the Chiltons: 1.0 volts at idle and 2.2 volts at 4000 RPM. So I bought another MAF at a junkyard and replaced it... same problem starting and voltage reads the same [email protected]/[email protected] I tried jiggling and tapping the MAF and wiring harness to see if the idle went crazy, but nothing happened. Seems unlikey that both MAFs are bad and reading the same errant voltage... What would this low voltage be indicative of if not the MAF itself??   

The check engine light comes on and off sporadically, and only returns a P0420 Three way Catalyst code which shouldn't be related to starting I don't think. I just got the car and the girl I got it from said it's been slow to start ever since she owned the car (3 years/30,000 miles), but it seems to have gotten worse over time. 

Sorry for the long post! But any ideas or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated as I've spent hours and hours and lots of $$$ on this so far. Thanks!!


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## enjoy_incubus (Aug 26, 2004)

check the iacv-idle air control valve.


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

the iacv was one of the next things on my list to check. I tried to test it with a multimeter, but because of it's position I couldn't get to the connectors once I got the harness off. Is there any other way to test it without taking it off? 

Today I disconnected the TPS electrical harness and started the car with the intention of adjusting the idle screw but the car just stalled after a few seconds. Each time I turned the key, it would come on for a second or two, then drop to 50-100 RPM, then stall. From what I read on this forum, the car should continue to run even when the TPS is disconnected. Would this be an indication of a bad IACV?


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

All so check the EGR functionality


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

i was going to check the EGR, but a mechanic friend told me that it wouldn't affect starting so I have been ignoring it. He could be wrong, I'll look into it tonight...


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

mdmitch2 said:


> i was going to check the EGR, but a mechanic friend told me that it wouldn't affect starting so I have been ignoring it. He could be wrong, I'll look into it tonight...



Your friend is right it will not effect the starting of the car, only the idle. How is the fuel pump, did you trouble shoot this oh, and the starter motor as well?


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

My brother and I rigged up an inline fuel pressure tester and fuel pressure seemed to be within spec. Just a bit on the high side maybe. Although I didn't test the actual fuel pump itself. Should I pull the seat and test the pump too even if it seems to be within spec? 

We also did the voltage drop test on the starter and it was within spec. 

Oh and I also sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold to see if I had an air leak, and the idle stayed consistent, so I'm thinkin thats not the problem.


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## dmcgreal (May 7, 2006)

try to clean the egr it is your best shot just take it off and spray brake cleaner in it ( it work the best ) it should help with your idle problem my car had the same problems now the slow starting the only thing i can think of is a bad battery so good luck with that also try the positive battery cable put a new one on it my be coroted and not getting enough power to the starter.


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## enjoy_incubus (Aug 26, 2004)

mdmitch2 said:


> the iacv was one of the next things on my list to check. I tried to test it with a multimeter, but because of it's position I couldn't get to the connectors once I got the harness off. Is there any other way to test it without taking it off?
> 
> Today I disconnected the TPS electrical harness and started the car with the intention of adjusting the idle screw but the car just stalled after a few seconds. Each time I turned the key, it would come on for a second or two, then drop to 50-100 RPM, then stall. From what I read on this forum, the car should continue to run even when the TPS is disconnected. Would this be an indication of a bad IACV?



if your iacv is bad, you might have a fluctuating idle.


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

at this point i'm less concerned with the fluctuating idle than the slow to start problem... i just thought the two might be somehow related. by the way, both battery terminals are very clean, and I already tested the starter and tried another battery as well.

Also, I adjusted the base idle yesterday. After disconnecting the TPS I had my wife sit in the car giving it a little gas to keep it from stalling. I turned the idle screw two full turns to the left, after which she let her foot off the gas and it was idling steadily around 800. It seemed to fix the idle problem; and it no longer stalls after starting which is nice, but it still takes a while to crank, and continues to require a pump or two of gas to get going.  

hrmmm  

thanks for all the suggestions so far!! keep em coming if ya got em!


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## jpcode (Nov 28, 2004)

*Injectors*

I had a similar problem but with the added symptom of regular misfiring in the fourth cylinder. Changing just the fourth injector fixed it. Roughly $60 at autozone for rebuilt.


1994 GXE 305,000 miles
1995 211,000 miles


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

thats funny because when I changed the fuel pressure regulator I noticed the grommet on the 4th injector was a bit worn and the injector itself looked ever so slightly out of whack... Is there any simple way to verify this is the problem before buying another one? 

I've noticed that when it eventually starts, I almost always smell gas pretty strongly, and it's often accompanied by dark smoke out of the exhaust, which made me think I was running rich. But I'm not throwing a single code now and I've been getting pretty darn good gas mileage (27-31mpg).


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## deathskrye (Dec 3, 2006)

*hmm*

I had a similar problem. There was water in my gas tank.


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## KDragon (Oct 9, 2006)

you could try to listen to the injector to see if it sounds like its not running right. To do this just take a screw driver and put the blade to the injector and your ear tight on the handle.
you should hear the clicking of the solenoid.

At least thats what iv been told...


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## mdmitch2 (Aug 17, 2006)

hey I'm glad you guys resurrected this thread! A few days ago (after 9 months) I finally figured out what the problem was. :woowoo: 

About a week ago, I finally got a cel code 0304 (misfire on cylinder 4), so I decided to investigate the injectors. From some advice on this forum, I checked the ohms on the injectors and they were all within spec at 11.00 ohms. They also all clicked with the screwdriver to the ear test. 

I had read that they could still be bad even if these two things checked out, so I took the rail off while leaving all the hoses connected. I had my wife turn the key to the "on" position (not cranking) to pressurize the injectors. As it turns out the 1st injector was steadily dripping fuel. I hooked eveything back up, and pulled the fuel pump fuse, and started the car to depressurize the system, popped out the 1st injector and sure enough the lower injector o-ring was mangled. I lubed up a new o-ring and replaced the mangled one, and ever since, its started up perfectly every time! Hooray!!!   


...now I just have to figure out where this oil leak is coming from


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