# '89 Nissan Maxima Idle/Running Problem(s)



## Jackolo (Oct 10, 2009)

:wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf:

So! The first thing I want anyone reading this to know is that I'm probably considered less then a novice with what little experience I have in diagnosing/repairing cars, so please... bare with me.

As well, this is my first time on this forum and don't have any clue what the proper etiquette is for asking questions like this, so if I sound like a moron, again, I apologize.

*Now, the symptoms.* From what I can tell, it feels/sounds like fuel isn't getting to the chambers OR the chambers aren't firing correctly. But what I can't figure out for the life of me is if it's a mechanical or electrical problem... Weather it's the fuel injectors, the fuel pump, or anything to do w/ the ECU, I'm completely at ends with it.

The symptoms are the worse when it's cold, especially when first trying to get it to start after sitting all night. On a cold start, I generally have to restart the engine about 2 or 3 times to keep it running. On the first attempt, it'll turn over and sound like it's starting, then die immediately, even with the gas pedal fully depressed - _which is what I have to do to get it to start_.

When it does start and keep going, I have to climb the RPM by fully depressing the gas for a second or two, then releasing it towards the top of the pedal (just slightly depressed), and it'll jump about 3 - 400rpm each time I do that. Until it decides to work right and then the rpm goes straight to the redline - which usually happens when the rpm was already around 2.5k - 3k.

And then as soon as I put it in drive, its a slow drive. It'll put put its way a block or two as I have the gas completely depressed, then it'll randomly work right and haul ass. I keep it in first while doing this, but as soon as I release the gas it goes back to the same problem. In fact, if I'm driving in first w/ the rpm around 3 - 4k, with the gas in just enough to keep it going, it runs smooth. But as soon as I depress or release the pedal again, it loses about 70% of it's power. And then I have to climb the rpm again.

It'll do this until the temperature needle gets to about 1/4 the way towards the mid-range (operating temperature). As it warms up, it starts to run better and better, until it completely warms up and then has no problem at takeoff. But even when it's warmed up, the idle is rough and I generally have to slightly depress the gas to keep it idling smooth. Without that, it'll drop to about 600rpm and then idle rough.

*Here's the wacky part.* It runs better with the heater/blower fan on. A/C doesn't make a difference other then the normal ~100rpm drop. My thinking on that is... that's an electrical component, but it's not tied into the ECU or anything, so why would that affect performance other then a voltage/current change from the system?

I'm so confused, and don't want to spend a grand at a shop just for them to tell me I need to replace something. What I'm looking for is common problems in these models that could be causing this. Any direction to go with this would be helpful.

Oh, and the only thing I've done to try and fix it is replace the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs. Which did nothing.

The engine is the standard VG30 that comes with this model, no aftermarket parts. Automatic, and somewhere around 200k miles.

Thanks in advance!
Jackolo


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