# '06 Pathfinder fuel tank remomal



## GMP (Jul 6, 2009)

Guys,

New member here. Wife has an '06 with 80K that I am not impressed with compared to my Toyotas. I already fixed the front driveshaft, replaced fan clutch, and A/C line failure. Now to do the fuel level sensor. Any special tricks to dropping the tank? I assume there is no panel in the floor to access the fuel flange. Looking under the truck it appears that everything connects at the top, including the filler. I know I should buy the manual, and I will, but looking to knock this job off quick this week. I'm a good mech, just looking to shorten the learning curve, thanks.


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## boogyman (Jan 24, 2005)

I don't know if you already tackled the tank yet, but if you look in the pr.pdf and fl.pdf. it will give you all the info you need for the job. It says 4 bolts for the shield and 3 for the tank straps, then you just have the fuel connections. The nissanhelp.com has the manual. I'm probably going to have to do this myself, since my fuel level sensor has been going for a while and after yesterday's fill-up is now bottomed out. Usually it slowly creeps back up, but it has never bottomed out like this. At least i reset my trip each fill-up so i know about how far i can go in between.


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## GMP (Jul 6, 2009)

Thanks, I'll probably get to it this week while my wife is out of town and does not need the truck. Any idea if the part is easy to get or backordered, as many are failing. Also, is the newer part the same or improved?


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## boogyman (Jan 24, 2005)

I checked on courtesyparts and they had it right on the front page of our model years. Pathfinder Parts (R51) 2005-2009 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com It's been a big failure part from the get go. I'm just glad we can get it without having to replace the whole pump, unlike some other vehicles. Dropping this tank will be a lot harder than my old grand cherokee, That was easy loosen 2 bolts and disconnect. Of course that was a 94, now they are similar to the Pathy. Some engineers just don't remember the motto Keep It Simple Stupid. Tank straps are really useful. Why they went away, only the engineer knows? 

My gauge did come back up and I cleared the code this morning. So I have a little while longer till i need to replace it. Which is good since it's supposed to rain the whole weekend.


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## GMP (Jul 6, 2009)

Where are you in NJ? I'm in Jefferson Twp.

If I do not fill the truck, the guage works and eventually the code self clears(40 good starts I think). Do you know the failure mode of the part? Is it electrical or a mechanical malfunction. I had an HD Vrod with a similar problem, and just cleaning/polishing the rod that the float was guided on fixed it. Since this is an overvoltage problem at one end of the range I suspect its a something like a bad potentiometer and a fix is not so simple. I would like to know the cause.

Yeah, the part is not too expensive. The complete fuel flange for my Ducati Hypermotard lists for $900!! Fortunately there is an aftermarket pump for just $150 if I ever need one.


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## boogyman (Jan 24, 2005)

You're barely in NJ. I'm in Bordentown, by Trenton. I suspect that the part is just crap from the supplier. Probably the pot, since there isn't a whole lot to it. Usually mine stops being accurate(hangs) around half a tank and then drops to a quarter. Maybe adding electrolitic grease right where the arm connects to the pot will help it last longer. Should help seal and lubricate. You should get a code reader so you don't have to wait for the code the clear. It helps when others pop up. I just keep one in the truck so I can get the code before it disappears or clear it and see if it pops back on. They are on sale at pep boys once in a while and don't cost much. Good luck working on it this weekend.


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## GMP (Jul 6, 2009)

Finally did this job last Sat. Used a motorcycle jack to support/lower tank, worked perfect. Need to raise the truck a few inches to allow the tank to clear the frame when down. You have to go slow, lower just a bit and disconnect the filler line (remove rear wheel, eaiser). Lower a bit more and tilt the tank down on the front side to get to the remaining HP fuel connections and the electrical connector. Be careful there is not much slack, surprising. Once out, drain the remaining fuel, remove flange, R&R sender, and back in. Not too bad, would have been eaiser if my wife didn't put 15 gals in it the day before. Problem solved, for now.


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## boogyman (Jan 24, 2005)

Sounds easy enough. I'll have to do it soon, when I get a free weekend. It's due for an oil change anyway, plus belts and basic checks. How is the sender attached, clip, screw?


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## GMP (Jul 6, 2009)

The sender slides into a grove in the flange assy, and snaps into place. Its a 30 second job once the flange assy is out of the tank. 

I think I know what the failure mode is. The sender is basically a very small PC board with surface mount resistors and many contacts, which are switched in/out by small wipers attached to the float arm. The arm pivots in the plastic housing that retains the PC board. Very dirt cheap part, not impressed with engineering. On the bad sender, this is quite loose, and allows enough play for the wipers to lose contact with the PC board when the float is forced up (full tank). I suspect this is from something in the fuel reacting with the plastic over time. I needed to get the truck back together, but if it happens again I'll modify a new sender before installing it.

Run the tank as low as possible and it will be much eaiser to handle dropping it.


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