# Alternator for Powerful Sound System



## SXY_SR20DET (Aug 21, 2003)

Hey all,

It feels good to be back at this forum. Things have been busy, and I've worked a lot. Today I have some free time, so I thought it would be cool to see how everyone else has been doing.

Recently, I just installed a high performance head unit by JVC. In comparison to the deck I originally had, the system POUNDS now! I would love to pound it even more, but already I'm seeing light dimming. 

Due to experience, I had blown my alternator and battery at the same time about a year ago, and luckily enough, a buddy of mine that has the exact same car, (year and everything) let his alternator go for 50 bucks! What a lifesaver! I shelled out on a better battery though, a spiral cell 770 CCA battery. I think this has helped me thus far, but I know its only a matter of time before my alternator dies again.

My question to all of you guys is this: "What kind of alternator should I get for my car to replace the stock one?" I'm hoping someone has installed a Chevy alternator or something with high amperage, without paying thousands of dollars for it. I'm aware that I will probably have to change my bracket, but I was just curious if anyone has changed their alternator to a high output one without really modifying their bracket.

Any info would be greatly appreciated, cuz I want to hear the full extent of my subs on a regular basis, withoutbeing paranoind that my alternator is going to die when the next bass wave comes through..

Thanks guys! :fluffy:


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## Lin (Jun 16, 2005)

SXY_SR20DET said:


> Hey all,
> 
> It feels good to be back at this forum. Things have been busy, and I've worked a lot. Today I have some free time, so I thought it would be cool to see how everyone else has been doing.
> 
> ...


I was looking to install a maxima alternator .Some of the maxima alternator are 125 and 128 amps.They look like they will fit with minor mods.


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## SXY_SR20DET (Aug 21, 2003)

Sounds like a good plan actually. I bet the plugs would be the same too. Good idea.. now to find an Maxima alternator.. :thumbup:


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## SE-R_03 (May 27, 2005)

Not sure what kind of alternator to get, however, to protect your battery and alternator, you may want to look into getting a Capacitor or two (depending on your system) which will act like a seperate power source for your system. Just a thought.


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## [High-Octane] (Jun 2, 2005)

altough it adds alot of weight, is it possible 2 just wire everything 2 a seperate battery
and not have 2 worry about the alternator or will like the battery die because its not being charged by the alternator or w/e


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## SXY_SR20DET (Aug 21, 2003)

I do have a .5 farad cap right now. I know that I should be running with a 1 farad at least, but money has been the issue over the last little bit.

I was told about doing a separate battery, however, if I do put another battery in just for the amp and subs, I would still need something to charge it up.. and that's where I thought it would be better to have a larger alternator to put out more amperage, so then that way I'm putting more power in than losing power. I wouldn't want to drain either battery.

So what's the best thing to do here?

A: A deep cycle battery with an isolator?

B: Larger capacitor?

C: Larger alternator?


I just want my lights to stop dimming and tachometer bounce a couple hundred RPMs when there's a loud bass thump.. and for everything to be adequately charged. :crazy:


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

[High-Octane] said:


> altough it adds alot of weight, is it possible 2 just wire everything 2 a seperate battery
> and not have 2 worry about the alternator or will like the battery die because its not being charged by the alternator or w/e


Yeah that works great until after the first 5 minutes the battery dies... 

You'll need a bigger altenator if you want to prevent dimming... What kind of altenator I'm not sure.. Look at getting it re-wound.


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

just upgrade the groundings on the car. Searched for "the big 3" that'll help out with keeping a higher volage going through your vehicle.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

My previous install was a minivan, 8 jl audio 12w3's pushed by a us amps xterminator series 400x making 1500 real watts rms. The power source? An 80 amp oem alternator and 2 optima yellow tops. No capacitors. No isolators. Just a 4ga cable tying them together. I never had issues w/ dimming, hard starts, dead batteries, or a burned out alternator after 2 years of use. Buy a 2nd battery, upgade the big 3 and try it out before spending money on more gear, I don't think it is nessesary.


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

yes. try big 3 first, then yellow top then alt. excessive amperage quoted me 270 bucks for a 200 amp alt for my 1.6 b14. i'll get it before i'll upgrade to a 1501D and another ava 15 since i just rather spend 270 and have a "bulletproof" electrical system that i know can let let pound all day and not have anything to worry about instead of constantly wondering how the hell this 70 amp alt is powering this amp that draws a 150 plus amps plus all the other stuff.


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## SE-R_03 (May 27, 2005)

asleepz said:


> Yeah that works great until after the first 5 minutes the battery dies...
> 
> You'll need a bigger altenator if you want to prevent dimming... What kind of altenator I'm not sure.. Look at getting it re-wound.


If you ever get a chance to check out any professional system. Especially the ones that are used in show cars (like the ones that go to CES and SIMA), you will notice that every one of them uses capacitors. The reason for this is that it acts like another battery. It charges from the battery in the vehicle. This way, whenever you play your audio system, it will get its power from the capacitor, rather than the battery. If you are planning on getting a bigger alternator, or another battery, you are wasting your time. If you want to do it the right way the first time, get a capacitor and put it in your vehicle. A good rule to use is to use a 1 Farad capacitor for every 1000 Watts your system puts out. Once you do this, your lights will not dim anymore and your audio system will not drain your battery.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

SE-R_03 said:


> If you ever get a chance to check out any professional system. Especially the ones that are used in show cars (like the ones that go to CES and SIMA), you will notice that every one of them uses capacitors. The reason for this is that it acts like another battery. It charges from the battery in the vehicle. This way, whenever you play your audio system, it will get its power from the capacitor, rather than the battery. If you are planning on getting a bigger alternator, or another battery, you are wasting your time. If you want to do it the right way the first time, get a capacitor and put it in your vehicle. A good rule to use is to use a 1 Farad capacitor for every 1000 Watts your system puts out. Once you do this, your lights will not dim anymore and your audio system will not drain your battery.


The use of capacitors has been discussed heavily here and all the people who know what they are talking about agree, they are useless. Read this, and forget about what people at car shows are trying to sell you.
http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=79825&highlight=capacitor


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

superfro86 said:


> yes. try big 3 first, then yellow top then alt. excessive amperage quoted me 270 bucks for a 200 amp alt for my 1.6 b14. i'll get it before i'll upgrade to a 1501D and another ava 15 since i just rather spend 270 and have a "bulletproof" electrical system that i know can let let pound all day and not have anything to worry about instead of constantly wondering how the hell this 70 amp alt is powering this amp that draws a 150 plus amps plus all the other stuff.


A 70 amp alternator works because no one listens to a full power sinewave all day. In fact almost no one really listens to a system that powerful at full blast for very long. Any time the amp is drawing less than full power (about 99% of the time) it is using just a tiny fraction of its power requirements. Think about duty cycle, in the course of a 5 minute song, what part of that time it spent delivering peak power? How long does a bass note last? How often does it occur? And what is the time in between notes where little to no power is being drawn? Meanwhile, the alternator is chuggin' along putting out its power continuously. You have to map power drawn/consumed over time to begin to understand true alternator requirements for a given system.


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## SXY_SR20DET (Aug 21, 2003)

Wow, there is definitely an overwhelming response here. I'm glad I asked the question. 

I will reemphasize tho, I do have a .5 farad cap, and although I should have closer to 1 farad, I really still feel that a cap isn't enough. I have been told about getting another battery with my friends, but I think if I'm drawing out more power than what I am putting in, it will still eventually kill the battery, or both batteries. From what I've read, upgrading the grounds does help. I'm definitely getting another battery. Now, if I bought an isolater as well, would that give me better results?

My biggest fear is losing yet another alternator. Those things can be expensive; although depending on where I get it, an aftermarket could me cheaper than an OEM replacement...


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

i see your point shrapnel but take a song like lil scrappy f.i.l.a or eminem superman it pretty much just wangs through the song. what setup you got? I live in nc and i go to raleigh on occasions might have to check you out sometime. and any for less than the price of most 1kw amps i can get a 200 amp alt why the hell not. it almost garanteed to prevent any dimmage of any kind plus i can go around saying i got a 200 amp alt


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## Twiz (Aug 24, 2004)




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