# idles too low



## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

Hello, I just purchased a one owner "old lady" 1995 Altima GXE - runs okay - just replaced plugs and wires and distributor but when it warms up, the idle dips down to 300-400 rpm at a stop and it feels like it wants to die out If I give it gas it corrects for about a minute then the same. Idles normal when cold. Car has 132,000 miles, has been well maintained. Also what should normal idle be for this car at operating temp? Thank you!


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## Darktide (Jul 29, 2004)

replace the fuel and air filters. Sounds as though the fuel filter has been clogged and the pump is having a hard time maintaining enough pressure for you at idle. Many cars can be well maintained but most people tend to over look the fuel filter. Or at least that's been my experience

Darktide


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

want to bet its a intake manifold gasket leak, Darktide?


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## vader3120 (Nov 12, 2006)

or how about the IACV, not as likely as the fuel filter, but these things crap out too.

It could also be a clog in the EGR systyem some where.

i would test the EGR system to make sure that is working and then get a can of carb n choke cleaner, and go around the intake manifold spraying between the upper and lower halves and listening to see if the car revs up, if it does, then there is a leak.


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## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

Okay did the fuel filter thing - helped a bit, tried the gumout thing on/around the intake manifold - stayed the same so I'm thinking it's the IAC valve - I have a Haynes on the way that I won on e-bay, can someone tell me where it is located on this engine? Incidentally, the EGR valve looks new. Many thanks.


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Before you remove the IACV, (which is locate at the front of the engine or near cylinder #1) and clean that out, which is a real pain in the ass to get access at. First try cleaning out the throttle body, with some intake manifold cleaner and a toothbrush. See how that works out

Frank


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## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks for all the advice thus far - cleaned the TB and it improved somewhat not to the point of dying out. Here's the thing - once it's fully warmed up and I come to a stop light, the idle will go from 800 - 700 - 600 - 500 and just hang around at 500 RPM - It idles smoothly in Park or Neutral at about 850. The time at a stop light from 800 to 500 RPM is about 6 seconds. If I turn the lights on it will practially kill the engine, but it recovers back to 500. So, to recap: New plugs (NGK), new wires, new distributor (Nissan) new fuel filter, new air filter, checked intake manifold for leaks, cleaned up TB (improved a bit) but still wants to idle at 500 when warm. Plenty of power, no odd noises, smooth pick up, starts instantly etc. Just this damn warm idle issue.


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## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

For those following - I had the battery (new) and alternator load tested today and the alternator was only putting out 13.1 volts at idle - 13.5 volts at 2500 RPM. If I switched the hedlights on, the reading at the battery was 12.8 volts, meaning the car was basically running on battery power whenever at idle. This answers why the car would almost die out when the cooling fans came on or at night time when I switched the lights on - hope this info helps others out. Replacing stock (133K miles) alternator this week. I just wonder why the battery light never came on?


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## vader3120 (Nov 12, 2006)

like you said 133k miles will do that, glad to see that you have fixed your problems though


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Check to see if the battery light is burnt out. Or perhaps your alternator was going and you caught the problem first


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## vader3120 (Nov 12, 2006)

the lights in the cluster do suck, luckly it is a cheap easy fix that doesnt take that long


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

I have to replace the OD light on my dash. Its really cheap but a pain in the ass to do just for a little light


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## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

Londonderry, Vader3120 - how do you do it? It's burned out - I disconnected the alt and no light came on - also, it doesn't come on when you start the car and all the other idiot lights come on. I tried to stick my hand up there but don't know where to even look. Thank you again..


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## vader3120 (Nov 12, 2006)

you have to remove the whole gauge cluster, there are 2 bolts i think holding in the bezel, the bigger piece that covers the gauge cluster and stuff, then there are 4 bolts that hold in the gauge cluster, then there are 3 or 4, (i cant remember) wire harnessess to unplug, and most of the time you will get all but one done really fast, and that last one is a pain to get undone, but dont break it or fight it. Then remove the gauge cluster, find the approiate lightbulb, remove and install a new one.


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## Darktide (Jul 29, 2004)

trust me londonderry. Its not a pain in the ass.

It takes a total of 15minutes the first time. And that's just because it takes a little time to unplug the wire harnesses (there are 3)

It took me 2 hours from start to finish on my old 91 Chevy Truck. There were over 30 screws/bolts holding the dash together. 

Darktide


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

Darktide said:


> trust me londonderry. Its not a pain in the ass.
> 
> It takes a total of 15minutes the first time. And that's just because it takes a little time to unplug the wire harnesses (there are 3)
> 
> ...



I guess what mean is its not mechanically challanging to do, a few screws and a screw driver is all you need. For me, my time could be better spent than replace a small light bulb for car repairs. Ever try trouble shooting christmas lights, thats a pain.


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## gjc866 (Nov 12, 2006)

Okay - the freaking problem is back. Was in heavy traffic and the radiator fans came on and it almost killed the egine. As soon as they shut off - back up to 600 RPM. I played with this and turned on the headlights and the same thing happend - almost kills engine. Idles about 400 - vibrates badly. As soon as the electrical load is removed - runs fine. So far, Alternaltor, battery, drive belts, air and fuel filter, brand new NGK plugs, wires, Nissan brand distributor - checked/cleaned MAF and throttle body. Problem is definately electrical related since it only occurs when a load is present such as the headlights, or cooling fans. Please help!!!!


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

I have the same issue with my Altima. But not as bad as yours. I spent lots of hours trying to find this problem. I'd try cleaning out the IACV and see if the sol. need to be replaced. Keep me posted


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

Also check the Throttle Positon Sensor adjustment and if possible the ignition timing.

Troy


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