# Cam Timing on a 2.4/ Could this Quick Fix work?



## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

I have a 1995 Altima GXE and I strongly suspect that the two cams are not in time with each other. The book states that I should drop the oil pans and take the BOTTOM front cover off as well as the top front cover. *There is a lot of extra work if I use this method.*

The chain that goes from the crank gear and idler gear has a certain number of links between the silver links that are supposed to line up with the marks on the crank and idler gear. Let's say there are 24 links just for the discussion. 

If I place the crank at top dead center and count up 24 links up to the idler gear I would make a different mark on the outer gear set of the idler gear.

If I count the number of teeth between the original idler mark on the outer edge and the original inner mark used to line up the camshafts and then move that many spaces to make a new mark on the inner gear of the idler gear, couldn't I align the camshafts off of that mark instead of the original one.

This would save me about three hours worth of work. I don't see why it wouldn't work and I would not have to remove the head, I could just remove or tie back the tensioners and re-align the camshafts to each other and then to the NEW mark on the inner gear of the idler gear.

Does anyone see any reason this would not work? If so please explain why or if you have another easier way of doing it I would love to hear it.

Thanks,
Kaiser Willy


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

charleshickseds said:


> I have a 1995 Altima GXE and I strongly suspect that the two cams are not in time with each other. The book states that I should drop the oil pans and take the BOTTOM front cover off as well as the top front cover. *There is a lot of extra work if I use this method.*
> 
> The chain that goes from the crank gear and idler gear has a certain number of links between the silver links that are supposed to line up with the marks on the crank and idler gear. Let's say there are 24 links just for the discussion.
> 
> ...


you dont need to go to all that trouble. the cam sprockets and upper chain have marks of their own. I asume you have a manual that gives you the marks? why do you think one cam is out of time? I currently have my 94 partly torn down I will get back to you later but it is late. If you need a manual go to phatg20.com the 95 FSM is posted there.


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## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

Because it will only run if it is about 27 to 30 degrees BTDC instead of the 18 to 22 BTDC it is supposed to be. How would I be sure that the crank and idler were in the right position to use those marks with the silver links if I don't count them. I would love to do it an easier way as long as I only have to do it ONCE. Please share ANY tips.I am so tired of this car. 
Thanks, 
Kaiser Willy


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

charleshickseds said:


> Because it will only run if it is about 27 to 30 degrees BTDC instead of the 18 to 22 BTDC it is supposed to be. How would I be sure that the crank and idler were in the right position to use those marks with the silver links if I don't count them. I would love to do it an easier way as long as I only have to do it ONCE. Please share ANY tips.I am so tired of this car.
> Thanks,
> Kaiser Willy


First go here http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=getit&lid=249
and download the Nissan service manual for your car. Then go to page EM-21 this is the installation of the upper timing chain. It will show you the timing marks to look for. 

On my Engine I have not looked for the marks yet. I just bought the car for $200 with a blown head and the chain needs to be cleaned for me to find the marks.

I have replaced the headgasket on these engines a few times without removeing the lower cover but it takes a bit of careful observation. Also be sure to remove all bolts on the upper cover so not to break it, some are difficult to see. Refer to the blow up view in the manual. As for timing of the cams to the crank you are correct, it is impossible to see the marks on the lower chain with out removing the lower cover. I misinterpreted your statement. I thought you suspected one cam was off from the other and just wanted to move one tooth on just one cam wich is simple in comparison to moving both in relation to the crank.

My concern though is are you following the proper procedure to set base timing I have been mislead many times by generic manuals. Check and follow to a "T" the procedures in the nissan manual these preliminary checks are criticle to proper ignition timing.

Oh!! For simply moving the cam sprockets one tooth, clean the chain and sprocket free of oil just on the face and apply a line accross the chain and sprocket whith nail polish, permanent marker, white out or paint for a referece point. Then remove the sprockets one at a time and turn it one tooth. With the chain and sprocket marks off just one tooth you know exactly how much you have moved it, no need for timing marks to do this.


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## charleshickseds (Aug 12, 2007)

>On my Engine I have not looked for the marks yet. I just bought the car for $200 with a >blown head and the chain needs to be cleaned for me to find the marks. 

Sounds like a good deal. 

>I thought you suspected one cam was off from the other and just wanted to move one >tooth on just one cam wich is simple in comparison to moving both in relation to the >crank.

I have actually taken the head off of this car and others like it four times now and that is what I DON"T want to do if I can help it.. I can tell you the sizes of the bolts underneath the crossmember I have looked at this so much. Actually moving just one tooth is what I am hoping for. I know the drop everything method all too well and would like to avoid it if possible.

>My concern though is are you following the proper procedure to set base timing I have >been mislead many times by generic manuals. 

I actually have the Haynes, Chilton and The Black Nissan Service manual for this car. I hate not having the information I need when I need it. As much of a pain as this is right now I really do like the car and plan on keeping it. I installed new rods and mains about 15,000 miles ago.

>Oh!! For simply moving the cam sprockets one tooth, clean the chain and sprocket free >of oil just on the face and apply a line accross the chain and sprocket whith nail polish, >permanent marker, white out or paint for a referece point. Then remove the sprockets >one at a time and turn it one tooth. With the chain and sprocket marks off just one tooth >you know exactly how much you have moved it, no need for timing marks to do this.

I believe this will do what I need it to do. If both cams were off one tooth each I suspect it would not run. It currently will run and sound good for a while but the timing is always off about 10 to 20 degrees. With each revolution being 360 degrees and there are 19 teeth on the sprockets then each tooth should make about a 15 to 20 degree difference in the timing. Twenty degrees is roughly the difference in where the better performance currently is in contrast to where it should be. Thanks for the idea. I will try this first it does seem easier than my counting method. :cheers:


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