# How many sq. feet of deadening



## ryan7o7 (May 6, 2004)

How much deadening is needed for the 200sx trunk??


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## James (Apr 29, 2002)

wouldn't that be easier found out by pulling out a tape measure and measuring the trunk space you want to lay the stuff out on?


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

the question is, how much deadening do you want....you could cover the trunk with 20 square feet, or 200 square feet...how much cash do you have, and how much doyou want deadened


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## ryan7o7 (May 6, 2004)

James said:


> wouldn't that be easier found out by pulling out a tape measure and measuring the trunk space you want to lay the stuff out on?


yea i could do that, but i dont know how much i need for it to sound good. Like one layer or 3 layers etc? i only want to do the trunk.


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

how many subs do you have in the trunk? What size? How much wattage?

Honestly, one layer will have better performance than stock, its really all about what you want to spend


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

check this out 
also check out ebay for your sound deadning, i found (jasper found lol) 100 sq. feet for 100 bucks, i am going to do my doors and at least the top of my trunk mostly to get rid of the vibrations. what ever i have left i dont know what i will do with we will see


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

The stuff I found works great is RaamMat. They just came out with an alternative to Dynamat Extreme, called RaamMat bxt. I used close to 125 feet in my Silverado and will utilize like 50 sq feet in the Pathfinder. For a standard size trunk, 2 layers should do fine, with maybe a 3rd layer just under the sub box, if you have a "ricer" exhaust, then maybe 3 all the way around.


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

Dynamat I think is what it's called is good and cheap and STFU is good.


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

Dynamat is NOT cheap. Its one of the most expensive products out there. Elemental Designs eDead v.1 is 1 dollar per square foot and is 45 mil's thick....v.3 is 1.50 per square foot and is 65 mils thick


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

Azgrower said:


> The stuff I found works great is RaamMat. They just came out with an alternative to Dynamat Extreme, called RaamMat bxt. I used close to 125 feet in my Silverado and will utilize like 50 sq feet in the Pathfinder. For a standard size trunk, 2 layers should do fine, with maybe a 3rd layer just under the sub box, if you have a "ricer" exhaust, then maybe 3 all the way around.


i only have one layer throughout most of my trunk. 2 layers on the lid (bass is firing towards the lid). dont bother with extra layers to muffler the exhaust

one thing people dont seem to understand about sound deadening, there are 2 types
theres a closed cell, rubberized asphalt/butyl rubber and aluminum backed matting, used to stick to the metal to prevent rattles. if theres a ribber insulation on the metal, it cant rattle, its that simple!. note, although there is a difference in road noise volume, it hasnt actually gotten quieter, the difference is, you no longer hear things echo/reverberate (if a rock hits, you hear it, but instead of a "ping" sound, theres more of a dull thud)

now, to kill off ROAD NOISE, or any other sort of ambient noise, you need an OPEN CELL deadening (ensolite, an adhesive backed foam rubber, i think STFU makes a nice open cell deadener, or, in my case, synthetic carpet padding). the open cell deadening (hence, open) absorbs the ambient sounds, and doesnt allow them to echo (not as much anyways). think about it this way, they dont put padding under carpet in a car for comfort (carpet isnt supporting any weight, only the chair is, your feet simply rest on top of it)...it's in there to nullify some of the road noise.

i plan on making a whole thread about deadening (maybe it'll be a sticky?) explaining everything i know about it, as far as methods, brands/companies, types, and an explanation of all the above. too many people think dynamat is a soundproofer, or their car will get quieter, and this needs to be cleared up.


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

^its the truth!


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

Punkrocka436 said:


> Dynamat is NOT cheap. Its one of the most expensive products out there. Elemental Designs eDead v.1 is 1 dollar per square foot and is 45 mil's thick....v.3 is 1.50 per square foot and is 65 mils thick



Naw man I mis-spelled. It sounds like Dynamat but it's not. I forgot what it was called but it was like a sq. yard for like 14 bucks.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

SKD_Tech said:


> Naw man I mis-spelled. It sounds like Dynamat but it's not. I forgot what it was called but it was like a sq. yard for like 14 bucks.


Too bad you don't remember. That might be useful.


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## Binger (Aug 29, 2002)

I used an entire Dynamat trunk kit just on the floor of my trunk. Each front door has an entire wedge pack just on the outer skins...it depends on what you want to do.

However you can fill some parts with 2 part expanding foam that helps alot and is really really cheap. 
For example...my friend has a 96 cavilere. He took his trunk lid off and drilled some small holes in the x frame that braces the trunk lid. Then he injected 2 part expanding foam into the holes to fill up the entire bracing to the point that the foam was coming out the holes...but also was carefull enough to not over do it so the foam didn't raise xs in the outer skin. He also did this on the back part of the deck lid (part between tailights)
After it dried he cut triangles of dynamat xtreme to fit in the areas between the cross brace...he put layer after layer in these places untill it was even with the top of the cross brace. It took like 5-6 layers if I remember correctly. Then once it was level with the top of the bracing...he put a whole sheet of Xtreme across the whole thing. Then put 2-3 layers on top of that. Then he built a cover panel out of that bendy plywood and carpeted it then used some uncovered holes to put clips in. 
It took 3 people to put this trunk lid back on because it was so heavy...but now when you knock on it is a solid knock...not a hollow rattle. He needs to use clamps to hold it open.

Buy a Bulk pack then do the entire trunk...then whats left use for multiple layers or put on the rear deck then were ever else you feel like.


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## Punkrocka436 (Jul 8, 2003)

once again, dynamat is WAY too expensive. Buy a different product such as second skin (40% off for being a forum member), eDead (Ben at eD is a great guy to work with), raamat, b-quiet, etc etc


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

captain_shrapnel said:


> Too bad you don't remember. That might be useful.



Peel N Seal roofing material


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

here's a few pics of my car as well..
Raammat here as well. I used two and a half rolls of it, which is around 150sq ft IIRc.
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/interior/stereo/dynamat/

there's two or three layers on the floor of the trunk, three on the sides, two or three on the trunk lid..

doors inside the car have 2-3 layers on the outer skin and 2 layers on the inner skin.
I filled all frame rails and ribbing on the trunk lid, rear deck, and any other air passages with expanding foam.. the car is now so quiet that I can hear myself breathe at 100mph on the highway.


...................... And now I'm ripping it all out to get back the 100+lb of weight!!!..............


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

i was thinking about the foam too is it tuff to use? like on my trunk bracing if it fill that up and not over do it will the lid bulge? i wat to do that before i cover it in sound deadner. to make it alittle more solid


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

Be VERY careful with it and don't use too much.. the stuff expands very rapidly at first, then will slowly continue until it's about double the size of the first quick expansion... so you may think you're going easy, then you go back and your trunk lid is blown to bits.

I suggest picking up a crunched trunk lid at a junk yard or something and trying it out first... figure things out on it, then go to your good sheet metal.

also be very careful not to get it on any exposed paint or surfaces you like pretty.. the stuff does NOT come off. the only way you can wipe it off is with lacquer thinner or acetone. thinner melts paint, acetone melts plastic... so don't get it messy. spend a few extra minutes and mask off the rest of the car- you'll thank me the first time you drop a blob on the paper


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

thanks, i dont have the money for a junk trunk but hell maybe they will just let me try it alittle on one there :thumbup: andyea im really anal about stuff when i paint so i would deff. paper off the car


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

I have used expanding foam as well in the previous build up. It is a cheap and effective way to fill cavaties and deal with rattles. Previous post said it right, that stuff will surprise you with its expansion... for 2 days the stuff I used grew. It also becomes VERY hard, so use caution. You won't cut it out, you'll chisel it out.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

captain_shrapnel said:


> for 2 days the stuff I used grew. It also becomes VERY hard, so use caution. You won't cut it out, you'll chisel it out.


jesus. thats kinda scary


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## asleepz (Feb 24, 2004)

Punkrocka436 said:


> once again, dynamat is WAY too expensive. Buy a different product such as second skin (40% off for being a forum member), eDead (Ben at eD is a great guy to work with), raamat, b-quiet, etc etc



Yeah I agree with you there. It was a name close to Dynamat but wasn't it. Damn I wish I could remember.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

SKD_Tech said:


> Yeah I agree with you there. It was a name close to Dynamat but wasn't it. Damn I wish I could remember.


Peel N Seal....cheapest you can get anywhere!


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