# Exterior Door Handle Replacement



## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

The door handle on my '97 HB broke while trying to open a door that was partially frozen shut. I'll attribute it to an old, UV baked plastic handle...not my 'assertive' attempt to pull the door open. 

Sooo, big job to replace it? I get it that the door panel has to be removed. Any other things to look out for?

Have a line on a handle from an '89 for $15. Seems like a fair price and I think a handle from as far back as '86 will fit.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

I've always removed the inside door panel, but I can't say for sure if that is necessary.

It isn't a big job. I've done it twice on my driver's side door and once on the passenger's side.

Those cheap ones on eBay break a lot more than the stock ones.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You do have to remove the interior door panel. You'll need to unhook the plastic clip in the rod to remove it from the handle and the two 10mm nuts that hold the handle to the door. It's not too bad of a job, just a little awkward to get to the nuts. I've been using Dorman outside door handles quite a bit. Dorman makes good stuff and they have a lifetime warranty. Rockauto.com has them for the Hardbody. They cost about $12 for black and $9 for chrome, plus shipping. You can Google for a 5% discount code. If you trust their low cost options, they have black for $3 and chrome for $5.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks guys! 

Think I'll try the boneyard donor. Will give it a go when we get a stint of fine weather.

I'll let you know how it went.

As for the next little while, the passenger door will be my entry point.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

I've been finding some good prices on new parts at... 

AM Autoparts - After Market Auto Parts - Headlights, Mirrors, and More

Free shipping and handling to everyone within the continental US. Not sure about rates and prices into Canada.

-R


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I got it changed...kind of.

It was a huge PITA to do it! Huge! Initially, I 'thought' I had it all done. Even tested it a few times. So, I put it all back together and...the door handle wouldn't work (acted like it was locked). Had to pull everything off again.

I examined it and for the life of me, I can't figure exactly how it works. The little rod attached to the door handle doesn't seem to 'fit' into anything. It randomly catches (barely) some type of plastic plunger that opens the door mechanism.

I actually had to wire the rod so that it engaged the plunger that opens the door. It looks like the rod should fit on top of the plunger, but I tried multiple times (unsuccessfully) and I couldn't get the rod on top of the plunger. I ran a wire from the rod to one of the 10mm nuts that holds the handle to the door (to keep it close to the plunger).

When the weather gets better, I'm gonna' pull the passenger door panel off and see just how it all works.

So, for now it's kind of working. The door will open, but the exterior handle won't return to it's proper spring loaded position (it returns about 50% of the way).

I hate doing something half-assed, but it started to snow, it's cold and I don't have a garage. It'll have to do for now.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

You're going to wind up with 2 door handles that don't work. LOL

Drop by a Nissan dealership and have them set it for you. If you do that while getting an oil change, there might not even be a charge.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Nearest Nissan dealership is over an hour away. 

I thought that pulling the panel off the passenger door and having a good look as to how the whole thing works (the passenger handle is still good) might shed some light on my problem. Then, maybe I'll have an 'A-Ha' moment and see what I'm doing wrong. 

It's cramped quarters inside the door and my doors are full of undercoating so when you drop a wrench, nut...whatever, it makes for a sticky, oily mess to find it.

Next time, I'll document the whole process and take lots of pictures (assuming it goes well, of course).


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

I took mine apart and replaced it. It always felt "spongy" afterwards until it broke a few months later.

So, I got another one, replaced it, and it felt "spongy" too. By this time, that seemed normal.

I had to bring the truck in to the dealership for injector work. When I showed up to get the truck afterwards, the service manager said the handle broke on the mechanic, so they had him install another one. I started to complain how it was a new part that was less than 6-months old, but they said there was no charge.

Know what? It does not feel "spongy" anymore.

A How To video would be great.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the rod that runs from the handle has a plastic clip to keep it to the handle, that you already know, the other end has a plasitc sleeve (if you will) that can screw up/down for adjustment, it fits into a metal loop(for lack of a better word) on the the latch, when you pull up on the handle it pushs the "loop" down to open the door. install the rod into the loop first, then attach it to the handle... hope that made sense


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

'Spongy'...yes! That's exactly how I'd describe my door handle! 

It won't return to the 'closed' position on its on. A little push and your good.

Anyways, when the weather warms up (we're currently under a heavy snowfall warning) I'll dig a little deeper.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Pics from when I fought this, showing my original one that died. I didn't know the plastic part was an adjustment screw.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hmmm, I'm kinda' following you.

So, a fella' should attach the top part of the rod to the handle *after* the handle's been secured to the door? Uggh...cramped quarters.

I attached the rod to the handle first (secured it with the little plastic grommet thing) and then inserted the attached rod through the opening on the door skin. Then, I did my best to get the bottom sleeve close to the plunger thing.

Now that you mention it, I did notice threads on the plastic sleeve at the bottom of the rod.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Those pictures are awesome JP! You should see the inside of my door! Chainsaw bar oil mixed with candle wax. Great undercoating! But I digress!

Your second and third picture show the plastic part (I called a plunger) that my rod is randomly catching. I had to wire the rod to keep it in close proximity to that white plastic piece in the picture so it 'catches' it when you open the door handle. Otherwise, the rod was touching the plastic piece and deflecting away...and the door wouldn't open.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Rod goes into the stepped, plastic fitting on the "as you say" plunger on the door latch and then attaches to the handle via the plastic clip. If you need to adjust the rod, turn the stepped, plastic fitting at the latch (or, at the bottom of the rod, if you prefer). Trying to do it any other way is only going to reduce the amount of hair on your head as you gradually pull it out!


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

As you can see, I don't have any room for 'pulling of hair'. 

So, I've gotta' win this one!


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Finally had a warm (relatively speaking) day so I could work on the handle again.

The adjustment of the threaded plastic end on the rod was the key to getting it done properly! (I'm now an expert at getting the door panel on and off.)

Anyways, it's all done and works great!

As always, thanks for the all the help. You guys are awesome! 

Cheers!
Grug


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## inconduit (Mar 7, 2020)

im seriously hoping this whole post is going to be similar to my 2006 xtrail, i just broke my drivers door handle today and this was best description for trying to change it i could find, thanks! and hopefully one of the sites posted will have a door handle for me lol


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## Rybo (May 20, 2021)

Does anybody know the name and post number of the plunger piece. I am missing that and I can't find it anywhere.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Rybo said:


> Does anybody know the name and post number of the plunger piece. I am missing that and I can't find it anywhere.


First, it always helps to give us a little information about your vehicle when asking for part numbers. We can "assume" you have a D21 Hardbody since you're in the Hardbody section, but year and, more specifically, which door, would be helpful! The "plunger" which the OP describes is part of the entire lock mechanism. If you are talking about the part that pushes into that part and is connected to the door handle, that would be the outside handle-rod assy. The rod is the same part number, regardless of side, Nissan # 80608-01G00 (part code "80680"). Driver's door lock assy. is Nissan # 80503-11G03 (part code "80503") and passenger lock assy. is # 80502-11G03 (part code "80502").


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