# 2001 Pathfinder, Remote Starter Installation



## jamesonepp (Aug 30, 2005)

2001 Pathfinder LE, 3.5 Automatic. 

Got a remote starter for Christmas. I figure I should be able to install it myself, with a little help and advice. 
I can get access to all the wiring under the dash and steering column, and the starter came with a wiring chart. I figure it's just a matter of identifying the correct wires in the vehicle's harness and connecting them.

Is this something that is easy enough to DIY? Or should I get a pro to install it?

Making the connections: 
Should I strip out a small section of the wire and connect, or snip and connect that way?

Locating the wires on the harness: Is there a wiring diagram available somewhere that will show the colours and locations? I've lumbered through Google but can't seem to find anything quite as specific as I'm looking for. 
Here's what I found so far: 
http://www.directwholesale.net...ID=5  

Thanks


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## charlie_one (Aug 18, 2005)

Here is a page where you probely can get all the help you want, ill now that Zilverado on this forum got help to install his remote starter there.

the12volt.com


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

charlie_one said:


> Here is a page where you probely can get all the help you want, ill now that Zilverado on this forum got help to install his remote starter there.
> 
> the12volt.com


You got it *charlie_one*. You beat me to it - I was going to post that link as well.

*jamesonepp*, go and take a look at that website, those folks are great - lots of good info there. I was able to find wiring charts (not diagrams) that told me wire colours, functions and locations. It really helped. Then all I needed were some basic electrical tools (i.e. 12v tester (or volt meter), continuity tester, soldering iron, tape, etc.). Took one afternoon to install and then a couple of extra days talking the the folks at www.the12volt.com to work out some gliches. All is well.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.


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## charlie_one (Aug 18, 2005)

You see, im almost a fast learner Zilverado  :fluffpol:


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## jamesonepp (Aug 30, 2005)

Awesome, that's a good resource. 

When you installed your remote starter, did you have to get a bypass for the SECU and vehicle immobilizer? I read something to that effect on that forum.

Also, is it a better idea to snip and splice wires, or to strip a small section and splice that way?

And what the heck did you solder in there? I was just going to use tape...


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## Zilverado (Sep 25, 2002)

jamesonepp said:


> Awesome, that's a good resource.
> 
> When you installed your remote starter, did you have to get a bypass for the SECU and vehicle immobilizer? I read something to that effect on that forum.
> 
> ...


My '92 did not have any sort of immobilizer or alarm to deal with so it was a little more straight forward.

As for the wiring, I made all my connections as soldered connections, and then taped them. The soldering is just a much more solid and permanent installation - - less likely to come loose and cause problems. In most cases, I did not cut the wire completely. I just removed a small portion (say 1/2") of insulation, and spliced the new wire in and then taped it. However, lately, I've started using heat-shrink tubing instead of tape as much as possible. Only thing is that this reqiures you to fully cut the wire - - to get the tubing onto the wire.

One more thing... just be aware of the second ignition wire in your vehicle's wiring harness. I believe your Nissan will have it as well (like mine). Your remote starter will likely have a wire for a second ignition wire. It's important to connect this one, otherwise you may not have enough cold cranking power to start the vehicle - - it'll crank, but too slowly and with not enough "juice". This was one of the small issues I ran into (just not understanding it). Once I found that second wire in the vehicles harness, and wired it up, I was off...

So, I would strongly recommend that you register for the forums at www.the12volt.com It's free and these guys can really help. Many of them are professional installers willing to share their valuable experiences - just like here.

Just take your time, have fun, and ask questions.


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## jamesonepp (Aug 30, 2005)

Alright! I thought I had managed to *actually* do this on my own - the installers that I called quoted me anywhere from $450 (Canadian) to $712 to install one of these.
Hopefully I just spent 3 1/2 hrs and saved a few hundred bucks, but we'll see.

Problem 1) Power Lock and Power Unlock don't work.
On the remote starter module, there are two wires: (-) Unlock output (blue) and (-) Lock Output (blueblack). I connected these to a LtGreen and Yellow wires (respectively) under the dash. Here's the thing.. there were TWO yellow wires that came out of one of the white plugs on the SECU. One had two silver dots, the other only 1 (they look painted on). Nothing in the wiring diagrams concerning either of these. I have pin assignments for the SECU (Lock is pin41, unlock pin 30) but I can't see any printed pin numbers anywhere on the plastic.
Also, I didn't connect the "Door Trigger" input or outputs - it says that these are for manual transmissions.
So why don't my door locks/unlocks work?

Problem 2) Parking lights don't flash. The Green/White (+) on the module I connected to Pink/Blue (+)(from wiring diagram). I purposely didn't connect the horn. The SECU will control that in the event the alarm is set off anyways. However, the parking lights don't flash when using the remote starter when they are supposed to.

Problem 3) the unit came with two remotes. Only one of which seems to work. Working on this one, think that it is a problem with the remote and NOT the module/vehicle at this point.


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## Daisley (Dec 8, 2005)

I installed a remote start on my '01 QX4 (same as Pathfinder) last year. I recall the door locks need a double pulse to function. If your remote system is capable (many are) you can program it for double pulse to overcome the lock issues. Otherwise you need to connect the lock/unlock wires to a different point in the harness.
I bypassed the immobilizer by removing the cowl on the steering column and taping the head from a spare coded key next to the ignition lock. Altho this is not a recommended practice, it got me around the immobilizer issues. Everything works fine. Makes it easier to steal, tho...
As for the lights not flashing, it sounds like you haven't found the right wire in the harness for the flash function.


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## jamesonepp (Aug 30, 2005)

Are you using a second factory - coded key for the ignition, or did you have a second key cut?
I was thinking of seeing if the local yokels will cut me another key (with no chip) that I can use just for the ignition, seeing as the remote start works fine. 
I actually went and spent $70 on a remote bypass - the guys at the shop told me it didn't need a key, but this one did anyways. After some research, there are some problems with no-key bypasses anyways...


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## Daisley (Dec 8, 2005)

I used a factory-coded key to tape to the column as a bypass, after that you can use a non-coded key for regular starting/driving. You do lose the immobilizer function, but you're the only one who knows that!


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## jamesonepp (Aug 30, 2005)

Daisley said:


> You do lose the immobilizer function, but you're the only one who knows that!


Ah, but that's where I'm lucky. The bypass that I have only sends a pulse to the wrap around the ignition coil when the remote start is activated. So the immobilizer still fuctions normally (in theory) - But somehow I think that this will negate using a non-coded key without the remote start.


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