# 2011 Nissian Sentra No Blower For Ac/Heat???



## l3igl3ang (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi guys i got a sweet deal on a 2011 sentra today or i thought was pretty sweet anyway but getting it cheap came with its share of problems. It has cosmetic issues and the radio wire harness is cut off so i have to get one from a salvage yard and rewire up. 99% of the issues i can fix but the one that im going to have a tuff time fixing is the ac/heat blower it wont blow! i turn it on and nothing the ac kicks on out side the car pipes get ice cold but no air i also cant get the ac to turn off by pushing the button in. Do u think that it would be a bad control pannel or would it be the blower? also the button that switchs to the floor and dash it does seem to do anything and the bring air from outside doesn't light up. Have u guys had any issues with them going out cause i dont want to buy another panel if it dont fix it. I paid 3500 for it and it has 130k miles on it the motor is clean i think i got a good deal on it once i get everything lined out on it.


----------



## l3igl3ang (Aug 5, 2012)

I got them to come on the fuses was blown. Seems one of the fans is going out it was making a lot of noise and smelt bad and also what was odd is when I put the fuses in the fans came on and wouldn't turn off just ran on full speed. Any idea what would cause this?


----------



## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

l3igl3ang said:


> the fans came on and wouldn't turn off just ran on full speed. Any idea what would cause this?


The on/off switch contacts are now welded closed by the overly high current that the defective fan motor pulls?
That is, if I correctly understand what you wrote.

New parts are hardly ever bad but it's a lot of labor to put in a new motor. So, hook up the new motor to the battery with clip leads first to make sure it's good.


----------



## l3igl3ang (Aug 5, 2012)

ok cool I was afried it might had been a bad regalutor or resister or something so all I need is a new fan. and I have read I can get it out from under the dash so I should be able to do it.


----------



## l3igl3ang (Aug 5, 2012)

OhmsLaw said:


> The on/off switch contacts are now welded closed by the overly high current that the defective fan motor pulls?
> That is, if I correctly understand what you wrote.
> 
> New parts are hardly ever bad but it's a lot of labor to put in a new motor. So, hook up the new motor to the battery with clip leads first to make sure it's good.


I have gotton the new motor in wasn't to bad it works but still runs full blast??? where are these on/off switch contacts located at? I know its not in the fan motor. is it on the control panel of the car or somewhere else. cause I need to be able to controller the speeds and on/off of the fan


----------



## OhmsLaw (Mar 29, 2016)

You need to Google "switch". This is about the most basic electrical circuit component ever. 
Then try "nullator", "norator", "nullor" and "gyrator" for some pretty advanced stuff.

I think you are in over your head.  Be careful.


----------



## l3igl3ang (Aug 5, 2012)

I have researched it and people say a bad blower motor resistor will cause the fan to not run at all or run full time all the time. So I'm going to buy one Monday from the parts yard and see if that fixs it. hope that's all it is as that's not to hard to replace. costly though I might say 100 bucks local new 62 on rock auto


----------

