# What do these symptoms sound like to the car/240SX pros? Need an analysis!!!



## jcorbi82 (Jul 23, 2006)

Hello board, happy I found this. I have a nice little stock 1989 240SX Auto, a nice little car; I do like it. It is a dialy driver with basically 140,000 miles and 1 collission - in the rear, no residual damage, even the body looks "OK" although you can tell. I have started the maintenance; oil change with Valvoline Maxlife 10W-40 and now adding 20W-50 for the summer, and etc etc etc. 

My problem is with the "Collant." Seems every day/every other day, there is smoke coming from the reservoir. I need a new upper hose because I patched a pinhole leak in t with the J-B Weld, and today one at the top of the neck of the radiator with same, coolant is basically a 50/50 mix (just about all new by now) and green not brown in color. It seems, now, that when I am on the highway with the AC cranking (I keep it at 1 or 2 it is awesome AC,) I get the *occasional* 5 or 10 seconds of white whispy smoke from the tailpipe, but it goes away. I made sure my Oil is the right level. The most pronounced time this happened was when I added *4 QUARTS* of Transmission fluid to the transmission, but the dipstick never indicated the add; I believe most/all of it went on the ground, that is when the smoke was the most pronounced, so I need to have my transmission seal/filter/gasket serviced at least, hopefully it just got banged up and it is running with whatever is in there, since adding fluid seemed to be so unusual. 

My car never *Overheated,* It did get very hot during some strenuous driving about 3 times (basically just shy of that last thin line before the thick line at its very hottest but I always did let it cool, I have the temp gauge on the right) and the temperature holds very stable during driving, even with AC on most of the time.. I am trying to find the way to get all the air out of my cooling system without any tools, but can anyone tell me what it sound slike is going on with my engine and coolant, as in WHY IS THE WHITE SMOKE ON AND OFF ONCE OR TWICE A DAY WITH A/C ON???

And is the temperature increasing slowly with the AC on normal for this car? Thanks.

(Notes: My car needs tune-up because I need to clear air filter majorly, stalls at start-up but after 1 minute is fine due to need for tune-up ALL PARTS and "broken" hard plastic air intake pipe running across radiator. Any other info to guess what may be happening here, I'll add more info.)


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

First of all if your motor is fairly tight, don't run a 20W-50 motor oil; it's way too heavy. Stay with a 10W-30 all year round.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

White smoke indicates water vapor. If it only happens on a cold start, it just may be due to condensation in the exhaust system. However if you're losing coolant, then there may be a leak in the head gasket.

If you think there is air in the coolant system, your best bet may be to drain down the coolant and start all over again with the filling of the coolant. 
Here's how I do it:
1 - drain coolant
2 - open the bleeder screw
3 - optionally jacking up front of car helps to purge air pockets
4 - fill system until coolant starts coming out the bleeder hole
5 - close bleeder screw (not too tight; screw is easy to break off)
6 - continue filling until coolant is at the bottom of the filler neck
7 - do not put cap on the radiator
8 - start motor; as coolant starts to warm up, you may see a few air bubbles
9 - squeeze the hoses by hand to free up possible air pockets
10 - put cap on radiator

The temperature should never increase with the A/C on; maybe the auxiliary fan is not working.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

If you had to add 4 qts of ATF to the tranny, it was bone dry. I'm surprised that the tranny worked at all.

The proper way to check the ATF level is to first fully warm up the tranny. Now with the tranny in park and motor running at idle, the ATF level should be at the full mark, NOT OVERFULL.


----------



## jcorbi82 (Jul 23, 2006)

*Follow-up on the Info of my car, will do very soon*

WOW! Thanks for the reply, I have 3 short follow-ups for you, Nissan addict:

1) That may be a very valuable tidbit of info, I heard it from one other mechanic also but disregarded it... are you saying if the motor performs well and is in good condition, 10W-40 and 20W-50 Oil will help KILL it - not help it, in 90 and 100-degree summer humid or not humis heat??? Won't 10W-30 make the engine wear faster, a sI always thought it would??? I may let it all drain out of there and switch it to a 10W30 HIGH MILEAGE or SYNTHETIC - which would you use?

2) The "White Smoke" thing is weird. It may be transmissio-related: Vacuum control, or something. I am watching Coolant and Oil, and I need to replace my oil now, I'm not killing my nissan that dumb... If you used 10W-40 and 20W-50 for about 3000 miles to about 5000 miles, would you ruin your "tight" engine?
P.S.: I need to change my Upper Hose (the small one) and possibly the Radiator, as it is patched with J-B Weld on its neck; unless it can be flushed and billed as OK by my mechanic, I will get the even air-free fill there, and the Radiator Cap and rest of Cooling System can be checked, so I know my Nissan isn't getting weird because of 1 overlooked thing.

3) My trnasmission is a mystery. I want to take it to AAMCO, after I take it to my Local Guy for a standard "Full ATF Fluid Change and Filter/Gasket Replace" (I will ask him if I can give him the Valvoline MaxLife ATF fluid.) The White Smoke stuff was at its MOST severe (5 minutes, then went away) AFTER adding all that, and is since "at random" on the highway; and the temp gauge went up a little bit and goes back down. 

My car needs a tune-up, and I need all my Filters (fuel, air) replaced and that Tranny service; something happened, I know I backed the exhaust into a curb but how could I whack the ATF pan?

--- Please reply, this is all happening soon and I want to keep the board posted. Thanks!



==========================================================


rogoman said:


> First of all if your motor is fairly tight, don't run a 20W-50 motor oil; it's way too heavy. Stay with a 10W-30 all year round.
> 
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> 
> ...


----------



## SHpaintball (Jan 30, 2006)

i would highly recommend moble 1 oil it is by far the best oil have have put into my car thus far! as for the other problems...white smoke ....whats your car idol at? doubt its a vaccum its idol is correct.....white smoke is water look into your cooling system and check your exhaust b/c sometime the car wont burn up ethylen glycol (coolant) completely and you will see "water drops" coming out.... lets see i fixed it by replacing head gasket...removing emission parts and checking radiator hoses cleared up after the headgasket and emissions the most...some cant get completly rid of it b/c they need emissions i dont tho so there gone!


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

jcorbi82 said:


> 1) Won't 10W-30 make the engine wear faster, a sI always thought it would??? I may let it all drain out of there and switch it to a 10W30 HIGH MILEAGE or SYNTHETIC - which would you use?
> 
> 2) I need to change my Upper Hose (the small one) and possibly the Radiator, as it is patched with J-B Weld on its neck; unless it can be flushed and billed as OK by my mechanic, I will get the even air-free fill there, and the Radiator Cap and rest of Cooling System can be checked, so I know my Nissan isn't getting weird because of 1 overlooked thing.


1 - Nissan motors are built with tight clearances and the FSM actaully recommends a 5W-30 oil but the 10W-30 works good. Just like SHPAINTBALL suggested, Mobil-1 synthetic is an excellent oil to use.

2 - You might also consider replacing the thermostat. If you do replace it, use a Nissan OEM unit, not some aftermarket piece.


----------



## jcorbi82 (Jul 23, 2006)

*Sounds good to me!*

Alright guys, I will trust your advice on this since this is my Nissan to last awhile!

1) I will get that 70% 10W-40, 10% 20W-50, and 20% "old Oil" mix on a new filter out of my engine right away... 10W-30 High Mileage Conventional will suffice. My question: Did I do much damage to my engine by running basically new 10W-40 from miles 135,000 to 145,000???

2) Alrighty I will get it over there with a new packaged Nissan Dealer thermostat in place. As I said, if he flushes my Radiator and says it is OK I will leave it and only the hoses will be new; if it needs just a new cap, I know he will get one; if there is some time of major problem with the radiator itself, I will have him explain it to me and then say "Yes please go ahead and put in a new radiator so my whole colling system is OK, Thank You."

3) I will begin with his analysis of the Transmission "Pan" when he does the filter/gasket/fluid change and "flush," I hope that solves it since my transmission accepted that ATF VERY strangely! It is hot now and I don't want my transmission to die, I hoep the service will make the car less "jumpy" when I take off (sometimes it spins its tires) and I don't really hear the deep "sucking in air" sound when accelerating, a sound I always attributed with low ATF.

The car idles at about 600RPM, or just under or around 1000 with the AC on; idles better with the AC on. Needs tune-up because it will stall when first started, even in the summer; I need the Motor Mounts checked because the engine moves a little bit, and the thick air hose behind the radiator is now cracked broken because of what I think is engine vibration.

I will keep the board posted since I have to come up with some cash somehow, but please let me know if my plan is OK! I need to give back to my Nissan now... let me know what NOT to do (like my "Did I help kill the engine with the wrong grade oil" question,) - and can it be 10W-40 or is 10W-30 -the one-?

Thanks, hope to reply soon.


----------



## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

I would also check to see if the electric fan on the front of the radiator turns on when the AC is turned on. This should be a a quick easy check. 

As for your Trani being jumpy....My auto is the same way.....When my injectors arnt leaking I can get it to spin the tires when it goes from 1st to 2nd when your run the gears manually.

I would also check your pcv valve for the white smoke thing..... Since when you shift the pressure is changing in the engine the pressure vents to the intake. There is a post some where on here that I place a picture for the location of it if you cant find it.


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

You're worried to much about that 10W-40 oil; there should be no problems from using the oil for that period of time.

When replacing the tranny ATF filter, make sure the new O-ring is installed properly or else the tranny will go down the toilet.

Be very careful about doing a tranny 'flush'. When flushing the tranny cooler, disconnect both lines at the tranny and use a proper solvent along with a flushing pump.

The 'large air hose' you're referring to is, I'll assume, the intake system plenum tube. If this tube is cracked, that causes a major vacuum leak. This will cause startup and drivability problems, possible damaging detonation and screwed up emissions.

Replace the plenum and inspect the 'bellows' connectors on each end of the plenum for cracks.


----------



## SHpaintball (Jan 30, 2006)

honestly i wouldnt flush the tranny i would take it to the pros and let them do it with asurance that if they destroy it its FREE ...and cuz its about 55$ to get it flushed...not bad...and rogoman ...question ...if i have a gash in my intake pipe would this cause starting problems?...


----------



## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SH,
if the intake plenum has a hole in it, it's a major or minor vacuum leak depending on the size of the hole. It possible could cause starting problems and drivability problems.


----------



## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

rogoman said:


> SH,
> if the intake plenum has a hole in it, it's a major or minor vacuum leak depending on the size of the hole. It possible could cause starting problems and drivability problems.


SH mentioned a hole in the intake pipe, not the plenum, and I don't see how this could cause starting problems because the ECU does not use mass airflow readings on startup, but uses a coldstart map. Regardless of where the air is coming from, the engine will start.


----------

