# Need help - rounded off idler pulley nut, how to remove?



## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

I have a huge problem. I rounded off the idler pulley nut using a combination wrench. The nut is stuck. Used penetrating oil but did not help. Any way to remove it and replace with a new nut? Should I use a long pipe wrench? Please see the photo which was taken before rounding off the nut. It is a B14 chassis 97 Sentra. Please help. :crying:


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Probably the best thing to use is a medium sized pipe wrench with a long handle. If you need more leverage, get a piece of 3/4" or 1" straight pipe and slip it over the wrench handle.


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

rogoman said:


> Probably the best thing to use is a medium sized pipe wrench with a long handle. If you need more leverage, get a piece of 3/4" or 1" straight pipe and slip it over the wrench handle.


Thanks for your comment. I'm a newbie. 0

Please confirm that Nissan uses regular nuts on the pulley that must be rotated counter-clock wise for removal (lefty-loosey).

Should I use more penetrating oil? How long should I wait after spraying the nut with penetration oil? Any other trick?

Is it OK to tap the pipe-wrench extension with a hammer to give it some "impact" or momentum? I am worried that I'll damage the tension/idler pulley or the threads if I hammer the extension on the pipe-wrench. Let me know if you pros think it is OK.


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## Rudy_man (Apr 17, 2016)

I belive the BEST option would be to buy a socket grip-tite or similar on your local tool store to engage to the rounded edges of the nut. It's great! Believe me ?
Consider to apply penetrating oil or Heat to the nut before attempting to remove.

Enviado desde mi LEX720 mediante Tapatalk


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## Rudy_man (Apr 17, 2016)

Enviado desde mi LEX720 mediante Tapatalk


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

kmihmiscnissanforums said:


> Thanks for your comment. I'm a newbie. 0
> 
> Please confirm that Nissan uses regular nuts on the pulley that must be rotated counter-clock wise for removal (lefty-loosey).
> 
> ...


1 - Nissan uses the standard right-handed nuts for practically everything on their vehicles; CCW for removal. Years back I believe Chrysler used LH lug nuts for years, but only on the left side of the vehicle.

2 - First use a wire brush to clean up the exposed threads. Using some extra penetrating oil won't hurt; tap the side of the nut lightly with a small hammer to induce vibrations allowing the oil to seep into the threads more easily, then you can wait 15 minutes before wrenching.

3 - If you have a long enough pipe wrench extension giving you good leverage, there should be no need to hammer it; that nut is small. Just apply a steady effort in a counter-clock-wise direction and you should be OK.


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

rogoman said:


> 1 - Nissan uses the standard right-handed nuts for practically everything on their vehicles; CCW for removal. Years back I believe Chrysler used LH lug nuts for years, but only on the left side of the vehicle.
> 
> 2 - First use a wire brush to clean up the exposed threads. Using some extra penetrating oil won't hurt; tap the side of the nut lightly with a small hammer to induce vibrations allowing the oil to seep into the threads more easily, then you can wait 15 minutes before wrenching.
> 
> 3 - If you have a long enough pipe wrench extension giving you good leverage, there should be no need to hammer it; that nut is small. Just apply a steady effort in a counter-clock-wise direction and you should be OK.





Rudy_man said:


> I belive the BEST option would be to buy a socket grip-tite or similar on your local tool store to engage to the rounded edges of the nut. It's great! Believe me ?
> Consider to apply penetrating oil or Heat to the nut before attempting to remove.
> 
> Enviado desde mi LEX720 mediante Tapatalk


Thank you for your comments. I'll try these methods soon and update this thread. I am weekend warrior mechanic. It may take a few weeks...


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

I tried to use a 10 inch pipe-wrench yesterday. I did not use a lot of force, but, the nut did not move. I'm just going to leave the nut alone for now because my belts still have a lot of life left on them. The latest photo of the rounded off nut is below.


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## Rudy_man (Apr 17, 2016)

That's why I told you to use the socket grip-tite because to locate a pipe wrench over there is dificult. You should try It, believe me. It's not very expensive the one on the picture above.

Enviado desde mi LEX720 mediante Tapatalk


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Concur with Rudy. 

Sears makes a great 14-pc bolt-out kit in a nice red blow-molded case. Part # 952062

It'll have that bolt right off. You'll be very pleased.


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

It is still 35 degrees outside. I'll work on it a few weeks later when the weather is nicer. 
As a weekend-warrior mechanic, I'm afraid I'll do more damage to the car trying to remove this rounded-off bolt. I'm feeling stupid for using a 12-pointer.
I was reading about grip-tite and similar one-size-fits-all socket products. People are saying they do not work well. They are recommending Sears or Harbor Freight bolt removal special socket set. What do you guys think about the product below?


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## Necronomicon (Mar 27, 2017)

kmihmiscnissanforums said:


> I tried to use a 10 inch pipe-wrench yesterday. I did not use a lot of force, but, the nut did not move. I'm just going to leave the nut alone for now because my belts still have a lot of life left on them. The latest photo of the rounded off nut is below.


Why were you taking them off?

Anyways, heat heat heat! Make it feel HOT HOT HOT


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

Hi Necronomicon: Even though I only have 25k miles on these drive belts, they are 8 years old. I was trying to replace the drive belts. Is 8 years NOT too old?
BTW, I bought a bolt extractor socket set from Lowes, Kobalt brand. I'll update this thread soon with results.


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

I used a special socket specially designed for removing rounded bolts and the bolt came off. I have a new problem now. Where can I get the replacement 14mm flange nut? I called all local automotive parts store and none carry that specific size and type. Menard's and Ace Hardware carry generic flange nuts. Have you guys used nuts from Menard's or Ace? What is the thread pitch on that 14mm idler pulley flange nut, is it 1.5 or 2 or 3? Is it a type 5 or 8 or 10 steel hex nut? Should I use an anti-seize compound when putting on the replacement nut? I know airplanes use paraffin wax as anti-seize, is paraffin safe to use in this case so I don't end up in the same situation a few years down the road?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

kmihmiscnissanforums said:


> I used a special socket specially designed for removing rounded bolts and the bolt came off. I have a new problem now. Where can I get the replacement 14mm flange nut? I called all local automotive parts store and none carry that specific size and type. Menard's and Ace Hardware carry generic flange nuts. Have you guys used nuts from Menard's or Ace? What is the thread pitch on that 14mm idler pulley flange nut, is it 1.5 or 2 or 3? Is it a type 5 or 8 or 10 steel hex nut? Should I use an anti-seize compound when putting on the replacement nut? I know airplanes use paraffin wax as anti-seize, is paraffin safe to use in this case so I don't end up in the same situation a few years down the road?


Since that hex nut is not a high stressed item, then it's most likely a 4T grade with a pitch of 1.5 mm; if you want to be absolutely sure, use a thread gauge to measure the pitch. An anti-seize compound would be OK to use. The torque spec would be 65 ft-lb.


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## kmihmiscnissanforums (Dec 24, 2016)

Thanks to everyone who replied to this posting. 
Here is everything regarding the flange nut that holds the idler pulley on most older model Nissan Sentra, Altima etc. I learned the following from replacing my drive belts. The flange nut uses a 6-pointer 14mm socket to tighten or to remove it. Using a 12-pointer wrench or socket would result in a rounded-off nut. The inside diameter of that flange nut's cavity is actually 10mm and the thread pitch is "fine" which is also known as 1.25mm. These are non-tapered or parallel thread metric BSPP flange nuts and it goes onto the idler pulley bolt that is also a metric (BSPP) non-tapered bolt. Most American fasteners use NPT which uses a tapered thread. Easy solution is to go to your local hardware store like Menards or even Ace and buy a Type 5 or Type 8 flange nut which should work fine for automotive use, other types may rust over time. Menards' price is cheaper than Ace's. Menards' part # for that flange nut is 84961. Do not bother with Home Depot or Lowe's or Farm N Fleet, as they only carry a small variety of fasteners. Autozone, O'rielley, Advance Auto and other automotive parts stores, Ebay and Amazon either did not carry that specific flange nut or wanted too much.


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