# 4WD Turbo B12 Sentra



## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Is this the first one? I don't know, but 4WD turbo B12's don't grow on trees that's for sure. 

Back in 2002 I swapped a GA16DE into my '89 4WD B12 wagon. That thread is *HERE*. I became interested in turboing it several years ago when the Hotshot GA16DE turbo kit came out, but deemed it too expensive. Then the realistically priced TSi kits became available and I stood up and took notice. They were generally bashed here by most, but I considered my modest goals and kept them in mind. Over the course of the last six months, I have been reading everything I could regarding turbocharging the GA16DE. I would like to thank people like Wes, Mike Young, James, Andreas Miko, and many others here and on SR20forums, who shared their knowledge and experience on the subject. Their feedback allowed me to make some intelligent decisions on my own project. I set some simple goals for my standard 110 h.p. GA16DE going in. I wanted a modest increase in power and torque, not 250 h.p. like some are after. For me, 150 h.p. would be fine. I simply wanted the power characteristics of my stock '93 SE-R, but with 4WD.

*Simple Goals*

1. Spend less than $2,000

2. Increase horsepower by about 40%

3. Do it reliably without any expensive engine management electronics. 

4. Not have to "custom make" and source every single part.

5. Not need an upgraded clutch or fuel pump. [In fact, I am still using the original 90 h.p. GA16i pump].

So I opted for the basic TSi Superior kit for the GA16DE for $1399 shipped. They've gone up recently but are still only $1,469.99 *HERE*. 

Here are a few pics of the pre-assembled unit with the cast manifold. 




















The basic Superior kit does not use an intercooler, but I have a very unique set of operating conditions that I drive my car in. This is my winter car and I drive it here in upstate New York during the frigid winter months _only_. My car rarely ever sees temps above freezing. I use it for ice racing and winter TSD rallying. Couple the freezing temps with only 6 lbs. of boost and as you can see, I don't really _need_ an intercooler. I wouldn't recommend this route if you live in AZ though!

*Engine Management*

I read about how the GA16DE's original 185cc stock injectors were too small for even 2 psi of boost. The usual route is to go to 370's and an ecu reprogram. Everything involved in going that route would put me over the 2-k limit. I devised a plan to use standard SR20DE injectors, maf, and ecu in post #10 of *THIS* thread. I had a good running but rusty SE-R parts car donated to me so all of those components were free. I installed the SR's fuel system and drove the car normally aspirated to see how it worked. It worked out perfectly as described in post #24 of that same thread. To my delight, the A/F ratios were identicle to the standard GA's. I bought an Innovate LM1 wide band for all before and after testing. Even with this $300 purchase, I am still under the 2-k limit.

So I went ahead and installed the turbo system. The Superior system is designed for a '95 to '99 B14 GA, so I had to modify some of the piping for my '93 B12 combination. 



















It is connected to my mandrel bent 2" exhaust system [that I built 6 years ago when the car was n/a]. I refilled the oil pan with full synthetic oil, filled the fuel tank with 93 Ultra, added four BKR7E-11 plugs, and backed the timing down from 15 deg btdc to 8 deg. Before the first road test, I temporarily removed the hood and duct taped a fuel pressure and a boost gauge to the windshield to monitor things. To say I was really pleased would be an understatement. Boost was at 6 psi exactly as claimed and the A/F was 11.6 to 11.8 at WOT. Fuel pressure is raised to about 66 psi under boost, via the supplied rising rate fuel pressure regulator supplied with the basic kit. The car runs perfectly with no idling issues or flat spots. I shift it at 6-k. The once underpowered wagon now accelerates just like my '93 SE-R. Mission accomplished. 










Next weekend is the annual winter rally in VT. I've got my set of studded Hakkapelliitta 2's ready to go on SE-R wheels. Let the snow fly! 

Mike


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

I was in no hurry and took my time while installing the kit. Here are a few pics with some of the prep I did during installation. Although the manifold and turbo units come pre-assembled, I took it apart to check everything. 









This shows the plenum roof of the cast turbo manifold. A small flow directing wedge helps guide exhaust gases to the turbine.









I opted to port match the exhaust elbow to the turbo's chamber for best flow characteristcs. In this picture you can faintly see the areas where I used a black marker to show where I had to remove material to match the turbo outlet [below]. 


















This is how it looked afterwards.









Oil pan fitting installed and turbo unit mounted to the engine [below]. 


















Oil pressure and coolant lines connected. At Wes' suggestion, I teed the turbo cooling lines into the factory GA throttle valve cooling hoses. It was simple and it worked out very nicely. I had to flip the lower radiator upside down to clear the flexible turbo intake pipe.









I modified the supplied 2" downpipe to mate to my existing 2" mandrel bent system. 









I sourced the 3" MAF adapter and cone filter on ebay. Cost: $18.95 shipped.


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## greenbean699 (Jan 18, 2004)

I must say i am impressed at how the parts fit without much modding. I've always wanted to boost any one of my sentra's. Maybe some day i can afford a nice turbo kit. I've looked around for the diesel wagon but all i can find is the e16i FWD. Have you put the wagon on the Dyno?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

greenbean699 said:


> Have you put the wagon on the Dyno?


No, I haven't and I really don't plan to. Without having first dynoed the car before the turbo, it would be pretty meaningless to me anyway. Besides, there aren't any AWD dynos in my area.


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## RallyBob (Nov 29, 2005)

Very cool Mike. Glad to see you got it together and running.

My own Sentra is dying a slow death. I need to find another body shell that's rust free, preferably a '91-'92. Let me know if you stumble across something.

That said, I ordered my JWT turbo cams last week finally. So even if the car is falling apart, the last components for my own GA16DE turbo-build should be here next week.

Bob


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

That wagon looks amazing! Never thought in a day there would be a B12 4WD GA16DET running around, but I think we have a first!

I have a quick question about your fuel system. You said you tested your GA16DE using a complete SR20DE fuel system. Do you mean installing SR20DE injectors and plugging them into the stock harness and an SR20DE fuel pressure regulator without a different fuel pump, ECU, or MAF? I am really curious about this because I want to run SR20DE injectors on my GA16DE(T) since I am still using the stock ones at 4lbs.


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## RallyBob (Nov 29, 2005)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> That wagon looks amazing! Never thought in a day there would be a B12 4WD GA16DET running around, but I think we have a first!
> 
> I have a quick question about your fuel system. You said you tested your GA16DE using a complete SR20DE fuel system. Do you mean installing SR20DE injectors and plugging them into the stock harness and an SR20DE fuel pressure regulator without a different fuel pump, ECU, or MAF? I am really curious about this because I want to run SR20DE injectors on my GA16DE(T) since I am still using the stock ones at 4lbs.


If you re-read Mike's first post, he mentions:



> I devised a plan to use standard SR20DE injectors, maf, and ecu in post #10 of THIS thread. I had a good running but rusty SE-R parts car donated to me so all of those components were free. I installed the SR's fuel system and drove the car normally aspirated to see how it worked. It worked out perfectly as described in post #24 of that same thread.


So apparently he use _all_ the SR20DE components, not just the injectors. Since they are calibrated for a 140 hp engine, it's not too far of a stretch to fit them onto a mildy boosted GA16DE making 150-170 hp.

HTH, 
Bob


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

I see that now, I read through it rather hastily in all honesty. Would the same be possible in an OBII GA16DE? Will an OBII SR20 ECU match up accordingly?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> I have a quick question about your fuel system. You said you tested your GA16DE using a complete SR20DE fuel system. Do you mean installing SR20DE injectors and plugging them into the stock harness and an SR20DE fuel pressure regulator without a different fuel pump, ECU, or MAF?


Bob is correct, and no one knows more about these GA's than he does. In fact Bob was one of the very first cutting edge guys hot rodding GA16DE's back in the mid to late 90's. I learned from him [via Tim Mather's rally Sentra] that using the SR's injectors _without_ the matching SR air mass meter and ecu simply will not work correctly. It will be too rich. If you read some of Calum's threads on SR20forrums, you will see that although the SR and GA ecu's accomplish similar things, the electronics inside are very different regarding how they go about it. So you must keep the ecu/injector/air mass meter combos in the same family if not having the ecu reprogrammed.

Regarding the stock fuel regulator, I'm using the original GA piece. Same with the fuel pump. It's just the maf, ecu, and injectors from the SR that I am using.

There is one detail that I haven't finished with yet. The VTC system. Throughout all of these years I thought I knew how it worked, but I never really did until now. I always assumed that the intake cam was normally advanced for good off idle and low rpm power, and then retarded for more top end power after a certain rpm. After reading the factory manual, that's not how it works at all. To my surprise the intake cam's normal position is in the top end phase most all of the time. But under certain conditions: [engine coolant more than 158 deg. F, engine load high, and between 1,500 and 4,300 rpm's - and then again after 6,600 rpm's to keep you from blowing it up and warranty claims down] the ecu will turn the VTC solenoid on which advances the intake cam, which in turn shifts the torque curve to a _lower_ rpm in the band. This was quite a surprise to me. I have purchased an adjustable rpm "window" switch and will connect it shortly to turn on the VTC briefly between 1,500 and 4,000 or so like the factory did. Who knows, maybe it will spool the turbo quicker. I'll let you all know how it works out, but frankly I'm not expecting much from it.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> I see that now, I read through it rather hastily in all honesty. Would the same be possible in an OBII GA16DE? Will an OBII SR20 ECU match up accordingly?


I have no idea if this will work on an OBD-II car.


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

I guess I will try and see if the same "trick" will work on the OBII GA16DE. I have several friends with SR20DEs, and I already have a set of SR20DE injectors in a stock fuel rail. I guess I will simply "borrow" their ECU and MAF for the day, and try it out (with their permission of course). So, basically, you just have plugged in an SR20DE ECU, used the SR20DE injectors, and used an SR20 MAF? No other sensors? Looks like I'll be hitting up my friend with a 200SX SE-R, and see what he thinks.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> So, basically, you just have plugged in an SR20DE ECU, used the SR20DE injectors, and used an SR20 MAF? No other sensors?


That's correct. Just those three items, and no other sensors at all. OBD-II could be another matter altogether. I dread ever having to own a '96 and up car, with all of that check engine light crap. It will be interesting to see how you make out.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Awesome setup! All of the people trying to do things on a budget take note! This is the research and dedication it takes! Nice work man!


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

wes said:


> Awesome setup! All of the people trying to do things on a budget take note! This is the research and dedication it takes! Nice work man!


Thanks very much Wes. Your help is always much appreciated. 


Mike


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## Dan9 (Sep 18, 2004)

very cool build and a good informative thread. Thanks.


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## fleck (Jan 12, 2007)

i like it... but modification of the kit isn't NECESSARY in any way for a stock 93 sentra 1.6 right?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

fleck said:


> i like it... but modification of the kit isn't NECESSARY in any way for a stock 93 sentra 1.6 right?


The kit is intended for the '95-'99 B14 cars, so yes there will be some things you will have to mod slightly. The charge piping will have to be modded a bit, as the location of the throttle valve is slightly different from the B13 GA and the B14 GA [Intake manifold is different]. The front pipe _may_ also have to be tweaked as well. I don't know for sure on that, as my car is a B12 with 4WD no less. I have not installed one of these on a B13 chassis.


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

Great job Mike. Set-up looks very clean. With the boosted GA would that put you in a different bracket in your ice racing competition scene?


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## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Very nice, looks like a good cheap setup.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

I just looked at the install pics. again and I did not remember seeing them. Few points of interest to me. 

The manifold appears to be pretty good. How far down is it before the cylinders meet or pair? I think that manifold could be quite good with an extrude hone thrown on it actually. (not that there is anything wrong with it now...) I would like to see someone use that manifold on a larger T2 series turbo and bust out a high HP setup on a budget. I think it can be done on the cheap! 

The oil and coolant fittings are nice also. 


For the $ the kit seems pretty darn usable for sure! I would like to see someone dyno. out the turbo that comes with the kit to see what they could squeek out of it power wise. I realize that is not everyone's goal but it would be helpful for people interested in the kit to have a basis of what can be achieved. 

Again hats off on a nice build! 

Lastly how has it been holding up, what about ice racing?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Mervic said:


> Great job Mike. Set-up looks very clean. With the boosted GA would that put you in a different bracket in your ice racing competition scene?


Yes, the unstudded Street Legal Class cars are supposed to be stock. The fast ones aren't, but it would be hard to hide a turbocharger in tech, [lol]. This "stock" rule only gives the newer more powerful cars an advantage. For example, even with this small turbo setup I am still shy about 75 h.p. to a stock WRX anyway. I did take a ride up to Maine this winter to race with another club where they don't have the "stock" engine rule. I use the car more for winter rallying than ice racing now anyway. I finished fourth overall in the Vermont winter tsd rally. I'm really having a lot of fun with it!


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

wes said:


> The manifold appears to be pretty good. How far down is it before the cylinders meet or pair?


Thanks Wes, I can't accurately remember how far the dividers extended into the individual ports. I'm guessing maybe 3"? Although it won't help answer your question, here's another pic of the out of the box manifold. I gasket matched, and polished the runners slightly before I installed it however.










wes said:


> Lastly how has it been holding up, what about ice racing?


It has been holding up perfectly, but I didn't put many miles on it this winter. Maybe 1,500 miles or so.

Pic from Vermont Winter Rally this past February with four studded Nokian Hakka-2's on it:


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

I love the wagon man, that thing is badass!


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## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

That last pic with the lights on, it is such a perfect sleeper car. Your car is a great example on how car should look and function.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Thanks Guys. 

Here's a summer pic from back when I still used the car in the warmer months.


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

Blown, I noticed on your B12 wagon that you do not have the lower A/C bracket on your GA16DE. Is there a way to remove this without hacking at it with a cutting wheel to separate it from the alternator bracket? I need to either remove or cut apart my A/C bracket on my GA16DE to make my T25 turbo exhaust elbow clear.

I am using the TSI turbo manifold and do not have A/C if that helps.

In response to Wes's comment on the TSI manifold, I am going to be running a T25 at around stock boost with 370cc injectors, S-AFC 2, and Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. I'll give everyone a heads up on how it performs on both the GA16DE and in a B12.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

BeyondBiscuits2 said:


> Blown, I noticed on your B12 wagon that you do not have the lower A/C bracket on your GA16DE. Is there a way to remove this without hacking at it with a cutting wheel to separate it from the alternator bracket?


No, I hacked mine up with a hack saw. It took quite a while! Bob LeGere originally gave me the idea to lighten the ridiculously heavy cast iron bracket. The effort is well worth it in weight savings alone.


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

Thanks for the info. Now I just need to figure out where to hack it at, and make sure to leave enough support for the alternator and belt tensioner. Wish me luck...

I asked my friend (who previously owned my T25 turbo) about the clearance issue in regards to the exhaust elbow, and he told me my elbow is stainless steel. I think, if it is easier, I'll take it to an exhaust shop and just have them heat it up and bend it at a tighter angle to clear the bracket. I'll have to see how much they'll charge (shouldn't be too much).


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Cut the bracket! I cut mine and shaved a LOT of weight hanging off the front of the motor. You do not need much to secure the alt....


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## RallyBob (Nov 29, 2005)

Yup, best way is to chop the bracket. I cut Tim's bracket right below the alternator mounting point...only two bolts remain to hold the 'new' bracket to the block, which is more than enough for an alternator. I also drilled holes randomly in the remaining portion of the alternator bracket. IIRC, I managed to knock 9 lbs off the front of the car this way.

Bob


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## BeyondBiscuits2 (Jan 18, 2006)

I assume you left the two mounting bolts for the belt tensioner? Could anyone who has done this "hack" post a picture so I can have a better reference?


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## Dan9 (Sep 18, 2004)

is the bracket the same for cars that didnt come with AC?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Dan9 said:


> is the bracket the same for cars that didnt come with AC?


Yes it is.


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## sinning (Mar 28, 2008)

This is what forums should be about information that is needed because at a certain time we all asked questions and this thread answered many thanx. and you have one hell of a set up man good luck


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## Dan9 (Sep 18, 2004)

heck yes I cant wait to hack my bracket! 310 do you have any pics of the hacked bracket in question?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Dan9 said:


> heck yes I cant wait to hack my bracket! 310 do you have any pics of the hacked bracket in question?


No, but like RallyBob said a few posts ago, just take it off and cut it. When you look at it, it will be obvious where to cut it.


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## plouche (Apr 25, 2006)

blownb310 said:


> There is one detail that I haven't finished with yet. The VTC system. Throughout all of these years I thought I knew how it worked, but I never really did until now. I always assumed that the intake cam was normally advanced for good off idle and low rpm power, and then retarded for more top end power after a certain rpm. After reading the factory manual, that's not how it works at all. To my surprise the intake cam's normal position is in the top end phase most all of the time. But under certain conditions: [engine coolant more than 158 deg. F, engine load high, and between 1,500 and 4,300 rpm's - and then again after 6,600 rpm's to keep you from blowing it up and warranty claims down] the ecu will turn the VTC solenoid on which advances the intake cam, which in turn shifts the torque curve to a _lower_ rpm in the band. This was quite a surprise to me. I have purchased an adjustable rpm "window" switch and will connect it shortly to turn on the VTC briefly between 1,500 and 4,000 or so like the factory did. Who knows, maybe it will spool the turbo quicker. I'll let you all know how it works out, but frankly I'm not expecting much from it.


How did this turn out?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

plouche said:


> How did this turn out?


This is my winter car and it is currently off the road until late November, so I won't know until then. But like I said, I'm not expecting much from it. It runs fine without having it connected.


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## nissannx (Feb 29, 2004)

blownb310 said:


> This is my winter car and it is currently off the road until late November


It's winter. I'd like to hear some updates!


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

nissannx said:


> It's winter. I'd like to hear some updates!


Yes winter's here. Nothing to update yet as I just got the car out of storage yesterday. Got a late start this year. I've got to get some general maintenance things done first before any more tuning is done. Like I said a few posts ago in this thread, I'm not expecting much from the messing with the timing of the vtc system. 

Looking forward to 4WD and boosting again this winter though! Especially with $2.00 a gallon premium. :thumbup:

Mike


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## OuttaHell (Jan 2, 2009)

Oh my god...I just read the original post and I am completely floored. This is EXACTLY what my father wants. He said he had one when he lived in peru (not boosted or anything but a 89 4WD B12). I am so envious! I want to build one for him now @[email protected] thank you Mike for sharing that project with us even though I'm really new here so this topic is ancient by the internets calender. 

Cheers

-Hiro


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Welcome the boards Hiro. I hope you can find a decent example of one of these cars. Texas certainly is a good place to find rust free cars. I'm not sure if the dealers down there sold these 4WD versions though. I have no idea what regions they were officially sold in, but the only ones I ever seem to hear about are in the northeast and places like Colorado. Snow belts basically. Let us know if you find one. They seem to be quite rare and of the small number of them left, most are rust buckets by now.


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## OuttaHell (Jan 2, 2009)

Thanks for the welcome Mike ^_^. I'll let you know if I find one. So far texas has been good to me on cars, HORRIBLE roads for tires+pizza delivery, but good on cars and parts. 
I showed my father your car and he got all nostalgic about his back in peru. I wanna give it to him before he gets too old to have some fun! 

Is there a site you have btw with more pictures of your 4WD? I'm sure he'd love to see more of it, if possible.


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

OuttaHell said:


> Is there a site you have btw with more pictures of your 4WD? I'm sure he'd love to see more of it, if possible.


No problem Hiro,

In fact I started a new thread for all 4WD B12 Sentras *HERE*.

If anyone's got any B12 4WD pics or stories please add to them to that thread.


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## sinning (Mar 28, 2008)

WOW that was REDONCULOUS!!!! yes you heard right REDONCULOUS thats among the greatest nissan projects ive herad of great job, great set up b12 wagon you are the first


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## falcon021084 (Jun 17, 2009)

hey mike, nice project you did here, i love how u did everything within the budget (2k) very nice indeed, it's a shocker to me cause i am planning on getting that turbo setup for my car, n i was a bit confuse on the fuel system management, u really clear my head about it. I decided to follow ur foot steps on this, I am new to this so please bare with me newbie I bought the stock se-r injectors and se-r maf, the se-r ecu is currently being tuned for my 93 ga16. first question. this question could make me look stupid but hell the se-r maf sensor has a different socket from my ga maf wire, did u made the ga wire fit without cutting it? if not, i have the wires for the se-r's, but if i were to cut i don't know which wire goes to which on the ga wire


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## falcon021084 (Jun 17, 2009)

falcon021084 said:


> hey mike, nice project you did here, i love how u did everything within the budget (2k) very nice indeed, it's a shocker to me cause i am planning on getting that turbo setup for my car, n i was a bit confuse on the fuel system management, u really clear my head about it. I decided to follow ur foot steps on this, I am new to this so please bare with me newbie I bought the stock se-r injectors and se-r maf, the se-r ecu is currently being tuned for my 93 ga16. first question. this question could make me look stupid but hell the se-r maf sensor has a different socket from my ga maf wire, did u made the ga wire fit without cutting it? if not, i have the wires for the se-r's, but if i were to cut i don't know which wire goes to which on the ga wire


-_- wasted money on this maf, this apparently wasn't for a b13 sigh anywho, i got the right one that fits right in. i am going to dedicate myself on this turbo kit, i am going to try to squeeze w.e hp it could give me on this car with mike's setup.


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## Eyor (Jul 7, 2009)

*suspension*

I just bought a 87 4wd sentra wagon. I am able to find front shocks but am trying to find rear shocks/suspension for it and am not having any luck. Does anyone have any recommendations?


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Eyor said:


> I just bought a 87 4wd sentra wagon. I am able to find front shocks but am trying to find rear shocks/suspension for it and am not having any luck. Does anyone have any recommendations?


The rear struts are unique to the 4WD models. They are longer. The only place I could find that had them was Nissan. My dealer parts man found a set about 8 years ago for me. There may be more, so check with your local Nissan parts dept.

If not, I would imagine that you could possibly match up your old ones and find struts from another make/model car that can be swapped in. 

For the rest of the rear suspension parts, again I got all of mine from the dealer. I replaced both rear control arms and all of my rear bushings last winter. Bought all of the hardware too, as the bolts and rear eccentric cam toe adjusters were all frozen and had to be torched off. The bushings weren't actually bad, but after burning the bolts off with a torch, they all [of course] melted.

Let us know what you find. 

Mike

P.S. Can you post a few pics of your new ride?


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## TOOQIKK (Jul 11, 2009)

mike hats off to you and all you have done for the b12 awd family!!
and wes you are the man! I have seen you beat a maxima with your whip!!
I am very inspired to see what i can do with my wagon!!


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## blownb310 (Jun 10, 2002)

Just an update for my B12 wagon this winter. Most know that nowadays I only use this car in the winter months, from December thru March, hence the lack of an intercooler. I use the car for winter TSD rallies and dabble a bit in ice racing with it as well. So each year I get the car out of indoor storage and spend a week or two doing maintenance and upkeep. Chasing and warding off rust is always job #1 and I spend a lot of time keeping the chassis up to snuff each year. In addition to that, this winter I also replaced the weary front Monroe Sensi-tracs struts with a pair of B13 AGX 's and realigned the front end. I also mounted a new set of Winterforce tires on the SE wheels. Lastly I added a B13 strut tower bar that I got off of a '91 E model parts car. Here's a recent underhood pic.


















Salty northeast winters are the tough on any car, but they are also the best time of the year to enjoy an AWD car. So the rather large amount of labor and time invested to keep a car like this alive and healthy is well worth it to me. B12's are a rare sight in upstate New York these days. And this car continues to surprise a lot of much newer and far more expensive cars on the slippery roads up here. That might be the best part of all.


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## nissannx (Feb 29, 2004)

blownb310 said:


> Just an update for my B12 wagon this winter. ... So the rather large amount of labor and time invested to keep a car like this alive and healthy is well worth it to me. B12's are a rare sight in upstate New York these days. And this car continues to surprise a lot of much newer and far more expensive cars on the slippery roads up here. That might be the best part of all.


Keep working at keeping the rust away and continue to shock people with by passing them. There's no question, that's why I work on my B13 the way that I do. I just haven't followed the FI path ... yet!


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## TOOQIKK (Jul 11, 2009)

mike im always inspired by what you have done....
as i am now in the process of building a gti-r powered awd-t 87 wagon!
have a thread started about the build.
will be making trip up there some time after it is done so not one but two wagons can do some serious damage on the ice!


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