# death wobble fixed, easy



## sailormanbigd (Feb 1, 2011)

Hi newby here. I just bought a 1997 pathfinder 4wd and had the death wobble where the rear end shimmies back and forth. Did'nt do it when i test drove it but noticed next day. I surfed the problem and found this site. After a few hours review decided to buy the lower trailing arm bushings at 4x4parts.com. I purchased the urethane doit yourself bushings. There the ones that each bushing is in two pieces to allow a shadetree like me to install them. I blocked the front wheels and borrowed an impact wrench and got busy. It was quite easy to get at even with the truck not jacked up. I removed three #10 brake line mounting bolts then used the impact on the arm mounting bolts. The bolts would only breake loose with full pressure(125psi) from my old compressor. Tapped out the studs and the arm droped right out. I read to use torch to remove old bushings from somewhere and gave it a try. Heated the outside diameter of the arm for several mins and taped the rubber out with a small framing hamer, and quenched the arm in a bucket of water so i would'nt forget it was hot-been there done that- and repeated on the other end. Then i got the new bushings and they were too big to fit the hole. I called 4x4 parts to find out whats up and the told me that i had to remove the metal sleeve that used to be the outside of the old bushings. I used a sawsall with metal cutting blade and made two cuts about 1/4 in apart and then used a cold chisel to peal the piece of the sleeve out of the hole, then the rest of the bushing was easy to tap out. Installed the new bushings and inside sleeve on both ends of the arm and slid into the mounts under truck. Had some trouble getting the front of the arm into its mount, tight. I used the stock jack to lift it into place but the hole did'nt line up front to back. Tried a few tricks but what worked the best was starting the truck and i think putting into drive and easing off the brake peddle while my bud watched for the holes to line up. Then just tightenned everything up-tadda. Then did driver side, only difference was i had to remove a plate with two #12 bolts to get access to nut for front mount. 
Took it for a test ride and all i can say is WOW! what a diference, the wobble was gone, the truck cornered better and felt more stable overall. I am no mechanic, have wrenched on all my previous vehicles out of neccesity-lack of money to pay mechanic, but this fix was fairly easy, took about 2 hours total time and i dd'nt remove any wheels and tires or jack up the vehicle. I did use the stock jack to lift the forwart arm into place though. So, death wobble fixed for around $100 and 2 hours or so my time. Hope this helps somebody get at it. 4x4 parts are the go to guys for me, they helped me out of my own stupidity, fast shipping, etc.:givebeer::givebeer:


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## sailormanbigd (Feb 1, 2011)

*and then:*

now i'm awaiting the delivery of the air hoist 1000 spring helpers for my wimpy pathfinder's rear end. I put about 30 landscape bricks in the back with some other stuff and the axle bottomed out! i mean like 300 lbs. I tow a boat and actually use the pathy suv for utility. Will let you know about the helper airbags install and if it works. again 4x4parts.com-no, no affiliation with them at all.


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## laxman0324 (Oct 1, 2007)

Good to hear you had an easy time with it! My bolts didn't come loose with a 300psi impact wrench, I spent hours cutting 4 bolts out. Replace the upper control arm bushings too and you will be shocked at how stiff the rear end becomes, what a ride!

If you do a lot of towing and throwing heavy things in the back you might want to consider some lift springs. On any R50 they are mild (2" at most) but they are incredible for holding loads with no sag. I had 1000lbs of pellets in the back of my 01 Pathfinder twice and it barely sagged and had no issues over bumps in the road.


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## gesown (Feb 8, 2014)

*Remove arm bolts easily*

Easiest way to loosen bolts is to use a floor jack. Attach one wrench on bolt firmly against frame and attach second wrench on nut. Align second wrench with lift on floor jack and use the jack to unscrew the nut. Works like a charm. Make sure that you are unscrewing bolt.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

*Death wobble - hoping for update please!*

I just bought a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with 136,000. Bought it used, probably too quickly, but I needed a vehicle in the price range....so, it's mine now.

Have replaced the front control arms, and the death wobble is still there. 

My question is, would you replace just the lower rear arms, or the upper and lower rear arms....

Could use some input soon please! 

Thanks!! 

~ Pat


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## gesown (Feb 8, 2014)

Both upper and lower trailing arms replaced.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

*One more question....*



gesown said:


> Both upper and lower trailing arms replaced.



Is it still going to wobble if only the lower are replaced? Safety is important of course, just trying to keep expenses down if I can and still get rid of this! 

Thanks!


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## gesown (Feb 8, 2014)

The wobble will be reduced but not go away.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the bushings are sold separately.. but pressing them in/out could be a issue if you do not have the tools.. as stated above, it would be wise to replace both upper/lwr...


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## gesown (Feb 8, 2014)

The bushings may actually cost more than the arms depending on what you find. Ebay offers arms quite reasonable although you may have to remove extra brackets.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

*costs....*



gesown said:


> The bushings may actually cost more than the arms depending on what you find. Ebay offers arms quite reasonable although you may have to remove extra brackets.


I have a friend who used to have a shop who still has many of the tools, however, he cannot do the bushings alone - they require the press tool, so the front control arms, he replaced both of them in something like 30 minutes total, but that did not get rid of the wobble. 

The cost for the Dorman lower and upper trailing arms is about $360 total, so that is what I am looking at for cost. While money is an issue, I am thinking (and I don't know for sure!) that if the upper need to be done later, it would involve removing the lower ones again to do it, am I correct or does anyone know that? 

I am ordering the parts today or tomorrow so I'm just trying to figure out the right way to do it. It will be all street and highway driving, it's a 2WD, but I want to be safe and NO WOBBLE! 

Thanks for the help!!


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## gesown (Feb 8, 2014)

Ebay lists them for about half that price for a full set. Don't mess with a half job. Take the time to do it right.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

Thanks for the input and information. I have opted for replacing the upper and lower trailing arms, and will use what can be purchased locally, just in case of an issue. I just don't want to have my car wobbling on the freeway or surface streets....other than this, (and the error code on the CD player, which is no big deal, I'll upgrade the radio at some point), I have heard good reports on the vehicle, even buying new....so if anyone has any other comments on what to look out for, please let me know!

I don't change cars anymore very often, my Explorer was almost 20 years old when she finally gave up, or I gave up!! 

Glad I found this place!! 

~ Pat


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## qx4'n (Jun 4, 2003)

I have a set of rear upper control arms on order for my 98 Qx4. Does the vehicle need to be jacked up to safely/effectively replace the parts?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I think it would be difficult to do without jacking the vehicle up.


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## qx4'n (Jun 4, 2003)

I probably should have rephrased my question. Accessing underneath the vehicle should pose no issue for me. I mainly would like to know if jacking the vehicle at say the rear differential or other locations will take tension off the rear upper control arms allowing for quicker/more safe replacement? Or if it matters?


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## qx4'n (Jun 4, 2003)

qx4'n said:


> I probably should have rephrased my question. Accessing underneath the vehicle should pose no issue for me. I mainly would like to know if jacking the vehicle at say the rear differential or other locations will take tension off the rear upper control arms allowing for quicker/more safe replacement? Or if it matters?


Well paid a local shop labor to install my rear upper control arms and glad that I did. My ride is about 80% improved? Agreed...replaceing the lower arms would likely get my ride up to 100%.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

I have had the lower arms replaced, on the drivers side, the upper arm has a stripped bolt, which I have read is a common occurrence. 

I'm going to replace my front two tires (back ones are new) and get an alignment and see if that takes care of the little bit of pull I am still getting....it is nothing at all like what was happening.

And, I had a friend replace the ones that were done. He used to have a shop, so he had the way to jack it up and has the compressor to use to remove the other bolts....it took him less than 30 minutes to do the lower arms. And, when I do replace the upper ones (was told by a mechanic I can wait to do that), I will get the parts from Rock Auto....never knew about that site until now....and I spent far more than I needed to - lesson learned!!


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## qx4'n (Jun 4, 2003)

PatNewbyAZ said:


> I have had the lower arms replaced, on the drivers side, the upper arm has a stripped bolt, which I have read is a common occurrence.
> 
> I'm going to replace my front two tires (back ones are new) and get an alignment and see if that takes care of the little bit of pull I am still getting....it is nothing at all like what was happening.
> 
> And, I had a friend replace the ones that were done. He used to have a shop, so he had the way to jack it up and has the compressor to use to remove the other bolts....it took him less than 30 minutes to do the lower arms. And, when I do replace the upper ones (was told by a mechanic I can wait to do that), I will get the parts from Rock Auto....never knew about that site until now....and I spent far more than I needed to - lesson learned!!


Coincidentally that's where I puchased my uppers... $36/each.. A marked reduction in the wobble that it once experienced. I also put a $100 brand new distributor in from rockauto yesterday. Truck runs great for 170k miles. The distributor was like 50% less than the retailers on amazon.


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## PatNewbyAZ (Aug 18, 2014)

*Need some more advice please!!*

I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder....have replaced the front control arms; the lower rear control arms (upper control arm bolt is stripped and my buddy couldn't get that one off); replaced two tires (now all of them are almost brand new) and had an alignment. The alignment did show that the "toe" was way out of alignment and that has been corrected. 

I am still feeling like the vehicle is a little on the "mushy" side when driving on the freeway at higher speeds. So, this is my question - should I look at replacing the shocks and struts now? And, how can I tell if this is what I should do? I bought the vehicle, used, a couple of months ago and need to make it as reliable as possible, so if this is the next step, how do I determine what needs to be replaced? 

I'd like to order the parts from Rock Auto, I have two places I can go for repairs (depending on the amount of work it's going to take, one is a friend who used to be a mechanic, but only has some tools, things like tools to remove a stripped bolt are not something he has, or a shop that will allow me to bring in the parts. 

How much should the labor be, and what parts would any of you recommend getting? 

Thanks for the help - I truly hate feeling like the "helpless female" and this forum has been a great resource for me!!


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## djens (Nov 8, 2019)

PatNewbyAZ said:


> *Death wobble - hoping for update please!*
> 
> I just bought a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with 136,000. Bought it used, probably too quickly, but I needed a vehicle in the price range....so, it's mine now.
> 
> ...


i had death wobble- 2001 qx4
bought upper and lower arms from ebay
replaced the uppers first - death wobble gone 
lower arms are more difficult but should replace eventually to further stabilize rear end 
but lower arms are the main culprit in my experience.


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## djens (Nov 8, 2019)

djens said:


> i had death wobble- 2001 qx4
> bought upper and lower arms from ebay
> replaced the uppers first - death wobble gone
> lower arms are more difficult but should replace eventually to further stabilize rear end
> but lower arms are the main culprit in my experience.


CORRECTION : replaced the lower arms first - the longer ones
sorry for the dislexia


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