# Pics of my soundproofed doors (finally)



## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

I started this project last summer and it took me tell today to finally post some pics.

I just put the finishing touches on, one last layer of FatMat. It’s finally Perfect!


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## Guest (May 8, 2003)

And you did this... why??


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## dry (Oct 21, 2002)

how does it sound compared to NON soundproofed doors?


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## Fonque (May 1, 2002)

where did you mount the crossovers in the door? like behind what part of the panel?


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

duh its stops rattling from the component set and from the woofers when you really got the system cranked


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

bgriffey said:


> *And you did this... why?? *


Sound Quality! 
With soundproofed doors my Polk EX component system sounds awesome. With high highs and low lows the acoustical spectrum is amazing. The soundproofing blocks all the road noise out while at the same time keeps my stereo sound waves in. 




DryBoy said:


> *how does it sound compared to NON soundproofed doors? *


I can hear every musical note/tone crisp and clean while doing 70 on the freeway. Granted road noise still comes in from the floor and sunroof but the overall db level in the cabin is perfect. It was well worth it IMHO. Funny cuz I get to do it all over again soon when I buy my 200sx SE-R. Floors and more this time.




Fonque said:


> *where did you mount the crossovers in the door? like behind what part of the panel? *


You can actually see the crossovers in the pictures. Look at the seatbelt contraption and you’ll notice a small box with 6 speaker wires coming off it. I had to remove the cover/top off each crossover to get a perfect fit. Clearance issues come into play when you stash an x-over in your door. Also you may need to get at the crossover for one reason or another so you can’t just burry it and forget it.


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

bgriffey said:


> *And you did this... why?? *


 \

do you even know what sound deadner does???


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

by the way you did a better job than me on my doors (pics later) i just went behind everything on the door itself... very good job


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

Yeah, I did that. VB-1 covers the entire inside of each door. 

Man, if i had only done that sooner I'll bet i'd have fewer door dings.


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## Guest (May 10, 2003)

Oh ok... you're one of those guys that will need a hearing aid at age 40...
Boom Boom!
Can ya hear me now?... lol


*Sound Quality! 
With soundproofed doors my Polk EX component system sounds awesome. With high highs and low lows the acoustical spectrum is amazing. The soundproofing blocks all the road noise out while at the same time keeps my stereo sound waves in. *


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

bgriffey said:


> *Oh ok... you're one of those guys that will need a hearing aid at age 40...
> Boom Boom!
> Can ya hear me now?... lol
> *


* 

Do you even grasp the idea of what sound deadner does???? just because it will increase the level of volume in the car doesnt mean hes going to crank it all extra loud.... If you where to do your whole car in the same material in your "V" then got on the freeway you wouldnet have to turn it up as loud to drown out the road noise which means your speakers will last longer

Can you hear me now? *


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

Honestly! We could go into hundreds of reasons why soundproofing your car doors is beneficial to your audio system… but frankly I don’t think that would have anything to do with what this particular post is about.

I’m simply showing the 1000’s of other Sentra owners out there what kind of job soundproofing your doors is… and happily answering any questions they may have on how to got about doing it them selves, or what the finished results look and sound like.

So if anyone would like to know more please DO ask.

As far as why anyone would want to go about doing something like this… well, I’m just gunna have to let you go ahead and figure that out on your own.

Best of Luck!

Seth


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## Guest (May 17, 2003)

I have my doors soundproofed but not to the extent you did your doors. Nice job!! How long did it take you to do that and what material did you use?


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

About 5 days was all. I took my sweet time and only put in about an hour a day if that. It's good not to rush because the VB-1 needs some time and 70 degree heat to dry quickly.
I just left my car parked in direct sun. 

If you would like to read the step by step check out my original post. 

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?threadid=3433&highlight=soundproofed


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i think for my next car im going to do a spray on sound deadner just cause its a whole lot easier.... What happened to bgriffey
he had so much to say earlier on?


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

ccroaddog said:


> *What happened to bgriffey
> he had so much to say earlier on? *


I think you scared him away! No worries, he really had nothing productive to add anyway. 



It's true, the spray on deadener was quite easy but it takes multiple coats, we're talking 6-10 to get the same kind of deadening. I put between 4-5 coats and it was good but nowhere near as good as the combination of Fatmat/VB-1 spray. 

I personally would consider using a little of both as an alternative to using lots of just one or the other, IMHO.
s


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## Binger (Aug 29, 2002)

I've only deadned the outer skin of my front doors so far (all I could afford at the time) and around the baffel for my speakers.

I was so amazed because it cut down on the road noise so much.

I DON'T HAVE TO TURN IT UP AS LOUD TO HEAR EVERYTHING

I also am doing SQ competition so i can't afford to have any rattles or outside noises coming in.

I plan to do my doors that extensivley eventualy along with my whole car too.

When I did my doors it got hot enough that day for the Dynamat to cure then it got cold that night so it only stank for one day.


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i need to get those pictures develpoed when i did my whole car(mostly) and show you why i want it to be easier next time around


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

so how do you go about doing this? like with dynamat or whatever, do you use just small strips, or completely cover the door panel with it? also, did you put it on the door panel, or the actual door itself? and where can you buy the spray deadener at?


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

try to use as large strips as you can and use a heat gun or blow dry-er to help the deadner mold to the car.

I put it on the door itself


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

go4broke44 said:


> *so how do you go about doing this? *


Pop the door skin off and clean all the gunk, glue, and grime off the door. Lightly sand then contact areas if need be. Once clean begin applying the sound-deadening product. 



> *like with Dynamat or whatever, do you use just small strips, or completely cover the door panel with it? *


Use Dynamat, FatMat, Peel & Seal, what ever you want. I start small using little bits to fill indentations and uneven portions. Once the surface is level I start in with the big sheets. Cover 3 to 4 time s for best results. Yes, use a heat gun so it will last.


> *did you put it on the door panel, or the actual door itself? and where can you buy the spray deadener at? *


I put 3 - 4 coats of Cascade Audio VB-1 on the interior of each door and 1 coat on the door skin it self. This took the most time and patience’s because each coat had to dry before you can add another. Once completely cured I then added the foil covered FatMat to the outer framework of the door like you see in the pics. 
Believe it or not CarToys is a Cascade Audio distributor. Call your local CarToys or car audio shop and ask if they carry Cascade Audio sound deadening products.


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## omega (Jun 27, 2002)

I'm about to use the VB spray, I've already stuck a layer of dynamat over my doors and the inside of the panels, my trunk lid is filled with expanding foam, I just need to start spraying the inside of my trunk and some of the engine bay and wheel wells.


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## FletchSpecV (Nov 26, 2002)

Looks nice man. I bet it sounds awesome, .


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## go4broke44 (Jan 14, 2003)

dont you have to take the glass and everything out, to get to the actual door? since i know when you take the door off, theres like that layer of plastic, or weatherseal i guess they call it


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## nomov8 (Dec 9, 2002)

i dropped 40 feet of Second Skin Damplifier in each of my doors, along with 10 feet of open and clsed celled foam. I would have to say that my doors are sound proof as well. My entire king cab has about 300 feet of Damplifier in it.


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## Sentra_Industies (Oct 31, 2002)

Has anyone tried to fill empty spaces with the Expanding Foam stuff in the can???? If so, results?


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## Tickwomp (May 27, 2003)

how much does all that material cost anyways? i might wanna do it since i just got my sound stuff in. dont want it rattling or NEThing like that.


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

Tickwomp said:


> *how much does all that material cost anyways? i might wanna do it since i just got my sound stuff in. dont want it rattling or NEThing like that. *


100sq ft of FatMat cost 100 bux. Add that to the 75 bux I spent on 3gallons of VB-1 and you got 175 in the hole. 
Granted I only used >50sq ft of FatMat and only ½ gallon of VB-1. 
So total cost of just the materials I used was about 62.50 – tax included. 
I would highly recommend exploring cheaper alternatives like Peel&Seal and water based silicone concrete compounds found at you’re local home improvement store. You can do a lot with very little just do some research. 
Save the money for stereo gear I always say!
Good Luck 
s


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

ccroaddog said:


> *i need to get those pictures develpoed when i did my whole car(mostly) and show you why i want it to be easier next time around *


i got my pics finally

this is how my car would look at a russian chop shop









looking thru front windshield









looking thru passenger door (yes that is 1/0 gauge)









in the trunk









you cant see all the deadner here its on the outer part of the door










i dont have a picture of my new car yet but this car is the same color the only thing different is that i dont have the projector headlights (e-codes) yet and i think im going to do C4 or C2 racing harts


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

[kung pow]That's a lot of dynamat![/kung pow]


How much weight did all that add?


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## pearsont74 (Oct 1, 2002)

looking good...


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i used i think about 80 sq ft total and it did weigh down my car alot thats why i told my self just to do a turbo bigger than the t25 when ever i was going to do a swap


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## Fonque (May 1, 2002)

i know alot of people dont agree with this, but you do not need to lay dynamat all over every panel of your car. Yes that does queit the roadnoise. But if your doing it becuase things are rattling and distorting the sq of your speakers. Then you only need to put deadening material on the area immediately surrounding a speaker, not the whole car.

On my nx i just cover the hatch since thats where the subs will be. And i covered an area around each speaker in the door and around the speakers in the rear. I think iused about 30 sq/ft total.

I only wanted to stop any rattling caused from the speakers i didnt care too much about elimination road noise


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

I did it because i didnt want any sound to get outside and i wanted it to sound better inside. When you have more than 1300watts rms in subs and speakers you tend to not want a lot of sound to leave the car since i spent the money for my ears not everybody elses


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## PrOxLaMuS© (Aug 11, 2002)

the only thing that sucks abotu sound proofing.. is the damn weight


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## Modernmav (Jul 2, 2003)

*kool*

kool


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

Thants one hell of a sound proofing job! 

Looks great!






PrOxLaMuS© said:


> *the only thing that sucks abotu sound proofing.. is the damn weight *


There are ways around the weight issue.


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## FletchSpecV (Nov 26, 2002)

Sethticlees said:


> *Thants one hell of a sound proofing job!
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> ...


Like what? Don't leave us hanging. Lata,
Fletch


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## Webfoot (Apr 24, 2003)

*What? WHAT?*



bgriffey said:


> *Oh ok... you're one of those guys that will need a hearing aid at age 40...
> Boom Boom!
> Can ya hear me now?... lol
> 
> ...


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

Re: There are ways around the weight issue. 



FletchSpecV said:


> *Like what? Don't leave us hanging. Lata,
> Fletch *


Cascade Audio VB-1. 
http://www.cascadeaudio.com/prod/vb1.html

You could coat your entire car with the stuff and it would only add about 30lbs dead weight once it dries.

Use in combination with a mat product and you could have complete sound deadening that weighs in under 50lbs.

That’s apposed to the hundreds of pounds you’d use if you only used a mat product.

There’s ways to save weight on speaker boxes as well.


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## Fonque (May 1, 2002)

yeah you can save weight on speaker boxes use smaller subs  thats what i did anyway i got 2 10"s in 2 separate boxes and the total weight is less than 30 pounds


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

Fonque said:


> *yeah you can save weight on speaker boxes use smaller subs  thats what i did anyway i got 2 10"s in 2 separate boxes and the total weight is less than 30 pounds *


I wish I could do that, but the 12" sub I'm getting is 25 lbs all by itself, then you have the box on top of that


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## Fonque (May 1, 2002)

well i kinda cheated  

The 10"s i got are cdt mini subs. they are only 4 inch mounting depth and the box they need is only .45 cu/ft.
But then i thought well if the subs are so small, then why not make a really small box. So i used only 1/2" MDF instead of 3/4". That saved me a majority of the weight. 
I thought the subs wouldnt sound good with walls that thin on the box but it turned out fine just the right amount of boom. plus because of the Dmat xtreme i layed down you can hear them with the hatch closed.

I think i did pretty good for my first set up


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## Exalta (Jan 21, 2003)

Fonque said:


> *yeah you can save weight on speaker boxes use smaller subs  thats what i did anyway i got 2 10"s in 2 separate boxes and the total weight is less than 30 pounds *


I saved more weight by going freeair though my speakers arent..stoopid...though i saved a lot of weight that wouldve come from having extra carpet and a speaker box
I mounted mine on the rear deck.I still use the original rear deck,i just put dynamat on it and used longer mounting screws (ditched the clips in favor of metal screws)to raise the rear deck level so that the speaker magnets do not hit the annoying horizontal bars in the trunk just below the rear deck.Oh yeah,i also cut the metal (enlarged the current speaker holes)so i could drop the speakers right in


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## Fonque (May 1, 2002)

that free air idea i didnt even think about, but unfortunatley i dont have a rear deck to put speakers on as im driving an NX


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## sr20dem0n (Mar 19, 2003)

normally putting subs that aren't made for a freeair setup in a freeair setup sounds terrible, I've heard it myself and wanted to puke


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## Exalta (Jan 21, 2003)

yup,they dont thump that low and they dont sound crisp enough.


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## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

about the door pannels, does fatmat help stop the rattling of the interior panels? I have all my interior rattling with the sound from my shitty stock speakers I don't want to know how it will sound with aftermarket ones.

Ok, now, I don't want to do my whole car, I know I need my doors, maybe the rear deck, and maybe..maybe my trunk for a future sub. Anything else you suggest? How much do you think this work would cost if I had a local stereo shop do it?


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