# Poor Performance on 1997 Pickup



## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

Greetings,
Im experienceing Poor Performance on 1997 Pickup, on the HWY. between 40 -55 MPH. and idle has been sort of erractic slightly.

about 3 years ago, I was getting blow smoke on start up only, so had garage re-build the cylinder head, and they (in my opinion) not so good of a job.
Neverthe less, not getting good performance 

This is a 97 Pick-up, XE Body, ABS Breaks, 2.4 Liter 4 cycl. automatic trans, 198K Miles, with no modifications.

What would be first steps in getting performance out of ....her, it, "the thing"?

Driving slow in Tampa. aka shut trip.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Several items to address:
- Replace spark plugs and air filter.
- Replace O2 sensor.
- The fuel injectors may be dirty. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job. 
- There may be a major vacuum leak in the intake system. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
- Run a compression test on all the cylinders to determine the general condition of the engine; standard is 192 psi, minimum is 142 psi.
- The CAT may be plugged up. An easy test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the exhaust system.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

Thanks for the Recommendation, Very detailed.... May take a few weeks to post the results. 

By the By, your the comments " CAT may be plugged up " the CAT is a after market installed by Midis Muffler shop.

The original Catalytic Converter was cut out in my work place parking lot. Come to find out, another guy I know has 97 nissan pick up and his CAT was chopped out while in a school parking lot.


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

I'd recommend pulling the codes first, to make sure your truck isn't in limp mode.

You have ODBII, so a code reader would work. The rest of us do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6l7SwU7ZuVk

Then, I'd add the distributor cap and rotor to rogo's list:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2FoKyooox8


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

Yeah, I m hopping to turn some wrenches on the Pick up soon. I took it to a local dealership recently for a oil leak. At the same time they performed the "free" 20 pt inspection, and they also gave me a list of stuff it needed. So hoping to do most of that list my self soon. Have to say, the Dealer, (Ferman Nissan, in Tampa FL) earned some points for not pushing my buttons, like some places do.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Shut-Trip said:


> Thanks for the Recommendation, Very detailed.... May take a few weeks to post the results.
> 
> By the By, your the comments " CAT may be plugged up " the CAT is a after market installed by Midis Muffler shop.
> 
> The original Catalytic Converter was cut out in my work place parking lot. Come to find out, another guy I know has 97 nissan pick up and his CAT was chopped out while in a school parking lot.


Catalytic converters, especially Asian converters, get pretty good money at the scap yard. I had someone cut the rear converter off my 97 Hardbody when it was parked in my driveway


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

One more symptom on my truck:
Early this morning - ( 6:15 AM 1/25/2015 ) as I was backing up from out of a parking spot, noticed a large plume of smoke and steam. Apparently out of the Exhaust pipe on the driver’s side. It was nearly half the size or volume of the vehicle itself.

I would have never noticed this plume of smoke and or steam out of the Exhaust. However, it only visible in the pre-dawn darkness and other car head lights from another vehicle approaching my truck slowly along the parking lot.

I would be interested in the source / or cause of that plume of smoke and steam.
As I have certain repertory issues, and any smoke irritates any type of cold I may be suffering at the time.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

AS they say, a journey of a thousand miles starts with on step.
So, I have printed out the recommendations, and have in paper form. That way,
when I get started I can just go to the "Check -list" from the post #2 and post # 4 of this thread...


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Have you checked the codes yet?

This poor performance you are trying to get rid of: Has it been that way ever since you had the head work 3 years ago or is it something new?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Shut-Trip said:


> One more symptom on my truck:
> Early this morning - ( 6:15 AM 1/25/2015 ) as I was backing up from out of a parking spot, noticed a large plume of smoke and steam. Apparently out of the Exhaust pipe on the driver’s side. It was nearly half the size or volume of the vehicle itself.
> 
> I would have never noticed this plume of smoke and or steam out of the Exhaust. However, it only visible in the pre-dawn darkness and other car head lights from another vehicle approaching my truck slowly along the parking lot.
> ...


If you are starting to notice a lot of vapor coming out of the tail pipe since the head work was done, it could be due to improper installation of the head resulting in a possible blown head gasket. Are you loosing coolant? Do you see any air bubbling in the radiator fill tube?


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## tomit (Jul 2, 2004)

Blown head gasket - either water in the oil; or combustion gases in the water, which are supposed to be detectable by a tail pipe sniffer. Either way a bummer.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

jp2code said:


> Have you checked the codes yet?
> 
> This poor performance you are trying to get rid of: Has it been that way ever since you had the head work 3 years ago or is it something new?


Checked codes: got one code: P1165 SWL Con VL Switch. not sure what that one means. 
Also, the truck always sounded like a "boat motor" after the head rebuild, but couldnt really say performace dropped off at that junction though.

next few days - should be able to get a wrench on the beast.


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## Conicelliparts3094 (Jul 29, 2014)

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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Shut-Trip said:


> Checked codes: got one code: P1165 SWL Con VL Switch. not sure what that one means.
> Also, the truck always sounded like a "boat motor" after the head rebuild, but couldnt really say performace dropped off at that junction though.
> 
> next few days - should be able to get a wrench on the beast.


Internet to the rescue!

*P1165 Nissan - Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch*

*Possible causes*

 Clogged hose to Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch
 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection
 Faulty Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
 Faulty Swirl control valve control vacuum check switch	

*P1165 Nissan Description*
The swirl control valve control vacuum check switch detects vacuum signal to the swirl control valve, and sends ON or OFF signal to the ECM.

When vacuum is supplied to the valve, the swirl control valve control vacuum check switch sends OFF signal to the ECM. The swirl control valve control vacuum check switch is not used to control the engine system, it is used for on board diagnosis.


Read more: P1165 Nissan Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

Hello, I checked the location of the SCV _ Module, and checked with dealer on prices, ($130 range). and hooked up a Bosch Vac / Press guage to a port on the intake. 
Press was about 20 If I recall. 

Theres bunch of vacume lines in the area of the engine compantment. 
I check the vac on one of the lines from the SCV Module, and measured vac 20 in HG.
I did get that code initially, ( P1165 ) ...
Im just woundering for $150 bucks, 
are these code from the Code checker 100% reliable?


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## jp2code (Jun 2, 2011)

Mine is a 1994, so I can't use a code reader. I have to count the blinks.

The code tells you where something is messing up. It doesn't mean that sensor is broken. There could be a frayed wire or anything else causing that sensor to report a bad value - even some other part of the engine messing up could cause the bad value that the sensor is reading.

For example, if a code says "bad vacuum at Point B", that could mean the vacuum sensor at Point B is bad, or it could mean something is wrong at Point A that isn't generating enough vacuum for the sensor that reads it at Point B.

That's the fun of troubleshooting these problems. It costs you nothing but time to figure it out, or you can take it to the dealership and pay them to spend time chasing it down.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

Yeah, I checked a few of the vac hoses, some where too dry'ed up to pull off the nozzels.
by the by, I did a little research on the Swril Vac Control and it turned out the system was patented by two or three Nissan Engineers in the 1980's. 

From what I read, it appears that the purpose is to control or assist in the combustion "swril" as air and or fuel enters the cylinder. just FYI.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

" per other posts I'd recommend pulling the codes first, to make sure your truck isn't in 
limp mode. 
Checked vac lines around problem module that the code id'ed. disconn. bat term. for about 2 seconds. and rechecked with code reader. after reading the trucks computer, we got Two New Codes!!! 

But the radio still had the presets saved, so I disconnected the battery a second time, this time for about 5 minutes, and I turned the key to power on the dash lights and I turned on the dome light too.
This time after recon. the battery, the check engine light was no longer on. Thanks for every ones help, very satisfying to fix it my self.


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

tomit said:


> Blown head gasket - either water in the oil; or combustion gases in the water, which are supposed to be detectable by a tail pipe sniffer. Either way a bummer.


:nerd:

Havent notice any signs of blown head gasket, no noticalble bubbles in Radiator, however, not thrilled with color of coolant. Hope to check out further, and perhaps post pics of engine/Radiator/Ect.

Forgive me for slow response time in post, I work in a help desk as a computer tech:nerd:


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## Shut-Trip (Oct 18, 2012)

smj999smj said:


> Catalytic converters, especially Asian converters, get pretty good money at the scap yard. I had someone cut the rear converter off my 97 Hardbody when it was parked in my driveway


was just re-reading the post... I also have a 97 Nissan Pick up, and had the cat converter sawed out.. AT WORK.. yes, while I was at work, went to lunch as thought my muffler must have fallen off.

Also, a guy I know has a 97 Nissan Pick up, and his Cat was sawed of while at a school parking lot.

They really like the 97 Nissan p/up's.


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