# Newly purchased 98 Altima - What needs doing?



## julieone (Sep 25, 2007)

I recently purchased a 1998 Altima with (get this...) 20,000 miles on it! Nice little car for my 16 year old daughter. I've already done an oil change, air filter change, tires rotated. It has a torn boot that I'm getting repaired (and axle replaced) this weekend. Dealer drained and replaced antifreeze/radiator fluids. 

Is there anything else I should do for maintenance right now? One mechanic suggested that I drain the brake system and put in new fluids, etc. I'm thinking maybe the fuel fitler as well because it could easily be the original and in the car for the last 9 years. This car was literally a "little old lady driving to church" car who's son inherited and traded in on a new Lexus. I have no repair/maintenance records but figured not much can be wrong with only 20,000 miles on it. Drives nicely.

The only problems I've noted is the cruise control not working (blinking but doesn't engage) and forum seems to indicate it might be airbag problem. Also, when sitting idling the air conditioner stops throwing cool air; car interior warms up rather quickly. And only other item is the temp gauge twitches at speeds over 50 mph (but never gets into the HOT zone - stays in the normal range but moves all over the place). Other than that no problems, no weird noises, nice idle, good gas mileage.

So experts, any advice about what to do now to keep it in tip top shape for a new driver?


----------



## flir67 (Oct 17, 2005)

the fuel filter is the best thing you could do for it right now.fuel filter is very easy to install but a nissan dealer will do it for 50.00 bucks give or take. its a 10.00 part

as for the temperature gauges jumping all over the place. could be a loose ground wire or a sensor. go over all the bolts with wires attached to them to make sure you don't have anything loose. 

only other thing is the power steering fluid flush. 20,000 miles for that year just doesn't sound right, but it ifs true you got a good deal. 

check the underneath the car from rust on the bolts,etc. I did the histry on mine via that carfax or what ever its called. and found out it was from the north looked under it and sure enought their was corrison on the bolts. I primed the entire underside of my car in black primer. then regreased all the bushing,bolts,etc. runs quiet as a mouse. 

good luck


----------



## julieone (Sep 25, 2007)

Thanks flir67. It's a one owner car originally purchased in Austin, TX and the dealer provided the entire CarFax history for me as well. Was in Austin until I purchased it in the Dallas Fort Worth area. Elderly lady who drove on average 1400 miles PER YEAR (I do that every 2 weeks or so) and her son inherited it and immediately traded it in on a Lexus. His loss, my daughter's gain!

Car has always been south of any ice/snow so body is in great shape; no rust outside/underneath or under the hood. So it's going in for boot repair this weekend and we'll just do the fuel filter at that time. It's a trusted mechanic so I'll ask about draining brake system and power steering fluid as well. I'm turning it over to the 16 year old in about 2 weeks so I just want to make sure it's good to go for her. :woowoo:


----------



## jo31b (Oct 24, 2007)

If your temperature gauge problem is the same as mine here is what is happening.


Symptom:

You said that it, "twitches at speeds over 50 mph"

Check:

Your upper radiator hose clamps onto a metal pipe on the top of your engine. This will be on your left as you face the engine compartment from the front of the car.

There is a sensor screwed into the pipe facing the front of the car ans it has a single wire going to it.

The part of the sensor that the wire plugs onto is riveted to the sensor. This rivet comes loose and you can see it if you gently wiggle the wire. If you have someone in the drivers seat with the ignition on with the car warmed up and you wiggle the wire, the gauge should start to move like you described, or it will go up and down more slowly.

Fix:

They want more for the sensor than I was willing to pay, so I took a small punch and gently dented the edges of the rivet to put better tension to the connection. I would have soldered it, but I don't know if that kind of heat would have damaged the sensor to make it stop working completely.

If you do buy a new one, drain a few liters (quarts) of coolant out of the rad first to save you a mess and to protect all the little animals that like to drink the stuff when it puddles on the ground  I would top the radiator up with fresh coolant and recheck the level later to make sure all the air got out of the system and add more if needed.

Here are some images and a video explaining what I mean.

Don't mind the tool list picture, I reversed the colour for dramatic effect.:lame: I included the awl to show that any metal tool with a point can be used in stead of a centre punch, but a centre punch is best because it is designed for this type of stuff.









I put on my safety glasses, then I put the centre punch on the very edge of the rivet to get it to push down more on the electrical terminal it is holding.









Don't mind the East Coast accent eh! It is a bit pronounced; I don't notice it unless I hear myself talk. This is my first time trying to use photobucket.com for a video so we will see how it goes.


I hope this works for you, it has been working for me since I bought my car in April.


----------

