# Eibach Pro kit



## Alti9 (Apr 13, 2005)

Why does Eibach's web site not list anything available for the altima?


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## Marvin (Oct 16, 2002)

Probably hasn't been updated in a while. You can find them for the Altima at any number of sites.


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## Alti9 (Apr 13, 2005)

Thanks. How difficult is the install on these? Special tools required at all?


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## mrnoname (Feb 24, 2005)

im not sure if the altima camber kits are the same for your year as the 93 to 97. but if it is all the camber kit is, is a cam bolt. very easy to install and adjust. i have the eibach on my alty. jus make sure its real tight or yu will hit a bump and your camber will go way negative. :balls:


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## Alti9 (Apr 13, 2005)

mrnoname said:


> im not sure if the altima camber kits are the same for your year as the 93 to 97. but if it is all the camber kit is, is a cam bolt. very easy to install and adjust. i have the eibach on my alty. jus make sure its real tight or yu will hit a bump and your camber will go way negative. :balls:


Im mean the spring install, not the camber kit.


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## craigqc (Feb 10, 2005)

spring install is fairly easy if you know what you are doing. youll need a spring compressor for the fronts. you can rent one from pep boys or some plce like that if you dont have one. other wise its an easy install. with a prokit you will be ok without a camber kit. if you go with sportlines you'll need the camber kit.
ill see if i can find you a write up.
dont forget to get an alignment!


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## craigqc (Feb 10, 2005)

this write up is from altimas.net
Instructions credited to Altimat.


First you need to get the car off the ground. If you don't have a floor jack and jackstands, the Nissan jack will work - one corner at a time!

Tools needed:
Jack and 1-4 Jackstands
Rental Strut Spring Compressor ($9.50 for 4 hours)
14, 17, 19 mm Sockets, Ratchet, 3" Extension
17, 19mm Wrench
Flat Screwdriver
Lug Wrench

I have to recommend using a torque wrench and factory torque specifications during reassembly(I didn't). There also appeared to be some thread lock on the suspension bolt threads so you may also want to pick up some thread locker and apply a few drops to each fastener during reassembly(I did). Please be careful so you don't hurt yourself and have to sue me!


Front first - remove the brake line clip with a flat screw driver and a bump from your palm. Remove the brake line from the bracket. Remove the ABS sensor wire from the two holders if present. Remove the 2 large 19mm nuts from the lower strut bolts (17mm heads), then remove the bolts.


Now remove the sway bar link. Hold the hex on the back side while removing the nut.


Loosen the top center strut bolt (do not remove). Support the suspension with a floor jack, or have your helper support it while you remove the three upper 14 mm nuts. (these are under your hood)


The struts will fall right out.
The next step is to swap the springs on the struts. I used a rental spring compressor and followed the instructions included. Alternatively, you could bring the struts to a shop and have the springs changed for a nominal fee.
If you elect to do it yourself, clamp the springs with the compressor. I was only able to grab one coil spacing due to the lack of coils on the OEM spring, and the threads on the compressor bottomed out before the spring pulled away from it's perches, however, there are plenty of threads on the upper strut nut and tension was fully released before the nut was off. Remove the upper nut, upper mount and gray washer thingy. Replace the OEM spring with the Eibach, which only fits one way. Align the notches top and bottom, and reinstallation is the reverse of removal, except that you don't need the compressor. One person applying pressure to the assembly while another starts the nut worked for me. Just snug the nut for now, it can be fully tightened after installation. The upper mount holes are assymetrically spaced to insure proper positioning during reinstallation. There is a thin gasket between the strut mount and body that remained stuck to the body on my car.


The rear couldn't be any easier!
First support the lower control arm (do not lift it, just support it) as shown. Then remove one bolt - 19mm nut and 17mm bolt head same as the front lower strut bolts. Then lower the jack and the lower arm will drop. Pull out the jack, and push the lower control arm down even farther to remove the spring and the upper and lower bushings.


And slip in the Eibach!...but first, reinstall the upper bushing. Crawl under and you'll see some metal tabs in the upper perch that engage slots in the bushing. Place them over the tabs and then turn them 1/8 turn and they'll hang there. Reinstall the lower bushing lining up the notch. Place the spring into position (with the labeling right-side-up!) on the upper bushing, and rotate it to align the lower end of the spring with the recessed notch in the perch. The top is not notched.
Then lift the arm up with the floor jack to align the bolt hole. Reinstalling the bolt effortlessly requires that the lower arm be twisted slightly. I inserted a 1/2" breaker bar horizontally through the two large holes near the outer end of the lower control arm to twist it in the right direction. I assumed that this is why those holes were there!


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## Alti9 (Apr 13, 2005)

craigqc said:


> spring install is fairly easy if you know what you are doing. youll need a spring compressor for the fronts. you can rent one from pep boys or some plce like that if you dont have one. other wise its an easy install. with a prokit you will be ok without a camber kit. if you go with sportlines you'll need the camber kit.
> ill see if i can find you a write up.
> dont forget to get an alignment!


Thanks. Ive done springs on a mustang before, but they use a modified strut in the front, which was fairly difficult. I suppose the alti will be much easier.

Altimas.net banned me (bunch of assholes on that sight) so thanks for the install guide.


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## craigqc (Feb 10, 2005)

no prob, whatever you need, lemme know


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## Smitty 3.5 (Dec 13, 2004)

Alti9 said:


> Altimas.net banned me (bunch of assholes on that sight)


There are a few of us on this forum that are also active members of A.net.  

With the proper tools, changing all 4 springs should not take long at all. It took me about 30mins to do both fronts.


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## Marvin (Oct 16, 2002)

Smitty 3.5 said:


> There are a few of us on this forum that are also active members of A.net.
> 
> With the proper tools, changing all 4 springs should not take long at all. It took me about 30mins to do both fronts.



I can tell you that A.net is not thought of very fondly around here. I was a former member.


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## Alti9 (Apr 13, 2005)

Mark said:


> I can tell you that A.net is not thought of very fondly around here. I was a former member.



Why is that? Because of all the rude idiots who think they know everything when they really dont have a clue?
Just curious if others get the same feeling I get about that palce.


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## Smitty 3.5 (Dec 13, 2004)

Alti9 said:


> Why is that? Because of all the rude idiots who think they know everything when they really dont have a clue?


Thanks  , however I don't feel that I come off in that way. There are some knowledgeable people on there but I will admit that there are many who fall into that category.


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## Marvin (Oct 16, 2002)

No, the problem is that there are too many 16-20 year olds who think they know everything. It's so convoluted that you can't pick out the good info from the people there that just run their traps.

Here its a little different environment. Has the same "criminal" element, just not as much of it.

Plus the moderating team here has a completely different philosophy than over at a.net.


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