# 95 Hardbody VG30E Valve Ticking / Ping



## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

Hi,

I have a 95 Nissan Hardbody Pickup (XE-V6 4x4 w/VG30E engine) with 84,000 miles on it (yep, eighty-four thousand). It recently and suddenly developed a pronounced valve tick while on the road. I have owned the vehicle for 10 years and have actually changed the oil more frequently than 3k miles due to not putting many miles on the car and changing it on time interval instead of miles. I run AmsOil 5w30 (5w30 as recommended by the manual). 

From inside the vehicle, the valve tick is a very clear *tick*tick*tick*tick* sound, but from inside the engine compartment, the audible detail includes a distinct *ping* for every tick -- sounds a bit like a valve shooting back to position. The sound is clearly coming from the right-side under the valve cover. I actually feel like I can narrow the sound to being from the front-most cylinder on the right-side of the engine. The sound does not go away after warming the vehicle up and under load, the tick/ping just becomes more pronounced (e.g., 4-wheeling, starting up a hill with heavier throttle, etc). Higher RPM's are hard to judge whether the sound is gone or just obscured by higher RPM's. 

My question is, since I am using good oil that is known to have a good detergent package, am I looking at a sticking lifter from deposits or a collapsed/defective lifter that just needs to be replaced? If a bad lifter, has anyone done this job and about how many hours might it take a pro mechanic to do the work (I work about half as fast as a pro mechanic)?

I noticed another post on this topic that included two recalls on this year/model/engine, but they appear to have been active before I owned the vehicle (I've owned it for 10 years). Because of that, I'm really just looking to fix the issue either with an engine flush or by replacing part(s). 

Any help / tips would be appreciated on what the issue would seem to be and what fixes you might recommend.

Thanks,

Peter


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## Ding1 (Dec 7, 2012)

Sounds like you have a exhaust leak or hole/crack in the manifold that opened up while ya were drivin.Maybe your gasket developed a hole/split in it.Other than that I would pull the suspected side gasket cover if your absolutely sure it is from there and check for any broken valve springs.Have someone crank the engine over(pull the ignition coil wires so it doesn't fire) and watch what happens.You'll see if there is a non functioning valve and/or spring.The "ping" throws me.I would invest in a pair of those "mechanics stethoscopes" and listen to where it is coming from.Just a thought.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

I agree with Ding1. You've gotta do a little more investigating to narrow down the source.

-R


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## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks for the replies. I ran AmsOil Engine Flush to see if it would affect the lifter. It seemed to help a little, but I can't really be certain yet. The problem now appears to be intermittent -- when the engine has been stopped for a bit after driving or from a cold start, it becomes louder. After pushing the engine for a while (everything is all warmed up), it seems to go away almost entirely. I suppose that could be an exhaust leak. When it is making the sound, it's just a very pronounced ticking sound made under load at the low/mid-range on the throttle. The ticking just gets louder with more throttle at lower RPM's. Higher RPM's appear to mask the intensity of the tick. 

Looking at the engine, it looks like the valve cover is trapped under the intake plenum -- though, my Chilton's manual says nothing about removing the plenum to pop the valve cover. Any experience there?


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## veesix (Jul 18, 2004)

The plenum is complicated. I'd leave it alone for now and try what Ding1 suggested. Pick up a mechanics stethoscope (they are about 9 to 12 bucks) and get under the hood with the engine running. If you can get the engine to start ticking, you will be able to pinpoint the location in 1 minute.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

While broken exhaust studs are very common on VG30E engines, bad lifters are pretty common, as well, as these engine get older. Often they'll tap for a little while, then be quiet, then will tap for a little while, and so on. The hardest part of the job is removing the upper plenum and getting the nut loose on the EGR passage tube without have the EGR valve snap off inside of it.


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## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks, all, for the replies. Sounds like my next step will be the stethoscope to narrow down where the sound is coming from. I'll definitely look for broken exhaust studs. Though, from some of the info in the replies, the lifters are again my top suspicion -- the tick seems to come and go, but mostly go after the vehicle is entirely warmed up after a period of driving.

Would bad lifters cause the engine to consume oil? I've never personally dealt with lifters, so I won't really be able to answer that myself until I pull one and see how they're implemented. I seem to be burning somewhere near 300 mL per 1000 miles, which seems really high considering my '94 Sentra with over 230k doesn't burn more than 200 mL over 3000 miles with an entirely stock engine with no engine repairs. 

I'll update with progress...

Thanks again!


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## Ding1 (Dec 7, 2012)

valve guides/seats and piston oil rings,engine oil plug seals,gaskets like that from the valve cover and oil pan,could be going through the head gasket(check coolant like below suggestion),oil filter leaking,plugged PCV valve/hose come to mind.Does your engine have puddles of oil when it sits and/or do ya see smoke from the exhaust.Check your radiator for oil or foam in it.It will look brown and maybe foamy.

You can pick up a auto stethoscope from harbor freight for about 5 bucks,sears,auto zone or any auto parts store,those will be slightly more


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Forget to mention rear main seal, which is very common leak on the VG engines! If there are no external leaks, a cylinder leakdown test can help determine a poor sealing issue due to rings or head gasket.


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## Ding1 (Dec 7, 2012)

That was the item I was trying to describe>Rear main seal.(engine oil plug seals).I have a way wiff words.SMJ to the rescue.Mine is due for a change but I haven't cuzz it keeps my engine from rusting and also keeps me from finding anything else wrong that I don't wanna know about.LOL.I did find my rear screws on the valve cover backed off/loosened and was leaking from behind.


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## lumbee (Mar 20, 2005)

Not sure if KA24 (4 cylinder) and the V6 have the same lifters, but this intermitten ticking/pinging of lifters if pretty common. I have noticed my truck seems to do it more when I get close to being time for an oil change. My truck has done it since I've had it (8 years) and it does not seem to be an issue. More annoying than anythign else.


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## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies -- I just picked up a mech stethoscope, so updates will come soon about what I find. As for leaks -- the truck doesn't leak a drop, the antifreeze is perfect green (replaced within 5k miles), and the exhaust studs appear to be in tact. Though, I will be checking the exhaust studs if the stethoscope doesn't turn up bad lifters. My guess is still lifters since the problem seems to go away once the vehicle has been fully warmed up; It doesn't seem likely that the exhaust studs are broken with that symptom. I should know more soon. The front main seal was replaced with the timing belt a couple years ago. The rear-main seal hasn't been touched since the transmission hasn't come off the truck yet. Wouldn't I be experiencing clutch problems if the rear-main seal was bad? Otherwise, the truck has been meticulously maintained for the last 10 years (or 40k miles). The first 47k miles of it's life are somewhat of a mystery, though, since I bought it used from a dealer. It's looking more and more like the previous owner was a deuce who didn't change the oil or some such.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You wouldn't have clutch issues if the rear main seal was leaking; the oil would just sling around a little in front of the flywheel and settle at the bottom of the bellhouse and leak out. 
With the exhaust studs, noise disappearing as the vehicle warms up is a symptom of broken studs, because as the exhaust manifold heats up, it expands and the clearance between the manifold and head decreases, making the area of the leak smaller. Of course, the diminishing noise can also be a sign of a lifter, so in either case it's not a determining factor. 
As far as the comment regarding KA24E and VG30E lifters, they are nothing alike. KA24E engines have tiny lifters that are built into the rocker arms and they are far more prone to tapping than the much bigger lifters used in the V6. VG30 lifters are closer in size to those used on small block Chevys and Fords.


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## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

Sorry for the delayed replies, but I've been on the road with the truck and hence gathering more information.

I got a mechanics stethoscope and started probing around. I might need some guidance on just where to probe and what's abnormal. So far, I have methodically probed the top of the valve covers. What I found was uniform sound across the top of each valve cover with no significantly louder spots than others. I have checked each point at idle and while revving the engine. While the sound is still loud under load, the stethoscope doesn't register any uneven sound or excessive noise. 

My probing also led me to checking the exhaust covers. The best I can get out of these is an increased pinging on the driver-side of the engine. It isn't really significant or unbearably loud, though. Since both sides have a mild ping under the stethoscope, it is still difficult to isolate the point of the sound. However, the notably increased ping and noise at the exhaust manifold heat shields and varying sound levels at different points almost tells me this is a broken exhaust stud or exhaust gasket. Guidance on a more precise test would be appreciated on this one. 

In being on the road, I have also been able to identify the behavior: First, the sound is made most loudly under load while the engine isn't at full-operating temperature. The sound is also made after stopping the vehicle for a short time. The sound goes away after longer durations of driving and goes away entirely (sounds good as new). The sound is only made under load -- not at idle, and when I say load, I mean under a rapid rev without load or starting up with the clutch engaged at a normal RPM for a gradual start; the sound is also made louder at higher throttle positions, but goes away or is masked by normal engine noise after about 3000 RPM's. Hopefully that helps a bit. 

As far as leaking oil, etc -- the vehicle doesn't leak a drop. I have meticulously maintained it, though I am afraid the previous owner may not have. It is burning quite a bit of oil, even though sub-100k miles. Tells me the previous owner didn't change the oil or some such (I got it with 47k miles 10 years ago). Since it's burning about a quart every 3000k miles, I'm switching to Valvoline Full Synth Max Life, rather than AmsOil. I'm just afraid that the previous owner toasted the rings, valve seals, etc. I just feel like this ticking and the occasional rough starts should be related to the oil burning -- I'd almost rather it be a lifter than an exhaust stud. 

Help always appreciated -- thanks to all who have replied -- the information is invaluable to my diagnosis and repair.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Since you mention the lack of maintenance, it's possible that the reason it's ticking is lack oil to the lifters. I just worked on a 97 Path that had a 1/4" of sludge covering the heads and just as much in the pan. I would suggest you test the oil pressure. As far as the possibility of broken exhaust studs, I usually look around the manifold for signs of black soot or broken studs. Best place to look is from underneath the vehicle and through the wheel well. The rear stud on the right bank is the most common one to break.


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## pgsentra (Mar 2, 2007)

SMJ, thanks for the reply. I will definitely peel back the fender linings to look at the exhaust manifold more closely. If it was the lifters, would I be able to hear that with the stethoscope by probing the valve covers? All I hear is the cam quietly going about its business, even when revving -- the tick is loud when revving but with no notable ticking sounds perceived through the stetho. I will look into the oil pressure, too -- I'll start with the exhaust manifold, tho. 

Thanks again --


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If it was lifters, you should be able to hear them with the stethoscope on the valve cover.


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## pap6ma (Jun 13, 2013)

I have a 95 HB with 141,000 on it and a KA24E that had valve tick at start up and after highway driving. It got to the point that it ticked all the time. I believe the #4 exhaust valve lifter wasn't working and it fouled out #4 plug. 
I changed the oil with 5w30 and I put Marvelous Mystery Oil in and added it to the gas as directed. Within 2 tanks of gas the ticking completely stopped and hasn't returned yet. I believe I had to much oil in also and it caused the oil to foam up and air bound #4 cylinder exhaust valve causing the tick. I don't know if keeping the oil under full or the Marvelous Mystery Oil fixed it or the combination. My truck runs like when I bought it 2 1/2 yrs ago and I will always have Marvelous Mystery Oil in it. 
I tried Lucas, Seafoam and STP and they didn't help and I believe they might have thickened the oil and made it worst at the end. I now keep the oil between 3/4 and 7/8's full.


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