# Opinion needed



## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

I'm in a bit of a dilemma. I don't know if I should go with a single optima battery and rewind my alternator or if I should use 2 optima batteries with an isolator. Gimme me your opinions guys.


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

won't you still need the higher output alternator with a second battery, even with an isolator? i was debating about a second battery in my car, but i figure an 80amp alternator cant keep up. i know the isolator keeps the 2 batteries seperate, but once that second one starts to drain, i dont think my alt would be able to keep up

i'm interested in this as well

as far as gettin the alt rewound, i wouldnt. rewound alt's seem to burn out much quicker than purpose-built HO alt's. i know the stinger ones are $$$, but i'm sure there are a few other companies out there they make them. may need a custom bracket to bolt it up though.


you drive an expedition, right? why not add a second alt instead of a rewound. im sure a second stock alt would give you the juice you'd need to maintain 2 batteries, and you sure as hell have the room for it under the hood


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## Bumpin (Feb 18, 2003)

When I had my 240 I had 2 batteries without an isolator and a stock alternator and my lights didnt dim for shit. I'm just wondering what you guys suggest. Cuz of my buddies told me somethin that made me think, which was "what if that alternator goes out?" It would be easier to replace $100 battery than a $500 alternator.


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## Jasper (Apr 2, 2004)

Bumpin said:


> When I had my 240 I had 2 batteries without an isolator and a stock alternator and my lights didnt dim for shit. I'm just wondering what you guys suggest. Cuz of my buddies told me somethin that made me think, which was "what if that alternator goes out?" It would be easier to replace $100 battery than a $500 alternator.



hmm, i may consider the 2nd battery option then (if i have dimming problems, i dont know if i will yet)

about the HO alt going out, thats why i mentioned running a SECOND stock alt. in an expedition, they've gotta be at least, what, 120amp?
a second alt would bring you to 240amps total, although a bit trickier to wire...would definately be cheaper (you'd need a new acc. belt though), and if the alternator failed, get another stocker out of the junkyard / lappens remanufactured alt.

for you, i think a second alt would be the best bet. (2 alts + 2 batteries)


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## wickedsr20 (Aug 8, 2002)

I agree with the dual alternators. Works very well for a lot of people that I've seen. If I had an SUV, that's the route I'd go right off the bat.


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## Azgrower (Oct 1, 2004)

Either upgrade you choose, you need to be advised you should upgrade your wiring as well, especially if you get a HO alt. Why do you need to spend 5 large on an HO alt? Contact Dominick Iraggi, he does custom alts, I have one for my 2000 Chevy silverado, 220 amp (and does that at idle speeds too) for under 4 large. There are cheaper and better than Stinger alts. You could get your factory one re-wound but it wont even touch the amp rating at idle. Be aware that most amp ratings are taken at 3-4k rpms.

Iraggi Alternator
[email protected]
615-287-7991
615-594-8965

Very friendly guy to work with and will fill all your needs.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

When I was searching for a power solution to an honest 2k watt set up, I enquired about the stinger alternators. The people at Dashboards in Raleigh told me that alternators made by places like Stinger and car audio suppliers are usually not durable. They are made for competition, and dont stand up to daily driving. He installed, and subsequently replaced 3 of them. None lasted more than 8 months. I asked him what he recommended for a power solution, and he suggested dual batteries. Using a Sears Die Hard to run the car (it was free) and a yellow top for the stereo, I never had a need for power. My headlights never dimmed. I originally had a switch (sorry, don't remember what brand it was) that automatically sent power to the car bat 1st, then charged the optima. AFter a week, it was broken (refurbished part anyway) so I wired the batts parallel with nearly equal sucess. This was run by an old Chrysler 75 amp alternator. Voltage was originally 14 ish volts, after loading the 2nd bat in parallel w/o switch it put out 13.6 consistently.

What the guy at Dashboards said about it is that my reserve power was something like 2 hrs at full output with the car off, much longer with it on. He said there was no way I could listen to my system long enough at full power to kill my batteries. He was exactly right, most of the time it was less than half way up, and the system charged fine. Drove that car problem free for 2 yrs, till it got stolen. So there it is, my story... I hope it helps you a little.


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