# I decided to replace the transmission filter - bad idea...



## epmedia (Sep 16, 2012)

2007 Versa, 4spd auto.
Removed the trans filter (screen) before coming here to ask.
That long bolt has a nut and washer floating around somewhere on top of the valve body now.

:lame:

Can that nut and washer end up somewhere very undesirable?

I read this, and am concerned what my best option is; mess it up more than I already have, or risk future damage, lol.
http://www.nissanforums.com/ga16de-1-6l-engine/102723-automatic-transmission-filter-screen-change-valve.html


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Out of the 12 bolts for the screen, the one long bolt is at the outer edge of the valve body. I don't know if you'll be able to get to the loose nut/washer with a very small magnet mounted on a flex tube. If the nut/washer are sitting in a small recess within the valve body, then you're out of luck. There are two of these long bolts/nuts/washer that hold the three valve bodies together. Leaving that one bolt out may cause problems in the future. Read through Ralliart16's procedure very carefully and if you're up to it, give it a shot. Just very careful with any springs/balls that may fall out and get lost. Good luck!


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## epmedia (Sep 16, 2012)

I tried a small earth magnet, attached to a long zip tie. Darn thing sticks to all the bolts in it's path, lol. Almost got it stuck a few times, hoping that I'd have to say 'fuk it" and pull the valve body just because.

I don't believe this crap. All they had to do was tap a nut into a hole to make our lives easier, or just threads like the rest of the screen bolts. Or like in the thread I linked - where the person put the bolt in backwards to ease future servicing.

I'm investigating the valve body and wires right now, fml, lol.
And my darn printer is busted 

Edit: thanks for the luck, I need it about now!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan used a similar design on the old 3-speed AT's used in the 80's. Normally, when servicing, you don't touch the screen; you simply drain and fill. The thinking is that if there is enough debris in the fluid to restrict the flow through the screen, it is due to a clutch pack failure and the trans needs to be overhauled, not serviced. If you know anything about automatic transmissions, they're right! Some people will insist on removing the pan and will spray down the screen with brake cleaner. IMO, it's more work and a waste of time, for the forementioned reason. Any metallic debris will likely work to the bottom of the pan; if it's steel, it will likely end up on the magnet on the pan. I doubt that the nut will cause any issues if left there and will likely fall to the bottom of the pan and get stuck to the magnet. It's unlikely that you will develope problems if you don't install the bolt and nut, but it is possible. I guess it's better to be safe than sorry and go ahead and reinstall it. One important thing is that if you decide to R&R the valve body, make sure you have an inch-pounds torque wrench and follow the proper tightening sequence when reinstalling. Most of the Nissan valve bodies I've worked with only spec around 72 in/lbs of torque; overtorqueing or uneven torqueing can cause the valve body to warp...and then you will have issues! Also, be careful of the ATF you use! If it's a 4 spd. AT, then it likely calls for Nissan Type "D" ATF, which is the same, or at least similar, to Dexron/Dexron II. While it may state that Dexron III can be used, it is best left for topping off the system as necessary rather than for servicing the transmission. Dexron III has a thicker viscosity and has been known to cause valve sticking in the valve body. Other than genuine Nissan Type "D" ATF, two widely available options are Valvoline Maxlife ATF and Castrol Multi-import ATF, which are both recommended for use in Dexron II applications.


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## epmedia (Sep 16, 2012)

Thank you smj999!
I have 2 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife ATF for it ($24 each).

I had to make a transparency from my computer screen with a sharpie, for the correct bolts to remove, since my printer is broken 

The valve body came out nicely, along with another Qt of fluid, one big spring (I think just one spring!) and 3 rubber washers (seals). I did not have to remove any solenoids (as per linked thread), I only had to unplug the wire harness.
I'll have to call my son to tell him "bring home the torque wrench"!

And, it just stopped raining, lol.

Edit: the owner of the vehicle said he had somebody change the fluid awhile back, yet we believe they used Dex 3 from their store. It seems the transmission is not downshifting properly while accelerating onto the freeway (it also shakes while the engine is lugging). I hope this helps it


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## epmedia (Sep 16, 2012)

epmedia said:


> Thank you smj999!
> I have 2 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife ATF for it ($24 each).
> 
> I had to make a transparency from my computer screen with a sharpie, for the correct bolts to remove, since my printer is broken
> ...


***
Well, crap.
I managed to break the shifter valve/plunger piston.
Screwed the valve body partially in, with a hand driver. Linkage was not lining up.
Shifted it to neutral to align it and all hell broke loose.

Darn steel is weak, pot metal crap?
:lame:

Sorry for my pissy-ness, I've had a bad day related to this...


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