# 2016 Nissan Rogue Power Tailgate Struts



## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Just trying to find a replacement for my 2016 Nissan Rogue Power Tailgate Struts. The tailgate opens all the way but then falls down about a foot.

Looking at the OEM replacement part: 90561-4CL2A. 

Does anybody know what the difference is between the part numbers for 90651-???? eg) 90561-4CL3A, 90561-5AA1A, 90561-4BA4A,etc

Will any of the 90561 parts fit?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

For a power hatch, looks like any version -4BA1A, -4BA3A or -4BA4A (the latest) will work. However, those aren't gas struts, they're spindle motors. If they lift the gate to the top and then drop down, then it doesn't sound like you have bad ones. Chances are you have a mis-calibrated ABD Controller or a bad sensor. Get the DTC's (codes) in your ABD read by the dealer, or someone with a high-end scanner like a SnapOn Solus that's capable of talking to it. Btw, if you simply replace the spindles, the hatch won't work at all until it's reset and calibrated. Same deal, requires a scanner.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

I have an OBD2 scanner that plugs into the car but I haven't found the right program yet to read the codes for the tailgate. Programs like Torque, OBD Mary, MotoData OBD don't seem to have any information about the spindle motors.

Yes, the gate does lift all the way to the top... then it fails to hold it there. So, trying to figure out why? I have held the OPEN/CLOSE button on the tailgate for 5 seconds that will program the lift height into the car. I have to let the gate lower about a foot to make it set the height that will open and hold. But it's to low as it hits my head at that height. Anything higher and it fails to keep the tailgate at that height?!?!?

Not sure what sensor or controller is failing to keep the spindle (power struts OEM - 90561-4CL2A) at the full height. It does work and open to the full height... just fails to stay there!

See video here: 2016 Nissan X-Trail Power Tailgate Strut Video


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Trying to figure out how to use my ODB reader to see the error codes for the struts? Can't seem to find the PID information for that? I can add a custom PID to my reader... but need all the PID information to put in manually?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If it's a regular or mid-range OBD scanner it won't see the ABD. Only high-end stuff like a Solus or equivalent is going to detect the system. Your guess is as good as mine for the specific CAN addy.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Is it possible that its the rear control module that is failing?
I have tried to "set" the height of the door and it won't hold it high enough to walk under.

Since you say the spindles/struts might be ok since they work and lift the gate. What is responsible for keeping the tailgate up and not allowing the spindles to unwind?


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Has anyone tried this and made it work? I just went thru the steps and didn't work for me?


*How to read the engine codes without a Nissan CONSULT or scan tool. (Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II)*

1 Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2 Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3 Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts blinking.
4 Fully release the accelerator pedal.
5 ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Llehmann said:


> Is it possible that its the rear control module that is failing?
> I have tried to "set" the height of the door and it won't hold it high enough to walk under.
> 
> Since you say the spindles/struts might be ok since they work and lift the gate. What is responsible for keeping the tailgate up and not allowing the spindles to unwind?


That's what the ABD is, the controller. Chances are it isn't faulty, most likely it's mis-calibrated or has a bad sensor. Only the codes from it will tell you.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

I google and google this shit out of this topic and look for parts and try and understand what they do!

Looking for "2016 rogue ABD controller" nothing.WTF

And trying to find out what sensors are where, etc, get an understanding of what's happening. I really want to figure out what part is failing and why/how it works. Is it possible to take the spindle struts apart to fix them? Is it possible I just have a blown fuse that needs to be replaced.

NOTE: I actually have a 2016 X-Trail... but there's little to no information on that model at all because its sold in Mexico and UK. So I use the Rogue which is basically the same car to find information on it.

NOTE: There's actually a recall on this very problem but I'll be dammed if I can find someone to verify if I qualify. Here in Mexico Nissan will roll the dice because the people are used to be taken advantage of. 
2014-2016 Nissan Rogue Recalled for Faulty Tailgate Struts » AutoGuide.com News


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The recall was on the gas struts for manual hatches. They were actually dangerous to remove because the piston could detach from the cylinder, we had a special tool to release the gas before taking anything loose. But your car has an Auto hatch, so the recall doesn't apply.

As far as the ABD brain, the parts catalog probably calls it something like, "CONTROLLER - BACK DOOR, AUTO". Nissan frankly makes us nuts with that, part names in our service manuals rarely correspond to the names in the parts catalog. It keeps our parts guys busy emailing DPC, that's for sure. But you need to understand something: Even if you replace the part (which probably isn't faulty), _there is no way whatsoever to configure or calibrate the ABD without a scanner that can talk to it_. You positively must get it scanned, throwing parts at it is a guaranteed fool's errand. Please take my word for this -- Nissan/ASE master tech, electrical specialist, 40+ years. I know what I'm talking about.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Thanks for all the advice and tips. 

I will go get it scanned. But you have to remember that I am here in Mexico. And I don't think they know what a "master tech" or "electrical specialist" is!  

I'm now off warranty. But before that I would always have to check and double check the work after every oil change. Sometimes they would do it... sometimes not. And when they finally admit that they didn't...I get this as an their answer. We have a large window into our service bay where you can manage the work. Seriously. For a while I would let the air out in one tire to see if they actually checked it. 

So... that's why I'm here and doing all the work and research before I go there. Cause I'd be surprised if the guy who finds the scanner knows where it goes and how to read it. No kidding. I will be looking over their shoulder.

Thanks again


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. There's never anything wrong with understanding the situation, that's for sure. If it turns out you know more about your ABD than they do, you can tap shoulders as necessary.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

If I want to change the spindle struts over to a regular gas strut... Which ones will fit?

Will I still need to attach them to a commerical OBD scanner to get the back door release hatch lock to work opening the liftgate? Ir can I just install the gas struts and use the liftgate manual to open and close?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

I'm not sure on either count. I believe the mounting holes for both strut types are the same, but I'm pretty sure the attachment brackets are different so you'd need those along with the gas struts. Without spindle readings the ABD may throw codes that will make it stop working the lock, if so you might need to convert the whole setup to a non-auto. That would be a big job, at least reconfiguring the BCM and possibly replacing it, plus some re-wiring around the ABD. I'd experiment first by disconnecting the spindle motors to see if the rear latch still works normally.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

If one was to go out and purchase a pro OBD scanner... how do I know which one will work and pickup all the codes? Its funny my consumer level OBDII scanner only picks up the "main ones". Why is that... or is it that a the pro reader attaches to the other port and that receives all the codes from the car?

Advice or tips on what OBD scanner to buy? What am I looking for?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

CAN addressing is simple but messaging for DTC's isn't. CAN messages that aren't "emissions related" don't need to be OBD-compliant, and many optional systems like your hatch have DTC's that are specific to the manufacturer. The extreme example is an EV like the Nissan Leaf, most of them speak their own CAN dialect because an all-electric drivetrain is completely exempt from OBD. An OBD scanner connected to them will basically say, "Duh?" I can't advise you much on which aftermarket scanners will work because I use Nissan's C3+ scanner at the shop. We also have a Solus and I know that will read it, but that's all I can tell you. Your best bet may be to contact the individual scanner manufacturers and ask specifically about which models will read your ABD Controller.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Called Nissan and made an appointment for 8:30am this morning. They checked me in on time and I showed the service guy the problem with the rear tailgate falling down. He tried to set the height by holding the button down while the liftgate was at the top and tried it again. It fell if course. So he says I need new power spindle struts because the function isn't working to set the height. Arrrrg. I pull the gate to the half way point and hold the button to get my 2 beeps and set the height. Close and open the liftgate and it stops perfectly in the spot I set. 

Told him I would like a diagnostic report and please show me the codes that the reader pulls out. Perfect. Says it will be ready for 4pm. 

I return at 4:30pm and my X-Trail is parked right in front of service. Ask the service guy what they found only to hear they haven't looked at it yet. Again... Arrrrrg. 

Ask him what the point was of making an 8:30am appointment? No answer. Smiles and says if I want to leave it overnight he will call me in the morning when they are able to have a look at it.

Classic Mexico! 

Ps: Nissan Mexico has always had the worst service I've ever seen. I was kinda happy when my warranty was over so I wouldn't have to use them anymore, but apparently I still do. 
Let's see what happens tomorrow.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That is some _very_ poor service. I feel you, son.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Llehmann said:


> I google and google this shit out of this topic and look for parts and try and understand what they do!
> 
> Looking for "2016 rogue ABD controller" nothing.WTF
> 
> ...


Once you're able to obtain any DTCs from the ABD controller, download a copy of the FSM for a 2014 Rogue from Nissan Rogue Service Repair Manuals. The 2014 FSM data is very similar to the 2016 Rogue. The section to read is the DLK.PDF; It contains all the DTCs their diagnostic procedures. Hopefully this will help.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Returned the day after my initial appointment at 4pm, that would be 2 full work days at Nissan Mexico. Not surprised to find out that they didn't do the work yet. But was surprised as to the reason! They do continue to amaze me. Apparently the service rep that checked me in yesterday was sick today. So none if his work was done. Seriously. At that point, my wife, as me to leave as I started going office to office at the Nissan dealership asking for a service manager. Well, I say I was asking. 

Eventually, I was told that the mechanics were now done lunch and one was coming out to run the diagnostic on the car. Plugged in his reader and said there were no error codes in the system. Took about 5 minutes to run the scan. All tho I was wondering if the tailgate would need to be working at the time of the test to show an error? Asked to see the actual data on the rear struts, sensors or control unit but the tech only knew how to run the scan and either see, or not see, an error in the system. 

He said there is no error because the spindle struts are mechanical and they won't report an error when they fail. 

Again, my wife said I should leave as my patience was running low. I told her that I would leave is she promised not to pay them for the 5 minute scan that took 3 visits to the dealership to get.

Still hot under the collar with built up frustration. Getting no answers or decent service... and agreeing to leave before I said something or did something I shouldn't.... I jumped on my XR125 moto and left a beautiful black donut with my tires on the tile driveway in front of service. 

Maybe not the best thing to do or way to react... but it did make me feel better. 

PS: Don't worry to much about cleaning up the black donut mark ... there are plenty of workers around constantly cleaning the dealership here. Pretty sure if they do a good enough job, they are promoted to the service desk rep and then to mechanic.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Unbelievable. Did you happen to look over the guy's shoulder to see if "Auto Back Door" was showing up on the DTC readout? There's no red flag that pops up when a system is MIA, it will just be absent on the list.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

It was all in Spanish... So I didn't really understand the program on the laptop. 

Other than he hit search or scan and it did a 1 to 💯 I imagine on the system. The car was turned on but not running and the rear tailgate was closed. 

Just seemed odd to me. And trying to explain to my wife who was translating to him I wanted to see the settings for that specific part of the car was not going to happen. 

It's frustrating. That's why I spend so much time online trying to figure things out for myself because nobody is really qualified here. Maybe the guy with the tool box that contains a plunger isn't to bad at fixing the toilet. But as if a month ago... Even he proved me wrong when he cleared my clog and proceeded to reuse the wax ring in the floor. Yes, now I have a leak.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That's deplorable. The only thing I can suggest is perhaps make it throw a DTC that sticks the door, like disconnecting the latch and then telling it to close. Then they'll _have_ to do a door-reset.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Hey @VStar650CL ... what do you mean "make it throw a DTC that sticks the door"? 

1. Would that mean disconnect the rear spindle struts? and reconnect? Would that cause them to stop working? Im not sure exactly what I would do to make them scan the system properly and show me the components I am looking for in the system? 

Or is there a list of all the Nissan sensors and components listed somewhere I can see to point out exactly what I want them to bring up on the scanner?

I did notice that their scanner plugged into the same port mine did. That seems odd to me that I can't download a program to read all the codes instead of only a partial set for consumer vs professional level readers? Is this OBD scanner related or software related?

2. The one thing he said, which actually made sense to me, was he said the sensor was good because I was able to program the height of the door and make it stop at the set height. I think that makes sense? My question would be what actually holds the door at any given height? Is it the actual spindle strut or a piece inside of it that is failing to lock?

3. One other question about the air conditioning in the X-Trail. It's started to fail from time to time an warm up. Not all the time, but intermittently which is why I'm shy to pay a lot for them to look at it. My ODB scanner will only show me that the A/C is either on or off showing a 0 or 1 reading which works fine. I asked them to check it out with the scanner since I would think there should be some pressure, fans speeds, levels of gas, etc to see with the professional scanner?!?! They told me it would be an extra $100 to check the A/C because they need to empty the gas in the system to check it? This didn't make sense to me again so I told them not to do it. Could be right but wanted to look into it first before I call BS on the whole thing. Comments?

Thanks again for all the help!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Llehmann said:


> Would that mean disconnect the rear spindle struts? and reconnect? Would that cause them to stop working?


Any system component that you disconnect and then operate the door will cause the ABD to throw a code and stop operating. Yes, that can be a spindle as well as the latch.



Llehmann said:


> I did notice that their scanner plugged into the same port mine did. That seems odd to me that I can't download a program to read all the codes instead of only a partial set for consumer vs professional level readers? Is this OBD scanner related or software related?


Like I said, the ABD is a Nissan-specific system with manufacturer-defined codes. It doesn't need to be OBD-compliant, so a regular OBD scanner won't detect it.



Llehmann said:


> My question would be what actually holds the door at any given height? Is it the actual spindle strut or a piece inside of it that is failing to lock?


I said at the start I thought your spindles were mis-_calibrated_. If that's the case, there won't be any codes, the door just thinks the upper limit is lower than the actual mechanical stop. He could have done an ABD reset there in the driveway while the C3+ was connected, and I have no clue why he didn't. It's a 15-second operation.



Llehmann said:


> One other question about the air conditioning in the X-Trail. It's started to fail from time to time an warm up. Not all the time, but intermittently which is why I'm shy to pay a lot for them to look at it. My ODB scanner will only show me that the A/C is either on or off showing a 0 or 1 reading which works fine.


If it's intermittent then it may not be pressure, but the system pressure can be streamed by any good OBD reader (the ECM tracks it and the CAN message is OBD-standard). It's also possible that you have a sticky swash-plate inside the compressor. Rogues use variable-displacement AC compressors, the swash plate is the part that physically changes the piston stroke under control of an electronic solenoid driven by the IPDM. These can stick in the "minimum" position and cause low cooling performance until they un-stick. You can test that easily next time it misbehaves. Turn the blower to minimum and see if the outlet temperature gets cold, then turn the blower to maximum and see if your cooling goes away. If so, it's a stuck swash. If it's warm even with the blower on minimum, then it's most likely a pressure problem.


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Hey @VStar650CL,

Any chance you're coming down to Cancun anytime soon?!?! haha I could really use a mechanic that knows what's he's doing! Every time I get service for something the fix 1 and break 2. Seriously... last time was my ABS sensor that mysteriously needed replacement after changing break pads.

So... back to ailments of my 2016 X-Trail... which I love BTW... its just now starting to cause problems as vehicles are designed to do with age.

Lets start with the AC as I think I figured something out today. Other than than the car gets hot as balls in the Mexican sun when it's not working properly. I've been playing around the the modes/temp/recycled air settings as I noticed that the passenger vents are not blowing the same temp as the driver side vents. Driver is much cooler. Turned the passenger side "dual temp zone" up and down. Its gets nice and warm but doesn't seem to get the same cold air as the driver when set the same? The AC is ice cold on the drivers side at an idle as well. Doesn't change when driving. Passenger side just never gets there. And sometimes its blowing regular air I think. Thoughts?


As for the rear liftgate struts. I took a couple more videos of them in action.

Here you can see the height set to the top... and then immediately falls to the half way position once it reaches the set height. The only height that seems to work is when set at about half way.
Nissan X Trail Power Spindle Liftgate Struts Failing 

Here i took a video and held the phone up against the right rear strut and noticed that it makes a knocking sound when moved manually up and down.
Nissan X Trail Power Spindle Liftgate Struts Failing 2 


*I'll try and explain this one to them... well see!*
_". He could have done an ABD reset there in the driveway while the C3+ was connected, and I have no clue why he didn't. It's a 15-second operation."_


*You said:*
_"Any system component that you disconnect and then operate the door will cause the ABD to throw a code and stop operating. Yes, that can be a spindle as well as the latch. "_
What's the easiest component I can disconnect and then use the rear door to throw a code? The spindle cables are fished thru into the body of the car. Is there something else, quick and simple, I can unplug to make this happen?


ps: Seriously ... if you find your way down here to the beaches of the Riviera Maya... send me a message. I owe you a few cold ones!


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## Llehmann (Jan 11, 2021)

Oh yeah... and I found some Chinese knock offs... kinda makes me tingle inside with fear. But so does the $700usd price tag from Nissan for the struts! I don't think I can do it... but found this info out there on the world wide web!

Option 1 - $328usd
Remote Control Intelligent Car Trunk Power Tailgate Lift Foot Sensor Kick Sensing For Nissan X-trail 2015+ - Buy Remote Control Intelligent Car Trunk Power Tailgate Lift,Intelligent Car Trunk For Nissan,Kick Sensing Power Tailgate Lift For Nissan X-trail Product on Alibaba.com

Option 2 - $399usd
2016 Nissan X trail Power Tailgate | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

No chance of me being in Mexico anytime soon, but the way things are going here in the 'States, I'll admit that Belize isn't looking impossible. I understand there's a dealership in Belize City...



Llehmann said:


> Here i took a video and held the phone up against the right rear strut and noticed that it makes a knocking sound when moved manually up and down.


That doesn't sound right. They usually make a smooth whine when moved by hand.



Llehmann said:


> What's the easiest component I can disconnect and then use the rear door to throw a code? The spindle cables are fished thru into the body of the car. Is there something else, quick and simple, I can unplug to make this happen?


The latch itself is easiest, the interior trim just pries loose after removing the embedded pull handle (also pries loose). The only caution is be careful of the wires on the "close" switch, have an assistant handy to keep the panel from falling while you disconnect it. The spindle connectors are underneath the headliner, much more difficult to access.



Llehmann said:


> Oh yeah... and I found some Chinese knock offs... kinda makes me tingle inside with fear. But so does the $700usd price tag from Nissan for the struts! I don't think I can do it... but found this info out there on the world wide web!


The OE Nissan spindles are made in China. Chances are the Alibaba ones are "gray market", the original article without branding.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Oh, yeah, your A/C. Consult3+ also has a calibration utility for the servos, in Work Support under the HVAC tab. That may or may not be your issue, it could be a bad passenger mix servo. The servos are just plain-jane stepper motors and very inexpensive by Nissan standards, but getting at that one for replacement isn't so easy, it's halfway up the side of the HVAC box and requires at least removing the glove box.


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## Fastyan (Jul 22, 2021)

Can I ask if you ever resolved this issue? Just come across this post while looking for a strut as my power boot is doing the same thing 🙄


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## 17Rogue7seater (Aug 14, 2021)

Same here, 2017 Rogue and my power liftgate is doing the exact same thing. No matter how high I set it, it comes down unless I push against it. It could hold if I push against it long enough. Doubt there's anything is wrong with the struts themselves. 

Did you end up fixing it by resetting the Controller or recalibrating? The vehicle is under 4 years old and I've only owned it for 2 months! What gives?!


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## Mduarte (Sep 10, 2021)

Same here
2016 Nissan Xtrail
Portugal

any news?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Mduarte said:


> Same here
> 2016 Nissan Xtrail
> Portugal
> 
> any news?


Since this whole exchange, I became aware that there's a simple, no-tools reset for the ABD's on all gen2 Rogues. Open the hatch all the way manually, then press and hold the "close" button until the controller beeps. Then close the hatch manually. The controller should now be reset and the hatch should resume working normally. If not, then there's an actual hardware issue that a reset won't fix.


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## Mduarte (Sep 10, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Since this whole exchange, I became aware that there's a simple, no-tools reset for the ABD's on all gen2 Rogues. Open the hatch all the way manually, then press and hold the "close" button until the controller beeps. Then close the hatch manually. The controller should now be reset and the hatch should resume working normally. If not, then there's an actual hardware issue that a reset won't fix.


Tank you so much for the help
it doesn't work
i think that i have a hardware problem...


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## Mduarte (Sep 10, 2021)

i bought two used struts from an accidented car
it's plug and play? i think so, but...


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Mduarte said:


> i bought two used struts from an accidented car
> it's plug and play? i think so, but...


Yes, but the ABD Controller needs to be reset after replacing the struts as I described above.


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## Mduarte (Sep 10, 2021)

Fitted
yesterday i fitgted myself the two struts
and everything works fine

Nissan in Portugal asks 1400€ for both struts !!!????
i bought two used at 160€ , from a 2019 car


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## 17Rogue7seater (Aug 14, 2021)

So, we open the trunk of our vehicle pretty often for job reasons.. I went ahead and removed the sagging oem power struts and replaced them with non-powered struts (for the practicality). The wires are cut and electrical taped. 

Now, the external "switch A" button used to open the liftgate no longer works. It would only temporarily work fine after disconnecting the battery for some time (acts like a reset to the BCM?), but then it stops working after 4-5 opens or half a day. 

Probably getting some codes in the ABD that's causing this? Do I have to go to get it the BCM/ABD (which is it!) reprogrammed?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yes, there are ABD codes that will completely disable the system and make the release quit working if they occur repeatedly. Because the release uses a cinch motor, I'm not sure how you'd get around that for a manual-strut conversion. You could re-wire the cinch motor to use a DPDT switch to allow releasing it, but you'd also need to cinch it manually so it would be very clumsy. Let me look into the manual latching type tomorrow, if it's self-contained and not run by the BCM then you may be able to use that. If the BCM runs it then you have a can of worms, because you'll need to use something like a spring-latching electric release off a different model and make it fit by modifying the hatch.


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## 17Rogue7seater (Aug 14, 2021)

Thanks for your response VStar650CL. 

I really hope I don't have to re-wire anything. That's way beyond my comprehension. 

What's baffling to me is that it's totally possible for a power to manual conversion to work. After resetting the battery, it works as intended. Pressing switch A while car is unlocked triggers the actuator, and stays locked when the car is locked and keyfob away. Key fob proximity sensing works too. Then it decides not to function after the comp thinks it's having issues with power function (despite the power door button turned off). 

I wonder if I can find a mechanic with CONSULT tool and perform a reset + clear ABD codes, or to disable looking for a signal from the power function. Could that fix the issue? 

I ought to note that I've changed my battery (brand new), and left the POWER DOOR button by the steering wheel in the OFF position since the conversion. Thought the power door button is supposed to tell the controller that I'd be operating the door manually.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Now that I think about it, the ABD is most likely throwing codes for the spindle encoders (position sensors). The inputs may be "floating" with the spindles unplugged, causing false movement signals that accumulate into a problem. Grounding the encoder wires at the spindle connectors should cure that. I'll get you some connector and wire color information this afternoon.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Here are the spindle connectors in your roof. The diagrams are from the "Harness View", i.e., the side where the wires enter the connector:
LEFT - You want to ground the White and Blue wires at pins 3 and 5:








RIGHT - You want to ground the Red and Sky Blue wires at pins 3 and 5:








I think that will most likely solve your problem. I hope so, because the Manual hatch is BCM-driven so you don't have options that won't mean significant rework or bodging.


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## 17Rogue7seater (Aug 14, 2021)

Thanks again Vstar. This is all new to me unfortunately... so I have some silly questions.

How do I gain access to the wires from the Harness side? I'm guessing that the wires I see sticking out are past the rubber seal are not the ones I should be working with, and the harness connectors are hiding behind the rubber seal?

Left = driver side?

Once I gain access to the wires and strip them to reveal the colours, how do I go about to ground them? Is this something that can be reversible if I do end up wanting to add power struts back (say if I were to sell the vehicle).

Appreciate your help on this


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yes, driver's side is left. The back of the headliner needs to be dropped slightly to access the connectors, and that isn't so simple on a Rogue. You might want to get some professional help for that, or consult the service manual (it's pretty much the same operation for '14~'20, so a manual from any of those years will suffice). The easiest way to handle the wiring and preserve the connectors for the future is to pull what's left of the spindle wires through the grommet. You can then use them as a pigtail that mates with the harness, and you can put the grommet back in the hole and seal it with RTV silicone so it won't leak. Grounding just means attaching to the metal of the car, and it doesn't matter where you attach. The entire chassis and body is "ground". You could actually do it outside the grommets except Nissan doesn't specify the wire colors of the spindle wiring, that's arbitrary and is determined by the spindle manufacturer. So there's no way to determine which wire is which without dropping the headliner to see the harness connector.


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