# Changing oil pan gasket...search yielded nothing



## bignick31985 (Feb 25, 2007)

It's a 1995 Nissan 200sx with the 2.0 in it.

I already checked and the area where the gasket seats down is squishing out, as if it was way overtorqued previously. 

It appears that the exhaust is in the way on some of the bolts and possibly prevents it from dropping completely. Do I unbolt the collector? Or can the pan be removed without touching the xhaust?

I have the mechanical knowledge to do it, but was wondering if there were any difficulties I'd run into potentially. It's her daily car so I have to do it over the weekend. I'm guessing it'll take a couple hours at a slow, patient pace.


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## bignick31985 (Feb 25, 2007)

*A quick overview of the process*

You honestly mean to tell me that nobody has changed the oil pan gasket in a nearly 13 year old car or has any input? And a note...the guy that we bought it from told me it's a 2.0 and it isnt. It is a 1.6 and I found that out when the A-zone guy handed me a 2.0 gasket and it clearly did not fit the car. Note to self: check engine on your own...trust no-one!

Regardless. Might make it a sticky if it's important enough, I dont know.

10mm socket and wrench (only for very tight spots and I only used it for 2 turns)
3/8" universal
3/8" ratchet
10" extension
pair of 3" extensions
phillips head screwdriver (not necessary, but may be useful to some)
rubber mallet
new gasket (cork or rubber)
gasket sealer
patience

Drain the oil. I still have not removed the oil filter. The asshat that changed the oil last managed to either crossthread the filter or severly overtightened it. It's been 2 hours and it hasnt budged, and I've used every trick in the book. Doesnt matter, you shouldnt have that much trouble with yours. I also noticed that one of the bolts on the oil pan had a stripped head. I used the Craftsman Bolt Out to remove it. Man did that make it easy!

Also, I did not remove anything to remove all the bolts. It may be easier to unbolt the exhaust but I'm unsure, especially if you guys have an aftermarket. I didnt have a huge problem working around anything.

There are 12 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the oil pan up. All of them are 10mm. The two bolts on the far right side of the pan are longer, they look different b/c they have threading all the way down the bolt. The rest of the bolts have a collar near the end that helps you thread the bolt into the hole. The 2 long, fully threaded bolts must go back in those far right holes. 

The 2 nuts are on the far left hand side and are kinda difficult to see. The best way to get to them is to use a 10" extension (or two 3" extensions stacked possibly) with a universal on the end. I had to manuever the extension over what appeared to be a crossmember or support. It isnt that bad, but it's tight.

Now I would continue but I have yet to finish b/c the oil pan is sorta stuck to the gasket. I'm working on getting that off, but its tough. Not sure why, but I'm sure I'll find out when I get it off. But after the pan is removed you go through the usual setup of cleaning the gasket seating area and placing sealer on their respective surfaces and replace the gasket in the reverse order it was removed. I'm not sure of the torque settings, but you definitely dont want to overtighten.

There...a quick overview of what apparently hasnt been done. :balls:


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## bignick31985 (Feb 25, 2007)

bignick31985 said:


> You honestly mean to tell me that nobody has changed the oil pan gasket in a nearly 13 year old car or has any input? And a note...the guy that we bought it from told me it's a 2.0 and it isnt. It is a 1.6 and I found that out when the A-zone guy handed me a 2.0 gasket and it clearly did not fit the car. Note to self: check engine on your own...trust no-one!
> 
> Regardless. Might make it a sticky if it's important enough, I dont know.
> 
> ...


I changed around the collector removal. It is needed, as well as some other stuff. Still not done however.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

Are you sure the guy at the autoparts store just didn't give you the wrong gasket? I ask because there is no pan gasket on the oil pan for the sr20 and also the ka24. Use rtv, thats what the factory does.


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## bignick31985 (Feb 25, 2007)

Also, there is a mount bar on the front side of the engine, near what looks to be the transmission. I loosened the bottom bolt and top bolt and slid it out of the way. Then the pan just sorta slid out.

Nah they gave me the gasket for the 2.0 motor. It looked NOTHING like the 1.6 motor gasket. The 1.6 gasket is more rectangular while the 2.0 gasket is almost a perfect square.

And that crap that was on there...the white sealant stuff, was junk. It had gaps in it like crazy. I put the new cork one on there with the gasket sealant and so far it seems alright. THere are still drops of oil b/c my dumbass forgot to wipe all the stuff the oil originally got on. 

True test to how well I did will come when she drives it. Hopefully that sumbitch will not leak. I did the best I could. I will easily be able to tell when she parks it on the fresh part of the driveway tomorrow. If I see spots then I'm jackin it up to see if its coming out the pan gasket. If it is...then I dont know.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

I put a fel-pro gasket on my girl's Altima and it leaked like sieve. Removed it and just put RTV black on instead; never had a leak since. If that gasket doesn't work, try the rtv. Just be sure to get the surfaces super clean 1st.


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## bignick31985 (Feb 25, 2007)

Awww, dont tell me that man. That's bad!

I used the Fel Pro and the RTV, so hopefully it will stay leak free for a while. That gasket is not something I want to replace anytime soon.

So far, about 5 days or so I guess, it's leak free. She's been driving it alot lately and I've been checking it daily both visually and with the dipstick. So far, so good, but time will tell I guess.


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## captain_shrapnel (Sep 10, 2004)

Glad to hear it. Sounds like your good to go.


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