# Lower Ball Joints



## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

New to the forums, but I've had my '97 RWD XE for 10 years now and it has been my daily driver for 8 or those 10 years. In 10 years I've replaced:

battery
alternator
valve cover gasket 
hoses and belts
hanger bearing
u-joints (they didn't go bad, but had the drive shaft out anyway) 
front wheel bearings
front brakes (which were actually still good thanks to it being a manual and hardly using the brakes, but I had it torn apart anyway for the wheel bearings)
and changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles. It currently has 165,000 miles on it and shows no sign of engine problems and runs great. As I'm sure all of you already know, these KA24E engines seem to be just about bullet proof.

Anyhow, the boots on the ball joints have been torn since 2005 or so and are just now starting to make clunking noises on sharp turns and obviously need replaced. I've already bought some greasable Moog upper and lower ball joints and my question is whether the lower ball joint can actually be pressed out of the control arm on a '97, or does one need to replace the entire control arm assembly? I've found threads here and on other forums that seem to contradict each other on whether or not the lower ball joint is integral to the control arm and whether pressing it out will destroy it. I've done ball joints before (on my '99 F-350 4x4), but this is the first time doing any suspension work on this truck.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan doesn't sell the lower ball joint on RWD models, only the upper joint. So, if you want to use genuine Nissan parts, you will have to replace the entire control arm. You can purchase the lower ball joints on the aftermarket and press the old one out and new one in. If you're careful, you can do this, but I've seen some cases where people have done this only to have the ball joint fall out of the control arm. Dorman makes the entire lower control arm with ball joint and bushings and you can get them at Rockauto.com for $27 each + shipping. I think that would be the route I would recommend.


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## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

smj999smj said:


> Nissan doesn't sell the lower ball joint on RWD models, only the upper joint. So, if you want to use genuine Nissan parts, you will have to replace the entire control arm. You can purchase the lower ball joints on the aftermarket and press the old one out and new one in. If you're careful, you can do this, but I've seen some cases where people have done this only to have the ball joint fall out of the control arm. Dorman makes the entire lower control arm with ball joint and bushings and you can get them at Rockauto.com for $27 each + shipping. I think that would be the route I would recommend.



Thanks for the quick response, that's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll go ahead and return the lower Moog ball joints and order the lower control arm assembly. I've ordered lots of parts for my F-350 from Rock Auto, so that would probably be my go-to source anyway. I'm afraid to see how much the OEM Nissan control arms run. I went with an OEM alternator 8 years ago when I replaced that and paid a premium for it. But also didn't want to buy some house brand with a supposed "lifetime warranty" and end up replacing it every 6 months.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Genuine Nissan lower arms go for $208 from the dealer and about $170 online...each. I've never had any problems from Dorman parts and have used them quite a bit.


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## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks for the info smj999smj. I have a Haynes manual to help me through this, but does anyone have any tips or warnings for doing the ball joints before I tackle it when I get the parts I need?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Make sure you get a wheel alignment performed after you're done.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

smj999smj said:


> Make sure you get a wheel alignment performed after you're done.



Yep, and here's a decent video to give you some general direction. There are many on line.






-R


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## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

Thought I would update this thread since I always hate it when people join a forum, ask one question and then are never heard from again. 

Back in November my parents were visiting and my Dad just happens to be a mechanic. So he offered to change out my ball joints for me while I was at work and of course I wasn't going to turn down that offer. He had some difficulty getting the bottom ones out, but he was able to get them eventually. I warned him that when he went to put them back in they might fit loosely and if so let me know and I would just order the entire lower arm assembly. He said they fit VERY tightly and it appears that the brand/line of ball joints I went with is manufactured a few thousands over just for the previously mentioned reasons. 

I still haven't driven it yet since I still have to get the emissions fixed on it, get new tires on it, SMOG it, and remove the PNO. But I'll follow up again and let you know if it was successful in fixing the noises and drivability problems I was having.


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## Erics_Daily (Feb 18, 2006)

Were they Moog? I thought mine were Moog and they were loose. Had them tack welded in.


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## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

Erics_Daily said:


> Were they Moog? I thought mine were Moog and they were loose. Had them tack welded in.


They were Moog. However, I think they were their "Problem Solver" series of parts, which I've read are manufactured a few .001" over to avoid a loose fit on older vehicles. My recomendation for anyone else donig this repair though is to just buy the whole lower arm and not worry about pressing the new ball joints in.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

northwindone said:


> Thought I would update this thread since I always hate it when people join a forum, ask one question and then are never heard from again.


Amen, brother!


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

smj999smj said:


> Nissan doesn't sell the lower ball joint on RWD models, only the upper joint. So, if you want to use genuine Nissan parts, you will have to replace the entire control arm. You can purchase the lower ball joints on the aftermarket and press the old one out and new one in. If you're careful, you can do this, but I've seen some cases where people have done this only to have the ball joint fall out of the control arm. Dorman makes the entire lower control arm with ball joint and bushings and you can get them at Rockauto.com for $27 each + shipping. I think that would be the route I would recommend.


That's not true!!! Lower Balljoints are available folks!!! I know it's more than a year old post!

RockAuto Parts Catalog


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I had said NISSAN doesn't sell the lower joints on the RWD model, but they are available on the aftermarket. What part of that isn't true??


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## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

OK.... Only a fool would buy them from Nissan anyway Moog and Raybestos are as good as if not better...Sorry misread your post!


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## northwindone (Mar 5, 2013)

Got it back on the road and it's all good. Seems the Moog ball joints worked great and front suspension is now noise free and more responsive. The down side is that now that it is fixed it is going up for sale, but I'll enjoy driving it until it sells.

I'm going to miss this truck since I've had it for 11 years and it has been one of the most reliable vehicles that I have ever owned. But with 2 kids it just doesn't make sense to keep a vehicle with only 2 seats. Hopefully the next owner will enjoy it as much as I have.


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## Cobus Panther (Dec 23, 2020)

smj999smj said:


> Genuine Nissan lower arms go for $208 from the dealer and about $170 online...each. I've never had any problems from Dorman parts and have used them quite a bit.


Back in South Africa the upper control arm costing R3900.00/exchange rate of aboutR15 rand to the dollar..busy with my vehicle with aftermarket spares....according to my views Nissan got some nuts loosend in their mind...centre bearing costing R4500.00...crazy

Add to this the auto hubs for the 4*4 costing R11000.00 And in $ about 800 Us $


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