# Urgent!!! Please Help! Lower Ball joint problems



## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Howdy everyone, haven't posted on here in a while, but now this one here is urgent. 

I had to have my drive axle replaced not to long ago and the mechanic explained to me that my lower ball joints are going bad and need to be replaced. I'm guessing the lower ball joints are only in the front for my car (1993 Nissan Sentra, 5-speed, manual).

I've been hearing some creaking and knocking sounds when I make tight cuts with my wheels. It's gradually been getting worse. I'm worried they are going to go out on me while I'm driving into work or else where.

This is what I'm asking, is it better to replace the ball joint, or the control arm with the ball joint. I'm not a artisan in mechanic work, but I do know some and my uncle and futher father in law know a decent amount and are willing to help. Which one is easier to replace, just the joint, or the control w/ joint? If there is a tutorial you all would recommend I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks everyone,
Taylor


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

The whole control arm. Replace just the ball joint and you've still got old rubber at the other end of it.
And do both sides, not just one side. And get an alignment afterwards.
And noises when making tight turns is generally outer CV joints.
Lower ball joints generally make noises over bumps and such.
Something else to think about...


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Do you know anything about Raybestos control arms? They seem to me like they are pretty good.

Also, how hard is it to replace the control arm with the ball joint?

Thanks JDG and everyone,

Taylor


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan recommends replacing the whole arm and IIRC doesn't sell the ball joint seperately though it is readily available on the aftermarket. The ball joint is pressed fit and most of the time you can replace only the joint without an issue if you do it properly, but I have seen both a Sentra and a Maxima come into the shop where I work where people have done this and the replacement ball joint had come loose from the arm and the only thing that kept it together was the snap ring around the ball joint. For my money, I'd rather replace the whole arm. Most of the aftermarket control arms are pretty good. I like Dorman's parts but Raybestos is good, too. As mentioned by jdg, you also get the control arm bushings, too, which are prone to wear with substantial mileage. R&R the control arm is not difficult on a Sentra. Basically undo the stabilizer link, if it has one, remove the cotter pin and nut on the ball joint and whack it with a big hammer to break it loose, unbolt the control arm from the body and install the new one; torque the bolts and nuts to spec., adjust your tire pressure and have a wheel alignment performed.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Okie dokie, sounds like a job that's not to bad then. Going to take some time, to get the materials together. I was wondering if you all could check these control arms out and make sure they are everything I need.

More Information for RAYBESTOS 5071245

More Information for RAYBESTOS 5071246

Does this all look right? It's got the ball joint, bushings, control arm and all correct? This is everything I would need to do the repair?

Thank you all,

Taylor


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Yep, that's pretty much it other than a couple of small cotter pins for the ball joint studs.


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## Sunny (May 6, 2002)

Aluminum, nice find on the arm


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sunny said:


> Aluminum, nice find on the arm


Note that it says "aluminum where OE specifies." Since the OE control arm is stamped steel and not aluminum, I'm pretty sure the Raybestos arm is stamped steel, as well. I believe it's just a general statement of all of their control arms meaning if that the original OE part was aluminum, the Raybestos replacement part will be aluminum, as well.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Well thanks to the help of God, SMJ, and my fiance's father, Saturday I was able to replace both control arms on my sentra. It took 8 hours to do haha! The car is operating fine now. It was the passanger side ball joint that was the worst. It was moved around only so far in the bushing, while the driver side still had some flexibility in it. 

Also the sway bar link on the passanger side had been badly damaged and needed to be replaced, so that was the only hinderance that we faced as we were replacing them. It was actually a really fun experience. So thankful that my car is now safer to drive. Also my alignment is still fine actually. It may even be better than what it was before. So I might not even need to get an alignment done on the car. Thanks everyone for your help.

Now on to other things with my Sentra!

Thanks,
Taylor


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

taylor_f said:


> Well thanks to the help of God


Just curious...which parts did god swap out?



> Also my alignment is still fine actually.


Judging from the amount of questions you ask and what I think you probably do or don't know, you'd better get an alignment before your front end eats the set of tires that's on there right now.
Just because it steers straight and the car doesn't try to pull you into oncoming traffic or the ditch doesn't necessarily mean the alignment is good.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

> Just curious...which parts did god swap out?


God is the One who gave me hands to work with, a brain to think with, and a will to do anything on my car. Without Him, I am nothing. Hope that answers your curiousity.

Concerning the alignment, it was pulling a bit today and yesterday I believe, it would come and go sometimes. Their's a shop near my house that will do it for 50 or 60 bucks, I'll probably try there tomorrow or next week. Thanks for the help JDG.

Hey if you could, if you know anything about tranny lube, could you help me out with my last question on this post?

http://www.nissanforums.com/b13-91-94-chassis/167531-few-questions.html

Thanks JDG and everyone whose helped,

Taylor


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Well I took it to a mechanic shop to get a front end alignment. They raised it up and seen a problem with the work that we did on it. The ball joints and everything else looked perfect. The only thing was on the driver's side, the Control Arm Rear Bushing/Clamp bolts had been improperly re-inserted. We may have stripped them as we re-inserted.

Going to take a look at it this weekend and see what we can do. Hopefullly nothing is stripped and simply needs to be adjusted.

Any ideas on how hard it is to normally tap and die them?


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

taylor_f said:


> The only thing was on the driver's side, the Control Arm Rear Bushing/Clamp bolts had been improperly re-inserted. We may have stripped them as we re-inserted.


And god let you get away with that?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

taylor_f said:


> Well I took it to a mechanic shop to get a front end alignment. They raised it up and seen a problem with the work that we did on it. The ball joints and everything else looked perfect. The only thing was on the driver's side, the Control Arm Rear Bushing/Clamp bolts had been improperly re-inserted. We may have stripped them as we re-inserted.
> 
> Going to take a look at it this weekend and see what we can do. Hopefullly nothing is stripped and simply needs to be adjusted.
> 
> Any ideas on how hard it is to normally tap and die them?


I would suggest you order some new control arm bolts from Nissan to replace those that are or are suspected to be cross-threaded. This will also allow you to use the new bolts to size-up the appropriate tap. The success of re-chasing the threads depends on how badly the threads are crossthreaded.


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

Hey SMJ, I work for a mechanical company and we deal a whole lot with bolts. We deal with a lot of fastening companies like fastenal, jiffy, etc.

They sell and know bolts, you think I could find what I'm looking for from them?

Thanks,

Taylor


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## taylor_f (Mar 28, 2011)

So I called up the Nissan corp. on the phone a little bit ago. They don't have a parts department or have anyone their that has any knowledge on the control arm bushing clamp bolts. They told me to call a dealer.

I've called two dealers so far. Neither of them have the bolt. One dealer could order and ship the bolt for $3.--, while the other said $5.--. The first dealer said that I could probably go to a fastening company and buy the bolt there, while the other one thought it was a possibility. The only thing is I need the specs on that bolt, or else I got to take one out and bring it there.

Maybe I could drive my car to a place and have them look at the bolt and see for themselves what it is. I dunno. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Taylor


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