# Help.. Struts are rusted to the steering knuckle



## Guest (Jul 13, 2002)

trying to install drop springs..The two 17 mm bolts holding the lower end of the strut to the hub assembly are completely rusted--- tried PB blaster and liquid wrench... what else, I dont have a pneumatic /hydrualic torque wrench or any torches to heat it up... I got a quote of $250 (5.5 hours labor) to install the 4 drop springs, which is way more than I can pay... any ideas?


----------



## CarbonBlack200 (Apr 30, 2002)

*right tool*

Did you try to use a big breaker bar? If not, get yourself a long (like 25inch) breaker bar and you will be surprized to see how easy that thing comes off... It's all about using right tools  Invest $30 for good quality breaker bar. That tool is very useful (IMO)...
Good luck!!


----------



## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

well that and i dont know how your going to get the nut off the top mounting plate cause you need an impact wrench. you cant get a normal wrench to spin at the velocity need to take it off.


----------



## nak1 (May 17, 2002)

*if your talking about what i think...*



AznVirus said:


> *well that and i dont know how your going to get the nut off the top mounting plate cause you need an impact wrench. you cant get a normal wrench to spin at the velocity need to take it off. *


your nuts!!!!! if im thinking correctly you are needing to get that nut off fast cause your not using a spring compressor.... tell me im a moron and am wrong please! that is super dangerous!


----------



## CarbonBlack200 (Apr 30, 2002)

*Safety first.*



nak1 said:


> *
> 
> your nuts!!!!! if im thinking correctly you are needing to get that nut off fast cause your not using a spring compressor.... tell me im a moron and am wrong please! that is super dangerous! *


Well.. you have to take the strut off first, then use the compressor to separate the shock and spring. Yeah, it's pretty dangerous to do this with no spring compressor, but you won't need the compressor until you take the strut off the vehicle.


----------



## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

yes sorry if i wasnt clear, let me rephrase myself, after you get the strut assembly off was what i meant. ive tried a spring compressor, but once you get the spring compressed, you wont be able to get the top mounting nut off because it spins while you wrench at it.

thats at least my experience...


----------



## James (Apr 29, 2002)

Have a CLOSE local shop loosen it with a impact and drive SLOWLY home and finish the process... Not that hard. 

You might not want to do this trick but I hate renting those compressors... I just loosen it to the LAST POSSIBLE thread and point it in a safe direction and let it fly... stupid, maybe but it works.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

definately try the breaker bar too, you'll be surprized how much you'll be able to do with a little extra torque. BTW, The rear has one bolt on the bottom and those are twice as hard to get off as the front ones, I guarantee you. You'll definately need an impact wrench for the rear.


----------



## AznVirus (May 8, 2002)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *definately try the breaker bar too, you'll be surprized how much you'll be able to do with a little extra torque. BTW, The rear has one bolt on the bottom and those are twice as hard to get off as the front ones, I guarantee you. You'll definately need an impact wrench for the rear. *


i agree, i was working on it and was a pain in the ass!


----------



## luminus (Jul 10, 2002)

AznVirus said:


> *yes sorry if i wasnt clear, let me rephrase myself, after you get the strut assembly off was what i meant. ive tried a spring compressor, but once you get the spring compressed, you wont be able to get the top mounting nut off because it spins while you wrench at it.
> 
> .
> .
> ...


It spins because the strut shaft is spinning. Its quite easy to get around this if you have the right tools, and they are not that expensive.

Usually (its been the case on every strut i've seen), the top threaded part of the shock where that nut is has been keyed or flattened at some point so you can get a wrench on it without messing up the threads. This will keep the strut shaft from spinning. Now you can use a regular open ended wrench to loosen that top nut.

Some upper spring mounts result in that top nut being inset into the mount, making it difficult to get any wrench on it. This is where you can use an offset box end wrench. The upper spring mounts on the B13s are this way.

Of course, do all of this while the spring is compressed with a good set of spring compressors. Someone mentioned you can rent them, and thats a pretty good way to go if you don't plan on using them again. However, for only $30 or so, you can pick up a very well built set at sears.

If you're having problems with rusted strut bolts, buy a good (craftsman  1/2" breaker bar. This combined with a pipe will give you more torque than you need. I broke loose my axle nuts that had been torqued well over 250-300 ft-lbs with it.

Another relatively cheap tool is a mapp gas torch. Around $30 or so, these are small torchs like the propane ones, but get much hotter. Be carefull about what you're heating, tho! wouldn't want to destroy a brake line or catch something else on fire.

Aaron


----------



## luminus (Jul 10, 2002)

Another trick I heard about with rusted nuts/bolts - get the breaker bar on the nut, and TIGHTEN it just a little bit. Then try to loosen it.

Its worth a shot...


----------



## bahearn (Jul 15, 2002)

First: the subject line of this thread is misleading.

Second: break-over bar, 1/2" drive as posted above.

Third: 17 mm socket, 1/2" drive, *6-point*

Fourth: tighten first, then try to loosen, as posted above.

Fifth: what springs, what rate, how much drop? Pro-kits are too soft, Intrax are *way* too soft. You'll be hitting the bump stops and jarring your fillings loose. You can have lower springs or soft ride but not both.


----------



## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

Stuff like this is funny for me(im a tech)sometimes. You are worried about your strut being rusted to the spindle..hehe Mine are welded. You may think I am crazy, but I just dont tust camber(crash) bolts. They are not totally welded, just tacked. Very easy to grind it off when I get my coilovers(sometime). For you guys that have trouble with rusted bolts here are some tips:
1. 6 point sockets
2.If you have no air tools, use the breaker bar. Sometimes at work I have better luck breaking bolts loose with a breaker bar as opposed to my 1/2" air gun. Of course I have broke a few 1/2" breaker bars..Oh well
3.Penetrating lube(no, not the sex type.lol). I used WD-40 for a while, but the shop I work at now supplies us with PB Blaster. I am really impressed with how well it works. Remember sometimes you have to let it sit in for a while.
4. A "Hot Wrench" as it is called in the trade. Basicly any way to heat up the bolt. Be it a Mapp or Oxy-Acetlyn torch. Its also usefull some times to heat the bolt up and then dowse it with cold water the rapid contraction can help break the rust bond.

One possibilty is to go to a shop or a friend and have them break the rust with an air tool then retighten for you. Once they break the rust free you should have no problem getting it off when you get home.

When I see someone talk about taking the piston nut off with out compressing the spring first, I see someone with no head. Be it not using it when thinking about doing this, or the possible aftermath. Under no circumstances should you do this!!! 
Whoever it was that posted about the flat section of the piston is right, thats what it is there for. I have broken quite a few wrenches holding that thing 6mm(GM stuff) wrenches are small, I know it sounds "hack" but I have good luck with Vise-Grips. On the plus side of all this, once you have your lowering springs in you probly wont need a compressor again due to the shorter spring leangth. I know B14 Sportlines will just about rattle in the strut when its out of the car.l


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

bahearn said:


> *Fifth: what springs, what rate, how much drop? Pro-kits are too soft. You'll be hitting the bump stops and jarring your fillings loose.*


Hmmm, I have Pro-kits and I was thinking of getting bump stops. do you think this is a bad idea? I wanted to try out autoXing


----------



## landlord (Jun 11, 2002)

James said:


> *Have a CLOSE local shop loosen it with a impact and drive SLOWLY home and finish the process... Not that hard.
> 
> You might not want to do this trick but I hate renting those compressors... I just loosen it to the LAST POSSIBLE thread and point it in a safe direction and let it fly... stupid, maybe but it works. *


man, my dad won't even work on a cars suspention because a friend of his was killed doing that! when it comes to springs there is no safe direction!!! just keep in mind how much is a life worth? is worth that rental fee when that spring bounces off somthing then flys back and smacks you in the temple???!!!


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Ouch. Well I used spring compressors in the front, but not for the back (since I gave them back to buy a breaker bar). anyway, I when I loosened the springs up (from the top mount), I made sure I was safely in the back seat of the car when I made them Pop.


----------



## nak1 (May 17, 2002)

thats just plain stupid! i know a guy who got his forearm snaped like a twig cause he did the same sort of thing. and that was lucky. he didnt die!


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

nak1 said:


> *thats just plain stupid! i know a guy who got his forearm snaped like a twig cause he did the same sort of thing. and that was lucky. he didnt die! *


With my way?


----------



## nak1 (May 17, 2002)

with any way not involving a spring compressor.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

well, I would have still had it, but I had to return it to get the money for a breaker bar and some sockets.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

BTW, I was safely inside the car when I let the pressure off the spring. There was no way I was getting near the spring when I got it to pop. There was no way I could have snapped my arm.


----------



## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

So you were safe, the the parts on the car were not, do you understand how many things can go wrong when you let a coil spring go? Guess not.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

man, If you're going to flame me for doing it the only thing I could, than FUCK YOU. I couldn't get the bottom bolt undone AT ALL, so my only option was to do it that way or go to a shop with the money THAT I DON'T HAVE. I took every step to make sure that I wouldn't hurt my car or myself. Being that the spring was still basically in place, the only things I could have hurt were my shocks because they had to bounce back in the other direction, but those shocks are are fine and soon to be outta here anyway. You got any more complaints on my methods?


----------



## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

You know what, I dont want to fight will you about this or anything else. I could stoop down and start curseing at you but i wont. When it comes to doing something like modding a car it takes money to do it right. If you can not accept that then you will never be a good tuner. You can take a short-cut here and there and be fine, but one of these days it could bite you in the butt. If you dont have the money, make it.. I know it can be hard sometimes, but it ends up being worth waiting for that next one or two pay-checks to do it right. Didnt you say in another post(about the GADET vs. SR swap) that if your going to do something, do it right. Take your own advice. Please calm down, I just dont want to see anyone get hurt. You may have very well been safe in your car, but how would you feel if someone didnt know you were in your car and took your advice, popped the nut off and took a spring in the face? I think we need to drop the attitudes, both of us. I am apologizing to you 1997 GA16DE if I have upset you. When you see my attutude in the other thread(HS email) It is in no way directed soley at you. It jsut really upsets me that a lot of people have put a lot of time into building something that so many of us have wanted for so long and then people come along and dis them. When someone says turboing the GA is not worth it, wheather they relize it or no they are throwing down a major dis to those fine peeps who have worked their asses off and spent alot of their hard earned money to make the kit a reality.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Ok, we settled that little thing in the other thread. here's my response to this one:

I don't want to fight either, but I don't like beeing looked down upon like I'm an idiot or that I don't know what I'm doing. I might be somewhat new but ever since I've had my car, I've been practically living and breathing cars. All of these posts to the left I've written in less than a year and no, it's not from the off topic. I still don't know everything and I never will but when I attempt to do something to my car, I make sure I know everything I can. When I did that "dangerous" spring pop to my back springs, I would never refer to that as a short cut. I did that as a last resort and it worked out just fine. When I stripped the lower bolt, I had no way to remove the assembly. With no more money at the time, I had 2 choices...either redo the front and give up (b/c I already had the front ones on) or figure out a way to make it work. after taking in all the aspects, I found that it was perfectly safe for me and the car to go ahead and do it that way. After it was over and done, I got the same result as any other method. And I never told anyone to do it that way.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

oh, btw, when I said posts to the left, I meant the over 1700 posts I had on the B15 board. I forgot I was on Nissanforums.com


----------



## PatScottAKA99XE (Apr 30, 2002)

I know you didnt "tell" any one to do it that way, but lots of newbies read this stuff, Thats all. Just want to keep everyone safe and happy


----------



## bvtran (May 31, 2003)

Guys, I had the same problems too. It took me over 6 hours just to fight with two knuckle bolts. The upper one finally came off, but the bottom one didn't. However, the nut on the bottom came off, but it bolt refused to move. I guess it didn't like 10w30 oil or probably it wasn't geasy enough. I think I'd rounded the bottom bolt's head a little. I'd tried to hammer the darn thing but it still won't move. 

So what would you guy suggest, any comments would be helpful? I do have a 22" long torque wrench and a 21" long corilla lug wrench but neither seems to do the job. I know I can't flame the bolt since the present strut is a Gas strut, it might explode on me. 

Do you guys think I should compress the spring down and try it? Right now I am just following the Hayes' instruction. It didn't mentioned anything about compressing the spring at all at this stage since I all I wanted to do is take the strut off. Wouldn't that makes more sense to compress the spring since the spring is putting a lot of force down right through the strut to knuckle joints where these two bolts are getting a lot of pressures?


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

LOL, look at this old thread. Ahh, the good ol days where me and Pat Scott would fight like cats and dogs .

it sounds like the bolt is held in from the pressure of the spring pushing down on the unit could be holding it in. It might be worth a shot to use the compressor to relieve the pressure on the bolt so you can pull it out. So you've already tried tapping the bolt out with a hammer?

When I did my rear lower bolt (finally) my breaker bar did nothing. It was so cross threaded, that I used a hacksaw to remove that lower bolt. Keep in mind, I already went to Nissan before hand to pick up all the bolts. As long as you already got the nut off, all that's left is trying to jiggle the bolt out.


----------



## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

So a lot of people are having problems with removing shocks and springs. I guess most of you never replaced a Civic hatch(92-95)suspension, coz its even worse than our car.


----------



## UNISH25 (Aug 12, 2002)

carzoni said:


> *trying to install drop springs..The two 17 mm bolts holding the lower end of the strut to the hub assembly are completely rusted--- tried PB blaster and liquid wrench... what else, I dont have a pneumatic /hydrualic torque wrench or any torches to heat it up... I got a quote of $250 (5.5 hours labor) to install the 4 drop springs, which is way more than I can pay... any ideas? *


Two words...TQ WRENCH!
That thing will come off in two seconds rusted or not!!!!

You don't need hydraulic torque wrenches...get an electrical one!
It's well worth it!!! Trust mE!!!!


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

To make it simple:
Impact Wrench = Piece of cake
Torque Wrench or Breaker bar = Alright<------->PITA
Ratchet or Wrench = Back Breaking<------->Impossible


----------



## UNISH25 (Aug 12, 2002)

UNISH25 said:


> *Two words...TQ WRENCH!
> That thing will come off in two seconds rusted or not!!!!
> 
> You don't need hydraulic torque wrenches...get an electrical one!
> It's well worth it!!! Trust mE!!!!*


Wtf! I meant to say impact wrench...
200ftlbs of tq!!!! That thing will come off in two seconds!
Theres no such thing as a electrical tq wrench(or is there?)


----------



## bvtran (May 31, 2003)

Hi 1997 GA16DE. Thanks for the advice, I'll try to compress the spring and knock the bolts out with a hammer. It looks really tough to compress the spring while it's still in there since it's very tight but it might be well worth trying. I just got a bottle of wd-40 from bigK today. Hopefully, this stuff works better than 10w30 oil. I hope it works cuz I am dying to get that darn bolt out.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Mervic said:


> *So a lot of people are having problems with removing shocks and springs.*


 well, the biggest issue is the years of sand, grit, and rust that lock up the lower bolts. My car is a 97, therefore, when I had to remove the assembly, it already had over 5 years of crud to work through when I had to get those bolts off.


----------



## eugenefl (Apr 3, 2003)

*OMG!!!!*

OMG!!! DEJA VU! I just had the same experiences everyone here is talking about! This weekend I tried to replace my suspension and didn't get very far at all. I managed to get only one strut/spring combo out of the car only to find out that it is nearly impossible to get the strut piston rod nut off! I will definitely be taking my car somewhere for someone to loosen the piston rod nut with an impact wrench. 

In the process of trying to get the 17mm knuckle bolt off, I broke 3 ratchets...all differently. (Only now do I know that you simply DO NOT use a ratchet to torque a bolt off!) What a PITA the removal was! I finally went out to SEARS and bought me a $28 Craftsman 1/2 drive 26-28" long breaker bar. Along with some PB stuff, the breaker bar, and tons of elbow grease and swearing did that damn knuckle bolt come off!

I will probably give it another go this weekend.

Wow fellas. I'm glad to find out I'm not the only one! I feel much better now!


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

did you try tightening first, then loostening?


----------



## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *well, the biggest issue is the years of sand, grit, and rust that lock up the lower bolts. My car is a 97, therefore, when I had to remove the assembly, it already had over 5 years of crud to work through when I had to get those bolts off. *


 I agree. I guess it is a good practice to loosen some bolts on your suspenson and torque it back again to make sure the time you need to replace parts it will be easy enough to do it. Heck I am rebuilding the suspension of my car, Pulsar 1989, and I removed every parts at the front suspension. Not easy but I have no choice.


----------



## bvtran (May 31, 2003)

Damn, that SoB strut-to-knuckle bolt still won't come out. I have beaten the crap out of it, rounded it head badly, and I have been driving with no nut on the its end and it still doesn't move over a week now!!!! I am thinking about removing the whole entire spindle along with it and get another spindle from the junk yard. So, guys, how hard is it to take the spindle off? Do I have to mess around with the CV Joint and it's boot? I have no problem bleeding the brake hose but there is some huge joint there... Any suggestions?


----------



## Mervic (May 1, 2002)

bvtran said:


> *Damn, that SoB strut-to-knuckle bolt still won't come out. I have beaten the crap out of it, rounded it head badly, and I have been driving with no nut on the its end and it still doesn't move over a week now!!!! I am thinking about removing the whole entire spindle along with it and get another spindle from the junk yard. So, guys, how hard is it to take the spindle off? Do I have to mess around with the CV Joint and it's boot? I have no problem bleeding the brake hose but there is some huge joint there... Any suggestions? *


I would put the other bolt you removed back on while you haven't removed the bottom one. It is pretty dangerous to be driving with only one bolt and without a nut. If that bolt comes off, well lets just say you will have more expensive parts to replace and possibly of getting into an accident once that happen(hint: your car will drop like a bomb and you will have no steering whatsoever since the strut acts as a steering pivot like the lower ball joint and those strut to knuckle bolts holds the weight of the car to the spindle and connects the upper and lower suspension). Since you removed the nut off the bolt already, take a center punch and hammer it out. You probably replacing the struts anyways so damaging it should be fine. Once you remove the bolt, I suggest to use an anti-seize compound for ease on future repair.


----------



## bvtran (May 31, 2003)

Actually, I'd finally got the damn thing off with using two huge hammers. The darn mechanic lied to me that I needed to have the whole spindle replaced. What a bastard. Luckily, I got it off myself. This past weekend, I'd finally got the whole four corner completed and installed.

So, now that I got the whole gig installed with both springs (lowered) and struts. I just brought my car to Sears for an alignment but those damn mechanics told me they can't do anything to my car since it's lowered not unless I could give them the spec given by Eibach on how much Camber and Toe to adjust. Then again, my Eibach box didn't came with such info, neither did their website has it. I called Eibach today and they told that they have never included or knew of such spec and Sears had lied to me since they didn't wanted held responsible. Is that true guys?

I heard that it's better for the mechanic to align the wheels since they got the machine to spind those wheels. So what is the best ways to approach a mechanic and talk to them? I don't think Eibach support staffs knew what they were talking about either. They kept telling me to have a mechanic put it back to the factory spec but then again, my car is lowered by their springs. I don't see the point here.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.


----------



## luminus (Jul 10, 2002)

The guys at sears just didn't want to deal with your car... take it to another place that does alignments.

Fixing the alignment specs don't have anything to do with what springs you have on the car. However, changes to the suspension can cause alignment changes (toe in/out and negative camber).

Most cars now can only really adjust the front toe, and maybe the rear toe. If its a B13 sentra/nx, both front and rear toe can be adjusted. This the alignment tech should be able to correct. If you lower it and have too much negative camber, there isn't much anyone can do unless you put in camber plates or other camber correcting parts.

I'd say generally you don't want more than a degree or two of negative camber, and a little (if you are autocrossing or racing) to no toe out.

Aaron



bvtran said:


> * I just brought my car to Sears for an alignment but those damn mechanics told me they can't do anything to my car since it's lowered not unless I could give them the spec given by Eibach on how much Camber and Toe to adjust. Then again, my Eibach box didn't came with such info, neither did their website has it. I called Eibach today and they told that they have never included or knew of such spec and Sears had lied to me since they didn't wanted held responsible. Is that true guys?
> *


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

Sears is lying to you. I took my car to sears for an alignment not too long ago and they did it. I had the agx/prokit combo. The only thing I needed to add was a special lower bolt on the front struts to add negative camber (I think).

2 reasons they might not have wanted to do it. 1. if the car is more than 2" dropped, adjusting the camber to stock might be impossible w/o a camber kit. or 2. If the car is too low, they are afraid it will scrape the body when driving it onto the ramp. If they think they are gonna scratch up the lower body, they probably won't do it. 

Most will ask you how much it was lowered, but that's it. They don't have to know anything about the suspension except "is there a camber bolt or kit" and "what are the stock alignment numbers (found on their computer)."


----------



## bvtran (May 31, 2003)

Hi, GA16DE:

My car is only lowered by 1.2" with Eibach springs. The Kyb Gr2 Gas strut is exactly like the OE struts, so it shouldn't matters much. I did told them that I have it lowered by 1.2" and so and so.

And the only reason why I would wanted to go to sears is becuase they're about $30 cheaper than most of the local places. 

So, would you suggest I lie to them by telling them that I haven't changed the spring? Then if they were to put the alignment back to the original setting, would I recieved more negative cambers, then? If so, would they be able to use their computer to figure that out and fix the problems then?


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

not really sure what you should tell them. If they won't do it, let some other company get your business. If they ask all that shit again, tell them all they need to know is: >"It will drive up onto the ramp no problem," >"it can be adjusted without a camber plate," and >"Set it to the specs the computer gives you, you stupid wrench monkey."


----------



## 2SR20DE (May 17, 2003)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *not really sure what you should tell them. If they won't do it, let some other company get your business. If they ask all that shit again, tell them all they need to know is: >"It will drive up onto the ramp no problem," >"it can be adjusted without a camber plate," and >"Set it to the specs the computer gives you, you stupid wrench monkey." *


I had a the same problem... you have to take it to a performance shop because the guys at sears and those other places do it all by computer and set it to factory spec. They don't know what they are doing if the comp isn't helping them. It cost me ~50 or 60 I can't remember at a locat perf shop. 

Really the only thing they can do is set the toe, with out the adjustable plate you can only do so much with the camber. Our cars aren't that bad though because the struts are very close to straight up and down so the camber isn't changed all that much. I think the geometry works out different on the back, cause mine look like they have more negative camber than the fronts but that's fine because there is no weight in the back to wear out the tires fast.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

2SR20DE said:


> *I had a the same problem... you have to take it to a performance shop because the guys at sears and those other places do it all by computer and set it to factory spec. They don't know what they are doing if the comp isn't helping them. It cost me ~50 or 60 I can't remember at a locat perf shop.
> 
> Really the only thing they can do is set the toe, with out the adjustable plate you can only do so much with the camber. Our cars aren't that bad though because the struts are very close to straight up and down so the camber isn't changed all that much. I think the geometry works out different on the back, cause mine look like they have more negative camber than the fronts but that's fine because there is no weight in the back to wear out the tires fast. *


 I took mine to Sears BTW and they did it just fine, it was $60 and that's about the average cost anywhere. 

The only 2 ways you can really adjust the camber is with a special lower bolt and with a camber plate. As for the rear, Camber doesn't change much unless you get into an accident. We have a solid rear bar and the suspenion hooks to that bar so basically, the camber will not change at all no matter how much you lower the car in the rear. Toe can be adjusted on the rear, but there are only 2 people in the country that have the knowledge to do it (it's a performance gain to minimise the toe-in of the rear wheels).


----------



## 2SR20DE (May 17, 2003)

1997 GA16DE said:


> *I took mine to Sears BTW and they did it just fine, it was $60 and that's about the average cost anywhere.
> 
> The only 2 ways you can really adjust the camber is with a special lower bolt and with a camber plate. As for the rear, Camber doesn't change much unless you get into an accident. We have a solid rear bar and the suspenion hooks to that bar so basically, the camber will not change at all no matter how much you lower the car in the rear. Toe can be adjusted on the rear, but there are only 2 people in the country that have the knowledge to do it (it's a performance gain to minimise the toe-in of the rear wheels). *


Right... I keep forgetting B-14... is different for B-13.... Yeah your right though... I mean really all they are doing is getting the car to roll straight. And if you lower it, at least in the front toe would be the only thing to adjust. My friend and I align it by getting two jack handles put it up against as close to the middle of the wheel, it's usually a little lower and then measure the difference from front to rear. then adjust the tie rod appropriately. We do this to have a little toe out at the track.


----------



## Ninety-Nine SE-L (May 5, 2002)

a guy on the SR20forums (98sr20ve) does toe adjustments to the rear bar on the B14 (he's one of the 2 I was talking about). I'd love to get my rear bar bent to 1/16" toe in or 0* toe. My car would feel awesome, I'd be able to toss it around more like a classic.


----------

