# 88 Pulsar 1.8 Problem



## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

Hey guys, I have an 88 Pulsar. It ran when parked approx 3 years ago. I have no spark, no power at the fuel pump and I can’t run it through the diagnostic proceedure because the L.E.D. on the ECU do not illuminate. I have been through the FSM and everything seems ok. The check engine light does not illuminate with ignition on. The tach does not jump while cranking. There seems to be power to all the required pins going into the ecu. I am pretty stumped here. Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks
Ron


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Are the ECU and Ign relays "clicking on" when ign sw turned to ON?

V at the crank angle sensor?

FP relay "clicking on"?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Bad things tend to happen when vehicles sit for long periods of time; parts can corrode or rodents can chew through wiring. It's possible that the ECM has gone bad, but I wouldn't jump the gun, just yet. You have a FSM, so that's a good start. Make sure your battery is good, the cable connections are clean and tight and that the fusible links have power through them. Since you've already checked for power at the ECM harness connectors, make sure the circuits to ground are good; it's possible that a ground point has developed corrosion and causing excessive resistance to the chassis contact. If those are good and you still have no LEDs on the ECM, I'd be inclined to think that it is no longer any good if you know you have power to it. There are two diagnostic tests listed in the FSM to help you isolate the failure. There should be a diagnostic test for the symptom of "no LED illumination on the ECM when the key is turned to "ON." Another option would be to do the diagnostic procedure for no fuel pump. Since you know you have no power to the pump, you can check for the two power input at the fuel pump relay. The relay will have a "switch side," which is the circuit that supplies power to the fuel pump directly; often jumping these two pins will get power to the pump. The other is the "solenoid side" of the relay circuit. When energized, the solenoid in the relay pulls the contacts of the "switch side" closed to complete the circuit to the pump. The solenoid side is typically powered from a fuse and grounded by the ECM, itself. It shouldn't be too hard to find out what causing your problem. Another thing you can do is carefully take apart the ECM and check for corrosion or burns on the circuitboard.


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

Thanks for the help guys. Car guy, I know the fuel pump relay is good, not getting power to it with key on. I did empty a portion of the gas that was in the tank by applying power to the pump harness. So pump is good too. Smj, yes there were definitely mice in there, have not found evidence of chewed wires. I will do the input/output signal test in the morning. I am assuming the ECCS relay is one and the same with the ECU relay as I couldn’t find an ECU relay. Thanks


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Yes, ECCS relay = ECU relay.

I'd still: Confirm if both the ECCS relay and the Ign relay are "clicking on" when ign sw turned to ON? And, that they click off when ign sw turned off and key removed.

And, I'd still confirm good V - and ground - at the crank angle sensor?

I agree with SMJ on the battery [and (+) and (-) cables and FLinks checks], but I had presumed you had a new battery - had to have a new one. Do you have a battery conductance tester (not a load tester)?

Does radio retain settings (from car off to car back on)?

Does horn sound?

Any chance the FP did not get reconnected correctly?

How long did you continuously energize it to remove some of the fuel?


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

Ok, so the fuseable links check out good. The only relay that is clicking when the ignition is turned on is the second one from drivers door, ACC. The other 3 do nothing. I have a relay that the cap came off that I can see moving. I am attaching a portion of the ecu input output signal inspection. I made the sheet from the fsm of things I can check without the engine running. I have power at 2nd pin from front of car on the crank sensor. Black/white wire.


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

And yes the horn blows, I removed the radio, and I only energized the fuel pump for 30 seconds or so. The tank was removed, I hand pumped most of it and for shits and giggles hit the pump harness with the power probe and it pumped, so I pumped a little out and dumped the last little bit. The tank and everything is reinstalled( a full tank of bad fuel was where I began). I also cracked open the ECU today. No corrosion whatsoever, no visable burnt spots, diodes or caps, no breaks in either board. Put back together and reinstalled.


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Check the ECU fuse in the dash (engine control).

Explain further and state where this is <I have a relay that the cap came off that I can see moving. >.

Normally, when the crank sensor has its V, it routes through the SECONDARY circuit on the ECCS or Ign relay. You have the V, but you say the relays aren't clicking. Can you lay your fingers on each relay, separately, and re-confirm if they are or are not closing the secondary circuit (clicking on)?

And you show 14Vs at Ign sw ON pin at ECU and at ECU's power inputs??? Not 12.xish?? Starting V looks correct for 12.xish. What's battery V, when you see 14+V on these ECU pins?? 

And can you re-confirm the FP relay is or is not clicking - WITH your fingers on it?

There is a joint connector between FLs and relays (after Ign Sw) and between them and the ECU.


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

The relay I have is a duralast/autozone that I bought as a replacement for the fuel pump relay early on. The cap came off of it immediately. I powered the fuel pump relay(stock) and the autozone one, both with the power probe and they both clicked. I now have been using the autozone one to check the relay circut. I take the stock ones out, put it in and turn the key and see if it clicks.


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

And the V was 14 cause I had the charger on low on the battery. It was cranking slow Friday evening and I wanted to make sure I had a reading


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

14 V (car not running) explained; good; thanks.

What's the age and state of the battery? Old from 3 or more years ago also?


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

Yes, old battery. Was clocking in at 12.1 this morning


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Thanks. Well, so the amps are gone, then.


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

I’ve got a good top post in my Eurovan. I’ll try that tomorrow


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## TheGrateRonzini (Feb 24, 2018)

Hey Guys. Thank you for all the help. After running extensive tests and going through all applicable pages of the FSM, I determined that the only thing left was the ECU. I ordered the non-Cali emissions manual trans CA18DET computer from Rock Auto. Was the cheapest I could find and figured, might as well. Well I installed the ECU and hooked up the battery, and wouldn’t you know it, the LED lights on the computer lit up. Fuel pump buzzing, I cycled the key. Sure enough, ol Rita fired up! Thanks again!


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## Car guy (Mar 31, 2016)

Congrats! And, nice work, throughout.

Thanks for letting folks know.
@smj999smj made another good call then, on his post.


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