# Trunk will not lock



## Oakville XT (Apr 26, 2010)

My trunk will not lock, does anybody has this problem. Is it the latch that needs to be replaced? Dealer needs minimum $100 plus tax for labor and the parts assuming it is the latch $195 plus tax. They say it could also be the actuator problem?

Appreciate any help


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## Stealth2424 (Feb 13, 2007)

hey there.. i m having the same problem... i can t tell if its frozen or a n electrical/mech issue... What did you do to fix yours?


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## clydesider (Jan 1, 2008)

Stealth2424 said:


> hey there.. i m having the same problem... i can t tell if its frozen or a n electrical/mech issue... What did you do to fix yours?


When mine started playing up,I found that a good soaking of the mechanism with penetrating oil solved the problem.
Mike


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## Stealth2424 (Feb 13, 2007)

clydesider said:


> When mine started playing up,I found that a good soaking of the mechanism with penetrating oil solved the problem.
> Mike


hey thanks for the reply....

I ve ruled out the locked being frozen... there is zero sound from the hatch area when i try to lock it so i m leaning towards it being electrical.... where all did you soak with penetrating oil?


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## clydesider (Jan 1, 2008)

Stealth2424 said:


> hey thanks for the reply....
> 
> I ve ruled out the locked being frozen... there is zero sound from the hatch area when i try to lock it so i m leaning towards it being electrical.... where all did you soak with penetrating oil?


I used WD40 penetrating fluid to lubricate the lock mechanism on the tailgate. Unlike your's, mine was still making the sound as if it was trying to lock, so this suggests that you may have an electrical rather than a mechanical problem.
Mike


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## Stealth2424 (Feb 13, 2007)

Hey thanks Mike...
Ya thats kind of what I was thinking as well since i don't hear anything... Is there a relay or something like that in the rear door I should check? anyone?


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## gpieon (Jun 10, 2008)

Mine hasn't worked for months. I ruled out the mechanism, as I removed it and pulsed it with my spare battery. It worked fine. One of the tests I did from the maintenance manual said there should be 12V at the connector with the ign off. Test failed. Now I have to find the time to check continuity from the connector to the unit in the dashboard.


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## xXJalgXx (Dec 4, 2010)

Mine has been getting harder and harder to close, in the beginning you would'nt need any force to close the trunk, but now you have to slam it, or else the "door open" light would turn on.

What do you guys recommend?

Thanks!


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## Frank Martin (Feb 1, 2011)

xXJalgXx said:


> Mine has been getting harder and harder to close, in the beginning you would'nt need any force to close the trunk, but now you have to slam it, or else the "door open" light would turn on.
> 
> What do you guys recommend?
> 
> Thanks!


I've noticed that a few times, I know a lot of the issue with mine is the latch itself, it tends to stick open and not spring back - if I specifially push the latch back to the closed position before shutting the door it holds every time.


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## Snork (Apr 23, 2007)

*Rear Hatch Lock*

I found that I had broken wires on the left hand side of the tail gate up in the rubber hose that goes from the tail gate to the body. I don't know if anyone else is having the same issue or not. If you order the wire harness you will need to order the rubber hose as well. Wire harness Part # is (24051-8H300) and the hose # (24260-8H320)


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## Dave France (Aug 10, 2014)

May or may not be helpful, but this happened once during a period when we used to go to the Nissan dealer for service (embarrassed), so they sort of knew us. After much trouble shooting myself, we finally stopped in to make an appointment. But the lead mechanic just walked out, I think with a screwdriver, and made some very simple fix. It was like a simple hook had come off or something. I was embarrassed how easy it was - so easy I didn't even make notes about how to fix it next time. Of course now, five years later, it has happened again, and here I am surfing the web trying to find any info on that simple fix. I have ruled out electrical problem. Our remote hasn't worked for years and years, but the problem now is that the back hatch won't even lock when using the key manually in the front door. It is possible to lock it manually from inside, but very inconvenient. Anyway, just a heads up and it might be worth poking the thing some more before paying for an expensive part of some expensive mechanic time. It literally took the guy 30 seconds, and suspiciously, he knew EXACTLY what the problem was...


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Dave I cannot see how that is a helpful story for anyone

You should replace the batteries in your remotes and reprogram them. 
Maybe the original fix involved adjusting the striker. Otherwise its easy to remove the plastic panel on the inside of your hatch so that you can get at the lock mechanism.
Do you remember if the original mechanic took anything apart?


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## Do Bamboo (May 3, 2010)

Snork said:


> I found that I had broken wires on the left hand side of the tail gate up in the rubber hose that goes from the tail gate to the body. I don't know if anyone else is having the same issue or not. If you order the wire harness you will need to order the rubber hose as well. Wire harness Part # is (24051-8H300) and the hose # (24260-8H320)


My hatch lock stopped working too. Found broken wire as described above. Spliced and wrapped it with electrical tape. Problem solved,


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Now I have this problem!! Sometimes I feel like I am playing Whack-a Mole...solve one issue, and another pops up!
It was not locking, so I sprayed lubricant in there, and after awhile it worked again for a week or so. Then a couple of days ago, it stopped locking. All the other doors lock when I use the remote thingy, so must be something like what happened to others on here. We will open'er up and see what we can break while we root around...


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

When you say not locking, that means it is closing and latching properly, but that it won<t lock with the fob or button on the door?
Hopefully its the actuator rather than a broken wire in loom. You may want to get one off one of those used x trails you found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_exTnURqBk


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Correct. It closes but does not lock, either with fob or door switch. How can we tell if it is the actuator? With a volt meter thingy?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Yup, and same thing to check the wiring for continuity, but I doubt its the wiring loom. I don<t think that is as likely, and there have not been many posts about such an issue. I would just try and get a used one and replace the actuator. The back panel is easy to undo and it seems you will already be opening it up to change the wiper motor assembly. Mind you I am pretty that could be fixed using the instructions I posted this past winter. Mine has been working like new since the repair.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Yup, and same thing to check the wiring for continuity, but I doubt its the wiring loom. I don<t think that is as likely, and there have not been many posts about such an issue. I would just try and get a used one and replace the actuator. The back panel is easy to undo and it seems you will already be opening it up to change the wiper motor assembly. Mind you I am pretty that could be fixed using the instructions I posted this past winter. Mine has been working like new since the repair.


Can you direct me to those instructions?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

http://www.nissanforums.com/x-trail/228001-rear-wiper-issues.html

Interesting that Chadn had problems with his wiring....


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

The parts guy is checking to see if he has a good actuator left; said he sells lots of them, and wants $50.00. Is that reasonable? Also, hubby does not have a proper voltmeter...just some gizmo with a light that goes on. Maybe it is a wire? A fuse???


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Sounds fair to me. Hope he still has one. Maybe your existing one can be repaired.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Well, my mechanic had a good chuckle...turns out it was a broken wire!! So now I have this thing! My fault for not getting it diagnosed first...I assume it is a functioning part so I will try and sell it, I guess. No returns on electrical parts from these guys...

On the good side, there were a few broken wires, and one of them fixed my rear wiper-with-a-mind-of-its-own, and it now wipes the correct amount of strokes, and always stops at the bottom...at least so far! And hopefully the other one will solve the non-functioning rear defrost but can't tell that till later when it gets cold!


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## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

molly said:


> Well, my mechanic had a good chuckle...turns out it was a broken wire!! So now I have this thing! My fault for not getting it diagnosed first...I assume it is a functioning part so I will try and sell it, I guess. No returns on electrical parts from these guys...
> 
> On the good side, there were a few broken wires, and one of them fixed my rear wiper-with-a-mind-of-its-own, and it now wipes the correct amount of strokes, and always stops at the bottom...at least so far! And hopefully the other one will solve the non-functioning rear defrost but can't tell that till later when it gets cold!


I think it's pretty common. The parts guy I deal with says they replace a lot of the rear harnesses in x-trails. It was an easy thing to replace. Even with having to take some of the interior paneling apart.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Chadn,
Good to hear from you. So did you replace the whole rear wiring loom or did you splice and replace broken individual wires? Maybe the loom is less expensive than I thought, but I thought it would run around 200 or 300.
Guess what Molly, last night my rear wiper decided to have a life of its own. I will have to do some investigation, but I think you guys have pointed out the most likely cause. Where is it exactlty that the wire coverings are cracking? My guess is the bend where it goes into the door from the top, but actual experience as to where this is occurring would be useful.


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## chadn (Jan 28, 2010)

quadraria10 said:


> Hi Chadn,
> Good to hear from you. So did you replace the whole rear wiring loom or did you splice and replace broken individual wires? Maybe the loom is less expensive than I thought, but I thought it would run around 200 or 300.
> Guess what Molly, last night my rear wiper decided to have a life of its own. I will have to do some investigation, but I think you guys have pointed out the most likely cause. Where is it exactlty that the wire coverings are cracking? My guess is the bend where it goes into the door from the top, but actual experience as to where this is occurring would be useful.


I replaced the entire harness. There are probably 15 or so wires in the harness. The time it would take to trouble shoot, cut, solder and repair wires just wasn't worth it. And then if you only replace some of the wires, when will the other ones break? 

The harness was only $150 including tax. 

The hard part of the job is actually getting one part of the harness to the rear brake light.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the answer Chadn. I agree with your thinking about replacing the whole thing, however it will be a bit more involved in mine as it will mean rewiring the back up camera as well. Not that that is the end of the world. I suspect though that it is simply cracking at a specific spot, where there is a bend, and that some electrical tape will do wonders. Admittedly that is short term thinking, so maybe I will order a loom and examine the old one to see where the problem occurred.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

I am pretty sure he just fixed the broken wires, as we did not have a harness thingy. He said four were broken, and I believe it was up where it bends, like you said.
Anyway, so cool to have my wiper behaving hisself, haha...


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

Update: Not sure if this is a coincidence, but now my rear washer will now not put out any fluid! The pump is going, but nothing comes out! I wonder if he inadvertently did something to a wire when he taped the other ones up, which resulted in my new-to-me rear wiper finally stopping and starting properly...It can't be a fuse if the pump works for the front wipers, can it? Guess I will have him look at it next oil change....sigh.


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## Andrei9000 (Jul 24, 2016)

Mine had some wires broken in the hatch.


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## molly (Oct 31, 2014)

In case anyone has this problem and needs an actuator, I have one!! I paid fifty bucks plus shipping.


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