# Headlight Issue, COMPLETELY baffled, not even an electrical engineer could help.



## jesseh1990 (Aug 25, 2012)

So, I have a 1992 Nissan D21 Pickup 2wd with a 2.4 engine in it. I am having a headlight issue, And it has completely baffled me. 

So the headlights work intermittently, but very infrequently. All the park lights work and so do interior lights. Flip the switch to headlights, no lights come on, no high beams or flash to pass either. Fuses are good as well as the fusible link. Swapped out the switch with a known good one, still nothing happens. 

With the switch off I get power all the way to the switch, with the switch on I get no power no where. take the switch out and jumper from the red wire to red/black wire (right headlamp) get no power anywhere. Same story for the left headlamp circuit as well. Seems if i break the circuit, i get power everywhere I should, but once I complete the circuit all power is lost.


----------



## cbrer (Apr 22, 2013)

Check and see if your truck is equipped with a headlight relay. If so, swap out with another one. Either one in the relay box, or a new one. Please post fix.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Well, since he only made the 1 post and it was 8 months ago, I doubt that he will!


----------



## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Maybe the electrical engineer (which as we know are always the BEST option to go with when dealing with automotive issues) fixed it...


----------



## Ding1 (Dec 7, 2012)

Had a similar problem,I had to go into the emergency flasher switch and clean it up.Had corrosion on the contact points.Once cleaned,ALL my lights worked again,even the side runners.May or may not be your problem but it sure fixed my problems.Couldn't figure if I had a short or what.Friend said he had a problem on a pathfinder and sure enough he dove into the emergency switch,cleaned it and they work.This is in case ANYONE else may have similar problems.


----------



## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

And there ya go...
What does an electrical engineer know about corrosion?


----------



## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

I once knew an intermittently working electrical engineer.


----------



## cbrer (Apr 22, 2013)

Excuse me while I say...DOH!


----------



## jnorth400 (May 14, 2013)

I have a similar problem with my 87 4x4 v6 pickup. Both headlights work on bright but the drivers side headlight does not work on dim. Also the dash panel doesn't light up when lights are on. Only the right blinker indicator works but actual blinkers work on both sides. Changed both headlights and it didn't fix the problem. Cleaned the connectors and still no dim light on the drivers side. Fuses good too. Will try the hazard switch cleaning tomorrow. If that doesn't work are there any other ideas?


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If by "dim" you are talking about the low beams, I would be more inclined to look at the headlight switch as the problem.


----------



## 91NissanTruckOwner (Aug 5, 2008)

smj999smj said:


> If by "dim" you are talking about the low beams, I would be more inclined to look at the headlight switch as the problem.


I have an issue with dim low beams, and the high beams don't seem as bright as they should be either. I replaced the switch. What are some other common causes?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


----------



## HerronScott (Jun 2, 2013)

Probably not your problem, but we had a similar issue with very dim low and high beams. Problem was caused by the reflective part of the headlights wasn't any reflective any more. Couldn't tell if it had peeled or corroded in some way. Standard Sylvania sealed beam halogens.

Replaced the headlights and all is good again.

Scott


----------



## pap6ma (Jun 13, 2013)

I had headlight issues with one bulb working on Low and then the opposite light on High beam. inspected turn signal switch, corrosion and worn contacts. Changed turn signal switch and that fixed it.


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Dim lights are usually caused by poor grounding....or insufficient voltage due to low charging system voltage.


----------



## Old95pos (Mar 24, 2014)

I have a 95 plain 4 cyl. 2wd pickup. About every 2 years I go through a cycle of the battery going, then the alternator. Have replaced the battery and alternator, at idle, everything is fine. If battery is fully charged, I can make my 42 mile commute fine. If I rely on the truck to keep the battery charged, it fails me. I also have trouble with the speedometer just dropping to 0 and staying there. A rap on the dash usually fixes that....!! Anyway, I have had the alternator checked both on and off the vehicle, tests fine. I'm just losing power somewhere between the alternator and battery. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.


----------



## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

jdg said:


> Maybe the electrical engineer (which as we know are always the BEST option to go with when dealing with automotive issues) fixed it...


Lol!

Are electrical engineers in the Yellow Pages?


----------



## ajriding (May 10, 2010)

Likely you have bad contact on the switch. The part that is in the lever off of the steering column is the switch - the part you touch. Take it apart to fix or just replace it and be done with it. 
The running lights, low and high beams work off this. Little metal pieces move to touch other metal pieces to complete the electrical circuit. When they get slightly corroded they will not work. It might not even look corroded, but is. 
You will have 12V if you test it, but not enough amps running through to light up a headlight. It may work sometimes, may not others. Purchases some electrical cleaner from auto parts store. You will need to clean it well, then treat it so it does not corrode again.
As mentioned above the hazard flashers might be in the running light circuit, I do not know, so that could be related.


----------



## CMax03 (Jan 17, 2009)

Old95pos said:


> I have a 95 plain 4 cyl. 2wd pickup. About every 2 years I go through a cycle of the battery going, then the alternator. Have replaced the battery and alternator, at idle, everything is fine. If battery is fully charged, I can make my 42 mile commute fine. If I rely on the truck to keep the battery charged, it fails me. I also have trouble with the speedometer just dropping to 0 and staying there. A rap on the dash usually fixes that....!! Anyway, I have had the alternator checked both on and off the vehicle, tests fine. I'm just losing power somewhere between the alternator and battery. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.


 Clean your grounding points....
You can do this:

1. Measure the battery with the engine off
2. Start engine and measure the voltage at the battery with nothing on other than the engine running
3. Place a load on the electrical system now, turn on your hi-Beams, emergency flashers, a/c, blower on full speed, and apply the brakes if possible! Now check you battery voltage hopefully it's more than 12.5 volts! Normally system work under load at 13.5 volts...


----------



## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The speedometer issue is common on many mid-90's Nissans. Replace the speedo head. For a temporary fix, tighten the four bolts at the back of the instrument cluster that hold the speedo head to the cluster back. It might last a few days, months, who knows?


----------

