# New or Rebuilt Engine Option



## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

Had my 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5s for about a month now (was a salvaged). It ran pretty well until one day it quit on me. One mechanic said i simply needed a new head gasket (water/coolant was discovered in the oil) the oil was a milky color (had 2 oil changes, first time this happened) a second opinion discovered i needed a entirely new engine. Apparently the past owner had a head job done and the welding job was shoddy.

Is it best to get the engine rebuilt get a used engine or an entirely new engine or is the car too far gone.And where does one get a new engine from.

Any help would be appreciated


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## cdmorenot (Dec 22, 2005)

i would honestly would just drop a junk yard engine in there..


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

Im highly considering getting a used engine of a "written off" model i've seen at a local salvage yard, but the thougt of a reuccurence and expense is making me think twice.
I would love to have my car around another 3-4 years before really selling it for a newer model. So a new "less problematic" engine is still a tempting offer.

The 2nd mechanic said the 1st mechanic simply didnt know what he was dealing with and all I have to do is get the head fixed a specailist shop aquire a new head gasket kit and put the engine back in. I will see how this solution pans out after the holidays n notify this thread a.s.a.p.


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## cdmorenot (Dec 22, 2005)

sometimes the cheaper.. easier way when it comes to time and labor is just going with a swap.. with deal with alot of blown head gaskets at the shop and most of the times the best option is getting a good junkyard motor.. last month we had an es300 and a v8 aurora come in.. both times the best thing were swaps..


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

*The trouble continues with no Answer in Sight*

What are the chances of aquiring a new engine from a dealer and having it shipped. Ive had 2 mechanics under my hood now since my last post

(1) Mechanic number one took the head down and discoverd the "milky oil" and disassembled it only to say a repair is possible via welding but the problem would arise agian (a synopsis that could be truthful).

(2) Mechcanic number two said after looking at what the first did said he probably has little or no experience with the Altima engine and said a repair to the aluminum head(shave it) and a new head gasket kit is all thats needed, no need to purchase a whole new engine.

The head is currently at a specialty shop that primarily repairs aluminum heads etc.
So Im waiting on their verdict.What troubles me is that the roumur im now hearing is that after a head job these engines never run the same (less power,noisier).

So I am hoping someone hear has either had this problem and had it solved successfully or has purchased a new engine from a dealer or a used engine and has some what of a success story to share with me, cuase i much as id hate 2 selling the car is sad option im considering (placed alot of work on the enterior n exterior)


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## LONDONDERRY (May 19, 2004)

just replace the motor, it will be cheaper and more dependable in the long run


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## rps180 (Aug 20, 2005)

If you do purchase a motor from Nissan, they do not come "Brand new". They are all remanufactured (at least that is all I have seen recently).
If you want peace of mind, go with the reman engine. I have a feeling that the labor you might be getting charged for the head gasket replacement may run you the same amount. Make sure you ask how much they would charge you first tho.


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

*Almost Complete (Give Or Take)*

Well I finally got the engine head back, clean and shaved, with signs of any cracks just a slight "warp" if thats the correct terminology. Anyway the head was replaced back on the block with a new head gasket kit and the engine started up "after a lil coaxing" and the white smoke still came out the exhaust but after a few mins this dissipated. Only signs now of any engine trouble is the "airbag" light and "check engine" lights still lit on the gauge cluster, that and a rough idle the seems to be stemming from a lack of compression in one of the valves / lifters (im still not 2 sure yet). Im hoping after a few start ups this too will simmer down to norm.
Special thanks to everyone who has posted to my thread, you were a heap of help
Laslty if anyone has any knowledge they can lend on the remaining issues i stated above your help will be greatly appreciated


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## rps180 (Aug 20, 2005)

Did you replace all the spark plugs?
Check engine light might be related to your rough idle (misfire code possibly).
Anywho, check the codes, note them, clear them out, then see if they get come back on.


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

Yep replaced all the spark plugs and the lack of compression seems to be coming from one of the a.k.a. the rough idle. Im being told thats cause the mechanic didnt place oil in the cylinders after he fixed the head to make sure it kept the compression or something.

As far as the check engine light thats still a mystery and the "airabg symbol" light is also still light, but how does who check n clear the codes i know it has something to do with pressing and releasing the brake.


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

Just got back from having a computer diagnostic done to my car and it read something of a multi-misfire. It looks like cylinder #1 and #4 are accumulating some oil thus causing the rough idle and smoke upon start-up.
Im was told that the head it self and all other sensors are fine but the lower half (below the head- block i guess) is the problem as far as the cylinders go.
My question is now is this part replacable or are my worstest fears real and i need a new engine entirely. Caue utterly im lost.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You can get a short block assy. You'll need to compare the expense vs. getting a used engine, if you can find one.


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## Caribbean Dude (Dec 24, 2006)

Ok it's been some time so heres an update on whats going on: I had a "specialist" take a look look over the engine and the obII code (p0300) and he stated a simple replacement of the cylinder rings and perhaps valve seals to certain and all the rough idling and smoke out the tail pipe at start-up would cease. My thing is, does anyone know of this actually being factual or had any prior experience with these symptoms


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## 2ndb18 (Oct 24, 2004)

just put an engine in it man. There so easy to do, its almost less of a hassle than takin the whole head apart for valve seals, or re-ringing it.


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