# timeing chain replacement info. need



## caretaker (Apr 21, 2011)

i have a 96 2.4 nissan pickup with 220 k on it and hear spome chain chatter i think. can a reasonably mach. fellow do this? caretaker


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The labor is fairly intensive; it'll normally take you 6 to 8 hours. Before you start, get a hold of an FSM. Buy a quality timing chain kit; preferably from a Nissan dealer; beware of some Ebay cheap kits.


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## caretaker (Apr 21, 2011)

*thanks*

thank-you for your input rogoman ,sounds pretty deep prob. should pay a pro. caretaker


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey caretaker. Did you have a look at the timing chain write up on this site? Lays out the entire procedure really well.

If your truck is 4WD, it's a little more complicated as the oil pan can't be removed (unless you drop the front differential).


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## caretaker (Apr 21, 2011)

thanks Grug, I'll see can I find that write up. Caretaker


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

It's a "sticky" in the beginning of the Hardbody form.


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

I used the writeup as my guide and DIYed it a year ago. That job is not easy, and it ook me a solid weekend because i workd slowly and cautiously. I read too many posts from people who accidentally skipped a step and had to redo the whole thing.

BTW, no mater where you get your kit (definitely get it from a dealer), make sure you get the gray sealant (a big tube of it) and an oil filter. IT doesn't hut to have access to a parts washer. I borrowed one and some brass brushes from my neighbor.


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## caretaker (Apr 21, 2011)

thanks hans747 ! thats some good input.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Hey Hans, what would you say was the toughest part of the entire job? Also, did you ever get to the point (while you were deep into the job) and you regretted tackling it in the first place?


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

Nothing on this job is so technical that it's impossible to do. It's more like doing 15 smaller projects all at once.

Toughest part was keeping everything in order. My neighbor is a BMW motorcycle mechanic, and he showed me a trick: Every time you take a bolt out to remove a part, thread the bolt back on to the part it came from. It makes putting everything back together a breeze. I also went through a ton of sandwich bags to keep things in order. As i removed parts, I placed them in the bed of the truck in chronological order. That way, i knew what i was going to put back on next.

The next hardest part was probably putting the timing cover back on. It's kinda awkward, and you're doing it with a bunch of wet sealant. So I was concerned about missing and making a mess. I did miss a little, but it all worked out.

I bought my parts kit from a dealership in Ca. It was very complete (minus the oil pump seal). Though this a good time to replace the two coolant hoses that are behind the alternator (got mine from the parts store) and the PCV valve. Trust me, you'll never have better access to those parts ever again.

Now, here's the kicker. I did this on a 2wd truck. I hear that the 4wd trucks are a ton of headaches because you have to move the front axle to drop the oil pan.

I never regretted doing it. I was just annoyed that it was taking me so long. If this is the first time you've replaced a timing chain, plan on putting about 10 hours into this thing. And make sure you have a backup car that you can drive to the parts store.

If you can wrangle a friend into this, it will go much faster. i.e. he can clean the oil pan gasket surfaces, while you're setting your chain.

The technical writeup is all i used for this job.

Good luck!


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks for the advice, Hans. I'm still considering tackling the job myself, but kinda' nervous. I don't mind setting aside a whole week and picking away at it (although I'd rather not take that long). Time is not an issue. For me, getting lost in the belly of the beast is the bigger issue.

I do have a 4WD truck, so I have the differential to worry about. I've read that some guys with the 4WD just lower the front portion of the oil pan enough to get the bottom of the cover away from the front of the engine. In doing so, they don't have to mess with the front differential.

Another part of me thinks I should just live with the rattle on start up...but I know that's not the right answer (and my motor only has 55 000 miles on it).

Decisions, decisions.

Thanks again!


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

Good thing you said that. Rattle on startup is normal. Especially if it's been sitting for a few days, it can get really loud. That is caused by the oil pressure dissipating while the engine is shut off. See, the chain tensioner is driven by oil pressure. IF that pressure goes away, the chain goes slack. That's also why the chain goes quiet after a few seconds. The pressure is back and the slack is taken out of the chain. Perfectly healthy. So, you're off the hook!

Now if you want to reduce that noise, you should go to the dealership to buy your oil filters. They cost maybe a dollar more than at the parts store, but they have a good check valve inside that will retain oil pressure longer. You won't get the chain noise as much.

Now, here's the symptom that tells you it is time to change your chain: One morning, I started my truck, it made the chain noise, and then there was a loud cracking sound followed by a mangling sound. After that, there was always chain rattle at idle and whenever I was coasting. When I opened up the timing cover, I found that the plastic chain guide had snapped. When I took off the oil pan, I found the chewed up bits of it (remember the mangling sound I was telling you about?) in the oil pan.


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

As for doing the timing chain, here's how anyone can judge if it's the job for them:

Can you change your spark plugs?
Can you remove an alternator and put it back on?
Can you set the timing with a timing light?
Can you take off a valve cover and put it back on?
Can you replace your radiator hoses?
Can you replace all your belts?
Can you unbolt a water pump and replace it?
Can you unbolt a piece of aluminum, clean the surfaces, and seal it with goop, and bolt it back up?
Can you use a torque wrench (ft/lbs and inch/lbs)?
Can you place a bicycle chain onto its sprockets?
Can you replace a distributor cap?
Can you unbolt an oil pan, clean its surfaces, seal its surfaces with goop, and bolt it back up?
Can you unbolt the oil pump and hen put it back on?
Can you keep parts in order?

If you can (or are willing to learn how to) do all these thing's listed, then you can do the timing belt. That's all the job is.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Yeah, my rattle goes away a few seconds after start up. Occasionally, there will be a 'tick' sound every 2-3 seconds (doesn't have the RPM consistency of lifters) as well as the rattle, but it goes away, too. 

What kind of shape was your timing cover in? Had the chain beat the crap out of the inside of it?

Most of the things you've listed I've done before. I've never done any work with a water pump, radiator or the associated hoses. But, I've changed brake lines, brake cylinders and bled brake lines. Have also re-packed wheel bearings. Maybe a fella' could consider those as 'equivalencies'. 

Did you clean out the oil galley that feeds the tensioner? I've read that this gets gummed up and sometimes starves the tensioner of oil. Seems the tensioner is often the culprit.

And finally, a lot of guys say re-inserting the oil pump (alignment) can be a bear. Did you have that problem?

Thanks again for your responses...they're helping.


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

My timing cover looked fine. What you're hearing at startup is more likely the chain slapping against the metal tensioner arm. I think you would have to probably snap the chain for it to contact the cover. 

Yes, installing the pump in the right position (on distributor) took a few tries to get it right. After I was done, I felt like I could do it over and over again and get it right every time. But it's been a couple years, and I forgot what I did to make it happen.

If you can service your brake system, then you can probably do this job with no sweat.

As for the oil galley, I shot it a few times with canned air. I could feel the air coming out of the oil filter mount. 

Honestly, I think you should do two things if you're worried about this:
1. Go get some good oil. Then go to your dealer and buy some OEM oil filters to keep in your garage. I always thought it was stupid that people spoke so highly of them, until I got one in my timing chain rebuild kit. I've used Frams on my truck because I change my oil religiously, and there's no need for overkill on the filter if you always have fresh oil. But the engine started so much more quietly once I had that Nissan filter.

2. pull the valve cover. That move alone will give you an idea of the state of your oiling system. If there's no sludge up there, if it looks pretty clean, then there's no need to worry about the oil galley. If it's looking a little sloppy in there, start doing some oil treatments like Marvel Mystery Oil a few miles before oil changes to slowly start cleaning the slop out. 

Trust me, you don't want to tear down the whole front of the truck for this. This engine makes some noise on startup. Most timing chained engines that use an oil-driven tensioners do. In fact, mine still makes the startup noise even with the new timing chain. It's normal. 

That's why higher-end makers moved to timing belts. They are just quieter.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Timing belt engines are quieter, but that's not the main reason they are used. They have less dynamic vibration than a timing chain. With the development of better chain design, many auto manufacturers are going away from timing belts and back to timing chains, or multiple timing chain setups. Nissan, for example, hasn't used a timing belt engine in the US since the 2002 and hasn't used one in a car in the US since the 1996 300ZX.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

I know that if the timing belt is not changed on my wife's diesel Jetta, major engine damage can result if it breaks. Interference motor...think that's what it's called. Or maybe it's non-interference. Not sure.


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## hans747 (Jul 14, 2005)

You were right the first time. Interference engines will get damaged if the belt snaps.

Thanks for the lesson, SMJ. Most of my cars are about 10 years old, so I'm not up on all this new-fangled technology!


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