# Wheel bearing @ 59k?????



## 00alti-se (Feb 20, 2010)

OK, so i purchased my 05' less than a month ago with 58k on it. had to go out of town for work,so i figured it would be a good road test- 500 miles. Running fairly smooth up until three days ago when i noticed a oscillating whir coming from the pass side floor board area-typical indication of a worn wheel bearing right?, no big deal, but no tools on hand. To the local mechanics i go..... on the rack they ask where is the lug nut key?:balls: Mother f*@*&. the previous owner neglected to include the key.A-hole.
Now I have to drive the car with a whir(whaawhaawhaa)to the dealer an hour away to get the lug nuts off, and pay 90 an hr for them to put a wheel bearing on it. SWEET!!!!
So with that being said, why is this happening @ 59k? My 00' altima-se has 210k on it, oem wheel bearings and suspension-no problems:wtf:


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## NissanPartsDept (Mar 31, 2010)

The front wheel bearings are covered under warranty for 5 years or 60,000 miles. Were you out of warranty by time?


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## 4thGenTinkerer (Nov 1, 2009)

I bet its the blinker fluid......fill that up and blast your radio. That's totally gonna fix your waaa waaa waaa sound. Lol. Seriously i have no idea what that could be. Any noticable virbation under normal driving conditions? Maybe the weight flew off your passenger side wheel? Wheel bearings going bad with that few miles seems kinda unlikly but who knows, anything is possable I guess. Good luck bro.


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## Tony Two-Tone (Feb 18, 2010)

I have a couple that are bad and I'm at 66K. Apparently it's a fairly common issue.


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## ILSER25 (Apr 16, 2010)

Wheel bearings on the SE-R's have been a problem. I had to replace both of mine at 65k. If you hit a pot hole or big enough bump it can actually dent or bend the wheel bearing forcing you to have to replace it.


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## massracer01 (Feb 9, 2010)

i have roughly 70k on my 05 SER and i have to replace the hub and the bearing and they want $225 just for the hub and bearing...does anyone know where to get these parts cheaper?


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## ILSER25 (Apr 16, 2010)

do you have to replace both or just the wheel hub bearing? If it's just the wheel hub bearing it should only be about $40-50 for the bearing but it is roughly 3 hours of labor. So that's where the majority of the cost comes into play. If you have the time and ability to do it yourself it's worth saving yourself the money about the labor.


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## massracer01 (Feb 9, 2010)

The shop said both. i cant do it becuase i guess the bearing has to be pressed in and i cant do that. they said just for parts its going to be 225 and i was wondering if there is any place besides nissan to get this. i also had to replace my front and rear engine mounts what a bitch that was they are both motorized


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## ILSER25 (Apr 16, 2010)

You can take it to any shop and have them diagnose it and then replace the parts. I had mine done at a local shop in Illinois. They were able to do my wheel hub bearing for just under $300 which was all because of the labor.


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## briguy518 (Aug 28, 2010)

*I Know this is an old post but hear me out on the wheel bearings!*

I know this is an old post, but hear me out before you flame me. 

I have a good knowledge of suspension dynamics, and I have also live through the worst wheel bearing issues in my A4. My A4 used to eat wheel bearings for breakfast, and I decided to find out why. 

If you lower your car, or have generally worn shocks and springs, your car is going to sit lower, right? Well, when your car sits lower, you get some nasty negative camber in your wheels. This is why there are suspension adjustments built into vehicles by the manufacturer, usually aligning the wheels will solve this. But, there is a certain amount of fudge-factor when the shop aligns your tires.

Now, think of negative camber. The tops of your wheels are closer to eachother than the bottoms, right? Now think of how your axle fits into the hub, and the bearing inside of that hub. The wheel, hub and bearing are all one piece, and the axle is supposed to be in line with the bearings axis of rotation. Now, when you have negative camber, the axis or rotation is slightly changed, the axle is now maybe 1-3 degrees off center. When you apply force to the axle to turn the wheel, you are actually putting shear-stresses on that bearing, because the axle is off of the center or rotation. If it were perfectly on center, the load force would be perpindicular to the bearings axis or rotation, which is what they are designed for. 

Wheel bearings were not designed nor can handle shear-stresses. Obviously they do handle some of those forces during driving, but if you have a constant negative camber it will cause premature wear on the bearing (not to mention your tires), causing it to fail.

I hope this helps, and people take this into consideration when lowering their car. 

-Brian


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