# '00 Frontier V6 2wd VG33E cold start knock, etc



## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

i recently bought this frontier with 94k on it. 

it's good so far, although i have a few issues with the engine.

i get a pretty good knock on start up...lasts maybe 2-3 seconds. i'm not sure if this is a bad thing. i've had toyotas for several years and don't remember hearing a similar noise (they were all 4 cylinder engines). any possiblity this is anything bad?

also, i get a bit of a dead spot if i hit it a bit in first gear (specifically when it's cold - and it jerks the truck back and forth pretty good) - the truck is a manual tranny. it also seems to hesitate a bit, or just doesn't feel like i'm getting it's full power (something holding it back) when higher up in 3-4-5 gears and trying to gun it a bit.

the truck is very clean, and the tune up type parts all seem in very good condition. 

mechanic i took it to mentioned the nock sensor, and that it would be a bit over $500 to fix it due to the sensor's location and the labor involved in getting to it/replacing it. 

anybody with any experience in this type of thing think the nock sensor will make a real difference in the initial and higher end acceleration?

thanks for any input - i really want this thing to work right - i like it a lot already and think i'd like it a ton if that was corrected.


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

can i not edit the thread title?!??


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## berge (Jan 17, 2007)

I've got this engine in a 99Quest and 00Frontier. can you describe this 'knock' at engine start a bit more?


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

*'00 Frontier v6 2wd vg33e*



berge said:


> I've got this engine in a 99Quest and 00Frontier. can you describe this 'knock' at engine start a bit more?


it's generally pretty short - doesn't last more than a few seconds, which are immediately after i start it...it seems to happen anytime i start it - cold or not. it's pretty noticable, and goes away quickly. i'm having a hard time thinking of a better way to describe it. not really a thud, more like i'd almost say somewhat high pitched and prominent when it does happen. it doesn't seem like a terrible thing, i don't hear it at all after that. 

the mechanic put it on his diagnotic machine and said the only thing he saw with the engine is the nock sensor...

the only thing besides this and the sensor is it feels a bit rough when i first hit the gas pedal slowly. don't know if any of that extra stuff means anything, just thought i'd throw it out there.


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## berge (Jan 17, 2007)

I think you're hearing the lifters on start up. both engines had that, cold or hot. I changed to synthetic oil and they only do it now on mornings, more pronounced in winter. it's not a big deal.

what about the knock sensor, what did the mechanic say?


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

ok cool - i was hoping it would be something similar to others, and not that big a deal. 

the mechanic said $500 + to fix the nock sensor due to it's location and the labor to move/put back the stuff to get to it.

it seems the part itself should cost just over $100.

you have two of them, i assume you like these motors? it's the first experience i've had with it, but i like it after 3 weeks.

how many miles you have on yours?


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

routex said:


> i recently bought this frontier with 94k on it.
> 
> it's good so far, although i have a few issues with the engine.
> 
> ...


Why are you worried about the knock sensor? Are you getting a check engine light and a code that indicate a failed sensor? The knock sensor is probably not related to your startup sound. The knock sensor detects detonation while the engine is operating and typically reacts by retarding the timing. This is not likely to be a problem on a cold engine. 

The startup sounds are most likely lubrication related especially since it only occurs during the startup before oil pressure is established. 

Steve


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

azrocketman said:


> Why are you worried about the knock sensor? Are you getting a check engine light and a code that indicate a failed sensor? The knock sensor is probably not related to your startup sound. The knock sensor detects detonation while the engine is operating and typically reacts by retarding the timing. This is not likely to be a problem on a cold engine.
> 
> The startup sounds are most likely lubrication related especially since it only occurs during the startup before oil pressure is established.
> 
> Steve



steve - i wasn't correlating the knock sensor and the start up sound. 

i have some performance issues - one being when i accelerate initially in first gear, get a pretty good miss, or hesitation. the other being at the top end of 3-4-5 gears, if feels as if it's missing when i accelerate. the mechanic says its the nock sensor. i thought i'd come here and see if anyone else knew about this or has experienced anything similar.

jason


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

routex said:


> steve - i wasn't correlating the knock sensor and the start up sound.
> 
> i have some performance issues - one being when i accelerate initially in first gear, get a pretty good miss, or hesitation. the other being at the top end of 3-4-5 gears, if feels as if it's missing when i accelerate. the mechanic says its the nock sensor. i thought i'd come here and see if anyone else knew about this or has experienced anything similar.
> 
> jason


Is the check engine light on? If so, is it indicating a knock sensor code? I'm not convinced that a knock sensor would cause a miss. It might cause hesitation. How did the mechanic isolate the problem to the knock sensor?

Steve


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

azrocketman said:


> Is the check engine light on? If so, is it indicating a knock sensor code? I'm not convinced that a knock sensor would cause a miss. It might cause hesitation. How did the mechanic isolate the problem to the knock sensor?
> 
> Steve


the light is not on. i'm not sure it's a miss, but it feels as if it's struggling to get it's full power at the top end of gears 3-4 (i haven't really pushed 5 come to think of it). the mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine they have, and said it indicated the nock sensor...i don't know if that was just a code, or something else the machine indicated (i have no idea if those things do anything but spit out codes). 

i almost wish there was something else wrong in the vacinity of it, just so they could do something else while doing $400+ worth of labor.


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

routex said:


> the light is not on. i'm not sure it's a miss, but it feels as if it's struggling to get it's full power at the top end of gears 3-4 (i haven't really pushed 5 come to think of it). the mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine they have, and said it indicated the nock sensor...i don't know if that was just a code, or something else the machine indicated (i have no idea if those things do anything but spit out codes).
> 
> i almost wish there was something else wrong in the vacinity of it, just so they could do something else while doing $400+ worth of labor.


I'd get a second opinion before I replaced the knock sensor. If all the mechanic did was read a code then that leaves the problem open to further diagnostics before you replace the sensor (a bad sensor code can also be a bad connector, damaged wiring, etc.) I'd also look at all the obvious tune up things like plugs, wires, fuel filter (this one for sure), etc. I'd also look at the EGR system to see if it's not blocked by carbon. I think, if you truly had a miss or misfire that the check engine light would come on.

Also, you're at 94k miles. You're due for a timing belt at 105k. I'm reaching here, but I'd put a new belt on it and see if that cures some of the problems (I'm a 4 cylinder owner so I'm not as familiar with the 6 cylinder).

Steve


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## BHShaman (Jan 24, 2007)

Interesting.
I have a '00 SE V6.
Last week my speedo died and then on the way home it sputtered.
NO check engine light was on.
Took it to the shop on the way home as I could not make it home with it pulsing and nearly stalling. 
They cleaned out the air filter (mouse had completely choked it out with garage insulation) and it is running like a top again.

Speedo is still not working, but they also found a Knock Sensor code.
Now I have the truck back waiting on delivery of the Speedo and it is running just like it always was.
But now my Check Engine light IS on. 

Thoughts?


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

BHShaman said:


> Interesting.
> I have a '00 SE V6.
> Last week my speedo died and then on the way home it sputtered.
> NO check engine light was on.
> ...


Clear the light and see if it reoccurs. You had a significant malfunction that may have triggered other codes falsely. You can clear the light with an OBD II code reader. You can buy the readers for about $70.00 to $100.00 or have a parts store like Autozone connect a reader for free, read the code, and clear it. Also, if the malfunction is gone,the OBD II will clear the light on its own (may take several drives before it clears the code).

By the way, are you sure the speedo is bad or did your mouse "friend" eat some connections?

Steve


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## routex (Jan 24, 2007)

azrocketman said:


> I'd get a second opinion before I replaced the knock sensor. If all the mechanic did was read a code then that leaves the problem open to further diagnostics before you replace the sensor (a bad sensor code can also be a bad connector, damaged wiring, etc.) I'd also look at all the obvious tune up things like plugs, wires, fuel filter (this one for sure), etc. I'd also look at the EGR system to see if it's not blocked by carbon. I think, if you truly had a miss or misfire that the check engine light would come on.
> 
> Also, you're at 94k miles. You're due for a timing belt at 105k. I'm reaching here, but I'd put a new belt on it and see if that cures some of the problems (I'm a 4 cylinder owner so I'm not as familiar with the 6 cylinder).
> 
> Steve


Steve - thanks for your input. i've been thinking of taking it to peoria nissan and letting them check it out.

according to the mechanic, the tune up type stuff (plugs, wires, etc) are good and recent. i was thinking of the fuel filter myself based on past experience. is the egr stuff something a non mechanic can deal with? i'm usually ok with this type stuff once i get familiar with it, although i am surely no mechanic.

i know the belt is upcoming, i was hoping to hold off on it a bit...until it's closer to the recommended mileage. guess i'll do that early as a last resort.


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## berge (Jan 17, 2007)

routex said:


> ok cool - i was hoping it would be something similar to others, and not that big a deal.
> 
> the mechanic said $500 + to fix the nock sensor due to it's location and the labor to move/put back the stuff to get to it.
> 
> ...


It a good, torquey motor that's been tuned totally for low end power. the irregular power curve is on both mine and at first I was convinced there was something wrong, but there isn't. that's just how it is. don't worry about top end performance, there is none. if you have a 5 speed, shift at 3500rpm, max, and be done with it. no real point going higher.
as far as a tune-up, get a fsm, it really is invaluable. the spark plugs take 1 hour to change. 10minutes for the first five, 50 minutes for the last one. you'll know when you look. make sure that one is done as on BOTH my vehicles that sixth plug had never been touched. 
everybody complains about the fuel economy but I think it is what it is. it's no better and no worse than anything of that vintage out there. it's a very, very well designed truck/minivan engine.


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## BHShaman (Jan 24, 2007)

azrocketman said:


> Clear the light and see if it reoccurs......
> 
> By the way, are you sure the speedo is bad or did your mouse "friend" eat some connections?
> 
> Steve


I figured when they put in the Speedo they'll re-clear the codes.
Working 10hr days and subzero temps do not encourage me to start tracing wires.
is it an easy trace?


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## Two Bills (Jan 15, 2007)

I've always got a knock sensor code set. I just ignore it.
Check the ignition timing. It s/b at 10 degrees btdc, +/- 2 degrees. I keep mine around 12. 
I don't think the fuel filter does much more than trap bigger particles. Swap it anyway.
Give it a set of fresh plugs.


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## Oldnissanguy (Jan 6, 2005)

routex said:


> Steve - thanks for your input. i've been thinking of taking it to peoria nissan and letting them check it out.
> 
> according to the mechanic, the tune up type stuff (plugs, wires, etc) are good and recent. i was thinking of the fuel filter myself based on past experience. is the egr stuff something a non mechanic can deal with? i'm usually ok with this type stuff once i get familiar with it, although i am surely no mechanic.
> 
> i know the belt is upcoming, i was hoping to hold off on it a bit...until it's closer to the recommended mileage. guess i'll do that early as a last resort.


Something else to check, are you using Nissan filters? My truck does the same thing when I use aftermarket filters.


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## abmobil (Nov 22, 2004)

The knock sensor is a EXTREMELY common part to fail on the Frontier v6.
It will not set off a check engine light ,and 99% of the time will not affect performance.

It will affect peformace pretty bad with the S/C engine ,but you dont have that so your good there.

Have you checked the oil?
If it is overfilled it will cause that initial cold start knock.
For the 1st 10k on my dads 01 S/C crew I was having a hard time reading the dip stick ,and I always put 5 quarts in.

I could never figure out why a brand new truck was making that noise.
Then I figuered out I was over filling it and now with 138k its had no problems.

I use 4 quarts per oil change ,but I think the actual capacity is closer to 3.5 but 4 wont give you any problems.


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## BHShaman (Jan 24, 2007)

So...

They get the speedo in and pull apart the dash.
Reetst the speed sensor and get nothing in the dash.
They replace the speed sensor and put back in the original speedo.

Everything works, O/D light no longer blinks on start up and no more Check Engine Light.
$300 bucks.


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