# Stalls, P0340 & P0011, Chain already changed



## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

Hey!

I'm reaching out for ideas what to do next with my X-trail T30 2004.

Recently my car stalled right out of the blue while on a motorway going 120kmh. I pulled over and tried to start. At first it wouldn't go and the cranking felt & sounded laborous, like if the battery was really low. After a couple tries the car started again and ran fine all the way home. Ever since the car has stalled a handful of times, and is sometimes rough on ignition. Might even die on startup. I've gotten the check engine light and just read the codes: P0340 (camshaft) and P0011 (intake valve solenoid?).

Now as the title suggest, the dreadful P0340 code is all too familiar to me, as I had it just half a year ago. I replaced both sensors, cam & crank, back then and as that didn't help, I ended up getting the timing chain changed. Car was fine after that and the mechanic said that the chain had streched to the max. 

Now only months after dropping 1,5k euros on my car, the same codes and very similar issues have risen again. What gives? Right now I'm trying to translate that solenoid into finnish so I could check what that particular part costs. Changing it seems like something that I could do myself.

All help is greatly appreciated!


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

Is it possible that the cam chain is new but the tensioner was not changed? It may have failed.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

What type of engine do you have? Could well be the valve solenoid.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-V...For-Nissan-Infiniti-23796-EA000-/252958693536

The above is the part number for a 2006 2.5 engine. It should also be the same on the 2.0. 
You could look it up here
http://nissan4u.com/parts/x_trail/

I looked at the 2004 and it's in the engine mechanical section. They provide an older part number, but the above ebay link has the newer part number. It's widely used in a number of Nissan and Infiniti models. Does not look hard to access or change.

Unless the engine was making awful sounds prior I wouldn't think its the chain. And based on what you spent for the repair I would think the mechanic was a pro and that he would have changed the tensioner and guides at the same time. How dirty is your engine oil? From what I have read that can have an effect as well. Good luck.

In case you don't have the service manual, this might help.
https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/nissan/x-trail-2004-4145


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

Thanks a ton for the replies!

The engine is a 2.5L petrol.

They indeed installed a "chain kit" including at least the guides but I'm not sure if the tensioner was part of it. I have to call them tomorrow and check that out. I sure do hope that the problem lies elsewhere, getting that chain cover opened again probably isn't going to be worth it anymore.

The engine didn't make any weird sounds when this came up. Although I can't recall any odd sounds back when the chain was stretched either.. 
Funny thing about the oil. I checked it today and the oil stick had barely any oil in it. Kinda surprising since the work on the chain was done only under 4 months ago, so normally there definitely shouldn't be any need for oil change just yet. I read about the dirty oil too, but I think I'm not lucky enough that this would be that easy.

It's pretty weird that the valve solenoid, even the number for it, seems so difficult to find. All other parts I've ever needed have been easy to get. I would order that one from ebay, but it takes a bit too long to get here since the car doesn't really start all that well anymore. Had to ignite like 10 times today just to go grocery shopping.

Thanks for the manual too! It looks like the solenoid is somewhat accessible, might have to take it out and see how it looks.


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

There are many of the same valve solenoids a lot closer than China. Just enter the part number on the Ebay search. You could try local auto parts places, UAP, NAPA etc. The OEM Nissan part seems to be about 10 times more expensive, around $200+.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Chain tensioner needs sufficient oil pressure so low oil would affect it. I posted the eBay listing as it included all of the applicable alternative part numbers and was super cheap. If you look on rock auto you will see that the valve is also used on lots of other models so it should be readily available. The bad news is that you probably have an oil leak somewhere that you will want to track down.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

Allright so, turns out the engine was 2 litres short of oil. I added a 1L bottle myself, still didn't show up on the stick. Went to the place that changed the chain and they added another litre.

The mechanic there suspected that the problems might be because of that and should have been fixed, but unfortunately that's not the case. The same issues with same codes keep coming. It's getting quickly worse by the day. Just last night I sat in the car for almost 20 mins in -15 celsius, trying to get the car running after it stalled on the way home from the hockey rink. 
Looks like If I drive the engine warm and then turn it off, it won't start again for at least 15 minutes.
The mechanic said that I should try to change the crankshaft sensor, as it might be faulty even though the code points to the cam sensor. I've changed the crank sensor within a few years so I don't have my hopes up on that. 

Also checked a local parts seller on that valve solenoid, they didn't have it available anymore. 

About that oil leak.. the mechanic checked, no leaks under the car. And as the coolant was also drained almost completely, I was basically given the death sentence of my car: blown head gasket. 
Added to that, the main reason I visited the shop was that they'd give a look at my rear shocks as they were acting like bricks, turns out rightside rear shock freezes and is thus in need of a replacement. To which they said is not really worth it anymore, given the condition of the engine and the age of the car.

Right now I wish I could get that engine running even decently so that I could find a new car without rush.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Let me get this straight:

Running fine
Stalls
Hard to start
Finally starts and drives fine.

Then you find it is 2L low on oil and has no coolant?

Is there any coolant left? There must be some if there were no external leaks. 

Hard to believe that it was running at all. Temp gauge must have been thru the roof


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

MikeHJ said:


> Let me get this straight:
> 
> Running fine
> Stalls
> ...


Haha! Now you put it that way, it does sound weird. But yes, pretty much like that. IF the enginge starts and doesn't cut off in the first running minute, it runs just fine and I can do a 50km trip without issues. 
The mechanic said that the radiator was almost dry before filling it. Temps were just fine when I drove to that place, just wasn't blowing warm air with low revs.

Well that was the case a few days ago. Yesterday the car didn't start at all and the battery died while trying so I spent the day consulting local Nissan service (mechs there were also a bit astonished when I explained my car's situation), and doing what I could with the engine. 

I took the intake valve solenoid out. Went and showed it to a Nissan mechanic, he didn't see any dirt in it and neither did I. I still cleaned it and tested it. Seemed to work just fine so I installed it back in. No change in engine behaviour, didn't start yet.

I looked around the wiring, didn't see anything wrong with them but to be honest I have no idea how to properly "check the wiring" besides looking at it.

I then changed the crankshaft sensor since I had a spare lying around. After that the engine started with bit of a struggle, and then started running again. I did a few restarts and it fired off pretty nicely every time. Took a short ride and again faced the starting issues when I'd done shopping groceries.

Today morning the startup was rough (-15 outside), the engine fires up but then it cycles between almost dying and gaining a few revs. After a couple of seconds it usually dies, and this is pretty much how it "starts" every time. After yanking the key for some time the car started and brought me to work. Nervous to see if I get back home.

The mechanic at Nissan suggested that faulty spark plugs could cause the error code for cam sensor, but admitted that they shouldn't affect the valve solenoid. I have new plugs, just didn't have time to change them yet.

All this just isn't logical at all. Can't wrap my head around this.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

A small status update:

Yesterday was odd. 
-Had to battle for 10-15 mins before the car started. 
-Leaving work, it started on the first key-turn (with the aid of some gas pedaling). 
-Tried to go get groceries, didn't start.
-Tried again after a few hours, eventually started.
-Leaving store, didn't start, battery died and therefore the car has now spent the night at the parking lot.





Here's the latest video example that I took when I tried to get the car running.

Whenever the engine fires up, it's rough and vibrates pretty strongly for some time. After that, normal.

P0011 code for the intake valve solenoid is gone now though, low oil probably caused that. P0340 for the cam sensor still persists.


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

If it has a blown head gasket why are you still driving it? There is no mystery here. It has a *blown head gasket.*


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

X-hale said:


> If it has a blown head gasket why are you still driving it? There is no mystery here. It has a *blown head gasket.*


Good question. To be honest, I don't really know how I should react to the fact that the gasket is leaking. This is my first car, although I've had it for 7 years. Heard of blown gaskets yea, never experienced it before. Has the gasket been leaking for a long time and has just now gotten worse, or did this happen suddenly and the engine is now on the verge of blowing up? Honestly I don't know.

I drove and tried to drive it mainly cause I needed (and still need) a car to run my life and didn't have any substitutes back then. If the car is doomed and worth next to nothing, might aswell squeeze the last meters out of it, right?

So you're saying that the gasket could be leaking so badly that it affects the start-up? Just trying to think why the cam sensor code then. I was going to check the ECM groundings next but now I'm not sure if I should bother anymore. I did and still do hope that the sensor issue is a separate one and if sorted out, the car would still run for a little bit.

[Edit:] Also, apologies for the extra-long replies. I always want to be thorough when I explain things.


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## X-hale (Apr 17, 2017)

You could throw a new cam sensor in it and a bottle of snake oil head gasket stop leak and hope for the best. It might last a day or it might last a month.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Turre said:


> Good question. To be honest, I don't really know how I should react to the fact that the gasket is leaking. This is my first car, although I've had it for 7 years. Heard of blown gaskets yea, never experienced it before.


The head gasket is what prevents the coolant mixing with the oil at the top of the engine block.

Since antifreeze is kind of sticky, mixing the 2 together results in a sticky brownish liquid/paste about the consistency of a milkshake. And it will go everywhere that oil and coolant should be going. It doesn't lubricate or cool, it just gums things up.

You'll see coolant in your oil and oil in your coolant. If you only have a small leak, you may only see a few drops in each. But it is NOT good. Generally, the head gasket goes from overheating, although it is a bit of the chicken and the egg. Did the head gasket leak causing the overheating? or did the car overheat for some reason and the cylinder head warped?

You said you were down 2 liters of oil and all of your coolant. That is a hell of a lot of liquid to just go "missing" without leaving a trace. Either you have one hell of a leak or the car hasn't been maintained for a long time


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

MikeHJ said:


> You said you were down 2 liters of oil and all of your coolant. That is a hell of a lot of liquid to just go "missing" without leaving a trace. Either you have one hell of a leak or the car hasn't been maintained for a long time


Thanks for clarifying. 

Does indeed sound like driving the car further isn't exactly good for it. 
I agree, I was kinda shocked when I saw the amount of oil that was missing. Oil must have been changed when the chain was replaced, and that was that few months ago. Coolant was filled with the previous oil change, was a year ago..

I've never noticed that the temp gauge would have passed the halfway mark though, so it's hard to believe that the engine would have overheated. Then again, if there for some reason wasn't a warning light, it might have slipped past my eye.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Have you seen any leaks under the vehicle? Coolant leak could also be from a bad radiator, hose, maybe even the oil cooler. If you have been seeing a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust it would indicate a bad head gasket. When you say you have no coolant? Do you mean in your overflow container? When you open your radiator cap can you see coolant in there? Does your in car heating work? Not really sure why but I don't think you have been getting good mechanical advice.
If when you replaced the crankshaft sensor you used a non-genuine Nissan one, or if an older plastic style one was used, it could be the problem.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

quadraria10 said:


> Have you seen any leaks under the vehicle? Coolant leak could also be from a bad radiator, hose, maybe even the oil cooler. If you have been seeing a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust it would indicate a bad head gasket. When you say you have no coolant? Do you mean in your overflow container? When you open your radiator cap can you see coolant in there? Does your in car heating work? Not really sure why but I don't think you have been getting good mechanical advice.
> If when you replaced the crankshaft sensor you used a non-genuine Nissan one, or if an older plastic style one was used, it could be the problem.


I visited the shop that changed the chain for me. It is a part of a "non-specific make" car service chain.

The mechanic took a look under the vehicle and said that he didn't see any leaks. In fact I haven't looked myself. He checked through the radiator cap and said that it was dry, so I took his word for it, I kinda just stood by the side there. If I remember correctly the container was completely empty, maybe some fluid visible at the bottom of the pipe. 
The car didn't blow warm air at low revs at that time, but the engine didn't heat up abnormally either.

There have indeed been times when there's a noticeable amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Also seemed to smell funny last time I managed to start the car.

I've only used genuine sensors, both are the new metal style version now. Did the trial & error with an aftermarket version back when the crank sensor failed.

It's still a bit odd to me that the car won't start, even if the gasket has gone bad. Can the gasket leak so much that there isn't enough pressure in the cylinder/s to fire up?


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Okay, you may have just had low coolant, not no coolant. 

I have experienced this myself twice, each of the past 2 winters. Each time, I only noticed because I had no cabin heat when idling, but fine with some revs. It took a liter or more to fill the rad.

I suspect that I have a small leak at the bottom of the coolant overflow tank. Engine heats up, coolant expands and drains into the overflow as it is supposed to, a bit of it leaks while driving. When I stop the engine, the coolant cools down and contracts, and sucks back the coolant from the overflow tank. I never see a leak or a puddle on my driveway, but I'm losing a bit all the time. I don't think it heats up enough on my commute to expand into the overflow tank, just when I'm highway driving for an hour or more. 

If that is what it is, then it's unrelated to your hard starts and it isn't a head gasket.

For a head gasket, you will almost always see coolant drops in your oil or an oil slick in your coolant.

Still sounds like crank or cam shaft sensors, but it could anything in the ignition process.

I'd go back to basics: next hard start episode check for spark at each plug. If that is good, then check for fuel at each injector. You can probably ignore compression because the car runs fine when started.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

MikeHJ said:


> If that is what it is, then it's unrelated to your hard starts and it isn't a head gasket.
> 
> For a head gasket, you will almost always see coolant drops in your oil or an oil slick in your coolant.
> 
> ...


Thanks again for the input! Really nice to have glimpse of hope that the situation wouldn't be as bad as it looks.

I'll take a look at the plugs ASAP, gonna be a 1-2 super cold days here. Could you elaborate what do you mean by "checking fuel at the injector" ? First guides I found were for testing the electric signal on them. Do you mean that?


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Turre said:


> Thanks again for the input! Really nice to have glimpse of hope that the situation wouldn't be as bad as it looks.
> 
> I'll take a look at the plugs ASAP, gonna be a 1-2 super cold days here. Could yoeverythingu elaborate what do you mean by "checking fuel at the injector" ? First guides I found were for testing the electric signal on them. Do you mean that?


For ignition, you need spark, fuel and compression.

If you have a compression problem, then the engine will never run well. Since yours does (when started) you can rule out compression problems. You might still have a head gasket leak, but if it was big enough to cause compression issues, you'd feel like you were running on 3 cylinders (rough idle, no power, maybe backfires, etc.)

If something is wrong somewhere else in your systems and the computer decides not to let the car start (like crank sensor saying the crankshaft is in the wrong place) then the computer just doesn't allow current to get to the spark plugs. There could be a ton of things that trigger a deliberate no start condition, but all deliberate no start conditions result in no spark. 

But if you have spark when cranking, then everything "should" be okay. All that remains is a no fuel situation (clogged injectors, dead fuel pump, etc.)

Basically, spark/no spark is the big diagnosis dividing line. No spark: work back from the plugs to the coils, etc. Spark: work backwards from the injectors thru the fuel system. No spark: could be anything because the no spark condition could be deliberate. Spark: everything should work so you're looking for something that isn't working.

I'd guess that you don't have spark under certain conditions, probably because the computer won't allow it. Your description sounds exactly like everyone who has ever had a bad cam or crankshaft sensor: intermittant hard start episodes, more frequently occurring soon after the car has been running, but occasionally after sitting overnight. Leave it for a while and then it starts like nothing happened. Generally runs fine, but then stalls unexpectedly and is hard to start.

I know you changed the sensors, but maybe you got defective ones or maybe the wiring harness is bad.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Good stuff MikeHJ, very nicely explained.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

MikeHJ said:


> For ignition, you need spark, fuel and compression.
> 
> If you have a compression problem....


Thanks MikeHJ, like quadraria10 said, great stuff!

I finally had the time and the environment to look into the spark plugs. I actually straight up changed the plugs since I had already bought them. Can't really say if there was anything wrong with the old ones.
I also tested each one today, and every one gave a spark, eventually (see the following).

Now the thing I don't understand here is, why does it only spark every now and then when cranking? Like this: I turn the key and the starter begins to crank. It'll crank for good 5-10 seconds and nothing happens at the plugs, then suddenly it sparks once or twice and the engine tries to fire, but doesn't. 
Before it would have taken 15-20 minutes of this, getting slowly better and eventually the engine would have started. But now that it's so cold outside, the battery won't allow me to do that. I'm not sure if the engine would start at all right now. Not that forcing it to start would be wise anyways.
So I should interpret that the computer is blocking the spark? But why not completely then?

I also tried to use a multimeter to check the cam sensor wiring. Well actually I didn't really know what I was doing, but I think I managed to check one circuit on that wiring. I tested for continuity and the device gave out a sound when I connected the center and rightside wire of the cam sensor cable (3-pin). For what I understand, the 3-pin connector has a "minus/ground" in the center, and a "continuous" on one side and a "signal" on the other. My best guess is that this test showed that the "continous" circuit is intact?

I probably could test more with the multimeter, but I'm not sure how. I also have to check the ECM ground, although I don't have my hopes up on that.


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## MikeHJ (Mar 7, 2017)

Turre said:


> Now the thing I don't understand here is, why does it only spark every now and then when cranking? Like this: I turn the key and the starter begins to crank. It'll crank for good 5-10 seconds and nothing happens at the plugs, then suddenly it sparks once or twice and the engine tries to fire, but doesn't.


Well...there's your problem! 

If you're not getting spark when you should, that's probably why you're having hard starts. Not definitely why, but at least some of the guessing is eliminated.

I'd work backwards from the plugs to the coils, etc. Are you getting power to the coils in that first 15 seconds when there's no spark?

I'll see if I can find a troubleshooting guide.


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## Turre (Jan 12, 2015)

MikeHJ said:


> Well...there's your problem!
> 
> Are you getting power to the coils in that first 15 seconds when there's no spark?


Indeed! 

Good question. Testing that sounds like a good opportunity to get electrocuted, any tips on how to test that properly? My guess is to hook up the multimeter to the spark cables (detached from the coils itself), and turn the key?

Otherwise was an off week from the car. Today I looked into it again, trying mostly to eyeball the cam sensor wiring, but there really isn't much to see. The wiring from the sensor dives into the tube with other wires, and goes from there all the way, through the firewall, into the car interior. Can't see anything wrong with it. 

I also tried to find the ECM ground, but didn't. In the manual it looks like it's in either left/right front door, behind the panel. Guess I'm looking at the picture wrong.

One thing I tested was to start the car with the cam sensor unplugged, and to my surprise, the car fired up pretty easily. I managed to get 4 consecutive starts, although they still weren't completely "OK". Can't really say what to make of this. Does it in fact point to a timing issue? I already tried to swap the sensor earlier, so it definitely should be good.


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