# 88 Pickup - None of the gauges work!



## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

I've got a fairly odd issue with my truck...for some reason none of the gauges seem to work! The tachometer generally sticks around 2k RPM, though it does drift slightly above and below that mark sometimes, the gas gauge seems to be stuck at 1/4 tank, the odometer has stopped, the temp gauge always reads cold, and the speedometer also doesn't work at all. I'm thinking it has to be something collective that would affect all of these things but I don't have a manual yet so I can't pinpoint anything specific yet. Did this older model use an electronic speedometer, or is it cable driven? I'm wondering if it's even just a fuse or something but I can't for the life of me find the fuse box in the engine compartment yet (I'm totally new to this truck). Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Dan


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

I should also mention, the ignition on this truck was modified by the previous owner because of some problem with the key switch, so instead of turning the key all the way to start it, you just turn the key to ON, then press a button to fire the starter. Just wanted to mention that in case the cluster was tied to an ignition relay or something like that...


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

There are some good write ups on this very topic on these forums. 

http://www.nissanforums.com/b13-91-94-chassis/7064-instructions-cluster-removal-swap.html

That's just one--lots of helpful pictures and links though it's not your exact year. Did you try searching? I seem to remember something quite recently, actually.


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

Thanks, but that's not exactly the problem I have. I have no reason to believe the whole cluster is broken right now, as it seems that none of it is getting power at all. What I needed to find out is if there's something simple like a fuse that I should look for (haven't spotted one so far), or if it might have something to do with the fact that the vehicle is not started the "standard" way anymore because of a problem with the key ignition switch. Instead of turning the key to START to run the starter, you simply turn the key to ON or START (not sure which yet, have to investigate), then press a button to turn the starter over. I'm wondering if maybe there's an ignition relay or something that's causing my problems due to the modified setup.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the speedo is cable driven, check the speedo pinion(trans), cable and or the speedo head (repalced all 3 in mine)
ignition relay is on the pass side, behind the batt, blue with a double plug
might pull the cluster and check the circuit board if all else fails


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

Thanks for the info. For some reason, I'm now getting about 3/4 of the stuff working on the cluster...gas gauge, tachometer, trouble lights, and of course turn signals all work, but the speedometer and temp gauge do not. I'm thinking the speedometer cable might be broken because the needle on the gauge is broken off, but I'm not sure what to do about the temp gauge...any thoughts?


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

If the needle isn't there, are you sure the spindle isn't actually moving and you just can't see it? Those late 80s hardbody speedometer needles are notorious for warping, bending.


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

wilburk said:


> If the needle isn't there, are you sure the spindle isn't actually moving and you just can't see it? Those late 80s hardbody speedometer needles are notorious for warping, bending.


That I do not know...all I know is that what is left of the needle does not move at all. I suppose it could be that something in the gauge is stripped out. Should I just go to a junkyard and get a new gauge or is there a better recommended practice since these tend to warp?


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if you have the cluster out, you will see the speedo cable sticking up, if you can grab the(center) cable (might have to use needlenose pliers) with your fingers, pull gently, if the cable starts to come out, the cable is broken.
if the cable is good, go to the trans and pull the speedo pinion, check for a "belly" in the gear, if not, its speedo head time. 
My cable broke, then my speedo pinion went, then the head! I bought a new (everything) head and had the original mileage put on it..


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

SPEEDO said:


> if you have the cluster out, you will see the speedo cable sticking up, if you can grab the(center) cable (might have to use needlenose pliers) with your fingers, pull gently, if the cable starts to come out, the cable is broken.
> if the cable is good, go to the trans and pull the speedo pinion, check for a "belly" in the gear, if not, its speedo head time.
> My cable broke, then my speedo pinion went, then the head! I bought a new (everything) head and had the original mileage put on it..


All of that makes perfect sense, except the "belly" in the gear...what does that refer to exactly?

Also, did you buy a brand new speedo or did you buy a used one from a junkyard?

Thanks!


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

Any insight about that "belly" in the gear? Still not sure what you mean there...

Also, how does the temp gauge in this truck work? Is there an electronic sensor somewhere? My temp gauge doesn't work at all, so I was wondering if I could hook up a multimeter to the sensor itself (if it exists) to see if it's outputting anything before I blame the gauge...


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

by belly I mean dished out (worn) in the gear (its plastic) that will loose contact with the driven gear inside the trans. Make sense? There is a temp sending unit that feeds the gauge, should be a bullet style connector (one wire) I want to say its by the thermo hsg.. I dont have my truck with me or I work look, sorry


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

I was just looking in the FSM for that temp connector...I may have found it, I was hoping to trace it from the temp sender to the gauge but that doesn't seem to be possible...I can see where it supposedly starts though, and where it ends up in the dash, so that's a start.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

you dont have a "SE" do you?


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

Pretty sure I have an "E", not an "SE"...it's hard to tell though.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

the reason I asked is the "SE" has a voltage regulator on the back of the cluster that could be your problem (temp/oil gauge)


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

Good point, eventually when I get to that stage of the repairs I'll take a look. Where would that regulator be if I had one?


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## NissannDenver (Dec 27, 2011)

I had/have the problem w/ my gas gauge and temp gauge not working. They were both all the way to the left. I replaced the voltage regulator and now my gas gauge is above full and the temp gauge climbs past H after about 3 minutes of run time. I need to tear apart the dash again and recheck the connections, but I still am having issues. I've heard the voltage regulator solved a lot of peoples problems, just not mine.


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

NissannDenver said:


> I had/have the problem w/ my gas gauge and temp gauge not working. They were both all the way to the left. I replaced the voltage regulator and now my gas gauge is above full and the temp gauge climbs past H after about 3 minutes of run time. I need to tear apart the dash again and recheck the connections, but I still am having issues. I've heard the voltage regulator solved a lot of peoples problems, just not mine.


Maybe you're just running hot and always have a full tank of gas!  Just kidding.


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## NissannDenver (Dec 27, 2011)

Wish that was the case. Have had to fill up based off the tripometer for some time now.


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

It could be worse...my 88 doesn't have a working odometer, and it has no tripometer in the first place!


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

All those same problems on my little daily driver, a 93 Honda Civic. I found it was a whole lot cheaper than repairs just to buy an inexpensive Garmin GPS unit. It tells me how fast I'm going and how far I've traveled on each fuel run. The factory gauges weren't nearly as accurate. I just have to remember to zero it out each time I fill up. The car holds at least 10 gal, and averages 30mpg, so I always gas up right around 200 miles to be on the safe side. I can still take the GPS out and use it on my bike or in my other vehicles when I need to. Best investment I've made for my vehicles.

-R


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## dbsoundman (Feb 3, 2013)

TheRepairMan said:


> All those same problems on my little daily driver, a 93 Honda Civic. I found it was a whole lot cheaper than repairs just to buy an inexpensive Garmin GPS unit. It tells me how fast I'm going and how far I've traveled on each fuel run. The factory gauges weren't nearly as accurate. I just have to remember to zero it out each time I fill up. The car holds at least 10 gal, and averages 30mpg, so I always gas up right around 200 miles to be on the safe side. I can still take the GPS out and use it on my bike or in my other vehicles when I need to. Best investment I've made for my vehicles.
> 
> -R


I've considered that too...any links to what you bought?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

dbsoundman said:


> I've considered that too...any links to what you bought?


Yeah, I got mine off Amazon a couple of years ago. It's been replaced with these... and, the prices have come way down.

Amazon.com: Garmin nüvi 40 4.3-inch Portable GPS Navigator(US Only): GPS & Navigation

This one has lifetime maps. I think that's what I'd buy today if I needed one.

Amazon.com: Garmin nüvi 40LM 4.3-Inch Portable GPS Navigator with Lifetime Maps (US): GPS & Navigation


I haven't bought from these folks, but it's tempting to check into. It's a refurb, though.

http://g.factoryoutletstore.com/details/29604-43948/garmin-nuvi40lm.html

-R


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