# What type Oil to use



## Fenderman98 (Apr 25, 2019)

New member here.
I recently bought a 1998 Nissan Frontier truck 2.4L 4 cylinder one owner with 118,000 miles. When it's time for a oil change what weight oil should I use.Also should I use a high mileage oil.The manual says use 5w30 but I live in SC where winters are not that bad so I was thinking maybe 10w30. Thanks in advance.


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

Fenderman98 said:


> New member here.
> I recently bought a 1998 Nissan Frontier truck one owner with 118,000 miles. When it's time for a oil change what weight oil should I use.Also should I use a high mileage oil.The manual says use 5w30 but I live in SC where winters are not that bad so I was thinking maybe 10w30. Thanks in advance.


Fender,

I would try to find out what the previous owner used especially since you are the 2nd owner. I had a 1993 Hardbody 4cyl that I bought new and I used 10w40 Regular Castrol. I drove that truck for 20 year's and 176K mile's. Nissan also recommended 5w30 for that truck,, but like you, I live in the South where it is Warmer than Colder down here. On cold start's the engine didn't rev high, so that wasn't a concern.

In 2013 I bought a New SVV6 Frontier and on Cold Start's the Engine Rev's up to 2K and gradually goes down to about 650 rpm aproximately, so my concern with this engine is to use the recommended 5w30,, cause it is thinner and should get to the Top End Sooner than a 10w40. I've been useing Castrol 5w30 which is a Synthetic Blend. I didn't want to go Full Synthetic cause the Full Synthetic oil's were said to drain off of the top end part's without leaveing much residue. Then I watched a Video about Castrol Magnatec 5w30 Full Synthetic,, which is supposed to leave an oily film on the top end part's. At WalMart it is only about 3 $'s more for a 5qt Jug ie 21 $'s. Here's a link to the Magnatec Video:






I'll be switching to the Magnatec Synthetic next oil change, but my '13 only has 14K mile's. If your Truck hasn't been useing Synthetic,, then I don't think that I would switch to a full Synthetic. However Magnatec also come's in a High Mileage Oil and that might be worth takeing into consideration. I don't think that the High Mileage is Full Synthetic; Maybe a synthetic Blend. Which is probly ok. However I would try and find out what the previous owner used if possible, especially since it was a One Owner. At about 100K mile's I switched to Castrol's High Mileage Oil 10w40 when I had the '93 Hardbody.

I personally think that a 5w30 is too thin down here in the South, and wish that Castrol would make the Full Synthetic Magnatec in a 5w40.

IMO, The Oil filter is just as important and maybe more important that the Oil. I only use a Geniune Nissan Oil Filter. Beelineparts.com has them for 8 $'s and Free Shipping. I recommend useing a Geniune Nissan Oil Filter.

If your Truck doesn't rev high on Cold Start's,, then I think that a 10w30 or 10w40 would be ok. If the previous owner was useing 5w30 in a Synthetic Blend,, then I think that You'll be ok to go 5w30 Full Synthetic Magnatec.

I hope I helped you a little bit, but knowing what I know now,, I definitely wouldn't take any chance's with the Oil Filter. Lot's of different opinion's on Oil and Oil Filter's though. You may even get a Response that Fram is the Best Filter to use, but I hope that I never have to use another Fram Oil Filter on any engine that I have. I've been told to never say never,, so.

Regards,


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## Fenderman98 (Apr 25, 2019)

BRubble said:


> Fenderman98 said:
> 
> 
> > New member here.
> ...


Thanks BRubble the former owner is deceased I asked his son if he knew but he didnt. Think I will use Castrol 10W 30. I have had good results with Castrol over the years.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Why go with a thicker cold start weight? I would understand if you were talking about using 5w20, and wanted to use 5w30 for a warmer climate, but going from 5w30 to 10w30 will not change anything in terms of the oils ability to deal with high heat. Not that it will make much of a difference other than maybe a bit worse gas mileage. Also, I don't believe the bit about full synthetics leaving the top end of the engine unlubricated. I do not think I have ever read a post where someone said their engine failed due to using Mobil 1 or Castrol full synth.
The oil filters are interesting because it seems Nissan has a couple of different quality levels, and from what I can tell were reported to have changed suppliers over the years. Some are made in China, others Japan, and some apparently come from the US. My seat of the pants way of judging oil filters is weight. I noticed there is a fair bit of difference with Purolator, Bosch Premium, Mobil 1, Beck/Arnley, and Denso, all being a good bit heavier than Fram or other seemingly cheaper oil filters. All have worked fine for me.


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> Also, I don't believe the bit about full synthetics leaving the top end of the engine unlubricated. I do not think I have ever read a post where someone said their engine failed due to using Mobil 1 or Castrol full synth.
> The oil filters are interesting because it seems Nissan has a couple of different quality levels, and from what I can tell were reported to have changed suppliers over the years. Some are made in China, others Japan, and some apparently come from the US. My seat of the pants way of judging oil filters is weight. I noticed there is a fair bit of difference with Purolator, Bosch Premium, Mobil 1, Beck/Arnley, and Denso, all being a good bit heavier than Fram or other seemingly cheaper oil filters. All have worked fine for me.


Quadraria,

Oil and Oil Filter's are argumentative subject's and may alway's be.

I talked with Castrol about the Castrol Full Synthetic Magnatec,, and they told me that the other Castrol Full Synthetic's do not have the Additive Package that is supposed to give the Oil a Clinging Affect. Other Castrol synthetic's do have a 5w40 Viscosity that I would rather use, but according to Castrol they do not have the same additive package as the Full Synthetic Magnatec.

If I have an Oil Related problem and pull into Nissan's Service Dept. with an Aftermarket Oil Filter that might be the First thing that they'll say. I've read where this has happened, but I don't know the final outcome. I've investigated Nissan Oil Filter's and from what I've read in the Past, the Nissan Filter's down to 20 Micron's. That's good enough for me. Yes there are other Oil Filter's that will filter down to 10 micron's,, but will they flow the same as a Nissan Oil Filter.

I would rather pull into a Nissan Service Dept. with an Oil Related problem and have a Nissan Oil Filter in place, it's just one less thing for me to think about. At 8 $'s from BeelineParts.com with Free Shipping, it seem's like a fair price.

I guess you could try some of the oil that you are useing applied to an abrasive and scrub the Screen on your Cell Phone to see if it will leave scratch's. I rather liked that demonstration.

Regards,


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

I have used Mobil 1 for the past 5 years. The engine is smoother today than when I started. It too claims that it clings to metal to enhance lubrication. In my opinion ''smart molecules'' are a marketing term. I do note that there are some pretty expensive cars with engines that are far costlier to replace than my qr25de that use Mobil 1, and of course, the same thing can be said I am sure about Castrol. I am sure if we really wanted to we could also buy Nissan branded oil
Lastly, I will leave all of the oil filter debates to Bob is the oil guy discussions. I have faith in any of the brands and their oil filters I have used. I am biased to filters that have a heavier metal outer shell that appear to be able to take an impact better. I am using the Beck/Arnley at the moment, and have another spare in the garage. Very nice oil filter.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=479033&cc=1434432&jsn=404

Anyhow it's rather liberating to be well past any Nissan warranty, but I well understand sticking to Nissan filters while the newer Frontier may still be under a guaranty


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Any API or ILSAC certified 5W30 oil will work fine, regardless if it's conventional, semi- or full-synthetic, "magnetic" or "made from natural gas" or whatever. You can go 7500 miles on conventional 5W30 oil without any problems. When I had my 97 Hardbody KA24E, which I bought brand new, I used whatever 5W30 oil I could get for free or cheap, mostly using whatever the Nissan dealer was buying in bulk where I worked at. I used genuine Nissan oil filters or Purolator One filters when a Nissan filter wasn't available. At over 200,000 miles, the engine didn't smoke nor make unusual noises and there wasn't a drop of sludge on the top of the cylinder head when I removed the valve cover. These days, I have a 2003 Frontier with the supercharged VG33E and two, R51 Pathfinders with the VQ40DE. The Pathfinders have 195,000 and 230,000 miles on them, respectively, and the Frontier has 210,000 miles on it. I've been using Walmart's SuperTech 5W30 full-synthetic oil (about $17 for a 5-quart jug) and Nissan or Pure One oil filters on all of them. My Blackstone Labs oil reports on the Pathfinders say I can go safely to 12,000 miles before changing the oil. That's good enough for me, although I do change the oil and filter very 7500 miles.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

I'll throw in my 2-cents worth of discussion. I've used fully synthetic Mobil-1 motor oil for years on various vehicles that I've owned; such as Chevys, Fords, Nissan 240SX, Nissan Altimas. I've always followed the manufacturor's recommendations. However on some of the vehicles I would go with a slightly heavier oil if the engines had a lot of miles on them and started to burn more oil. On the Nissan engines, being very well engineered, I've put on very easily over 300,000 miles with no problems.

On the oil change interval for synthetic oils, I generally go with 12,000 - 14,000 miles. With oil filters, I've always used Purolator and some times Mobil-1 and replaced them every 3,000 miles. I stay away from Fram because I've read some bad things about them.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

One interesting note: A lot of people use Blackstone Labs for their engine oil analysis. If you ever go to their site, somewhere they do mention that all of their employees use conventional oil. Just food for thought!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Now there is some anecdotal evidence for you lol, but there is probably some truth that I and others have been swayed by some marketing claims. I will say that prior to using Mobil 1, I would get some grey sludge on my oil cap after a winter's driving. That no longer happens. Cold starts in very cold temps also seem smoother. Everything I have read about the subject suggests that the oil is more stable and that it can extend oil changes. I tend to do roughly 16,000 to 18,000 kms a year, so I decided I should be able to get away with two annual changes 6 months apart in spring and fall, instead of 3 changes a year. Its been working fine. I kind of have to remind myself that my 06 X trail is pushing 14 years of age.
I know its hijacking this thread but out of curiosity how much longer can I expect to get from my original alternator ( 2006 model with 218,000 kms) No electrical issues at the moment but my replacement battery is now 5 1/2 years old with some slight bulging of its case.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

quadraria10 said:


> I know its hijacking this thread but out of curiosity how much longer can I expect to get from my original alternator ( 2006 model with 218,000 kms) No electrical issues at the moment but my replacement battery is now 5 1/2 years old with some slight bulging of its case.


I've seen OEM alternators last 10 -15 years and then I've seen OEM alternators last only 6 months. As long as the alternator is putting out the proper voltage (generally 13.2 to 15.0 volts) and not making any bearing noise, then you're OK.

The main reason that batteries swell is from over-charging. If an alternator has a faulty voltage regulator, it will overcharge the battery and build up hydrogen gas faster than the battery can dissipate. Note, if the battery case is swelled a lot, then the battery should be replaced ASAP. Swollen batteries can explode if not properly dealt with, so you don't want to take any actions that may hasten the arrival of this unpleasant event. Above all else, be safe.


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## BRubble (Jun 22, 2014)

quadraria10 said:


> I know its hijacking this thread but out of curiosity how much longer can I expect to get from my original alternator ( 2006 model with 218,000 kms) No electrical issues at the moment but my replacement battery is now 5 1/2 years old with some slight bulging of its case.


Quadraria,

Prior to the '13 Frontier that I have now, I drove a 1993 2.4L Hardbody, and it had the original Alternator when I sold it 20 year's later with about 179K Mile's on it. The OE Water Pump started leaking at about 175K Mile's and I replaced it with another OE.

If you used a charger on your battery that wasn't auto shutoff when fully charged, that might have overcharged your battery. I use an Auto Float charger on the Tractor and Lawn Mower. So far I haven't needed to use a charger on the Frontier.

Do as Rogoman said and Replace that swollen battery.

Regards,


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

My 2003 Frontier, 2006 Pathfinder and 2008 Pathfinder all have their original alternators at 210,000 miles, 195,000 miles and 235,000 miles, respectively. I'll agree with the others on the battery; at 5-1/2 years, it's paid for itself. Alternators on the 2005+ Nissan trucks have voltage sensors on the ground cable to the battery. It's used by the ECM to help control the alternator as a gas saving measure. It works the alternator less, thus, it should, theoretically, allow the alternator to last longer. Of course, as any mechanic knows, things break when they break...and usually at the most inopportune time!


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the answers. I will take out the multimeter to give it a check, but I am reassured that the alternator can last a long time. I was mistaken about my battery. Was confusing it with my nephew's car whose battery I had to remove and disconnect a number of times to work on electrical and SRS issues. It's his that is a bit swollen, and not mine thankfully. The original battery lasted 8 years, this one is an aftermarket Motomaster Eliminator with a 4-year replacement warranty that is now past.
It starts on the first crank, and all the electrics work. Frankly what has me wondering is because my aftermarket dvd bluetooth gps unit clock is running slightly fast. Of course it could be that unit, but everything on it works well and has for the past 8 months its been installed. I guess its a good thing when your only electrical issue on an older car is an aftermarket unit gaining a minute or two an hour, and requiring you to reset the clock once a day.


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