# Removing Alternator



## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

Hey, again, guys! sorry if im posting lots of threads but i dont wanna put a whole bunch of Q's that have nothing to do with each other into one thread since not all of them will be answered at once...anyways my other question is if there are any guidelines as to how to remove the alternator (1993 Altima GXE)...

ive looked around and i have a general idea of how its supposed to be done, but i also cant seem to find the belt tensioner...and the bolts on that alternator are screwed in really tight so its a bit hard to work on it since theres not much room...any guidelines or anything like that from you all would be really helpful! thanks!


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

xgrave said:


> Hey, again, guys! sorry if im posting lots of threads but i dont wanna put a whole bunch of Q's that have nothing to do with each other into one thread since not all of them will be answered at once...anyways my other question is if there are any guidelines as to how to remove the alternator (1993 Altima GXE)...
> 
> ive looked around and i have a general idea of how its supposed to be done, but i also cant seem to find the belt tensioner...and the bolts on that alternator are screwed in really tight so its a bit hard to work on it since theres not much room...any guidelines or anything like that from you all would be really helpful! thanks!


Well I cant find the manual for the 93 but I would think it is the same as the 94 since it is the first year of that body style. First disconect the battery and the wires on the alternator. Look at the top bolt of the altenator and see if it passes through a block that has another bolt passing through the block from the side. If so then that is your tensioner, the altenator itself. If this is your set up then simply loosen that bolt in front and then turn the bolt entering the block from the side counter clockwise about 3/4 it's length Then at the bottom of the altenator on the front and back you have the bolts that the altenator pivots on you will need to loosen these as well. At this point you can pivot the altenator to loosen the belt then remove the three bolts you loosened. from there it's just a matter of a little twisting and pulling to get it out. The bolts down on the bottom are a little tricky but it's just a matter of fitting the right length socket on the ratchet for the front one and then a 12 point off set box wrench on the rear one is a good choice. If memory serves me right the top bolts are both 12mm or a 10mm for the adjuster bolt and 12 for the securing bolt. The bolts on the bottom are 14mm. Can't remember but I think on the front bottom bolt a shallow well socket is to short and a deep well is too long for some ratchets so if your ratchet is one of those thick ones a medium well would be a better choice. Or you can reach up from underneath with a wrench but it's a knuckle buster that way.

If the altenator is not the tensioning point for the belt then it is likely going to be a idler pully down low but the A/C compressor is directly below the altenator so I don't think thats your set up.


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

thanks spat, that really helps. i thought about that bolt going through it and was guessing that was the tensioner...i will try that, the only reason why i havent taken it off is because the bottom bolt is really tight and cant get it loose...thanks again, this really helps!


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

xgrave said:


> thanks spat, that really helps. i thought about that bolt going through it and was guessing that was the tensioner...i will try that, the only reason why i havent taken it off is because the bottom bolt is really tight and cant get it loose...thanks again, this really helps!


Two tips on breaking bolts. If using combination open/box end wrenches get the next size up wrench and insert the open end of the working wrench into it this will double your leverage. Also if you have a piece of metal pipe large enough to slip over the wrench or ratchet handle that works well to, just not to large a pip. Word of caution though, if you are using cheap tools they may break by using this added leverage if the bolt is seized.


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

thanks spat!


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

also, i noticed that my tension belt had cracks in it? any tips on how to change it or what to consider b4 buying a new one?


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

If any belt has cracks, fraying in it or missing small segments of the grooves then definatly replace it. Also you don't want to get a belt too tight or you can ruin the altenator bearings or worse the water pump. You can buy a belt deflection tool to measure the amount of tension but never used one myself so don't know how much they cost. Feeling tension on a belt is like learning to ride a bike it just comes with experience. Better to be loose and have to tighten it up later than to have it too tight and damaging something.


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

do you have any good tips as of how to remove it? cuz it looks like i have so little space to work with...i have the chilton's manual but all they tell you is where the belt tensioner is....im guessing all i have to follow is the diagram for the pulleys and the belts and how they are positioned...i see in the diagram that it has three belts? is that so? cuz ive noticed that the belt going from the alternator...im not sure about the other two, but ill check them...also, in terms of tension, should i just try to set tension to as close as it is right now? i could probably try to feel the tension but like you said, always watching for tightness...


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

Thats the challenge of working on your own car, and the need for at least some mechanical skills. You just got to look at it and figure how to get it out. The belt is very flexible so twist and turn as needed of course if you have another one in front of the one you are removing then that has to come off. That's about all I can tell you. If you can't go from there you should have a shop do it. Basically working on cars from a mechanical aspect is like working on a big jigsaw puzzle except this one is a three deminsional one.


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

i see what youre saying...ill probably need whole day to figure out how they are positioned...ill do it, step by step, thanks spat!


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## xgrave (Aug 11, 2007)

well...i changed the battery and it seems like my old battery was so busted that it couldnt hold a charge, so it appears that everything is running fine right now...kragen guy said alternator was good, starter as well...so it was all because of a busted battery...saved me a bunch of money....Thanks for your help spat! you were very helpful!


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## spat (Oct 15, 2005)

xgrave said:


> well...i changed the battery and it seems like my old battery was so busted that it couldnt hold a charge, so it appears that everything is running fine right now...kragen guy said alternator was good, starter as well...so it was all because of a busted battery...saved me a bunch of money....Thanks for your help spat! you were very helpful!


Glad it all worked out OK! Thats one sure way to know if the altenatore is bad, Bench test. I have seen many test bad because of a bad battery or hidden electrical problem in the car somewhere. But the bench test never lies! I also don't have the most faith in those new miniature battery testers though they do seem to be rather reliable but not always.


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