# installing suspension Q's



## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

this isnt a thread about "how do i install my suspension" but more what should i look out for? any tricks of the trade? type thing.

i own a 91 classic with stock suspension, so i expect ruted bolts. there fore i will be armed with ALOT of PB blaster and a torch! uppon reinstallation i will be glass beading all bolts to rid them of rust (and if i can find the correct thread, i will use a die to clean the threads) and useing a combo of anti seize on the none threaded parts and blue thread lock on the threaded parts. 

anything else i should do in prep?


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

use the anti sieze on all the threaded parts, and leave the threadlocker in the tube.
don't bother bead blasting all of the fasteners unless you want to zinc plate them afterwards. cleaning off all the old rust will just ask for more new rust to come faster.

If you want to blast off the rust, then I highly suggest taking all of the bare metal parts and hosing them down with quality spray paint after you put the suspension back together. use a self-priming, chip resistant paint like Chassis/frame paint to keep it on the parts longer.. this will help prevent the rust from coming back so quickly.


on the PB blaster, spray the stuff down at least a day or so before you do the job. it'll give it time to soak in and make things much easier on your to take apart. multiple applications never hurt.

when you're swapping struts, be sure to check the upper mounts for cracking and the bearings for play/wear.. also install new dustboots/bumpstops. you definitely need them up north in the rust belt.


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## sno (Oct 4, 2002)

raise the whole front or the whole back of the car at once. don't try to do one side at a time. it makes it easier when reinstalling the strut/spring assembly.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

sno said:


> raise the whole front or the whole back of the car at once. don't try to do one side at a time. it makes it easier when reinstalling the strut/spring assembly.


no need to worry there. ill be doing the install in a full DIY shop on a chassis lift and useing air tools.

and i wasnt planing on coating anti seize on the threads, but just on the shank and head of the bolt to keep it from rusting.


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

its a pretty easy process pete, my friend and I did my setup in like 2 hours. i might be able to help if you let me know when you are going to do it. i know that honda guy also knows what he is doing, so let us know and we will try to be there.


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## Slayer2003 (Jun 4, 2003)

put the torch down and get yourself a pipe, about 2-3 ft long. If a nut is that rusted, it will need to be replaced anyway, and usually comes with the new stuff. Torch, floorjacks = not good time.


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

Trust me pete.. you'll need the anti sieze on the threads. that's the entire point in using the stuff.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

Matt93SE said:


> Trust me pete.. you'll need the anti sieze on the threads. that's the entire point in using the stuff.


ohhh, i thought you were talking saying not to put it on. i was going to any way :thumbup: 

i have a fetish for anti seize lol. pb blaster, anti seize, and RTV get me off.


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## psuLemon (Apr 23, 2003)

pete? said:


> i have a fetish for anti seize lol. pb blaster, anti seize, and RTV get me off.


dont forget wd-40


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## Matt93SE (Sep 17, 2003)

wd-40 is crap.. only really useful for helping remove adhesives and bug guts. it sucks for a penetrating oil or any real lubricant.


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## pete? (Jul 6, 2004)

psuLemon said:


> dont forget wd-40


PB blaster my friend.


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