# 2009 Nissan Versa Immobilizer



## claforce (Feb 24, 2018)

Hello,
Having an issue and hoping someone has some advice. Recently the ignition cylinder locked in 2009 Nissan Versa. It is the 1.6 base model with the manual transmission. After looking at the price of a new ignition mechanism I thought it may be cheaper just to remove it and put in one of those start stop buttons. The issue is when removing the ignition mechanism from the steering column I broke the immobilizer unit(Model MW1014) I believe as a bunch of wires came out and after I popped the switch off the back of the ignition cylinder and turned it with a screw driver all I hear is a couple of clicks. I'm wondering if I get a new immobilizer of the same model will it fix this issue, or is there anyway I can bypass this to install the start/stop button. 
Thanks,

Chris.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

claforce said:


> Hello,
> Having an issue and hoping someone has some advice. Recently the ignition cylinder locked in 2009 Nissan Versa. It is the 1.6 base model with the manual transmission. After looking at the price of a new ignition mechanism I thought it may be cheaper just to remove it and put in one of those start stop buttons. The issue is when removing the ignition mechanism from the steering column I broke the immobilizer unit(Model MW1014) I believe as a bunch of wires came out and after I popped the switch off the back of the ignition cylinder and turned it with a screw driver all I hear is a couple of clicks. I'm wondering if I get a new immobilizer of the same model will it fix this issue, or is there anyway I can bypass this to install the start/stop button.
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris.


Did you get yours fixed yet? Sad that no one has replied here. I have same issue and same question. 07 Nissan Versa. I have already removed the Ignition lock cylinder assembly but the dealer won't tell me if I buy a new one is it pre-programmed so the car starts or not. 3 dealers and each play dumb and not telling me. They want you to take the car there but there is no way unless I spend additional $100s of dollars to tow it to the dealer. Frustrating!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

claforce said:


> Hello,
> Having an issue and hoping someone has some advice. Recently the ignition cylinder locked in 2009 Nissan Versa. It is the 1.6 base model with the manual transmission. After looking at the price of a new ignition mechanism I thought it may be cheaper just to remove it and put in one of those start stop buttons. The issue is when removing the ignition mechanism from the steering column I broke the immobilizer unit(Model MW1014) I believe as a bunch of wires came out and after I popped the switch off the back of the ignition cylinder and turned it with a screw driver all I hear is a couple of clicks. I'm wondering if I get a new immobilizer of the same model will it fix this issue, or is there anyway I can bypass this to install the start/stop button.
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris.


When replacing the steering lock solenoid and the intelligent key unit, they need to be registered with the BCM. Registration is performed by the Consult-III tool.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

rogoman said:


> When replacing the steering lock solenoid and the intelligent key unit, they need to be registered with the BCM. Registration is performed by the Consult-III tool.


Thank you very much. The old part is already out. I take it that after installation of a new part, the car has to be towed to dealer or a mobile key-smith come down to my place to program it. Cost is back breaking! Just bought this car 5 weeks ago for my daughter because she finally landed a job.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Hadia said:


> Thank you very much. The old part is already out. I take it that after installation of a new part, the car has to be towed to dealer or a mobile key-smith come down to my place to program it. Cost is back breaking! Just bought this car 5 weeks ago for my daughter because she finally landed a job.


I sympathize with your concern. It's becoming more and more difficult to service the newer cars as the years go by. There's more and more electronics being engineered into cars so that people have to rely on dealerships for service.

Your best bet is to get several opinions/prices first. If you can find a key-smith that can do the registration, it should be cheaper then a dealership; beware of the stealerships who will try to gouge you.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

Thank you rogoman, kind of you to reply fast. One more question. Can I take the new ignition lock and key to a key-smith to register it or does it have to be assembled on the car for registration to work. The difference is thre additional cost of towing that I am hoping to avoid. Thanks in advance


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Hadia said:


> Thank you rogoman, kind of you to reply fast. One more question. Can I take the new ignition lock and key to a key-smith to register it or does it have to be assembled on the car for registration to work. The difference is thre additional cost of towing that I am hoping to avoid. Thanks in advance


It has to be installed on the car for registration to work. The ignition lock solenoid needs supply voltage and has to communicate with the BCM during the registration process. Install the new ignition lock youself otherwise there will be additional cost just for installation let alone registration.

Here's something I found from a YouTube video about key registration. Not sure if it applies to your car but it's worth a shot:


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

This is the kind if information I was looking for from Nissan dealer. I called 3 of them and they just won't give me any information. I guess they want me not to attempt fixing it myself They want me to take it to them so they charge me an arm and a leg. As far as the video goes, it is about programming a new key with existing lock cylinder. Not sure when I buy the whole assembly this would work or not because both cylinder and keys are new. Once again I appreciate your help and info you have provided. Thank you.🙏!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Hadia said:


> Not sure when I buy the whole assembly this would work or not because both cylinder and keys are new. Once again I appreciate your help and info you have provided. Thank you.🙏!


The cylinder plays no part in the NATS/NVIS system, the programming process simply acquaints the ECM, the IMMU (the loop around the cylinder), and your keys. Nothing about the mechanical cylinder matters to it.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

rogoman said:


> It has to be installed on the car for registration to work. The ignition lock solenoid needs supply voltage and has to communicate with the BCM during the registration process. Install the new ignition lock youself otherwise there will be additional cost just for installation let alone registration.
> 
> Here's something I found from a YouTube video about key registration. Not sure if it applies to your car but it's worth a shot:



The part arrived today. Just looking and comparing with my original part there is a difference.
My old part has a square opening on the side where a cable connects. Not sure what the cable is for but it might be a cable for shift lock. The new part does not have such opening (see photos). 
Wonder if anyone knows if that cable is crucial and has to be connected or not!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The cable is for a shift lock. I'd presume you can use the new cylinder by removing or taping-back the cable and putting the lock mechanism in a permanently-unlocked state.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The cable is for a shift lock. I'd presume you can use the new cylinder by removing or taping-back the cable and putting the lock mechanism in a permanently-unlocked state.



I am better in understanding older cars, that is why I am still driving my 89 Toyota 4Runner. They are easy to figure out and fix. The Nissan is my daughter’s.
I wish you could say with more certainty if not connecting the cable the Cylinder lock unit it would still starts and create no problem. And if I try shoving the able aside, is that all that makes it permanently unlocked or another step of some sort is still needed for permanent unlocked state. Even if this is done, Am I going to be subjected to warning messages or Engine light for doing that. Unfortunately, in case I have to return the part I wish to have my $430 back, so I can't install and try this. Thanks.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The cable isn't to release the shifter, it's to prevent the key being removed unless the shifter is in park. Since the new cylinder doesn't have a slot for the cable, I presume it will work fine without the interlock. The shifter shouldn't be affected either way, and there's certainly nothing about it that would prevent the car from starting.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The cable isn't to release the shifter, it's to prevent the key being removed unless the shifter is in park. Since the new cylinder doesn't have a slot for the cable, I presume it will work fine without the interlock. The shifter shouldn't be affected either way, and there's certainly nothing about it that would prevent the car from starting.


Thank you (and others) for all the inputs. This old dog has learned a few new tricks. I appreciate that.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> The cable isn't to release the shifter, it's to prevent the key being removed unless the shifter is in park. Since the new cylinder doesn't have a slot for the cable, I presume it will work fine without the interlock. The shifter shouldn't be affected either way, and there's certainly nothing about it that would prevent the car from starting.


Update:
Since the part I got appeared to be for manual model, I return it and bought a used one from eBay.
It came with a key. The steering wheel lock latch has been removed to keep it at permanent unlock state. The key and steering wheel now turn, car cranks but, it won’t start because the KEY warning light remains on at all times. Is there something that I need to disable to get it work? I can’t really afford dealer fix. Thank you or anyone else who can help!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That's the security light, you have to have the new IMMU and keys programmed to the BCM. You shouldn't need a dealer, a mobile smith should be able to do it for you.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> That's the security light, you have to have the new IMMU and keys programmed to the BCM. You shouldn't need a dealer, a mobile smith should be able to do it for you.


Thank you VStar650CL. The new key that came with the cylinder is a simple key and does not have the remote (Lock/Unlock) function on it. I thought that would not need programming. Having said that, I still have the original keys to use for the doors which have remote function. Is the IMMU the black connector mounted on the outside of the cylinder unit or is it in the car somewhere? If the one on the cylinder, would using the original IMMU with the new cylinder resolve the issue? Thank you?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. Yes, the IMMU is the plastic ring around the key cylinder. You can't use a dumb steel key on an IMMU-equipped car, you'll need to have an inductive (smart) key cut match the cylinder and then have it programmed.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

PS - Don't keep cranking it with the dumb key, there's a very real risk of the ECM "committing suicide" if you crank too much with the security lamp lit.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. Yes, the IMMU is the plastic ring around the key cylinder. You can't use a dumb steel key on an IMMU-equipped car, you'll need to have an inductive (smart) key cut match the cylinder and then have it programmed.




Thank you. With dealers they won't touch anything unless you buy everything from them, can't afford that. My experience (5 years ago) with key-smith is that they cut manual key for car but not the ones with remote function. They cut was a manual key and it worked. It may be different now and also in current case the cylider is new also. My question still is even if I re-key and/or re-program do I need to do it with the original IMMU attached to the new cylinder or wit the one that came with the new unit or doesn't matter. (this is all too much for a car that i bought only six weeks ago!)

Thanks again.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Hadia said:


> They cut was a manual key and it worked. It may be different now and also in current case the cylider is new also. My question still is even if I re-key and/or re-program do I need to do it with the original IMMU attached to the new cylinder or wit the one that came with the new unit or doesn't matter. (this is all too much for a car that i bought only six weeks ago!)


There are two kinds of inductive smart key, with buttons and without. We call the ones with buttons on them "lollipops", but both kinds can be coded to start your car. The non-lollipop smart keys have a black plastic head, plain steel keys generally have no head, just metal. If your ignition cylinder came with an IMMU, then it should also have come with the smart type key. The IMMU will get mated to the ECM _and_ the keys whenever keys get programmed, so you can use any good IMMU and any good keys. If both of your IMMU's are good, then it shouldn't matter which one is on the car when you program it.


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## Hadia (Jul 24, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> There are two kinds of inductive smart key, with buttons and without. We call the ones with buttons on them "lollipops", but both kinds can be coded to start your car. The non-lollipop smart keys have a black plastic head, plain steel keys generally have no head, just metal. If your ignition cylinder came with an IMMU, then it should also have come with the smart type key. The IMMU will get mated to the ECM _and_ the keys whenever keys get programmed, so you can use any good IMMU and any good keys. If both of your IMMU's are good, then it shouldn't matter which one is on the car when you program it.


 
The original key is a black head key with a separate door lock/un-lock operator.
The new key that came with the ignition lock cylinder I bought is a black head key and no remote operator piece.
In any case, I called a mobile lock Smith, he came and said the new key that came with the unit I bought is already locked. I have no clue how these new systems work so, I took his word, besides I desperately need the car. He cut and programmed/coded? a new key ($250) and the car starts now. I wanted a second key but he wanted another $180, so I didn’t get one. I will look to see if I can find a lower price for a spare somewhere else.
Thank you (and anybody else who provided comments and help) for staying engaged with the issue. I very much appreciate that. Peace & stay safe!


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Hadia said:


> Thank you (and anybody else who provided comments and help) for staying engaged with the issue. I very much appreciate that. Peace & stay safe!


You're most welcome. Glad you got it straightened away, although I'm sad that it cost so much. The cylinder vendor probably sent you a counterfeit key with no smartwork in it, those keys don't "lock out" like an I-key would. They only behave that way if they're counterfeit or dead. But all's well that ends well, happy motoring!


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