# Installin' Stereos/Speakers



## jdub (Sep 3, 2002)

I'm lookin' to do a moderate sound upgrade for my '97 200SX (CD player, four speakers). Before I shell out money to have someone else do the install, I thought I'd ask around to see if anyone has had any luck/problems doing the stereo/speakers themselves. Is there a thread or url on doing a stereo/speaker install?

Thanks!


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## sentra_hilo (Apr 23, 2003)

you could post this in the audio section of the forum. that might give u a little more info


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## pearsont74 (Oct 1, 2002)

Its pretty easy...just dont rush
As far as the door and rear speaker, you have to get 6.5s or 6 1/2 slims
I have Infinity Kappa all the way around.
(just a hint....look at the different areas on this forum before posting to make sure you post in the correct place)
PM me if you have any problems


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## 200sx Se-T (Jun 24, 2003)

It is really really easy, don't pay someone for that.


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## rbloedow (Nov 2, 2002)

Dude, don't pay for someone to install it for you, it's HELLA EASY to install buy yourself. Just look up some of the threads in the Audio forum and you'll have all of the info you need to know


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

rbloedow said:


> *Dude, don't pay for someone to install it for you, it's HELLA EASY to install buy yourself. *


Agreed! My sentra has a kenwood that was installed ?professionaly?. While I am impressed that their wiring harnis they pluged in has clearly written on the wires them selves what each wire does, the physical mounting was was done by cloth tape and over sized screws wedging the kenwood to the mounting bracket. 

While this "works" I wouldn't pay someone money personaly for a cloth tape install.


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## jdub (Sep 3, 2002)

Fair enough....I'll do it myself. I've looked all over the audio threads for any kind of installation instructions and am finding zippo. Any advice?


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

What advice do you need? 

Electrical help?
Volt meter helpful. In a early sentra I snipped the old wiring adapter, stripped the ends in the wires and used the old volt meter while the key was in ACC to find all the +12 lines. I then turned the car off and found which one was Battery (as in, 12 volts always on).

But just attach the negative to the car body and test each wire one at a time till you get voltage. Also they make a nice probe thats nothing more then a pen like device with a aligator clip for and a pointy metal tip that makes life easy. I just attach the clip to the body, and test each lead till I get light.

For speakers, I used a AA battery and the similary colored wires (white, white with stripe for example) and and attached the battery to each wire, and took note of which wires go to which speaker). Alternativly if you have a walkman, you can cut a phono cable and use those leeds to test each speaker. 

For each solution, I just did a temporary twist of the wires together. Later on, well eventually probally this weekend, I plan to pull out this make shift solution as the harnis detaches completely, and use solder on each joint and heat shrink tubing. 



Mounting help?

Depends on the radio and the bracket you have. Double stick tape can be your friend if you are lazy. 

Speaker Help?

I had a pair of Boston Acustics that were much smaller then the 6 3/4 inch holes in my 1998 sentra. Much much smaller. I don't know the exact size, but for the door mounts I just made a simple outline of the large speaker hole, and an outline of the smaller speaker, and used a simple dremmel cutoff wheel to make circle brackets that mounted in the old holes. 

My brackets are not pretty, but they are inbehind the door where no one can see them. I must admit, they sound a heck of alot better mounted in circular wood brackets then they ever did in the old car they were installed in the first place


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## jdub (Sep 3, 2002)

Sorry..advice for getting the door panels and back panel off, and the old stereo out.


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

In my case, on the 1998 sentra... 

Radio removal. There was a single screw located between the hazzard and defrost lights, with a retangular cover. Removal of this cover shows the screw. Once that screw is removed, it removes the cover to the cover giving you access to the 4 radio screws.

The radio was mounted in a bracket, and the bracket attached to the car. removal of the 4 screws allows the radio to come out.

I've noted the mounting was similar on a 1988 sentra, as well as a number of import vehicels. Makes life easy really having the radio mounted in a bracket, and removal from the car means removing 4 screws. 

---
Doors...

In my case, there were a series of mounting plugs that had to be removed with elbow grease, as well as one plastic phillups screw. On the lower side of the door were a series of 3 or 4 true phillups screws. removal of these is easy.

After that, I removed the window crank with a flathead screw driver, just durning the knob till I could see the open end of the bracket and just pushed it free allowing the door handle to be removed. Two flatheads might be required, one small one to wedge into the window crack so you can see the open side of the bracket, and another to push the bracket free. Once you can see the round end of the bracket, you may wish to extract it with one of your flatheads, otherwise it will spring free... somewhere... never to be found again. 

There was also a screw located in the door handel it self. Just a #2 phillups if i'm not mistaken

Once all those things were removed, I had to lift the door panel out of the window jam.

Now I'm not too sure about the proper way to install speakers in the rear truck area. I had no problem removing this pannel, it was just mounted in with plastic thingies that required pliers to compress and push up. I believe in my case there were only 4, and once pushed free I was able to remove this panel. However, I was thinking that it was easy tnough to install speakers under this panel, making it's removal unlessicary, but one would run the risk of having pointy screw bits poking holes in your panel. 

---

I don't have general nissan experence to beable to offer specific help for specific years / models. 

So the brief

1. Radio panel, find the screw / screws. 
2. Radio... 4 screws removes bracket that is attached to radio
3. Doors, pop mounting plugs, remove screws, crack (flathead), and handle
4. Truck... remove panel with plyers, pushing the clips out of the hole to make for easy removal.


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## rkeith (Jan 12, 2003)

Dude I installed my deck.... just go to Wallyworld and get one of those Scosche (sp?) wire adapter kits... plugs right up with minimal splicing....


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## B14GEE (Jul 10, 2003)

MAKE SURE YOU GET GOOD QUALITY SPEAKERS THOUGH...YOU DONT WANT TO HAVE YOUR STEREO SOUNDLING LIKE ASS,..I GOT ME 4 KENWOOD XCELONS FOR 45 AND 2 SONY XPLODS FOR MY TRUNK FOR 65..ALL BRAND NEW....I


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## nisdrivensan (Dec 10, 2002)

dude..... it was easy for the front doors .... you just have to watch the lip between the window and the inside of the car.... there is a little lip that you have to latch on when your puttin the covers back on .... 
the back deck is easy 
you remove the back seatbelt ....... then you remove the back cover ..... on the sides covering the window..... then you get in your trunk and remove the little plastic thingies....... you know what im talkin bout.... the fasteners....... and lift up the back plastic deck ...... ...... www.onlinecarstereo.com has rockin prices..... there is a set of clairion 6 and a halfs on there that areaout of the world if you dont want to power them...... i install shit on the side and i know a ton of companies that are decent....... that one i follow.. ..... jl ...... and pioneer... also panasonic....... everything else is straight forward...... 



good luck.. by the way...... the head deck is easy as shit also 5 bolts to remove but just becareful of your antenni ... thats the ground for your system....... if you have to run another ground run the black wire from your harness to your bottm left screw with a eyelet that clamps on the wire...... so that can ground... NO WHERE ELSE...!!!!!!!!!!! 


good luck dude


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## nisdrivensan (Dec 10, 2002)

if you need more help tell me or im me ..... ill step ya through it


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

Actually... I've been really happy with my Boston Acustics RX47's. Though this model isn't ideal for a Nissan install, it being 4 inches. 

I have kenwoods in the rear presently.. KFC S164 to be exact. Together I find the combo most pleasent.

But I'm not a refined audiophile. The Kenwoods came with the car, the Boston's were my choice in my old car. If I had to choose between the two, i'd go with the bostons personaly.


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## nisdrivensan (Dec 10, 2002)

bostons are awesome..... i personaly like jl ..... im runnin a 1300 watt amp to all my speakers... i have a total of 13 in the car and im runnin witha jl w 7 with 1700 watts from xtant that kicks major ass.... i ran all new wires throughout the car.... i did not dig that small ass wiring they use .....


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## droppinbottom (Jun 30, 2003)

i have a set of RF Qseries components in my doors and i know if i can get them to fit any 6 1/2 will fit


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## jdub (Sep 3, 2002)

I'm understanding about the speakers stuff, but to get to the deck?


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

Based on what i've read, removal is the same on your 200SX SE as my Sentra

Just above the heater control and inbetween the hazzard and defrost buttons is a retangular piece of plastic. This comes out. You should beable to remove with your finger tips. You could use a flathead if you so desire, but I didn't find it nessicary. 

Once removed, you'll see a screw. Remove this screw.

You'll then beable to remove the whole cover plate.
It's not screwed in anywhere else, but has 4 clips at each corner of this panel, diagnal to the fan control / air control, and right and left of the drink holder. I just pulled mine from where it was screwed in where that retangular button cover was removed.

Once removed youll see screws holding in the radio bracket. you'll need to remove these 4 screws that hold in the radio bracket. 

That's it.


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## jdub (Sep 3, 2002)

My alarm light is there. Any worries of disconnecting the alarm?


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## zakezuke (Mar 22, 2003)

I don't know honestly. I would imagine that the light isn't part of the alarm circut. It would be a pretty piss poor design if you could disable the alarm by removing the light. But it doesn't hurt to ask as a it wouldn't strike me as odd that disconnecting the wires would trigger the alarm, to help deter those annoying light thieves. If I made the alarm I would have it trigger if a wire is disconnected while active, based under the assumption that a would be thief might disconnect any wire with an active current in the hopes of disabling the alarm. If this is an aftermarket alarm, and I personaly was installing it, I would indeed use that retangular piece of plastic, drill a hole, and place in a LED. I would also use some sorta slip on connection as is done with the hazzard and defrost switches in the pannel to make it easy to get at the console device holder.

So personaly, I think if you remove this retangular piece, you'll just see wires that run somewhere. I also believe that you should beable to disconnect these wires with moderate ease, if not have enough slack to get at that screw. 

But most important, you shouldn't take my word for it. My experence with nissan in general is limited to the past few months, and this body class since jul 3rd.


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## allen (Dec 25, 2004)

*alpines*

I installed Alpine 6 1/2 inch SPS-170A's in my sentra. they sound awsome and all 4 only cost $180. they even come with adaptor plates in case you need them.


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## Tdizzle412 (Dec 6, 2004)

Dude...This thread is like half a year old lol :dumbass: j/k, but good choice in speakers im gettin the same ones in february


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## Bach42T (Nov 7, 2002)

I want some good speakers. All mine in my car are factory and blown.


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## wes (Apr 30, 2002)

Bach42T said:


> I want some good speakers. All mine in my car are factory and blown.


So what are you asking and why are you asking it in a thread that is years old? There is a speaker feedback thread in the audio section, take a look there.


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## Bach42T (Nov 7, 2002)

oh okay, I haven't been on here in a long time.... I'll check it out thanks!


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## FunkyFresh (Sep 26, 2007)

well I thought I should revive this thread instead of making a new one.....

so I got all four brand new eclipse speakers, and want to know alittle more about installing them in my 96 sentra......problem is I dont even know how to open the side doors to insert the speakers??
any guides, maunals, tutorials or anythin outhere to help me? 
thnx in advance


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

There used to a 200SX that had great instructions and pics but the guy who ran it shut it down.

If you Google, there is someone who shows you how to install rear but they are selling instructions how to install front speakers and head unit. You can find head unit instructions 

It is upir lucky day that I was able to save the text of how to take apart the door panels before Google cache cleared what was left of that 200SX site. He has power windows, so I hope that's what you have. Also make sure those Eclipse speakers aren't deeper than like 2 1/4 in front or you'll need some spacers. Its not very deep.

The B14 Sentra/200SX doors panels are easily removed. The only tool you need is one Phillips screwdriver.

1) Remove screw in door latch
2) Remove two screws on side of door panel
3) Remove three screws on lower portion of door panel
4) Remove plastic tabs located in door jam area on panel
5) Remove screw in pocket/handle. Once removed this will allow you to remove the inserted armrest with attached power window and lock assembly.
6) Flip assembly over and remove the electrical connector. This is a lock tab type connector. Using your finger or screwdriver press the tab as you pull the connector away from assembly.
7) Pull the entire door panel up and away from door.
8) Remove the speaker from the door. (3 screws). Disconnect speaker wire from rear of speaker.
9) Remove plastic tabs from left side of door. (These are where the two side screws attach through the door panel.)


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## FunkyFresh (Sep 26, 2007)

hey thanks so much!!

did you happen to save the pictures as well by any chance?


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

FunkyFresh said:


> hey thanks so much!!
> 
> did you happen to save the pictures as well by any chance?


You're welcome. Good luck--please let us know how it goes and if you have any tips. I may be doing it myself soon.

Unfortunately, the pictures didn't save. The site was down, but was still in Google cache but with no pics. I wish I had them. You could always buy that $5 buck or something front door installation guide that someone was selling online. I think though it can be done w/o pics.


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

--deleted--


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

I just finished installing a Nissan double DIN CD/tape player from the 2nd generation Altima. Fit perfectly although it needed a cheap $5 shipped regular male to dual prong Nissan antenna adapter.

It is light years better than the busted LCD Nissan tape deck that was in there. And the wiring harness was identical too. Totally easy and cheapish eBay upgrade. I hope that this won't be a theft target since it's stock Nissan and there are much more tempting aftermarket decks out there than this one.

If you do buy a Nissan deck for the B14 Sentra, make sure it's non-Bose and has all the wiring harness prongs. One Maxima CD/tape non-Bose system doesnt work for the Sentra.


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## xcountryflyer (Dec 25, 2007)

*UPDATE:A friend and I installed a pair of Infinity 6.5" 6022si slim coaxials into the front doors. I have updated the instructions I used to make them better. The service manual PDFs are helpful too.

The B14 Sentra/200SX doors panels are somewhat easily removed with the right tools. I recommend having around: a couple philips screwdrivers, a pair of needle-nosed pliers, and a plastic putty knife. Also possibly a power drill.

Passenger Door Panel
1) Remove screw in door latch
2) Remove two screws on side of door panel near the latch
3) Remove three screws on lower portion of door panel on the bottom
4) Remove plastic tabs located in door's front jam area on panel
5) Remove screw in pocket/handle. Once removed this will allow you to remove the inserted armrest with attached power window and lock assembly. Use putty knife to gently work one area to get it to snap out.The front seemed easier for us then the rear of the the pocket.
6) Flip assembly over and remove the electrical connectors for windows & power door lock. These two are a lock tab type connector. Using your finger or screwdriver press the tab as you pull the connector away from assembly.
6.5) The last step before the panel comes if is the trim ring around the interior door handle/lock needs to snap off. This use a philips screwdriver or putty knife to snap the ring out. Be careful not to snap the piece. It seemed that it was easier to start the separation at the front of the ring away from where the handle anchors.
7) The door panel should be free to come off. It is a lifting up and off motion since the top sort of hangs into the window channel. 
8) Remove the speaker from the door. (3 screws). Disconnect speaker wire from rear of speaker. Make sure the little black foam strip stays at the bottom of the speaker stuck to the door. The shape of the metal down there requires the foam to keep the speaker flush.
9) Nissan uses three holes to mount the speaker. My Infinity speakers came with four holes. The metal mounting ring brackets supplied with the Infinitys did not fit the three holes. We took the old speaker marked where the holes should be and then drilled into the new metal ring bracket.
10) We screwed the metal ring mounting bracket onto the door.
9) Nissan uses proprietary connectors, so I bought a pair of Scosche adapters on eBay that snapped into the Nissan connector and gave me two +/- standard industry connectors. Much easier than splicing. We also used some electrical tape to tie up the extra wire length to avoid any rattling possibility.
10) We snapped the new connector into the existing Nissan speaker wiring and then screwed the speaker onto the new mounting bracket in four places with the supplied Infinity screws.
11) Then turn on the stereo to check the new speakers with the door panel on and then the panel hooked back on from the top. This is to check if it is working and if there are any potential buzzes. If they work, then put the passenger door panel on the way you took it off.

Driver's Door Panel:
Follow the same instructions for the passenger door panel. Except there is one lock type electrical connector for power windows/lock instead of the two on the passenger side. I also noticed two plastic tabs on the rear of the door where the two screws near the lock went into after the door pane was taken off. I did not take these off although the instructions I used said to. See: [9) Remove plastic tabs from left side of door. (These are where the two side screws attach through the door panel.)]

I highly recommend getting new speakers for the front doors at least. It was night and day between the old and new speakers. I actually heard tight bass and highs. The stock speakers have no tweeters and uses a paper full-range cone design. This is as cheap as you can get. It even looked like there was some slight water damage on my old speakers. The passenger side was buzzing/distorted. Do be careful of the depth of the speakers. There is not a lot of space before hitting hit the window. There is a pretty good amount of space from the front of the speaker to the grill in the plastic door panel if you need to use spacer rings to lift the speaker out a bit. I did not want to deal with that so that is why I chose the slimline Infinitys. I did not do the rear deck of the car. I sit close enough where the rear are just for fills. However, I did do a fade front and back to see the difference. The rear deck has the same crappy speakers as the front with no highs, but I don't really notice with the front speakers being far superior now. I have read that the tricky part of the rear installation is the rear deck panel. It either has to be removed or you have to get it up enough to get to the speaker screws.

I got the pair of Infinity 6022si for $59.20 shipped on eBay, while Crutchfield sold them $99.99 and the adapter was $12.50 shipped. I highly recommend them.

Good luck installing and happy ears.


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