# 1990 HB not starting!



## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

So new here and with good reason, could use some assistance with a problem.
1990 HB 2 wheel drive 2400 engine that will not start and I think I have been through everything but still no go! I thought I had it narrowed to the ECU but changed it and still no start condition, I had previously checked injectors and spark all was ok but tried a different distributor as well as coil and igniter with no luck. Have fuel good fuel pressure and the engine gets fuel, compression is good, have spark so what have I missed?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

gtuplin said:


> So new here and with good reason, could use some assistance with a problem.
> 1990 HB 2 wheel drive 2400 engine that will not start and I think I have been through everything but still no go! I thought I had it narrowed to the ECU but changed it and still no start condition, I had previously checked injectors and spark all was ok but tried a different distributor as well as coil and igniter with no luck. Have fuel good fuel pressure and the engine gets fuel, compression is good, have spark so what have I missed?


Throw in a fresh set of spark plugs, (not Bosch Platinums!) and a fresh, fully charged battery. If it has good compression, and is getting fuel and spark at the right time it should fire.

-Roger


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## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

Well this is very frustrating!! New plugs are in , went through everything one more time and still a no start condition and it will not flash even on starting fluid. I double checked compression and it has a low of 120 and a high of 125, I have spark and did try another coil as well and tried another distributor and ECU and results are the same so what else could cause this condition? There is not so much as a cough or a sputter, it is not even trying to fire. I can only think that perhaps one of the used parts was not good but I have compression, fuel and spark it should fire!


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

The injectors have to be firing, the gas has to be free of water and high enough pressure to spray, and the compression and ignition have to be timed to work together. It sounds like you are still missing one of those.

-R


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

did u read the codes ??


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## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

Yes, no codes stored!


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## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

Well feeling a bit used up on this problem, been all through it again and it should but will not run. Tried another coil and another ecu still same condition. Compression very good, 120-125psi TDC balancer on timing mark rotor at #1, fuel pressure 44 pounds, pinched fuel regulator line in case of by pass failure, different distributor did not change condition, injectors are firing when rotating dist. fuel in cylinders, has spark but will not fire even with started fluid. Do these use a low oil pressure shut off switch? If so if it malfunctions would it cause this no start condition? Sure open to suggestions at this point! I can not see the Throttle body controls causing a no start condition if faulty only poor run condition but could be wrong.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

did the chain jump time?


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## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

I would have to say no but possible, full compression, #1 TDC rotor at #1 and balancer timing mark right on its mark. Suppose it is possible but would it have full compression if it jumped? Would have to pull valve cover to confirm, not working on these before is there a timing mark on the cam gear that would correspond with the crank at TDC 0 deg?


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

I have no idea how it could have happened: but check the oil pump shaft...when everything else is lined up at TDC....there are two marks on the shaft that need to be aligned also...If they are not, it will not run.....


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Even if it jumped timing...it would think it would still have full compression (both valves closed)....just not when it was supposed to.....the only real way to check is to pull the valve cover, and make sure both valves are closed when the pistion is at TDC on the compression stroke, and the balancer is correct.....There is a timing mark on the gear, and the chain usually has a "silver" link in it....


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## gtuplin (May 9, 2012)

Well I suppose that could happen if it was only a few teeth off but was thinking that it would bend a valve or two if it jumped however perhaps it is non interference! I will remove valve cover to confirm valve timing as well as the timing mark in alignment with the coloured chain link.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

gtuplin said:


> Compression very good, 120-125psi TDC balancer on timing mark rotor at #1, fuel pressure 44 pounds, pinched fuel regulator line in case of by pass failure, different distributor did not change condition, injectors are firing when rotating dist. fuel in cylinders, has spark but will not fire even with started fluid.


The compression is not very good; For a tight engine, it should be around 190 psi, the minimum should be no less then 142. However it should still fire up.

To properly set the ignition timing, here's the procedure:
Remove the distributor and the oil pump. Now you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the compression stroke in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put your thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor by hand clockwise or counter-clockwise until it's pointing to ZERO.

The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45 o'clock" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.

Determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.

Once you've determined that the ignition timing is correct, use a "Node light" to determine if every fuel injector is firing. If no-good, then check the camshaft position sensor harness wiring; since you've already replaced the distributor, the sensor itself should be OK.

If you've replaced the timing chain assembly, then the timing could possibly be off.


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Sure would like to know what the problem was, and if it was fixed....

Knowing the solution would help others who had the same problem......


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## Nissanramper (Jan 26, 2012)

Sounds like the chain had jumped. seeing as how the plugs, distributor, injectors, and compression are ok. Unless there is a crack in the intake manifold. Or theres a very slim chance that there is something lodged in the intake not allowing sufficient air to flow in. And also no offense is intended here but is it an AT trans? i have made the stupid mistake of leaving it in gear while changing the radio and thinking i had shorted something out when i turn the key and nothing happens. Hope this could get you thinking


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Welcome gtuplin.

Alhtough I'm probably not gonna' be able to offer much help, I do have a coupla' questions. 

What was the scenario from which you've started? Did the engine just not start one morning when it had run fine the night before? Did the truck die somewhere; you pull it home and it hasn't run since? Were you doing some kind of work / maintenance and it ran before you started the work, but not after?

And are you quite sure all the parts you've been swapping are fully functional. I'm not trying to be an arsehole, I'm just askin'.


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