# 1999 Nissan Maxima Will Crank Won't Start



## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

I have a 1999 nissan maxima that ran perfectly fine, parked it over the weekend and now it cranks but won't start, I've narrowed it down to a fueling issue, if starter fluid is sprayed into the intake it fires right up. I've replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator with no luck. I'm all out of ideas, at one point it was throwing a code for a fuel temp sensor but i replaced it when the fuel pump assembly was replaced and that didn't fix it.


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## TheEel (Jul 15, 2021)

A bad battery? There will be enough power for the car to crank but the battery voltage drops so low that the electronics can't control things like fuel injection.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

The battery was replaced probably a month before this problem occurred and I've recharged it fully after draining it from trying to start the car and still no luck


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Stacks23 said:


> I have a 1999 nissan maxima that ran perfectly fine, parked it over the weekend and now it cranks but won't start, I've narrowed it down to a fueling issue, if starter fluid is sprayed into the intake it fires right up. I've replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator with no luck. I'm all out of ideas, at one point it was throwing a code for a fuel temp sensor but i replaced it when the fuel pump assembly was replaced and that didn't fix it.


One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: Owner's Manuals. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.

A common problem with engines unable to start is a bad camshaft position sensor or a bad crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors. The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: Owner's Manuals. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.
> 
> A common problem with engines unable to start is a bad camshaft position sensor or a bad crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors. The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.


I had checked the codes when I first started trying to diagnose the problem and it was showing codes P0180 (Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit), P0110 (Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit) & P0325 (Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1)). I replaced the fuel temp sensor with one from a running car from a junkyard just because I couldn't find a new one anywhere and then I replaced the air intake temp sensor as well. I cleared the codes and tried it again and still nothing, none of the codes have re-appeared as of right now but I'm not exactly sure how long it normally takes for those to resurface when they've been cleared. I will get the sensors you mentioned replaced and let you know if that works, I really appreciate the help.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction. If you have a copy of the FSM for your vehicle, the code readout procedure is described there along with a listing of codes. You can download a copy of the FSM from this web site: Owner's Manuals. The section EC.PDF is the one you need to read.
> 
> A common problem with engines unable to start is a bad camshaft position sensor or a bad crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors. The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.


I finally got around to changing out the sensors you mentioned and still no luck


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Stacks23 said:


> I've replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator with no luck.


An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel rail and connect it to a long length of spare hose with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds. You can also tee-in a fuel pressure gauge between the disconnected fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading. 

Each fuel injector has two wires; one is constant 12V and the other one is the signal wire from the ECU. The fuel injectors may not be firing due to no pulsing on the signal wire. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.

I looked in the FSM for your car and it shows two crankshaft position sensors (CKPS) besides the camshaft position sensor (CMPS). One CKPS is located on the oil pan in the front facing the crankshaft front pulley; the other CKPS is on the oil pan in the back facing the signal plate that's mounted on the flywheel.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel feed hose from the fuel rail and connect it to a long length of spare hose with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds. You can also tee-in a fuel pressure gauge between the disconnected fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but *DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE*. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading.
> 
> Each fuel injector has two wires; one is constant 12V and the other one is the signal wire from the ECU. The fuel injectors may not be firing due to no pulsing on the signal wire. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.
> 
> I looked in the FSM for your car and it shows two crankshaft position sensors (CKPS) besides the camshaft position sensor (CMPS). One CKPS is located on the oil pan in the front facing the crankshaft front pulley; the other CKPS is on the oil pan in the back facing the signal plate that's mounted on the flywheel.


I replaced all three sensors with no luck, also I haven't tested the exact psi but I did disconnect the fuel line going into the fuel rail to ensure fuel was getting to the fuel rail and it was. If you think that the exact pressure may be the issue then I can definitely try to tee in a fuel pressure gauge and see what I am getting. Also, I will look into getting the light probe you have mentioned and testing the signal wires for each injector, thanks for giving further instructions on this I definitely appreciate it.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Stacks23 said:


> I replaced all three sensors with no luck, also I haven't tested the exact psi but I did disconnect the fuel line going into the fuel rail to ensure fuel was getting to the fuel rail and it was. If you think that the exact pressure may be the issue then I can definitely try to tee in a fuel pressure gauge and see what I am getting. Also, I will look into getting the light probe you have mentioned and testing the signal wires for each injector, thanks for giving further instructions on this I definitely appreciate it.


The reason for insuring the proper fuel pressure is just to eliminate another possibility of very low pressure which would prevent engine running. Make sure you're getting 12V on the supply wire for each injector. If you don't see 12V, check the fuse to make sure it's OK.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> The reason for insuring the proper fuel pressure is just to eliminate another possibility of very low pressure which would prevent engine running. Make sure you're getting 12V on the supply wire for each injector. If you don't see 12V, check the fuse to make sure it's OK.


I tested the injectors with a NOID light and they are not flashing, the supply wire is showing 12V and also getting 12V from the signal wire which seems strange


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

Stacks23 said:


> I tested the injectors with a NOID light and they are not flashing, the supply wire is showing 12V and also getting 12V from the signal wire which seems strange


Correction, there is not 12V on the signal wire, the supply wire shows 12V when the ignition is not turned on but once the ignition is turned on the 12V goes away


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Stacks23 said:


> Correction, there is not 12V on the signal wire, the supply wire shows 12V when the ignition is not turned on but once the ignition is turned on the 12V goes away


According to the wiring diagram for your car, the supply wires group together and run thru a fuse then into the ignition switch. Now it's possible the ignition switch is bad. Check for 12V on both sides of the 20A fuse for the injectors supply line when the ignition switch is in run or start.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The injector drivers inside the ECM are "open collector", meaning the "hot side" of the injectors needs constant power with the key on. If you back-probe an injector with the key-on-engine-off, you'll also see 12V on the "cold side" because you're measuring through the injector coil and the ECM isn't grounding it. You may see 12V on the ECM wire with the injector disconnected, but that will only be leakage. If you check it with a test lamp and not a meter, the lamp shouldn't light. If it does, it means the injector driver in the ECM is blown through the gate.


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> According to the wiring diagram for your car, the supply wires group together and run thru a fuse then into the ignition switch. Now it's possible the ignition switch is bad. Check for 12V on both sides of the 20A fuse for the injectors supply line when the ignition switch is in run or start.





Stacks23 said:


> I have a 1999 nissan maxima that ran perfectly fine, parked it over the weekend and now it cranks but won't start, I've narrowed it down to a fueling issue, if starter fluid is sprayed into the intake it fires right up. I've replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator with no luck. I'm all out of ideas, at one point it was throwing a code for a fuel temp sensor but i replaced it when the fuel pump assembly was replaced and that didn't fix it.





rogoman said:


> According to the wiring diagram for your car, the supply wires group together and run thru a fuse then into the ignition switch. Now it's possible the ignition switch is bad. Check for 12V on both sides of the 20A fuse for the injectors supply line when the ignition switch is in run or start.





rogoman said:


> According to the wiring diagram for your car, the supply wires group together and run thru a fuse then into the ignition switch. Now it's possible the ignition switch is bad. Check for 12V on both sides of the 20A fuse for the injectors supply line when the ignition switch is in run or start.


Update: tested fuel pressure, when key is turned on the pressure goes up to about 32 and slowly drops to around 28 and holds, when cranking it jumps to 43 and then drops to around 35 when you stop cranking. I am trying to upload a video to show this but overall does this sound about right or are those numbers off?


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## Stacks23 (Oct 16, 2021)

rogoman said:


> According to the wiring diagram for your car, the supply wires group together and run thru a fuse then into the ignition switch. Now it's possible the ignition switch is bad. Check for 12V on both sides of the 20A fuse for the injectors supply line when the ignition switch is in run or start.


Okay I am starting to think this is an issue with the anti-theft, when I am trying to crank the car the security light stays on solid.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yep, that's a key problem for sure. Don't keep cranking it, you can trash the ECM that way. Get a mobile locksmith to cut you a new key and see if it will program, if not you probably have a bad IMMU.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Well, let me amend that. Make sure your ECM is communicating first. If it isn't, then the sec light will be on because of that. If the ECM scans normally, then you have a key problem for sure.


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## krishay.baxter (11 mo ago)

very low pressure which would prevent engine running.





Speed Test


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