# 2000 frontier v6 rough idle,any suggestions



## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

I'm glad i found this site,would appreciate all the help i could get.I've changed spark plugs,pcv,had throttle body cleaned out,new air filter. I ran injector cleaner thru a couple of tanks full. Still idle's rough, gets even worse when i put it in gear. Runs fine after i'm on the road,and when i give it gas. Can a MAF be bad and not give a code to the computer,or does it sound like EGR problems. I put a lot of miles on this one 127,000. Would appreciate all the info i could get 
rnlock6185


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Well, I wouldn't suggest throwing parts on it without confirming they're bad. A rough idle can be caused by a number of differant things. Bad MAF's usually set a code, although the hotwire can become dusty and/or contaminated and cause incorrect readings and not throw a code. This is common when oil coated air filters are used like K&N. IMO, the best air filter for these engines is the one from Nissan. When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

Have you checked the distributor cap, rotor and ignition wires? One thing I learned over the years is that if you replace any of these items or the spark plugs, stick with genuine Nissan or NGK parts. Aftermarket parts tend to not work or last long on Asian ignition systems for whatever reason. Make sure the ignition timing is per specs.

You engine probably doesn't have an EGR valve. Models built 10/6/99 and later have no EGR system. It's referanced in bulletin #NTB00-012.

Early '00 models had some issues with idle fluctuation and bulletin #NTB00-007 addressed the problem. It pertained only to vehicles with manual transmissions and built prior to 5/17/99. The "fix" was an ECM upgrade and some adjustments.

Bulletin #NTB01-033a addressed rough idle due to dirty injectors. Tank additives don't always clean the injectors as well as a professional injection cleaning system, which runs the engine directly on the cleaner itself while the vehicle's fuel system is disabled.

Also, check for vacuum leaks. If you need copies of any of the bulletins, sens me an e-mail at [email protected] and I'll get them out to you. Make sure you give me the year/model/engine/TSB# if requesting any.

If you suspect a dirty MAF hotwire, it can be cleaned with mass air sensor cleaner or electrical cleaner. I usually don't recommend it unless it's a last attempt before replacing the MAF sensor as the hotwire is very fragile. Break the hotwire and the sensor is toast!

If none of this helps, it would be best to get it to someone who has access to a scan tool that can view the datastream of the ECM. Nissan's Consult II is the best at doing this, but not the only option.


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## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

Thanks so much for the info. I did replace the fuel filter as well as the other things i noted guess i forgot to add that. When i replaced the spark plugs i put autolite plugs in maybe i should i change them out again with ngk. I did go by autozone and had them to hook up the scan tool, only thing that came up was p0325 knock sensor. I didn't think that it was really the problem,judging by what the truck was doing. Will try to change out spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotors, or should i start with the professional cleaning of injectors first.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If the problem occured before the Autolites, then the spark plugs probably aren't the problem. Personally, I feel that NGK's are the best plug to put in it; they came with the truck originally from the factory and they are one of the best spark plugs on the market. Check the distributor cap and rotor and see if there's signs of arcing or the terminals are in poor condition. If they are original, I would definately suggest replacing them with genuine Nissan parts. Take a spray bottle and spray water on the ignition wires while running and note if there's any arcing; if so, replace the ignition wires. Personally, I prefer NGK ignition wires over the Nissan wires. Both are good, but the NGK's seem to be put together better although they can be hard to find in stock at most auto parts stores. You usually have to special order them or order them online. See how this works and then if you feel the injector cleaning is in order, go ahead. 

By the way, timing belt is due on this engine at 105000 miles, if it hasn't been done, already.


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## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

Thanks for the reply.Will try suggestions.I was looking at my truck today and it does have an egr valve, and the back pressure transducer. Could this have anything to do with what is going on. If it is stuck open would that cause the rough idle? I do appreciate all the help.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

If it's stuck open, it will cause the engine to run lean....so, yes, it could cause a rough idle.


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## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

Thanks for the info. You have been a big help.


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## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

hey smj999smj,
would the ngk iradium plug be even better than the platnum tip that came from factory?


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## rnlock6185 (Aug 4, 2007)

In case anyone was wondering, Autolite spark plugs are crap!!! ecspecially for nissan's. Replaced them with NGK platnums. I learned my lesson. They made a world of difference no more rough idle or bucking. I've ordered new dist. cap, and plug wire set,as well as new rotor just to complete the tune up. Thank's for the help smj999smj.


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## cjarts09 (Sep 17, 2015)

I have a 2000 Nissan frontier se 2door crew cab 3.3l. It has a rough idle and after it warms up it will go dead but will start right up. I have replaced the distributor, NGK spark plugs and wires, Knock, knock sensor and fuel filter. Still has rough idle and still shuts off after warming up but also driving it does have like a skip in it but when I come to a stop it will go dead. What to do? I am trying to get it running for my son. Please help.


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## 98Frontier4WD (Jan 12, 2015)

Well maybe I’m biased since I spent the last two months tracing a problem like that on my 98 4cyl Frontier, but if I were you I’d check the MAFS if your truck has one. 
If so first clean the MAFS with MAFS cleaner which you can get from any generic auto store (it’s like carburetor cleaner, but I think it’s been formulated to not leave any residue). The small wires of MAFS can get dirty from any debris that makes it into the air intake, and the hot wire can sort of “caramelize” (for lack of a better word) the debris on the hot wires of the MAFS. 

You can read about my adventure here. Read post #43, I just posted a summary


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## Mtrippin1 (Apr 30, 2016)

Hey cjarts....

I had a similar problem, I replaced everything, but what finally fixed it was a new distributor! The sealed bearings on the shaft wear out and cause the engine to die and or run rough as hell after the engine warms up. The best deal I found was on Amazon (half the price compared to auto parts stores). It gave me a code of multiple cylinder misfire before replacing the whole distributor. I hope this reply didn't come several hundred dollars too late!


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## Haystack012 (May 4, 2016)

I have the same truck and had a rough idle. changed the EGR valve ( very easy by the way, takes about 30 min) and it seemed to clear up the idle


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