# Disc Brake Pad Install; Pads Are Dragging



## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I got the new pads on. Had to compress the caliper pistons while opening up the bleeder nipple in order to get the caliper over the new pads...very, very tight fit!! The sliders were stuck fast, had to heat 'em up to get them out. The pads were even difficult to install in the little metal brackets they ride on. Lottsa' headaches!

Initially, the pads were so hot they smoked. They're still hot, but not as hot after a drive. I think they were getting 'broken in'. (I've put maybe 25 miles on the truck).

Anyways, the front wheels are dragging. If you jack the truck up, you can 'just' turn the wheel by hand (I'm thinking my 11 year old daughter probably couldn't turn it). It certainly doesn't spin freely. Both wheels are the same. I've also experienced some intermittent pulling to one side while driving (but not all the time).

So what do you think? Bad calipers? Collapsed rubber line to the caliper? Maybe the sliders? 

Any and all advice would be appreciated.


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## azaware (Aug 25, 2011)

The piston needs to move in and out pretty easy. If you put new or rebuild calipers on it would be fine.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

I take it you didnt grease the slide pins.. (use only high temp grease) might also check the pins for wear. if you take the cap off of the brake reservoir when you compressn the piston, it will make life a little easier, just watch for over-flow. make sure the pads & shims are seated correctly...


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## Scott_T (May 15, 2011)

definite on the high temp grease for the slide pins. I learned that one by using normal grease and within a week had to go back and re do them. while you have them out sand them smooth too. I put mine in a drill and spun them with sandpaper to get the junk off.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Well, I sanded down the pins with a coarse sandpaper and covered them with 'Never-Seize'. But I didn't use a high pressure / temperature grease.

One thing I did notice was that if the vehicle sits all day, the wheels rotate (when jacked up) a tad better than if the truck was just driven. If I rotate the jacked up wheel shortly after I've been driving, it turns but does not 'spin'. If I let the truck sit for say 6-7 hours, the wheel will actually 'spin' for maybe half a turn.

My theory is that the calipers are partially seized. They are returning after you release the brakes...but they're not returning the entire distance.

Keep in mind that the old pads were a mess when I took them off. One was half gone. So I'm thinking maybe it's been a loooong time since the calipers actually fully released.


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

Ooops...almost forgot.

Speedo, how exactly does a fella' make sure the pads and shims are seated correctly. As far as I can tell, there's really only one way things can go back togther.

I did have a helluva' time getting the new pads in the shims. I expected them to pretty much fall into place.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

if the shims went on the new pads like they came off the old pads, you should be good. Use a high temp grease or it will melt... Can you hear the pads dragging? I was wondering if maybe you have a issue with the wheel bearings...


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## Grug (Aug 20, 2009)

If I remove the caliper, the rotor spins with what I would expect is normal drag considering the pads are brand new. As soon as I put the rotor on there is 'more' drag. As soon as I install the caliper slider bolts and snug them down, the drag increases yet again.

While I had the caliper off last night, I added some high pressure / temperature semi-synthethic grease to the sliders. After the re-greasing...the symptoms persisted.

So, I'm thinking new calipers and sliders are at the root of the problem. I think my calipers are only returning part way after you release the brakes.

I don't think it's wheel bearing related as the problems began as soon as the new pads were installed.


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## SPEEDO (Jun 9, 2003)

have you looked at the (caliper) piston? damaged? brake dust built up on it, not letting it return all the way etc


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Another issue I sometimes run into is aftermarket brake pads that fit too tight and need to have the ends ground down a bit. This seems to be more of an issue on cheaper pads (ie Wearever) than quality pads (like Raybestos Pro Series and Akebono). I also usually recommend replacing the hardware at least every other brake pad replacement. PBC or high-temp brake grease should be used to lightly coat the ends of the pads that contact the guide plates and shims.


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## omstech (Dec 15, 2015)

Try this, drive it until they start to lockup jack it up spin the wheels to confirm the problem, now go to the master cylinder and loosen the mounting bolts if the wheels now spin freely your problem is in the booster or you have no free play between the master cyl. piston & push rod, if the wheels remained locked then loosen line at the master cyl. that leads to the front wheels, if they now spin freely then your problem is the master cyl.
NOTE: some pads come with shims already installed, try removing OE shims to see if they still drag, you also said you had to loosen the bleeder screws to retract the pistons, that could also mean that you do have restrictions inside the rubber hoses due to internal separations
good luck.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Post is over four years old; I hope it got it straightened out by now!


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