# payments on your SE-R or ser spec v



## tpi86z (Jul 2, 2005)

Im lookin into getting a new car, and now its between the 
05 se-r spec v, or the 05 srt-4 neon, 
of coarse the neon is faster, 230hp,250tq, and kits for it are fairly in-expensive, but i dont like the fact that is only has a 5speed, and its a poorly built neon but, i know that might sound stupid considering its turbocharged/intercooled. I talked to a guy at the dodge dealership and payments on the srt-4 were like $357 w/ acr comp. package.
But im just trying to look around b4 i decide to buy. I was just tryin to see how much you guys pay per month on your SE-R and SE-R spec v's. 
If i were to get a SE-R spec v the only option i would get is the brembo brakes. Also want to know if you guys are happy with your cars. 
-T


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## xbrandonx (Mar 27, 2004)

I love my spec, and it really doesn't depend on the car as much as what you pay for it, how many months you get it for, and your interest rate.

ARe you planning to finiance through the dealership or through a bank? Either way, if you plan on doing it through your bank, you can get a good idea by taking the amount of the car and deviding it by the total months you're going to pay on it, then multipling the interest.


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## kingnate (Jun 11, 2005)

tpi86z said:


> Im lookin into getting a new car, and now its between the
> 05 se-r spec v, or the 05 srt-4 neon,
> of coarse the neon is faster, 230hp,250tq, and kits for it are fairly in-expensive, but i dont like the fact that is only has a 5speed, and its a poorly built neon but, i know that might sound stupid considering its turbocharged/intercooled. I talked to a guy at the dodge dealership and payments on the srt-4 were like $357 w/ acr comp. package.
> But im just trying to look around b4 i decide to buy. I was just tryin to see how much you guys pay per month on your SE-R and SE-R spec v's.
> ...


I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. The SRT-4 is fun to drive and although it has more hp/tq i thought the spec v was alot more solid car. I felt like I was driving a plastic car with the neon. The spec also felt to me like it was planted on the road not just flying down the road out of control. Another thing that drove me away was the insurance. I didn't like the idea of spending $1000 bucks every 6 months because a bunch of kids bought these and either crashed them or got tickets (the spec v was half that). I am 26 so I would not want to think what insurance would be for people under 25. In other words $300 a month plus $550 every 6 in insurance made the spec v a good choice (plus that means I can spend the extra money I have on mods).

I ended up with the 2005 brilliant aluminum spec V. A little advice about the brembo's. Unless you plan on auto X I wouldn't worry about them. They look like a half ass mod (since its only the front wheels) for starters. Do a search of the forum to find peoples opinion on the brembo brakes. I opted to not get the brembo package and I will later put 4 wheel 4 piston calipers on (brembo or willwood). 

Also another piece of advice no matter which car you buy make sure you have one that has never been test driven. Both cars are notorious for being horse whipped during test drives by salesmen and customers alike. Break in is extremely important on these cars and a horse whipped car will give you nothing but problems. It wont cost anything more than time (since you have to wait) and you will be glad you did down the road. I got mine with 17 miles on it and it still had the protective plastic from the truck on the paint. 

Good luck on your search.


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## chimmike (Oct 17, 2002)

xbrandonx said:


> you can get a good idea by taking the amount of the car and deviding it by the total months you're going to pay on it, then multipling the interest.



uih, it's not quite that simple. it's compound interest. Equations are more difficult.

If you deal with them you can get teh car for less than sticker. Also, it all depends on how much you put down, how your credit is, who your cosigner is, etc. You could pay $300/mo for an SRT4 or $400/mo for a Spec V. I've seen it happen.

payments all depend on YOU, so a thread like this won't help.

just remember, if you REALLY want the SRT4 (really no comparison wiht the Spec V, an the 5spd argument you have....well, just think of it as less shifting, which is better) then you must learn to deal with the dealerships. You COULD walk out the door with an SRT4 paying 18k, if you play your cards right. OR you could pay more than sticker because you don't know how to deal. It's all up to you.


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## kingnate (Jun 11, 2005)

chimmike said:


> uih, it's not quite that simple. it's compound interest. Equations are more difficult.
> 
> If you deal with them you can get teh car for less than sticker. Also, it all depends on how much you put down, how your credit is, who your cosigner is, etc. You could pay $300/mo for an SRT4 or $400/mo for a Spec V. I've seen it happen.
> 
> ...



Dealing with dealerships can be a pain unless you know what you are doing. My dad has been the GM of a dealership since before I was born. Needless to say I know how dealerships work. Make sure you do your homework and you know the breakdown of the msrp and invoice numbers, and make sure you know about what your credit score is. Above all also make sure you speak in terms of actual car cost not payments. If you have good credit (i.e. >650) you can expect a payment of $16 for every $1000 financed. If you credit is bad (i.e. 450 or less) then plan on about $23+ per $1000 financed (assuming you can get financed). These will get you close to what your payments should be. If you want some help or have questions message me I will be glad to help.


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## mille-16i (Jun 16, 2004)

just a personal opinion why buy one new anything you do to it will void out the warrenty and you will be paying the first two years of depreciation let someone else pay that adn get a Spec V that is lightly used pay less and have less to worry about on the warrenty since you may not get a big factory warrenty. That is if you plan on modding the car. I bought a new Ford ZX2 a few years ago and the dealership told me that if I do my own oil changes that can void my warrenty.


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## kingnate (Jun 11, 2005)

mille-16i said:


> just a personal opinion why buy one new anything you do to it will void out the warrenty and you will be paying the first two years of depreciation let someone else pay that adn get a Spec V that is lightly used pay less and have less to worry about on the warrenty since you may not get a big factory warrenty. That is if you plan on modding the car. I bought a new Ford ZX2 a few years ago and the dealership told me that if I do my own oil changes that can void my warrenty.


The warranty will only be voided if they can prove that the modification was the cause of the failure. There was a law passed awhile back (I forget the name if you want I will look it up) that states that the manufacturer must honor the warranty unless the mod was the cause for failure (i.e. if your gas tank springs a leak they can't blame the CAI). If he is that worried about then just use genuine NISMO although the parts are not covered under the warranty it will not void it (there is a sticky post in the QR25 section, i believe, that covers this). 

You will pay for depreciation on the car but if you can get the car for between $600-$800 over invoice with the cash back incentives it will not be too bad. Typically I buy a new car about every 3-4 years and I have never had to pay anything out of pocket for it nor have I ever been upside down.

As for your ford dealership, that is the biggest load of crap I have ever heard. All they were trying to do is get you into the service department cause thats the place where the profit margin is higher. The only way that changing your own oil would void the warranty is if you forgot to put some back in after you drained it or if you used cooking oil. I mean come on, after they told you that, did they tell you that if you paid MSRP or above the car would last longer and run better while whitening your teeth? I'm not trying to be rude but I get pissed off when I hear of or experience an un-scrupulous dealership. Thats why I said you gotta do your homework.

Funny story when I was buying my spec v the dealer Reliable nissan (whom the GM and GSM are personal friends of the family) told me i couldn't test drive them because there was a bad module in the transmission and they couldn't be put into reverse so they could not be driven ( we were looking at the cars that had be backed into there spots as he said this). This was said because GSM knew that the GM said to sell anything to me at $300 over invoice and the GSM's number already looked bad for the month. This is also the same guy who was charging $1900 for a nismo axel back exhaust because he said it adds 20% to resale value, but I digress I called up a competitor (melloy nissan) and they said that is a load of crap (his exact words were "what the hell are you talking aboutcome up and I will sell you a spec ") . Moral is a dealer will always try to screw you no matter who you know so you have to do your homework.


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## systemX (Jun 9, 2005)

Nissan's (NMAC) has 1500 cash back and 1.9% interest for 60 months. I got my loaded 05 for 19.1K (dealer cost with SRS, ABS, RF package, etc..) the 1.5k got me to 17.6k and I put 6.8k down. My payment is like 184 a month for 10.8k if I recall correctly. I think its like $17-18 per 1k of your loan per month, so $17x$10.8k=183 per month. Hope this helps...


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## HATEnFATE (Dec 24, 2002)

systemX said:


> Nissan's (NMAC) has 1500 cash back and 1.9% interest for 60 months.


I received 2500 Cash Back. Can't complain about that. Even though I didn't bargain hard, we got out of a car that we were real upside down on and still paid less then sticker while wiping her car out at the same time.


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## sukebegigi (Mar 5, 2005)

I love my car more everytime I drive it. It's done me no wrong on the racetrack, the autox courses and the awesome roadtrips I've taken it on. Lot's of power in 4th to pass that caravan of RV action. I have found the limits of my car over the 8 months of ownership and drive with total confidence and joy!
I see you're considering a Dodge as well. I've never like American cars, not even one of them. And it's not that I don't like American things, I just never liked the cars. Kinda like how I don't dig Russian, Swedish or East German cars, it's a preference thing. One thing I will say is 230hp + FWD = stupidity. Unless of course you're into the drag racing. But then, why would you be buying a FWD? And also, if you can afford an SRT4, why not scrape up an extra 2 or 3 grand for a WRX then?


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## sukebegigi (Mar 5, 2005)

Here's some tools for helping figure out payments and shit.
http://www.hedge-hog.com/sub/applet/applet8.html
http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~shane007/maths/interest.html
Also consider using a buyer service if you're not an expert car purchaser. I would give a name but I'm fuckin canadian so I'm of little help there.


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## kingnate (Jun 11, 2005)

sukebegigi said:


> I love my car more everytime I drive it. It's done me no wrong on the racetrack, the autox courses and the awesome roadtrips I've taken it on. Lot's of power in 4th to pass that caravan of RV action. I have found the limits of my car over the 8 months of ownership and drive with total confidence and joy!
> I see you're considering a Dodge as well. I've never like American cars, not even one of them. And it's not that I don't like American things, I just never liked the cars. Kinda like how I don't dig Russian, Swedish or East German cars, it's a preference thing. One thing I will say is 230hp + FWD = stupidity. Unless of course you're into the drag racing. But then, why would you be buying a FWD? And also, if you can afford an SRT4, why not scrape up an extra 2 or 3 grand for a WRX then?


Most of the neon is mitsubishi parts anyway so its only technically american.


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## matt123 (Dec 2, 2004)

Asking for what people's car payments are is meaningless. You ought to ask what the sales price is. 

If you're going to finance a car (always a BAD idea), then the interest rate you should be paying in today's market of low interest rates, should not be over 5 to 5.5% if you're not taking advantage of a promo interest rate offered by Nissan.

If the best you qualify for is 7% or up, I would advise AGAINST financing the purchase.


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## sukebegigi (Mar 5, 2005)

kingnate said:


> Most of the neon is mitsubishi parts anyway so its only technically american.


As true as that is, I won't do Mitsubishi either (although I admit I might consider an EVO). And while we're on the subject, you can cross off Suzuki, Hyundai, Daewoo and Kia as well. Especially Kia actually. And to hurt my dad's feelings to know that I think British cars (the ones actually designed and made by the Brits) suck balls.


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## sarsourus (Apr 8, 2005)

my car is 5 months old. what i did is asked to see what the car cost the dealer, and when u ask by law they must tell you how much and must not lie and cut a deal. i got the spec without brembos and he gave me the bumber to bumber 48,000 mile warranty and the drivetrain 60,000 mile warranty free. i took the car 18k out the door(i have a cousine who is a district attorney so no dealer fees or taxes lol) and 5.0 intrest


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## kingnate (Jun 11, 2005)

sarsourus said:


> my car is 5 months old. what i did is asked to see what the car cost the dealer, and when u ask by law they must tell you how much and must not lie and cut a deal. i got the spec without brembos and he gave me the bumber to bumber 48,000 mile warranty and the drivetrain 60,000 mile warranty free. i took the car 18k out the door(i have a cousine who is a district attorney so no dealer fees or taxes lol) and 5.0 intrest


Well considering that a bare bones Spec is $17,300 invoice and included in that is a 5year/60k powertrain and a 3/36k bumper to bumper. So you did get a deal by having them throw in the extra 12k on the bumper to bumper. As for having to show their cost and not cutting a deal I am pretty sure there isn't a law stating that. They can show how much the car cost them and there is a specific amount of money that must make (to stay in business) but that doesn't mean that they will sell it to you for that. Also I am not quite sure sure how a DA can get you out of taxes (dealer fees maybe but you can do that on your own) and expect to get elected again if anyone finds out. In essence he is screwing your state out of money and I doubt voters would appreciate that. Well thats my two cents.


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