# Replacing Ignition Coils- '05



## bgilmore2003 (Mar 14, 2011)

'05 Maxima died on the side of the highway yesterday. Shop told me I need 4 new ignition coils for $1,200. Ouch. Are these difficult to replace myself?
They also said there is a possibility of needing a new catalytic converter but will not know until after the coils are replaced? Sounds fishy to me..
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

REMOVAL 


Remove the engine cover using power tool. 
Drain engine coolant. Refer to "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT". 
Disconnect the mass air flow sensor electrical connector and remove the air cleaner assembly and air intake tubes. Refer to "Removal and Installation". 
Remove the intake manifold collector, gasket, and electric throttle control actuator. Refer to "Removal and Installation". 
Remove the six ignition coils. 
CAUTION: Do not shock it.

INSTALLATION 
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

*You can get genuine Nissan ignition coils (P/N: 22448-8J115) for about $82 each from AAA Nissan Parts


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## edortir6 (May 26, 2006)

Smj999smj, just for my knowledge why would he have to drain the coolant to replace the coils. I've done this plenty of times and never drain the coolant. Just want to make sure I'm not missing a step.


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## 05SmokeSE (Mar 23, 2011)

edortir6 said:


> Smj999smj, just for my knowledge why would he have to drain the coolant to replace the coils.


You do NOT have to drain the coolant to remove the coils.

You only have to drain the coolant if you are removing the LOWER intake manifold, since you are then opening up some coolant passages. Since you only have to remove the UPPER intake manifold to get at the back bank of cylinders and their coils, there is no need to drain the coolant.

You can access the front bank of cylinders and their coils just by removing the engine dress-up cover.

As such, I would just do the front three first and see if your problem goes away. If not, then take the trouble of removing the upper intake manifold to get at the back bank.

Do you have a factory service manual? If not, there is a link around this forum somewhere to download a PDF version.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Information on R&R was from ALLDATA. Their info is what it is!


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## 05SmokeSE (Mar 23, 2011)

smj999smj said:


> Information on R&R was from ALLDATA. Their info is what it is!


Well... their info is clearly wrong, which doesn't help the OP.

It doesn't help folks to cut and paste info out of generic manuals if it's wrong. If you are going to do that then may I suggest that you post a disclaimer stating where the info was from. That would certainly qualify the information and allow the reader to take it for as you say "what it is".

No offense intended at all here, really.  I'm just saying if you're not sure about an answer, say so, or if you got the answer from somewhere else, say so. That helps.

I try my best to help folks out on this and many other boards. I'm new on this board but my reputation is well known on others that I frequent regularly. If I'm not sure of an answer I say so. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've been working on cars and motorcycles for over 45 years now. I've pulled and rebuilt engines and transmissions out of many cars back when my hobby was restoring 60s and 70s muscle cars. I've read volumes of manuals on automotive computer controls, actuators, and sensors. I have acquired a volume of information and experience over those 45 years that I gladly share on these boards to help people whenever and however I can.

If my response correcting and clarifying your answer has offended you, I assure you that was not my intention. My intention was to make sure that the OP's question got answered correctly so that he could get the job done.

Best regard,


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

ALLDATA's info comes from the vehicle manufacturer. I looked up the procedure for the upper intake collector R&R and found this note, which explains why they tell you to drain the coolant:

"The gasket for intake manifold collector (upper) is secured together with intake manifold collector (lower) bolt. Thus, when replacing only the upper gasket the lower gasket must also be replaced." Here's the procedure for R&R of the intake manifold collector. Disclaimer: PER ALLDATA! Better?:

Removal and Installation 

REMOVAL 

WARNING: 


To avoid the danger of being scalded, never drain the coolant when the engine is hot. 
The gasket for intake manifold collector (upper) is secured together with intake manifold collector (lower) bolt. Thus, when replacing only the upper gasket the lower gasket must also be replaced. 
Remove the cowl top. Refer to "Removal and Installation". 
Remove the windshield wiper assembly. Refer to "Removal and Installation of Wiper Motor and Linkage".








Remove the engine cover using power tool. 
Remove air cleaner case lid and mass air flow sensor, and air intake tube as an assembly. Refer to "Removal and Installation". 
Partially drain the coolant when the engine is cool. Refer to "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT". 
Disconnect the following:
Power brake booster vacuum hose 
Coolant hoses from the intake manifold collector 
Swirl control vacuum lines to power valve and intake manifold collector upper 
Fuel injector electrical connectors 
PCV hose 
Electric throttle control actuator electrical connector 
EVAP canister purge hose 
EGR temperature sensor electrical connector
CAUTION: 


Cover any engine openings to avoid the entry of any foreign material.
Remove the EGR tube (to lower intake manifold collector) nuts. 
Disconnect the power steering hose bracket from the rear of the intake manifold collector. 
Remove the EVAP canister purge volume solenoid valve bracket bolt. Position the valve aside. 
Remove the VIAS control solenoid valve bracket bolt. Position the valve aside. 
Remove the vacuum tank. 
Remove the intake manifold collector support bracket from the back of the intake manifold collector using power tool.








Loosen the intake manifold collector bolts in the order shown using power tool, and remove the intake manifold collector and gasket.








If necessary, remove the electric throttle control actuator bolts in the order shown and remove the electric throttle control actuator.
CAUTION: 


Handle carefully to avoid any shock to the electric throttle control actuator. 
Do not disassemble.








If necessary, remove the intake manifold collector (upper) bolts in the order shown, using power tool and remove the intake manifold collector.
CAUTION: Handle carefully to avoid any shock to the electric throttle control actuator, if installed.









If necessary, remove power valve bolts in the order shown and remove the power valve. 
If necessary remove the following components:
Vacuum tank 
VIAS control solenoid valve 
EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve
INSTALLATION 
Installation is in the reverse order of removal, paying attention to the following.

NOTE: After installation, it is necessary to re-calibrate the electric throttle control actuator as follows:



Perform the "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" when harness connector of the electric throttle control actuator is disconnected. Refer to "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning". 
Perform the "Idle Air Volume Learning" when the electric throttle control actuator is replaced. Refer to "Idle Air Volume Learning".








If necessary, install power valve bolts in the order shown.
Power valve bolts : 17.6 - 21.6 Nm (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 -15 ft. lbs.) 









If necessary, tighten the intake manifold collector pipe bolts in the order shown.
Intake manifold collector pipe bolts : 17.6 - 21.6 Nm (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 - 15 ft. lbs.) 









If necessary, install the electric throttle control actuator bolts in the order shown. Install gasket with three protrusions facing down.
Electric throttle control actuator bolts : 7.2 - 9.6 Nm (0.74 - 0.97 kg-m, 64 - 84 inch lbs.) 









Install the intake manifold collector bolts in the order shown. Intake manifold collector bolts : 17.6 - 21.6 Nm (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 -15 ft. lbs.) 










© 2011 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved. 
Terms of Use


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## 05SmokeSE (Mar 23, 2011)

smj999smj said:


> "The gasket for intake manifold collector (upper) is secured together with intake manifold collector (lower) bolt. Thus, when replacing only the upper gasket the lower gasket must also be replaced."


Very interesting... and very confusing at the same time.

I'm looking at the Nissan factory service manual and can see the intake manifold collector (upper) gasket and the intake manifold collector (lower), but no indication in the parts diagram of a bolt that is supposed to connect the two somehow.

The upper collector gasket and the lower collector hold-down bolts are about a half a foot apart and on two different planes at a 90 degree angle to each other. I don't have a clue how those two would be connected, and the manual doesn't show it.

What does make sense to me about partially draining the coolant is that the factory service manual says that there are coolant lines connected to the intake manifold collector (lower). If that is so, then you would certainly have to drain some coolant even though the intake manifold itself (not the intake manifold collector upper or lower) doesn't have to be removed.

Looks like the OP is just going to have to find this out when he is into the disassembly procedure.

If he does it, he needs to post up a picture of that bolt! I'd like to know where it is and how it connect to that gasket.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Refer back to post #5... I don't recall any bolt, either, but I left Nissan at the end of the '03. My "old man memory" ain't what it used to be! I thought there was a coolant hose, or hoses, going to the throttle body for the IAC, because I remember the issues with the 3.0L's leaking coolant into the harness and shorting the ECM, but I'm not sure if the 3.5L's are setup the same?


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## 05SmokeSE (Mar 23, 2011)

smj999smj said:


> My "old man memory" ain't what it used to be!


Yup, mine isn't either.

That's why I look everything up, and have Post-It notes all over the place!


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