# Replace or Rebuilt engine, broken Rod 1991



## twhite (Dec 31, 2009)

I have a 1991 Maxima that has been "babied", is straight, rust-free, all routine maintenance, many major parts replaced. Only 110k miles and drives like a champ.
Last weekend I had a breakdown, loud clatter, dropped the pan and found #6 piston rod broken. Incidently, 2 oil changes ago my mechanic talked me into using Mobile1 Syn. 
I've gotten two opinions on repair/or not:
1. Mechanic one, excellent guy, totally trust him, but he's REAL busy most of the time. Said, donate the car to charity, why put $2 grand into a car worth less than that.
2. Mechanic two, just met him and comes HIGHLY recommended, have a good feel about him/skills. Said, replace with Reman'd engine $1100 + $700 labor, OR replace with carefully selected used engine $700 + $500.

I'm curious as can be! Doesn't anyone REPAIR engine internals on cars of this vintage, or are they considered "consumables"? In other words, use 'em until they break and then replace and toss the original into the landfill/junkyard?
Thanks for any guidance! 
Terry
Phoenix, AZ.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The problem with broken rods of any vintage of engine is what other internal damage did the rod breakage cause. Damage such as cracked/broken block, damaged cylinder wall, damaged crankshaft journal.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

In addition to Rogoman's comments, rebuilding an engine in a shop can be very time consuming and expensive. A part of the decision lies within the condition of the rest of the car, your financial situation and the mileage you'll be putting on the vehicle...along with your own personal attachment to the vehicle. Warranty of a replacement engine or engine repair should also be taken into consideration. For many people, a low mileage used engine with a warranty is often the most practical solution when it comes to cost.


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## twhite (Dec 31, 2009)

Thank you both for the quick reply!
Yes, I agree there's no doubt about addtional internal "issues" to be dealt with, judging by the "creamy blenderized" oil/water I drained from it.

I am leaning toward replacement with a used engine or reman'd engine. 
It's been difficult to find someone to do that here in Phoenix so far. If push comes to shove, I'm sure I could figure it out myself -- not the rebuild, but a replacement (I've done dumber things -- but just don't want to "know" that much more about this car, if I can help it, heh heh .

With a Used replacement, it seems like I'm just buying a lot of work and near-term headaches. Since my 105k mile engine died, why expect a similar one to be much better. So a reman'd seems to make the most sense to me. Any ideas on places that have as much pride in their rebuilds as we do in our Maxis'??

Thanks again guys! 
T


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Jasper engines are pretty good and has a nationwide warranthy, but they can be pricey. You may want to try a search through Ebay and see what's available. As far as the VG30taking a dump at 110,000 miles, it's not the norm. I've seen many go well over 200,000 miles with routine service and a few at over 300,000 miles.


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## twhite (Dec 31, 2009)

Thanks a lot smj, I'll definitely check out Jasper for re-manufactured engines and see what I find! As I research sources I keep running into automotix.net and motoiq.com, wonder if anyone has experience with them? Will go look at Jasper this morning.

I'm currently pouring thru my factory service manual researching the extraction process, trying to anticipate what other parts I should consider "while I'm in there" (ie. motor mounts, gasket sets, CV Boot covers, Power Steering gets a wee bit loose on hard acceleration, so will inspect/repair as needed, yike, etc.).
Also trying to map out what I'll need in terms of additional tools, engine hoist, engine stand?, garage space, parts organization bench space. Looks like a big job, but doable if I keep it organized, else it becomes a "basket case", yah know!? hehheh .
Thx again! T

ps.. Happy Veterans Day to all our Servicemen/women!


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## twhite (Dec 31, 2009)

*Jasper does not stock the VG30E, but will check and let you know..*

Unfortunately, Jasper doesn't stock the VG30E engine. 
Considering how many hundreds of thousands of these engines Nissan turned out, I was very disappointed to find this out & sent them a note saying so (who knows could be a website "search" prob or an inventory prob?). 
I'll report back with any alternatives I find and hope that is helpful for anyone else out there with this same predicament. 
Tw


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You should check into JDM (Japan domestic market) used engines. Most of these are under 60,000 miles (something to do with their emission laws requiring them to replace engines at 100,000 kilometers, so I've heard) and can be had at a good price. I got a JDM engine for a Subaru not long ago with 45,000 miles for $650 and it came with everything, including alternator, P/S pump, harness.. As far as R&R, the engine can be removed several ways. You can unbolt the trans and pull the engine through the top (remove the hood for easier access). You can drop the engine/trans assy. with crossmember out through the bottom of the car. I have access to a lift, which makes it easier, obviously. What I do at the shop is pull the trans out using a trans jack. With the car hoisted up in the air, I bolt on the head of my engine stand, slide the stand onto the head, then lower the vehicle down until the engine stand touches the ground. Then I remove the center crossmember to body bolts and raise the vehicle, leaving me with the engine and crossmember assy. sitting on the engine stand.


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## twhite (Dec 31, 2009)

Thank You SMJ! Your suggestion about JDM Engines is intriguing. I've been doing a lot of reading on this and also have suggested same to a mechanic (one who may get involved in my project, maybe? He's looking into engine sources for me...). 

Of course, I should (and likely will) just stick to the basics and get my VG30E back up and running. However, while reading on JDMs, I've been tempted with the notion of a VG30DE for the added horsepower and the chain versus belt for timing. Preliminarily it looks like this would be a slick fit in my 91 GXE, but as with many things, there may be some "hairy restrictions/challenges" to this upgrade (ie.. diff computer, programming, sensors, etc..). Any experience with this? Thx again for all your invaluable feedback, T


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I believe you mean the "VE30DE," which was available in the SE versions of the J30 Maximas (92-94 IIRC). The "VG30DE" was used in the Nissan Fairlady (Japan) and 300ZX, which were rear wheel drive. Overall, the "VE30DE" was a good motor. It had some problems with the variable timing gears making noise. The gears are a small fortune to buy complete; Nissan did come up with a repair kit which was fairly inexpensive, but you need the special service tool to press apart and reassemble the VTC gear and it was very tricky to get the internals lined up properly. Another big problem with them was coil pack failure and not uncommon to the troubles the VQ series engines had. It was often hard to pinpoint the exact coil that failed and failed coils would sometimes cause RF interferance through the EGI harness and cause the ECM to screw up. Replacing the affected coil(s) and adding a supplemental ground to the power transistor was the fix. Other than that, they were pretty trouble free and had good power. The engine itself should bolt in, but you will need to swap over the ECM and EGI harness and a bit of wire work. The SE's that came with the VE30DE also came with the visous transmission (similar to a limited slip) as opposed to the "open" diff of your VG30E Maxima, but your trans will still bolt up. The VE30DE did offer another 30hp over the VG30E and the VE's heads were much better flowing than the VG's. As far as the benefit of a chain over a belt, I wouldn't weigh too much into that. Timing belts are fine as long as they are replaced at their suggested time interval and do offer less dynamic vibration than timing chains. If you do stick with the VG, you could always switch to the 105,000 mile timing belt design; the cam and crank sprockets will swap over if your replacement engine doesn't have the 105K. belt design, already.


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