# Tips to make Rear Suspension Work easier



## gdombroski (Mar 15, 2010)

I'm in the midst of the project to replace all bushings in rear suspension. First project is bigger then expected as a lot of time is needed for component cleanup. Here's what I bought
Differential Mount Z31Parts.com :: High Performance Z31 300ZX Parts

Sway bar Poly with greaseable fittings and poly links

Control Arm & Crossmember Poly

New Coil Springs from JC Whitney $55-They are Raybestos and about an inch shorter then stock so should go in easier. Worried about that so contacted Raybestos tech support. They said that's because theirs are higher compression then OEM and guarenteed to work.

Critical tools for project are 1/2 socket wrench with extensions, short and long, various size sockets some deep wells, found out did not need all metrics and for deep wells that some different size spark plug sockets worked. A piece of pipe about 2-3 feet that fits over the socket wrench handle. Because without the added leverage you'll have a hell of a time removing some bolts, especially crossmember/differential. Also, need a couple of long closed end wrenches and a brake line wrench. If interested I could update with sizes. A Mapp torch set. I got one at home Depot for $41. I didn't just buy the Mapp and use with my propane tip as I read they are not rated for the higher heat.

Now, to a some tips that will save time.
First presoak all bolts/nuts with PB blaster or equiv. *several times the days before *.

Jack up high enough so when shock disconnected spring comes out easily.

Disconnect Parking brake from front side of crossmember, no need to to disconnect at hub.

Disconnect axles at wheel ub, four bolts on bottom easily accessible after removing the two bolts holding the parking cable to the bottom stay, remove the clips holding the cable to crossmember and loosening the stay swival bolt no need to take it off just drop it down to access axle bolts. Reasons for this are less chance of damage to axles because when still attached control arm would not drop low enough to easily remove springs, you don't have to screw around with exhaust system as drivers side axle goes over it, and removal of rest is easier and lighter.


At this point make sure you have two of these or equiv.Mover's Dolly they are all that is needed to easily move the crossmember and control arms out from beneath when we get there.

Next, remove sway bar and links

Lower the control arms and remove springs before lowering crossmember.

No need to remove the differential!!

Now disconnect the differential mounting bracket from the frame with jack underneath rear of diff. remove bracket if you are replacing. 

Lower diff. so that you can access nuts on topholding it to the crossmemberseveral inches, with socket wrench and pipe extension. 
Remove nuts/bolts holding crossmember. With closed end on bolt undo the nuts. Rejack diff up and attach to frame loosly with hubs on dollys and move jack under crossmember, remove the crossmember nuts and stays from both sides. Lower the jack and slide out. 

Now you are done with the easier part.

Next is getting out the crossmember bushings which is easier then some writeups allude to. All you need is a hacksaw with fast cut blade, hammer and a punch. Just saw though the narrowest part of the rubber, both sides, holding the sleeve to the bushing. No need to cut the larger ones out as they are only attached to the inner sleeves in three places and are easily removed by hammering a screwdriver behind them, which will give access for the hacksaw. You don't need two cuts just one. Now take your punch and starting out at the cut hammer punch inward working out in each direction an inch or two and the sleeve will start to drop out. 

Now remove the control arms *remember to mark the concentic bolt location*. I Light up your torch and burn the rubber so it starts to bubble on both sides of the sleeve. Get you 1/2 socket extension with hammer and you can now punch the sleeves out. Burn away after about five minutes you can take a large screwdriver with hammer and remove a lot of the rubber in large pieces. Burn away large pieces. This took about 1/2 hour to do all four. A small wire brush will clean out the residue nicely when applying more heat and brushing.

Next I am going to reassembly with all parts cleaned. If doing poly bushings get a tube of blue marine grease, mobile 1 or this Valvoline/1 lb. (453.592 g.) Semi-Synthetic Durablend grease (278) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com I'm using it because it contains moly. If using Poly you really don't have to worry to much here even petroleum based are OK according to Energy Suspension techs. Water resistance, lube properties and staying power are key.

Now I am ready to attack reassemby. Have a plan based just reversing the above disassembly will update if any significant findings.


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