# overdrive woes.............



## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

for the past few days i've been trying to figure out why my overdrive has not been working. i finally got my truck on the road after being my project for approx 6wks. i have yet to give it an oil change, and tranny flush n' filter, but other than that it works good. the overdrive light doesn't come on, and the rpm's make no change. i've pulled every fuse in my fuse panel and there was nothing blown. can anyone send me in the right direction? thanks


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

do that oil and tranny flush...


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

well, i did the tranny flush and filter, but i've got bigger problems now. i think the truck jumped it's timing lastnight. apparently there are 2 belts for my truck and i don't know which one to get. round tooth or square tooth. i think i'll get both with a haynes and get er' done


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

did the timing belt, cap and plugs. it has all new fuel lines and filter on it. also put in a k and n air filter in it. the truck still seems to have a slight hesitation when going down the road. i'm not sure where to go from here. i didn't put new wires on it cuz i didn't see any arcing at night so i assumed they were fine.

any sugestions?


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

how many miles? if you haven't done a sea foam treatment do that...took my hez away.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

gotcha. there's 249 000 give or take. i'll get a can today. thanks. i'll let ya's all know.


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

sitting at 153 almost...can't wait to get that high


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

well, i spent all morning searching for info to fix the rest of my "bugs" in my truck. i even bought a haynes manual, and downloaded the pdf file for it. basically i'm down to this: i disconnected my DRL and once i did that my dash lights are extrememly dim. maybe i should hook those back up. i put a new set of headlights in it, and now the driver's side high beam don't work. my overdrive button still aint working. i'll let ya's know my progress today as i'll take my laptop outside with me


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

figured out my headlight problem, no big deal. found an exhaust leak on the y pipe, so i gotta find one of those. i bought a can of seafoam and put it in the tank. i think the hesitation is still there though. i'll know more tomorrow when i get it up on the highway. also i tore up my console tonight to figure something out with my overdrive switch. there is no power at the switch or conector anywheres. am i missing a fuse or something here? haynes doesn't get into much detail with the overdrive.

thanks


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

coolen said:


> i bought a can of seafoam and put it in the tank. i think the hesitation is still there though. i'll k


in the gas tank is fine will do just about as good as b12...now buy another can and run half of that threw the brake booster...clean that carbon up there that the injectors can't get


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

cool, thanks. i'll do that today, and i'll let ya know how i make out.


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## 63554 (Jan 5, 2007)

smikster said:


> in the gas tank is fine will do just about as good as b12...now buy another can and run half of that threw the brake booster...clean that carbon up there that the injectors can't get


Do you recommend 1/3 in oil 1/3 in gas and 1/3 in brake booster like the can does?


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

slowly feed into brake booster i've seen some cars like up to 2/3 the can. some as little as 1/4. can holds a long time or use in another veh. b12 for gas and and not sticking that in my oil


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

should i change oil after the intake treatment?


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

It is best to do it right before a oil change. if you youtube the videos you will get the gen idea how to do it. also not worth doing any less then 30k miles...you will just be wasting your money...but if its never been done 100k plus woo like a god send


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i did the seafoam through the brake booster vaccum. it certainly smoked like a trooper. i played with the daytime lights again. i unhooked it because i have a set of fog lights that i use with park lights during the dusk hours. at first i had one high beam out, so i plugged one of the connectors back into the daytime module-and that problem was fixed. however now my dash lights are extremely dim and don't want to get any brighter. so maybe i'm gonna have to plug in that other connector into the drl module to see if that gives me my dash lights back. i had the overdrive plug undone yesterday as well. i can't figure out why it isn't working. there's power in the plug but the light on the dash isn't working, and there is no change in the rpms. is there a hiding fuse somewhere, or is it only that tranny module outfit under the seat that control it?

thanks


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i pulled every fuse that i could find, and no luck. 

also, i'll be changing my Y pipe within days, is this going to be a PITA job?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

got my y pipe changed, well the passenger side pipe anyways. however i'm still at a loss with the overdrive issue, and also, i don't have smooth acceleration. it's not a terrible "miss", but it's noticeable. it's got, new cap, rotor button, plugs, fuel lines, filter. possibly ignition timing?

thanks


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

clean your maf


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

brake cleaner? dump some seafoam over/through it? what would you suggest? 

thanks


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

take it out and spray some brake cleaner threw it. you could leave it in and spray cleaner threw it but ehhh vaper lock your engine for a bit lol

i used q tips...and woo mine was dirty but use q tips at your own parel...thats a pricy part


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

Cleaned the sensor, unfortunatley, no change. any other suggestions?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i also figured today that my climate control panel light didn't work. the bulb is not blown. also there is no power going to it. relation to overdrive not working?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i changed out my gas cap, as mine was not letting air in apparently. still no change. could my issue with my "surge" be caused my timing? it doesn't seem to do it with the revs high. could also be my wires i suppose.


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

did you do the smokeout (seafoam) still thinking on it. how bad is the surge...when cold or hot or all the time from a cold start? could also be your egr valve. have you replaced it?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i did do the seafoam. smoked like i don't know what. i cleaned the maf acording to the directions. i haven't replaced the egr. it does it hot and cold. it's not a terrible surge. however i do notice it.
i guess i'll test the egr, and replace accordingly.


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

just replace very cheap. i hope thats it.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i have yet to try a new egr. however i did put new wires on it. seemed to help a bit acceleration wise. what i'd really like to do it put a timing light on it to see where it sits. if i take it to a garage to get done, where should i ask to have the distr set?

thanks. as in advance the timing so many degrees.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

also, i've been doing a lot of research concerning my od woes. if my tcs was faulty, could that cause my condition? and what about the thermostat? my light does not come on or off. i tested for power at the switch and got nothing. i would think that there would be 12v there at all times to one side of it anyways.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

also, my temp guage does not go past a quarter of the way up. some of the posts i've seen it almost seems normal. however i could not find a definite answer. what would some symptoms be if the engine was overcooling itself all of the time?

thanks
so far i've been enjoying the truck. these little problems gotta go.

95 nissan pickup, v6 auto.

also, has anyone tried one of those breather inserts that claim to give more horse power and better fuel effeciency? i'm considering the "tornado"


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i decided against the "tornado", because of the research i've been doing online. seems to be just another gimmik. anyways, my hesitation is still there. the best way i can describe it is when i'm accelerating, my tach will hit many "dead spots". as it goes up, it will stop for a fraction of a second, then continue up. then stop then continue, and so on.
there's no check engine light. any ideas?


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

if your engine sounds fine its just sticking


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

the engine does sound good. it's just those dead spots as i accelerate. it's sorta drivin' me nuts. i'm gonna put a tester on the fuel line and see what the pump is pushing for pressure.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

just out of curiosity, what would be "sticking"?

thanks


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## smikster (Aug 12, 2008)

hmm like in my old nissan when i would get on the interstate my mph gauge would stop at 40 then jump real fast to 60 when i got there


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

so what did it end up being? also, what does the fuel check valve off the tank do?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

i decided to keep using this thread with my questions so i don't have to flood the board. anyways, would my 95 hardbody have a data port? i could get all the software for my laptop for a good price, but i don't want to waste my money. the seller claims it will work with any 95 plus vehicles. can anyone verify this for me?

thanks


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

so i'm one step closer to solving my od issue. i tested the switch, and it is working perfectly. (ground switch) So wherever those wires go / end up, must be my issue. another thing that i only noticed lastnight, was that when i turn my key ahead, the od does not light up with every other light. is this normal?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

still haven't been able to figure out the od issue, but i just finished running all the modes in the ecm. and every single one was fine. where should i go from here?


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## imperium (Sep 11, 2008)

hey, im sorry this wont be helping but where exactly is the drl unit, im trying to disable mine for hid's and i dont know how


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

the DRL module is next to the battery, tucked into the fender. if you stand infront of your truck, with the battery removed and look to your left inside the fender- you will see it.


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## imperium (Sep 11, 2008)

awsome thanks


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

so i came to the conclusion that the switch is a negative one. that seems to be working (the swich itself), so there is a fuse somewhere that i don't know about, or the cancel solenoid isn't working. any suggestions?


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## 94_nismo_freak (Dec 17, 2008)

just for sh!ts and giggles did you check the light in the dash if its out that is an incomplete circut right?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

would the light bulb make an incomplete circuit for that?


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## 94_nismo_freak (Dec 17, 2008)

i dont know but its worth it to check for under a buck


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

you're right, i'm about ready to try anything. any idea's about a fuse location? or solenoid location?

thanks


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## 94_nismo_freak (Dec 17, 2008)

let me look some stuff out ill get back to you


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks a lot!!!!!!!!


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## 94_nismo_freak (Dec 17, 2008)

just curios have you checked your inhibitor switch? does the revolution switch have any thing to do with this? ill keep looking and let you know what i find out and same for you thanks


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

I haven't thought about the inhibitor switch. I'll do some checking and let you know what I figure out.

can't say that I've heard about the revolution switch....
Thanks


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

Just a thought but you might want to double check that it's NOT an O/D OFF light. Some vehicles have a switch to disable the O/D and lockup converter when going up long grades (among other things) so that the transmission does not keep cycling between 3rd and OD. 

I have an 88 4cyl, so I may be clueless wrt your version.

I did not see whether your surge problem was solved. If the surge is only apparent through the Tachometer and is not physically noticible, it is likely to be the gauge and not the motor. If instead the vehicle is showing a laggy accelleration that appears in steps, you might want to check the manifold vaccuum near the throttle body and then again at the vaccuum modulator on the transmission. They should be identical (or ridiculously close). If they aren't check for a leak in the line between the manifold and the modulator. 

w/ 249K miles you could be due for a tranny rebuild as the friction material in the transmission could be wearing out. When I get a chance I will look at the AT diagnostic manual and see if there's a possible cause there. (I bought an official one for my truck on ebay). 

I had a similar problem in my camry with 308,000 miles - the forward number one clutch pack died (might have something to do with teenage drivers and thier inate failiure to grasp the concept of 'take it easy' <G>). Still goes backwards fine though... <G>. 

Also if you have one available (or can rent one) check the transmission pump pressure at the test port - low pressure will cause sluggish action in the valve body & servos as well as incomplete or delayed mechanical action in the clutch packs or brake bands. 

-- Ken


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

LIghting issues - check the light switch.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

I don't feel that is only the OD light as I do not feel or see any difference in RPM when I hit the switch. 
The whole "surge" thing is still there. It isn't just the tach, you can also hear it in the engine. The truck always starts fine, drives fine, and it seems to shift and hold it's gear well. However, I will double check the vaccum lines that you speak of, and hope for the best. I think when I go over them again, I'll go in with a propane torch to see if the idle increases at all while I'm checking them. The acceleration doesn't seem to really "lag". It just for some reason seems to have a tough time going through the 2500-3000rpm range. I don't feel any shuddering or anything, it's just that the accleration isn't as smooth as it should be. I have a bad feeling that it's gonna be "one of those things", that may never get resolved. You wouldn't know where I could find a maual for my truck that shows in detail the wiring and vaccum routes? My haynes seem to lack in those departments. Thanks!


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

Have you had the opportunity to check your material foxkw?

Thanks!!


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

Manuals -

I ran across this earlier but they were down for a while - you'll need to register for access to the manuals (free) : PhatG20
1. register
2. login
3. downloads
4. Factory Service manuals (FSM)
5. Nissan

The 1996 should be close enough.


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

Manuals part 2 - I did not get a chance to look in the diagnostics section of the manual yet (though I did post the link to online manuals) ..

I have the transmission out of mine and I need to get it back on the road. It literally blew the frot seal (behind the torque converter) out of its seat, and was leaking fluid all over the place. It's been slow going because i'm working alone in a cramped area. Not to mention I'm getting to be a geezer.

The diagnostics should be in the manaul for down load.

It should walk you through the tests.


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

Hesitation 
Check the vacuum - should be 17" and steady at the manifold. If it's not steady (other than MINOR pulsation) then check the compression.

Now that I think about it, and I did not see anyone mention this before, Check the injectors - they may not be flowing properly or one is sticking. 

OR follow the diagnostic routine in the manual. 

The 1995 might have an ODBII connector/port. That would be w/in 18" of the ignition lock(or steeing wheel) if I remember correctly. 

If you have one, Autozone will check the codes for you for free. Also AZ will also loan tools w./ a deposit equal to the puchase price of the tool.

Good luck..


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

that's great!! i just signed up, and put the info on my laptop. unfortunatley i have no access to autozone because i'm in canada. 
however thanks again, i'll definitley be reviewing everything that file has to offer tonight. hopefully a 96 is indeed close enough to my 95.
thanks a million.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

oh, and i think my truck is a obd1 because i can "read" the led lights on the ecm. so i'm assuming that it is a obd1?


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

I don't know about the ODB1 versus ODBII. I had a 95 dodge neon that was ODBII but because it was a 95, I could not get the ODBII emissions test done here, it had to go on the dyno. That said, ODBII diags were accessable throught the port.

without first hand knowledge, I imagine that Nissan may have just left the LEDs in place as opposed to reengineering the box but I don't know for sure. 

My brother has a Pathy but I don't rmember what year that is. I'll call him and see - he might have the manual for a pre 96.


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

OK it's 0400 and I just got in from the garage after reinstalling the repaired transmission. No leaks in that arena but I have a new smell.. 

Also found my brake problem - rear wheel cylinder is defective in a slow and insidous way - no puddle of fluid but it soaked everything inside the drum and backing plate with brake fluid which ate the paint right off. ( the D21 has been parked since September) 

g'night.


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

WOW, there is so much info in that pdf file. looks like i'm going to be busy for a bit doing the good ol ' read n' fix thing. i hope that the 96 is close to identical to my 95. good work on your tranny. do you know what the new smell is? also, did you have to remove the torsion bars to take the tranny out?
thanks


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## foxkw (Dec 26, 2008)

transmission removal was a PITA. A lift or a pit would make this a thoudand times easier.

1. the torsion bars don't have to come out in 2wd models, I can't speak for the 4wd version . 
2. you more or less have to pull the motor to get the transmission out because the tail housing on the transmission hangs out over a welded fram crossmember amd you cannot back the tranny far enough from the motor to tilt the bell housing down and drag the tranny out. Therefore you have to hang the motor from a hoist and swing it forward to get the clearance. 

3. when "pulling the motor" all you need to do is remove the fan shroud, radiator, starter motor, and A/C compressor. Disconnect various hoses (fuel, PS, coolant, etc) and wires. Unbolt the motor mounts, and it's pretty much free to swing around. Put a piece of corrugated cardboard in between the A/C condensor and the engine fan. 

4. This is a good time to install an auxillary oil cooler and electric fans.

-----

I had to pull my trans because it was hemoraging fluid from the front seal region. It turns out that the seal had been blown out of it's seat in the pump. I've never seen any seal do that before. My best guess as to what happened is that it was a combination of the following factors:

1. Relatively high mileage 160-190K 
2. It was parked for 5+ years without being driven (the truck, while painted red was actually a soft and fuzzy textured green when I got my hands on it)
3. Prior to doing some towing with it, I installed a big auxillary trans fluid cooler on it.
4. where I could not see it, the cooler hose worked itself in to a tight spot and got a minor kink (it was obviously still flowing fluid but the volume could have been reduced - I don't know whether this was an issue one way or the other) 
5. Towing put some major strain (heat & pressure) on the trans, and assuming the kinked hose above was a factor, it becaume excessive. Interestingly enough, the trans did NOT crap out while towing or carrying a load of any sort. 
6. The seal around the torque converter looked perfect however, outer part of the seal (where it mated with the pump housing) was discolored - it had a tinge of light brown (like the shelac we used to use for gasket sealer back inthe 70's & 80's) to it - I would hazard a guess that it was due to heat. 

Fun Fun Fun. 

Gotta go put in a new wheel cylinder now...


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

well, i haven't had the opportunity to do any testing yet, but l've got to do lots of reading, thanks again!

I also think it would be safe to say that my hesitation is not present when the truck is cold. so i'm thinking fuel delivery. Injector(s)? Just because the demand for fuel is more when the engine is cold. I'm sure there is a test sequence in that manual that will tell me how to check the injectors..correct?


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## coolen (Jul 17, 2008)

from what i've been seeing in the 96 d21 fsm, in 96 there were no trucks with the VG30E. Is this correct?


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