# Sound Proofind b14



## Psch91 (May 18, 2002)

Hey guys

Im trying to sound proof my b14 trunk today, but that thing has so many ups and downs and wholes and lines, I dont know where to start! Can any of you that have done it give me some pointers, I dont want to have air bubbles everywhere. The only bad thing is, is that I only have a 33 foot by 4 inch roll though, so its kinda short

thanks though


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## Psch91 (May 18, 2002)

Well, I just got done with doing my trunk lid. I did 1 layer of the stuff, and in some areas 2 where I overlapped it. Generally, I think it did help some, but since the whole car rattles, its not such a big difference. However, when I open the lid a little bit, there is close to no rattling, and when I close it, it starts rattling loud (as expected since its closed.) But now, there is a much louder rattle....under my car! I believe the wheel well under the car is actually rattling. Its only like a thin type of material, which I can push a little up and down with my hands. Again, when I open the trunk a little, it is not there. It was not there before either, so the sound proofing on the lid must help some, since its diverting the sound down into the wheel well. Ill have to get some real sound proofing stuff, since I cant work the trunk with 4 inch strips. Im going to try to do my whole car, since the rattling is just incredible. No one cares about this thread, so it doesnt matter


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## HuMMerMan (Jan 22, 2003)

Psch91 said:


> * No one cares about this thread, so it doesnt matter  *


I care 

Anyways, im thinking about doing the trunk in my B12 [it rattles like you would not believe  ], and was hoping someone with experiance with this stuff would post some tips or tricks. Sounds like yours is coming along nicely


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## Psch91 (May 18, 2002)

I started doing the doors today. I just got done taking off that gooey white shit, and damn, is that stuff gooey! Took me nearly 50 mins to scrape, rub, and clean the door. I was just wondering, after im done with the sound proofing it, do I stick the plastic sheet back over? Since im guessing its for the rain. Im thinking I dont need too and probably wont, unless you guys have a reason I should put it back on.


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## Psch91 (May 18, 2002)

Today, I started doing my trunk walls, and whew, hard stuff. Well, I took off the seat belt mechanism because I needed to get under it, but in the process, it managed to roll itself up. Now I cant get it back down again. Do I just keep jiggling with it until it releases the belt?

NVM, I got it. I did one half of the trunk walls, the right side, and tomorrow ill do the bottom of the trunk (wheel well) and then Ill get working on the left side of it, hopefully it will stop the rattling trunk wise. Then ill need to get some more Peel and Seal and start working on inside the cabin and possibly the roof.


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## Chicago Tony (Apr 15, 2003)

Did you soundproof the whole trunk? If not you have to. Sometimes you also have to go 2 or 3 layers to get rid of the rattle.


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## NissanTuner (Dec 1, 2002)

the primary rattle on b14's is the license plate being mounted directly onto the trunk wall. if you have a plate frame especially, ive dynamatter both the back of my plate and my plate frame, its a minimal change in the amount of vibration present, i even hotglued it together, and that worked for about a day until the hotglue vibrated loose. other than my plate frame, i dont have much rattle at all an i only dynamatted my trunk lid. I still have tons of Dynamat left for the trunk floors and walls though.


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## mirrortints (Aug 15, 2002)

I would say if you want to totally soundproof ANY part of the car, you should use dynamat, or equivalent(fatmaat peal n seal etc) but first get some of that "Great Stuff" from Lowe's or HD and spray that sh*t everywhere, then lay on the roll sheets. That will kill any noise, smells like sh*t but that sh*t works for real.


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## sethwas (Apr 30, 2002)

If you want 'soundproofing' you need to take out the seats, and take out the carpet and lay down some material on the floor. Thats where majority of the noise comes from.
If you want 'anti-rattle' hunt down the specific spot where it is coming from, and tighten any bolts, fill holes with hardening foam, and lay down material. The key is to make the metal too heavy to vibrate.

Seth


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i used a whole dynamat bulk kit (36sq ft) in my trunk and i used another 44+ sq ft inside the car, the floor and the doors. I have only had a driver seat in my car for the last 5 days and i heard a HUGE differnce in road noise be cancelled out by the deadning


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

Chicago Tony said:


> *Did you soundproof the whole trunk? If not you have to. Sometimes you also have to go 2 or 3 layers to get rid of the rattle. *


R U NUTS!!!!!!! did u do 3 layes of dynomat in your trunk???


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## mirrortints (Aug 15, 2002)

If I wanted to waste $2-300 I'd put 2-3 layers also. Besides that, why would you use dynamat? The difference between dynamat and the other brands is basically the same as using a 4000 strand 0 ga and a 4500 strand 0 ga wire. If you do the spray foam and then put some peal n seal, you'll be set.


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i used tsunmi (spell check) for the inside..... i just wanted to use the dynomat for the trunk beside 36sq ft costed me 100 bucks


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## Token Moron (Mar 28, 2003)

that dynamat aint a joke, shit is expensive


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

after putting all my carpet and stuff back inside i heard a huge difference a lot less road noise


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## Chicago Tony (Apr 15, 2003)

I have seen quite a few cars with multiple layers of dynamat. It gets expensive but you get rid of the rattle.
Do you think the SPL guys out there are using one layer of Dynamat. Probably not!


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## superfro86 (May 15, 2002)

If you are running serious power like i hope to be doing by the end of summer (Alpine CDA 7815, Elemental Designs 9.1, 9.2, Adire Audio Koda 6.1 and a 12" Adire Audio Brahma in a 1.5 cu sealed box) you would need extra layers of sound deading. Buy why use dynammat? its the most expensive of the popular sounddeading materials and doesn't work at all better than the cheaper stuff and not even as well as brown bread.


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

Chicago Tony said:


> *
> Do you think the SPL guys out there are using one layer of Dynamat. Probably not! *


they are probally using some kind of spray on material first to get the parts you cant reach then dynamat or any other kind of sound damper.....oh ya and at 160 db plus u dont got windows.

i would say just for an "average" install one layer would be plenty


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## Sethticlees (May 30, 2002)

I read an article about a SQ guy who put 9 layers of Dynamat on each door. Wound up equaling out to about 100lbs of added weight just in the doors alone.

I went 2 layers fatmat in each door and was good. Went back later and added a 3rd layer...it's perfect now!

One layer can make a huge difference guys. It might have something to do with that theory: sound waves increase/decrease exponentially.

Now I could only imagine 9 layers! WOW!


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## ccroaddog (Jun 20, 2002)

i can see doing 2 or 3 layers but nine????? that is a little much i think


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## wickedsr20 (Aug 8, 2002)

It's all in the spirit of competition, especially in SQ where you do what you have to to make sure that your car does not resonate at all at any frequency. Must sound as dead as possible in the car first and then you worry about the actual install. Also remember that these installs are anything but cheap, so if you've got a $25k install, an extra $600-$1000 in sound dampening is mandatory. That's why I got out of competition, just got too damn expensive.


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## Psch91 (May 18, 2002)

Extreme SPL vehicles actually use cement and steel in their cars. Its like a damn tank just about.


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## dante81_98 (Jun 14, 2002)

wickedsr20 said:


> *Also remember that these installs are anything but cheap, so if you've got a $25k install, an extra $600-$1000 in sound dampening is mandatory. That's why I got out of competition, just got too damn expensive.  *


AMEN


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