# Problem! motor turns but doesn't start



## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

Well I took my car down to wally world to buy some stuff to make 'er purty...wax...etc.

ANY WAY I got back out and turned the key, motor turns over...and over...and over but no crank. I notice the temp, it's still in the mid range (I shop quickly), the gas is halfway (I had gotten gas like 2-3 days ago) and battery ain't dead cause it turns over really well.

_*Clicking noise_valve train*_
Side note...about 1-2 weeks prior my car began to make this clicking sound...I assumed it to be something in the valve-train...buddy of mine thinks it's a lifter...but 240's don't have hydrolic lifters eh? Well it makes the sound so I've been taking it easy till I decide what to do (new motor...rebuild this one) but that's a different story

*To skip the step by step of me testing shit...scroll down to where ALL the text is in bold
The headings to sections are bold and italic*

I haven't noticed a loss of power...a slight hesitation but it's had that since I bought it.

_*Ignition coil test_spark plugs*_
My first thought was no spark, I checked ALL my fuses...the fuel pump fuse is A OK. Next I took off the valve cover...hey...clicking...maybe stuck valve. All the valves were in up position...nice amount of oil there too, not messy oil, but good amount. Chain looked ok, course I couldn't see if it was outta time..but the motor ran fine on the way there and it didn't "look" loose. 
_
*All electrical connections*_
So then I went haywire and checked all my electrical connections for outta limits resistance...non of them read infinite res. or a large number of any kind...course I don't know the factory specs but everything "seemed" in spec.

SO I bought a 15 speed bike and rode my ass home...hell I ain't walking...I did that before and hell...2hrs walking is NOT fun...thanks everyone in WACO FOR NOT HELPING ME..assholes...

ANY WAY...NExt day me and a buddy of mine went out there. We checked the rotor, it turns, checked for spark coming from the coill to dist, OK, spark going to plugs, OK (even that bad wire had good spark). So we ruled out it not having a spark and I ruled out bad fuse and stuck valve.

_*spark ok..fuel test/issues...*_
So it's got spark and it's can breath...FUEL. I bought a new fuel filter (the one I bought from wally was MUCH bigger than the old one...I think the guy who had this thing put the wrong one on...the old one didn't fit in the holder...new one fits GREAT) When I unplugged it gas went everywhere from bottom hose and top hose...good thing.

I put the new one on...turned motor over...no start...dissconnected top hose...NO GAS CAME OUT! WTF. I blew in the old filter (now I smell gas all the time...hmmm) and both ways I could blow so the filter was..well...sorta ok. we then used the multimeter and checked for voltage drop at the pump.

I disconnected it and read in order and in volts from top left plug hole
0 12.6 7.3
_ .03 0

when I turned the key on the 12.6 dropped to like 10 and there was an all around drop in voltage...(the starter drew power duh??)

Then we PLUGGED IT IN...and got the SAME readings...


*BIREF SYNAPSOS
OK so here's a runby...
fuses OK
relays OK
sparkplugs sparking OK
Have gas OK
Battery 12+ volts OK
fuel getting to motor NO
fuel pump not sure

KEY QUESTIONS

1. Is the 240's fuel pump audible while it is working? I know with trucks (f150's and chevys) you can hear the motor whining while it works...I thought I heard mine one day...I don't hear it anymore...and I'm usually in the car while it is running not at it's ass end. If so then mine isn't making sound.

2. How can I test my 240's fuel pump in the car...can I? I have tested the plug leading to it and the pump circuit IS getting power..over 12 volts. 

3. I haven't checked the return line yet nor have I checked the full fuel feed line from the pump to the fuel rail for restriction, but I haven't ruled out the pump itself.

PLEASE someone help me...I need to know how or the best way of testing the pump, I don't mind taking it out to test it but if any one can help I'de appreciate it.*

I hope I gave/did enought diagnosis to help you help me.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

well get some to open the trunk and stay put while you tunr on the switch (not the car) and ask the dude if he heard a noise back there, tell him not to be stupid and pay attention, thats whay i did today and mine was working but maybe dirty or too fucked


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## joerc240sx (Jan 19, 2003)

Sounds like the pump is out, it should make a noise when turned on. i just replaced mine 3-4 weeks ago, starter and fuel pump went out at the same time. thank goodness i had a fuel pump already and easy access to a used starter. If the fule line isnt presurising after you turn the key to on, and there is no bad fuse or relay and you see power at the pump, then the pump is dead. good thing its easy to replace that pump. took me about 20 min.


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## joerc240sx (Jan 19, 2003)

just look for the walbro 255lph pump. i picked mine up at srswap.com for like 110, but i am sure you could get on ebay for less.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

No fuel = no fuel, bad pump or disconnected hose


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

ok...I'm gonna go ahead and check the lines just to be sure. 

Me and my buddy did that the other day...I stayed back there and put my ear RIGHT BY the pump with the cover off and he turned the key on...no sound...put it to start position...still no sound.

I think it is the pump, thanks for the link and I'll update y'all on the problem...

**EDIT FROM HERE DOWN*
lph=liters per hour

KEM EFP8235 ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP $79.66 
Note: elect.

AIRTEX AUTO DIV	E8235	ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP discountautoparts $83.92 
Note: includes se listing carparts $115.43



carter p72193 in tank fuel pump $86.53


AC DELCO	EP464	FUEL PUMP $150.12
Note: 146 cid; ka24e;
sfi; does not include strainer. 
if none listed obtain from dealer 


Walbro 255 lph Hi Press Fuel Pump Kit, Nissan S13 $199.00 (srswap.com)


GCA314 pump filter assembly sale price 107.79 (fuel-pumps.net)

P530 255 LPH hi performance pump kit sale price 98.34 (fuel-pumps.net)


Bosch E3000-39020 $233.84	(www2.autopartsauthority.com)


airtex E8235 $91.60 (www.a-1injectors.com)


here's some pics from a site that was upgrading a stealth or something...they showed the differences in fuels pumps just some fyi...I'm not really thinking of putting in a different spec pump until I upgrade the engine 

www.geocities.com/sonsofwisdom/nismopump1.jpg
www.geocities.com/sonsofwisdom/boschpump.jpg
(stupid link...I hit enter in addy bar and it works)


So what do you think? I've alwasy accepted more money = better parts (well usually) should I shy away from O'reilly and autozone? I'm not going for bosch...maybe airtex or fuelpumps.net...whay y'all think?


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## schebs240 (Apr 13, 2004)

I don't see how people always seem to overlook the most obvios, take a friend shove him in the seat with the key get a hammer and smack that starter as he cranks and vroom car starts right up, problem solved.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

schebs240 said:


> ...smack that starter as he cranks and vroom car starts right up, problem solved.



There's nothing wrong with the starter...it is working fine. Hince the title of this thread... "motor TURNS but won't crank"


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

heavy throttle has just the pump for $119 walbro 255lph. i got mine from there.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

zlr101 said:


> heavy throttle has just the pump for $119 walbro 255lph. i got mine from there.


is ther a diff, between the stock one and the walboro?


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

the walbro one is littler smaller and i am sure higher output(lph), then stock.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

zlr101 said:


> the walbro one is littler smaller and i am sure higher output(lph), then stock.



i mean can you FEEL there is a difference? all ive heard about the walboro is that is good to have when swaping to SR or RB


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## zlr101 (Nov 17, 2003)

Loki said:


> i mean can you FEEL there is a difference? all ive heard about the walboro is that is good to have when swaping to SR or RB


my car felt quicker but if a stock fuel pump is not working at 100% then a replacement that is stock that is 100% it will run better no matter what.also felt like it ran smoother less hesitation. I also plan on next summer doing a swap so just useing what little $$ i have wisely.


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## Joel (Jun 11, 2003)

I take it you have checked the fuel pump fuse which is in the engine bay?
Also get a multimeter and check that the pump is actually getting power. It also needs a working ground.


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## schebs240 (Apr 13, 2004)

SonsofWisdom said:


> There's nothing wrong with the starter...it is working fine. Hince the title of this thread... "motor TURNS but won't crank"


Try it anyways, motors will turn because the starter will have enough strenght to turn the flywheel, but not enough to send it spinning. Worth trying.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

Joel said:


> I take it you have checked the fuel pump fuse which is in the engine bay?
> Also get a multimeter and check that the pump is actually getting power. It also needs a working ground.



Yeah I checked the engine bay...and just for grins the one's underneath the dash too. It's getting power and it's got good ground too. I priced a carquest (airtex brand) pump. It's $2 more to get it from the store but that's no biggy. I'm not looking for a performance one right now...just a stock one will do. But I've also gotta solve a battery drain problem on my other ride cause it needs a jump...I'm not gonna have two cars stuck down town and me riding a bike back home...no no no.  Gotta still check the lines first...just to be sure.


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## SonsofWisdom (Mar 29, 2004)

*?*

Thanks all for the help first off!

I installed the new fuel pump...after a few trial and errors (need new battery connectors too HA HA) turned on the key and BAM! FUEL PUMPING...out the side of my fuel hose...crap...bought new hose...

So I fixed the terminal connections, fixed the hose, AND YES...YES FINALLY THE MOTOR NOW RUNS....eh
on three cylinders...my car asked me..."what did the five fingers say to the face?"

SLAP! 

I already new the wires were shot and now I am replacing them and the plugs...everything else seems fine...need to double check my lifters and everything...she still needs work to get the ka24e running to full stock specs but DAMN she's home  WHOO HOO!

p.s....the fuel pump I got was an oem airtech pump...that's all I need for this motor any way...oem...course this means I can load up on the apc stuff..since I'm keeping her stock..HA HA... OEM APC RACING! HA HA...*snort OWe..>MY SIDES..>HA HA HA


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## cncampbell (Sep 4, 2005)

Dude just pull the line from the fuel filter, turn the key to run and see if it shoots out gas  If thats not the problem you have what I haven't fixed yet which would be a blown O ring in the fuel rail leaking gas past the in jectors causing it to flood. Another way to check this is to pull out an injector and see if it has alot of fuel below the injector node. Good luck on yours it's too damn cold to work on mine, guess I'll be strollin in the V8 for awhile!


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SonsofWisdom said:


> _KEY QUESTIONS_
> 
> 1. Is the 240's fuel pump audible while it is working? I know with trucks (f150's and chevys) you can hear the motor whining while it works...I thought I heard mine one day...I don't hear it anymore...and I'm usually in the car while it is running not at it's ass end. If so then mine isn't making sound.
> 
> ...


1 - The OEM fuel pump is very quiet.

2 & 3 - An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the fuel filter and insert a long length of spare hose into the top of the fuel filter with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.

The 89 SOHC motor uses hydraulic lifters. The clicking noise may be worn hydraulics.


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