# HELP!! 1987 Stanza cold start problem



## iowaheat (Jul 17, 2008)

Ok, need help on this one. Car barely idles and will even die sometimes when first started in the morning. Once the car has warmed up it runs fine. I have replaced the temp sensor, Tps, maf, newer distributor, checked for vacuum leaks, etc etc etc. If you attempt to drive the car before it is warm it will buck, sputter, and you have to feather the peddle to keep it going. It runs like the choke is on when not needed to be.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Sounds like a bad air regulator if it's only on cold starts. Refer to part code "22660M" on the part diagram linked below. The air regulator control an air port to assist in cold start up. There's a metal door inside controlled by a motor. Sometimes they fail. Don't be surprised if the rubber hoses are hard as concrete. If you replace it, get a new hose as the old one will probably break apart when you attempt to R&R the valve. 

Part Detail


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## iowaheat (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks SMJ999SMJ, Ill try that next and let ya know. Cross your fingers.


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## iowaheat (Jul 17, 2008)

Ok messing with the car this morning, started it up, it began to spit and sputter as usual. unplugged the rear coil wire while running with no change. Plugged it back in and unplugged the front one. Car seemed to run fine... Is this a symptom of a bad coil?


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## wilburk (Dec 29, 2012)

If it runs fine when warmed up, probably not a bad coil. Coil creates spark, so unplugging it would affect idle/running. Might be good to visually inspect your coils for cracks, etc.


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## hamburglar (Oct 17, 2014)

I have this exact same problem, did you ever fix it? There are many possibilities of what could be causing the problem, I was going to try a new coolant sensor since mine will idle in the cold...guessing the IACV isn't the culprit, although it doesn't hurt to clean it.


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## iowaheat (Jul 17, 2008)

Yes, when I replaced the dizzy I was given the wrong one. Evidently there was at least 2 distributors for that year. I put the correct one in and problem solved.


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## hamburglar (Oct 17, 2014)

Thanks for the response. I changed the coolant sensor and thermostat today which seemed to help but it still stumbles a bit when cold. For the distributor did you replace the distributor, distributor cap and distributor rotor? Let me know,
Thanks. Cole


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## hamburglar (Oct 17, 2014)

Now i'm being picky...happen to have part numbers for the rotor, distributor or cap depending on what you ended up replacing?

Thanks again,
Cole


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Hamburgler... In order to know what parts your Stanza takes, one would need to know the make of your distributor (Hitachi or Mitsubishi), production date and if it was or was not a Stanza Wagon. The best way to identify your distributor is get the part number off of it. It will be stamped with a part number beginning with "22100-" followed by another five digits. The distributor cap and rotor would be specific to the distributor and the cap will usually have either a Hitachi or Mitsubishi emblem molded into it, if it's an OEM part. If you provide me with the needed info, I should be able to help you out.


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## hamburglar (Oct 17, 2014)

Okay. I noticed a cut off date on the distributor part numbers on auto zone. I'll put it off tonight and check the vin date as well. Thanks for the help. I'll post back once I install the parts


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

IMO, aftermarket remans are nothing but problems and aftermarket caps and rotors aren't of the same quality. I recommend genuine Nissan reman distributors, which come with the cap and rotor, but they are pricey. The run about $285 from an online dealer, like 1stAAANissanParts.com.


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## hamburglar (Oct 17, 2014)

Okay, thanks a ton for the help everyone! 

First I replaced the coolant sensor and thermostat. Didn't really solve the problem but my car did heat up to temperature much more quickly so it wasn't for nothing.

The car still stumbled when it was cold and I first started it. It felt like it had a fuel air mixture problem until it was fully warmed up. Then it ran fine.

My car was manufactured in 86 so I bought the distributor, rotor and cap for "up to 4/87" - Installed them, set the timing and the car runs like a mother f-ing champ! 

But haha, side note - 87 was a cool as year for this car, two coils, two plugs per cylinder, single cam, MIRRORS THAT FOLD FORWARD WHEN THEY ARE HIT so they don't break...makes so much sense! 

Again, thanks for the help...I hope none of the hoses in that engine bay break...what a vacuum nightmare in there! 

Cole


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

One of the worst jobs on that car is replacing the starter! Hope your's never goes bad!


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