# OIL FILTERS



## westex39 (May 30, 2006)

What is the Nissan part number for the Frontier 4.0L engine oil filter?

Thanks


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

back of the owners manual(i believe). i can give you an bosch number.


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

15208-9E000


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## westex39 (May 30, 2006)

Thanks for your response. 

Westex


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## shayner (Mar 14, 2006)

is there a good place to get nissan oil filters for the 4.0L engine in bulk? can't find any on ebay.

Better yet, what do you guys recommend/use for oil filters? I know most of you, if not all are not big Fram fans...


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## Captain_NISMO (May 31, 2006)

The best Filter out there is a Purolator PureONE Filter. Can't Remember the part number for the one that fits the 4.0L. I work at a company that did a lot of research on oil filter paper media and the Purolator filter paper media was the best for consumer automotive applications.

Captain_NISMO


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## Captain_NISMO (May 31, 2006)

Actually, FAM filters are one of the worst filters out there. I would pay the extra dollar or two for a real filter.


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## shayner (Mar 14, 2006)

Captain_NISMO said:


> The best Filter out there is a Purolator PureONE Filter. Can't Remember the part number for the one that fits the 4.0L. I work at a company that did a lot of research on oil filter paper media and the Purolator filter paper media was the best for consumer automotive applications.
> 
> Captain_NISMO


thanks for the suggestions!! I will get my free oil change first, but from then on, i wll be changing it. It is next to impossible to get the factory installed oil filter off anyway.


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## shayner (Mar 14, 2006)

Captain_NISMO said:


> Actually, FAM filters are one of the worst filters out there. I would pay the extra dollar or two for a real filter.


 FAM


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## Argo73 (Oct 31, 2005)

I got a 65-67mm filter wrench from Walmart-think it was made by Valvoline. It works great for the Nissan filters. The first one I took off w/ channel locks and had to crush the filter to get it off, so the wrench helps out a lot.


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## Markcuda (Apr 24, 2006)

What does "FAM" mean?:fluffy: :banana:


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## Captain_NISMO (May 31, 2006)

Sorry, I forgot the "R". 

FRAM filters are one of the worst filters out there.


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## Markcuda (Apr 24, 2006)

Untill I see proof that any other filter is better than the factory one, I'm sticking with what the truck came with=Nissan


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

purolators filter great but they restrict the flow.

I prefer the oem filter, its all I use. Shayner check courtesy parts for bulk deals.


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## shayner (Mar 14, 2006)

avenger said:


> purolators filter great but they restrict the flow.
> 
> I prefer the oem filter, its all I use. Shayner check courtesy parts for bulk deals.


 thanks!!


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## Bror Jace (Apr 26, 2003)

I like Wix #51356 as an aftermarket option for Nissan part number #15208-9E000. It's a nice piece ... a really well made unit: good springs, seals, etc ... Problem is they are pricey and hard to buy at a discount. NAPA sells them in two quality levels: Silver and Gold (drop the "5" off the Wix part number to get the NAPA part number).

I also like Hastings/Baldwin filters but for our applications they are a bit on the small side and I stopped trying to buy them via mail order a couple years ago.

I got a case of OEM filters from Courtesy Nissan about a year back. They ended up being about $4 each ... maybe another $0.50 for each crush washer.

Purolator filters are a pretty good piece, especially for the money. I shy away from the Pure Ones as there is a _possibility_ that the denser filter media may restrict oil flow in some applications. But they're regular "premium" filter is about the best mass-market filter you can find, especially considering the price. Advance Auto had them on sale for $2.50 each not too long ago.

I would buy a SuperTech filter before a Fram.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

Filters are more or less a matter of preference and/or brand loyalty. Quite a few studies are available on the Internet and in print, and they are seldom conclusive that one filter is clearly suprerior to another (although, they all tend to say that Fram filters are junk due to their cardboard filter media, as mentioned here). 

The truth is, all the brands that have been listed here will protect your engine well, whether the Nissan OEM, Purolator, Wix, etc.

My personal preference is the Mobil1 filter. Our part # is M1-110.

Regarding shayner's question about somewhere to buy the OEM filters at a good deal -- I agree with Bror Jace's post above. Buy them in bulk from www.mynissanparts.com (Courtesy) or www.yournissanparts.com and buy the crush washers with them. You'll save a lot of money over time.


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## Hackker (Aug 5, 2005)

Found out something interesting when I went to buy a filter for my Frontier recently - its the same as the wife's CR-V! Which is nice, since I bought a case of filter for it a few years back.


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## mainerunr (Jul 30, 2005)

Thats funny, I noticed the same thing when I went to buy a filter for the wife's Accord. Their crush washers are way different though. Still, makes it easy to buy bulk when you only need one model.


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## Johnny Nissan (Sep 13, 2005)

As usual, I put the cart before the horse - changed my oil this morning, THEN came here. 

I used the Mobil One 15K synth, and I also went with a FRAM extended mileage filter - did I just screw myself big time? 

While I was at it, I put in a a FRAM Air Hog 250K mile air filter - did they see me coming or what? 

So what should I expect? Am I hurting the engine, or just not doing the optimum? Is it possible to change the oil filter and not drain the oil first?

Thanks:
JN


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

fram is fine. i used fram in every car/truck and suv i have ever owned and have never had a problem. the only time i havent used fram is if i had to go to a different store because my normal store was closed. then i used a wix filter and never noticed a difference in oil color or oil pressure. do you really think fram would be as big as it is if they made a POS? its all personal preferance.


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## scuba91ta (Aug 19, 2005)

Fram isn't that big... their stuff is cheap which is why it sells... 

OEM is best, but if your looking for a better performing filter, napa golds, and wix filters are amoung the best out there... You won't ever see me use a purolator or fram filter on even any lawnmower... they are junk.


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## westex39 (May 30, 2006)

Just changed oil and filter for the first time. (596 miles) Factory filter was a Nissan 15208-31U01. I cut it open and it had cardboard end caps. The center tube was metal. It looked well constructed. All the pleates were evenly spaced. I don't understand all the concern about the cardboard end caps. I had quite a bit of metal flakes trapped in the media. But not anymore than I've seen in other new engines.

I don't see why the price is so high for this filter. It cost $7.06 at the dealer including tax.

I want to use the Nissan filter because if I have an engine failure due to filter malfunction I won't have to go through some other filter company trying to get my engine replaced due to their filter being at fault. I feel sure Nissan would deny warranty claim an defer it to the filter manufacture for cost of repair. Just something to think about.


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

scuba91ta said:


> they are junk.


that is your opinion and you are allowed to think that but untill you can prove other wise please make sure that you state that it is just your opinion.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

Mylt1 said:


> that is your opinion and you are allowed to think that but untill you can prove other wise please make sure that you state that it is just your opinion.


http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html

Every other filter study I've ever seen says just about the same thing...


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## scuba91ta (Aug 19, 2005)

Thanks bully fan, two of those links were ones i was going to post until i saw you put them up...

It's simply not my opinion - it's fact...


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

you are WRONG. opinion is exactualy what each of them is. all they did was cut the filters open. they did no other test. even at the top of the pages they say "This page now contains my *personal* slant on oil filters." and things like "Also, I am not an oil filter expert," and then "These pages are NOT to be taken as gospel." i hate to tell you guys but you are delusional. ALL OIL FILTER MUST PASS ASE CERTIFACTION. which means that they conform to the automakers specifications. the pages listed are just people cutting open filters and telling you whats inside. thats not really a test. no one with any scientific know how would just post that crap. they would do flow test as well as partical removal test. so you guys keep believing what you read on the internet cause it must be true, right? i meant its on the internet.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

As is yours? L0L If people are wrong, well, then they are wrong... Learn from it. All I will say about oil filters is I choose to use OEM. Make your own decisions and accept it with respect to those whose differ. Myself included. $7.50 seems kind of high, ask about bulk pricing.


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## scuba91ta (Aug 19, 2005)

Sorry to burst your bubble mylt, but it is NOT my opinion... i would post up the link to the site with a professonal study done, but the site is down and has been down for some time now...

As an engine builder, i can tell you there are huge differences in filters, regardless of the standard. First off, as you likely read, there are two standards - one being an optional standard... How many engines have you seen apart? let alone built? Ever been to or participated in oil and filter studies? My shop has. 

Fact of the matter is, there is a huge difference in filters when you send oil out for analysis. I've seen several, and i mean several, purolator, fram, and other low cost filters have holes form in the paper filter, the bypass get stuck open or blown out, or the filter internally seperate. Of course most left the engine needing new bearings amoung other parts. 

Bottom line for the sake of not becoming an argue fest, stick with am oem filter, they will perform as the manf. wants them to. If you're in a performance application where high rpms and higher volume pumps are going to be used, you need a much better filter - one that will still flow the oil volume while still filtering down to a small partical size, and one that is made with high quality materials that wont seperate or break...


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

Mylt1 said:


> you are WRONG. opinion is exactualy what each of them is. all they did was cut the filters open. they did no other test. even at the top of the pages they say "This page now contains my *personal* slant on oil filters." and things like "Also, I am not an oil filter expert," and then "These pages are NOT to be taken as gospel." i hate to tell you guys but you are delusional. ALL OIL FILTER MUST PASS ASE CERTIFACTION. which means that they conform to the automakers specifications. the pages listed are just people cutting open filters and telling you whats inside. thats not really a test. no one with any scientific know how would just post that crap. they would do flow test as well as partical removal test. so you guys keep believing what you read on the internet cause it must be true, right? i meant its on the internet.


no, you are WRONG. The cut open tests show such atrocities as "Cardboard endcaps" and flimsy anti-drain back and springs. 

ASE? you mean SAE. And sure, they have to test, but they do it in house and the results are known to be biased.

They conform to specs? Whoop de doo, so they make the bare minimums.... i like to use products which strive for more than just the lower rung requirements...

Flow tests have been done, and I have seen them, but I am having trouble locating them... They showed the fram did not flow well, and would jump into bypass too easily.



try reading bobistheoilguy.com, and research fram...


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## Johnny Nissan (Sep 13, 2005)

I'm glad my questions could get you all so fired up! Nothin' like blood rushing to make you want to go put your Fronty's pedal to the metal!

So I guess this is my last Fram (why take the chance) - now can anyone answer whether or not I can change out just the filter without draining the oil?

Thanks:
JN


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

Johnny Nissan said:


> I'm glad my questions could get you all so fired up! Nothin' like blood rushing to make you want to go put your Fronty's pedal to the metal!
> 
> So I guess this is my last Fram (why take the chance) - now can anyone answer whether or not I can change out just the filter without draining the oil?
> 
> ...


yeah, you'll lose a little bit of oil of course so top off as needed


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

scuba91ta said:


> Sorry to burst your bubble mylt, but it is NOT my opinion...


no. its the opinion of the web page owners. they even say its there opinion.



scuba91ta said:


> How many engines have you seen apart? let alone built?


lets see, probably helped build 15-18 puls completly built 4 for my personal cars.




scuba91ta said:


> Bottom line for the sake of not becoming an argue fest, stick with am oem filter, they will perform as the manf. wants them to.


so you want to use the cheapest made filter the OEM can afford but you complain about fram? because in case you didnt know OEM's buy the cheapest priced parts to keep cost down. i would much rater buy a better filter than an OEM one.


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

avenger said:


> no, you are WRONG. The cut open tests show such atrocities as "Cardboard endcaps" and flimsy anti-drain back and springs.


which they have been using for years and with very few problems compaired to the number they sell.



avenger said:


> They conform to specs? Whoop de doo, so they make the bare minimums.... i like to use products which strive for more than just the lower rung requirements...


and you think the OEM filters do any better than the bare min?



avenger said:


> Flow tests have been done, and I have seen them, but I am having trouble locating them... They showed the fram did not flow well, and would jump into bypass too easily.


hearsay untill proven by a link or other proof.




avenger said:


> try reading bobistheoilguy.com, and research fram...


have read his pages and he has been disproven several times.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

Let's face it guys. We're all wrong and all the studies are wrong. Fram obviously makes wonderful high-quality filters, and we might as well wise up and buy ourselves an "orange can of doom" for our next oil change.

Mylt1 - I have yet to see you post any links to reputable studies showing Fram's low-cost filters to be a high-quality product. I did find one Web site that highly recommends them, though -- http://www.fram.com


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

are you just upset because you buy fram and now your world is shattered?


Mylt1 said:


> which they have been using for years and with very few problems compaired to the number they sell.


yeah but how do you know they're not just going into bypass or filtering a lot less than a higher quality filter, and getting away with it because most engines can take it. Also, since fram sells so many filters a 3% failure rate or similar would not look as bad a s a similar failure rate to a lower volume manufacturer.



Mylt1 said:


> and you think the OEM filters do any better than the bare min?


many are... Honda non-fram oem's are high quality, as are the 15208 9E000 nissans. you think different? Look at the construction of the nissan filter vs the fram



Mylt1 said:


> hearsay untill proven by a link or other proof.


you know that you've given no proof that fram is a quality filter, other than "well they're big and been around and stuff" Guess what, so is mcdonalds. doesn't mean it's best for you

as for the link, it's hard to track down. the bitog pressure tests are around but they're hard to read as the FRAM has the lowest pressure drop because all suspect it has went into bypass... but there is no way to tell in the bench setup



Mylt1 said:


> have read his pages and he has been disproven several times.


I am referring to the forums on his site. read them.


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

my proof is me and the people i know. quick rundown. 92 dodge dakota 318 ran nothing but fram had 150k miles on it when it was totaled in an accident. 87 monte carlo SS 305 140k miles when i sold it. 94 camaro Z28 150k miles when i sold it still running today and the ne owner still drags it as i did. 01 gmc jimmy 4.3 vortec 88k miles when i traded it for my nissan 0 problems and had some work done that require the oil pan to be removed clean as a whissle. 92 chevy blazer 180k miles when traded in 04 fo*d explorer 40k right now 0 problems. 98 fo*d ranger 130k miles when sold still running very strong 00 jeep grand cherokee 73k miles 0 problems. 89 jeep cherokee 130k miles 0 problems. in all of these cars, trucks, and suv's the oil always came out looking decent(except a few times in the z28 after a couple of weeks racing it was a little burnt.) thats also not including the things my family has owned before i had a DL. there were others but that list is the higher mile vech's. this also doesnt include friends that also run fram. so you can sit down and figure out how many oil changes that is and 97-99% of them were with fram filters. and every one of them ran as good as the day they were bought. i know of no one that had engine damage due to filter failure even when working at 3 different auto parts stores over 3 years. on a side note, the last oil change i did on both the frontier and my jeep i used bosch filters because autozone was the closest store and they had the bosch on sale. depending on how the oil looks i may stick with them but my other jeep and the explorer will remain in the frams as well as the frontier and my jeep pending the next oil change.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

My eyes! Paragraphs are our friends...
With all that mileage, you must be on a laptop? 
Glad to see what works for you. Thx


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

Dude, I don't think anyone's saying that using Fram filters will shred your engine. All we're saying is that just about all the independent research and comparison tests show that Fram filters ARE made of lower-quality materials than many of the industry-leading oil filters. That point isn't really debatable. Cardboard isn't as good a filter media as synthetic fiber media. Cardboard end caps aren't as durable as polypropylene or some of the other materials other manufacturers use. Cardboard may still work, but it isn't as high-quality.

My next-door neighbor in Baton Rouge has a brother that works for Allied Signal (now part of Honeywell), the maker of Fram filters. He told his brother that he uses Purolator PureONE filters and would never use a Fram filter. That's good enough for me.

Oh, and I wouldn't say much about bobistheoilguy if I were you unless you REALLY know what you're talking about. I met Robert at a Society of Tribologist and Lubrication Engineers conference a few years ago (I am a member), and he was a featured speaker. His reputation in the industry is IMPECCABLE, and I *CHALLENGE* you to show me where "he has been disproven several times."


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## avenger (Oct 7, 2005)

Mylt1 said:


> my proof is me and the people i know. quick rundown. 92 dodge dakota 318 ran nothing but fram had 150k miles on it when it was totaled in an accident. 87 monte carlo SS 305 140k miles when i sold it. 94 camaro Z28 150k miles when i sold it still running today and the ne owner still drags it as i did. 01 gmc jimmy 4.3 vortec 88k miles when i traded it for my nissan 0 problems and had some work done that require the oil pan to be removed clean as a whissle. 92 chevy blazer 180k miles when traded in 04 fo*d explorer 40k right now 0 problems. 98 fo*d ranger 130k miles when sold still running very strong 00 jeep grand cherokee 73k miles 0 problems. 89 jeep cherokee 130k miles 0 problems. in all of these cars, trucks, and suv's the oil always came out looking decent(except a few times in the z28 after a couple of weeks racing it was a little burnt.) thats also not including the things my family has owned before i had a DL. there were others but that list is the higher mile vech's. this also doesnt include friends that also run fram. so you can sit down and figure out how many oil changes that is and 97-99% of them were with fram filters. and every one of them ran as good as the day they were bought. i know of no one that had engine damage due to filter failure even when working at 3 different auto parts stores over 3 years. on a side note, the last oil change i did on both the frontier and my jeep i used bosch filters because autozone was the closest store and they had the bosch on sale. depending on how the oil looks i may stick with them but my other jeep and the explorer will remain in the frams as well as the frontier and my jeep pending the next oil change.


"Came out looking decent" is not as good as a UOA, and UOA's on the bitog forums tend to show fram filters filter like crap


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## Markcuda (Apr 24, 2006)

And you are going to tell all of us that you put all them miles on them cars and trucks?:fluffy: :fluffy:


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

never said i put all the miles on. but between all of them i have probably just over 200k miles. which is about average for me, give or take 20-25k miles a year.


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## msubullyfan (Jul 24, 2005)

Still waiting to hear what BITOG has been proven to be wrong about... Also still looking for independent testing that gives a good rating to a Fram filter.


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## Madmaxfl (Oct 22, 2005)

This is all very interesting reading. Comparing oil filters to Macdonalds or I have a friend who knew someone who said he heard that a certian filter caused problems, or was not quality or did not flow because of a test someone told me about. These are probably the same people that change thier oil every 3000 miles. I used Fram filters for 20 some years and never have experienced an engine problem related to oil, filters or any thing related to the same. I do not use Fram anymore because they put that black crap on it a few years ago and it flakes off and makes a mess. So I used Puroilator for some time and recently I started using Wal-mart brand. Talk about cheap at $2 a filter. interestingly it holds oil presure better than the nissan filter in my 300 zx when it sits for a week or so. That should give all you filter experts something to talk about. The bottom line is most any brand oil filters will do what it is suposed to do. Unless you are using synthitics and are looking at significant extended change intervals like 15,000 mile plus or you are racing it really does not matter. It is like what is better Nissan or Dodge, there is no way to qualfy the answer only opinions and they are much like a certian part of your anatomy, every one has one and most of them stink.

You are all falling into the marketing mind numming mush of the manufacturers. 

Now lets start talking about what oil is best.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

No filter expert here and I don't recall anyone else proclaiming to be, but damn near best filter for the 300ZX was the original OEM which has since been replaced by the 15208-55Y00, which is inferior. I suggest that you don't go cheap with the Z. Your turbos will thank you. NA's as well. As far as holding pressure better the stock gauges are not the most accurate, not to mention it seems it is normal for Nissan gauges to show fluctuations in pressure in relation to rpm due to the nature of their design.

I also did not care for the black grip crap Fram filters use. They did not fit the various cap wrenches I had used on older Fram filters, as well as being quite messy. I will say your "bottom line" opinion is yours and I can respect it as much as I disagree with it and the rest. The oil subject has been beaten to death and I will keep that to myself. Try using the Search here if you're wanting to stir the pot. Z


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## Mylt1 (May 10, 2006)

sorry its taking so long. there are 15 pages of threads. add that to the pages in each thread and useing dialup its taking some time. but so far i am just seeing the same thing. people complaing of the cardboard ends but not really anything else. they are complaining of them being cheaply made but no other proof. but i am still reading. also i think when people said bob was wrong im guessing they were talking about people in the forum. thats all i can figure. but another thing is coming up as well, people have been running fram for years with no problems then they read things on the internet and switched to another filter. with no other proof other than people saying fram was bad they switched and they even admit that. its amazing what people will do by just hearing something.


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## Madmaxfl (Oct 22, 2005)

Z_Rated said:


> No filter expert here and I don't recall anyone else proclaiming to be, but damn near best filter for the 300ZX was the original OEM which has since been replaced by the 15208-55Y00, which is inferior. I suggest that you don't go cheap with the Z. Your turbos will thank you. NA's as well. As far as holding pressure better the stock gauges are not the most accurate, not to mention it seems it is normal for Nissan gauges to show fluctuations in pressure in relation to rpm due to the nature of their design.
> 
> I also did not care for the black grip crap Fram filters use. They did not fit the various cap wrenches I had used on older Fram filters, as well as being quite messy. I will say your "bottom line" opinion is yours and I can respect it as much as I disagree with it and the rest. The oil subject has been beaten to death and I will keep that to myself. Try using the Search here if you're wanting to stir the pot. Z


When I refered to holding presure I miss spoke, I meant the filter will hold oil better when the car sits for a week or two. The Nissan filter would run down making the lifters a ltttle noisey until presure built up. With the Wal-Mart filter it will hold oil with no noise for at least two weeks. By the way I do run Mobile 1 in the Z it is an 85 and garage kept driven only on weekends or to shows. But in the hardbody with 200,000 miles I like Valvoline MAX, in the Sentra regular Valvoline and in the Dodge Caravan Mobile 1. I may go to Mobile 1 in the Sentra.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

I know what you mean about the noise, my Z's do the same. IMO you can't go wrong with Valvoline, but you should follow a strict regime. Maintenance is key and all too often overlooked. With a few of my Nissans I am able to run both the same OEM filter/wrench and oil weight which helps keep my inventories easier to control. Sounds like you might want to consider switching the Sentra over. BTW nice to meet a fellow enthusiast with a Z...

Driven!


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## Madmaxfl (Oct 22, 2005)

Z_Rated said:


> I know what you mean about the noise, my Z's do the same. IMO you can't go wrong with Valvoline, but you should follow a strict regime. Maintenance is key and all too often overlooked. With a few of my Nissans I am able to run both the same OEM filter/wrench and oil weight which helps keep my inventories easier to control. Sounds like you might want to consider switching the Sentra over. BTW nice to meet a fellow enthusiast with a Z...
> 
> Driven!


Yeah the Sentra is a 97 but only has 37,000 miles and I just replaced the front seal so maybe this is a good time. Interesting that the Sentra and Z filters are the same.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

If they are it will work out for you. For me it was my '91 D21 H/B and both my Z32's that now have the same filters... 55Y's


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