# 91 HB starting problems



## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

OK here goes:
I have a 91 Hardbody took it to school, everything was fine, went to lunch, fine, tried to start it and nothing but a single click. If I'm not mistaken the click is coming from ignition relay in the fuse panel. I left the truck, got a ride home, in the morning it started like no problem. I take the starter to the parts store they test it, it fails, I install a new starter. the car starts fine, I go to school, car wont start back up.
The battery seems to be fine, all electronics working. 
My question is could I have gotten a faulty starter, I've got a lifetime warranty, or is there a starter relay somewhere?

Update: 
I left the car hoping if I let it sit overnight it'll start again. I brought a new battery. But the idiot in me installed it backwards. a little smoke came from the connections on the (+) side, quickly disconnected the battery. The accesory fuse under the dash was blown replaced it. But now I get no lights(instruments, dome, heater)when I turn the key. But Headlights, fuel pump(i can hear it) still works. 

Did I fry the ecu? any insight on why it wasnt starting to begin with?
Thanks in advance


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## liftthattruck (Dec 8, 2006)

hey there is a blue box thing beside your battery or on the passager side.. it might be bad. get a new one they are like $20


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

Depending on model, there are two ignition relays above the fuse block under the dash. On my '91 manual transmission 4 cylinder I had to replace the interlock relay which is on the passenger side fender near the battery when I had similar symptoms. Again, depends on which model you. As far as the ECU, has the truck started since then? Kind of a crap-shoot of what and or if you fried anything. Suggest re-checking all fuses with a meter then go from there. 

Insight of why? Well, you did say the starter test failed right? Although, I'm thinking it was the interlock relay from my experience. Good Luck, Z


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

It's entirely possible that the replacement starter is bad also. I've seen new starters not work right out of the box. Tried cleaning the battery terminals and cables very well?


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

Z_Rated said:


> Depending on model, there are two ignition relays above the fuse block under the dash. On my '91 manual transmission 4 cylinder I had to replace the interlock relay which is on the passenger side fender near the battery when I had similar symptoms. Again, depends on which model you. As far as the ECU, has the truck started since then? Kind of a crap-shoot of what and or if you fried anything. Suggest re-checking all fuses with a meter then go from there.
> 
> Insight of why? Well, you did say the starter test failed right? Although, I'm thinking it was the interlock relay from my experience. Good Luck, Z


Thank you
My truck is a 91 automatic 4 cylinder
Which one is the interlock relay? Is it the one blue relay closer to the battery. kinda like this setup








should I go ahead and replace the blue relay next to the battery even though it doesnt say automatics have the interlock relay. 

My other question is related to installing the battery backward, are all the fuses located under the dash in the fuse panel? I know some cars have a seperate fuse panel under the hood. 
When I turn the ignition to ON I can hear the fuel pump. and when I turn to START I hear the same single click. but the instrument cluster stays dark and the accessories arent working like radio, dome, horn. 
Thank you all for your help


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

If you have an automatic then I would say no. It sounds like you have not started the truck since the battery incident? Have you checked fusible links, re-checked the fuses under the dash with a meter or at least tried to confirm they are good? You can also check the dome light bulb/socket with a meter to help isolate your problem and trace backwards.

Looks like you have access to the FSM (factory service manual), check it for the fusible links (page EL-5). Sounds like that's where the smoke came from. Also, the diagram you posted is for the V6, not the 4 cylinder and the locations of the relays are different. The 4 cylinder is listed as KA24E, page EL-91 on the lower right corner. 

Anyways, use a meter to verify power supply to fuse when key is on for the radio (lighter still work?). Dome light, horn and cluster should work with ignition off. If no power, there is a blue accessory relay above the fuse box under the dash. Of the three relays, should be the one in the middle, other two are ignition relays.

As stated above you can also have the replacement starter tested as well. Let us know what you find. Z


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

Thanks for your help
No, the car has not started since the battery switcheroo. I sorry for the confusion. I dont have access to the service manual. I found the image on about.com while researching my problem. I used it cause the relays are in the same position and mine. 

I'll check the bulb socket and see if I'm getting power there.
I've pulled each fuse seperately and looked to make sure the link was intact. After the smoke I seperated the fusible links and reconnected them. the one that I saw smoke from smelled particularly burnt, but the connection was good when I checked for continuity. 

Is there a way to test a relay? I pulled the relays in the fuse panel( there are only two, I can tell there is and empty slot between them, but from my recollection there has never been more than 2) and swapped them with similar relays from under the hood. but there was no change.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

You can test them. Look on the relays for the diagram for what each does when power is applied. Kind of tricky, but it can be done with a little thought. I know you said you looked at the fuses and since you have a meter with continuity capability I suggest you do the same for the fuses. Sometimes a fuse can "look" good. 

Another thing, you may have continuity with the fusible link, but it doesn't always mean it's still good enough. Keep that in mind, you may need a replacement. Z


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## liftthattruck (Dec 8, 2006)

could it be the ground?


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

Z_Rated said:


> Another thing, you may have continuity with the fusible link, but it doesn't always mean it's still good enough. Keep that in mind, you may need a replacement. Z


Thanks 
so I checked the fusible link a little closer and I found that the wire was broken. 
















My local parts store said they dont carry it. Should I try to repair this wire with a similar gauge solid core wire from the hardware store? I've heard of people replacing these fusible links with fuses. If I went this route, what amp fuse should I use?


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

Oh yeah the wires are green and black and the black one is burnt.


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## Z_Rated (Apr 29, 2006)

Cool, glad you found that after a closer inspection. Many times people overlook that same issue with fusible links. As far as what amp fuse to use, for reasons of not wanting to give you mis-information on the off chance that it was not the mishap with the battery as stated in your original post, I suggest you ask a trusted mechanic with experience with Nissans charging and electrical systems. See what I'm getting at?

Now, if you are sure the reversed hook up of the battery is the cause and there were no pre-existing issues or anything else was damaged resulting from the mishap, I'd start with a 20a with no accessories on and then (one at a time) turn systems on and off with the engine off. Systematically checking all systems individually and repeating with (again one at a time) the engine running. Idea is to incrementally increase the draw on the system using a controlled method. Use a pen and paper to note what combinations work until the 20a fuse blows or you can run the car with all needed systems on.

I still suggest you pay a professional to have the system checked out or at least research a lot more to make an educated decision as to which route you decide to go. Be careful, remove jewelry (rings especially) I have seen some crazy shit happen with car batteries. 

In short, get other opinions than my own. Again, Good Luck, Z


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

All right 
So I repaired the wire with the same gauge wire, come to find out the wire didnt have a solid core, the strands had melted together! With the new wire in place and the link installed my accessories are working! But I'm back to square one on the no start problem. 
My next step is to clean the battery connections, recheck the ground, and get the new starter tested. I'll keep posted. 
Thanks for your help


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## Tamonez (May 21, 2006)

Update

So I checked the ground and everything. Still no start.
I pulled the starter and tried the starter out of he car, at first it was stuck, then it spun. I put it back on the car this time I ran a wire from the ingition switch wire down on the starter to the positive battery, just in case. But the car started fine with the key. And its started fine, no more problems.

In conclusion: One day the car wouldn't start, it sat overnight, started right up. The next day it wouldnt start so I replaced the starter. It started fine the first 3 or 4 times after I replaced the starter, then it stopped working. I took the starter out, jumped it, it works. I put it back and all is fine. Maybe the new starter froze? 

Thanks for all your help.


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