# Rear Brake Replacement



## vash.t.s. (Feb 6, 2006)

Hi, i have a 1991 240sx se automatic it has abs.i recently replaced the front brakes and now its time to replace the rear. i know its different than the front but im not sure exactly what to do.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

The procedure is basically the same as the front brakes except when the caliper piston needs to be depressed, it's not pushed straight in but needs to be turned by a very large screwdriver. 

Turn clock-wise to depress in; counter-clock-wise to expand out.


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## vash.t.s. (Feb 6, 2006)

do i have to worry about anything with abs?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Nope, nothing to worry about.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> The procedure is basically the same as the front brakes except when the caliper piston needs to be depressed, it's not pushed straight in but needs to be turned by a very large screwdriver.
> 
> Turn clock-wise to depress in; counter-clock-wise to expand out.


does this go for the non abs 240s to?
and also do u know where i could get the screws that go in the rotor to hold it from moving it around cause mines missing both of them on the rear passenger side and rear driver side that might be one of my rattling solutions? thanx


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Turning the caliper piston applies to both ABS and Non-ABS. 

Get the rotor screws from a junk yard; you might also be able to get them from a Nissan dealer. The missing screws won't cause your rattling problem because when the wheels are tightened with the lug nuts, the rotor is held tight against the hub. The rattling may be caused by missing brake pad shims or broken pad retainer springs.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Turning the caliper piston applies to both ABS and Non-ABS.
> 
> Get the rotor screws from a junk yard; you might also be able to get them from a Nissan dealer. The missing screws won't cause your rattling problem because when the wheels are tightened with the lug nuts, the rotor is held tight against the hub. The rattling may be caused by missing brake pad shims or broken pad retainer springs.


got it i picket up some brake shims but i still need to get the retainer springs those are the ones that hold the pads rite at the top and bottom in the caliper rite 
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=LEE&mfrpartnumber=15455A&parttype=354&ptset=A
im going to replace my rear driver side caliper this weekend never done it before but ive been told its just a matter of taking it off and putting it back on...any tips i should know about repacing the caliper ??? thanx


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## Trippen (Feb 21, 2006)

Make sure you have a good solo bleeding kit...Or have a friend to help follow ALL the directions for bleeding the wheels not just the one you replaced...its a sequential event..Worse comes to worse pay a brake place 20 bucks to bleed them for ya


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## vash.t.s. (Feb 6, 2006)

is it possible to do them without bleeding the brake lines and using the old fluid?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

If you're just going to install new brake pads and recut the rotors, there is no need to bleed the hydraulic system. If you're going to replace any caliper or the master cylinder, the hydraulic system NEEDS to be bled. Also it's a very smart idea to put in new brake fluid at this time; the system will absorb moisture over time and rusting will occur.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> If you're just going to install new brake pads and recut the rotors, there is no need to bleed the hydraulic system. If you're going to replace any caliper or the master cylinder, the hydraulic system NEEDS to be bled. Also it's a very smart idea to put in new brake fluid at this time; the system will absorb moisture over time and rusting will occur.


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=LEE&mfrpartnumber=15455A&parttype=354&ptset=A
these are the pad retainer springs rite if not let me know what they look like and as for the bleeding the brakes i guess ill just pay the 20$ with my supplied brake fluid motul DOT 5.1 BRAKE FLUID been using it ever since i got my booster and master cylinder replaced like a year ago and i havent had any complaints thanx guys


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=LEE&mfrpartnumber=15455A&parttype=354&ptset=A
> these are the pad retainer springs rite if not let me know what they look like


Yep, that's them.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Yep, that's them.


guys what the torque spec for the 2 bolts that go threw the caliper to the mounting bracket???
thanx


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

22 - 31 Nm.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> 22 - 31 Nm.


also my e-brake needs to get adjusted how do i do that?
i saw a bolt where the e-brake cable goes connected on both calipers how do i know when its tight enough or when to stop if thats where u adjust thanx.....O also do u know the torque measure in foot pounds.
well i guess thats it rogoman thanx for the help preciate it.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

You sure are asking for a lot SIL! Just kidding.

22 - 31 Nm (16 - 23 Ft Lb).

The e-brake is adjusted at the brake handle on the center console. There's a small hole in the boot for this. After adjustment, 4 to 6 click up on the brake handle should lock the rear wheels.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> You sure are asking for a lot SIL! Just kidding.
> 
> 22 - 31 Nm (16 - 23 Ft Lb).
> 
> The e-brake is adjusted at the brake handle on the center console. There's a small hole in the boot for this. After adjustment, 4 to 6 click up on the brake handle should lock the rear wheels.


Man i cant believe what happend i torque everything down and when i got to the e-brake i think i tightend to much and it broke off,i can send a pick if u want?
im going to have to go to the the junk yard and i guess cut a certain portion off to hook up to the existing portion im gonna keep...any ideas on what i can use to hook up the cables........lol rogoman i thought thats was gonna be it man but look what happend thanx


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Very easy to fix. Get a cable from a junk yard car for the side that's broken. No hooking up of broken cable ends. Here's a picture:


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Very easy to fix. Get a cable from a junk yard car for the side that's broken. No hooking up of broken cable ends. Here's a picture:


thanx for all the help rogoman i thought i was done for a minute......the bolt in the parking brake is the only adjuster for the e-brake rite?.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

Yep, only one adjustment at the handle.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> Yep, only one adjustment at the handle.


any of these lubricants can be used when installing the pins that go in the mounting brakets rite or even on the wheel studs?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3287&mfrcode=PTX&mfrpartnumber=80078
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3249&mfrcode=CRC&mfrpartnumber=L61605037


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## surfer240sx (Dec 15, 2005)

on the subject of e brakes... when i pulled my e brake to park it stayed locked, even after i released it. had to "drive it out" smoke and all coming out the back brakes... wat would cause the brake to stay locked up even after i released it?


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

SIL-S15 said:


> any of these lubricants can be used when installing the pins that go in the mounting brakets rite or even on the wheel studs?
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3287&mfrcode=PTX&mfrpartnumber=80078
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3249&mfrcode=CRC&mfrpartnumber=L61605037


You can use either lubricant for the pins. For threads, i prefer to use an anti-sieze lub; especially good for the spark plug threads because of protecting the aluminum head threads.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

surfer240sx said:


> on the subject of e brakes... when i pulled my e brake to park it stayed locked, even after i released it. had to "drive it out" smoke and all coming out the back brakes... wat would cause the brake to stay locked up even after i released it?


If both rear brakes lock up, then you may have a problem with the hand brake lever or it's connecting cable. There's also the left and right cable that runs to each wheel which may be seized due to rust inside it's outer covering.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> You can use either lubricant for the pins. For threads, i prefer to use an anti-sieze lub; especially good for the spark plug threads because of protecting the aluminum head threads.


when bleeding the brakes does the cars igniton require being in the on position or does have to be totaly off thanx


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

SIL-S15 said:


> when bleeding the brakes does the cars igniton require being in the on position or does have to be totaly off thanx


never mind i did it already, thanx guys for all the help esspecially u rogoman thanx allot


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

SIL-S15 said:


> thanx for all the help rogoman i thought i was done for a minute......the bolt in the parking brake is the only adjuster for the e-brake rite?.


 hey whats up rogoman i got the e-brake with the cable i cut it to where the cables hook up together in the sqaure piece and im sitting here looking at the pic u got and i cant figure out how its going to mount to my car because if i cut it where it says with a chisel then its going to be all lose so i dunno if u have any ideas let me know thanx


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

What cable are you replacing? The front short one or one of the rear ones. If you're replacing any of the cables, there's no cutting of the cable; for the front cable, you may have to remove the riveted area that holds the cable to the front bracket as shown in the picture that I posted.


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## SIL-S15 (Apr 9, 2005)

rogoman said:


> What cable are you replacing? The front short one or one of the rear ones. If you're replacing any of the cables, there's no cutting of the cable; for the front cable, you may have to remove the riveted area that holds the cable to the front bracket as shown in the picture that I posted.


no never mind i got it,yea im replacing the front short one but i was trying to figure out how to remove the rear cables that came connected together to the front cable because thats where i cut when i was at the junk yard but i got it off they were just rusted thats why they didnt budge but im install it on my car t/m thanx hopefull i dont break this one lol


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