# New motor = PROBLEMS



## slideways240sx (Feb 19, 2005)

Well started up my fully rebuilt ka24de last night and am having a ton of problems, so lets list em off

Motor runs but rough as all get out, barely idles sounds liek its got about a .650 lift set of cams in it

Wont rev past 2500 rpm acts like it hittin the limiter jus like someone else posted with there ka24e motor. Distributer?

And most recently it wont even start, and everytime you try the motor flood out even if you not on or pumping the gass while your tryin to start it.


ANy help is greatly apperciated i want to get this thing on the road ASAP!!


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## 2lowpaco (Jan 17, 2005)

Im the one that just posted about the ka24e. My problem was the MAF sensor. It definitely stopped the 2500 rpm buck problem and also leaned up the starting of my car.


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## nian (Apr 29, 2005)

2lowpaco said:


> Im the one that just posted about the ka24e. My problem was the MAF sensor. It definitely stopped the 2500 rpm buck problem and also leaned up the starting of my car.


your mass air flow sensor will cause that. if you unplug it on one that works, you will see that you cant rev past 2500 rpms. and i believe that the air /fuel mixture will also be messed up, and will dump more fuel. did it have a bad idle? if it did you might want to check your oxygen sensor on your header


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## slideways240sx (Feb 19, 2005)

Cool that sounds exactly like what i have, running rich as hell, bad idle, floods, wont rev past 2500 we checked the computer and it threw a code 12? for the maf i belive is there anyway to check the maf to test if its good or not?


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## nian (Apr 29, 2005)

slideways240sx said:


> Cool that sounds exactly like what i have, running rich as hell, bad idle, floods, wont rev past 2500 we checked the computer and it threw a code 12? for the maf i belive is there anyway to check the maf to test if its good or not?


when you test a maf, you are suppost to unplug it and then try to rev it, but you cant do that because you cant rev past 2500 anyway. if you have a buddy with a 240, see if you cant switch them for a couple of seconds. if not check out a junk yard, or ebay. thats where you will find the cheapest one.


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## slideways240sx (Feb 19, 2005)

nian said:


> when you test a maf, you are suppost to unplug it and then try to rev it, but you cant do that because you cant rev past 2500 anyway. if you have a buddy with a 240, see if you cant switch them for a couple of seconds. if not check out a junk yard, or ebay. thats where you will find the cheapest one.


No swappin goin on here i got the only 240 ive ever seen in town lol, could it casue it to run so rich that you cant even start it? that it would flood the motor out everytime yuo try to start it.


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

slideways240sx said:


> No swappin goin on here i got the only 240 ive ever seen in town lol, could it casue it to run so rich that you cant even start it? that it would flood the motor out everytime yuo try to start it.


It's possible that you've got some leaking fuel injectors which can cause hard starting with an overly rich condition. Do an ECU code readout to see if there are any fault codes set.

To test the MAF, I've included this picture.


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## slideways240sx (Feb 19, 2005)

rogoman said:


> It's possible that you've got some leaking fuel injectors which can cause hard starting with an overly rich condition. Do an ECU code readout to see if there are any fault codes set.
> 
> To test the MAF, I've included this picture.


That could work but i cant even get it to start to warm it up anymore


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## nian (Apr 29, 2005)

slideways240sx said:


> That could work but i cant even get it to start to warm it up anymore


you need to check your oxygen sensor. that could cause it to act like that. mine did the same thing. my o sensor came unpluged, and the car started to run like crap. i pluged it back in and the car started geting worse to where it wouldnt even run, and smeeled really rich, and idled really bad. all i had to do was reset the computer and it ran great. so if you ran the car during the swap with out the o sensor pluged in, (or you might need a new one) reset the computer. but the car not reving past 2500 sounds like the maf. sounds like you might have a couple problems.


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

i have a similar problem.....but mine revs perfectly...i dont know if my MAF is bad , but if i have the idle at 650-700 it shakes alot, could be motor mounts i dont know, but i raised the idle at 1100 (yeah runs hella rich stoped) but it doesnt shake anymore, runs great.

you guys think i have a bad maf as well? i got an injen short ram


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## bridrive55 (Aug 26, 2004)

Loki said:


> i have a similar problem.....but mine revs perfectly...i dont know if my MAF is bad , but if i have the idle at 650-700 it shakes alot, could be motor mounts i dont know, but i raised the idle at 1100 (yeah runs hella rich stoped) but it doesnt shake anymore, runs great.
> 
> you guys think i have a bad maf as well? i got an injen short ram


First, check your plugs for foulness. Inspect the distributor components for carbon scoring. Then replace fuel filter. After this, if your car reads a 44, check for vacuum leaks. Your problem is probably just a little thing.


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## nian (Apr 29, 2005)

Loki said:


> i have a similar problem.....but mine revs perfectly...i dont know if my MAF is bad , but if i have the idle at 650-700 it shakes alot, could be motor mounts i dont know, but i raised the idle at 1100 (yeah runs hella rich stoped) but it doesnt shake anymore, runs great.
> 
> you guys think i have a bad maf as well? i got an injen short ram


i dont think so, it sounds like you need a good tune up, plugs, wires, fuel injection cleaning(professional job, not a bottle) distributor cap, and rotor, oil change and an oxygen sensor. you can do all that yourself except the injection cleaning. its on the easy side.


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## slideways240sx (Feb 19, 2005)

I got her runnin! ended up being the plug in the maf was screwd up and wasent connectiong, and it woudlent start casue the fuel pressure regulator was bad and it was jus dumpin mad fuel into the cylinders but now a have a few more problems.....

1. The #3 fuel injector is leaking bti i think ill jus but a o-ring kit for it

2, and what im concernd about is it idles real low, as soon as i come to a stop itll drop to about 500rpm or lower then catchitself and idle round 800 but it idles rough and sounds a lil off could that be the leakin injector or what else could i check?


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

bridrive55 said:


> First, check your plugs for foulness. Inspect the distributor components for carbon scoring. Then replace fuel filter. After this, if your car reads a 44, check for vacuum leaks. Your problem is probably just a little thing.



all that has been checked.......i was told it was the MAF, everything else is just fine, no probs


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## BrianNVdCustoms (Feb 18, 2005)

slideways240sx said:


> I got her runnin! ended up being the plug in the maf was screwd up and wasent connectiong, and it woudlent start casue the fuel pressure regulator was bad and it was jus dumpin mad fuel into the cylinders but now a have a few more problems.....
> 
> 1. The #3 fuel injector is leaking bti i think ill jus but a o-ring kit for it
> 
> 2, and what im concernd about is it idles real low, as soon as i come to a stop itll drop to about 500rpm or lower then catchitself and idle round 800 but it idles rough and sounds a lil off could that be the leakin injector or what else could i check?



could be either the injector or the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) beginning to go bad...doesn't compensate as quickly for idle fluctuation and base idle.

LOKI : your idle problem could be an ignition problem or a vacuum leak. either of those problems would could your condition. check plugs, plugs wires, rotor and cap and get a vacuum gauge for the car. a quick way to check for vacuum leaks is with some propane. spray it around places (not near the air filter). Assuming there are no leaks, the idle will be fine and steady. should there be a vacuum leak, the propane will be sucked into the engine and cause a lower or fluctuating idle. Best of luck!


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## Loki (Jan 12, 2004)

BrianNVdCustoms said:


> could be either the injector or the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) beginning to go bad...doesn't compensate as quickly for idle fluctuation and base idle.
> 
> LOKI : your idle problem could be an ignition problem or a vacuum leak. either of those problems would could your condition. check plugs, plugs wires, rotor and cap and get a vacuum gauge for the car. a quick way to check for vacuum leaks is with some propane. spray it around places (not near the air filter). Assuming there are no leaks, the idle will be fine and steady. should there be a vacuum leak, the propane will be sucked into the engine and cause a lower or fluctuating idle. Best of luck!



thanks i will try that, the car is perfectly fine, killing 2.4 Opel Astra's all the time, but i hate to see when im at a light on N having over a 1k rpm's!!!! DAMM GAS!!! and gas isnt cheap here in mexico!!! damm octane 93


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