# Whoops! Broken switch for ECU....



## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

Anyone else break the switch for the ECU? I was going through the modes and then the screwdriver kept slipping before I finished the last one. I have the one that is a split peg you twist(doing it blind under the stupid bench)...and half broke off. Anyone else do that and get past it??? Needle nose maybe? can you replace the box with another one from the same year and model? 

Whoops.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

I'm thinking, if you have a decent electronics guy anywhere close to you he will easily be able to replace that "POT" switch. Either that, or live with it... you might even be able to form a small plastic tool to super-glue to the remainder of the switch shaft. It shouldn't be such a huge problem as to call for replacement of the whole ECU.

-R


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

BAD NEWS! it's a huge frickin problem!! not sure why but have done nothing but check the codes and rev the engine to 2000rpm as suggested, the truck won't run above an idle. Stalls and sputters. So I checked, and it looked like the switch was half between a full turn when I broke it. So I found a way to turn the switch and with it turned either way it still wont run. so the thought of running the codes again seemed logical. But it won't run the codes now....can't go back, can't go forward. WTF?


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

AtomCzar said:


> BAD NEWS! it's a huge frickin problem!! not sure why but have done nothing but check the codes and rev the engine to 2000rpm as suggested, the truck won't run above an idle. Stalls and sputters. So I checked, and it looked like the switch was half between a full turn when I broke it. So I found a way to turn the switch and with it turned either way it still wont run. so the thought of running the codes again seemed logical. But it won't run the codes now....can't go back, can't go forward. WTF?


So was the truck running like this before the switch broke. You must have been trying to pull the codes up for some particular reason, right?

If so, you have two separate problems. Get the POT switch fixed, pull the codes, then address the engine problem.

-R


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

I was concerned about my fuel consumption, a person on here previously advised to check codes first, thats why I was checking them. otherwise truck ran ok. Now it sputters, chugs and stalls, wont drive around the block without trouble. Checking the codes is the only thing I did between the time it ran well and the time it ran like snot. I'm left with the impression that I messed up the ECU somehow by merely trying to read codes.

Now it will not pull codes. Only gives me solid red on the ECU...


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

Now it sounds like you are going to have to try another ECU, or send your off and have it fixed. There still may be other problems with your truck, but you are going to need to know you have a good, working ECU on board before you can diagnose any further.

-R


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

i have those ecms for sale..
pm me if interested...


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

Hmmm. and now the twist is that it would run almost without issue. If I run it hard, if chokes at about 4500 rpm. almost like a rev limiter, it will cut out and kick-in back and forth quickly...?

NVM! crap!


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

AtomCzar said:


> Hmmm. and now the twist is that it would run almost without issue. If I run it hard, if chokes at about 4500 rpm. almost like a rev limiter, it will cut out and kick-in back and forth quickly...?
> 
> NVM! crap!


Those are the symptoms it's had since the switch was broken, and it ran fine before that?

-R


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

yes. I wonder if my timing chain tensioners are shot...I'm about to search the forum to see what the symptoms of that are. The truck will drive, but it still chugs and the rpms shoot up and down when it's chugging. but it's inconsistent.


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

SERIOUSLY?? I got a suggestion to get the half switch out....so take out the bench, unbolt the ECU, take off the backing plate and shake out the broken piece...and now it ran with no issue.(yet)


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## jdg (Aug 27, 2009)

Nice...
I'm guessing the chunk of switch is completely plastic so there ain't no way it was shorting out anything?
I wonder if you might've knocked the connector loose initially, and the act of pulling the ECU and putting it back in reseated the connector for you...


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

jdg said:


> Nice...
> I'm guessing the chunk of switch is completely plastic so there ain't no way it was shorting out anything?
> I wonder if you might've knocked the connector loose initially, and the act of pulling the ECU and putting it back in reseated the connector for you...




Exactly!

-R


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## AtomCzar (Dec 28, 2010)

The chunk is aluminum, or another soft metal(have it on the dash now)...all the shaking and banging I did to get it out of the ecu would have only made a loose connection worse. I dunno. but it's still running just as well as before.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

AtomCzar said:


> The chunk is aluminum, or another soft metal(have it on the dash now)...all the shaking and banging I did to get it out of the ecu would have only made a loose connection worse. I dunno. but it's still running just as well as before.


I think you probably fixed the problem. That small chunk of metal laying somewhere on the circuit board most likely had a circuit shorted. Don't mess with the truck anymore if it's running okay. 

-R


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