# Got rear ended; things don´t work



## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

Hello, I just had hit from behind today, it was not hard, but the wheel cover doesn´t fit anymore, I always have the "open door sign" on, even with the back door closed, and the lights that used to blink with the remote door opener don´t do it anymore...any comments. ohh, forgot, my Exyy is only 31 days old 2.5 qr25


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Very sorry to hear about the bump, old chap. 

It sounds like the sheet metal behind the rear bumper may have taken a hit. You may be able to assess the damage more clearly by removing the styrofoam tyre cover and spare wheel and examining the site from inside the spare wheel well.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

its not unusual for there to be little external signs of damage, but the floor could have rippled. Take it to ya nearest bodyshop and get it inspected.


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

I checked and you are right that metal was pushed forward, right now I´m on the process of being screwed by the insurance company, now they are pushing around the body shop, so the cost of repairs stays under the deductible, and I have to pay for it, even being innocent


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## flynn (Jun 23, 2006)

That's lousy luck. Someone put a small dent in my bumper when it was just a couple of weeks old that had me hopping mad even though it just pushed out.  (Here) New cars are a magnet for crummy drivers.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

jaime said:


> I checked and you are right that metal was pushed forward, right now I´m on the process of being screwed by the insurance company, now they are pushing around the body shop, so the cost of repairs stays under the deductible, and I have to pay for it, even being innocent


Bummer. It sounds like you didn't get the name of the party that rear-ended you - he or she is liable.

If the metal wasn't displaced by more than a few millimeters and there is no rippling, and you're confident of a little DIY metalwork, maybe you could try to push out the dent with some blocks of soft wood and a bottle or scissor jack? 

After all any repairs here would be invisible if you took care not to mar the paint.

It's a bit ghetto and you'll need some trial and error: 

1) Spread the load at the far end of the spare wheel well with a thick and wide piece of pine wood.

2) Gang up several smaller pieces to hold the scissor or bottle jack in place. 

3) Position another piece of wood around half the width of the piece at the base of the jack and slowly "push" the metal out by 'jacking' the panel into its original shape.

The bodyshop is likely to use a similar method, or even re-weld a new panel (so they make some money in the process?). But some elbow grease and about an hour of driveway time may yield surprisingly good results.

(Ask Flynn. ;-) )


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

Gonna try to do that, a little afraid to screw things up worse lol
thanks for the tip


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

I was wondering, if the scissor jack pushes from one end of the spare wheel well to the one that was trusted bye the hit from behind; what are the possibilities of this opperation to push the forward part of the wheel well more forward, instead of pushing back the part I am trying to fix... just a thought


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

The key here is PRESSURE. Exude more pressure on the point that needs to be pushed out than the base from which you are exerting pressure (the far end of the wheel well) and you should be okay. Just try to spread the load at this end as much as you can.

You'd need to do this very gently, very slowly, and by very little increments until the door shuts perfectly again. Do NOT overdo it.

You should only undertake this if you're comfortable with the idea. If in doubt, let the pros handle it.

Maybe you could post a pic of the damaged area..?


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## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

Jaime - I can just imagine how you must be feeling about all this...

Anyhow, you might consider adding thick hard rubber inbetween the wooden plank and that part of the body where you want to spread the load evenly and prevent slipping (especially if the body surface is curved). Other points to remember about any body area being used to support a pushing device, are the following:
If possible, select an area where sheetmetal will be stressed in the axial or aligned direction - the sheetmetal is much weaker when loaded in bending. Similarly, curved sheetmetal is considerably stronger than a perfect flat area. Look for sheetmetal with bracing behind.

Depending on the nature of the damage, you might have to try similar operation(s) in other area(s). Or, in some area(s) you might have to pull rather than push. Be aware that curved panels might act stiff up to a point (loaded in compression) whereafter it may suddenly pop through..., and you might have to deform metal slightly beyond the neutral point to allow for some springback.

I agree with Leongster - do not carry on if you have doubts.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Good point GFB.

Jaime assuming the point of impact is on or around the mid point of the bumper, hopefully this crude diagram may help.

(It's been drafted from memory though, so please check if the sheet metal is similar to what's been illustrated here before going ahead.)

Just remember that the Xy uses a lot of high tensile steel in its bodywork and this type of metal has a tendency to "pop"or "spring" - as GFB pointed out. Proceed slowly and carefully if you decide to go ahead.


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

All these tips are great guys, but Jaime, would you want to fix a brand new car yourself and drive around with a half fixed job?? I know I wouldn't no matter how much I have to pay for it. I reversed into a metal pole after one week of buying my brand new exy and paid $900 to have it fixed properly (this included getting a brand new rear bumper) but at least when I got my car, it looked brand new again. Tough luck with the insurance, but I suggest you reach an agreement with the body repairs shop and get it done professionally. You're only assessing the damage as you can see it, the guy who does the repair might look elsewhere to see if further damage was caused (and you might miss it)

I'm surprised you didn't exchange details with the guy that rear-ended you, as he/she should be the one paying for all this. I couldn't force the metal pole to pay a cent towards my repairs LOL  (now I have reverse sensors). hehehehe

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles and I know EXACTLY how it feels seeing a brand new car damaged. I've been there too, but when you'll see it fixed and shiny again, you will just forget it happened


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## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

I basically agree with your sentiments, Jalal! But, it depends on circumstances and how severe the damage is, etc. I guess one could see my contribution either as tips or as showing out various things which complicate the repair job.

Sometimes, if something relative easy has to be done, I prefer doing it myself; - no inconvenience being without transport, and nowadays it's not always easy to find people proud in what they do, etc.

Would help a lot if we could see a pic of the damage. At least we both warned Jaime to consider carefully.
NB: Just came to mind - you're likely to forfeit your warranty by repairing it yourselves...

Cheers


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Jaime, 

I had a better look at the XY's rear sheetmetal a while ago and I think you need to ignore any of the suggestions I made earlier.

The rear panel consists of 2 sections - an inner and an outer section both welded into a box section. As it involves a structural member, and not simply a panel, you cannot "push" this out as I'd hoped earlier on.


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks Jalal; well I did exchange details with the guy and he happens to be a patient at the dental office I work (I`m a dentist) so imagine when I will be getting the money from him, considering ha already has a debt standing from dental services, lol. I believe I will have the work done by the shop, they charge $380.00 for workm, and the new bumper is $255.00 at the dealers. It would be interesting to try the DIY repair prior to sending it to the shop, they will fix it anyway jaja


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks anyway Leongster, I already have the quote from the shop, so I might play around before taking it to the shop, and then tell you guys about it


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

jaime said:


> Thanks Jalal; well I did exchange details with the guy and he happens to be a patient at the dental office I work (I`m a dentist) so imagine when I will be getting the money from him, considering ha already has a debt standing from dental services, lol.


The best time to ask for money is when he is sitting in the chair with his mouth open and you holding that drill. hahahahahaha

Good luck mate. Your exy will be brand new again in no time.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

aussietrail said:


> The best time to ask for money is when he is sitting in the chair with his mouth open and you holding that drill. hahahahahaha
> 
> Good luck mate. Your exy will be brand new again in no time.


Jamie, you're hearing this from Jalal and myself now - the fix is pretty straightforward for a bodyshop with the right gear - they'll either weld a temporary row of studs to the metal and "pull" it back into shape, or spot weld a new panel in place and it'll be good as new.

Amusing - about the guy turning out to be a patient of yours. (Maybe your EX wants revenge.)


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## jaime (Jan 21, 2007)

Thanks guys, I´m scheduling the repair to be done by the shop this week, today I washed the X and that was panful when I got to the rear; about the guy, he has an an appointment coming, guess I might find some fictionan cavities and give him a couple of extra shots of anesthesia, just kidding, turns out he is a nice guy and will pay for the repairs


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Good stuff Jaime. I would be a nice guy too if I knew I have to come and visit you after a while in the office. hehehehe


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

"And the dentist from Panama and his Xtrail lived happily every after...."


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