# New head, timing belt... No start. Help!!



## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

Heres the short version:

Head gasket blew a few weeks ago. Since that I've :
Got a new head, timing kit, new distributer, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, and everything else that goes with the Work described. 


I went to do the initial start And got what sounded like a Normal turn over but no start. 
I re-checked that the timing was right by noticing that the number 1 piston was on compression stroke when the dist. Was pointed at #1 plug. 
Im getting spark from #1 and the smell of fuel.

It sounds like it should start

I lost :wtf:

Any ideas? - I may have left some things out but its late and I've had a long day, any questions feel free to ask.

Thanks in advance -
Ryan


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

btw;1990 KA24E.


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Without a doubt it sounds like a timing issue....if you have fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time)........it should run.....

Did you align up the marks on the oil pump shaft with the distrubuter shaft? The two marks need to be aligned ......


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Did you line up the mark on the end of the oil pump shaft with the mark on the distributer shaft?.....There is a "silver" link on the timing chain.....is it lined up correctly on the cam gear?.....sounds like a timing issue....


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

The oil pump and dist. shaft were aligned via the marks. Also confirmed by getting spark during compression stroke right? The way the pump and dist. are cut and placed together they would have to be aligned correctly if im getting spark from #1 on the compression stroke of #1.

The mark on the cam gear im going to double check today, but I had previously lined it up with the mark on the head itself. The mark pointing up at the arrow. 

I dont know about a "sliver mark" on the chain? I replaced the chain and didnt notice any such mark..... If everything else is lined up, where the actual chain itself, meaning what teeth are on what link, matter? 
Being that the chain is tensioned correctly ect.


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

It sounds like you have a good handle on what you are doing.....It is not really a mark on the timing chain...there is a link that is a different color than the others...kind of a silver color...and if I am not mistaken there are two different marks on the cam gear (been a long time since I had the valve cover off)......that link gets aligned with the mark.

If you have not already done so....there is a sticky (thread) at the beginning of this section about a timing chain install....read it...it proved invaluable to me when I did mine....


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

I have looked at the timing chain replacement guide and it was helpful.

-I have gotten the truck to start.. but it seems to be running rather off, like if it had a timing error. 

Two questions I have regarding what could be wrong
Could this be because of noisey lifters ect, needed to warm up I have not let it run more than a few minutes because it sounded off (nothing mechanical, like damaging the head) but, white smoke is coming out of the exhaust and it not only sounded loud but did not smooth out.
When I realign the oilpump/ dist. assembly I set the marks on the pump and then the "backwards D, of the oil pump shaft points at the high noon position and then the dist is not quite on the#1 spark plug spot. 
Once I start the truck, with everything being aligned to TDC, I take my timing light and the timing is not even close to TDC, it comes from the far advance side, as I try to bring it to 10degree before tdc. (as stated in the FSM)

-Shouldn't the truck start on TDC initally if thats where I have everything aligned? -Does this mean I have a different problem. 

Second question, with the head off of the engine, when you turn the crank I notice that two turns of the crank = 1 full cycle meaning two TDC strokes. 
B/c I had previously messed up during disassembly and not had the truck at TDC it was necessary for me to realign things separately. :newbie:

With the head off, I set for TDC by simply turning the #1 piston so it was TDC. -- Now there was no way for me to tell if it was on the compression stroke on the block(with the head off), or if there is even a difference between the two upward strokes when the turning the Just the block.. If so I am worried that I have the head @ TDC compressin stroke but the block may be TDC on the exhaust stroke?:wtf::

Any thoughts on this,  ----as my options today are simpily setting the timing correct and letting it run longer- crossing my fingers, or setting to TDC and turn the crank 1 revolution to put it on the second (or first) UPstroke at TDC then trying over. 

Side question: when initially setting the timing does anything need to be unplged, ecu, throttle body sensor ect? 

off to do a compression check.:lame:


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

*Update:*

Update:

The block is at TDC on on compression stroke, as well as the head. Distributer and oil pump fixture was put in correctly and timing is set.

However, let it ran for about 20 min and it is not sounding/idling good.
I am getting a large taping sound, and something underneathing sounding like dadadadadadadada.
And I am still seeing small amounts of white smoke from the exhaust.

I did a compression test on the cylinders and all 4 were at 120psi..

the spark plugs all look fine. 

:wtf:


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

*Update:*

Update 2:

the computer is showing engine code 14
vehicle speed sensor ....? 

someone spitball here, cause im getting ready to take it in to a tech. 

sidenote - these techs are known to rape wallets


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Not too sure I can help but you have made progress......it did not start when you put it all back together, then you re-did and rechecked and it at least runs....so I am inclined to still think it is a timing issue.....maybe the dist. is off by one tooth on the gear...go to TDC and re-check again.....maybe a plug wire got put on the wrong plug....

You said you put a timing light on it....the FSM manual says that the timing cannot be adjusted it is controlled by the ECU.....I have seen lots of people here say they have adjusted theirs but I THINK you have to disconnect the TPS first...I really do not know...I got lucky I guess..put mine back together, never have had a timing light on it and it has been running fine for over two years since the repair.

Hopefully someone else will weigh in on the discussion who knows more than I do....good luck.


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

TPS sensor may need to be unplugged.. not really understanding why you saind it couldn't be timed? In the Chilton SM, there is a procedure to test and adjust your timing, its simply a rotation of the distributer.
-btw- its awesome that yours went on with no problems!

anyways.

I came up with a theory last night which I Will try tomorrow..
-Upon placing the timing chain on the cam-gear I wedged a piece of wood down in the timing chain which relieves some pressure from the tension and prevents the chain from falling down. 

-I then pulled the chain as tight as I could making sure there was no slack in the pull side..... however- upon further thought, the fact that I wedged the wood in to allow me to accomplish this, may have been the problem. If a slack link in the chain was made by the block of wood on the underside (which i couldnt not see) upon wedging it down, I may have thought I pulled the chain as tight as possible, when actually it had one or two links of slack. 

---This could have caused the crank to move ever so slightly on its own before it began to pull the cam- Thus the engine would not be at TDC when I initially look at it, and it would be slightly retarded. 

--meaning that the spark is firing slightly after its supposed to, when the piston is already on its way down. A late fire, which = shitty running. I will keep you all posted when I test this. 

I feel good about this time


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## jblakeslee (Nov 30, 2005)

Good to hear you may have figured it out.....The Haynes manual and Alldatadiy.com both say that the timing is not adjustable......Don't know why, because like you said, all you have to do is loosen the hold down and rotate the dizzy.

Good luck getting it worked out. And thanks for the update. Most folks here figure out the problem, and then never come back and let people know the fix....


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## Ryanone (Feb 15, 2011)

*oh, uh uh oh, oh ---New problem, not necessary 2 read previous*

SOO, I did what was previously mentioned: lined up the timing chain marks. put back together and truck fires up. Timing is fine. 

--new problem. The oil pressure light came on after startup and I have loud noise, a clackclackclackclack, coming from what sounds like the head. I replaced the oil pump. 
--Oil pump light was off for a while, then came back on after about 10-15min of running. Loud noise throughout. I used silicon to seal the old oilpump back together when I originally put it back on, did not use any with new pump/gasket. ----My thoughts, could silicon have gotten somewhere and blocked flow to the cam? I took off the valve cover and the number 1 and two reservoirs were void of oil.

--tldr-- 
::I'm reluctantly taking the head off too check the pathways of the oil to ensure there clear. I think thats the only way? 

Also ensuring I didnt bend a valve through this whole process.. because it runs well but sounds awful.::


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