# Maintenance Free fuel filter (Oh yeah!)



## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

I decided today to replace my fuel filter, it's really an easy job.

What I discovered is that the old fuel filter was full of gunk...When I flipped it over there was dark gasoline coming out of it, also there was lot's of rust under the rear seat??:lame: 

What I can notice after replacing it? smoother idle, less cranking time.

Here are some pic's comparing the filters,










Here is what came out of the fuel filter










And here is the location of the fuel pump/filter assembly










IF you are going to to the job, make sure to open the fuel tank to release the pressure and not make a mess.

Hope it helps to those complaining on bad idle quality, since mine improved a lot.


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Good stuff.

Where did you get it from and how much did it cost?


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Kudos. That was pretty courageous. Just wondering - where is the nylon mesh filter as it's not in the photos?


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

LEONGSTER said:


> Kudos. That was pretty courageous. Just wondering - where is the nylon mesh filter as it's not in the photos?


It's an all integrated unit, the fuel lever, filter, pump, and the mesh its on the fuel pickup line.

And Jalal it was 24$bucks from my nissan dealer. Mine had 50,000km's.


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## GFB (Oct 16, 2006)

Thanks for sharing this with us, driftking - you might remember I expressed my concerns about this issue in a previous thread. Particularly the photo comparing the filter units is interesting! The filter unit in this photo indeed looks similar to that depicted in the manual for the 2.5L model (2005). 

Am I correct in saying that one can vaguely see a paper filter element inside the new (still white) unit? Was it easy to undo the large plastic locking ring in order to get access to the tank? (no special tools?) Did you replace any o-rings/seals?

Cheers


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## bas (Oct 12, 2005)

Although the fuel over here in Oz is good quality, it is great to know how easy this replacement is. Thanks for the tip. Appreciated.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

It mite be a stoopid Q - but what lump is this from - I assume a petrol - but is it the 2.0 or 2.5L? Or doesnt it matter?


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

GFB said:


> Thanks for sharing this with us, driftking - you might remember I expressed my concerns about this issue in a previous thread. Particularly the photo comparing the filter units is interesting! The filter unit in this photo indeed looks similar to that depicted in the manual for the 2.5L model (2005).
> 
> Am I correct in saying that one can vaguely see a paper filter element inside the new (still white) unit? Was it easy to undo the large plastic locking ring in order to get access to the tank? (no special tools?) Did you replace any o-rings/seals?
> 
> Cheers


There is a paper filter element inside of the case of the fuel filter, mine was almost burn oil color. 

To undo the large plastic locking ring I used a hammer and my wrench, there is a yellow mark indicating the position of how you should put the cap when you reassemble. No, I didnt have to use special tools and no o-rings/seals.

The only tricky part is getting the unit out of the tank, because the fuel lever is quite fragile.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Driftking, am I right to assume the paper element inside is not replaceable and that the entire white-colored housing constitutes the replacement element? (In which case 20 bucks is cheap insurance.)

I unscrewed my fuel sender cover with a u-shaped tool that I made out of aluminium bar stock, but didn't examine the housing as I did not remove it fully from the fuel tank. Your pictures have been terrific help!


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

LEONGSTER said:


> Driftking, am I right to assume the paper element inside is not replaceable and that the entire white-colored housing constitutes the replacement element? (In which case 20 bucks is cheap insurance.)
> 
> I unscrewed my fuel sender cover with a u-shaped tool that I made out of aluminium bar stock, but didn't examine the housing as I did not remove it fully from the fuel tank. Your pictures have been terrific help!


The entire white-colored housing constitutes the replacement element. When you pull out the assembly, the middle part that covers the fuel pump is the filter.


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Thanks DK.


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

The Mad Hat Man said:


> It mite be a stoopid Q - but what lump is this from - I assume a petrol - but is it the 2.0 or 2.5L? Or doesnt it matter?



It's a 2.5L. I dont think that having a 2.0 will make any difference, since both are QRXXDE engines...


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## lanie49 (Jan 13, 2007)

This helps clear up a lot of concern regarding the fuel filter.
Good job mate.
Don't s'pose ya still have the invoice for the replacement with a part No on it ?

Again, good job.


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## The Mad Hat Man (Oct 3, 2006)

thanks driftking - i woz beginning to think i woz invisible  - i just wundered if it applied to mine or not - its a lot of reading fur nowt if it didnt


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

lanie49 said:


> This helps clear up a lot of concern regarding the fuel filter.
> Good job mate.
> Don't s'pose ya still have the invoice for the replacement with a part No on it ?
> 
> Again, good job.


I didnt keep the receipt, but I have the box lying somewhere inside of the X


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## driftking (Aug 7, 2005)

The Mad Hat Man said:


> thanks driftking - i woz beginning to think i woz invisible  - i just wundered if it applied to mine or not - its a lot of reading fur nowt if it didnt


Genuine Nissan Strainer Assy part #16400-2y505


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## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Those pics not working, could you repost em, i wanna replace mine it's going on 130,000km so far

Also, how exactly do you relieve the pressure?


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## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

This is how far i got...what do i do from here


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Here is the method to change the fuel filter correctly. Pay attention to the fuel level wanring and perform the correct fuel pressure relief procedure.


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## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Thanks so much man, i appreciate it 

But how do i remove the lock ring ?

Also, my engine is the QR20...do i just open the gas tank lid to relieve the pressure or do i use the fuse removal method ?

Thanks


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## aussietrail (Sep 24, 2004)

Saood said:


> Thanks so much man, i appreciate it
> 
> But how do i remove the lock ring ?
> 
> ...


You need a special clamping tool that grabs both edges of the black ring to turn it, otherwise you may wanna try tapping it gently anti clock-wise with a screw-driver covered in cloth.

Open the fuel tank cap to relief the pressure and leave it open until you finish.

Pay attention to the yellow mark, as this is how it should be aligned when you put it back together.

*Do NOT smoke or let your friend smoke near you when you do all this!*


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## Saood (Oct 26, 2006)

Thanks man


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## LEONGSTER (Apr 9, 2006)

Here's what the tool looks like.


http://www.amazon.com/Tank-Fuel-Pump-Removal-LOC-940/dp/B000HDCB0M


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## TKH (May 19, 2007)

We (in Malaysia) have been recommended to change out the "filter" between 80,000 and 100,000 km. Together with the plastic "O" ring, the filter assembly is changed out. The plastic "O" ring may have the tendency to break, thus not sealing the unit properly.

Cost RM140.00, inclusive of labour, parts and tax (CAD$1.00=RM3.30)


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## sophie (Jun 24, 2015)

is it ok if i just clean my fuel filter and not buy a new one? my fuel filter is attached to the fuel pump and inorder for me to replace one part, i have to buy the other. how do i go about it because the charges are hefty.


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Sophie,
Usually you replace filters, as you can never fully clean them unless they are designed for it. Why do you think you need to change your fuel filter? If you are in Canada the gas quality is high and its rare it ever needs changing. What kind of vehicle is it? If its an X trail the gas filter is described and its location are discussed earlier in this thread. Let us know. Good luck.


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## sophie (Jun 24, 2015)

Hi, 

Thank you for your quick response, What actually happened is the vehicle started stalling and jerking with vibrating coming from underneath, initially they had told me i needed to change the Engine mountings and i believed that was cause of the jerking during acceleration. when i took my vehicle to a mechanic he told me it was fuel related and most probably my fuel filter was clogged , with some difficulty he located it and it was attached to the fuel pump, he managed to disconnect it and he used some kind of Pump to pull out all the dirty stuff, the residues where black like cappuccino, i lost about 7 liters of fuel but by the time he was done the fuel was back to normal and red in colour, we did a test drive and the vehicle was running smoothly. it has now been 3 days . he mentioned i would need to buy a new pump if the problem came back . i'm soo worried as the quote i got from the Nissan dealer ship is close to $800. is there a way to buy the fuel filter alone without buying the pump? i know what my mechanic did was a temporary solution. my car is a nissan x trail model 2000 with 107000km on it .


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

This might help 
New Custom Electric Intank Fuel Pump w Installation Kit Fit Nissan Toyota E8229 | eBay

even provides pics and a video for how to do it.
Was the 800 for the part only or include installation?


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

And as this thread is showing the position of the X trail fuel pump and filter is under the back seat. I wouldn't worry about it until symptoms start showing up again, and when that happens there are much cheaper options for you to have it fixed. You might even be able to do it yourself ;-)


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## sophie (Jun 24, 2015)

Dear Q, I managed to buy just thw fuel filter and we replaced it however vehic hasn't been ok. the check engine light appeared after all the jerking and vibrations I mentioned in my earlier thread, at the Nissan dealership they told me the crank shaft sensors need replacing. The vehicle will star ok but then stall or stop at traffic lights, I bought the sensor parts on eBay but now after replacing them the vehicle won't start, when I replace the old ones it starts ok
. what should I do? could this be a wiring problem?


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## sophie (Jun 24, 2015)

do you have any experience with new crankshaft sensors failing? I need help before taking it to the Nissan dealership


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## quadraria10 (Jul 6, 2010)

Hi Sophie
I have never had to replace mine, but my understanding is that there can be problems with aftermarket sensors and sadly to say Ebay ones lead the list. Better to get the genuine Nissan ones, and I believe they sell a kit that includes a new cam sensor as well. You can probably find the Nissan one on line as well but it will probably be similarly priced to the dealer's part counter.
check this out
Replace the Crank Position and and Cam Position sensors on an XTRAIL T30 » frolektrics

Amazon.com: 23731-6N21A GENUINE Nissan Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Sensor, Nissan Sentra/Altima/Frontier/X-Trail: Automotive

appears the cam sensor is the identical part and that they are interchangeable. Check how much from the dealer and have the ebay one changed out. You don't need to use the dealer and if using a garage most can order parts from dealer for repairs.
Good luck. Hope it sorts out your problems with your X trail.


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