# 2011 Nissan Altima S jerking, sputtering, bucking, and rough idle



## N.AltimaS11 (10 mo ago)

Hi,
I have a 2011 Nissan Altima that in the beginning as you were accelerating, it would have some mild jerking (almost unnoticeable), some surges at takeoff, and the idle had became very low. Even during acceleration and driving, the RPMs had started staying lower than they had been being. Had the codes ran and it threw a code for the MAF Sensor. Since then I have traded out MAF Sensors a couple of different times due to purchasing MAF Sensors from Autozone that were no good. Recently, I was driving down the road and the car just started bucking and jerking and when I put it in park, the idle is very speratic and sounds almost like its getting to much air. It also has lost power like its sluggish. I have changed the plugs, the air filter, checked the PCV valve, and reprogrammed the newest MAF Sensor but it is still having the same issues. After clearing the codes and cranking it for the first time, it will idle fine for the first 15 seconds or so and start right back with the issues. After clearing the codes the last time, I drove it back to the part store to have the codes ran again and I'm still getting MAF codes. I have a P0420 code for the Catalyst System, a P0102 code for the MAF Sensor/Circuit and Mass or Volume Air Flow "A" Circuit Low Input, a P0113 code for the Intake Air Temperature Sensor/Circuit, and also a U1000 code for Controller Area Network Line Malfunction. I'm not sure what to try next. If anyone has any advice I would GREATLY appreciate it. I can't afford to put it in the shop and pay a mechanic.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

With a P0102 and a P0113 at the same time, it's very likely the MAF has a bad ground. The Yellow wire is the IAT ground, Red is the MAF ground. If you find no ground at either one, there's a joint connector F52 at the left front of the engine box where they come together on the way to the ECM. The easiest way to check if ground is the issue is backprobe the MAF connector with safety pins and jumper them to the block or chassis. If the codes disappear, trace the wiring and find the break.


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