# 2000 Altima - Car can reverse, but will not go forward



## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

2000 nissan altima, automatic transmission over 300K miles.

Last night noticed some smoke coming from under hood. When driving home noticed it would lose power when I stepped on the gas from the traffic light. It would rev up, but no response, then shift into gear and move. I had to be careful and slowly stepped on the gas to get it going.

This morning, it would go into reverse, but not any of the drive gears. Tried cycling through the gears to see if Drive would eventually engage.

Last winter, it had problems, but would eventually warm up and get into gear.

Was dark this morning, and I needed to get to work, so I took another car.

I'll check the fluid this afternoon.

Any other things to check?


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

OK. Just checked the fluid level. 

Ran the engine for about 5-10 min to warm it up. Shifted thru all the gear a few times.

No fluid on the dipstick. Bone dry!

Initial start was able to go in reverse a bit. After warm up, it was very difficult to go in reverse.

What do you guys think? Lucas Oil? I figure if adding some Lucas oil and some fresh ATF can get it moving, I can drive it down the road to the shop.

I was able to reverse out of the spot in the driveway I normally park and kicked all the leaves and acorns away. There, I noticed a lot of oily spots. Maybe spots the size of silver dollars all over there. Looks like slow drip.


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

Doing some research on how far a tranny will go before total failure from lack of ATF.

found this encouraging quote from a site where someone had gotten the car back from the shop for a oil AND transmission fluid change. they apparently drained both, but did not refill the transmission fluid. He was able to drive back and complain. 

How far can I drive without fluid in auto transmission? (shop screwed up)-Correction - 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX - Ultimate Subaru Message Board
"On the good side most trannies will survive this if it had fluid enough to move. Also most shops have insurance for this. "

And then, I found this neat chart. Question is how long it went like this? I'm sure I saw enough ATF when I checked the dipstick at the beginning of summer.

7 Ways To Destroy Your Automatic Transmission - Clean Machine Car Wash


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

OK. I think I can save my car!

Found a cracked hose from the radiator to the transmission.

Started at 4:45 with a 24 oz bottle of LucasOil in hand. The stuff is thick like cold honey!

Put the funnel into the dipstick well and added about 6 oz. While it slowly dripped in, I looked under the car and found no discernible leaks.

Spots on the driveway were only about the size of a silver dollar and here seemed to be maybe two dozen of them. Transmission pan was damp with oil, but not dripping.

I ran the engine to warm up and slowly cycled up and down the gears.

When the first 6 oz. went down, I tried to put in reverse. It was having trouble, so I stopped. checked the dipstick - still dry.

5:00 PM Added another 4 oz. cycled up and down, check dipstick still dry. Able to go back a few feet before it strains. I stop. cycle back and forth. 

5:10 PM Add another 4 oz. cycle up and down, check dipstick. Now I see some on the tip, but nowhere near where it should be for a warm engine. Cycle up and down some more

5:20 Add another 4 oz. Cycle up and down, check dipstick. I've got some more progress up the dipstick, but not in the warm crosshatch zone. I shift up and down and I can feel it lock into park, reverse, neutral, and drive. I don't feel or hear any changes D2 or D1.

At this point, I put it in reverse and then drive -- Wooohooo! I have shiftable gears now, but there is a delay on some.

I get out and check the dipstick - still low. then I notice a puddle forming at my feet. I get a fingerful and it's reddish brown. Does not smell burnt though. I look and see where the leak is from. It's on a hose, right at the the clip that hooks it up to the transmission. the other end seems to go to the radiator.

Engine kinda hot right now, so I'm going to leave the car to cool overnight. Will get some new hose to make the repair tomorrow - anyone know offhand what size?


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

Looking online for "2000 Nissan Altima Transmission Hose" brings up a variety of choices. Considering I just need to keep this car running til May 2018, I'm looking for the cheapest solution.
- There's a generic Hayden 105 hose for around $7 that seems to measure .8 inches or 11/32" x 4' 1/2"
- There is also an Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler hose specifically for the 2000 Nissan Altima going for between $19 and $32
- I am also considering cleaning up the hose very carefully and then wrapping it with duct tape, and putting a small hose clamp on it. 

I made a similar repair for the upper radiator hose once that held for about 6 months before I got the part online and got around to installing it.


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

I decided to opt for the duct tape repair option just to see if I can get the car running.

I finished applying 20 oz. of LucasOil. and a quart of Valvoline MaxLife made for Nissan.

Using some Gorilla Glue Duct Tape and a small hose clamp, I got it where there were no leaks and I was able to reverse and shift into drive, no problem. However, the trans fluid still just barely touches the bottom of the dipstick.

I took it for a spin on a 10 mile circuit around where I live. At the 5 mile mark, I pulled over and saw some smoke coming from the engine bay, but figured it was residual fluid that was sprayed around getting burned off. Eventually no smoke that i could see. I continued driving taking some hills and straight aways at various speeds from 5 to 45 mph.

Shifting performance seemed to get better as I drove it around. Initially it would slip when starting up at traffic light changes. But it got better. No more smoking that I could see.

At 10 miles (about the same distance that I went the other night when I first noticed the smoking and severe slipping), I stopped at the auto parts store to add another quart of fluid.

Added fluid and shifted it around. Did not notice any smoking. Decided to go home. (less than 2 miles).

First half mile, I saw a lot of smoke billowing from the back. When I stopped, I saw more coming from under the hood. Then it started slipping severly.

I was able to make it home where I'm letting the car cool off. Parked it in a fresh spot of the driveway to see if I can find new leak spots.

I'm beginning to think it's the seals at the axle(s). Wondering if the Lucas Oil was too thick and plugged something up, causing a seal to pop?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You should have never put the Lucas oil in it. The only thing you should use in these transmissions is either NissanMatic Type "D" ATF or and aftermarket transmission fluid recommended for Dexron II applications; Valvoline Maxlife full-synthetic ATF and Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF are both good choices. You do not want automatic transmission fluid to be "thick." Nissan doesn't even recommend Dexron III/Mercon ATF for services because it has been known to cause sticking in the valve body partly due to its slightly thicker viscosity. 
That said, there is no pressure in the differential case of the transmission to cause the seals to "pop." You could have simply a leaking diff seal, if there is fluid leaking from there, or there could be so much play in the differential side bearings that it is causing the inner CV joint to wobble and cause the leak. You need to identify the leak and the cause, first. A transmission fluid is really nothing more than a hydraulic pump; if the oil (auto trans fluid) gets too low in the pan, the pump inside the trans will begin to suck air and the trans will not operate properly. If you think the transmission problems are solely related to the low oil level due to the leak and you can fix the leak without a great deal of expense, I would then drain the trans fluid, refill with fresh trans fluid and then perform a trans fluid flush to try and get rid of as much of the Lucas oil as possible from inside the trans.


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

Got it working great now!

Didn't get a chance to look at it Thursday. Friday night I popped the hood and added a quart of transmission fluid - racking the shifter up and down thru all the gears to help it circulate while the engine was running.

I was examining the splash pattern of the fluid inside the engine bay when I saw fluid start to squirt through the edges of the clamp that I had over the patch. The Gorilla tape adhesive had dissolved to a foam, sticky mess.

Felt better that it may not be a new leak elsewhere. Turned off the engine and went to Advance Auto and they did not have the transmission cooling hose in stock.

Went to the Nissan dealer and the parts department was closed. The fitted dealer part goes for around $32.

Woke up this morning and removed the offending hose and brought it to Pep Boys the next town over. They matched it to a generic hose they had in stock - Hayden 105 for $14. 

Brought it home and cut it to size. I had enough hose left to make another replacement! 

Installed and clamped down both ends.

Put in a total of 5 1/2 quarts of transmission fluid before it reached the COLD mark on the dipstick.

Drove the same circuit that I did the other day. Saw smoke from the hood at the same spot that it smoked last time. Then it subsided. btw. There is no slippage at all at this point.

Stopped in the same spots and checked the fluid level. Now it's in the HOT level. Good sign.

Drove to the parts store and stopped for a bit, same as yesterday. This was the 10 mile mark. 

So far I had drove up and down some hills and had hit up to 55 mph with no slippage. No smoking or dripping! Woohooo!

I drove another five miles without trouble. Parked it over some flattened cardboard to see if there will be any drips overnight.

I think this is resolved. Will update if there are changes to status, or in a month or two about how the car is running with some Lucas Oill still in it (in the interest of science).

I only need to have this car running til May 2018 when I plan to donate it for a tax write-off.


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

smj999smj said:


> You should have never put the Lucas oil in it. The only thing you should use in these transmissions is either NissanMatic Type "D" ATF or and aftermarket transmission fluid recommended for Dexron II applications; Valvoline Maxlife full-synthetic ATF and Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF are both good choices. You do not want automatic transmission fluid to be "thick." Nissan doesn't even recommend Dexron III/Mercon ATF for services because it has been known to cause sticking in the valve body partly due to its slightly thicker viscosity.
> That said, there is no pressure in the differential case of the transmission to cause the seals to "pop." You could have simply a leaking diff seal, if there is fluid leaking from there, or there could be so much play in the differential side bearings that it is causing the inner CV joint to wobble and cause the leak. You need to identify the leak and the cause, first. A transmission fluid is really nothing more than a hydraulic pump; if the oil (auto trans fluid) gets too low in the pan, the pump inside the trans will begin to suck air and the trans will not operate properly. If you think the transmission problems are solely related to the low oil level due to the leak and you can fix the leak without a great deal of expense, I would then drain the trans fluid, refill with fresh trans fluid and then perform a trans fluid flush to try and get rid of as much of the Lucas oil as possible from inside the trans.


Thanks. I ended up putting in 5 1/2 quarts of Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF. got the gallon jug at Walmart for $17.88


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

Going on six months and still running well.

Getting ready to donate the car anyway since it won't pass emissions. (No one has been able to fix it) I've got until May. 

Thinking about getting either a new 2018 Altima, or a pre-owned 2016 model.


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## BillHoo (Nov 13, 2006)

Seems sad to let this car go. At over 300,000 miles the engine still runs like a champ. Transmission seems solid.

Only thing is it's on it's second computer and I don't want to spend to get a new one. That would probably resolve the emissions errors that the shops have not been able to resolve and I have replaced all the emissions related parts. (though I never got around to replacing the fuel pump gasket).

Currently has a Crack in the windshield, rusting at the driver side rear wheel well and bad rear shocks, AC compressor dead.

Over the past 18 years as I've said I have only replaced

- Computer (2009)
- A strut and CV joints (2010)
- Driver side control panel (2007)
- one windshield (2013)
- unnumerable sets of tires.
- charcoal cannister twice (first time in 2007)
- emmissions components twice(first time in 2007)
- gas cap (2016)
- Maybe three new batteries (2004, 2013 and 2016)
- one alternator in 2004 (I think it was due to faulty battery installation by the shop)
- One muffler in 2011 followed by new upper and lower pipes in 2013
- 2017 I repaired the catalytic converter by welding the rusted out neck/flange.
- Regular oil changes and Sea Foam treatment every 4-5K miles.
- Coolant Thermostat at 2016 (I don't think it needed to be replaced the dealer recommended it for $250, but I replaced it myself for $9
- Replace upper and lower coolant hoses at least twice in 18 years.
- Replaced the radiator in 2010 when is sprung a leak around 220K miles
- Timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley at 2012 when the belt broke and left me stranded a mile from work.
- Fuel Rail (2016) - was allegedly leaking during safety inspection
- Front brakes - new calipers (2016)
- Two new rims (2010 and 2015) dented from road damage
- Motor mounts 2007 $550 
- Motor mounts 2009 $550
- Motor mounts 2011 $550 After that I said screw it when the dealer told me they wouldn't hurt to not replace them (same dealer each time)

I think most of the major problems started when I hit the 220K mile mark around 2010. After that I think I was spending about $1500 a year on repairs.

Time for a new one and go another 300K. I've called Purple Heart Donations and they're coming to pick it up next week.

Leaning now more toward a 2016 Versa Note with 44K miles for around $8K. That should get me at least 10 more years before we have self-driving, solar electric cars! ;D


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## matthias (Jun 11, 2018)

Thanks for sharing the information. . . .


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## christanwilley (Oct 10, 2018)

I really like this post very useful for me.


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