# Traction control and radar/AEB lights ON



## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

Sorry about the long post but I wanna add details hoping someone can help me out here... our first slushy snowfall I got "radar obstructed" which is no big deal cuz it was slushy ... BUT, it must be tied in with the ABS (hope someone can confirm this) because when I was turning I sled straight into the curb without ABS activating. If I had the wheels straight than I would have probable just drove on top/over the curb but since the wheel was turned it hit sideways, flat (no rubber) into the curb... quite severe that it damaged the wheel bearing, no other visible damage, nothing else seems bent or broken but the wheel has some play (side to side) and humming... so if I drive it, at first only the traction light is ON (pic1) but few minutes later the malfunction messages comes ON (pic2) and even the steering wheel position is off while driving straight (pic3)
so, question 1, is the traction, ABS and AEB all tied in? the AEB light coming ON due to the the ABS/bearing issue as well?
question 2, should I just concentrate on the bearing first and see hows it is after or should I be looking for something else as well? should I replace just the one side or both?
question 3, Im gonna have an alignment done but would that cause the steering wheel to be off or would there be something else? SAS calibration?
any comments, help is appreciated


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

1) Slush and radar don't mix. The Radar (and Lane Cam, too) aren't really trustworthy in crappy weather.
2) The ABS/VDC are all tied up with the radar, _but_, that probably isn't your issue. Nissan VDC's pretty much only respond to oversteer (a potential spin). They'll let the car understeer till the cows come home with little or no reaction. So if you understeered into a snowbank expecting the car to bail you out, it won't.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Well, let me qualify point 2. It's not that it won't prevent understeer, it's that it can't. If you think about what it would need to do to correct a slide with no yaw component (modulate the inside front wheel), on a slick surface, that could provoke a spin instead of correcting the understeer. The system won't do that.


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## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> 1) Slush and radar don't mix. The Radar (and Lane Cam, too) aren't really trustworthy in crappy weather.
> 2) The ABS/VDC are all tied up with the radar, _but_, that probably isn't your issue. Nissan VDC's pretty much only respond to oversteer (a potential spin). They'll let the car understeer till the cows come home with little or no reaction. So if you understeered into a snowbank expecting the car to bail you out, it won't.


I didnt expect the car to bail me out but I did expect the ABS to kick in and not lock the brakes (I didnt overstreer, I was trying to turn but kept going straight, I pressed the bakes and sled about 10ft into curb) .. anyways, I just hope its not much more than the bearing assembly


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## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

can the steering wheel be 'calibrated' or should I see how it is after an alignment


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If the wheels were turned and not straight, that's the textbook definition of understeer. Like I said, the system won't try to correct that. Modulating both brakes isn't an option for the system either. Under circumstances where the wheels are locked sideways and not forward, modulation wouldn't accomplish anything.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Yes, there's a calibration for the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS). Very simple procedure with a capable scanner.


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## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

VStar650CL said:


> Yes, there's a calibration for the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS). Very simple procedure with a capable scanner.


thanks... "capable" thats what I was thinking ... I'll check if I can order the Nissan module for foxwell scanner


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. The only "trick" is that the road wheels need to be straight, _not_ the steering wheel. If your steering wheel position is off a bit and you calibrate with the steering straight but the road wheels off center, you'll get codes. To assure the road wheels are centered, I usually point the car straight at about 20mph in a level parking lot, then hold the wheel at that position, come to a stop, and do the calibration.


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## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

_UPDATE_
so, I changed the bearing assembly and the control arm because it was bent, took it around the block and all the warning light came back on... shut it off and back on and took it around the block again and by the third time, none of the warning lights lights came on and even the steering wheel position looks good but I'll still calibrate it and take it in for alignment BUT I still hear something rubbing (more like dragging something) and it is wheel/drive related cuz it 'changes' with the speed.. hope its something simple and not the half shaft


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## Osaga (Dec 1, 2021)

the other thing I should mention is that while replacing the control arm, the ball joint pinch bolt on the knuckle, I had such a hard time pulling it out and even harder time putting it in that I damaged the threads, I have ordered a new one but makes me wonder if something is still off making it not line up


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Most ABS codes require driving the car and then cycling the key before the lights will turn off. So if the lights have stayed off after the initial post-repair drive, it's likely your fix did the trick. If so, you'll only find "past" DTC's when the system is scanned. Check the brake backing-plate for your rubbing noise. When changing hubs or axles, it's very easy to bend it so it ends up making contact with the back of the brake rotor.


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