# 1994 HB is "dieseling" please help



## crs82 (Mar 5, 2010)

Some of you may know what I speak of. When I turn off the key, the engine will "diesel" or continue running for about 2-3 seconds before finally coming to a stop. When I crank the trunk up in the morning, it will put out white smoke with a definite fuel smell.
No codes being shown, smog numbers are excellent. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I just went through and replaced any lines that looked "hinky".
Any ideas? FPR?

Thanks in advance.

Chuck


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

check your timing ...clean and or replace plugs..

did you read the ecm codes or are you relying on the cel ??


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## crs82 (Mar 5, 2010)

Checked the ECM and no codes thrown. Timing is on spec.
Plugs have been in a while so replacing them is probably a good idea anyway.
I'll do that, then check back in.


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

most times there is a leak down from the injectors that causes this if not the timing..


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## crs82 (Mar 5, 2010)

How long do the stock injectors typically go before needing replacement?


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## zanegrey (Dec 5, 2005)

UPDATE ......


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## crs82 (Mar 5, 2010)

I wish I had something new to tell. I am now looking for new injectors, but I am put off by some of the prices. I am considering having them rebuilt, but I need the truck on a daily basis.
Isn't there typically a code that denotes leaking injectors?
Any good leads on decent injector prices?
I will definitely post when I have more to offer.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

crs82 said:


> I wish I had something new to tell. I am now looking for new injectors, but I am put off by some of the prices. I am considering having them rebuilt, but I need the truck on a daily basis.
> Isn't there typically a code that denotes leaking injectors?
> Any good leads on decent injector prices?
> I will definitely post when I have more to offer.


There is no specific code for a leaky injector. It's just not that easy. The only way I know of to find it would be to physically remove the injectors from the engine with the fuel rail still attached, and turn the key to the "on" position to cycle the fuel pump one time. You will probably only here the fuel pump run one time for a very few seconds. Turn the key off and look for fuel dripping from one or more injectors. They should normally all be dry. Any that leak will need to be serviced or replaced.

Do NOT attempt to crank the engine as this will activate the injectors spraying fuel everywhere, where any stray spark could ignite this atomised fuel. Any time you work around fuel in this manor there are some inherent risks. Be VERY careful!



-R


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## jdchandler13 (Dec 9, 2011)

one thing that you can do short of pulling the injectors out of the throttlebody, is run 90% or higher rubbing alcohol at a ratio of 1oz/gal of gas and that will help break loose any deposits you may have at the nozzle opening of your injector(s). If that doesn't help then you may have to manually remove them and clean them. The thing with your factory ecu is it is monitoring that the injectors are opening to mist, it doesn't care whether they close back or not so them not closing will not throw a code unless it is something electronic that would also cause them not to open.


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

jdchandler13 said:


> one thing that you can do short of pulling the injectors out of the throttlebody, is run 90% or higher rubbing alcohol at a ratio of 1oz/gal of gas and that will help break loose any deposits you may have at the nozzle opening of your injector(s). If that doesn't help then you may have to manually remove them and clean them. The thing with your factory ecu is it is monitoring that the injectors are opening to mist, it doesn't care whether they close back or not so them not closing will not throw a code unless it is something electronic that would also cause them not to open.



+1

Also, depending upon the engine, with the fuel rail unbolted from the head, I noticed it would be pretty darn hard to keep the injectors attached to the rail when pressurized, say on a 94, 2.4 engine, at least. The line pressure would surely just pop them off and create a big-gass flood, so probably not a very good idea I had there.:lame:

-R


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## w9bna (Oct 11, 2011)

Maybe BG44K formula 208 & 210. It helped my truck with carbon deposits, which could be causing hot spots in your cylinders. I dont know for sure what causes an injector leak but what if it were deposits preventing a proper seal inside the injector. I know this for sure, BG44K is worth the price. My truck ran much better, pre ignition went away and mileage went up about 1 mpg. I paid about 25$ on ebay for the 208-210 kit.


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## w9bna (Oct 11, 2011)

I found this link for ebay

BG Products 4 pk Air Intake System Cleaner, 44K,Fuel Injection System CleanerX2 | eBay


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## TheRepairMan (Jun 30, 2009)

We had used BK products for decades in the shop. I bet I've still got some of those plastic gold coins that use to come in the cans you could turn in for points and cash. I've even sat in on some BK company training seminars over the years, and it is really good, professional/commercial fuel system cleaner, but due to keeping overhead down for both us and our customers, we have switched to Berryman B12 with very good results. Plus, there hasn't been a BK company rep around to see us in years, so we've sort of forgotten about them.

Also, some of the attraction to the Berryman is because it is readily available at Walmarts, and most auto parts stores. Other fairly good options for cleaning fuel systems are Seafoam, and Techron, but they are a little more expensive than the B12, and IMO don't work any better.

Don't just throw a few bottles of GasDry or the older STP in there, because all it addresses is primarily moisture in the fuel and will do nearly literally nothing to clean varnish and carbon off of valves and injectors. STP does have a new treatment coming out that boasts strong cleaning performance, as well as fuel stabilizing properties. I haven't seen it on the shelves, nor used it so I can't compare it to either BerrymanB12, Stabil, or others yet.

On another note, our shop had to cease use of the BK fuel injector cleaning "system"... the one that is stand-alone that you actually hang their pressurized commercial canister under the hood and run your car off of for about 20 minutes, because it was cleaning engine internals way too good. It was actually washing down the cylinder walls on engines with just over 90,000 miles on them and causing them to burn oil at a much higher than normal rate. We did a few good-will engine rebuilds because of it.

This is very unlikely to happen with any product mentioned earlier when just added to the fuel tank if you follow the instructions on the can. That's just a much less immediate cleaning process. So, I am on board with the BK cleaners, as well as some others, when they are used properly.

Oh, and one more thing... I have actually removed partially clogged up injectors and sprayed just any old aerosol carburetor cleaner through them with the little straw it comes with, and had pretty good success in cleaning them out as well as seeing the spray pattern improve greatly. Wear goggles or at least safety glasses when trying this 'cause carb cleaner back spray really hurts your eyes, and face, (don't ask how I know) ;-( ...and also buy new injector seals, top and bottom, so not to have any intake vacuum leaks afterwards.

-R


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

You can check for fuel injector leakdown with a fuel pressure gauge and a pair of pinch-off pliers. If one is leaking, I would replace all four as they are probably not far behind. I used to get reman. fuel injectors from AutoPartsGiant.com; they were cheap and I had no problems with them, but you do have to send back the cores. May want to check Rockauto.com, as well. Heavy carbon buildup on top of the pistons will cause dieseling, as well.


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