# Tool to remove the cv axel



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

i need to remove and replace my left Continous Velocity Axel, and i cant remember what the tool is called to remove it. any help on this. Thank you:loser:


----------



## Tavel (Aug 21, 2004)

it's called a "big-ass screwdriver"

the proper tool is an 'axle puller', but a big flathead screwdriver has always worked well enough for me.


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

thanks mate ill see how much the tool costs, at napa (i get 50% off) and if its to much ill get a bf screwdriver


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

ohh off hand, because i cant find out until i decide to do it(only one car) does any one know what size the whell nut is, 32mm? for some reson this poped into my mind


----------



## GA16DE (Jun 23, 2005)

Yeah, mine was 32mm, so it should be.


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

yes your correct i just purchaesd the socket and thank you for all the help today


----------



## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

pry bar ftw


----------



## Tavel (Aug 21, 2004)

2dr_Sentra said:


> pry bar ftw


where's the finesse in a prybar? lol


----------



## 2dr_Sentra (Dec 10, 2005)

Tavel said:


> where's the finesse in a prybar? lol


No finesse here


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

now i have resorted to big F N hammer to beat the axel out of the hub. unless some one has a easier idea.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Burn 17 said:


> now i have resorted to big F N hammer to beat the axel out of the hub. unless some one has a easier idea.


I don't understand how you are stuck. On mine the splines on the hub were free.
you have the nut off. 
Undo the strut from the hub assembly so it will tilt forward.
the axle should just slide back and then you can clear the hub. you may have to push the control arm down to get enough clearance.
pop the axle from the transmission with a pry bar, or large screw driver etc. I cant remember the order I did this in, but you can figure it out.
it should then be out. don't forget to put a tray under the transmission if you didn't drain it already.
hope this helps.


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

ya i got it all out now, just needed to free the axel from the hub, it was stuck, now i just need to buy tranny oil and figgure out where to fill it at


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Burn 17 said:


> ya i got it all out now, just needed to free the axel from the hub, it was stuck, now i just need to buy tranny oil and figure out where to fill it at


At the front of the transmission, there is a square drive plug.
The drain is at the bottom, again square drive. I believe the drain is 3/8 and the fill 1/2. 
Dont buy Oil thats to thick, 75 -90 is OK. avoid 80 -90 the shift will be sticky when cold.
good luck...


----------



## topz (May 15, 2006)

Do you guys put in a new differential oil seal? Or you don't need to touch it if everything was good (no leak before)? I need to do mine soon, need to find out what parts are needed to swap in a half-shaft.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

topz said:


> Do you guys put in a new differential oil seal? Or you don't need to touch it if everything was good (no leak before)? I need to do mine soon, need to find out what parts are needed to swap in a half-shaft.


I didn't, but then thats me.
I have a definite learned experience that says if its not broke don't fix it !!!


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

ya i didnt change mine and it didnt leak , and i agree, your just wasting money unless its broke

and thanks every one for the help, everything is great now, new axel and tranny fluid, and she runs smooth as a charm


----------



## topz (May 15, 2006)

OK, one more question: do you need to get an alignment after? You have to take the knuckles off the struts, right? If so, is this going to have an effect on alignment?

Or is this a non-issue?


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

topz said:


> OK, one more question: do you need to get an alignment after? You have to take the knuckles off the struts, right? If so, is this going to have an effect on alignment?
> 
> Or is this a non-issue?


I would say yes, toe in - out only is necessary as everything else is fixed.


----------



## Tavel (Aug 21, 2004)

IanH said:


> I would say yes, toe in - out only is necessary as everything else is fixed.


I would say no...unless you disconnected the tie rod or ball joint for some reason. You really only needed to remove the brakes and strut to pull the axle.


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

actuly my car drove compleatly strait when i put it all together, this is an improvment for me, but i may put it up on the rack next week and check it anyway


----------



## DrumBum05 (Jan 18, 2006)

IanH said:


> I didn't, but then thats me.
> I have a definite learned experience that says if its not broke don't fix it !!!


Good call...I've replaced mine twice already cuz I can't get a flush seal.


----------



## Burn 17 (Dec 1, 2004)

thats weird, are you using napa or kragen parts or a Genuine Nissan OEM?
because i just pushed mine in and i have no leak, with a new napa axel


----------



## DrumBum05 (Jan 18, 2006)

Burn 17 said:


> thats weird, are you using napa or kragen parts or a Genuine Nissan OEM?
> because i just pushed mine in and i have no leak, with a new napa axel


It was a napa seal with an Autozone reman halfshaft


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Burn 17 said:


> thats weird, are you using napa or kragen parts or a Genuine Nissan OEM?
> because i just pushed mine in and i have no leak, with a new napa axel


I think he meant he replaced the seal and had trouble getting the seal in the correct place (flush)
Both you and I didnt replace the seal and didnt have any leak problems.


----------



## DrumBum05 (Jan 18, 2006)

So I guess "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" are words to live by...


----------



## chizel08 (Mar 2, 2007)

yesterday my friend help me do some mods on my car, some parts were replaced like ball joints, bug shield. its not all done yet because i need to have some tools to be used for my Nissan axle assembly, and some body kits needed to finish the mods for my car..hope i can find one here..


----------



## chizel08 (Mar 2, 2007)

i've been working the whole day for my car mods, did some replacement parts on it..still im not done for repair cuz i really can't find the tools for removing the Nissan axle assembly..i think i should have order again just to finish this..still looking for Nissan body kits i needed..


----------



## Tavel (Aug 21, 2004)

chizel08 said:


> i've been working the whole day for my car mods, did some replacement parts on it..still im not done for repair cuz i really can't find the tools for removing the Nissan axle assembly..i think i should have order again just to finish this..still looking for Nissan body kits i needed..


what the heck is that thing...

CV axles are easy to pull and replace. they pop in and out of the transmission easily because they're held in with little c-springs. I've replaced a few axles on nissans, but have never seen anything like that before.


----------



## IanH (Feb 11, 2003)

Tavel said:


> what the heck is that thing...
> 
> CV axles are easy to pull and replace. they pop in and out of the transmission easily because they're held in with little c-springs. I've replaced a few axles on nissans, but have never seen anything like that before.


Looks like the differential assembly from the front ( or rear) with independent suspension.
Maybe the truck ?
Not a 1997 sentra part


----------



## javelina1 (Mar 23, 2008)

Tavel said:


> it's called a "big-ass screwdriver"
> 
> the proper tool is an 'axle puller', but a big flathead screwdriver has always worked well enough for me.



yep! I bought a 2 1/2 foot screw driver (skinny one too), from Autozone for $2.00. it did the trick. Slid it into the passenger side tranny opening, (after pulling out that shaft), and two taps with the hammer, and out came the shaft.


----------

