# '89 4X4 Running, But No Power



## Smith1000 (Dec 29, 2005)

I have an 89 4X4 with 180,000 miles on it. It has the 2.4 ltr 4 cyl. engine with dual spark plugs. It recently started to run poorly. It is really lacking for power. It will run consistently, but feels kind of like it is missing (almost), but kind of smooths out some at higher speeds (not completely smooth). At idle, the motor will rock back and forth. The exhaust sounds like a fomp, fomp, fomp, fomp.... If I give it gas, it will kind of smooth out when accelerated. There is kind of a ticking/clicking noise that, to me, when accelerating, trying to gain speed, sounds like a valve. When driving though, it really lacks for power-kind of like it is missing or maybe out of time. I rotated the distributor and nothing improved. I switced the coil wires to the distributor and it runs the same. 

I changed the plugs (all 8 of them) and cleaned up the distributor. No improvement. Checked the coils on both sides. Both sides seem to be firing. The spark is yellow and not blue (it is similar on both sides). I am wondering if it has a bad valve or if something is wrong with the head. It seems to get plenty of gas. Kind of has a strong gas/exhaust odor too. I noticed that one of the plugs did not appear to be burnt looking like the others. It looked kind of oily (second from the firewall, intake side). 

Over the past 2 months, I have noticed that when it is cold in the morning, it would kind of miss a bit, but it would clear up fairly quickly and drive just fine. Last Monday morning though, it really took a turn for the worse and no longer improves after warming up a bit.

I am wondering if there is anything in particular that I should look for that would cause this. I am getting around in it still, but it just doesn't have power. I have not changed the distributor cap or plug wires. When I tested the wires, each is getting a spark. Thanks.


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

Change the cap and rotor first, then check for cracked or missing vaccuum hoses. Run some Seafoam through that baby. Check your ECU error codes. Keep it simple first, then look for the hard-to-troubleshoot stuff.


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## Smith1000 (Dec 29, 2005)

I just did a compression test on it. The two cylinders closest to the firewall, #3 and #4, have no compression. #1 and #2 come up okay and seem fine. I am thinking that the head gasket is blown between #3 and #4 cyl. There is no coolant in the oil though. Neither one of these cylinders will even start to build pressure.

Is the head tough to pull off this engine? It doesn't look like it would really be too tough to do. Looks like the throttle body fuel injection could stay attached to the intake manifold. Any pointers? I am thinking I could pull that head and have it machined some and stick it back on there, depending on how it looks. I bet the pistons and rings are okay. It didn't backfire at all, so maybe the head is okay and just the gasket is bad. Thanks for the pointers.


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## bkea (Feb 4, 2005)

I pulled the head off my truck several years ago and had it serviced. I unbolted the intake and pushed it to the side and left in place with everything attached. The exhaust manifold had to come off. The problem will be the exhaust tube from the manifold to the EGR valve. I had to unbolt the tube from the EGR valve (not easy) and leave it (tube) attached to the exhaust manifold. I could not loosen the nut holding the tube to the manifold. 

It wasn't a terribly tough job. It took one day to remove the head, a day at the shop getting serviced and a day to put it back on.

Once the head is off, you can look at the cylinders for scoring. (you can't turn the engine at this point,so you can't see all the cyl walls) I drove my truck for about a month before doing the head and that was a mistake. I think it caused my engine problems that finally caused the engine to fail several years later (at 321,000 miles). 

A word of caution. It is almost impossible to remove the head and keep the timing chain tight. If it loosens, you must take the front cover off and replace the chain. It may be wise to go ahead and plan on doing a timing chain change out at the same time.


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## Smith1000 (Dec 29, 2005)

This is great information. I'll never make 321,000 miles in this truck. If so, all that will be remaining is 3 flakes of blue paint on the frame. It is really rusting away. I need it though because it is kind of a work truck. 

I don't think I will need to do much with the EGR valve. Looks like it has been cut and welded on each end. It was that way when I bought it. 

I am glad you mentioned the timing chain. I wasn't sure what I would run into there. I will start on this as soon as things warm up. I don't have a heated place to work. Thanks!


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## 88pathoffroad (Jun 6, 2004)

Owie. That sucks, man. I'm sorry.


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