# Transmission fluid direct



## Daniel 89 Hardbody (Jan 12, 2015)

89 SE-V6 automatic transmission. Which ATF line is the in and which is the out.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

I believe the passenger, or right side, is the inlet and the driver's side is the outlet, but I'm getting old and my memory's not as good as it used to be!


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## Daniel 89 Hardbody (Jan 12, 2015)

Thanks smj999smj, your knowledge and wisdom serves you well.


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## Daniel 89 Hardbody (Jan 12, 2015)

The reason I asked all these stupid questions is I to am getting too old for this. I am a middle age chemist who works on his car. I am the original owner of this 89 SE-V6 automatic. All 200km is from me. Currently I am giving this truck a throughout maintenance service. The following parts are being replace or install.

Radiator, heater core, engine coolant sensor, oxygen sensor, oil pressure sensor, fuel filter, air filter, brake fluid and remote transmission filter.

Now I have new problem maybe you or other more wise individual may help me. I replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. I had to remove the top portion of the timing belt to get to the sensor. I marked both the belt and the cam sprockets with white out before I removed them. The belt and sprockets were then secure with small clams so they would not move. This morning reassembly, I found the passenger side cam had moved almost an inch. Anything I can do without taking everything off the front of the engine to reattach the timing belt. Chasing down the transmission lines I also notice the rear exhaust bolt on No. 5 cylinder is gone.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

The tensioner is fixed in position on this engine, so it won't move when the belt is removed. The valve spring pressure on the camshaft is uneven, which is why the cam moved. Just turn the cam sprocket back into position and reinstall the belt, assuming the belt hasn't slipped off the other two sprockets. After the belt and sprocket and reinstalled, turn the right bank cam sprocket (the one on your left if you are facing the engine) clockwise about 3-4 teeth. This will put the length of the belt with the most slack or "play" between the two camshaft sprockets. Use your thumb and forefinger on the timing belt at the center point between the two cam sprockets and twist the belt. It should twist 90 degrees. If you can't twist it 90 degrees, it is too tight. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose and you should remove the lower timing cover and retension the belt or replace it. If the timing belt is 5-years old or older and/or has more than 60,000 miles on it, it should be replaced, regardless. The engine is an interference motor and valve damage can occur if the belt jumps or breaks.

Exhaust stud breakage is common on these engines and there was a Nissan TSB on it. Nissan now has harder studs that are less prone to breakage and it is usually the rear ones the break, especially on the right bank. The TSB recommends the end studs and center studs be replaces, along with any others that are broken. That's fine, as long as the others don't break while removing them! Often the studs need to be drilled out. A 90 degree drill and cobalt, reverse-direction drill bits are your best bet. They can be accessed through the opening in the wheel well. The most important thing is too start small and drill as close as possible to the center of the stud, then increase the size of the drill bits, being careful not to drill into the aluminum head. There is a slight gap behind the stud, so you will know when you've drilled completely through the stud, if you chose to do this job yourself. Sometimes they come right out and sometimes they fight you all the way! The right bank exhaust manifold can be removed from the top without removing the Y-pipe first if you put a large prybar on the front pipe of the "Y" and pull it towards the fender. There's enough give on the pipe to let you clear the studs. Get new washers from Nissan if you've lost any (the flat part of the washer faces the nut; the rounded side faces the manifold) and new nuts for all of the exhaust studs. The gasket is sheet metal and can be re-used if you wish, but I prefer to install a new Nissan exhaust manifold gasket and a new gasket at the front pipe to manifold connection.


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## Daniel 89 Hardbody (Jan 12, 2015)

I have this much of the engine apart anyway so I went ahead and purchased a replacement timing belt since this one is 12 years old. I purchased the belt through the local Nissan dealer since factory belt normally comes with the space markings printed on the belt. I placed the cylinder #1 on top dead center following the instructions in the services manual. The crank sprocket is pointing at the mark on the engine block at ~5 o'clock position. Both cam sprockets are pointing outward at their respective markings at 1 o'clock and 11 o'clock. After putting everything back together and proceeded to start the truck. It did not want to fire up. The engine is turning over but it does not catch on. I have checked all the electrical connections and verified the new fuel filter is not clog. Is there anything I missed. The battery cable was removed for over 2 weeks. Does the ECU need to be reset?


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

Nissan ECM's have a base setting if the self-learning is erased, so there is no need for a "ECM reset." Check for spark to the plugs when cranking.


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## Daniel 89 Hardbody (Jan 12, 2015)

I checked the wire from the coil to the distributor this afternoon. It seems good to me. I had to remove the distributor to get access to the coolant temperature sensor, but I put it back the same way it came out. I also check the distributor when I put #1 cylinder on TDC. The rotor pointed to the left toward the AB Valve. Back at 90km I had to change the intake manifold gasket; a lot more things were removed and the engine came back to life after reassembly. Is there anything I've overlook? I appreciate any help this forum can provide.


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