# 2000 Frontier cranks won't start



## tgibson (Nov 12, 2007)

It ran fine yesterday. Today it cranks but don't start. Alternator went bad about a month and a half ago. Put in new battery and alternator. Ran fine until yesterday. Anybody have a troubleshooting guideline of where to start first?


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## joefrontier (Apr 26, 2007)

First off if it is cranking it's probably not the battery or alternator, so you should be good there. 

When was the last time you changed your gas filter? 
Are there any error codes on the truck?
Gas tank full? Maybe the gas gauge is bad?
Air filter plugged?

What you need for the tuck to fire is air, fuel, spark. One of those are not happening.

After you check the easy stuff here is the harder ones.

Distributor bad?
Pull off the plug wires and crank the truck. If you see sparks then distributor is fine.
Plugs worn or bad? How many miles on the plugs?
Timing belt or chain? Find out if belt or chain possibly broke.


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## azrocketman (Oct 5, 2005)

Actually, you need 5 things for an engine to start. They are rotation, timing, spark, fuel, and air. 

1) The engine cranks so you know you have rotation. 

2) To check for spark, you can pull a spark plug wire, hold it close to the plug (you might need an extender like a spring or piece of stiff wire to get the contact beyond the boot) and look for a spark. 

3) To check for fuel/air you can put a small shot of "hot start" ether down the air filter (be careful because a backfire can start a fire and damage the engine in severe circumstances) and see if the engine fires (this will isolate a fuel/air problem). I'd also check that the fuel pump fuse is not blown.

4)You can pull the distributor cap to see if the rotor is turning (distributors are typically driven off of the camshaft) to see if the chain is broken. The V-6 is an interference engine and probably will not crank with a broken belt.

As Joefrontier indicates I'd check the obvious. like gas in the tank. How many miles since important maintenance like fuel filter, timing belt change (if a V6), new air filter?

Steve


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## joefrontier (Apr 26, 2007)

Oh yes two I missed. Timing and Rotation good points!


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## tgibson (Nov 12, 2007)

I just changed the air filter about 2 months ago. I checked all four plugs and they all fired. I put some hot shot down the air filter and it started. I guess the next logical move is to check the fuel filter, if all is clear there, go to the fuel pump?


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## tgibson (Nov 12, 2007)

Oh, yeah I checked the fuel pump fuse and it's ok.


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## joefrontier (Apr 26, 2007)

If u have not changed the fuel filter in 30,000 miles just do it and that will eliminate the fuel filter. 

If it started you can eliminate the the timing change. 

Does it run rough after it started? Does it not want to start after you warm it up and turn it off?

Your fuel pump could still be bad. It may be at a point where it is going out. I think I remember that on the S10 what you wanted to do for the fuel pump that is going bad was to turn the key to on but don't start the engine. Let it sit on the on position for awhile and then then turn it off and then on again. If you can get it started you should put it in a place where you can service it (of course this info is for the s10 and right now you don't know if the fuel pump is bad).


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## tgibson (Nov 12, 2007)

Changed the fuel filter, all is well. Thanks for all your help!

Todd


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## joefrontier (Apr 26, 2007)

How many miles has that fuel filter been on there? 


Good to hear it is fixed.


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## JamesEnns (Sep 2, 2015)

*NEED HELP Frontier won't start!*

Ok so I need some help with my 2000 automatic v6 king cab nissan frontier. I just bought the truck with 200,000 miles on it. At first it ran great than the issues started. It would stall when running, stutter at idle and not get enough gass while accelerating. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, distributer, and fuel pump. It sparks, the lines have gas pressure, and it turns over just fine. However no matter how much I crank it will not start. I have even tried starter fluid which should make it at least sputter if the plugs are sparking sparks but i get nothing. Please help if you have any idea what we could be overlooking.


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## Cusser (Apr 16, 2004)

Use a spark checker tool (under $10) inline with one of the spark plug wires to check for spark, or pull a spark plug wire out of the distributor and use a rag to hold it close but not touching to the distributor terminal it came from, and have someone crank (careful of the fan) and look for spark.

One can also do somewhat similar with a bolt or spark plug when wire is removed at the spark plug end.

My daughter has a '98 Pathfinder with same V6 engine as in many Frontiers and I had to install a new distributor in it for this same reason in April. I bought that online for $82.


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

JamesEnns said:


> Ok so I need some help with my 2000 automatic v6 king cab nissan frontier. I just bought the truck with 200,000 miles on it. At first it ran great than the issues started. It would stall when running, stutter at idle and not get enough gass while accelerating. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, distributer, and fuel pump. It sparks, the lines have gas pressure, and it turns over just fine. However no matter how much I crank it will not start. I have even tried starter fluid which should make it at least sputter if the plugs are sparking sparks but i get nothing. Please help if you have any idea what we could be overlooking.


I've run into a number of sending units on 2000-2001 models that had bad circuits through them to the fuel pump. If you have power to the sender and a good ground and the pump doesn't operate, remove the sending unit and test the continuity and resistance of the circuits through the sending unit. If you have an open circuit through it, or, less likely, excessive resistance, replace the sending unit assy.


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## JamesEnns (Sep 2, 2015)

*Same truck, new issue*

Ok guys so first of all, thanks a lot for the help. After much more work, I have gotten to the point where the truck will start if cold, and run fine. However, when the truck has heated up after running normally on the road, once shut off, it will not start. I checked the plugs and they are no longer sparking! If i wait 3 hours then the truck will start. For some odd reason however once hot, I get no spark. Obviously a sensor has gone bad or there is an electrical issue affected by the temp of the engine. Any ideas what it could be? 

All Parts replaced within the last 3 weeks:

Air filter, 
Fuel filter,
Fuel pump,
Distributor,
Spark plugs,


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

JamesEnns said:


> Ok guys so first of all, thanks a lot for the help. After much more work, I have gotten to the point where the truck will start if cold, and run fine. However, when the truck has heated up after running normally on the road, once shut off, it will not start. I checked the plugs and they are no longer sparking! If i wait 3 hours then the truck will start. For some odd reason however once hot, I get no spark. Obviously a sensor has gone bad or there is an electrical issue affected by the temp of the engine. Any ideas what it could be?
> 
> All Parts replaced within the last 3 weeks:
> 
> ...


Just because parts are "new," doesn't mean they are good or can't fail soon afterwards. This is especially true if you are using aftermarket parts. Losing spark when the engine gets hot is usually a symptom of a bad cam position or crank position sensor; in your case, it may very well be the distributor. Check for stored trouble codes, first. If no codes, then the best thing to do is use the factory service manual to diagnose the problem by symptom when the problem is occurring so you can isolate what the cause is. Guessing at what the problem is can get expensive in a hurry.


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## JamesEnns (Sep 2, 2015)

*Parts and Problems*



smj999smj said:


> Just because parts are "new," doesn't mean they are good or can't fail soon afterwards. This is especially true if you are using aftermarket parts. Losing spark when the engine gets hot is usually a symptom of a bad cam position or crank position sensor; in your case, it may very well be the distributor. Check for stored trouble codes, first. If no codes, then the best thing to do is use the factory service manual to diagnose the problem by symptom when the problem is occurring so you can isolate what the cause is. Guessing at what the problem is can get expensive in a hurry.


I agree with you, which is why directly after putting in a new Duralast distributor in and having its rotor come loose, I replaced it immediately. None of the parts I have put into the truck are "cheap from eBay" parts so I have made sure to be careful. The symptoms do seem to point to a failure in the crank sensor. Unfortunately this weekend is Labor Day weekend so I cannot get the truck in the shop to read the codes until Tuesday. I have the factory service manual so I can check that. Despite that there is still a problem I have no regrets about the parts I have put into it so far. 200,000 miles is a lot and once it’s running well, I’ll have more confidence in its integrity knowing I have replaced key parts of the truck. Thanks!


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

They don't have to be from Ebay to be low quality. I've had problems with aftermarket parts from the local auto parts stores, as well. If I go aftermarket, I want to stick with an OEM part supplier for the manufacturer. In Nissan's case, it's brands like Hitachi, Mitsubishi, NGK, Bando, Akebono, KYB, Tokico and Aisin. Otherwise, especially when it comes to distributors, alternators, and ignition sensors, I prefer to stick with genuine Nissan. The same goes for other manufactures: Motorcraft for Ford products, A/C Delco and Delphi for GM vehicles, Denso and NGK for Toyota, etc. There may be a difference in price from the generic aftermarket parts, but I also have think about the value of not having to do a job a second or third time, especially when I'm working on another's vehicle. I'm not a fan of Autozone's parts. NAPA, Federated Auto Parts and even, to some extent, Advance Auto Parts, seem to have better quality parts where I live. That said, I get most of my parts from Rockauto whenever I can, as they'll carry brands like NGK, Delphi and Motorcraft at a fraction of the price of the local stores, even with shipping added in. The only down side to buying from Rockauto is if you need a part right away and can't wait the 4-5 days for the part to get shipped to you.


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## Ishraeil (Apr 9, 2016)

2004 frontier(d22) yd25 engine. Cranking but won't start. Changed the crank sensor then it start but will not rev above 1700. It shut down then won't start again. Any suggestions to trouble shoot?


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## rgeyer (Apr 29, 2016)

Having gone through hell trying to figure out my 2006 frontier no start if you have low compression readings and you have cranked it for a long time with no start it very well could be cylinder wash. I put approx 2 table spoons of oil in each cylinder and let the cylinders and plugs dry out for several ourz before. Poof compression went from 80 psi to 120. I am going to put a bit more in tomorrow just to make sure the cylinders are lubed. Also if this is the issue use a good does of lucas gas treatment. It contains an upper cylinder lubricant. R


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## smj999smj (Jan 1, 2006)

rgeyer said:


> Having gone through hell trying to figure out my 2006 frontier no start if you have low compression readings and you have cranked it for a long time with no start it very well could be cylinder wash. I put approx 2 table spoons of oil in each cylinder and let the cylinders and plugs dry out for several ourz before. Poof compression went from 80 psi to 120. I am going to put a bit more in tomorrow just to make sure the cylinders are lubed. Also if this is the issue use a good does of lucas gas treatment. It contains an upper cylinder lubricant. R


I don't think he has to worry about his plugs drying out! It's a diesel.


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