# Main Bearing



## little240boy (Jan 13, 2004)

I just had my car in the shop getting its chain, tensioner, guides etc changed to hopefully prolong my engine + get rid of that rattle. However, the rattle is not as loud but still there. I'm thinking its my lifters but as i was reading the forum, it sounded more like the main bearing. I really have no idea what this is or how it effects knocking. The set seems cheap enough but how much work goes into changing this? Where would i go to check my oil PSI or can i do it myself? WHat is all involved in taking off the head to check springs,( i read a thread on here that by pressing on the springs and depressing them, they need to be replaced i believe?!) Also, maybe its just me but whenever i'm shifting, as i'm taking out the clutch and puttin the gas back in, it feels like i'm hitting a wall and its making big bam type noise. Am i shifting at too low of RPM? WHen i've check it seems more like 3000 -3500. I had my clutch replaced about 9 months ago.


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## ryOs13 (May 17, 2004)

Do you know where the clicking sound is comming from your engine? Since it seems as though youve replaced timing chain.tensioner and etc. it shouldnt be that. Main bearings shouldnt cause any of that clicking sound. Just take off the Cover to check for any loose particles in/around the valve train since you dont need to take off the head to do so. As far as checking springs, id say unless you have the proper tools for this, only thing you can check for are the tolerances.
As far as you feeling like hitting the wall, first thing i would check/replace is the motor and tranny mounts.. it just might be time to replace if they are worn out. Engine dampener might help as well but first stick with mounts first.
Good Luck


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## little240boy (Jan 13, 2004)

If I take off the valve cover, do I need to replace the gasket? I'm thinkin its a good idea anyways considering I use synthetic oil and the exhaust side likes to leak a bit and heat up on the heat shield and stink up my engine. Do you know if the newer gaskets are better resist to synthetic oil leakage or is synthetic really necessary and also if i've been using synthetic, can i go back to regular or would you suggest semi blend? When replacing the valve cover gasket, what is all involved in that? As for the engine/tranny mounts, do i need to pull the entire engine and tranny to replace these?


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## spec240sx (Aug 22, 2004)

little240boy said:


> If I take off the valve cover, do I need to replace the gasket? I'm thinkin its a good idea anyways considering I use synthetic oil and the exhaust side likes to leak a bit and heat up on the heat shield and stink up my engine. Do you know if the newer gaskets are better resist to synthetic oil leakage or is synthetic really necessary and also if i've been using synthetic, can i go back to regular or would you suggest semi blend? When replacing the valve cover gasket, what is all involved in that? As for the engine/tranny mounts, do i need to pull the entire engine and tranny to replace these?


Hold ON:
Give some info to the reasons you did things.
1) how many miles on the engine
2) is it a KA-E or DE
3) are you not the original owner
-
These need to be answered to give a worthy direction for you to go.
Using Synthetic Oil in an engine with over 150k and beat is VERY BAD. The potential to move sludge that was helping keep the parts in tolerance has just been removed. 
Putting a new chain and gears in a vehicle with bent valves and/or lower bearing bad is like asking a runner to go faster with a bad knee  
Good parts with no tolerance put more pressure on the worn parts. 
Just a little ifo


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## little240boy (Jan 13, 2004)

so it shouldn't be a problem to switch over from synthetic oil to regular oil? Also I have KA24E with 180,000 km's (not sure on miles, maybe like 130k?) Also, how can i check for bent valves or lower bearings?


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## sunnydet90 (Sep 10, 2004)

little240boy said:


> so it shouldn't be a problem to switch over from synthetic oil to regular oil? Also I have KA24E with 180,000 km's (not sure on miles, maybe like 130k?) Also, how can i check for bent valves or lower bearings?


 bent valves you can do a compression test dont know bout the bearing


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## rogoman (Dec 16, 2004)

little240boy said:


> the rattle is not as loud but still there. I'm thinking its my lifters but as i was reading the forum, it sounded more like the main bearing. I really have no idea what this is or how it effects knocking. The set seems cheap enough but how much work goes into changing this? Where would i go to check my oil PSI or can i do it myself? WHat is all involved in taking off the head to check springs,( i read a thread on here that by pressing on the springs and depressing them, they need to be replaced i believe?!)


Is the knocking sound just a timing chain rattle or is it a loud deep metallic sound?
If it's a loud deep metalic sound, then that points to rod and/or main bearings.

You could have low oil pressure which could be caused by several factors. 
Worn rod/main bearings. Plugged up oil filter. Dirty oil pickup. Most of the 
time it's the oil pump which may be worn and not producing the proper oil 
pressure/volume.

You can check the pressure very easily by installing a temporary mechanical 
oil pressure gauge. You would remove the oil sensor which is located next to 
the oil filter and install the mechanical oil pressure gauge in it's place; 
you may need to get an 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter to hook up the gauge.

With the engine fully warmed up, the pressure should be as follows:
idle - at least 11 psi
3000 RPM - 60 to 70 psi

If the oil pump needs to be replaced, it's easy to do so on an 89 or 90 as it 
bolts on externally.

What makes you think that valves are bent? Do a compression test on all cylinders.
The readings should be as follows:
standard 192 psi
minimum 142 psi
difference limit between cylinders 14 psi

A bent valve(s) will give very low compression readings and make the idle extremely rough.


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