# engine and mechanical problems, help needed



## hot_rod_kid (May 10, 2004)

ok guys, i know theres alot of good knowledge out there in all your heads, and im gonna pick some of it from ya - sorry for the length - thanks for your help 

i recently bought a 1989 240sx ka24e hatchback, 102k miles, in the lasy year its gotten a head gasket, resurfaced head, rack&pinion, clutch set, radiator, fan clutch, fuel pump -- paid 600+250 for a replacement front bumper+ headlites 

the problems 

*Prob 1)* the streering is VERY stiff, to the point that its quite hard to drive around the block. When parked / engine running and you crank the wheel there is NO power assist unlit youve managed to turn the steering wheel about 5 degrees. that "dead start" happens no matter which direction the front wheels are turned and no matter which way u turn the steering wheel. also, i removed a potion of the fluid in the rez to see how much flow there was @ idle. when the level is down to the top of the return tube, the "wave" of returning fluid is only 3/8" high, and when the Rez is full, you can BARELY see that the fluid is even moving around in there 

possible cause ? air in the lines ? pump going bad ? is there a way to test PS system pressure ? 

*Prob 2)* It only has like 70 hp ! the power seams to drop off past 2500 rpm, and a 4000k clutch drop just barely squeals the tires. when i dive it hard, it actualy feels equaly fast if i shift at 2500 or 4000 rpm . at the same time, its running quite rich at idle, and doing free reves to 4000 it starts to blow a cloud of fuel out of the exhaust . (no trace of a burning oil smell) doing free revs it also seams to bog at 2500 rpm ... on the tach it looks like the needle drags for a moment. it doesnt stop, it just slows down for a split second. it also pops once or twice out the exhaust when the throttle slams shut 

Checked: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, cleaned the throttle body, clean filter, sealed a leak in the rubber intake boot that goes to the throttle body 

possible cause ? timing ? worn injectors+new fuel pump=leak? ecu ? oxygen sensor ? if i replace the O2 sensor, can i use a multimeter to figure out the mixture ? 

*prob 3)* the speedometer starts at 0, but a 5mph roll sends it up to 15mph, and when i stop the car again, it falls to 7mph, and if i tap on it, it will then fall back to 0. no idea how accurate it is at 45mph, due to the steering / power issues i hardly have time to watch the speedo 

The car is off the road, when my boss owned it i drove it once ... before the new fuel pump.... it had power and the steering felt only somewhat stiff, that was december. 
then this past monday is when i brought it home and realized these problems, tried to figure out the fuel / hp prob and took it for a heavy footed late night romp around the block and it hadnt gotten any better. 

the car is supposed to get its maiden this weekend, sunday is the ubrf.org backroads cruise, but if this isnt sorted out by sat morning there is no way i can swap registration in time. would have to take my 92 labaron convertable out for its THIRD drifting session  

Thanks in advance guys !

both cars sitting at work:








and the lebaron after some hard drifting on the last cruise:


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## mille-16i (Jun 16, 2004)

Could you have asked anymopre questions in one post  
1) As for steering there are a number of things that it could be, check tire pressure sounds dumb but if the pressure is to low it will be real hard to steer. Check for bad/kinked hoses probaly small pressure hose. Could need a bleed check your service manual for best way to bleed. Check belt for tightnes and ablity to grip ie not glazed so it slipps. if you do all these to no avail try a wrecking yard pump if you can get it cheap (incase there is a problem in the new rack).
2) Power issues do a regular tune, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, O2, coolant temp sensor the one for the computer not the dash, air filter and fuel filter long list but those may fix your problem if not get the codes ran on your ecu.and run a compression check for good messure
3) the speedo on the 240 is a electric motorized/mechanical read out so the motor sound bad old and wore out again go to your favorite cheap wrecking yard and get one out of a car with less miles(free milage baby)


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## hot_rod_kid (May 10, 2004)

of COURSE i could have asked more in one post ... but i tried to just ask about the important stuff, and since i know that all off us are soo willing to read a 5 page artical in a mag about installing a 3hp part, i figured u guys could handle my big post :thumbup: 

but anyways ... #1) tire pressure, lines and the belt all check out. ill bleed it tomorrow, but i think ill change the fluid too, seeing as how its a milky tan color which doesnt seam right, after that ill do the pump ... 

carparts.com - POWER STEERING Pump Seal Kit - $12 :thumbup: 

#2) cap rotor plugs and wires are all new ... ill do the o2 ($20 and should be done anyways ) and the coolant temp , but the k&n filter is clean and the fuel filter is also new, and i know there is very little junk in the gas tank cause it was actualy me that did the fuel pump, and i intentionaly looked in to check! ill have the codes run and the compression check is coming too (cause this is prolly gonna be turbo later -10psi max) 

#3) at least this one is an easy fix, lol , that can wait till later


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## mille-16i (Jun 16, 2004)

Also while on under the hood double check the timing and the timing chain to check the chain remove the valve cover don't worry it is a neopreane/ruber gasket so if you are nice to it it will reseal once off check for excessive play in the chain you can even move the crank by hand and watch the cam gear if you have more then say 8-10 degrees of play you need a new chain.
And most definently change the fluid you might have moisture in it. good luck


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## hot_rod_kid (May 10, 2004)

the timing chain is something else thats new, and theres nooo slack in it at all - it was done w/ the head work. and the valve cover does reseal perfectly too - oppened it up because 2 of the rockers arms are makin noise, their lash adjusters chit the bed and i have to replace them ... weee ... o2 sensor tomorow, coolant sensor tomorrow, and ill order the ps rebuild kit


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## hot_rod_kid (May 10, 2004)

found a thread on here about a guy w/ a nissan truck w/ the ka24e engine ... same exact fuel problem, said when he disconnected the coolant tem sensor, it stopped overfueling ...

And thats when it finaly clicked that THAT was the sensor connector that my boss had probs with... you could fiddle w/ it and change the way the car ran ...so he took it in and had it "fixed" - but it looks like it was just messed w/ a lil

ill have to check during the day if its the sensor itself or the wiring, but now at least i know where to look

next stop, a PS pump rebuild, the pump itself only puts out like 25psi ! 

thanks for the help man


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## mille-16i (Jun 16, 2004)

Not a problem I recomend just replacing the sensor and making sure the wiring is good the sensor should not cost to much good luck with it all


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