# "94 Altima is DEAD



## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Here is my problem. My '94 died while driving X-Mas Eve and hasn't started since. I turn the key and sometimes get nothing at all...no clicking...nothing. Other times it sounds like she wants to turnover. I have used a test light on the inlet side of the Ignition Coil and she lit but when I disconnected the wire leading the the Distributor...nothing. I took the coil off and tested it at Schuck's and it wasn't within specs but they said it had to be tested while on the engine. I thought it may had been a clogged Fuel Filter but all I did was spend $16 to replace it because that wasn't it. It should also be noted that I have had to jiggle the Transmission Shifter to start her at times since I bought the car in '95. I have tried to start it in Neutral but to no avail. Autozone said to remove the Coil, Module, and Crankshaft Position Sensor and they would diagnose them for me. Are they leading me in the right direction or wasting my time? I have no clue where the Module and CPS are in the car either and neither do they. Any ideas on this dilemma?


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## Ruben (Oct 15, 2002)

bottomgun said:


> It should also be noted that I have had to jiggle the Transmission Shifter to start her at times since I bought the car in '95. I have tried to start it in Neutral but to no avail.


Try the easy things first... take apart the center console around the shifter. There is a switch that tells the ECU that the car is in nuetral or park. That can go out leaving you with a car that won't start.


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## paparay (Dec 5, 2003)

You have to have spark, gas and compression (at the right time of course) to start.

You said sometimes it won't even click ? Start by taking off both ends of both battery cables and cleaning them and where they connect. While your doing that have your battery checked and charged. 

Check under plate inside distributor (remove it) and make sure the sensor is clean and dry. Altimas have bad seals on distributor which allows oil to foul the sensor.

If your car has over 30 thousand miles and has never had the distributor cap and rotor replaced, replace them. 

You said it had spark at coil, didn't quite understand what you said. Pull a plug wire and hold it next to engine and see if you get a spark while cranking.

Make sure gas is getting to the fuel line to the injectors. After you turn the key on if you listen carefully you should hear the fuel pump for a few seconds as it pressurizes the system.

If not, there are a couple of sensors that are involved with initial fuel flow and a fuse in the fuel pump circuit. Check the fuse and reseat the relay (locations are in owners manual) If ok, you need to pull the code off of the computer (if there is one) to see what the computer thinks is happening.

Autozone will tell you how to pull code and what it means.

Fuel, spark, compression.
But in a newer car there are so many sensors involved to muddy the waters.

Also if you do get it started measure across battery and see if alternator is charging the battery. Should be over 13.5 volts, turn on the lights and such and see if it is charging.


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## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Battery has been cleaned and is fully charged. 

Pulled the Distributor Cap and she was fine (replaced about 10K miles ago) but never pulled anything else on it (sensor?).

OK...had a test light get lit on connector to the coil. Pulled wire from the Coil to the Distributor and got nothing. Even placed the wire from it almost inside the connection and no spark. Never tried the Spark Plug Wire itself.

All gas components are fine. 

Will check computer under seat for codes / lights are shoveling snow from her.


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## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Computer is under my passenger seat my [email protected]@!! It is under the center console by the gas pedal. Anyway....it gave me a code 21: Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running (see a dealer service department)....according to my Haynes book.


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## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Bought an OHM Meter and tested the coil while on the engine and nothing was in-spec. Primary resistance is 6 vice 1-2 OHMS and secondary is 100k vice 10-12.8k OHMS.


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## paparay (Dec 5, 2003)

*Prior to testing the coil, perform a secondary spark test. If spark occurs at the spark plug, the coil is functioning properly. * 

Turn the ignition OFF.  

_Disconnect the negative battery cable. _  Perform a visual inspection of the coil. If the coil is cracked, damaged or oil is leaking from the coil, the coil is faulty. 

Label and disconnect the electrical harness from the ignition coil. 

Inspect the harness connector and ignition coil terminals for dirt, corrosion or damage. Repair as necessary. 

Using an ohmmeter, measure coil primary resistance between the ignition coil terminals. Resistance should be approximately 1 ohm @ 68 degreesF (10 degreesC). 

Measure coil secondary resistance between the ignition coil terminals and the distributor cap high tension lead terminals. Resistance should be approximately 10 kilohms @ 68 degreesF (10 degreesC) on Altima and 10 kilohms @ 68 degreesF (10 degreesC) on 130SX. 

If resistance is not within specification, the coil may be faulty. 

Let us Know how this goes.

The sensor is inside the distributor, I will see if I can find a picture or diagram.


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## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Like my last post said...I tested the coil and nothing was in spec. A-B was at 6 vice 1-2 OHMS and B-Wire Terminal was 100k vice 10-12.8k OHMS. A-to Coil Case did not register vice going to infinity.


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## bottomgun (Jan 3, 2004)

Well it has been awhile but here is my latest update...been out to sea so this ongoing. I replaced my Ignition Coil after Autozone and I determined that it was bad. Replaced the battery because she died as well. Removed the rotor and cap then removed the 2 screws that holds the distributor in place. Gently removed the distributor and about 2 teaspoons of oil flowed out. Cleaned it all up...nice and dry inside now. Went to start and now she starts but the car snarts and farts like it is missing / poor gas flow / crappy gas. It has 1/2 tank of 2 month old gas...could this be the problem now?? And it has a new fuel filter too. My brain hurts from all of this!!


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## blackaltima (Feb 20, 2004)

well, your gas could turn into bad but try to drain it out and get new gas in it to see if it gets any better..


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

bottomgun said:


> Well it has been awhile but here is my latest update...been out to sea so this ongoing. I replaced my Ignition Coil after Autozone and I determined that it was bad. Replaced the battery because she died as well. Removed the rotor and cap then removed the 2 screws that holds the distributor in place. Gently removed the distributor and about 2 teaspoons of oil flowed out. Cleaned it all up...nice and dry inside now. Went to start and now she starts but the car snarts and farts like it is missing / poor gas flow / crappy gas. It has 1/2 tank of 2 month old gas...could this be the problem now?? And it has a new fuel filter too. My brain hurts from all of this!!


Well I had not joined since you last posted but I'll try to put in my bits of knowledge to figure this out...
First was there any oil inside the distributor cap? I thought you said that you replaced it a couple of months ago but I am just verifying this. If not then try spraying electrical parts cleaner inside the distributor to clean the oil residue from inside.
Second pull all four of your spark plugs, ground the coil wire, pull the fuel pump fuse and then turn the engine over for about 15-20 seconds. This clears out the cylinders. 
While the plugs are out are any discolored, fouled, or worn? Now would be a good time to replace them if you haven't already. 
Also one by one you should check the resistance on your spark plug and coil wires. More than 5K ohms per foot and they are bad.
Check the Power Transistor as well. This can be done with the meter.
The gas won't go bad in two months so I would rule this out unless you don't have a fuel cap.
Try these things and then please let me know what you find.

Troy


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