# blend door actuator nissan rogue 2009



## drencre (7 mo ago)

Good day

Could someone help me to find the location of the blend door actuator on my nissan rogue 2009

Did not find anything on this yet 

Regards


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)




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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Wow thanks, 

The actuator is witch one , 1 or 3 ?? Im new at this 



VStar650CL said:


> View attachment 8885


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You're most welcome. "Blend" and "Mix" mean the same thing. It's number 1.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. "Blend" and "Mix" mean the same thing. It's number 1.


Big thanks, im french so sometime i dont get it fast lol

Will try to find this piece, hard to find here in canada it seems only oem grrrr,


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

VStar650CL said:


> You're most welcome. "Blend" and "Mix" mean the same thing. It's number 1.


do you have a link or info on how to remove glove box ?


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The FSM isn't terribly helpful about that, but here's the exploded view. It's all phillips screws, but as I recall the gen1 Rogues had a cable-type damper that you need to disconnect before the door will come off. I think they also have a couple screws hidden way up in the back. The dash side finisher 15 also has to be pried loose before the glove box can come out.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

VStar650CL said:


> The FSM isn't terribly helpful about that, but here's the exploded view. It's all phillips screws, but as I recall the gen1 Rogues had a cable-type damper that you need to disconnect before the door will come off. I think they also have a couple screws hidden way up in the back. The dash side finisher 15 also has to be pried loose before the glove box can come out.
> View attachment 8886


Big thanks !!!


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Thanks for all your help, i did change the actuator , your help was really appreciated , but seems i have to look elsewere, my heat is not back , seems it is not that piece, 

Coolant is ok , thermostat is ok , actuator is ok , i wonder what to check now lol



VStar650CL said:


> The FSM isn't terribly helpful about that, but here's the exploded view. It's all phillips screws, but as I recall the gen1 Rogues had a cable-type damper that you need to disconnect before the door will come off. I think they also have a couple screws hidden way up in the back. The dash side finisher 15 also has to be pried loose before the glove box can come out.
> View attachment 8886


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

First off, when you changed the actuator, did you...
1) rotate the dial while the actuator was dismounted but plugged-in, to make sure it's turning? If there's a wiring issue depriving the actuator of power, ground, or signal, then changing the actuator won't fix it.
2) check the mating splines on the mix door to make sure they aren't stripped? If they are, the motor can turn but not move the door.
3) manually move the door to make sure it isn't jammed?
If none of those are the problem, give the heater hoses a "feel test" with the system on max heat and the blower on high. You should feel a marked temperature difference between the two hoses, the outlet side should be much cooler than the inlet. If it isn't, then there's a flow restriction, possibly a plugged heater core. If the whole system is working half-a$$ed, also check your drain hose to make sure it isn't plugged and filling the HVAC with water. Depending how the HVAC is constructed, that can cut off much of the flow through the core, evap, or both.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Heu , how do i do this 3) manually move the door to make sure it isn't jammed?





VStar650CL said:


> First off, when you changed the actuator, did you...
> 1) rotate the dial while the actuator was dismounted but plugged-in, to make sure it's turning? If there's a wiring issue depriving the actuator of power, ground, or signal, then changing the actuator won't fix it.
> 2) check the mating splines on the mix door to make sure they aren't stripped? If they are, the motor can turn but not move the door.
> 3) manually move the door to make sure it isn't jammed?
> If none of those are the problem, give the heater hoses a "feel test" with the system on max heat and the blower on high. You should feel a marked temperature difference between the two hoses, the outlet side should be much cooler than the inlet. If it isn't, then there's a flow restriction, possibly a plugged heater core. If the whole system is working half-a$$ed, also check your drain hose to make sure it isn't plugged and filling the HVAC with water. Depending how the HVAC is constructed, that can cut off much of the flow through the core, evap, or both.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Put a slot-head screwdriver the right size into the splines the actuator uses to move the door, and turn it by hand. It should move fairly easily and you should get a hot-cold shift as you move it. If it won't move then the door inside the HVAC is jammed, if it moves but there's no temperature change then the mechanism is stripped or broken.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

After doing this i still have same problem , no intense heat, will have to check other things lol, thank you so much for your help , probably the water thermostat , the upper big hose on radiator really hot but lower one not really


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The lower hose should be a lot cooler than the upper, typically around 40F in a healthy system with the car fully warm. The lower shouldn't be cold or lukewarm, that means something is stopped up. Lack of cabin heat is more likely from a dry or obstructed heater core than anything else. The heater core is almost always the highest point in the cooling system, so it doesn't take very much coolant loss to make your heater inefficient. Do a feel test on the heater hoses going through the firewall. Since the core is basically a mini radiator, with the blower running you should feel the same sort of temperature differential you feel between the upper and lower radiator hoses. The inlet hose should be too hot to touch for long, the outlet should be hot but touchable. If both sides are lukewarm then there's no flow and it probably means low coolant or trapped air in the core. If the inlet is hot but the outlet is lukewarm then your core is plugged. If both sides are hot then there's an obstruction inside your HVAC unit stopping the airflow.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

After checking temp of all hose, 

upper raditor hose is 202 the lower 162, the 2 hose to cabin are at 175 and 140 ....



VStar650CL said:


> The lower hose should be a lot cooler than the upper, typically around 40F in a healthy system with the car fully warm. The lower shouldn't be cold or lukewarm, that means something is stopped up. Lack of cabin heat is more likely from a dry or obstructed heater core than anything else. The heater core is almost always the highest point in the cooling system, so it doesn't take very much coolant loss to make your heater inefficient. Do a feel test on the heater hoses going through the firewall. Since the core is basically a mini radiator, with the blower running you should feel the same sort of temperature differential you feel between the upper and lower radiator hoses. The inlet hose should be too hot to touch for long, the outlet should be hot but touchable. If both sides are lukewarm then there's no flow and it probably means low coolant or trapped air in the core. If the inlet is hot but the outlet is lukewarm then your core is plugged. If both sides are hot then there's an obstruction inside your HVAC unit stopping the airflow.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

That's a good temperature drop through the heater core, but the 175 at the inlet indicates the flow is slow or obstructed. The inlet temp should be only a little lower than the top radiator hose if it's getting full flow. Check the temp at the other end of the inlet hose and see if it's higher or the same. If it's nearly the same then there's a problem with flow out of the engine which might indicate a weak water pump, if it's much warmer then it's time to give the heater core a garden hose test and see if it's clogging up.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Garden hose test ?? meaning lol 



VStar650CL said:


> That's a good temperature drop through the heater core, but the 175 at the inlet indicates the flow is slow or obstructed. The inlet temp should be only a little lower than the top radiator hose if it's getting full flow. Check the temp at the other end of the inlet hose and see if it's higher or the same. If it's nearly the same then there's a problem with flow out of the engine which might indicate a weak water pump, if it's much warmer then it's time to give the heater core a garden hose test and see if it's clogging up.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

You take both heater hoses loose and run a garden hose through the core into a bucket with a stopwatch. An unobstructed core should move almost the same amount of water in 10 seconds as the hose itself. If it moves a lot less, the core is stopped-up.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

I just notice that when i play with the vent position when i go to windshield i have no heat at all, just cold , but not like AC , does it help ?



VStar650CL said:


> You take both heater hoses loose and run a garden hose through the core into a bucket with a stopwatch. An unobstructed core should move almost the same amount of water in 10 seconds as the hose itself. If it moves a lot less, the core is stopped-up.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

The mix and mode doors shouldn't really affect one another, so no, I'd say that just confuses the issue. Defrost does automatically kick on the A/C at low power, so that might explain a bit less heat when using defrost.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Found video how to do, but, you have diagram witch one is the outlet hose ?




VStar650CL said:


> You take both heater hoses loose and run a garden hose through the core into a bucket with a stopwatch. An unobstructed core should move almost the same amount of water in 10 seconds as the hose itself. If it moves a lot less, the core is stopped-up.


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

drencre said:


> Found video how to do, but, you have diagram witch one is the outlet hose ?


No, but the inlet is the one which read the higher temperature, the outlet is the one that read lower.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Good day , update on this , i did the flush now it help a lot but i have full heat only when driving , when on iddle i have almost no heat !!! any clue ??

When on park if i get to 2000rpm heat start and is ok


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

If you get full heat at any time then the core itself isn't airbound, but you must have trapped air elsewhere in the cooling system causing the flow to fall off at low RPM. Bleed it out with a bleed bucket (jack the front of the car if the air is stubborn).


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

Good day

I have bought the bucket and did it, but still same issue , could it be the water pump ??


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

drencre said:


> I have bought the bucket and did it, but still same issue , could it be the water pump ??


If it isn't air in the system then it has to be a flow problem, so yes, it could be the pump or it could be an obstruction.


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## drencre (7 mo ago)

VStar650CL said:


> If it isn't air in the system then it has to be a flow problem, so yes, it could be the pump or it could be an obstruction.


Obstruction ??


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## VStar650CL (Nov 12, 2020)

Sure. Pinched hose, collapsed hose, corrosion buildup. One time I found a bottle cap lodged at a bend in a radiator hose. Collapsed hoses are the most insidious, because they can look perfectly okay on the outside. You have to find them by feeling for soft spots. Automotive water pumps generate a lot of flow but very little head pressure, and the heater core is usually the highest point in the system. So it doesn't take much of a clog to cause a problem at idle engine speeds.


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