# CA20 R31 IDLE



## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Hi All

I have a Pintara 1990 with a CA20 twin plug engine 
I have a prob with idle it is hunting a gr8 deal from idle(850rpm) to almost stall.. 
If the throttle switch is tweaked up so it is open constantly at idle it runs much better.
Has anyone had this problem and what should I look at to rectify this.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

The mass air flow meter could be bad. Try starting it then unplug the air flow meter at the sensor itself by the air box. If the idle stabilizes then the air flow meter is bad if the engine dies then it is working properly. 
Also, the Throttle Position Sensor may be misadjusted, it should measure between .4 and .7v at idle and then go to about 4v when the throttle is fully open. The TPS should only be measured when the engine is at operating temp.

Troy


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Thanks

The throttle sensor is the swittch type and is on at idle and off just as the throttle opens and the second stage switches on at full throttle.
If I adjust it so it is off at idle the engine runs better.
I'll try the airflow unpluged and keep you all posted.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

I forgot about that style of TPS on the early models... 
That may be a sign the TPS has a problem though.

Troy


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Hi 

I did the airflow trick and the engine died so I think it is ok.
I'll have to keep trying I might take it to my local shop for diagnostics.

I will keep you posted

Springer


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Hi All

The word from the shop is IVCV(idle vac controle valve) faulty.
The bad news is it cost $975AU from nissan.
The good news is it cost $45 to $66 motor wreckers.
I will get one tomorrow and fit it, I will keep you posted.


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Hi

NO GOOD I wont take the car back to that shop ever, just imagine if I got the $900 part.
The car is now in the hands of nissan and I hope they can fix it.

Also found that the TPS has 2 sets of 3 wires 1 out the front plug for on off switches and a second set out the top(hidden by a bypass pipe) that goes to a plug apx 60mm away?? I have been told it differs between auto and manual for the 3 and 6 wire TPS??

p.s when I was checking things yesterday I pinched the fuel hose and noticed a drop in pressure as the idle dropped and then it picked up when the idle went good???


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

Now that is the TPS I was originally thinking of...
The three pins on the sensor are not used for engine control but the pins are numbered from bottom to the top. The no. 1 and no. 2 are the closed throttle position switch and no. 3 is the wide open throttle position switch. The other three pin connector on the short harness is the actual throttle position sensor. The pins are numbered from top to bottom with the lock clip on the left side. The no. 4 pin is the 5 volt input with no. 6 the ground and no. 5 is the variable output. Measure the output with a voltmeter, the positive lead in the no. 5 terminal and the negative in the no. 6. This should be between 0.3v and 0.7v, if not it can be adjusted by loosening the two screws on the TPS to get the closed measurement in that range. I always set it at 0.5v. I hope this explains what you are looking at better. The automatics do only have the three pin switch and is adjusted to be closed usually below 900 +/- 150 rpm.

Troy


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Thanks Troy that explains alot.
The car is still at nissan and as soon as they find the problem I'll let you know.


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Hi All

I just got the call from my local nissan dealer to tell me that the problem may be my computer or airflow meter or idal vac valve or TPS or something else and they want to replace the computer($450AU), If that dont fix it then replace airflow meter ($700AU) if that dont fix it then replace idal vac valve($950) if that dont fix it replace TPS($280AU) then wait and see what else it could be??? In other words pick a component and start replacing things untill it is fixed! They want to spend $2580AU in the HOPE! that it will fix the problem. Geeesss the car cost me $1800AU.
I will never take any car to a dealer(NISSAN) for repair as they charge $60+ an hour to guess! when I can go to a smaller shop for the same or better service and save $30+ an hour.
I'll have to sell the car as is and buy a nother car as I can't justify spending more on the car than it cost me, and if I sell it for $1000 and put the 2580 in I can get another car for $3580 
:balls: :balls: :balls: TO NISSAN

Thanks again to all that have helped i'll let you know what I get.


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

I say get the car back from them and tell "thanks but no thanks". I hate it when they don't diagnose anything just become parts replacers. You don't troubleshoot by picking a part and going from there. It is not the ECU, I can almost guarantee that.

Troy


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## yUkiO (Feb 20, 2005)

its the air flow meter, (if you have that). i have the same problem with my bnr32. either that or try the spark plug too. kinda trust me on this one. does it kinda sputter when u step on the gas? and runs rich? if it does then its the air flow meter and change the spark plugs too.


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## springer1340hd (Feb 18, 2005)

Good news All

Got a new car a 97 Hyundai excel 4 door we were lucky to get some money from my dad and took the plunge and got it.

I didn't tell you that on the way home from NISSAN I stopped at the shops and then tried to start the car again and would only start if I pinched the fuel line and then ran ok? I got home and decided to wreck the car and we got a new car, but me being me was not happy until I at least found the prob so thinking it was a sticky injector removed them and found the plastic holder on #1 was cracked and not sealing so I got a set on a fuel rail for $105AU and fitted them, still no-go, started going over connectors and found the temp sender had a broken wire(thanks to Nissan) and found if open circuit it would open injectors and flood the engine, repaired this and I now have a car that works again. So the only problem was a leaky injector after going to a so called EFI specialist and costing $100 and NISSAN (told that $1600 may fix it) and them giving it back to me in worse condition and charging me $94 diagnostics.
I am now in the process of getting my money back from Nissan and the other workshop.
(Fear not I will go all the way to the top at Nissan to get my money back)

Again Thanks to all for your help :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## KA24Tech (Feb 2, 2004)

That sounds like a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.

Troy


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